Mugen MBX5 Buggy Forum v1.0

[savagepicco26]

Anybody running the mugen 2,000wt or 4,000wt diff oil in their diff's now? I just bought some and Have to wait till mid January to get a race in with it. I've changed my oil's to 4/5/2 but have an extra set of diff's all ready to put in the car. I had been running 5/7/1. I'm looking for more off power steering entering the corners.i run 5/7/3 and have more steering than i know what to do with. what servo you running for steering?

[VMach]

i run 5/7/3 and have more steering than i know what to do with. what servo you running for steering?359 with a 357 on the throttle. I just like a lot of turn in. I tend to brake before the corner and roll thru it. I like to be able to turn under neither the other drives as they try to power around the corners. I know it's a little slower but more consistent to repeat everytime.


I race on a tight track. 8-10' lanes. Most corners are in the 9-10' range with the straights narrowing down to 8-9'. A little bumpy and hard packed.

[winning edge designs]

Man, with a J Concepts Illuzion body that MBX5 would look killer!..........;), Jim,www.jconcepts.net

[foampervert]

has anyone tried using graphite shock towers.
i know graphite is supposed to be brittle but if its thick enough, wouldn't it also be extremely strong?

[savagepicco26]

i run the 5mm mugen towers. they're about the best there is. out of the "hop-up" towers made of alluminum, i'm pretty sure they're the lightest. i've seen people break carbon fiber towers. graphite will be even weaker.

[Woodalerrt55]

Hey has anybody expirienced binding in the diff cases? I don't know if i tightened the cases together too much or if I was suppose to shim differently. The directions don't go into detail about shimming.

[savagepicco26]

Hey has anybody expirienced binding in the diff cases? I don't know if i tightened the cases together too much or if I was suppose to shim differently. The directions don't go into detail about shimming.
you shouldn't need any shims initially. you use them when the diffs get sloppy. if they're binding, take the shims out. case screws should be tight, so that's not the problem.

[SN VipeR]

has anyone tried using graphite shock towers.

I use carbon fiber towers on my Hyper 7, they're extremely strong and light. More details about them can be found on my page (http://www.snviper.ch.vu).

[KansasCajun]

I have a questions about the MBX-5 Prospec.

I just bought a MBX-5 Prospec on ebay for a killer price and I'm wondering is there really anything I need to do to this car besides the normal fluids etc?

What are a few spare parts I should keep in my pit box for repairs at the track?

I'm planning on running a OFNA Hyper 7 Race .21 with a Jammin JP-2 Pipe. I'm not looking for a screamer, but a good club race package.

[Blacktiger]

Well, I race against several X5's at my local track and most of them don't seem to break much at all. I may be picking up one for myself soon. One thing I have noticed is the stock cluch bell bearings seem to wear out real fast. Almost all of the x5's I have seen have gone through the stock ones pretty fast. the Prospec seems to be a very tough buggy and a awesome handling car as well. Can't beat that. I would say see what you end up breaking (if anything) and go from there.

[savagepicco26]

I have a questions about the MBX-5 Prospec.

I just bought a MBX-5 Prospec on ebay for a killer price and I'm wondering is there really anything I need to do to this car besides the normal fluids etc?

What are a few spare parts I should keep in my pit box for repairs at the track?

I'm planning on running a OFNA Hyper 7 Race .21 with a Jammin JP-2 Pipe. I'm not looking for a screamer, but a good club race package.
i have not broken a single part on my X5 this whole year. i've replace suspension parts after they've gotten a little loose, but that was just to tighten the car back up. i've take some really hard licks and not broken anything. i drove a friends new XB8 and landed a little crooked off a jump and it broke his upper arm on the front. that wouldn't have happened on the X5. the thing's ready to go right out of the box. especially the pro-spec, there's not really anything to upgrade to. i run 5/7/3 for diffs, but 5/7/2 is another common one. i'm not sure if they fixed the o-ring problem on the diffs with the pro-spec, but if the diffs leak, get the aftermarket o-rings like i did: http://www.mbx5parts.com/productlist.asp?cat=2 it fixed the problem for me. for spare parts, the only thing i really keep are servos. after all the racing that i've done, servos have been my only problem. i hope to have fixed that now that i'm running the airtronics 94358 servos. $$$$, but worth it! an extra clutch setup is good to have on hand. bearing are good to have. i change the clutch bell bearings before each main. they wear out quick and they're only $1 each. i also started keeping and extra RX battery pack since i had one die on me in practice and then i couldn't run the main.

[low10s]

waz up, in the next week i am going to get a new buggy. i really like the x5 but after reading almost all of this thread in the last few days i am not so sure. i mean diffs leaking, haveing to upgrade all these parts. i can get it for $469 but after the upgrades i will be in mp777 territory. i know the prospec has all the upgrades but for the money it is not superior to the 777. need help. thanks

[VMach]

waz up, in the next week i am going to get a new buggy. i really like the x5 but after reading almost all of this thread in the last few days i am not so sure. i mean diffs leaking, haveing to upgrade all these parts. i can get it for $469 but after the upgrades i will be in mp777 territory. i know the prospec has all the upgrades but for the money it is not superior to the 777. need help. thanks
The MP777 has a "prospec" version of it too, the "mp777 special 1". I myself would go with the prospec and get the brass bushing from the website posted above and the diff seal kit too. I can't really think of anything else you would need except the clutch bearing that wear out and the diff oils and tires to suit your track conditions. The MBX-5 is rock solid and the prospec parts just made it better.

[PitStops]

I just Got myself an MBX5, setting it up with JR 8550 steering servo, 650 throttle, I have added the front and rear braces and he rear upper brace mount, and radio tray mounts. I am also running the New OS VZ-B V-Spec, with an Ofna 063. The diffs are filled with the stock 1000 in front and rear and 3k in the center. Does anyone have any set up suggestions or tuning tips to help with gett her set up right out of the gate. I will be racing a a relatively short track most of the time, at least for the first year till we get our new 1/8 track.

Thanks,
Bryan

[PitStops]

Low10s,

I did alot of research about the same issue, 777, X5 or XB8, in the end the X5 is the best way I can see to go, I have a freind who runs a 777 sp1, and everything he breaks, is done trying to Catch his partners X5. The XB8 is hard to find here still and even harder to get parts for. The X5 though it has some issues, as all cars do even the 777 and xb8. most of the people I have talked to that have run the 777 say they wish they had gone with the x5. just what I have been told and or seen. made my choice easy. I have also been told that it is a more bullet proof vehicle, not that things won't break but it takes much more to break it.

Bryan

[winning edge designs]

I had great results with my MBX5, but I also have friends who love thier 777's, no breakage issues i'm aware of with either. I just picked up a Jammin' X1 to try out, if for nothing then to just be different(until it takes off anyhow?).

The main factor for me between the cars is the 777 is just too much money for what you get. The "special 1" for $650ish has phillips head screws, ball and stud style chassis braces, thin shock towers, no carbon(it's just cool), but it has a Kyosho Rep, which never hurts in 1/8th scale.

The MBX5 Prospec just won the worlds, and is very well equipped, but at around $700 it should be.

