XXX-S Forum v2.0

[nomac]

don't opt for zero degree rear toe...trust me on this. it makes the rear inconsistantly unstable. 1 degree should be the minimum.

[howielong]

Yes i got an xxx-s for xmas this year. So happy. But its slightly hard to wench on. Or it just might be me.

[microrcdude]

Nice man! Do you like it so far?

[howielong]

I love it so far. One thing that is odd is that it gets more dirtier then my semi on road/ off road car. Hopefully soon i could get a new body and then start to get some performance parts for it.

[etang858]

not sure if this is the right place for this so MODS delete my post if necessary

has anyone else been able to sell theirs? I have a high end package for sale, xxx-s g+ used a few times just in my backyard w/ high end electronics, and no one is buying.

please respond with any comments thru pm mainly. thanks

[tminus3]

Question about spring length:

What spring size should I be using on my car. I have both 1" and 1.15" and I have used them both. For example, 1" purples on the front and 1.15" silvers on the rear and the car has worked quite well, couple of B Main wins. But my question is, is there a specific reason to be using one size over the other?

TIA

[howielong]

Thought i'll just post these for the thrill of it. Its all stock but the P2k2 Pro motor for drifting. And the deans.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/My%20rc%20cars/xxx-s/DSC00955.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/My%20rc%20cars/xxx-s/DSC00956.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/My%20rc%20cars/xxx-s/DSC00957.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/My%20rc%20cars/xxx-s/DSC00958.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/My%20rc%20cars/xxx-s/DSC00959.jpg

[ronhbar]

Will the black belt break itself in and loosen up? I just installed the long belt kit, and I'm a bit underwhelmed. It is stiffer than my old yellow belt system.

Ron

[gene465]

Howie,
Nice paint job on the Losi! Looks great! Gene

[howielong]

Howie,
Nice paint job on the Losi! Looks great! Gene


Lol it actully came like that.


I got a question though. Are the hex screws and stuff metric or standard.

[streetracer]

I believe they are metric? Good question.

[streetracer]

I started off with an RTR XXX-S, that was bout a year and a half ago, now its threaded shocks away from a G+. If I had a digi, i would post a pic or 2.

[tminus3]

The hex and screws are standard. They are not metric. Losi is all AMERICAN! :)

[howielong]

The hex and screws are standard. They are not metric. Losi is all AMERICAN! :)

Sweet. Starting to hate the L wrenches. Don't want to strip one.

Also the other day the motor plugs and wire melted together. I don't know why. So i just soldered from the esc to the motor. No connectors in the middle. I like it. Plus it doesn't get hot at all.

[tminus3]

If you are gonna race, there is no other way but to direct-solder. Otherwise go with deans! Just remember...sloppy deans connectors are not that great either!

[streetracer]

Well, Hard wiring isnt all that grand of an idea. I have done it for a year or so, and have found no advantages between deans and hardwiring.

[tminus3]

First of all, I agree with you that there isn't such a big difference between hardwiring and deans. BUT, I find that maintaining a hardwired connection is SO much easier than maintaining a deans connector. I've even had a deans solder joint break off just before a race and had to scramble to fix the solder joint on the connector, not an easy task if you don't take your time.

I don't think there is a good or bad way ...I just find maintaining hardwired connections easier.

[howielong]

Yea i'm starting to like the hard wired set up and look. But I wouldn't do it for the batterys. I switch between a few in a day or so. Its just easier for me.


I just ordered a set of SSG shock towers today. Hope they come in soon.

[ronhbar]

I'm rebuilding my two XXX-S side by side for the first time. I noticed that the front A-arm rear pivot blocks on the two cars are different. One is taller and has the A-arm mount higher. Can someone please explain the change and which one is "better?"

Thanks,
Ron

[Ninja Viper]

What's this mod I am hearing about using TC3 hubs to widen the xxx-s? What's needed?

[gene465]

Not sure but I have been using Losi hubs on my TC3 for awhile I have had less breakage with them. Have not tried putting the TC3 hubs on my XXX-S I thought they were pretty much the same except for the top and bottom hole areas where they seem a bit beefier!

[Saboteur]

Anyone know a good gearing combo for a D5 11T flatliner? Just for shootin up and down the street. Maybe try to make it into a rally. For the most part, just onroad use as of right now.

[chadori rc'er]

Hi everyone.
Just bought myself a second hand xxx-s G+ off ebay and was woundering what parts are essential for 540 racing. The car comes with lots of parts so i might already have them.

Thanks

[thedominator]

Hi everyone.
Just bought myself a second hand xxx-s G+ off ebay and was woundering what parts are essential for 540 racing. The car comes with lots of parts so i might already have them.

Thanks

you shouldn't need anthing if it is complete. the only thing you might want at some point is the long belt kit if it doesn't have it already. it makes a small difference but if you are just starting out it doesn't really matter.

[howielong]

New shock towers. Haven't tested them out yet. Stupid snow but they look cool. Few holes were a little big but i had some extra lock nuts so its all good.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/DSC01071.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/DSC01070.jpg

[cabbynate]

Question. I race off-road and am thinking about getting a sedan. I know the car won't make or break my ability to win the races I will be racing. Do you think I should get the XXX-SG+ or weight for the new car? I have a XXX-4 and find it really easy to work on and am leaning towards the XXX-S. any opinions?

[tminus3]

Question. I race off-road and am thinking about getting a sedan. I know the car won't make or break my ability to win the races I will be racing. Do you think I should get the XXX-SG+ or weight for the new car? I have a XXX-4 and find it really easy to work on and am leaning towards the XXX-S. any opinions?

Just for familiarity sake I would say get the XXX-SG+, but really you should just wait for the JRX-S. You are not a TOTAL newbie. If you were, I would say go with the XXX-SG+.

[cabbynate]

Just for familiarity sake I would say get the XXX-SG+, but really you should just wait for the JRX-S. You are not a TOTAL newbie. If you were, I would say go with the XXX-SG+.
Thanks for the input. ;)

[minijosh]

hey guys, I just bought a xxx-s g+ and I'm hanging up my Tamiya TA04-SS. I know there is a huge difference in they way they drive and I'm excited to test out the water. The only bad part about the car is that I don't have a manual. Does anyone have a spare or a down loaded copy I can get? I race stock motors in a indoor tight track. What would be a good spur/pinion combo?

[microrcdude]

team losi has the menu on their site.

[streetracer]

I need to get the old xxx-s out and get her ready for racing season. Has everything but an esc. Need to email my sponsor and see about getting one out here.

[microrcdude]

I need to e-mail myself and ask why i havent baught a TC yet.

[minijosh]

I cannot find the black belt kit at stormer hobbies online. Does Losi sell it on their site or is there another place online that sells losi stuff? The wheel nuts for a street weapon will not fit a xxx-s but a xxx-4 will. I just tried it out. That was for some guy a few pages over.
I'm running a stock motor and was told to go to a 19 turn. I race indoors with a few tight turns and 1 long straight. Was told a 92 spur and a 22 pinion. Does pitch really matter? I have a 128 spur in the car and a 92 in the buggy. Should I get a 92 for the car also?

[tminus3]

Here it is...

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS3280

Well if you are running Mod, pitch could matters! You might want the strength of the 48p gears. Now if you are running Stock or 19T, you are still good with 64p. I would stick with a 128 spur for a 19T or stock car.

[minijosh]

Thanks for the link bro. I just put it in my shopping cart.

[minijosh]

Well I traded my 128 spur for a normal 48 pitch 86. Now I'm running a gear ratio and shell from one of the guys who races the exact same car. Now I hope my skills won't hold me back.

[minijosh]

Well my car ran great except for the fact that the stupid fan/heat sink kept coming off. Each race it came off. Time to remove it. And my motor was freaking hot too. Is that from being undergeared? My Tamiya never got this hot and it was a 19 turn motor. I was able to keep up with the cars in my class, the only bad part was that I didn't have any rear end grip. Can anyone help me out?

[tminus3]

many things you can do to get more rear end grip. But the one that works most effectively for me is to first make sure you are using the right tire for the rear. once you have that straightened out then here are a few things you can do to decrease front traction or vice versa increase rear traction. The softer you make one end, the more traction it will seem to gain, so if you soften the springs in the rear than in the front, your rear is going to gain traction. If you want to work it the other way, stiffen up the front to make the car push a bit and that will seem to give you more traction in the rear also. Add a sway bar to the front or put stiffer springs in the front. Or if you are running on carpet, don't put any traction compound on the front and just apply to the rear. these should definitely help.

[minijosh]

I do have the traction bar on the front and we run a controlled tire so no additives allowed. I'm running the yellow springs on the front with the purple on the rear. My rear shock towers are in the outside holes in the rear and second from the outside in the front. Any help???

[cabbynate]

I just got a xxxs and want some aluminum Clamping Hex Hubs. Witch ones/ brands are working well?

[TheRo0sTer]

Did Losi ever sell a Carbon Fiber shock tower for the XXX-S or does someone else make them?

[tminus3]

Check with SpeedtechRC. I believe they make the carbon fiber shock tower.

[Dan-o]

Dynamite makes a bunch of aluminum hop ups as well as CF shock towers and drive train cover.

[TheRo0sTer]

Yup I found that out today. Gotta love the CB look LOL.

[howielong]

I have the speedtech ssg CF shock towers.

[chadori rc'er]

Hello everyone.

I was just woundering if 34 pinion 120 spur sounds a bit overgeared for a normal 540 motor in my xxxs g+.

