Losi XXX Forum v2.0

[Casper]

In a proline tire you might want to try holeshots. If those clog up bad then bow ties should work. Proline does not make there fuzzie tire anymore which would be just like an ifmar pin. Other then the holeshot I do not like pro-line tires much due to the fact that they seem to wear out too fast.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Casper
The pivot block has 2 deg of ANTI SQUAT. This is the angle the arms are from parallel to the ground. If you look close the front of the arm will be higher then the rear of the arm. This causes the car to resist squating under acceleration. All of the XXX pivot blocks have 3 deg of toe in built in to them. There is not an option that I have seen to fix this. With the old XX you could run the stock setup where the toe-in was in the hubs or the 'CR' rear end were the toe-in came from the pivot block like the XXX series of cars has it. I do not know why it is mentioned on the setup sheet. The only way to change the toe in is the buy the 1 deg hubs and that will give you 2 deg total toe-in or 4 deg total toe in depending on how you mount them. Trinity sells there aluminum rear hubs with 2 deg of toe-in to you could get up to 5 deg or as little and 1 if you really wanted to. This is not something typically adjusted on electric cars. You want the 2 deg pivot block because with the included 2 deg wedges you can run 0, 2, or 4 deg of anti squat with the 2 deg block (2 deg ie no wedges is stock but this is a neat thing to play with and I am running 0 deg in my truck) Trinity also sells a 0 deg anti squat pivot block but it limits your tuning ablity. I hope this clears that up.


got it...since this is my firsttime racing off road with a buggy,after years of racing Nitro touring,I assumed every number referred to toe,not anti squat...just to be clear,the 2 degree(anti squat) pivot block(which has 3 degree toe) is teh one to get....along with the 0 degree rear hubs.....???.....does that cover it?....


by the way..that was the nicest,most clear,consise answer I'v think I've ever recieved on any forum....thank you..

[tarvymoto]

Harry , you have it right bro

[fastharry]

well,I have the back end put together also....I really like the way this car is designed.....its not like pieces are bolted together,it s more like the car was designed as a single piece,and then put into individual pieces..if you get my idea...

and I'll tell you something else..the screw quality is way better than my TC3 nitros...

[Casper]

Like Travymoto said you have all the right infomation now. The XXX series of cars are excelent in quality and performance. Once you break in the car and get some slop in the suspension do not worry too much about it. These cars almost work better with a little slop. You should shim it out once it gets too excessive though. I ran the same XXX for 4 years and it still performed well. These cars are awsome. It will be interesting to see how the stack up to the new B4 whenever AE finally releases the car. I think the losi will be just fine though. The AE looks a lot like the XXX and I do not see any major improvements to the design.

[banditwing]

Hey, I own an xxx-nt, and I have really begun to like losi as a company, and I think they kick butt. Like in a year I'm thinking about buying an eletric buggy. Either the xxx-4 or xxx or maybe the b4, since ae seems like a good company too. I have a couple questions about the xxx for you guys.

1. How big is the turning radius on a xxx, would you say the same as a b3?
2. I am a bit afraid to buy a xxx, because I have a gut feeling that losi will announce that they are coming out with a xxxx the day after I buy the kit. What are the chances of losi redesigning their buggy in the next year or so since it has been a while since the xxx came out?
3. Does losi even produce the regular xxx anymore? or is it just the KE and the dirt spec?

-Thanks

[Casper]

1. Same
2. No there are no plans for a XXXX. It will be at least a year after the B4 comes out and it is a year away.
3. Only the spec and the kinwald. They should have a RTR soon.

[fastharry]

Casper..happy new year...

[banditwing]

Thanks Casper, the turning radius was the main concern because I run in a fairly small track (actually very small lol) and my eletric rustler's turning radius a'int cuttin it too well. These buggies have a lot of steering right? If I do get a xxx, I most likely would get the KE, I've yet to own a factory vehicle and rtr's dont suit me.

-Thanks for the help

[tarvymoto]

Once you build one of Losi's signiture kits you will fully appreciate how sweet and worth the money they really are.

[Casper]

The turing radius will be a little better for the buggy but setup right the losi or the AE should turn better then your traxxas car. If you are looking just at the turning radius as it would be on a street at slow speeds they would all be pretty close but put a little over steer in your car and you can pivot around the corners.

[banditwing]

Yeah I was drooling over the Drake edition xnt, but that was a little too much $$ for me at the time, so I settled with the rtr, then found an awsome deal on a reg kit xnt. ANd even the regular kit is awsome quality so I cant imagine a signature kit:D Yeah my rustler sucks at turning radius, but my xnt, it is doing great in turning radius. Just a question: how do I dial oversteer into a truck, im fairly new at seting up rc's? (I mean i understand the basics with springs and shock oil weight and camber, but im still new to it)?

Thanks.

Oh, and how durable is the xxx generally? Compared to a xnt, and what is the most likely thing to break?

Thanks for answering my many questions

[Casper]

Yeah I know about the great deal on the reg XXXNT kits. I saw them for $134. For the XXX I am not sure what breaks the most. I have not broken mine in over a year of racing. If you need spare parts I would get the spindle hub parts bag and some front and rear arms. What usually happens is you break a ball stud in the front bulk or the rear shock tower which really sucks. I recomend forking out the dough and getting titanium ball studs for the inside ball studs. If you break an outer ball stud if you put a long enough one in you can back it out the other side and salvage the part easier. Also the alum rear pivot block is a good idea. OTher then that you should be good to go. If you get a plastic kit I suggest the graphite battery brace. The stock one flexes too much and your batteries might fall out once in a while on big crashes.

[Casper]

Oh I also have a setup sheet for dummies on my web site. It will try and explain how what to change to make the car do different things. It is a complilation of all the losi tips in the back of the manual and online discussions with Matt Francis and Adam Drake.

http://home.att.net/~casper04

[banditwing]

Thanks Casper, well, by looking at the XXX-4 it is too expensive for me, especially considering that the front arms break more often. I will wait to see how the xxx stacks up against the b4 till I make my decision final, but thanks alot for the help!

[drumr racer]

Hey you guys that own a XXX.
Looking at the pics of the B4, do you think that Team Associated used alot of the XXX's ideas?
And do you think I should wait 4 a B4, or just get a Kinwald Edition?;)

[decypher]

B4 won't be out for a few months at least. The XXX KE is a great buggy. I would invest in it.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Geez! It's been quite some time since I've talked here. I took my XXX Spec out yesterday for the first time ever, since I got all my electronics. WOW!! I LOVE THIS CAR!!! It's fast, and unbreakable! I raced up and down the street, adn jumped it at the bottom of my driveway. I like it better than my FT TC3, partly because there is still some snow on the ground. I'll have to see when the snow goes to compare...wait, what am I saying? It's like apples and oranges...Anywho, I have some pics...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid45/p5ff826bc08f7717c596032a67e1fe277/fcd302ed.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid45/pc8ba47075be7ef6690a9d506b2745888/fcd302e7.jpg.orig.jpg
So, here is what I have in it:

Futaba Magnium Jr. 3PCKA FM radio
LRP F1 Pro Reverse
Team Orion Sanyo 2400 cells
DuraTrax Intellipeak Charger/discharger
Trinity Chameleon 19-turn Spec Modified Motor
Deans' connectors
Dean's battery jig
etc...

I have modded the buggy, with Black RPM ball cups, since my other ones weren't smooth. I also have added threaded shocks, Blue lucknuts for the front and rear wheels, Blue screw kit, and a coustom painted body. I'm running the stock spur gear, and a 22 pinion gear. I have a 30 pinion gear, but I think I'l just keep it on the shelf. I wanted to know a few things. I want to know where can I find a site that carries Neon Yellow Ball cups, Trinity blue shock collars, for my threaded shocks, blue aluminum motor plate, Lundsford Ti Turnbuckles, spring cups that are neon yellow and some tire glue ffor the wheels, since they aren't glued. I ant to know why I can't seem to find the front kick plate and motor guard made by RPM? They have the wide one, but I really don't want that one. I want them to both be neone yellow, but I can't find them anywhere! Could someone help me? I can't find them anywhere. I also wanted to know if I could get blue aluminum axles for the front. I don't like the stock axles, so could I get the solid axles for the front, sorta like the ones for the trucks? I think the axles for the front don't stick out far enough, and so I don't have enough left out to secure the locknut to it. I want bearings to, but I can't find them either. So, please point me in the right direction. BTW what do you all think If my body? It was the first ever for me, so I don't think it's too bad..I've just charged up my batts, so c ya!

-A. Swift

[Casper]

For all of your parts try www.stormerhobbies.com they will have the trinity blue collars and the losi and RPM parts. Losi makes Yellow front and rear bumpers for this car. RPM and losi make yellow ball cups. You cannot get solid axles like the truck. The front axle design simplifies your life by not haveing to deal with the front bearings in the wheels. The bearings last longer this way also. If you built the car right the axles will engage the the lock nuts but because the car is at the legal limit for width the threads cannot stick out since that would make the car too wide! Stormer will have the bearings and the ti tie rods for you also. They have a really complete list of on-line parts for you shopping pleasure.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Yeah, I was surfing their site all day today, and I found what I was looking for. I just wish I could get those front axles. Also, what size bearings should I get for my car?

-A. Swift

[banditwing]

Does the xxx have "live" front axels like a rustler, or the stationary ones where the bearing is in the wheel like on a xxx-t or xxx-nt??
-Thanks

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I would say th xxx is a "live" front axle. It nas bearings, or bushings, based on what you have, but they are in the front spindles. The actual thing that turns the front wheels, are the hex front stub axles. My friend has one of those older traxxas TCP-1 (I think) and it had the bearing in the wheel. I converted my car, to test the new and the old, and I found the stub axles to be much better. I found the bearing in the wheel was too sloppy, and it gave out too much. I could be as fast, or precise in a corner, since I was afraid the front wheel would come off.

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I forgot, I had questions! What size bearings do I need for my car to be converted, and how many? I want he whole thing done. Oh, and I know I have asked this before, but who painted drew loftus' car? I know I asked before, but I kinda want a pro-painted ody in my arsenal, and I like the guys style. So, please LMK. Yes, I'm a senior member...

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

On the topic of the front drive axles, and them sticking out too much, I did put mine together correctly. The locknut engages the axle threads, and then there is absolutly no threads hanging out. Thsi makes me nervous when I go out, since I don't want the wheel come off at full speed, since that's happened to me before, with another car. I wanted to know why matt francis could accomplish this, yet not get in trouble. If you have September 2002's issue of RCCA, please get it out. Turn to page 136, and look at the pic on top. The threads are hanging well out from the nut on his front axles. How did he do this?