Alot of choices in 1/8th buggy right now, all good ones.............2005 should be interesting, Jim

[low10s]

true, i will get the mbx5 not prospec. i friend of mine from Florida has changed nothing on his, the only thing he did was get the hardened hinge pins with nuts. stock shock towers and everything. he is a fast driver and the only thing he said he has broken is a suspension arm. when i talked to him i did not go in depth about the diffs. how bad do they leak? my main thing is off power steering, see i will be upgrading from a Hot boddies Pro 2, even though that was my first buggy, i raced 1/10 for a while. anyway i think the buggy might be holding my potential down. not to mention the cool factor of having a Mugen.

[low10s]

what type of screws does the mugen have?

[low10s]

oh and what are the brass bushing for, where do they go. this is one area i am not familiar with

[winning edge designs]

Low10's, the Mugen has the good hex style screws. (and so does the X1 I just picked up)

The brass bushings are used by some to replace the plastic inserts for the hinge pins. I used the plastic, but i've heard the brass lasts longer......................Jim

[low10s]

thanks Jim, for starters i am going to get the bushings, front and rear chassis brace and ankerman linkage, also the hardened hing pins(kparts). that should prove tough enough. also could you please tell me what comes with the kit, like extras or tires, thanks again, also are these good things to hop up first.

[PitStops]

the standard kit come with a Clear body, dish wheels and pro line crime fighters.

[winning edge designs]

Low10's, ya, those are a good start. I used Ratzas shock towers and steering or ackerman rack(centerlink on a 1:1 car), as well as thier braces. I used the stock hinge pins though, but alot of people replace them jsut to dump the E clips....Jim

[low10s]

what are the motor mounts like, are they finned. cause i was looking at the optional one piece. thanks. what is the web for Ratzas. thanks again. also what are the instructions like, i haven't built one from scratch.

[winning edge designs]

Low10's, they are at ratzas.net...I think they may be temporarily out of stock on some of the MBX5 stuff right now. Check it out.

Thier manuals are top notch, very clear and packages are for each step...unlike Tamiya, etc who make you open everything before you can flip to page 2.........:0, Jim

[low10s]

thanks for all the info, but i do have another question. do all aftermarket wheels fit? i read somewhere the back wheels had to be modded to fit the mugens. also if i can sell my Hot boddies Pro 2 in time i may just get the pro spec, yum yum

[winning edge designs]

I've not had a problem, some wheels wil rub slightly, but I found that a little dremel work on the outer ball ends(plastic) works well.....I've used Proline, Ofna and Treadz wheels, althoug the Proline are a bit expensive at $12 for two, the Ofna wheels are $19 for 6............Jim

[VMach]

low10s, by the sound of it you're going to get many of the hop ups already in the prospec kit. Might as well just get the prospec and be done with it. You'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run.

[PitStops]

I have a question about diff fluids, I have not played much with diff fluids, how do the different weight oils affect the action of each diff.

When I built the diffs for mine, I miss read a part of the instructions and filled the front diff with 1000 wt instead of 3000 wt. also what is the effect of fill the diff all the way up as opposed to only half way?

Thanks,
Bryan

[low10s]

no i am going to make just a few upgrades, i dont want to spend $700 for a prospec at the moment. on the subject, are the cvd boots worth the money? wasnt sure if they interupted the movement of the cvd or not. thanks

[VMach]

I'm not sure about the CVD boots but I did just order a set to see how well they work.

[savagepicco26]

i know the prospec has all the upgrades but for the money it is not superior to the 777. need help. thanksthat's a matter of opinion. after talking to several pro drivers that have driven both, they prefer the X5. the ONLY think the 777 is better in is the rough. the X5 jumps better, turns better, etc.

[savagepicco26]

no i am going to make just a few upgrades, i dont want to spend $700 for a prospec at the moment. on the subject, are the cvd boots worth the money? wasnt sure if they interupted the movement of the cvd or not. thanks
yeah, they're worth it. i've got a set from here: http://www.mbx5parts.com/productdetail.asp?id=c1007 i just ran them at the track today. they don't impede performance at all. after a full day of racing, the CVD's were clean and fully greased like new under the boots. VERY WORTH IT!

[savagepicco26]

I have a question about diff fluids, I have not played much with diff fluids, how do the different weight oils affect the action of each diff.

When I built the diffs for mine, I miss read a part of the instructions and filled the front diff with 1000 wt instead of 3000 wt. also what is the effect of fill the diff all the way up as opposed to only half way?

Thanks,
Bryan
the higher the number, the stiffer the diff is. so a 1000 wt will allow one wheel to spin freely while the other just sits there (if you're stuck somewhere) a 7000 is thicker so it will transfer power to both wheels a little better (if you're stuck, you'll probably still have one that spins). 1000 in the front is really low. i run 5f/7c/3r. 5/7/2 is another popular one. also, you want the diff filled all the way. if it's not, then the oil won't really work the way it should. it needs to be full to get the full effect.

[savagepicco26]

thanks for all the info, but i do have another question. do all aftermarket wheels fit? i read somewhere the back wheels had to be modded to fit the mugens. also if i can sell my Hot boddies Pro 2 in time i may just get the pro spec, yum yum
never had a problem with prolines.

[low10s]

thanks for the imput, i am really looking forward to getting this buggy. Know anyone who wants a Hot Bodies Pro 2, i got one for sale.

[savagepicco26]

thanks Jim, for starters i am going to get the bushings, front and rear chassis brace and ankerman linkage, also the hardened hing pins(kparts).
i run the Hardcore Racing ackerman. it's the lightest one out there. i also run the brass bushings from here:
http://www.mbx5parts.com/productdetail.asp?id=c1015
they're worth the money. i also have the chassis braces. they too are worth it.

[low10s]

ithink i am going to get the Mugen ackerman, and braces dont want to much bling bling.LOL

[PitStops]

Savagepicco,

Thanks, for the help. Much appriciated!
Bryan

[savagepicco26]

no problem. glad to help.

[low10s]

good news(for me) my buggy will be here fri. along with the above parts mentioned. hopefully i can get it built on the weekend.

[KansasCajun]

no i am going to make just a few upgrades, i dont want to spend $700 for a prospec at the moment.

Then just do what I did. I picked one off of ebay.. $415. :)

And. it was built already.. I'll see what it looks like when it comes in this week.

[low10s]

wanted to build myself, do not like getting used buggys. sometimes i just like new.

[PitStops]

The buggy is a very easy build, one of the easiest yet. The shock are a breeze to build. Mine is built and sitting here looking way to pretty waiting for the engine. I orininally was going with a Omega Picco X7R, but when the owner of the LHS offered to sell me the new OS vspec for the same price I ahd to bite, now I just have to wait.

[SN VipeR]

also, you want the diff filled all the way. if it's not, then the oil won't really work the way it should. it needs to be full to get the full effect.