Any help would be appreciated.

[tminus3]

I guess a normal 540 motor is like a stock 27T motor? If so I would say you are in the ball park, maybe a tooth or so overgeared. I know I was running 36/128 outdoors. Indoors I was running 33/128. Now you are running 120 spur, so I don't know the math, but 34/128 seems to be closer to overgeared. btw, there are SO many factors affecting this discussion.

After your race, when you get back to the pits, touch the motor and see if it is HOT but you can keep your fingers on it indefinitely. If it is HOT and you just can't continue to touch it, its overgeared....if it is HOT but you CAN touch it for a long time...you are ok.

[howielong]

Does any company make aftermarket blue CVD's. Or could like the ones for a TC3 or TC4 fit the losi.

[guyregev16]

a pics of my xxx-s graphite
it's to big to put it in here
http://grm.m.walla.co.il/briefcase/00f3/g/b/l/a/t/2/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/r/200503191901158902/200504161822467108/P31900152.jpg

http://grm.m.walla.co.il/briefcase/00f3/g/b/l/a/t/2/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/r/200503191901158902/200503191902486718/P3190014.jpg

[bonk]

i got a problem , i bought a rtr sport xxxs like 2 years ago, never really used it much because its always made this beeping noise from the esc, and like if i pull the throttle a lil bit but not enough to make the car move it beeps, and even when the car is moving it still beeps, its the most annoying thing and i cant figure out why? any thoughts, the esc is a JR racing
r125 2 channel racing reciever, thanks

[gene465]

i got a problem , i bought a rtr sport xxxs like 2 years ago, never really used it much because its always made this beeping noise from the esc, and like if i pull the throttle a lil bit but not enough to make the car move it beeps, and even when the car is moving it still beeps, its the most annoying thing and i cant figure out why? any thoughts, the esc is a JR racing
r125 2 channel racing reciever, thanks

You sure it is a JR ESC, I thought they all came with the GM ESC which is not the greatest ESC out there. I have had alot of problems with my sons and it always seems to reverse my throttle when I put in new battery pack. It does not matter which car and electronics I put it with, so it is the ESC. Just get another inexpensive ESC to put in it. If you don't run anything under a 19T a ESC should not cost you too much.

[bonk]

ok thanks, yeah sorry, i looked at the wrong thing duh, its that GM V3r or osmething, thing stinks, ill have to look into a new one

[Salica]

Novak has refurbished ones for cheap!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Anyone know the part number for the xxx-s belt? i wanna convert my 414m2 to single belt... if possible, anyone now how mant teeth it has or can give the length of the belt in mm?

[Dan-o]

Sorry, I don't know the number, I do know that you should get the heavy duty belt rather than the stock...much tougher, I put the HD belt and kevlar gears in mine and it's much smoother now.

On the topic of the refurbished Novak brushless systems, HELL YEAH! a buck fifty got me the 5800 system and it's faster than ****! I get 30 min run times with 3300 packs, which blows me away because last time I drove anything (XXT CR) I was lucky to get 5 or 6 with a stock motor. I've already destroyed the tires I bought with the car, almost completely bald after 7 packs!

The one thing that bothers me is the front end jitter, I can feel it in the corners esp at high speed. I cleaned and rebuilt the CVDs, checked my bearings etc and it's still there...

[cabbynate]

Dan-o,
What dg front castor blocks are you using. If it's a stock XXXS or an rtr than you should try the 4dg front castor blocks.

[Dan-o]

just the stock that I'm aware of. I bought the car used so I'm not sure what, if anything has been replaced. I have givin thought to replacing the rear blocks, maybe I'll try the fronts as well. Do you happen to know whether Dynamite makes their alum ones in the 4 degree? the red aluminum is sexier than all get out!

[Dan-o]

one question, how tight or loose should I run my diffs? (I don't have a one way; I have put thought into buying one though.) If I tighten them down too much they feel grainy, too loose and the car feels like it has a slipper clutch.

[cabbynate]

I would go with the losi 4dg front caster blocks. they are graphite. I run my front diff a little tighter than my rear. you get more on power steering coming out of corners that way. Also look under the front hub caster blocks to see if it has writing on them. if not it is stock at 0dg. to smooth things out you will need the 4dg of caster.
And those diffs need a rebuild!!!!!

[Dan-o]

I'm still getting to know the ins and outs of tuning a 4WD. Thanks for the tips! rebuilding the diffs was the next thing on my list of stuff to do.

Any tips on springs? harder or softer in the front than the back?

[cabbynate]

On a smooth asphalt track most of us run stiffer fronts. I like purple front/blue rear/56 pistons front and rear with 60wt oil. seems to work good everywhere!!! also front ride height 4.5 mm and 5 mm in the rear.

[Dan-o]

Right now I'm set up with silver in the rear, purple up front, 40wt all around, stock pistons and a low ride height (haven't measured it). I have a set of blue springs I'll try out in the rear though...

sedan shocks seem harder to bleed than offroad shocks. just cause they're smaller? any tips on that?

Thanks much!

[cabbynate]

silvers in the rear will give you more traction there with less corner rotation. you can play with that and see what you like best. ride height is very important. losi's website has some good info on setup. http://www.teamlosi.com/Products/HintsAndTips.aspx?ProdID=LOSA0251 .
on-road shocks are a bit harder to bleed. you do them the same way you would do your xxt. practice makes perfect!!!

[Dan-o]

Thanks again.

[xxx-s racer 101]

WHEN I PUT THE BELT ON MY CAR AND I START TO DRIVE IT IT SLIDES ITS WAY OFF THE SPUR GEAR AND STARTS RUBBING ON THE BELT TENSIONER. IVE SET ALL DIFFERENT TENSIONS I BOUGHT A NEW BELT REPLACED ALL BEARINGS IN THE DRIVE TRAIN NEW PULLEYS AND EVERTHING IT STILL DOES IT AND WHEN I GO IN REVERSE THE BELTS SLIDE ITS WAY BACK ON LIKE ITS SUPPOSED TO . I REPLACED THE SPUR GEAR TOO. CAN ANYBODY HELP ME REALY APRECIATE IT THANK YOU :confused:

[microrcdude]

Are you sure your belts not too loose or too tight?

[xxx-s racer 101]

Are you sure your belts not too loose or too tight?
Yup ive tried everthing i dont kno what it could be an more suggestions?

[baileyk]

Yup ive tried everthing i dont kno what it could be an more suggestions?

Sounds like you have 1 of the diffs in backwards. If you look in the outdrives, the screw should be on the drivers side of the car (the left hand side when looking from the front to the back).

If one of the diffs has the screw on the opposite side, the belt will want to wander. 1 direction going forward and 1 direction going backwards.

Karen

[cabbynate]

Can any one tell me what the difference is from using the off set hubs and inner hole from the standard hubs and the out side hole? I race on smooth med bite asphalt. Thanks.

[minijosh]

I just broke my front left arm and the shock tower. All of my stuff is graphite and I got no spares for the shock tower. I'm running a stock motor and I hit the wall at a angle hard. Very hard. Now I'm sad. I moved up with my time into the A main and I wasn't able to compete.

[Eli the rc guy]

hey guy I just bought the car like 3 week ago! but i took a hard hit to a cemet wall on the front i think left had side. And I busted a pice!(cry) i need some help. Im not sher what to do. I wont to buy a new pice but im not sher what it is. I would post a pic of my car but i cant. So i need help on how to post a pic and what pice it is that i broke. i realy need ur help.

thxs

[minijosh]

Just say where you broke it? Is it a shock tower? Is it a lower arm? Is it the chassis?

[Eli the rc guy]

no well its near the weel. i went into the wall in a angle and i found the weel stuk the bottem stiking out and the top sticking in and the part bottem just snaped! It like holds the top and the bottome of the part that conects to the weel . I think i got that right >.< :confused: :( and i think some parts busted out too.

[Eli the rc guy]

i dont think u know waht im talking about do u?

[Eli the rc guy]

u can see the part on page 18 after the the bolt for the tire and ater that part thats it.If u look 2 parts in from the edge then u see what it is

[korn4brains]

does any one know where i can get an aluminum conversion kit for the xxx-s rtr?

[minijosh]

What kit? I've never heard of one unless you just mean the upgrade motor mount and stuff like that.

[korn4brains]

ther is a kit because my friend got one but forget where and what it was called

[Eli the rc guy]

I found the part that was broken its called the spindle carrier i think. But the probelm is im not sure what the price is. So if any1 u guys find anthing cheap spindle pice tell me.=)

[ReppRacing]

Hey, is anyone else having heat issues? Seriously?

I'm running the RTR version with a super rooster esc, trinity d-5 8x2 at +18* and a 16t pinion gear. Also running GP3300s and stock tires thus far.

Am I running the timing too far advanced? Aren't I undergeared for this car?
Maybe too many volts? (1.17)

Anyone have any ideas? This thing gets HOT! :confused:

[Eli the rc guy]

Nope Im haveing breaking problems. Ive hardy run this car and ive already broken 2 parts. 1 my folt and another time right after u fixed my carrier something else brakes!!!! Its gunna even cost me more now......>.<""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

[howielong]

Can some one tell me what a good spur and pinion set up will be with a 27T motor. I run the stock gearing so far and the motor gets pretty hot.

[elcid4300]

Can some one tell me what a good spur and pinion set up will be with a 27T motor. I run the stock gearing so far and the motor gets pretty hot.

