Team Losi XXXT Forum v2.0

[DIXIE BOY]

Hello losi fans! What do yall think of the xxx-t sport? I want to get in the racing scene again and want a good reliable truck. I would also like to look at a 1/8 buggy. The xxx-t sport seems to be a good deal and i am also considering the t3 team. Any suggestions? And what is the transmission gears made of in the xxx-t? thanks

[Casper]

DIXIE BOY--If you are getting into racing I would get the MF truck. It has all the "racing" features you want all in one box. If you are looking for a "cheaper" way into the hobby the sport kit is easier on the wallet and can be fully upgraded but it will cost you a lot more to get the sport and upgrade it to rull MF race specs. The gears in the two cars are identical. I would get a XXX-T RTR over the spec truck if you do not have a radio and electronics. If you have all the electronics and want to race stepup and get the Matt Francis truck. You will not regret the decision.

[Namvet]

Can anyone tell me which model Jr radio come with the xxx-t RTR?

I am thinking about purchasing the RTR and wanted more info on the radio that comes with it.

Thanks

Namvet

[dgrobe2112]

The RTR kits come with the JR XR2 radio. It is a 2 model memory AM 75mhz radio. Prolly the best radio for a RTR kit. This radio will hold 2 model memory on it, basically.. you can have a XXXT progamed on there, and then if you got another car like a XXXS.. you can have settings on there for it too.. and not mess up your trim settings for your other vehicle..

[RevSublime]

the outdrives on my MFE ended up with nasty little sem-circles in 'em where the CVD hit them. Any idea what caused this? Too much torque? Slop?

ALso...when replacing them, do they come as a set or is it actually $7 per outdrive?

THanks for help in advance.

[LasagnaCat]

It's actually $7 each - and remember there's a male one and a female one, they're not interchangable. I think it may be driving style more than anything, I have to replace my wifes every couple months on her NT while mine have been on my NT for over a year. I've replaced her actual truck with other NT's twice along the way, she did it on all three. :)

[RevSublime]

are you positive about the male-female thing? When I first went to replace them, I was given the parts for a Monster Drive diff, which has a male and a female. But the ones for the MFE are different. INstead of male-female they are the same but one has a piece that slips thru that makes it male...meaning eithr piece could be male depending on which side you put the diff tube thru...

make any sense? heh

[Casper]

The outdrives for the XXX-T are the same for each side if you are using the steel outdrives. The wear you are describing is normal wear and tear for these. LasagnaCat- The XXX NT use a monster diff that IS DIFFERENT from the XXX/XXX-T outdrives. Those are right and left but the electric diffs use the same outdrive and you put a nipple in one side to make them right or left. If you run plastic or composite outdrive they are side dependent as that nipple is moled into them. To make your outdrives last a little longer you can flip them but it is best to replace them. The Steel ones are $7 a piece the composite are $12 a PAIR (you really need to run the $20 outdrive savers for these but they are resuable). I hope this clears some things up on this subject.

[RevSublime]

NOrmal wear and tear for a car that's only a month old? If that's the case it would seem to be an engineering problem that's letting the dogbone slap against the outdrive more than it should...i would think.

Im trying like heck to bash my t2's outdrives the same way and they're probably over 10 years old...heh no luck... T2's hubs have very little wear

as to the lite-outdrives... what's the partnumber for those?

Thanks for the info Casper

[Casper]

Sorry I missed the month part. Losi did have a quality slip on some outdrives recently. They were not heat treated or something and they wore out WAY faster then normal. They have solved the issue and all current on the shelf outdrives have been back to normal and will last MUCH longer. My steel outdrives last a while. I cannot say 10 years that is for sure but I can get multiple months of racing on a set before they need to be replaced.

[RevSublime]

ahhh...that makes much more sense. I mean..this aint no normal wear...hehehe. there's an 1/8th inch semi-circle already. Not being heat-treated would definitely be a prob.

Hmm...they offerering free replacements like the did with the crap XXX4 parts?

[Casper]

If you contact them I bet they would do it. I did not get any of the bad ones so I am not sure what they have done to make it right. I have seen some of the "bad" batch though and it was amazing as to how bad they wore and how quickly. That is not normal wear for these outdrives though!

[RevSublime]

i'll do that...

Yeah..i knew something was wrong. Ok...that peak handwound i put in it was too much for me to handle...but hey...it's a touring motor, less torque? right? shouldnt have tweaked the hubs so quickly

[RevSublime]

i picked up a 13 turn double Team Orion Rush...

anyone know if its a decent motor for the mfe? gearing suggestions?

[Casper]

The Touring motors just have a different factory timing setting. I cannot remeber if they advanced or retarded the timing for the touring motors though. Regardless they really are the same motors. A 13T rush will be a great motor for this truck. Start gearing at 18/86.

[LasagnaCat]

The outdrives for the XXX-T are the same for each side if you are using the steel outdrives

File that under the 'duh' category, I knew that. lol What makes it worse is that I have four xxx-t's sitting here waiting to go on eBay, all four of which I've torn apart and checked/rebuilt in the last few weeks... I've personally owned (most briefly) nine xxx-t's since they've been out. I really truly dislike the trucks with a passion, must be giving me a subliminal mental block. :)

As mentioned by someone else, this goes way beyond 'normal' wear and tear. I've attached a picture here of the last one I took off my wifes truck after exactly five days worth of running. She's been doing this since she's had the truck(s), so I don't know if it's a recent quality issue - it's been almost two years. At one point I gave her my truck that I'd been using for over a year with the same outdrives and she blew *those* out within a month.. I'm the one working on both, and I've been doing this for almost 20 years.. it's just weird.. lol She does the same thing on her xxx too, but at a much slower rate. I've replaced her xxx ones three times in the last year and a half, mine are still the originals. The thing that makes it really unusual, my stuff gets used way more than hers.

[dgrobe2112]

Man.. i am like you.. in the fact that i am dumbfounded.. on why hers would be bad.. but i love my XXXT.. wouldnt trade it for 2 T3's..

[RevSublime]

LasagnaCat... your wife running a reversing speedo?

Trying to think if maybe goin from reverse to full throttle could cause this prob....

oh..and casper...do you ahve the part #s for the composite hubs and protectors?

[Casper]

Wow-- I have been running my XXXNT (yes I know NT not T) for 3 months now with little signs of wear. I do not run steel outdrives on my electric cars though. I run slidders since I race stock mostly. This is why I mentioned the outdrives on my NT. You should replace your drives shafts occationally also so you get a tight fit in the outdrives. The pins on the shafts wear also. The more slop you start with the faster the outdrives will wear. Are you running losi universals or CVD's on that truck?

[RevSublime]

it's an MFE so i've got the CVD's.... which i just happened to blow out. not sure if it's because of the worn outdrives or because the "replacement" pin that i put in there shattered...shrug.

[Casper]

A-3097 for the composite outdrives. $12.95

A-3095 for the universal outdrives but you will need A-3096 universal for molded outdrives $4.50, A-3025 universal drive shafts $7.00, A-3014 universal pivots 4.50 and A-3015 rear axles $6.00 if you are running CVD's. If you are runing losi universal bones then you will not need the last two items.

[Casper]

RevSublime -- Replace the bones with the next rebuild. That should help some.

[RevSublime]

heh...i have to replace the cvd's...

blew out the cup on one of them...

having the MFE i figured the first things i'd break would be the graphite pieces...never thought the first things I'd break are a titanium turnbuckle and the titanium cvd...:confused:

[Casper]

The CVD's are steel. Look at the pin that goes in the outdrives and if it looks worn (they get flat spots on them) then replace the bone itself. Also check to see if they are bent. You can buy the CVD bone itself instead of the whole CVD kit but check the pins first. If they look flat and worn it would be a good idea.

[LasagnaCat]

LasagnaCat... your wife running a reversing speedo?

I kinda bled the topic over into an area where it shouldn't be.. lol That's from her NT, no speedo to have reverse. :) Since the cvd topic came up, she does the same thing with cvd's or the stock universals... that's why I say that it has to be driving style, which is something you kinda can't make someone change. She doesn't look (or sound) like she's doing anything wrong.. who knows <shrug>

[LasagnaCat]

never thought the first things I'd break are a titanium turnbuckle

Rev... you know you can send that turnbuckle in to Lunsford and they'll replace it free, right..? The address is on their website. The best part, whenever I send any in (I collect them from people at the track and send in 5-15 at a time, the Lunsford people probably hate me) they always come back in a week...

[RevSublime]

Yeah...heard that from someone else. GOod thing i thought a broken Ti turbuckle was cool enough to keep...imma send that puppy back. :)

[Danno]

I`ve broken no less than 5 Ti turnbuckles in the last two weeks !
Oh Yea , my outdrives did the same thing !

