Losi XXX Forum v2.0

[LosiMan3456]

I have a deans jig and I cant get the darn batteries in!! Well I can get them in but the wrapping on the outside crushes. Then when I put on shrink Wrap it makes them even tighter. Anybody else had problems?

2400's fit pretty tight

3000 HV's fit very tight and I really have to jam them in there.

I dont like jamming the batteries in there either because it crushes the wrapping. Are there any other **** out there?


Try the Fantom Battery bars too. Those are pretty low profile.

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by tarvymoto
Gutter ball , for oval try leaning all of the shocks in on the towers to the innermost hole. Next on the left rear a-arm , move the shock mount to the inner hole. I would use a stiffer spring in the rear and use a red spring for your right front. After that just set your arms to be level in the front and rear. Give it a shot.

I leaned the rear shock towers in, put two spacers under the bottom wing mount(steeper angle up for more downforce), moved the shock mount on the lower left rear, and then I tightened the shock collars on the right side of the car about 2/5 of the way down. My buddy races real car oval and suggested I make the right side stiffer than the left side. WOW!! I was SMOKING fast and I was tearing out of the corners!!! However, I got nudged on the right side and the car went spinning out of control :( I can't manouver right/left as quick as I like to...so I might have to make everything even on both sides again since I have to dodge pretty often (10 cars in the A main is waaay too many). Plus there are those who seem to try and take you out rather than let you pass :mad: so I have to pass wide. Thanks for the tips tarvy!!

[tarvymoto]

Gutterball , no sweat man. At my local oval track we have 3 truck classes: "small block"(novice) , "sportsman"(the most populated class) , and "bigblock"(expert). All of these use stock motors. Before this week my last 5 races where in the Sportsman class and I won 3 times and got 2 seconds out of about 20 sportsman racers. This week I desided to move up to bigblock and pulled off a 3rd place Amain finish out of 16 bigblock racers. I actually led the A for a coulpe of laps but got tangled w/ some lapped traffic...and in this class there are always a coulple of trucks breathing down the leaders neck...lol. Anyway I'm glad you had it running fast...I'm also an offroad racer but have been hitting the oval some cause it's close to my house.

At my track they also run "buggy" classes where most of the guys are running Kranzels "Terminator" conversion for the B3 which gives you a woven chassis w/ the batts on the left. They run Northeast Modified bodies on them. Some guys just put the NE bodies on a regular XXX or B3 though.

[nIkKo]

Post pics of your buggy to show how nice it is, everyone.

[losifreak2004]

Wow...I missed a lot of stuff in a couple of weeks!

Good show Casper!

If anyone has any questions, leave them here or at TeamURC's BB (www.teamurc.com) for me and I'll get to them before the Hot Rod Shootout

Aaron

[Skribble]

You're going to the Hot Rod race? Do you know how hot it's gonna be? :confused: It was 106° here yesterday, and it was hot as hell.

[Casper]

Yeah Gatorade was on sale 10 for $8. I got 20! That should last me the first day!:rolleyes: Racing should be great. A good tip. Get a cooler for your wather and when the ice melts (usually takes about an hour! LOL get some dish towels and soak them in the ice water and put them around your neck. It will make you shirt wet but makes the heat a little more bearable.:)

[losifreak2004]

Last year I went back to the hotel after every round to go swimming and take a cold shower LOL!

Aaron

[crono man]

hey guys what size pinion gears are using with a chameleon pro motor and 3000hv cells and the stock 82t spur?

if i base myself on the xxx instruction guide losi use a 25t pinion with 17turn motor so if im using a 19t chameleon pro i could use a 27t pinion right?:)

thanks for any input:)

[Gutter Ball]

WOW!! 27T! I would say that's waaaaaaaay too high! I bought the RPM gear cover, so I have to use a 76T spur so it doesn't rub the cover. I use a 21T pinion with my Chameleon, what you would use depends on your track :)

[tarvymoto]

Crono man , I would gear it about a tooth below what you use for a stock motor on the same track. Maybe 21-23.

[gtkx80]

I'm indecisive (wow, i dont think i've ever used that word before!) about which modified motor to get...I currently have a old school Peak Performnce 14t double!
I have a Novak 4-10 which isn't recomended under 13 turns!
Give me some opinions!!!! It will have to be a double because of all the jumps, I'm going to need some instant torque...
P-94, Ti, Sonic, Orion chrome, D4, Speed gems (the new ones,not the old ones)...Which one guys!
Preferably 14 turn because I dont like my stuff to get hot at all and plus, there is really no nead for all that motor anyways, atleast at our track...
O'yeah...this is going in a XXX kinwald !!!!!

[losifreak2004]

Orion Core Modified! If you're one of those people that absolutely have to have the best motor you can get, drop the $$$ for one of these. It sounds like you want a 14X2, and they have one of those ready and waiting...

If you would rather not spend the big bucks, the Trinity Speed Gems motors are a great choice. I'm not too sure what the name of the 14x2 is though :rolleyes:

Gutter ball - Put a 90 tooth spur on your car and run it for one battery pack. This will wear the gear cover to the point where you can run any spur you want.

crono man - Travymoto has the PERFECT idea!

Aaron

[Skribble]

I saw one of those Orion Core Stock Motors with 160% maximum efficiency. Would that be most likely a typo(60%?) or is it correct?

[gtkx80]

Where did you find that at ?

[losifreak2004]

Skribble - It depends on the dyno DRAMATICALLY.

It could have actually been 160% if the dyno is set to read it differently. Some dynos read in a different manner, in which numbers closest to 70 are ideal, and I'm sure there's a few more out there.

Aaron

[lildev0426]

any of you guys with xxxKe kits get the wrong size front inner arm hinge pin size? mine seems too short.

[losifreak2004]

What?

Are you SURE it's too short? That's next to impossible, unless the mold broke.

If you are absolutely positive that it is too short, e-mail me at awaldron@teamurc.com

Aaron

[lildev0426]

yep, check your email.

[losifreak2004]

OK, thanks Lildev

Aaron

[Casper]

Aaron-- He said the hinge pin was too short not the arm. Losi has been shipping a lot of bad kits as far as hinge pins in the KE and MF kits. They cannot seem to get the outer front hinge pins correct in the kits. I saw about 4 kits that were packaged wrong but I think they were MF not KE kits. Anyway it is a pain but if you contact Losi they are very good about getting you the rigth parts to help right there wrong.

One other thing. What direction do you run your Panther Cheetah tires. A Panther rep showed up at So Cal Fri night and started giveing out some tires (some of those Super soft ones too) but I got my hands on a set of soft cheetah's and I figure I should run them with the points going in the direction of rotation but was wondering if you had any insight. They look like the will work great but they seem a little soft and I am afraid they will not last very long.

[NoPepsiForYou]

Hey I am looking to buy a new motor for my XXX buggy. I need one that accelerates well and has a pretty good top speed. I was thinking about getting a D4 but im not sure after I read that stuff about the P2K2.

Thanks,
Dave

[losifreak2004]

Casper - For some reason I thought he said brace. Anyway, I got him squared away through e-mail.

I have been running the arrows facing rearward, but I will be trying them both ways. They should last a few runs.

Dave - A D4 is a modified motor, and will be MUCH faster than a P2K2 (stock motor), but the stock motor will last much longer with less maintenance, and you will get more run time.

Aaron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

im lookin to buy a KE used with a good speed control for decent price...email me at chris3drums@hotmail.com if you've got one for sale or trade...

[losifreak2004]

Eddie - Hey now! That's what the sales forums are for! HAHA

Everyone - I'm off to Saugus for the Hot Rod Shootout tomorrow morning at some unreasonably early hour, and I won't be back until next Monday. Wish me luck! And have fun driving your RC cars.

Aaron Waldron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

lol
whats your email?

[danbrad2000]

are losi buggys better than asociated and reasons why.

Thanks
Dan

[NoPepsiForYou]

Originally posted by danbrad2000
are losi buggys better than asociated and reasons why.

