Team Losi XXXT Forum v2.0

[Imavol]

Guys I just got back into RC after about 10 years out. Wow how much things have changed in 10 years. I bought an xxxt and love it. I am sure that this has been asked and answered before but after about an hour of looking I cannot find it. What in your opinion is the best basher motor that I can buy? Thanks for the info.

[Casper]

cscade-- The pro 3 bars that promatch sells make the batteries too wide. I run the orion bones and that seems to help. I have not tried the 3300's yet but I have been told the are a VERY tight fit since the are a little taller of a cell. I would just push!

Imavol-- Depending on what you want to do for a good basher stock motor just pick one. They are all strong motors. If you are looking on the mod side of things both Trinity and peak/orion have great lines of budget minded machine wound mod motors. Check them out!

[cscade]

Originally posted by Casper
cscade-- The pro 3 bars that promatch sells make the batteries too wide. I run the orion bones and that seems to help. I have not tried the 3300's yet but I have been told the are a VERY tight fit since the are a little taller of a cell. I would just push!

Calling it a "very tight" fit really doesn't do it justice. There is no way to get this pack to fit in here. Plus, even if I could cram it, isn't the graphite chassis on the MF conductive to electricity? I would think that would cause me problems if so.

[wess]

i don't know if the graphite is conductive, but if you followed your manual closely, the mf kit comes with 2 plastic stickers that line the insides of the battery slot...

[Casper]

That is why I do not run the deans bars anymore! As far as the chassis goes. It should not matter that much. AS long as the reciver is not touching the chassis you will not short the battery or anything like that if that is what you are worried about. I know a lot of guys that do not run the teflon protection on the chassis. It is there to reduce electrical interference.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Deans bars are just fine. You need to use the Pro 2.0 bars though. They are bent in a certain fashion that will allow all the cells to be of equil length across the batt pack. Its still a tight fit, but not overly tight. IMO its better to be tight than loose, and Im not just talking batteries! :D

Also if you use plugs, I reccomend using batt bars on the pos and neg terminals to come up from the side to top of the pack. Then soilder on the connectors if you use them. That way it will give you the clearance you will need all aroung the batt pack.

JR

[Casper]

There is nothing wrong the the deans battery bars as far as function and resistance. The bends they put in them though make the battery too wide. I had this problem with some 3000's I got and have used the orion bars since. That was my point.

[cscade]

Well, I just took the pack back apart and used new bars (that I bent out stright before hand) to put it back together. It just barely fits now, so I'm happy. I just hope I havn't damaged the pack by heating it so many times. These are very nice batteries and I would hate to damage them before I ever get to race!

On a side note, I did one other thing to the new bars before I used them; I drilled out the ends of the bars so that they have much larger holes to solder through. This made for a much stronger joint than when i used the un-drilled bars. The undrilled bars I could snap off the negative poles with my bare hands, the drilled ones seem to hold like mad. Is this a common trick?

[NitroOwnsYou]

Well running the 3300 the cells can either be staggered and ran with the batt bars flat, or you can run the 2.0 bars and they keep the body of the cells even and have the correct bend in them to reach the pos to the neg terminal perfectly.

That was my point. I wasnt ripping on your post, but merely passing on the info that they do work, and just fine at that.

BTW Graphite does carry voltage through the chassis, but its so minimal that it isnt a big worry(I dont think I saw more than a .5 volt on my multimeter). I dont understand the part about the reciever touching the chassis causing shorting. Can you explain deeper. My recievers have all been cased with plastic(A good insulator), and see no phisical way that it could short.

JR

[NitroOwnsYou]

It sounds like the soilder joint wasnt a good joint of you could snap it off easily. Did you scuff the batts and bars upon soildering? I use a little bit of flux to etch the metal also and adhere better. Ive never heard of drilling out batt bars for better joint....

JR

[cscade]

The batteries were scuffed up and tinned with solder before hand, yes. It's just that with the little tiny hole in the bar, not enough could seep through to make a good joint. The positive end was OK, but the negative end was not. Not surprising, as on the deans bars the hole on the negative end is probably about 40% smaller than the positive end.

[Casper]

NitroOwnsYou-- The better you can isolate your reciever and reciever antenna wires from the chassis the less noise it will hear and the better your radio equipment will work. That was my point. You will not short your receiver. I am sorry if I gave that impression. Using servo tape and not having the antenna touch the chassis is a good way to solve some radio problems if you are getting hit. The battery conducting through the chassis and getting to your receiver can be a cause of radio interference.

[NitroOwnsYou]

That statement I follow! :D The other one you said below sounded like Bill Clinton talking! :D

Might want to edit it!

AS long as the reciver is not touching the chassis you will not short the battery or anything like that if that is what you are worried about.

JR

[socaliracer]

I used to run white wheels and i think they look great but the yellow wheels are soo much more visible when your racing

[Moo-Shoe]

If you are having problems with GP3300 cells, it's because of the positive "button". It sticks out too far and actually made the cell not ROAR legal. GP is aware of this and is actually re-tooling to make a cell that will meet ROAR size specs. The old "big-button" cells are being grandfathered in though, so don't worry about running "illegal" cells.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Hrmm I would not believe GP would retool just for a small portion of the battery industry. Also the Sanyo 3000HV and 3300's are larger than ROAR specs also. Ill measure some cells from the GP and 3000HV on my digital calipers. Im curious why they didnt want to approve a great cell like the GP's.


JR

[NitroOwnsYou]

Moo can you post where you read this, so I can get myself up to speed on the GP cells.

Thanks,
JR

[Casper]

www.team-orion.com


http://www.team-orion.ch/global/global_news.asp?id=1560

to be exact.

[Shady]

its also on roar's website and in roar's conferances

[tarvymoto]

Casper , I finally race tested the TRC "Sonic" tires this weekend. They worked great. The track was hard packed/dry with a few grooved spots. I actually took my first A-main Stock truck win at this particular club. The win was a combo of setup, gearing, and just being smooth ...but the tires sure did work. I tested the "Magics" on my NT ... but I just could not get them to hook up...but I think that was 75% setup.

Travy

[Casper]

Great! congrats on the win and thanks for the update!

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Just finished my Matt Francis XXXT... all went together ok. Which upgrades do you think are essential other than the front and rear aluminium Trinity pivot blocks. Can you get these pivot blocks in red and not the Kinwald blue.

Regards,

Sam.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Just finished my Matt Francis XXXT... all went together ok. Except for the plastic washer from the slipper clutch which wasn't supplied in the kit... and the allen thread with no threads... smooth as a baby's bum.

This is my first Losi and I think the truck is excellant, I have always owned Associated (B2 and B3). The Losi probably just pipps the Associated as far as quality goes but I suppose the Losi is newer. (B4 may beat the xxx, time will tell).

Adjusting the diff is a little bizaar when compared to an Associated but it is quite easy.

Which upgrades do you think are essential other than the front and rear aluminium Trinity pivot blocks. Can you get these pivot blocks in red and not the Kinwald blue.

Regards,

Sam.

[clw]

Can anyone offer some advice on which setup to start with? Losi's website has so many it's confusing. The truck is being setup for stock class on fairly loose tracks that require either Holeshots or Step Pins.

I guess the question is for a non-blue groove track is one setup a good place to start.

Thanks

[tarvymoto]

CLW , do you guys wet the track? Is the track very slippery or does it seam to hook up ok? I'm running a version of Adam Drake's "Standard" setup. If the track has good grip try using his setup...... if it's slippery go down 5wt on the shock oil and down one color on the springs.

Travy

As I wright this I'm in the process of setting up one of my kits via the new "standard" matt francis set-up to try at my track...however the drake set up has worked extremely well for me so far. I'm just continuing to expiriment.

[clw]

Originally posted by tarvymoto
CLW , do you guys wet the track? Is the track very slippery or does it seam to hook up ok?

Yes, usually before the mains, so it may be wet or dry depending on how long it is before stock truck is in the rotation. The most often condition is dry sandy clay surface with a hard (clay) base, that's when step pins work. If it's wet or not chewed up by the 1/8 cars Holeshots work well.

Thanks, I'll be curious how the MF setup works, it calls for a roll bar!

[clw]

Looked over the Adam Drake setup and he "drills" one of the pistons! What does that mean??

[tarvymoto]

CLW , good question....it doesn't say how he drilled it. That may be a typo. I just used a standard 56 piston. Try that set up but use 25wt oil all the way around and try Red springs up front and pink in the rear. Start with that and see how you like it.

[Moo-Shoe]

When you drill a shock piston, you are changing the size of one or more holes in the piston. If you are looking for something in between a 57 and a 56 piston, you would take a 57 and drill out one or maybe 2 holes to 56 size. Viola! you have a 56.5 piston. :)

[Little Al]

I'm new here and have a question, It may have been in the past 50 pages but I am still reading thru them and don't think I'll be done anytime soon.

