Mugen MBX5 Buggy Forum v1.0

[not.enough.toys]

I agree, ditch the orings. Stock setup is 3,3,1 with orings in the front and center diffs. This would be similar to 10,10,1 without orings. The orings add that much resistance.

[speedydave]

Alright, looks like I'll rebuild my diffs and ditch the o-rings.

How often do you guys take your aluminum clutches apart and de-glaze the shoes/clutchbell? When you do, do you just use a wire wheel on a dremel to de-glaze them, do you sand them, or what? Thanks.

[fezzy]

I have used shock socks on my H7, They are the biggest waste of time EVER.... They do indeed effect the shock action, I noticed mine where much firmer with them rather than without, This means you can't tune your shocks half as easily, Also they did more harm than good to my shocks when using them... What I found is that dirt gets into the gap in the spring retainer and is then mashed into the shock seals on the bottom of the body, And because its all enclosed the dirt can't go anywhere, Just gets forced into the O-Rings and Shock body. I now run with no protection at all, And its by far the safest and best way.

[not.enough.toys]

You could use a flat file to deburr your clutch shoes. As to when to do this, it all depends on driving habits and how much you drive. I would check them about the half gallon mark, and then go from there.

[OldskoolGT]

Originally posted by fezzy
What I found is that dirt gets into the gap in the spring retainer and is then mashed into the shock seals on the bottom of the body.

That does happen. I run the sock around the outside of the spring retainer to minimize the amount of dirt getting in.

I don't think the clutch bell or shoes need de-glazing when you use aluminum shoes. They do need to be de-burred fairly often though, maybe once after a day of racing.

[OldskoolGT]

The receiver antenna can easily fall through the antenna tube and get tangled in the rear axle. This happened to me and caused a FULL THROTTLE runaway when the antenna wire broke. You can easily prevent this by either fastening the wire to the top of the tube, or using a small zip tie to secure the wire to the spring holder.


So how did everyone do with their MBX5s this weekend?

I think I took 4th place with mine. I was in a good battle for 2nd place until a rock got jammed in the rear wheel. locking it up.


Changing the diff oils to 5/7/3 and taking out the o-rings really made a huge difference in the buggy. It actually steers now! :)

[nad138]

Also had a decent showing yesterday (was running 3rd-Sportsman but had to drop down due to engine problems). I just really didn't have a good first heat as somebody turned on their radio making my ride go out of control....as in few out of the track and almost hit some bystanders.

[FlyinRazorback]

I qualified 3rd and finished 1st in the 20 min. main this weekend. Three races so far with the X5 and I have 2 first place finishes and 1 third place finish. The best I ever did with my XR was 2nd.

[nad138]

Let me ask you dudes about your brake bias, which has more on your ride ?

[FlyinRazorback]

I prefer rear bias.

[OldskoolGT]

My brakes are adjusted something like 70/30, front to rear. I like for my buggy to go straight while I am applying the brakes because I slow down before the corners. Might have to give the rear brake bias a try though.


Ace Hobbies has the new aluminum parts for the X5. Here's the link:


http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=88_263&osCsid=2e459290a2e2bc92783f3ed09541076d

[NoleC5]

Well, I decided to go with a MBX5 and got it on Saturday. I've been working all weekend on putting it together but I've hit a little hic up.

Has anyone had any problems scewing the servo saver onto the chasis? One side of it screws it nice and smooth with no problems, on the other side (the one without the spring), the screw will not go more than 1/4 of the way into the saft through the chasis. I'm wondering if I could have got a bad part or if I could have done something wrong. The screw sizes that I'm using are correct.

I don't know what options I have??? This shaft (for the side without the spring), is this something I can buy seperately?? I'm not to sure what to do at this point??

[needinpower]

Today I had my first race and for some reason they dumped me in the main. A few engine probs but finished 9th overall (out of 15) so i'm pretty happy.

Apologies for the needless posting but i'm a little excited.

Nole,
Take it apart and see if you can put the screw in when it's disassembled. It sounds like it's cross-threaded. Also check the depth of the hole with a small piece of wire. I know you checked that you had the right bolt but can you tell me the size you're trying to use?

WoooooHooooo,
Buggies rock and the X5 showed up a few KII's today :D :D :D

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by needinpower
Today I had my first race and for some reason they dumped me in the main. A few engine probs but finished 9th overall (out of 15) so i'm pretty happy.

Apologies for the needless posting but i'm a little excited.

Nole,
Take it apart and see if you can put the screw in when it's disassembled. It sounds like it's cross-threaded. Also check the depth of the hole with a small piece of wire. I know you checked that you had the right bolt but can you tell me the size you're trying to use?

WoooooHooooo,
Buggies rock and the X5 showed up a few KII's today :D :D :D

The size screw (for both sides) are 4x10 per the manual. I have tried to put the screw in the shaft while disasembaled and I get the same thing, it will only go about half way.

If it is cross threaded like you say, what are my options? Is this a part that I can easily purchase to replace?

Thanks for the help!

Oh, and congrats on the race! I can't wait to get mine out there!!

[needinpower]

If it's cross-threaded, I say don't mess with it. Just order the new part from your LHS or Ace Hardware Hobbies. I've found these guys to be very helpful.
If the thread is damaged, it will feel tight when it goes in. This is NOT a plastic part so the screw should screw in easily. Also if it's a damaged thread you should notice when you put the screw in it will be on an angle. This is not good and if this is the case, you could try to insert the screw making sure it's straight but for peace of mind at the track??? buy a new one.

Is this your first buggy??

[OldskoolGT]

NoleC5,

Just use a shorter screw or cut the 4x10 screw shorter so it fits.

[eb4kidd12]

yup, after this weekend i did pretty good. I'm only 15 and i run an o.s. rg with a jr radio and got into the a-main and finished 4th place. Pretty good i supose since im against 30 yearold guys with rb engines producin 2.5 hp. I ran the proline knuckles xtr and man thoughs tires are amazing. Best grip ever, the back under full throtle off of a turn would never slide around the car was glued to the ground. I recomend them to anyone. i run the stock shock oil and sway bars, use 7,000 in front 3000 with a pinhc of grease on gears in center and 1,000 in the rear.

[OldskoolGT]

eb4kidd12,

As you have discovered, you really don't need a high dollar engine to race competitively. Even on really big tracks the RG is a good performer and will only lose ground to the high dollar engines on really long straightaway sections. Get a Nova head for your RG if you are still running the stock head though, it works wonders.


nad138,

Did you make it up to OKC for the Nitro Invitationals? It was a great weekend of racing.

[eb4kidd12]

Man im pissed, i ran my buggy last night on my street and i had braking problems than it wouldn't stop as well not even the front wheels would lock up like usual. Anyway so i stopped it and then i just rolled it it was very ruff, so i took out the motor and took off the clutch bell and the bearings just fell apart. It turns out there was some dirt in there, the shielded bearings arn't the greatest they should have put in rubber sealed for this place.

[nad138]

O.GT, I wished I did but had so family stuff that needed attention last weekend. I haven't heard from the guys here at H-town yet on how they did but I'm sure everyone had a blast out there. How'd you do ?

My throttle finger already feels the itch which i plan to soothe this coming weekend at our THRC race. Try to come down here if you can or checkout the schedule at teamhoustonrc.com and see if any fits your schedule. November's Houston Open will probably be the biggest.

[OldskoolGT]

nad138, I took 6th place in Sportsman Buggy. I *barely* squeaked into the A main by taking the second bump up spot in the B. Luck was definitely on my side this past weekend, the only mechanical issue I had was a blown glow plug. I'll definitely be making the trip down to Houston for some racing sooner or later.

[speedydave]

EB4, I've found that rubber sealed clutch bearings blow up more than metal shielded. It's a very high-heat, high-stress area, so every little bit counts.

[Digimortal]

My mbx5 kit should be coming in either tomorrow or the next day. I've built a car kit"associated rc10" a while back about 7 years ago and I remember using locktite on all the bolts that went into the chassis itself. I can't remember if I used locktite anywhere else. I've read that the plans do not tell the builder where to put locktite because they are probably expecting the builder to be pretty experienced with building kits. I've been spoiled lately with buying traxxas kits that are already built for you.lol I am ready to buy something that is going to be awesome for racing competitively, that is why I am going with the mbx5. Anyway, back to my question, is there certain areas besides the chassis screws where I should use locktite also? Thanks in advance.

[speedydave]

Any screw that threads into metal should be loctited. Setscrews in the CVD's, engine mount screws(both the screws that hold the engine to the mount, and the screws that hold the mount to the chassis), etc.

[Digimortal]

Thanks, a little common sense should have told me that one.lol Anyway, I've been reading the article in the latest RC CarAction magazine on the mbx5 and noticed that the writers name is Steve Pond. That wouldn't happen to be the same Steve Pond that I see posting on this board every now and then would it? Anyway, in this article it says that it would be a good idea to ditch the orings in the 11T diff gears to ensure that the diff will be as free as it can be. Have any of yall tried this? Should I just ditch the O-rings like the article says? Anything that can increase the performance I am all for. Thanks again.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Digimortal
Thanks, a little common sense should have told me that one.lol Anyway, I've been reading the article in the latest RC CarAction magazine on the mbx5 and noticed that the writers name is Steve Pond. That wouldn't happen to be the same Steve Pond that I see posting on this board every now and then would it? Anyway, in this article it says that it would be a good idea to ditch the orings in the 11T diff gears to ensure that the diff will be as free as it can be. Have any of yall tried this? Should I just ditch the O-rings like the article says? Anything that can increase the performance I am all for. Thanks again.

I've been wondering about these O - Rings also? I'm still a newbie but this is my second car that I've built. I'm about 2/3 done with building it, but I did install the orings in the diffs as outlined in the instructions. Is this a good idea or should they be removed?

I've noticed on this car, when I roll one of the wheels with my hand, all three of the other wheels turn in the same direction. This is not the case with my Kyosho 7.5, they turn in oposite directions.

Any tips here???

[eb4kidd12]

keep your o-rings in there if you run a thinner oild, but if not it depends on what you want basically or what your used to driving, i run 7,000 with o-rings in front 3,000 w/o-rings in center and 1,000 in rear without o-rings, and it works great my car never slips out under me.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by eb4kidd12
keep your o-rings in there if you run a thinner oild, but if not it depends on what you want basically or what your used to driving, i run 7,000 with o-rings in front 3,000 w/o-rings in center and 1,000 in rear without o-rings, and it works great my car never slips out under me.

