Team Losi XXXT Forum v2.0

[Casper]

They are made by trinity. You can find them at most hobby shops or stormerhobbies.com or horizonhobby.com

[t1000driver]

I'd go easy on the aluminum if you run titanium hinge pins. Those two certain metals have a tendency to "cold weld" together when in extended contact with each other, that causes binding, which, overall reduces, significantly, the performance of the truck.

[teamlosiisback]

remember if you go racing alot of the big races, they check the weight on your cars. so if you get to light then you are going to have to remove that

[Casper]

teamlosiisback-- Huh? The alum parts are all heavier then the plastic parts. It is actually hard to get the car under weight. You would need to remove material from existing parts to accomplish this. Adding alum will make the car heavier. Titanium is denser then alum so it is even worse.

[t1000driver]

That's true, titanium is denser, but it is also approximately 2-3 times stronger than your average T6-6061 aluminum parts. It also weighs your car down by maybe 75-100 grams, if you go all out on aluminum. The bad thing about aluminum is that you cannot see where, or if, it bends in a hard gront end collision. That's why I am sticking with graphite, titanium, and some aluminum parts, and also tungsten-carbide diff balls.


I forgot to mention this in my last post, but I need a really FAST motor for my XXX-T, tell me a fast one, please (for some racing, and drag racing) price is not an issue.Thanks!:)

[losixxx213]

get the new revoution mod by team orion, if you want an insanely fast one, go with a 10 turn double.

[Tim'sLosi]

Hi guys, I just bought a XXX-T for my 4 yr old son...sick of him breaking the Tyco junk! It comes with a P2K2 Pro, I want to get him an ESC that will last and have reverse. What would you recommend? Also, what should I stock in his pitbox? Are there weak areas (other than the gear cover)??
Thanks alot! Tim

[losixxx213]

Stock up on some a-arms and as for an esc you can go a few different ways, I'd recomend the lrp f1 reverse esc(16 turn motor limit). If you want the ability to go as low as possible, get the lrp fi pro reverse(no motor limit). Or you can always check out the novak rooster(15 turn limit) or the super rooster(no limit). All 4 of those have reverse lock out if you ever want to race and all 4 are great esc's.

[Casper]

You might also want to check out the Keyence A07R. It is only $99 at www.ultimatehobbies.com an it has reverse is small so it will fit anywhere and has a 7 turn motor limit. A great choice if reverse is important to you.

[t1000driver]

Try the models (ESCs) made by GM Rcaing. They have a V3R, V4R, and a V6R. Each has their own motor limit, but get better as the number goes up V"6"R, the "R" means reverse. Go to this link to find more about these ESCs, http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=&strSearchType=All&strInManufacturer=GMM[/URL], or you can get the Mtroniks ESCs, which are fully waterproof.

[t1000driver]

Thanks for the tips for an insanely fast motor, I'll be sure to check it out! (sorry 'bout the double post)

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, I don't know what to do. My XXX-T is being OWNED by a T4....huge!! Amazing how much difference a truck can make. I was beating this guy when he raced a T3...he bought a T4 about a month ago and now I can't touch him. The T4 gets through our tight track with ease, whereas I need to use brakes to get through the same areas. It appears I don't have enough on or off-power steering.

I'm using the standard set-up for shock locations. I'm running red springs up front, pinks in the rear, stock pistons, 30 weight oil all around. I have limiters in the shocks because I thought maybe the truck was rolling too much...it helped, but still need brakes. Since I'm the only XXX-T left (lots of T3's and more buggies this year for some reason.....very odd indoor season) I have no one else's brain to pick. Help?

[Casper]

What kind of tires are you running front and rear. We might be able to solve the problem with some tires.

[Gutter Ball]

I'm running Pro-Line Strikers. It's an indoor carpeted track. I read that moving the top of the front shocks out a hole or 2 might help, but I'll wait to see what you guys say :cool:

[Casper]

I wonder if a taper pin or something with a little bit of a rougher tread would bit into the carpet. You front tires may not have enough traction. As for moving the top of the shock out, it will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker. That would be a good place to start. You might want to lengthen your front camber rod also or move the ball stud up. These are what I would do for dirt. Carpet might react a little different.

[Gutter Ball]

Can't, we're not allowed to run off-road tires, we have to run slicks or street-type tires. Hmmm, I don't think I have any washers under my front ball studs....I'll have to check that. Thanks for the tips!

[Casper]

Slick red compound tires would work well. Those proline striker tires are made out of there harder compounds right? Those are XTR (very hard rubber) or possibly M2 but I think those are still made from the XTR compund. If you are allowed to run slicks I would start with the hardest foam you can find and trim inner and outer edges to help round out the tires. (try the proline grey foam or the trinity blue foam) Then mount the tires and using a dremel with the sanding bit carefully shave the tire down. I would start with a red T-2000 or a red taper pin. Grind the pins down and because of the rough sanding surface you will "roughen" the surface of the tires which should help with grip. A softer compound tire should help grip better. This is what I used to do at a clay VERY high bite track where everyone ran slicks. I do not see the striker as the hot ticket for lots of traction. The key to making a good set of slick tires is VERY hard foam. This supports the tire and they work the best this way. This tire will wear out when the foam degrades. I think this is at least worth a try. Use safety glasses when you shave the tires and do it some where you can get dirty. Grinding tires is a dirty process but the good news is you do not need to do it very often. Also take your time and do not try to push down into the tire to sand. Let the dremel do the work. IF you push too hard the sanding bit will grab the rubber and that can tear the tire. It is really not that hard but I want to make you aware of the issues with doing this. Good luck!

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, hard foams with soft tires :) Yes the Strikers were pretty hard when I first got them! Lots of suntan lotion, and they softened up a bit.....I think I may have an old set of M3 bowties I could grind down. I didn't think tires would make that much of a difference on carpet. Thanks again, I'll see what happens this Sunday!

[Casper]

Don't just grind down a set of tire you have with stock foam. The foam will not be hard enough for this type of application. Tires are 80% of a setup. Depending on the conditions. Once you have the right tires you should then adjust from there.

[Tim'sLosi]

Could you guys help me with my son's XXXT? It has a Trinity P2K2 Pro, Duratrax intellispeed esc(down to 12 turn) and I use Panasonic 3000maH NIMH 7.2 v pack. What would a good gear set to use on this truck??? How did you come up with your answer?? Is there a good site to calculate this? I noticed the motor seemed to get hot.

Thanks as always,
TL:cool:

[robert L.]

if the motor is getting hot gear down a tooth or two that should help

[robert L.]

also i just got a xxx-t and what top 5 hop-ups would you guys recommend?

[losixxx213]

Aluminum top shaft, titanium turnbuckles, bearings for the steering, titanium hinge pins, aluminum pivot blocks(everyone will tell ou this b/c they break them, I haven't had any problems with the stock plastic pieces though an my xxxtmfe has taken some hard hits that should have broken 2-3 parts every flip).

[Electricity45]

Aluminum Top-Shaft, Bearings for steering, Titanium Turnbuckles, Titanium Hingepins, Aluminum Pivot Blocks They're the best hop-ups for a car, or truck, in this case. [copied the other reply, practically]

[NoPepsiForYou]

hey guys, long time now see;)

I've got a little problem, whenever I floor it on the carpet the thing makes a really bad RRRRRR noise (slipper clutch noise) I have tightened it all the way down and it still does it. I know its not the gears grinding cause I have messed around with that and looked into it. Anybody have an idea on what could be the problem.

Its a P2k2 motor BTW

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou
hey guys, long time now see;)

I've got a little problem, whenever I floor it on the carpet the thing makes a really bad RRRRRR noise (slipper clutch noise) I have tightened it all the way down and it still does it. I know its not the gears grinding cause I have messed around with that and looked into it. Anybody have an idea on what could be the problem.

Its a P2k2 motor BTW

How old are the slipper disks? That's probably your problem

[robert L.]

alright thanks for the hop-up help:D

[NoPepsiForYou]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
How old are the slipper disks? That's probably your problem

slipper disks are pretty new, i'd say they have about 10 hours on them, I think I might get some new ones anyways since im ordering new stuff from stormer...im just hoping it has nothing to do with my differentials:(

edit - after looking at it, the whole slipper clutch assembly (screw, spring, spur, nut) move...isn't the slipper clutch only supposed to make the spur gear move?

[Electricity45]

It probably is your diff. I had the same problem with mine and figured out the thrust washer, and diff ring was either broken, or shattered.

[NoPepsiForYou]

opened up my gear box and nothing in there, only thing left is the Diffs:mad:

Thanks for your help guys:)

[robert L.]

does anybody know the part number for threaded shock bodies for the xxx-t?

[Keemos]

robert L.- Part#: A-5055 (front) and A-5056 (rear)

[robert L.]

ok thanks:D

[speedydave]

I'm going to be picking up a MF XXXT in about a month(beginning of Feb.), and I need to know what kind of hopups are really needed for the truck. I see the recommended hopups listed a few posts ago, but all of those are included with the MF truck, so...I was pretty much just going to buy some of the black plastic pieces(I really don't like all the red everywhere), and the Trinity shock collars. Other than that, I'm not really sure...How necessary is the aluminum pivot block? I'll mainly be running stock, with some mod occasionally, and I have over 6 years of RC experience(4 of those years I've been racing), so I'm not going to be slamming the truck into pipes all the time. Also, how difficult have you found it to be to fit GP3300's in the truck? I know they're at least a tight fit, but do I need to flatten the battery bars, or will they be fine if I just leave them? Thanks.

