Mugen MBX5 Buggy Forum v1.0

[Bus Driver]

I quailified for the nats just cant afforred to go to cali.

[not.enough.toys]

wooooooohoooooooooo. Man I love spending money! KO Mars R and 2344 servo is on it's way.

[the rock]

NEEDIN

Id love to go... and kick some k2 bootty...

I was born in Mexico City.... maybe I can head back to visit some relatives ;)

[needinpower]

Just tell me when Rock and i'll organise it.

I tried the Proline Knuckles, these things hook up really well. Very impressed. I'm running on hard packed, uneven dirt. Even in the wet they outperform the crimefighters.

[eb4kidd12]

yea i hear that to about the motor what about the rz, i have a great deal on that thing.

[not.enough.toys]

Got to drive the x5 with my new Mars R and Ko2344 servo. What a difference. No glitching whatsoever. And this servo is faaaaasssssssttt. I switched diff oils to 10c,3f,1r, only because someone else suggested that, but I am going to go back to 7,5,2.

And to think that all this aggravation was caused by glitching. Not only did I change the setup more times than the entire Mugen team, but I also listed it on ebay because of this.

Glad that nobody bought it.

Glad to be back.

[nitro22]

Congrats on making the Nats Bus driver. To bad you can't go. It's big money to go across the country to race:(

I think I saw some place you had some racing vids online. Maybe the starting grid? But the links were broken. Any chance of you posting some again?

[the rock]

NOT.ENOUPH

:cool:

[JeffS]

So, I've been racing 1/10th truck for this season, finally stepped up and got a MBX-5 to go 1/8th scale racing. Yesterday was my first race with anything 1/8th, so I entered Sportsman since I wasn't sure how it'd go. Ended up TQ'ing in class in all 3 heat races, would have qualified 4th in expert and was 4th overall out of all racers - Not too shabby. Won the Sportsman main by a lap, so time to move up to expert!

Setup wise, I ran this:

Front:
350 oil, stock pistons and springs
2.1mm swaybar
Upper arm caster, all clips behind arm, so arms are fully forward
-2.5 degrees camber
Full travel on the arms
Ackerman link shimmed up 3mm.

Rear:
350 oil, stock pistons and springs
2.6mm swaybar
2.5 degrees toe in
-2 degrees camber
Full travel on the arms

Diffs:
F - 5
C - 7
R - 2

Tires:
Pro-Line Crimefighter M2's all around

Overall, I saw very little bumpsteer after shimming up the ackerman link. The car handled very well over bumps, turn in, turn out. I was originally running the caster in the stock location, but moved the arms all the way forward to get better mid corner steering, which worked out great - I was able to stay on the gas almost the whole way through our sweepers. The car was very stable and ran strong the whole day.

Here are some pics:

http://www.******.net/deltarc-10-11-03/page_01.htm

http://www.******.net/deltarc-10-11-03/IMG_0460.JPG
http://www.******.net/deltarc-10-11-03/IMG_0446.JPG
http://www.******.net/deltarc-10-11-03/IMG_0456.JPG
http://www.******.net/deltarc-10-11-03/IMG_0573.JPG

-Jeff

[NoleC5]

Wow Jeffs!!! Those are some AWESOME pics!!! Great racing!!

I raced yesterday also with my MBX5 and did fairly well, but the day did end on a dissapointing note. This was only my 6th race ever and I TQed and won all three of the qualifiers. But the main didn't go so well. Got off to a real bad start, someone hacked me pretty good in the second turn and I was fighting my way back the whole race. I worked my way all the way back up to second and was closing on the leader, probably only a few seconds back, when I flamed out for some reason. Have no idea what happened. The only thing I can think of was that something caught the flywheel and killed the motor. I was able to run down and get it started again and run one more lap to finish third. All in all, a good day I guess, as I'm still learning!!

[Hyper_Ike]

Jeffs--NICE Body, did you do that. Looks good. And congrats. Is that a TOP SBK in your buggy? It looks like my SBK I just installed this week. How do you like it? I ran mine today, and I was happy with the way it ran, but would have liked a touch more top end. But was still enough to win. I love this buggy. What gearing are you running?


Does anybody know when the crowd pleazer body will be available. My LHS told me he's got one on back order?

[speedydave]

Jeff, glad to see you finally decided to post! :p

Has anyone bought any hopups for the buggy yet? I will be ordering the Ratzas ackerman plate, and I am thinking about ordering either the Mugen, Racer's Edge, or Ratzas towers and Mugen or RE chassis braces. What are everyone's thoughts on the different hopups out for the buggy right now?

[Twist 2 Go]

Hi, I'm looking at maybe getting an 1/8 scale buggy for racing at my local track. Are there any upgrades needed for the mbx5 or are they good to go right outta the box? I have a nice radio and servos, but what pipe and engine would you recommend too? Thanks in advance.

[JeffS]

Originally posted by Hyper_Ike
Jeffs--NICE Body, did you do that. Looks good. And congrats. Is that a TOP SBK in your buggy? It looks like my SBK I just installed this week. How do you like it? I ran mine today, and I was happy with the way it ran, but would have liked a touch more top end. But was still enough to win. I love this buggy. What gearing are you running?


Does anybody know when the crowd pleazer body will be available. My LHS told me he's got one on back order?

Yep, that's a TOP SBK01 in mine. It's a stump puller, thats for sure. I actually ran only a 75% throttle EPA since I was only on my 12th tank when I took it to the track. I spent the qualifiers dialing in the tuning, but got it right for the main. It does poop out on the top end, but for most US tracks, it shouldn't be too much of a problem. I'm running stock gearing, seems to be about right for our track. It was my first time ever racing an 1/8th and only the 2nd time driving one ever, so I'm taking it slow learning things. :) So far, I love the buggy and it's not doing anything odd setup-wise, so, cool!

-Jeff

[Mudvayne]

I'm pretty much done with putting together my mbx5. I have a JR xs3 radio that I am putting in it. I noticed that the servo arms that come with it are kind of small and weak looking. Are these good enough to use in the mbx5? Should I order a better set of arms? If so what would yall recommend? Thanks in advance.

[Mudvayne]

By the way, those pics look beautiful! Can't wait to see mine on the track.:D

[not.enough.toys]

mudvayne,

I am using black dynamite aluminum servo horns for both throttle and steering.

[NoleC5]

I currently have the RE Pro Series front and rear shock towers on my MBX 5 and they have been great so far. The only gripe I have so far is that I think the front tower is a little to tall and I have to push the body down a little to get the body clip hole to pop through. Wondering if I installed something wrong... :-/

On a little bit of a side note, some friends of mine are about to start producing their own line of hop up parts for the MBX 5 and Kyosho 7.5 series. As soon as they are available, I will post some pics incase anyone is interested.

[nad138]

Jeff, great pics man ;)

Twist-2-go, I've been winning some races with bone stock parts. It's one of the best kits out there that doesn't need hop-ups to win.

Mudvayne, I'd go with either Ofna or GS servo arms. They're pretty good in my opinion.

Right now, I have the RE front/rear shocks and they are great. I also noticed that the front is a few mm taller. I also have Ratza's ackerman plate and it sure is beefy. Just waiting on my Mugen chasis braces and that's all I ever need for this buggy. Don't want to add more weight to it.

[JeffS]

I agree for the most part that the stock parts ware excellent, but I can see the weak links being the shock towers, ackerman link and chassis braces. I'm planning on giving the whole slew of Raatzas stuff a try in the near future, particularly the ackerman link since I currently have a 3mm stack of washers underneath mine, which makes me a little nervous from a strength perspective.

-Jeff

P.S. Credit to speedydave for the great pics of my buggy! :) :)

[OldskoolGT]

The stock ackerman plate is definitely a POS, and will fail at the worst possible time. Either buy an aftermarket one or buy another Mugen one, cut the ends off and epoxy it to the bottom of the ackerman plate. This will replace the washers and strengthen the part at the same time.

[nitro22]

Is the Ratazs stuff black in color? or is it gun metal like the stock Mugen color?

[Godspeed]

Anyone knows the prices of the option shock towers and the ackerman plate from mugen? RE's stuffs seems more expensive than ratzas.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Godspeed
Anyone knows the prices of the option shock towers and the ackerman plate from mugen? RE's stuffs seems more expensive than ratzas.

I think www.ace-hobbies.com carries the mugen option parts. I bought my RE shock towers from them. But I do like the black color better than the gold of the RE parts.

[nad138]

Ratza's ackerman plate is black. Mugen's parts costs slightly higher than those of RE's.

[Godspeed]

Cool..Thanks. Guess i will go with RE's or Ratzas. :)

[speedydave]

Go with the Ratzas. It looks plenty strong, and you can flip it over so one side has the stock bump steer settings, and the other side is raised 3mm, which eliminates the need for the washers. :)

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, man i just got my rz , and damn this thing flys!!!!! i love it, so much better than before. it has great top speed, any1 know a good pipe tp use cuz mines crappy with low end.

[Twist 2 Go]

What's the best pipe and engine to get? I'm not new to nitro but I am to 1/8 scale. I don't want to buy something and then realize in a month or so, I need something else. Thanks, Rick

[the rock]

well im running a RB WS7-II motor with an RB 9886 pipe... and man... it shreads... top end is unreal... the powerband sounds and takes off like a 2-stroke 250 bike...

[the rock]

i just ordered these parts... should work nice...

www.mugenseiki.com

under "whats new"

part numbers:

E0311 - SERVO SAVER PLATE (a must)
E0118 - REAR LOWER ARM SUPPORT
E0120 - FRONT TENSION ROD
E0121 - REAR TENSION ROD

E0119 - FRONT LOWER ARM SUPPORT

[nad138]

Originally posted by eb4kidd12
hey guys, man i just got my rz , and damn this thing flys!!!!! i love it, so much better than before. it has great top speed, any1 know a good pipe tp use cuz mines crappy with low end.

