Team Losi XXXT Forum v2.0

[winning edge designs]

Warrenator, cool, glad it worked out!

Ya, with the enduro brushes in my XXX buggy which as a 12x2, i'm on my 51st run without removing the motor from the car. I won't cut it until it noticably slows down.....In my XXXT presently is a Peak Surikarn 10x2, which has 11 runs on it, never cut, and is still a monster.

Who needs brushless with these things around!............:)....Jim

[Badgadjit]

I want to upgrade to a more powerful motor for off-road bashing and doing jumps with fairly short approaches. I'm pretty much set on an Orion Formula Pro BB SV2 (I have one right now, and love it, but its a little slow at 17x2), but I may get a Revolution instead.

I am not sure which wind to choose, but I want one with the number of winds in the lower double digits. I want one with good acceleration in the middle and lower-middle rpm's, and good power favored over runtime, but I don't want a wind that runs really hot. I'd really like your suggestions.

p.s. Would a motor with a wind as I described still be able to hit 40MPH? If not, would there be a different wind you would suggest for that purpose? (may have to pick up a couple new motors... :rolleyes: )

Thanks

[winning edge designs]

badgadjit, a motor that would get your XXXT up to an honest 40mph would probably need to be in the 12 to 10 turn range. I think a 12 could do it, if you get a good one and gear it properly, with your trucks drivetrain in primo shape, good batteries, etc.

Speed in R/C is the same as fullscale drag racing. I've been doing that on and off for 25 years and i've seen literally HUNDREDs of 11 and 12 seconds street cars that get to the track and run 13's and 14's...some even 15's, LOL...........So much for accurate guesses.

Anything over 35 mph is hauling pretty good and will result in destruction in a crash with a curb, car, etc.

With that said, try a 12x2 geared with 86x23, if you hit your speed and want the brushes to live longer and have it run cooler, go to a 21, which is "normal" gearing for a good 12. Get some good batteries(I use Fusion packs) with 1.17 or more voltage too.....................Have fun, Jim

[Badgadjit]

Thanks for your help, Jim

I'll try a 12x2, but first I need to (or at least I really should) upgrade my ESC, which is the Novak XRS from the RTR II. Novak has some remanufactured Super Roosters available for less than $90 which seems to be a small price to pay for such a beefy ESC. I like what I've heard about Novak's customer service, and its a plus to deal with a company that's here in the US.

I have pleanty of real-estate inside my XXX-T to accomodate the monolithic super rooster, but I never hear of guys running them in stadium trucks. Do you guys think I'd be happy with it, considering weight isn't a factor?

[Phil7847]

Can someone please offer some advice/suggestions; I am having some XXX-T issues!
I bought the RTR for my son to learn to race on. Second day out the ESC failed and was sent back to Horizon for replacement (6 weeks ago...still no ESC).
I put another ESC in the car (Duratrax 16T) and was OK for a week before the motor quit. Horizon quickly replaced that and I ran it this weekend for the first time.
First race, car slowed towards the end of the 5 min race and then stopped. Motor/gearbox very hot. Took motor apart and one of the permanent magnets was broken in half jamming the motor. Replaced the motor with a 'loaner' but the ESC does not want to drive it forwards (reverse is OK). Have I fried the ESC?
Is this just bad luck, or am I doing something wrong?

[Badgadjit]

Phil - Make sure that your loaner motor does not have a shotkey diode soldered onto it. You never want to run a motor with a schotkey diode when you are using a reversable ESC. Not only will reverse not work, but you can fry your ESC as well. Also, make sure you connect the motor to the ESC using proper polarity (ESC Blue = motor negative, ESC Gold = motor positive). Hope this helps.

[Phil7847]

Thanks - there is no diode. I tried connecting the motor both ways and it only responded to reverse (transmitter reverse, of course, the motor ran both ways).
I guess I might be forced to spend more $$$ on it. What do you suggest as a reasonable hop-up in performance from the standard 19 turn? Is 14 turn significantly faster, or do I have to go down to 10/12 turns. I don't want anything outrageous, but keeping closer to the 1/10 nitro trucks would be nice!

[Badgadjit]

My Orion Formula Pro BB SV2 17x2 runs my truck at about 25MPH, using stock ESC (not bad, only a $32 motor), geared to 19T, it barely gets warm, same with ESC even after running hard for 10-15 mins. Personally, I think the V-shaped brush hoods is where it's at.

[winning edge designs]

Phil, I would try a sport style modified if you want, but stay at 17 or higher on the winds. I say this because low wind motors are hard on speed controls and it sounds like it isn't going too smoothly right now. In fact you may want to run a hot stock motor for a little bit, to try and get thru a couple races without any troubles. The RTR XXXT is a great truck, so i'm wondering if you are racing on a rough track, or the truck is getting some major airtime? These are some of the ways that magnets crack and motors get overheated.....

For a speedo upgrade you may want to try a Cyclone or something that is able to nahle any motor and has thermal shutdown, which usually saves the speedo from needing repairs.................Jim

[Phil7847]

I worked on it last night and the speed control is OK; the motor was the problem - it does not run unless you help it along! Switched to another 19 turn motor and it is running again.
I also ordered the Team Orion Formula SV2 Pro BB 17x2 motor from Tower to see how that goes.
The track we run on is getting very bumpy. There is also a big jump (big for me!). My Hyper 7 clears it a half throttle, but the XXX-T in standard form does not reach the landing area so it does take some heavy landings (usually wheels first!). I am hoping the 17 turn will give me enough to clear the jump.

Now I have to learn about selecting pinion gears for it...lots to learn! :)

[dkj-M3]

"it does not run unless you help it along"

hung brush, maybe needs a rebuild.

[Badgadjit]

Phil - you won't be disappointed with the Formula. Mine is still running strong after a dozen runs. I took it apart last night and sprayed it out to clear out the brush dust, and the comm and brushes looked good. I changed the pinion to 20T (up from 19T) and the motor runs more powerful than ever, and still cool enough to touch after driving hard.

I put a few minor hop-ups on my XXX-T this week. I put on an RPM gear cover (part no. 73235), but there wasn't enough clearence and the spur gear actually rubbed on it, so I cut out some of the plastic from the 3-o'clock position to the 6 o'clock (while looking at the cover while it's mounted). Now it works great, and the gears are still well protected.

I also installed a set of long stainless MIP ball ends. I really like the sturdy feel, shiny looks, and they seem to have less stiction and feel smoother than the Losi ball ends. Next time I order parts, I'll order the short MIP ball ends to replace the rest of the stock ball ends.

[Phil7847]

I wondered if anyone else found that the spur gear rubbed! I saw the groove that was worn in the cover and took my Dremel with a sanding drum and gently thinned it. Mine now clears the spur gear and the cover is intact.

Waiting for the Formula Pro motor to arrive!

[Re-Mix]

Yeah mine also rubs, but only with a 88 spur. It works great now though.

[Badgadjit]

Yeah mine also rubs, but only with a 88 spur. It works great now though.

Have you tried the 86 tooth spur gear? I'm thinking of getting one and a new RPM cover if it works without rubbing. Thanks

[Casper]

The older cover rubbed with an 86. A small amount of filing an it clears just fine. The new Gen II covers rub a little on right inside ball cup, but again a little fileing and it is all good.

[Re-Mix]

Yes, I now run an 86 tooth kevlar spur, although it doesn't rub simply because the old 88 wore down the rpm spur gear. Im running the xxx-t also, no idea about the mf2.

[smoke1974]

is or can the xxx4 be faster than say the revo or the new jato or most gas trucks for that matter? thinking of going electric to get away from the gas hassle! if it can beat gas what is recomended for a speed con, motor, servo, and battery to do so? i have a 3pm futaba control already.

[Casper]

I would go with an electric truck so you can go the same places. An electric truck can be just as fast or faster then a gas truck. The Jato with the two speed and a .15 will be hard to beat though speed wise. The Revo will go places both the Jato an electic car would not think of.

[Re-Mix]

A brushless xxx-4 or mf2 will smoke a Revo or Jato if done right.

[dkj-M3]

gas hassle,lol I actually think electric is a hassle. But that is me.

electric is faster, nitro just has the power & run time.

[Re-Mix]

Ehh ohh, I smell a fight. I don't think a nitro can beat 20 minutes of runtime at speeds of 35-40 mph. Also, those mini's, up to 40 minutes. But, i've always been curious about getting a nitro buggy, until I found brushless. :)

[Casper]

A brushless xxx-4 or mf2 will smoke a Revo or Jato if done right.

The 2 speed .15 Jato will be hard to beat power or speed wise.

[winning edge designs]

Well, we've run 4wd in our Florida state series races, which races gas on saturday and electric on sunday. The 4wd cars are ALWAYS the fastest, that includes 1/8th scales, so a "jato" or any other gas truck for that matter, will be nothing but in the way with a 4wd car driven by a decent driver.....except, "Maybe" in an all out speed run in an empty lot?

4w modified cars even outperformed the 1/8th scales on 1/8th scale tracks with huge air jumps spanning 50 feet of distance in the air!