Can I get an explination of what the O rings are there for? I set mine up with 3000, 5000 and 10000 (front to rear) and installed the o rings per the instructions. Don't remember right now which diffs they were installed in.

[OldskoolGT]

The o-rings add ressistance, to slow down the diff action. It sort of makes the diff oil feel thicker. Many people don't use them.

[MBX4RR]

Does anyone have a Ofna Hyper .21? If so what kind of pipe do you use ? I have an RB and the header is to close to the pull start and it melts it.:(

[Digimortal]

Well, I guess I'll just go with the o-rings since that is what the instructions say to do. I also read that the instructions do not tell you where to apply grease. This may sound like a dumb question but it has been so long since I have built anything that required grease. So is there any crucial parts on the car where I should be applying grease where it may not say anything about it in the plans? I apologize for the dumb question, I just want to make sure I build this thing right. Thanks.

[brknwheel]

O-rings? No, I don't use them. 5000F, 7000M, 2000B in the diffs.

Grease? I use a silicone grease (green slime) on o-rings that seal the diff shafts and shock shafts. I use a synthetic black high temp, high pressure grease on CVDs, front & back ring and pinions and I remove the shields from the clutch bearings, put some in there, and reinstall the shields.

[nad138]

One of the reasons I think why Mugen put the o-rings on the diffs is to lessen movement (longitudinal) thus prevents premature wear on the gears. At the same time, as others noted, it adds resistance to the diff action. I started on having them on both my front and center but were having understeer problems before, and now I only have the o-rings on my center diff (5k-7k-1k).

As for the grease (high temp), I also put them on my front and back ring and pinion gears.

[Digimortal]

Well heck, after reading all these posts about people ditching their o-rings I guess I'll do the same then. Well, my kit finally came in today. The instructions are easier than I thought they would be. It says to use 3000 for front and center and 1000 for rear. Now that I am completely ditching the o-rings would it be okay to keep this the same? Thanks again. I can't wait to get started. Oh, and I noticed that in the same bag that the silicon and diff. fluid came in was a small round container containing a small amount of yellowish white substance. I take it this is some sort of grease correct? Is it good to use?

[Digimortal]

Okay, it's super joint grease. I've decided to read through the instructions before I start to build it.lol

[OldskoolGT]

Try 5000/7000/2000 (F/C/R) in the diffs. The stock setup is not the greatest.

[Digimortal]

Thanks Oldskool, I'm going to go with that. This means that I will not be able to work on it tonight, bummer. I'll have my hobby shop order me those specific diff silicon oils first thing tomorrow. I noticed their are 2 sets of o-rings for the diffs. I would imagine the larger s5 o-rings would need to stay correct? It's only the smaller s3 rings that I am taking out. Steve pond says to not use them on the 11T diff gears, did he mean the 10T diff gears? I apologize for all these questions, I just want to get this right. Thanks. Hopefully I'll have this thing ready for next week and I can start answering some questions.lol

[OldskoolGT]

Originally posted by Digimortal
. I would imagine the larger s5 o-rings would need to stay correct? It's only the smaller s3 rings that I am taking out.


That is correct. Just take out the 4 small o-rings.

Just build the kit with the #3000 oil front and center and then run the buggy gently for a while (maybe 1/2 gallon) to break in the gears. Then change the diff oil in all the diffs to the 5/7/2 combo. There will be lots of tiny metal particles in the diff oil after you break in the gears, so its a good idea to change the oil after break in.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
That is correct. Just take out the 4 small o-rings.

Just build the kit with the #3000 oil front and center and then run the buggy gently for a while (maybe 1/2 gallon) to break in the gears. Then change the diff oil in all the diffs to the 5/7/2 combo. There will be lots of tiny metal particles in the diff oil after you break in the gears, so its a good idea to change the oil after break in.

Any drawbacks to breaking in the gears wtih the o-rings installed? I'm about 3/4 of the way done building my kit, but I did install the small o rings in the diffs. I'm think that I can break in with the o rings installed and then take them out after break in????

[nad138]

Nole, just go ahead and use the o-rings in the meantime while you're breaking in the buggy. Who knows, you might like it better with those installed. RCCA editor Stephen Bess runs his with the o-rings installed and he's always like a rocket driving his buggy. My base setup is copied from his buggy except that I took out the o-rings in the front.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by nad138
Nole, just go ahead and use the o-rings in the meantime while you're breaking in the buggy. Who knows, you might like it better with those installed. RCCA editor Stephen Bess runs his with the o-rings installed and he's always like a rocket driving his buggy. My base setup is copied from his buggy except that I took out the o-rings in the front.

Thanks for the reply. Does anyone know if there are any setup sheets for the mbx5 on the web anywhere?

[speedydave]

The best place for setups is Starting Grid( www.sgrid.com ). It's not the easiest thing to navigate, but Jason Ashton, Chad Bradley, Kris Moore, etc. post there, so you're guaranteed some good info. The MBX5 thread is in the 2003 offroad conference.

[nad138]

that or go to mugen's main site. their factory team driver's setup is also there.

[Digimortal]

Okay, I've finished putting together all 3 of my differentials. I took out the o-rings and went with a 3,3,1 combination. When I turn the diffs with the 3000 in them I can here slight movement of the gears, but they move pretty smoothly,but whenever I turn the rear diff with the 1000 in it, there is an obvious gear movement sound, and it does not turn nearly as smoothly as the others. Is this normal? I did as the instructions told me too, by filling the diffs up to where the bars cross. Thanks.

[nad138]

D., that's normal. After you've run the buggy for a few tanks, they'll break in nicely and should smoothen them out. Just make sure that the diff action is ok (hold down the spur gear-center, and rotate either left or right tire, the opposite tire should go the other direction, do this on both front and rear).

[OldskoolGT]

X5 setups can be found at:

http://www.mugenracing.com/

in the "what's new" section.

[Mudvayne]

Hey yall, I am about to start working on my mbx5 and have a question. I noticed that the kit comes with everything except for grease. I have a tube of Dielectric Tune-UP Grease. This is a silicone based grease. To me, this grease seems like it would do an excellent job. Would it hurt to use this kind of grease? Thanks in advance.

[speedydave]

Use it for what? The kit includes grease(I think...I used Associated black grease instead), and oils for the diff and shocks.

[Mudvayne]

I was referring to second step in the plans when you have to insert the axle thing" I don't know the name of it" #C0223 into the black differential case. It goes through the bearing. It says in the plans to apply the grease and points to the front of them. I was wondering if there was a certain kind of grease that is supposed to go on there. I have a tube of Dielectric Tune-UP Grease that I was going to use and was wanting to know if this would be okay to use. It's a silicone based grease and in my opinion I think it would work just fine. I could be wrong though. I'm ordering some black associated grease anyway to use on my differential gears, not the inner ones of course. It's just that my hobby shop won't be getting them in until sometime later this week and I am ready to start working on my car. The grease that comes with the kit is super joint grease and they really did not give me much at all.And yes I am using the differential oils that come with the kit for the inside of the diff case. I hope that made sense.lol

[OldskoolGT]

Mudvayne,

you really don't need much grease to build the kit. The tiny amount that comes with the kit should be enough. Grease is grease IMHO, any good quality grease can be used in RC applications.

[codeman]

The 4 larger 'washers' that come in the parts bag with the 8 orings for the 11t diff gears ... I am assuming that is for shimming the tapered collar on the crankshaft forward correct? Still havn't installed an engine yet, and was looking through the manual a few more times to make sure I didn't do anything stupid; and hadn't found any mention of those washers ... they do seem too big though to be used as shims behind the flywheel.

Any ideas? I have yet to open the parts bag with the flywheel etc. or the linage bags, so their not from those bags ... I think they were in bag S if I remember correctly :)

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by codeman
The 4 larger 'washers' that come in the parts bag with the 8 orings for the 11t diff gears ... I am assuming that is for shimming the tapered collar on the crankshaft forward correct? Still havn't installed an engine yet, and was looking through the manual a few more times to make sure I didn't do anything stupid; and hadn't found any mention of those washers ... they do seem too big though to be used as shims behind the flywheel.

Any ideas? I have yet to open the parts bag with the flywheel etc. or the linage bags, so their not from those bags ... I think they were in bag S if I remember correctly :) .

I'm about 99% done building my MBx5 and didn't use these washers either. I flipped through the instructions just like you to make sure I didn't miss something. Hopefully someone will chime in with an answer, b/c I'm not sure what they are for....

[OldskoolGT]

Are you talking about the shims for setting the backlash between the ring and pinion gears (very thin shims with a large inner diameter)?

When your buggy is new, the ring and pinion mesh together really well, so you probably won't need to use the shims yet.

[speedydave]

That's what I was thinking. I figured they were for shimming the F/R diffs, but everything fit fine when I built it. When I take the diffs apart to change the oil and take the o-rings out, I'll check and see if I need them now. Those are DEFINITELY too big to shim the flywheel, though.

[Digimortal]

Well, I'm up to the point on my mbx5 where I need to install the radio. Problem is I don't have the radio yet. I've decided that I am going to go with a JR. I was about to order an xs3 until I heard that there is now an xs3i. Whenever I search on the internet for this radio I cannot find anything on it. How much more is the xs3i than the xs3? Is it much better? I heard that you get alot more channels and you can change channels straight from the radio because the receiver is digital. Is this true? Oh and one last question on the car, I sware,lol, Would it be a good idea to apply some grease to the gears inside of the differential cases? Like if you were to take the front and rear diff cases off of the chassis and look under them, yall know where I'm talking about? I'm not sure on the terminology just yet. I would think it would be a good idea to apply a good bit of grease there in those gears even though it does not say to do that in the plans. Thanks again. By the way, I just want to say this is a great board and am very happy that I found it. Alot of knowledgeable people here.

[LooneyTunes]

I can't help you with the JR stuff. Personally I am looking at putting a Hitec Aggressor CRX in my MBX5. My friend has one and it is sweet.
If you are talking about the ring gear on the diff, I would put some grease there.

LT

[Digimortal]

I was thinking of getting the aggressor crx but have always loved JR stuff. A friend of mine has the crx also and says it is great. I just think that the JR radio feels alot more comfortable in my hand. But we all have different opinions.

[OldskoolGT]

Digimortal,

Are you confusing the XS3 with the XR3i? I don't think there is such a radio as the XS3i. The XS3 is a completely synthesized (crystal-less) system and costs around $220. So on 75 mhz, you can choose from 30 channels. Its a very nice feature which basically guarantees that you can always run at the track when you want. When you change channels, you have to turn 2 small dials on the receiver and push some buttons on the radio to select the channel. Its a good radio which has most of the high end features that are necessary (doesn't have servo speed control or ABS).

