Team Losi XXXT Forum v2.0

[4 stroken ron]

Revo's are nice....I used to part them out a while ago......very well put together trucks....

But are you looking to get into racing, at all ? If I was getting into monster trucks\truggy, I would prob get http://sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1211


GEEE WHIZZZ That looks good too. How is a guy supposed to make a decision :) :) I had considered a REVO because there are several others racing them here. and a lot of support from local hobby shops.
But, they carry Mayhems TOO..... :confused: :confused:
This search for the right truck is fun. One of these days I will just pull the trigger and say THIS is it. :)
Ron

[Y2KGTP]

GEEE WHIZZZ That looks good too. How is a guy supposed to make a decision :) :) I had considered a REVO because there are several others racing them here. and a lot of support from local hobby shops.
But, they carry Mayhems TOO..... :confused: :confused:
This search for the right truck is fun. One of these days I will just pull the trigger and say THIS is it. :)
Ron

I just say the Mayhem in this version, as it does not come with a junk radio you will need to replace, if you don't already have a nice one.....and it's a spektrum setup.....no glitches, no frequency clips, no waiting........I wish they did this with some of the Losi RTR stuff........I had to go out and swap the radios myself :D

I sold the JR radios that came with the trucks (my 2 boys RTR's), bought spektrum setups, and sold the extra receiver to help offset the cost as well.....

[winning edge designs]

Just remember a 1/8th scale truck like the Mayhem races in a different class then the Revo, or LST would.
Most of the 1/8th truck racers have .28 engines, $120 servos and alot of other things to help insure a win.
The monster trucks are a little more laid back, but seem to be getting a little more serious, but not as quickly.

jmho, Jim

[Tim'sLosi]

Okay, help needed. I want to buy a Team Checkpoint motor for my MF1. I mainly bash but will now be running on a fairly large track with a big tabletop. What turn would be best and with what pinion? I'm mainly a nitro guy so I appreciate the help. Tim

The track http://www.nuclear-rc.com/images/stories/track1105.JPG

[Casper]

I would get a 10-11 turn for a large track like that. Going lower then 10 really starts eating batteries and requires more motor maintaince even with a CP. The CP motor is not maintaince free. You will still want to have the comm cut on a fairly regular basis. Maybe ever 10 runs or so but the brushes will last 50+ runs. Also get the highest Mah batteries you can find. Try to get some of the new IB4200. If you are just bashing you do not need high end matched packs but these will give you the most runtime. Start gearing about 7 over the wind. So 17 with a 10 turn and 18 with a 11 turn.

[Tim'sLosi]

Okay, thanks for the info! I have a great coupon for Tower I am gonna use.
Tim

[Y2KGTP]

4200's might be a bit expensive for bashing, or if you are on any kind of a budget....people seem to get 8-10 minutes easy on 3300's with 10/11 turn motors, and most racing for electric is only 5-6 minutes at most......you can get 3700 sport packs for 35$ or less if you look around....

Just my thoughts.....

[Tim'sLosi]

Actually for batteries I am getting a pair of these http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=208344

I love LiPo in my RC18T and can only imagine it is as awesome in 1/10

[Casper]

That works as well. The only issue you will have with running really high mah batteries is that you will need to keep an eye on the temp of the motor. If the motor is geared properly it should not get TOOO hot but heat in the motor will be an issue. IF you are just bashing and wanting to play with the gas trucks you may want to look into a brushless system? A lot of guys have really liked the Novak systems. The 5.5 or the insane 4.5 systems would both work great on a large track like this.

[Tim'sLosi]

Are Novaks reliable though? I have read bad stories on here.

[Y2KGTP]

Actually for batteries I am getting a pair of these http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=208344

I love LiPo in my RC18T and can only imagine it is as awesome in 1/10

I was thinking of 1 or 2 of those myself.....I already have Triton chargers so am covered there as well.....I just wish I bought a Brushed\brushless ESC combo, so I could just play with brushless as well.....oh well....... :rolleyes:

[winning edge designs]

I have heard stories about both Novak and LRP, they are still sorting out the temp issue. My LRP unit has thermaled on me using the 11 turn(2 star?) geared with a 19 in my MF2, I went to an 18 and it seems ok now though. I have also picked up a fan to use with it.

They will continue to get better with time(aka R&D) i'm positive.

...Jim

[Y2KGTP]

I have heard stories about both Novak and LRP, they are still sorting out the temp issue. My LRP unit has thermaled on me using the 11 turn(2 star?) geared with a 19 in my MF2, I went to an 18 and it seems ok now though. I have also picked up a fan to use with it.

They will continue to get better with time(aka R&D) i'm positive.

...Jim

I guess just a seperate brusless setup for play then.....I have a Novak GT7 for brushed stuff.....

[Re-Mix]

Personally I'd steer away from the novak and lrp setups. A lot more companies have been making brushless for 6+ years and know their stuff. Yes, they are sensorless, but they run very smoothly (you would be amazed). Personally I'd reccomend a Lehner Basic 5300 and Mtroniks Genesis Pro. This will be lighter and smaller than a comparable GTB Velocity setup, but still just as fast.

I ran a Lehner Basic 4200 and MGM 80 Compro on my mf1 (I believe I sold the truck to you y2k) and it was a great system for me (about 32mph 12 turn maybe)

[Y2KGTP]

Personally I'd steer away from the novak and lrp setups. A lot more companies have been making brushless for 6+ years and know their stuff. Yes, they are sensorless, but they run very smoothly (you would be amazed). Personally I'd reccomend a Lehner Basic 5300 and Mtroniks Genesis Pro. This will be lighter and smaller than a comparable GTB Velocity setup, but still just as fast.

I ran a Lehner Basic 4200 and MGM 80 Compro on my mf1 (I believe I sold the truck to you y2k) and it was a great system for me (about 32mph 12 turn maybe)

Yep....truck is still sitting on my workbench.....have not had time to get to the track lately.....GT7 & Spektrum radio all installed...... :D

[schmie11]

Is this good for a starter

[winning edge designs]

Yes.

[Tim'sLosi]

Just read about the Castle Mamba Max. I think I will try that when it comes out this spring.

[bigair78]

If I bought a MF1 or 2 does either come with alluminum rear pivot block. I had the orginal xxx-t when it first came out and that was the only thing I constantly broke. I am wanting to get either a t4 or a xxx-t again but I don't want it if the same problem persists.

[Casper]

The MF1 comes with a plastic pivot block and I may have broke one in about 2 years of racing. The MF2 comes with an alum rear pivot block for the rear (it is a two piece rear pivot for the MF2) and the front is plastic. (seems backwards to me but) but the only one I broke was due to the kit hinge pins being too short. (They quickly fixed that problem). My point is the newer pivot blocks are much stronger.

[winning edge designs]

The MF2 comes with a redesigned pivot system using seperate front and rear blocks. The front is strong due to the plastic hinge pin mount(anti squat block) being bolted in place from outside the inner hinge pins. The rear mount(toe block) is aluminum since the same can't be done in the rear block.

It is very strong, but it can be broken just as it can on the T4, i've seen them all break under certain conditions or in bad wrecks.

The rear hubs, front and rear arms and shock towers have all benn improved since the MF1.

Hope this helps,
Jim

[pedeguy9114]

Yo, I just got a MF1. What would be a good gearing ratio for the xxx-t mf1 with a SS5800 setup in it?

Thanks.

[FCTRYSEALD]

Some people have mentioned that if I get the XXXT MF2, that I should replace the chassis with a plastic one. If this is the case, where do I go about finding one?

Thanks

[Y2KGTP]

Some people have mentioned that if I get the XXXT MF2, that I should replace the chassis with a plastic one. If this is the case, where do I go about finding one?

Thanks

Why replace something that is brand new, and not broken? If you break it, then replace it :D

[pedeguy9114]

Anyone? What is a good gearing for the xxx-t mf1 with a ss5800 setup in it?

[bigair78]

Anyone? What is a good gearing for the xxx-t mf1 with a ss5800 setup in it?

Based on this you should go 18 of 19/86.

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/updated_motor_specgearing.pdf

[winning edge designs]

Fctryseald, the stock graphite filled chassis is great, I doubt you would be able to tell much difference in truck, even with a few years of experience.

The reason is more flexible means easier to handle on high bite and more traction on low bite. This is why some go to the plastic chassis, but in all honesty only the most seasoned pros benifit from doing this. Unless your trying to beat Ryan Cavalieri then the tires you choose and your driving will be the main factor, once you get to where you may make the main at the Mod nats things like this will matter more, jmho.

Enjoy it box stock, I do...Jim

[winning edge designs]

pedeguy, I use an LRP system in my MF2, the 2 star, or 11 turn, it seemed to like about 1-2 teeth lower then the same motor in brushed form to keep the speedo from thermaling.

I also noticed that the truck was more driveable with lower gearing, which is odd. I think the speed control on these brushless systems is designed to give you a certain RPM at a certain amount of trigger throw. This causes a taller(larger pinion) gear to spin the tires more then the correct gearing....just a theory.

...Jim

[FCTRYSEALD]

Thanks Jim, Thats the answer I was looking for!

[Y2KGTP]

Anyone? What is a good gearing for the xxx-t mf1 with a ss5800 setup in it?

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/info_updates/ss_update.htm

[Monsterbrad]

Any of you guys
???????
I have been looking at getting into truck racing with a brushless system.
I have also been told for the money you can't beat the RTR XXXT 2 version.
Just wondering what some of your thoughts were that race these trucks all the time.
I am heavily into nitro but would like to try something different
thanks

[losifreak2004]

It depends if you'd need the radio system to go with your new electric truck. Since you're getting a brushless motor/ESC combo, you might be better off picking up an MF2 and putting your own electronics in it. The MF2 comes with all of Losi's hop-up goodies and is ready to take on the club racers at pretty much any track, right out of the box.

[Monsterbrad]

thanks
Now I just have to decide which brushless system to go with.
Most likely Novak.
have to get batteries also
sugestions????

[Re-Mix]

The best 6 cell setup out there is either the Novak GTB or LRP Neo. Even though I love sensoreless, i'd stick with sensored for 6 cell racing, the smoothness helps. For batteries I'd get nothing worse than the latest GP3700, with 4200 and 4300's coming out, I'd get the best now. Or go lipo early.

[Casper]

Go lipo-- If you are going to run outlaw brushless you might as well go all the way! :)

[losifreak2004]

I know there are lots of tracks back east that run brushless trucks in a "Pro Truck" class...they run Schulze or Hacker brushless systems and 8000 mah Li-Po packs.

[Monsterbrad]

This hobby keeps me broke I tell ya
but i still love it
Kyosho is comming out with a truggy
I am a huge truggy fan and racer and also want the 1/10 scale truck for next winter.
OH my decisions decisions :confused:

[losifreak2004]

Losi might have a truggy too before too long...:)

Adam already won a big race with it too ;)

[T/Losi]

Does anyone know if Losi still make the body from the oringinal XXX-T (Same one that was on the XXX-T Spec)

Cheers

[Casper]

Stormer has them in stock.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOS8023

[T/Losi]

Stormer has them in stock.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOS8023
Are they discontinued and they are just left overs?
I still reakon they are the best truck bodies made.
Do Stormer ship worldwide?

Cheers

[Casper]

They do not appear to be discontinued. They still fit the current truck so I cannot imagine they would be but they may be a little hard to find depending on current stock and demand. Stormer will ship anywhere. The new FXT body is pretty nice and similar to the orginal body with a little softer lines.

[T/Losi]

Yeah I don't mind that, better looking than the mf2 body
http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2005pics/FXT-Body.jpg

Cheers

[T/Losi]

I currently have a XXX-T MF1. How do they go compared to the new MF2. Can you convert the MF1 to MF2?

Cheers

[T/Losi]

Also, are the XXX-T RTR 2 based on the same transmission as the XXX-T MF2?

Cheers

[Casper]

Some people still like the MF1 better. The rear end of the MF2 has been recieved with mixed results. The losi team has been working on the rear end a lot lately and seem to be going back to an XX style rear end on the buggies. I personally like the MF2. I think it acclerates harder and handles just fine. I have one of the fastest trucks at my local track so it cannot be that far off. You can convert an MF1 to a MF2 but you pretty much need to replace everything from the rear shock tower back to change to the MF2 rear end. Also to get the VLA arms you need to replace the front arm and caster blocks in the front.

[Casper]

The RTR 2 is a Gen 1 truck still.

[T/Losi]

Can you get aluminum pivots for the xxx-t mf1?
I've yet to break a part on mine and I have been giving it a hard time. What spares should I normally keep on hand?

Cheers

[Casper]

Trinity made an alum rear pivot for the MF1. I would keep front arms and caster blocks on hand. I do not think I have ever broken anything else and these I only broke one arm and my 8 year old daughter broke a caster block for the first time a couple weeks ago.

[T/Losi]

Does anyone use a brushless motor in theres?
Also what weight oil and springs are you using?