If you can find one, get the OS T-2050, will complement your RZ pretty good. Smooth all around, from low to top.

[wjj]

Does anyone know if the new mugen body will fit on a kyosho?

[TheRo0sTer]

Ok question of the Century...

How does it handle right out of the Box? If I am going to invest $900+ to get back into 1/8th I don't want to have to spend more money on Hop-Ups to make it work! LMK by e-mail I don't always remember to look back here later.:rolleyes: Anyone here race at The Dirt in Hemet California? Set-up work there? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Mail me here!!! (anthony.escobedo@lajes.af.mil)

[Mudvayne]

I finally got to the hobby shop today to pick up my final supplies to finish my mbx5. When I asked if they had 30% car fuel they refused to sell it to me. I will be running an O.S. vz-b 21 engine and was wanting to go with 30% and just add the third shim. Anyway this guy here says he's been racing for years and I will not need anything over 20% nitro. I'm not a newbie by the way as far as racing goes, I can handle the power. He kept telling me that the 30% would tear my engine up quick. Is he correct? He talked me into buying 20% blue thunder fuel. Is this a good fuel to use for breaking in? How should this fuel work with this engine? If it's still going to have a heck of alot of power I don't care, it's just that I keep on hearing people say they are using 30% nitro on there 21 size engines. Also 1 more question, I bought some super strength dubro servo horns for my jr xs3 radio and put the linkages together and everything. I noticed that when I tighten down the screws that hold the throttle and brake rods to the horns they don't move. Now if I loosen them just a bit they seem to move pretty smoothly. Is this normal. This may be a dumb question but I'm not used to this kind of set up. I fly planes and we have ez connectors where this is totally different. It just seems like a weird set up to me, I've only built one kit prior to this one and the set up was completely different, there was just a washer on the bottom holden the rods on. I would think that the screws would eventually come loose or something, well, I guess that is what maintenance is for.lol I apologize for the long post but just want to get this thing up and running. Thanks in advance.

[nitro22]

Rooster. The buggy works great out of the box. I don't think you need anything. A good starting set up that I use is. Diffs front=5000 center=7000 rear=1000. Stock grey springs front 45 weight rear 40 weight. Front shocks inside on the tower out on the arms. Rear outside on the tower inside on the arms.

I also have a WSII with the 86 pipe and long manifold and it rips.

[speedydave]

Yeah, it handles awesome out of the box. If you run those diff oils, be sure not to run the small(S3) o-rings in the front and center diffs. Right now I'm running Losi 40/35 F/R, and I won't say my diff setup because it's all whacked and I'm going to try something new soon(5/7/2 F/C/R). Kyosho makes 2k oil, which is sold on Tower, so I'm going to try some of that(since 2k rear seems to be the hot ticket).

[WHITESTER1]

I just cant resist. I tried my best, but I couldn't stop myself....

This past weekend, my local race track held a big race, called the Fall Classic. Well to make a long story short.......

The 1/8th scale A main consisted of ALL Mugen MBX 5's and 1 OFNA 9.5 Pro..... Guess who whooped them Mugen's? The OFNA 9.5, with me at the controls! LOL! :eek:

Mugen better go back to the drawing board. They can't hang with my OFNA! I have many videos to prove it......

JUST CLICK HERE FOR an OFNA WHOOPING THE MUGENS!! LOL (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1195291#post1195291)

I just thought I would let everyone here know... I hope I made your day.. HAHA! All Mugen's vs. 1 OFNA 9.5

[nitro22]

Ofna's are a lot better then they use to be. It is mostly on the driver. So congtrats on your win.


I know a lot of people say not to run the o-rings. Some are saying that the diffs weep to much fuild with out them. I guess I never asked before. What is the reason for running with out the o-rings? What does it do?

[OldskoolGT]

Originally posted by WHITESTER1

I just thought I would let everyone here know... I hope I made your day.. HAHA! All Mugen's vs. 1 OFNA 9.5

Ouch!!! Pretty impressive, especially when you consider the 9.5 weighs 1 pound more than the X5.


nitro22,

Regarding the o-rings, the ones people talk about not running are 4 that go behind each pinion gear and do not seal anything, but provide friction, not the 2 that seal the oil in. The reason that the diffs leak is due to bad o-rings, which most kits seems to include.

[the rock]

WHITES

good driving!!! Congrats

Well I spoke to the mugen guys. And he told me he puts greace around the o-ring and it totally eliminates the leaking.

Today I got my set of mbx-4 o-rings as I have read that this cures it also. Im going to try the greace first. I will run it this weeknd for the first time with the greace and will report my findings....

rock

[WHITESTER1]

Thanks! I had to come hear and bust chops, because it will more than likely not happen again!

The OFNA 9.5 is a pig! It's the heavyist buggy on the track! Even with all the graphite it still is heavy. I have tried everything to lighten it, except trade it in for a MBX 5! :D

I drove my buddies Mugen during practice. After driving his, I didn't want to drive my OFNA ever again. His Mugen MBX 5 was the easiest to drive hard and fast, buggy I have ever driven. You see how rough the track is in the video. The Mugen's just soaked up the choppy bumps.

Later! Long Live OFNA !

"Don't OFNA hate, try and catch it out the gate!"

[Mudvayne]

For some reason when I installed the black plastic peices to the sides of the chassis I cannot tighten the bolts all the way. There is a groove cut out for the locknuts to go in but once I almost get done tightening the bolts they just spin around in the grooves. So now the plastic plates or whatever they are called(sorry on terminology.lol) are pretty loose. I tried taking pliers and squeezing down but with no luck. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[nad138]

Mudvayne, that's one of my gripes when I was building the kit. What I did was use a vise grip on the plastic grooves itself to lock the nut, the start wrenching.

Whitester, cool vids. It's always the driver that makes the car look good and handle good. Congrats.

[Mudvayne]

Thanks, I'll give that I try, and I agree 100%. It's all about the driver and not the car. When I raced .12 rc10's all I had was a stock one with zero hop-ups on it. A friend of mine upgraded his rc10 in everyway way possible, even putting a much better engine in it. He still could not beat me for nothing. He kept saying"this makes no sense, my car is alot better than yours, there is no reason why you should still be beating me, this makes no sense, my engine must not be running right or something" I told him there is one upgrade that he left out.......driving skills.

[drew840]

just got my buggy and now i need to get some new electronics... i was thinking of going the cheap route and getting the Airtronics mx 3 controller OR ... taking the more expensive route and getting that really nice JR xs3 controller... Of these two,, my problem is what type of servos do I need to upgrade to??? Just how strong and fast of a servo does everyone recommend for the Mugen buggy???? thanks..

[Mudvayne]

If I'm not mistaken, the servos that come with the xs3 are great. It even comes with a high torque steering servo as well. The only thing you may have to upgrade are the servo arms. They are a little on the weak side but I heard that GS and OFNA are great horns to use if you can find them.

[OldskoolGT]

drew840,

If you plan on racing, I suggest you get the fastest most powerful servos you can afford. For steering I think a buggy needs at least 100 ounces of torque, and neither of the servos that come with the XS3 has that much. I'd also suggest not skimping on the throttle/break servo either. Since the Mugen only has dual disc brakes, they are not particularly powerful. So a standard servo there would translate into weak slow brakes.

[NoleC5]

On the servo subject, I agree totally. I started with an Airtronics M8 and used the crappy servo that comes with it on my brakes and bout a JR servo for the steering. The steering servo broke after one week of racing.

I have since upgraded to a hitech 5945 digital on the steering and a regular 945 for the brakes. I love both of them.

Now, does anyone know where you can buy metal servo horns on the web that are specifically for hitech servos? I hate the ones with the stupid plastic inserts. I have found the one for the steering, think Dynamyte makes it, but I'm having a hard time finding the dual ones for the throttle.

Thanks!

[nad138]

Ofna also makes the aluminum ones but uses inserts. I've used a couple of these in my MTs and they're holding up fine.

As for the radio question, I have the MX-3 and I like it. It has most of the functions found in the M8. Later on, I wanted some more options and went to the M8 and have been using it since. All I can say on servos is get something more the 150oz for both steering and throttle/brakes and you'll never go back. I've had both Hitec and Airtronics and I love them both. I've also tried the Ko Propo and I like it too (digital).

[nad138]

Nole, I forgot...there's another rc site out there were Hitec has it's own forum. Their techs usually hang out there and answer any Hitec questions. I don't know if it's appropriate to say where the other site is here so email me at nad@digitelone.com if you haven't seen it yet.

[JeffS]

Originally posted by nad138
Nole, I forgot...there's another rc site out there were Hitec has it's own forum. Their techs usually hang out there and answer any Hitec questions. I don't know if it's appropriate to say where the other site is here so email me at nad@digitelone.com if you haven't seen it yet.

http://www.rctech.net/ Go to the forums, Hitec has one there. Very helpful usually.

-Jeff

[nad138]

LOL...that's the one I was referring to...

[NoleC5]

Thanks!!!!:D

[OldskoolGT]

Nole,

What's wrong with the plastic servo horns that come with the servos? I prefer plastic horns, because aluminum horns eventually develop slop in my experience.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
Nole,

What's wrong with the plastic servo horns that come with the servos? I prefer plastic horns, because aluminum horns eventually develop slop in my experience.

I thought a lot of guys use the metal ones for this same reason, that the plastic ones tend to flex more.

I just don't feel to confident with the way my throttle linkage is setup. The side for the brakes......where the screw goes throug the two plastic pieces that hold the brake rods.....that doesn't seem to secure to me.