And yes, grease the ring and pinion, and make sure the bulkheads are always tightened down because you don't want any dirt getting in there , especially you have grease in there.

[codeman]

Ahh yeah, that makes sense. I kept flipping through that section of the manual (where you build everything into/on the diff cases) for use of them; and I figured at first they must have been included with the origional release of kits which needed them, and kind of thought perhaps they adjusted the cases so you don't need them; but if what you're syaing is right .. thats awesome that they had the foresite to include them for your rebuild to tighten things up. Very cool.

Having not opened the final bags, I also figured perhaps it might be used to shim the flywheel, but you're right ... definitly too large for that.

Now I know what they're use for :D

I was also kind of surprised that:

a)they don't include ball bearings for the brake cams

b) the rear arms are moulded straight, but in using the different block plates to change rear toe push the ends of the rear arms which pivot over the hinge pins at an odd angle in relation to the 'cut' of the suspension arms. They aren't flush with the front and back braces. Would make the plastic wear on only half of the arm, instead of a full contact patch which would be more consistently wearing? Pehaps I'm being **** .. but it also seems that you have to put some force on the end of the pin to push it inwards to ling up with the hole in the bushing. More than likely why guys bushings are wearing out faster than they should.

c)there are a few steps which show inserting pieces backwards to what actually makes sense, and works. (hinge pin bushings on lower arms F/R, brake disc guides etc.)

d) there is a good deal of play upwards and downwards on the ackerman plate.

One cool thing though, is the sizes of the ball bearings .. they are all the same size. Easy to get replacements for :) Although, this could also be a bad thing .. as even my MTX3 kit had some larger bearings than this kit ... might pose a problem?

Overall, sweet ride :) So much nicer looking than any of the other buggies too.

P.S- I used Associated Stealth lube (for the NTC3) on the ring and pinion gears ... its good stuff, and really helps in keeping the temp. down in the gears and minimizing wear.

[needinpower]

Digimortal,

On the grease idea, I agree that a little grease is a good thing BUT, using grease on gears that are exposed to dust or dirt can actually wear your gears down faster than having no grease.

I suggest only using grease if you put a thin film of silicon around the bottom of the diff housing where it sits on the chassis to provide a good seal. I tightened mine down hard as Oldskool said and when disassembling I found the gears had dust on them.

Cheers

[LooneyTunes]

Like needinpower suggested, run a fine film of silicone to seal the diff cases to the chassis plate. I learned the hard way with my Savage. Filled the diff cases with mud. :eek:

I am waiting to get started on my MBX5 this weekend. But I allready painted the body. No window masks! What gives? :rolleyes:

LT

[Digimortal]

Yeah Oldskool, I had them confused. Thanks for the advice on the silicone seal. Looks like I'll be ordering my JR XS3 tomorrow.

[OldskoolGT]

Actually it was needinpower's suggestion for the silicone. :)


I'd suggest everyone check their diffs for leakage. All three of mine are leaking from where the outdrive passes through the diff case or metal gear. After 5 days of racing (roughly 2 gallons), my center diff was less than 1/2 full. Did the MBX4 diffs have a problem with leaking too?

[nad138]

O.GT, mine is leaking in the front (center and rear seems fine). Still haven't stripped it down to check what's causing it.

[OldskoolGT]

I wonder if the leaking is caused by slightly undersized o-rings that seal the outdrives. They seem to fit very loosely into the ring or spur gears. Those o-rings are also much smaller than the o-rings used by other manufacturers to do the same job.

[needinpower]

Mine were almost dry after 3/4 gallon. (Front, center and rear) They seem to be leaking from the gasket on mine but i'm not 100% sure.
While we're on the silicon subject, can I use silicon on that seal or should I use gasket goo?

Thanks

[OldskoolGT]

needinpower,

Silicone will work fine.

Did the screws holding the ring/spur gear on your diffs come loose? The last place the diff should leak at is the gasket.

[speedydave]

Did yours start to feel noticably thinner when you spin the wheels, or did it stay the same but was lower when you took them apart? I know my center diff was leaking a little bit because I overfilled it, but there didn't seem to be any mess, at least in the rear, in the case when I took the rear end off the buggy, so i don't think mine is leaking.

[needinpower]

Oldskool,
No, the screws were really tight. Maybe some sealant will do the trick.

Dave,
I didn't notice any mess with my diffs either which is why I was surprised to see them empty. The main reason I noticed it was because in the last 10 laps it was extremely loose in the rear.

I also noticed when I pulled them down the remaining oil was a little dark. I guess from the new gears meshing in.

[OldskoolGT]

The oil in the diffs will always become discolored since the gears are made from soft aluminum. If you could somehow manage to keep all the oil in the diffs for several gallons, it would turn into a nasty black color.

[speedydave]

Oh well, I was planning on rebuilding the diffs anyway(to take the S3 o-rings out of the front and center diffs, and to get out the oil from break-in and put new oil in). Are you guys running 5-7-3 or 5-7-1? I was running 5-7-1 and was pushing until I added some toe-out(1 or 2 deg.), and now it steers fine, but I'm thinking maybe when I take the orings out of the front diff, it will steer better. Right? Sorry, I just went into autopilot while typing that, pretty tired. Hope it all made sense. :)

[OldskoolGT]

I run #5000/7000 front and center. In the rear I am running a mix of #3000 and #1000 to get something around #2000.

After you remove the o-rings from the front, I believe off power steering will improve.

[NoleC5]

A little off of the current subject, I'm having some trouble getting my throttle linkage set correctly. Does anyone have any pics of this setup? It seems that when I give it full throttle, everything rolls fine, but when the servo comes back to neutral, there is still pressure on the break linkages and the wheels/clutchbell do not roll freely. What am I missing here? I'm planning on buying a new throttle servo on the way home tonight. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[nad138]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT

After you remove the o-rings from the front, I believe off power steering will improve.

That is what I noticed when I took mine off, plus left 1 small clip for the caster in the front. But I still feel a slight push when I exit the corner with a feathered throttle. Will try to experiment with the shock mount position next but all in all, I like my 5-7(with o-rings)-1 setup.

[speedydave]

Nole, most likely the sliding collars secured with setscrews on the brake linkage are set too far inward, which is causing the brakes to drag at idle. Here's a pic for ya anyway...Let me know if you need a more detailed pic.

[nad138]

speedydave, cool idea with that TRS.

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, man this buggy is kickin ass, ive broke nothing in 2 months of owning it, it takes alot of abuse at the track. Better than alot of the other guys cars, and the acceleration kicks ass, but to bad winters just around the corner so no more running this thing.

[Digimortal]

What's wrong with running in the winter time? Are you from up north where it snows or something? I really can't wait for my radio to come in so I can finish and tear up the track with mine.:D

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by speedydave
Nole, most likely the sliding collars secured with setscrews on the brake linkage are set too far inward, which is causing the brakes to drag at idle. Here's a pic for ya anyway...Let me know if you need a more detailed pic.

Speedydave...thank you very much. Which spring did you use for your throttle return spring?

I think I'm having problems with my servo now too. I just bought a new hitech for the throttle, think it was the 625. When I give it full throttle, everything works good. But after I apply the break, it does not return back to the netural position I had it set at, it brings it back to about 1/2 throttle......

[eb4kidd12]

thats your instalation problem, your servo propably wasnt centered when you put on the arm, take it off, then on your radio center the throtelle servo at zero, then put the arm back on and it should work fine, had the same problem with my sterrin servo on my other buggy.

[speedydave]

That's a Losi spring I cut down to have enough tension to return the servo to idle. The Losi spring kit comes with two springs and two of the little mounts, but as you can see, I used both mounts to get it to work in the buggy.

[Bus Driver]

Here is a vidio of my qualifier in the region 1 regionals.

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/bdregional.wmv

This is a big file so right click on it and save as then view the vid.

[OldskoolGT]

Thanks for sharing. :)

So how did you do in the main?

[eb4kidd12]

yea man that was some kick ass drivin, i wish i had that good accelration with mine but i only run an o.s. rg.

[NoleC5]

So what do you guys think? Is the MBX5 the best buggie out there right now? Does it surpass the abilities of the K2? Is it the car to beat right now? I have an MBX5 and plan on racing it for the first time this weekend, so I will report back on how it goes.

[brknwheel]

In my opinion the Mugen is the best buggy for the dollar amount spent. It's slightly less expensive than a K2, and it is pretty much on the same level as a K2. It handles good, it's durable, the Mugen has my vote for best buggy.

[OldskoolGT]

NoleC5,

Your probably going to get a lot of pro-Mugen responses seeing how this is the Mugen MBX5 forum.

Both cars have their good points and bad points. The "best" buggy is whatever works best for you. The X5 is an great buggy though. I love the light weight, pivot ball suspension, split center diff mount, and the replacable bushings for the parts that hold hinge pins.

Judging by big race wins, the K2 is still the buggy to beat.

[NoleC5]

Okay, so I guess the Mugen still has some proving to do. But I agree with you oldschool, I love the split center diff mount. And I realize that there will be a lot of pros here on the mbx5 board. But I had a 7.5 with many K2 hop ups and didn't have much luck with it, it kept breaking.

Now for another question. I went to my local track tonight and ran my MBX5 for the first time. The track was pretty loose and dry and I was using the stock tires that come with the kit. I also have the stupid small o rings installed in the front and center diffs as instructed in the instructions. I alos am running 3000/5000/1000 diff oils (front to rear).

While driving the car, the back end seemed really loose, wanting to spin out a lot. Is this a direct result of the O rings being installed into the diffs? Or could it have just been the track conditions?

Thanks

[OldskoolGT]

Give the buggy some time for the suspension to loosen up. When it is new, the suspension is not very compliant because everything is too tight and stuff binds. Noncompliant suspension = less traction.

I believe some of the looseness also comes from the excessively thick rear sway bar. It's so thick that it completely eliminates independent suspension action. LOL.

[Bus Driver]

Yeah I put a 2.3mm sway bar on the rear and it makes a great difference.If you are on a real bumpy track go with out a sway bar in the rear.

[Bus Driver]

Here is some vidieo from or home track Full Throttle Raceway.This was last years Fall Classic.The world known Dave henry was there.If yopu guys have seen the triple x main vidieos you know him.Here is a couple of laps with dave henry.