-A. Swift

[Casper]

Drew loftus has his bodies painted by Skipgear if I am not mistaken. Check them out at www.skipgear.com As for the bearings I am not sure which ones you are missing in the Sport kit. If it is just the wheel bearings you will need 4 3/8X3/16 for the rear hubs and you will need and you will need 4 more for the front. Then if you want ball bearing steering you will need to get 4 3/32X3/16 bearings for that. The losi part number for the steering bearings is a-6912. The tranny already has bearings right? As far as the front wheels as long as you have the nuts on tight they should not fall off. I have not had a front wheel fall off unless the axle broke!

[redneck]

does any one have a list of spur gear colours i just got a handful of losi spur gears there is no number on the gear so i guess they go by colour which color is what size ????

[Casper]

These are the ones that I remember: white/78, yellow/82, purple/84, red/86, green/88.

[redneck]

thank you casper

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I need help on another subject. I want to convert the rear end to dogbones, from the universal kit. I tried to find a kit conversion on stormer, but I can't find one. Any ideas of what I need? I know the dogbones, and the diff halfs, but other than that, I don't know...

-A. Swift

[Casper]

Losi does not have dog bones for there cars. I am guessing you mean floating bog bones like AE. They have CVD's, losi universal's and slider shafts. Floating dog bones are the worst design of them all as the bones fall out. Let me know which one you would want convert from and to and I will get you the part numbers.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Sorry. I have universals, but I wanna change to what bk has. NOT because he has it, but because my friend has it, and it doesn't bind up. I wanna convert over to them, when I change to bearings...I feel I don't have the need for the MIP CVDs, so I think this is the next best thing...

-A. Swift

[Casper]

If you have the spec kit you have sliders. This is what I run for stock racing. They are cheep and VERY light and they last forever. I personally like them a lot. If you want to go to the losi universal bones you will just need the universal bones and metal or plastic outdrives.

This is what you need

A-3081 Buggy Dogbone/Drive Shaft w/Yoke (XX, XXX,& XX4) $7.50

2X A-3073 Outdrive Cup (Steel) (all except LRM & XXX-NT) $7.00 (for steel outdrives)
+ A-3072 Differential Tube (all except LRM & XXX-NT) $2.25

if you want the composite outdrives:

A-3097 Molded Outdrive Set (Pin Drive) $12.95

You need the differential tube if you are going to run the steel outdrives. This tube is molded into the molded outdrives offered by losi.

Hope this helps. If you do get the mouded outdrives I would recommend the trinity alum or titanium outdrive savers that run about $20.00 as these outdrives can break under normal use by themselves.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Thanks. Which outdrives should I get? Steel, or composite? I want them to last a while, yet be light, so I'm lost here..

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Isn't A-3097 outdrive set for the XXX-S, and XX4? That's what stormer said...

-A. Swift

[Casper]

If you want strong and them to last forever keep the slidders. The steel outdrives will last longer but one steel oudrive weighs the same as the ENTIRE plastic diff! It will be up to you. Yes the Composite outdrives are the front outdrives for the 4wd cars but they can be used in the rear of a 2wd with no modification. IT will be up to you.

[jeffk42]

Man, this thread is huge! :eek:

I just purchased a XXX Kinwald a couple of days ago, and after putting it together and seeing what a great car it is (I raced it the day after completing the build :) ), I decided to find a forum site with a lot of info on them... So I came here to look around, but didn't register for a while.

Anyway, I created a Team Losi forum, since there wasn't a dedicated one out there that I could find. If anyone's interested in seeing it, it's at http://www.teamlosidrivers.org/forums

It's empty now, since no one knows it exists. ;) It's not even really done yet, I need to add a title graphic and a few other things to get it looking right. But feel free to join and add your two cents in if you like. :)

Anyway, so that's how happy I was with the car. :) First place in my first two races on Sunday. It was my first time ever out on an off-road course.

[LosiMan3456]

Man, I haven't posted here in a long time!

I went to the Columbus Midwest Champs and took 1st in the D-main in truck and 8th in the D-main for buggy, both stock. Pretty good for my age. It was a blast, real first big race I'd been too. Anyone else go?

Recently I got a sway bar kit and I have a couple questions about it. First off, what are the main rules I should go by when using one, like pack, cambr links etc. I know less pack definately. I should use one on highbite smooth tracks right? When should I use the front and when should I use the rear and hw thick of one?

I bought ths from a guy at my LHS and it has 2 seperate kits and some extras. It has the collet ballstud things, but on has a longer collet part. Is there a certain time to use a different one? It also included a blue aluminum peice that kinda looks like a T. The screw goes into it. Is that also for mounting it where the white thing goes? It is a little shorter though.

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks!

Littleman

[fastharry]

just an update on my behalf........I've been racing the KW na couple of weeks now......Now I know what every meant when they said driving 2 wd buggy can make you a better driver...

I've been racing rally 2years..and nitro touring 7.....(also 8th buggy(kanai) and on road.....(veteq)....

but buggy iis tougher that I thought......amazing how much 4wd really helps:D

but I'm sticking with it..it is FUN class.....I'm actually following teh leaders through corners,and down the starights..it's the jumps that are killing me....I've hit everthing possible......the pole,the heater,teh wall...2 turn marshalls....the funny part is,the car always lands flat..I just can't aim it off the jump.....the jump is off a wide 180 berm,coming at me..so its hard to judge...But I'll get it...

One good point..the car has broken nothing.....which I consider prtetty much amazing..


thanks to all you guys forv your help.....

[losixxx213]

Does anyone know what the part number is for the graphite front shock tower for a xxx? and what size bearings do you need for the steering in the xxx?

[Casper]

There is only one front shock tower for the XXX. They are all graphite. A-1107 Front Shock Tower (XXX) $6.00. There are some people that make after market towers but the losi one works great. Unless you broke the one you have there is not a better one that you can get.

A-6912 3/32" x 3/16" Bearing for Steering (XX, XXT) $19.95 are the bearings for the steering on all XX and XXX cars.

[losixxx213]

Thanks for the help, I didn't know that the only shock tower they have for the xxx is graphite, thanks again.

[Casper]

The front shock tower is not molded. It is actually woven grphite. Back in the day they used to have fiberglass towers (original RC10 days) but those are too soft. Losi chose to use the woven graphite for this tower since it can be constant thickness so they did not mold it. Because of this all of them are the same. If they molded the tower like the rears they would offer plastic and graphite towers.

[LosiMan3456]

Can anyone answer my swaybar question?

[Casper]

I do not know of any hard and fast rules to when you want to use a sway bar. Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering. I will consider using a sway bar on the rear of the car if the suspension is dumping in the corners. Dumping means the car will be going through a high speed corner and all of a sudden the rear end will break loose and you can see the suspension give out. The car will roll and the rear end will come around. The Sway bar will complensate from not enough rear spring in the rear for cornering. It allows you to run soft spring for bumps and acceleration but keep the rear end more stable at high speeds. It is most beneficial on smooth high bite tracks to keep the car flat and take away some rear traction and allow the car to rotate. I do not have any experience running a front sway bar but I would imagain it would to a similar thing. It will take away steering and help keep the front end level. I tend to setup my cars so I do not need to run swaybars. I hope this helps some.

[fastharry]

and while your answering that question,has anyone tried the trinity Kinwald rear end conversion,where the camber rods mount up top...and have you tried it under racing condition..?

[Casper]

The CRE is for VERY HIGH BITE tracks. It is supposed to kind of do the same thing as a swaybar. It will stiffen up the rear roll of the car. I have not tried it as I do not race at a track with those conditions. I do run the regular trinity rear hubs that have verticle ball studs. Moving the ball stud up and down changes the roll center of the car. It is a fine adjustment. Moving the stud up is like makeing the camber rod a little shorter and moving the stud down is like making the camber rod a little longer.

[fastharry]

thanks....are those hubs the same as in that kit,or different?..

[Casper]

Trinity makes the CRE rear hubs and the standard 0 deg rear hubs. The CRE hubs are wider then the standard hubs.

These are the standard TK5102

http://www.teamtrinity.com/accessories/images/TK/TK5102.jpg

These are the CRE rear hubs. Notice you will need shorter CVD's for the CRE hubs which is why they sell the kit.

http://www.teamtrinity.com/accessories/images/TK/TK5072.jpg

[losixxx213]

Does anyone know what kind of shock shafts come in the hard anodized shock sets(part numbers a-5032,a-5033)? Are they the titanium nitrided? and do they come with the seals?

[losixxx213]

Also I'm putting everything graphite except for the chassis and I have a jr xr2 radio, I was wondering if this would cause alot of clitching or not?

[Casper]

The shock sets do not come with ti nitrite shock shafts. Those kits do come with everything you need to build 2 complete shocks except for the shock oil! As for the glitching question. The graphite chassis would be the only thing that would help to cause interference. The rest of the parts would be isolated by the plastic chassis.

[losixxx213]

If I drill a small hole in my antenna tube and bypass putting the antenna through the chassis or have it touch the chassis at all, would it glitch alot or not?

[losifreak2004]

losixxx - As long as the antenna wire does not touch the chassis, that should eliminate your glitching problems (if it is indeed the chassis that is causing it).

Everyone - Hello! Good to see all these posts...there's a LOT. Hope Casper has been a big help ;)

I will do my best to keep up with any questions fired my way. You can e-mail me at awaldron@teamurc.com or IM me at AaronWaldron1. There is a big gas race this weekend, but I will be home Saturday and then from Monday on!

Aaron Waldron

[NewToNitro]

Well im buyin a used Triple X Kinwald sunday :) I hope i like it

[Casper]

New-- I have no doubts you will be thrilled with this buggy! :D

[losixxx213]

I'm getting a new xxxke, are there any tips on assembling it(to make it easier)? Does it have titanium hingpins?

[NewToNitro]

2 more days! I cant wait.

[losixxx213]

I'm assembling this thing tonight, any ideas to make assembling easier?

[fastharry]

well,racing went pretty good tonite....but in one heat,I broke a ball end...of course,it snapped right in the carbon shock tower(nice touch)....anyway,all they has were teh std ones,so i put that one one..


heres my question.....when i put a graphite back in,any secrets?.....according to the guys U race with,xxx's cab do this..

Titanium balls a better idea?...or maybe MIP's BJ's oversize stainless?.....does Losi make anything better?...thanks..