Thanks
Dan

They are both really good but in my honest opinion I do think that Losi is better. It has a better turning radius and it does excelent in jumps (very consistant) But if you get one I would truely suggest getting the graphite one so you won't have to worry about ordering a part every other time you take it out:rolleyes:

But one thing that I like about the associated ones is that they seem to hold up better. I have talked to lots of people and it seems to me that associated has a more durable buggy, but as long as you don't jump any staircases you should be fine;)

[danbrad2000]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou


They are both really good but in my honest opinion I do think that Losi is better. It has a better turning radius and it does excelent in jumps (very consistant) But if you get one I would truely suggest getting the graphite one so you won't have to worry about ordering a part every other time you take it out:rolleyes:

But one thing that I like about the associated ones is that they seem to hold up better. I have talked to lots of people and it seems to me that associated has a more durable buggy, but as long as you don't jump any staircases you should be fine;)

[danbrad2000]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou


They are both really good but in my honest opinion I do think that Losi is better. It has a better turning radius and it does excelent in jumps (very consistant) But if you get one I would truely suggest getting the graphite one so you won't have to worry about ordering a part every other time you take it out:rolleyes:

But one thing that I like about the associated ones is that they seem to hold up better. I have talked to lots of people and it seems to me that associated has a more durable buggy, but as long as you don't jump any staircases you should be fine;)

Im thinkin off getting a losi xxx spec becouse i want to be able to add my own hopups and i dont want to spend to much money.

Thanks
Dan

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by danbrad2000
Im thinkin off getting a losi xxx spec becouse i want to be able to add my own hopups and i dont want to spend to much money.

Thanks
Dan

If you're thinking about adding Graphite, it would a LOT cheaper just to get the Kinwald.

[AssociatedRacer]

If ur getting a XXX, and plan to hop it up, just get a Ke....Gutters right, its A LOT cheaper...

[NoPepsiForYou]

Well I was driving my buggy tonight and I was wondering why it was accelerating like crap. So I tightend my slipper clutch and it goes probably twice as fast as before but how tight should it be.

Right now I am running it at a half a turn losser than the tightest it will go.

[Gutter Ball]

If you've got good throttle control, then you can tighten the slipper right down. If you're like me, who sometimes gets trigger happy, then loosen it up to whatever the manual says (I forget if it's 4 full turns, or 4 half turns) and then back it off another 1/4 turn. If I'm on cement with high traction, then I'll tighten it right up.

[Casper]

For tighening the slipper I usually sit the car on the bench with tires on it. Hold the tires to the table so they will not spin and with the gear cover off the car try and spin the spur gear. It should be HARD to do but you should be able to spin it. Now when you set the car down to run it the first time after you adjust it hit the throttle hard from a stand still. It you hear something slip I would add another 1/4 turn. Other wise I leave it there. I usually only like the slipper to move when I land off jumps to keep the diff in check. IF conditions are loose though you might want the slipper to give some more. It should not slip more then 2-3 feet worth of car motion before it locks up though. If you run it too loose the plates and pads will glaze and not work properly anymore. They also get really hot when run too loose.

[danbrad2000]

Is the losi xxx spec buggy an upgrade from the xxx and is it good for offroad racing.

Thanks
Dan

[danbrad2000]

Is the losi xxx spec buggy an upgrade from the xxx and is it good for offroad racing.

Thanks
Dan

[AssociatedRacer]

its a downgrade actually, and since you want to race, why not, for the price of CVD's upgrade, get the kinwald which comes with almost EVERY thing upgraded? dont waste ur time with the spec...

[AssociatedRacer]

o ya...got a q's...what does the rear end conversion do? and how does it affect handling?

[NoPepsiForYou]

What the heck is that?

[Gutter Ball]

The CRE rear end upgrade is only good for tracks with very high traction (as I found out). Our track gets dusty so I was constantly spinning out. I went back to regular CVD's and all is good. As it was said, rear sway bars accomplish the same thing and you can use them as needed.

[beeper]

Where can i find this CRE rear end upgrade?

[LosiMan3456]

Check Stormer Hobbies or Tower Hobbies.

I do not have experience with the CRE conversion but the people I race with dont like it. They either have it set at stock or are just going to switch back. They also have broken ball studs inside them. Just my 2 cents.

Do u guys run a front wing?
I just ran one this sat in mod and ran a faster time then without it. One of my friends was giving me crap about it, he said it doesnt make much difference. I figured that when I but it:rolleyes: , but it looks cool too:D

[losifreak2004]

XXXTNovakOrion - It's in my profile! But it's awaldron@teamurc.com

Dan - AE will have a new buggy, they hope before Christmas time, but that is tentative. The car is as close to a XXX as they can get without cloning it. :p

I feel the Losi cars are easier to drive, and that's all there is to it. They are easy to work on, and hold up very well (I've NEVER broken my XXXT, and only broken my XXX three times, which were all my fault).

Again, the KE is a much better value than the Blue Spec, but both are good cars!

Casper hit the nail on the head as far as the slipper goes. The job of the slipper is to save the diff. I only run it as loose as it needs to be to do that.

To check the diff, lock the slipper down, hold the spur gear and right rear tire with one hand and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it AT ALL, tighten the diff 1/8th of a turn and try again. Once you can't turn the left rear tire, loosen the diff 1/2 of a turn until you can. This means the slipper will slip before the diff does.

The CRE conversion was actually made for smooth, slick (not dusty) tracks. It alters the bind point of the rear suspension to keep the car flatter through corners, which will increase sidebite.

LosiMan - I only run front wings on tracks I would use the CRE conversion

Aaron Waldron

[beeper]

Can you still get front wings?

[tarvymoto]

Beeper , the front wing is included in the High-Downforce wing kit. Losi A8110. You also get the large rear wing.

[losifreak2004]

What wings do you guys run? Adam told me to use the V-wing from the XXCR, Part number LOS A-8107

Aaron Waldron

[LosiMan3456]

I usually run the stock XXX wing. If traction is a problem I will try the High Downforce rear wing.

I have never tried the XX wing tho.

[losifreak2004]

I ran it at the Hot Rod Shootout...seemed a little smoother transitioning than the XXX wing, but that might have just been the groove getting stickier.

Aaron

[mtn bkr]

Hey guys, I just got myself a XXX KE. I was at a club race last week and ended up trading my T3 to a guy that I know after my main was over. I've never raced a Losi product before, as I've always owned Associated. I can't wait to race it so I can see how different it is from my B3. If it's anything like I think it'll be, my B3 might just have to find a new home.

[losifreak2004]

If you're a racer, it depends on your driving style. If you are a calm driver who stays smooth, then you're gonna love it!

It might take some getting used to, because the car won't be as twitchy as the B3.

Aaron Waldron

[mdewitt71]

I am a nitro junkie going electric....
Are these motors any good for bashing and yard racing?

Speed Gems 9T for $27.00
Caliber 10T Dbl for $17.99
Kyosho Terminal Velocity 11T for $19.99
Peak Jaguar 11T for $21.99

[losifreak2004]

The Kyosho motor is questionable....but the other motors will run fine.

Aaron Waldron

[mdewitt71]

I read to break em in you can hook up to a pack and drop the motor in a cup of water for 45 seconds. Does this really work?
How long should I look at one of these motors to last me?

[losifreak2004]

Yes, you CAN do that to break motors in, but I've never seen anyone do it, because it doesn't make enough sense. When you get the motor, take it apart and clean it. Use a tiny bit of comm drops, hook the motor up to a 4-cell battery, and let it run for 2 minutes. Lube the bearings/bushings, spin the motor a few times, and install it in the car. You'll be good to go from there.

You should get many many battery packs through the motor before it dies. But unless you have a lathe to cut the comm (or access to one) you will see a performance drop, especially around the 30-35 run mark.

Hope that helps!

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

The purpose of braking the motor in under water is to keep the heat low thus keeping the com shiny during break in. You have to be carefull beacause the water excellerates break in , so you can over do it easily. The best method is the one expalined by Aaron above.;)

[losifreak2004]

I've seen (and actually have) a little fan that is attached to the motor like a pinion during break-in, for the sole purpose of keeping it cool.

Aaron Waldron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Hey Aaron,

Hop on AIM next time your on. :)

[tarvymoto]

Water actually gets rid of all the heat. After you break in under water your com looks just as is did after it came off the lathe only now your brushes are seated too. This is how I seat my brushes when I'm at home ...if I'm at the track I don't bother with the water though:)

[tarvymoto]

.

[tarvymoto]

.

[tarvymoto]

and finally the buggy that strikes fear into the minds at my local tracks:p

[NoPepsiForYou]

ever get your finger stuck in the gears on a losi truck, MAN THAT HURTS!!!

[AssociatedRacer]

why would u stick ur finger in and gas it?:confused:

[NoPepsiForYou]

well first off it wasen't a gas, it was my electric buggy. And I didn't mean to, it was on accedent:rolleyes:

[TheRealDudeman]

Not GAS as in the car GAS as in hit the throttle

[NoPepsiForYou]

Now im just confused:confused:

ohhh well I didn't "gas" it I was messing around with the radio and I held up the car to turn it on and the throtle trim was all the way up. So my finger of course flinched backwards right into the gears:rolleyes: now I have a really deep painful infected cut right on my middle finger

[mtn bkr]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
If you're a racer, it depends on your driving style. If you are a calm driver who stays smooth, then you're gonna love it!