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/FTR5.wmv

By the way he is sponsered and is driving a kyoslow.

[Bus Driver]

Same track just older and or local hobby shop owner laying the smackdown.The guy on the mic is me.

http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/ftr823.wmv

http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/ftr8232.wmv

[eb4kidd12]

Well i'm headin out today for the illinois state championship race today with my buggy, can't wait till see how i do, if i get into the a-main my dads buyin a reciver so cant wait till i see. And with the issue on the mbx5 not winning races, its not really about the car, it's mostly the driver, because my friends got a hyper 7 pro, everything identical on his car , engine radio and etc, and im still faster than him by a lap, so if alot of the peopl that race infernos raced mbx5's im pretty sure that we would see them on the 1st place list.

[OldskoolGT]

Its time for a race report eb4kidd12.

[eb4kidd12]

sorry it took so late, well i didn't win in first place but i did come in 5th place,in the a-main so im pretty proud of myself. All the other guys were 30 or 40 and i was 15, and they had better engines, but i was only 3 laps behind the winner. It was fun to bad the main was only 15 mins long. So i'm 5th in illinois state championship, gettin the mugens noticed out there, cuz they are the best cars.

[NoleC5]

Well, I raced my MBX5 for the first time this weekend and did very well, if I do say so myself.

A little background: This was the third time I have raced, overall. I've raced once in novice with a MP7.5 and once in 1/8th scale with the MP7.5. I won the A Main in Novice and finshed 3rd in the B Main in the 1/8th scale race.

So this weekend was the third time I have raced, overall, and only the second time I've had the MBX5 on the track. There were only two heats of 1/8th scale, each with only 5 cars. I finished first in all three of the heat races but when the Main rolled around, they put all 10 cars in the A Main. I've never run in a 20 min race before, which the A Main was, and finished first!!! It was absolutely awesome!! I can't remember having that much fun in a long time!!! Here is a link to the A Main results.

http://www.jlapracemanager.com/PC/SugarBowl/09_06_2003_M%20Race%20%23%20%205%20-%20A%20Main%20-%201%208th%20OffRoad%20Buggies.HTM

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by Bus Driver
Here is a vidio of my qualifier in the region 1 regionals.

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/bdregional.wmv

This is a big file so right click on it and save as then view the vid.

You think that buggy was fast huh? Look at this OFNA 9.5! It was faster! Much faster! LOL


Click here for a faster run same race. (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/whiteregional1.wmv)

[Bus Driver]

lol,Boy that race was clean.Just amagine what kind of laps I would have done if I was in that heat.lol

[codeman]

So what engines are all you guys running?

I've been wanting to grab either an OS VB-Z or an RB WS7II, or perhaps just go with what everybody suggest and go with the P5 =)

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by codeman
So what engines are all you guys running?

I've been wanting to grab either an OS VB-Z or an RB WS7II, or perhaps just go with what everybody suggest and go with the P5 =)

I'm using an RB WS 7II! Have about a gallon through it and love it so far!

[needinpower]

RB 5 port sport (The cheap one)
Nothing has passed me yet.
My original idea was to run this engine so I could get used to driving an R/C car (This is my first one) and now i'm racing, I can honestly say that no one has passed me with power. Only driving skill.
I've really opened some eyes at the track and got some people, including myself, asking what's all the fuss over the powerful engines?
I'm running 30% powermaster at 200 degrees with a Nova head.
I will say the other engines are definately faster but on the track it's useless. My track has about an 80' straight and I can hold with a Sirio, WS7, C5 and the new O.S.
Cheers

[OldskoolGT]

The RB 5 port is a really good engine. It has a better powerband than a S7 IMHO.

For you to really start seeing the difference in engines top end power, you probably need a straight that is double the length of what your track has.

[needinpower]

Oldskool,
another thing I didn't mention is acceleration. I'm on par with the big boys on hard packed and loose sand surfaces. They spin alot and I don't. Granted they have a heap more power, but unless you can get it to the ground........

To anyone that wants to kill me for talking nonsense,
I'm definately NOT pitching the engine just because i've got it. i can spend $600 on an engine tomorrow if I want. I just don't see the point. (on my track)
Food for thought on your next engine purchase. ;)

[Bus Driver]

You are right about the power of a motor.Thats why guys with the o.s motors usally do better.They have all the power but the power band of an os is not equaled.I run an s7 and it has tone of power.Just a little tougher to drive then an o.s but once you can drive look out.

[OldskoolGT]

RB 5 port has plenty of power. I think its compares well to engines in the $250 range once you replace the tiny cooling head.

I plan on making my WS7 into a "WS5" by putting the 5 port sleeve in.

[Digimortal]

Well guys, I was thinking of buying a RB WS7II to put on my mbx5. After seeing the price of $415 I'm starting to have second thoughts though.lol Is there any engine maybe in the $200 to $250 price range that will do a good job? I'm looking for some mean low end with decent top end. Low end is more important to me though. Thanks in adcance.

[Digimortal]

Is the price of that engine $415? I'm now reading somewhere where it is $235. I'm confused.:confused:

[OldskoolGT]

The cheapest I have seen WS72s go for is somewhere in the low $300 range. RB really jacked up the price over the old WS7. The WS72 is also does not have the meanest low end compared to the long stroke engines.


For mean low end torque and a decent top end, check out the OS VZ-B, Picco XP, or RB 5 port. The inexpensive OS RG also puts out some awesome low end torque.

[guswiththemugen]

Dont know what Novarossi prices are like over there, but there good in Australia in comparison to other brands. The long stroke P5 is an awsome engine if you want bottom end torque. Im running the SBK short stroke wich has a wild top end. I say this but i also agree that you can only get so much power to the ground and motors like these rarely get a chance to do what they can do. Even when you compare the engines, the P5 has more torque than the SBK, if youve ever seen an SBK go you will soon see there is more bottom end than you would ever need, and when you see a P5 nailed down a straight, it has a heap of top end, so, once again it comes down to all the other factors, setup, surface, driver, etc...

[codeman]

Cool .. thats for the responses guys :)

I don't mind paying the price for the WS7II; I can find 'em for $280US, so thats no problem. I can get them for about the same price as an OS VB-Z; but from what I've been hearing the OS VB-Z isn't quite lasting as long as the Novarossi based engines. Whereas you could get about 8-10 gallons out of your Nova no prob if kept clean and lubed, guys are finding it hard to get past the 4 gallon mark on the new VB-Z ...

So thats another thing to think about .. regardless, you alway sneed a backup engine if you're serious about racing .. I'll more than likely end up with one of each =) haha Its a tossup between the P5 and WS7II though for sure. I may just end up with the P5 ... everyone agrees its an awesome engine.

Ah well, have time to think about it :)

Have a bunch of stuff to grab ... btw, anybody know where to grab these items at a good price online?

Futaba 3PK radio w/pcm rec.
OS 2050 1 piece tuned pipe set

[nad138]

Peter Sik in ebay usually has them. Try looking him up there.

Talking about pipes, my Picco Super Comp with my 2050 pipe is one hell of a combination. I just had that engine broken in after a fresh squeeze and man, it hauls. I can see the margin between myself and the other guys widening in the straight except for that kanai with the Novarossi Medial Pro engine. I'm an OS junkie and have been running that for awhile now, but things are starting to change now that I've tried my old Italian engine (but for tuning, I still stick with the OS). Will probably try the P5 or the WS7II also.

[Bus Driver]

here is the new layout at our current track.Test laps driven by myself.I cant really drive a 1/10 scale.Its not mine.

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/newlayouttruck.wmv

[speedydave]

Link's broken.

[Bus Driver]

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/newlayouttruck.wmv

[Bus Driver]

edit

[OldskoolGT]

nad138,

(in a quiet whispering voice) Keep quiet about the Picco. Its better for us if everyone else is *not* running them. :)

[nad138]

Did I say Picco...I meant Ofna Hyper 8 Port.....LOL:D

[Digimortal]

What do yall think of the O.S. 21 rz-vo1b's? Another question, is the O.S. 21 vz-r an onroad engine? Thanks.

[nad138]

I've tried the OS RZ-B, RZ-V99 and the RZ-V01B and I like them a lot. It's very easy to tune and sticks with most of the best of em out there. Won the worlds at Uruguay (degani-kyosho). If you do get it, make sure that you tie down the hose for the boost chamber (I myself sealed this option off). Had a friend which had that hose come off and it sucked in dirt, making the engine toast.

OS' naming standard, with a B = offroad, R = onroad.

[Digimortal]

Well, I had the hobbyshop order me an O.S. 21RZ-VO1B today. What I noticed is that the number had the letter (P) after it. I looked it up on the internet and found out that this means that it has a pilot shaft instead of the standard shaft, whatever that means. Will this work on the mbx5? Thanks.

[nad138]

Digimortal.....it's going to be PERFECT !!!!

[Digimortal]

Sweet!:D I've always used O.S. engines in my rc planes and have always loved them, so I knew I could not go wrong with the O.S. IMO they make the best engines out there. I can't wait to ride this thing. I'm definately going to make sure that I break it in right. Oh, and I believe there is a single piece pipe for it which is the #2050 pipe if I'm not mistaken. I'd imagine this would go perfect with it. If not which pipe should go with it? Thanks again.

[NoleC5]

Just wondering how some of you are setting up your shocks on the MBX5. I was running the gray springs with 40 frt and 35 rear but after practicing last night at the track, it seemed real choppie so I switched the oils to 60 frt and 40 rear on the suggestion of a fellow racer. Not sure what this will do, guess I'll have to wait til race day on saturday.

Also, one other question, when I took the shocks apart last night, the rubber diaphram in the shock cap was pushed in and indented. Is this common or is this something that I did wrong?

Thanks!

FYI...not sure if anyone noticed, but ace-hobbies now has the mugen chasis stiffiners and Racers Edge shock towers. I ordered the racers edge shock towers this past monday. Hopefully they will be here today. http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=88_263&osCsid=da36afd53aa73d98e397b4014a5b77f1

[nad138]

Originally posted by Digimortal
Sweet!:D I've always used O.S. engines in my rc planes and have always loved them, so I knew I could not go wrong with the O.S. IMO they make the best engines out there. I can't wait to ride this thing. I'm definately going to make sure that I break it in right. Oh, and I believe there is a single piece pipe for it which is the #2050 pipe if I'm not mistaken. I'd imagine this would go perfect with it. If not which pipe should go with it? Thanks again.