Cheers

[Re-Mix]

I ran a brushless motor in mine for about 3 years. The Novak ss5800 and a Lehner Basic 4200. For bashing I used 40wt oil all around, red springs up front and orange in rear but thats just my style.

[GT Freak]

Team Losi has always been at the cutting edge of design for both racing and sport models. The XXX-T RTR has distinguished itself to be one of the most popular electric Ready-To-Runs due to its racer inspired design and industry leading electronics. Team Losi now raises the bar yet another level with the XXX-T Brushless RTR, the first electric RTR equipped with a state-of-the-art brushless motor system. There is little doubt that brushless power is the future. With greater power, longer run time, better reliability, and much less maintenance, brushless offers more of everything the enthusiast wants. Until now, the only way to achieve this level of performance and reliability was considered costly. With Team Losi and Novak working together to offer this remarkable package the enthusiast can enjoy all of the benefits at only a fraction of the cost. The custom made Novak system includes the innovative sensor-based SS4300 brushless motor, which is ROAR approved. There is also a pre-programmed user friendly Super Sport based ESC with One-Touch Set-Up and Thermal Overload Protection. The ESC features two user-selectable profiles, one with reverse and one without for racing. Both options offer built-in drag and push brakes, which until now have not been available. The XXX-T Brushless RTR brings together the unique combination of a race-proven Team Losi chassis design, premium JR XR2i radio, and industry leading Novak brushless motor system. Best of all it all comes out of the box ready-to-run with a killer new trim scheme. Like all Team Losi RTR’s the XXX-T Brushless uses all genuine Team Losi replacement and performance parts.




Performance Features:
1. Exclusive XXX-T suspension package with hard-anodized oil-filled shocks
2. Exclusive rigid molded chassis with dropped center
3. Molded suspension components feature interlocking construction
4. Universal drive shafts deliver crisp acceleration and improved handling
5. Adjustable slipper clutch for improved traction and acceleration
6. Racing transmission with heavy-duty adjustable ball differential
7. Precision ball bearings throughout
8. Novak SS4300 sensored brushless motor
9. Novak Super Sport 10.5 brushless speed control with reverse
10. Rugged racing tires pre-glued on one-piece yellow wheels

Features:
Proven XXX-T chassis
Novak SS4300 Sensored Brushless Motor and ESC (ROAR legal)
Factory-finished body
JR XR2i computer radio system with digital trims and 2-model memory
High-Torque Z-590M steering servo
Factory assembled and ready-to-run

Specifications:
Type: 2WD Electric Stadium Truck
Scale: 1/10
Length: 16.19 in
Width: 12.88 in
Wheelbase: 11 in
Weight: varies with battery used
Chassis: molded composite tub
Suspension: independent A-arm type
Drive Train: three-gear transmission with ball differential & slipper clutch
Tire Type: ribbed front, multi-pin rear
Motor or Engine: Novak SS4300 sensored brushless motor
Speed Control: Novak dual-profile brushless ESC
Radio: JR XR2i computer radio with 2-model memory
Servos: Z-590M Hi-torque steering servo
Gear Pitch: 48 pitch
Wheel Size: 2.2"
Kit/RTR: RTR
Shock Type: Oil-filled aluminum with coil-over springs
Body: Fury
Ball Bearings: Complete

LOSA0096 - Team Losi XXX-T Sport RTR II Brushless w/XR2i radio

http://www.teamlosi.com/
http://www.horizonhobby.com/

[EarlThePearl]

Wazzup fellas. I just built a XXX-T MF2 and installed a GTB 5.5 brushless motor system. I ordered a couple of GP3700 unmatched packs from promatchracing for bashing around. This thing is insane. The 5.5 is probably too much for a track, but there are no tracks near me. Most of my time is spent in the front yard and street, so having the 5.5 is a lot of fun. I think I might invest in a wheelie bar. If you hit any kind of small bump on initial acceleration it wheelies like crazy.

I need to get a "dee-d-dee" sticker for this truck, cuz it's a little retarded. :D

[sprog]

Hi all, just been wading thru all the old posts to get some info, thanks for all the efforts in providing advice (Casper your web site is very helpfull). Even though comes assembled a detailed look at the manual on assembly tells me this is a well documented build (amazed at how accurate and detailed the instructions are!!!. Whish some of the DIY manuals on trampoline and kids swing set assemblies was this good :))

Totally new to electric cars and just bought a XXX-T Sport RTRII kit. Using GP3300's and all good so far. I have a heap of questions but will save some for later. Some quick ones I hope as follows:

The doco with the kit indicates 20 pinion and 88 spur, Caspers spreadsheet indiacates 86 spur. Is the MF2 spur different? Can someone explain the relationship of pinion/spur sizes re acceleration vs top speed? Maybe the old bike gear anaolgy might help me understand, coz I'm struggling.

Can someone advise what motor they recommend I could get next based on the std speed controller with this kit, for more top speed.
Thanks in advance

[Casper]

Lets start with the little gear (pinion) The more teeth the more top end. The less teeth the more bottom end. The opposite is true for the Larger Spur gear. Most people do not change the spur gear. I think the original XXX-T might have had an 88 in the kit. The MF2 uses and 86 in the kit which is why I have my gear chart with that gear. As a rule of thump an 88 spur is like half a tooth lower on a pinion (48 pitch).

[EarlThePearl]

Can someone explain the relationship of pinion/spur sizes re acceleration vs top speed? Maybe the old bike gear anaolgy might help me understand, coz I'm struggling.

I currently ride an 02 FZ1, and have owned an R1 and CBR600F2.

The spur gear/pinion gear ratio work a lot like our bikes. Think of a sprocket like a spur, and a counter sprocket like a pinion.

Generally, I always drop a tooth on the counter shaft on a motorcycle, because I'm more interested in low speed torque and wheelie power. I only drop 1 tooth though, as to not lose too much top end.

I think it's easiest to change out pinions on a rc car, because dropping or adding a tooth or two makes a noticeable difference. Plus they are cheap, and it's really nothing to carry several pinions with you and switch them out to meet your needs.

Obviously bigger pinions give you more top end, and smaller ones give you more torque. The key is to find a balance to suit your application...AND won't cook your motor. Bigger pinions create more heat on your motor.

There are no tracks near me, so I bash a lot in the front yard and street. Top speed is a attraction for me in my situation. I like to chase cars down my street :). I run 16/86 with a Novak 5.5 brushless system. (officially retarded) I probably could get away with a bigger pinion, but as it is my motor gets pretty hot after 8 minutes, so I really don't want to push it too much, as my motor system is costly.

As far as motors go, brushless is all I can say. Retarded top end, retarded torque, with minimal maintenance. Are you a racer or a basher? If you just bash around, then I don’t see any reason NOT to go brushless, unless it’s cost prohibitive. I had a X-Cellerator with a Trinity 19T motor before I put my MF2 together. I got to tell you, this 5.5 GTB is soooooo much fun to drive. Power wheelies with an electric truck will put a BIG smile on your face.

My MF2 came with an 86T spur, but I’m not sure about the Sport. If you look closely at the spur it should be stamped on there.

Spur and pinion setups all depend on what motor you plan to run. Post a little more info and let the experts chime in on what setup you should shoot for.

[sprog]

Thanks guys sort of clearer on the pinion and spur sizes. Odd that my kit just purchased would have the 88 spur not 86 well thats according to the manual, I will check if its stamped. Yeh knowing what motor you have would be nice but no info avail other than trinity 19T, I guess thats 19 turns? I have posted a question to Trinity for more info. Earl your setup is 16\86 so smaller pinion than mine (20) so less topend, your spur 86 is slightly smaller than mine (88) so you gain some topend against mine. Overall wouldn't you have less topend? or does your motor make that much difference covering both the torque and top end spectrums.?

Just bashing right now but intend to race at local tracks. In fact took it out today to old abandoned BMX track for a spin and OMG :eek: . The jumps and berms as you can guess are huge and thought what the hell lets try some. Well this car got some major air time and apart for some underbody scratches this thing was amazing. Just want to understand more about gearing and motors so I can better calculate new motor purchase and match to correct gears to avoid motor damage. I cannot run brushless as the ESC doesn't support it, oh well theres always the MF2 kit where I can spec more what I want, the kit was a starter for racing so not sure how competitive it will be.

[EarlThePearl]

My motor is 5.5 turns, which is very powerful. A 19 turn motor can't even come close. I can't run too big of a pinion gear because it will heat the motor and ESC too much, risking overheating and thermal shutdown. Plus the spur is only 86T, so that gears it up a little in itself.

The nice thing about my ESC is that it can run any brushed motor. If I wanted to race, I could solder on a stock 27 turn motor in a few minutes and race legally.

[sprog]

So what ESC are you running?

[EarlThePearl]

It's a GTB motor system from Novak. It's the 1710 ESC and 5.5 motor that came together.

[Bigedmond]

well i just took 3rd last night here in the amain in expert pro mod truck with my gtb and 5.5. I was the number 2 qualifier with only 1 qualifing run complete out of the 2. No one minded me running brushless, and it was nice to be able to got for the big triple after 5 minutes of racing.

Now i just need to get my push fixed. Was using wholes shots front and rear on hard packed clay. Started out fine, but as the race went on, the push was more noticeable. But then again, the tires haven been used in a few years.

Running
Springs: orange front, pink rear.
Outside a-arm mount frong and rear


Thinking about going with 8 rib fronts and new holeshots rear, the switching to yellow rear springs.

[Casper]

You might want to try the blue buggy front springs. A harder front spring will help with high speed steering as well and the buggy springs on a truck will give a more progressive feel. 8 rows should give more steering as well.

[losifreak2004]

http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Files/drake-std.pdf

That's the setup that the race team usually starts out with at most tracks, it works really well on a variety of conditions (I've liked it everywhere from The Dirt to Hot Rod).

You can run 35 wt. up front and omit the front sway bar, it still works very well and feels solid. If you're looking for a different setup to try or simply see how it works, give that one a shot.

[sprog]

hi all, after doing research would like to get a Novak GTB esc and combo 5.5 / 6.5 brushless setup. Prices seem a lot on the high side here in Oz so wondering if you can recommend someone in the states that ships overseas. Needs a web site so I can purchase online and also post questions to them re postage charges.
Horizonhobby not clear on whether they do overseas orders or not?
Losipartshouse seem great price wise.

[Casper]

I know www.stormerhobbies.com will ship overseas. I am pretty sure Horizon will since they are a global distributor.

[sprog]

Thanks Casper, I have today ordered a Novak GTB and 5.5R from Stormerhobbies. All simple to order online, just hope it arrives :)
thanks for the help. Also noticed theres a velociti 4.5 motor now but doesn't seem recommended for trucks.

So EarlThePearl on a scale of 1-10 (10 being highest) what sort of difference should I see after the esc and motor install? You seemed to imply its like chalk and cheese. Hey so I'm excited as if you can't guess... :D

[EarlThePearl]

Well, I can tell you it will put a stupid grin on your face for sure.It will take some skill on a track to keep that thing from running wild.

Now what I'd really like to see is that new Lipo from Orion with this setup. Imagine having 20min of runtime out on the track with no battery fade.

[Bigedmond]

Seen it. We have a losi driver at my track, and he ran a gtb with a 6.5 and orion lipo. He was out running for a while, but then when he got his car to the pit, and pull the batt, it poped. Totaly wasted the battery, as it split the case. He didnt care, since orion is his battery sponser, but the track banned lipo because it could have easily blown up.

Sprog, when you get your ESC, and motor, make sure to check the slipper, and set it a little looser then normal if you are racing it. It will still pull wheelies, but will be more controlable, since the setup is stupid fast. Also i ran the three motor wires thru the bottom hole of the rear shock tower. To me it provided a clean look, plus gave them protection from moving parts.

here is some GTB eye candy

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/70716/Up48306.jpg
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/70716/Tr49036.jpg

[sprog]

Thanks all, can't wait (but have to wait till posted from US) damn. Great photos. I have also ordered 86 spur and 16 pinion as recommended above.
Will probably race using std supplied esc and motor till I get used to basic racing. The club here seems to have one truck class (modified) that allows most things (except Lipo).
Yeh draw too much from a lipo and it will pop seen it in electric planes running brushless. My brother has measured current draw on his planes at 114Amps burst but he says you need good lipos. He is using 20-30c rated discharge 3700mah eco flightpower 11.1v lipos that allow this large burst and high sustained current draw.

Thanks for the tip re wire routing bigedmond will do.

[philp37]

Has anybody tried the duratrax hard anodized shocks from the pro version. I have heard some good things about them.

[tucsonbroker]

I'm looking to add brushless to my XXX-T. Everything is stock right now, and I am using 3000mah NMH batteries. I like the idea of a low maintenance motor and getting something a tad bit quicker, but I'm leery that my run times will be shorter. I'm not competively racing, just having fun on a home built track with some friends. I don't want to change batteries frequently.