According to the manual, you wanna run a 26/88 with a stock motor. Make sure your belt isn't too tight either.

[howielong]

According to the manual, you wanna run a 26/88 with a stock motor. Make sure your belt isn't too tight either.


Thank you.

-Steve.

[Eli the rc guy]

HEy guys I still havent fixed the car yet its been sitting in my room with front left arm brocken>.<! I was just wondering if any u guys can give me some tip on how to take of the rod end from the ball studs if u can. thxs.

[howielong]

Flat head screw driver works for me.

[ClodzillaIIIMan]

Here is my Losi XXXS hopped up to the max! Just did get this one Today in a recent trAde.

has all graphite black parts
has Anodized Blue Aluminum Parts,too!

Blue Aluminum front nuckle arms & Hubs
Blue Aluminum Rear Hub Carriers
Blue Aluminum Bell Crank Setup
Blue & Silver Aluminum Threaded Shocks
Blue Aluminum Hex Nuts (4)
Has a few other Anodized blue Aluminum parts as well.

Losi Chrome 16-Spoke Wheels
Losi Street Treaded Tires
Full Bearings
Full Graphite
Nicely Painted Stock XXXS Body
trinity 19T Mod Motor
Intellispeed Auto Sport ESC w/Brake
2 Ch Older Pistol Grip Nice Magnum Junior w/ATV & Throttle Hi&Lo Settings,etc!
GP Matched 3300 Mah NIMH Side by Side Batt Pack

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v502/maximumrcforum/DSC01906.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v502/maximumrcforum/DSC01907.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v502/maximumrcforum/DSC01910.jpg

LMK what you all think of it?

[Eli the rc guy]

thats 1 nice car. U should get a new shell for it. I m haveing some trouble with my stearing it gose to the rigth a bit. can u guys help me?

[badmojo13]

in that 3rd picture whats that nasty white plug doing in there, hook that up and melt that bad boy for sure with a 3300, get you some deans plugs
other wise thats a nice car

eli-either you put the servo saver on wrong, it has to be centered with your radio on and the car on, or you need to adjust your radio so that the car goes straight if you have that option

[minijosh]

Hey Eli, have you adjusted your servo saver to the center on the servo? Make sure you also adjust the radio first.

[geridr]

what pitch gears does losi use on the xxx-s??????

[elcid4300]

what pitch gears does losi use on the xxx-s??????


Stock is 48 pitch on the RTR....They might've used 64 pitch on the XXXS G+ kit.

[geridr]

Stock is 48 pitch on the RTR....They might've used 64 pitch on the XXXS G+ kit.

mine has the smaller close together teeth... is that 64?

[elcid4300]

mine has the smaller close together teeth... is that 64?


What color is the spur and how many teeth does it say it has?

[geridr]

What color is the spur and how many teeth does it say it has?

Well its yellow but i looked on both faces of the gear and it doesnt say how many teeth..I just got the car used and need to know what pitch to get it running .

I just got some more gears coming from ebay.. maybe you can tell by the photo

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6003324045&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

[elcid4300]

Well its yellow but i looked on both faces of the gear and it doesnt say how many teeth..I just got the car used and need to know what pitch to get it running .

I just got some more gears coming from ebay.. maybe you can tell by the photo

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6003324045&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

The only one that looks like a XXXS gear in the pic, is the one in the lower left hand corner (yellow). Here's a link to pics of the spur gears CLICK (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=xxx-s%20spur&OverallCatID=). I am figuring that if the car is stock, it's more than likely a 48 pitch spur (it's yellow).

[Eli the rc guy]

I got the rtr version of the xx-s so i didnt place the servo there. Ive tryed to adjust with the radio but i think something is loose. I usealy gose to the left a bit and might go even more to the side. Then it wil go in the other direction in full throttle0.0???????????????????? O yea i got the car fixed just today again........... ill try to find if anything is loose. THxs anyways minijosh.:) I was also wondering if the doge stratus ( I hope i spelled that right) fits on the car. I m not diging the stock shell that mutch. O yea 1 more thing if i stop my car after running it at full speed for a while it wont go again and i have to push it. i was wondering if this is because over heating or domething might be wrong with the cars motor or speed controle.

[Eli the rc guy]

Hey lisen guys (if ur still there) ive been thinking about a new motor and a shell for my xxx-s. Im lokking into a 15 turn motor or so. THe car seems like its slower than usual. Im not sure what motor to get. Im kinda confused >.< i m looking into a gem, but i dont knwo if i should. And about the shell. ^^""""""""""""" Im stuck on witch shell has the most handleing. ^^ sorry about all the questions and stuff, this is my first onroud so.

[minijosh]

Well you can drive any shell you'd like but there are certain ones to stay away from if you are a rookie or just plain bad shells for racing. I found the hummer is very hard to control unless you have a super powerful motor. The hpi lotus sucks period. Looks good sitting still but once the wheels turn, nothing but a piece of crap plastic with a nice paint job. Anything from the Dodge Stratus 1,2,3, etc( how many will they make of a real crap car) Mazda 6, Nemisis, and the Caddy CTS will do for racing. They are the most popular. Oh I forgot the Alfa shell, that's a good one too. I've raced the mazda, caddy, and the dodge. I have a nemisis just sitting waiting for my dodge to die and it's almost there. I like to race the odd shells that nobody else does. The caddy has never been seen here at my local races in England. Kind of a shocker hehe.
As for motors, the Team Orion Rush are blah. They are a mod motor with bushings instead of bearings. I had one in my TL01 and it was good for running around but make sure you motor has bearings on both ends. I really like my 19 turn Chamelion 2 Pro. Maybe you just need to adjust your pinion/spur gearing and not get a hotter motor. When you get a hotter motor, you'll have to adjust your gearing anyways unless you want to burn up your motor.

[Re-Mix]

Hey I'm looking to purchase a discounted xxx-s G+ @ stormer hobbies and was wondering how the car performs as a street basher ( no jumps, but not exactly pristine carpet) . Also what upgrades, if any do I need to run a 12/13 turn motor and what gearing would you start at for those. Thanks. Specifically i'm running a 4200.

Also, as for the battery tray, does it work for the new gp 3700 cells?

[Eli the rc guy]

But my xxx-s is stock. Well almost^^. i didnt mess with the gearing at all. :) but come to think if it it may be my batteries they are soooooooooooooooooooooo old. I need new 1s mabe. THen again they worked okay the last time i used it. Something im stilling pondering about is my stearing... I talkied to some guys about it at the shop and they said my stearing servo might have lost tome teath when i hit the curb and broke my front left arm on the car. So i might be getting a new servo.... spending too mutch money>.<. THxs again minijosh for the help man.

[OTB Dub]

Hey, quick question guys. I can pick up a XXX-S G+ at a pretty good deal. I'm looking to race, thing is there isn't a track near by. The good news is I'll be moving in about 2 months and I was wondering if I should pick up the XXX-S or just go with the JRX-S and race with that. Anyone who has used both I would like to hear what you thought of them each. Thanks guys!

[Eli the rc guy]

DO u guys know if the LamborGhini Gallardo is any good and if itll fit the xxx-s?

[smoky]

are u guys still competetive with yiour xxxs with all the new chassis out. just wonderin im still doing well regulary beating jrxs xrays tamiya and the rest alotta peopleeither see my chasssis or ask me what i run and seem taken back when i tell them its a xxxs g plus. but hey im stickin with it till i really see somethin i like and have the money.

[Dee]

Is the XXXS G+ still available new? Or the graphite chassis? I have one of the first XXXS cars, with some upgrades I've added (threaded shocks, black belt upgrade, etc.), and was thinking about buying another one, or changing the chassis on the one I have.

[smoky]

try stormerhobbies.com they have it pretty cheap too i think only $189.

[Eli the rc guy]

DO u guys know what kind of batteries are best for the xxx-s? Like what brand do u use? And is a batter has a low mAh power dose that effect the speed of the car? Thxs

[ricderf78]

3300s are going pretty cheap everywhere. mah does affect the speed but mostly effects run time.'

and also yes Im still very competive with my xxxs formally a rtr.

[ricderf78]

Does anyone know of red anodized thread shock bodies? Kinda tried of the blue TC3 ones

[Loheswaran]

I've just got myself a losi xxx-s, having just got back into rc-ing. The thing is that my local club runs on carpet indoors, with foams and without additives. I was wondering if anybody out there can advise me on set up for indoors including the necessary foam tyres. By the way, I have already checked out the Losi sight, and their indoor set ups all have tyre additives - invariably paragon, which I understand is banned in the UK by the BRCA.

So help me if you can

[motoholic]

I wanna try driftin my xxx-s. any suggestions

[Eli the rc guy]

So what ur saying is that is I have a low mah batterie i might not be getting all of the speed out of my xxx-s? O man lol I could be going so much faster then>.<. ITs been preaty wet here in Vancouver so I havent hard a chance to Run my car alot, and my local hobby stor dosnt have a indoor track. Some crazy stuff started to heppen to my car. It started to grow moss on the bottem of it. That mean I have to clean my car all over again. And if ricderf78 s imfo is accuarate that mean i need to buy a new batterie. Dam lots of work for me to do! I guess i should get busy. (sorry for all the questions) Bye

[JSSuper]

Hi everyone, I'm new here and wanted to make my introductions. I've been racing for some time now as well as other aspects of R/C cars. I'm glad to answer any questions that I might know, and I'm sure I'll have a few from time to time.