On electric style tracks, it's a joke, with several seconds "per lap" advantage going to the electric 4wd cars sometimes.

The gas cars just make more noise and sound faster, not that they aren't a blast as well..........basically apples and oranges............Jim

[Badgadjit]

My XXX-T RTR II has been having some thermal problems lately. I'm running a 17x2 mild mod motor, and never had problems with my Ni-CAD batteries. I purchased some Dreadnaught 3000 Ni-MH batteries, and with those my stock ESC (Novak XRS) overheats after just a few minutes on a warm day. Funny thing is that the new packs put out 8.5V when fully charged (6 cell), compared to the 7.5V that my Ni-Cad's put out (also 6 cell). Is this normal for Ni-MH?

I've upgraded all connectors to Dean's and trimmed excess wire length down quite a bit. I've even tried wiring a 2200 uF power capacator across the ESC's battery input wires without any noticible difference in ESC temperatures. I've tried using a higher gear ratio, with no luck. The drive train still feels smooth; I've only put a dozen or so runs on the truck. The motor is in good shape and has good power and the brushes/comm don't look burnt or glazed.

Are Ni-MH batteries known to work the ESC harder/hotter? Does it sound like I'm running up against the physical limits of the ESC at this point? Am I missing anything?

Thanks

[USATorque55]

Hows this truck as a basher?

You guys really seem to know what your doing, I'm going to likely bring my motor into the hobby shop tomorrow to see how much a cut comm costs me. I planned on replacing the brushes, but I realized that chances are the comm is ruined too, so brushes will just be waste. If I cant get the motor running well for under 25 than I might as well just get a new one.

I'm running a Trinity D5 13x4 motor. The thing is a beast in my buggy, but has slowed down after a year of being dormant in my other RC. I think I'll tear open the thing. I want some performance back.

[winning edge designs]

Badgadjit, it does sound like your at the limits of your ESC unfortunately. You may need to go up a wind or two, or upgrade the speedo so you'll be able to run any motor you want.

The problem is that a better battery will tax the speedo just like a hotter motor. Since the speedo is only the resistance between the power source and the power device. but from your post you may already know a bit about electricity? :).......Jim

[Re-Mix]

The xxx-t is a great basher. I've almost had mine 3 years now and it runs great around the neighborhood. I also run brushless and it holds up great to that.

[Badgadjit]

Jim - Thank you for your help. I don't know too much about electricity but there are some good posts on rctech.net about wiring capacitors to your ESC. I suspected my ESC was the bottleneck in the system but I'm a novice in this hobby and need some advice from time to time. ;) - Kip

[winning edge designs]

Kip, no problem, anytime..............Jim

[grandpede]

With some mods on the esc, tires, and a stocker motor...how's this truck competiive wise?

[Casper]

It is the same truck as the MF1 with plastic suspension. It is a great truck and you the driver will determine if the truck wins or loses. It will be race worthy with the best stuff out there. You will just not have the Variable length arms which is not too big a deal since I still use the settings that were used in the MF1 on my MF2.

[Badgadjit]

I bought a remanufactured Super Rooster direct from Novak. It is a close fit on my chassis because it is so wide. I applied a small amount of Arctic Silver 5 (one of the best thermal interface greases on the market, in the computer world) to the FET's before installing the heat sinks. The throttle response feels much smoother now than with my XRS. The SR barely gets warm with my 17x2, but the XRS would thermal with the same motor.

Also, I picked up a used Integy MOD-Fashion lathe. After cutting my comm and putting in some new brushes, the truck SCREAMS! I have more torque and overall power than I've ever seen with this motor. The lathe has hands-down been the single-most power-enhancing thing I have purchased for this truck.

If some of you guys are thinking about getting a lathe but don't know anything about them, you should check out Big Jim's Motor Forum at http://www.rccars.com/forums/ A lot of very good information can be found in various lathe-related threads there that will help you make an informed purchasing decision.

Till next time, keep having fun with R/C :)

[gizmoguy303]

I have heard great things about the Integy XMOD lathe - mostly on Big Jim's forum. Glad to see you're having fun! :D

[winning edge designs]

I've heard good thigns as well, even though I have not upgraded my lathe, because it is working great. I'm using a Cobra lathe and diamond bit that is about 6 or 7 years old, maybe more?

The most important thing with a lathe is that it leaves a straight comm(no taper), which can be adjusted and also set incorrectly on almost every lathe. So it is important to check taper with a micrometer occasionally to be sure any lathe is still correct...........................Jim

[Casper]

The taper is the reason I like the fantom lathe so much. Since it is a one piece design it is less likely going to shift over time. I swear by that lathe. It is a little more then some other but since you get the lathe, a diamond bit, the case, a slave motor and a 4 cell battery with it, it is really not that much more!

[microrcdude]

Fantom has lathes? See, ive been out of RC for a while, lol

[winning edge designs]

True, sometime the less complicated a lathe or any machining device is, the more reliable and accurate it will be.....The best way to ensure good results is to eliminate user error, or the need for maintenance...LOL.............Jim

[Casper]

True- I know guys that have the assembled lathes sometimes make sure they guides are aligned and then pin the guide blocks to the base so it will not move out of alighnment as easy. I would only do this if you really know what you are doing though!

[Phil7847]

Thanks for the advice from this forum. I upgraded the motor in my XXX-T to a Orion Formula Pro BB SV2 17x2 and I am very happy with the performance increase.
I put on a new set of rear tires (Losi step-pins) and was much more competitive.

Can anyone suggest some alternatives for the step-pins? They seem to wear very quickly and I don't really want to replace them every 2 weeks. What about T-Bones?
Our track is pretty hard and very bumpy on the racing line but there is lots of loose stuff off-line.

[winning edge designs]

Phil, if step pins are wearing, you must be on a fairly hard packed track? If that is the case, T-bones will give better wear, but less traction also. If the track is grooved well, or hard with low sand(loose sand on top)the T bones are awesome tires!
Ifmar studs are also very good tires to try out, a little less traction then steps with good wear.........Jim

[Phil7847]

Thanks, Jim. I will try the T-bones and see how they grip.

[Re-Mix]

Hey. I recently upgraded from the Novak SS58000 to a Lehner 4200. Its about the same powerband, but im experiencing some major tranny problems. I just rebuilt the tranny, so I really don't want to open it up again. Im sure that the diffs are tight. When running in fairly short grass which I usually have no problem in the car begins to slip and not have any traction. Pretty soon it ends up loosening up the diff and all. Im thinking that my slipper is too tight or what? I know that with smoother throttle I could avoid this, but its getting annoying. Let me know. The tires are dirt works or gladiators II's, so no problem with traction there.

[stiffler]

remix it sounds like diff trouble check the lock nut and the slipper too

I just got the J concepts Illuzion body for my truck, that thing is just plain sick!

And it helps me score the chicks!

[stiffler]

:eek: haha

[Re-Mix]

The diff keeps loosening itself up. I changed the locknut, but that didn't do it, so I'm guessing the screw would be the problem. Hopefully it holds its own tomorrow, otherwise I'll have to get some locktite.

[winning edge designs]

Re-Mix, the diff nut is the key, if that doesn't do the trick there is some other problem with assembly. Check the thrust bearing condition and the assembled components for correct orientation using the manual if you have it around........Jim

[Re-Mix]

I checked out and reassembled eveything. It seems to be running smoothly, although I don't have any extra foam thrust bearing pads.. not sure if thats the exact part, but it goes into the diff. Im scared to run without it. The tranny doesn't seem to be binding up, so im going to have a look at the motor tomorrow morning and then run it

[thewarrenator]

i had the same problem, it seemed to be the thrust washer assembly.

[Re-Mix]

I rebuilt the diffs and had one good run on the tranny, about to try another one.. Crossing my fingers, I love this truck :). Hopefully the tranny problem is solved

[jrclark]

I switched the tires on my xxx-t sport from the stock tires to a set of Pro Line Road Rage II tires all the way around. I seem to have lost some top speed and increased the tork at take off. I think that I need to change the pinion and spur gear. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and recommend a set up? I am still using the stock motor.

[Re-Mix]

Don't bother changing the spur gear, but you could go up a tooth or two on the pinion if you don't have any heat issues.

[thewarrenator]

anyone got some action shots? i think everyone would like some

[winning edge designs]

I'll try and dig some up at our next race!.......;), Jim

[nitro_newbie]

well im looking into buying a stadium truck because unexpectably the track that is by my house just banned monster trucks and 1/8th scale buggies and i have a ton of monsters but no stadium trucks and i finaled my choices to a t4 rtr se and a xxx-t sport2 and i had a question? why would the esc thermal if it is designed to accept down to 15 turn motors and the guy is only using a 17x2 turn motor or could it be that the max volts on the esc is 8.4v or 7cellbecause my track sells both of them and has all the parts there to.also is 229.95 a good price because that is how much they sell them for.also my 10 year old brother will also use it and well he hasnt used an rc car before so will it be durable enough to stand up to the abuse he will dish out?
thanx for answering my questions
nitro~newbie:)

[winning edge designs]

Nitronewbie, The 1/10th stadium trucks may not be as durable as some monster trucks, since the stadium trucks are designed for racing and the monster trucks for bashing in the yard(although we now race them). But parts if needed are fairly inexpensive and the Losi truck is very durable, usually only breaking if you are doing some crazy stuff with it.