The local shop's are telling me conflicting info. Anyone have a suggested brushless setup to at least keep my run times the same?

[EarlThePearl]

Brushless motors are much more efficient that brushed motors. If anything you'll get longer run times.

[tucsonbroker]

Does anyone here have a Novak GTB 5.5 setup and what type of run-times are you gettting?

[sprog]

Well, this is one very unhappy Novak customer.... I took possession of my brand new GTB and 5.5 system and was as happy as. Fitted it all up into my XXXT RTR and double and triple checked everything. Well it worked just fantastic for all of 5 mins. Great power lots of slip set in the slipper to be on the safe side. Running std 88 spur and a 16 pinion. Couple of laps up and down the road and checked motor and was still all cool, barely warm. Lucky I had the body off the car as I brought it to a stop near me and then watched as smoke erupted from the ESC. Pulled the battery off real quick.. Lucky I had used Deans plugs for this as if I had soldered as per instructions I would have had a fire. Any way I guess the ESC is toast. I have rechecked everything and all is fine. Tried replugging in battery and again starts to smoke so disconnected. Not sure what to do as this is brand new and shipped from US to me in Australia. Anyway just my luck and guess I will have to progress a clain thru Novak oh joy.. Anyone have any ideas. Trust me I have looked over and over at this and not one thing is out of place or wrong in the setup. Motor and wheels free wheel fine, the motor was cool but the ESC was red hot. Yes the fan was still working even as it smoked. Oh the batteries are brand new (used a few times on stock setup) GP matched set and shrinkwrapped std. There is definately no sign of any shorting on anything external either so appears to be internal fault somewhere.

[Y2KGTP]

Question on XXX-T RTR II Novak speed control. I have 2 of these, and it seems like that the throttle just stopped working. the ESC still passes power to the radio, as the steering servo still works fine.

The ESC is just not putting out any voltage to the motor......is it a shipment back to Horizon service then? I let it sit overnight, and will test it again later today......just in case.

[EarlThePearl]

Well, my 1st motor system I got from Novak was pretty much toast out of the box. I sent it in for warranty repair and they sent a brand new one out pretty fast. They had a note in the box about the MOSFETS being bad or something. I'm afraid you'll need to do the warranty thing. Novak has pretty good customer support, so I'd shoot them an e-mail and see how to handle it, since you are across the pond.

[tucsonbroker]

Ok I upgraded my stock XXX-T with a Novak GBT 7.5R setup and I'm pleased so far. I get slightly longer run times and have a much faster car. Plus I don't have to screw with motor cleaner, brushes, or any other maintenance. A VAST improvement.

[Chevy-SS]

I'm sure this has been asked before, but how do you keep the diff gear from melting in the MF2 electric? I can hold my own at the local club races, but I can never seem to make the diff gear last more than a few heats.

Does anyone make improved gears or bearings, or are they needed at all? How much run time do you guys get out of a diff gear?

thanks.....................

-

[Bigedmond]

Well i just down graded from brushless because my track just cant handle it. 1.2 throttle and the rear end starts sliding out.

So i moved to a novak GTX speed control. I have an orion Core, and an Orion Revolution 12x2. Need gearing advice.


Chevy-ss. Sounds like you have your slipper to tight. The diff gear only melts if you have your slipper set to tight, so the diff slips instead of the slipper. You should be able to get alot of runs with out thr gear melting, but i still rebuilding my diff after ever race day. So set your slipper looser then you have it now, and your diff melting problem should go away.

[Casper]

Gear the core around 18/86. Gear the 12X2 starting at 8 over so around 20/86.

[losifreak2004]

Chevy-SS - Like Big Edmond said, if the diff doesn't slip, there's no reason the diff shouldn't last a long time; I have had the outdrives wear out (develop big notches from the dogbone pins) before the diff becomes gritty and inconsistent.

Build the diff by the book; I use AE black grease on the thrust bearing but the stock stuff will work fine. Once it is built, hold each outdrive with an allen wrench (through the slots in the outdrive) and try to turn the diff gear..if you can, it is too loose. Put it in the car and turn it on; apply 1/4 throttle and hold one rear tire, then the other, independently and for 30 seconds, 8-10 times per tire; this will break everything in and allow it to seat correctly. Crank your slipper down and hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left tire. If you can, the diff is slipping and needs to be tightened. Once the diff no longer slips, loosen the slipper four full turns and do the same test; you should be able to turn the left rear tire now, and you should see the slipper assembly turn as well. Repeat this test every once in a while and your diff will last a long time.

[Chevy-SS]

Thanks for the tips gents. I definitely was setting the diff too loose. But with the diff tightened up, I am losing on-power steering. Now I get more pushing when I apply power in the middle of a turn. This is why I was setting the diff loose in the first place and it helped to set it loose, but of course, I would melt diff gears.

So how do you reduce on-power push?

thanks

-

[billmck]

Thanks for the tips gents. I definitely was setting the diff too loose. But with the diff tightened up, I am losing on-power steering. Now I get more pushing when I apply power in the middle of a turn. This is why I was setting the diff loose in the first place and it helped to set it loose, but of course, I would melt diff gears.

So how do you reduce on-power push?

thanks

-

i have a few mf2s, and the only time i had a push was using the 8 rib tires. you should run m2 edges in front. also stiffen up the ft suspension; move the upper shocks outward and camber link should be: middle on bulkhead and out on the ft hub carrier as a starting point. this will help elimate push with moderate throttle in turns. now, for heavy throttle push, you will have to experment with shims to limit front travel (nothing more than 1/16 should be used) the last 2 options would be to increase rear antisquat or to move the rear hubs rearward.

chevy-ss, if you post your setup maybe i can help out.
just for the record, i think that the stock setup for the front isn't even close!! jmo

bill

[Chevy-SS]

Bill, thanks for offer. I haven't done much with this truck. Two races this year, 1st race melted two diff gears (TQ tho, heheh), 2nd race broke tranny case.

I built the kit in 2004 and a local top gun helped me set it up. Didn't race it at all in 2005 (all nitro). I can't tell you much about the exact setup, so I thought I'd just post a pic and see if you can spot any glaring errors. I have a bunch of new tires to try out as well

Maybe if you just post one of your low-push setups, I'll copy that.

Thanks for help.

http://csgbenefits.org/mf2.jpg

Here's a close-up of the front end:
http://csgbenefits.org/mf3.jpg


-

[Chevy-SS]

Can ANYONE please post a good setup to reduce on-power push?

thanks....................

-

[billmck]

hey chevy... from the standard mf2 setup

this is what i have thats different

front camber link - out all the way on the hub and middle in the bulk
top of shocks out to #3 - not all the way out

rear camber link middle on rear shock tower
hubs all the way back

m2 holeshots - rear
m2 edges -front

you got the spring setup right
might have to go with orange fronts, but test first

note: dont go too fast into a corner, the truck will start to swing around when giving moderate throttle - just ride it out.

shock oil
front - 35
rear - 30

everything else is mf2 stock setup

i'll be back with more

bill

[egarnaat]

Have you guys seen how the front axle bearings are assembled on the xxx-cr?
The bearings are assembled in the axle hubs. I wonder if the xxx-t hubs can be replaced with these because I'm tired of taking the bearings out of the wheels when I want to change tires. I think the BK2 also had these style hubs.
You can see what I mean in this exploded view. (warning large PDF)

Click here (http://www.teamlosi.com/ProdInfo/Files/Exploded_View_LOSA0032.pdf)

[Casper]

This buggy front end has been around since the XX. Not sure why the truck has not gone to this? With the AD2 rear wheels you could design a buggy type front axle that keyed into the AD2 hex.... Huh I might be on to something! :rolleyes:

[4x4_Racer]

Hey Ladies/Gents,

First off let me state, I did not read ever page to this thread, there was WAY too many for me to start at one and work my way to here. So please be patient with me.


Next, I just purchased a Losi XXX-T RTR today. Dirt cheap. Running, but I am use to running Nitro Rustler 2.5 and this is slower than pond water to me. (No offense to anyone.) I think it might be doing 10-15mph by a guess.

Anyways this is my first "hobby" electric rc, and I have absolutely no clue about these motors. I know the lower you go in turns the faster it goes, but thats just about it. I was looking around at the hobby shop for electric motors and found majority of them were around $30. Which to me doesn't seem all that bad. Now I am wanting to race this periodically, and I am wanting something that will keep up with the local hot shots at the track. How many turns of a motor should I get? This will be for bashing/racing. I would like to hit at least 25-30mph if possible, and I can't afford to go brushless just yet.

Next, I see guys with custom made battery packs, and I see the batteries for sale in the hobby shop as well as in magazines. Are those homemade batteries generally longer lasting? And what range is best to buy? (1500, 2000, 3300, 3800, etc.) I have a couple 1500's, and a 3300, but they are pre-built stick packs. They run good, maybe 15min of run time before they are dead.

And my last topic. Are all Losi XXX-T parts interchangable? Like can I swap a graphite chassis from a newer XXX-T on to mine?


Thanks! That's all for now, hope you all can help me out.

[Casper]

Last question first. All the parts are interchangable as far as suspension parts.

What kind of racing do you want to do. Most people start out racing stock. A stock motor will run you about $30-$40 and will make the truck go around 20 mph. Good batteries are important in stock racing. If you want to play with the modified guys first you need to look at the specs of the speed control you are using. That may limit how fast a motor you can run. A good mild mod motor is around a 14T. You should be able to pick up a bearing machine wound mod for $30-$40. Mod classes you really do not need great batteries but you will want batteries with a little higher Mah rating so they last longer. Modified motors will drain the batteries faster. I would not go lower then 3300. The "home made" batteries are superior in that they are matched. Since they are mached the will work better as a pack since all the cells will discharge at a closer rate. This is really important for stock. Again not so much in modified. I am not sure what kind of competition you will see at your local track or what classes are most popular but I would check it out first and see what classes are normally offered for your truck and go from there. Someone at your track can help to recommend a good motor for the track and what tires work there. That will be important to racing in having the right tire so you have traction.

Hope this helps some.

[4x4_Racer]

Thanks for the info. The track I plan to race at is a "Run what you Brung" type of track. Classes are defined by what people have brought to race with.

[Casper]

Then I would start with a mild machine wound mod (13-15 turn). One of those new Checkpoint 19T would not be a bad idea as well. They have good power and outstanding brush wear. It will help with your runs between rebuilds. Electric motors require maintance to run at top performance. When you get to the track ask around for someone who has a lathe and find out what they will charge to cut the comm on your motor. The motor you have in your truck now could probably use a comm cut and some new brushes to get going faster.

[4x4_Racer]

Yeah I bet it could. It is fairly slow reaction wise.

How much do you cut off of the comm at any given time and how soon do you do it? I know guys who run machine shops, could they do it there?, or do you need a special lathe for it?

Next. I have a JR FM radio and I have a few FM recievers. It is a very quick hookup for my nitro cars, but I tried to hook it up to the XXX-T and I don't get any power. I plugged the in coming off the ESC into the "Batt" part and the steering of course into the "steering". Is there a different vers of the FM reciever for electric rc's?

[Casper]

You need to plug the ESC into the throttle. The receiver will get power from this but that channel will also send signals to the ESC for power. The ESC replaces the throtle servo in your gas car.

It is much easier to do this with a special lathe. I am not sure how hard it would be to cut a comm on "convential" machines. These should be someone at the track that has a lathe. A lot of guys will cut a motor for free but some will charge an small fee of $5 or less. Just ask around.

[4x4_Racer]

haha, that makes plenty of since now about the ESC and throttle. I wasn't thinking.

I'll try that later today, thanks!


Oh and thanks for the quick replies.

[4x4_Racer]

Worked! I am now FM on all R/C's. :D

Thanks for all your help. I called a friend today who races electrics, I think he might have a lathe. *crosses fingers*

[tucsonbroker]

How do you folks hold down the slightly larger lipo batteries? I tried velcro but it still pops out when the car flips.

[rigrishracer22B]

super glue joke try a wide rubberband

[tucsonbroker]

Nah, made a new battery strap out of some thin steel strap I had. Bent it to fit the new battery and drilled a hole on the other side. Works great.

[associatedude92]

hi i have a trinity 19 turn pro motor and my truck will just stop and be blazing hot??? i have no clue what to do.

[Casper]

Usually motors do not just stop. If the motor is hot the speed control is usually hot as well and it may be going into thermal shutdown. When what the last time you cut the comm and replaced the brushes? What are you geared at. Check all the wheel bearings and all the tranny bearings to make sure non of them have blown out.

[associatedude92]

ya i was talking to loscrazy2004 and he said i am probly geared too high. I do not have a comm, and the brushes look fine, I think.

[Casper]

With the new 4200+ Mah batteries these days you need to be careful when running your car for too long. Thse motors are not efficient enough handle the loads we put them through for very long runs at once. The motor will get hot after 10-15 min of straight running regardless of the gearing. Also if the brush changes colors it should be replaced.