[mafiaracer]

By truck and buggy are outfitted with the same things...
-Trinity Blue aluminum screw kit
-Losi Blue ball cups, motor plate, rear motor guard, and front kickup plate
-Trinity front and rear blue aluminum arm mounts
-Losi aluminum universal drive shafts
-Trinity lightened slipper plates
-Losi plastic outdrives
There's no need for anything else aluminum...that would just be adding un-needed weight. I also use very small electronics. Novak XXL FM reciever and MTRONICS M3 ESC's. Both my truck and buggy fully ready to go are just a shade over ROAR legal minimum weight limits so....
YES...flatten those battery bars ina vice or something.
_-------_ -----> ----------

[Casper]

speedydave-- I like to use the Orion bones battery bars. They are a little lower porfile then other high quality batter bars. The Deans 2 work better then the "tall" deans 3 bars also. This might help you have your batteries fit in your truck. The GP cells are long that is for sure.

[speedydave]

Thanks guys! Casper, which Bones do you use? There's a price difference between the coppers, platinums, and golds...do you know if there is any performance/strength difference?

[robert L.]

hey guys ive been readin pro's setups and it seems to be that everyone uses a 86t spur gear, does anyone know why? why dont people use the stock spur gear?

[mafiaracer]

It all depends on the type and technicallity of the track. I race stock and personally like an 88 spur. I also race on a pretty tight track, so I need the low end gearing.

[Casper]

speedydave-- I run the old slidder shaft on my truck. Since I only race Stock these drive shafts are lighter then stock shafts and they do not wear out. The other benefit is that they are only $12 for outdrives and shafts although you need standard losi axles for them also. They have worked great for me. This is much cheaper then running alum bones that snap and composit outdrives the were out fast at $12 a pop with $20 outdrive savers. I have had good luck with the slidders. I have even run them in mod but not much. It is pretty rare when I run mod truck.

86 spur is what comes with the MF. The use of a little smaller spur brings the motor a little closer to the front of the car reducing the polar moment of inertia. You want the wieght of the motor in the back of the car but you do not need to to hang out there so getting it closer to the tranny case is the goal and a small spur helps wit that.

[kvrc]

hey guys.
i want to buy an aluminum rear pivor block. the stock rear toe in is 3 deg. but the trinity ones only come in 2 and 0. for those who have them, how differently does the truck act with a 2 instead of the stock 3 deg. or does somebody else make a 3 deg. one?

[Strike 4]

I have one, however, I got it with my car used so all I can realy say is it handles good. I finaly broke a part:) it was the rear arm but I was waiting on it because it was graphite.

[Casper]

Originally posted by kvrc
hey guys.
i want to buy an aluminum rear pivor block. the stock rear toe in is 3 deg. but the trinity ones only come in 2 and 0. for those who have them, how differently does the truck act with a 2 instead of the stock 3 deg. or does somebody else make a 3 deg. one?

The alum blocks all have 3 deg of toe in. The 0 and 2 deg that are on the lables are anti squat. Stock is 2 deg of antisquat and this can be adjusted with wedge shims losi gives you.

[re-inferno]

Hi!

I wonder if anyone could tell me the length shown in the picture below (inch or mm) It's the cvd bone of a MF-XXXT

http://www.mattas.de/Bilder/CVD.jpg

thanks in advance!
re-inferno

[NickDawg18]

hey guys, what is needed to totally rebuild a differential? i think mine is a lil worn out and needs to be redone but i've never done it before. help me out.

[Casper]

If you turn one of your rear tires and it does not feel smooth but kind of gritty then it is probably time to rebuild the diff. To do this you take it apart opposite of the directions to put it togther and then put all the parts back. You should always replace the thrust bearing and anything else that is worn out. The main diff rings can be flipped if there is a groove on them. The main diff balls should last for a long time so you should not need to replace those for a rebuild. Just follow the instruction from the losi manual and you should be fine. If you do not have assembly instructions go here.

http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/XXXT_MF/Complete.pdf

[robert L.]

hey guys, right now im running a core stock in my truck and i want to go mod.......so would a core mod be good?....anyone have suggestions?

[Casper]

The Core mod motors are great but get a Revolution motor from Orion. They are just as fast or faster and they require about 1/10th the maintance!

[robert L.]

what, the revolutions require less maitenance? and does anyone else have any good suggestions?

[Casper]

Yes the require a lot less. You do not need to cut the comm or replace the brushes for 20-30 runs without loss of power. There are no other motors on the market that can claim that!

[robert L.]

but do the revolutions have enough torque for a truck?

[Casper]

Yeah they have tons of torque. I am running a 10X2 in my truck for the Jimmy Babcock So Cal Series races. It is way fast! They are super efficient also. This motor is like no other you have tried before! They run them in touring cars on tight tracks and long tracks. They just plain rock!

[NickDawg18]

i want to buy one of those revolutions but i have a couple problems. see, my lhs doesnt carry them yet but i see that some online stores have them. But here's the problem, all the online stores require a damn credit card which i dont have. so is there any online stores out there that dont require a credit card?

[Casper]

Check out ebay. You should be able to get one on there and pay with a money order or cashiers check.

[NickDawg18]

cool thanks. now i have another question. i recently just bought a set of trinity aluminum outdrive covers, but they dont stay on at all. how in the hell am i supposed to get them to stay on without moving at all?

[Casper]

I always used a small drop of thread lock on each side of the outdrive to keep the savers in place. The thread lock is a nice low adhesive glue so you can get the savers off when you need to take the bearing off the outdrives to replace the oudrives or the bearings. Just take a allen driver and pop off the saver when you need to get the savers off. This little trick worked well for me.

[NickDawg18]

where can i get some thread lock at? its a friggin haul to a lhs. bout an hour.

[NickDawg18]

man, the freakin xxx-t is goin outta style fast. all thanks to the damn mini-t. they need to come out with the new xxx-t soon.

[robert L.]

hardware stores should have them Home Depot, Lowes.... thats where i got mine

[Casper]

Get the blue stuff not the red for this application. The Red thread lok is glue! :eek: You will be able to get the blue off.

[RC Mania]

Hi, I am planning to use the LMT 5300 BL motor with Schulze 58Ce ESC on my XXXT MFE.

Anyone can recommend the pinion (with the stock 88T spur, I think) that I should be using? Basically I will just running around the field (open grass land). Thanks.

[Casper]

I have no experience with that brushless motor. You should contact the manufacture for a gearing recommendation.

[jpel200]

Hey Casper,

I have been thinking of trying a mod motor. I won't bore you with the questions about gearing, LOL, but I would like some info on how to set my diff and thrust bearings up. I have seen alot of people fry thier diffs in mod, and I have seen alot of them race for a long time with no problems. Just wondering if I should tighten my slipper and tighten my thrust or what. I sure hates buying parts when I don't really need too! LOL.
I tried a 19 turn with my stock setup and it seemed to run ok. The only other mod I have is a 12turn double, that I am reluctant to try with that setup. I got it used and haven't run it yet and I guess I am just paranoid LOL. Thanks for any info you can help me out with.

John D. Pelfrey

[Casper]

jpel200-- You should not be paranoid about running mod truck! :)

After all the pro guys run mod truck. You are right to be concerned with the diff though. All you need to do is make sure the slipper gives before the diff does. If your slipper is too tight the diff will not be able to handle the power. To check this, take the gear cover off and while holding the spur gear and the right side tire with one hand turn the left side tire until it gives. By looking at the slipper shaft you will be able to tell if the slipper is giving or the diff is too loose. If I run mod I tend to run my diff a little tighter then when I run stock and always start off with the slipper on the loose side. The first run after a rebuild I run the car and then slowly tighten the slipper until it stops slipping under acceleration. This should be pretty close to perfect but make sure the slipper slips before the diff. That is the trick. I do not build the diff any different. I just set it a little tighter. I hope this helps.

[jpel200]

Thanks for the info Casper!

I'll try that. Another thing I thought about. Do you change your supension much? Like make it softer or harder? Just curious.

J.D. Pelfrey

[Casper]

There are usually some things that will make the car easier to drive since the truck will come into the corners harder. I tend to want thicker oil the rear to reduce chassis roll and want to take a little steering away but that is me. You may want to change things to fit your driving style.

[jpel200]

Thanks Casper,

I have noticed that everything sort of depends on driving style, but this gives me a place to start! :p Thanks for the info!

[losi racer13]

where do u find these losi foam tires i went to there site and it doesnt show em help me

[RCGuru1]

Hi all well I'm gonna race my xxxt mf in April so what is a good mod motor for this truck for a medium size dirt track?

[Casper]

Anything from 10-14 turns. I like the new Orion Revolution or Peak Vantage modified motors. They can last between 15-30 runs between cuts without loss of performance!

[cabbynate]

Has anyone tried the GEN2 diff screw setup in the XXX-T?
I like the fact it has two blue dust covers instead of one and the spring seems cool too.