The RTR speed controls may thermal for reasons other then motor turns, such as over gearing, too much timing dialed into the motor, poor battery connections, a bad wheel bearing, etc. Basically anything that makes the speedo work harder then it should...............hope this helps, Jim

[Legend_Car]

winning edge is rite the xxx-t and the xxx-t II are tough trucks they are very durable. the only parts ive ever broken on a xxx-t are an a arm a kickplate and bulkhead and i shattered the stock motor magnet. The only reason was at my track we have an over under bridge jump and i landend wrong and snap.
then the motor magnet i broke when i jumped it out of a skateboard halfpipe and missed the picnic table.

[Re-Mix]

For a list of things I've broken over 3 years of bashing/racing.
-2 Rear Pivot Blocks
-2 Ballstuds
-1 Turnbuckle (stock spec truck ones)
-1 shock shaft (stock spec truck again(very weak))
-1 Rear chassis brace
-1 Tranny case... most of my breakage occured because the parts were simply worn out or my bad landings at the track.Remeber folks, thats 3 years, and only around $40 of breakage.

[thewarrenator]

things ive broken are
1 a arm,
1 rear pivot plate,
1 motor protector thing in the back
1 turnbuckle


thats in 2 years of hard bashing
thats about 15 bucks

[nitro_newbie]

delete:):):):)

[nitro_newbie]

well the parts are no problem since my track now only has asocciated and losi models and have all the replacementparts for all the models. but since the monster trucks got banded alot of the kids that took there tmaxxes now have al these new losi and asociated cars i was like how can they afford to get all that new stuff so im like i want one too but parents said if you want to get one buy it youreself. but i go check em out and it kinda seems like fun racing but a little too expensive. But hey thats wat the hobby is about.thanx for the info only need 75 more dollars and i will have one before i start going to the desert and start using my monster trucks which chug down gas because running 3 monsters makes the gallon go down quick!!lol:)
nitro~newbie:)

[Legend_Car]

is the stock slipper spur that the pinion drives 88t and 48p i stripped mine today a big jump knocked the motor loose and you know the rest

[Legend_Car]

I switched the tires on my xxx-t sport from the stock tires to a set of Pro Line Road Rage II tires all the way around. I seem to have lost some top speed and increased the tork at take off. I think that I need to change the pinion and spur gear. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and recommend a set up? I am still using the stock motor.

do you have the xxx-t or the xxx-t II any ways the stock motor should be set to run on that pinon and spur you might be able do drop a few pinion teeth.

[Badgadjit]

Yes, the spur gear is 88 tooth, 48 pitch. If you want to upgrade your gear cover to an RPM gear cover (highly recommended), you will want to pick up an 86 tooth or lower spur so that the teeth do not rub against the gear cover.

[thewarrenator]

clocked my xxxt at 31.7 mph today. 21-87. does that sound about right for that gearing and a 13t double. seems like it should be a little faster. hu knows.

[Legend_Car]

i ran an 88t with an rpm no problem

[Badgadjit]

i ran an 88t with an rpm no problem

Interesting. I am unable to on my XXX-T RTR-2.

[RON F]

I'm officially a bit confused. Before Xmas 2004 my wife bought me a Losi XXX-T for Xmas. Lately I was looking through the parts manual and I noticed that the top of the page indicates XXX-T II. Is my truck a XXX-t or a XXX-T II ?

[dkj-M3]

if the wheels it came with are chrome, it's a (II)

[winning edge designs]

Ron, the II is the better truck if it is!..............:), Jim

[RON F]

It came with the chrome wheels,but,not the body with the wing that I always see pictured.

[Legend_Car]

does the body have the same paint scheme as the II anyways my new spur came in today

[dkj-M3]

they have different paint schemes for the bodies. the wing might have been hiding in the box somewhere or maybe a mixup at the factory.

[ronhbar]

I started with a RTR and just got done rebuilding a MF from eBay. I have a slight understanding of the slipper concept from the RTR, but not much. On the new truck, I am getting a lot of slipper action - way too much. I keep tightening down the nut to compress the spring and it does not seem to be causing any change. I've almost got it completely compressed (which should be a direct connection, no?) and still the slipper takes three seconds before the truck will start moving. I guess I need to disassemble the slipper and rebuild everything, but are there any hints to what might have gone wrong?

Thanks,
Ron

[thewarrenator]

are you sure its the slipper? no slipper should act that way almost locked. check the differential. it may be way too loose. there should be a flat head screw on one side. hold the opposite side tire with the linkages in the other outdrive and twist the screw side with a flathead screwdriver until its around tight. DONT OVER TIGHTEN. just enough. if thats not you problem i might guess that there is a little oil on the side of the double discs that touches the pads. clean everything of your slipper assembly and try it again.

[Badgadjit]

The wing for my RTR-II came as a separate piece (plastic) with a strip of double sided tape to attach it to the lexan shell.

As for the slipper problem: If the differential is too loose it should make a loud nasty metallic screetching noise. If you still think it is the slipper, make sure that the notches in the slipper pads that hold them in place on the spur gear haven't warn away. If they have, it may increase slipping.

[Legend_Car]

they have different paint schemes for the bodies. the wing might have been hiding in the box somewhere or maybe a mixup at the factory.

yes im aware that they have differnt colors but look at a stock xxx-t I body and than a XXX-t II body there totaly different and you could tell

[ronhbar]

Loose diff. Thanks guys

Ron

[winning edge designs]

ronhbar, the warrenator has you pointed in the right direction. I would also note that the diff should feel firm in it's diff action. If you can spin one tire holding the back of the truck off the ground and the other spins in the opposite direction very freely, the diff is too loose. It should be adjusted so that it only free spins a turn or so when you give the other tire a flick. After this is set, then re check your slipper adjusment......:), Jim

[RON F]

Gentlemen,Thanks for your help.
It would seem I have an RTR-II with a gen I transmission.
Once again thanks,you guys are great.

[ronhbar]

Has anyone corner weighted their truck? I've cornered cars before but not trucks. How much rear bias should I try to achieve?

[Legend_Car]

are you gonna race ron

[RON F]

Ok guys new trouble.I just replaced the stock ESC with a LRP quantum.I'm running gears or 86/18 and the motor is getting hot enough to melt the solder,also when I let off the throttle the brakes lock up.I also just rebuilt the differential with new washers'ball ,everything. Where should i start looking for this problem?Also I just replaced the rear axles with MIP cvds.

[Re-Mix]

What motor are you running?

[RON F]

Revenge of the monster 27 turn>

[Casper]

That gearing is pretty tall for that motor. If you are running the whole battery with gearing that tall the motor will overheat. Start gearing that motor around 16. Those motors can like gearing from 16-18 but more common in the 16-17 range. If it is a large track try a 17 but mid to small tracks stick with a 16. Also running out the battery these days is pretty hard on the motor. 15 min on a stock motor with race type gearing is pretty tough on the motors. I try and keep practice sessions to 6-7 min in length to make sure I do not cook my motors. Last thing make sure the tranny spins free. If there is any binding in the drive train or if you are running in grass or sand this is really hard on motors also and will cause them to over heat especially with tall gearing.

[winning edge designs]

Ron, this is rare that I don't completely agree with casper, :).....But, I don't think the gearing is off, unless you ARE running on grass?
I would check the gear mesh and that it isn't too tight. Also, check the transmission and be sure everything spins freely with the pinion off of the motor to check. If the tires won't free spin for a few seconds with the pinion gear off the motor something is wrong in the transmission, or a bearing is bad. This will cause the overheating AND the "locking up when you let off the gas".

For gearing in stock (27 turn)we run as much as a 21 on my sons truck, I use an 18 with a 10x2, so I don't think that will be your problem? I have run as much as 23 on some stock motors, like the Orion, etc. which make lots of torque but not much RPM.

So be sure to check for binding and let us know what you find. As casper posted, it is a good idea to allow some cool down time, especially if your running low speeds for long durations, it is hard on the motor and speedo.......Jim

[Casper]

Jim-- I have not put a taller gear on my truck then a 19 in a couple years. Those green can trinity motors can run anything in the 16-19 range depending on the motor but they can get pretty finicky with gearing at times. For what it is worth I gear my P2k2 stock the same as a 11 turn mod! My point is I am not super conservative on my stock gearing but I do know you can put too much gear in a stock on a hot day and really do a job on the comm brushes and magnets. That was my point. It sounds like he might have a bad bearing somewhere though. :)

[Racin Rev]

ronf, While i don't disagree that it could be a bearing in the tranny or somewhere else in the drivetrain which is going i am more inclined to believe that the problem lies with the radio/esc. What profile are you running on your esc is the deadzone set right? do you have drag brake dialed into your radio. Do you have kids who might have reconfigured it when you weren't looking. I hate it when that happens :o when it goes foreward does it seem right (speed accelleration)? I would guess that you have a drag brake profile turned on which you don't need with a stock motor or your radio endpoints are set similarly. I don't personally know that esc, are the brakes adjustable? When I ran my touring car i would dial in some accelleration into the radio in neutral so that the cogging wouldn't slow the car down so much. there weren't that many places where the brake was needed, the cogging would slow the car down. I don't use an aweful lot of brake with my mfii with a brushless motor and it doesn't cog perceptabily at all.