Anyhow, I noticed a few questions that I'd be glad to help answer:

Eli the rc guy, for competative racing I don't think the Lamborghini bodies are the best choices (Gallardo or Murcielago). Bodies have a definite affect on the handleing of the car. Granted that if the suspension isn't setup correctly for the surface and tires being used then the body really isn't going to do anything. Once the car gets dialed in, then the body becomes very noticable. The more popular racing bodies are ones like the Mazda 6, Stratus,2.0,3.0, Alfa Romeo 156, CLK DTM, CTS-V, Vauxhall Astra BTCC, Honda Accord, and finally the BMW-3's. These are typically the bodies I've seen on the track. I've used a few and they work well for their intended purpose.

As far as batteries go, depending on your racing class, Stock, 19T-spec, or Modefied, you will probably want different packs and then charge them differently. If your packs are old and you are not making full runtime, you will get a huge performance increase by upgrading. 3300's are plentiful and cheap, but they have been overshadowed by 3700,3800 and now 4200's are out. If you are trying to race stock 27T motors (P2K-2, Monster, ETC) then 3300's will be very adequate, yet 3800's will be much better. With a stock motor, run-time isn't as critical with these bigger packs so you can get more power or "punch" out of the pack by charging it at a higher amperage. Maybe 5.0 for the 33's and 5.5-6.0 amps for 37's&38's.

Um, I've never seen moss growing on any R/C car, so definitely clean that car inside and out thoroughly.

RocketMan2, fortunately for me I found a NOS (New old stock) XXX-S G+ sitting on the shelf at the LHS. I got a fairly good deal on it, not quite as good as Stormers price. Though Stormer says "On Order". Other sites say "Order Pending". Honestly I don't know if Losi is producing these cars anymore, they still show it in production though so if enough stores ask for it maybe they will crank a few more out. I think you can still purchase the G+ upgrade kit with everything from Horizon Hobby, but don't quote me on that one. Its been a long time since I looked for it.

Loheswaran, Are you racing on Ozite? Thats going to help a lot, since the majority of the setup sheets for "Carpet" are high traction Calandra ozite. You would then want to set the car up very stiff because you can get too much traction. Now if you are racing in a gym or something at a school etc, its not going to be Ozite. We are currently racing in a old gym with very poor carpet, so asphalt setups are working well with "sauced" foams. I'm actually running more of a Ozite setup meant for hand-out rubber tires, and its working well but again with sauce. If you can use traction compound (sauce), just not Paragon, then I'd suggest something else like Jack the Gripper. I and others are using that with good results.

[Loheswaran]

I'm not on Ozite - I am on a carpet used in the Uk made in leicester - I'll post what it is.

I am told that it is worth using green rears and blue fronts. One question I have is concerning the use of tyre additive - whether to be or not to be. In your experience are the shock settings harder, softer, or the same with tyre additive, and does the same apply to castor, camber and toe in?

I like fiddling about and being well prepared, hence the questions.

Lohan

[JSSuper]

Running with an additive will not directly change your settings. That is, it won't make the car stiffer like it has a tighter (higher rate) spring. It will add traction to the contact patch of the tire and thus might make you want to change spring rates and or other suspension setups in accordance with the additional traction. If you have your suspension setup dialed in pretty well, then its likely that you will be playing more with tire combinations with less or more additive etc. If you are pushing in the corners you may sauce the fronts heavier and or switch to a softer foam. If its a little loose, maybe change to a softer rear tire or add sauce in the rear.

A big help is using a setup sheet that looks like it will work for your track and situation. My current setup is a combination of Todd Hodge's and Paul Lemiuex's USTC Rubber Tire/Carpet Setups 1-15-03. Of course for my situation I didn't follow them to the letter, I used them more of a guideline and adjusted them as I like for my situation and driving style.

I would also pay close attention to the local hot-shoes. Get an idea for what is working at the track and adjust as necessary for your style. You don't have to follow exactly on anything. If they are doing well with blue and green, you may too. That doesn't mean that Orange and Pink won't work better for you. Our carpet is so poor that we are all using very soft tires. Double Pinks, Double pink orange are often found at our current venue.

And feel free to ask away, I'm more than happy to help if I can.

[Loheswaran]

I think I'll do one session with the stock settings - i.e the treaded rubber without additive, and the 30wt oil. I am sure this will be far from dialled in. I anticipate that it will still be beyond my abilities, but should also give an idea of what to do and tweak. I anticpate that the first thing would be the tyres, and next the shock oil weight - 30wt is, if I remember rightly an off road weight. The problem is that I've never driven a tourer!

I will definitely keep you updated.

Lohan

[JSSuper]

Yeah I utilize 30wt in my 10T more than in my sedan, though if you need to run a really soft spring then 30 would be suited to it. I felt that it was under dampened even in the rear with Silvers let alone Purple springs up front. Best of luck at the race.

[Loheswaran]

Hi JS

I had a nightmare friday the 13th - about mid day my car got towed away and I was hit for £190UKP to get it back. During my second practice run, two wheel nuts came off - (fortunately recovered), but so did one wheel pin that I did not recover.

Even in that very short couple of runs I could tell the following:

1. Too twitchy off centre (the stock settings were a bit toe out at the front plus negative camber
2. no camber at the back
3. too much body roll followed by the back just losing it very quickly - ie. no grip at all!

After the first quick blast, a club regular who competes in the A mains came and did a few tweaks by sorting out no camber up front, and 1 degree at the back.

I then got some blue front and green rears - that made a huge difference.

I just went to the shop and bought some 50wt and 60wt oil, as well as some schumacher springs - hope they fit - my shop had no losi in stock. the schumachers are a full set!

I just want to confirm, is it still heavy oil soft springs as the general rule?

Lohan :confused: :rolleyes:

[JSSuper]

Man I agree, I don't know what it was this weekend but I got it handed to me in Modefied class. Honestly though I never expected to finish as well as I did (as high as 3rd). My car was not dialed the way I would have liked and obviously I had tire issues as well. They will be corrected for the next week though as I purchased new tires. I've decided to go with Jaco as well and I snagged a tire lathe to cut them down. I've never raced that much power either(Team Checkpoint 7x1) so its definitely a big learning curve for me since I just came of 19T class.

I run purple front spring (20 Rate) and red rear spring (14 or 12 rate, can't remember) and 60wt/#56 front 40wt #56 rear. However, since I don't race at your track my setup may or may not help you out much. I'm glad it was coming together for you. I hope to have a top 2 finish next week.

[Loheswaran]

Hi JS

I mought a set of schumacehr springs yesterday - I think they are a bit too long for the front, so they only allow max entension in the front, but I've put some 60wt oil. the reason I went for the 60wt was that i have looked over a few sights/set ups, and they indicate between 50 and 80, with hard springs, so I followed suit, and kept it in the ball park figure. I got some 50wt for the back. I think I'll get some losi springs, and keep the schumachers for the rear.

During my search i found a really good table putting down a lot of manufacturers springs and rates in a single consolidated table - very helpful. I just cant seem to relocate the page, but I have saved it, so if you want I can e-mail it to you in word format, that's if you don't have it already.

As to you finishing third - I'd just like to finish in one piece!

Lohan

[Eli the rc guy]

To:JS

Thxs for the advice but If I get a new batterie Ill need a new charger too, because the instructions say that not to put it more then 1 amp. All my equiptment is atleast 7 years old becasue i had taken a break from rcing becasue of no money. Besides I am very young and sometimes I dont get somethings lol >.<! Im trying hard to ceep my xxx-s in good shape. o and by the way my xxx-s is toatly stock and Im still haveing problems on the straits. Ive always had problems going starit with both opf my cars. Ive had one big crash when i broke some stuff in the front and might have chiped some teath Im not soo sure. Any segestions? (the car didnt go strait out of the box anyways)!!!!!

[JSSuper]

To:JS

Thxs for the advice but If I get a new batterie Ill need a new charger too, because the instructions say that not to put it more then 1 amp. All my equiptment is atleast 7 years old becasue i had taken a break from rcing becasue of no money. Besides I am very young and sometimes I dont get somethings lol >.<! Im trying hard to ceep my xxx-s in good shape. o and by the way my xxx-s is toatly stock and Im still haveing problems on the straits. Ive always had problems going starit with both opf my cars. Ive had one big crash when i broke some stuff in the front and might have chiped some teath Im not soo sure. Any segestions? (the car didnt go strait out of the box anyways)!!!!!

Hmm, I'd be interested to know what kind of charger and batteries you are currently using. What brand and "mah" ex: 1700,2000, 2400 etc. are your batteries. Oh I understand about being young and poor, I started racing when I was 14 back in 1994. I go all the way back to the old 1400scr batteries and Trinity Green Machine stock motors. In fact I have a few of those batteries still laying around that I use to power my lathe. Anyhow, 1 amp is too low to get any real power out of the packs. Also I gather you are running a XXX-S RTR? That would explain some things such as your steering problem. I've had trouble with RTR steering servos not holding up myself over the years. Now when I get an RTR they are (Ready To Rebuild).

As far as not going strait. That would sound very much like a servo issue to me. However, it could be a worn servo saver causing that, but I doubt it. See if there is any free play in the servo saver, by trying to turn your wheels while you hold the servo saver horn strait up. If the wheels move either direction easy then you have a broken saver. Another thing is you may have excessive slop (free play) in the front suspension/steering components. Honestly I think you will find that during your crash you have damaged the gearset in the servo. Or it could have been faulty from the factory. I've had bad servos in RTR stuff many times. Being faulty from the factory, then your crash didn't help things. The factories use cheap standard servos like Futaba 3003, & Airtronics 94102. These don't hold up long in racing applications, not to mention they have lower torque and speed ratings.