The OS RZ-B and the 2050 are what I had on my X5. It's a great combination. And that is what most of the fast guys here use. Just make sure you heat cycle your engine when you start to break it in. Some people might have some differing opinions about that style but it's been great so far for me. If you can't locate a 2050 pipe (which is rather rare now adays), go for 086 pipe (mid to top end) - if your track is large and plenty of straights. I've also used (RB) 063 on a tight technical track where you need the torque. But if you can find a 2050, it's a very good investment.

[nad138]

Originally posted by NoleC5
Just wondering how some of you are setting up your shocks on the MBX5. I was running the gray springs with 40 frt and 35 ........[/url]

I use the same springs but am using 35/30 (sometimes 30/30). Choppy, do you mean it's bouncing around too much ? If that's so, go to a lower weight oil.

As for the bladders, I had them before but got some inputs that the pressure is too much so I reduced the oil to have less rebound. Seems to be fine after that.

[OldskoolGT]

I think #350/30 wt shock oil (front/rear) combo works great for the X5. I can bomb through the whoops just like with my Kyosho with that combination.

A thinner sway bar in the rear might also reduce that "choppiness". I think the stock sway bar is too thick for most conditions.

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, yea i just came back from teh chicago rc show and to my suprise mugen wasn't there, i dont know why but neither was ofna so go figure? Any way i saw the new pro-line crowd pleazer body, and took 2 shots of it, im gonna try and post them but my caermas is being stupid. Any bodys clutch bearings been givin out latly?

[OldskoolGT]

I've heard that the Mugen clutch bearings are some of the longeset lasting, but they are also the highest priced. :)

I think that clutch bell bearings are basically a disposable item in buggy racing. before any big race, I would put fresh clutch bell bearings in before the main because there they fail at very irregular intervals.


Mugen is finally worth ripping off now (I don't recall any MBX4 clones). Take a look:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=141090

[nad138]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
Mugen is finally worth ripping off now (I don't recall any MBX4 clones). Take a look:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=141090

Mugen should be flattered by that ;)

O.GT, how'd the weekend go ? Won some more trinkets for your trophy stand :D

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, well here is one pic of the body.....

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, well here is one pic of the body.....

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, well here is one pic of the body.....

[eb4kidd12]

ah sorry about that guys my comp was slow so i repedly hit post, first tiem postin a pic well heres one more(hopefully only shown once)

[eb4kidd12]

and of course here is a pic of my MBX5 its a little old, now i got knuckles on it so i will up date thsi pic in the near future.

[OldskoolGT]

nad138,

I got second place at my club race this weekend. I had an epic battle going on with my friend, who was also driving an X5.

I am finally starting to like the X5 now after figuring out how to drive it. When I drove it like my old K2, I was getting lapped by guys I usually keep up with.

What kind of fuel economy are you getting with your (ahem) OFNA Super Comp and T-2050 pipe. I have the Paris XP version, which appears to be the same engine with a different color head, and I am only getting around 5-6 minutes per tank with the same OS pipe. The power is awesome though, fast guys were asking me about my engine and clutch setup because I had some killer low end power.

[nad138]

O.GT. great job landing 2nd. Same here, 5-6mins. I only got a gallon through it though so I'm hoping it's going to get better after a few more tanks. Weather here keeps changing so the engine performed differently yesterday than the last time I raced it. What plug are you using on yours ? A5 ?

[OldskoolGT]

I use an Odonnell #99 plug. Maybe that is the secret. Everybody knows that anything Odonnell slapped on an engine makes it faster. :)

[Mudvayne]

I was thinking of getting an O.S. vo1b. However, I noticed that there is now a .21 vz-b engine that is now out. I believe it's more expensive though. How much better is this one than the vo1b? Thanks in advance.

[OldskoolGT]

Unless the V01-B is real cheap, I would just spend more and go for the new VZ-B. The VZ-B is supposed to have more power everywhere compared to the V01-B. The V01-B is discontinued now, and parts may get scarce.

[NoleC5]

Need opinion on pipe - I'm thinking of putting an Ofna 063 pipe on my WS7II. Does anyone have any experience with this setup? I'm looking to gain a little more low end power.

Thanks

[nad138]

If you ask me, I've been reading posts from SGRID (fast guys hang around there...Degani, Pavidis...etc.) and I'll hold off on getting the VZ-B for now. Some guys only get a gallon through it and some >3 gallons and still going strong.

Try an Ofna engine;)

[T-Maxxahol]

if you want killer power and good reliabilty.. Try some of the Nova based motors.......the SBKs were nothing short of brilliant.. and the new P5 is awesome almost no powerband.... I was running a G1 and the P5 has the same bottem end snap ,, I was also unhappy with the runtimes. I was getting on the G1.. but the paris version is killer power.. another good motor worh mentioning are either the CMb.. Raptor evo2 or the LSI..race........both...have C5 Rody like power but the raptor has it down low.. too.............. the raptor pulls High rrrss. I have seen both version of these run and they are nothing short of ungodly powerfull.. they do like to stay cool though... 195 210 race tuned.......good luck

[speedydave]

I hope the P5's bearing/carb o-ring problems are solved, or will be soon...

[T-Maxxahol]

I havent yet had a problem with the bearing.. but I will say the carb o rings can be tricky......... although they are easy to rebuild.. and cheap....

I have run it on many engines.. cant say im a good enough driver to notice a drfference in how the 63 compares to eth 86.........I have both the ofnas.. and P5 seems the same may be some minor gain somewhere.. I just dont really notice

[Mudvayne]

Alright, I think I've finally decided on an engine. The Novarossi rex .21 5 port. What do yall think? I hear this engine has serious low end and that is what I am mainly looking for, but would like some decent top end also. It's only a little over $300 now at Horizon and the O.S. is close to the same price I believe. Let me know what yall think. I'll probably be ordering this engine tomorrow so I would appreciate any replies. Thanks. Is there a certain version, like how the O.S. has a pilot shaft that I should get? Or is it just one type of engine? Oh and last question, my friend has a T-2050 O.S. pipe that he never used that he said he would give me. Would this pipe pair up with the rex pretty good? Thanks again.

[nad138]

Mudvayne, if you don't get that pipe...I'll get it from him ;)

[OldskoolGT]

The OS pipe works great with the Rex P5. In fact, that pipe seems to work well with most engines. I did find that the P5 felt softer on the bottom than the Picco XP with the same pipe though. I never thought my P5 was a low end torque monster. Mine had good low end power and a very wide powerband though.

[Digimortal]

Well, after I received my VO1B O.S. engine I saw that thte new improved VZ-B engine was out and actually cheaper. So I sent mine back and ordered that one. I wanted a T-2050 pipe for it, but it was out of stock, along with all the other popular ones. They went ahead and sent me a blue header and pipe which is an O.S. brand that they said will work with tihs engine. Does anyone have any opinions on this particular pipe? Will it do a good job? Thanks.

[nad138]

I'm guessing that blue OS pipe is the T-2030. If that is so, you'll need to get a nipple for it as it doesn't come with one. The guys I race with using that pipe has good overall performance and I like the sound a lot. OS engine + OS pipe = GOOD !!!!

[Digimortal]

I just finished installing my VZ-B(p) engine in my mbx-5. Man is it beautiful. Anyway, I first installed the shim, then the cone shaped piece on the crankshaft, but when they first say to install the shim, when everything else was installed the clutch bell would not turn. So I left the first shim off. Is that shim supposed to be there? It's the very first shim that goes on the shaft, the one right up against the bearing on the engine. Thanks in advance. I hope this made sense.lol

[codeman]

Hey guys ... some pics of my buggy, with a freshly painted body :P

http://www.efluxdesign.com/mbx5/MBX5_pics001.jpg

http://www.efluxdesign.com/mbx5/MBX5_pics002.jpg

http://www.efluxdesign.com/mbx5/MBX5_pics003.jpg

http://www.efluxdesign.com/mbx5/MBX5_pics005.jpg

[Digimortal]

I could be wrong, but the shims I am talking about about are more like small washers, I take it that these are called shims right? I still suck with terminology. Anyway, I put the cone thingy(or collet I believe it's called) on the shaft, then tightened the flywheel, using loctite also, and after that I finished putting on the clutch shoes(which was fun.lol) and now the clutch bell spins freely with just a tiny amount of play if you was to push it up and down, I mean just a tiny amount. So I would think this put on perfectly. I am just making sure I didn't screw up by leaving the very first shim off of it,the one that goes behind the collet, because when I first put it on, the clutch bell would not turn at all. Obviously I worry too much.lol I can't wait to get this baby on the track.

[Digimortal]

Nevermind, I did some reading up on the internet and it says that there should be something in front of that bearing, it's not a good idea to leave it out. I went ahead and took it apart(all that loctite made it a challenge lol) and went ahead and put 1 shim behind the collet. I was able to fix my problem by removing one of the shims that goes in front of the clutch bell. Thanks anyway.

[Digimortal]

Alright this is driving me nuts now.lol Some sites say you need them, some say definately not to use them so here are some pics. I trust the people hre for their expertise so check them out and tell me what would be the better option. Here's the first pic:

[Digimortal]

And here is the second pic, notice how I just left the black washer off and just put the collet directly in front of the bearing. Whenever I do this, everything seems to fit better and the clutch bell spins freely. Is there anything wrong with just leaving the black washer off? Is it just optional in case you would need it? Thanks.

[OldskoolGT]

That washer is optional. Its just used if you need more clearance between the flywheel and engine case or want to take up some extra length of the pilot shaft. It's definitely not necessary to use that washer. In my Kyosho manual, there is not even a mention of a part like that.

[nad138]

As O.GT said it's optional. With Mugen's X5 flywheel, I doubt it will hit the crank case. I don't use it in mine. I don't know about the other mugen flywheel (larger diameter) as well as Ofna's ?

[NoleC5]

A week ago I bought some pre mounted/pre glued 1/8th scale buggie tires. When I put them on the rear of the car, the upper arm rubs on the inside of the rim?!?! Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone know a good place for me to order a set of mbx5 rims so I can at least mount these tires on some different rims??

Thanks!!

[OldskoolGT]

I've heard that you can remedy this by sticking a 1mm shock spacer on the hub before you put the wheels on (which will increase the width of the car 1 mm per side).

Kyosho and OFNA dish wheels have worked fine on my buggy.

[nad138]

The only wheels that did that on me was the LRP ones. The proline, ofna and mugen ones worked just fine. I use the 1mm shock collars to offset it and works perfect.

[Bus Driver]

treads or trc tires will do that also.