[dkj-M3]

if your breakin the stock lundsfords tie-rods that come with the Drake or MF kits, then upgrade to the super duty's with traxxes captured ends. I have never broken or bent one.

[venom8001]

i keep destroing the diff gear why would this be happing

[dkj-M3]

the slipper might be to tight

[Gutter Ball]

Your diff may to be too loose, or you need to "work" the diff a bit before you put it back in.

[TheRealDudeman]

Please everyone if you have any thing about the XXX you would like to talk about, ask questions about, tell about go to XXX Racing (http://com1.akheva.com/bxxxracing) and please join

[bashbrook]

I bought my truck about 2 1/2 months ago and about 6 weeks ago I started having trouble with my differential. I run 1 or 2 batteries and the differentials comes loose, it so loose that the gears spin the truck does not move. HELP!

[speedydave]

You may have put the diff in backwards.

[bashbrook]

I don't thinks so since I can put my whimpy included hex screwdriver and attempt to tighten the back left tire (if looking from the front).

Why do you think it could be backwards? Any other ideas?

[Danno]

The adjustment side should be on the "drivers side or the left looking at the back of the truck .
Insert the little allen wrench and turn the right tire to adjust it . It should not bark with the slipper adjusted properly , if does you will melt the balls into the diff . gear:(

[bashbrook]

The space for the wrench is on the driver's side and when I try turning the right wheel, it never tightens. I am very frustrated, I have taken it apart twice and the same things keeps happening!

[TheRealDudeman]

you stripped the diff nut and it needs replacing

[Casper]

TheRealDudeman- I agree. When ever you rebuild the diff use a new lock nut. This is a VERY cheap way to make sure you diff stay nice and tight. Losi now has a new diff nut which should work better. I would still replace this everytime you rebuild the diff. As for a right or wrong way to put the diff in it does not matter. The reason that diff goes in the way they tell you to is to make it easier to adjust when it is in the car. If you put the diff with the adjustment screw on the passenger side the spur and slipper are in the way. The Gas truck has the diff adjustment screw installed on the opposite side then the electric cars so that proves the screw side is not to keep the screw tight but for convience in adjusting the diff once installed. Make sense?

[RCOldskool]

I know this isn't the right thread for this but it the most active in the truck category that the JRX-T is related to. My question: Does anyone have an old Car Action magazine with the Losi JRX-T ad?
I'm looking for any picture of the original paint scheme as I have recently acquired a JRX-T in NEW condition and received a new body for it from Horizon. I'd like to duplicate the paint scheme. I know it was White with Orange and Red stripes. Any type of pic or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!

[R_C_hoodlum]

hi everyone....uh, well i got a XXX-T, sorda...it's the spec but its basically the same thing. Anyway. Ya know the two screws on the top of the motor gaurd.....well one of mine is stripped and no wrench will fit in it and its basically a circle where the wrench goes in and i have no idea how to get it out. PLEASE HELP:confused:

[Keemos]

I have this happened to me too… I have a tool from Sears call the Craftsman Screw-Out (cost $19.99). It works great for these situations. You can also take a Dremel cutting tool and cut a line down the center of the head of the screw (be sure not to go too deep) and use a flat-head screwdriver to remove it.

I also replaced mine with a pair of 4-40 machine screws.

Hope this helps...

[Casper]

You might be able to get ahold of that screw with a pair of good pliers and get it out. With the rounded head this might be a trick though. The dremel trick works well but use the thinest cutoff wheel for making the slot. Like Keemos said you can put cap head screws in there so this should not happen again.

[Crashinj]

:D After much head scratchin and mind changing I've finially decieded what I'm getting for my return to RC. I'm picking up a Matt Francis Edition truck in about a week or so. It going to come with a used body but I'm wondering will any truck body fit on it? Or do I have to have a certain brand? Where can I get these bodies? LHS only has a few sedan type bodies. Thanks!

CrashinJ

[Casper]

You have to get bodies made for the XXX-T. Losi makes 2 bodies that I know that fit and I think Pro-line makes at least two bodies that fit the XXX-T. Other bodies can be fit to the truck but you will have to modify the body posts or have the body mounted too high so it will not perform well. www.stormerhobbies.com is a good place to find them on-line if you cannot get one through your lhs.

[felix]

?

[dkj-M3]

fast.

just get a brushless motor, to keep going fast.

[shift fast]

Ok so I got the Money what brushless should I put in my truck

lehner
novak
hacker ?

Any ideas

or should I just go with a 10t and new esc

[Viperrgh2]

#1, with diffrent mounting and cutting would a rc10gt body fit a losi xxx-t? #2 whats a good motor/battery set-up I can use for my explorer 2 esc thats not very high priced?

[jpel200]

CrashinJ...... Casper is right...Losi makes the standard body, or the Fury.... Proline makes the GMC or crowdpleaser... the latter three are the best I think. And from what I have heard, the Fury is a great combination of the other three. I just don't happen to like it. LOL. I run the GMC bodie myself. just casue it is what I like.

Race Hard.... Look good!

John Pelfrey

[illmatic]

Hey, well I have been reading the losi boards , and I made up my mind on the xxxt over the t3. BTW i have an emaxx already, thinking of selling so I can get a Tmaxx(not sure yet). Anyway my question is if I go with a novak brushless system on a xxxt(rtr), what kind of speed iam i looking at? or Iam I better of getting the xxxtmfe, and then the brushless set up. I really want the speed of a nitro, but without all the hassle of one. Any info would be apprecated. BTW i have been reading the brushless forum, but i havent really read any post on speed test.

[Knappster]

im thinking about getting a xxx-t sence theres no racing class for my nmt. what speed would i get with p2k motor or anything above 17t

[King]

To get the speed of nitro power I would suggest a 10 or 11 double modifide and with a p2k2 it would probably top out around 30. About the brushless setup it's comparable to a 10 single if not a double. :D :cool:

[drumr racer]

does any body now what can remove ca with out hurting the rims i have a mf edition and like the red rims i heard paint thinner can do the trick but any help would be great:)

[vtjvt]

Originally posted by drumr racer
does any body now what can remove ca with out hurting the rims i have a mf edition and like the red rims i heard paint thinner can do the trick but any help would be great:)

ok I have done this a few time and it works great, preheat your oven to 350 degrees, put your tires on a cookie sheet or tinfoil, turn the oven off and put the tires in and let them sit in there for 15 or 20 minutes, they will be hot but when you take them out you can remove the tires pretty easily.

[Mr.X]

Hey guys, I recently got my stock motor cut (core stock) and it has been doing great but there is a problem. The speed and power is incredible the first 2-3 minutes of the race, but the rest of the time is seems to have less top speed and punch. And sometimes the power kicks in but only at high rpm. The batts are fully charged. I have been using 2400's and 3000hv's. This has never happened before. I have the motor geared at 19/86. I have tried it at 18/86 but it does not preform as well. So, can someone tell me what's up?


Thanks

[jarrodb]

MAYBE OVERHEATING

[Mr.X]

So the solution is? How about switching to a 18t pinion?

[MTXT]

....

[MTXT]

....

[MTXT]

Ok, im new and have a XXX-T. And I thought you all might enjoy this pic of my truck in action...:D

[jarrodb]

hey sup i have a xxx t with a17 turn madscientist atomic force

with a 19 t pinion i wana make my car go faster wat size pinion will make my car go the fastet with out have over heating problems and stuff like that

[olewarrior]

I NEED HELP FIGURING THIS OUT,I HAVE XXX-T MF TRUCK.I HAVE CHANGED TO SKIP PIVOT MOD,I HAVE ALSO PUT TRINITY 0 DEGREE HUBS ON IT.THIS THING IS EVEN LOOSE LIKE ON ICE ON PAVEMENT,GOD KNOWS WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE ON DIRT.I HAVE REMOVED 1-WASHER OFF THE HUBS,IT HAD 2 TO START WITH,ON SKIP'S MOD I STARTED WITH 2-WASHER UNDER THE PIVOT BALL ON IT,I PULLED 1-OUT.THE TRUCK IS SO LOSE ON PAVEMENT I AM AFRAID TO TRY IT ON DIRT.CAN SOMEBODY PUT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION,THAT IS ALL I HAVE CHANGED ON THE TRUCK AS FAR AS MAJOR PIECES.DID I OVER BOARD WITH THE HUBS & SKIPS MOD BOTH.HELPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!