[Casper]

I have heard of people converthing the rear end it takes lots of work. I have not tried just using the diff screw in the normal diff but the screw since it uses the two dust washers. I am not sure it would work. The bones will probably hit the screw. I have heard the MF2 is due out around July

[cabbynate]

Casper,
You are right in all counts.
BK ran the new truck at Cactus and we all know how that went.
Next up: XXX-TGEN11
Around July.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey guys maybe you can answer my question in here.
I love the XXXNT truck
I am thinking about going electric truck???
T-4 or XXXT
I like the XXXt but some say go with the t-4
Anybody have any sugestions in here?????
HELP

[Tig]

Whats up at RCZone
I have recently got back into RC cars and bought a Losi Triple XT. The things I hopped up first were the speed control(LRP Quantum Pro Reverse) and motor(Fantom 11 turn Double). Do they make a long travel suspension for the Triple XT. Also what other
hop ups would you guys recommend
Any info would be much appreciated
Thanks
M V

[Casper]

Monsterbrad-- You are on a losi thread so most will say get the XXXT Matt Francis edition. I would agree. The T4 is a good truck but I do like the losi shocks a lot better then the T4. Losi will be coming out with a new truck in July though. It will be an update to the XXXT similar to that of the BK2. They will put in a new tranny and give some more tuning options. You will enjoy either truck and both can be succesful racing.

My Version-- There are not long travel suspension kits for this car. I would get the alum rear pivot block and some tires and good batteries. If you have graphite chassis parts and titanium tie rods and all that stuff I would spend money on tires and batteries.

[Tig]

Casper,
What batteries would you recommend, I am currently using Peak Racing PowerMax 2400 batteries. As for the chassis, its all stock. What and were is a good place to get all of these components. Are the graphite parts more favored than the aluminum parts.
Could you toss a couple of links my way.
Thanks for the info
M V

[SRM4HRVK29]

MIP CVD kit will not fit

I just bought the MIP CVD kit for my xxxt, and i went to install it, and it won't fit. The dog bones are an inch too long. The package says it fits Team Losi xxxt and it requires no modification, but it's too long. I don't know what to do. Any xxxt owners that have the CVD kit or anybody know what the problem is? I appreciate any responses.

[Radio Acer]

hey everyone. i just started building a xxx-t spec truck and found out that losi doesn't include a pinion gear for the truck. i was wondering what pitch the truck uses and and about how many teeth i should have for a 17 turn motor. thanx in advance.

[WheelNut]

Radio Acer-the manual should have a gearing guide in it.
SRM4HRVK29-Contact MIP if all else fails, I'm certain they will be able to help you. Mabye you got the wrong kit somehow?

Do you guys know of any good sites on the xxxt? I'm probably going to buy one when the update comes out, I just want more info to feast on for a while.

[Casper]

My Version-- I would get some of the new GP3000 cells. They have tons of voltage and low resistance. These are the best cells on the market right now. Orion/Peak batteries are great but any matcher you trust will produce some good cells. These are the batteries to have right now.

SRM4HRVK29-- I am not sure why they do not fit. The CVD's should work for the XXT, XXXT, and XXXNT as they all use the same length bone. My only guess is that you may be putting the axle spacer on the inside of the hub. This will not make the bones and inch too long though. Can you take a picture?

Radio Acer-- They are 48 pitch gears. The spec kit comes with a green spur I believe which is an 88tooth. I would start with a 20-21.

WheelNut-- I do not have a ton of useful info on the truck but you can check out my site. http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04 If you have questions post them here and we will see what we can do to answer you questions.

[Tig]

Thanks Casper, I appreciate the info

M V

[Monsterbrad]

Hey Casper I have access to a full service machine shop my dad owns his own.If you want send me pics of that rear tower and i could hook you up with a new one and a spare depending on how complex it is.
Either put the pics on here or send them to
ExExCR@aol.com
I'll take a look at them.
I love the custom work done to that truck I have said for a while Losi should make a 4wd stadium truck it would be awesome.
Any way if you are interested you can call me also
814-450-6973
any time during the day is cool.
thanks Brad

[Casper]

Monsterbrad-- I appreciate the offer. Unfortunately I have the truck in about 100 pieces. I would have liked to get it on the track to see how it would handle there but I am not sure it is worth the effort to get it running again. I had a dimesioned drawing of the tower at one point but I am not sure I could find that either. If I can dig up the drawing I will e-mail it to you and you can let me know what you think!

[Monsterbrad]

Casper that sounds good or you could just send me the broken one and I can make a new one from that.
Just let me know I would love to help get it back running again.
I have been in this sport for 15 years and I love it.
XXXT and XXXNT RULES

[black sentra 04]

I'm looking into the market for selling my XXX-T RTR. It has an Epic Binary 2 Pro Stock motor, along with an Epic 3000mAh Sport 6-cell battery pack. I have a Reedy Quasar charger, and the radio, along with the batteries, will come along with it. The reason I am selling the truck is my friend got a Savage 25, and it is the coolest thing in the world! The truck is not even a year old and it is in great condition, but it does need a new diff. (I think, but it is not giving me any problems yet) it also might need a stainless-steel screw kit. Other than that you can e-mail me at [black_sentra@msn.com] if you are interested, or if you need more details. Before I go I need to say that everything is stock, except for the motor, it will be cleaned before you get it, and it comes with everything you need to get it up and running, including radio batteries, and a charger for them. This truck is the perfect thing for a beginner, and it will serve it purpose well if you get it. I am asking for about $300-400, but the price is negotiable. That's all for right now. Thank you all for your time.

John H.

[2Fast2Fury]

Can anyone tell me what I would need to convert a xxx-nt into a xxx-t. I'm finding that more people around here race electric and it's hard to get enough people to have a gas race, so I'm thinking about selling my nitro parts and adding on xxx-t parts. thanks everyone.

[Casper]

I would not bother converting. The front end is the only think common. You can share some tie rods and bearings and screws but just about EVERYTHING else is different. A short list of just some of the new things you will need.

Chassis, rear arms, rear tower, rear T-plate, the entire transmission!

It would be a lot cheaper to sell the NT and get a MF. I would wait about a month or two and get a MF2 that will be out shortly. It will have a revised tranny and additional tuning options.

[cabbynate]

Has anyone run a Binary 2 Pro stock in there XXX-T? I run a monster stock and gear it at 87/17. I just got a Binary. Any ideas on gearing for it?

[Casper]

I have not tried one yet. I am not sure which arm they used for that motor. I only heard good things about it. The only problem is that is it not a "legal" stock motor. I would start by gearing this motor in the 17/86 range.

[cabbynate]

Thanks Casper. I think it's the same arm as the monster epoxy balanced instead of drilled.

[Casper]

I would start with a 16 tooth then and see how hot it gets.

[cabbynate]

I would start with a 16 tooth then and see how hot it gets.

I think you are right. On the bench full throttle swells the tires way more than with my monster and that is a fast motor. 16 sounds good. I'll let ya now after I run it on a track what I came up with.

[cabbynate]

Raced it at Titus hobbies Wednesday night and 87/16 worked well. 87/16 might have been a tiny bit better. The motor is fast and I think it will get faster as the bushings and brushes break in more. We shall see........... :)
Also seen the front arms for the MF2. SWEET!!!!!!!

[Casper]

I thought you lived in Vegas! You drove all the way down to riverside to race on a Wed night! You are big time hardcore! :eek: :D LOL

[Racin Rev]

anyone hear any rumors as to when the mf2 will be out?

[Casper]

I have heard dates from June to Sept. My guess is that it will be out early July. It sounds like they have a body and are begining to shoot parts so it will just take a little more time to assemble the kits to meet the initial demand.

[cabbynate]

Go to Team Losi web site now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEA BABY!!!!!!!!!
By the way, yea I live in Vegas but don't mind traveling for some damp clay action!!!!!
www.teamlosi.com

[Casper]

Cool-- I can hardley wait!! I need to go preorder one at the LHS!!!!

[cabbynate]

I may just convert my existing truck? :confused: :confused:

[Casper]

Well now you have some extra parts! :)

[Breakin2]

How difficult would it be to convert a Matt Francis to an MF2? Is it even possible? I was going to get an Francis for a good price ($180), but if this new one is coming out I just might wait. However, if I can convert this one to the new one, maybe I'll go make the deal.

[Casper]

It would cost $80-$100 at a minimum. You need new arms front caster blocks, rear hubs, rear arms rear "T" plate, front and rear pivot blocks and then entire tranny (case, top shaft, diff gear, idler gear, outdrives) and new drive axles.

[Breakin2]

Casper - thanks. I think I'll just wait then.

[Casper]

You only need to wait another couple weeks!

[Breakin2]

That's true, but I want to race NOW! ;)

[Casper]

I think you will be happy you waited. I loved my XXX but I would not want to go back to it after driving the new BK2. I am expecting the same reaction from the MF2!!!

[cabbynate]

I think you will be happy you waited. I loved my XXX but I would not want to go back to it after driving the new BK2. I am expecting the same reaction from the MF2!!!
Casper,
Unrelated to this topic I have a question? On your website you had a mod to make the XX-4 full time 4wd and I was wondering what type of tracks this would work better on? I have a XXX-4 and tried to run it without the one-way but had a hard time with it because every time I touched the breaks it would STOP!!! :eek: I know that is what breaks are for but dang!!! :D
Then one day I was playing with the old M8 and found the break EXP was at +134%!!! I lowered it to +85%, put the diff in and on the carpet it slows to a stop. Is this the way you would have ran it? I think it would be more controllable slowing for the turn at the end of the straight this way instead of all 4's locking up. Ya think? :confused:

[Casper]

Actually I always ran the oneway on the XX4 as loose as possible. The mod I had was to eliminate the slipper. One of the neat things about the XX4 is that the one way was on the gear and not in the diff so it was virtually indistructable. The oneway diff on the XXX4 has been giving everyone problems from what I have heard (do not own a XXX4). The only reason you would want to run without a oneway in offroad is if you needed extra brakes but you typically do not have the traction to warrant the extra breaking.