Both the Mugen manual and www.twf8.ws say to only fill up the diff to the crosspins. Bearing in mind that the other sun gear goes in as you close the diff and also uses up a lot of space, I'd say the diff is 80% filled like that.
As long as there's oil on all of the gears the amount of diff lock will be the same no matter how much the diff is filled I think. As long as it's in between the gears it doesn't matter how much is around the gears.
I've heard of diffs leaking excessively or even being destroyed when they were filled up fully. I myself did this once with a middle diff on my hyper and the oil even pushed the screws out. :eek:

Then just do what I did. I picked one off of ebay.. $415. :)

That was you? I watched that auction (well, I think it was that one) because a friend of mine wanted to get it too, which he almost did. If the car's alright that sure was a bargain!

[low10s]

do some kits come with white wheels/wing, and others yellow. i have seen some in the Mugen ad with the mbx5 with a yellow wing and wheels.

[PitStops]

they all come with white wing and wheels.

[low10s]

it should be here tomorrow, i am hopeing to have it built by the weekend

[KansasCajun]

That was you? I watched that auction (well, I think it was that one) because a friend of mine wanted to get it too, which he almost did. If the car's alright that sure was a bargain!

This one was mine: Ebay Auction I won (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5945534394&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT)

By the way, the car is great. It has some sypical Florida red clay, but nothing that a good cleaning won't clear out. Its got an odd-ball set of Kyosho wheels/tires, but they are only going to get used during break-in, I've got a few sets of Pro-Lines ready to bolt on to this guy once we get started racing in April.

I bought a OFNA Hyper .21 Race, a OS RG motor (that I'm stealing the 20E carb from), an associated Starter box, and my servos are an Airtronics 94758 for steering and a Futaba S9405 for Throttle/brake. It should be a decent set up, at least enough for my first time 1/8 scale buggy.

Who knows, I might do a horrible thing and convert this guy to a truggy using a set of wheels/tires from the OFNA Blazer and a set of OFNA hex extenders. :)

[SN VipeR]

You don't need any extenders for Blazer rims. I got a set of Blazer rims/tyres and they fit my Hyper perfectly. Not sure about the Mugen though, I'll check and get back to you.

But why not go all-out and get Pirate wheels and maxx-sized tyres? :eek:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/horrible.jpg

Don't worry. They're not my tyres and I'd never run my MBX5 like that. :o

[winning edge designs]

Man, don't they look all sweet when they are shiny!....LOL.......Jim

[low10s]

mine is 90% built. all i have left is the shocks, and install the infamous RB WS7 II. the kit was nice and the directions were good, i am really impressed with the parts fit and quality, you can really tell the difference between the top buggys and the middle of the road. where is mbx5.com located/ i ordered my parts last tues, i did not see a phone no. on the websight to ask. thanks

[winning edge designs]

In case any MBX5 owners haven't checked out our MBX5 Illuzion yet.......(also fits XB8)....http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/Illuzion_MugenBody01.jpg ....Jim

[low10s]

i seen it and liked it alot. do they come painted,and for how much

[winning edge designs]

Low10's, I sometimes ahve them on hand prepainted, but i'm out of them right now. I have a 3 week wait right now. I can't talk price here, but E mail me at wedjim@cfl.rr.com...............ttyl, Jim, www.jconcepts.net

[PitStops]

Jim when you guy going bust out the TC body?

I have done a couple of the b4 bodies and really like them, I am looking forward to seeing them

[winning edge designs]

Pitstops, we will have our new XXXT MF2 Illuzion released this coming week, as well as our 777 Illuzion right behind it. The sedan and a few other bodies are still in the works. We trying to come up with something that will look good and really make a difference in sedan to avoid the body of the month club, so it's taking quite a bit of R&D.....:)...............ttyl, Jim

[low10s]

the kit went together great, the only prob is the throttle/break linkage is a little low, and it causes the rear brake rod to rub a bit and not work real freely. i dont think i missed anything. does anyone have any ideas before i modify it, thanks

[PitStops]

Yeah, My friend here (he races for JConcepts) has been waiting for the new 777 shell for a while. I am trying to descide if I want to try out the MBX5 Illuzion or not, not sure if I like the raised spots on the sides. I guess I will see if the shop here can get one in for me and I will have to try it out and see if I like it. I need to find something I like as the Factory body doesn't do it for me, and neither does the new Crowd Pleazer 2.0.

[ux226]

Where is the cheapest place online to buy the MBX-5 Prospec these days? I saw it for US$ 699 at Ace. Is that the best price?

I'm in Europe, don't care where in the world the shop is.

Thanks.

[PitStops]

I haven't seen opne for less than 699.00 USD lately. I know here in town they are going for like 800.00 so hundred dollars off is good.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, $700 or so is good, fomr what I hear they are getting harder and harder to find.....If your getting one don't wait too much longer.

Pitstops, Ya, the stock body is expensive and the tiny little bumps that some might mistake for scoops needed a bit of flair. Ours also clear linkages and things better as well.............Jim

[savagepicco26]

Both the Mugen manual and www.twf8.ws say to only fill up the diff to the crosspins. Bearing in mind that the other sun gear goes in as you close the diff and also uses up a lot of space, I'd say the diff is 80% filled like that.
As long as there's oil on all of the gears the amount of diff lock will be the same no matter how much the diff is filled I think. As long as it's in between the gears it doesn't matter how much is around the gears.
I've heard of diffs leaking excessively or even being destroyed when they were filled up fully. I myself did this once with a middle diff on my hyper and the oil even pushed the screws out. :eek:
i have always filled it pretty much to the top without any problems. been running the buggy about a year with the stock diffs. no problems yet. to each his own i guess.

[winning edge designs]

I usually fill my diffs to just above the cross pins, but not all the way....Well, once I did, but I couldn't figure out why they leaked oil from the maintenance screw in the case, for a day or two, then stopped.....Until I noticed the overfill warning in the manual after reading thru it again, LOL.

I would think a partially filled diff would be able to disburse the oil from the spinning gears and allow them to run like you have lighter, or at worst case, no oil in the diff if it was low enough............Kind of like a boat prop only half way in the water?......Jim

[PitStops]

I went to the LHS today, and was told that they can TRY to order an illuzion body for me, but they did not know when it would come in, and that I would have to pay in advance. They did however have a stock body (for like 32.00 I think it was) or they could order me a Proline Crowd Pleazer (the older version) but that they were not stocking the 2.0 because because the one they had took forever to sell as no-one liked the design. I have not been to the other shop here (they are a better shop but I just happened to be next to this one today. I just am not sure if I am going to like the illuizion body or the 2.0, I would really hate to pay for it and then not like it.

anyone have their input as to which is the better choice, my current draw backs are I do not like the bumps on the front of the CP 2.0, and I am not keen on the scoops on the Illuzion body. I am going to have to choose between them, but not sure which I can live with.

[winning edge designs]

I have to mark you down as a no scoop or bump kind of guy, haha....Our 7.5 Illuzion has no scoops and the first thing most racers asked is why did it not have scoops of some sort, so it didn't look so plain, LOL.

Any hobby shop can get in touch with Jason at J concepts thru our site and can order any of our J Concepts products. Most are shipped within a day if in stock at the time of order and we usually have most items in stock. In Most cases our customers who order a body, or bodies on monday, will have them by thursday or friday.