[winning edge designs]

;), gotcha' Casper..........My son is at a 21 with a reedy quad mag, maybe I need to watch that closer, LOL. He runs it on the track while i'm wrenching on my stuff until it stops, haha.

Racin Rev, i'm not sure if any adjustment on the speedo would melt of the wires or brushes?

A hung brush would though, :)...................Internet diagnostics, LOL......Jim

[Casper]

Isn't it fun! :D LOL

[RON F]

I got it apart and I found the problem.
The plate behind the slipper had gotten cocked and was rubbing the motor plate.

[dkj-M3]

very small drop of CA will keep it in place.

[syconate]

Hey guys. Yeah another newbie with a question. What upgrades would you all suggest i do to my xxx-t rtr before i begin racing it? I went for the cheap option with the rtr but its my first and i wanted to buy as a combo. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[winning edge designs]

syconate, the best upgrade is better turnbuckles, like lunsford and maybe some titanium ballstuds for the inner turnbuckle connections if it is in the budget........Other then that tires for different conditions and you'll be set for a little while.......Jim

[LosiFromHell986]

A guy on eBay is always selling a full set of XXXT titanium turnbuckles with red ball cups... just look occasionally. Also, I'd upgrade your steering servo; you'll actually run more consistant laps with a faster servo. I'd suggest the Airtronics 357.... and the reason I don't run it? I can't afford it! :D

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, but not new to R/C... I'm running a XXXT MF2 with a Novak GT7, Orion Revolution 12x1, Hitec 925, Novak XXL, and Airtronics MX-3S. I like it over here, it's a nice forum with tons of people!

[winning edge designs]

Yes, the 357 is a great servo, but for someone new to racing, or at least the XXXT, anything with 80+ ounces of tourque and a speed of about .16 or faster will be good. A killer servo may be better, but isn't a needed item at this point. In fact I just sold a Hitec 605 metal gear for about $21 or so on e bay myself....it was a $50+ servo.......:), Jim

[syconate]

Thanks for you advice, i really appreciate it. Went on EBAY and a shop called RCBOYZ, they have heaps of titanium XXX-T gear. Has any body dealt with them?

[Re-Mix]

rcboyz is a good place, I'd reccomend running titanium turnbuckles, hingepins, and ball studs if you can.

Here's a picture of my xxx-t for all of you.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v347/tikiman36/DSC00636.jpg

It's now basically a blue mf1, with the exception of boca bearings in the tranny, hg 1 piece diff nut. I also just found a discontinued lightened blue motor plate, so the trucks complete.

[LosiFromHell986]

Nice rig. I bet that thing hauls you know what!

Here's mine:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/LosiFromHell986/P0003047.jpg

Had to put the body on.... it's a mess under there! I've been switching receivers, motors, etc...

[NEIS]

I was wondering if I cut about 3/16 out of the center of the chassis, then glued it back together, how would the handling change :confused:

[winning edge designs]

Neis, shortening the chassis would be similar to moving the rear hubs forward, but would in fact be a bigger change.

It will make the truck enter turns more aggressively and have more rear traction exiting. It will also feel more responsive and won't be as good on rough track surfaces.

The buggy and truck chassis are identical except the buggy version is about 5/8th shorter(note sure exactly, but 1/2 to 5/8th?).

Keep in mind when we used to do this mod for some inddor tracks the "glued" area would also need strengthening or bracing, since it always seemed to crack and nothing would hold "perfectly"........Jim

[Casper]

Yeah if you are doing this for a truck just put a buggy chassis on. Those that I have seen cut down a chassis used carbon fiber supports epoxied to the chassis to keep it together.

[LosiFromHell986]

Here's a few updated pictures on my MF2...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/LosiFromHell986/P0003060.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/LosiFromHell986/IMG_0542.jpg

So, I'm running A Novak GT7, Airtronics MX-3, Orion Revolution 13x1, Hitec 925 (soon to be replaced by Aitronics 357), Orion 3700 packs(which they CLAIM to be 1.194v... I bet.)

[winning edge designs]

L.F.H., love the Illuzion body, paint looks good too! ;).......Jim, jconcepts.net

[LosiFromHell986]

Thanks man, I love the body. The only down side is that they're too thin, they crack... that's why I got the body trim on there, but you can't really see it. I've broken off about 3 wings, so I had to make my own out of an associated T4 wing... lol. (if you can't tell, those are two different bodies)

Thanks for the comment!

[winning edge designs]

L.F.H., yes, we tried making the Illuzion truck bodies in .040 material, but it weghs alot! In fact it adds 25% of the normal weight to the truck, for example if the body weighs 10 oz in .030, it will weigh 12.5 oz in .040, adding 2.5 ounces overall to the truck. Since people spend $70 on titanium screws to save .5 oz, it doesn't seem reasonable to offer the much heavier material at this point. If we get enough people wanting it we may make some in the future.........:), Jim

[Casper]

The JC bodies are much thicker and last a lot longer then the losi bodies. My next body will be a JC.A lot of guys in my area have been running them and have liked them a lot. Now if they will just make an NT body I can get them for all my cars! hint hint!

[gizmoguy303]

Pink springs in front and orange in rear? That's different! :D

[winning edge designs]

Casper, thanks! We are working on some gas truck bodies, but with A/E working on a gas truck it is a little scary, plus losi's newest body is pretty cool, imo....it may be a little while longer, but it will happen. :)

gozmoguy, I run reds all around on my MF2!..................Jim

[Legend_Car]

i got an illuzion body for my XXX-t and i love it its the best body i have. The other bodies i have had for have cracked after some gnarly jumps but this one wont break it seems no matter what i do

[winning edge designs]

Legend Car, thanks, we're trying to make them strong in critical areas since we race we've been thru the cracked and torn bodies. It's impossible to make them indestructible, but they can be made tougher then they have been in the past. All our gas bodies will be available in .060 soon too!...............:), Jim

[Legend_Car]

i got it for free from u guys somehow also thats also cool. keep up the good work

[Legend_Car]

I got a matt francis 1 coming from ebay its pretty sweet. now ill have a xxx-t and a matt francis 1

[LosiFromHell986]

Thanks for the comments and info, guys.

I think I'm going to buy that new Losi FXT body after this one gets scratched up... it looks pretty good. I'm putting the MF2 on reserve kinda, because I bought a BK2 to race for awhile. I'm told that if you can get good at buggy, it'll make you a much better truck driver.

Gizmoguy, I'm running red in the front now. :) The track I race at tends to change a lot, and the setups are always changing for me.

-Jeff-

[gizmoguy303]

Jeff, what kind of track do you race on? Got a website?

Buggy is awesome. I wish it was more popular around here. It will definitely make you a better driver...but here's the thing I like the most: When you finish your buggy heat, and grab your truck to run in the next heat, your truck feels SO easy to drive...it's like a couch on wheels! It's a cool feeling. :D

[LosiFromHell986]

Jeff, what kind of track do you race on? Got a website?

Buggy is awesome. I wish it was more popular around here. It will definitely make you a better driver...but here's the thing I like the most: When you finish your buggy heat, and grab your truck to run in the next heat, your truck feels SO easy to drive...it's like a couch on wheels! It's a cool feeling. :D
Where are you located? Unfortunately, no site for my local track. It's Family Hobbies in Santee, CA. which is in San Diego.

I'm absolutely stoked on running buggy! The bummer is there isn't any racing this week... rain flooded the track!

[billmck]

i ran the stock setup and the truck ran pretty good. only prob. i had was with pushing into corners and out while the throttle - i had to let off. there are so many adjustments, i don't know where to start. new to truck. i usually drive 1/8 buggy. and i ran my rc 10 for a few months. so now its indoor with hard pack clay. so, i need some more steering, or even if the rear will swing around a little. i got lots of take off grip and when i hit the brakes it will turn.
running 8 rib in ft, and holeshots in rear, everything else is stock setup.

help me make the right adjustments to get steering both on power and off. all suggestions appr.


bill

[winning edge designs]

Bill, before making too many suspension changes, I would try Red or silver directionals if you can. The 8 ribs usually only work on blue groove high bite for me. I like razor ribs, or deirectionals for alot of tracks and sometimes rear all around the truck. So if Holeshots or King Pins work at your track try 4 of them. I don't like my steering grabby, but I like alot of good usefull steering, so usually if I run rears all around I run silver front and red rears, or R3 front and M3 rears, etc.