My suggestion is, to keep working on earning money for the car and definitely don't quit R/C because its just too much fun (when you get the problems sorted out, it gets even funner, I promise). Take it slow and purchase one thing at a time. My thoughts are first fix your servo/steering issues. Then move on to addressing batteries and charger situation, then motors and tires, and tires and tires and tires..... Touring cars LOVE tires.

Some parts I'd recommend a begginner Stock class racer. (I assume you use 27T stock motors in your race class). For a servo, I use Hitec 625 in my XXX-S. Some racers don't care for Hitec, but honestly I have a lot of 645's and now this 625 and havn't had a problem yet. The 625MG is a metal geared high torque servo that is very fast. The 645MG is slower than the 625MG, but has more torque (better for off-road stuff). They retail on Towerhobbies for around $40. Your LHS should have them as well.

Next: I'd recommend some better batteries, the zapped 3800 stick pack would be my recommendation. I don't think I'd bother with Matched packs, because without the proper discharging equipment they really won't help you much more than regular packs for very long and you'll just shorten the life of the more expensive packs. I've got some Pro Match brand 3800 Zapped stick packs that work well, but Tower has the Epic brand for $40. I'd maybe hunt around a bit because I payed a little less than that. A zapped 3300 stick should be much less than that, but Towerhobbies has them nearly 40 as well. Therefore I wouldn't buy the batts from Tower, I'd search your LHS and other places to get a deal. A 3300 pack should be plenty of battery for you, but don't buy the 3300 if a 3800 is only $2 more.

Next a charger. Hmm, I don't know if I recommend the Superbrain 959 for your application, but I might. I have one of those and it works ok, but there are a few things I don't like about it. I've heard guys liking the 969 or 979 (The better one, can't remember the number). I just moved to ICE's, but again for a beginner the ICE may not be the way to go simply because of price. As I look around, most of the chargers are over 100, and are DC only such as the ICE. That means you also have to purchase a power supply. Honestly for the money, look at the MRC Superbrain 959. The highest it will charge is 4.5amps wich is why I don't like it, plus it false peaks a little more etc, but its only in the $45 range and dollars matter. The other option might be the Intellipeak AC/DC Delux Pulse charger. Its about $75 but will charge NiMH, or NiCD up to 6.5amps. That may be a good charger for you as well. Remember with batteries, you need to be discharging them after your run.

Motor, I think for a touring car, a Trinity Moster stock is tops. However, I've used Reedy MVP's before Off-road and I think I could tune one of those to work well in a TC. Motor is really personal taste. I've never cared much for P2K or P2K2's, Green Machine 3 isn't exiting to me either. I have used the Hellfire and liked it. The old Orion Chrome stock was one of my favorites. I'd have to say Monster, MVP, Hellfire and Chrome were my favorites of late (In no order).

Tires: Talk to the local hot-shoe drivers to find out what hooks up, I can't recommend for your track or area.

Thats about all I can recommend for now, get back to me with your batteries and charger, as well as your steering servo. I'm interested to see what you are running that says only 1 amp...etc.

[brushless losi]

what spur gear should i use to increase speed. i got a stock setup except for motor.

[smoky]

just changing the spur is omly gonna get you very small increases. if that is what you want then changing the spur will work for a more noticeable difference you should change the pinion check the manual it has a chart that is a pretty good starting point>

[Eli the rc guy]

lol ahha as i said all of my stuff is old! Right now Im useing tamiya 1400 racing and a dynomite 1500. And my charger is also Dynomte mega 1. Mymost recent batterie is np 2000 (i got it when i got my car). As for survos ill need to do those checkups that u recremended. Eh and you have to clear up to me what a "saver" is becasue weh i crashed i broke a arm and somethign else i forgot i tryed to put it bak as best I could. Speaking of age Im mostliky the youngest here. Im 12 years od age i started Rcing when i was only 6 years. My first car was a Tamiya stadiam Raider and right now its sutting in my guradge collecting dust.(sorry for the bad spelling).

[brushless losi]

Ne 1 have a xxx-s drift video

[brushless losi]

need to get -4 degrees on camber in front suspension how do i achieve that

[brushless losi]

new to driftin and need help with a drift setup for my xxx-s. this car does not look so popular in its own forum for driftin. already got abs pipin on it. need sum other tips and setups. cmon help a newb out!!!

[JSSuper]

Eli, THe 2000 pack isn't too bad, a little old, but not too shabby. IMO the 1500 stuff is pushing back the time-clock too far.

Honestly for batteries, this is the guy to get them from and his zapped stick pack stuff is pretty good.

http://www.racedayrc.com. Owen is the guys name and he's my battery supplier. He's pretty much everyones supplier around here. He's good to work with, good prices and Great batteries.

Now, for the saver question. See the Servo arm that has a ballstud screwed into it and steering link connected to it? It should be black and has a metal band around it. That is the servo saver assembly. Now in regards to that, I've seen failures (in off-road and on-road) in that area in the following forms:

Worn out and loose
Broken spring (The metal part that surrounds the saver)
broken or stripped servo gears (internally)
and stripped servo splines (The outer splines that the saver slips over, only applies to standard/plastic geared servos)

I'm leaning more toward one of the bottom two, I'm betting its the servo, but yah never know until you get into it. If its the saver thats an easy/cheap replacement. IF its a servo: IMO the Hitec 625MG is great for the TC's and its fast too .15sec @ 6.0v. However, another standard servo will get you back on the track, but don't do any more of that crashing stuff. :D

Start doing some dissasembly troubleshooting in that area, I'm sure you'll find it. Also enlist another racers help, most racers are more than willing to help out others.


Brushless: I'm afraid I can't help you with setups for drifting for 2 reasons. A. Never done it, B. Not going to do it!

Drifting is probably the worst way around a track, its a waste of a competative race chassis, good rubber and asphalt IMO. However, my thinking of a general setup would be to make the car Loose as crap and steer it out. Therefore, set the rear end up firm. Set the front up soft. Maybe switch the springs, purple rear, silver front. If thats not loose enough then maybe even add a sway bar in the rear. Camber and stuff I don't know what to suggest. But if you need -4 I don't think you can wrench that in on the camber links without ruining the ballstuds and caps. Therefore I would change the mounting hole on the upper inside ballstuds inward. Maybe install them in hole #1 up front and hold #5 out back, then wrench in the remaining amount of camber you want. That should do it, but you could always dremel off a little bit of the camber link ends. That way when you wrench them all the way in the ballcups the entire link will be shorter giving you more camber.

[brushless losi]

Where can i buy sway bars for the xxx-s to get a better drift.

[Eli the rc guy]

Thxs Jss but I wont be doing anything much untill the end of the month when i get some cash but that probly wont be enough so.. Ill need to test out my car see if the servo or just free play in the front.

[JSSuper]

Thxs Jss but I wont be doing anything much untill the end of the month when i get some cash but that probly wont be enough so.. Ill need to test out my car see if the servo or just free play in the front.

No prob, take your time and refer to the assembly or instruction manuals if you have them. I'm hoping you find slop, but then suspension parts can cost more than a std S3003 servo anyway.

Loheswaran, I don't think I got back to you on the spring rates. This is the Losi chart that I use:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/los5108.jpg

Brushless, Here are links to the front and rear sway bars for the XXX-S
They are easy to find at Horizon Hobbies, since they are the exclusive distributor for Team Losi stuff.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=XXX-S%20sway%20bar&OverallCatID=

[Eli the rc guy]

Yes yes lots of work to do in the next weeks. Say is there any kind of solution that can gt rid of dirt,rust and other stuff that settles on the car? Because im forced to leave my car in the guradge and its been very wet and moised in vancouver in the last 2 months and there has boon some changes so. If theres anything out there what you know of tell me casue its going to kill the car. Anyways i m kind of having this problem. I put a pair of tires and rims on the back of my car but the opening of the area around the nut is too small and i cant get it off,(I dont know how i got it on) Any sugestions for that? I tested my servos just now i held the horn and tryed to move the tires and there was a little bit of movment and Ive known that already befor so i got to check for the "play" and were its coming from. So it sounds like I have a broken saver boys. lol

[Loheswaran]

Thanks for the chart - would you like a copy of my chart - it just list several manufacturers side by side!

My car went fairly well on friday - funnily enough the standard tyres fealt better then the foam ones - very odd!

Anyway - joining up fully this week and am gonna take part in three rounds! I got an extra set of 3600 nihms to make my battery pack total 3! - that should keep me busy!

Lohan

[motoholic]

Does wd-40 really work to clean out electric motors. Also, is anyone running brushless how is it compared to brushed

[JSSuper]

Loh, yah post a pic of it if you get a chance. Sometimes its hard to find the right spring rate that you want, in the same manufacturer as your car.....

Motoholic, NO, WD isn't a good idea. Pick up a can of Motor cleaner from your LHS. There are more thorough ways to clean the motor but that ivolves a comm stick and or a pencil eraser, dawn soap, and brush hood alighnment tool along with motor cleaner.

See here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWJ4&P=ML

There are many brands, but they are all basically the same. Once cleaned thorough, clean the brushes and remember to lube the bushings/bearings.