I'm surprised your LHS said no body liked the design of Prolines Crowd Pleazer 2.0, we have heard alot of good comments from people that we've painted dozens and dozens of them for already. I painted 3 for one guy with a 777..........But of course I prefer the J concepts Illuzion line, ;).......Jim

[savagepicco26]

I would think a partially filled diff would be able to disburse the oil from the spinning gears and allow them to run like you have lighter, or at worst case, no oil in the diff if it was low enough............Kind of like a boat prop only half way in the water?......Jim
which is all the more reason to fill them up more.

also, on the bodies. i also don't like the CP 2.0 the front of it looks like an alligator's snout. looks goofy to me. i just stick with the stock mugen bodies. i like them the best.

[PitStops]

The front looks like it had a br**st augmentation

[savagepicco26]

The front looks like it had a br**st augmentation
now that you mention it..... :D

[winning edge designs]

The first thing I noticed when I started running my first MBX5 was that the scoops looked far to tiny for the size of the car and body, imo. Then when I needed a replacement and they were $35 with no window masks, or anything, well, it wasn't hard to realize we needed to come up with something for it.

For a completely filled diff, just leave out the set screw for the case and tighten the ring gear before installing it, while keeping it at the top until you install the screw. This requires squeezing it all together with your palm and fingers until it's all been buttoned up, so it's a little "tricky"..............Jim

[PitStops]

Yeah the scoops on the stock body definately do not go with the body, I think I will try an Illuzion body, and I went to my usual hobby shop today and the guys there said they would sell me a cp2.0 at cost just to see if I liked once it had my color scheme on it and mounted it up. but they are ordering me an illuzion shell as well.

next, Jim have you had the chance to work with the Wasp body from Trinity for the 7.5? if so what did you think of it?

Thanks,
Bryan

[low10s]

ok, i got the cvd boots today, where do they go, i mean there are 2 short and 2 long. the long i am guesing go in the center, the short go front or back or does it matter

[winning edge designs]

Pitstops, Yes, i've painted a few wasp bodies, in fact I just auctioned one off on E bay that was left over inventory.

They seem ok, kind of gadgety, if that's a word. Alot of little scoops, vents, louvers, etc. The window mask didn't want to stay on the windows and the left and right sides are different windows.....Not for me, but alot of guys requested them for a while.......It's nice just to have some different choices and alot of people seem to have completely different tastes..........Jim

[low10s]

never mind guys, two of them were stuck together looking like two long ones. thanks

[PitStops]

I have also heard they are rather thin lexan. would you agree?

Also does the 7.5 Illuzion have scoops on it as well?

[PitStops]

the more I look at that pic of the Illuzion shell, the more I am liking it. I think I am going to order a few for the season. I think the scoops are growing on me and give the body some dimension that the CP 2.0 is missing. Jim... you posted that pic above and it finally sold me on the Illuzion shells. and take me off the no scoops list. lol.

Thanks,
Bryan

[VMach]

I've looked at the illuzion, crowd pleazer and the CP 2.0 side by side and for my money I'd go with the Illuzion. It's just a better fitting nicer looking body. Right now I have the CP and the CP 2.0 too!

[penggoy]

are hardcore racing titanium shocktowers good? or should I just buy mugen, kinghead shoctowers?

[PitStops]

I am a big fan of Hardcore Racing products, but for the buggies I would go with either the mugen or King Headz parts. Though I would consider the Hardcore Chassis as it will take the wear and tear a little better than the stock Aluminum chassis. I did that with my Kyosho buggy and have not worn out this chassis nearly as fast as the stock one.

Just my two pennies.
Bryan

[savagepicco26]

Though I would consider the Hardcore Chassis as it will take the wear and tear a little better than the stock Aluminum chassis.
hardcore doesn't make a chassis for the MBX5 according to their site.

[savagepicco26]

are hardcore racing titanium shocktowers good? or should I just buy mugen, kinghead shoctowers?
i run the 5mm mugen towers. they're great.

[low10s]

what do you charge your receiver packs with. i am wanting to get a new charger and cant make my mind up. thanks

[savagepicco26]

this is what i'm about to buy.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML

[low10s]

i ws looking at the pit bull x3, or pulsar sport

[PitStops]

I use a Reedy Quasar Pro Charger. and I built a 1600 mah receiver pack from aa sized nmih. it works awesome and is a perfect fit in the battery tray on the X5.

Bryan

[PitStops]

hardcore doesn't make a chassis for the MBX5 according to their site.

Well, that sucks, I just figured that since they had one for the k car they would have punched one out for the x5.

Sorry for the miss information

Bryan

[KansasCajun]

You don't need any extenders for Blazer rims. I got a set of Blazer rims/tyres and they fit my Hyper perfectly. Not sure about the Mugen though, I'll check and get back to you.

But why not go all-out and get Pirate wheels and maxx-sized tyres? :eek:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/horrible.jpg

Don't worry. They're not my tyres and I'd never run my MBX5 like that. :o

I'd run it like that :)
So I assume those wheels are the "dominator" style wheels available from OFNA.

The reason I'd run the Blazer rims/wheels is because I wouldn't need to re-gear the buggy at all, the wheels are about the same diameter as 1/8 buggy wheels. With a Monster style wheel, I'd have to re-gear a tad bit and thats where the "conversion" kits use a 50 tooth spur and raise the center diff for clearance.

[winning edge designs]

Pitstops, I think they have thin areas, mostly the sides.

Our 7.5 Illuzion has no scoops or bumps, etc....it's on our site at www.jconcepts.net

.......Thanks, Jim

[low10s]

thinking on trying the werks clutch, any imput would be nice. thanks

[savagepicco26]

I use a Reedy Quasar Pro Charger. and I built a 1600 mah receiver pack from aa sized nmih. it works awesome and is a perfect fit in the battery tray on the X5.

Bryanman, if you're going to use AA batts, i would have gone with some 2200's or 2300's for the extra run times. especially since 45 minute A mains are pretty common around here for racing.

[PitStops]

Yeah, I just saw the new Orion 2300 mah nmih today, I wish I would have seen them two weeks ago. I will have to buy them and run the one I have as a spare pack.

Bryan

[KansasCajun]

Yeah, I just saw the new Orion 2300 mah nmih today, I wish I would have seen them two weeks ago. I will have to buy them and run the one I have as a spare pack.

Bryan

You could build your own... or do what I did.. I just picked up one from Ballistic Batteries 5 AA Hump Pack 2300 (http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=140055&InfoID=200)

A cheaper price from Team Helotes AA Hump Pack 2400 (http://teamhelotes.com/~main/catalog/i43.html)

[PitStops]

I will do something to get the 2300 mAH pack.

[savagepicco26]

a ton of guys around here run the ballistic batts packs. they're great and i hear their customer service is awesome.

[PitStops]

cool I will look into them. Thanks
Bryan

[low10s]

so no one has looked in to li-po bats? i am looking at the 2300's also

[savagepicco26]

so no one has looked in to li-po bats? i am looking at the 2300's also
what's the cost on the one's you're looking at? links?