Ok Losi folks I have a XXXT MF and would like to know what are the tricks to getting my front end to sit lower to the ground?

I race every week and the truck never will see out doors I have others to run in the dirt.

I have 40 weight shock oil in the front and 70 in the back as they guys with the track records who are my friends all run the same. I see I am a little higher than them and they sit high too but they have ran out of pointers to give me.

I have yellow springs in the front and orange in the rear too if that helps.

Anyone have any thought about this?:confused:

[tarvymoto]

Al , that shock oil and spring set-up sounds a bit strange , but here is how to lower the front end.

Raise the shock collar( the part on the shock that the top of the shock spring touches)

Turn it counter clock-wise untill you get the desired effect.

Welcome to the forum...and if you have anymore questions just ask.:)

[Little Al]

Thanks tarvymoto, I did mess with that but not long and perhaps I need to try again.....

You'll see me here too now, I have had other Losi and I can't say one bad thing about my MF been racing novice for a few months and now a week or so got into 2 wheel drive class. What a nice truck to run.

[losifreak2004]

Travis - What up T-Dawg? LOL

Moo-shoe - More often, drilled Losi pistons are referred to by the last number of their size. A 5-5-6 would be one 56 hole, two 55 holes.

When the pistons come from the factory, there is a possibility that not all pistons of the "same size" are in fact exactly the same. Many team drivers will start out with 60's, and then drill them to whichever size they wish. Some opt to mark this on their setup sheets, some do not...but this is quite a common practice.

Great to see all the new faces! I have a big race this weekend, but I will do my best (life and time permitting) to come back here more often and post. Feel free to e-mail me at awaldron@teamurc.com or IM me at AaronWaldron1

(P.S. If you wanna see how much I like my XXXT, pick up the Feb 03 issue of RCCA and turn to page 140-144 :D)

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

Aaron , wusss uuppp

Good luck at the race this weekend!!!

[losifreak2004]

It's almost nervous time..

I will try my best to post on Saturday (maybe with pictures) to let you guys know where I sit!

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Aaron-- What is nervous time all about. I thought you were a pro guy. I only have 6 tanks through my new AD and I am not worried. IT is supposed to be fun! :)

[tarvymoto]

Don't worry...the nerves usually disapear shortly after the tone. Good luck to both of you....TEAR IT UP!!!:cool: ;) :p

[Little Al]

Originally posted by tarvymoto
Don't worry...the nerves usually disapear shortly after the tone. Good luck to both of you....TEAR IT UP!!!:cool: ;) :p


True, but I noticed they can come back as they read off who has what postion and you hear your name in first.......Then you start telling yourself "Don't screw up.......Don't scew up"..............:D

[madmudder]

I'm interested in getting a xxx-t, But does anyone know where I can get one. I'm not looking for the MF model. Thanks

[dkj-M3]

I don't think they make them any more. you'll have to get the spec truck with the blue wheels, I would just save for the MF edt. it will be cheaper after upgrades of the spec truck.

[Casper]

They make a RTR XXX-T now that runs around $250. It comes preassembled and with a radio speedo and motor. A very good deal if you are looking to get started with a truck.

[dkj-M3]

yeah, i forgot about the new rtr's they're kick'in out. that is a good deal & a good speedo.

[CB435]

Where can I purchase the XXX-T.......I searched all the online hobby places that I know of and none sell...LHS sells for $300 checked today...BTW Im wanting the XXX-T RTR

[losixxx213]

horizonhobby.com sell the xxxt rtr for around 260

[tarvymoto]

TM version

[timberwolf211]

Hey all,
I just got a XXXT and I really like it but I need a favor. I was wonder if any could help with finding a manual for the XXXT RTR. If any has one or can e-mail it to me I would be very thankfull.
And my e-mail is timberwolf211@comcast.net

[Casper]

CB435 -- www.stormerhobbies.com should have them and you can also mail order through www.ultimatehobbies.com . Ultimate is selling the RTR kit for $234.95 if I remember right.

timberwolf211 -- There is an exploded view on losi's web site. They are getting there manuals online also. I would expect the XXX-T RTR manual to be up soon. You can contact them directly and they should be able to get you one.

[timberwolf211]

I just got off the phone with Losi and they send they would send me a manual. To me that is killer customer service. I think I have a new liking to Losi.

[cabbynate]

Long time no talk!!!
Hey, we are comming down to So Cal on the 16th and I was wanting to know what tires are working for stock truck and 4WD?
Thanks,
Nate

[Casper]

what's up nate! On truck I have been using silver or red 8 rows in the front and pink t-2000's in the rear. Holeshots will also work if you do not have t's but they are slower. Bomb one grey foam in the tires.

For 4wd they are running pink blockheads (full or 3/4 rear bomb one foam installed) and pink x-2000's bomb one grey foam. There has been a pretty good turnout for 4wd as of late so there is a good chance you can race it! All those new XXX-4's from christmas are still at the track! :)

[cabbynate]

Casper,
Cool bro, Thanks. Do you think you'll be there?

[Casper]

I am not sure. That is two days before my bday so I may be able to sway a Sunday race day. I am not sure what my schedule is like for then. I normally race on fri nights when I get to go. We will see. I would like to make it to the track on that day as a bday party to myself! :D :cool:

[cabbynate]

Cool, Well hope to see ya there.
If not "HAPPY BIRTHDAY" MAN!!!!!
http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/birthday.gif
Take care,
Nate

[Casper]

Thanks! I am another year older but I am still getting faster so that is all that counts right!:p

[cabbynate]

You got that right!!!!
I'm a few years away from the 40+ class and they better watch out when I get there!!!! http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/rough/comeandgetsome.gif

[microxlr8er1]

Does nebody know a good set up for the xxx-t rtr for a very small onroad carpet track that has jumps. thanks oh and also what would be a good motor and spur/pinion combination.

[Casper]

I have never run on carpet before. I would try one of the setups for high bite blue groove (hot rod hobbies or SRS-cactus classic) on losi's web site. http://www.teamlosi.com Other then that I like the Peak/Orion Hellfire/Core stock motors. Gear it 17/86 for a tight track.

[Scrad]

You just need to stiffen the truck up a bit. I ran 35 weight oil with silver springs up front and yellow or pink in the rear. I would either get green or blue tires. Greens seemed to chunk easier than blues, but both tires work good.

[losifreak2004]

Nate - Panther Stingers work excellent at SoCal when the track is dry.

Will you be at Silver State? Or how about any of the series races?

Aaron Waldron

[Aluma]

what bodies fit the matt Francis truck?

[Casper]

The only bodies I know that fit the XXX-T are the two that losi makes (standart XXX-T body and the Fury (MF kit body)) and Proline makes a GMC Sierra body for the XXX-T. These are the only ones that I know of that are actually for the XXX-T. By modifying the body mounts you might be able to fit others.

[Shady]

thereis also a Dodge by McAllistor that is made for the xxxt

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i just wanna say whats up to everybody on the XXXT forum..

I just got a XXXT MFE, changed over from Associated T3.. and i am so glad i did.. I would race at my LHS with the T3, and be in 3rd place.. and be 2-3 laps down fromt he 2nd and 1st place guys, and racing with 4th and all the others..

Well, now i got a XXXT MFE, and i am only 0-1 laps behind the really good guys, an i am in 3rd, either racing with the leaders, or only 1 lap down and i am 1-2 laps ahead of 4th.. on my own lap.. crazy huh..

The top 2 guys all the time, run Losi also.. and they win everyweekend they are out..

All i gotta say, is just by swithing over to Losi, i have greatly improved my driving.. the truck responds better to me, rather than me having to respond to the T3..

Love it..
Daniel

[losifreak2004]

Glad to hear you like the truck!

Aaron Waldron

[Aluma]

anyone try the revenge of monster stock motor in the XXX-T yet? what gearing you using? I put one in, and am gonna start with a 18tooth pinion on the 86 spur. I haven't had a chance to run it cuz i broke a rear arm holder the last time I raced. :(

[dgrobe2112]

ALUMA- i have used the Revenge of the Monster Pro in my XXXT and i had it with a 86/18, you will need to lower by 1 or 2 teeth, cuz i smoked my motor.. So i would at least use a 17 or 16.. but then that also depends on your track layout, if your track is set up for high speed, maybe 18 is good, but our track is set up for more torque than anything.. so i had to gear lower..

[Casper]

I would not advise going above a 17 ever with this motor. These motors are all RPM. Some guys are running them in trucks but I would say this should only be a TC or buggy motor. Not enough torque or power for truck racing but that is just my opinion.

[dgrobe2112]

I agree casper.. I use it for the higher RPM, and i thought it would be the same as the Reedy MVP (which is a high rpm motor also) that you would have to gear down a tooth.. i took it out with a 86/18, and burned it up in the first race.. im talking so hot it put a blister on my finger from when i touched it.. ( i usually test the temp of my motor by touching after every race..)