[nad138]

My bad....LRP = TRC....must have been thinking of electric touring cars when I was typing my post earlier.

[Digimortal]

Hey codeman, sweet looking body.:cool: I am in the process of painting mine. I haven't decided on anything yet though.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by nad138
The only wheels that did that on me was the LRP ones. The proline, ofna and mugen ones worked just fine. I use the 1mm shock collars to offset it and works perfect.

Any pics of this shock collar mod? I'm not understanding.
Thanks!

[nad138]

NoleC5, in your MBX5 box, there are preload clips (collars) for the shocks (1mm, 2mm....5mm). There are I think 4 sets of each. I just cut 2 1mm (cut off the "ear" on the collar) and insert each one on the wheel well were the hubs are going to go in.

I'll get pics when i get home tonight.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by nad138
NoleC5, in your MBX5 box, there are preload clips (collars) for the shocks (1mm, 2mm....5mm). There are I think 4 sets of each. I just cut 2 1mm (cut off the "ear" on the collar) and insert each one on the wheel well were the hubs are going to go in.

I'll get pics when i get home tonight.

Thanks nad....I just can't picture this in my head. I'll try messing with it tonight when I get home.

Does anyone know where an OS 2050 pipe can be found? These seem to be very hot right now.

[nad138]

NoleC5, here it is.

As for the pipe, sometimes see them at ebay.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by nad138
NoleC5, here it is.

As for the pipe, sometimes see them at ebay.

Nad, thank you very much!! I'll give this a shot when I get home tonight. I was just tryign to hang the spacer on the hub and than put the wheel on instead of putting the spacer into the wheel! :rolleyes: Still a newbie I guess. Thanks again!!

[NoleC5]

I have another potentially stupid question: I ordered an OS 2050 one piece pipe today. Did I do wrong by getting a "one piece"? That was all that they had available and there were only 3 left, so I jumped on it.....

Thanks,

[OldskoolGT]

Nope. That's exactly what you want. The T-2050 only comes as a one piece style pipe anyways.

[Digimortal]

Yeah Nole you lucked out by finding one of those. I couldn't find one anywhere so I had to settle for the O.S. T-2030 blue pipe. So I'll see how it works hopefully this weekend.

[NoleC5]

Thanks for the replise guys!! I can't wait to get it now.

In case anyone else in interested, the place that I ordered mine from today said they had 3 more in stock. I will list their info below, I think they are in SC.

Golden Strip Hobbies
864-963-7149
Ask for Angie

[nad138]

Nole, I see you hit Sgrid also....I was wondering why I was reading the same post again.

Yep, the T-2050 has everything you need (low, mid, high). Plus a one piece, meaning you don't need those silicone couplers and zip ties. Just keep a set of small springs for that pipe.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by nad138
Nole, I see you hit Sgrid also....I was wondering why I was reading the same post again.

Yep, the T-2050 has everything you need (low, mid, high). Plus a one piece, meaning you don't need those silicone couplers and zip ties. Just keep a set of small springs for that pipe.

Thanks nad.....Ya, I posted on sgrid first, but the traffic there isn't the greatest sometimes. I think a lot of the guys over there don't like answering to many questions.

But I have yet another question. I was hoping someone could describe when where and how you are supposed to use the bigger, very thin washers that come in the mbx5 kit. I think they are some kind of spacer for the front and rear transmissions, but I'm not sure where they would go.

Thanks again and again!! :D

[nad138]

Nole, what part # (and part in the manual) are you referring to ?

I'm just guessing, but it could be those washers to shim the diffs.

WHEN : These are used when you feel that there is a lot of play (space) between the ring gear and the pinion gear which causes these 2 to wear out. They need to mesh pretty good.

WHERE : These shims go BETWEEN the diff case (where the whole diff assy goes into) and the bearing on your diffs. These are usually placed on the side where the ring gear is to be pushed towards the pinion gear.

HOW : Slide the shim(s) through the outdrives and install the diffs and check the mesh between the ring gear and the pinion gear. Depending on how big the gap is, just add some more shims if necessary.

It's hard to imagine, but if you've worked on the Ofna Dominator, you know what I'm referring to.

Sorry, don't have pics for this :D

[NoleC5]

Thanks nad....

"Slide the shim(s) through the outdrives and install the diffs "

Not sure what the "outdrives" are, are they were the universals/dogbones slide into on the diffs? any clarification?

[nad138]

Nole, yep that's right. The outdrives are where the dogbones go in.

I'm going to rebuild my diffs tomorrow evening so I might as well take pics of that for you. I'll probably post it up in my webshots page so I can do a step-by-step thing in there. I'll let you know when I have it in there.

O.GT, will you be racing down at Victoria this weekend ?

[OldskoolGT]

Unfortunately not. Victoria is too far to go for a 1 day race.

[Digimortal]

Has anyone heard of the Thunder Tiger Pro starter box? I went to my hobbyshop today and this is the only one that they have. I think it's like $80 or so. I am needing one for my mugen mbx5. The owner said it should work but I don't think he knows much. It looks like a nice starter box. I'm just not sure if it is good or not. Thanks in advance.

[not.enough.toys]

It's been a while, but here goes: NoleC5 I see that you posted some time back that you were also having a problem with the rear end sliding out alot in corners. I had the same problem. I would hit the throttle and the car would just start fishtaling, like something was binding in the front end causing all of the power to go to the rear end. Just curious as to what you did to fix it if there was a problem.


I've also noticed that I am not the only one that has fluid leaking from their diffs. Good job Mugen! Just what I want to do, refill my diffs every week.

Personally, I am disgusted with this car, which explains why it has been sitting on the shelf for the past two months.

Sorry guys, just looking for some help before I sell it. And , just venting a little bit because I have spent so much money on this thing and have only driven it for 1/2 gallon, which was mostly break-in for the Rex.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by not.enough.toys
It's been a while, but here goes: NoleC5 I see that you posted some time back that you were also having a problem with the rear end sliding out alot in corners. I had the same problem. I would hit the throttle and the car would just start fishtaling, like something was binding in the front end causing all of the power to go to the rear end. Just curious as to what you did to fix it if there was a problem.


I've also noticed that I am not the only one that has fluid leaking from their diffs. Good job Mugen! Just what I want to do, refill my diffs every week.

Personally, I am disgusted with this car, which explains why it has been sitting on the shelf for the past two months.

Sorry guys, just looking for some help before I sell it. And , just venting a little bit because I have spent so much money on this thing and have only driven it for 1/2 gallon, which was mostly break-in for the Rex.

Hi notenough......Well, I haven't been able to do much racing over the past two weeks (went to FSU football game last week and I think I have the flu this week, so no racing).

But I have done a few things that I'm hoping will help......A lot of guys have switched the rear stabilizer bar to help with the rear end sliding out. I think the stocker is a 2.8 and I've now switched to a black 2.6. These can be found at nitrohouse.com.

As far as the diffs leaking, I have read that this is due to the o-rings used in the diffs that come with the kit. I have read that guys are using o rings from an o ring set from the mbx4 (part number T0120). These o rings can also be found at nitrohouse.com under the mbx4 parts list. I just got these in on thursday and rebuilt my diffs so I don't know if this really will help with the leaking or not. I'll keep you posted. Hoping to be able to practice wed. and thurs of this week and race next weekend.

I also got my new pipe in this week, t-2050!!! Awesome looking pipe!!! Can't wait to hear what this thing sounds like.

Clutch question: What kind of maintenance needs to be done on the aluminum shoes that come with the kit? I see where the shoes probably need to be "de burred" but not sure if there is anything else I should do.

Thanks!!

[not.enough.toys]

Thanks for the info Nole. I tried everything that I could. I made a smaller diameter sway bar, tried ever combination of diff fluids, tires, etc. However, I think there is more to this than fluids and sway bars. I had a MBX4 Xr before this, and even with street tires, it would still drive better than the 5 on the track. I did notice one thing when rebuilding the diffs(x5). When I tightened down on the diff cover screws, it would cause major binding between the pinion and spur in the rear. The rear would "crunch" when I spun the wheels. So I loosened up on the screws, and the binding went away. Hmmmm.

[speedydave]

Damn, I can't believe I've seen so many people saying they're having problems with this buggy. Mine is handling AWESOME. I have no idea whether the diffs are leaking or not, but I sure hope not. I took the rear end off the buggy the night before the second race day with the buggy and the diff didn't appear to be leaking. My buggy's going to be sitting through winter, because I'll be racing my MST-1 and my B4, but before it goes into hibernation, I'm going to rebuild and clean the entire buggy, and I'll report back then how my diffs are doing. I need to take the S3 o-rings out of the front and center diffs anyway...What setup are you guys running when you're having this "fishtailing" problem?

[Digimortal]

Hey notenough, I am having having the exact same problem. After I tightened the rear diff case down the gears go crunch when ever I turn it, and it's not really smooth at all. It sounds and feels like crap. I am thinking this will go away after I break it in hopefully. I even put some associated black grease inside the diff case between the gears and they still go "crunch" when I turn it over. It's only on the rear though. The front is as smooth as can be. Go figure.

[Bus Driver]

Her is a vid of my car.I have had no problems with it at all.No leaking no chrunching and no fish tailing.Ask any questions you want and i will give you the best answer I can.I am assuming you not beginers so the first question I am gonna ask is what tires are you running.Plus when you built your diffs did you shim them or not?

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/bdregional.wmv

[not.enough.toys]

I did not shim the diffs. Maybe thats what the problem is, the front is too tight. ??? I have tried every setup imaginable. Locals have suggested tires, sway bars, different fluids, but it is something bigger than that that is causing the fishtaling. It drives like it is two wheel drive, in that most of the power goes to the rear wheels. Could the mesh between gears in the front be too tight? ????

[Digimortal]

Well, I'm going to finally test my buggy out in a few days or so, so I'll let yall know if I experience any problems that have been mentioned.

[Bus Driver]

You need to take it apart and shime the diff till it has a smooth feel to it.If you have something binding that will cause the rear end to be out of controll.The buggy is so stable I dont under stand it myself.I wish i could look at it.Make sure everything is moveing freely.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Bus Driver
Her is a vid of my car.I have had no problems with it at all.No leaking no chrunching and no fish tailing.Ask any questions you want and i will give you the best answer I can.I am assuming you not beginers so the first question I am gonna ask is what tires are you running.Plus when you built your diffs did you shim them or not?

http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/bdregional.wmv

Hi bus! I think this was the third or fourth time I've watched this vid! Sweet!! Do you have any others?