It might take some getting used to, because the car won't be as twitchy as the B3.

Aaron Waldron

That's what I'm hoping for. I liked my B3 and T3, but I have to always be on the money with my driving to place well. If I was off even a little, forget about it. I've driven my brother's XX KE and liked the way it feels. My B3 has a lot of punch, but it does feel pretty twitchy. Especially if it bottoms out. I look forward to running my XXX at the next club race.

[losifreak2004]

Eddie - I'll be on all day tomorrow, even if I'm out of the house. My SN is greensmurf20

Travis - Nice cars!

NoPepsi - I can honestly say I've never done that.

Aaron Waldron

[NoPepsiForYou]

greensmurf20 - what the !@#$ where you smoking when you thought up that?

[losifreak2004]

HAHAHAHA

That's exactly the reaction I like getting out of people....

Aaron Waldron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

lies! your not on :p
hehehe

[losifreak2004]

Oops HAHA.

I am on....just have my security settings on too strict.

Aaron Waldron

[NoPepsiForYou]

someone guess what my SN is...come on I dare ya;)

[losifreak2004]

HAHA

Aaron Waldron

[LosiMan3456]

YESCOKEFORYOU? Is that it?:D ;)

[NoPepsiForYou]

Originally posted by LosiMan3456
YESCOKEFORYOU? Is that it?:D ;)

Well all I have to say is...GOD NO!!!

[Austin GT]

my brother thats who!! Travymoto has not only become a respected and accoplished rc racer and painter,but he has also shared his experience with me.I am now the proud owner of a XXX-NT (which is the second kit my bro hooked me up with:D )so I want everyone to know in case ya didn't already, Travis is not only a hardcore mofo winning races, he's also making it possible for me to do it too..:cool:Thanks big bro!!

[losifreak2004]

Aww.....isn't that cute :p

LOL, that's cool to hear that. Good job Travis, and good luck Austin!

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

GT , that's what big brothers are for man. Now tear it up!!! and I don't mean the truck:D

[makaluch]

Just wanted to say hey to all of you guys ! It's been a while since I've been back. Man, life's just throwin me around right now...no time AND no money :rolleyes: I even thought about selling out ! Then I visit the boards again and I come back to my senses.

There are just too many areas of this hobby that are just plain ole' FUN !!! Building, driving, tuning, bashing, painting and talkin about it all !! See, you guys helped me out AGAIN !!! This time you guys helped me stay in the game...even if I am on the bench for now :( Talk again soon !

:) Mark

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Isn't that the fun part?

Mark - I was wondering where you went! Good luck with everything...

Aaron Waldron

[OmegaTrac]

Hey guys,
What do you think of this setup?

-Losi XXX
-Novak Rooster ESC
-Trinity P2K2
-MRC SuperBrain 959
-JR XR3
-JR Z550 Premium Race Servo

[losifreak2004]

I think you're well on your way to winning some races!

Either that, or having some SERIOUS fun bashin!

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

.

[tarvymoto]

.

[losifreak2004]

That's awesome!

Aaron Waldron

[AssociatedRacer]

Welcome back Mark, its been a while...

[OmegaTrac]

Hey Aaron,

Get on AIM. Im omegatrac on AIM

[NoPepsiForYou]

Man, a clean car, I haven't seen one of them in a while:rolleyes:

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Hey Aaron,
how did you do in the mains? i took off around 3:30...kind of got bored since i wasnt racing :p

[tarvymoto]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou
Man, a clean car, I haven't seen one of them in a while:rolleyes:

That buggy is well over a year old. I do a full tear down after every coulpe of races...depending on the track.;)

[NoPepsiForYou]

heh my buggy is 3 years old and just about everything is stock and I have never even taken a look at the differentials or the bearings. The amazing thing is that I am still running stock front tires:eek:

[ILiketheXXCR]

Hey guys I was wondering if the XXX is THAT much better then the XX CR Kinwald. Should I upgrade or can I wait a little longer for the new buggy to come out?

[AssociatedRacer]

Yes, its better, yes upgrade. A new car wont come out for a LONGGGGG time....

[losifreak2004]

Omega - I am greensmurf20. I will look for you.

Eddie - I bumped up, and finished 5th in the A. Took over the points lead (well, behind Mr. Drake)

Travis - People were housing their cars off at Pro-Line yesterday....heck, after the races people said they were going to go home and take out all the electronics, bearings, and engine, AND PUT THE CAR IN THE DISHWASHER!

ILiketheXXCR - Losi won't be replacing the XXX for at least another year. Unless your track is really rough and loose, the XXX will be a much faster car. If you are just playing around in the backyard, however, the XXCR will be just fine!

Aaron Waldron

[LosiMan3456]

Man that sounds like a dirty track. Next year in like FEB I am going to florida for a race. My friend has gone once or twice already. He said every time he goes it rains and there are huge puddles on the track. Almost everyone blew a speedo. They were throwing their cars in buckets full of water.:eek:
Cant WAIT! hehe

I have a XXCR and have a XXX. I still bash around with my XX and race with my XXX. I bet tho, I could race my XX and fair pretty well. Hey maybe I should try that:rolleyes:

[TheRealDudeman]

does anyone have a stock diff i can have or buy i need it for my Dad. i am puting my older XXXT ,THE BONE STOCK 1, together 4 my dad so we can race together

[losifreak2004]

TRDM - Why not just build a new one? It will last longer than a used diff...

LosiMan - That's gas-racing weather!

Aaron Waldron

[Poolboy51]

What advantages does the XXX Kinwald ed. have over other buggies, such as the B3 FT? Where does it fall short? Im not sure which one I want to get yet. Thanks for any help.

[w007yoshi]

Sup err'body? Just checkin back in wit'chall. D@mn this thread has gotten hUge! :D :D :)

[Exterminator]

Well I finally joined the buggy side of racing.
I've been running a xxxt mfe for a few months and wanted to add to my ontrack time so picked up a slightly used xxx ke.

Now that I've read this forum and caught up on all the tricks of the buggy I'll take this baby apart and clean and caress every part so that it get's to know me.
You know you have to treat your R/C's nice so that they perform their best.

See you at the races.
Tim W.

[losifreak2004]

Tim - Sweet! Buggies are one of the funnest classes in RC!

yoshi - HAHA yeah, it's gotten big

poolboy - It only falls short in that it's not as "twitchy" as the B3. In my opinion, it has every other 2WD buggy covered.

Aaron Waldron

[R/C_12]

Do you guys think this servo would be good for my xxx? I just built a regular one not KE.
Servo HERE[/URL


good or no good? something with more speed and less torque?

Also what does running CVDs do? I see all the pro set-ups use the dogbones. I just ordered the mip CVD kit...so im kinda worried :(

[URL=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUZ89&P=M]Servo HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUZ89&P=M)

Whats a good radio system that is fairly cheap but I can race with? ( with outgiving away that im a total noob!:rolleyes: ) lol

[losifreak2004]

You MIGHT want something a little faster than that servo.

Look at the Airtronics CX2P. It is a 3-channel FM racing system, without the digital hoopla. Very good radio!

Aaron Waldron

[AssociatedRacer]

ya,i was wondering that too, how come one the setup sheets, a lot of people say they use dogbones?

[R/C_12]

What about this one? SERVO HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXN687&P=7)

Still wondering about the dog bones versus CVDs

new question: Would this be a good discharger? I'm gonna cut off the tamiya plugs and solder on deans. dicharger HERE (http://www.team-orion.ch/shop/usa/products.asp?id=17&cat=Dischargers)

Can you cut off tamiya plugs and solder deans plugs on already assembled stick packs?

-Tyler

[tarvymoto]

RC12 , the speed on that servo is getting better but the torque is too low. You want something faster than .18 and something with 55 + torque . Those would be a good entry level #'s

[R/C_12]

AAAHAAA!!! Ive found the perfect entry level servo... 0.16 and 77 oz of torque...for only 39.99! right around my price range:D :p

what about those dis-charger and battery questions?

[R/C_12]

GGGGRRRRRRRR its discontinued!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad:

[losifreak2004]

TLR - Dogbones handle rough sections of the track better.

R/C_12 - You're much better off saving up the $$$ for a really good brand-name servo.