So needless to say, i need another armature.. this motor is crazy fast in buggy, and touring car..

but if you got a regular gear that you normally run in your truck, and you wanna run this motor, definitly run about 2 teeth lower on your pinion, you will still be as fast as the P2K pro's..

[Casper]

I never liked running MVP's in trucks. They always got too hot. There was no way in He!! that I was going to put a GM3 in a truck. The one that I got was way fast in my buggy but I was not going to take the chance in a truck. I run all Core/Hellfire in my cars now but I really liked the P2K2 also. The P2K is a greak truck motor but they are getting hard to find good numbers on them and I like motors that work in both truck and buggy the most and the Core/Hellfire and the P2K2 were get motors for both applications.

[dgrobe2112]

Casper, what gear do you run with your Core stock motor?? I have on eof those, and i was told to run a 19?? i never did run it.. but just wondering.. I have a 86/?? what do you reccommend??

Thansk

[Casper]

I normally start at 17! I do run them at 18 depending on the motor and the track layout but start at 17. That way you know you will not over heat the motor. These motors do not really smoke like the trinity motors but like any stock motor if you severly over heat them you can damage the magnets. I have yet to blow up a core or loose a magnet it one which is why I switched over to Orion. I got sick of loosing magnets in trinity cans and I could not get power out of MVP's in trucks. I have been extremely happy with the Orion motors. They produce good power and I have yet to have one go bad on me!

[Aluma]

well, with my tuned P2K I was running a 20 tooth pinion on 86 spur. and my buddy (same MF kind of truck) was running 21/86 on a GM3 that was tuned. I had just a little more punch down low and he had a bit more top speed on the straight... so we were neck and neck throughout the race. both motors were fine afterwards (not too hot) so I figured i'd try 18 pinion with the monster. but I think I'll go to the 16 and go up from there.
Thanks y'all!

[dgrobe2112]

Well, like i said.. it depends on the track layout.. my layout, is a tight track, i really didnt need top end, but was geared for top end on my Monster.. so if your track is a top end track, then you should be fine, since you will be going fast, and getting air running through the motor.. My track don thave a whole lot of high speed parts.. so.. maybe you ought try a 17, and go up or down.. if needed..

[timberwolf211]

What would you guys reccomend gearing wise for a Reedy 15t Ti? And the track I would be running is more of a speed track.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

While we are on the subject what ratio do you guys recommend for running a Team Orion - Chrome 13 double motor. Currently I have tried a 17 tooth pinion with the stock 86 tooth spur. This is the book recommendation but I have to drop a tooth because the motor gets real hot.

I would like to get a Trinity - Matt Francis Worlds edition P2K motor (the 11 double), what pinion would you first try with this motor.

Thanks in advance,

Aussie.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i was told to gear a truck about 4-5 over the turn of the motor.. So if you got a 10 turn motor, run i 15 pinion on it.. I dont know how that can be.. but thats what they say.. I dont run mod, and i tried a 10 turn on my truck and geared it the way they said, and i was dead at about 3 minutes.. I dont know how to gear a mod, and would be interested to know how to do it.. they say for a buggy add about 8-10 teeth over the turn of the motor.. blows my mind.. how you can have a 13 turn mod and run a 87/23, but you gotta run the same gear on a stock motor..

Like in a truck.. 13 turn run a 86/18.. but i have to run a 86/17 on my Monster HP pro stock motor.. see the difference.. hardly none.. but the turn difference in the motor is 10 turn differece..

[Casper]

To all-- check out my web site. I have a good gearing chart on the site under the info sheets. There is web based and an excel version that you can print out and put it into track box for future ref.

http://home.att.net/~casper04

[dgrobe2112]

Alot of good info Casper.. thanks..

[Casper]

No problem. I need to find some time to add a lot of other info to the site. Unfortunatley I will need to move the web site soon also since I will be changing ISP's but I will be finding a more permanate home for the web site soon.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, make sure you let us know.. cuz i added it to my favorites..

[Casper]

I will make an announcment when it moves! :)

[racer13]

Hey guys, i'm going to be selling all my rc stuff to buy a sand rail. I was wondering how much i could get for my set up. I'll be selling it on ebay most likely. Here is what comes with it.

Losi xxxt mfe
new 8 ribs glued on new red mfe rims
new t-bones glued on new red mfe rims
used pair of 8 ribs on red mfe rims
jr xr2 w/ receiver & crystals.
Hitec 525mg servo
NEW reedy 11x2 (ran 1 pack inside house.)
Red alum. shock bushings and Red alum. shock collars (brand new).
Novak c2
1 pair of road rage tires on red mfe rims
Trinity realtime 2 discharger
extra front/rear bumpers
rpm gear cover
4 matched 2400 packs, 1 pack needs deans plugs
1 matched 2000 pack
extra shock body, pistons, collars, bushings
extra spur (red)
15,15,20 pinions (17 on it)
Speed gems 2 Opal (used but good)
some extra servo stuff.
red/black turnbuckle ends
AE 35 wt. oil
old worn out pair of t-2000's (almost like slicks) on red mfe rims


Has pretty much every thing to make RTR except charger (brother sold with his micro)

i am NOT TAKING TRADES!! i am just asking what people think i could get for it on ebay (what reserve should i set?)

[Casper]

Take a couple good pictures of all you stuff and list EVERYTHING indetail of what you are selling. I would not put a reserve on it and starting at about $100 it should go for over $300.

[racer13]

yea but what if it goes to only 150? i would get ripped off.

[glacierdust38]

I wasn't considering an electric buggy because I thought it was useless because the ground was so rought it beefed the power out of the battery pack... Like the off-road was just to hard for it? How fast does the XXX-T go and how long does a full charge run?

[racer13]

My xxxt mfe lasts about 7-8 minutes or so on a full charge, handles bumps, etc quite well.. I've only broken 1 a-arm on mine for the year or so i've had it. VERY tough truck.

[Casper]

If you have a decent ad it will go for more then $150. You kind of have to trust the system. All the cars I have sold on ebay went for more then I wanted for them. Auctions with reserves tend not to get the highest bids because bidders do not like reserves. If you really want me to explain it to you I will but trust me on this one.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Casper is right. Ebayers do not like to have to bid for a certain price to meet a reserve. What you want to create is the bidding battle. That usually creates alot of bids(competition in other words), which in turn pushes people to bid more than they wanted to "win" the auction. The auction turns into a war/game to some people driving up the auction price tremendously. I sold a few things to discover that you got to take a risk to make the money. Ide put a reserve on a product that doesnt have a large market, but that xxx-t will sell well, very well. With a product that is that well known, people will know what it is worth, getting you a fair price for it.

JR

[bashbrook]

I just bought a XXT Matt Francis kit and all the required stuff ($800 Total!). I bought an Airtronics MX3 and how or what do I use the 3 channels for?

[Shady]

for waht your going to be using it for, one channel is for the steering servo, another for the ESC, the third is pretty much not used unless you have a personal transponder

[bashbrook]

OK, thats make sense by the way I connected the steering servo and esc. What is the advantage over AM and FM? Also, is there a better explanation of the controls on the MX3 besides the manual?

[dgrobe2112]

When you run alot of graphite parts on your truck, or carbon fiber parts.. FM will not glitch as much as a AM radio will, you also get a quicker response from radio to receiver..

[RevSublime]

Hey gang! Just picked up an MFE the other day...

All in all...gotta say I'm very happy. Even though my front kickplate was chipped in front (under logo) and i cracked my steering brace because i didn't notice that the tap screw had a shoulder on it...ugh. Nothing that super glue couldn't fix...at least temporarily.

the front and rear chassis plates also weren't the best fit...had to bust out the file.

But wow...this thing smokes the T2 i just rebuilt!

And it didnt take too long to learn that "yes...titanium will break!" ...got into a little cartwheel and landed on right rear wheel...SNAPPO! No prob...just snagged a steel one outta my T2.

Im running:

P2K2 Pro
GM V6r speedo
1500 dynamite sport packs...(yeah...soon to be replaced)

Would love to get into racing. I gues there are a few tracks in Western Washington that I can hit...

Now where did those washington racers go?

[socaliracer]

Hey everyone i have a xxx-t thats FULLY up-graded theres not one stock part on this truck i built the car for stock racing it comes with a cyclone sc ,11 packs of 3000 matched packs form trinity,reedy and integy,2 dude man stock motors,4 sets of tires mostley hole shots and too much to more to list please email for pics cause im too lazy to all the stuff that it comes with ill send you pics of anything you wanna see but i wont break anything up i wanna sell it as a package type deal anyways im asking 550.00 for everything but ill go down on the price if sounds right by the way im looking for a XXX bke so lemme know Email me at Funkthesystm@aol.com DOug

[dgrobe2112]

ygm socali...