[cabbynate]

Actually I always ran the oneway on the XX4 as loose as possible. The mod I had was to eliminate the slipper. One of the neat things about the XX4 is that the one way was on the gear and not in the diff so it was virtually indistructable. The oneway diff on the XXX4 has been giving everyone problems from what I have heard (do not own a XXX4). The only reason you would want to run without a oneway in offroad is if you needed extra brakes but you typically do not have the traction to warrant the extra breaking.

Thanks for the info. ;) I never had a problem with the one-way. I shaved the drive pins down on the CVD's and to date have only broke 1 left bearing.
I'm thinking about going up to Titus to race today so I can try the car all WD.
If I don't like it, it only takes 10 min to change back to the one-way.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, if you dremel down the drive pins on the front CVd's, they one-way hubs won't break. I have not broken a single one since doing this mod, just make them clear the metal saver ring and it seems bullet proof, or as close as possible for 4w mod, LOL......Jim

[cabbynate]

Has any one tried Trinity's CRE rear end conversion on there XXX-T?
I wonder if it would give close to the same rear end handling characteristics as the new MF2?

[Casper]

Those two mods are similar but the MF2 changed some other stuff that modifed the geometry of the rear end. Not a lot of people liked the CRE conversion and only ran it on REALLY high bite tracks. The MF2 is good under all conditions.

[cabbynate]

Those two mods are similar but the MF2 changed some other stuff that modifed the geometry of the rear end. Not a lot of people liked the CRE conversion and only ran it on REALLY high bite tracks. The MF2 is good under all conditions.

D'OH!!!!!! :eek: I should have brought this up before I grabbed one off ebay!!!!! :mad:
No big deal. I only paid $39.00 for it shipped and I would like to try it out any way. I figured it might work ok at So Cal and Titus. Maybe not. :o
So I wonder if I dropped in the GEN11 tranny if that with the CRE would be better? Woops, there goes a nother C-note. :o

[Casper]

It would probably work really well at Titus. So Cal is not smooth enough to get away with the CRE rear end IMO. It is really for a smooth track where you would want to run slicks. I am not sure if the CRE would fit with the GenII tranny. the GENII tranny is wider at the diff and the hubs are closer to the centerline. You can try it but my guess is the bones will be too long.

[cabbynate]

It would probably work really well at Titus. So Cal is not smooth enough to get away with the CRE rear end IMO. It is really for a smooth track where you would want to run slicks. I am not sure if the CRE would fit with the GenII tranny. the GENII tranny is wider at the diff and the hubs are closer to the centerline. You can try it but my guess is the bones will be too long.

I was thinking that the CRE hubs might be the same depth as the gen11 hubs since the gen11 axles are longer? If so I would want to run the Losi dogbones from the new truck. I have a friend that has a BK2 so I will test the fit when I get the set up.

[Casper]

The CRE hubs move the pivot point for the bone inboard. The GEN2 hubs are the same depth but the hole hub is move a little inboard and the axle spacer is larger. The problem with the CRE hub is that it changes the bone pivot point further inboard. This is the not the same way the GEN2 hubs work. GEN2 hubs are the same as the regular hubs but with an additional pivot point. You will need even shorter axles for the CRE conversion with the GEN2 tranny.

[cabbynate]

The CRE hubs move the pivot point for the bone inboard. The GEN2 hubs are the same depth but the hole hub is move a little inboard and the axle spacer is larger. The problem with the CRE hub is that it changes the bone pivot point further inboard. This is the not the same way the GEN2 hubs work. GEN2 hubs are the same as the regular hubs but with an additional pivot point. You will need even shorter axles for the CRE conversion with the GEN2 tranny.

After listening to you and talking to Aaron Waldren at the track today about the CRE, (he called it a red neck fix) it might end up back on ebay very soon. :o

[Casper]

Sorry :(

[cabbynate]

Sorry :(

My bad. That's what these forms are for. You ask questions FIRST, discuss and then decide on what to do.

[Casper]

Lol :)

[winning edge designs]

Not for anything, but it is often said that anything that only works well on high bite doesn't really work(or doesn't produce traction well, obviously). There are always exceptions, but i'm putting my bet with the TeamLosi engineers, if they know of something that is alot better, they will release it themselves......in time....jmho, Jim

[cabbynate]

Not for anything, but it is often said that anything that only works well on high bite doesn't really work(or doesn't produce traction well, obviously). There are always exceptions, but i'm putting my bet with the TeamLosi engineers, if they know of something that is alot better, they will release it themselves......in time....jmho, Jim

I agree with that statement 95%. The other 5% I think the manufactures (specially the smaller ones like Losi before Horizon) try to use as many parts from past models as they can get away with and still make a better product.
Now when they grow or get bought out buy a BIG company than they can really pull out the stops. The XXX/XXX-T was designed buy Losi (Small). The MF2/BK2 was designed buy Losi (Horizon) so it I think that is why we see so many new parts. I could be wrong though. :confused:

[Scooby Doo]

Hey, I am looking in the market for some new electronics for my XXX-T, and I figured, since you guys know what to do, I'd ask you people. So, I need to know what the absolute best electronics there are available for the XXX-T. I'm not talking those 9-channel radio systems that cost $2,000, I just want the best possible electronics for my car. Price is no issue, but don't make it too cheap, because I am not buying a 2-channel system from Futaba. Here are some of the electronics I have looked at:
LRP Quantum Competition 2 ESC
Novak GT7 Forward Only ESC
Super Sport Brushless System w/SS5800 Motor
D6 10T Single Wind Motor
Team Orion Revolution V2 10T Single Wind Motor
Team Trinity 6-Cell Vis-Matched Race Pack 3600mAh NiMH Battery Pack, Unassembled
Team Trinity GP3300 Vis-Matched Race Pack NiMH Battery Pack Unassembled
JR Racing XS3 3-Channel Synthesized Radio Transmitter w/Synthesized Reciever
Airtronics M8 3-Channel Synthesized Radio Transmitter w/Synthesized Reciever
As you can well see, price is no issue, but I don't want to fork over $1,000 for electronics that I won't need. Thanks for all of your help.
Later,
John H.

[cabbynate]

You won't go wrong with anything you have there. You did not list a steering servo? I just installed a Hitec HS-5975HB in my XXX-T and it has NO SLOOP!!!! You may want to look at them. They have Karbonite gears. They are 4 times stronger than the white resin gears and stay tight 5 times longer than metal gears. If you crash a lot you may want to go with a metal gear servo.

[Scooby Doo]

Hey, cabbynate, thanks for the heads-up for the steering servo. I was wondering why I didn't list a steering servo, but, I have looked at some, but didn't know what to get. Some of them were:
JR Racing DZ8450 Ultra Speed
Torque-98 oz/in.
Weight-1.92 oz.
Gears-Alloy Metal
Motor-Coreless
Speed-0.08 sec./60 degrees @ 6.0 V
Size-0.73 in. x 1.52 in. x 1.32 in.
Ball Bearing-Dual
Price-$114.95
What is the price of the servo you listed, because it sounds like a really good steering servo? Thanks for all of you guys' time.
Later,
John
P.S. I never really crash, I try my best not to, the worst crash is just flipping it on a jump.

[Casper]

All of the stuff you listed looks good. The brushless system is the only red flag in your list. If you want to race you have to get a brushed motor system for your car.

The speedos you have listed are great. They are the best of the companies listed. You might want to look into the Keyence and the KO speed control systems also. Both make some pretty incredible but less used speedos. They do not have the sponsership base the other two companies do here in the us (Keyence does not sponser anybody but there stuff is top of the line.

Steering servo. I would stick with Airtronics, Futaba, or KO. The JR servo you have listed is awsome but the price it to high. I would look at the Airtronics 94758 which is a digital servo. 115oz torque at .06 transit. KO makes some really good digital servos also PDS-2123 131.9 oz / 0.06 sec (7.2V fet boosted) or the PDS-2143 111.0 oz /0.08 sec (standard 6V). Hitec is getting better but I would not consider them top of the line just yet.

[Scooby Doo]

All of you, thanks for the information. I really appreciate it.
-Casper-What is the price of that digital servo? It looks like that might be the one I get, and is it a digital servo, don't those need a programmer? I don't really know, because all I run right now is the stock servo. Plus the brushless system was an idea, I think I have dropped it from the list, becasue mainly of the price, it's $285 for the ESC and motor, which is ridiculous.

Plus, all I really want to do is race, and beat my friend's Savage 25, and after the review, it won't be that hard, because he runs 15% nitro, and in the magazine they ran 30% nitro, and still didn't get it past 40 mph. All I got to do is get a 10T Single, D6 or D5, and a matched battery pack, the right gearing, and he's history. Sorry about the rambling, but which is the best set of tires? I was thinking, for all-terrain bashing, I'd get the Team Losi Smasher, and for on-road, I'd get the Proline Speed Hawg 2, and for racing, I'd get Proline Edge for the front, and the back, I'd get Proline Bow Tie T. If you have any suggestions about what I should get, speak up, I could use all of the help I can get. Thanks for your time.
Later,
John.