Aaron Waldron

[makaluch]

Hey Tim ! I was wondering if you could post some setup info for the KE on the new layout at Tacoma ?

I need to tear it down and there's no better time to setup with ease. I made the mistake of letting my brother-in-law run down a beat set of tapers and he chose to do donuts in a dusty parking lot. So much for THAT diff... lol ! I'll be blowing out bearing for a few minutes too !

For the masses - Tacoma is now a small to medium track with relatively open sweeping turns. Corner speed is very important...especially on a sweeping layout. Tacoma's usually usually blue-groove after a few weeks, but in general is hard-pack clay and relatively smooth.

[Exterminator]

I set up using the Kinwald roar nat's set up page.

I haven't gotten enough time on track to change it from there to suit the tacoma track better.
It worked for me right out of the box and was competitive.

I can't make this sundays race. =(

see ya at the races
Tim W.

[losifreak2004]

Sounds like a swaybar track!

Aaron Waldron

[Exterminator]

Not sure if a sway bar would work on TRCR. I know that the pro drivers don't use them. Scott Brown, Chris Bridgewater. The track is set up with a good balance of tight turns and fast sweepers. I'll post pict's after Tuesdays club race with full report on hot set ups.

See ya
Tim W.

[R/C_12]

Do you know what gear I should be running at The Dirt? I have a Reedy MVP. I was thinking of going to the kinwald gears so that i could run a smaller spur. That way I would have more gear mesh adjustability (sp?) Is that a good idea? so what pinion/spur ratio should I run?

-Thanks

[Poolboy51]

Tacoma guys-
what car would you say would be best for TRCR? Im leaning towards the FTB3 but Im not sure yet. If you had to go back and buy an electric buggy would you go with the B3 FT or the XXX KE? Does the losi break easier? :confused: and it sounds like alot of ppl have B3's there. are they more B3's than XXX's? sprry for all the questions. I just dont want to buy the wrong buggy. thanks if you answer my questions.

[Exterminator]

For the Tacoma track either buggy is great.
It's entirely up to personal preferance.
You can't loose going with either the FT B3 or the xxx KE.
I went with the xxx Ke because most of my other vehicles are losi and there are some spare parts that are interchangable.

Tim W.

[makaluch]

And last I was there, the buggy split seemed to be right down the middle.

You can get factory advice and parts for both rides also...Chris is a Losi driver and Scott is an AE driver. Most setup knowledge is pretty generic and almost anyone at the track would be happy to help you out.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

hey i finally got my team losi! i got a xxx spec.
i got a speed gem 2 with p-94 big brush conversion
a novak explorer esc
2400 peak performance unmatched packs
jr python radio and jr 510 steering servo

i plan 2 upgrade it soon the kit went 2 gether great, no problems except losing a ball for the ball diff adn having 2 get a nother one
i got about 8 packs thru it, but now when i hit the throttle it dont move, its eiother the motor or esc i bought the losi off road shock oil kit that has 20 25 30 35 40 45 in it, i have a 20 tooth pinion and the stock spur, i just have the stock fluid in the shocks right now, i painted it pearl blue, i am so glad i stuck wit a losi!

[crono man]

anybody knows if some company makes a aluminium diff gear for the xxx?

thanks for any input:)

[Exterminator]

I don't believe that anyone makes one for the xxx. I think there won't be one available due to the increased rotating mass that it would add to the drive train.
There is one for the xxxNT but in the nitro truck the extra mass doesn't matter as much due to the Nitro motor putting out so much more hp. The extra mass isn't going to cause a slowdown in aceleration.

Are you having trouble with your xxx diff melting? That is the only reason I can think of for going to a Aluminum diff gear. Maybe we can aid you in proper tightness of it to keep it from slipping.

Talk to you soon.
Tim W.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

how big of a difference does the hydra-drive slipper make? how does it work and what makes it so much better than a friction slipper?

and another q, does losi make graphite wing mounts? the plastic dont seem 2 sturdy and i dunno if i want aluminum ones.

i ran my losi on my uncles track and i just love how it handled and went thru the air. every time i hit a jump it leveled off in the air and landed so smooth. i was over shooting the table top and gettin about 4 foot of air off the one double, and blazed right thru the rythm section. one of my friends was driven his e-maxx and i totaly blew it away. cant wait til i get my novak c2 esc and 12 turn p-94.

what part do u guys think would most likely brake?

[Gutter Ball]

how big of a difference does the hydra-drive slipper make? how does it work and what makes it so much better than a friction slipper?
On the XXX series, I think the Hydra Drive is obsolete. I ran them on my XX-T and XX-CR and they did help over the rough stuff when I let go of the throttle.

I dunno about the wing mounts, why do you want them to be graphite? I prefer plastic because if I end up upside down (happens more than I'd like to admit) the plastic flexes whereas graphite would probably snap.

I haven't broken anything yet, but I had to rebuild the diff after about 15 races.

[Casper]

The hydra drive will fit on the XXX series of cars but you will only benefit if the track is really rough. Other then that the extra mass (and it is a lot!) will hurt more then it helps under most conditions.

Wing mounts. There are a couple people that have made alum wing mounts but other then those which run around $25 the losi plastic ones are all you have to use.

crono man-- HG would be the only people that I know of that would make one. I know they made them for the XX series of cars so I would think they would have done the same for the XXX cars. I would not recomend these though. Not worth the money or the wieght. IF your are melting gears you diff is too loose. Simple as that. Replace the belvelled washers in the diff when you rebuild. This will help to make sure your diff stays tight and after a rebuild readjust the diff after the first or second run as the diff will seat and loosen up so you need to put another 1/4 turn in it to keep it from slipping.

[losifreak2004]

R/C_12 - I have NO idea how to gear an electric car for Hemet, because I would never think of bringing one to the track with me. If you plan on racing there, gear one tooth higher than you would for a smaller track.

Casper - Good stuff!

phsykoman - I really only break caster blocks....cutting corners too close.

Aluminum diff gears will not help! Sure, they won't melt, but they don't mesh well with the idler gear. Also, they conduct the heat produced in the diff, and can cause problems in other areas.

Anything else?

Aaron Waldron

[crono man]

thanks for the fast replys guys..

im not having slippage problems with my current diff but i was thinking of putting those evil brushless motor and from what i heard there very ruff on the transmission!(i guy with a hacker brushless motor had the balls inside the diff melt the gear and fly trou the face of the gear:eek: )

[losifreak2004]

Current brushless motors are ONLY good for drag racing! Several cars this weekend at the Hitec Parking Lot race tried them....no brakes!

If you plan on running one, make sure the diff won't slip! That's all there is to it.

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Like aaron said if the diff does not slip it will not melt. If you are unloading one of the tires all the time by doing donuts would heat up the diff but under normal running and as long as the diff does not slip it will not burn up. Now it will be harder to keep the diff from slipping as you increase horse power but a metal diff gear will not keep the diff from slipping. Loosen the slipper some to take the load off the diff if you cannot keep the diff from slipping. You will still get top speed just lose some bottom end.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

well i figured out why my xxx wasnt runnin, the spring was bent and wasnt holding the brush tight enough, put on a new spring and lifes good... for now neways. i should have a pic of my xxx up tonight, or around noon 2morrow

[losifreak2004]

Casper - The slipper should ALWAYS slip before the diff does.

When I run my slipper cranked, it's because I don't care if I have to replace the diff every run at a big race. If I club raced every weekend with my electric cars, I'd run the slipper looser, which will also help on looser tracks.

Aaron Waldron

[R/C_12]

Aaron: Why you never think of bringing a electric car to The Dirt?

[Casper]

Aaron-- Since I normally run stock I run my slipper a little tighter then I should but if you run lots of power and you slipper is too tight the diff can become the weak link. I totally agree. The slipper should always be looser then the diff but if you are talking about too much power loosing up the slipper a little will take some more strain off the diff and should let it last longer.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

srry but im gonna have 2 delay the pics, i prolly wont be able 2 run my xxx for a while now, motor is bein a friggen prick. so b 4 i run it again i'll prolly have the new novak speed controller and a p-94 if thats still the top trinity motor by the time i get it... jr xr3 radio with a 550 servo.

[losifreak2004]

R/C_12 - Well for me, simply because there isn't anyone for ME to race with. That, and the track is too hard on cars for electric racing.

Casper - Amen!

Aaron Waldron

[R/C_12]

whatta are you trying to say? lol :p

chassis are only like 25 bucks who cares if they get a little scratched lol.

do you race your XXX at extreme?

[losifreak2004]

Yeah....shock shafts, shock towers, bodies, front kickplates....haha.