Brushless are nice because they require no maintenance and are sealed. I'll be running a Novak setup in my 10T this summer at our local track. Simply for the "sealed/no maintenance" feature. In my sedan though, I'm favoring brushed motors. Team Checkpoint mods are where its at IMO, some on the track are having great luck with the Brushless stuff, both Reedy NEO and Novak Velocity. I think the Novak stuff is a little faster than the Reedy IMO. However, when we get outdoors on a larger track we may find the current brushless stuff won't hang with the 'TC' 7x1. Though, the brushless stuff is getting faster all the time so by spring I may be the slow car, but I have a NIB Novak GTB sitting on the shelf, just in case :cool: . That new Velocity 4.5 looks to be totally nasty :eek: , I thought the 5.5 was ballistic. The 6.5 will hang right with the better NEO1. I've read that a lot of the "Hot shoe" racers run the 6.5 off stuff off-road and a local racer has a 6.5 in his sedan and does very well.

As it goes, a 5.5 won't get you the win over a 6.5 if you can't control the power..... ;)

[Loheswaran]

I hope this link does the trick as I cannot attach the document as it is in word format

www.rcingreece.com/index.asp...arison&super=38
http://www.rcingreece.com/index.asp...arison&super=38 (http://)


I hope that is correct

good luck

lohan

[kultar]

I'm having issues w/ my rear diff on my xxx-s, it keeps getting loose within 3 minutes of running. I just recently disassembled my diff, cleaned, greased and reassembled it. i ended up losing one of my thrust bearings so i replaced it with some from my LHS (same size). I have a feeling that they may be causing the problem but not sure. Do you think it's worth getting the molded thrust bearing (located at: http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/the-21196/TEAM-LOSI-LOSA3098-Molded/Detail ) or is my problem worse than that? Also...does anyone know if they make a rear spool for the xxx-s?

[pedeguy9114]

I am having problems with my brushless xxx-s...

I was just out running my XXX-S which I got off ebay a few days ago... it has a Novak SS5800 brushless motor and the Super Sport speed control. Whenever the battery gets slightly under half charged, if I hit it full throttle the car will go straight for maybe 4 or 5 feet, then veer sharply to the right. Is this just a bad servo? I've tested it on multiple batteries and it doesn't do it when the battery still has high charge, or when it has really low charge. Any ideas?

Any help/suggestions what-so-ever is GREATLY appreciated,
Thanks.

[motoholic]

I just bought a new lexan body. I was wondering about paints. I heard that you can use just regular spray paint on them. Is this true or do I need to go out and buy tamiya spray paint.

[kultar]

regular spray paint is a bad idea. tamiya make good paint so that's a good route.

[JSSuper]

Loheswaran, thats a good chart to have around. Thanks!

Kultar, Now that you've re-lubed your diff I bet you'll be fine. If your car was new, they tend to loosen up a bit as your break the diff in with runs. They should be checked every battery or two for the first few runs with the car. I had an issue where my diff broke in (loosened) and I didn't catch it. Melted the inner section of the diff pulley assembly right out.. Cost me a main. Now I make sure to check my diffs frequently as I break them in and even after that.

Pedeguy, that could be some kind of glitch... Make sure you don't have any exposed wires. Also if you are running a G+, use a small length of fuel tubing to shield your antenna between the receiver and tube. If that wire is touching the graphite chassis it can cause lots of weird issues. Thats my thoughts, but I don't have a lot of experience with Brushless' yet ;)

motoholic, the paint has to be flexible and designed for lexan. Tamiya is good, as is Parma Faskolor for the airbrush. Pactra racing finish is another very popular brand of "rattle can" paints

[kultar]

well i did fix my diff problem.... turns out putting the diff in the wrong way (haha i know i'm stupid) caused it to unscrew it self lol...so i switched it and it's working just like it was. Only thing is, i want a rear spool but i can't find one anywhere, ahh well...guess i'll keep looking.

[JSSuper]

well i did fix my diff problem.... turns out putting the diff in the wrong way (haha i know i'm stupid) caused it to unscrew it self lol...so i switched it and it's working just like it was. Only thing is, i want a rear spool but i can't find one anywhere, ahh well...guess i'll keep looking.


The front and rear diff's are identical basically so couldn't you utilize the spool that is intended for the front in the rear? A spool in the rear.... hmm :confused: You must be a drifter! :D

[kultar]

yeah i'm a drifter but i'm looking at getting into grip...we'll see i guess :) i found a track ~30 min away so i'll try go down there. my grip setup is blue springs front, green springs rear, 50wt oil all around, 4deg front caster, 0deg rear caster, 1deg camber front, 0deg camber rear, 0deg toe in front, 1deg toe in rear. that alright? ahh well, i'm just practing w/ settings atm. I just got a front one-way and i'll see how that is.

[Loheswaran]

Whilst Pactra has a wide range of colours and is reaily available, the stuff does not mix well due to what I think is a high level of tackiness from the plastic paint base. As a consequence it often spits out of an airbrush and even the can.

Pactra is, nevertheless, very flexible and durable as a result of the stuff that is in it.

I really like the Tamiya cans, but the colour range ain't big enough. The beuty with the Tamiya is that you can spray it into an airbrush jar, and then airbrush it. In addition to that it does have a bice finish.

If you are just using cans make sure you follow a good set of guides - ie the one at the back of a proline brochure, or the LRP one.

Good luck, and please post a picture of your results!

Lohan :)

[motoholic]

I was thinkin about maybe some LED's anyone have experience with those, what should I use for light buckets

[smoky]

if your lookin for spray cans go pactra they have tons of colors pearls metallics fluerescent color changing. they are definitely the best and with some practice they can look just as good as airbrushing. ya just gotta know what colors to back different colors with.

[brushless losi]

does anyone have the HPI shelby mustang 200mm body. i wanna know if you need the hpi 31mm offset rims to fill in the gaps

[motoholic]

Ive got an hpi 200mm bmw m5 body. I haven't got it on yet but Ill let you know

[kultar]

yeah you'll need the offset rims. i've got both the hpi shelby and m5 body (200mm) and w/o the offset rims your wheels will be just inside the body.

[motoholic]

do I need the 6mm offset or the 3mm offset, also how did u paint ur m5 I need ideas

[kultar]

i don't have any pics of my m5 but it's got the same paint job as my m3-gtr

Image 1 (http://www.kultar.net/m3gt/outside_4.jpg)
Image 2 (http://www.kultar.net/m3gt/lights_angle.jpg)
Image 3 (http://www.kultar.net/m3gt/outside_5.jpg)
Image 4 (http://www.kultar.net/m3gt/outside_1.jpg)
Image 5 (http://www.kultar.net/m3gt/outside_5.jpg)
Image 6 (http://www.kultar.net/m3gt/lights_front.jpg)

for your offset...3mm would be just right.

[brushless losi]

would this apply to shelby body also. what would it look like with 31mm wheels

[kultar]

i'd prob run the 3mm offset in the front and 6mm in the back. I'm runnin 3mm in front and back, and my back is just a little too far in. go figure.

[brushless losi]

thanks im gunna go with 3 in front and 6 in back

[brushless losi]

anyone run this? how fast does it go?

[kultar]

Considering it's not available 'til mid march (according to tower hobbies) I'm not sure most'll know.

I've got a question...has anyone found a way to reduce the steering slop in the steering bellcranks?

[brushless losi]

Considering it's not available 'til mid march (according to tower hobbies) I'm not sure most'll know.

I've got a question...has anyone found a way to reduce the steering slop in the steering bellcranks?

have u tried Aluminum Steering Bellcrank for XXX-S http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebproductdetail.asp?catmainid=322&id=1041

[kultar]

yeah i have, but it's still not cutting it for me. any other ideas?

[kultar]

got some updated pics of my xxx-s, tell me what you think
Image 1 (http://kultar.net/Chassis/21406/DSCN1138.JPG)
Image 2 (http://kultar.net/Chassis/21406/DSCN1139.JPG)
Image 3 (http://kultar.net/Chassis/21406/DSCN1140.JPG)
Image 4 (http://kultar.net/Chassis/21406/DSCN1141.JPG)
Image 5 (http://kultar.net/Chassis/21406/DSCN1142.JPG)

[motoholic]

looks good, how are those drift tires workin out, i wanna get some

[kultar]

the yokomo single belt work great, especially for me... i get the speed i want from my velociti 5.5r plus the grip isn't too much that i can't break traction easily. lots of fun. I've tried the double belt wheels but the rings themselves protude out beyond the rubber sections so you really don't have any grip. Ahh well. I've tried the HPi Stage-D drift radials too...they're great, especially if you have the right setup, just got to play with your setup more than you would with the yoko's.

[brushless losi]

if ne 1 runs this, how fast does it go? and would gp 3300 be good enough for run time?

[kultar]

i clocked my gtb + velociti 5.5r w/ gp3300's (not matched) at 33mph, in a 40metre stretch, on the stage-d hard compound drift tires. was geared at that time 18/88. right now i've got some ib3800's and ib4200's and i'm geared 26/128, and it feels a tad bit faster...prob coz i've got better cells. ahh well. but speed wise, it's more than enough.

edit: As for run time(gp3300's), on my stage-d tires i get maybe 6-7min tops, but if i run abs i get ~12-13mins, w/ the yoko single ring drift tires i get ~10-11mins. [That's all on regular road]

[minijosh]

Ok it's time for a motor change in my beast. I race only stock motors and I'm racing a Peak Racing hellfire motor. Kind of old I know but just too lazy to solder in a Monster or my P2k2 pro. Which one should I do? I race inside on a tight track.