I was hoping to get a metall servo horn that was a little taller that would alow me to put a nut at the bottom of that screw......

Any other suggestions? Any one have pics of how they set this up??
Thanks

[OldskoolGT]

I don't worry about that screw coming undone. In over 20 gallons of racing (spread over 3 buggies) I have never had any brake linkage fail.


Here's what you could do though, get a longer screw and flip the assembly over, so the screw head is at the bottom and the screw is sticking out through the top. Then you can put a nut on top.

[T-Maxxahol]

Old skool Gt that is a good Idea

Nole.. I think you got lucky I had exactly what his fear was happen to me in one season on a XR..
a freind had it happen to his x5 in only a month or two it does happen, you just got lucky.. or maybe our endpoints are set up too high I run my brakes to be strong just shy of lock up at full speed...................any thoughts

[nad138]

O.GT's idea is what I did on both my K2 and X5. After you set that up, it's fire and forget.

[T-Maxxahol]

sorry Nole think I read that wrong I was tired and hurried........

[speedydave]

This (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1145384) is the only pic I have of my linkage setup right now. I just set it up according to instructions and how it all came. I mean, Mugen had to have done it that way for a reason, right? They wouldn't put a faulty design into production. I do use an aluminum servo horn, but mainly because I couldn't find a good plastic horn for my servo. I would think aluminum horns would stress the servo more by transmitting more of the stress from the brake to the servo's gears, while the plastic horn flexes a little bit(though I seriously doubt it flexes much), taking a small amount of shock off the gears. I doubt it makes much of a difference.

[OldskoolGT]

I just noticed that my Kyosho has the setup like I mentioned, with a lock nut at the top to prevent the linkage from coming undone. Those Kyosho guys are pretty smart, the buggy comes like that stock.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
I just noticed that my Kyosho has the setup like I mentioned, with a lock nut at the top to prevent the linkage from coming undone. Those Kyosho guys are pretty smart, the buggy comes like that stock.

I've noticed this too Oldskool, was thinking of trying the kanai linkage on the MBX5, anyone try this yet?

Oh as a side note, don't remember who suggested it, but this weekend I put a dab of CA on the brake side of the throttle linkage and it held up like a champ, no problems, even through the 20 min main. Oh, but after the 20 min main, I did notice that my front chasis brace had come come loose, not sure how long I ran without it but didn't notice much of a difference, if at all.

[eb4kidd12]

yea, i never did use the mugen linkage, i just took the one off of my eb-4 and it works amazing. it never came loose or nothing, i use springs instead of fuel tubing, because i think it works better. as for the servo arm, i use the plastic one i really dont see the need for aluminun, seeing how it doesnt take abuse like the steering servo.

[NoleC5]

Does anyone know where I can buy a "Personal Transponder" on-line? I can't seem to find one and I need to get one for an upcoming race.

Thanks!

[speedydave]

Only place I can think of is eBay...I just checked, there are a few on there now.

[FlyinRazorback]

http://www.amb-it.com/

[cpittmx]

Hello all, Im fairly new to the hobby just jumped into the world of R/C in June with an ofna mbx pro. a few weeks ago a guy at meet at the local track let me drive his mbx 5. the following week I was the owner of a mbx 5! awesome car it turns on a dime. the comparison between the mugen and the ofna is like comparing a 1978 chevy malibu station wagon the new ferrari enzo!

anyway a couple questions for my first post.
first: isn't there a brake linkage system that has thumb adjustment screws to independantly make fine adjustments to the front and rear bakes?

second: what kind of paint is being used on this buggy? Are those just normal red and blues or are thos some sort of colored chrome paints? they don't really look like chrome but seem extra shiny. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3152894310&category=49214

[OldskoolGT]

The stock brake linkage allows the brakes to be adjusted independently of each other via thumbscrews.

[Digimortal]

Man this really ticks me off.lol I went ahead and put some high torque hitec servos in my mbx5. Has anyone else that has used these notice that if you follow the directions the steering servo will not fit in the holder properly? Well, I got them installed alright and everything but here is my problem. When I went to take off the standard plastic horn that comes with the servo I stripped out the bolt really bad on accident. Now I cannot remove the wheel. Is there anyway I can get this darn screw out now even if it is stripped really bad? Like are there any secrets to removing stripped bolts? Thanks in advance.

[the rock]

DIG

well im not sure what part you mean you stripped, but if its the head of the screw you can do the following:

With a thin cutting wheel on a dremal, cut a groove all the way across over the head so you can turn the screw with a flathead screw driver.

That should do the trick.

[TheRo0sTer]

Can anyone tell me what the MAIN differences are between the MBX4 and the MBX5? I mean I have seen pics and the Upper arms look the same. I can tell the screw holes in the 5 chassy are closer together. Oh and of course the steering servo is layed down. But can any of the other 4 parts be used to convert my 4 to a 5 ie; Torsen Diffs, Center Diff mounts?

[OldskoolGT]

The X5 is a completely new and different car, you will not be able to make your MBX4 into a X5.

The suspension arms on the X5 are much longer than the MBX4 and now mount to the bulkheads. The engine has also been pushed forward.

[TheRo0sTer]

Thanks OSGT that is the info I was looking for. That's the kewl thing about eBay you can get that stuff fairly cheap. I was only looking at the Main components Diffs, Center Diff Mount CVDs and what not. You have any to compair the lenghts on?

[cpittmx]

i dont have thumb screws to adjust my brakes, it just has the collar type thing with a set screw on each linkage. doesnt kyosho have like the same collar thing on the end of the linkage and then where it attaches to the servo horn thumb screws to make more precise adjustments...and also easier to adjust?

[cpittmx]

duh! ok i see you make adjustments not only by loosening the set screw and changing the position, but you can use that piece to turn the linkage further into or out of the saddle that attaches it to the servo. right?

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by cpittmx
duh! ok i see you make adjustments not only by loosening the set screw and changing the position, but you can use that piece to turn the linkage further into or out of the saddle that attaches it to the servo. right?

Right.

[winning edge designs]

Have any of you guys seen the Ratzas shock towers and steering rack for the MBX5 yet? I picked some up at the Tampa Gas championships this weekend. These things are trick, WAY stiffer, unbendable, plus the rack lessens the annoying bump steer biult into the car!.......Jim

[nitro22]

Are those the black ones? Only seen them on the net. Does anyone know of any colored ones besides the blue Fioroni?

[speedydave]

I've only seen the stuff on Ratzas' site so far, but I ordered the ackerman plate, so I should see it in 3-5 business days. :D

[the rock]

Can someone pleeeaaase explain exactly what bump steering is???

[OldskoolGT]

Bump steer is what the X5 has a lot of. Haha. I kill me.


Bump steer is when the wheel changes the direction it is facing as the suspension is compressed, with no input from the steering. On your X5, grab a front wheel and turn it all the way inward. Then move the suspension up and down. You can see the wheel will turn serveral degrees back and forth as the suspension is cycled. Ideally, you want zero bumpsteer. But for some unknown reason Mugen decided to make the buggy with the most bump steer of any buggy ever.

[the rock]

thanks Oldshool....

[Digimortal]

I just recently upgraded my servos and went with a Hitec 645mg for the steering and a Hitec 625mg for the throttle/brake. All I need now is a better battery pack. I heard that going with a 5 cell 1200mAH Ni-MH and I think something around 6 volts would be best for these servos. I can't find one anywhere, at least any that will fit in the small battery case on the mbx5. I have a friend who owns a hobbyshop who said he can order anything I need, it's just he deals with planes and knows nothing about the cars. What would be the best choice to go with, such as brand, type, etc. Thanks in advance.

[nitro22]

I have a reedy 1200 hump pack cost around 20-25 and fits and works great

[needinpower]

Digimortal,
you need a 5 cell hump pack. check out acehobbies. Good guys and good prices.

Finally, some pics of my car. A little beaten now after 3 races.

[needinpower]

Next

[needinpower]

And another

[winning edge designs]

Nitro, yes, the Ratzas ones are the black ones. They are machined very well, I was impressed with the fit of the arm hinge pin bushings in the towers. The fit was better then Mugens origional fit!....The rack can be installed two different ways, since it is machined offset, really sweet stuff............Jim

[needinpower]

last one....

[eb4kidd12]

hey guys, well i got my new rz, and i decided to take a picture of it, not the best pic but o well here it is,

[Mudvayne]

Hey, I just picked up a gallon of Sidewinder race blend 30% nitro/ 12% oil. Is this good to go with on my O.S. .21 VZ-B? This will also be my break-in fuel. The guy at my LHS said it should be good, "it's what Degani used" is what he said and it worked to sell me some. This is pretty much all I can find in the area I am in anyway so I was hoping that he was right and not just trying to make a sale. Thanks in advance. I am looking to race this car rather than for bashing.

[the rock]

hey guys... just spoke to the guy at racinghardcore.com

and they will have a bunch of titanium aftermarket parts in about two weeks... front and rear lower brackets, shock towers, steering bracket.... even the chassi....

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Mudvayne
Hey, I just picked up a gallon of Sidewinder race blend 30% nitro/ 12% oil. Is this good to go with on my O.S. .21 VZ-B? This will also be my break-in fuel. The guy at my LHS said it should be good, "it's what Degani used" is what he said and it worked to sell me some. This is pretty much all I can find in the area I am in anyway so I was hoping that he was right and not just trying to make a sale. Thanks in advance. I am looking to race this car rather than for bashing.

I read an interesting post about this fuel on sgrid a few days ago. The story kind of went like this: A guy was having trouble getting the temps down on his motor, was running around 300 with the sidewinder fuel. Someone suggested he switch fuels which he did, he tried Maxy's. The temps went right down to the 180 range just by changing the fuel.

This did sound very odd to me, but it was posted by a reliable source, I think.