If you still need steering after tires, try a longer rear camber link, like #2-B and long front arms(VLA)........Jim

[billmck]

thanks for the setup help. i found steering and its going pretty good now. i just need some track time.
just a note: when geared correctly the novak ss plus and 5800 is pretty fast.


bill

[Tim'sLosi]

Hi,

I have a Losi XXXT MF. I was given a Reedy Ti 8X2 motor which I want to put in the truck. Can someone tell me what pinion I should start out with so as not to damage the motor? My SC is a Super Rooster no limit.

Thanks in advance!
Tim

[Casper]

I would start with a 15.

[winning edge designs]

Tim, like Casper posted, a 15 would be a good start.

Be prepared to cut the motor every run, two at most, since an 8 turn is a serious motor and usually reserved for hardcore racing, which means hardcore maintenance.

...Jim

[gkdave]

Hi,
I am fairly new to RC and I have a XXX-T RTR.. I love it but I crashed hard the other day.. The whole chasis is broke.. It broke right behind the front wheels. just snapped.. I hit a curb.. So looking for a chassis to replace it.. And I think I have to replace the front end too..

Where can I get these parts online?? Local shop has to order them so figured I order myself and get a better deal..

Thanks for any help..

[Tim'sLosi]

Check eBay for the best prices

[gkdave]

Tim,
I have looked on Ebay but haven't found anything but complete cars or other parts.. I want to get a good chassis that will last.. i know hitting curbs won't help but dont plan on running in the street again..lol.
thanks for the reply

[Tim'sLosi]

Tim,
I have looked on Ebay but haven't found anything but complete cars or other parts.. I want to get a good chassis that will last.. i know hitting curbs won't help but dont plan on running in the street again..lol.
thanks for the reply
What flavor do you want...
Graphite http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Losi-XXXT-graphite-chassis-NIP-MF2-MF1-Peak_W0QQitemZ6015810858QQcategoryZ34063QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or regular http://cgi.ebay.com/TEAM-LOSI-A-4107-XXX-T-CHASSIS-BRACE-NEW-SEALED_W0QQitemZ6015815225QQcategoryZ44028QQssPage NameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

My son did the same thing, bought him a new chassis off eBay and it hasn't happened since. Must have to hit it just right.

[Casper]

www.stormerhobbies.com
www.horizonhobby.com
www.ultimatehobbies.com

All good places to get parts. You will need to call ultimate for the chassis but if the whole order is over $50 they will ship free.

[gkdave]

Tim and Casper,
Thanks much for the help.. I am hoping now that I have gotten the right parts or all that I need.. I didn't realize how bad I had crashed it.. I just may buy all the parts for the front end just in case.. Guess I should watch where I am driving.. thanks again..

[winning edge designs]

We've all been there gkdave, part of the learning process.

Almost 20 years ago I used to jump my Fox over a sheet of plywood on top of my pick ups bed.....I kept raising the ride hieght and going to stiffer springs trying to lessen the bottoming out from the 10 foot high landings, LOL.

...Jim, jconcepts dot net

[gkdave]

Thanks.. Just seems i have broken this thing too many times already..I broke a threaded rod, then burned the motor, and now the chasis.. Just hope I dont do it again.. But like you said I am learning..

Should I go for the Graphite parts?? Do they last longer??

[Tim'sLosi]

No get the rtr
Graphite is stiff and can be more brittle

[gkdave]

Ok.. wasn't sure.. I see all the graphite and all the other parts not sure what I should buy to make it more durable..

thanks

[Tim'sLosi]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=90354

Lots of XXXT parts for sale if you want to start a pit box

[winning edge designs]

gkdave, i'll save you some time and money and offer you this.

If you do extreme stuff, or hit anything...really hard, something will break.

If you use aluminum arms, the arm mount breaks next, with an aluminum arm mount(pivot block) then the part it bolts to will break, etc. The only way to avoid repairs, is to be easier on the vehicle, this is the same for any class of racing and any brand of vehicle.
I've owned them all and have yet to find one that is indestructible, especially considering what we usually put them thru.

:)....Jim , jconcepts dot net

[Rtsbasic]

I was hoping someone would be able to measure the CVD's for this car for me, both just the cvd bit and the overall length inc axles? I can't find the measurements anywhere. Would really, really help me out a lot with a project of mine :)

Thanks.

[Tim'sLosi]

I was hoping someone would be able to measure the CVD's for this car for me, both just the cvd bit and the overall length inc axles? I can't find the measurements anywhere. Would really, really help me out a lot with a project of mine :)

Thanks.

3.5" to center of cvd pin, 5 5/32" from end to end.

[Rtsbasic]

Thats exactly what I was looking for, thanks mate :) Does anyone happen to know if the XXT and XXXT CVD's are the same? Because Tower has the XXT CVD bone listed as 95mm, but also has a cvd kit for the XXT/XXXT, which doesn't make sense.

Thanks.

[Casper]

Thats exactly what I was looking for, thanks mate :) Does anyone happen to know if the XXT and XXXT CVD's are the same? Because Tower has the XXT CVD bone listed as 95mm, but also has a cvd kit for the XXT/XXXT, which doesn't make sense.

Thanks.
The XXXT and XXT both use the same dog bones. The MF2 uses a different length though. They are shorter.

[TraxxasJessica]

I think it may be posable to use XX buggy dog bones. I haven't tried it yet.

[Rtsbasic]

So they use the same dogbones..which are different length's? Bit confusing. I purchased some cvd's for a XXXT MF last night so will know soon if they're any good to me or not :)

Thanks.

[winning edge designs]

b3racer, if you have a XXXT, or a MF1 they will work, if you have an MF2 they will not.

...Jim

[Rtsbasic]

Ahh I see so the MF2 uses the shorter ones, the XXX-T & MF1 use the same length as the XXT.

Tim'sLosi, are your measurements XXX-T/MF1 or MF2? Thanks.

[Tim'sLosi]

Tim'sLosi, are your measurements XXX-T/MF1 or MF2? Thanks.
Mine are for the XXX-T/XXX-NT axles. Sorry I didn't give them to you in metric;I didn't see you were across the pond.

[Rtsbasic]

No problem, google converts between the measurement systems nice and easy :) The cvd's I've purchased will be the same length as yours then, thanks :)

[gkdave]

gkdave, i'll save you some time and money and offer you this.

If you do extreme stuff, or hit anything...really hard, something will break.

If you use aluminum arms, the arm mount breaks next, with an aluminum arm mount(pivot block) then the part it bolts to will break, etc. The only way to avoid repairs, is to be easier on the vehicle, this is the same for any class of racing and any brand of vehicle.
I've owned them all and have yet to find one that is indestructible, especially considering what we usually put them thru.

:)....Jim , jconcepts dot net

Thanks Jim for the advice.. I am slowly starting to see that.. I don't race my car, just outside with my kids having fun with it.

I did find parts now on Ebay and trying to get some.. appreciate all the help guys.. thanks

[winning edge designs]

Haha, no problem, have fun with it!

I started with plywood jumps in the street myself....about 20 years ago!

Been racing almost as long, once I went to a track I was hooked!

...Jim, jconcepts dot net

[losifreak2004]

I think we all started in the backyard. Trust me..nothing is indestructible, no matter how we'd like them to be.

But I suppose that goes for anything! Enough abuse will break anything..even planets!

[Casper]

That is getting way to deep for a R/C board Aaron! :p

I started my R/C addiction by breaking tyco cars. They lasted about a day and got glued back together and exchanged at toys r us. These racing cars are much more fun since you can buy all the parts you break! LOL

[losifreak2004]

LOL Easy rocket scientist!

I took my Tyco cars apart to see what made them tick. They never went back together the same way...haha.

First "real" toy car was a Junior T!

[Casper]

Nah, never took them apart. Just glued them together to get my money back! LOL first real car was an RC10 team car. Have not stopped racing since.

[Tnxer]

Just picked up a roller xxx-t sport is there any one that sells coloured hop ups for this truck? Also is it worth switching parts to graphite?

[Casper]

You can get blue or yellow bumpers. Blue, yellow, black, or white call cups. That is about it for the simple stuff.

[winning edge designs]

If we're counting everything even before actual raceable cars I had a Cox .049 powered funny car that ran on a tether in about 1974-75, LOL. We used a pillow to stop it after the parachute slowed it initially. A bead on the tether activated the chute. I flew control line airplanes around that time with my dad too.

Man i'm old.

...Jim

[Tim'sLosi]

Remember the Shrike?

[losifreak2004]

They're not selling the red stuff anymore? I haven't seen either way.

I stocked up on yellow bumpers to last me for a while...hehe.

[Tnxer]

I want the yellow hopups where can i find them?

[Rtsbasic]

Well, you get a can of yellow spraypaint..think you can figure out the rest :P

Seriously though various RPM bits will fit onto the car, which you can get in yellow. www.rpmrcproducts.com

[Casper]

Losi used to sell them. contact losi to see if they still have them.

Here are the part numbers

LOSA4119 Bumper,Guard,& Body Mnts Yel:XXX 6.50
LOSA4120 Bumper,Guard & Body Mnts Bl:XXX 6.50
LOSA4121 Bumper Guard & Body Mounts,Red: 6.50

[TraxxasJessica]

Is anyon else have problems keeping rear tie rods stright on there MF2. Mine bent in two weeks. :confused: My XX never bent them.