[Casper]

You can get the Airtronics for $96.95 through www.ultimatehobbies.com . You wil have to call them but they will ship anywhere in the US. Tower and Stormer both have them for $104 I think.

The KO servos are around the same price.

[cabbynate]

That Hitec servo I mentioned cost about $82.00. I got to test it Saturday and was really impressed with it. I did crash a lot, hit walls, cased jumps, nose-dived into big double's, you name it. The servo survived without a glitch.
I run an Airtronics 94757 digital in my XXX-4 and it is a really good servo.
www.stormerhobbies.com has them for $129.00. I just don't think I needed that much servo in my XXX-T. Hitec also has great warranty service.

[gizmoguy303]

Remember that with a hot mod you'll need access to a comm lathe, whether that would be by having a friend cut it for you, or owning one yourself. Might want to factor one of those into your list as well.

If you're going to race at Adam's Creek, I've already talked to them and they are fine with racing brushless motors in Mod. I'll be taking my Novak SS. See ya there. ;)

Also, you didn't mention a charger. If you're going to spend all that money on batteries you need a good charger to take care of them. Example: LRP Pulsar Comp, Novak Millennium Pro, Reedy Quasar Pro, etc. Speaking of batteries, buying from a smaller matcher such as Kinetix, Pro-Match, Fukuyama, etc. will give you much more bang for the buck.

Hope this helps a bit.

[Scooby Doo]

Okay, I am now looking for a motor comm. lathe, charger, and some other thing of the sort, tires, what would be the best for optimal grip on the road (asphalt, concrete, etc.), also, what would be the best for bashing, on/off-road? I'll have gizmoguy303 help me with the race tires, because I, hopefully, will have the chance to race (and maybe beat) him, and we'll be racing at the same track, so he can help me out. And with the Novak GT7, do you guys think it is wise to install a "Corally-style" connector for the motor/battery connections? I am moderately experienced at soldering, because I took a one-day course at Central Tech, an electricity class, and we soldered random stuff. Chargers, yeah, I didn't mention a charger, because I haven't looked into them lately, but the Quasar Pro, or something by Comp. Electronics is probably going to be my choice. Also, motors, do you think I should get a pair of D5s? A single wind and a double wind (for torque)? Or should I save the maitenance and go for brushless? (considering the fact that it is gonna' take more than two years to finish my car, I might as well go for the absolute best electronic equipment) The M8, is it the best, or really near the top, in terms of quality, and competitiveness, and of course, the synthesized version is the one I'm getting. I think the servo I will get is the Airtronics 94357Z Hi Speed/Hi Torque servo. The ESC, brushed motors, the Novak GT7, and the motors, you know, two D5s, single wind/double wind, if I go with the brushed setup. Thanks for your time.
Later,
John
P.S. gizmoguy303, sorry about the name changes.

[gizmoguy303]

Let's see here...

Airtronics M8 Synth -- $420
Novak GT7 -- $140
Trinity D6 -- $60
Trinity GP3300 Race Pack -- $55 x 3 = $165
Reedy Quasar Pro -- $190
Airtronics 94357Z -- $110
Cobra 2000 Pro Lathe -- $120
-----------------------------
TOTAL -- $1205


Ouch. ;) Here's my version:

Airtronics MX-3 -- $100
Novak Dually -- $100
Team Orion Revolution -- $62
Pro-Match Matched Packs -- $45 x 3 = $135
Reedy Quasar Pro -- $190
Hitec 625MG -- $40
-----------------------------
TOTAL -- $627

With the Revolution motors, you should be able to get someone to cut your comm for you, since they do not require cutting as frequently as the others.

I basically cut it in half. You don't have to start out with the very best stuff. This will be a very competitive setup, and you can always upgrade your stuff later if you feel the need. Driving skill makes much more of a difference than if your radio can cook bacon while you drive and your servo has special gears. :) You could be driving your car instead of mowing lawns to save up money!

Hey man, at least race a few times with what you have while you're saving up for all your top-of-the-line stuff. :D Novice classes rule!!! :p

[Scooby Doo]

Dang! Is there anything you don't know? I'll see what I can do about checking out the specs of the things, but in the meantime, I'll be watching The Lord Of The Rings: Return Of The King. It's awesome, and your setup seems much more, um, reasonable, I'll take your advice, because you're a seasoned racer. I'll go with that for now, thank you ALL for the tips, and suggestions, especially gizmoguy303, you rock man. I hope to race you sometime, I'll be checking specs on various battery packs, and stuff, but I'll keep it in a modest price range, instead of a "Bill Gates" price range. Remember, racing is what keeps this hobby, career :D , alive. Thanks again for the tips, have a great day.
Later,
John

[gizmoguy303]

I'm not really a seasoned racer, but I did do a lot of research before buying all of my stuff, just like you are right now. I'm gonna get my butt kicked by those guys at Adam's Creek, but it's all good. :D Hope to see you there someday. When are you gonna order all your stuff?

[cabbynate]

Airtronics MX-3 -- $100
Novak Dually -- $100
Team Orion Revolution -- $62
Pro-Match Matched Packs -- $45 x 3 = $135
Reedy Quasar Pro -- $190
Hitec 625MG -- $40
-----------------------------
TOTAL -- $627

This all looks good to me too but I had a Reedy Quasar Pro and I was charging a pack at home. I walked over and touched the charger and shocked it and the screen went black. It never cane back so if you get that charger don't walk across a carpet and touch the charger. the Reedy would be great if it had a plastic case like the CE T-35/30's.

[cabbynate]

Here is something I have been pondering over?
Will the new MF2 get me around the track much faster than my built for speed XXX-T? I race stock truck and most always end up in the A-main in the sportsmen class and I just can't see the new truck working that much better for $255.00.
I could use that money on some Pro-Match team packs and I bet that would get me around the track faster than a new truck would.
Any opinions????

[gizmoguy303]

What battery packs are you using right now? If they aren't matched, the Pro-Match packs will be a very noticable improvement, and your lap times will definitely improve.

I would wait until the MF2 is for sale for a while to see what others have to say about it. I might buy one after I try driving my dad's XXX-T that we just bought off eBay. If I like it better, I might sell my T4 and get the MF2. :D

[cabbynate]

I run Pro-Match battery's. I am racing with 1 1/2 year old 1.159 GP-3300's.
They have lost about 500mah of run time. They last a race and still have ok power but some new 1.171's would be nice. The ir's on my packs are around 26.5 on the old T-35 GFX so I will be needing new batt's soon.

[gizmoguy303]

I would imagine new batteries would help more than the changes in the MF2 kit. We'll see what everybody has to say about MF2 after it's been out for a while.

[cabbynate]

I bet your right. I'll wight and see.........
In the mean time I'm thinkin maybe some new batt's and a personal transponder would money well spent. ;)

[Kirk07]

I want to upgrade my XXX-T.
I have:
Duratrax 8T Pro ESC
Lightspeed Stock Motor
Matched Team 2400 Trinity Battery (1.17V)
Hitec Metal Gear Servo
Original XXX-T Race Truck, with graphite arms, lightweight upper gear, custom made 6mm steel front bumper and front suspension brace.

What should I upgrade first?

[Casper]

kirk07-- Practice time! :) Your stuff looks fine. Better batteries will help also. GP3300 batteries will help with speed. You have good number 2400's but they will not maintain the punch and speed as long as 3300's will.

[gizmoguy303]

Yep, everything looks good. Just make sure your motor is in good condition and well-prepared. Some new GP3300 packs wouldn't hurt, though. With more packs you can practice longer, and the new packs will give you more power for the race. ;)

[offroadcrazy01]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I raced yester day I race Alot of gas but I wanted to try out a xxx buggy so I did but half way into the race my battery's went dead i charged it on a good charger I used a novak millennium and three 3300 peak battery you guys have any idea's

[Casper]

What do you mean by "three 3300 peak battery". You are using a 6 cell battery pack right? You should be able to tell from the Millennium that you get a full charge. If the battery has been discharged you should be able to get 3300+ mah of charge into the pack and it should not dump.

[offroadcrazy01]

three 3300 packs and yea they are 6 cell I'll just try again

[Casper]

Ok just making sure. You should not have a hard time making run time. What is the voltage when the batteries are peaking? Also like I said before make sure that you get at least 3300 mah on the charge. The only way I know to dump in 5 min with 3300 is to false peak or having a bad motor that is shorted.

[YBLegal]

I just got an XXX-T in a trade. My oldest son runs a T3 and my youngest an Evader BX (hey shut up he's only 9 - lol). Anyways, it came with a PK2 motor, Novak Cyclone ESC and a couple of matched 2400 packs. I know this has been asked time and time again but I have looked on Losi's website and on here and haven't seen anything for a stock (27 turn) motor. What would be a good gearing for this setup? The track I go to has a decently long straight but the rest of the track is pretty curvy and kind of loose packed dirt. Thanks in advance.