[olewarrior]

I NEED HELP FIGURING THIS OUT,I HAVE XXX-T MF TRUCK.I HAVE CHANGED TO SKIP PIVOT MOD,I HAVE ALSO PUT TRINITY 0 DEGREE HUBS ON IT.THIS THING IS EVEN LOOSE LIKE ON ICE ON PAVEMENT,GOD KNOWS WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE ON DIRT.I HAVE REMOVED 1-WASHER OFF THE HUBS,IT HAD 2 TO START WITH,ON SKIP'S MOD I STARTED WITH 2-WASHER UNDER THE PIVOT BALL ON IT,I PULLED 1-OUT.THE TRUCK IS SO LOSE ON PAVEMENT I AM AFRAID TO TRY IT ON DIRT.CAN SOMEBODY PUT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION,THAT IS ALL I HAVE CHANGED ON THE TRUCK AS FAR AS MAJOR PIECES.DID I OVER BOARD WITH THE HUBS & SKIPS MOD BOTH.HELPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!

[olewarrior]

I NEED HELP FIGURING THIS OUT,I HAVE XXX-T MF TRUCK.I HAVE CHANGED TO SKIP PIVOT MOD,I HAVE ALSO PUT TRINITY 0 DEGREE HUBS ON IT.THIS THING IS EVEN LOOSE LIKE ON ICE ON PAVEMENT,GOD KNOWS WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE ON DIRT.I HAVE REMOVED 1-WASHER OFF THE HUBS,IT HAD 2 TO START WITH,ON SKIP'S MOD I STARTED WITH 2-WASHER UNDER THE PIVOT BALL ON IT,I PULLED 1-OUT.THE TRUCK IS SO LOSE ON PAVEMENT I AM AFRAID TO TRY IT ON DIRT.CAN SOMEBODY PUT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION,THAT IS ALL I HAVE CHANGED ON THE TRUCK AS FAR AS MAJOR PIECES.DID I OVER BOARD WITH THE HUBS & SKIPS MOD BOTH.HELPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!

[olewarrior]

I NEED HELP FIGURING THIS OUT,I HAVE XXX-T MF TRUCK.I HAVE CHANGED TO SKIP PIVOT MOD,I HAVE ALSO PUT TRINITY 0 DEGREE HUBS ON IT.THIS THING IS EVEN LOOSE LIKE ON ICE ON PAVEMENT,GOD KNOWS WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE ON DIRT.I HAVE REMOVED 1-WASHER OFF THE HUBS,IT HAD 2 TO START WITH,ON SKIP'S MOD I STARTED WITH 2-WASHER UNDER THE PIVOT BALL ON IT,I PULLED 1-OUT.THE TRUCK IS SO LOSE ON PAVEMENT I AM AFRAID TO TRY IT ON DIRT.CAN SOMEBODY PUT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION,THAT IS ALL I HAVE CHANGED ON THE TRUCK AS FAR AS MAJOR PIECES.DID I OVER BOARD WITH THE HUBS & SKIPS MOD BOTH.HELPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!

[olewarrior]

I NEED HELP FIGURING THIS OUT,I HAVE XXX-T MF TRUCK.I HAVE CHANGED TO SKIP PIVOT MOD,I HAVE ALSO PUT TRINITY 0 DEGREE HUBS ON IT.THIS THING IS EVEN LOOSE LIKE ON ICE ON PAVEMENT,GOD KNOWS WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE ON DIRT.I HAVE REMOVED 1-WASHER OFF THE HUBS,IT HAD 2 TO START WITH,ON SKIP'S MOD I STARTED WITH 2-WASHER UNDER THE PIVOT BALL ON IT,I PULLED 1-OUT.THE TRUCK IS SO LOSE ON PAVEMENT I AM AFRAID TO TRY IT ON DIRT.CAN SOMEBODY PUT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION,THAT IS ALL I HAVE CHANGED ON THE TRUCK AS FAR AS MAJOR PIECES.DID I OVER BOARD WITH THE HUBS & SKIPS MOD BOTH.HELPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!

[Mr.X]

Does anyone know what is up with my motor?

[Railman]

Mr X,
The Core is near identcal to the MVP...same magnets, & armature design. Along with aligning the brush hoods, what some people do is to trim a little off the leading & trailing edge of the brushes. Somewhere around .010"x 1/16" tall (just near the com) should be about right. What that does is stops the brushes from shorting out for a brief moment, which also causes it to build more heat. Other than that, you probably need to drop down to the 18 to cool it down. You may find that it turns faster laps even though it don't seem like it.
Joe

[Railman]

Ollwarior,
I would look for something binding up...maybe a bent hinge pin, binding ball cup, mismatched (or bent), shock. Does it only do it under accelerating, or when going at a steady speed. If it goes straight at a steady speed, & sideways when accelerating, something isn't even or is binding when the supension compresses. Something may be causing the diff to transfer power to one wheel over the other. A bad bearing, or maybe a worn outdrive that's binding under acceleration could cause it. Maybe one of the axle bearings isn't free? That would explain it since you changed them over. Is the axle shimmed so that the wheel is free when the rim is tightened down? Are your cvd's, or universals free? Maybe they sent two different degree hubs in the upgrade. Sorry I can't do more, but all I can do is offer things that could be wrong. Good luck.
Joe

[asian327]

im thinking about buying the spec truck at http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l124.html but some kids at my school said that the losi trucks were weaker and broke parts easier is this true? is there a sport truck kit like the in the rtr xxxt sport ?also what are the exact requirements for the spec trucks?

[jarrodb]

http://pics.montypics.com/jarrodb/2003-06-12/1055470385_Picture_040.jpg

hope you like it

its the rtr with a new motor and suff like my body?

[2Fast2Fury]

Hi guys, I recently bought a xxx-t and I plan on racing it once I get it together; but I am not a fan of the stock yellow rims at all. I was wondering if the RPM clawz rims are any good for using to race off road. I like the chrome look, and would much rather use those than the stock ones. Will I be at a disadvantage by using these? Thanks in advance.

[Gutter Ball]

The RPM rims are guaranteed for life, but I don't use them anymore. They look cool, but they're weaker than the dish rims.

[2Fast2Fury]

Gutter Ball, thanks for the quick reply. What kind of problems did you have with the RPM rims? I love the way they look over the stock ones, and looking good wins races of course. lol But in all seriousness, did you have problems with them bending? Did they affect handling?

[jpel200]

Ok, this is for a friend of mine that does not have access to the internet. He wants to try racing with his diff locked, but is unsure how to go about doing this. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

John Pelfrey (race hard, try different things? LOL)

[BigBadTahoe]

I was wondering what would be a pretty universal tire to run on stock MFE red rims? Something made by like pro-line or Losi would be nice, the stock rear tires had such little treads and have barely any traction at all now. The SS novak motor really can wear tires down I guess so that why I wanted something more like what comes on the xxx-nt? Could someone give me a few links to towerhobbies for some good racing tires? Thanks!:D :confused:

[racerdave]

Any suggestions on how to gear this motor. The owners manual says 20-88, same as the 19 turn that comes in the truck. rd

[BigBadTahoe]

Are these a good tire for a MFE with a Novak SS BL in it http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX79&P=7 ? I need some tires that will last a while and have good traction on clay like tracks. Are there any Losi tires better than those pro-lines? where can I get the red losi wheels? Please help! :confused:

[jarrodb]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDA4&P=7

with good gearing and a 1900 mah 7 cell battery thanks jarrod

[BigBadTahoe]

I'd say around 25-30mph. Maybe 30 - 40mph if you really want to push it.

[mattyk6]

What online hobby stores do you purchase most of your replacements from?

I have to pick up a pair of graphite front arms and I have been having trouble finding them.

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by 2Fast2Fury
Gutter Ball, thanks for the quick reply. What kind of problems did you have with the RPM rims? I love the way they look over the stock ones, and looking good wins races of course. lol But in all seriousness, did you have problems with them bending? Did they affect handling?

I had a set of Talons for indoor racing. I figured since it was on the carpet using some flashy rims would be okay. I can say they didn't bend or affect handling in anyway. However, if you crash or get hit in the right place, the rim rips right off from where the nut goes on. Yes RPM replaced it no charge, but I had to get a new set of tires. Went back to the dish rims and haven't had one break (yet). We had a couple of other RPM rims break recently outdoors too. I'd stick with the dish rims for serious racing.

[RCGuru1]

Other than the color what is the difference between the xxxt and xxxt spec truck?

[BigBadTahoe]

The MFE xxx-t if thats what you mean is all graphite, the rtr xxx-t is plactic and the spec is just a rtr run without motor, esc, radio, and its a kit of course. Not sure if they still sell the spec kit anymore?

[fishtale17]

Originally posted by mattyk6
What online hobby stores do you purchase most of your replacements from?

I have to pick up a pair of graphite front arms and I have been having trouble finding them.

check out ebay, they have them on there all the time..