Question: Do you have a setup "sheet" that you could share? Diff oils, shock settings ect?

Thanks!

[Bus Driver]

Here is a vid of m home track.Tis is not me but still a vid.

http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/sept13ftr.wmv

[Bus Driver]

I have been running on most tracks 1.4mm pistons all they way around.321/2wt up front and 271/2wt in the rear.For diff fluid I run 3000front 5000middle 1000rear all with out the orings.I also run 2.1mm sway bars all the way around.Some guys at my track dont run any.

[not.enough.toys]

Yeah, I'm going to go through the car. I have to, I may have a buyer for it. Way too many headaches with nitro. To the point where it's not a hobby anymore. I'll stick to electric r/c. Plug and play.

[nad138]

Hey guys, I also encountered the crunching sound coming from the rear diff when I rebuilt it a couple of weeks ago. I thought to myself that it couldn't be because it's still new as I've already raced it a couple of times. I just had to reseat the diff in the case and the binding was gone (also had to clean the pinion gear and the inside of the case with nitro cleaner before putting it back in). I'm thinking there might be very small tolerances that the diffs needed to be seated right, if not, that binding problem occurs. Try and check to see if there are gaps between the bearings and the case.

[the rock]

Nole.. I have the same problem with the leaking diffs. Please let us know is the x4 o rings solved the problem... axious waiting for your input. I ordered a set myself already but I live all the way in Cozumel Mexico and will be some time before I get them.

Gents... as far as the other problems I read about.. like crunching rear diff and fish tailing problems... I dont see how... my x5's diffs are smooth and I have rebuilt mine already. I tighten my diffs and casing TIGHT also... MAYBE their are diff (casings or something) that are defected from factory and are causing crunching and bad power-to-wheel distributions therefore fish tailing. My X5 goes straight as an arrow in dirt or concrete from a dead stop to top speed... I have the RB SW7-II. And it turns on a dime.

I have also copied Jason Ashtons setup to the mark. www.mugenracing.com under "whats new" "setups"

Before I copied this setup the car handled awsome and went straight... I noticed with this setup I turn much better. Ashton is an aggressive driver.

The ONLY complaint I have are the diffs leaking. But I literally have to open my casing to see that its leaked, so its not a mess... but it leaks. I feel we will find this solution.

Let me know if I can be any help to anyone...

[needinpower]

Hey Rock,
I was just over there a week ago visiting. Nice place.
Would you mind emailing me that setup sheet please. Can't seem to get on to mugenracing.com.

Thanks

[the rock]

Hey NEEDI

There sight seems to be down since this morning. Try a little later or I will send it when i can get in.

Its a straight forward set up also, he uses stock shock oils, stock shock pistens etc. You can copy his setup with the parts you got in your kit.... exept the diff oils.

rock

[needinpower]

Cool, stock setup is what i'm looking for.

Just a thought for the guys having trouble with the handling. I noticed the same thing with mine one race, really diffuclt to control the rear end. I took it apart after that race and found I had no oil in the centre diff. All power to the rear.

Just a thought

[the rock]

NEEDIN

Check out the website... its working...

[needinpower]

Thanks,
Just got it so i'll give it a try next race.

[the rock]

NEEDI

Did you come on a cruise ship? Let me know if you ever come back... I just built the only RC track on the island... a platform and everything... started a club also... we are growing...

[not.enough.toys]

My center diff has fluid in it, 10k to be exact, because it is very hard to spin when holding one driveshaft. I have rebuilt the diffs more times than I can count. I checked them last night and they still have fluid in them, only because it has been sitting on the shelf for the past two months. I have torn everything down, and will go through it again. The car only has about 3/4 gallon on it total.

[needinpower]

Rock,
I live in Mexico City and we drove. 4000km round trip in ten days was a bit of an effort but it was nice to see the Yucatan and Chiapas.
Do you have some photo's of your track you can email me?

n.e.t.
I then, am also baffled. Like the other guys say, maybe something binding. I also had that problem on the rear diff but it certainly didn't have any effect on handling. Maybe you should go back to the standard setup, 3/3/1 with o-rings and see how it goes. Also, before you sell it, try to drive another one that the owner is happy with. This will tell you if it is the car you don't like or if there is something wrong with yours specifically.

[Digimortal]

The binding I am talking about has nothing to do with the differentials. It's the case that they sit in. The 2 gears in there turn really crappy. Believe me, I've taken it apart numerous times but with no difference. Hopefully, if I ever get to run this thing it will smoothen out.

[NoleC5]

I know very little about "caster" so I apologize in advance if I use the wrong wording here.

I went and practiced yesterday and played with the front caster adjust ments a little, here is what I noticed.
-with all of the clips up front (towards the shock towers) I had a lot more and sharper steering and car seemed more stable on the fast straights
-with all of the clips towards the back the steering seemed much more even, more smooth I guess would be a good explanation. But car seemed to want to catch in ruts more easily.

Again, not sure if that makes sense or if that is even what is supposed to happen with those adjustments. Any comments?

Also have a question on shock settings. I currently have 40 front and 35 rear, think I have 8 front preload and 2 or 3 in the rear with the stock gray springs. The car really seems to want to bottom out, not only on the big jumps but also on many of the medium size jumps.

Is this normal? Should I consider different springs or shock oils?

Thanks! Only 2 more days til race day!!

[the rock]

DIGI

thats not right. your caseing MIGHT be defected. Maybe try buying new casing. I REALLY tighten my casings up and they dont bind, and since the first time i put them together they move really smooooooooth

the only thing it could be is a bad casing, or warped gears... which I dought... OR the little gear on the casing might be to far in the casing.... that piece has a stopper though...

Maybe what you can do... is since the front and rear gears and casings are identicle.... you can swap piece by peice back and forth untill you find the problem. Know what I mean? That is if your other casing and diff are running smoothly.....

hope this helps.... rock

[needinpower]

Nole,
Adding caster (all clips up front) should, in the laws of caster adjusting, give you better stability at high speed and smoother steering.
Reducing caster (all clips towards the back) should give you faster, snappier steering and less stability at high speed.
I'm not quoting a bible here but this is how I understand the effects of caster.

With regards to bottoming out, I'd suggest heavier oil and or springs. This should be ok if your track is smooth.
On my track which is a little bumpy and rough, adding more preload helped with the big jump so I didn't bottom out but i kept rolling the thing on the fast sweeper coming on to the straight. So I reduced the preload (3mm), took the big jump a little slower and reduced my lap times by 2 seconds (that's a lot on a 40 second lap)

Hope I didn't confuse you here, I'm not renown for my written explanations.

[NoleC5]

Thanks Needin!
I was thinking about picking up some white springs and possibly going 50 frt and 40 rear. Do you think that is a good adjustment?

[OldskoolGT]

Nole,

Don't worry about the car bottoming out. All buggies bottom out alot because the ground clearance is pretty low.

I run #350 in the front and 30 wt. oil in the rear with stock pistons and springs and find that to be an awesome combination in the bumps.

[OldskoolGT]

Digimortal,

I have heard of defective diff cases, which are uneven so the ring gear does not run true. Take the diff apart and run the diff casing over some high grit sandpaper to flatten the surface where the diff case and ring gear meet.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
Nole,

Don't worry about the car bottoming out. All buggies bottom out alot because the ground clearance is pretty low.

I run #350 in the front and 30 wt. oil in the rear with stock pistons and springs and find that to be an awesome combination in the bumps.

Thanks oldskool, can I ask another question? When you car is sitting on the ground/table and you push the front end down, how much does it rebound? Do you even look at this?

[the rock]

NOLE

im gonna steel a line from oldschool.... but ive always set up my cars so when you place your car on a table... the suspension cusions down so that your arms are horizontal all the way across. In other words its a straight line from one arm end to the other. And in turn... when you push down the rebound should or ALMOST put it to the horizontal level...

I have tried set ups when the shocks sit up taller, and with the horizontal setup the car always is MUCH stabler and is able to absord bumps much better and lets the wheels go up and down rather than the entire car. Now im sure this all depends on the kind of track you have and the amount of air you catch.

My tracks biggest jump gets the car up about 3 feet...

If your track or driving conditions are bumpy and unleved I would recommend it softer and let the suspension soak up the unperfections of the track.

Oldshcool?

[the rock]

BUT

I just recently copied Jason Ashton setup... and the front rebound is a little higher than horizontal... and Ashtons setup is working great...

[needinpower]

Nole,
Just to elaborate on what I wrote earlier.
Stiffer suspension is good for the jumps but it WILL slow you down overall. I used to think taking the jumps fast was the best way to go (fastest) but have since learned to back off on the big jumps. It's not as impressive but it sure is quicker.
As oldskool said, don't worry too much about it bottoming out.
In my opinion, if it bottoms out i'm taking the jump too fast.

To put it another way. When I first saw all these guys jumping 8 - 10 feet in the air, I thought WOW, wish I could do that and I did.
I crashed (as did the other big air jumpers) at least once every five laps. Then I watched the pro guys lap me because they didn't crash at all. They just keep jumping at a safe speed (around half the air and distance I was getting) and kept coming up with the wins.
If you get the jump right 9 out of 10 times you will have an advantage but I've never seen anyone have that much luck full speed over a big jump.
My theory now is, the more time you spend in the air, the slower you will be.
Now i'm faster than any of the 'big air' guys and starting to nip the heels of the pros (who all race Kanais). All this with my first rc car and no experience.

[not.enough.toys]

Here's the deal: I took the entire car apart, cleaned everything, checked all of the diffs for fluid ( they do ) and reassembled. I can spin the front axles with my fingers and the whole drivetrain spins with it without any binding whatsoever. In fact they spin for a few seconds and then stop, and this is with the tires/rims off of the vehicle. Hopefully I can run on friday to see how it handles.

[OldskoolGT]

Originally posted by needinpower
I used to think taking the jumps fast was the best way to go (fastest) but have since learned to back off on the big jumps. It's not as impressive but it sure is quicker.


I am not sure I am willing to make that trade off. :)


I run my buggies like Rock's with the arms level as a starting point. You can tweak the handleing a bit by changing the ride height too. For example, if you want more traction at one end of the car, lower the ride height of that end a little bit. If a track is really bumpy, it may be beneficial to run the car with a slightly taller ride height. Also keep in mind that running the same amount of preload spacers as someone else will not necessarily mean that you will have the same ride height as that person due to differences in the way the shocks were built. More oil inside the shocks will mean more rebound.