Joey is building an electric-only track pretty soon, so I will have a place to practice! Yes, I do race electric at Extreme every once in a while.

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Who is Joey and where is this new track going in?

[AssociatedRacer]

Okay, this is really annoying...i keep getting a notification that someone replied, yet whenever i come back to the thread no one replied.

[makaluch]

Me too. Something's up with the e-mail notification program.

Tried to report TL3R's post, but I chose not to because it's for spam, or problematic people only...not to gripe about their software problems.:rolleyes:

[crono man]

do you guys think the trinity team kinwald aluminium hop up parts(front bulkhead,suspension brace,servo brace etc..)are worth it?or do they just add extra weight for nothing....

thanks for any input:)

[Gutter Ball]

Okay, need a little help again. I don't know what's going on now, but my XXX is pushing like mad! (At least I think it's called pushing :P, the car's not turning as well as I'd like) I have to let go of the throttle when I'm turning now and that allows everyone to gain some ground me, not good in stock oval. I added 1/2 ounce of weight under the front bulkhead and that hasn't helped any. My setup is the one Tarvymoto suggested (D'oh, I forgot to quote it). Any suggestions? I'd rather rely on pure speed rather than driving skill to win :D Since everybody's catching me so easily now, I have to rely on accidents to hang on.

[tarvymoto]

Gutterball . that oz of weight will actually make the car push a little bit. Start by removing that , then maybe add a small bit of preload to the rear and take away a tad bit from the front. You will probable have to let of in time to keep a low line through the corners and make sure you don't run any drag break so that when you let off you still carry good speed through the corners.;)

[Casper]

Originally posted by crono man
do you guys think the trinity team kinwald aluminium hop up parts(front bulkhead,suspension brace,servo brace etc..)are worth it?or do they just add extra weight for nothing....

thanks for any input:)

As long as you have a metal front brace the front bulkhead is really not necessary for the XXX. I do like it for the truck although I do not have one yet. The longer arms on the XXX-T put more strain on the bulkhead. The servo brace is for looks and just adds wieght. The rear pivot block is a good idea. You do not need the rear brace if you have the alum block. I also like the alum rear hubs since you get verticle ball studs with them but you can run the skipgear conversion and do the same thing if you wanted to. So to answer your question some if it is useful other things are for show. The alum battery brace and servo brace are just extra wieght in my opinion.

[crono man]

ok thanks casper,how about the trinity xxx-cre conversion thing does it really help??

thanks again:)

[Gutter Ball]

Gutterball . that oz of weight will actually make the car push a little bit. Start by removing that , then maybe add a small bit of preload to the rear and take away a tad bit from the front. You will probable have to let of in time to keep a low line through the corners and make sure you don't run any drag break so that when you let off you still carry good speed through the corners.;)
D'oh!! I put the weight on because ALL the fast offroad guys do it and it's supposed to HELP turning :) Hahahaha...I guess I'll take it back off and go with spring adjustments. Thanks again!

I use the Trinity aluminum servo brace, battery holder and rear pivot block. The only thing that I think is worth it is the rear pivot block. CRE conversion is a waste of money unless your track has SUPER traction. I used it on our dirt track and was sliding out like mad. Someone suggested that I add sway bars (gives the same effect) when the track has good traction.

[Casper]

gutterball is right-- A good sign that you want to try the CRE conversion is that your track runs slick tires! OTher then that stay with the "stock" setup.

[Exterminator]

Anyone using a front wing kit?
I was just wondering what kind of track this seems to help on.
Thanks
Tim W.

[Casper]

Large fast sweeping tracks are what guys tend to like the wing for. You need to be moving fast for it work so tight technical tracks tend not to see any effect from the front wing.

[w007yoshi]

Havent been here in ages :rolleyes: :mad: :confused: :eek: :cool: :p :) :(

Anyways heres mah car http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Sep/2002916113026901578291.jpg

Pic is a little ruff :p camera died shortly thereafter :( its the same car ive had but with better body. I am now waitin for that Skipgear body :D like my other one on xx4

[Exterminator]

Good looking car. welcome back to the forum.

[crono man]

hey guys couple of questions for ya..

looking at the setupsheets on losi website i noticed two things

1.why do racer put limiters or spacers inside their shocks?

2.almost all of them put a 1/4oz weight on the front bulkhead!?

just curious
:)

[Gutter Ball]

1.why do racer put limiters or spacers inside their shocks?
To lower the car for better handling! I do it for my stock oval set up. I went really low once (like .5cm off the ground!) and that was very very very bad! Kept spinng out, there is a limit to how low you can go before it starts to get worse. I also put limiters on the outside to stop the shocks from fulling compressing on my XXX-T

2.almost all of them put a 1/4oz weight on the front bulkhead!?
I THOUGHT that was to get the front end to stay down better to reduce pushing, but when I did that, my buggy seemed to push even more.

[w007yoshi]

Nevermind I posted something that contradicted itself lol

[KXXXE]

here is a pic of my xxx KE i just got I didn't paint but i like it.

Tell me what you think:)

If you like you can see more at http://www.aptoshs.net/~jnoes5681

[Casey]

I'm new to the electric scene(nitro guy here). Bought and built this to run at an indoor track over the winter. I put an LRP Runner ESC and a P2K2 in it. Installed bearings instead of bushings in the diff and for the wheels. Hated the blue tires at first, but I think they actually look pretty good against the black body with the blue rod ends, etc.

http://images.andale.com/f2/109/117/8346704/1031032472760_losi_b.jpg

[LosiMan3456]

That does look sweet!

A suggestion, when u get a chance you will want to upgrade to titanium turnbuckles.

[fReShJiVe]

what is the size of the nut for the rear tires??

[w007yoshi]

8/32 por CVD's o 10/32 por Universals, comprendes? lol

[fReShJiVe]

Originally posted by w007yoshi
8/32 por CVD's o 10/32 por Universals, comprendes? lol
thanks:)

[Gutter Ball]

Being the ONLY Losi in a stock oval, my lead is starting to diminish!! 9 Associated's.....7 with Green Machines and 2 with P2K's are breathing down my XXX with MVP's neck!! I was kicking butt, until I had to change the armature...now I can't find the sweet spot :( Anyway, they're catching me in the corners because I HAVE to ease up on the throttle or I won't be able to make it, but as soon as I hammer it again, I take off. I'm running 76/23 right now and I'm thinking about going to 76/21 to see if I can hold my speed going into corners. I took out the weight, raised my front colllars about 4 full turns and lowered my rears about 2 full turns. Any more suggestions?!?! 2 more race days to go....must.....hang....on for the win!! No Losi has ever won stock oval at our track.....must be the first :)

[hjb]

Im would appreciate some help with XXX in terms of High speed steering? Given the standard setup (With orange springs front and yellow rear, everything else stanard) what changes can I make so as to get more high speed steering the only other item to be considered is the fact that I'm using a hyrda-drive!!! The tracks are very bumpy and very dusty!

[crono man]

after how many runs do you guys rebuild your diffs(put in new diff rings,trust,ball etc)?

thanks:)

[hjb]

crono man

I usually pull down my diff, every 4-6 racy days, just to clean out, check up and replace if necessary

[w007yoshi]

dont forget those diff rings can be used twice... just flip them over for the unused side until both sides are worn

[crono man]

so after about 15 runs you guys think that its time to buy new rings and balls?

[hjb]

crono,

I believe that if you maintain your diff and don't run it too loose, the actually diff rings can be clean up with some sand paper (very light grain), but you will have to get some rings in the end

[crono man]

thanks:) well when cleaning my diff i noticed that my outdrive bearings(the big ones) where very gretty and not spinning freely so cleaned them up and noticed how cheap the seal is!

do you guys have any ideas on replacement bearings that are of better quality than the stock one(maybe dynamite red seals)?

thanks again for any advice:)

[CWT33]

I just bought my LOSI XXX-T and I am ready to get started but the tools they supply arent very friendly.. What are the exact sizes of sloted and phillips screwdrivers and the Alan wrenches and nut drivers???? I want to make sure everything is tight but I dont want to strip anything..Silly question but I want to be positive..:confused:

[crono man]

cwt33-i bought some dynamite wrenchs youll need 1/16",3/32" and 5/64":)

[adim_x]

Hey guys how you all doin. I just got my xxxke, i am using a peak hellfire stock motor, novak gt7 esc. I am going to be racing on a indoor offroad track in Albion, IL it is a super sticky smooth,red clay, that almost seems like it has the consistency of play-dough. i was curious if you guys had some set up advice, like what shock oil, and stuff like that, anybody here been to that track it is pretty nice. thanks adim_x

[CWT33]

Thanks crono man

[Casper]

Originally posted by CWT33
I just bought my LOSI XXX-T and I am ready to get started but the tools they supply arent very friendly.. What are the exact sizes of sloted and phillips screwdrivers and the Alan wrenches and nut drivers???? I want to make sure everything is tight but I dont want to strip anything..Silly question but I want to be positive..:confused:

My web site has a complete list of tools needed for these cars and lets you know what they are used for. Go to the bottom of the tips and tricks page.

http://home.att.net/~casper04

[xxxkat]

Hey Adim_x,I would start with the stock set up and see how you like it,I use the adam drake set up.I got it on losi's web site.The biggest thing with MY xxx is tires,with the drake set up my car is so dialed all I do is make shure I have the "right tires".good luck.