[OldskoolGT]

You are supposed to use Byron's fuel in a Mugen (that's what Team Mugen runs). :)


I have several friends that use Sidewinder and it works well for them, so I think its good stuff.


You might want to add a shim to your VZ-B if you run 30%. I hear the stock head clearance is very low, something like 0.12.

[nad138]

I've been using Maxy's ever since a friend let me try a tank of his 30%. It's nothing dramatic like a ~90F drop but it did pull the temp down. Plus the oil residue is clearer than the one I used to have.

[nitro22]

I really like Byrons. I been using it for a few years now. You can get it in 20,25 and 30%

[Mudvayne]

I added the third shim that came with the engine. I think I'll just stick with this fuel. It's the only kind that I can find around here anyway. Thanks. I'll bring it to my track and see what everyone else is using and where they get their's from, that should be a good idea.Duh.lol

[cpittmx]

Has anyone checked out the article in Xrc Cars. They talk about Chad Bradleys set-up on his MBX-5. Some interesting things in the article like how you can adjust the stiffness of the sway bars by changing the position of the sway bar mount. I never thought of that.

I was wondering which chassis braces it shows on his car. I'm thinking they must be the mugen option parts. i like the gun metal type color.

[cpittmx]

who carries the O'donnel heads online? are they making them for the O.S. VZB yet?

[OldskoolGT]

You can also adjust camber and toe in/out by turning those turnbuckles. And you can adjust the ride height by adding or removing the preload spacers above the springs. Haha. Sorry. Sway bars are designed to be adjustable like that. If you want to increase the stiffness, have more bar sticking though the end of the mount


OD heads are always in short supply, so the only place you will usually find them is ebay. And they don't have a VZB head yet.

[the rock]

hey guys...

I just tested my new sway bars... I switched to the mbx4 sway bars and it feels nicer.... I can take faster sweeping turns, I have a section on my track that I would need to take it carefully or stand the chance of flipping sideways... now I charge it everytime at full speed...

[cpittmx]

ok...you would think there would be a distributor that carries odonnell. OH well guess I'll just keep my eyes open.

[speedydave]

Last I heard, O'D won't be making a VZB head unless demand for the engine/head picks up(the engine hasn't been selling well). King Headz (www.kingheadz.com) has a head for the VZB. Their heads seem pretty nice, and the guy I know who has one on his V01b likes it.

[DLF]

Guys, I have an MBX-4 but I'm pretty sure the MBX-5 would have the same problem. The problem is the dogbone end of the CVD's. I find that the pins going thru the sphere of the CVD (at the diff end) tends to slide out after a period of time. The most recent time, a front one slid out and starting striking the diff housing.

Have any of you guys seen this and if so, did you find a way to fix it?

Thanks.
Dana

[speedydave]

In the year+ I've been racing 1/8(MBX4XR and MBX5), I've only had that happen twice. I just make sure I have plenty of threadlock on the setscrew and crank down on it well, but you could take a dremel and cut a slot in the pin for the setscrew to key into if you wanted to. I probably should, but I'm too lazy to pull them out and do it. :rolleyes:

[DLF]

Heh, Speedydave, the other end of the CVD. :D

The end of the cvd that makes up the dogbone is the part I'm talking about. The part of the CVD that slides into the diff outdrive. That pin will work it's way out over a period of time. I've had it happen before and I just knocked it back in with a hammer. However, that doesn't prevent it from doing it again.

I've heard of this happening to some degree on other cars, but nothing else. i never read into it enough to see of those people actually found a solution.

Dana

[speedydave]

Woops, totally missed that when I read your post! I've heard of it happening, but definitely not often. How old are the universals? It might just be wear getting to them.

[DLF]

Well, I'll admit they are pretty old, but then again they did this within the first few months or so of use. I don't want to buy new ones since I plan on getting an MBX5 sometime eraly next year.

Dana

[TheRo0sTer]

Will the MBX4 MIP CVDs fit the X5?

[speedydave]

Nope, too short.

[cpittmx]

I have an O.S. VZB in my X5 and over the winter I'm thinking of adding another engine to my arsenal for spring. I think I'm going to give RB concepts a try. How does the WS7-II compare to the C5?

[FlyinRazorback]

My brother has the WS7II and I have a C5. He has a little more punch than I do, but not much. From mid to top I have a little more. We both run X5's with 13T clutchbell, 1.1 springs, and white shoes. He's using an 86 pipe with waller adapter and I'm using a OS 2050 pipe.

The secret to the C5 is keeping the rpm's up. Once you learn how to drive it, it's an awesome engine.

[winning edge designs]

For all around performance and better bottom end power i'd go with the WS7-II. The C5 is a monster, but only after it gets up to song a little, like on big tracks. It's (C5) also more picky about clutch set-up.......imo, Jim

[cpittmx]

ok..thanks for the info guys. my local track isn't very big so it sounds like the WS7II would be the better choice for me. I'll have to ask Santa for it. :D

[cpittmx]

flyin, I noticed you said white shoes. You're not using the aluminum shoes? Also I have saw ads in magazines that fioroni has for their clutch that comes all preassembled that looks like a nice set up. When i go to their website all I can find is their sliding clutch kits. Anyone have any experience with the fioroni clutches?

[T-Maxxahol]

the sliders engage to early i tried a two shoe turbo and a four.. the two shoe was ok.. but always seemed lose the spring and it would bind upon the flywheel leaving the clutch engaged.. I gave up on it and moved badk to a aluminum three shoe set up. with 1.1 springs...

[FlyinRazorback]

The white shoes have a smoother feel to them. Aluminum are snappy. I wouldn't waste my $$$ on the fioroni clutch. Pretty much a matter of preference but I like the 3 shoe better.

[TheRo0sTer]

Originally posted by speedydave
Nope, too short.

Thanks Dave does NE1 know if Torsen Diffs fit in the X5? I have all 3 in the X4 I have and would like to keep them if possible.

[OldskoolGT]

The MBX5 uses the same diffs as the MBX4 (but with new machined internal gears) , so you should have no problem using any MBX4 diff with the MBX5.

[windellmc]

The trick with the Fioroni Turbo clutch is to take a few coils out of the springs. Basically the spring loses some tension after a few heat cycles and shortening it brings the tension back. Guys around here love the Turbo clutch but it is expensive.

[adim_x]

to whomever was talking about the ws7II, it is a great engine but the rb 5port will eat it up on the low end. i have both the only thing bad about the five port is the crappy cooling head but that can be fixed. they are awesome engines, 200 bucks a pop if that. you will not be disapointed

[winning edge designs]

I believe he was considering either the C5 or the WS7II. The C5 is over $330 usually and has 10 ports, picky about clutch tuning as alot of high end engines are. The RB 5 port is a good economy engine, but i'd be surprised to see one "eat up" a WS7II?, especially if it has had a little clutch tuning......Most of the time if you compare sport engines and race engines, you'll find someone has installed a race engine and not done any pipe or clutch tuning, so they don't realize full potential.....The other thing i've seen is a weaker sport engine out pull a race engine because the sport engine isn't wizzin up the tires as much, or not at all!.....we still haven't even considered driver ability, LOL.......Jim

[OldskoolGT]

I think the RB 5 port is a "race" engine in disguise. It uses all the same parts as a S7, except for the cooling head and sleeve. And they definitely have some mean low end punch.

[the rock]

winning

I have a WS7II, Rossi Black Magic, Picco 01-BP and an Ofna .26 force... and from my experience the WS7II is the best motor from these motors, the top end on the WS7II is also strongest. Maybe it has to do with tuning jobs but they all run strong, and the WS7II is my favorite motor.

Easiest motor to start and tune.... hands down the Picco 01-BP, and a TON of power.

[cpittmx]

Well I am fairly new and im definately not a master driver or tuner. although I have been racing motocross for about 20 years and I think the experience with two strokes helped me pick up on tuning fairly quickly. When I first switched to the VZB I was lighting the wheels up a little to often but I've gotten a little lighter on the throttle and worked that problem out.

Can anyone compare the WS7II to my current engine (VZB)?

[winning edge designs]

Oldskool, I didn't remember the rod being the same on both, but i've been wrong before, LOL. We all know how much of a difference the sleeve makes(Ports) too though.

Rock(a.k.a Scorpion King), I also had a Picco 01, it was a great engine. For tuning and starting I like my O.S. V01B best though, just my opinion. I seem to have more trouble with Picco carbs then others, RB/Novarossi being second only to O.S. usually. Haven't tried a Sirio or Rossi yet, too high priced around here. I've run everything from a O.S. RG, V01B, to a C5, Crono 3, 4 and 5 ports, C4, S7, WS7, Picco Competition/Ofna, 01-BP, Top(Novarossi) and probably a few i've forgotten. After 17 years racing it's getting harder and harder to remember, LOL. I don't want to try adding up the .12 and smaller engines like the .049's, etc, we used to run on string with no radio, hahaha, :).

cpittmax, I can compare two close relatives of those engines, the V 01 B and the WS7. The O.S. 01B pulls a little bit better below 10,000 rpm, not much, but the WS7 beats it mid range and over. The O.S. may be easier to live with weekend to weekend. In fact you can likely leave your screwdrivers at home!..........Kind of a trade off depending on how serious you are into racing and how good you are at tuning, etc.............Jim

[adim_x]

where I race the fastest guys run the 5 ports, I prefer mine too my ws7II. I am pretty good tuner and clutch tuner, and the five port just hits harder. the ws7 would be better on a large flowing track, but for most tracks i have raced at you dont utilize the power due the track size constraints. my rb 5port rips, and when it doesnt, i buy a new one because its cheaper to buy a new one then to rebuild an old one. i have very little carb adj that i have to make seems like week in week out the motor is good.