[low10s]

i meant the 2300's listed on this post at ballistic battery. on another sight they use the li-po batts. www.rcnitrotalk.com. the guy said they will last 5 hours straight. but i have not found them in the states yet as a pack

[winning edge designs]

I use "Fusion" packs, but only the 1200's with no problems dumping them in long mains, they seem to be sufficent, even for 45 minute mains......Maybe more capacity is needed for bashing?...............Jim

[PitStops]

Jim, I look am looking at the 2300 packs for the fact that when we go out for practice days, I want to avoid having to charge my batteries at all during the 8 to 10 hours we seem to end up out at the track, usually with the majority of the time runnign provided the car is running well. I typically have one pack for race days and one for practice. just something I got into with on road and now with off road.

[PitStops]

so no one has looked in to li-po bats? i am looking at the 2300's also

I have looked into them before, and the draw backs out weight the pluses for me.
plus run time for days.

minus takes a special charger...... you can NOT run the packs anywhere close to completely dead or they pretty much self destruct. and from what I understand they require mounds of maintence.

I will stick to nimh.

Bryan

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I like alot of track time to when I can manage to get to the track before practice ends, haha.

I keep two Fusion 1200 packs handy all the time, but I still wouldn't run a couple gallons of fuel for practice though! Man your getting some serious track time in! Most of the guys I race with are changing clutch parts and bearings every hour of running, that would cost a fortune for a day of that much running......................:), Jim

[low10s]

i finally got to drive my mugen for the first time. it is tons more easier to drive than the hot bodies pro2. i think i am in love. anyway cant race till the 12th of Feb. so till then i will clean, and rub, and stare...LOL

[penggoy]

Is there someone here using titanium shock towers from hardcore racing? What can you say about them? Someone is offering me the shock towers for $40. On hardcore racing website they sell this for $44 each. I dont know if they're worth it. Many thanks.

[winning edge designs]

$40 is a great price, if they are "titanium", most are aluminum, but even then $40 is decent..........Jim

[penggoy]

I bought the front and rear towers for $40 for both. I just installed them this evening. They are twice the weight and almost the same in thickness as the stock ones . When the snow melts, we'll see if they can stand the abuse better than the stock towers.

[PitStops]

Twice the weight, is why is I wish I had not gone crazy with Hardcore racing stuff on my Maxx

[savagepicco26]

the 5mm mugen towers would have been a better purchase than the hardcore. they're lighter than the hardcore ones. if you're racing, heavy weight is your enemy. the only thing from hardcore i like is the steering ackerman. that's only cause it's lighter than the ones available from mugen. same thing with all the other "upgrades" that are out there. mugen's upgrades are lighter than most.

[winning edge designs]

I agree that weight is an issue, but in 1/8th it isn't nearly as important as in other classes. Still, it's probably a good idea to only use Heavy Duty parts were needed, rather then for bling..........imo, Jim

[penggoy]

and for $40 for front and rear why not. The mugen or other aftermarket towers are selling them for $60 or more for both. When they (titanium) break then Im going to replace them probably with ratzas or mugen. btw is ratzas still making towers for mbx5 because on their website the towers are out of stock for a long time.

[SN VipeR]

When they (titanium) break...

Nice way to describe the word "never"!

[winning edge designs]

peng, I think Ratzas is still making MBX5 parts, but I haven't talked to Jeff from Ratzas in a while, so i'm not positive...............Jim

[PitStops]

I agree with Jim, in 1/8 scale off road, weight does not seem to be as much of an issue, due to the highly offset power to weight ratio of the new big blocks. But I would still say stay away from the extremely heavier stuff if you purchase is based simply on looks or percieved strength appeal.

Bryan

[mugenX5]

and for $40 for front and rear why not. The mugen or other aftermarket towers are selling them for $60 or more for both. When they (titanium) break then Im going to replace them probably with ratzas or mugen. btw is ratzas still making towers for mbx5 because on their website the towers are out of stock for a long time.

I highly doubt you'll ever break titanium towers unless your buggy gets run over by a Mack truck. Titanium has one of the highest fatigue ratings.

As for the towers adding weight to your buggy, it's no more than the Prospec with all of those aluminum doodads on it.

[low10s]

as far as aftermarket parts go, which one has the best quality. i am looking at shock towers and to me the mugens look the best. just wanted some opinions, before i purchase

[KansasCajun]

Since you guys are on the issue of weight and aluminum doo dads to install, I have a question.

The top Steering plate on the MBX-5 Prospec is Carbon Fiber. Is it a common replacement to replace this guy with a Racer's Edge part, or some other Aluminum part?

I'm also thinking about replacing the Rear Lower Arm Mount and the Front Lower Arm mounts with Aluminum piecer, is this also common to do so?

[winning edge designs]

Kansas, I like the carbon better, but only in areas lik the top plate and radio tray, where they don't see so much impact, like a tower would. This way they are very ridgid, since carbon fiber doesn't flex much, but not likely to break....Aluminum and or titanium would be heavier...........Jim

[asc]

Jim,

I just got my body back from you. Fantastic job!!

If there are any of you out there that want a pro level paint job on your new body, send Jim an e-mail. His work is top notch. He probably can't toot his horn on this forum for his services but I can as a satisfied customer.

Thanks again Jim. That's going to look great on my Prospec.

asc

[winning edge designs]

Asc, thanks for the props....send me a pic of it mounted up...if your cars clean when you do, LOL.......ttyl, Jim, Winning Edge Designs

[mbx5dave2]

Asc, thanks for the props....send me a pic of it mounted up...if your cars clean when you do, LOL.......ttyl, Jim, Winning Edge Designs

Hi Jim,
I am about to be the proud owner of a mbx5 and will be in constant need of new bodies I'm sure being I have only raced 2wd electric buggy's before. Could you send a photo or 3 and a price? Not sure if I should post an email addy, so write back and tell me how to contact you.
Dave

[mbx5dave2]

Jim,

I just got my body back from you. Fantastic job!!

If there are any of you out there that want a pro level paint job on your new body, send Jim an e-mail. His work is top notch. He probably can't toot his horn on this forum for his services but I can as a satisfied customer.

Thanks again Jim. That's going to look great on my Prospec.

asc

Hello Everyone,

I would like to introduce myself, Names Dave and I will be racing an mbx5 this summer in the NW and might try to go to cali once. New to nitro so it is going to be a fast learning curve, I have raced 2wd electric buggy's before and I am very mechanicly inclined, but could use all the help I can get. I am an adult male with a modest budget for the things I need to add to the car. A brief run down on what it has. Novarossi top 421B turbo (is this an ok motor to run the summer with), Airtronics 757 metal gear high torque & high speed digital servo's (any help here on either), Mugen Prospec parts- 5mm front & rear shock towers, aluminum front and rear torque rod's, aluminum front and rear lower arm supports, aluminum steering ackerman. Mugen aluminum large size fuel filter, and a Ofna 053 high torque tuned pipe. I got an Airtronics M8 with Novak rec/tr in 75 Mhz. An Ofna starter box. That's about it. I have in mind a Venom temp with fail safe and a good temp gun. I need tools, bodies (hint hint Jim), tires and wheels, wings, any upgrade parts, I read somewhere about a quick change fuel cell, I wanted one for ease of cleaning?. And I just thought of the rec. battery and transmitter batteries, can these be charged by the same charger and if so what kind? Well I have said enough for now, I will thank you all in advance for any help. Dave

[KansasCajun]

Hello Everyone,
I need tools, bodies (hint hint Jim), tires and wheels, wings, any upgrade parts, I read somewhere about a quick change fuel cell, I wanted one for ease of cleaning?. And I just thought of the rec. battery and transmitter batteries, can these be charged by the same charger and if so what kind? Well I have said enough for now, I will thank you all in advance for any help. Dave

You can start with reading this thread. Just a few pages back we were talking about batteries etc.