[associatedude92]

ok but i am only running a 3300 battery and the comm does need to be cut, but I dont have a comm lathe, so there is my problem. The brushes look normal so that is good. And the guy i bought it from had a 22t in so i need to change the gearing. Thanks for the help guys.

[Casper]

22T is a little tall but not way off the mark. 20-21 is kind of where I would start in a MF2 and a 86 spur.

[associatedude92]

Aaron said a 17 would be best cause i have a XXX-T not the MF edition but i am gonna go with a 17 and i need to buy a comm lathe before sunday:(

[Casper]

17 may be a little low. I am not run the motor you have but with a C2 based 19T I would be 19-20 with a 86 in a MF (Gen I) tranny. If the comm is burned up the motor will heat up more as well.

[associatedude92]

ya i dont really know what a burned up comm looks like but this one is kinda black but not totally black.

[Casper]

Black is not a good thing but happens as the comm wears out. If there is a cresent shaped burn mark at each of the comm segment areas this usually tells you the comm is worn out. When you cut it the comm will return to it's shinny copper color.

[associatedude92]

ok the comm is worn out then cause it gets smaller in the middle and bigger at the ends.

[Casper]

Yeah it definately needs some TLC! :)

[associatedude92]

do i cut it or should i just get a new motor or can i get a new comm??? i dk

[Casper]

Cut it and see what happens. If the comm dia goes below .270 the comm is done and you will risk comm failure if you run the motor below this level. IF you can clean up the comm and it is larger then .270 keep running it!

[associatedude92]

Ok thanks a lot!!!

[associatedude92]

Ok sorry but i have another question. Whats the turn limit for the ESC on the XXX-T RTR?

[microrcdude]

i think its 15 turn

[associatedude92]

ya i forgot that i had the manual and yes it is 15 turn. I guess i shoulda checked before i asked.

[microrcdude]

lol its fine dont worry bout a thing mate

[sim600]

Sorry if these are silly questions, but what's "side bite" and "forward bite"?

Also, what's a nice body to put on a XXX-T? I'm forgot what body I put on mine now but it's a Losi body and it's wider towards the back and narrow towards the front and it doesn't "hug" the chassis.

Is there a truck body that fits snugly enough for me to velcro it to the chassis? Thanks.

[sim600]

pics of the truck body... http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/xxxt/xxxt_01.jpg

[Casper]

Side Bite is traction that keeps the rear end from spinning out in the corners. Forward bite is what makes the car for forward. More forward bite will keep the tires from spinning under acceleration and give you more acceleration.

The FXT body should work as well as the JConepts body will allow use of velcro.

[Casper]

The body in the picture is the MF2 body.

[sim600]

Thanks Casper. Ya, that body did come with some MF2 stickers which I didn't put on because mine's an old XXX-T. Will look at getting an FXT body maybe because I like to keep the dirt out.

[4x4_Racer]

Hello again,

Since I last posted some how, some way, my ESC got fried. So I purchased a Novak GT7 to slap on there. I was seriously debating a brushless system. But, the majority of guys around here that go with brushless run dirt oval. I figure that no motor limit on the GT7, I could change to a 10t or whatever, whenever suited my fancy.

Aight, well I cleaned up my 19T, and it added some speed. Brought the truck to around 18mph w/ 20t pinion. (Yeah, kinda clocked it.) So I purchased a 15t, put that 20t pinion on it, and I got it to 22mph. And it rockets off the line, compared to the other.


So here is my question. Am I running the right pinion for this motor? I believe the spur is between 80-90teeth. (stock I assume), stock internal gearing. If not, what range do I need to run in order to get the best all around performance w/ that spur? And what if I would jump to a 10t motor? Probably going to help if I list my tires, I am running Losi Taper Pin's on the rear.


Thanks in Advance!

[Casper]

What truck you running? MF2 or MF1? Stock gear is 86 (red) Gear mod motors 7 over for MF2 tranny and 6 over for MF1 tranny. For a higher wind like a 15T 6 and 5 over may be the ticket but these are good starting points.

[4x4_Racer]

It's actually a XXX-T Sport. Dunno if that makes a difference.

By 7 and 6 over, do you mean more teeth on the spur?

[Casper]

The sport uses the Gen I tranny. For that I would go 6 teeth on the pinion over the wind of the motor. That mean if you are using a 12 turn motor you will use a 12+6=18 tooth pinon. If you are using a 14 turn motor you will use a 14+6=20 tooth pinion. With mod motors as a rule of thumb you go up a tooth for every wind you add to the mod motor. The secret is finding the starting point. For this truck it is 6-7 teeth over the wind of the motor. Make sense???

[sim600]

I've got another question.

For those of you who are using the Lunsford 3.5mm Super Duty turnbuckles... do you guys use these with the Team Losi Extra Stiff ball cups? Do I need to do anything special to the ball cups like tap them for threads before putting in these thick turnbuckles? Or am I just supposed to use the RPM super duty ball cups?

Thanks.

[Bigedmond]

for ballcup, i go with the losi white cups. I had others, and they would just pop off once and a while, but i have never had that happen with the white cups.

[4x4_Racer]

The sport uses the Gen I tranny. For that I would go 6 teeth on the pinion over the wind of the motor. That mean if you are using a 12 turn motor you will use a 12+6=18 tooth pinon. If you are using a 14 turn motor you will use a 14+6=20 tooth pinion. With mod motors as a rule of thumb you go up a tooth for every wind you add to the mod motor. The secret is finding the starting point. For this truck it is 6-7 teeth over the wind of the motor. Make sense???


Makes since. Because when I dropped a 18tooth pinion on my 15turn motor, it was very slow. Upping it to the stock 20 tooth pinion brought the speed up dramatically! Giving thats 5 teeth over, still pretty close.

[4x4_Racer]

Hey,

I have another question. When I got my XXX-T, I got it used, and it was missing some screws/bolts from the motor plate. They are the longer ones that I assume run all the way through the tranny to grab the aluminum plate? Anyone know where I can get those 3? (I think)?

My spur rubs, or at least looks to be rubbing do to the wear on the inner side of the teeth. If I could get those screws, it would pull it back dramatically, probably help it out too.


EDIT: BTW, I haven't posted a picture yet of my Losi family yet. So here it is.... (Picture prior too new Novak ESC)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/IMAG0024.jpg

[Casper]

Losi sells the long tranny screws in a set. Look at www.teamlosi.com to get an exploded view of your car and they will give you the part number of the screw set you will need. I am not sure exactly which screw you are talking about.

[Radio Acer]

Hey everyone, I've posted in this thread a couple of times and i've read most every post, so I thought I'd share some pics. Tell me what ya think.
XXX-T Spec in action: http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n76/kazam58/IMGP4049.jpg
XXX-T MF2, Should gets it's first runs in this weekend:http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n76/kazam58/IMGP0465.jpg

[rigrishracer22B]

nice :cool: :cool: :cool: :D :) ;)

[Radio Acer]

Thanx.
The MF2 actually got its first runs in this weekend. But during that time, a small pebble somehow got through the gear cover and in between the spur and pinion. :confused:
So I found a Robinson pinion but I'd like to know if there's a spur gear from another company that'll fit the MF2, or do I have to buy a Losi one? Only reason I'm asking is that I usually order through tower and it's gonna be a while before I come up with an order from Stormer. So it's just a matter of how soon I get it.
Thanx everyone

[Casper]

Any 48 pitch pinion will work. Robinson makes great pinions. Losi makes good ones. Get steel pinions. Alum ones wear out too fast. Also I have not tried but have not heard good things about the TIR titanium pinons.

[rigrishracer22B]

The kimbrough gears are good also

[Casper]

Kinbrough does not make metal pinions. They make great spurs though!

[rigrishracer22B]

oops my bad :p :D

[chilledoutuk]

I would not use TIR pinions i bought a 16t once the hole in the middle is much too big causing the pinion to not sit centricly and eventually get pushed off the motor shaft.
I like losi pinions and the rw racing pinions that are easy to get here in the uk are nice.
I have heard good things about robinson racing pinions and will probably try them out at some point.

[MattRX]

Hi Guys

I am looking at getting an XXX-T but have been burnt by Tamiya ball diffs before.

Does the ball diff in these trucks cause problems?

And will it survive if I fit my Novak SS Brushless?

Thanks heaps

Matt

[Casper]

If built right the diff will last a long time. You need to set the slipper to give before the diff does and they last a long time. Novak SS sysetem should not be a problem at all.

[Chevy-SS]

I have ruined a number of diffs, before I learned how to set it (thanks to guys here). Now I can get the diff to last.......

I'm no expert (like others here) but the ball diff seems tricky to set up. Anything less than a perfect adjustment, and it will self-destruct, so get it right.

-

[Radio Acer]

I've never had a problem with my diffs in these trucks. The manual said to tighten them up after a few runs, but I've never had to touch them, and one truck has had two race seasons on it. I'm not a hardcore racer like some of you other guys here so I'm not very picky about whether the diff feels gritty or not, but I will say, it probably is time for a rebuild. I'd be surprised if anyone had any probs with their diff here. Just thought I'd share that story with you guys even though it offers no help.
Actually, while we're on the subject, how tight do you guys usually set up your diffs. I have it so that it is nearly impossible to turn the diff gear while holding both the outdrives. Is this too tight? I set it rather tight when i first built it because I was worried about all those rumors about diffs melting if they're too loose and etc.

[MattRX]

Thanks guys.

Still not a ball diff fan, but this just might work.

Matt

[BoysToys]

First let me say hello. :wave: And WOW this thread is long! :eek: I just bought my XXX-T RTR Sport about 3 weeks ago and am loving it! I only use it for bashing and terrorizing the neighborhood, but it runs sweet. Since I bought it I have upgraded quite a few things like, Graphite parts here and there, Novak GTB/Velocity 5.5 brushless, SPC IB4200WC 6 cell pack, Pro-line Mashers, and a Spektrum DX3.0 system. My wife would feak if she new how much cash was in my "toy". Oh well I don't want to know how much she spends on shoes. :huh: I have attached a few pics. Let me know what you think!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/XXX-TBrushlessGraphiteSpektrum009sm.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/XXX-TBrushlessGraphiteSpektrum005sm.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/XXX-TBrushless007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BBates/XXX-TBrushlessGraphite004small.jpg

[got2bqik]

Nice looking truck BT. I'd swap out the losi front bumper for a RPM wide one. It will protect the front end alot better. That is the 1st thing I usually put on a new rig. How do you like that spektrum radio setup? I'm thinking of upgrading my radio's to 1 instead of 3.
Tim

[4x4_Racer]

Very nice looking XXX-T.

got2bqik -> I don't have a spectrum, but I use a synthesized setup through JR. I love it. I have 3 cars on my radio, just hit a button to switch cars. Very easy to work with. And all digital read out.




Anyways, I posted here a while back. Asking with gearing, and I couldnt remember if I posted a picture of my xxx-t sport. Well, here she be. Slightly modded.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/IMG_1150.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/IMG_1151.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/IMG_1152.jpg


I am currently regreasing the tranny. The differencial was very rough. I race it at a track about an hour away from where I live.

Mods:

Novak GT7 ESC < Best $100 I ever spent on a RC!
Losi Pink Taper Pins Rear
Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles --> $10 BRAND NEW off Ebay
Graphite Kick Plate/Top Plate
Graphite Chassis
Graphite Battery/Servo Brace
RPM Ball Cups


Motor: 27t Midnight 2 (Old School) Does a good job on the track though.

Got them ranging all the way down to a 10turn, which needs to be re-cut. 10t w/ 16tooth pinion, stock spur, and a 3800 Match Pack, get her up to 40-42mph.

[got2bqik]

4x4 racer does the radio recall trim settings,or are they adjusted by knobs or digitally. Seems I'm always tweeking steering trim to keep it straight. I have the mf2 with brushless mtronics esc and fiageo motor and it is fast with 6 cell gp 3300, really fast with 7 cell gp3300 and OMG with 2s lipo. I'm running 20/78 gearing with roadrageII tires a little high but the cool weather is letting me get away with it.
Tim

[4x4_Racer]

Yes per car, its nice! They are digital too.. No knobs to twist, you can see what percent you have each wheel turned.


Oh,

Guy's quick question. On your XXX-T, motor on against the spur, can you spin your rear tires freely? I just need a Yes or No on this one. I put my tranny back together again, and same deal.

[got2bqik]

yes
Tim

[4x4_Racer]

Wonder what's causing the binding in my car then? I regreased every component to the car. I spin the wheels, but there is still some resistance.

I pulled all the bearings, sprayed them out, and re-oiled them. So I thought bearings were in good shape.



Anyone else had this problem?

[BoysToys]

Got2bqik-- I love the Spektrum so far. I have only had it for a couple of weeks so I really have not had time to dive into what it can really do. I bought it because my XR2I was glitching very bad where I run. I like being able to adjust the % of input on each channel.