[the rock]

winning

i still need to try the OS. Ive only heard good things. What is the hose on the case for on the 01BP for? Out of the motors I have its the only motor I dont need a screw driver for, from the first time I started it, and I can actually turn the piston with my hand. Wondering if it has to do with the pressure hose?

[nitro22]

Hey rock how does that black magic run?

[the rock]

nitro

it rocks. it starts fairly easy too. I have 6 tanks to it barley. bottom and mid range are very strong... I bought it for my monster truck. I have a mutant tmaxx. plenty of grunt for this set up.

I put this motor in my x5 and it runs VERY strong. tons of power. i still think my top end powerband is stronger on my ws7II, I swear, it feels like it has a supercharger.

of the subject but the compresion is insane on the sw7II, its the only motor I have had to put a hair dryer to the head when I first started it. I guess thats why it has such a powerfull powerband.

but the black magic is stronger off the line and mid range, it seems as the tires want to rip right off. thats what almost 3hp will do.

cant wait to see how my mutant tears up the track... im just waiting for the 55/12 gear set up.

[TheRo0sTer]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
The MBX5 uses the same diffs as the MBX4 (but with new machined internal gears) , so you should have no problem using any MBX4 diff with the MBX5.

Thanks Oldskool

[nitro22]

Thanks Rock. I never seen one run before. I thought it would be a beast. It looks cool as hell, but $$$$ WOW. I have a RB s7II also, and I'm really happy with it so far.

[the rock]

nitro

the ws7 is still my favorite motor I have. Thats all I run on the x5.

[winning edge designs]

Rock, the hose off the back of the engine to the carb base, or crankcase nose is for crankcase expansion. Some call it a boost bottle, or boost chamber. It basically works to soften engine pulses to the carb and add crankcase size, or volume. It is said to help with carb tunability, as well as idle consistency. I don't really notice a big difference on the track, from an engine with it, to one without. But if you tune with it, then remove it or loose a hose, etc during a run it will make for a bad running engine. I've had the fitting leak, hose, etc. I basically have come to the conclusion that it helps, but not enough for some manufacturers to risk using it due to possible problems from it.......Hope this helps, Jim

[cpittmx]

when i was breaking in my VZB it was very tight. It was hard on my starter box and kept stalling and locking at TDC and I would have to use a screw driver to turn the fly wheel. What I finally did was removed the glow plug and kept filling the cylinder with WD-40 and turning the engine over with my starter box until the WD-40 that was being spit back out the glow plug hole was not all grey and nasty looking...that seemed to work pretty well.

I have been happy with the VZB like others have said it requires almost no tuning after you initially get it set up right. very strong on the bottom. the only other engine I have had was an ofna force .25 so theres not much of a comparison.

The VZB seems good to me, but everyone is always talking the WS7-II or P5 so I want to give one a try. Im definately leaning towards the WS7-II...although the mugen version of the P5 would be kind of cool.

[the rock]

crystal clear.....

thanks winning

[the rock]

gents:

I remember some people complaining about there x5's not going straight. my brother just finished building his x5, durring the building his diff bearing did not fit smoothly, the outside bearing. he had to bang two out of three in. also one of those diff didnt turn PERFECTLY smooth.

first time he ran it hard, as he gunned it, it would turn left... heavily. as he got to about half the tank.... it broke itself in and now darts perfectly straight.

he seemed to have had a TINY case of the problem. Its obvious his diff cases were defected as the bearing went in hard. he has new diff cases and bearing on the way.

[NoleC5]

Okay, I need some tips on these CVD joints. Qualified 5th for the A Main today and the rear drive CVD broke loose coming out of the starting gate!! Very frustrating. This is the third time this has happened to me in the past two months. One time the front right drive broke loose and the other time it was one of the rear cvd drives!!

Any help or tips?
Thanks

[winning edge designs]

Nole, when I biuld my Cvd style universals I always put thread lock on the threads before I grease anything. If you grease the parts before assembly it will stop the thread lock from doing it's job. Also be sure the set screw for the pin is Very tight, to the point were your tool feels like it's gonna give any second. Lastly, if needed use some shrink tube around the outside of the drive cup to hole the pin in place if the set screw gets ejected even after all the prep.

This is all assuming your talking about that end and not the pressed pin on the drive cup end?....If it's happening on the inside pin then you may have a cracked axle near the pin location causing it to loose tension........Maybe the reason Mugen stuff is a little less expensive then Kyosho is that it's cheaper?;)

I haven't had a problem yet, but i've heard alot about this......Jim

[the rock]

Nole

Ive bullet proofed my... I took out the pins and dremeleda a groove where the set screw hits the pin. This allows the pin to stay in place if your set screw comes loose (asuming it has lock tight). And the set screw cant slip around the pin.

rock

[not.enough.toys]

rock- I was one of the people compaining that the buggy was not going straight. However after alot of brainstorming ( or is that brainfarting) I concluded that my servos were glitching like crazy and solved the problem with a new radio and servo. I did notice that tightening the two top screws first on the diff cover resulted in a "crunching" sound.

C5- I had a cvd come apart too, as I was starting it up before the main. I have not done it yet, but I will put the slots in the pin too. Just have to wait until next year when the season starts up again. Man I love New England winters!

[rc10gtisthebest]

Hello MBX5ers.

I am about to purchase my MBX-5 and along with it I was going to purchase:

F&R Aluminum Tension Rods
F&R Aluminum Hinge Pin Braces
R Tension rod mounts
Aluminum Radio Plate Mounts.


Is there anything else besides those things that I should consider buying (besides the obvious running equip).


Thanks a bunch,
Todd

[the rock]

rc10

www.mugenseiki.com

E0118 Rear Lower Arm Support (5mm)
E0119 Al. Front Lower Arm Support

[the rock]

rc10

i would stay away from the aluminum plate... your just adding weight and I have never heard of anyone breaking that plate.

[OldskoolGT]

My friend actually broke the E0119 part. I've also heard of other people breaking it too. I haven't heard of anyone breaking the stock part yet. Its kinda sad and ironic.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Originally posted by the rock
rc10

www.mugenseiki.com

E0118 Rear Lower Arm Support (5mm)
E0119 Al. Front Lower Arm Support

Those are what I meant by the F&R Aluminum Hinge Pin Braces.. Sorry.

Rock, about the plate, I was talking about the Servo Plate Mounts (E0309 & E0310)..

OldSkool, That's pretty damn weird..

[cpittmx]

i think eo309 and eo310 are pretty much just for looks and are going to add weight...the only benefit could be that they may stiffen the buggy up just a little.

[rc10gtisthebest]

So basically I should just get the F&R Tension Rods and Rear Tension rod mount (E0308, E0120 & E0121)

Also is there any other company then Mugen that makes grey or black fuel tubing?

And engine wise I was thinking a CMB EVO2 engine. Does anyone else have any input on the engine?


Thanks,
Todd

[cpittmx]

and the EO311 i bent the stock one on mine...i replaced it with the racers edge ackerman plate, but im sure the mugen one is good...also people on here have been saying good things about the ratzas ackerman plate. I also bent up the front shock tower and replaced that with the racers edge shock tower. I wish i would have got the mugen option parts though cuz i like the color better.

I've wondered about black or grey fuel line also...haven't noticed it anywhere.

[winning edge designs]

The Ratzas stuff seems bullet proof so far. It also comes in Black, my fav, rather then blue like everything else aftermarket........Jim

[needinpower]

Just wondering about the CVD problem.
To the guys having problems, how often do you pull down the car?
I haven't had a problem yet but i'm a little worried that it will happen.
I pull the car down after every two race days and when I undo everything, it's still tight from the threadlock.

[hung_kuen]

Helo everybody:)

I am thinking about purchasing a x5 but in another forum i heard about weak ackerman plates,bump steer,leaky diffs and bad parts fit, please don`t be offended i think the buggy is wery nice.
I am just doin some reserch before i buy something.

Thanks:D

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by needinpower
Just wondering about the CVD problem.
To the guys having problems, how often do you pull down the car?
I haven't had a problem yet but i'm a little worried that it will happen.
I pull the car down after every two race days and when I undo everything, it's still tight from the threadlock.

I've been taking my car down almost after every race. But I haven't been taking the CVD's apart. Someone brought something that I might be doing wrong to my attention recently. I have been going through and tightening the screws on the CVDs every so often, without taking them out and reapplying the locktite. I guess I might have been breaking the seal of the locktite and not realizing it.

But I still would like some universals like the Kanai has.

[the rock]

rc10

i would still get the

E0118 Rear Lower Arm Support (5mm)
E0119 Al. Front Lower Arm Support

im sure its possible to bend the EO119 but its just a matter of hitting something hard enough. Its tech imposible for it to be weaker than the stock one. I bent my stock one almost every weeknd and it finally broke... my new part has not bent once.

Besides you will find that the lower front and rear hinge pins always slide out of place.... they left to much space from factory, and the new parts take away that extra play. Just trying to help on the expirience ive had along with 2 other x5 owners.

racinghardcore.com will have these in titanium in about 2 weeks.

[needinpower]

hung_kuen

Regarding the Ackerman plate and bump steer, yes, the X5 does have problems here.
Leaky diffs??? No worse than the Kanaii from what i've seen. I race against a full field of Kanaii's (around 25 cars) and every one of them lose oil from the diffs and not necessarily any slower or faster than the X5. Put simply, they all leak.

Parts fit?? I thought the car went together superbly. There wasn't one place on the entire car where I experienced a problem. IMO, if you have problems with the X5, you'll have problems with anything else out there.

This is all just my personal experience though.

Go the X5, you won't be dissapointed.

[the rock]

kuen

Ditto on needins responce. My x5 went on flawless while building and I couldnt be any happier. Maybe just when the X6 comes out :eek:

Cant wait for that....