[ToMoLoSi]

Hey guys i got my XXX ke about 2 months ago and it hauls ass this is a big improvment from my traxxas bandit, but I'm wondering what I should use for gearing with my Chameleon 2 right now I'm 22/78 and 23/78 (78 is the stock spur correct?!?) is this ok for it it seems to be running ok, but I want a little more top end do you think i can pull higher

[hjb]

ToMoLoSi


The 78 spur (White) is the stock spur for the XXX KE, where as 82 is the stock spur for the normal XXX. With the smaller spur you get to put the weight of the motor closer to the axles of the car and thus in theory you get a little more traction. If you want a little more top end put a larger pinion on, IF the motor can handle it ie doesn't get to HOT!

[slowbuggy]

anyone have a good gearing sugestion of just bashing on road, or on flat dirt? i've got a trinty D2 14 turn Quad dirtinater motor in it and a 29 t00th pinion, bu t i don't know what the spurt gear is, its yellow, too many teeth to count.

Also, do they make instruction manuals for these things, i got one on ebay about a month ago and the CVD in the back drive thing is srewed up and i need to know how to fix it. I'm new to r/c and i don't know any of the terminoligi, like what a "diff" is and some other terms etc...

ya, how fast do you guys go, my xxx goes about 23mph, it seems slow, sence my 15year old tamiya boomerang goes 18mph, but it has a 7 cell battery. thanx for any and all replys
-kevin

[Casper]

The yellow spur gear has 82 teeth. For a 14 turn motor I would gear it with a 22 tooth pinion. 23 MPH sounds about right. May not seem very fast in an open street or field but on the track that is pretty dang fast. A for the manual you should be able to contact Losi and they can get you a manual. www.teamlosi.com. If you want I can step you through the rebuild of a CVD it is not that hard or you can look at the exploded diagrams on the team losi web site and figure it out from that.

[ronvdp]

Just want to get my first post in the XXX forum so I can get updates. I have a KE coming and work very near SoCal Raceway so will probably spend some time there learning and hopefully not crashing into any of the hotshots there:D

[xxxkat]

Great choice on your buggy,So.Cal is a great place to learn how to go fast,ask as many questions as you can on tires,car set up,You have a chance to watch some of the best factory drivers around,most of them will help you out,esp. on club racing.:D

[Casper]

ronvdp-- You have a great buggy. Also So Cal is a fun place to race since they change the track a lot and they also have a lot of competition you can race with. They have 4 levels of stock racing so you can graduate and continue to race with people of your ability. Get some Pink X-2000 tires for the rear and the stock silver fronts will work good on the front. The kit tires will work ok but pink compound tires will work the best all around for you. The kit setup will also work just fine so you can learn to drive and then you can start working on setting up the car.

[losifreak2004]

Gutterball - What are you running for a rear camber link? Better yet...what's your setup?

crono man - Every 15 runs is FAR too often. If this is the longest extent to which your diff stays smooth, you are doing something very wrong.

There are far too many questions for me to read and reply to....haha. If you need anything answered, e-mail me at awaldron@teamurc.com or IM me at Aaron Waldron 1.

Aaron Waldron

[makaluch]

Where's a good place to start for gears...XXX KE with a C2 and a tuned GM3 Pro. I have a yellow(82, I believe) and a white (?80)spur.

[w007yoshi]

If its a usual size track, 82 spur 21 pinion

[makaluch]

One more question:

Is a Schottky diode and external cap absolutely necessary with this stock setup ? I had some problems before and was told the Schottky is an absolute necessity with an Atom.

[Gutter Ball]

Update: I won the stock oval class! My Reedy powered XXX absolutely dominated the Green Machine/P2K(2) powered Associated's and I was the first Losi to win stock oval since the club was started (over 15 years ago). I was so far in the lead (after dropping lowest points), I didn't have to race the last 2 race days if I didn't want to.
Thanks to everybody for your tips (directly and indirectly, I got some good pointers reading other tips)!

My setup for stock oval:

Reedy MVP geared at 76/21-23 mostly 23
C2 ESC
Novak Mercury receiver
Futaba Standard servo

-1 camber front
-3 camber rear (we have banked slopes)

M3 Bowtie rear tires (hard inserts)
Team Losi front tires (stock inserts)

Rear top of shocks all the way in
Rear lower on outer holes
Yellow springs on rear
stock pistons
27.5 oil

Front top of shocks middle
Front lower in middle holes
Orange springs on front
stock pistons
20 oil

1 spacer under the lower part of the wing mounts for more downforce

lots of aluminum :)

[Clod_Killer]

Hey have you guys seen this all Losi forum?
Losi Forum (http://pub46.ezboard.com/blosircforum)

[CWT33]

Now I have Clod..thanks

[Clod_Killer]

That one is having a real rough start. I am thinking about making an all Losi site, with message boards, news, race results, tips, reviews, and more. What do you all think? If you would like to see something like that, what are some things you would like to see it have? Thanks.

[Casper]

Originally posted by makaluch
One more question:

Is a Schottky diode and external cap absolutely necessary with this stock setup ? I had some problems before and was told the Schottky is an absolute necessity with an Atom.

The cap is not absolutly necessary but it helps make the speedo work better by delivering more voltage to the motor. (supposedly) The diode is necessary for the brakes to work properly.

Gearing: yellow spur is 82 and the white spur is 78. A good starting gearing with the GM3 is 21/82 like yoshi said.

[Clod_Killer]

Well guys, here is a start.
Losi World (http://www.action-rc.com/losiworld/index2.htm)

[makaluch]

Thanks for the heads up Casper.

I failed to use the Schottky and blew one of my ESC's :( I never even thought of the reverse voltage the motor delivers while off power and braking....your answer explained alot. Guess I'll just have to send the Cyclone in and opt for the refurbished unit. The Atom survived the voltage assault though. It's working fine.

Thanks again man !

[slowbuggy]

hey, last week i was driving around on a empty strret and then one of the bearings on the rear tire blew up, into multiple peices, is this common?

Also, what is the deal with differentuals, there seems to be alot of talk about them, what are they? how do i know when to rebuild them, how do i build them?

Another thing is that i was reading through the previous posts and people said that they were goinng like 40 MPH?! is that true? how can i get that fast.

Thanx in advance

[crono man]

anybody know of a brand that makes higher quality bearings(i need to replace the big outdrives ones) than the stock units?

thanks:)

[aeb3man_44]

hey guys,

I am most likely going to get the xxx-spec off www.ultimatehobbies.com for 149.99, the best part is is also comes with a p2k2pro and a batt pack, it looks like a great deal, how is this version anyway?

they have the xxxke for 239.99 with a lrp runner esc, looks like a good deal but the esc is not too good.

help me out, who else has good deals?

thanks!

[makaluch]

Get the KE, yellow wheels, and tires/inserts for your track. Then, sell the runner and blue wheels and pick up a better electronic setup...P2K2 Pro/MVP is a better bet in a stock buggy.

You'll have full bearings, threaded shocks, Titanium turnbuckles and top shaft, and graphite galore...plus steel outdrives and driveshafts, descent x-2000 rear tires and ribs up front. The Spec is good,...but not durable enough for racing.

[aeb3man_44]

whats the difference with the blue and yellow wheels?

lol

[makaluch]

You can see the yellows from across the track.

It's really easy to clip pipes into and out of the straightaway with the blue wheels.

[w007yoshi]

I prefer white over yellow BIG TIME :D:D:D:D:D
I feel they look cleaner than the yellow and its not so harsh appearing either.

[rccadude]

Originally posted by w007yoshi
I prefer white over yellow BIG TIME :D:D:D:D:D
I feel they look cleaner than the yellow and its not so harsh appearing either.