[R_C_hoodlum]

The XXX-T and the spec are pretty much the same thing. THe spec just uses more bushings, and it has molded plastic outdrives instead of steel, and the spec comes with all the blue stuff even tires (which smell really bad by the way). But the MFE beats both of em put together, all graphite, all bearings, threaded shock bodies, MIP CVD's, red aluminum front axles, hinge pin brace, and motor mount, Racing tires, and all the red stuff. The spec is great for bashing and if you wanna race really all you need is different tires if the track conditions are right, I would know, I have the Spec.:D

[RCGuru1]

Where does it use bushings?

[R_C_hoodlum]

It uses them in the wheels and steering.

[BigBadTahoe]

For a rough track with meduim and small jumps what do you think would be a good suspension setup? Such as is anyone running orange springs in rear and red in front, with 30wt shock oil in front and 25wt in rear, that is mysetup it is only a little different that MF 2003 jan. setup. Just wondering what works best for certain track conditions. Any ideas would be great!:)

[jpel200]

Ok, At our lhs there is an onroad track. It is on cement and is prepped with sugar water ( I think ), to the point your tennis shoes stick to it. They are wanting some of the trucks to come out and race on the course. What tires do you recomend and should I stiffen the suspension a whole lot? Thanks for any replies.

John Pelfrey

[BigBadTahoe]

These tires might be a good idea to run but I am not for sure. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN12&P=7 Does anyone have a good off-road setup they would like to share? Anyone at all?:confused:

[jarrodb]

got two questions first one what size wheels does the xxx-t have 2.2? also is the surpentine a good motor for the xxxt how fast will power maxx 6 cells and 14 /86 push the car and will this be better then the 17x2 atomic force (as in faster)

thanks , jarrod

[offroadcrazy01]

Hi guy 's I got a xxx-t off e-bay I want to race it now.What battery's and motor's do I need to get inorder to keep up I have been a gas guy for long time now how much diffrent is this going to be.I will be racing in the pro stock class.Any info wound help thanks

[jarrodb]

i heard a p-94 motor is a good racer and for batteries get balistics was it the spec?

[offroadcrazy01]

No it's a mfe what batery's do you run and motor 2400,3300,or3000 matched,race there are so many to choose from

[jarrodb]

for a 6 cell get powermaxx 2400 there cheap :) that what i have and i just ordered a 14 turn speed gem pro serpentine but i had a kyosho atomic force 17x2 its a pretty nice motor for the money i also bought a duratrax streak 12 turn limit and i have jr xr2 radio and servo :)

[Scrad]

If your going to race in pro stock I'd get 3300's. 3000's are good but you can get 3300's for the same price if not cheaper. As far as stock motors go I'm not to sure what motor is good. I do run Monsters in my 12th scale and TC, but I think they are more of an on road motor. I usually race Mod truck. I have used an MVP in my truck and it ran good.

[offroadcrazy01]

Thank you

[Scrad]

Your welcome. Let us know what you decided to get and how your racing is going.

[paulct]

I'll try to keep it brief.

Very new to R/C. Bought an electric Rustler for my son (age 9). Of course now, he wants me to get something so we can bash together, with some real racing possibly in the future. (we've already learned the benfits of server savers, but thats another story!)

I've been scanning the posts here for a bit, and its clear the xxxT-MFE is one heck of a truck. I would rather do it right once, and not get something lame, and be sorry about it. So the question is, will I be able to have FUN with the MFE with stock setups, as I've not been in it long enough to even understand half the questions on here!?

Pertty handy, don't think I'll have any problem with the kit (I do N and HO railroad modelling too).

Also, could someone please recommend a good starting motor for me as well. I'd also like an ESC that has reverse, but also has reverse lock out. Seems like the Novak's are a safe bet.

Also, do I go AM or FM? Not really sure why you'd pick one over the other...

Thanks in advance!

Paul

[jkerr0043]

If you're sure you're going to race, I'd get the MFE. You'll have fun with it but it is an expensive kit if ALL you're going to do is bash. But if racing is in you're future, I agree with you, get the best thing out the first time because you'll want it later if you don't. As for ESC, any of the Novak with reverse will do. But again, racing does not allow reverse, (at least not on any track I've been to) so you go back to the spend the money on the race equipment the first time idea. Personally, I'd go with a GT7. I love them. I use them in all of my cars. And last, AM or FM? No question. Go with FM. Much more range and much less glitching. Only very cheap 2 channel radios that are meant for one car bash sessions are AM any more. I like the Airtronics M8 but it can be very intimidating for a beginner. Maybe try an MX-3. Less complicated but it has the adjustments that a racer MUST have and a MUCH lower price. Hope my ramblings helped.

[racerdave]

My son bashed with an Evader for his first year. We sold that and moved to a XXXT rtr. Very good truck for anybody less than a full on racer, IMHO. Put in a Speed Gems Pro 15t Titanite motor and it flies.

[paulct]

Jkerrr0043 and racerdave:

Thanks for the tips. I realize its an expensive kit, but money is not a huge deal (within reason, of course!).

If an ESC has reverse lock out, I assume that is legit when you are at a track that forbids reverse?

Paul

[jkerr0043]

Yeah it will be legal, but anything that has reverse probably won't be a real high quality race ESC and you'll notice the difference the faster you get on the track. A higher end ESC, like the GT7 is very smooth. And you can change the throttle profile to match what motor you're running and track conditions. If you're running stock on a high grip surface, you can get away with a more agressive setting. (And I belive that's what most of the lower end ESC's are probably aimed at.) But if you run the same setting on a low grip surface with a 12 turn, you'll be spinning the tires all over the place unless you have awesome throttle control. So you set the ESC to a less agressive profile and it smooths out the throttle response. Makes things much nicer and the truck much easier to drive. Just my opinion.

[paulct]

I assume the GT7 has some "plug and go" functionality, so I can run it now and tune it later?

Paul

[jkerr0043]

Yes. You can do the one touch setup and that is set at the factory on profile 4, stock. @ $140-150, you don't spend much more than you would getting a decent reversing ESC and you get one of the best race ESC's out there.

[jarrodb]

yea the xxxt is a great truck but i wish they had more hop ups :) i have the serpentine 14x2 and it flies but i dont use that motor as much as my 20 dollor mad scientist 17x2 atomic force:D thats a great start out motor its fast and i havent even done maintnance on it in 3 months :D it still runs the same way it did when i got it . i also have the duratrax streak with 2400 powermaxx 6 cells id say it hits 30 (the serpentine) with 19/86 gearing and the atomic force hits 21 with that same setup



also i have a question for yall guys k when i spend my front wheels one of them wobbles and the other one doesnt what can be causing that? also is stiffer shocks better then when there soft? like will the a arms brake as much and can yall recoment some road tires?:D

jarrod

[jkerr0043]

Cut the comm and change brushes one that motor you haven't touched in three months. Trust me, it dosen't run like it does freshly rebuilt. As far as breaking arms with stiffer shocks, I hope not. If youre suspension is so stiff it'll break and arm, you'll blow the shock cartridge first.

[jarrodb]

k what stock motor do yall recomend and can some 1 anser y my front wheel shakes? also do they make any aluminum parts for the xxx-t? also does a bumper help with some broken parts?

[ApriliaRacer]

Just got back into RC cars after about a 13 year hiatus.

Picked up a TL XXXT MF and have started construction on it.

I'm curious about the "graphite" construction of the chassis and those parts.

How durable are those parts?

Also I noticed in some cases screws are "screwed" into the graphite as opposed to being held on the otherside by a nut. Anybody have screws "pull out" stripping the self made threads in the graphite?

Tools, I'm using what came in the kit. Are those standard or metric? I'd like to get some better constructed tools...

The turnbuckles; Is/was there a tool included to hold the turn buckles so that you can turn the plastic ball cups on more easily withou resorting to a pair of pliers that bugger up the knuckles?

Thanks for any help!

[BigBadTahoe]

Be careful not to break any of the ball joints off that the turnbuckles connect to, the graphite usually needs to be prethreaded with the screw they provided. As for building the turnbuckles I used 2 pair of pliers mostly, yes I know its one of the most hated things to build in a kit but once you get this truck together you'll be plenty proud of your work. The only problem I had so far is the front bulkhead or whatever the front skid is screw to, I had 2 screw fall out because of the lack of threading. I just put in some self tapping screws that are a little bigger so it would hold. Other than that the graphite parts have yet to break for me. :)

[Shady]

for the turnbuckels get a lundsford punidher wrench and a duratrax ball cup holder....with those it makes it quick and easy to put them on and if you ever break them or when you replace them it is simple to pull them off and put new ones on with those tools

[Keemos]

I have the Duratrax ballcup holder and it works great. Just make sure that you get the one made for Losi.