[OldskoolGT]

Rock,

From what I have witnessed, the E0119 doesn't bend, it will just break. I believe it is made from a harder, less elastic aluminum than the stock piece.


Needin,

Kyosho diffs don't leak at all if they are built correctly. I've opened up Kyosho diffs after 5 gallons of fuel throught the buggy and the diffs were still full of oil. With new o-rings, my X5 diffs leak just enough to make a mess inside the bulkhead, but at least now most of the oil stays inside the diff case. :)

[the rock]

could be true oldschool....

racinghardores titanium will be the ticket.

Well I had a SLIGHT oil leak in my diffs... talked to a mugen guy and he said all they do is put some greace around the o-ring. I did it but I still have to take it apart to see if it worked. Ill check them this week.

[cpittmx]

my LHS guy told me you need to use shims on the hinge pins to tighten them up. otherwise the arms slide around and back and forth and wallow out the oval holes that you put those inserts into.

[the rock]

cpi

I shimmed mine while I got the new ones.

pretty funny we are on the subject... i used the stock front plate this weeknd, I couldnt find the new one.... im doing the maintanance right now.... a look what happend.

Second stock one thats broke. :rolleyes:

[the rock]

.

[OldskoolGT]

So much for my theory on the less elastic aluminum. . .

I think that plate just has a bad design. Countersinking the screw hole weakens the part too much.

[the rock]

yeah its really weak there... to thin... I think the ticket is going to be the titanium one.

Im going to a shop tomorrow to see if we can custom make a front aluminum bumper... also so it sits a little under the chassi... so when you hit a rock or something the chassi doesnt take the direct hit. Im also calling racinghardcore tomorrow to see if he can custom design a bumper to eliminate this entire problem... im sure it can be one of his best selling parts for x5's.

this is the only problem i have on the entire car.

[needinpower]

Oldskool,

Kyosho diffs don't leak at all if they are built correctly. I've opened up Kyosho diffs after 5 gallons of fuel throught the buggy and the diffs were still full of oil.

Just going on what I see around me:) sounds like these guys don't know how to build 'em.

But back to the X5 diffs, I guess it is a pain to have leaky diffs but like I said in an earlier post, I rebuild the car after two race days so the amount of oil i'm missing is negligible.

[hung_kuen]

I have finaly decided what buggy to get and have orderd a x5:D from tower a second ago.

So i guess ill see a lot more off you guys :)

[the rock]

CONGRATS KUEN

You have made a wise choice. My x5 is amazing. Its hard to make the car crash even if I try. Seriously!!!

If you need any advise or support we are all here to help eachother..

RIGHT ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[needinpower]

hung_kuen,

You made a great choice which won't leave you dissapointed.
Like rock said, anything you need? We're here for ya.

Cheers

[OldskoolGT]

Hung,


The X5 requires a few fixes for some problems the buggy has when its stock. You will need to find an aftermarket ackerman plate because the stock one bends very easily. Or you can buy another stock one, cut the ends off, and epoxy it to the one on the car to reinforce it. The o-rings that seal the diffs have also been a trouble spot for many X5 owners. I had to replace the stock o-rings with part # T0210 to solve a serious leakage issue.

[the rock]

hung,

unless your jumping off skate ramps I dont see a problem with the ankerman plate. I have about 3 gollans on my car... all at the track... 20 foot triples all day long.... hitting HARD short, clearing it , flipping and crashing and have not one slight bend on my stock ankerman plate. I do suggest putting greace on the diff o-rings, it made my diff leak practicallly disapear... the oil is barly visible under the bearing now.

enjoy your car...

[OldskoolGT]

Rock,

Pretty much everybody bends the stock ackerman plate (although I haven't bent mine either). Its just a matter of time.

[cpittmx]

guess i was unlucky first day of racing 12 foot double...no hard crashes or flips and my ackerman plate was bent. the racers edge ackerman plate has held up nicely though. I think over the winter im going to go to all the mugen option parts though...cuz i think it'll look pretty trick. all i need to find is a black o'donnell head for my vzb!

[hung_kuen]

Good to hear i got a lot off suport cause im gona need it:D
Im new to the 1/8 buggy class.

We are building a track here next spring so finaly i can start racing.

I have wanted a buggy since i started this hobby 1.5 years ago,so know i cant wait to build this baby ( it will take some time since i live in Norway)

here is a list off my order

Mugen 1/8 MBX-5 4WD Buggy
Associated Factory Team Green Slime (witch i can use around o-rings to make the diffs sealed)
Associated Factory Team Silicone Diff Fluid Set (4)
Associated Silicone Shock Oil 40 Weight
Associated Silicone Shock Oil 20 Weight
Hitec HS-5925MG Servo Speed Metal Gear x2

Engine will come soon,just have to wait fore next pay check.

thanks fore all replyes

[the rock]

wow...

it must just be luck.... i just got back from the track and cleared the quad jump like 8 times.... 21 feet to be exact... the last jump my right front tire NAILED the last jump and my shock shaft fell out of the plastic... that dam ankerman is still straight as an arrow...

it seems to be happening to most of us though... so yes... get the aftermarket ankerman then...

:cool:

[cpittmx]

i was reading about the green slime....never used it though. I should order up some and try it over the winter when i rebuilding stuff. where is everyone on here from? any fellow ohioans?

[Hyper_Ike]

I live in PA, and race in ohio. Went to crcrc 2 weeks ago, and going again this week.

[OldskoolGT]

cpittmx,

I use Bel-Ray grease from a motorcycle shop for most of my RC grease needs. Its very thick and I have heard that some pros use it too.


Hung K.,

The Associated diff oil is for on-road cars. Its too thick for buggies. I suggest you buy some #1000, 3000, 5000, and 7000. Mugen and Kyosho sell t diff oils in those #s.

[Digimortal]

I was thinking of purchasing me one of those little work stands for my buggy. Do these things really make it alot easier to work on your car or are they just for looks. The reason I'm posting this on the mbx5 forum is because that is what I will be using it for and I figured that somebody here who owns an mbx5 might have one that they can suggest. Thanks in advance.

[the rock]

dig

I just ordered 4 of them... 2 for me and 2 for my bro. My LHS told me they use them personally. Plus they can make your car look like a nice fixture around the house.

hung

Definetly get the different diff oils oldshool mentioned, also make sure you get a temp guage and a fail safe... these buggys eat up the battery lifes and the last thing you want is for your pride and joy doing 50mph on its own.

[nad138]

O.GT, I might be up there in Dallas this coming weekend for the Turkey Leg race. Will you be racing there ? Let me know what your ride looks like so I can pass by to say hi.

[Digimortal]

Hey Rock I'm curious what brand car stands did you order? I'm thinking of getting the one that OFNA makes because it looks pretty decent and it's not expensive at all. Just curious.

[hung_kuen]

Oldschool and rock - Rookie mistake at once:D

Temp gun and failsafe i allready got so now i only need a decent mill.

I dont know what kind off track i`ll be racing cause it aint built yet.
But i guess it wont be to big,a low end engine will be the best i think.

what engines do you guys use?

thanks fore the suport:D

[the rock]

digi

not exactly sure what model it is.... im trusting my hobby dude to get me the good one. but I do know the stand turns 360 degrees and it has a little spot or table to put things on... and they are only $14.

kuen

im running an RB WS7II... I love this motor. I have a little over three gallons to it and its still as strong as the first gallon. It has NEVER stalled on me... it just keeps on ticking, I normally run about 3 gas tanks in one run. Low end is extremely hard hitting, mid and top end its just gone. Top end powerband feels like it has no end...

I also have a Rossi Black Magic, Picco 01-BP, and a Ofna .26 Force. The RB is my favorite from these motors.

The only down fall is getting this motor started for the first time. Tremendous compression. I literally had to put a hair dryer to the head to expand the chamber so the piston could move easier. But now that its broken in, it starts nicely.... not quite as easy as the Picco, but it starts.

[OldskoolGT]

nad138,

I will definitely be at the TLC. Those turkey legs are very tasty!

I'll probably be driving my K2 which has a beautiful and distinctive orange paint job. I'll also be wearing a Team JCG shirt with "LIU-CIFER" printed on the back.


Eric

[the rock]

gents:

I just spoke to Alki from racing hardcore and he is going to see what he can design in titanium for a front bumper so the front plate problem is eliminated.

he says its quite hard to have such tight angles while working with titanium, but he'll think of something, always keeping in mind to keep the same geomerty as possible as it was originally designed. Maybe he will also incorperate a protection lip on the titanium chassi. He will study it on his own mbx5 tonight.

in about 1 1/2 weeks he will have all kinds of titanium parts ready and listed on the website.

[hung_kuen]

Think i`ll go fore the rb ws711 sounds like the engine i need,will it fit directly in to my x5?

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by hung_kuen
Think i`ll go fore the rb ws711 sounds like the engine i need,will it fit directly in to my x5?

Hung, yes, it will work fine, I know b/c I have the same motor in my X5. Just use the motor mounts that come with the kit.

[hung_kuen]

Thats great:D then my choise is done,thanks

There was a guy over att another forum talking about that his starter box didnt fit with his x5 and he had to buy a mugen box.

Does anyone else have this problem?

[schnitzer]

Hi guys,

is the cover that came with the kit from proline? if so, is it able to fit MBX4XR or kanai? Thanks in advance

[the rock]

i use the ofna true start - universal starter box... its blue...

it works great... it also starts my mutant tmaxx

kuen

rb fits like a glove

[speedydave]

Hung, I use the blue Ofna box with the single, high-torque motor, and I don't have any problems. Just make sure the wheel is centered with the hole, and it'll be fine.

schnitzer, the body that comes with the MBX5 is made by Mugen. I don't know if the body for the MBX5 will fit the MBX4 or the Kanai, but I do know that Pro-Line makes Crowd Pleazer bodies for both of those buggies.