[Toiffel]

tHIS MIGHT BE STUPID QUESTION, BUT ANYWAY... I HAVE LUNSFORD TITANIUM TURNBUCKLES, AND THE RPM SHORT BALL LINKS, I WENT FOR A SHORTER FRONT CAMBER LINK, FROM 2 B TO 3 B, OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT, BUT THE MANUAL SAYS I SHOULD HAVE A 1/2 DEGREE NEGATIVE CAMBER, AND WITH THIS CHANGE, I HAVE MORE LIKE A POSITVIE CAMBER, AND A CAN'T ADJUST ANYMORE TO GET THE RIGHT CAMBER BECAUSE THE LUNSFORD TURNBUCKLES ARE A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE STOCK MATT FRANCIS ONES THAT I HAVE, WILL THIS AFFECT MY TRUCKS HANDELING IN A NEGATIVE WAY?? OR THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS NORMALLY WHEN YOU GO FOR SHORTER CAMBER LINKS?? OR IS IT BECAUSE OF THE SLIGHTLY LONGER TURNBUCKLES?? OR EVEN BETTER SHOULD I NOT WORRY ABOUT IT?? THANKS........

[dgrobe2112]

You definilty do not want to have positive camber.. I have the Lunsford titanium, and used my stock Matt francis ball ends, and had no problem at all getting them to stock specs.. if you cant get them any closer and are running positive camber, somthing is wrong.. As of right now i am running a -1.5 camber all around.. but that setup was given to me by the local best driver.. So.. if you cant get your wheels any closer than positive camber, you may check and see if you got the correct lunsford parts..

Also, this is just my opinion, when i ran my T3, i had the long ball ends, they seemed more sturdy than the shorter ones that others were running.. they all had problems with them popping off, and stuff like that.. i never had that problem..

[Aluma]

has anyone tried out the NEW standard MF setup with the swaybar? I've got most of it done, but I can't find the swaybar part number... or do you have to make one up?

[dgrobe2112]

What swaybars are you talking about?? i am not sure.. if you find out, let me know..

Thansk

[Casper]

Unless yo put the wrong ti rods on in the wrong spots you should be able to adjust your camber to negative position. Remember negative means that the top of the wheels point toward each other. I run the RPM long ball cups and have never had a problem getting negative camber.



This is the swaybar kit you want for the rear of the car. This one for the XX series of cars workes on the XXX series also.
A-4140 Rear Sway Bar Kit (all XX & XXT) $9.95

The 20wt oil they have in the MF kit is way to soft for most conditions. This is my only beef with this kit. The stock setup does not work at most tracks.

[Toiffel]

I checked the part number for the turnbuckles and its 2067, but it comes with 2 x 2 1/4", 2 x 2 1/5", and 2 x 7/8", but the parts list from losi, says that the stock ones for the mfe are 4 x 2 1/2, and 2 X 1/5, does this make any sense ??

[losifreak2004]

Toiffel and dgrobe - While I'm not sure what is causing the problem...I can assure you that positive camber in the REAR of your truck is not always a bad thing. In fact..many times, +1/2 degrees of camber is the way to go.

Aaron Waldron

[RevSublime]

Just how much noise should my MFE make?

It runs great but is much noisier than my fathers XXX4 and my buddies RC10T2.

diff appears to be adjusted correctly and slipper squeals for about the first foot when punched full throttle.

Im fairly certain i followed instructions to a T...

any advice?

thanks!

[clw]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
In fact..many times, +1/2 degrees of camber is the way to go.

Aaron Waldron

AARON:
Under what conditions would one use positive camber? Too much rear side traction? I'd never considered using positve rear camber so thought I'd ask.

Thanks

[clw]

A sway bar links together and removes the independence of the two rear wheels, right? So, wouldn't that be a bad thing on your typical bumpy offroad track? A bump hit by only one rear wheel would affect both rear wheels. Seems like it would be a benefit on a dead smooth track but not offroad. Can someone explain this?

[Toiffel]

Thanks guys, but I figured it out, I had the front camber links where the front tie rods should be, a quick swap, and everything is great!!!

[dgrobe2112]

I cant see why you would ever use positive camber.. i run a -1 to -1.5 camber all around.. i cant see why you want positive at all.. you lose traction, and also, you lose alot in the turns.. cuz your riding on the outside of the tires.. and dragging the inside.. where when you turn your outside tire should push out, and level a little, and drag the inside of the inside tire...

[Casper]

I have seen guys (Brian Kinwald!) fun positive camber. I am not sure what conditions they were trying this with but like dgrobe2112 said it drags the inside tire. This is what they were trying to do. Under some very high bite conditions getting traction from the inside tire can help to keep the car from traction rolling. Just some food for thought.

clw-- You are right about the sway bar working better on smoother tracks but the small sway bars most guys run in offroad does not make the rear end totaly dependent. It keeps the car from rolling although like you said it does not like bumps as much.

[losifreak2004]

I can't really explain WHY positive camber works so well, but most Losi drivers run 1/2 to 1 degree of positive camber on ALL their XXX vehicles on nearly ALL track conditions. Blue-groove, fluffy, anything in between.

Like dgrobe said, it doesn't sound like it would work on paper, but I suggest you try it. To me, the car feels a little more "locked in", without pushing or being excessively loose. The rear end breaks loose much more predictably, the car reacts to bumps and jumps better...everything feels so much better.

Aaron Waldron

[cabbynate]

Hey Aaron!!!
How's it going?
Are you going to run the Cactus this year? If so what tires are you going to use for your XXX-T????
Thanks,
Nate

[tarvymoto]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by losifreak2004
[B]I can't really explain WHY positive camber works so well, but most Losi drivers run 1/2 to 1 degree of positive camber on ALL their XXX vehicles on nearly ALL track conditions. Blue-groove, fluffy, anything in between.

Hogimoto has a good artical in the March issue of RC car. He states that negative camber can make the truck too "grabby" on high bite smooth tracks and to smooth out the response of the truck he generally runs the car with zero camber. He goes on to state that running zero to positive camber .."you will gain stability and smoothness"

I gather that on a very high bite non bumpy tracks...you can smooth out the streering response by running zero-to-positive camber to make the car less agressive.;)

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Essentially...yes. I just can't explain WHY.

We run positive camber at Hemet also, which is anything but smooth!

Nate - I will be at Cactus! From what I've been told by my Panther-pilot in AZ, Soft Wookies in the rear, and Med-Soft Stingers up front are the way to go!

Aaron Waldron

[NoPepsiForYou]

hey hope you don't mind a pretty stupid question, but do you think the MFE is really worth the extra money, I was thinking about just getting the spec and putting on some graphite here and there.

-Dave

[losifreak2004]

There's no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers!

The only real weak link of the Dirt Spec kit, is the turnbuckles. The cost of the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles alone more than justifies the extra $$$ for the MFE kit!

Aaron Waldron

[NoPepsiForYou]

ohh yea forgot to add...what the heck is a bushing?

[RevSublime]

just how noisy should my MFE be?

should gears chatter loudly at slow speeds?

[losifreak2004]

A bushing is like a bearing...but all one piece. It's used to reduce spinning friction, often made from plastic or bronze.

RevSublime - There shouldn't be any gear chatter. Most "noise" people hear, is from incorrectly set gear mesh. The age old trick, is to sandwich a piece of paper between the pinion and spur gears, tighten the motor screws down, and slide the piece of paper out.

Aaron Waldron

[RevSublime]

thanks Aaron. I did the paper trick... but noticed that even though the gap getween the bottom of the spur and the crest of the pinion is small...there appears to be a lot of play between the meaty part of the teeth. pinion pitch not 48 perhaps?

bk

[losifreak2004]

I doubt that your pinion isn't the right pitch if the teeth are engaging (assuming because you've driven the truck before).

If your truck is still making noise after trying the paper trick, disassemble the tranny, put a dab of hydra drive fluid or diff lube on the idler gear, spin the topshaft to lubricate all the gears, and try again.

Aaron Waldron

[clw]

So try positive camber on both ends or just the rear?

[dkj-M3]

I've run 0 & .5* neg camber on the rear of my truck & noticed that the tires don't wear in the middle of the tread, so I set it to .5* positive camber & it's right on the mark. It does make my truck feel a lot more predictable. & I run on a high bite clay like track.

my $.02

[cabbynate]

Thanks Aaron!!!
See ya there and good luck!!!http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif
Nate
By the way Aaron, He is running a XXX-T right?

[Casper]

FYI-- Chris Higa used Med soft Wookie fronts and soft switches with good luck at the Reedy truck race at HRH last year. Those might be a good combo at SRS for the cactus.

[cabbynate]

Thanks for the input Casper.
I will try that combo as well for sure. I have a tire budget of about $150.00 for that race so I will do a few experaments.
(That's just for the XXX-T. I have all the tires for the XXX-4 already)

[Casper]

Silver tapers up front and red tapers in the rear will also work really well if you do not want to use Panther tires.

[Part-time]

Could someone tell me the size for the ball studs on the mfe xxxt. I broke 2 and need to order some and don't want to buy the stock ones. Any suggestion??