[Casper]

Kit building tips. Get a good set of wrenches. You will want at least a 3/32 and a 1/16th. A good .050 is worth its weight in gold also. The only other things are follow the instructions closely, take your time and pretap the holes with the gold taping screw they give you!

ti ball studs are a great idea for the shock tower in the rear and the front bulkhead locations. When these break your are SOL. I run steel in the outside because if you use the long ones you can back them out. The steel should break before the ti. I have had pretty good luck with these.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Casper
Kit building tips. Get a good set of wrenches. You will want at least a 3/32 and a 1/16th. A good .050 is worth its weight in gold also. The only other things are follow the instructions closely, take your time and pretap the holes with the gold taping screw they give you!

ti ball studs are a great idea for the shock tower in the rear and the front bulkhead locations. When these break your are SOL. I run steel in the outside because if you use the long ones you can back them out. The steel should break before the ti. I have had pretty good luck with these.

thanks..does losi make ti balls?....I picked up some Hammad Gumman in case they don't..think the HG's are OK?...

[Casper]

Losi does make ti ball studs. They are actually made by lunsford for losi. I do not have any experience with HG ball studs so I cannot comment on them. The losi ones work great though!

[chozometroid]

Hey, I just got a Losi XXX (hasn't arrived yet), and I have a few questions:

1.) What are some things that should be replaced, and/or what problem areas are there?

2.) How does this Losi rank among other companies' models in terms of durability and quality?

3.) Is the XXX-T more durable than the XXX? What are the differences in driving a XXX compared to XXX-T?

4.) How do you convert an XXX buggy into an XXX-T truck? What parts/steps are needed?

Thanks a bunch! Any answers are greatly appreciated.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Well, it's been some time since I've been here...

It depends on which kit you have. Could you be more specific?
The buggy and teh truck are very alike. They share gearboxes, with the final drive ratio the same. I think all you need is new dogbones, new front adn rear a-arms, adn a new shock tower for the front.I personally own the buggy, adn WOW! The quality is second to none. I chose this car over teh associated (it's closest competitor) because I believe this car is easier to work on, adn is a better built car overall. I don't hate associated, as I do have a FT TC3, but as far as off-road, I chose none other than that of the losis!

-A. Swift

[losifreak2004]

chozometroid - If you are getting a stock XXX kit (as opposed to the Kinwald Edition kit), then it would be wise for you to invest in a set of Lunsford turnbuckles. This is all your car will really need. As you break parts, you can replace them with aftermarket goodies, but that is really the only weak aspect of the kit.

If you are getting a Kinwald Edition XXX, however, you won't need anything!

Losi is second to none when it comes to customer service, parts fit and finish, and quality control.

The XXX-T has bigger tires than the buggy, which often help cushion in a collision. However, the suspension arms are also longer, which provide more leverage to break parts. Both cars are very durable when it comes to dealing with the everyday abuse of racing that they were designed to handle (which is just a nice way of saying...don't expect your car to live through countless beatings into walls and such ;))

The two share very few parts; the chassis and nearly all of the suspension components are different. It would be cheaper and more worth the time to buy a separate XXX-T kit.

Aaron Waldron

[chozometroid]

Thank you both for your input. I welcome more input. ;)
It is the stock kit, I guess, but has some titanium parts.
I don't know everything in detail, though. It was a good deal (I think).

Losi XXX buggy w/ some titanium parts
3 bodies
extra wheels
2- 2700 batteries
Tekin Rebel ESC
Futaba MS and servo
DC charger
$150 shipped

Right now, all I have is a recently built Grasshopper 2 Super G kit. :D

[NewToNitro]

If anyone has some XXX KE instructions they can scan and mail me a page or 2 let me know. I bought mine used and didnt get the manual with it. Plus if anyone has AIM or MSN messanger please IM me(HPIAUDITT on AIM and fasttransamws6@hotmail.com on MSN)

[chozometroid]

I second that. (email me (maggedus@rpgdesign.com) )
But, as a second option, NewtoNitro:
Did you know Losi has exploded views of their cars on their site?
I printed mine out.

http://www.teamlosi.com

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by chozometroid
I second that. (email me (maggedus@rpgdesign.com) )
But, as a second option, NewtoNitro:
Did you know Losi has exploded views of their cars on their site?
I printed mine out.

http://www.teamlosi.com


But nothing for the KE or the diff :(

[chozometroid]

Yeah. But it does say "Online Manual Coming Soon" on the XXX-KE page.

At least it has setup sheets for it! *shrugs* ;o

[losixxx213]

I just got my ke new for 184.99 at my lhs, i'll try to get to a scanner and send you the part of the manual on the diff.

[Casper]

You can look at the diff build from the XXX-4 rear diff. That is the same as the KE. Look at the diff build A-10 through A-19. That will get you by until the get the rest of the manual's uploaded.

[losifreak2004]

You can call Losi directly and ask for a manual...they will send them to you no questions asked!

Aaron Waldron

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by Casper
You can look at the diff build from the XXX-4 rear diff. That is the same as the KE. Look at the diff build A-10 through A-19. That will get you by until the get the rest of the manual's uploaded.

I cant find those instructions online either :(

[Casper]

http://www.teamlosi.com/xxx4_page/index.htm

For the XXX-4 instructions. Losi will send you the instructions like Aaron said but this will get you started until the new manual arrives.

[NewToNitro]

Great thanks!:D

[losifreak2004]

*applauds*

Good show Casper...good form! LOL

Aaron Waldron

[ole]

Hi guys ! What important hop up parts should i buy to make my buggy stronger?

[Casper]

Depending on which kit you start out with ti tie rods are a must. From there the Trinity rear support block is a good idea. Other then that the car is really strong. There are other things you can buy but for strength reasons I cannot think of anything else you really need or really helps.

[dgrobe2112]

you can also.. use the XXXt diff directions as well.. they work the same..

[Sean Doherty]

heres a pic of my xxx ke

[Sean Doherty]

pic

[smolaga]

Probably a stupid question but.....
What does the losi xxx-spec buggy kit come with:

servos?
any radio equip?
motor?
speed controller?

thanks for any feedback.

[Sean Doherty]

the spec comes with nothing just a rolling chassis

[losixxx213]

This buggy is a killer. After driving my friends b3 and haveing to let off the throttle through almost every turn at the track, I forgot to give my xxx the juice and got passed a few times in the race. I like how easy this buggy is to drive and the fact that you can get back on the throttle sooner than other buggies.

[losimaniac87]

http://216.229.90.210/images/xxx.jpg

[mooplea]

Heres my losi xxx (not ke), full graphite, titanium etc..

Body looks a little more battered now!..


http://www.oople.com/rc/xxx01.jpg

[mx416]

Originally posted by Casper
Depending on which kit you start out with ti tie rods are a must. From there the Trinity rear support block is a good idea. Other then that the car is really strong. There are other things you can buy but for strength reasons I cannot think of anything else you really need or really helps.

I had the Trinity pivot block in my XXX and broke so many pivot plates it wasn't even funny. I went through an average of 2 plates per day of racing (4 runs). That is including using plastic and graphite. I race on an indoor carpet track so that could have had something to do with it, I'm not sure. And no I don't suck at driving, I one of the top 2 at my track

[Casper]

WOW :eek: You break the rear block that holds the rear arms on to the chassis TWICE a DAY!!!!!! All I can say to that is amazing! I will admit that I have broken the aluminium one but it was a VERY hard hit. There has got to be something else wrong with what is going on at your track for this to be the case. This car is not that weak. The XX had a weak rear end as the T-plate and the tranny case would break if you landed on the rear end wrong but to go through 2 blocks a DAY is something way beyond what I have heard about before. The only other thing you can get that would be stronger would be to run the alum block with the longer screws so you can put nuts on top and run an aluminum rear pin brace. Other then that you have me baffled.

[dgrobe2112]

you break rear pivots every 2 races.. you better check and make sure you got the right one.. somethings up.. for you to break 2 per weekend of races.. even the aluminum ones.. thats crazy.. i got the stock ones on and i am pretty rough.. we got a track layout that is tough right now.. and i still havent broke any parts on my buggy.. and thats landing my buggy on the rear alot... :confused:

[mooplea]

I broke a rear pivot block outside last year but raced a lont indoors now on carpet over winter and ive not broken one or seen one break and theyre mainly losi xxx's at my local club...

it must be a very very large jump and you are landing on the back end ??!?!? surely...

[mooplea]

actually just remembered i run the trinity aluminium pivot block now so that might be why ive not broken one... still its unusual to break them that often...

[mx416]

No, I was breaking pivot plates not blocks. I think its because the block doesn't flex so all the force is put on the plate. I race on an indoor carpet track. The plates usually break just in front of the pivot block

[Casper]

I am not sure if I have ever broken a plate on the XXX series of cars. I used to go through them a lot on the XX series. With the way the tranny is attached to the shock tower the rear end is MUCH stronger. You are breaking the tranny case at the same time I assume.

[mx416]

Acually I haven't broken any trannys yet. When the plate crackes the tranny will rock forward on the screw. In my XXT I have broken several trannys though. When we race stadium, it is alot harder on the cars than racing outdoors. You only have the thin layer of carpet between the buggy and the floor. The jumps also give a severe beating: they don't give all that much like dirt does.

Racing indoors is fun even though you spend a ton of money on parts (every truck/buggy racing DNFs an average of 1 heat per day). We race stock, on oval I run 82/31 gearing, Buggies are so fast on oval. They are only about half second a lap behind nascars.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Well, i was going through my checklist of things to order for my buggy, when i found that no one sells rpm front kickplates and rear motorguards that are yellow anymore! it's only the wide front bumper and such..i want the other two. so, is there any place i can get these? I was looking at stormer, since they have everything i need, but i may just ask my hobbyshop if they can get any, that is.if they are still made..

-A. Swift

[R/Cbum4life]

Get the blue spec ones, those are pretty cool.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, i placed my order on parts for my buggy..i brought home a new rear end, with some universals, to swap out those older sliders.i was taking hte car apart, and i stripped a screw! i don't have a dremel, so i can't file that down..how will i remove this screw? also, a while back, i drove my car under an overhang, and it snagged my antenna..no biggie, but i was looking it over today, adn the antenna is snapped in half..the wire is still good..but it snapped in half, at teh spot where i removed some of the antenna to create a whole to thread the wire through, to keep it away from the chassis..in any case, if this continues..with a new antenna, adn i say, roll my car, the antenna will break in that place again..should i get a new antenna, and wrapp tape around that area, before i drill hte whole, adn then thread teh antenna throught the hole, so i can still keep the wire off of the chassis, yet keep that area nice and strong? thanx for teh help..

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

i just thought of something..could i stuff the end of that screw with some sho goo, or something else, and then let teh sho goo, or whatever grip onto the head of teh driver? just wondering..i need this screw to be removed, so i can remove teh gearbox to change out the outdrive cups, adn the motor guard to a yellow one, and teh motor plate to a blue aluminum one..this is just the beginning of the hope ups i gots..hehe
-A. Swift

[Casper]

This might be a little involved but I guess you could glue the wrench to the screw using some CA and then use acetone to get the screw back off the wrench. I never thought of doing it that way but should work. Shoe Goo will not have the holding power. The only other way is to drill the screw and us an EZ out which is a tool you should be able to get at a hardware store that can back out a stripped screw but this is a little hard to do with a 4-40 screw.