Welcome to the boards. :)

[winning edge designs]

Dave, send me an e mail at wedjim@cfl.rr.comor check our our site at www.jconcepts.net

I use a Fusion receiver battery and charge it with a Novak Millenium Pro, which is nice, since it is adjustable for all types of batteries with 5 profiles to preset, etc.....Thanks, Jim

[jaymoenzo]

Low10's about the werks clutch, I have one on my pro spec and love it. Get the carbon not the rouge kit and set it at 1&1/2 turn past flush and it should work great. :D

[mbx5dave2]

Dave, send me an e mail at wedjim@cfl.rr.comor check our our site at www.jconcepts.net

I use a Fusion receiver battery and charge it with a Novak Millenium Pro, which is nice, since it is adjustable for all types of batteries with 5 profiles to preset, etc.....Thanks, Jim

Hello Jim,

I went to the local hobby store and checked out a 5 cell hump pack receiver battery, and it would not fit in the box? Is the Fusion battery smaller? How will I know if it will fit or not, it is a stock mbx5 battery and receiver box? Dave

[winning edge designs]

I'm not sure, but my Fusion battery fits good, I layed some packing foam in the box first though, but all is well with the fit.........Jim

[low10s]

when you get the Werks clutch, what does it come with, and what would i need to get extra to make it work

[savagepicco26]

Hello Jim,

I went to the local hobby store and checked out a 5 cell hump pack receiver battery, and it would not fit in the box? Is the Fusion battery smaller? How will I know if it will fit or not, it is a stock mbx5 battery and receiver box? Dave
which side of the box did you try it in? the outside or the inside(closest to the engine)

[savagepicco26]

Novarossi top 421B turbo (is this an ok motor to run the summer with), Airtronics 757 metal gear high torque & high speed digital servo's (any help here on either), Mugen Prospec parts- 5mm front & rear shock towers, aluminum front and rear torque rod's, aluminum front and rear lower arm supports, aluminum steering ackerman. Mugen aluminum large size fuel filter, and a Ofna 053 high torque tuned pipe. I got an Airtronics M8 with Novak rec/tr in 75 Mhz. An Ofna starter box. That's about it. I have in mind a Venom temp with fail safe and a good temp gun. I need tools, bodies (hint hint Jim), tires and wheels, wings, any upgrade parts, I read somewhere about a quick change fuel cell, I wanted one for ease of cleaning?. And I just thought of the rec. battery and transmitter batteries, can these be charged by the same charger and if so what kind? Well I have said enough for now, I will thank you all in advance for any help. Dave
the 421's a great motor. for servos, i run the airtronics 94358. they are 200oz of torque at .10 sec. the digitals can be slightly faster, but don't have the torque. a lot of people run the ofna starters without problems, but they're a bear to get adjusted right. the MBX5 runs a smaller flywheel than ofna's and the opening in the chassis is smaller than ofna's. the Mugen BII starter box is a much better fit. the wheel on it is narrower and smaller diameter. it also weighs much less than the big ofna boxes that have the heavy 12v batteriers in them. the mugen box uses 2-6 cell packs. i run GP 3300 NiMH's in my box. there's not a motor out there that this thing hasn't been able to start. a buddy of mine races with me and has the chrome ofna starter. his box was fully charged and one cold day, it wouldn't start his motor. The Mugen BII box cranked it right up! for a temp gun, there's no question on what's the best.....Exergen DX501. they're also $270, but you get what you pay for with temp guns. i don't like the onboard temp sensors. too much hassel to read. for tools, get you a good set of hex drivers with premium shafts. i have all Integy Ti-Nitride drivers and they're great: http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2571&p_catid=11&sid=4wSJJh1EL0Vm1uG-07105336531.95 or you can buy individual sizes like i did here (since you only need the metric) http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=11&page=2&sid=4wSJJh1EL0Vm1uG-07105336531.95 they have replacable tips which is another thing i like: http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=109&p_catid=11&sid=4wSJJh1EL0Vm1uG-07105336531.95 for rims, get what's cheapest. a good tire arsenal to have are: crime fighters, and komodo 2's. other ones to get depending on your tracks are Switch, step pins, maybe some mug shots. for battery chargers, i just got a Duratrax Piranha. it's only $50, has 10 memory configurations and will charge any combination of NiCd or NiMH packs out there, RX and TX included. i use it for RX, TX, and my starter box batts. it's a sweet little charger for the money.

[jaymoenzo]

The Werks clutch comes with a flywheel,clutch shoes,adjusting nut,and everything else you will need. You will not need to buy anything else. The only thing I recomend you do is use some sandpaper and make sure the inside of your clutchbell is smooth.(where your shoes come in contact with the clutchbell) ;)

[savagepicco26]

Those conversion kits don't have longer suspension arms. that's no good. i a little bit, Mugen is going to be coming out with a conversion kit that includes longer arms to basically make an 1/8th scale 4WD stadium truck like the Hot Bodies truck. truggy conversions without extended arms are very unstable IMO.

[mustangjoe]

Im just getting back into 1/8 scale again after selling everything a few years back. I just bought a used MBX5 with a few hop-ups. The question I have is this, what is the difference in all the clutch shoes now? I see red,white, alluminum, and good ole black. So whats the difference? any help would be appreciated.

thanks, Joe

[winning edge designs]

Joe, the multiple clutch materials are for tuning clutch slip, as well as the usual engagement. Even though springs actually effect clutch shoe slip as well, the shoe material is the biggest factor. Aluminum slips the least, but requires a little more maintenance, white slips a little more, then black, then red(not available for every brand?), in my experience......For a rough track, or a slippery one, I like the black shoes, for high bite, or with big jumps that are hard to clear, aluminum.......White is long wear and works for most tracks, imo.............Jim

[mustangjoe]

thanks for the info Jim. The car came with white shoes in it. I guess i'll give them a shot before i go changing anything. The track i will be running again is as close to a "blue groove" as you can get without actually being one. Its very hard and packed with a light dust on top. When they wet it, its alot better but it dries very quickly.

I guess i'll se what happens!! One other question....has anybody on here tried a Werks adjustable clutch? Just wondering if its any good or really worth the money.

thanks guys,

Joe

[low10s]

on the Werks clutch, i cant remember where i seen it but they make a different clutch nut, where you can adjust it without taking the engine out. you drill a small hole in the clutch bell to do it, have you seen it. thanks

[mustangjoe]

No, i havnt seen anything about the werks, not a test,anybody that has used it...nothing. I wish i could find some answers about it.