4X4 How tight did you tork down the screws holding your tranny halves together? I tightened mine down way to tight the first time I reassembled it and had the same binding problem. After checking everything, I lossened each tranny bolt up about 3/4 of a turn and everything was silky smooth. Good luck!!

[4x4_Racer]

4X4 How tight did you tork down the screws holding your tranny halves together? I tightened mine down way to tight the first time I reassembled it and had the same binding problem. After checking everything, I lossened each tranny bolt up about 3/4 of a turn and everything was silky smooth. Good luck!!

Just the parts that hold the tranny halfs together? hmm... Never thought about it. I think I'm going to give that a shot! Appreciate the input.

[Casper]

Yeah you cannot tighten these down all the way. Check the tranny before you put it back in the car. All 3 screws need to be just tight enough to keep the case together.

[4x4_Racer]

Loosened them, didnt seem to do the trick. I had a feeling to loosen the diff, I think the diff was way too tight. I think it was overtightened. I can spin the rear tires freely now.

[Casper]

The diff should have nothing to do with how free the tranny is. Also if the diff is too loose it will get gritty fast and can melt out the diff gear if run that way for too long.

Is there a local track or hobby shop you can take the car to to have someone else look at the car?

[4x4_Racer]

The diff should have nothing to do with how free the tranny is. Also if the diff is too loose it will get gritty fast and can melt out the diff gear if run that way for too long.

Is there a local track or hobby shop you can take the car to to have someone else look at the car?

No, no real places like Hobby Town locally. Only friends I have that have nitro, don't have cars with diffs like these. I've looked and re-looked at the brake down, everything is in order. Dunno what the deal is.

I could spin the rear tires, but it felt as if something was grabbing it like brakes. Very slightly though.

Well the diff was so tight the spur was turning with it.

[Casper]

Check the diff and slipper. With the gear cover off and the tires on. Hold the right rear tire and the spur gear in your right and and then turn the left rear tire. It should be hard to turn and when it does give you should be able to see the top shaft turn on the slipper. If the top shaft does not spin then the slipper is too tight or the diff is too loose.


Question? With the motor out of the car and the tires mounted how long to the tires spin with a good flick of the wrist? The tires should rotate for about 4-5 sec.

[got2bqik]

Hmmmm with that said, casper, I think my tranny and diff need some maintenence. 4X4 racer is your spur gear running true, and the set screw clear of the spur. Mark the spur and rotate and see if the tight spot is the same spot every revolution or say 4.5 times per revolution of the spur that would be the pinion running out. Just a thought.
Tim

[megaglow_z]

Hey guys.
Have a question.I just came into ownership of a second hand xxxt.
Is this suppose to look like that?
The whole thing is crooked.its not bent at all.
This is a pic of the problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/megaglowz/P1010001-1.jpg

[Casper]

No that is not normal. The tranny case is broken or the motor plate is bent. I am guessing the motor plate is bad but that is just from the picture.

[4x4_Racer]

got2bqik -> Set screw is clear, and spur looks true.


For everyone else.

I loosened the diff and slipper on the car. I set the car down, and it took off very slowly! The slipper didn't look to be slipping. Tightened it with same results. Now, this is where I noticed, I think this might be where the demon is. When I tightened the slipper all the way down, the tranny got really tight? Shouldn't should it? Its like its pushing the shaft in the case hard, causing binding. I dunno, I'm about ready to buy a new tranny, and use this for parts I'm so frustrated!

[4x4_Racer]

Hey guys.
Have a question.I just came into ownership of a second hand xxxt.
Is this suppose to look like that?
The whole thing is crooked.its not bent at all.
This is a pic of the problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/megaglowz/P1010001-1.jpg

Ur Missing a couple screws that hold that motor plate in place. That is exactly what mine looked like when I got it.

[megaglow_z]

well,i just took it apart, and the bottom mount has been heat damaged and melted.
now its shorter then the other ones.
can i just shim that with some washers or do i need to replace the whole dang thing???
I'm feeling like i got screwed on this deal.

p.s. thanks for the help guys,i appreciate it!

[Casper]

I would replace the tranny case. They are not too expensive. About $6.00 if I remember right.

4X4-- You want to make sure the right spacer is being used for the top shaft. Or check to make sure there is a spacer on the top shaft.

You need to have A2938 spacer in place. This is an exploded view of the GenII grey case tranny. Not sure if you have this one or the black gen I tranny but you still need this spacer. There are two different sizes that come with tranny cases though so even if there is one it might be the wrong size. A pro trick is to put a 3/16X3/8 bearing in place of this spacer as it will make the top shaft run truer.

[4x4_Racer]

Casper -> Somone eliminated that upper spacer w/ a bearing already. Other than that, everything looks spot on.

EDIT: I'll tear it down sometime later this evening and upload some pictures. Time is ticking down quickly till race day.

[4x4_Racer]

Found out the differencial is missing a 5mmx8mm bearing and has a broken washer on the shaft that tightens to the two halfs. (Never pull those ends apart until now)

Anyways, looking up to see if my XXX-NT doesn't have them. If after replacing those, I still have the same problems. I do not know what to do, cause everything looks exactly spot on. I even oiled my bearings before placement, and spun them so I knew they were good condition.



EDIT: Pulled a "dork", dropped the bearing on the ground earlier, didn't realize it. After pulling the XXX-NT tranny. LOL :rolleyes:

Anyways, on the parts list I uploaded. Part # A-3099 was busted. The washer had a quater broken off, and was only had 4 ball bearings. Replaced those from my XXX-NT. Everything else was fine though.


I can now take my car, turn one wheel and both spin, but no spur spinning. And, If I spin the one tire, and grab the other the spur spins. Still the original reason as to why I started this. I can't spin one tire and they keep spinning for a few seconds afterwards. Thats why I started this was to "free" whatever was up. Oh and when I grab the spur and turn it, it feels as if something is bound. I mean its just "SNUG" to push forward.

I'm going to tear it down now, and upload pics of the gearing inside. See if you notice anything, but honestly I do not. I've looked at this three or four times, maybe more, with the same results. Not see anything out of wack.

[4x4_Racer]

Normal Healthy Transmission

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/IMG_1210.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/IMG_1212.jpg

EDIT: Video

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/th_MVI_1213.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/?action=view&current=MVI_1213.flv)


But watch the video... Might have diff over tightened. I'm posting 2 more videos here soon so you can see what I am talkin about being "SNUG".

[4x4_Racer]

Double Post... Read Below...

[4x4_Racer]

Tranny Assymbled, no screws... Its Free, easy to turn

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/th_MVI_1214.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/?action=view&current=MVI_1214.flv)


Tranny Assymbled, Screws... Free, still easy to turn.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/th_MVI_1215.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/?action=view&current=MVI_1215.flv)


NOTE: I can snug the up to the slipper, and it sill be free. By snug, just barely on it.


Tranny Together, w/ Slipper All Tight... Hard to turn!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/th_MVI_1218.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/?action=view&current=MVI_1218.flv)


Does that help explain where I am coming from any? I need help with this, and I appreciate all the suggestions.


EDIT: Here is the other side of the case...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/4x4_Racer/RC%20Collection/IMG_1221.jpg

[megaglow_z]

just picked up a case and rebuilt.
looks good now.
Just one thing.that realy long screw that holds the tranny on the body was replaced by 2 screws going in eather side.this holds like crap.....
where can i get that screw from?
ebay=no
LHS=no.......
me=mad.

[4x4_Racer]

Ive got 1 more.

Shoot me a PM... Its a 4-40 bolt. You can choose the head type of your choice. I couldn't find any either, closest I got was going to the local nut/bolt store (whom is sponsoring my car), and they gave me a couple. They are phillips button though, and chrome.

You wouldn't get it for a couple weeks, since christmas. But, if your not planning on racing or bashing till after that. It would work out.

[Casper]

4X4-- Look close between the inner slipper pad and the case. Sometimes the tranny screws can be a little long and they can hit the slipper.

Wait-- Not sure you can do the second bearing trick with the two piece top shaft? I think it spaces different in the tranny and it may be pulling the top shaft into the tranny case when you install the slipper. Taking the slipper off and see if the top shaft moves back and forth.

As you can see in the attached photo the tranny case comes with two different spacers for the top shaft. The bearing trick only works with the one piece alum top shaft so I think this may be the problem. Right now it is just a guess but I do not know what else to think at this point. I also attached a pic of the RTR tranny and you can see that spacer is bigger in the RTR exploded view then the other exploded view I uploaded. I have to think this is the issue.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA3033-250.jpg

[4x4_Racer]

Hrmm... Yes it does move back and forth. Should I attempt to shim it? or not?

[Casper]

Does it move a lot. More then a little wiggle but slides a little. If it slides at all it is the spacer. If you have spacers to shim it then go for it. Either that or get an new tranny case just for the spacer. Kind of sucks to do that but you can break tranny cases so it is not a total worthless thing to buy.

A-3034 Transmission Screw Set (XXX, XXX-T) ......................... $2.50

You need this tranny screw set for that screw. You should be able to get it on-line like www.horizonhobby.com or www.stormerhobbies.com Not sure how long that thing is. It is a long screw though. I I would find one as this is holding the back end together. Without that screw you will break the tranny case or the t-plate or both.

PS. the videos did help! ;)

[4x4_Racer]

I get free screws/bolts/nuts all the time. I just need length, thread, and other info...

But its a 1.5" long 4-40 screw (bolt) whatever you wanna call it, with a socket end to it. Like I was saying, I have one that will work, its just chrome and has a phillips head. Just PM me..

[Casper]

4X4 you mail box is full. I do not need a screw. Sorry for the miscommunication. I the right one in all my cars and a couple spares! :)

[4x4_Racer]

Mail Box is fixed! I had too many in the "sent" folder.

[megaglow_z]

Thanks.went to LHS and did a little kit bashing.
found some 4-40 1 3/4 screws and just used a small alum spacer.worked like a champ!
now i just have to figure out this rx i got...lol
Its an rx i got in a parts buy of "misc parts"

anyone got any ideas on the pin out's?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/megaglowz/P1010003.jpg

Ive got 1 more.

Shoot me a PM... Its a 4-40 bolt. You can choose the head type of your choice. I couldn't find any either, closest I got was going to the local nut/bolt store (whom is sponsoring my car), and they gave me a couple. They are phillips button though, and chrome.

You wouldn't get it for a couple weeks, since christmas. But, if your not planning on racing or bashing till after that. It would work out.

[megaglow_z]

got it all sorted out.

Now on to the show of the show and go...lol

Where is a good place that has a lot of body choices and takes paypal??

[microrcdude]

Try Horizon. But i prefer www.jconcepts.net

[got2bqik]

Just got finished preping all the trucks to go play at a local ( 50 miles away ) track. Got 2 chargers going and 4 batts left to charge. Taking my mf2 and mini-t sons stampede and mini-t all but the pede are brushless. First outing to the track for the mf2. The setup is probably good but don't have any pin tires for the front just ribs. Just practice so we'll see. I syched.
Tim

[Casper]

For most tracks a ribbed front tires works best. What rear tires do they run at your local track?

[got2bqik]

Step pins in back blades in front. The surface is sandy not loose sand like at a beach, but a packed clay with a loose top layer.Like the sand used in mortar or concrete. A tricky surface for me you have to be light and smooth on the throtle or you end up chasing the rear end.
Tim

[got2bqik]

Well it was a little damp at the track the front ribs stayed clogged the step pins cleaned themselves and hooked really well could wheellie at most any point down front straight.Had a great time. Some of the nitro guys must never seen a electric on brushless and lipo ( only had a 2s in it ) Had problems with my esc brakes were not there so it was pushing real bad couldn't brake and set up for the corners. Know a little more now what I need to work on on my set up. Was set up for no traction batts shifted to the rear soft rear need to reverse that or go to neutral. Anyhow had a blast. Clean em up and get ready for parking lot wars at work.
Latter,
Tim

[rigrishracer22B]

When I race I set my car to neutral after every race and adjust it according to the track the next week during practice..since our track changes so much..

[losixxx-t]

Just wanted to say that the information on this site is amazing. I bought a xxx-t (rtr) the day after x-mas, sold my son my Rustler xl-5. All I can say is....WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! I love this thing. My Rusty was beefed up with bearings and such, so it would hold it's own on the track, but this Losi is a whole different animal. It's like switching from an old VW bug to a new Lexus! Anyway, just wanted to say hi to everyone, and say thanks for the info you guys provide. It has already helped me tremendously with my new "baby". Thanks again! :D

[megaglow_z]

Just wanted to say that the information on this site is amazing. I bought a xxx-t (rtr) the day after x-mas, sold my son my Rustler xl-5. All I can say is....WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! I love this thing. My Rusty was beefed up with bearings and such, so it would hold it's own on the track, but this Losi is a whole different animal. It's like switching from an old VW bug to a new Lexus! Anyway, just wanted to say hi to everyone, and say thanks for the info you guys provide. It has already helped me tremendously with my new "baby". Thanks again! :D
Awsome!
Hows it going with it so far????