As for the antenna tube. Unless you have had problems in the past with glitching just run your antenna the normal way through the tube. If you have issues with glitching then run the antenna the way you are doing it but runing it through the chassis should be just fine.

[chozometroid]

My transmission is slipping?
I've disassembled the transmission, and put a new thrust bearing in. Everything looks good (gears, bearings, etc).
Problem is, my spur gear will wind out when I punch it, so no burnouts. lol Actually, it slips way too much, so I lose quote a bit of acceleration as well.
Or, when both tires are held, the spur gear will spin. I've tightened the nut, but that isn't helping anything. I don't know what it could be.

Help please. ;P

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, first off, are your slipper pads in good shape? you may need new ones..try to flip them over, adn then reassemble the slipper..this may help..also, tighten that screw inside the lower outdrive cup..this may also help..

-A. Swift

[chozometroid]

The slipper pads seem fine. Plus, I can see the innermost slipper plate spinning, so the problem must be elsewhere.
I was thinking about tightening that screw in the outdrive cup.
How tight should it be?
Maxed?
When I reassembled, I wasn't sure, and didn't tighten it to the max.
That's probably it. ......I hope.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, you don't want it to be max, becuase then, you have a one-way in the rear..tighten it all the way, adn then back it out 2-3 turns..see if this helps..

-A. Swift

[chozometroid]

Well, before your reply above, I went ahead and tightened it down "all the way". I didn't try to destory the thing, but it's pretty tight. I may loosen it the slightest bit later.
Works better now, and still has differential action.
Thanks for getting me thinking.
That was one of the thing I suspected, but only after you replied and got me thinking, did I notice the easy way to tighten it. (take off wheel, pull off tie-rod end, pull out dogbone)

Thanks.
l8r

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, your welcome..it is easier to tighten it by just matching up that slot, with the head of that screw, and tighten it with a flat-head..

-A. Swift

[chozometroid]

I just pulled out the dogbone, put in a flathead, and tightened while I held the wheel on the other side.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

..you shouldn't have to pull out he dogbone..it's in an issue of rcca, but i don't remember what one..i'll try to find it..

-A. Swift

[chozometroid]

I thought I saw some "outdrive cup savers" before.
Anyone know about these?
I'd guess they help keep that slot from getting wore out, which seems to happen pretty quick.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, first off.. as far as your slipper slipping.. you may consider checking that your slipper is tight enough.. that means that you tighten the slipper screw all the way down.. and back i out 3 complete turns.. your slipper should slip before your diff..

also.. the sleeves you are talking about.. we got alot of people using them here.. me as well.. where you buy the molded composite outdrives (much lighter than the aluminum ones) and use titanuim sleeves.. with the sleeves.. the diff is still alot lighter than the way it is stock.. This makes the diff way light and of couse we all know.. less rotating mass, easier on parts and faster..

[clw]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
also.. the sleeves you are talking about.. we got alot of people using them here.. me as well.. where you buy the molded composite outdrives (much lighter than the aluminum ones) and use titanuim sleeves.. with the sleeves.. the diff is still alot lighter than the way it is stock.. This makes the diff way light and of couse we all know.. less rotating mass, easier on parts and faster..

Who makes 'em? Cost? etc., Can you tell me more?

[dgrobe2112]

The outdrives are a losi product.. the sleeves are Trinity and they are the cool blue color that alot of there parts come in.. here they sleeves cost 19.99 and the outdrives are 12 bucks.. so your looking at around 35 bux for the set up..

[Casper]

Trinity also sells titanium out drive savers that are the same price ($20) but are titanium colored if you do not want the blue ones. The savers do not make the oudrives last long but keeps them from breaking. They will still wear "dents" in them from normal use but will not snap with the savers. The entire "plastic" diff will weight as much as ONE Steel outdrive! It is a VERY good way to lighten up your tranny.

[losixxx213]

While the plastic outdrives save weight, they bind like the steel ones which makes them a little slower at accelating out of the turns and off the line. If you race at a small, tight track you might prefer the steel outdrives that will hook up faster.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, I finally got that screw out of the bottom of my gearbox half, so i could swap out the outdrives..only problem is, my gears ate themselves to pieces! What a mess! White dif gear and yellow idler gear teeth everywhere on teh inside! this, is what i think happened..

when driving my car, the c clip that hold the top, metal gear onto that shaft, broke off, or came loose. this c clip shot into the gears, and ate away at teh teeth of my differential gear, as well as my idler gear! the c-clip is bent up, and the gears are now un-repairable..

i went to my lhs today, adn checked in on my order..the guy said they were gonna start remembering my name....lol i went in, adn bought a new idler gear (it came with 2) and a new diff gear..i needed new c-clips, but they ran out..no biggie..i have a few spares from my associated FT TC3 kit..i used one of them, adn put my new drivetrain together..i wanna make sure i got this right..I origionally have the spec kit, with the sliders..I converted the sliders to universal cvds..with stell outdrives..
I got 2 A-3073 outdrive cups, 1 A-3072 Diff tubeand the A-3081 dog bones. I put them together, but i think i need the a-3078 diff screw, hardware, adn seal. I never got that, because the list someone here gave me a while back, wasn't complete..i think it was you, casper..no biggie, i got over it.. all i need to do, is go get it..i will in 2 weeks, when teh rest of my order comes in...So, do i need to take out one of those spacers around the differential gear, that the spec kit has? i'm talking about the ones that sit in the middle of the the differential gear itself..i have 2, but i kinda am lead to believe that i only need one...what to do...i haven't gotton the a-3078 parts set yet, adn maybe this will solve my problem..i can't shut both gear halfs, because there is too much space between the outdrive halfs..they make no contact with the diff gear, adn they won't go shut any further..i kinda think it's an extra spacer.maybe.i will wait tio see what the a-3078 parts will do for me..
later...

-A. Swift

any ideas about my situation?

[losixxx213]

You should order the aluminum top shaft for your buggy, it's all one piece(so no c-clip).

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

how much, and where! I think that could resolve my problem..i don't know what caused it, unless it popped off as i jumped the car, adn i origionally put it on careless ly..not like me..

-A. Swift

[Casper]

Doh my bad. I forgot you did not have a diff nut carrier. I have a bunch of these in my box so I do not think about them as extra parts of the diff since I go from the old outdrives to slidders. Sorry about that. As for these "spacers" you are talking about I am not sure what you really mean. There should be two bearings in the middle of the diff. One will go on the diff tube and in the middle of the diff gear and the other will fit inside the outdrive. Then you will put the screw with the foam washer the thrust assy in the outdrive without the diff tube and the washers and the diff nut on the side with the tube. Then when you screw the whole thing together you should be good to go. Like losixxx said the alum top shaft will be a good idea. The part number is A-9930 Aluminum Gear/Slipper Shaft (XX, XXX & XXX-T) $11.95. Anybody that carries losi parts should have one as they are standard parts on the XXXKE and XXXTMF kits. Follow the link below to see how to build your new diff. This is the MF instruction manual that is now on-line on team losi's web site. Bag D is the tranny with full instructions on how to build the diff. I do not know if you have all the tranny greases. I recommend losi silicone for the diff gear and AE black grease for the thrust assy but the losi white grease does a good job also.

http://www.teamlosi.com/Manuals/XXXTMF_index.htm

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Ok, I was looking at page 136 in my September issue of RCCa, adn I then took apart the front of my XXX..I wanna know how Matt's front axles are soo long? does he get them from the factory like that? I WANNA KNOW!!!

-A. Swift

[losixxx213]

Why does it matter? I'm sure you can find a longer cap head 4-40 screw somewhere if you look. Thats all it is.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, you sure seem happy..I was just wondering, because I thought it was over the legal limit of the width...

-A. Swift

[losixxx213]

sorry,but to answer your question, it doesn't make the front end wider and the axle aren't that much loger. All it does is insure that his wheel will not come off.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Oh, I see..where might I order such axles? my nuts aren't quite catching enough on the front end, adn the other day, a wheel came off!.not cool, because at the same time, it was over a jump, and the c-clip shot off of the aluminum top-shaft, adn trashed my idler gear and diff gear..I ordered new rear end, bl.al. outdrive savers, adn some new titanium turnbuckles, losi yellow motorguard, rpm ball cups, new lower spring cups, new phobia body, blue washers, motorplate, mini lock nuts, threaded shock collars,and I am switching my rear end from sliders, to cvds..I'll post pics when I get some...

-A. Swift

[losixxx213]

I don't have any part numbers for longer axles. I've never had the wheel fall off, yet. Go to your local hobby shop and take the screw with you and see if they hve anything thats longer. If they don't you can put loc-tite on them.

[Casper]

A. Swift-- The alum top shaft is one piece so there is no "c" clip. That is the steel top shaft. I would run the alum one just so this will never happen again. The longer screws in the front axles should not affect the overall width of the car as long as the screws are not wider then the tires. Most big races do not check width anymore anyway. As long as your are using off the shelf parts for the car you are legal. Even if the axles stick out too far it will not give a performance advantage and I do not think anyone would care even at a big race.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

thanks casper..I finally got my order..I will post pics soon..this car looks soo much better...lots of new parts, but hey, it looks good..I jsut need to find a way to get longer screws..the front axles are just not long enough..I fear the wheel will come off like it did before..I have to paint my new body, adn I have to make some stickers, since my phobia body didn't come with any..that makes me mad..

-A. Swift

[clw]

Is there a Losi "Parts Express" similar to the way Tower does most other brands?

Tower used to carry Losi parts and cars, what happened in the RC world to change that?

[Casper]

losi was bought by horizon hobbies. Because they are a distributer companies that did not get things from horizon stopped carrying losi parts. It is unfortunate but luckly there losi parts are not too hard to get ahold of still. The best online place other then www.horizonhobby.com is www.stormerhobbies.com

[clw]

Thanx Casper.

Still debating the Keyence ESC. Have there been any reviews of these products? Besides yours of course!

[Casper]

The Feb '02 issue of R/C Car magazine reviewed the Keyence speedo.

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/esc_guide2.asp

is a review of there reversing speedo's not a lot of info though.

The R/C review is pretty indepth though if you can find that issue. I have it and if you really want me to I could probably scan it for you. I will have to find the issue first. If you do get a keyence DO NOT REPLACE THE WIRE! The stuff you get looks thin and cheap because it is 16 gauge wire but they have more strands of wire in their 16 gauge then most ALL 12 gauge wire you can buy. Even though it looks thin it works GREAT. They sell that wire for $8.00 for 4 feet to give you an idea of what kind of wire it is.