[ApriliaRacer]

Thanks for the help guys!!!!

The truck is together and is awaiting electronics installation and a painted body.

I've been looking at the body and did a quick search on the internet for bodies that are designed for the XXXT and only came up with two, a Proline GMC Sierra body and a Dahm's slammer body.

Are there any other bodies designed for the XXXT?


Are there any bodies that "fit" the XXXT but are not specifically designed for the XXXT?

No matter what, I'm planning on getting a body done tonight so I can take my XXXT out tomorrow.....

[jarrodb]

i have the proline gmc serries too heres a picture of it

it was my first paint job and i think i did pretty good:) http://www.******.net/media/Picture_115.jpg


ps: should i get dean plugs?

[Canucksk]

I just took my LOSI XXX-NT out for a bashing run to test my new 6061-T6 front skid plates. They are top notch and work great. Much better than the stock skid !

RCSKIDZ (http://www.rcstop.com/rcskidz)
http://www.rcstop.com/rcskidz/plateonlosi.gif

[Casper]

ApriliaRacer-- Racers edge makes a great tool for ball cups also. You can get one of ebay for about $10. Also You can get the punisher tool for about $2.00. With those tools you can get ball cups on in a snap. Much easier. As for other tools. Get a good set of tools for working on your car. MIP/thorp, Hudy, Team Losi, Team Associate, and trinity all make GREAT tools. They are a little pricy but these tools all have ground tool steel tips that will not strip. You will need 3/32 and 1/16 for most applications but will also need 5/64 (2mm) .050 and 2.5mm for this car. You may also want to invest in a 11/32, 3/8, 1/4 and 3/16 nut drivers. As for stripping out screws. As long as you do not tighted too much you the screws should stay put. Also if you do strip a screw most holes will accept the next longer screw size.

[jkerr0043]

OK guy's. The new local track just opened and it's small and tight. Way too tight to be running much for a modified until the dirt gets run in well. I've been running Monster stocks on road so long, I don't know what to put in my truck for bottom end torque. I was thinking an Orion Core. What are you guys running for torquey (is that a word?) motors? I could just dump a 12x2 in it but if I want to run stock, I'm kind of screwed. I'm flying down the one straight but I can't clear the easiest of doubles.

[Casper]

The Core is a GREAT motor. You might want to try a P2k2 also aso that will have more bottom end grunt then a monster stock.

[jarrodb]

do they sell aluminum arms and towers? cause i need those real bad and if i do where can iget them?


also are proline road hawgs good tires for street?

thanks, jarrod

[jkerr0043]

Thanks. I've been running on road for so long I've gotta get re aquainted with the little things of off road racing again.

[Casper]

jarrodb-- I have seen alum towers and arms but I cannot remember who was making them. It was a small company that made them. I cannot understand why you need them though. They just add TONS of weight

Road hogs are decent road tires.

[wolfboy117]

hey everyone! I keep on coming back to these chatrooms keep checkin up on them alot, and than i forget about them, and later find myself back at em. Im one of the few guys that bought that XXX-T Spec to save on money...which is still an issue. Im getting close to habe it finished, and im so excited. So far I have trinity 3300 Sanyo batteries, and LRP esc can remeber which one, kinda suprised about that fill u guys in on it later. I also have a cheap traxxas sting 20 turn motor which i got off a friend for 7$, i dont even plan on using it though. Im planning on getting a D-5 10 turn double motor, and a MRC Super Brain 959 charger. Though, and here is the whole purpose of this post, I have absoloutley no idea wat radio to get, I looked at the hitec lynx fm the cheap 70$ one, than my friend told me to go for the agressor 3 fm because its newer and most likely more reliable. Than I went to a hobby shop and a guy showed me a Futaba radio, around 135$, FM sry dont know exactly wat it is, but thats to much money, now im thinking about getting the Futaba 2PEKA FM raido, i think they might give me a discount at the hobby shop if they keep one of ther servos. Im sorry i have written so much, im gonna be banned or something for talking to much lol. So i would just like so good advice on a radio.... Thanks Everyone!

[Casper]

You might want to look into getting a Airtronics MX3. It as 5 model memory and digital trims. You can get it with or without servos. With servos you can get one for $114 at Ultimate hobbies and without servos you can get one for $84.95 I believe. This is a great radio that will allow you to grow with the hobby. This is an FM radio and the best deal out there IMO.

Ultimate hobbies. (714) 921-0424

[wolfboy117]

Sounds Good, I'll check it out. I was and still am a bit worried about getting a digital radio, because I dont wont to get my first radio and be beyond frustrated with it because i cant figure it out, though i would also like to get one because its always good to get good equipment first and I guess u can get trims and such alot more precise. Thanks for the help!

[Casper]

Don't be too afraid of a digital radio. They are very easy to use. If all you use are the trims it will be just like an anolog radio. The rest of the features you can play with when you get more comfortable with the car and the radio.

[wolfboy117]

k thanks, ok im trying to come up with a design for my car body, do u think maybe u guys could post pics of ur cars to help me out and just to see wat u guys drive. D5 10 turn double...good choice?

[Casper]

A ten turn is a lot of motor. You will not get a lot of run time but it will be fast.

[wolfboy117]

lol, i have trinity sanyo 3300, so how much run time would i get, estamite, because if im only gonna get like 2 min i might get a dif motor so that maybe i could get 4 min, just some thoughts, thanks for all the advice casper!:D

[BigBadTahoe]

I'd think you would get about 5-8min with a 3300 as long as your not on full-throttle too much. 10t motors are a little lower than what is usually run in an XXX-t stadium truck, buy not be much at all.

[wolfboy117]

thats a good run time. do u mean lower as in turns? they usually run 11-12 maybe even 13 turns in the races?

[Casper]

You will get 6-10 with 3300 but again like DubDucedDurango said it really depends on the conditions and how long you have full throttle. Most racers use 11-13 turn motors most of the time in trucks. You can run 10's but this is usually more then needed. The lower the turn the more maintaince that is required due to higher RPM's ie. brushes and comm wear out faster. Just things to consider. Think about run time vs. wear/maintance vs. speed.

[wolfboy117]

i would have like to get an 11 turn D5 but 10 is af far as it goes, my friend said that the D5, D4 and P-94 and other trinity motors with the "bug comms i think" take less maintnance, i was originally looking at orion mod and peak mods but he said go trinity, because they are less maintnace. I really dont think i can put out the money for a comm lathe... i need advice! haha thanks everyone!

[ApriliaRacer]

I finally got an opportunity to run my XXXT MF. What a blast. Been years since I ran an RC Car. Only confused left with right once.

After I got done running it and got it home, I was cleaning it up and turned one rear wheel to check the diff. The diff which felt buttery smooth before I ran it was now kinda "rough" still turned without hesitation, but it was a but "gritty" feeling. Is this normal?

I followed the directions and adjusted my diff and slipper after a couple of runs.

[jarrodb]

yea it is , well thats hat i think cuzz that happens to me

[Casper]

No that is not supposed to be normal. A well built and adjusted diff should last more then 40+ runs. The diff must have been allowed to slip. This is the leading cause of a gritty diff. If you race under very dusty or dirt conditions dirt can cause this problem also but it usually happens sooner if the diff slips. Get a new thrust bearing and flip the diff rings when you rebuild the diff and make sure it does not slip before the slipper does. You can check this by holding the left side tire and the spur gear at the same time and then try and rotate the right side tire. You should be able to see the slipper move before the diff slips. If the right side tire rotates and the slipper does not move you need to loosen the slipper or tighten the diff.

[ApriliaRacer]

Thanks for the help guys.

I forgot to mention that I did run the truck only once or one pack and checked the diff at that time. Just like Casper's directions I checked the diff which was loose. I tightend it up some and loosened the slipper clutch a little.

I have an old Traxxas Nitro Hawk laying around the house. Its old and has been sitting. The diff has well over 40 hours on it yet it is still buttery smooth.

So, I'll be taking it a part.

One last question regarding the thrust bearings. I saw this auction on ebay for a special thrust bearing. The bearings are already in the disc thingy and the outside "housings" have a track for the bearing to run in. Any thoughts on this unit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3140496199&category=2565

Thanks again for your help!

[Casper]

That is a better thrust bearing design then what losi uses. Actaully losi used to use this type of thrust bearing about 5-7 years ago. Traxxas sells this thrust bearing also. These are a little more money but IMO worth it in the long run as building diffs can be a chore.