Like you said white look cleaner than the yellow as you like to have white teeth instead of yellow teeth. LOL

BTW, I like white,yellow, blue, red wheels. But I dont like to race with white wheels. It will sore my eyes when I am serious to race at indoor track. I rather to race with yellow and blue wheels. I have not try red wheels. If I get XXXT then I will be glad to try with red wheels. :cool:

[tonylukes]

does anyone know the screw size for mounting the motor to the motor plate? thanks!

dave

[Casper]

Motor screws are 5-40. I am not totally sure of the length but they are around 3/8.

[Gutter Ball]

I actually prefer the older 5 star yellow mags :) I buy them up whenever I can find them. I think the mags look cool on the XXX. Everybody else at my track hates them though.

[Casper]

The old losi mags are cool but they flex too much and are standard width. I use only the dish wheels since they are wider.

[tonylukes]

Will XXX dish wheels fit on the XX? I cant find any white wheels for my XX :(

[Casper]

Yes they will. You might need to replace the cap head screws the mount the bottom of the shocks to button head screws but the wheels will fit.

[losifreak2004]

HAHA....I have so many pairs of the old 5 spoke wheels it's ridiculous.

Casper - is Dunford still bitter over the B-main in gas truck? LOL....will you be at the SoCal Supercross?

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Aaron-- He got over it pretty quick. It just sucked that he worked so hard over the last 5-7 min of that race to catch back up and then get wheeled on the straight! Its all good.

Yeah we will both be running the supercross. I will be running stock buggy and truck and I do not know what Ryan in planning on running.

[24601]

Hey guys,
well, I have read through a bunch of this thread (not all--it is too long!!) and I am the owner of a new XXX Kinwald.

I have really enjoyed my Francis Truck, so I was excited to get the buggy. This thing is super nice. It handles like a dream. I love it!

I did notice that with the small spur gear it seems impossible to go anything smaller than a 20 tooth pinion. I wondered if some of you go to a larger spur to be able to use smaller pinions.

I also had a hard time with the shock tower screws. I ended up replacing them with caphead screws and washers. Anyone have an opinion on this?

This buggy is just too cool. I am racing in a stock class at an indoor track, somewhat smooth and hard packed. I have only used the kit tires so far and it was a dream.

[AssociatedRacer]

ya, the only thing that the spur is good for is stock, other wise its to small..BTW...make sure you use a BK pitch pinion...its a BK pitch spur...

as for the schock tower screw, not sure which one u talking about..

[24601]

Funny, I am using a standard 48 pitch pinion and no mesh problems. There is no mention of the spur being BK that I have seen.

I was talking about the screws that hold the front shock tower on.

[Gmanlusk2004]

I got a XXX as soon as it came out ( i also own a B3 and wanted them both so i got the losi too)
Anyways, i just upgraded to a 10X2 custom-made motor that puts out around 55,000 rpm's. I'm using 2400 nicd's and a novad dually esc. What i am wondering is, what is the best pinion for me to use. I am using the stock spur and running an 18 tooth pinion. I have a 26, 20, 18, and 16 tooth pinion... Should i put a new spur on there? or should i get a new pinion.
Thanks,
Garrett


P.S. I am selling my B3, gonna get the new b4 when it comes out.

[AssociatedRacer]

hey, if your using the stock spur, then use the chart in teh manual for recommended gearing. And, the BK pitch pinion meshes well, but then it grinds away over time...i learned the hard way...for the front shock tower, sorry, cant help u there, i just use nice wrench sets, like the hudy ones, and always pretap where u can

[Railman]

Motor mount screws ( motor can thread) are metric. If I remember right they are 1 1/2 mm, but I may be wrong about the 1 1/2mm size. 5-40 screws might fit, but that's not what they are tapped at.
Joe

[24601]

I checked the manual. the spur is 48 pitch. It is spelled out in several places.

[AssociatedRacer]

Hey, i just realized u might not have hte kinwald edition

[24601]

Yes, I have the Kinwald and it is definitely a 48 pitch gear. Key #106 in the manual. Part #a-3932--78T 48-Pitch Spur Gear.

To include a BK pitch would be silly. How many people have those pinions laying around? People would not be happy. The issue here has nothing to do with mesh, it is with the amount of space available to move the motor. bascially, the slots are not long enough to accomidate a smaller pinion with the stock spur.

[Backfire]

I agree with 24601. The stock gear for a XXXKE is a white Losi spur, 78 tooth, 48pitch. And I found it to be quite useless as well, even for stock. I usually run an 82 tooth gear which allows me to run as small a pinion as needed. The BK pitch gears are a Trinity product aren't they? The pitch on those is somewhere between 48 and 64 I believe, and you wouldn't want to mix any of different pitch together.

[Casper]

Yeah the BK pitch is a trinity product. Other then Lunsford Ti rods and MIP CVD's all the hope ups are losi products. Run the 82 spur as it is more universal. I am not sure why they give you the 78 but around the time the KE came out team drivers were fooling around with different spurs to change the wieght distribution in the rear of the car. Most everyone I know uses an 82. BK pitch is cool but I did not want to buy a whole new set of pinions. 48 works just fine for me.

[24601]

Yeah, I know a guy who only uses BK, and he tried to get me to change, but too many pinions to buy when I already have 48 pitch.

[SirSpeedy]

Motor Screws are 3mm thread. The hex size on the wrench used to turn them is 2.5mm.

[aeb3man_44]

hey,
I got my XXX-Spec a couple weeks ago and i have this setup

XXX-spec
Mc330cr esc
Futaba magnum sport am
Trinity p2k2pro 22/87 gearing
Pro match 1700 battery

with this it runs like a dream, stock is cool.
I can't wait to drive it on the track.

:D :D

[24601]

I am really loving my xxx-ke. I got street tires for it and hit the pavement. I knw this is an off-road racer but it handles great on the pavement. On the track it was a dream. So smooth, corners on rails. THis thing is sweet.

[slowbuggy]

where did you get the street tires?

[24601]

They were at my LHS, but I had seen them in the RCCA mag on a proline ad before. I thing they are road hawgs, or road rage, I don't remember.

http://community.webshots.com/user/tadsdad100

Look there for some pics of the car in the Losi folder.

[archon]

Hello,

Im looking for the instructions to the xxx-4. Losi shipped my kit without them and they cant get them to me for another week. If you could fax or email me a copy tonight I would be happy to send you $20 through paypal or something.

Thanks,

Mark

PS. Please reply to me via email. My address is mr@vpc.net, phone may be easier 818-776-0161.

[24601]

Hey guys, maybe you all can give me some tips here.

I was racing the xxxKE this weekend, really loving it but looking for a little bit more.

On big sweeping turns (ones that I would like to take full throttle) I seem to be getting a lot of push. The more power I give, the further out it goes. Now, coming into the corner, I sort of have to roll onto the throttle--too much and it wants to spin out. I have also noticed a slight pull to the right when I mash it on a straight (not from trim, tracks true once it gets going).

Right now everything is stock, except the rear tires were some proline fuzzy tires with Trinity bomb one inserts.

BTW--I am running stock class. I feel like I need to get more steering on power without spinning out. Am I at least thinking the right way?

[Casper]

I have a great setup help sheet on my web site. Check it out.

Go to http://home.att.net/~casper04 and look under the "info sheets" section. This will give you some tips to try and get rid of the push.

[24601]

Thanks!

I also wondered if having the diff too tight could be a part of the problem. I have heard of some guys running them as tight as possible, and I'll admit I probably ere on the side of tight, but it seems that might keep it from turning.

BTW--the spring chart excel document downloads as the gear chart.

[Casper]

The spring and the gear chart are on the same Excel spread sheet. The Spring chart is on the bottom if you scroll down on the page. They all fit on one 8.5X11 sheet so you can print it and keep it with your pit stuff! :)

[Casper]

The diff can be part of it. If your diff slips thought it will be toast. I would ask someone else at your track if your diff is too tight to get a second opinion. If you loosen it too much you will slip the diff and it will get all cruchy which is a bad thing too!

[Backfire]

Originally posted by 24601
Hey guys, maybe you all can give me some tips here.

I was racing the xxxKE this weekend, really loving it but looking for a little bit more.

On big sweeping turns (ones that I would like to take full throttle) I seem to be getting a lot of push. The more power I give, the further out it goes. Now, coming into the corner, I sort of have to roll onto the throttle--too much and it wants to spin out. I have also noticed a slight pull to the right when I mash it on a straight (not from trim, tracks true once it gets going).

Right now everything is stock, except the rear tires were some proline fuzzy tires with Trinity bomb one inserts.