[clw]

I slept through electrical theory! Is it the sum of the circumference of the total strand count that's important, not the gauge? I kinda remember that the high frequency info is at the edge of the strand and the amps are in the middle, or something like that. What's important in this application?

[Casper]

I am not an expert but I was always told that electricity travles on the outside of the wire. So more stands is better. Also smaller dia wire will pack tighter in the same area so you get more wire in a smaller area so you should have more wire to have amps go through the middle if that is the case. My point is bigger is not always better. The stock wire works GREAT and will carry all the load you need with VERY minimal resistance.

[clw]

I made almost the same comment (along the edge) to a power company employee once and he said with a chuckle they use a very large strand, like several inches I think, in the distribution network. Maybe because it's a zillion volts and we're only dealing with 7. Don't know! Heck, maybe it would melt smaller strands.

[Casper]

There power is 3 phase and like you said is a zillion volts but the amps are really low. We have low voltage and relativly high amps. Their power lines are also under really high tension which requires strength in the cables. Regardless of how you look at it the stock keyence wire works well.

[ole]

Hi Guys. Do i really need a high torque / speed servo for my xxx buggy or will the standard 3003 servo work just fine? Any recommendations?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I'm currently running the S3003 servo in both my xxx buggy, adn my FT tc3..I have no problems with it..

-A. Swift

[Casper]

Standard servos will get the job done. The reason everyone wants a faster servo is you will increase your reaction time to correct a squirly car or get through "S" sections easier. It is not really neccessary. I have seen standard servo's in 1/8th scale cars. Now they did not work very well but they did work. I ran an Airtronics 94737 in my buggy for many years that only had .15 trans. speed and 57 oz of torque. It worked great. I have felt an inprovment going to faster stronger servo's. I am not sure my lap time decreased but I gained more control.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i am a true beleiver in the metal gear servos, and high speed servos.. i used to have the standard servos.. and depending on what kind of track you run.. they will not work.. for onroad.. they will be fine.. but if your gonna run offroad.. i highly reccomend getting a metal gear servo.. i had 5 futaba 3003 servos.. and broke 4 of them in one weekend, basically stripping the gears.. so now all i run is metal gear servos.. cuz nothing is worse than running good in the race, or main.. and breaking a steering servo..

[Sean Doherty]

ole like they say you get what u pay for i had those cheapo standared sevos when i just started racing damn things broke every time i tapped the pipe went to a jr 8450 .08 at 98oz digital servo in both my xxx ke and xxxt mf paid $115 each for them had one for a year and a half still works like new im not saying u should spend $115 on a servo but u should def get a metal gear one if u think about it ur buying a standard servo for like $12 u break 5 of them that adds up to $60 and with $60 u can buy a metal gear one that will last:D

[dgrobe2112]

Or hang around at your local track.. i have come up on some great deals.. I got (2) HS 925mg servo's with .08 speed.. i spent a total of 35 bux for both.. i spent 15 on one last weekend.. and 20 one the other almost a year ago.. the one i bought a year ago.. still fast and still good.. much better than the slow a$$ standard ones.. you can get a HS625mg for i think around 55 bux and that has .15 speed.. and metal gear as well..

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

ok..I have a big problem..I was driving my car, and whenever I punched tehr throttle, it made a sound, like a gear stripping sound..I tore it apart, adn the gears are fine..i thought it may have been the c-clip again, but it wasn't..I have no idea what it is..please help...also, the aluminum top shaft is slightly bent, adn the spur gear looks to be warped..is this a problem..I was gonna get a new one piece top shaft, when I got the money, so, yeah..

-A. Swift

[Casper]

I am not sure what that could be. My best guess would to be sure and see that the inner slipper pad is not hitting one of the tranny screws. I have had this happen to me in the past. The only other thing I can think of is possibly a blown bearing or something in your drive axles that might be hitting like a pin that is falling out and hitting an arm or something like that.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

ok. I'm gonna take it out to a park tonight, and break in the new rear end..I tightened the diff almost all the way, so there was no play at all, adn it seemes to have fixed..i will keep you posted..later..

-A. Swift

[R/C_12]

I think I remember you saying you race at SoCal speedway? If so, do you race anywhere else such as LPRP? The reason I ask is because LPRP is close to me, but I dont think electric is big there because it seems to be more of a nitro ruled track...

I would go to SoCal, but this would be my first time on a track and SoCal seems like there's a lot of fast people. So maybe I would be in the way :o

Also..Can you tell me what you think of this charger? I will upgrade later when my driving skills improve, but will this do the job on my 2000's?? here it is: HERE (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN4046)

[wcoyote_racer]

If you are going to race on a regular basis you want a charger that does at least 5 Amps. The one R/C_12 is suggesting would be ok for regular running, but only goes to 4 Amps. I know that price may be a deciding factor in the choice. But remember when it comes to a charger you will want one that you can race with if you want too. Otherwise you will have to upgrade when you get seriously racing.
I've seen alot of people using the Reedy Quasar Pro simply because it is AC/DC and goes up to 6 Amps and is easy to use. And at $169, it will save you some major money when you do decide to race. One thing to remember is this the higher the Amps the more power your batteries will have. So if you are charging at 4 Amps, the guy who is charging at 5 Amps will always have more battery output than you. If you don't like the $169 price tag that most places sell it for, check Ebay. You may get it for $100-$130.

[Casper]

R/C_12-- Yeah I race at So Cal most of time. That charger will work but is not the best thing out there. If you do not have the money then get a Super brain. They are a little less money but will do all the same stuff. If you can find a way get a better charger like wcoyote_racer said. Chargers last a long time and a good one will grow with you. Chargers are good investments. I do race out at LPRP for Gas on occation. I have seen electrics on the track but not enough to race. They usually only have enough for gas racing. If you run at So Cal and are afraid of not being fast enough, run the intermediate class. If you win in that class step up to Sportsman! Just remember to have fun!:)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

so, what pinion gear do you guys recommend? I was driving my XXX buggy earlier (WOW! what a difference glued tires make-I rolled it lol!) and, when I got into the street, me car started to chig along, adn it just coasted, like I blew a clutch..I squeezed the trigger, adn nothing happened..I ran in front of a garbage truck, to recover it, and I realized that the pinion gear had shot off of the motor..so, since the set screw doesn't tighten really, I thought it'd be time to get a new pinion gear..besides, I have a 22, adn a 30 pitch gears, but i don't think they are the right gears..so, what pinion do you guys recommend..I have a trinity 19 turn spec modified chameleon motor..also, since these electronics share with my FT TC3, I wanna know if the gear will be a good ratio for the car too..perhaps some of you own this car as well? Thanx for the help!

-A. Swift

[dgrobe2112]

I think that the 19tooth pinion is a good starting point.. may be alittle high gear.. you could go up 1 or 2 teeth for speed.. but depends on the track you are running.. 78 tooth spur is good.. i think that is the white gear.. not sure though.. havent learned my colors yet.. a good pitch to run is 48 pitch gears..

Cant help you on the car though..

[dreamer_1uk]

Hi all,

I just bought a new XXXKE after running AE FT B3 for a while. Now, my first question is on the XXX, what differences does it make when lengthening/shorting and using the different holes the front camber links. On the B3's, usually, a general rule of thumb is that the short the link, the more stable it is and the longer link gives you more traction. Is this the same for the XXX?

Dale.

[dgrobe2112]

Dale, here is a good website to check out.. lot of good info..

http://home.att.net/~casper04/Home.htm

[dreamer_1uk]

Hi,

Thanks, and the answers there are good and what I tought they were. Still, a great site for newbie or for someone is still learning.

Thanks again,

Dale.

[Casper]

I would start gearing a 19 spec motor around 21-22/82. I like the yellow 82 spur because you can get smaller pinons on it for lower turn mod motors. The 78 (white) is too small and the motor will not move forward enough to use the smaller pinons.

[R/C_12]

Casper: What pinion do you run at socal for stock? the manual says 27t but just wanted to make sure.

thanks in advance...

[Casper]

R/C_12-- Here is my gear chart that I use. I normally run Core/Hellfire stock motors geared at 22/82. If you run a different motor here is what I gear them at. Gear the new monster stock the same as the GM3.

http://home.att.net/~casper04/Info_Sheets.htm

[aeb3man_44]

hey guys, whats the best pinion gear to use with a p2k2 in the xxx?

thanks

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, i've reset the balance in my car, and i've found that the front end likes to pitch over..I need more weight in teh rear..so, i also wanted to know if i could get all metal gears for the gearbox..then, I wouldn't have a problem..one-piece topshaft, adn etc..I'm gettign my bro into this hobby..once he gets a job, he will buy a team losi ..xxxt mf edition most likely..so, ttyl..btw, casper, i wanna know more about hacker's car. I have modelled my car around it, because it's soo much easier to see on the trakc..what mods does he have?

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

hey aebman, i would go with a 22..it seems to suit the happy medium for torque, and speed..

-A. Swift

[Casper]

Hacker runs a XXXKE with alum shock colors, alum rear pivot block, alum front bulkhead, trinity alum 0 deg rear hubs, KO mars radio, Airtronics 757 servo, Keyence V Zero extreme ESC, Core stock motor, RPM gear cover and ball ends. I think that about covers it. Basically most of the same things I run.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

..and same here..I have different electronics, but hey, I still win..I just glued my radio up..that pencil thing is a good idea..I like it a lot..I will help my bro out.gladely..he doesn't want the top of the line stuff, but hey, he won't be racing, so I guess I can help him out..

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

well, i have assembled my final order for my buggy..graphite stuff, titanium turnbuckles, etc..I wanna know what kind of bearings I should get, adn of what? I want to convert the whole car to bearings, but I have the spec kit..the bearings are the only part i have yet to upgrade..so, pleaes help me!

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

so, if anyone could help me, that would be great..also, feel free to instant message me..I am more than willing to help you in any way..thanx..

-A. Swift

[Casper]

A. Swift-- There is a guy who sells bearing upgrades for the XXX cars on ebay. They are resonably priced and high quality bearings.

search ebay for Item # 3123536254

Dynamite sells good bearing kits also. Losi does not sell the whole set if I remember correctly but does sell all the bearings in packs of 2-4 bearings a bag. It will be cheaper to get the whole set through dynamite or that ebay auction then through losi indivdual bearings.

Also that ebay auction tells you the bearing sizes you need.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

thanks a bunch casper..I'll look into it after i drop off my bro at his friends house..

-A. Swift

[crono man]

real newbie question here guys...

but how do you gear the xxx with a 82T spur for a 27t stock motor(green machine 3, pk2 etc)

thanks:)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I recommend you run it with a 48 pitch 23t pinion gear..gives the biggest powerband too..