[jarrodb]

how do u tighen ur diff cuzz ive ran my car more then 100 runs and ive never tighened it:)

[BigBadTahoe]

Follow the directions in your manual where it says to put an L wrench through the right outdrive I think and then turn the other outdrive clockwise. I am pretty sure but check your manual so its perfectly tight.;)

[Gutter Ball]

You mean left outdrive (or right when you are looking at the front of the truck). Wow, after 100 runs I would take the whole tranny apart and clean it up! :cool:

[wolfboy117]

ok i live on a farm, so ive got some property not alot but alot more than my friends, i have 13 acres, about half being woods..anywas my friend and i went out to my one huge field that wasnt being used and mowed and oval and a liitle strait for speed, he started to run it and i quickly when back to my house because i forgot something, when i came back the car was having some serious issues, it sounded normal the the cvd's were moving really slowy alot slower than they should have been moving for how much the trigger was pulled and it would not move for the life of it.. wat could be the problem? Im planning on getting a orion 11turn double mod good choice? how often would i have to cut the comm and change the brushes, my friend runs a francis, with a p-94 10 turn double if that helps...thanks everyone

[jarrodb]

wait about 2 weeks ago i did take my tranny apart and got to understand it and i also cleaned it so thats ok any way so the outdrive is the thing that comes out the tranny and u put the dog bones i think its called inside the out drive am i correct?(i lost my manuel:) ) is that y i dont get wheelies?


hey wolf boy i had the same problem like it just went incredibly slooww but i checked the settings on my controller and it worked perfectly o yea i adjusted the throttle trim i think its called :confused:

[wolfboy117]

ok i'll check that out, thanks jarrod!

[Casper]

wolfboy117-- You problem is either diff or slipper related. I would check both of those. Is the motor reving out or does the motor turn slow like the wheels? If the motor is reving out and the wheels are not turing check the pinion, the slipper and the diff.

the Orion mod motors are great! To keep them at top performance you will want to cut and replace brushes about ever 6 runs. For play time you can probably get away with 15 or so runs but performance will taper off quite a bit at this range. It will be up to you. A 11 turn is a very fast motor.

[wolfboy117]

ok good than i will get an orion motor, i plan pn racing but for a while im just gonna bash around...i will invest in a comm lathe but it might take me a while to get one as they arent cheap....im building a dirt track in my backyard and my friend and i will race back there when he gets his car working, and mine has all its parts, he runs a 10 turn double p-94 maybe i should get a 10 turn double orion? alot of the pros run 10x2 i just looked earlier today...so u have to cut both the comm and the brushes? can u do both those things with a comm lathe or is it two diff tools?

and yes on my friends car the motor was reving alot but the wheels were spinning really slowly when u held it in the air, the wheels wouldnt even move on the ground

[Toiffel]

When the diff gear melts, is it because it was too tight or too loose??
Thanks

[Casper]

Another thing is the wheel pin. Take the wheels off and look a the rims and make sure there is a drive pin in the axle. Diffs melt when they are too loose. As far as motors go. There is not a huge difference between the 10 and 11. I am not sure you will notice and it depends on the traction you have. The looser the dirt the more wheel spin you will get. As far as cutting the comm you will want to REPLACE the brushes. There are reserrating tools out there (a separate tool that is not part of a lathe) but this is used more for stock brushes then mod bushes. As long as the brushes do not wear too far down and do not get discolored you can use a comm stick (about $4.00) to clean the brush or use a reserrating tool (about $30) to make the brushes "fresh" again but almost EVERYONE I know replaces brushes on mod motors everytime they cut the comm.

[wolfboy117]

ok thanks, so which should i got with 11 or 10, i think i might go with a 10x2 a lot of peopel use that...

[Casper]

That is up to you. There will not be a huge difference between the two.

[Toiffel]

I'm having a little of trouble here, i have RPM ball cups, they have seen some use, but lately it seems they just dont want anything to do with the ball studs, in the middle of a race, after a jump or a light hit, the front or rear ball cups just pop out!!! Do these parts need to be replaced after a while??

[jkerr0043]

Any ball cup is going to nee replacing on an off road car from time to time. The more times they come off (or are taken off) the sooner they'll need to be raplced. Back in the day, we would rplace them if you even had to take it off once. But they were pretty crappy back then.

[derekjr_1]

jkerr0043 Is right about parts needing replacing after some much use, but RPM balls cups suck. I am not bashing RPM cause they make great products but go with the LOSI ballcups. I had to learn the hard way. I used to have the exact same problem and then switched back to losi ballcups and the problem was gone.

Try that and you should have no probs.

[jkerr0043]

Actually I've had the opposite experiance. I've been using RPM cups for a coulple of years and never had a problem with them coming off. The thing I didn't like about the Losi cups is when they're brand new, they're really tight and cause binding on the studs. RPM cups don't have that problem yet, in my experiance, don't have the problem of popping of either. I don't even use the stock cups anymore when I'm building a new car. I just get the RPMs and build it with them from the start.

[Lapster]

Where is the cheapest place to get a xxxt mf? I am leaning towards a T4... but if I can find a xxxt cheap enough ill get that.

[ApriliaRacer]

I bought a xxx-t MFE about a month ago. Searching through the internet and comparing prices with my LHS, I found the price to be exactly the same, 249.99. No less, no more.....

So, I bought my stuff from the LHS.

[Lapster]

Actually I did find a place that sells them for 225. Online. And it is the MFE. www.jerryshobbycenter.com They even have xxx4's for 230. Dont know shipping though... they r in New Jersey I believe. So.... sweet!

[t1000driver]

Yo, does any one want a Sorta new XXX-T, Because I'm selling mine For $375-450?It has a Reedy Quasar Charger, Dynamite 3000mAh Battery, And a whole lotta other stuff with it, a Real Bargain!Thanks.

[jarrodb]

dude ur never going to sell that if we dont know ur hop ups like what motor and esc and stuff?

[t1000driver]

It is completely stock, except for the motor, and the pinion gear. The motor is a Peak Performance Jaguar 27x1, and the pinion gear is a 22 tooth. The Esc, and the radio are stock. It comes with 3 cans of motor cleaner, 2 extra pinion gears (20, 23 tooth), manuals(except for charger), Dyna-fun 3000mAh NiMH battery, comm drops, wrenches, free tool set, extra cords, and price has dropped to $325-400.Can be negotiated.(to a point):D

[iceracer6x]

Is the MFE gunna be better than the T4, im in a bind one which one to buy. so any help will do. i will be racing this truck if that helps.

thanks tony

[Casper]

The T4 will be a very good truck. The T3 was a very good truck. I think there will be some revisions to T4 parts soon. I have seen some front towers breaking and little things like that. The T4 is a fast truck but still think the XXX-T is better. AE got the geometry down now but there shocks still suck.

[Casper]

Originally posted by Lapster
Where is the cheapest place to get a xxxt mf? I am leaning towards a T4... but if I can find a xxxt cheap enough ill get that.

Ultimate Hobbies has them for $209.95. 714-921-0424 or go to www.ultimatehobbies.com

[Casey]

In case you haven't seen it yet.......

[Casey]

and the limited info........

[wolfboy117]

thats from rc car action, which i have a subscription to but the new issues the october one has yet to come to my house, and my friend got it like a week ago... i got a new xtreme rc from barnes and nobles though and they have a pic of what appears to be a losi monster truck...all the team losi guys where messing around with these mystery trucks..i think by christmas a slew of new rc car stuff will be released.....SWEET!

[jarrodb]

I WANA GET 1 :)

K I HAVE A QUESTION I AM GOING TO GET ABOUT 300 DOLLORS BY THE END OF THIS YEAR MAYBE MORE MONEY BUT ILL START MY PREDICTION AT 300 OK I WANT TO KNOW IF I SHOULD BUY A PEDE AND SELL MY XXX-T OR GO NOVAK BRUSHLESS WITH THE XXX-T AND WHAT OTHER HOP UPS SHOULD I BUY? PLEZZ RESPOND TO MY POST THNAKS



JARROD,

[jkerr0043]

Anyone running a Novak brushless in their XXXT? I'm thinking about it and am interested in your opinions.

[mr_dove]

The losi parts list for my xxx-t rtr says that both pairs of front turnbuckles are 2 1/4" . It specifically lists as parts

four 2 1/4" (front)
two 2 1/2" (rear)

I'm confused because the lunsford xxx-t ti turnbuckle kits include:

Two 57mm (2.25") Turnbuckles
Two 63.5mm (2.50") Turnbuckles
Two 73mm (2.87") Turnbuckles

can anyone confirm the lengths of the xxx-t turnbuckles?

lunsford turnbuckles can be purchased in pairs as well as sets of 6. What size would be best for my xxx-t?