[losifreak2004]

Geometry changes can put more strain on turnbuckles..probably the difference between the XX and XXX that you're referring to.

I've had good luck running Lunsford's HD turnbuckles on my cars, that should be a good fix for you to try.

[TraxxasJessica]

And if it came with longsfords?

[losifreak2004]

The Lunsfords that come with the BK, MF, and AD kits are like those from Lunsford's Punisher line. Their HD turnbuckles are bigger and stronger.

[winning edge designs]

And the new extra ridgid ballcups are sweet too!

...Jim

[losifreak2004]

Hehe oh yeah..those should be standard issue. Best ballcups ever.

[Racin Rev]

who makes the ball cups

[winning edge designs]

TeamLosi makes them, they are part #A6016 "extra ridgid" ballcups. These things are awesome and a bit tuffer then other materials. They don't come off nealry as easy.

...Jim

[Casper]

The HD lunsfords you are refering to are called superduty. They are 3.5mm instead of 3mm. These are almost a must if you are running the new grey ballcups as I started snapping tie rods when I switched to the grey ball cups!

[losifreak2004]

Superduty..that's what it is..haha. They're tough!

[Casper]

Just trying to help! :)

[winning edge designs]

Not sure if this pic will work, but this shows how tuff they are by the fact I drove away afterwards, LOL.

Anyway, it tweaked the truck so bad in this pic it's un real that nothing broke. i'll e mail to anyone who wants to see it.

wedjim@cfl.rr.com

..Jim, jconcepts dot net

[TraxxasJessica]

Thank you for the help. It just sucks that with the price of that truck I stall have put more in it for beter tie rods. :mad:

[winning edge designs]

TraxxasJessica, you don;t have to modify the truck, but if you hit some stuff it will make it tuffer for you.

I run the stock lunsford turnbuckles and either white or new grey ballcups on mine with no trouble. But, I usually am not very happy if I crash more then twice an entire day in tuck. Hopefully both times in practice, LOL.

...Jim

[TraxxasJessica]

It's my brother runing the truck, Im just the piggy bank. :rolleyes:

[winning edge designs]

hahaha....Anything we can do to help on here, just ask.

... Jim

[Tnxer]

Was wondering if the rear xxx-nt arms will fit on the xxx-t cause my lhs only had those in stock

[Casper]

No the XXXNT uses different arms then the XXX-T. The inner support spacing is not the same.

[Tnxer]

I'm gonna order the yellow dish wheels from losi the tires that go on there are they just standard 2.2 wheels also who sells black dish wheels and what tires are most of u running i was thinking of the bowties for the rear not sure what for the front?

[winning edge designs]

Tnxer, I like TL step pins on alot of tracks, bot on higher bite the new King pins are awesome.
The truck wheels are all 2.2 in 1/10th scale.

For front tires I Like the TL razor pins or the same as the rear on alot of tracks, so step pins all around, etc.

...Jim

[Tnxer]

K thanks. I have another ? i find the turning radius not that good i bought mine used and its got a hpi servo in it i tried to adjust the servo horn but still not a very good turning radius my evader turns alot sharper then my xxx-t any ideas or tips?

[winning edge designs]

Tnxer, what radio are you using? Most have an endpoint setting or even dual rate, which control total steering throw. Check your radio for trim knobs that say EPA or Dual Rate(D/R, etc) to see if they have been or need to be moved.

...Jim, jconcepts dot net

[Tnxer]

Well i fixed it what i did was replace the stock servo horn with an aftermarket one steers way better now and sharper seem like there was some play in the stock one.....

[Tnxer]

Was wondering what motors are u guys running cause i bought mine used it came with a cheap jaguar motor goes pretty though think its a 15 turn not sure but i have a new never used speed gem pro serpentine 14t double will this be good for the xxxt or will it be hard on the gears?

[Casper]

That will not be too much at all. I run 10-12 turns when I run mod truck with no problems. Just make sure the slipper give before the diff slipps other wise you will be rebuilding your diff often. This is true even for stock motors. You speed gems 14T will be a great motor for playing with!

[philp37]

Any one know if MF2 arms fit evader?
I know that MF1 or XXXT arms do, as to the xxt cr arms.
I think that the same answer for the question: do mf2 arms fit on the xxxt? will also suffice.

[Casper]

Yes they are a direct replacement part.

[winning edge designs]

True, all the XXXT parts interchange, MF1, MF2, etc. The only exceptions are if you use a part that requires another to work though. This is mostly in the rear suspension mount and trans area.

...Jim

[Casper]

All the suspension pieces are interchangable. Most drive train parts are not.

[Y2KGTP]

I am getting back into racing with my 2 boys, and have gotten them XXX-T II's for x-mas. I'm looking for suggested upgrades to keep the trucks together, as they learn to drive. I have down the RPM Front bumper.....but what else frequently breaks on the truck I should look at?

[winning edge designs]

Y2KGTP, get some ball cups and maybe some body clips(lost easily) and you should be set depending on how rough they are with them. They may break a rear pivot block or bend some hinge pins.
I could list a bunch of parts that will change what part breaks, like super beef aluminum, etc. but the truth is replacing the fairly inexpensive stock parts is cheaper in the long run.

...Jim
jconcepts dot net

[Casper]

The truck really is pretty durable. I do not see a lot of broken trucks at the track. It is usually something silly like a ball stud or a ball cup pop off. If you break a front arm get the updated MF2 arms as they are a lot stronger. Again the truck is pretty strong the way it is. Unless they are jumping it off the house or running hot modified it should take some pretty good abuse. Like Jim said if you put alum arms and stuff on it then other things start to break with enough abuse. Good luck with the the truck they are lots of fun.

[Y2KGTP]

Thanks for the replies.....I ran into another "snag" now....

I noticed the RTR ESC has reverse. I assume this is a relabeled Novak XRS speed control, and would like to "disable" reverse if possible. any ideas? I was thinking I could dial out the reverse as much as possible, and hopefully just leave the brake available........

[4 stroken ron]

If it is like the one I just got, it works like this. when you go from "forward" to reverse it will be in "brake". Now if you come back to neutral and go to reverse again it will back up. At least that is what mine does. It is explaned better in the "XXX-T operation guide", page 3, that came with it.
Is your ESC like this one?
Ron

[Y2KGTP]

If it is like the one I just got, it works like this. when you go from "forward" to reverse it will be in "brake". Now if you come back to neutral and go to reverse again it will back up. At least that is what mine does. It is explained better in the "XXX-T operation guide", page 3, that came with it.
Is your ESC like this one?
Ron

Yes, I have the exact same one......is there a way to "dial out" the reverse? I just want to ovoid some "incidents" on the track......

[4 stroken ron]

......is there a way to "dial out" the reverse?

That is a good question. I don't know. It does not address that in this operation guide. But in FIVE SEPERATE places in this guide it tells you to call Horizon Hobby Customer Service if you need assitance with your speed controller.
They give the # as 877-504-0233
Good Luck, Let me know if you findout anything.
In the mean-time send me your E-Mail address to
sunshine@pcpartner.net
and I will make a copy of this page in the Operation guide and send to you. File would be to big to post here.

Ron

[Y2KGTP]

That is a good question. I don't know. It does not address that in this operation guide. But in FIVE SEPERATE places in this guide it tells you to call Horizon Hobby Customer Service if you need assitance with your speed controller.
They give the # as 877-504-0233
Good Luck, Let me know if you findout anything.
In the mean-time send me your E-Mail address to
sunshine@pcpartner.net
and I will make a copy of this page in the Operation guide and send to you. File would be to big to post here.

Ron

Thanks.....Email sent

[4 stroken ron]

Thanks.....Email sent
Didn't get the email from you, try again.
sunshine@pcpartner.net
Ron

[4 stroken ron]

Y2KGTP: Here you are, this is the file on the Losi site You will need acrobate reader and It will open right up for you, and them print it.
http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Files/operationguide.pdf
Ron

[Y2KGTP]

Y2KGTP: Here you are, this is the file on the Losi site You will need acrobate reader and It will open right up for you, and them print it.
http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Files/operationguide.pdf
Ron

Thanks....it is appreciated....

I'm just surprised they put a reverse ESC in the trucks......I can see it messing up the diff settings a bit possibly......I'm half tempted to yank them out and sell them on ebay, and replace with a forward only with brake before they get used.

[Casper]

The reverse will not effect the diff. The only issue it will have is on the motor as they have advanced timing so a lot of reverse action will heat up the motor a lot. Since most RTR's never see a track for competition it they include a reversing speedo for bashing. Since they have setup this ESC to require you to hit the brake twice to get into reverse they did not allow for a lockout setting. It reduces the need to program the speedo and I am sure helped keep that thing as small and thin as it is. You should see a performance increase from switching to a high end racing ESC though so it might be a good idea anyway. A lot of racing ESC's put out 6V in the BEC also which will speed up your servos as well.