Thanks,
Rob <><

[Casper]

Which ones did you break? There are different sizes for different locations. Losi makes Titanium ball studs if you want something a bit stronger then the stock ones.

[cabbynate]

Casper,
I'm a 50% driver for Panther so I use them when I can.:)
Plus I think they have great tires.

[Casper]

Thats cool. Panther makes some good tires. I have had so-so luck with them. I keep going back to losi tires though. I need to figure out the right foam for them and do some more testing.

[cabbynate]

With my gas truck (XXX-NT) in Hemet and at Pro-Lines track the Panther steps can't be beat. From what I understand on true b-grv tracks the switchs and wookies seem to be the hot set-up.
All with Trinity gray foams.

[racer13]

Hey Guys! im selling my xxxt mfe rtr on the forums and just wanted to post here in the xxxt forum to see if any one wants this awesome truck. (comes rtr w/o charger)

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=115398

[losifreak2004]

Wookies tend to be a little more predictable on slicker tracks than the Switches, which work best on abrasive tracks (like Hot Rod). Many times, Trinity Gray Bomb One works the best, but we should have some new foam for testing anytime now...we'll see ;)

Nate - He only recently has started racing a T3, said that the tire combination works on both trucks VERY well!

clw - Only on the rear...running positive camber on the front will result in a twitchy and wandery truck.

part time - I use the Losi Ti ballstuds...very hard to break!

Aaron Waldron

[AussieSam]

Hi,

RevSublime:- you arn't using Tamiya pinions are you... the pitch is different and they squeal real loud when mixed with Losi and Associated spur geards,

Regards,

Sam.

[RevSublime]

AussieSam...nah. but the pinion was in less than nice condition. filed some burrs down on it.

biggest problem was in the diff...took it apart and nothing was very apparent until i wiped my finger across one of the washers...

felt kind gritty...cleaned it...relubed and put it back together and now all i hear is my slipper...

better tighten it a wee bit...heh

thanks for your input guys!

[Part-time]

Casper they are the right side rear stock # A-6000
Do you know where I can get somr titanium ones?

Thanks

Rob <><

[Casper]

You can use the A-9946 Titanium Ball Stud with Hex Head .250" $9.00 or the A-9947 Titanium Ball Stud with Hex Head .380" $9.00 for any of the locations in the rear. I prefer the .380 for the outside of the rear unless you are using the trinity rear hubs. If you are using the trinity aluminum rear hubs use the .250 in those. If you use the longer ball stud in the rear hub if you do end up breaking one you can back it out. I normally run only titanium in the inside locations on my cars. If one is going to break I want it to be the outside ball since those are easy to get out if/when they break. In the rear I run the alum rear hubs though so I run all titanium in the rear since you cannot back out those easily. I hope this helps. If you are looking for a place online you can go to www.stormerhobbies.com or www.ultimatehobbies.com . You will have to call Ultimate but they normally have them in stock and will ship anywhere.

[Part-time]

Casper THANKS

Rob <><

[racer13]

Hey guys, i got my truck on ebay. For all you that want to see it here.. #3116009234 Just go to ebay and search for it.

I was also wondering, casper.. you get any new vid's of you racing? =D havn't seen some in a while.

[Casper]

Nope. I am working on finding a new home for the web site. I am switching ISP's right now so I need to get a new more permanate home for the old web site! :)

[NoPepsiForYou]

Stupid FedEx! I would have had my Truck today if it wasn't Presidents Day. I thought that was just some federal thing:confused:

[mx416]

I race indoor carpet oval with a XXT not XXXT. I'm thinking about getting a XXXT but I'm still smokin all the XXXTs. For though 40wt shock oil works good. Put the bottoms of the shocks on the outside holes on the arms. For springs you want to go with a pink or red in the rear and red in the front. Make sure to give yourself lots of time to mess with the preload because that makes a huge difference in handling on carpet (it will affect whether you get through the corners without spinning out) I usually put traction comound on all four foam tires every other run. Some people don't use traction compound which will affect your setup. If you don't use it you front tires will usually chatter through the turns.

[wolfboy117]

I am thinking about racing my xxx-t spec and I would like to know what are so needed upgrades. I already have some lunsford Ti's. Like threaded shock bodies, or CVD's. I would realy like to know what the best all around tire setup is. Thanks!

[losifreak2004]

I would guess that your camber links are going to make the most difference. Try 30 wt. with 56's and red springs in the back, 35 with 56's and silver springs up front. Front camber link - middle hole on the bulkhead, 2 washers, middle hole on the spindle, spindles down, 0 deg. camber front and rear, 0 deg. toe-in. Rear camber link - Middle hole on the tower, outside hole on the hub. 2 deg. anti-squat, 0 deg. hubs mounted forward.

I have no clue if that will work...but it should be close.

Aaron

[dgrobe2112]

Wolfboy.. your truck.. has bearings right?? if so, good, you may consider running CVD's, they are a good upgrade.. but i took my CVD's off to get universal aluminum dogbones.. more torque out of the turn.. also.. you may want to try plastic outdrives with titanium sleeves.. that makes your diff super light.. also, an aluminum top shaft, much lighter than the stock.. threaded shocks are not neccessary.. nice to have though.. also, you may want to run some lighten slipper plates.. these will make your truck pick up faster.. if i remember correctly, the Spec truck is a little heavier than the MFE..

other things you may consider.. is buying spare arms.. and shock towers.. so if you buy those.. buy the graphite ones..

Also.. you can go to Ebay and do a search on XXX-T and there is a guy on there who is selling parts out of the Francis truck.. he has the Francis steering assembly, and also the bearings.. that will make your steering very fast, and responsive.. I used to drive a Sport Kit T3, and it had the plastic bushings in the steering, and i have a 925mg steering servo with .08 speed.. it didnt seem really fast in my T3, but when i got the Francis truck.. and put that servo in.. it was way faster than steering in my T3..

Just my opinion... these are the upgrades i would do..

[mardigan]

So I have a quick question about my tranny. What is a normal amount of wear in the differential outdrive? Specificly where the bones/cvd's go in. Mine is wearing a lot on the left side and none on the right side. Is something out of adjustment possibly? It drives great and sounds fine, it's just wearing uneven. Thanks...

[Aluma]

hey guys, I'm looking to buy a mod motor for my MF.... what do you all recommend? I've heard good things about the D5 and the Cores. how should I gear it, 86/16?

[dgrobe2112]

I have never ran a mod motor.. however.. i have asked because i bought a mod and wanted to run it.. It depends on the turn of the motor.. you are supposed to gear 5-6 teeth over the turn of the motor in a truck and 8-10 in a buggy.. so if you got a 10 turn motor, you should probably put a 15 pinion in your truck..

[Casper]

Losi had some bad steel outdrives recently. They have been wearing out prematurly. My guess would be that you got one of these mardigan. I would replace the outdrives with new ones unless there is no performance loss. Good outdrives will keep the suspension from binding though.

I have a modified gear chart on my web site. http://home.att.net/~casper04 The D5 and the Core are both great motors. You will not go wrong with either one of them.

[Sean Doherty]

pic of my xxxt mf

[Sean Doherty]

one more

[Wildhare787]

Hey guys, theres a new xxxt forum, check it out (http://www.chatarea.com/extremexrcteamlosixxxt)

[losifreak2004]

For those of you looking to add hop-up parts to your truck, there are a couple things you should know about the parts you are putting on your truck...namely the drivetrain (I'm pretty sure Casper will argue these...haha)

CVD's will add forward traction, but will also make your car unstable through rougher sections of the track (especially when accelerating or decelerating). Dogbones (stock Losi universals) will have more sidebite, go through bumps better...but at the cost of some forward bite. Losi "sliders" will go through bumps the best, and free the car up the most through turns, but may make your car feel "unconnected" to the inputs you make at the transmitter end of things.

Plastic outdrives will lower the rotating mass of your drive train, at the expensive of forward traction. The aluminum top shaft will lighten your drivetrain, and the gear is made to much smaller tolerances.

Aaron Waldron

[wolfboy117]

Interesting. So........... What should I get?

[Casper]

I do not argue with you Aaron! :p The only comment I have is that the slidders are VERY cheap (cost wise) and they last forever in your car. You do not need to worry about the outdrives or the dog bone wearing out. If you drive stock a lot they also lighten up the rotating mass a bunch.

[clw]

Aaron, Casper and XXXT friends:

Can any of you very experienced racers explain what changing the anti-squat settings does? How do you know when it's too little or too much. It is an old (not a MF) XXXT and was built with 4° anti-squat. I see setups now spec'g out 2° and 0°, never 4°, what's gained and lost by changing this setting?

Typical track conditions in Florida is a sandy red clay surface that is soft when wet but gets sandy and slick as it dries out. Thanks

[Aluma]

If you havent tried it, i recommend you do! The new standard setup is very good...lots of offpower steering and great for sweepers too. also tryout the monster motor with 15t pinion...very fast!