[kultar]

I was getting tired in the amount of slop in the steering bellcranks, and after some close inspection of them i found that the screw used to keep it secured would bend in the opposite direction to the pressure applied... so i thought about adding a bar that would go between both bellcranks and add some support to the bellcranks... pictures pretty much explained what i did. I used some acrylic and a dremmel, took about 10 minutes to fab. and the amount of slop is practically non existant!

sorry for the blurry pictures, my camera sucks..


http://kultar.net/Chassis/steering/top.jpg

http://kultar.net/Chassis/steering/right.jpg

http://kultar.net/Chassis/steering/topright.jpg

http://kultar.net/Chassis/steering/topleft.jpg

[minijosh]

Nice and simple fix. Well I'm running my monster stock with a 20 tooth pinion and a very red spur, don't know the tooth of it. Is that a good combo for a tight indoor track?

[kultar]

honestly man... i don't know, but i'd run the track w/ different setups and see which one is your fastest. Only way i know of for sure that'd work. You said your track was tight, perhaps gearing more towards accel, than top end? give a few different setups a shot and see what happens

[brushless losi]

has ne one got an idea if 60 mph in a xxx-s is possible? without going overboard on money.

[kultar]

how long you want it to last? you could fry your gtb+ 5.5 by gearing it wrong but hey, you could maybe hit 60+ for a second or two.

[D_Nyholm]

I have my xxx-s up for sale here:

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=215549

[minijosh]

I've been searching thru the site for the internial ratio. Does anyone know it off hand for the G+?

[cblake187]

If no one has used this guy he is a+++++++++++++ all losi and very fast.



http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/StoreFront

www.chattanoogarc.com

[kultar]

I've been searching thru the site for the internial ratio. Does anyone know it off hand for the G+?

1.83

[minijosh]

THX kultar. I bought some of those new CO27 motors and my friend is putting bearings inside and tuning them and he just wants to get the gearing right for my track. Thanks for that site cblake187

[racer34v]

kultar.... thanks for the cars man! theyre pretty dialed now....! i really like the front one way, i am running foams on pavement ( a whole lotta hookup) so no front brake helps get the car turned

alan

[racer34v]

also.... whats better the blue belt or the yellow?

[racer34v]

also... the different offset rear hubs.... what do they do...?

[minijosh]

Isn't the black belt the hopped up version aka long belt?

[kultar]

black belt is the hopped up version.... i've got a link that explains pretty much everything.. let me find it and i'll post it, does a better job explaining than me lol

[pedeguy9114]

I am thinking about getting a xxx-s and this e-bay deal (http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Losi-XXX-S-with-Graphite_W0QQitemZ6048513598QQcategoryZ49217QQssPa geNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) looks sweet...

here is the full link to the one I wanna get:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Losi-XXX-S-with-Graphite_W0QQitemZ6048513598QQcategoryZ49217QQssPa geNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Loheswaran]

I have a losi xxx-s rtr, and am still getting into my driving - I started not so long ago. The funny thing is I also bought a Yokomo SD CGM (second hand) and that has quite a few goodies.

I have only been driving indoors and the losi is just so much dartier and responsive - superb!

Anyway - my problem is that when I crash my ball joints just pop and need re building/ re-inserting. This is really irritating, because any crash, even minor is basically making me lose lap after lap!

My yokomo SD CGM has had some RPM sockets put on them and they don't share this problem.

In light of this can anyone gove me a ball joint/stud upgrade recommendation - I am more interested in a heavy duty item as opposed to a lightweight item.

Secondly - on the subject of suspension arms - which are the best - Losi standard, Losi graphite, Trinity/Matt francis, or Fastrax.

are the aluminium items more durable or not?

[minijosh]

Just raced tonight and I did my best times ever. A final guys had 36 laps and I got 30. New body shell helps out a lot. I'm running the Nemesis.

[racer34v]

Loheswaran - I upgraded all of mine to Dubro rod ends..... no slop and very secure

[minijosh]

Anyone race stock motors besides me?

[brushless losi]

does bigger tire diameter give faster speeds?

[pyro18t]

I have a question. I have a XXX-4, and eventually I plan on getting an On-Road car. I really like Tamiya cars because they are built like tanks, but I was wondering since I have a XXX-4 should I get a XXX-S so I have similar parts?

I plan on mostly bashing, but some racing, nothing to serious mostly for fun. I've been in the RC world since I was 10 and now I'm 23, but I'm starting from scratch, since I sold everything before I joined the military.

here's what I was thinking for choices

TT-01
TA-05
XXX-S

[racer34v]

brushless - yes if your not overgeared, larger tire = longer rollout = higher top speed with same rpm

pyro, i have both and the only parts that cross over are servo mounts, steering quadrants (the parts that pivot on the frame) and the antenna mount!

however they are constructed in similar fashion and the xxx-s can be made bulletproof, i punish mine with the board treatment often and with a few crafty additions i havent broken many parts in a while. at first i was leery of the belt drive but with the black belt i have had no problems, even with a reedy neo one powering it!

[pyro18t]

What's the best belt out right now? I thought that the yellow belt is the newest one. I have complete faith in belt driven cars, I've had 2 RS4's, and one RS4 2 Pro. So I know that a belt driven car can hold it's own under power.

So the Diff's can't be swapped over between the two cars?

I have another question about the chassis. Is the chassis that comes with the car graphite? Or is the only graphite chassis that they make the one with the cut outs in it?

Jay

[racer34v]

The only graphite one is the one with cut outs, your right i think the diffs will swap out

Black belt is the long one / tough one

[BillH]

Hello all,
I just picked up a xxx-s Graphite+ to play with. I am running a 19t motor. I was hoping for some set-up tips. I run it on an 83foot groove carpet oval. I need help with tire selection and springs. Gearing might be handy too. Thanks look forward to talking with you all soon.

[pyro18t]

The only graphite one is the one with cut outs, your right i think the diffs will swap out

Black belt is the long one / tough one

So what's the yellow belt?


if that's the case with the G+ chassis, then I guess that I've got something unique. Here's my little story. I bought a XXX-4 G+ and when I was putting it together I couldn't get the slack out of the belt with the belt tensoiner (sp?) After talking to Losi, and kinda figuring it out for my self, they sent me a XXX-S chassis. Losi said that they F-ed up and maned a batch of XXX-4 chassis to the size/specs of the XXX-S which is about an inch or so shorter. So I have a genuine graphite chassis without the cutout hole for the XXX-S kinda cool huh. The only thing that sucks is that it's been almost 20 days and I'm still waiting on the correct chassis from Losi, it's supposed to be shipped out today.

So I figure if I ever wanted to make a rally car out of my XXX-S (which I don't have yet), that's the chassis I would use since it's ligher, stronger, and less exposed.

Jay

[racer34v]

can you post a pic of that chassis? sounds neat

yellow belt is stock xxxs

are you using 64 pitch or 48 pitch gears bill?

[BillH]

I have 64 pitch in it now. I copied a few set-up sheets from the Losi web site but I am sure they are road course set-ups.

[redsixer]

I recently bought my son a XXXS, and was wondering which is the best way to wire in the speed control. I currently have both battery wires running over the top of the tunnel in the back, and it just seems kind of awkward. Just wondering if theres a better way. Any pics you have would be cool.

[racer34v]

thats pretty much the only way sixer

congrats on the xxx-s , youll like it

alan

[motoholic]

RCX
May 6-7, 2006
Anaheim Convention Center, Hall D
800 West Katella Avenue
Anaheim, CA 92802

Show Dates & Hours

Saturday, May 6, 2006 9 a.m.-10 a.m.* Trade/Press only
Saturday, May 6, 2006 10 a.m.-6 p.m.* General admission
Sunday, May 7, 2006 9 a.m.-10 a.m.* Trade/Press only
Sunday, May 7, 2006 10 a.m.-5 p.m.* General admission

[minijosh]

You can cut away some of the clear plastic guard and put the wires thru there. It makes it a bit more neat but there goes the fully sealed drivetrain. It's no biggy though, I have it on my xxx-s g+ and my xxx-4 g+.

[Eli the rc guy]

Hey guys, Guess whops back?!?!? Lol. So like, i had a job for a lil while. saved up some money and is now gunan do what Jssuper sugested me to do. But befor I get anything. I was just wondering how the servos with a round disk servo horn works. If anyone can tell me let me know so I wont istall it wrong when I get it =D.

[microrcdude]

oh they are the same as every other servo. Most companies show their servos with them round things cause they use the same servos in planes. When you buy a servo, it comes with other servo horns to put on the servo to fit your car

[Eli the rc guy]

Hi again. So not all of u might have figured out yet that I dont race at all in rcing, Im more of a backyard rcing for fun thing. That i decided to try to make my car as fast as im willing to drive it at. So Ive been looking around for a new esc but I cant seem to find one that suits me and be able to handle tge right amound of motor turns. Im looking for around.. 6-8+ turns so if anyone can find a esc or know one that can hold up lemme know. I ed also like to know if tower hobbies prices american or not becasue Im in Canada and Ied like to order from them. ^.^""" sorry if my question are realy stupid sounded, I dont have alot of ecperience. Mabe when I do Ill get into racing =D

[minijosh]

All you have to do is fine a company who makes a no limit motor esc. I know a lot of LRP's are that way. I'd say look at your local shops and see what they sell. If you want to order online then get it from Hong Kong.