[OldskoolGT]

The MBX4 bodies fit on the X5, so I think the X5 bodies pro will fit on the MBX4. The X5 bodies are just slightly too narrow to fit on the Kyosho well.

All the Ofna 1/8 scale boxes I have seen work fine for the X5 (I use one too).

[winning edge designs]

The new X5 body is alot sleeker, imo, then the X4 is. The Proline bodies are about $23 and the Mugen X5 body is $35 with no window masks or decals...!WOW! :(............I'd guess the Mugen body costs about half as much to manufacture as the Proline as well?.........Jim

[schnitzer]

Thanks speedy

[hung_kuen]

Then ill be fine with the box i have:D

I realy love x5`s slim body, it looks great.

I`m glad i used international air or i would be waiting forever,i am counting days until my x5 arrives

[cpittmx]

I was wondering why they only use the aluminum lower arm supports on the front side of the diff...why not have both of the supports be aluminum?

[winning edge designs]

cpittmx, there are a few reasons why, i'll explain. The main reason is cost, since each aluminum piece is machined and much more expensive then molded parts per piece. The second is it isn't really needed, since the suspension is only really going to take a bad hit coming in the direction of travel, not from behind...usually. Lastly, weight, every aluminum part they add adds heft, weight, bulk, fat and all the other jenny craig no no's, :)...................Jim

[cpittmx]

i guess that makes sense although i have noticed a guy around here that races for kyosho and the one on the back of his buggy is aluminum and really thick.

[not.enough.toys]

People are having problems with starterboxes because the flywheel is smaller than the 4's flywheel. I have the gray Ofna box and had a hard time hitting the flywheel, so I machined the engine mounts. Now my engine sits even lower than before and I have no probs starting it.

[the rock]

my ofna blue box hits perfectly

[speedydave]

If you have problems getting the box to hit the flywheel, just bevel the hole for the starter box with a Dremel, and it should be fine.

[hezageek]

Hi everyone, I just went from a Kanai II to a new MBX-5. I was pretty good at adjusting the Kanai but it seems that a lot of ways to adjust the car are different on the MBX-5 and the instructions are not much help. Here are my ?'s: How do you adjust the front kick-up? In a Chad Bradley setup guide they mention three adjustments for the front kick-up? Same basic ? with the rear. I'm sure I'll have more ? soon so enough. Thanks.

[hezageek]

I think I found a partial answer. Is the kick-up adjusted using parts E0111A-D? Also what does using part E0106A-B offer over using part C-D? Thanks.

[the rock]

i will answer tomorrow feza... im a little drunk

;)

[winning edge designs]

As far as starter boxes go, i'm using the tan Ofna box with no troubles. These boxes are all very adjustable, things like button/switch engagement hieght, motor/wheel placement, etc. You can even shim the starters motor assembly upward if needed with washers.

I would be careful about lowering the engine any more, since a bottomed flywheel results in a stalled engine way too easy during a race! Of course this problem won't show up until a big race, or a track with decent size jumps!

hezageek, you want to adjust the "Castor" or the actual "kickup"? The kickup is biult into the chassis plate and if changed it would take some adjustment/modification on the upper brace, trans case, etc. Is this what you wanted and for what reason?......Jim

[FlyinRazorback]

hezageek,
Parts E0105 A-C are used to adjust the front kick up. I think the X5 has 8 degrees kick-up built in, so if you use E0105A it would give you 7 degrees, part E0105B would give you 6 degrees, and E0105C would give you 5 degrees front kick-up.

Parts E0105D-F are used to set your rear toe-in.

[Techspert]

I just completed my MBX-5 with a brand new WS7II engine. The problem is I CAN'T START the THING!!!

I have an OFNA starter box for 1/8th with the attached glow plug unit and it seems as if the OFNA rubber starter wheel wants to only hit the chassis and not the flywheel (leaving black rubber debris all over the place). The car's flywheel is very tight and I need help. I tried mounting a clear plastic chassic plate which serves as a guide for different starter boxes I guess but that did not work.


Any ideas? :confused:

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

take out the glow plug and put it on the starter box, preferable without the fuel line hooked up cause it will be spraying everywhere, and see if it turns over, if it does repeated doing that should loosen it up some right? and i think i read somewhere in this mbx4 or mbx5 thread that someone else had the same problem wtih a ws7

[the rock]

i also have the ws7II....

had the same problem... this motor has TONS of compression... I couldnt turn the motor over with pliers when new.

Take the glow plug out.... make sure you lube the piston and crank with after run oil, three in one oil, or some nitro gas. Heat up the head with a hair dryer.... this will expand the cylinder allowing the piston to turn.... leave the hair dryer on the head for enough time to REALLY heat it up, you can get it to about 180-200 degrees with a hair dryer.

with the glow plug in... about a 1/4 out... just enough to release compression but can start the motor

the single most important factor is to make sure the box wheel hits the fly wheel straight and correctly. As you try to start it, most likely the fly wheel will get stuck... just turn the car over and release the fly wheel with a screw driver. Once its aligned right, mark the rear box plastic peices that align the car on the box, incase they move... you can put them right back in place.

I have almost 4 gallons on the motor... and the first two gallons I had major trouble starting the motor... it was all due to not having the starter box aligned... once i figured it out.... it now starts in a flash....

before you start the motor prime it REALLY good... always... plug the exhaust with you thumb, turn it over with no glow heater.... once you see the fuel enter the carb... count about 3 seconds and really let it prime. You will hear the motor speed up as fuel runs through. Then throw the heater on.... and start it.

When its primed correctly and your heater has juice... you will automatically hear the motor POP.... its a distinctive and nice sound.

I have also learned that the motor does not start if the fly wheel is turning to fast... release some pressure on the spin by slightly lifting the car.... you will hear that the slower spin will ignite the fuel.

be patient... once it starts... run it at idle for an entire tank... second tank idle with some gas... never over 1/4 gas... not on the ground, 3rd tank on the ground not using more than 1/2 gas, 4th tank start using the motor and make adjustments to carb if needed.

You will find that once the motor is tuned... it just keeps on ticking.

Make sure your tires are glued good ;)

enjoy... its a great motor

[Techspert]

IT WoRkS!!! Thanx guys.

Here's what I did:

1. I had to dremel the flywheel opening because it was too small and rubbing the starter wheel. I made the opening about 2mm bigger on each side.
2. I loosened up the flywheel with pliers to remove the vapor lock state.
3. I removed the glowplug and sprayed WD-40 and bumped it on the starter...WHAP....ruurrrrrr !!!!!
4. I did the bump and spray about 5 times with WD-40 spewing up in the air each time.
5. I then put the glowplug back, broke the vapor lock and bumped started again...Now it's working.
6. I am following the proper break in procedures like you guys listed and it's running like a champ.

What are the normal running settings on the engine for the high-end needle and the secondary needle?

[Techspert]

Okay,

I'm trying to come up with a list of spares for my buggy. I will be racing for the first time this Saturday. What will be necessary as far as must-have spares for the MBX-5? Also, what, if any, advantages can be had from Ergal-type shock towers? They look as if they weigh more than the stock shock towers.

[winning edge designs]

Techspert, in all honesty, i'm running my car for three races now with only a spare right front hub carrier and a spare right front upper arm.....I have only broken a steering ballstud due to overtightening it in the pits.

I did install the Ratzas shock towers and steering rack before it's first race though, but not sure if that helped with my good results? w's and ratzas dot com I think?........:), Jim

[the rock]

tech

I have all kinds of spare parts... but only because I live so far away... in Cozumel Cancun.... cant be any further south in Mex :(

I have about 4 gallons on the buggy.... and about 20 races.... the only parts Ive bent or broken is the stock bottom front aluminum bracket... in front of the hinge pins, and the small plastic pieces that the hinge pins go into, they wear out. Oh also ive gone through about 3 of the plastic pieces that twist on the bottom of the shock shaft

If your running the stock front and rear aluminum brackets put some spacers in to keep them from falling out of position.

www.racinghardcore.com will have a lot of titanium parts soon.

[speedydave]

Get an aftermarket steering link(ackerman plate), and carry extra shock ends(the part that screws onto the shock shaft and connects to the arm) and shock shafts, unless your shop carries them. It also might help to have some spare CVD joints/pins, in case you have one come apart on you. All I've ever broken on both of my buggies is 3 shock shafts(none on the MBX5, only on the MBX4, and only one of them was a Big Bore shaft), and I've had a couple CVD joints come apart(setscrew backed out..damn loctite didn't work), but I've noticed that the rear shock ends on my MBX5 are starting to oval out, so you may want spares of those. Other than that, have some of the normal stuff(spare fuel tubing, glow plugs, etc). BTW, Ratzas' site is ratzas.net, not ratzas.com.

The towers are mainly for looks and for strength, and for some towers(with two sets of holes), for added adjustability.

[the rock]

http://www.mugenseiki.com/2003jmrcaoff-e.htm

:cool:

[Techspert]

I bet winning more and more championships is a sign of things to come for the Mugen boyz. I'm sure the factory is focusing their efforts more on this because they know it will ultimately mean more sales for the great MBX-5 if they have a World Championships title attached to it.

[OldskoolGT]

Regarding spare parts,

I would not waste money on the Mugen shock ends, they are made from a cheap plastic that does not hold up. Either get Racer's Edge aluminum ends, or use Kyosho parts. I'd also suggest having 2 of the front hinge pin holders in your spare parts box too because the part is so easily broken.



That Japanese title doensn't mean much IMHO since they didn't get to run the main.