[Casper]

I am sure Aaron will have more info on this subject but basically Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite and less fwd. I am pretty sure I am running 0 deg on my XXX-T right now. On the short track I normally run on I need the extra side bite. I have noticed that when the rear end just does not feel right at all a change the antisquat can make a world of difference. Adjust it and see what happens at your track. Worst thing is you change it back.

[clw]

Example problem: Same tires as the fast guys, camber 0° both ends--

To adjust the front to rear on power balance of the chassis what should be adjusted? Order of changes? When you say "side bite" does this mean on the throttle rear tire traction?

[clw]

ignore this one

[Casper]

Side bite is rear cornering traction. It keeps the rear end from spinning out. What exactly do you mean by balance. It all depends on what is happening with the car. Do you have too much initial steer or not enough rear traction. Are you traction rolling? Do you not have enough high speed steering? A balanced car just means you have enough steering and rear traction. You need to identify the short coming before you can figure out ways to fix it.

[clw]

The problem is front or rear, which end lets go first when accelerating hard out of a turn. I called that balance, I'd like the truck to be neutral or just a hint of push. Now at 4° it will come around (rear end spin around) on an aggressive exit. So, is the AS the thing to change? Or should other changes be made before changing the AS? Turn in is fine, plenty of steering!

Do you have too much initial steer or not enough rear traction? Too little rear traction but only under power

Are you traction rolling? No

Do you not have enough high speed steering? Could use a bit more but it's close

Thanks

[Casper]

Yeah it sounds like anti squat will help with this. What hole are you using on the rear hub for you camber link? The inside (b) hole tends to help with the issue you are having. If you have the Trinity rear hubs you can raise the ball stud one washer also.

[clw]

Originally posted by Casper
1. What hole are you using on the rear hub for you camber link? The inside (b) hole tends to help with the issue you are having.
2. If you have the Trinity rear hubs you can raise the ball stud one washer also.

1. 2/A -- On the Losi setup sheets they show the inside rear hub position as the "A" position, so I think what you mean and the setting I have are the same thing.

2. When you change to the trinity rear hubs do you add a washer to the front ball stud? That would indicate that they (trinity hubs) make the front more aggressive and grabby, right?

Thanks

[jpel200]

Just wondering if there is a good site where some of the jargon in this sport is explained. LOL. Looking at the last couple of posts kind of reminded me that I still don't understand all of it... and sometimes it is quite overwhelming to us new guys.... Dont mean to sound ungrateful though..... I have learned a whole lot coming to this site. and I have read everypost on this forum! and took notes. LOL. Thanks for all the help you guys provide.....it is great.
And thanks for any addys that can give some definitions to all these new words! LOL.......

Race hard!!!

John Pelfrey:confused:

[Casper]

Sorry you are right the A hole is inside. The trinity rear hubs have verticle ball studs. This allows you to change the roll center of the car. It is like adjusting the height of the front inside ball studs for steering.

[Casper]

jpel200 -- Start by reading this article on Team Orion's web site. They used to have a list of R/C terms on there site but I cannot find it anymore. If you still have questions or need something explained more let us know and we will do our best to clear up confusion or define a new term. :)

http://www.team-orion.ch/faq/car-handling.asp

[bashbrook]

I am in the market for a new ESC and I am looking for a reommendation. It will be used for racing off road with a stock motor and no reverse required.

[Casper]

Depends on what you are planning on spending. The best speedo IMO is the Keyence V Zero Extreme. You can get one for $159 at www.ultimatehobbies.com . It is fully programmable withOUT an external device so it is self contained. Has the lowest on resistance of any speedo on the market today. Is compact and has an lcd on it that allows it to say hello when you turn it on. That is admitadly a "Cool" but useless feature but neat non the less. The Keyence speedos have had the most punch of any speedo I have ever tried but are still nice and linear on the top end.

[clw]

Who services the Keyence?

You've tried the LRP and Novak's and prefer the Keyence? We never see them over here.

[Casper]

Ultimate hobbies is a distributer for Keyence and they will warrenty them. They are located in Orange Ca which is really close to Irvine for Novak and Costa Mesa for LRP (AE) so that really should not be a determinaing factor. As far as comparing them to Novak. They are more reliable the the smoking GT7 and have more punch then the cyclone as well as being more progarmable. The LRP quantum speedo series is based off schematics (sp?) LRP bought off Keyence so in essence they are copies of the Keyence. I would rather buy the original since the top of the line LRP does not have the programability of the Zero series. I have not tried the quantum line of LRP speedos but the Zero has a lot better punch then the flat LRP V7.1 that I tried. Novak tried to copy Keyence with there GT7. The result is you still need a trash can capacitor and a Schottky Diode. The Zero series of speedos have a AGCS system which elimates the need for the Schottky Diode which makes changing motors easier! There are quite a few guys running them in Southern Cally now. The reason you do not hear about them more is that Keyence does not sponser drivers. They are a high end instrumentation company that play's in R/C electronics. They are not an R/C company so they do not care about winning races but they make the best stuff out there. Check out http://www.keyence.co.jp/hobby/english/speed.html for more info from there web site.

[bashbrook]

I am not sure I want to spend that much, this is my first truck and I have only been to the track twice.

Another Question: Do people normally race stock and modified with the same truck? It seems it would be a pain to alter a truck from stock to modified.

[bashbrook]

I did a search and found nothing in regards to a dealer for their products. Also, Ultimate Hobbies does not list them on their website. Do you recommend a product that I can buy at my local store?

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Although the Keyence speedies may be good if not excellant, I would be more inclined to stick with more common brands such as Novak, LRP or Nosram.

Regards,

Aussie.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Although the Keyence speedies may be good if not excellant, I would be more inclined to stick with more common brands such as Novak, LRP or Nosram.

Regards,

Aussie.

[jpel200]

Thanks Casper... I am sure that will help alot of new guys better understand things. LOL... I know most of the terms but I still see things that I really don't understand. LOL . It's all a fun learning curve though. Thanks again!

John Pelfrey

[Casper]

AussieSam-- I would not call NOSRAM a common or even an establishes company in the US. If I had to choose something besides a Keyence. I would go with the Novak C2. I would be afraid of the GT7. The GT7 is a great speedo but they are having issues with reliability. I would be worried about blowing up my speedo if I was running a GT7 right now. I know that there are good ones out there but I have also heard the horror stories about these. If you wanted to steup up to the LRP side the v7.1 is a good speedo but lacks punch. The Quantum Competition are the best. If you have a budget let me know and I can recommend speedos in that price range.

[Casper]

jpel200 -- No problem! :)

[Aluma]

hey casper, what you think of the KO propo KS-1200 ESC? is it better than the quantum sport?

[NewToNitro]

:( I traded my XXX back to the guy i bought it from for his XXXT now im kinda missing the XXX, oh well. What are some must have hop ups for the truck? It started as a francis but its missing a few things.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

hey, i am thinking of ordering a xxx-t francis edidion, i want something to build, i dont know if i should get this or wait for the rc10t4, what do you guys like better the xxx-t or the ft t3, because thats what i have and want to sell it, i like it a lot but i just like the look of the losi better, and have never owned a losi. ok so in my shopping cart at stormerhobbies are xxx-t francis edition($250), rpm long shank rod ends black($5), rpm xxx gear covetr black($6), and MIP blue seals($2.50) because i heard that the shocks can leak, so ill just make sure with these. i will be getting the novak brushless ss motor when it comes out, it should be soon i just looked on their site today. also, what servo do you guys use, what should the torque rating be for a 1/10 electric stadium truck?
thanks for your help
ray

[Casper]

Aluma-- I dont have any experience with KO ESC's but if they are anything like there servo's and radios they should be awsome. The KO speedo has a not motor limit were the Quantum sport has a 14 turn limit. Because of this I would pick the KO.

NewToNitro-- The Drake is the NT kit. I am not trying to pick on you but did it start out life as a Francis kit? It has lots of red stuff on it. The only must have is the trinity rear pivot block. Other cool things to get would be the aluminum shock collars but if it was a MF kit you really should not need anything else.

RAYMAN1OO7-- The shocks do not leak all that much. I build mine with green slime on the seals and they seem to hold up just fine. I do blow them on occation but usually when too much dirt packs up from outdoor racing. Everything else looks good on your shopping list. Steering servos depending on what you want to spend you can get the Air 94757, 94758, 94357, 94358 all all GREAT servos for this car. If you would like other suggestions from other brands let me know but that is what most people run in there cars these days.

[Casper]

double post sorry!:o

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by Casper


NewToNitro-- The Drake is the NT kit. I am not trying to pick on you but did it start out life as a Francis kit? It has lots of red stuff on it. The only must have is the trinity rear pivot block. Other cool things to get would be the aluminum shock collars but if it was a MF kit you really should not need anything else.