[Bugs Buggy]

Does anyone know what a good starting gear ratio would be for a XXX-S G+ using a Tamiya Silver Can Motor?? I currently run 128/35 (64 pitch) with my Cobalt Stock motor.. I'm assuming the pinion needs to be higher with the silver can...?

The track I goto uses TCS rules and sometimes there aren't enough stock motor guys to run the stock class...there are however, a ton of GT-3 (silver can ) runners there... so I was wondering what I need to do if I need to switch motors in a pinch....

:cool:

Bugs

[pyro18t]

Oh yeah baby, I'm buying TRS6's XXX-S G+ and parts! Looks like I'll be going the club.

I chose this car because I have a XXX-4 G+ and it has very similar drivetrain and components.

Jay

[minijosh]

I just got a mamba max and I need help on what pinion/spur I should run. I'm use to running stock motors so this is a new area of racing for me to look at. Any help? I got the 4600 aka 12 turn.

[minijosh]

The track I goto uses TCS rules and sometimes there aren't enough stock motor guys to run the stock class...there are however, a ton of GT-3 (silver can ) runners there... so I was wondering what I need to do if I need to switch motors in a pinch....

They'll let you run your Losi in with the TCS rules? Now that's odd. I guess it helps the normal racers who do the TCS keep up their skills. I'd go up a tooth or 3 just to see where it's at.

[chadori rc'er]

Bugs Bunny- I run a 540 silver can in my XXXS G+ and run a ratio at 4.1 at my track. Im not sure what your track looks like but you could start between 5.0 and 4.3 or around that mark.

This is how the ratio works:

Spur Gear / Pinion Gear x Internal Ratio (1.83)

[Max ST Boy]

Theres an XXX-S for sale in the Classifieds on here. The name of the ad is Bench Clean up sale: XXX-S, JR, Reedy, Novak...I'm listing it for $90...first one takes it home.. Thanks

[Eli the rc guy]

Hey dose anyone have the GTB 3.5 turn system in their XXX-S? If u do could u tell me the gearing?

[associatedude92]

Does anyone have a XXX-S RTR they would be willing to trade for a RC10GT that has a brand new engine and is only 2 months old????

sorry want one really bad.

[howielong]

Is anybody running the Associated Sphere Neo-One 1 Star motor package. If so what is your gearing.

[minnesh]

guys,
just got a losi xxxs (used) sems to be much slower that the rest of the field around the track
can anyone recomend the best gearing for a 540 silver can motor
i have a green 88 and a red spur 86
which would be the best pinions for these please
thnks
minnesh sa

[graeme_rsa]

Hi Guys

I've a couple of questions regarding the steering setup of the xxx-s.

I have 3 xxx-s chassis, 2 graphite and 1 standard. One of the graphite chassis has two mounting positions for the steering posts - the other 2 chassis have only one position. I have not been able to find any references to what differences the forward or rear positions make to the steering! Any help here?

The set-up sheets for the G+ that can be downloaded from Losi mention 'Ackerman Position' - forward or back - does this apply to the chassis positions or to whether the the large holes in the bellcranks are at the back or the front! Page 8 of the manual states that the large holes in the bellcranks must be towards the rear! Both my graphite chassis cars have the large holes at the front as does the picture on the Losi Website www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_page/xxxs_tweak.htm (http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_page/xxxs_tweak.htm)
My steering can have 4 different positions! I won't ask which one is best but rather what difference does each make to the steering?

Cheers

Graeme

[minnesh]

540 johnson with xxx s losi
whats the best gearing for this please
thanks
minnesh

[graeme_rsa]

540 johnson with xxx s losi
whats the best gearing for this please
thanks
minnesh

Hi Minnesh

At the last meeting I was running 35/88 for a rollout of 43.03 and it was quite fast. Can't find a bigger pinion locally or I would have tried 36/88 for 44.26.
My problem at the last meeting was that the car was 'turning in' suddenly as I went round the tighter corners - dialing out stopped that, but then I had no steering!

Cheers

Graeme

[DaveNOS]

Minnesh,
I was having the same problem. I love older cars, especially Losi, and my xxx-sG+ was getting eaten up by the newer cars on the track. I consider myself a really good driver, so I new it couldn't just be me. I went onto the Losi website to download some setup sheets and found an old Matt Francis set up for tight carpet tracks. This set-up works GREAT!! I modified a few small things like tire compound, and droop, but other than that I followed it pretty close. I'm keeping up with the faster guys now, and the best thing is, I don't have to go and buy a new car. It seems like no one is running these anymore.

[racer34v]

Hey, i have alot of xxx-s parts cheap on the ebay, One is setup for dirt late model competition.... check it out: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZracer34v

[madmat_tco]

I understand the reason to use a front one way diff or hub, my question is will the car still be able to use reverse? or will the one way lock up when tried to turn in reverse?

[lordoftraxxas]

ok i have a losi xxx-s and i have a lrp ai pro reverse brushed esc and am running hpi x-pattern radial belted wheels and was wondering whats a good motor to run i was thinking about the new komodo and swapping my rubber for parma foam what turn should i run maybe stay at 19 turn or should i go maybe go 14 or 12 and if i were what should i change my gearing to???? thanx

[lucybluemoon]

can anyone tell me if the steering knuckle on the xxxs is the same and/or compatible with the xxx4g. running off road the steering knuckle has brokem a couple times on me and i know there are alloy knuckles for the xxx-s. will they fit without other mods??

peace.

lucybluemoon

[howielong]

can anyone tell me if the steering knuckle on the xxxs is the same and/or compatible with the xxx4g. running off road the steering knuckle has brokem a couple times on me and i know there are alloy knuckles for the xxx-s. will they fit without other mods??

peace.

lucybluemoon


They have them here, out of stock, also check ebay though.

http://www.asiatees.com/model.php?brand=Team%20Losi&model=XXX-S&pid=1

[Eli the rc guy]

Wow, this thread is still going! =O

[4x4_Racer]

Hey Guys,

Sorry, kinda skimmed through the topics. Page here and there, didn't see what I was looking for. Lots of questions though, please be patient.

I am wanting to convert my XXX-S to 2wd so I can race dirt oval this winter. What belt do I need to purchase to do this? or what do I need to disconnect?

I also have a concern with tires. I am thinking XXX-4 wheels/tires with some pink tapers for early in the evening when its REALLY tacky. But what about foams? Has anyone tried them on a dirt oval? The way our tack is layed out, offroad races on top of it as well. So by the end of the night, it gets pretty dry. Figured foams might give me that edge.

Now if foams are the hot ticket. What compound should I be looking for? Is there any special things I need to do to these to keep them biting hard every race?

[4x4_Racer]

Basically, I guess to make it easier to understand I am wanting a smaller belt that will go around the motor gear, route above the tensioner and around the rear differencial.

Example is the red line in my attached file. Is there a belt that I can buy that will do that?

[teptank]

hi, i recently picked up my car after a few years of not racing. i went to change out motors and do an overall clean up and i noticied that the motor mounting in te chassis seem to be stripped. i had switched from the stock chassis to the graphite chassis and im assuming thats the problem. i was wondering is anyone else as experienced this problem and if so how to fix it without buying a new chassis.

[howielong]

I've heard about taking out the screw putting in a drop of CA glue and screwing the screw back into the slot or hole. Something like it would remake the threads . I've never tried it though.

[redbarton]

Does anyone know if the Street Weapon Dust Cover will fit the XXX-S?

[Miedin]

Anybody got an XXX-S roller for sale?

[BanditMike]

does anyone know a good source of hop ups for these cars?

[Mini-TBasher55]

Dynamite used to make some, not sure if they still do or not.

[BanditMike]

Thanks!

[chauffeurexpres]

Hi
I receive today my XXX-s brushless my battery is charge 6 cell 3600 nimh and im rdy to start and in the box is say to check the diff but im not sure if is ok and im put outside my car and it start just a litlle bit and car wonjt to go but i dont go just 1 meter . I think it my adjust of my diff somebody can help my here. plz thank because is say to tigh the diff but i dont see any screw and the allen to block the tire but i see any trouble change when i put the allen and try to turn the right tire plz help me thank .

[roxyblue57]

Dynamite used to make some, not sure if they still do or not.

can you give the email address or web site for dynamite thanks Geefa

[Mini-TBasher55]

can you give the email address or web site for dynamite thanks Geefa

dynamiterc.com

Might not be on the site anymore. Try eBay if its not

[roxyblue57]

not on ebay thanks george australia

[roxyblue57]

Hi
I receive today my XXX-s brushless my battery is charge 6 cell 3600 nimh and im rdy to start and in the box is say to check the diff but im not sure if is ok and im put outside my car and it start just a litlle bit and car wonjt to go but i dont go just 1 meter . I think it my adjust of my diff somebody can help my here. plz thank because is say to tigh the diff but i dont see any screw and the allen to block the tire but i see any trouble change when i put the allen and try to turn the right tire plz help me thank .

where did you buy your xxx-s and did it come with a brushless thanks geefa australia

[7urb0_c471]

The XXX-S is available with a brushless motor system by Novak. It's just called the XXX-S Brushless RTR, and costs US$379.99. I don't know about aluminum parts though.

[roxyblue57]

thank you have been very helpful Geefa australia

[roxyblue57]

thanks you have been very helpful thanks geefa

[Dee]

Anybody out there running these in USVTA? There's a guy running one at our local track that is very competitive. I've got two, one ready, working on the other. Available parts may become an issue, though, I hope Losi continues to support this chassis!