[Casper]

I would start gearing around 19/86 to 20/86 for a P2K in a XXX-T

[gizmoguy303]

Just sold my T4. Just ordered a MF2. Just sitting here smiling. :D

[YBLegal]

Thanks Casper!!

[Carajo]

Hi and greetings from Sweden

I just ordered my MF2 from the states; I have been driving Nitro Touring cars for about 4 years and during the spring I picked up a wonderful Mini T.... then a second Mini T ... and hop them up. I just love them so I ordered the big brother MF2.

I have a few questions for all you xxx-t owners out there.

1. I went for the Novak Brushless system, SS5800 super sport... what pinion should I use with that do you think? I also order the Robinson Racing Pinion sets so I am covered

2. The first thing I broke on my Mini T was the spindle and carrier as well as the Front pivot block.... so I upgraded to Aluminium. I have been try to search for a good upgrade for this…. Since I am sure it will go !!! Who makes one for the frount and rear?

3. Is there something more I should think about that will break and you would recommend that I pick up a few extra of?

The reason is that it is hard to get Losi Spares in Sweden so I want to put in a big order now so I can be covered for the summer :rolleyes:

Thanks for any help you can provide and I can not wait to start to build it in 2 weeks when it comes…….

[gizmoguy303]

I just ordered my MF2 as well and I plan to use a 17t pinion with my Novak SS5800. I'd try a 17t first, then you can experiment with a 16t or 18t.

I don't have any experience with this truck, as I used to race a T4, so I can't help you with the parts question. Maybe some extra ball cups and a-arms. Good luck!

[gizmoguy303]

Almost done building my MF2. Everything except the shocks is done. The new ballcups are very tight; they are made out of a much harder plastic than the usual ones. I'm scrambling to get everything done before this weekend so I can take it out and race!

[Carajo]

That’s awesome! Everyday I come home and hope for a new package. Nothing yet ……. Damn takes to long to get over here ………….. :mad:

If you got a chance to finish it and drive this weekend how did it go?

[gizmoguy303]

I'm going racing tomorrow - I hope the diff holds out on me! :p I'm going to start with an 18 tooth and see whether I need to go down to a 17 or up to a 19.

I'll try to think of some stuff to look out for while building the kit. One thing I do remember is wipe off the battery tray with rubbing alcohol or motor spray before attaching the self-adhesive insulation tape. Mine's already trying to come off. :mad:

A few pics...

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v291/gizmoguy303/all_done.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v291/gizmoguy303/all_done2.jpg

[winning edge designs]

My truck was awesome yesterday, had a good battle for the lead going, but wheelied down the straight and blew it over, popped off a ballcup......oh well, it handled like a dream and i'll be back, heh heh.......Jim

[cabbynate]

My truck was awesome yesterday, had a good battle for the lead going, but wheelied down the straight and blew it over, popped off a ballcup......oh well, it handled like a dream and i'll be back, heh heh.......Jim

MF1 or MF2?

[winning edge designs]

MF1, the MF2 is on the way........New Ballcups and all, :).....Jim

[cabbynate]

MF1, the MF2 is on the way........New Ballcups and all, :).....Jim
Sweet!!! ;)
I got my MF2 from the UPS guy Monday but for some reason I can't bring myself to open the box? Lets hope it is because I can't even think about building it until Sunday and not because I kinda fell like I would be cheating on or, for that matter abandoning my girlfriend. :o

[dkj-M3]

my friends tell me it goes together nicely.

[Radio Acer]

hey everyone, I got a question. where do you guys put the the ON/OFF switch, I tried double sided tape but that didn't work to well. I can't find a spot that seems suitible for the switch. (I have the origianl XXX-T, not the MF2)

[Casper]

I put my switch on the chassis right in front of the speed control. Servo tape should work just fine. Clean both the chassis and the switch with some rubbing alcohol before you use apply the servo tape and it should stick really well. MIP sells the best servo tape. It is a little pricey but sticks really well and when you want to take it off it comes off in one piece. It is well worth the price for me but if you use the alcohol trick any tape will stick well. Some people stick the switch to the side of the speedo and others have figured out a way to stick it in the back somewhere around the rear shock tower but with the good body clearance with the truck body on the XXX-T around the front of the chassis it is an easy place to get the switch in the front of the speedo.

[Casper]

Here is a picture

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04/images/truck_no_body_top.jpg

[Sleeper]

Has anyone here tried to run more than the standard 6 cell battery pack(maybe 10 cells)thruogh a novak super rooster on a XXXT? I currently have a Trinity Speed Gems 11 Turn Tripple for a motor. Could this motor handle a 10 cell battery? I'm very interested in doing something like this if anyone has any input. Thanks everyone.

[FBS]

I've tried Google and searching the forums, but I can't find a list of either the components included in the XXX-T RTR, or the parts needed. Help would be appreciated.

[Casper]

The RTR comes built with a radio, Speed control and motor. You need a 6 Cell battery and a charger for it and 8 AA batteries for the radio and you are ready to play.

Here is a link directly to the Team Losi web site page describing the RTR kit

http://www.teamlosi.com/kits/XXXTRTR.htm

[RustlerBoy]

I wish i could get the MF2, but i think i did well anyway. I bought a used MF for 40 bucks, with the brand new never used King Pin tires, for 40 bucks. Then, i traded my Futaba 3PK for an M8 with two Tx packs 2 recievers and two sets of crystals!!! Scpre for today!

[LasagnaCat]

You forgot to mention one thing... is the Rustler jealous? :)

[The Modfather]

Can someone point me in the direction as to where I might be able to purchase some spur gears for the XXT? Can't seem to find em @ Tower for some reason. :(

[Casper]

Are you looking for spurs that fit the hydra drive or the single slipper system? You can conver the XXT tranny to the double slipper system. All you need is a new slipper back plate and an additional slipper pad and you can run XXX gears. IF you are looking for single slipper/ hyrdra drive gears try this.

Stormer hobbies has the 88 tooth gear:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS3908

Horizon hobbies has them also: www.horizonhobby.com search for

LOSA3904 Slipper Gear,84T:Hydra 3.50
LOSA3906 Slipper Gear,86T:Hydra 3.50
LOSA3908 Slipper Gear,88T:Hydra 3.50

Tower does not carry Losi parts anymore since Horizon brought Losi and Horizon and Tower are competing distributors.

[dhrusis]

Wheres the best place to buy a losi xxxt kit right now? I'm trying to build a budget kit for myself, and I want to eventually race with it. I heard that XXXTs are great quality, and since the MF is out, they are a little cheaper than they used to be. Is this true?

Is the xxxt a decent quality truck for racing? (I'm a newbie, granted, but I dont want to be the last one every time)

I was looking at this page: http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/l124.html, and saw the xxx-t spec and xxx-t Francis graphite edition kits. -- can someone explain the difference?



Thanks!!

[dhrusis]

what the freak

[winning edge designs]

dhrusis, the main difference between the standard XXXT and the XXXTMF1 or MF2, is that the newer trucks come with about $300 in hop-ups for $60-70 dollars more. The only problem is deciding if your rookie status justifies the added expense at all. Basically i'd look at it this way. If money is tight, you don't have to have the greatest thing out and you can handle being asked, "why didn't you get the MF2 kit", over and over, save the money while your learing the ins and outs. If you have the money, it's no contest and you'll save a bunch in the long run from the cost to upgrade.

I'd try Superior Hobbies dot com, or call them at 407-834-9299......they have good prices and everything in R/C heaven is in stock. Another place is JR hobby, in kissimmee, they are also on the web and good guys(talk to dave or john).......Good luck, Jim

[Radio Acer]

I have a question about the ball diff. I just stripped the screw that goes through the whole diff assembly and threads into the nut. I bought a new one and installed it, and the manual says that you can stick an allen wrench through the hole in the outdrive and tighten the whole diff by turning it. But I can't get the wrench through the hole becuase the screw isn't far enough into the diff. I'm also worried about the thrust balls. They can fall out of the hole since the screw isn't as far in as it should be. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? thanx Oh, and I have the Spec kit, not the MF1 or 2

[Casper]

I am assuming you are running the slidder shafts since that was stock in that kit.

When building the diff with the slidders I always replace the nut that goes in the outdrive prior to tightening the diff. (Good pratice for all diff rebuilds with any outdrives.!) I normally use a small flat head screw driver to get the screw started into nut and begin tightening the diff. When you get the screw started and start to add tension to the system "work" (move the outdrives back and forth) with every 1/4 turn of the screw to make sure things get seated properly. Once you get the diff snugged down you should be able to stick a 1/16th allen wrench or driver through the access hole to adjust the diff tension the rest of the way. If after you get the screw tightened with the flat head screw driver and the thrust bearing is still visible and you cannot see the slot in the screw head through the access hole there is something else majorly wrong. Make sure you did not get a monster diff rebuild kit or use the diff spring for the Gen II diff or the NT diff. You HAVE to use 6-8 spring washers when you build this diff. The springs will not work as the screws are not long enough.

[Radio Acer]

Thanx for the reply, I have the right parts, but the screw isn't long enough as you said, I'll take out 1 or 2 of the spring washers and see what happens.