I i fixed it after i posted:o Some of the CVDs and stuff appear to have rust on them :( I think im going to order lunsford Ti turnbuckles.

[losimaniac87]

http://216.229.90.210/images/xxx-t.jpg

[Aluma]

well I had an interesting weekend! The minute i was leaving to the race my Axiom 11X2 TI motor came in! :D I got to the track, put on the caps and schotty, installed it into the MF and put in a fresh pack just as they called for the first qualifier. I set it down and ran it a round a bit.... WOW! what power...so much so that when i gunned it at the start horn it started going side ways a bit!well, I did one lap and on the second i went around a slower truck just to meet a tire head on! luckily i had an extra carrier...:D
Next race....half way into the first lap my truck just stopped. sounded like a loose pinion...nope...couldn't get it to run. thought it was a loose diff, nope...checked it this morning and found that the mini nut in the diff. had stripped and that the balls had gone through the diff gear and made a ring! The diff was just spinning inside the gear when the motor was activated....geez...what luck eh! I went through so much trouble to get the new standard setup on my truck and found that it has plenty of steering and handles great....:P but I havent' had a chance to actually use it for more than 1 lap. AHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA :D

[Casper]

NewToNitro-- ti tie rods are a must have. If you need new CVD's you can just get the bones. Get the shinny ones as the look cooler and should not rust like the stock ones.

Aluma-- always replace the lock nut when you rebuild the diff. I hate it when the diff goes in mod because you will blow the diff gear if run too loose. I did that in my main for the Reedy truck race. My diff would not stay tight and it went with 30 sec to go on the last lap. I missed 3rd place in the C because of it. Oh well I had fun anyway! :-)

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by Casper
NewToNitro-- ti tie rods are a must have. If you need new CVD's you can just get the bones. Get the shinny ones as the look cooler and should not rust like the stock ones.


Looks like it wasnt rust...i think it was just dust from the track. I dremeled it all off :) I think ill order the shiney dog bones just for looks anyway. Do you have a part number?

[jpel200]

WOW!!!!!!!:eek: A couple of pages back, Casper suggested a site that had some definitions and such for people to look at. Well, if you havn't been there, I suggest you do. That site goes into alot of detail about suspension (that is as far as I have read so far) Whew. A real eye opener! For you mathmatitions, there is alot of good ssshhtuff in there! LOL.
Anyway, just wanted to let you all know. (especially those people new to the hobby like me!:D )


Race Hard!!!!

John Pelfrey

[Casper]

NewToNitro-- They are MIP part number 1164 Shiny CVD Bones for XXT Truck/CR/XXXT (2) $18.95 SRP.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

thanks for the help, can everybody show me pics of your trucks? i ordered the truck, i just deleted the rpm gear cover. oh and about my ft t3, how much can i get for it? its in great shape, never raced, just in my front yard, nothing ever broke, its clean, i just need the shocks and diff rebuilt. it includes FT T3, tekin rebel esc, and a set of rpm chrome clawz and pro-line road rage tires.

[Casper]

http://home.att.net/~casper04/images/Truck_ISO.jpg

Here is a picture of my truck. This is my older body paint scheme but I still liked this one. I would have kept the RPM gear cover on the order. The stock one will break! The RPM one will not EVER! Other then that put your truck on ebay! You can look at that web site also to see what it is worth.

[Casper]

http://home.att.net/~casper04/images/Casper_truck_cactus.jpg

Here is a picture of my truck from the Cactus Classic courtesy of Panther.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

nice truck, i wish the francis truck would have come with black parts instead of red. because i would eventually like to get blue kinwald parts. which ones would you recomend? rear hub carriers, f/r pivot blocks, and heatsink motor plate are the 3 that i think i will end up getting.

[Casper]

Yeah I got all of those on my cars but I run the losi lightend blue motor plate instead of the trinity one. The losi is just as good looking but is about $15 cheaper!

[NewToNitro]

I want to replace all the red parts on my truck...i hate red.

[NewToNitro]

What should i get first?

All the graphite for the front end
MIP CVDs
Ti Turnbuckles

[dgrobe2112]

those are good prices.. but you gotta get alot at once.. to save on shipping, or you are defeating the purpose..

[Casper]

That sounds like a good idea to me. The towers seem to make a big difference so make sure they are graphite. I would work on the suspenstion pieces first. The threaded shock bodies are nice to have but not a must and as long as your steel shock shafts are not really worn you do not need the ti nitride ones.

[NewToNitro]

.

[RevSublime]

Ok...someone help me.

My MFE was shipped with a cracked front kickplate(top)...I emailed Losi aobut it and have yet to hear from them (over a month ago).
I wasnt too worried about it so went ahead and assembled it. Well...after a few good smacks it has cracked ...

OK...so no biggie, just get a replacement part for $16 and Im good to go.
Excepts for one problem. No one carries graphite xxxt parts around here. out of the 8 hobby shops within my reach, not one had the A-9713 set.
Ok...so I figure, go to the source. Horizon Hobby. well...aint that special? They're out of stock.

Now how in the world am I supposed to keep my car running if Losi doesnt make sure their parts are always available.

So now my xxxt must sit. Time to go back to my T2...because EVERYONE carries parts for it...even though it's gotta be 10-15 years old.

Are there any other decent places online that might have a stock of xxxt graphite parts?

[NewToNitro]

Here ya go (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS9713)

[RevSublime]

Sweet...thanks a lot NewToNitro.

Is it just me or is it kinda sad that the company that owns Losi doesnt have the parts in stock?

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by RevSublime
Sweet...thanks a lot NewToNitro.

Is it just me or is it kinda sad that the company that owns Losi doesnt have the parts in stock?

Yea...i cant stand horizon. They never have what i want and half the time i cant even find it on their site.

[RevSublime]

It seems to me that perhaps Horizon should have let Stormer buy Losi...heh

[Aluma]

dude, ebay has just about every XXX-T part you can think of...check there aswell.

[RevSublime]

Originally posted by Aluma
dude, ebay has just about every XXX-T part you can think of...check there aswell.


Been there, done that...they got some XXXT stuff...but not much in the way of the graphite pieces.

Hell...I'm having to look at picking up rolling MFE chassis'.

[Casper]

They have all the graphite pieces. There are guys that are parting out MF and DE and KE kits on ebay which is all graphite stuff. I see more graphite parts then non graphite parts on ebay these days.

[RevSublime]

Hmmm...then maybe i gotta work on my searches.

I usually just search for everything XXXT. I never get more than one page of parts listings and most of those are from Lunsford, MIP, RPM gearcovers, bearings...

[Casper]

Do a "losi" search. There usually only get 10-15 pages of listings which does not take that long to sift throgh. The parts kits are usually done in a row of auctions so they are easy to spot.

[NewToNitro]

Casper do you have AIM or MSN?

[Casper]

I do have access to aim but if you want to just e-mail me direct. That is better. I am rearly on aim and my work does not like that kind of activity. nielsen_d@yahoo.com if you need to ask me questions directly. I check my e-mail often so you can get a quick response.

[LasagnaCat]

Rev.. as mentioned you need to refine your searches a little bit.. Remember that the truck is technically a xxx-t, so if you're searching for "xxxt" you're going to miss the things that are listed correctly and only get the things that were listed 'wrong.' The safest way is to do both xxxt AND xxx-t separately, or just go for 'losi' as mentioned... spelling on eBay is a lost cause to some degree, so I usually try to put both/alternate spellings in my auction titles to avoid that when people do their searches.. As another quick option, once you find the people (as mentioned, it's the same one or two people always) that are constantly parting the kits out you can just search for their stuff using their seller name... or just put one of their items on your watch list, then go back to it and click on their 'other auctions' link whenever you need something.. lots of possibilities..

[NewToNitro]

Well i just ordered a new XXX-T Matt Francis and im going to use the used one i bought for parts. :) I cant wait till it gets here.

[Aluma]

Hey guys, how do you install the rear sway bar of the XX-T into the MF XXX-T? do you need to cut or something?

[RcSteve86]

I have a xxxt spec, and the differential allways slips no matter what I do, I think I might need steel outdrives, instead of the plastic ones. Any help is greatly appreciated

[Casper]

Aluma-- You need the XX sway bar kit. Then you use the two holes on the back of the batter box just in front of the rear shock tower upper screws to mount the bar using the clips to hold the sway bar in place. I hope this makes some kind of sense.

RcSteve86-- Make sure you replace the diff nut. It may be stripped. You do not need to run the diff really tight you just need to make sure the slipper slips before the diff. Replace the diff nut and try it again. I run the plastic outdrives with slidders on all my car and have not had a problem with them. In other words you should not need to run the steel outdrives unless you want to. I run an 11T in my truck for the reedy with slidders so they can take the abuse!

[Aluma]

yeah....i got the XX kit.... but when i use the supplied mounts, the ends of the swaybar dont line up vertically with the ball ends in the arms, plus the ball ends on the swaybar touch the drive shafts.