[mr_dove]

I know that many people frown on the use of aluminum parts for some reason. I have not yet decided if I will upgrade some of my parts will aluminum.

Nevertheless, dynamite has begun producing a good looking set of aluminum xxx-t parts that I have found on horizon hobbies and stormer racing.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/dyn7300.jpg

[jkerr0043]

The biggest reasons people don't like aluminum are weight, they bend slightly without being noticed, weight, weight, and more weight. Also if they don't bend, all they do is transfer the shock to another plastic part it's connected to, usually the chassis and a chassis is more expensive to replace than an arm.

[wolfboy117]

those aluminum parts look exactly like the ones made by rc trix(or w.e the company is) for the xxx-t and the xxx-nt, very odd

[jarrodb]

i wana make a monster truck xxx-t:)

can sum one give me sum stuff on how to?

u know like maxx tires and stuff:D

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ya...
i am sure that 5 cell batt holder will be usefull with the XXXT :rolleyes:

[xxxt_dwn-undr]

HI just wondering, what is the main difference between the xxxt spec and the xxxt mfe? Is is just the shocks, graphite and the red bits?

OH and i am getting a xxxt spec (its in the mail and should have it by monday) just wanted to ask a few questions.

1.What are the tires like?
2.I know he mfe is allot better than the spec but the spec is still a great kit right for racing??
3.Is this a good setup,

MX-3
Novak XXL reciever
2400mah sanyo cells
standard 540 motor for a little while for rookie class
LRP IPC Sport digital esc

4.I wil move up to stock class very soon once i have gotten used to the track, what is best stock motor around?

[Casper]

xxxt_dwn-undr-- Yes the difference between the spec and the MF kits is just hop up parts. Other then materials and colors the trucks are identical. The spec trucks tires suck pretty bad. They work alright but boy do they STINK!!!!!!!! (smell that is) Get a set of tires that work at your local track and mount those up to the rims they give you in the box. Use the blue tires for playing on the street or something. More then likely they will not be the hot ticket for racing. As for you setup if you do not need an extra reciever do not bother with the XXL reciever. There is nothing wrong with the airtronics receiver and if anything it will work better then the novak receiver. Space is not a issue with on the XXX chassis. Use that money to get a better speedo. With that extra 50-60 bucks you were going to spend on the receiver you could easily get a LRP competition pro, GT7 or a Keyence Zero Speedo that will be smoother and allow you to run lower turn mods one day. As for the stock motor unless it is required to run a mabuchi motor in novice just get a regular stocker to start with. If it is too fast you can turn down the throttle on the radio to tame the motor and this way you will not be stuck with the mabuchi motor. As for good stock motors. I personally would stay away from the monster stock motor for truck racing. I would go with an Orion Core stock, Peak Hellfire or a P2K2. Hope this helps.

[xxxt_dwn-undr]

Thnx Casper,
well i actually have a Hyper 7 pro so i do need the extra receiver, are all four of the blue tires crap or just the rear ones?
For the esc im buying it of ov a friend brand new at less than half the price to save some money. Why would you stay away from the monster stock for racing?
thanks again!



xxxt_dwn-undr

[Casper]

I would stay away from the Monster stock for TRUCK racing. IT is a high RPM motor. I think you would have more luck with a motor that produces a little more torque. The front tires are losi directional tires in blue compound. The would work well for loose dirt conditions but that would be about it. You can try them but like I said before there is probably a better tire for you track conditions. I have never seen someone run spec tire because they were the hot ticket!:eek:

[xxxt_dwn-undr]

Do you ave any pics of your car? if so can you post them plz
So im going to get new tries and in a while upgrade to mfe parts everynow and then.
Oh 1 question is the truck much lighter than the spec with all that graphite?







xxxt_dwn-undr

[Casper]

Not a lot. The truck will be much stiffer though. This allows the suspension work better.

[wolfboy117]

Hey i just tried to send a pic of my xxx-t spec but it said the image was to big i shrunk it prety small and even made it a jpeg.. i know there are other ways to make it smaller, i just dont know what they are:D can anyone help?

[xxxt_dwn-undr]

i use photoshop, you could send it in an email!

[wolfboy117]

whats ur e-mail adress? mine is metalwolf117@aol.com

[xxxt_dwn-undr]

mine is rc_oz@iinet.net.au

[minijosh]

http:// www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOSB0200
has anyone seen one of these?

[xxxt_dwn-undr]

i have, and here arer some more pics.

http://www.teamlosi.com/kits/mini-T.htm







xxxt_DWN-UNDR

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hi guys,
i am getting a XXX, (and i am asking here since no one talks in the XXX Thread) it should be here on wednesday,
I was wondering,
which spur gear should i get?
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/48pitchspur.html#abs
absolute, stealth or super machined?

and what pinion is better? absolute or nickle coated?

Thank you for the help

[Casper]

I would get the standard losi 82 tooth spur gear or wait until Losi comes out with there Kevlar gears! As far as pinons go I would stay away from the alum ones. Yes they are lighter but they wear out faster and make a lot of noise and noise is power lost though friction. Get a good set of steel pinions and they will last you years.

[jarrodb]

hey guys !!!! it was just my birthday last friday and i got some serious dough and i wana buy a novak brushless ss for my xxx-t i also bought some titanium turnbuckles are these worth it? and i also bought that bumper is that worth it? and i also wanted to get a speed estimate on the novak ss like how many mph will it go on 7 cell and 6 cell . and what is good gearing for my car?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I meant those absolute gears and stuff.
I want to make the car as quite as possible.
Let me know

[Casper]

I would get the absolute pinon gears. I do not have experience with the spur gears though. I have had good luck with the losi gears so I have just stuck with those.

[jarrodb]

ive had good luck with losi gears also:)

[GT Freak]

Are losi gears JUST for losi cars,or do any pinions work :confused: im wondering because i have 3 losi cars and not sure what type pinion to use
:confused:

[jkerr0043]

other than material (steel, ti., aluminum) and pitch, (32,48,64) a pinion is a pinion. they should all work. Now Losi spur gears are only for Losi cars

[Casper]

Most losi cars have 48 pitch gears (all of them come stock this way but they make 64 pitch gears for these cars which will require 64 pitch pinions and there is "BK" pitch which is about a 54 pitch gear from trinity which again require BK pitch pinions). Any 48 pitch pinion will work with this car assuming you are using the stock spur gears. As far as spur gears go you need to get a spur gear that is specifically for a Losi car as it needs to be able to hold the slipper pads. There are many different company's that make gears for losi cars but I prefer the losi ones over the after market gears. I hope this helps.

[GT Freak]

Ty very much, exactly what i was looking for :cool:

[t1000driver]

For any who are interested in the aluminum craze sorta thing, this is for you. In the new magazine, October, there is a page in where Tier 1 Motorsports is designing a whole aluminum suspension kit for the XXX-T, and it looks to me that the front skidplate will fit it.:D My e-mail is t1000driver@msn.com

[GT Freak]

sounds like a cool idea

wonder if it would work on my XXT:confused:

[GT Freak]

sitting here wondering if anyone has a setup sheet i could see to set up my XXTGP for offroad :confused:

[Casper]

I would try some of these setups from the Losi web site.

http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/xxtcr/index.htm

[GT Freak]

THANK u, just what i was looking for

[jkerr0043]

Here's my latest body with the name stickers that SkipGear did for me. I think they look awesome. Thanks.

[jkerr0043]

Double post

[jkerr0043]

triple post. don't know how that happened

[GT Freak]

nice ride you got, like that paint job :cool:

[jkerr0043]

Thanks. That's my usual scheme I do for all my touring cars. First time I've put it on the truck though. I put a Novak brushless in it last week. What a joy. Tons of bottom end, more top end than I needed for the small track and I didn't once have to break out the motor spray :)

[GT Freak]

ive heard that this truck s dicontinued..... wonder why? im wanting one ( if its as good as my XXT) :D

[jkerr0043]

No- the standard XXXT hasen't been made for awhile. The only kit you can get is the Matt Francis Edition. And unless they plan to do something like they just did with the BK2 buggy, I don't think they'll be discontinuing this truck any time soon. And yes, this truck is better than your XXT. The XXT was a steping stone to the current design.

[GT Freak]

other then the chassis, wheels and shocktowers, it loks the same tome, could someone point me to a review or something that would make want to get rid of my 2 XXT's:(regular and a CRGP version) in favor of this truck :confused:

[Gutter Ball]

If you're doing well with a XX-T, stick with it. I only switched to a MFE because the LHS was having trouble getting parts for a XX-T. You'll probably have to switch over too once the parts supply dries up. Since the XXX got an "upgrade", there might be a similar upgrade for the XXX-T.