-A. Swift

[Casper]

GM3 start at 21/82 P2K2 start at 22/82 I have a complete gear chart at:

http://home.att.net/~casper04/Gear_Chart.htm

[crono man]

thanks guys!!

cool chart there casper really useful!!

actually im going to use the new use novak bl motor they say to geared like a stock motor and thanks to your chart now i know which range of pinions i should use(21-23)

:)

[BadSign]

I've put my XXX through four nights of racing and last night the diff sounded and felt terrible. I pulled it out for inspection and discovered the diff gear had a ton of little black crud inside it. I know from pan cars this wasn't good, but where is it coming from and what can I do to stop it? I'm thinking it came frome the outdrives or gearbox casing possibly, but I'm not sure. I'm definately replacing the diff gear, balls and rings. The bearings are all fine.

[dgrobe2112]

Badsign.. the crud.. you are seeing.. is the diff grease.. of course mixed with metal shavings from your diff balls and diff rings.. You could try to loosen your diff a little.. not make it really tight.. but when you race regularly you will need to take care of the diff and take it apart and clean it.. I usually clean my diff once a month just to know it is operating correctly and nothing is majorly messed up in there.. as far as keeping the grit out of the diff.. makesure your case is all tight.. and you got a good setting on all your parts..

[clw]

Is there a "rule of thumb" for the front inner camber link location and the # of gold washers? Example: if it's in the middle position (#2) with 2 washers is that similar to the inner position with 0 washers. Or to look at it from another way if it's in #2 with no washers and you'd like it to be a little more aggressive you would move the inner stud to #3 (outside) and use how many washers? Moving the mount inward calms the response as does adding washers, just looking for the relationship.
Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Here is a good website for info like that.. i dont know a lick of what happens when you move your shock tower in or out.. or whatever.. but try this site..

http://home.att.net/~casper04/Home.htm

[TheRealDudeman]

Anyone who would like to sponsor me for a new body for my XXX that would be cool. I trashed mine earlier today. You can even paint it whatever way you want and put any stickers you want on it.

[losixxx213]

when you move the shock out on the tower it stiffens the car w/o changing springs, when you move it in on the shock tower it loosens it without changing springs.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Has anyone tried trinity BK pitch pinions and spurs for their xxx cars.

Aussie.

[dgrobe2112]

Bk pitch is nice.. but you also need to make sure that your LHS will stock them.. cuz it sucks when you strip a spur and there are no more left.. or they are out..

[JEEL]

Has anyone RACED, not bashed, against the B4's yet? A flood of people who raced trucks (yes, even XXXT owners...SAD!) at my track are getting B4's to race in the buggy class. I currently race my Kinwald...I am not giving it up either!

I am just curious as to whether the B4 is capable of even matching the performance of the XXX or worse. able to outperform my XXX?

I do not want to be like all of those B3 guys whom I raced against, where their B3's were somewhat inferior and disadvantaged right out of the gate compared to the XXX's.

Thanks for the replies.

[LasagnaCat]

where their B3's were somewhat inferior and disadvantaged right out of the gate compared to the XXX's

Just curious to know why you think that the B3's were in any way inferior to the Losi's...? You can't go by (national) race results and say that Losi is better because they've won more lately... they emply a larger stable of top level drivers who are going to win with almost anything you give them. Both cars handle slightly differently (as different cars should) but imho either car is more than capable of running up front when set up properly and being driven by a skilled driver. Remember that a LOT of people that "defect" to the newest latest vehicle just do so either out of boredom and to try something new or just to have the newest shiniest toy like everyone else. At our local track(s) it's always the same thing.. whenever a new car comes out and wins everyone credits the car.. 9 times out of 10 the guys driving the new car are the same guys that were going just as fast with the 'old' cars or their other cars. Wait until the Team (and Factory Team, and... and...) versions of the B4 come out... a lot of the same people that buy and like the regular B4 now will immediately sell them and buy the new kits.. only to proclaim how much superior (translates to "I paid more") the fancy kits are to the regular version. When the next new Losi comes out, those same people will jump back on the other bandwagon and the cycle will (endlessly) repeat itself...

[CraigS]

Howdy all. I just became the proud daddy of a new-to-me XXX off ebay. Here is the description as it was listed:

Losi xxx spec buggy forsale. In mint condition. Comes with new only ran 5 times novak fusion speed control!!!! P2K2 pro stock motor with 19 and 21 tooth pinion gear, extra springs, Losi x-2000 ( red compound ), Losi Wide ( red compound ) on blue rims, Futaba 2PHKA am 2 channel ( Brand New). Comes with a blue and black faded body in good condition.

First, is this a good deal for $100 + shipping?? I think it is, but I would like some other opinions.

Second, is the spec model able to be upgraded to have all the same parts as the Kinwald Edition? I checked Losi's website, but it doesn't give a real clear answer. I don't necessarily want to get all the upgrades, I'm just wondering if there is something fundamentally different between them besides all the graphite.

Thanks!

[LasagnaCat]

The price is decent for what you got, you did fine there. As far as upgrading it, you *can* upgrade it to Kinwald specs but to do so you'd spend more than you would on an actual Kinwald. If you already have other electronics you could sell all the pieces you got with this individually and you'd make enough of a profit to (easily) get a Kinwald. If you're going to keep everything and run it as-is, you'll still do fine with it. If the original owner didn't replace the bushings with bearings that should be your first (and the only 'necessary') move - look on eBay and you can get entire sealed bearing kits for $10-20 shipped. The threaded shock bodies are a nice upgrade, but could wait. The Trinity aluminum pivot blocks are a popular item (especially the rear, no clue why but some people seem to break a LOT of those) too. The Kinwald has a lightweight topshaft and the steel outdrives and cvd's, but the molded outdrives and sliders you have will work fine unless you plan on challenging Kinwald anytime soon. Don't worry about not having the graphite parts, the biggest "advantages" of the graphite are that it's a bit lighter and it doesn't flex as much. The weight difference isn't that big of a problem and the lack of flexing just means that you break more parts in the long run *because* there's no give... your 'regular' parts are (again) fine and cheaper to boot.

[CraigS]

That's exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks LasagnaCat.

Now, maybe this question doesn't belong here, but I'm going to ask it anyway....

What do you guys think of the Evader BX? It looks like a good buggy. It includes full bearings, nice shocks, a decent ESC and stock motor. I want to know if these cars are competitive. I really don't want to hear from any of the "everyone besides Losi and AE sucks!" people. I want some details. If it is worse, why is it? I don't see why it wouldn't be just as competitive if the same motor and ESC were used. Any thoughts?

[losixxx213]

The evader bx could be a strong runner with the right electronics and setup. however, the only problem I could see is parts breakage(but that happens with all cars), also I hear the transmission gears aren't that strong in the st and they both have the same transmission so mod class racing might be a problem. It is based off of the xx, but it could win a few races at the club level.

[mdewitt71]

I own a XXX Spec with some upgrades. I am running a 10 Turn Doulble trinity with F1 Pro reverse ESC.

My Army buddy bought a BX, upgraded the Motor and its a real runner.
The shocks are better than the ones my my XXX (my opinion) and tune really well.

[TheRealDudeman]

Can everyone please post cool pictures of their xxx's im thinking about doing a web site.

[TheRealDudeman]

New XXX forum called XXX Racing (http://com1.akheva.com/bxxxracing) where you can discuss your XXX every thing from tips to setups theres even a XXXT section.

[dgrobe2112]

Now you just gotta get some traffic..

[TheRealDudeman]

where did everyone go. Dont tell me you went and got B4's

[LasagnaCat]

To some degree there's not a whole lot that needs to be said about a car that's been out this long... Most of what will come up will be from new owners or converts. When you factor in that we're just now coming out of (for most of the country) the period that's after Christmas but before it gets nice enough to run offroad/outside.. interest will just decline. Summer is coming, it'll pick up again.

[Lapster]

I have a question....... I have already ordered a B4....... but it has never come and they never charged the credit card. So.... I am wondering when will team losi release a XXXX. I dont want to get the XXX KE then have it be obsolete.

[losixxx213]

Go ahead and order a xxxke, it's a great car. I don't know how long it'll be before we see a xxxx, but I know that there are still guy that race a xx and win and those are supposed to be obsolete.

[dgrobe2112]

Lapster.. we all know that Losi is king when it comes to offroad.. now.. AE came out with its wonderful B4.. which, has been in the works forever.. the Losi XXX and XXXKE are the top of the line.. most of the people who are getting B4 are your really good drivers, who want to compare the 2.. The B4 is just about prolly 75-90% the same as the XXX.. Losi will come out with a XXXX we all know that.. but im sure they are not in a big hurry.. cuz not alot of people are impressed with the B4.. yeah.. its nice.. but they really havent done much to impress me.. basically, the main difference is the front shock tower.. and thats it.. So i personally, would want to get the XXXKE.. its still the better of the 2.. who knows maybe Losi will release a new shock tower design.. since thats the only main difference in the 2..

[Casper]

I will add my 2 cents to the B4 topic and leave it at this. The B4 is a great car. They are showing well at the club and national levels and appear to be strong platforms. They do need a little front end work as that seems to be the weak point in the car but a little work from AE should fix this. The car will be strong. As far as the B3 goes. It was a capable car but hard to drive. It can be fast but it was hard to be consistant with. The B4 should be a better car in those regards. The XXX is not to be outdone though. I think the B4 just closed the gap or eliminated it. The XXX will be around for a while longer. It looks that right now Losi is concentrating on a XXX-NS. Yes that is right a nitro sedan based off the XXX-S. With that in mind and the fact that the B4 is not significantly better I think it will have another couple of years before losi replaces it. One last comment on the B3 inferiority is that if you look at the sportsman results of just about EVERY major race for the last 2 years XXX dominated these classes. These are unpaid drivers who choose which cars they drive. The XXX just seemed to be the better car for the "average" driver which is why I felt it was a better car. The B4 will be a car to watch out for that is for sure.

[dgrobe2112]

I totally agree on this matter with you Casper.. its not neccesarily what the pro's drive that makes a better car.. its the driver as well.. any good driver can take a buggy or truck and win with it.. we all saw this when the XX4 beat the XXX4 in its debute.. now, you got pro drivers that are sponsored by AE and are great drivers.. that can take a B4 and make it a winner.. but like casper said.. the unsponsored drivers.. are choosing the XXX cuz of ease of setup and drivability..

For instance.. at our local track.. the guy that wins all the time.. used to drive Losi everything.. then all of a sudden switched to Associated to a B3 and T3.. and he still won with them.. not sayin the cars are bad.. but way outdated.. he wins with both Losi and Associated.. so when you go to pro races.. any mistake made by Kinwald or Francis.. can result in a loss.. so we will see what happens at the next big event..