[savagepicco26]

i know someone locally that's running one on a Hyper 7. i can ask him about the clutch. what is everyone wanting to know specifically?

[low10s]

to adjust it you have to remove the clutch bell. they make a nut that you can adjust it with the cb on. but you have to drill a small hole in it to get to the nut. it is no biggy just something i wanted to look into getting if i get the clutch

[mustangjoe]

Savage, Basicly just wondering if its any good, is he happy with it? Was it worth the money? would he buy another one?

thanks i do appreciate it,
Joe

[gotspeed_2000]

Savage, Basicly just wondering if its any good, is he happy with it? Was it worth the money? would he buy another one?

thanks i do appreciate it,
Joe

I'm running nothing but werks clutches. It works great and has good bite and wear. I'm using them in my hyper buggy and my mutant maxx. I've run through a bit of fuel with the carbon clutch shoes and they work great. I highly recommend this clutch system to anyone. I tried the teflon shoes, but they slip quite a bit and work well on tracks that are loose. The teflon shoes also wore pretty quick due to my local track having lots of traction. Only thing you need to worry about is the clutch tension nut tightening on it's own. I use a little bit of blue loctite on it and it holds, but if you forget to use loctite, it has moved on it's own. Get the carbon shoes and I think you'll be happy. Customer service there is great also, just email them a question, and they'll get back to you. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[mustangjoe]

gotspeed, thank you very much, every question i had ,you answered. i think i might try one of these if i dont like my current clutch set-up.

thanks again, Joe

[Blacktiger]

Well guys, i'm now the proud owner of a brand new MBX5 kit. Can't wait to get it built.

[low10s]

i finally got to race my new Mugen, that thing is like butter, magic. i love this thing. at first when i got the hot bods pro2 i thought they were hard to drive. could not get it to turn and did not handle very sharply. the first 20 ft on the track i was amazed. i would think turn and bam it was turning. if someone does not think the brand of car makes a difference they are on crack. i am so much faster, i almost got in the amain.(never came close before) well if wont be long now, and the ws7II works awesome in that chassis.

[winning edge designs]

Low10's, one thing is for sure, it helps when you can go to a website and get set-up tips from seasoned pros who have alot of experience at regional and national level events.....

Travis Amezcua does/did pretty well with his HB Pro2(against other top level drivers), But I would pick the Mugen over it, if only just because there are alot of guys with parts at every track......The Mugen is a great car though, no doubt.............Jim

[low10s]

well when i first got the pro 2 i emailed hme for his setup. still it just did not work for me. it was tough and all but to hard for me to drive. plus i just like saying MUGEN LOL.

[Blacktiger]

Lets all say it together......... MEEWGEN!

[low10s]

MEEWGEN, MEEWGEN ! wow that sounds so SWWWEEEETTTTT!

[winning edge designs]

The guys around here say MOOOoo Gin....After a few beers it sounds something like, M>hiccup<O,OOO,oooo >hiccup<...Gin nin nin.......Nin..................................... .......................nin...............

I pronounce is different..."ME-you-gan"...........LOL...Jim, www.jconcepts.net

[SN VipeR]

A japanese guy from Mugen Honda once pronounced it "Moo-gan" in an Interview at an F1 race. (Mugen Honda was an engine supplier) Since Mugen is actually a japanese name I guess Seiki's name is pronounced the same way.

[PitStops]

Finally got a new body to replace this ugly stock body, Jim, you will be happy to know I went with the Illuzion and with my new scheme I think the Scoops will actually not be a problem. I will post pics when I get it sprayed.

Bryan

[PitStops]

here is my new body

follow the link and scroll down.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=189642

Bryan

[Blacktiger]

Very nice body PitStops. Looks sweet!

[Blacktiger]

And here is a couple pics of my new MBX 5. I am building it now and love this buggy so far. I drove one on our track the other night that was setup like Jason Ashton's Silver state setup. WOW, car was hooked up and planted. SO much better than my hot bodies.

[Blacktiger]

2 of 3 pics.

[Blacktiger]

3 of 3 pics.

I will post more pics later.

[SN VipeR]

Makes me want to build mine all over again. :) It's just such a pleasure. Everything goes together so nicely.

What's that throttle linkage in that bag? An aftermarket throttle linkage?

Jim, I really like your bodies. When my original one wears out I think I'll get an Illuzion too. :cool:

Edit: I just saw your tube of Goop. Man I love that stuff! Too bad it isn't available over here so I bring like 5 tubes over everytime we go to Canada. :D
I always smear it into the body where it touches the side guards and body posts. Makes the paint last so much longer.

[Blacktiger]

Yeah I enjoy building them as much as I do running them. And yes that is an aftermarket throttle linkage. It's by Dynamite and is a very cool setup. Uses ball cups instead of the ususal collars. And it is only $10.

Here is a link to it on their website.
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN2568

And I don't go anywhere without my GOOP!

[winning edge designs]

You can buy the same stuff in a different packaging. It's also called industrial sealant glue. It is labeled as flexible, waterproof and in the same style tube. I got some at a craft supply here called michaels for $3.50, rather then the $5.99 for the goop, aka, shoe goo.

Thanks SN Viper, we like making racers look good on the track, especially sitting still!............:), Jim

[Blacktiger]

Another pic!

[low10s]

i just order some parts from mbx5.com, anyway i got the cradcock antilock brakes, and the aluminum fuel tank support quick release kit, have any of you got this before and how do you like it.

[SN VipeR]

Here's a review of the Cradock brake disks.
http://www.neo-buggy.net/Reviews/review_of_cradock_brake_disks__a.htm
Personally, I think there's a reason why all manufacturers have changed from fibreglass discs (used to be the standard) to steel discs.

Blacktiger, you should've gotten the Prospec. It comes with shocks and a wing. ;)

[Blacktiger]

LOL Sn Viper!

[Blacktiger]

Ok guys, Here is an updated pic. The rims and wing I dyed with RIT Golden Yellow just in case anyone wants to know. Will match the body I have planned.

[SN VipeR]

Looks nice. I also like to match my rims and wing to the paint job on the body - obviously. :)
By the way, Goop works great to glue those fuel tube holders to the tank. In fact it's the only glue I've got that does. All else fell off.

PS: If anyone is interested in buggy snow bashing, I might just have the right video for you on my page (http://www.snviper.ch.vu). :p

[Blacktiger]

And here it is after a run this past week. Used some rims and tires I had and slapped my old pro-line body on from my lightning. Body fit well actualy. Only had to drill a hole for the antenna and trim some around the front arms.

[rc10bob]

Hi, I was just wondering, does anybody know if they make a kiT for the MBX to updated to the Pro I just got my new MBX-5 and before I put it together I was wondering if it was a good idea if they made a Pro kit would be the time to do it thank you appreciate any help. bob

[SN VipeR]

Hi Bob,
they don't make such an upgrade kit yet but you can get the tuning parts separately here: www.mbx5parts.com
Why didn't you get the Prospec to begin with? ;)

[winning edge designs]

bob, in all honesty, the majority of the hop-up parts aren't needed to get the best results, unless your a national level driver and can get every ounce out of what is available from the car on the track. Most racers aren't tapping the potential, me included, so it's overkill to have all the aluminum goodies and only a few of them help durability. I would get the arm mounts for the front, when you can, in aluminum and your good to go....the base MBX5 is a great car!..................................Jim

[BOWTIE1]

nice looking x5 i got mine build ill get some pics on it up on here[/QUOTE]

[low10s]

i added some things, mostly because i like a stiff chassis. and some bling also LOL. i just put a proline yellow wing on there with yellow rims on Kamoto 2's, waiting for the race weekend.