[rcaboveall]

OK guys, I have a problem but can't figure it out and was hoping for some suggestions:

Model: XXX-T
Problem: When I turn the right rear wheel I can hear and feel some binding happening. When I compress the shock it gets worse and affects the rotation of the wheel. I've tried adjusting the tie rods but it still binds. I can't tell if it's the gearbox or the CVDs that are causing the issue. The CVDs are original and are in pretty good shape. I just don't know if I should spend the time ripping apart the gearbox or invest in some MIP CVDs. It's only binding with the rear right wheel. Any suggestions?

[Casper]

Check the wheel bearings. Then tear into the car. If it only a right side thing either a CVD pin is coming out or something may be bent. Tear down the CVD's. They sell rebuild kits so you do not need to buy whole new assemblies.

[rcaboveall]

Check the wheel bearings. Then tear into the car. If it only a right side thing either a CVD pin is coming out or something may be bent. Tear down the CVD's. They sell rebuild kits so you do not need to buy whole new assemblies.

The CVD turns just fine through the wheel bearings once its disconnected from the diff. They don't look bent either, but I'll take another look at them. I wonder what would happen if I took the CVD off the other side and swapped them. hmmm... thanks for your help.

[Casper]

Diff problems usually do not effect only one side. Swaping the CVD's is a good idea. Also make sure the outdrives are not notched. The CVD pin may be catching on grooves in the outdrive which could cause a binding like feeling.

[rcaboveall]

Diff problems usually do not effect only one side. Swaping the CVD's is a good idea. Also make sure the outdrives are not notched. The CVD pin may be catching on grooves in the outdrive which could cause a binding like feeling.

I'm not sure what you mean by the outdrives being notched? Doesn't the CVD pin slide into the outdrives? Don't the outdrives connect with the pins that turn the CVDs? Sorry, I might be thinking of something different.

[Casper]

If the outdrive slots are not smooth and flat but have been "dented" for lack of a better word then you may need to replae them.

[rcaboveall]

If the outdrive slots are not smooth and flat but have been "dented" for lack of a better word then you may need to replae them.

Gotcha.. thanks Casper.

[yeti73]

Is the RTR worth investing in? If so, anything that needs replaced right off the bat? I want a general basher. Where's some good places to order Losi parts and stuff?

[losixxx-t]

I have the RTR XXX-T, and the only thing I can suggest is changing the pinion gear before you run it. The 19t motor burnt up in mine after 3 days ,cause it was waaayy overgeared. Id go with a 17 or 18 tooth pinion.
The truck comes with a 20t installed. (Losi wanted me to send the motor AND speed control back to them for evaluation), and I had to pay for shipping. I bought a Speed Gems Pro Titanite for mine, and it screams :D

You might want to invest in the bigger front bumper, and titanium rear ball studs for the camber links if you're gonna' be bashing alot. And stock up on some extra control arms and shock towers. :teacher: For parts, try
http://www.losipartshouse.com, or Stormer Hobbys. Good luck.
Oh, by the way, the radio that comes with it is really nice!

[juntom10]

xxx t is a nice car!!!

[dhauch]

hi,
anyone know where i can buy one of these kits new, or does anyone have a rolling chasis they would like to sell ?

thx,
dave hauch

davidhauch@sbcglobal.net

[juntom10]

Kit version of xxx t is xxx t mf2

you can get from here

www.horizonhobby.com

[dhauch]

Kit version of xxx t is xxx t mf2
you can get from here
www.horizonhobby.com

i would like to find a roller that was the version before the MF2.

dave hauch

[losixxx-t]

Try your LHS, or Stormer hobbies. The xxx-t is an awesome truck. I just bought a mini-t, and a micro-t. Theyre both cool too, and a blast to drive! :D

[SandHawg]

I'm having trouble getting the diff to screw together. Almost like the diff screw is too short to reach the diff nut. I remember having this trouble before and somehow got it together but no luck this time. Any hints?

[Tim'sLosi]

Does the MF2 chassis fit the MF1? Thanks

[Casper]

Yes they are identical.

[juntom10]

oh my god..

i got moab tires for mf2...

so nice..

this thing wheelie on the grass...

[juntom10]

here is a pic

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/juntom10/DSCF0605.jpg

:D

[eau_man]

Hi all,
I just got a great condition 2nd hand MF2 off ebay to race having owned a RTR2 basher a few months back to which all i did was add graphite parts before i sold it.

Anyways with the latest one I also got a cheap GM V3R & Trinity P2K2 motor & GP3300 battery to go with it till I can afford a brushless setup. However I am getting a wierd noise when I hit full throttle 8/10 times on a decent traction surface. I am able to hold the right wheel & spur gear & cannot move the left wheel at all, I slackened off the slipper so it was just hooking up & it seemed to help a little but was then not accellerating too quick. I then found a thread mentioning moving the pinion gear out as it may be catching which i did but no change.

I then went to check the adjustment of the diff but I'm not sure if I was doing this right?? I removed the left dogbone & looking inside the outdrive in the centre all I could see was a small hole like the size of a 3mm allen key where i was expecting to see a flat slot for a diff adjustment screw or am I on the wrong planet here or have I missed something??

Also another wierd thing is occasionally when I flip the truck while driving around the yard the Spektrum DX2 setup I'm using either reverses the throttle or appears to loose the binding with the transmitter & I have tried a different sr3000 receiver & it happens with that one too, very odd I know but if anyone got any clues they would be welcome.

Finally my motor gets real hot real quick, like I could smell that hot motor smell just from doing say 6 x 12 ' runs on my lounge carpet when checking the slipper adjustment. I put paper between the spur & pinion when connecting the motor too. Although I know theyr'e not too accurate on the motor casing after a run in the yard my nitro infra-red temp gun was reading 160 at various points around the motor ?

Anways thanks in advace,

EauMan

[Chevy-SS]

Tire vibration question here -

I've been club racing my MF2 for a couple of years. It's been the best RC value I ever had. I get lots of race time with minimal headaches and expense. It's truly a great vehicle to race with. I usually race a nitro class and the MF2.

Anyway, my question is on tire wobble and vibration. I have tried to be as absolutely careful as possible mounting tires, trying to get them perfectly mounted, yet I always wind up with some fairly heavy vibration when I spin them up (whilst holding the truck in my hand).

I'm sure I'm losing speed and handling because of this. Do you guys notice vibration? Do you care? How do you get rid of it?

thanks

[b15_blasphemy]

One possible solution to your differential problem is to order a new screw that holds it together. The one with the slot for external adjustability. From what I read, it sounds like the person you ordered it from used the wrong screw to put it together. I could be wrong, though. I've had a few diff problems in my experience, but nothing like this.

---

Do you cut the corner edges off of the foam inserts to create a more simulated 'curve' before inserting the foam into the tire and mounting the tire onto the wheel? I read in an article once that if you cut the edges of your foam inserts, it helps to maintain the profile of the curved tire better.

You could also have dirt or moisture trapped inside your tire. I'm not sure how to get rid of the dirt, but to get rid of the moisture, cut tiny holes (the ip of a hobby knife) in the contact patches of the tire and run the truck while holding it in your hand. The centrifugal force of the spinning should allow your tire to rid itself of some of the water trapped inside.

Those are the only two things that come to mind right off the bat. I hope this helps.

[Chevy-SS]

Motor question - my MF2 has been running great for three years, but now the Novak SS5800 brushless motor is cutting in and out. Any ideas what could be wrong? I've tried a couple of different battery packs, so it's not a battery problem.............

thanks

[MikeBusch2]

I had a servo that was cutting out. I replaced the connector lead going to the receiver and that fixed the problem.

[billmck]

Tire vibration question here -

I've been club racing my MF2 for a couple of years. It's been the best RC value I ever had. I get lots of race time with minimal headaches and expense. It's truly a great vehicle to race with. I usually race a nitro class and the MF2.

Anyway, my question is on tire wobble and vibration. I have tried to be as absolutely careful as possible mounting tires, trying to get them perfectly mounted, yet I always wind up with some fairly heavy vibration when I spin them up (whilst holding the truck in my hand).

I'm sure I'm losing speed and handling because of this. Do you guys notice vibration? Do you care? How do you get rid of it?

thanks

i'v also been racing the mf2 for a few years. i balance ft and rear tires for racing. i use the same stuff that is used to seal automotive ac boxes(under the hood)(i'm a auto tech) and i actually bend the wheels straight. just look at the ball cup while spinning the tire slowly. from what i see, ft tires out of balance will cause pushing in a corner after a high speed straight. rear tires out of balance will cause the rear to swing/or swing more in a corner after a straight. when you start balancing tires you'll find that you would rather not run a race if the tires arn't balanced. personally i balance and keep balanced all tires i run with....oh, and you can also use 'silly-putty' or something similar.

bill

[Chevy-SS]

Bill, thanks for the balancing tips. I gotta do something. There is just way too much vibration. As you say, wheels out-of-round as well. You say you "bend" the wheels? Are you using a little heat or just bending them cold? Are you bending the wheel itself, prior to mounting the tire? Or are you bending the whole assembly?

I think I jinxed myself in the previous post (post #1210) where I said how trouble-free this vehicle is. I am sending in my SS 5800 brushless for service, hahahahahahah. Hopefully they'll just sell me a newer version at a discounted price.

Thanks, Dave

-

[GSMnow]

I posted about the wheel wobble on the MF2 thread. I am currently running a set of XTM Accelerator wheels. They are a bit thicker plastic and are holding true a bit better than the Losi wheels. They are a perfect fit right down to the correct offset. when I "bend" then back straight cold, they just go back to wobbling in couple laps. I marked the high spots, and sure enough, it is the same place. I have not tried hot benidng yet. I have 3 sets of wobblers, so I may try "fixing" one set. I have had good luck bending plastics in very hot water, but I don't think that is a good idea with the foam in the tires. My most worn set is not bad enough to peal off the rims yet.

The diff not having an adjust screw slot sounds like the diff is in backwards. Try pulling the right axle and look for the slot.

Diff screw too short?? Make sure all of the thrust bearing parts and washers are in the right place and you have the corrent coil spring. Losi has a heacy duty spring kit that I think used a longer screw. My stock MF2 diff went together easy with some space when the threads started, so something is certainly not right if it won't start.

Balancing wheels... I have one front that was so out of balance, it has a fair sized metal wood screw in the rim and that side is still a little light. The problem is in the tire. The rubber was much thicker on one side than the other. I can only static balance, I wish I could dynamic balance for side to side as well as radial weight errors like full size car tires, but the static alone is a big help when they are this far out. Sick on lead weights also work pretty good, but I have had them come off.

[chilledoutuk]

I have a xxxt mf1 but the power of my plettenberg extreme is too much for the transmission would it be possible to fit a mf2 transmission if so what parts would i need to change to do so?

[GSMnow]

The Pletty is probably even a tick more powerful than my MM5700, but the MF1 trans should be able to take it with careful assembly.

Here ae the Losi part #'s that make the Gen 2 diff really tough and they should fit the MF1 diff as well.
A2911 Diff nut assy.
A2933 H.D. Diff spring set and screw set
A6951 Carbide Diff balls
A3070 Diff rings
A3099 H.D. thrust bearing assy.

The diff gear itself is a different dia. but the ring of balls and the center hole is the same so it should work fine.

The outdrives are A2935 and if you use them, you would also need the shorter dog bones A3091.

The idler gear and top gear should not be a problem at all. But use the aluminum wheel spacer in place of the plastic one so the heat from the slipper does not melt it. And speaking of the slipper... Then other thing I used on my old gearbox is the spur gear and slipper pads from an Associated T4 truck. The pads are tougher and tolerate alot of slippage without getting too hot or binding. I am able to set it so it slips enough to keep from doing wheelies and even though it hits 180F on the slipper plates, it holds the adjustment and just keeps working. Tighten it a bit and I can lift the front tires at will and still protect the diff from ever slipping. And that is the real trick, run the diff as tight as you can with it still working as a diff.

I hope that does it for you.

[GSMnow]

How is this for some IRONY?