Now, where can i go to get info, and results and when and where the races are held??

Thanks

[Casper]

Which big races? Losi covered the losi champs recently. Look at the results there. 6 B4's in the main. For that track in Fl that is pretty impressive. Also look at losi's site for the results from the Catcus. Again a track that used to be dominated by losi cars. 4 B4's and the win there. Most big races are covered in the magainzes and losi does a pretty good job with the larger ones they sponsor.

[cabbynate]

What battery bars are you guys using on the GP3300's that you use in your XXX's? Deans are to wide.
Thanks.

[AussieSam]

Hi Guys,

When are you going to learn that AE and Losi both make excellent cars. The B3 is an excellent car so tough and race-ready, maybe a little dated but still very capable. The XXX is probably a little better, smoother to drive but this is due to the fact that it is a newer design. Now the B4 should be at least as good as the XXX if not better and definetly a shade better than the B3. Pick which car you like and drive it, be proud that America has the two best cars, pointless to argue any other way. The old B3 better than XXX better than B4 is getting old. I am an Australian and I let the track do my talking although its not saying much lately.

Regards,

Aussie.

[LasagnaCat]

I completely agree... too many people are just insecure with this stuff and afraid that it reflects poorly on them as a person if they think they've chosen an 'inferior' model. There *are* very minor differences between the models, as there should be with two separate items - Coke is NOT Pepsi, nor should it try to be (remember the 'new Coke' aka Cokesi disaster? lol) but the vast majority of people I see obsessing over the two brands of car aren't skilled or knowledgeable enough to both know that either one will run great if setup and driven correctly or to be able to physically tell the differences when driving them anyway. The newest model coming out in the AE/Losi 'battle' is always going to get more attention, as it should - this should be obvious when you're dealing with two companies that put out such a high level of product. If it's not as good, people will eventually figure that out and return to the other brand. If it is better, then the other companies will try and play catch up... this is all GOOD for us and helps advance the hobby.

[dgrobe2112]

Lasagna, totally agree, i stated in my first post, that its not the car that makes the difference.. its the driver mainly, the heat of cometition between AE and Losi, does good for you and me and the hobby, cuz we are always getting newer and better designs from both..

[Crashinj]

I'm getting a Losi XXX Graphic Kinwald Edition buggy, JR radio, couple of motors, and ESC for $200. I'd like to know what you guys think of the car? And now to learn as much as I can on this car. This old man is returning to RC cars after about a 12 year or so absence.

CrashinJ

[Casper]

Sounds like a decent deal to me. The XXX is a great car. You will like it!

[dgrobe2112]

CrashinJ, welcome back.. and you have come to the right place for questions and answers.. I highly reccommend setting your RCcontrolzone settings to email you when there are responses here.. i do, i get an email telling me there has been a reply.. even though i didnt ask any questions, someone may have asked a question i havent thought of..

The Kinwald buggy, is great.. easily tunable.. light and fast.. andhandles great with the stock setup.. i would start there.. and work from there..

[dreamer_1uk]

Hi Guys,

I just bought my Losi XXX KE new after switching from AE and I am having problems with trying to find a good gear ratio for stock. My motors just keep getting too hot and they ran cool in the B3. What ratios are you guys running with what motors.

Thanks,

Dale.

[Casper]

Try this link

http://home.att.net/~casper04/Gear_Chart.htm

[clw]

Casper:
Have you tried the new Revenge Trinity stock motor? It sounds like a screamer, I thought the guy had a mod! Have you determined the best gearing in either/both the XXX and XXX-T?

[dgrobe2112]

With a revenge of the monster Pro (very fast and nice motor) you want to gear down 2-3 teeth, or at least that has been my experience.. i would try to run the same gear as the guy with the P2K2 pro, and i woudl walk away from him.. but, of course my motor was very hot after.. So after 4 races of running i ended up gearing down 3 teeth and was still just as fast out of the turn and on the straight.. So on my XXXT i am running a 15/86 and thats on a medium track.. and when they changed the track layout to have alot of high speed sections.. i bumped up to a 16 and 17.. Its all about seeing what works at your track.. But you will definitly have to run 2-3 teeth lower than your P2K motors and MVP motor

Also, gear ratios are different in a B3 and XXX.. you will be able to run prolly around the same or 1 tooth lower than you would in your B3..

[Casper]

clw-- I would gear that motor the same as the GM3. I have not tried one of those motors yet though. They seem to be good but I have been staying away from epic motors. I have lost too many magnets out of those to be comfortable running them for the time being. (P2K2 cans were loosing there magnets if you wanted to know.)

[crono man]

any of you guys ever tried 21/78 gear combo?..
i think im getting to much backlash!

[dgrobe2112]

If your getting too much backlash.. your mess is not tight enough.. also.. i think that maybe the 21 will not reach any further to get to the spur gear.. what you will have to do is gett a bigger spur and reconfigure your gear ratio for the bigger spur..

[clw]

3 teeth may be a good idea! One of the guys dropped down one for safety (or so he thought) and still it got smoking HOT! Thanks for the XXX-T gearing as the motor is actually going in the boy's truck. Of course I'll have to try it in one of the buggies, too.

Thanks!

[clw]

Say, what's the sizes for A and B shock limiters mentioned sometimes in setups?

[crono man]

are MIP stainless steel bj-ball ends worth it?(looking to eliminate the slack in the suspension)

[JohnSheridan]

Guys whats the cheapest i can pay for XXX KE?? and who from?

Thanks..

[cabbynate]

crono man,
If you can't get your pinion to fit you can use a Dermel tool with a grinding bit to make the slot bigger so your motor can move farther forward. Also staniless steel ball studs are very strong indeed.

[crono man]

some more questions:)

i have the original xxx buggy(not the ke)and was wondering if i should change my setup to match the "kinwald standard setup" found losi website?

[crono man]

one more question

is the trinity rear machined pivot block worth it?
will it make the rear end more durable?

[Casper]

If I remember right Ultimate hobbies has the KE kit for 209.95 You can contact them through www.ulitmatehobbies.com.
I am not sure you can do better then that unless you can find a good deal on ebay.

The alum rear pivot block is worth it to me. I have even broke one of those before! With the longer screws and the backing nuts losi recommends the plastic ones holds up a lot better then originally installed but I think the alum block is worth it.

As far as setup changes go. I would use the KE as a good starting point and adjust the setup from there.

Also crono a good tip for eliminating slop in the ball studs it to up old (or new if you need to) shock o-rings on the ball studs before you put the cups on. The o-rings will help tighten up the car. Replacing the ball cups is cheap but a pain but also solves usually solves the problem. If new cups do not fit tight you need new ball studs. They will wear out over time also.

[crono man]

Originally posted by Casper
If I remember right Ultimate hobbies has the KE kit for 209.95 You can contact them through www.ulitmatehobbies.com.
I am not sure you can do better then that unless you can find a good deal on ebay.

The alum rear pivot block is worth it to me. I have even broke one of those before! With the longer screws and the backing nuts losi recommends the plastic ones holds up a lot better then originally installed but I think the alum block is worth it.

As far as setup changes go. I would use the KE as a good starting point and adjust the setup from there.

Also crono a good tip for eliminating slop in the ball studs it to up old (or new if you need to) shock o-rings on the ball studs before you put the cups on. The o-rings will help tighten up the car. Replacing the ball cups is cheap but a pain but also solves usually solves the problem. If new cups do not fit tight you need new ball studs. They will wear out over time also.

sorry just to be sure were taking about the same thing:)

so if use the rear machined pivot block AND the long screws with nuts trick,i would have a super heavy duty rear end! :D

[Casper]

Yeah I guess you can say that. IF you use locktite in the alum block you do not need the longer screws with nuts. I do use the longer screws with nuts on my alum block though!

[crono man]

thanks for the info:)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

WOW!!! It's been FOREVER since I posted anywhere here, on this board..so, CraigS, I hear that you have bought a Spec kit? Very solid car..I bought one, before the XXXKE was in our stores..I must say, that for 100 dollars, you got a good deal..especially with al of those electronics..I'm trying to think here..is that radio AM? I think it isd, and it may be the first upgrade you'd wanna make. I have hopped up my Spec, so it is no longer recognizable as a spec! graphite everything, yellow rpm ball cups, lunsford ti turnbuckles, x-2000 rears, and wide ribed fronts, on yellow rims, and blue aluminum everythig..I wanted it to look as good as it drove..I have other upgrades, but I just got up, and I can't remember them all..I even bought the new body (phobia) for it! If you have any questions, or need ANY help, I would love to talk to you online, or help you in any way. Feel free to use any of the methods below..

Anthony.Swift@attbi.com

IM name: Swifty1638

-A. Swift

It feels good to be back! :p

[CraigS]

Thanks Anthony! I just have to get a free weekend to go race now. What motor are you using in yours? I have a P2K2Pro and it is too slow. Now I got the motor used so I don't know if there's a problem with it. I've also got an Evader BX and it blows away the XXX with it's stock motor. Should this happen? It's the Fantom 19T motor, but I wouldn't think it blow away my XXX with a P2K2. So, I need a recommendation on a new motor. Thanks.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Well, I use the trinity 19-turn spec modified Chameleon motor, with a 23 tooth 48 pitch pinion gear..it seems to suit my needs just fine, on the track I made..I recommend this motor..it does seem weird that the evader is doign that..did you upgrade your bushings to bearings? the tranny comes with bearings, but the rest of the drivetrain seems a little sloppy..and, also upgrade your universls, to dogbones, either liek the ones the reg. kit uses, or the mip cvd's that the ke uses..that will help on the get-up-and-go part..lol any other questions?

-A. Swift

"I've never lost a race..I only came up a little short, when time ran out..."

[Casper]

A 19T motor should beat a stock motor! The 19T probably has bearing too right? I would not worry too much about that. You may need new brushes and a to cut the comm on the stock motor though. Most cars go the same in a straight line assuming gearing is similar it is when you have to jump and turn that the two cars will differentiate themselves!

As far as the slidders go. They will give you faster acceleration then a steel diff with steel bones! If you went to a composite diff which alum bones that is another thing! I currently race my KE with slidders if that makes a difference to anyone! :)

[crono man]

my local track has some HUGE jumps and sometimes even thou i use the brake in the air technic i land hard on the transmission rear end.
i have broken 2 trans case so far(they break were the 2 bottom flat head screws hold the tranny from the bottom of the chassis)and was wondering if theres anything i can do or buy that will make the tranny tuffer?