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
If you're doing well with a XX-T, stick with it. I only switched to a MFE because the LHS was having trouble getting parts for a XX-T. You'll probably have to switch over too once the parts supply dries up. Since the XXX got an "upgrade", there might be a similar upgrade for the XXX-T.

I agree, if you can still get parts and are having sucess, stick with it. If you start to fall off and want to get something new, I'd wait a little while because of the possible upgrade coming. Usually when a "NEW" buggy comes out, a truck follows.

[GT Freak]

found a awsome place to get the wheels im needing heres a link to them:




http://h1070978.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?display=pictures&strProd=&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=CPT&strInManufacturer=LOS&PageNum=2&strSortBy=ProdNumAsc:)

[jarrodb]

yo i just ordered sum stuff to tuffin up my xxx-t and heres what i bought a rpm wide bumper and titanium blue turn buckles:D

and sum dirt hawgs:eek: also i purchased a magnetic meyhem just to bash around with so i wont have to where my speed gem pro 14x2 motor dwn


question" y is it so hard to fit a 7 cell in the xxx-t?

[wolfboy117]

is it hard to fit 7 cells in a car? i guess i can see it hard to fit a 7 cell sport pack, but if u made a 7 cell side by side back than u shouldnt have any space problems at all...

[Casper]

GT freak-- You can run the XXX-T rims on your XX-T. The spacing for the rims did not change. They just made them in a velocity style and got rid of the lexan inserts. Just to let you know that rims should not be a limiting factor in running the XX-T

[GT Freak]

ok cool, didnt know if they would work or not, thanks for the info :)

[xxx-Thunder]

Hi i was wondering if there is any weak points of the team losi Triple-xt RTR. What do u think i should upgrade first? Thanks a lot.
Bare with me, im new, thanks.

[losixxx213]

The only thing I don't like(nothing wrong at all with this)is that the molded pieces say rtr on them, but it's an awesome st truck.

[xxx-Thunder]

haha, i meant the functionality of the truck. The only thing i dont know about is that see-through gear cover... is that thing very sturdy? Thanks

[GT Freak]

i havent ran a gear cover for a while, no probs yet! :)

[Casper]

RPM makes a gear cover that will outlast the truck. It is only $6-7

[xxx-Thunder]

i know about the rpm gear cover, but my question hasnt been answered... Is the stock cover nice or is it junk? thanks

[jkerr0043]

It's junk. The first time you get hit from behind, it'll break. I had the RPM one after one run.

[xxx-Thunder]

Thanks a bunch man, just ordered the gear cover from towerhobbies.

[xxx-Thunder]

Hi guys, i got another question. What motor should i use for a really really tight track? My team losi xxx-t should be coming in a few days. I will be racing my friend at the track we made in his back yard. Its a real tight track with a lot of turns, like 1 not-so-long straight-away and quite a few jumps. I really want a motor that i wont have to rebuild because i dont plan on buying a comm lathe or any of that junk. I was thinking something along the lines of a p2k copperhead or a p2k2 or one of those orion core motors. Please send me in the right direction. Thanks

[Casper]

The three motors you mentioned would be what I would suggest. You will be happy with any of them. Run the stock brushes with those motors. If you do replace the brushes get the harder brushes for them since you do not want to do the maintaince.

[Railman]

The P2K would run the coolest, & be the most durable. It's a great truck motor, with the most torque of the 3. The other two have more top end.
Joe

[RCGuru1]

Yes I agree the p2k copperhead would be your best choice but you'll eventually have to replace the brushes in any motor unless you buy a throw away motor. Most hobby shops will cut your comm for you for a small fee.

[xxx-Thunder]

ok, p2k it is. Should i get the copperhead or the copperhead pro? Also, how much faster would the truck go with the p2k and stock gearing over the RTR? I want a good mix of torque and speed so what gearing would u suggest? thanks guys for the help

[jkerr0043]

Don't bother with the pro for what you're doing. All they do is cut the comm and tune it a little. Once you've run it a couple of times, the the work they've done will be pretty much gone. Save the few bucks and buy a couple of sets of brushes. You will need them.

[xxx-Thunder]

how much faster you think? thanks

[jkerr0043]

Can't say. I've never run an RTR. I always only buy kits. That a whole other discussion. :) I can say you'll probably be very happy with the speed. I know a lot of RTRs come with a 19 turn motors but they're usually sleds. P2k's are a race motor so you should be satisfied.

[xxx-Thunder]

How do you guys think a stock RTR XXX-T would compare to a stock RTR Traxxas Rustler on the track? Ill be racing my friend who has a rustler. Thanks.

[RCGuru1]

It depends on the driver but the XXXT handles better than any stadium truck I've ever run and I've ran about all of them.

[xxx-Thunder]

but do u think the rtr has the speed/acceleration to back up the handling? thanks

[jpel200]

xxx-thunder.... you are buying something that out of the box should stomp the rustler.. IMO. But you still have to learn alot about set ups and tires and such..... dirt conditions and the like.... alot of people here can get you close, but then none of us know what the dirt is like or anything. I bought an rtr xxxt... and I loved it.... once that 19 turn motor was replaced, I could compete with almost anyone in stock class (my driving just needs to be improved on, LOL)
The spur that comes with the rtr is an 86 I think, so I would try a 15 or 16 pinion. That should get you close. Loose dirt, try Tbone tires or Gladiators..... hard packed dirt try the proline hole shots. They work great..... those are rear tires.... on the fronts, from what I have seen, 8 ribs and some sort of blade tire are almost all you'll ever need. But then, I am not that great.... many more people here know more than I.... I am just trying to get you to a set up quickly that will work. LOL.... If you are going to just backyard bash though... a Losi or even Associated are pretty precise vehicles that you will have to maintain quite a bit to keep in good shape. Again, just my opinion. Find a local hobby shop and try racing, you'll be amazed at how much fun you will have!

John Pelfrey

[Railman]

I would start with 19 x 86 with a p2k on a short track. On a big track, 20 x 86 would be better. Either will run fairly cool, with good performance. P2k's run best when geared one to two teeth taller than the p2k2, or Orion Core, and at least three teeth taller than a Monster.
Joe

[Casper]

I would start with the 19.

[xxx-Thunder]

Thanks guys, ill try a p2k with 19/86 to start.

[losixxx213]

has anyone tried using taper pins or t-2000 on the front instead of the ribs? I'm asking b/c my local track is hard packed and doesn't have a lot of steering on the truck with the ribs(but it has too much on my buggy with ribs,weird). I wondering how much more steering these would offer?

[Casper]

I have run tapers on the front but only on high bite tracks (ie. blue goove). You do this to take away steering. Treaded tires take away turn in and make the steering smoother. It usually does not give you more steering though.

[xxx-Thunder]

Hey guys, i got a question. What are the sizes of the hex wrenches needed to wrench on the triple-xt? Also, are they standard or metric? I plan on getting some Hudy hex drivers and at this cost, i dont want to get the wrong ones!! Thanks

[Casper]

3/32 and 1/16th are the most commonly used wrenches. You will also benefit from .050 and the 5/64th although the 5/64th is only used in one spot on the XXXT and that is for the tranny screw. The motor screws use 2.5mm so you migh want one of those also. the 5/64th is used for Titanium ball studs also if you end up running those and it is used for the motor mounting screws on the NT and the front axles on the XXX if you have or get one of those. Those all all the wrenches you will use on any losi car though. I have some old robinson pinions that use a 1.5mm but that is the only place I use that wrench so you should not need one.

[xxxsTeve]

I run a P2K Pro. It is a stock motor so any ESC can handle it and it hauls for a stock motor. And it's cheap $27.99 at tower hobbies.

[FLxxxT]

Hey guys Im new to the St. Truck scene as well...and was wondering what aluminum upgrades I can get for my XXXt MFE.

My local track is pretty small...real tight course, and I have 2 motors...a Trinity speed gem 13x2 and a stock P2k2 Pro. I have not tried the P2k2 yet on the track..but my question is ...do you think the 13x2 is too fast for a small-slick track ? What gearing should I go for ?


Thanks

"D"

[Casper]

There are a lot of alum parts for the truck. The only ones I would run though are the rear pivot block and the alum front pibot block.

A 13X2 would not be too fast for any track. It is a good truck wind. I would start by gearing it at 18/86.

[madmudder]

I have a xxx-t rtr and was wondering if anyone has a setup for an indoor dirt oval.

[FLxxxT]

Originally posted by Casper
There are a lot of alum parts for the truck. The only ones I would run though are the rear pivot block and the alum front pibot block.

A 13X2 would not be too fast for any track. It is a good truck wind. I would start by gearing it at 18/86.

And where might I find these pivot blocks ?


Thanks