I've never run this truck (since it's my brother's) but everytime he gets out there on the track he creams all the gas trucks. he's gotten second, and he would've won if his battery didn't run out of juice 30 seconds before the end. unfourtunately he has to run with the gas trucks cause the track operator won't start an electric class. But this just shows that electrics are just as good as gas (maybe even better) :D this truck is amazing

[Casper]

You should have this stack on the screw that you put into the male side (I think that is the side that does NOT have the hex in it for the lock nut) of the outdrive. Screw, dust foam thing, thurst washer, thrust bearings, thrust washer, 6 cone washers It should look something like this:

|:|((((((

I have not had a problem with the screw being too short when I use the washers. The screw will not fit if you use the springs though. I have tried that. Also try and use a low profile steel nut to hold the diff together to make sure you get to the locking feature

[Radio Acer]

Everything went together well. The manual said i should use eight of those washer things, so I took two away. It now looks like this:
|:|)((((( and it works.

[Radio Acer]

Everything went together well. The manual said i should use eight of those washer things, so I took two away. It now looks like this:
|:|)((((( and it works.

[Radio Acer]

sry about the double post

[Radio Acer]

i recently destroyed a ball cup on the rear turnbuckle in a crash. I've been thinking about getting a lunsford titanium turnbuckle set, but I've got one concern, The two longest turnbuckles are almost 3 in. long. The stock rear turnbuckles are only 2 1/2 in. long. If anyone has these turnbuckles please tell me if they'll work, and also what ball cups i should use (the stock ball cups seemed kinda week)

[Casper]

Lunsford does there homework. The tie rods for the truck should work just fine. 3 in seems a little long to me since the kit uses all 2 3/4 for the rear but according to the lunsford web site the rear tie rod them give you is only 2 7/8. That should be fine. I would use the new losi white ball cuts. They stay on really well and do not break anymore. They have been awsome for me so far. I used to run RPM ball cups since the losi ones would break on me. I would rather have a ball cup pop off them break. The new white ones are much stronger and do not pop off. They are GREAT!

[winning edge designs]

Man that Casper is good....Just like the white ballcups are, LOL....Jim

[Radio Acer]

lol, Thanks for the info, i'll look into it ;)

[alexrckid]

after having the rear(shock tower end) ball cup come loose right in the middle of competition, i found that replacing that end with a DUBRO heavy duty ball link(p/n 2266. 2268 or 2315) fixes the problem once and for all. prior to that, i was using RPM long shank rod ends(4-40) p/n 73395 along with LUNSFORD superduty(3.5mm) turnbuckles.the DUBRO's fit the superduty's perfectly...............the DUBRO ball ends articulate perfectly fine for the rear.

[xratedtmaxx]

Looking for the best place to pick up a NIB MF 2 any ideas? Who has the best price right now? Thanks

[winning edge designs]

Try Superior Hobbies, they have a web site by the same name and keep almost everything R/C related in stock. JR Hobbies is also a good shop that does mail order, but they don't stock alot of TeamLosi stuff......Jim

[microrcdude]

cant forget about www.horizonhobby.com

[Casper]

www.ultimatehobbies.com Call them for a price.

[emaxxrdr88]

I need help finding spur gears that will fit the xxx-t. Can someone please link me to spur gears that will for sure fit the xxx-t preferably on Tower Hobbies or HobbyTown.com. Thanks everyone and please help if you can! And BTW what spurs are you guys using on it?

[Casper]

Tower does not carry losi parts anymore. Try www.stormerhobbies.com or www.horizonhobby.com for losi parts. I run a 86 spur on my truck. This is stock gearing with the XXXMF and XXXMF2 kits.

[emaxxrdr88]

I know how many teeth my spur should have I just dont know where to find them. I need a link to spur gears/gear that will fit the xxx-t.

[emaxxrdr88]

Nevermind I found some on Horizon Hobby but I only found Kevlar but it'll have to do.

[chadori rc'er]

hello all
i am going to start racing offroad and i was wondering if the xxx t is a good truck to start with. For how much do you think i could get one for and where from.

thankyou

[Casper]

The XXX-T is a great truck. You can get the XXX-T RTRII for less then $250. Then all you need is a battery and a charger. You may also want to get a good stock motor for racing novice class with. The whole thing will set you back less then $400 for a good starting setup for racing.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I agree with Casper, the XXXT is a very user friendly truck, easy to work on and maintain, etc. There are always a good supply of parts available from reputable shops and other drivers as well........Tons of help from Team drivers for set-ups too!....good luck, Jim, JConcepts.net

[Bad-Attitude]

Hey guys. I am very new to RC and my wife is getting me a xxxt rtr II for christmas. I have heard alot of people talk bad about the losi cars. Is there something I should watch out for? Should I skip the electric and goto the NT? Also is there a place to get a copy of the rules for difrent racing classes? Sorry for the newbie questions and such.

[Casper]

The Losi is a GREAT car. If you do not know anything about R/C you are better off starting with electric as gas engines can be tempermental at times. Electric cars are easier to keep going so you can spend more time driving and playing with setups. As for rules check out

http://www.roarracing.com/

ROAR is the largest sanctioning body here in the states. These are the "rules" most places follow.

[dkj-M3]

better yet, find a nearby track & check out the racing, you should be able to get a lot of your ???'s answered there. See what's the biggest class running.

[winning edge designs]

Bad-Attitude, remember who you are talking to when you hear "bad things". Usually they are driving an A/E and need you to get the same car to confirm thier choice, LOL..........Reallistically, they are all good cars, each has it's benifits and quirks, especially to get them to drive the way you like. This is more apparent to experienced racers, not new ones, so it is less of a factor for a new racer. Most of the guys driving the "other brand" will brag that they have been running the same set-up since 1985, but TeamLosi is always pushing the envelope, developing new technologies and materials, etc., that's why they are my choice!...One example, I remember when TL came out with the composite molded chassis in about 90' some racers with the other brands giggled and said it was a toy car material and would never work like aluminum does.....What material do they all use now?....Have fun wither way, they are all good cars and we benifit from the competition, Jim

[streetracer]

Hello? this thing on? Testing. Testing, 1 2 3.
My truck is almost done and ready for racing.
Just rebuilt the tranny, replaced some outdrives, and now, just need a body.
cant wait!

[Casper]

Sounds good. Hope you have fun driving it.

[microrcdude]

Kyle, were you at A-main bout 2 weeks ago? I had a red B4 and i think i was pitted kinda close to ya.

[Legacy]

I want to get a xxx-nt sport or sport II. But with it being winter and all I am going to get an electric first. Leaning heavily toward the xxx-t sport II. Love the radio system and look of the car (as well as many other things...) Anyone seen any good deals on this truck? Everywhere I look it seems to be the same price, $270..... Is it worth that price?
Thanks!

[winning edge designs]

Legacy, you won't find it advertised cheaper then Horizons MAP price. When dealers advertise below the MAP they get trouble.......Some have specials if you call though. This actually helps legitmate dealers alot, since they don't have to compete against guys selling kits for $3.00 over cost out of the trunk of thier buick...................Jim

[Legacy]

I have the truck now. Man that thing screams. Real fast for RTR IMO. Need to get some GP3300s and I will be set. The 1500 batt I got them to throw in isn't all that satisfying.

[winning edge designs]

Check out Fusion batteries dot com and see some of the best packs available. They sell the same batteries over the counter and don't keep thier best for thier team........They are also pre-biult racing packs, with heatsink battery bars, sweeeet.......Jim

[losifreak2004]

Didn't realize this was still here!

What's up?!

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I think everyone running this truck is so hooked up and care free nobody posts about it.......I'm going over to the T4 thread to see some action, LOL........Jim

[losifreak2004]

Haha!!!

[Radio Acer]

LOL....i gotta agree. My bro ran this truck for like 4 races with no prob. the best part, he won over a whole field nitro trucks :D This truck is amazing, no other way to put it

[losifreak2004]

Dialed :cool:

[grandpede]

getting back into racing. been practicing really well at nearby track lately and hopefully will begin racing late this spring. i got a xxx-t sport w/all stock parts for a great price (new). i'll be keeping stocker motor and lrp esc in it.

while i keep honing my driving skills, appreciate any feedback on some upgrades that might make her run a little better (less motor & esc). used to run a t3, losi is fairly new to me with regard to increasing its handling ability. thanks!!

[Casper]

The truck should run fine stock. I would get a set of tires that work well at your track as the first task. Then I would upgrade to graphite parts as you break things. You can update to VLA suspension parts if/when you break parts. The truck should treat you well with the right set of tires.

[shadowghost1]

Hello all, I just bought a new MF graphite edition and I want to run it on a track that is short with alot of curves and jumps. What pinion can I use with my stock spur to give me torque to get off around corners quickly but still give me some speed on the straight away?

[Casper]

What motor? Different motors (especially stock motors) have different power bands and need to be geared differently. Check out my gearing chart on my web site.

http://home.socal.rr.com/casper04 under the info sheets section. IF the track is really tight you can go down a tooth from my recommendations but this is usually a good starting point for the different motors.

[shadowghost1]

P2K2 is the motor, and thanks that gearing chart is nice!

[Casper]

No prob.

[grandpede]

Casper,
Back on your post #716, what is needed to upgrade to VLA suspension parts?

[Casper]

For the front end you need arms and spindles. It is a little harder to change to the rear. The rear end kind of requires it all.

[grandpede]

For the front end you need arms and spindles. It is a little harder to change to the rear. The rear end kind of requires it all.
So I don't need the shock tower or caster blocks for the front?