(i was thinking about a graphite tranny case but i dont know if losi makes them or if they would be tuffer then the stock ones)

this problem has really got me stumped any suggestion would be welcomed:)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I am not sure if this would help, but it is an idea..

Get yourself a Trinity Blue aluminum heavy duty rear pivot block. I think that by this purchase, you will make the rear end a little more stiff, adn thus increasing the ridgity of the tranny, because the tranny rests inside the pivot block. jsut an idea..

-A. Swift

"Iv'e never lost a race..I've only been a little behind, when time ran out.."

[rcmania67]

I saw this truck on sale. I was wondering, is this a good truck? I owe XXX-S & TC3. Want to get a truck.

Can this truck go fast? outside bashing. What is the best gearing for a mod?

thanks

[mooplea]

i have the trinity alloy block, and it doesnt help the tranny case being broken in heavy rear end landings... stick some lead in the front.. i always have 25g, sometimes 50g, might help....

do many people use plastic slotted chassis ? i just replaced my graphite chassis with a plastic slotted (for the cells) one, and it does seem better... bit more forgiving maybe..

[crono man]

for rough tracks is it better to remove the rear shims under the rear pivot block?

[Got Speed]

I accidentaly came across this XXX on ebay today # 3136440223
I don't have a lot of money but I was thinking of adding it to my Losi collection alongside my XXX-NT. Is this a decent deal. For $50 even without the tires would that be decent. Would I regret getting this if I wanted to race?

[re-inferno]

Hi!

I've bend the alluminium slipper, that came with my XXXKE and now I want to try the standard steel slipper & top gear.

according to the exploded views from losi, all I need would be A-3060 (except for the clip & pin)

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/XXX-Slipper.jpg

After 2 months of waiting, the German distributor GM was finally willing to send me A-3060 "XX" and thats what I got:

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/XX-Slipper.jpg

Contacting them about the matter - they claim, thats the newest part sent directly by Losi two weeks ago. (and they barely care about their customers, wanting me to contact Losi directly as GM themselves do not really know what they're selling in fact - however losi didn't reply yet, and calling them from Austria would be a bit expensive I guess ;) )

So, what do you think?
Did anyone buy the steel slipper, or has anyone the XXX (not KE) manual, where they show the steps of assembly?

Because in the online parts list of the XXX, there is an A-3077 which says it's top gear an idler shaft.
However, the exploded view of the XXX shows, that an A-3077 is never used, top gear is part of A-3060 an the idler shaft is A-3075.

further "research" shows, that A-3077 is/was used for the 2,61 transmission of the XX-Truck!

So does A-3077 still fit the 2,43 trans. of the XXX? (might have changed the idler)

I'm really desperated, with no support from GM and (at time) no reply from Losi and (till now) 2 months no dirt action and races to retire :(

I hope someone can help me out, telling me the part number of the steeltop gear that fits the XXX or that there is an A-3060"XXX" which contains the full slippershaft and its GM's fault.

PS: please excuse for the bad english ;)

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Special/BL/Losi_BLconverted_heck.jpg :D

[blownsi]

what kind of gearing are you running?

I have a XXXKE with 19/82 and a SGP12T and the acceleration is awful should I try a 17pinion or lower or what.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Say, can anyone tell me what the front axle stubs are made of? Is it aluminum? I jsut wanted to know, becuase I was bored, and my batteries are getting dumped at the moment, before a recharge, so I wanted to know if I could try that anodizing thing that they tried in the xtreme rc cars, issue74 january 2002. Anyone try this? they did it to titanium lundsford turnbuckles, but will it work on this too? Also, I wanna see your guy's cars, so pleae post them here. I have not seen another XXX in some time, and it would be nice to see a change of pace. So ,post what you got here! thanks!

-A. Swift

[Casper]

re-inferno-- A-9930 Aluminum Gear/Slipper Shaft (XX, XXX & XXX-T) $11.95 is the alum top shaft that came with the KE or MF kits. The

A-3075 Upper Gear & Hardware 2.19:1 $6.00 is the part you want if you want to run the steel top gear. I would stick with the alum one though as this gear will tend to loose the "c" clip that holds the gear in place and then the clips jams in the gears and that really sucks from experience. The alum one piece top shaft is better for this reason and I believe it was a fluke that you bent yours. This is not a common problem. with these shafts.

The A-3077 was a top shaft only for the XX-T truck which had a different internal gear ratio.

XXX/TC3 Racer-- They are aluminium. The titanium anodizing tricks do not work for alum!

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Yeah, I kinda figured that. I liked the blue front stub axles that the ke kit has..darn it! I cannot seem to find a place that sells that part...Oh, I can also say that that c-clip sucks, from experience! IT eats the internal gears up, so it looks like it snowed all up in there! what crap! I still gotta hook up that one piece top shaft..lol..oh..how do i go about taking some lunsford titanium hinge pins, and holding them in place with a setscrew? Is it really just a matter of drilling a hole?

-A. Swift

[re-inferno]

@Casper:

Thank you very much for the info!
Perhas I'll get that thing right on track till weekend :)

I will try the steel shaft, i've heard of the C-clip coming loose before and so i'll try to use loctite and shims instead of the clip (guess i'll never have to take the thing apart again...)

The reason, i don't want to use the aluminium shaft is, that it bent without any reason - the backlash of the gears was correct, there was no crash that could have done any harm to the shaft.

[re-inferno]

@Casper:

Thank you very much for the info!
Perhas I'll get that thing right on track till weekend :)

I will try the steel shaft, i've heard of the C-clip coming loose before and so i'll try to use loctite and shims instead of the clip (guess i'll never have to take the thing apart again...)

The reason, i don't want to use the aluminium shaft is, that it bent without any reason - the backlash of the gears was correct, there was no crash that could have done any harm to the shaft.

[Casper]

re-inferno-- Like I said before a bent alum top shaft is VERY uncommon. Good luck with your steel top shaft project. Are you sure the top shaft is bent and it is not the motor plate that is causing the bad gear mesh. The XXX series motor plates are a lot better then previous generation cars but they do bend on occation from hard back end landings. Just something else to consider.

XXX/TC3 Racer-- I think Ulitmate hobbies 714-921-0424 has the kindwald axels in stock. Give them a call or even try www.horizonhobby.com or www.stormerhobbies.com. One of them will have it for sure.

For setscrewed hinge pins just find a #43 drill bit and drill a hole in the middle of the part that you want to set. Then using 4-40 set screws just screw the pins in place. If you want to get really trick then dremel a flat spot for the setscrew to lock on to.

[re-inferno]

@ Casper: No, its the aluminium shaft, it's out of roud where the shaft exits the tranny case, where the flat area starts. The funny thing is, that here in Austria, people often claim about bent aluminium shafts (don't know what we drive like that causes this ti happen :D it's not my Lehner 4200 i've heard of that happen even with 13- turn mod motors :confused: )

what I worry myself is how the gear is attached to the shaft, i think it may be a little out-of-round ausing the tranny not to run as smooth as I'm used to. we'll see...

by the way, does anyone have Problems with the ball diff, especially with the thrust bearing? After 20 or so runs, my thrust washers look like this!

http://members.aon.at/abanovi1/Tracktest/Losi%20XXX%20Kinwald/Drucklagerscheiben_ex.jpg

the balls create a groove on the washer causing it to bend under the load and finally break off wglie running.

I already use the 3/32" Carbide Balls in the thrust assembly, making a much smoother diff but barely solving my problems. Some Told me, my Diff is to tight, but this can't be the case as I would have to loosen my slipper so much more that there's poor acceleration.
The funny thing is, that the balls in the gear and the diff washers hold up pretty well over 100runs ouutlasting 5+ thrust assemblies !

[Casper]

Like I said the alum shaft is something I have not heard a lot about. Alot of people like running the alum top shaft beause it is turer and the gear is machined better. This is just what I have heard. Try the steel one and see if it works for you.

The diff-- I have had some losi thrust washers break on me but they were actually cracking on me. I have switched to running Traxxas thrust bearings.
Traxxas part number:
2729 Thrust washers(2)/ thrust bearing 10.00
These have a grove in the washer already and seem to last a lot longer. They are tad thicker also but I have never had one of these crack on me. Give one a try if you can get ahold of one down there! I am not sure what else to tell you. You might acutally be running the diff loose but I do not know. Depending on the conditions you are running under it could be a couple things. Is your track ruff with loose dirt? It may be that dirt is getting in there accelerating the wear or the ruff track could be hard on the diff.

[re-inferno]

I`ll try the Traxxas bearings.

I think the Losi thrust washers are simply too thin (i once had some MIPs, they were good, a bit thicker, but i somhow lost them)
theres no chance of any dirt getting in - something'im very critical about. The diff is sealed with the blue kit seal plus a "foam thing" on the diff screw and half of an earplug in the outdrive netzt to the screw.
I also started experimenting with the thrust assembly grease (since I felt that the white losi one isn't the best one) and I tried MIP diff lube once (because the lube from the thrust bearing somehow managed to get into the balls of the gear makinng them pretty slipping)

My track is a lawn-sand surface, very bumpy and I have to run the diff a bit on the tight side so it does not slip when landing off the jumps.

[Casper]

I like using the Associated black grease for the thrust assy. This has resulted in the best results from my experience. You might want to give that a try in your testing.

associacted part #6588 Black Grease 1 $2.50

[re-inferno]

Thanks!

[BROJR]

Is it worth the 90+$ for the graphite chassis kit if I am planning on racing? Or will the standard chassis with some mods be good enough?

[Casper]

There is a XXX-S thread but if you are going to race touring you will want a graphite chassis. The graphite kit is worth every penny more you will pay for it due to all the other hopups also. The threaded shock bodies, the titanium nitrite shock shafts, the titanium tie rods and other tuning stuff that the standard kit does not come with. If you are planning on racing these are all things you are going to want anyway so might as well do it right the first time and save lots of money in the long run.

[derekjr_1]

Does anyone know, or have, a XXX standard setup sheet? I have tried searching everywhere for one but the only one I can find is the Kinwald one. I dont want that one though, I want the regular XXX setup sheet. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Yo dereck, I think I can help you out here. I got the origional setup sheet, along with many setup sheets from brian dunbar, adam drake, brian, matt, etc. Just lemme know what oyu want, and give me your email addy..

-A. Swift

[derekjr_1]

You got mail, THANKS!

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

come on guys!
post pics and stuff...
I wish i had a XXXKE

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

sure is talkitive in here...
is ther a specific Teamlosi forum that i am not aware of?

Or no one talks about the XXX anymore?

[The_In_Kid]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
sure is talkitive in here...
is ther a specific Teamlosi forum that i am not aware of?

Or no one talks about the XXX anymore?

small world eh?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

no really,
i knew you were here since when you posted about the radio shack car of yours