Racing last night I had a serious failure in my XXX-T MF2. The weather has gotten quite a bit colder at night and as a result, my slipper was REALLY slipping for the second qualifier. I could not get off the line and had trouble out of every turn so I was down to dead last in a hurry. About halfway through the race it made enough heat to start working right and I ended up 4th out of 6 with mid pack lap times. For the main it was colder out so I decided to tighten up the slipper for the start. I guess I went a little too tight. I got a good launch and was side by side with the TQ for 1st, dropped to a steady second on lap 2 and was holding him in sight. I completed lap three coming over a small double jump at the start of the long straight. In practice and early heats, I would hit the first hill, eas off the throttle in flight, and roll on the power as it touched down. Too much power and I would pull a wheelie and have to get out to steer it. Well, this time I was 15 feet behind the leader and wanted to stay on him, so I hit the first hill a bit faster, took too much air and was about to flat land past the second hill. My desire to catch up got the best of me and I got on the throttle too hard before it touched down. OOPS, the tires hit and it went CRACK!!! bzzzzzz. I though the spur gear stripped, but no so lucky, it split the gear case right in half separating the idler gear from the diff. Race over. There is a chance there may have been previous crash damage, but I did look it over before the main and didn't see any stress marks anywhere on the gearbox. I think it was just the motor torque forcing the gears apart. To my total surprise, the diff and gears all look fine. It let go completely so it didn't mess up the gears. I did tear it all down and my still original diff is holding up fine. 6 months of Mamba Max power and the only thing not taking it is the gear case. I think I will be buying another Associated T4 spur gear and slipper pads. They are much more consistent than the Losi one so I can set it cold and it still works hot. I just need to buy another gear box for $6, not too bad, but it took me out of a solid A-main run. I am trying to figure out if I can brace it better. I cracked 2 gearboxes before from bad crashes. It is a very stressed part on the XXX-T.

[stripbuilder]

I'm just getting back into r/c cars and I orginally used to have an older MRC stadium truck. And a few years ago I ended up getting a Ofna Hyper 7 PBR 1/8th scale 4wd buggy. Now I'm car-less and im looking for an electric truck that I could also maybe get into racing with. I was looking into the xxx-t sport RTR brushless and wanted to know if that would be a good truck to maybe start off again with and eventually bring over to some races?

[juntom10]

umm.. if your budget is good... i recommand to buy xxx t cr kit + brushless system like mamba, LRP, or NOVAK.

the brushless system in brushless rtr is not good...and it's not worth it.

[GSMnow]

I bought almost 10 months ago, so I bought the MF2, CR was announced 2 months after I got it. I did the same comparison, the MF2 came with so many hop up parts that it was far cheaoer in the long run than upgrading the lesser kit or an RTR. The brushless system in the XXX-T RTR is pretty cheesy. The ESC is limiter, the motor has plastic end bells and a bonded rotor. It is certainly far better than brushed RTR systems, but it basically won't ever go any faster. LOSI announced their new sensorless brushless setup. I bet it won't take long for it to replace the gimped Novak system in the RTRs. By the numbers, it sure looks like a Mamba Max (or Traxxas VXL). Will LOSI make an RTR CR? How is that for a contradiction? "Ready to Run"..."Competition Ready".

[stripbuilder]

Thanks for the help. Sounds like I should go with the CR. I'm glad I didn't haul off and buy anything yet. I'll probably just go ahead and get the CR kit with a Mamba Max. Now one more question. I play big brother for a kid on a budget. And it would be better for him to get an RTR, any suggestions on what? I was thinking maybe the traxxas, but since I've been messing with cars I know traxxas has a strong car but not necessarily something you can hop up for competition later on. What do you think?

[GSMnow]

The main thing to check when buying a vehicle to race is... Does a local hopbby shop carry the parts? Preferably a good stock and a short turnaround if they don't have it on the shelf. This made my choice either Losi or Associated. I personally like the Losi because they are very tough and easy to work on. Though I do have a few issues with the MF2. I think they traded off a little too much of their toughness for a tick more speed. For me the trade off is a bit too far. I would rather have a little more weight and not break "T" plates and gear box housings. The parts are cheap, and usually in stock, but a "T" plate took me out of the main tonight. And they are on back order!

While I am here, I should ask... Does anyone know what parts need to be changed to fit the new XXX-T CR Gearbox, T-plate, and rear arm holder onto an MF2?The parts look tougher, and the EA3 material is more forgiving when you do crash hard. Will the MF2 shock tower bolt up to the CR T-plate? I know I nbeed different gears in the trans, but will all the bearings move over? And will the diff parts move to the other diff gear, or will I need CR outdrives, etc.? I am looking over the Losi parts lists, but it is hard to tell without holding the parts together.

[stripbuilder]

Thank you for helping me out. I've done some homework and I think I've come up with the truck I plan on building for a budget I think I can handle. Please if you have any suggestion on if it sounds good or bad, or you would change something tell me. Remember I need to get EVERYTHING again.

Losi XXX-T CR
Mamba 5700 w/ esc
(I have no clue what kind of radio, looking into the 2.4 ghz any suggestions?)
IB4200 Batteries
Ice Battery Charger

I was looking into the spectrum radios, are those any good?

[GSMnow]

Sounds like my setup, just updated to the CR from the MF2.

How large is the track you run on? I have the 5700, and it can be a bit touchy on a tight track. The ower and speed is amazing, but you need a delicate finger to control it on smaller tracks. I am looking into lower KV motors as I have plenty of room to gear up.

The CR should be more durable than the MF2. The two parts I have had trouble breaking have both been addressed on the CR and should hold up great.

I have 3 IB4200 packs and they do run strong, but after 60-100 cycles, they are down to 3800 mAh now. Still make over 10 minutes and can pull wheelies, but they do age. My 4th pack is an EP4200. It was a tick stronger than the IB's when new, and seems to be holding better, but has only half the cycles so far, time will tell. Either cells are good, but the EP's may be a little better in the long run. I hope to get a pair of 2S 3000 to 4000 LiPo's but not until my local track allows them for club races. They do cost more, but last 3 times as many cycles and pump out alot more current without losing voltage.

I went from an old AM system to the Spektrum DX3.0 It does what they advertise and it is so nice being able to switch on and run without even thinking about frequencies. My only complaint is that it does have a tick of control lag. I used to run a servoi with a .20 transit time, and with the lag of the radio, it was noticeable. I recently upgraded to a servo rated at .09 second transit time and it really helped. The servos that come with the DX3.0 are just too slow. It does not help that the Mamba Max BEC is only 5.0 volt. Where I really noticed the control issue was when I would apply too much power and break the rear tires loose. With the old AM radio, I could counter steer and get back straight with little fuss. When I first got the DX I was late with the correction but over correcting as well. And this made for tagging the walls on the 8 foot wide straight. The new DX3R cures all of the delay issues. It uses 2 channels at once, so even if something stomps on your signal, the other channel shjould get the command through. It also uses a lower latency signal, less than half the time, and runs a faster frame rate, up to double if your ESC and servos can take it. Of course, announced just weeks after I bought my DX3.0 and it is quite a bit more money.

The ICE is a very nice charger. It is the direct brother to my CheckPoint TC1030. The only real differences are the backlit display and higher max charge and discharge rates. The backlight is very nice, but not worth the cost difference. I also rarely use the higher rates. I got the TC1030 because it was on a good sale making it only a $12 difference at the time. Now I could get the ICE for $50 less than I paid. Oh well.

Your package choice will certainly be capable of serious speed on most any track. The MM5700 is a brute of a power house. You might want to put a moderate brush motor in for a bit to get a feel of the handling before going all out with the insane power. I went from a Trinity CO27 stock motor to the MM5700, and my lap times got worse for 3 weeks before I trained my trigger finger. I am still learning to be consistant with it because it is just so easy to overpower the chassis with this motor system.

[stripbuilder]

I appreciate the help. I'm definitely going to get the xxx-t cr, and as for a radio I haven't decided yet. Although I am researching like a mad man on batteries.

I plan on using NiMH but I'm not ready to spend a minimum of $45.00 for good 4200's. So I've taken it into my own hands to craft my own. I know some people in the industry I work in who sell all sorts of Sub C NiMH batteries. Anything from 3800 MaH to 5000 MaH. And I've been doing some research and I'm going to talk to an electrical engineer I know. If my hypothesis about me making my own batteries comes out to be trues. I'll be able to craft a 6 cell NiMH 5000 MaH for a little under $20.00. I just need to make sure that the amps im getting out of them and the internal resistance is adequate enough for the mamba max to get maximum performance.

What do you think?

[GSMnow]

If you really want to build your own paks from bulk cells, you need some form of matcher to test them. One weak cells can make a good pack into junk. In order of importance, internal resistance, capacity, and average voltage under load. I have a Checkpoint TC1030 charger, it can do NiCd, NiMh, LiIon, and LiPo cells. Come up with a cell holder and run each cell through a few cycles and track all the numbers and choose the closest ones into packs. I used to do it in the old days with Sanyo SCR cells. The problem is you really need to test alot of cells to get the good ones. And testing one cell at a time takes WEEKS to really do enough. Competition electronics makes the Turbo Matcher that does 4 or 8 cells at a time, but it costs alot more than a few packs.

[carolinafalls]

What parts would I need to go from MF1 to the new CR quick change hubs? Thanks

[GSMnow]

I have not looked at the two parts lists, or held them side by side, but from memory, the biggest difference is the new EA3 chassis that is a bit longer. The greabox and rear suspension mount setup look like they went back to the MF1 system. I have the MF2 and it is very different from all of the other XXX-T's. The MF2 shares parts with the BK2 buggy and nothing else. The quick change hubs require a few parts to put on to any previous electric. You need new rear uprights, axles, and CVD's. And if you don't have the VLA rear arms, you will need those as well. I looked into putting them on my MF2, and figured it is not worth it. Only in 20 minute racing are you going to need to swap tires in a hurry. And even there, I think I can make a set last for 20 min.

[clbx4]

I’m having an issue with my 2.43:1 diff on my xxxt. I was initially running a Novak 5.5r system with 5000mAh Lipo. After chewing up my diff, I thought the 5.5R was too much motor. I then changed to the 7.5R and was still having the same problem. I must be doing something wrong with the rebuild. I continue to melt the diff gear where the carbide ball bearings are housed after the first run. I’m following the instruction that came with the kit, using a good amount of diff grease and work it as I tighten the screw that goes through the out drive.

[GSMnow]

Which thrust bearing assembly are you using? Losi has an extra heavy duty bearing kit and a tougher spring and nut set. Also use new rings and balls on the next build and be very careful to get no dirt or grit in the grease. Loosen the slipper clutch so you hear it slip at moderate acceleration and drive it very easy for a short time and check the diff. Keep tightening it after a short easy drive with a lot of tight turns. Keep doing this for at least a whole pack to get the rings and balls seated. Run the diff as tight as you can where it still works as a diff. With the truck in ready to drive setup, lift the front off the ground and pivot it around the rear tires. As long as they turn opposite and don't slip on the ground, the diff. is not too tight yet. Any looser is too loose.

Once that is set, now you can adjust the slipper. I HATE THE LOSI SLIPPER PADS!! They change amount of slip greatly with temperature. Even slipping easy cold will tighten up and rip a diff once they get hot from the slipping. You will be much happier with an Associated T4 slipper gear and pads. It fits right on and works perfectly. Whatever slipper you use, set it just tight enough to get the acceleration you can use. I place a body clip in the gear mesh to jam the gears from rolling backwards. Then turn the tires back and watch what happens. I set mine so it just can't get the front tires off of the ground. If you have the tires turned, it may lift one, but not both. This is not loose enough to stop a wheelie because the dynamics of pushing the truck forward will easilly push the rear tires under the chasis and still lift the front tires if you have good traction. The slipper will just save the diff from melting. The slipper must ALWAYS slip before the diff. If you ever hear a honk under acceleration, reset the diff. I have been running a Mamba Max 5700 geared for just 35 mph for 8 months and I have never melted a diff gear. I pull wheelies at will so I have no lack of torque and my associated slipper pads are still like new.

[tucsonbroker]

Thank you for helping me out. I've done some homework and I think I've come up with the truck I plan on building for a budget I think I can handle. Please if you have any suggestion on if it sounds good or bad, or you would change something tell me. Remember I need to get EVERYTHING again.

Losi XXX-T CR
Mamba 5700 w/ esc
(I have no clue what kind of radio, looking into the 2.4 ghz any suggestions?)
IB4200 Batteries
Ice Battery Charger

I was looking into the spectrum radios, are those any good?

For this season, I'm building the same truck. My current MF2 has a Novak GTB 7.5 but I am considering the Mamba 5700 as well. I will keep the Nomadio Sensor radio and will keep using the Maxamps Lipo's. Instead of the 8000 MAH batteries which weigh a lot, I will scale back to something lighter.

The only thing I'm not sure about is that the Mamba doesn't have a fan and I had heard about heat issues. Any thoughts?

[GSMnow]

Geared reasonably, I have never had any thermal shut downs on my Mamba Max 5700 system. Last summer I raced in 110+ heat with no fan and it did get hotter than I was comfortable with, but it still didn't shut down. I even had it over geared during testing and the motor got pretty hot, over 205F but it still kept pulling great and I am still using that same motor. The ESC never got over 180F, even in serious ambient heat. I felt that was too hot for a long life, so I added a 25x25x10 mm 5 volt fan. I used a pair of 2.5 mm screwn and they threaded right between the heat sink fins, it looks like a factory fit. You could just plug it into any un-used plug oif the RX, but since I had a "mishap" and tore off the RX cable, I now have it spliced in there for a very clean install. With just this tiny fan, the ESC never goes over 150F now, usually stays under 130 in racing. I am running a Spektrum DX3.0 system. It works very well, and running alone I have never had a single glitch. Running at the track with 20+ 2.4 Ghz systems though, I have seen an occasional lag in response or when it is really bad, I have had it go to failsafe settings for a fraction of a second. Then new DX3R cures both problems by using double the data rate and 2 channels at once, so even if one fails to get through, it still has full control. Even with the tiny hickuos I have had, it is way better than any crystal based system I have used. No clips, never a loss of control.