[Casper]

I do not know what to say with that. I have seen the XX sway bar put on the XXX but not on the XXX-t. I would have to see how you have it installed to figure out what the problem might be. You installed the sway bar using the empty holes in the battery box sides right?

[Aluma]

actually i was trying to use the screws that hold the rear tower and are right above the battery box... I suppose you mean the empty holes on the lip of the chassis on both sides... hmmm but the bar would have to go through the battery if I mount it there.

[thijs]

hee, here's a link where the swaybar is mounted, maybe it will help.
Good luck with it

URL: http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures02/Cactus/modtruck_winner.jpg

Thijs

[clw]

The angled/slanted ribs, outside or inside? A-7505 truck fronts to be used on sandy red clay (Florida) that doesn't blue groove.

Thanks

[Casper]

Aluma-- The batter will fit under the bar. thijs has a good pic that shows it is possible.

clw-- Angles inboard ///|| ||\\\ the tires will look like this when mounted on the car.

[Aluma]

LOL... I was trying to mount it on the wrong holes... AHAHAAHAHAHHAHAHA... :P :D thanks y'all...

[clw]

Thanks Casper:

Nice diagram, took me a second to figure out I was seeing both tires in a top view.

[jahdisp25]

I have been pondering the thought of a getting a XXXT sport here and was wondeering if it is worth it?

Since I am new to electric and have been a nitro guy how long can I run the truck on an avergae pack?

What is the estimated speed?

What more am I getting as opposed to say an evader?

I think the price is definately reasonable?

[Aluma]

well....you're getting a truck leaps and bounds ahead of an evader. You'd have to invest I'm guessing over 200 bucks to get it to a Matt Francis level...if its possible. The evader tends to break things every time you race...not always but the plastic is very weak and I've seen the shock rods bent on small doubles and such...even the gear in the tranny are rather weak...I broke it just trying to set the diff correctly on my old evader. :P I now have a MF XXX-T and its much faster, easier to maintain, everything. Unfortunately I found that I cant drive offroad. hehehe... well, atleast not with the Axiom 11X2 I put in it. :D

scared the heck outta me when i soared over the table top at my local track going 1/4 throttle! I was all like..." AHHHHHHHHHH:eek: " I thought it was gonna break for sure on landing....but it didn't... the evader woulda snapped in half from that jump. :D

[dgrobe2112]

Like Aluma said.. the XXXT is leaps and bounds ahead of all the competition.. It is easy set up.. and easy to fix and maintain. If you get the RC car action magazine.. and look at all the race results.. you will see that the XXXT is at the top every time.. i am begining to wonder if they even race T3 and others.. I hightly reccommend the Matt Francis edition.. with graphite and threaded shocks.. all ball bearings, even in the steering.. that will make your steering alot more responsive.. and quicker....

I have never seen anybody race a evader, everyone who races in our stock class are running the XXXT.. and a few race the T3.. but XXXT is at the top of the list of trucks at our track..

By the way.. you can get the Matt Francis edition for 249.99 at your LHS.. or you can go to Ebay and get a brand new one for 229.99..

[dgrobe2112]

oh yeah.. as far as speed goes.. it depends on your electronics.. you gotta have a high end ESC to handle a low turn motor.. the lower the turn the faster.. you got a stock motor is 27 turn.. then they go down from there you got a mild 19 turn motor and you can get as far down to i think a 5 turn.. but of course the lower the turn the motor, the more juice it pulls from the battery.. but the faster you go.. i have seen electrics smoke nitro trucks.. but then the battery goes dead and there goes the nitro truck..

As far as run time.. i use a 27 turn stock motor and use 3000mA batteries.. thats good for about 8-10 minutes of run time.. and of course the lower the turn motor the lower the runtime..

[jahdisp25]

Thanks guys for all your help, it helped me a lot!

I just bought a new HPI savage and before that I had a duratrax maximum MT in which I basically converted into a buggy type since it had a buggy chassis. I am looking to sell that and pick up an electric.

Dont get me wrong I love nitro but I want to get something that involves less maintenance and tuning like a nitro does. It seems that your always messing with something, whereas an electric you just plug that battery in and go! I like that idea, no pulling to start it!

I think I will get one of these Losi's!

[dgrobe2112]

Are you selling your Savage?? Do you have any pics?? How much do you want for it??

Thanks

[Drayken S4S]

I know this has probably been asked before and I will get yelled at, but oh well.

I have been trying to read these pages for the info, and the screen is starting to get blurry on me, LOL. I need to take a break. I still have not found what I need:

I plan to run stock, on a short, tight track. I want to know what lightweight gears, shafts, etc... I should buy, before I build my kit. Also, where I can get the best screw kit.

Thanks for the help, or even a hint to which page my info may be on, lol.

[dgrobe2112]

I highly reccommend you purchase the Team Losi molded outdrives and titanium sleeves.. this will greatly reduce the weight of your diff.. (literally, the whole diff will weigh less than one of the steel outdrives in the kit) maybe the lighten upper shaft will be nice.. As far as a screw kit goes.. definitly get the titanium ball studs.. and titanium tie rods.. the screws in the kit work fine.. as long as you take care of the truck by regularly cleaning the truck of dirt and mud.. if you allow the stock screw to get build up in them.. or rusty.. they will strip.. but i dont think it will be a problem.. there is a very tight and nice screw kit on ebay right now go to www.ebay.com and look this number up 3121038244 that will look great with the red Francis parts..

[losixxx213]

I'd get the lighter top shaft, and then the lightend slipper plates by trinity. Some things about the plastic outdrives are: they don't last long(even with the the outdrive savers made by trinity, all the outdrive savers do is keep them from shattering when using a mod), and they don't connect as fast as the steel outdrives do(if you doubt this ask todd hodge).

[Drayken S4S]

Thanks guys. I don't like that kit on ebay, it is aluminum screws, which are not too strong.

The MFE doesn't come with Ti tie-rods? Hmm, thought it did, guess not.

[socaliracer]

I HAVE A XXX-T THATS BRAND NEW WITH A AIRTRONICS 357 HIGH SPEED SERVO,AIRTRONICS M8 RADIO W/THE RECEIVER 2 EXTRTA SETS OF CRYSTALS,AN LRP QUANTUM COMP,3 TRINITY 3000'S MRC SUPER BRAIN PEAK CHARGER AND ALOT OF EXTRA PARTS THAT I WILL THROW IN FOR 575.00

[Casper]

Drayken S4S -- The MF kit does come with ti tie rods and the alum top shaft. The plastic outdrives with savers work well along with alum CVD bones if you really want to save weight but you will sacrifice durability which means they will break or wear out faster. The trinity lightened slipper plates are a good idea also. Also get the trinity al rear pivot block. Other then that you get the rest of the cool stuff in the kit. There are a few other hopups but non of them are "needed". I run the Trinity al rear hubs to give me the stand up rear ball studs and the trinity al shock collars are nice to have. Hope this helps.

[Drayken S4S]

Again, thank you.

Hmm, I think I will stick with the stock bones or whatever. For now, I rather have the durability. I rather finish in 4th, than break down while in 1st, LOL.

I will go ahead and get the slipper plates and pivot block, thanks.

[socaliracer]

HEY DRAKEN DID YOU BUY YOUR TRUCK YET ??

[Drayken S4S]

I have had it for over a year, lol. But with my job, I couldn't race last season, so I never built it. And in a year's time, you tend to forget all the things you were planning to get for it. :)

[NickDawg18]

Just wanted to share my XXXT with ya guys. :D

[NickDawg18]

and another

[NickDawg18]

another

[NickDawg18]

last one in racing form!

[losixtreme1]

I was wondering if anybody knows what oil comes in the shocks for the RTR truck. Thanks

[Casper]

You should be able to tell from the color of the oil but my guess would be 30wt. This is pretty typical for a stock setup. 30 wt is clear with losi shock oils.

[losixtreme1]

if i was botteming out very easily. what oil should i go to. im not new and i know that it is suppose to bottem out, but it practicly does on the landing ramps and is making me get sides ways after landing. any help would be apreciated thanks

[Little Al]

I have two XXXT MF and run 40 weight in the front and 50 in the rear in one. The second I run 40 weight in the front and 70 in the rear.

[Gutter Ball]

I run 25 - 32.5 weight in the rear with yellow springs and I don't seem to have a bottoming out problem. What positions are your shocks mounted?

[losixtreme1]

umm im pretty sure its all the stock things. i have moved the camber in on the hub cuz it my xxxt tuning guid it say that it wont handle bums very well with it on the outside. im at school right now so i dont know exactly where they are.i think the third out on top and tthe inside on the arm

[Casper]

To keep the car from bottoming out you will want to go to a smaller holed piston. This will help to increase the "pack" in the shocks which will help with the bottoming out. If you car is bouncing it can be two things. Either the shocks are way too soft and the chassis is hitting too hard or you have too much pack and the shocks cannot react in time.