[the rock]

yeah I guess when you beat Yuichi Kanai, it doesnt mean much does it...

:D

[IBEXrax]

The last outdoor race I ran with my X5 I had a few problems. One annoying thing occurred halfway through the 30 min A-main when my buggy started pulling to the right. This symptom happened before when I threw a drive pin out of the CVD and the pin started dragging on the A-arm. Instead of gouging out a trough in the A-arm, I pulled my X5 into the pit and then dropped down off the drivers stand to survey the damage. I found with some surprise that all the pins were still in place. So I went back out on the track and finished a respectable fourth place in the season finale.

Latter while blowing my buggy clean, I noticed a large amount of dirt packed inside the wheel rims. I vowed to install rim scrapers on my X5.

The trailing edge of the MBX5 hub carriers have two mounting holes for installing rim scrappers. But I have yet to see any detailed information on what goes there.
Is anyone using rim scrapers? And what are the dimensions?

___

[the rock]

never heard of rim scrapers..... thats happend to me as well... the packed inside mud....

[cpittmx]

I've seen them on racers buggies in magazines, but I think they are home-made jobs. I have never seen them for sale.

[FlyinRazorback]

I made some scrapers for mine. There aren't any set directions, just get a couple of pieces of scrap lexan and get to trimming.

[winning edge designs]

I know Robin Nelson was making some, he's out of south Carolina. You may be able to contact him thru Richard Saxton. I can't find his contact info around my office.....:(, Jim

[OldskoolGT]

Making wheel scrapers is not rocket science. LOL. As FlyinRazorback said, just use some scrap lexan and trim as necessary.


Anyone have any crazy setups that you would like share? I tried 3/3/5 in my buggy after hearing about it work in Ofnas and Kyoshos. I didn't know what to expect, but I like this setup more than all the previous diff oil combinations I have tried, and it worked on both a loamy track and a grooved track.

[ronvdp]

Hey guys,
can anyone tell me what they do to maintain their aluminum clutch shoes? I get a black residue on the clutchbell and the shoes that is really difficult to remove. Ican sand the shoes with no problem but the inside of the clutchbell is really stuck. Is there any way to keep them from getting this stuff? Also, is there any drylube that works well on the shoe pivots, I noticed one of them being pretty sticky when I took it apart to clean it.

Thanks for any help!

[winning edge designs]

Ya, but Nelsons are carbon fiber, :)!..just wish I could find his contact info, LOL.

ron, I use medium grit sandpaper, about 240 or so, the aluminum and any residual will sand off before the clutch bell material will........Jim

[auto2]

speaking of aluminum shoes, If I put them on my mbx4 which springs do you recommend? .9---1.0---1.1 MM?
are the aluminum shoes heaver than the black carbon ones?

[cpittmx]

I saw a pic of the carbon fiber rim scrapers.... i forget whose car it was on, but it looked pretty sweet. The edge facing the rim looked wedge shaped so it had a nice edge. my luck though i'd pick up a small rock that would wedge in the scraper somehow! :rolleyes:

[speedydave]

Auto, what engine are you going to be using, on what kind of track?

[auto2]

os vz on this track here
http://www.barnstormersrc.com/movies/

[hung_kuen]

Rock- what pipe do you use with your rb ws711 ?

[hung_kuen]

Sorry fore dobbel posting but i need some help picking out the right equipment.

Can i use this starter box http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD9&P=7 if i cant ,witch should i use?

I need a a couple off good reciver packs as well and a good charger. (nihms are better then nicads right)

I shop at tower so it would be nice if they had all the items.

If someone can help me with this i would be wery greatful.

[OldskoolGT]

I'd stick to 1.0 springs when using aluminum shoes. 1.1s put a lot of wear on aluminum shoes, and that OS engine has plenty of torque.

[NoleC5]

Oldskool.....I'm currently running 3,000/3,000/1,000 with 4 o rings in the front diff and 2 o rings in the center diff. I read about this setup on sgrid about a month or so ago. C. Bradley said that a lot of the overseas drivers were using this setup, so I tried it. I have really liked it so far. Have raced at the sugarbowl in Sugar Hill GA and in Charlotte at Lances track at the nitrofest.

[the rock]

kuen

RB 9886.

I had the SHI#$@$# day yesturday. I started my car, and I noticed I had no throttle control, so I stopped it, took off my body, re-attached the throttle arm.... I was desperate to get my car on the track as the other guys were waiting for me.... well i put my body back on.... cranked her on..... ripped around the track for a full tank, filled the tank without stopping the car.... I was about 1/2 threw that tank and the motor stalled. I said WHAT... Its NEVER stalled on me.... I really thought it was no big deal... motors gotta stall on you at least once....

Well I crashed pretty hard a few times, so when I take off the body I noticed the filter was off..... oohhh nnnooooo... we were out on the track looking for the filter for like 10 minutes, finally gave up... went back to the pit, and wala... my damb air filter is on top of my tool box.... yes I took it off when I attached my throttle arm.

The bad part is that as far down as I can see down the carb its full of dust.... and the motor stalled. Im gonna take it apart and run the entire motor through alcohol.

What do you guys think? A I doomed to buy a new motor?


:mad:

[the rock]

kuen

this is the box I use... it works perfect

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

[the rock]

oh nelly...

I just took my carb out and when I turned the crank... in the grooved part... its PACKED with dirt.... should I not even bother cleaning it?

I just called my LHS and I might get the JP P5...

Comments please???

[nad138]

Rock, the ugly answer is YES. Or you can try rebuilding it. It's usually the P/S, the rear bearings and the crank.

H.K., I also use the Ofna 10250 (chrome top) on mine. The one you posted will also work. The main difference is that the 10250 has a high torque motor while the 10249 (the one you inquired about) uses 2 550 motors but has everything included with it (battery, front panel, glow ignitor).

Auto2, I agree with O.GT. Stick with the 1.0 springs with the stock aluminum shoes. Can't go wrong with it. Though I've been hearing from the pros that the VZ-B usually don't last that long (1-2 gallons) before you need to have the P/S replaced or squeezed. I too wanted to get this one but held off.

Hey Danny, good to hear that the o-rings are working for you. I only have mine in the center now.

O.GT, how'd the Turkey Leg race go? Heard it was fun. Wasn't able to make it as I was down with the flu. I might try and make it on the Wellington race there next weekend. It's for a good cause.

[ronvdp]

WED-Thanks for the info

The Rock-I had a filter come off while running and it stalled the engine also. I took it completely apart and rinsed everything with denatured alcohol-particularly the bearings. Luckily there were no visible scratches on the p/s and when I put it back together it ran as good as ever! Point being, you may be lucky and get off with a warning. Good Luck.

[the rock]

thanks ron.....

im tearing her apart right now....

;)

[the rock]

ron

any advice on taking out the sleeve... it seems to be in their pretyy good...

thanks

[the rock]

ok i tried a hair dyer.. didnt work... im about to put it in the over at 250...

how did you take yours out?

[ronvdp]

I used a thick zip tie placed into one of the ports and turned the crank with the flywheel on it to force it out with the piston. It took a little elbow grease but it came out.

[the rock]

ok...

oven trick worked :) ... slid out nicely...

thanks ron

[auto2]

Originally posted by nad138

Auto2, I agree with O.GT. Stick with the 1.0 springs with the stock aluminum shoes. Can't go wrong with it. Though I've been hearing from the pros that the VZ-B usually don't last that long (1-2 gallons) before you need to have the P/S replaced or squeezed. I too wanted to get this one but held off.

.
yes I heard the piston is softer than the RZ.
Well for 200dollars delivered to my door I couldn't say no.
I've heatcycled it 13 times and ran 2 tanks after that .1 1/2 quarts of fuel.
I still have to heat it up to at least 150 so it will crank.
It's really tight. And yes it has torque!

I'm surprised they went from 6 bolts to only 4 to hold the head on.

[winning edge designs]

Isn't it amazing what these little engines will handle as far as abuse. And to think I see some racers cleaning thier air filter and re-oiling it Every run! haha.

As far as aluminum vs. black clutch shoes, i've heard the aluminum is lighter? I've never checked myself and always assumed they were heavier....The theory i've heard is the composite shoes are more dense.............Be interesting to know for sure.

For springs, imo, I try and always use 1.0 springs and tune the engine if possible. In extreme loose i'll use .9 and extreme hooked up 1.1 with any material shoe. All need attention for glazing and wear before the A main, no matter what combination anyway, :)......Jim

[Techspert]

Guys,

I have an MBX-5 with an RB WS7II which was just broken in and I'm looking to get a new pipe and manifold but can't decide.

Here are the choices:

RB86 w/ either long or short manifold
RB63 w/ either long or short manifold
Ofna 053 (I think)
Ofna 063 (I think)
Shiny 063 aftermarket clone

My question is what's the big difference in the Ofna and aftermarket pipes in comparison to the RB pipe besides the $50 difference in price?

[the rock]

not sure on the difference on that pipe tech... but im using the RB9886 and I have GREAT all around power. Usually if the pipe is longer and thinner, it will give you much more torque.

winning

I finished cleaning my entire motor... took it completely apart... no visiual scratches, and feels smooth as new. Im VERY confident it's gonna fire right up... let you know tomorrow.

[OldskoolGT]

nad138

The TLC race was cold and windy. After a few minutes on the drivers stand, my hands were numb. Other than that and some engine problems, the race was fun. The turkey legs were very tasty too.


Techspert,

The OFNA pipes are very good for the money, and hold up a little bit better in my experience. If you want to spend $100+ on a pipe, get an OS T-2050. It works like a 9886 pipe, and it will outlast numerous RB and OFNA pipes. I have had a T-2050 pipe for almost 1 year now, and it has no dents in it.

[needinpower]

Hey Rock,,
What setup are you using???