[SandHawg]

Currently I'm running the RTRII version with the BL SS5800, and have a couple of questions. Are there any gearing upgrades I should consider, i.e. more durable? Or will the stock gears be OK?

Secondly does anyone know the internal drive ratio for this model? ( 2.43:1 maybe?)

Thirdly would I see much performance or runtime difference if I upgrade batteries from 3000 sport packs to GP3300's while using the SS5800.

Thanks

[xxxtnut]

I just got my XXX-T up and running and I'm very very happy with it so far.The gear chart at caspers site is the bomb.thanks all.

[Casper]

Sorry you do need caster blocks (not spindles, my bad) but the shock towers are identical.

[Mad Bout Aus]

Hey guys :) Really simple question, does the xxx-t use a standard 540 motor? I've notice that there is some funky, gear looking thing on the end of some engines I'm looking at (buy) that came out of xxx-t's...

Cheers
MAD

[Casper]

Yes it uses standard 540 motors. You also need to get a 48 pitch pinion gear for the car. The kits do not come with pinions. only the RTR comes with a pinion.

[thewarrenator]

ive had a little problem with my truck for the past week. my differential keeps unwinding in about a minute everytime i drive it. i do have a aluminum diff nut, would that be the problem? see, it drives perfectly for about a minute but then the diff unwinds it self completely and my truck just sits there. it does it with the diff in both positions, diff nut on left side, diff nut on the right side. has anyone had this problem? and does anyone know how to fix it?

this is the aluminum diff nut...
http://1hg.com/home/Indexnf.htm

[thewarrenator]

go on the left select components then find the losi triplext then the diff nut should appear. the web address is the same anywhere u go on that site so it didnt work as well as i planned

im thinking since the alu. diff nut doesnt have a nylon lock thing in it it doesnt lock it.

[Casper]

Use the losi nut. I have never had one fail on me. When ever you rebuild the diff replace the nut. They come in a bag of two for about $2.00. This HG nut is a waste of money and does not solve the issue most people (I am not say you) have with seting the diff too loose and not having the slipper give before the diff. Stick with the losi diff nut and always replace it for insurance when you rebuild.

[thewarrenator]

well i changed everything and it still does it. would that be because my slipper it to tight? how much should i adjust it anyways?

[Casper]

Here is a post I made on another board that describes how to set the slipper and the diff.

With the car point away from you with both tires on and the gear cover off. Hold the right side tire and the spur gear with one hand. With the other turn the left tire. Look at the slipper shaft and as the left wheel turns if the slipper shaft does not also move the diff is giving before the slipper. Tighten the diff or loosen the slipper as required to make sure the slipper shaft moves during this test.

[dkj-M3]

thewarrenator- are you breaking the diff in? not sure about electric it has been awhile. but on the xxx-NT, with a new diff, you have to set it a little tighter than need be, b/c it will loosen up a little after you run it when new, as the parts settle.

Casper knowzzz, he'll set you straight.

[thewarrenator]

i get it as tight as it can be and it still unwinds. ive even tried threadlock.

[Casper]

I would replace the diff screw then. It may be a little undercut and not digging into the locking nut. The screw really should not back out if the nut is new and the screw is not damaged. This is pretty extreme as I have not heard of this being as big an issue as it sounds with you but you can clean off the screw with motor spray. Drake says the machine oils used to make the screws can cause the thread lock to fail. Again I have never had a screw back out of a new nut before in the diff. Like DKJ said though like all diffs you will want to check it after the first 2-3 min of running to make sure it has not loosened up some. When the diff "breaks in" or "sets" in the first few minutes it may require some minor adjustments to ensure it is not too loose. As the balls and rings seat and settle the diff setting may be a little looser. This is kind of a one time thing. Check it after the first run and set it again and it should be good for the life of the diff then. The expeption is a new square wire spring where you need to make sure you fully compress the spring a couple times before you install it the first time as the spring will take a set and cause a loose diff setting if you do not take this step.

[Casper]

Is there a track or LHS near by that might be able to help you rebuild the diff and maybe help you figure out your gremlin? There may be something else that going on an experience Losi diff builder might be able to see?

[winning edge designs]

warrenator, if the diff gear is being melted and destroyed then the slipper is too tight, but if the diff is just unscrewing itself and can be reassembled it is not the slipper causing your problem.

The orientation of the diff screw head will have NO effect on wether or not the diff screw remains tight. Since the diff unloads from both sides depending on which direction your turning, the diff screw can be loosened by the force from either wheel. If the diff screw is still loosening on you, check your thrust assembly and be sure it isn't binding up or rubbing on an outdrive, etc. and that it moves freely after assembly. The only ways a diff can dissassemble itself is if the thrust bearing isn't operating, or the diff nut is not locking...........................Good luck, Jim

[thewarrenator]

well i took it apart and found out that one of the washers on the screw head side was completely ground up. im gettin really sick of this differential problem...i think ill have the diff be rebuilt by a professional at my lhs. im gettin closer and closer to selling it. i want to get into nitro but dont have the money to.

[winning edge designs]

warrenator, if you want, send me the parts and i'll biuld you a diff, no charge, no problem...........Of course if your local shop will be reasonable about the charge for doing it, that is a great way to do it. Any biulder with Losi experience can biuld one in about 5 minutes and will also be smart to check your slipper as well, even though it isn't absolutely needed if you know the procedure for checking the slipper adjustment after the diff is biult.

It sounds like a definate thrust assembly problem, since the washer ground up. This means it was forced to spin on the bolt, rather then working as it should, like a ball bearing.

Keep in mind this diff problem would occur in any brand, electric or gas, car or truck.........let me know if you need help, :), Jim

[thewarrenator]

ok well i might just have to take you up on that if i cant get this thing to work... i bought everything new other than the outdrives and the big outdrive washer thingys that lock onto the out drives. so i put it all together following exactly like that directions told me to and it was like it wouldnt let me tighten it enough. id tighten it completely and the outdrives werent even touching the diff balls on the gear. its like the threads dont have enough thread to allow me to tighten it all up. so i thought and tried to put 6 more beveled washers just to see if that would work and it wouldent let me tighten it again which is odd. its like it didnt let me get closer to the diff gear balls then it was without the 6 extra beveled washers. in the attempt of tighening it with the 6 extra beveled washers i actually stripped the diff nut pegs on the side of it. as you can probably tell im very anoyed and frustrated. anyone ever had this problem? can anyone help on what i should do myself before making someone else do it?

[winning edge designs]

warrenator, something is going badly wrong, since the instructions are very good.....

Are you making sure the diff rings are on the outdrives correctly? I'm not sure what else could be wrong.

I was serious about biulding it for you, let me know..........Jim

[Casper]

There is a build issue here or bad outdrives or something like that. You really should have an experienced person take a look at the diff. These things really are not that difficult when all the parts are good. My buddy recently built a NT diff and the outdrive was defective. The thrust washer would not seat due to the inside of the outdrive not being properly machined. (this is a rare case of a defective part) but it was not something a normal person would catch. It took someone who has built these things for a while to figure out. The best advice I could give at this point is have someone else look at it for you.

[dkj-M3]

sounds like the diff screw is in the male outdrive. It should go in the female outdrive.

[dkj-M3]

oops thats for the NT forgot this is the xxx-t thread.

[thewarrenator]

well i figured it out... the directions that i got off the internet didnt show the use of a bearing on the screw head side. so i found a complete exploded view of the whole tranny which showed it inline with all the other parts.
so thanks for all the support.
nick

[Badgadjit]

I'm new to R/C and just bought a XXX-T RTRII a few weeks ago. The truck is the best, most complete RTR I have seen yet, and I can't stop playing with it / spending money on it.

I upgraded to a Orion Formula V2 2x17 (bearing model), and love it! :cool: It is sooo much faster than the stock motor and the comm/brushes should last a long time because of the V-shaped brush hood. I'll let you know later (only ran a half dozen times). I have it geared with a 19 tooth, and it doesn't get hot even after running two of my 1800mAH packs (new batteries is my next upgrade). A very good upgrade at only $32 from towerhobbies.

I have an RPM motor cover coming in the mail, as well as their long shank ball cups (just for when my stock ones break/wear out). I also have a set of long MIP ball studs coming cuz I hear its a pain to pull out broken studs from the rear camber mount. You folks who buy the lunsford stuff must drive really hard cuz stock seems practically indestructable to me (for the most part anyway).

Some advice: Listen to Casper, that guy KNOWS Losi R/C. Also, remember your LHS, if you don't support them, they might leave some day, and then where will you get your quick parts fix?

[Casper]

Badgadjit-- The RTR comes with larger steel tie rods. The older kits came with much thinner tie rods which required the upgrade. The new RTR tie rods are nice and strong but heavy. You can save a "little" weight by going titanium. You may also have a hard time getting the standard ball cups on your tie rods because of the larger size of the RTR tie rods. The standard cups can be installed but it takes some serious effort. Glad you like the truck!

[Badgadjit]

Casper- Thanks for the tip. Glad the ball cups were only $5 :)

Anybody know what brush springs to choose for the Orion Formula Pro SV2? Right now my biggest priority is commutator life.

[Casper]

Run the enduro brushes if you want long life. Stock springs are fine.

You can also buy replacement brush spring combo's so you do not need to solder the brushes

ORI41130 SV2 Brush / spring assembly w/eyelet