[Bus Driver]

Any good track that has really nice jumps really put thought in to the landings of the jumps.The landing should be built so that you dont have to hit the jump at full speed.This make you drive the car more and controll you jumps.

[Bus Driver]

Take this guy for example.He does exatly what not to do.If you watch the previous film of mine you will see the guys in the race are hitting the big jump and landing on the back side of the landing ramp.That was ultimitly the fastest and smoothest way around.He did not think so.lol
http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/wowthatsbigair.wmv

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
I am not sure I am willing to make that trade off. :)


I run my buggies like Rock's with the arms level as a starting point. You can tweak the handleing a bit by changing the ride height too. For example, if you want more traction at one end of the car, lower the ride height of that end a little bit. If a track is really bumpy, it may be beneficial to run the car with a slightly taller ride height. Also keep in mind that running the same amount of preload spacers as someone else will not necessarily mean that you will have the same ride height as that person due to differences in the way the shocks were built. More oil inside the shocks will mean more rebound.

Oldskool, thanks again, another quick question for you......if you build the shocks so that there is more rebound, what would that translate into in the way of handling?

Thank you

[the rock]

NEEDI..

Here are some pics of our track... small but its a start.. its fun

[the rock]

another

[not.enough.toys]

Got to drive the 5 after a two month hiatus. Currently there is 3,10,5-r,m,f diffs, something like that. Anyhow the buggy still drives weird, really, really loose in the rear. So, the hobby shop owner suggests putting on some mini pin tires. I put them on and what a difference, though it is still a little loose in the rear, but driveable. I am going to put in different fluids, and see how it drives. A new lease on life.

[needinpower]

Hey Rock,
Nice track, doesn't seem too small.
Both the tracks I race on are about the same size but not with so many jumps. Looks good.

[the rock]

thanks a lot NEEDI...

Here are a few more pics... the "almost done" platform

[the rock]

we got rid of those bricks on the water system... put some nice stands with foam around them

[the rock]

uno mas :D

[needinpower]

Page 20 :D :D :D

Ok,,,,,,, it's much bigger than where I race (sorry, no pics) maybe i'll have to go on another holiday and take my car.
Do you have a club or is that built by a shop owner?

[the rock]

that would be so cool i you came here with your car... anytime!!!

Well... I designed and built the entire track :D :D

Me and two buddys always looked for open areas to run our cars... and I came across this guy who rented us the property.

We started a club here. We are selling memberships for people who want to use the track etc. (free for u ;)

I have 2 GT's on their way... rental cars... see how it goes... Just a side thing and hobby for me... If the hobby can end up free by making a little money off of it.. than great... if not... well we have a cool private track.

I started with GT's... I got the bug for a buggy all of a sudden and now everyone freaks out when they see the buggy run... but its not to much fun when your the only buggy... I always give them 3/4 of a track head start and they do 5 laps and I do 7 and I still beat them... lap them like twice...

SOOOO..... I just sold another buggy to a friend.. cant wait to do some real racing... he didnt want to spend to much so I got him the Ofna MBX PRO.... :cool:

HOPEFULLY if we dont get rained out we will have a big race on Sunday....

OH... I have my cousin looking for me in Mexico City for some nitro. Do they sell BYRON ORIGINAL 20% over there? I used to get it from Cancun but the hobby guy now only gets POWER MASTERS... YUUUK!!!! He trys to tell me its better to. yeah right... oh... and he'll sell me a Kyosho K2 for $20,000 pesos and a OFNA LX PRO for $7,000.... I think hes been smelling to much POWER MASTER!!! lol

X5's RULE!!!!!!!!!!!!

[the rock]

NOT.ENOUGH

if most of your problem was fixed by different tires... im going to guess that the real problem is the track conditions. What kind of dirt is it? Sounds like its dry and loose....

Im currently using some Pro-Line Dirty Harry's 9015's... and man do they grip.... I also have some Pro-Line Knuckles and they work VERY good as well.... more of an all-terrain tire...

Two weeks ago we ran the track when it was dry and loose... HUGE difference from a damp terrain. The car was much squirlier... but thats normal... it happens when I motorcross as well.... last week we soaked the track.. and man.. the car was doing warp speed.... and covered the straights like a funny car and shot straight as an arrow....

[Bus Driver]

Your running 3,000 in the rear.Change that and put 1,000 in it and leave the others and you will notice a big difference.

[Mudvayne]

I finally got around to putting my shocks together on my mbx5 and have 1 question. I filled up with the fluid and got the bubbles out alright and everything, and also put the rubber nipple thing that comes with them inside of the cap. I am unable to screw the cap all the way down to the end of the threads. I could, but I would have to break out the pliers and really crank down on them which I think would not be a good idea. I've got them tightened down pretty good just using my hands and no fluid is leaking out. Is this ok? Thanks in advance.

[Bus Driver]

Yes.

[not.enough.toys]

Originally posted by the rock
NOT.ENOUGH

if most of your problem was fixed by different tires... im going to guess that the real problem is the track conditions. What kind of dirt is it? Sounds like its dry and loose....

Im currently using some Pro-Line Dirty Harry's 9015's... and man do they grip.... I also have some Pro-Line Knuckles and they work VERY good as well.... more of an all-terrain tire...

Two weeks ago we ran the track when it was dry and loose... HUGE difference from a damp terrain. The car was much squirlier... but thats normal... it happens when I motorcross as well.... last week we soaked the track.. and man.. the car was doing warp speed.... and covered the straights like a funny car and shot straight as an arrow....

I am so frustrated that something as stupid as tire selection would make such a difference. I mean, I'm not running slicks on a sandy surface. I was using the stock tires , which look like they would be perfect for my track. The track has a hardpacked surface with loose sandy/clay mixture on top. I figured that because the car is 4wd, that it would pull itself along no matter what the conditions. Or, am I wrong. I am also using a rex p5, which is just insane. I hit the throttle and the tires just light up, and then the car is a handfull to control. I watch other people, and their cars seem to pull a little better than mine. Maybe it's just throttle control. I am going to try the carb restrictor to tame this thing, and make it more driveable. Anyhow, I appreciate any advice people are willing to give. Thanks.

[needinpower]

Throttle control n.e.t. It sounds like your always spinning the tyres.
That's the main reason I went with a sport engine instead of a race engine.

Rock,
yes i can get byron fuel here just let me know how you want to work it. Powermaster is nice fuel, did you have no luck with it

[the rock]

i dont think i would add the restrictor... just keep it the way it is and use more throttle control as you say. let your finger be the restrictor... such a nice motor as the p5 you want that power at your finger tips when you need it... I have the sw7-II and man it can it lay some power down as well...

once you get more used to the power you will be able to control it more and more. its like riding a 250 motorcross bike... you need to be easier on the thottle and control your "wrist yanks" MUCH more than a 125. You just cant be in the rpm's as high on a 250 as you can on a 125... keep practing and your skills will increase... BUT your tire choice does make a huge diffrence..

rock

[the rock]

NEEDIN

well I have tried it before on other cars and they just didnt seem to run the same.

im REALLY glad you can help. Let me see what my cousin comes up with early this week... if he has trouble ill ask you for the big favor :)

I could just get an account number from you and I will deposit you the money for fuel and shipping etc. Im looking to get around 15 gallons.

thanks a million NEEDIN

[needinpower]

anytime dude
Happy to help

[the rock]

:cool:

[not.enough.toys]

I changed the diffs to 3 f, 10 m, 1 r, and the buggy seems to drive better. I am also suffering from a huge amount of glitching. I hold the buggy, give it half throttle, and the steering servo jerks rapidly side to side. So, when I give it throttle out of a turn instead of going where it should, it is going somewhere else. AAAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhh. It wasn't the car, it wasn't the diffs, it wasn't me, it was the glitching.

[the rock]

it sounds like your reciever has some condensation... water maybe?

[not.enough.toys]

I don't think it is water. I am using a cheap am radio for this. I also have a jr xs which I like alot,but my car collection is growing, and the xs only holds 6 models. So, I am reluctant to buy more jr recievers.

[nad138]

n.e.t, I would do the following :

- open up the receiver case and blow air in it. Try cleaning the components with a soft brush.
- check the receiver wire if there are any cuts that might expose the wire itself.
- check the wires of the servos and the battery also.
- check if the manifold and pipe makes contact. There should be sufficient space between the two.
- check the pipe holder also.
- receiver packs bouncing around the case also causes glitches. Try and put foam inside the case to make a snug fit so it doesn't move around.

[the rock]

NEEDIN

Well I used some of the Power Masters fuel and I have to say one thing.... IT ROCKS!!! I make my car so much more powerfull... really weird... I had to re-tune the carb... but man... what a difference... looks like ill be sticking to powermasters..

Thx

[needinpower]

I agree rock,
I'm using powermaster now and have no problems at all. It's great fuel.
What % nitro are you using?

[the rock]

NEEDIN

its 20% nitro and 16% lubrication.

whats yours?

[needinpower]

I'm using 30% because of the altitude here. There are some guys using byron and some home mixes but from what I see, the only guys without tuning probs are those running powermaster.

So when are you coming to the big smoke to race (beat) all the KII drivers?

[needinpower]

Also Rock,
are you going to the 1/8 nacional Off Road ??

It's in Monterray on the 8th and 9th of November.

[not.enough.toys]

Originally posted by nad138
n.e.t, I would do the following :

- open up the receiver case and blow air in it. Try cleaning the components with a soft brush.
- check the receiver wire if there are any cuts that might expose the wire itself.
- check the wires of the servos and the battery also.
- check if the manifold and pipe makes contact. There should be sufficient space between the two.
- check the pipe holder also.
- receiver packs bouncing around the case also causes glitches. Try and put foam inside the case to make a snug fit so it doesn't move around.

I found the steering servo had some wire exposed (probably from the center diff). I covered it in shrink wrap, and took it for a test drive. Still glitched, though not as bad. I did encounter a few dead spots, no response whatsoever from the car. But, I did list some items on ebay to help pay for a new radio.

[nad138]

n.e.t.,

If you have another car, borrow that ones' receiver and see if it still glitches. It's just a process of elimination. Good luck.

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, im gettin a new o.s. vz motor for my mbx5 and i was wondering if anyoen has it in there cars curently? is the low and mid-range power good and consistant, and cooling wise how is it. well anyone here in illinois goin to the november fall classic championship?

[Bus Driver]

I here they run hot and the compression is gone fast in them.If you are using 30% fuel you have to add the 3rd shim.