[Y2KGTP]

The reverse will not effect the diff. The only issue it will have is on the motor as they have advanced timing so a lot of reverse action will heat up the motor a lot. Since most RTR's never see a track for competition it they include a reversing speedo for bashing. Since they have setup this ESC to require you to hit the brake twice to get into reverse they did not allow for a lockout setting. It reduces the need to program the speedo and I am sure helped keep that thing as small and thin as it is. You should see a performance increase from switching to a high end racing ESC though so it might be a good idea anyway. A lot of racing ESC's put out 6V in the BEC also which will speed up your servos as well.

Thanks for the reply......I'm really tempted to get something to replace these....as my 2 boys will irreverently pop into reverse during a race, if the option is there.....it's a little 2 easy to get into reverse just playing with it for a couple minutes as I can tell.....

[4 stroken ron]

Thanks for the reply......I'm really tempted to get something to replace these....as my 2 boys will irreverently pop into reverse during a race, if the option is there.....it's a little 2 easy to get into reverse just playing with it for a couple minutes as I can tell.....


I just called Horizon tech support and, just as Casper explained to us, the reverse can not be disabled. :mad: So now what? I don't want to spend a fortune on a new ESP. :eek: Is there a reasonablity priced ESC out there that will work well in the stock class? :confused:

Ron

[Y2KGTP]

I just called Horizon tech support and, just as Casper explained to us, the reverse can not be disabled. :mad: So now what? I don't want to spend a fortune on a new ESP. :eek: Is there a reasonablity priced ESC out there that will work well in the stock class? :confused:

Ron

I am looking around as well......I'm just not liking the fact that these can go into reverse....

I bought a GT7 for myself, but I really did not plan on popping for 2 more for my 2 boys...

[Casper]

The ESC you have (it is actually the novak XPS labled for the RTR) will work great for entry level racing. Just do not use the reverse. Since you need to hit reverse twice to actualy go backward it will act like a fwd only speedo during the race. Just tell your boys to not use the reverse. Any local program will allow you to use your RTR as it comes out of the package for novice or intermediate. The only catch is they may penalize you if you acually use the reverse to free yourself from a pipe or such. I would not go out and spend the money just yet. Race them as they are and have some fun. That is what this is all about!

[Y2KGTP]

The ESC you have (it is actually the novak XPS labled for the RTR) will work great for entry level racing. Just do not use the reverse. Since you need to hit reverse twice to actualy go backward it will act like a fwd only speedo during the race. Just tell your boys to not use the reverse. Any local program will allow you to use your RTR as it comes out of the package for novice or intermediate. The only catch is they may penalize you if you acually use the reverse to free yourself from a pipe or such. I would not go out and spend the money just yet. Race them as they are and have some fun. That is what this is all about!

Good point.....they will start in rookie class, and I will remind them not to use reverse....I'm sure others will yell if they back it up :D

[Casper]

You will find there are lots of people that will back up in novice but they should learn not to. It is ok in practice just make sure you do not get in the way of others! :)

[RON F]

You can dial out the reverse on your transmitter,if you have the JRX2I.ITis detailed in the manual.

[Y2KGTP]

You can dial out the reverse on your transmitter,if you have the JRX2I.ITis detailed in the manual.

I'll check it out! Hopefully it does not affect braking as well......

[Y2KGTP]

Got a reply:

Hi,
Unfortunately, The reverse cannot be disabled on the XRS. The XRS is not designed for racing application. It is a sport ESC.

Your option is to upgrade to the GTS which does not have reverse.

Please let me know if you have any further questions, we are glad to help. Complete Product return, service, and pricing information can be found in the Customer Service Section of our website. Instruction manuals can be found in the Download Section of the website as well. All links are listed below.

Thank you,
Novak Electronics

[sircrashalot]

Just got back into R/C cars after many years with a xxx-t. Was shocked that out of the box my old Tamiya BigWig that I just got back running has more torque + top end, so I just put in a speed gems chrominum 16t double....doesnt seem much different than the stock motor though. ANybody have gearing or other suggestions- I am looking for way more torque and way more top end? I understand that the speed control the truck came with is good to 15 turn but is there a better motor and/or gearing choice that will give me a significant change? Otherwise before dumping cash into a better ESC & motor or brushless I may just go for a nitro buggy or truck?

[winning edge designs]

This just goes to show how hard it is to judge speed and acceleration by eye. :)

I would try a 22 with a 16 turn if you aren't already.

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[sircrashalot]

lol thanks for the quick reply...you doubt the power of the 1980's BigWig though huh? Thing is ridiculous quick off the line....could have something to do with the old school mechanical speed control though vs. the more smooth electronic on the xxx-t + slipper.
Anyway, thanks for the gearing help- I have a bunch of pinions on the way so that I can experiment.

[winning edge designs]

No, I had a BigWig, they are awesome and 4wd will always blaze off the line better then 2w, especially on dirt!

Those mechanical speedos actually have a ton of resistance so it's more likely about the 4wd or just a better motor in it. I've had some slug motors over the years, no matter what wind, so that's possible.

If I remember correctly the BigWig uses special pinions?

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[Y2KGTP]

On the Losi RTR ESC's, I'm just going to let my boys drive them as is.....and if it creates much of an issue, I'll just swap in GT7's.....I have a good location to get a cheap price on them anyways (where I got mine from)

[Casper]

Until they get out of novice/rookie I would have a hard time believing anyone will even mention it.

[Breakin2]

Anyone get the wheel extenders to run the NT's quick change wheels? I was thinking of getting one to share wheels with my NT.

[Casper]

Yeah I run them. I love it. They add a little rotating mass but the common wheels are great and I do not need to worry about broken drive pins or stripped wheels anymore! I highly recommend them!

[Breakin2]

Casper - thanks for the info. Just ordered them. :)

[Y2KGTP]

Anyone have a good blue-groove setup for a XXX-T? Basically a MF1 Truck....will be running pink tapers rear\red directionals front for tires.....

[winning edge designs]

Y2KGTP, first thing i'd do is change out the front tires, :). Go to silver tapers up front or pink tapers all around.
For tuning you can use the older MF1 Matt Francis set up on the TEamLosi site. But I like my tweaked version of it, which changes the camber link in back to #2-B and red springs all around the truck. Also i'm using 30 wt oil with 56 pistons all shocks. 0 anti squat and 1 degree of toe in up front.


Hope this helps, Jim

jconcepts dot net

[Y2KGTP]

Y2KGTP, first thing i'd do is change out the front tires, :). Go to silver tapers up front or pink tapers all around.
For tuning you can use the older MF1 Matt Francis set up on the TEamLosi site. But I like my tweaked version of it, which changes the camber link in back to #2-B and red springs all around the truck. Also i'm using 30 wt oil with 56 pistons all shocks. 0 anti squat and 1 degree of toe in up front.


Hope this helps, Jim

jconcepts dot net

Thanks....I went with these tires (Pink tapers\red directionals) as that is what most racers are running successfully at our track.

On a seperate note, Is there a huge difference from the org XXX-T to the MF2 truck? I bought a used "MF1" off of ebay..with some graphite parts...it's in real nice shape, but really was a Losi SPEC truck to start.

[Casper]

You get revised from arms (stronger with VLA holes) and the rest of the changes are to the rear end. They made a lot of small changes to the rear end. Some people like is some poeple don't.

[Y2KGTP]

You get revised from arms (stronger with VLA holes) and the rest of the changes are to the rear end. They made a lot of small changes to the rear end. Some people like is some poeple don't.

Is the trans any better\improved? usually the changes are so minor from 1 version to the next......

[Casper]

The tranny is lower and the diff gear is smaller and the idler gear is larger. You need ot change a tooth on the pinion to get the same gear ratio's. Any one change is small but the changes as a whole make the difference. The problem is if you change to the GenII rear end you need to do it all. The parts are not interchangable.

[USATorque55]

Whats the current popular brushless sysetm in the triple X-T?

[Re-Mix]

I ran a basic 4200 / MGM 80. But the basic 5300 would be fast and hang with the Novak GTB and LRP Neo. I like the basic's since they are smaller and lighter than their 540 counterparts, yet still mount up the same and have more power. Well worth the price in my mind.

Otherwise the GTB 5.5 is popular, as well as the LRP Neo. The feigao 380c 7t and Mtroniks Genesis Pro will also work.

check out rc-monster.com and starluckrc.com

[Y2KGTP]

Just curious.....where do you mount your on\off switch? I moved the switch on the RTR's from the chassis behind the speed control to on top of the transmission, facing back. I figured it would be easier for the kids to turn on\off with the body on.

I even put a little arrow on the back of the body <---ON to make things easier....

[Casper]

I just put it on the chassis in front of the speedo. With trucks it is pretty easy to reach inside the body. I used to put it on the tranny many years ago but got tired of putting it back in place when I needed to service the tranny.