[Needler56]

i just recently picked up what originally was an rtr with the 2.43 internal drive ratio. it was just the rolling chassis, but i've added a tekin g12c esc, tekin chrome shielded rx, panasonic sxs 3000 mAh cells and a trinity dirtinator d3.5 13x2.

i went by the gearing recommendations for the mf1 edition using an 86/17 spur/pinion combo. with that gearing the motor and motor plate get pretty hot, hot enough to where you can't leave your finger on it too long. the esc doesn't get hot nor does the cells. i'll take temps when i get a chance.

now, i want to add more bottom end and if i do, will the motor run hotter? the next combo i can do for more bottom end is an 88/16, which is my largest spur and smallest pinion.

[GSMnow]

The slower gearing (smaller pinion and/or larger spur) will both give more punch and lower the motor temp. You may want to get a couple even smaller pinions. It really depends on the track (bash area) you are running in. The best use of the motor power is to have it really top out in your fastest area. On a track this is the longest straight. Gearing any faster makes alot of heat and shorter run time (and motor life with brushes.)

I don't know what kind of rpm range the 13x2 dirtinator will spin, so I can't give exact gearing suggestions. But figuring Novak claims their 6.5 is close to a 13, that would be about 5900 rpm per volt, plus a bit of loss. I'll just use 5,000 x 7 volts for 35,000 rpm at the motor. If that is right, 15 or 16 to 88 should be in the ball park for 30 - 35 mph which is about all you can expect in a brush motor without a melt down. Your 17 to 86 is asking a lot.

[Needler56]

turns out, my slipper was too loose. it doesn't run as hot as when the slipper was loose, was that because it was under light load? between the esc, motor and cells which should stay the coolest? i ran a 21 to 86 just to see the top end and the esc was still cold, cells were at 75 degrees, but the end bell of the motor was 175 degrees.

[VW_Factor]

I had a oops moment today with my XXXT. Full bore from the backyard to the frontyard transfer (sideyard with a little jump), and was a little squirrelly..

Hit the fence, and Im left with two parts of a Losi XXXT. Good part is, only the chassis broke. (yeah, found a weak spot in the front end, :D)

Otherwise, quick questions. Looking at losipartshouse.com part numbers

LOSA4107 - Standard XXXT and LOSA4109 XXXT CR. Are these interchangable? Its my understanding that the CR truck has a graphite chassis? Or am I mistaken? Even with the difference in part number, the cost seems to be identical, bringing up the question. I remember from back in the day that the graphite chassis were a more expensive option.

Anything else I should be looking for?

[GSMnow]

The CR chassis is the newer EA3 composite. a little more flex, but much less likely to crack than the MF2/BK2 graphite chassis, but it is also about 1/4inch (5mm or so) longer. I put a CR body over my MF2, and you could just fake the body mount holes to fit, it is not a huge difference, but keep that in mind, and you will also need the new CR battery hold down.

[VW_Factor]

I cant totally be sure what the specifics of the chassis I had to begin with, which in turn makes my choice more difficult. I bought it as a roller used. From my understanding, it was purchased as an RTR kit. (RTR stamped on a lot of the pieces)

Im figuring its just a plain old chassis.

In short, the 4107 I take it is what I broke today, and the CR is the 4109 and that chassis is a 1/4 longer?

Hmm..

[GSMnow]

I am not the expert, but from what I know, the standard XXX-T's all used the same chassis. The MF and MF2 trucks got the graphite version. And the nbew CR is the EA3 longer.

I am less sure of the buggies. I think the normal XXX buggy chassis was a little shorter and the BK buggies, got the graphite version that might be the length of the standard T version, or it may be shorter. I know there is at least 3 different battery hold down lengths.

[VW_Factor]

I went ahead and ordered the CR chassis (I can make a new custom pack hold down) for the chassis.

I understand the "Fury" style body will not fit properly (at least with the current mounting holes) but that I might be able to pop a few new holes in the front for the added length.

I was looking into new bodies anyway, which begs to question.. Which bodies do fit the CR chassis? I know the "stock Losi CR" body will fit, however.. Are the bodies for the MF2 the same length? In looking for aftermarket bodies, I cannot seem to find any bodies that specifically mention the CR truck.. What should I be looking for?

[kickeddirt]

I have had my CR for about a month and spent some time looking for other bodies and wheels and have not had any luck. I'm not sure if it's because it's new or what. It is the best truck though.

[GSMnow]

I would move the rear holes back on the body. If you pull the body back on the chassis, the front arms will hit at the front wheel arches. There is more room at the back. Anyh body that fits the XXX-T MF2 should fit with the rear holes moved back.

[GSMnow]

Okay, here is my problem.

I have very poor rear grip. I have tried many different things to try and improve rear grip, and went to even loosing front grip to get better bapance. I got it to work fair on a dry semi dusty track, but when they watered it tonight, it was LOOSE all over the place.

To try and make it push, I am running stiff green front springs and soft yellow rear springs. 50wt oil in front anf 35 wt in back. Worn ProLine EDGE medium compound (M2) front tires. Fresh medium compound (red dot) Losi T-Bont tires. The T-Bones are rated as an "A" for a hard dusty surface, which is what I had for practice when I came to this setup, and they did work, but the drop to a "B" rating for a damp hard surface which is what we ran tonight. I also checked the Pro Line tire app chart and guess what happened there? The EDGE front tire is recomended in M2 compound on a moist track, they want M3 on the dusty track, so it looks like my front tires came in with the water as my rears went out. OUCH!! It looks like I will be getting a couple pairs of Taper Pins for the back. The big problem is they just wear out too fast. They recomend the silver compound for most of the conditions I usually see, getting A's on damp, wet, or blue groove tracks, as well as for abrasive and broken, and getting B's for Slick, dry, and dusty. For dry or dusty the pink super soft gets the A's. Red bridges the range with A's for slick dry and abrasive, and B's for blue groove, wet, damp, and dusty.

Does anyone here think the tires alone could make it go from pretty good in dusty to this tail happy in the damp, even with my spring shock setup leaning way towards push? I am using pretty much the box stock positions for the shocks and camber links. The rear anti squat is 2 shims. Camber is just 1/8 inch neg in back, about 0 in front. I have even gone to positive front camber, but I could not make the fast sweep at the end of the straight in the dusty conditions. Tonight I looped it and just had to come in slower. The rear toe is stock at 2 degrees. Front toe is a hair in for stability. I even checked all of the shocks, none are low on oil, no binding anywhere. I even times laps, and sure enough, I was 2 to 3 seconds a lap slower on the damp than I was on the dust, which seems backwards to me. I usually can't get a good handle when it is dry and dusty, so I figured when I got it to not be tail happy there, I figured I would do better in the damp, not this much worse. For the first qualifier, the track was getting dry by the end, and I did turn a high 27 second lap. In the main with fresh water down just 2 heats earlier, I could not break under a high 29, most of my laps were mid 30. When I was practicing on the totally dry and somewhat dusty track, I got down into the mid 25's. I should have easilly done 12 laps, I could not break 11. Really a 10 as I just got past the line and my 11th lap was over at 320 seconds, and our first laps were only about 10 seconds due to the start on the back and the timing line on the front.

Anyone have any ideas to get more rear grip in the MF2? I am running A LOT of ballast weight, so I can easilly move it around. Right now it is pretty close to centered at the C.G. of the truck, all around and under the super light LiPo battery. I am still lighter than when I ran the EP4200 cells, but not by much now. Without any balast, I am way illegal with the MaxAmps 3000 shrink wrapped packs. Now I am about 3 ounces over minimum weight, and it sure helped put down power with the weight near the back of the battery tray. But is rear weight going to make it more tail happy in steady state? I am pretty good at dialing in the dynamic changes from braking to accelerating with the shock oil, but the steady state has to be right first, and it isn't. I had to be on power to keep it from going into serious oversteer in the sweeper, soi I actually had to slow early, and put some throttle back in to make a nice arc. If I lifted, it was spin city. Under smooth gradual acceleration it pushes more and more until I over power the rear tires, in which case, of course it spins out. From steady state throttle to coast, and especially any braking, it is LOOSE LOOSE LOOSE. I expected the power on push, and NEED it to use the insane power of the Mamba Max 5700, but I still want at least a little understeer at steady state. I can always stab some break if I need to get the tail out. If this was on road, I would use a front sway bar. Too bad the Losi front sway bar setup makes the front end too fragile. I broke a bulkhead trying to run it. It eliminates the aluminum pin brace, and replaces it with a plastic part to hold the bar, and the link setup to the front arms binds pu too easy in the dirt. I am looking into adapting the rear bar setup for the front. Mount it on the shock tower and use ball links, but there is not much room to work with.

I hope someone has some ideas to try. I am stripping 2 sets of rims for the Taper Pin tires. I want both a red and silver set. I also think I will get a set of B rated tires for the front. I have seen quite a few run the Taper Pins all around. What do any of you think?? Maybe I will wet the track on a practice day, but that is a real pain to do alone.

Thanks in advance for any ideas to try.

[Monsterbrad]

Any of you guys have the part number for the aluminum rear pivot block??
Will the new one for the CR truck fit on my older XXX T truck??

[Monsterbrad]

Any of you guys have the part number for the aluminum rear pivot block??
Will the new one for the CR truck fit on my older XXX T truck??
Rear pivot block
Any one
Aluminum one please
part #

[Racin Rev]

Sorry, I don't have a number but dynamite (horizon hobby) and trinity used to carry them and likely still do. go to their web sites and look them up.

Not a lot of help i know but hopefully a little help.

[cancruiser]

It seems this thread is pretty much dead but I am hoping someone is still reading it :confused:

I have a first gen XXXT Spec truck that has been running great until recently. The diff will not stay tight. I have rebuilt it twice over the last couple of weeks and I get about 2-5 minutes of run time and then the diff spins loose again.

Any ideas what I should be looking for? As mentioned I have completely rebuilt the diff twice now and it will just not stay together.

[GSMnow]

I have a first gen XXXT Spec truck that has been running great until recently. The diff will not stay tight. I have rebuilt it twice over the last couple of weeks and I get about 2-5 minutes of run time and then the diff spins loose again.

The first thing you need to do is tear down the diff and inspect all of the parts. My guess is that your thrust bearing is shot. Replace the thrust bearing assembly and the screw and nut/retainer. The rings should have a slight groove in them where the balls ride, this is fine. The balls are hard to really inspect. If they are shinny, they are steel, and may be flat spotted. If you have a hard flat surface, and something hard and flat, you can try rolling them between the surfaces. It should roll very smooth, if it is rough, the balls are flat spotted and should be replaced. Check your assembly manual, you can still get them online. Make sure the parts are all stacked in the correct direction. Losi did change around how the ball bearings fit. My MF2 has the bearing in the out drive installed from where the diff gear rides. The XXX-4 and MF1 have he bearing installed through the dog bone cup. The thrust bearing rides on a shim over the bearing. Both systems work great, but make sure it is together correct for the one you have. The diff gear should have square holes for the balls, and they should fit tight enough to not fall out. If they do fall out, or they are not square hole, just replace the gear, it is cheap.

One you have it assembled, you need to break it in a little and adjust it carefully. Before you install it in the gearbox, use 2 allen wrenches in the out drive to hold in in one hand. Try to turn the gear. Slowly tighten the screw a little at a time until you can barely slip it. It should be firm. Now hold each out drive in each hand and turn them opposite, it should be very free and smooth, not gritty. If it is gritty, it is either dirty, or the balls need to be replaced. Once you have it tight, but smooth, install it in the gearbox, and back in the truck. Check your slipper clutch, it must slip before the diff. Drive it hard for a couple seconds, if you hear the diff slip, stop and tighten it a little more, and maybe loosen the slipper a bit. Your slipper clutch must slip before the dioff, or you will ruin it fast. One little test I do is to place a body clip into the teeth of the spur gear. Roll the truck backwards until it hits against the pinion gear. Now pick up the truck by the rear tires. As you try to turn the tires backwards, the slipper should start to slide before you can get the nose of the truck up to 45 degrees from hanging straight down. But most important, you should see the slipper slipping with the diff holding. IT the diff slips and not the slipper, tighten the diff a little more. Once you have it holding, drive it for a full pack and then check it again, you may have to tighten it a bit more. Typically, it will take about 5 packs to get the balls to seat into the rings nicely.

My MF2 diff has held up behind a 2S LiPo Mamba Max for over a year of total abuse. It is still smooth and holds a perfect setting. Good Luck, and check the Losi setup tips on their web site.