BTW--I am running stock class. I feel like I need to get more steering on power without spinning out. Am I at least thinking the right way?

What are you running for front tires? I recognize your screen name from other boards, so I am guessing you race at Mike's in Carrolton? I have had good luck with Losi 7206's in red compound up front, the new 3 rib tires. Actually anything in red or pink will help if you are still running the kit Silver X-tra Wides. You have probably seen alot of the guys also running the extra wide fronts where they cut two tires and glue them together for even more steering. Oh, and are you running Fuzzies or Sq Fuzzies? The sq fuzzies are what most run, sometimes Holeshotes, or Losi Taper pins will work as well.

Are you still running the stock setup? I have had good luck with 27.5 or 30wt and 56's all around. Orange springs up front, pink in back. Middle shock holes in both tower and arm up front, 2 hole in rear tower and inside hole on rear arm. 2B camber location up front, 2A out back. You may wind up changing it, but that has worked well for a couple of us. But the tires will make the biggest difference. I tried that same setup with the kit fronts and it pushed in the sweeper after the straight just like you mentioned.

[24601]

Yes, I am still running the kit fronts, and yes, at Mikes.

I don't remember what fuzzies they are, I just got them. The kit tires were working well, but pretty much had the same issue, so I thought I would try these. They were a little more sticky, had to get used to them. I am still not sure which I like better.

I am going to print out your list there and see how it compares to me.

Can you explain the cutting the tires thing?

[Backfire]

Originally posted by 24601
Can you explain the cutting the tires thing?

Basically, they cut one sidewall off of each tire, and then glue the remaining portions of the two tires together to make a very wide multirib tire. You need to start with two sets of tires, cut the sidewalls, glue together, and you are left with one set of very wide tires. Next time you are there, look at a few of the buggies that seem to have an extremely wide fronts. You will see what I mean.

With that said, there is no reason to go through that much effort if you haven't tried anything other than the kit fronts. Going to pink or red front will put you in much better shape, and give you a better place to start tuning you suspension. Without decent tires, I tried adjusting everything and couldn't get it to hold a line in the corners.

[24601]

Is that legal (not that they really inforce many rules, but, you never know.)

Seems like an end way around. I think I'll try some other things before I get there.

[Backfire]

I believe it is legal as long as the overall width doesn't exceed the max. At the regionals, one guy lost a qualifying time because he ran those tires and didn't pass tech. He was actually cutting some of the new 3 rib tires and wound up with a 5 rib setup:D Many guys up there have tried and like them, but if you are still sorting things out you could wind up with an oversteer condition from too much steering. I would just stick to some better off the shelf fronts for a while until you get more familiar with the setup.

[aeb3man_44]

here is my xxx-spec

now it has

futaba am tx and rx
novak hammer pro esc (it really hammers)
pro match 1700 battery

[losimaniac87]

Hey I'm new to the boards but certainly not new to R/C! Ok I have a XXX KE thats basically bone stock since there's no need for hopups on it hehe. I have the following for my gear:

-P94 10T Double
-Futaba 3PDF w/ the servo and micro receiver that comes with it
-Trinity Team Matched 2400's (side x side)

The car ran great all last year on a track thats mainly built for gas cars. Heres the link - www.dirtburners.org - we are located in St. Louis, MO and have a turnout of about 75-80 guys every saturday and tuesday.

Due to my local track being mainly for gas, the jumps are huge and rough! Do you guys have any suggestions for jumping most of the jumps. I roll most of them becuase I don't want to crash and ruin my qualifier/main. Whenever I launch off the jumps, the XXX tends to barrel roll or the nose points up into the air. I compensate and put on the brakes to bring the nose down but it still doesn't work. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[Jack1]

any one know the internal ratio of the XXX KE ...

[Casper]

Jack1-- 2.43:1

[24601]

Hey guys, thought I would give you an update.

Just by switching to red fronts from the kit silvers made a huge difference. I really liked them. At first I was even getting a little too much steering, but I think a few radio adjustments will take care of that. I tried to look for come of those glued tires, but didn't see any (at least that I could notice.) Guess I will have ot look again next time.

I did have on thought, what about cutting down truck fronts? You could take a ribbed tire and basically have ribs all the way down the sidewall. They would be mch rounder, which might be good or bad. Just a thought, I remember some guys using truck tires for 1/8th.

[steamer70]

Hello does anyone know where I can get front and rear hubs spindels or carriers made in aluminum for the xxxt? or any hop ups in aluminum for that matter?
Thanks

[Casper]

Trinity makes them in there Team Kinwald line of parts. The rear ones are nice because they give you a vertical ball stud in the rear which you can use for changing the roll center of the car. The front ones are for show. Just about everyone I know that got them switched back to the stock ones. Trinity also makes an aluminium front bulkhead and a alum rear pivot block. Both I recommend. The rest of the trinity blue stuff is just for show. It will add more weight then it will ever benefit in performance. If you are looking for show then they may be worth looking into.

[Casper]

I just wanted to remind all that the front carriers are only for the XXX-T and not the XXX.

[fastharry]

gentlemen...I cant believe it,but after 70 rc cars,I bought my first losi.....and I have to tell you,I like it(I've just started to biuld).....


2 quick questions....the rear hub carrier the rear pivot blockthat trinity makes.....get the 2 degree one ,right(that matches the kit,right?)


also,exactly how good are the rear tires.....I run at barnstormers in NY..its an indoor surface,and usually lacks for traction..Can get dusty,a little top soil on it...and mild ruts and jumps.....everyone uses teh Ifmar pins(r).....but according to Losi's tire chart,thats teh wrong tire..they recomend the stock tire for just about every surface.....

yes,I know ,follow what everyone is doing...but what fun is that?...


thanks....

[Casper]

The 2 deg anti squat pivot block is the one that you want and it is the stock one. It sounds like x-2000's would work well. They work on most surfaces. I am not sure what compound would work the best. Usually red but for indoor clay type tracks pink works well. I have like pink in all indoor tracks I have driven in so far. I would have ifmar pins on hand though if that is what everone runs. holeshots will work anywhere also if you want to be different.

[fastharry]

thanks casper.....I'm going to order the trinity rear pivot MON..also,teh shock collars...anything else worth getting?...(front bulkead,battery strap,etc?)........


BTW,does Losi have rear toe options?.....I noticed on losi's site,that Brian kinwald 3degree toe in teh rear...

thanks?...
and I have to tell you,I'm pretty impressed with this kit as far as fit and finish.....

[Casper]

Stock toe-in is 3 deg. They do have 1 deg rear hubs but those are usually only used by the gas guys. I like the trinity rear hubs. they give you a vertical ball stud in the rear which is another tuning option. Get ti ball studs for the front bulkhead (long ones) and some med ones for the rear shock tower. The front bulkhead is nice but not totally necessary. The rest of the trinity stuff just adds weight. (the shock collars and rear pivot block are a must! If you were impressed buy putting the kit together I cannot wait for your comments after you drive it!:D

[fastharry]

if the pivot block is 2 degrees stock,how are they getting 3 degrees toe in?.....trinity make 0 degree and 2 degree rear hubs...which ones for stock running?....thanks....

BTW,had any experiance with pro line tires?.....the track we run on is far from blue groove.....sort of rutty,dusty,but can pack up the tires sometimes...most of teh guys are running IFMAR pins and big shots...I was thinking Pro line step pins or Bow ties...

[Casper]

The pivot block has 2 deg of ANTI SQUAT. This is the angle the arms are from parallel to the ground. If you look close the front of the arm will be higher then the rear of the arm. This causes the car to resist squating under acceleration. All of the XXX pivot blocks have 3 deg of toe in built in to them. There is not an option that I have seen to fix this. With the old XX you could run the stock setup where the toe-in was in the hubs or the 'CR' rear end were the toe-in came from the pivot block like the XXX series of cars has it. I do not know why it is mentioned on the setup sheet. The only way to change the toe in is the buy the 1 deg hubs and that will give you 2 deg total toe-in or 4 deg total toe in depending on how you mount them. Trinity sells there aluminum rear hubs with 2 deg of toe-in to you could get up to 5 deg or as little and 1 if you really wanted to. This is not something typically adjusted on electric cars. You want the 2 deg pivot block because with the included 2 deg wedges you can run 0, 2, or 4 deg of anti squat with the 2 deg block (2 deg ie no wedges is stock but this is a neat thing to play with and I am running 0 deg in my truck) Trinity also sells a 0 deg anti squat pivot block but it limits your tuning ablity. I hope this clears that up.