[Tylernol]

Hi-

I'm new to rc cars and know very little about them at this point in time. I have a xxx-t rtr...I've messed around with it a lot and I would like to upgrade it a little bit. I have already gotten the stock revenge of the monster pro motor with a #17 gear on it. I know I need new tires because the ones i have on it right now are giving little traction. I was just wondering what I should upgrade first. Maybe the servo? How about new springs or shocks? What is going to make the biggest difference in upgrades?
if someone could answer my questions that would be great!
thanks,
Tyler

[Casper]

The kit servo is not bad. Tires will make the biggest difference. Tires and track time are going to make the biggest difference if you are racing. If you are fooling around and want to go faster then a new speedo so you can run hotter motors. Shocks are not needed but a couple different springs to choose from for tuning the suspension are always a good thing. Get one harder and one softer from the kit springs to see what the changes do.

[Y2KGTP]

Hi-

I'm new to rc cars and know very little about them at this point in time. I have a xxx-t rtr...I've messed around with it a lot and I would like to upgrade it a little bit. I have already gotten the stock revenge of the monster pro motor with a #17 gear on it. I know I need new tires because the ones i have on it right now are giving little traction. I was just wondering what I should upgrade first. Maybe the servo? How about new springs or shocks? What is going to make the biggest difference in upgrades?
if someone could answer my questions that would be great!
thanks,
Tyler

If the XXX-T RTR is version 2, the steering servo should be fine (it's a Z590 steel servo)

What type of track are you running on?

[Tylernol]

If the XXX-T RTR is version 2, the steering servo should be fine (it's a Z590 steel servo)

What type of track are you running on?



Its a really short track! The straight away is around 25-30 feet is all. I was out for some practice the other night and another kid had the same truck as I did but it was much faster so I asked him what motor he was running and it was the monster (same as mine).. Do tires make all that much difference? I mean my tires have tread on them but they are just the original tires that came with the RTR kit.

[Y2KGTP]

Its a really short track! The straight away is around 25-30 feet is all. I was out for some practice the other night and another kid had the same truck as I did but it was much faster so I asked him what motor he was running and it was the monster (same as mine).. Do tires make all that much difference? I mean my tires have tread on them but they are just the original tires that came with the RTR kit.

Is the track loose dirt, or a hard packed clay? If it's hard packed, your tires just won't "hook" at all.....Our local track is a nice Blue-groove track (hard packed clay) and you need a soft, almost no tread tire to get good traction.

Losi Pink tapers in the rear & some sort of pink directional would be good for this type.

[Tylernol]

Is the track loose dirt, or a hard packed clay? If it's hard packed, your tires just won't "hook" at all.....Our local track is a nice Blue-groove track (hard packed clay) and you need a soft, almost no tread tire to get good traction.

Losi Pink tapers in the rear & some sort of pink directional would be good for this type.


Yeah, the track is make of hard clay. Thanks for the tip!

[4 stroken ron]

There is an indoor carpet track near me that I am going to visit Sunday. One of the classes they run is 1/10 stadium trucks. In their "tips" section they talk about how foam tires are better on the carpet than rubber tires, and they do not allow nobby tires at all. Were does one find foam tires for a XXX-T? :confused:
Thanks
Ron

[Y2KGTP]

There is an indoor carpet track near me that I am going to visit Sunday. One of the classes they run is 1/10 stadium trucks. In their "tips" section they talk about how foam tires are better on the carpet than rubber tires, and they do not allow nobby tires at all. Were does one find foam tires for a XXX-T? :confused:
Thanks
Ron

I would think the LHS would have the items in stock, as that is what most racers would be using here.....or call the track if possible, and see where you can get a set......

[FCTRYSEALD]

I have just recently purchased both kits. I bought both because they were similar in price and I couldn't make up my mind. Now I need to start putting one of them together and sell the other one. I still have the original RC10T that came out back in the early 1990's, so I was leaning towards the Losi only because I never had a chance to run one. So I thought I would just put the question out there for you guys that have these trucks, and hopefully make my decision easier.

Thanks

[philp37]

I have just recently purchased both kits. I bought both because they were similar in price and I couldn't make up my mind. Now I need to start putting one of them together and sell the other one. I still have the original RC10T that came out back in the early 1990's, so I was leaning towards the Losi only because I never had a chance to run one. So I thought I would just put the question out there for you guys that have these trucks, and hopefully make my decision easier.

Thanks

Sell them both. Get the Duratrax Evader ST Pro. LOL, not what you wanted to hear, I know.

[Y2KGTP]

I have just recently purchased both kits. I bought both because they were similar in price and I couldn't make up my mind. Now I need to start putting one of them together and sell the other one. I still have the original RC10T that came out back in the early 1990's, so I was leaning towards the Losi only because I never had a chance to run one. So I thought I would just put the question out there for you guys that have these trucks, and hopefully make my decision easier.

Thanks

What is the most popular at your local track? Mine is AE, but I still run a Losi myself :D

[Re-Mix]

Whatever you do, do not buy a duratrax product please. It'd be like selling a ferrari for a dodge neo. Personally, I think the losi truck is a bit nice straight from the box, and a bit more durable.

[winning edge designs]

FCTRYSEALD. I would run the Losi truck myself, it is an awesome truck. To be honest, you could obviously do well with either though. I would stay away from trucks based on 10 year old technology(ie Evader) unless you are an all out novice and won't mind buying into a racing truck later on when your skillz improve!

...Jim
jconcepts dot net

[philp37]

Take the best of both worlds. Keep the AE shocks and put them on the xxxt.

[4 stroken ron]

Whatever you do, do not buy a duratrax product please. It'd be like selling a ferrari for a dodge neo. Personally, I think the losi truck is a bit nice straight from the box, and a bit more durable.


I agree. Keep the LOSI.
Now I don't want to steal the thread but can't change subject anyway.
But here goes.
The motor in my new XXX-T rtr just quit. :mad: :mad:. It only has about a half hour run time. I don't know how long these things are supposed to last, but I was hoping for more than this. I will tear in down tonight to see whatever I can see. Is there anything I should be looking for. I don't know much about electric motors. It didn't seem to be hot or anything. It was running OK Then started getting slower and slower. I thought it was near the end of the battery and didn't think much about it, Put in a fresh battery and, nothing. I put a volt meter on the motor and I am getting 7.99 there.
If it is time to get a new motor what should I get? At the local track they don't have a stock class, the 19 turn motors are allowed. I don't want any mods. Everything I see about them is a lot of maintenance and $$$$$. Is there a good cheap 19 turn that is easy on maintenance? What about the P2K2 29 turn from tower? Two for $55 doesn't sound bad. But are they a good motor? SOO many question and I have a race at the indoor track Tuesday night. :mad: :mad:
Thanks for all the help.
Ron

[winning edge designs]

philp37, that is differnet from what I have seen, in fact it is the Losi shocks finding their way onto MANY A/E vehicles, but i've never seen an A/E shock on any Losi. I have biult ALOT of both, the Losi cartridge design is fantastic, easily repeatable and holds up very well, but is the easiest to rebiuld when it is time as well. I can't count how many torn O rings i've had biulding the A/E shocks. This is the only real difference, since both are air emulsion shocks, unless you modify the A/E ones.

4 stroken ron, check for worn brushes, or cracked ones as well. It sounds like you have a case of the brush maintenance blues.

...Jim

[4 stroken ron]

philp37, that is differnet from what I have seen, in fact it is the Losi shocks finding their way onto MANY A/E vehicles, but i've never seen an A/E shock on any Losi. I have biult ALOT of both, the Losi cartridge design is fantastic, easily repeatable and holds up very well, but is the easiest to rebiuld when it is time as well. I can't count how many torn O rings i've had biulding the A/E shocks. This is the only real difference, since both are air emulsion shocks, unless you modify the A/E ones.

4 stroken ron, check for worn brushes, or cracked ones as well. It sounds like you have a case of the brush maintenance blues.

...Jim
Jim, THANKS you are right. I had one of the springs pop out somehow. It was a little bent but I straightened it, put it back and it runs great again. The brushes seemed OK. Next time I am at the LHS I will get new springs.
Ron

[winning edge designs]

Cool, glad it worked out for you and didn't cost a bunch!

...Jim

[Y2KGTP]

You may want to look at a new 19T motor in the future, however....the 19T that comes with the RTR II's has bushings, not bearings in it. So you are giving up a slight advantage to other drivers there........just a thought (I have 2 of these for my boys)

[4 stroken ron]

I thought about the P2K2 motors. Aren't they better than the stock motor?
What 19 turn would you recommend?
Ron

[4 stroken ron]

BTW Y2KGTP I have my XXX-T listed on E-bay. If it sells I am going for a REVO. :D
Here is a link if you need it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOSI-XXX-T-rtr2_W0QQitemZ6034753736QQcategoryZ49217QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If it doesn't sell I will be looking for a motor.
Thanks
Ron

[Y2KGTP]

BTW Y2KGTP I have my XXX-T listed on E-bay. If it sells I am going for a REVO. :D
Here is a link if you need it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOSI-XXX-T-rtr2_W0QQitemZ6034753736QQcategoryZ49217QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If it doesn't sell I will be looking for a motor.
Thanks
Ron

Revo's are nice....I used to part them out a while ago......very well put together trucks....

But are you looking to get into racing, at all ? If I was getting into monster trucks\truggy, I would prob get http://sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1211