[BOWTIE1]

well here is a pic of my lil juunky x5 "D

[BOWTIE1]

grrrr i forgot how to post a pic lol

[BOWTIE1]

ok let me try 1 more time http://tinypic.com/20ihy0

[low10s]

won my first race last night, man if anyone has not had a chance to drive this buggy they are deprived, could not be happier

[tgivler]

I am thinking of buying one of these buggies, I currently race 1/8th scale on road and our LHS built a new outdoor off-road track and these things look crazy cool. Does anyone have any suggestions on the building of one of these?
I am probably going to run a Mega zx-21 off road ( since I run a Mega zx-21 on road in my road car).

[SN VipeR]

Tgivler, check out this page for suggestions. There's not much more a buggy racer can ask for: www.twf8.ws You'll find tips and building reviews en masse.

I also had my first race with the Mugen this weekend. Check out my race report here: www.snviper.ch.vu
I've also got 2hrs worth of DV footage and I'll cut a little video out of that, so stay tuned.

[PitStops]

tgivler,

there is not much to building the MBX5, it is a very easy build, the only thing I changed is my diff oils and shock oils, but I am still working with the shock oils for the set up on our track. my diff oils are 3/5/1 I know alot of people are runnign 5/7/2 as well. as far as engine choices there are tons of them I settled on the OS Vspec, and I am also picking up a TOP P5 as a secondary engine.

Bryan

[tgivler]

I appreciate the feedback... I am ordering my Mugen tomorrow! I have settled on running the new serpent ZX-21 race engine in it. I am getting excited about the upcoming season...as long as it will turn nice and stay there for a while, but in the mean time...we do have a couple of indoor nitro off-road tracks in the area.

[PitStops]

I wanna move where you live, it keeps raining on our track on race day but on off weekends it is gorgeous.

I just wanna race!!!!!

[tgivler]

I wanna move where you live, it keeps raining on our track on race day but on off weekends it is gorgeous.

I just wanna race!!!!!

I hear you!!....It has been crazy here in S.W. Missouri...one day it is 81 degrees and the next day ( race day) ...it is 41 and the wind is blowing 23 mph. It is nice to have a couple of different tracks to run indoors though..
You can race year round that way. I have heard talk of having a "series" where we trade off between 4 tracks each race week...to mix things up...kind of like the pro races. That might be interesting.

[SN VipeR]

I've finished the video of last weekend's race in an Indoor riding arena in Switzerland. It's a bit big but it's got superb picture quality and resolution. There are all sorts of crashes and racing action from the qualifiers and the finals on it.
Have fun and tell me what you think!

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/internalcombustion.jpg

You'll find it for download on my website: www.snviper.ch.vu

[consistent]

I don't have time to go throught the last65 pages or so and I need to know if the x5 Diffs leak through the housing. I used to race the x4 and they would leak throught the screw hole that held the diff housing.

[low10s]

mine do not leak at all. also mine do not have the set screw in the cases. but when i build my diff, i add a bit of synthetic grease to the outdrive before itgoes into the o ring. not one leak.

[consistent]

thanks low 10s. I heard a rumor at my local track by the usual rumor mill guy about an MBX 6? He said we'll see it in about a month, and that he read it from an R/C talk forum.

[the rock]

thanks low 10s. I heard a rumor at my local track by the usual rumor mill guy about an MBX 6? He said we'll see it in about a month, and that he read it from an R/C talk forum.

nope about the mbx6... i spoke to mugen about a month ago and they said that it will be a while before the x6 arrives, especially now since the x5 is winning... no need to cut their own feet yet.

[consistent]

thanks for the response "rock" now I can order my x5 and not worry about it being obsolete in a month.

[winning edge designs]

One thing is for sure, even if they do end up with a X6 in a short time, it better be good to beat the MBX5!...............Some guys still race the 7.5 Kyosho, so a new buggy won't all of a sudden make the X5 obsolete anyway, don't sweat it..............Jim

[SN VipeR]

I also heard rumors. Some said the new one will have c-hub steering again. Didn't believe a single word though! Some people want to make themselves important by making up that stuff.

So, anyone like my vid? :o

[consistent]

thanks guys, and i liked the video SN Viper

[the rock]

I also heard rumors. Some said the new one will have c-hub steering again. Didn't believe a single word though! Some people want to make themselves important by making up that stuff.

So, anyone like my vid? :o

yep i saw the vid... very cool.... ive always wanted an on-board cam... I thought maybe I could drive my buggy from the pits on my laptop like playstation...hehehe :D but now I see the ride is a little bumpy for that idea :p very cool vids though......

well my next project is mugen's SOON to be released X5 Truggy Kit. Its blowing everyone away. you can see it on www.mugenracing.com It will be arount $300-325... will include longer chassi, pro-line wheels extensions, body, body mounts, wheels and tires and a bigger spur with a new center diff mount... I think that covers everything.

I know this is off the subject but im sure you gents will enjoy this one. I just finished my RC18T project. Here is a picture of it. Its 1/18th scale. With a Mamaba 8000 and 3 cell Li-Po. It looks like my x5's child.... :p but let me tell you that it will run CIRCLES around my x5 with a RB ws7II. It is absolutly jaw dropping fast. And since the 18t is 4x4 it has NO wheelie issues like the mini-t. On the track of course im not as fast as the x5 due to stability problems on something so small... but on the straights..... its no comparison :eek: that is if I dont hit an ant and go flying about 20 feet in the air.. hehehehe.... but in a parking lot... its on fire!!! drives straight and handles great!!! Ive done 4 full batteries and have had no drivetrain issues

hope you enjoy.

[the rock]

more..

[the rock]

more...

[the rock]

more......

[the rock]

last one....

[tgivler]

I just got my MBX-5 today!! I am so excited to get it together.

[low10s]

i was the same way. i love mine. i dont see me driving anything else, totally comfortable with this buggy. how you going to set it up, radio, engine, etc...

[winning edge designs]

Rock, bad arse truck dude!!!...............Jim

[tgivler]

i was the same way. i love mine. i dont see me driving anything else, totally comfortable with this buggy. how you going to set it up, radio, engine, etc...
Well my birthday was Saturday and my wife bought me a Jammin jp-2 pipe, I am using the new Mega ZX-21 from Serpent for the motor and Airtronics M8 radio with DSM Spektrum. I am going to put the crimefighter tires that came with it on the shelf and go with some panther Kamoto's.

[savagepicco26]

k2's and crime fighters are very similar in performance. there's some tracks that K2's work well on and other's they don't and crime fighters are better. i'd keep them with you. you never know when you'll need them. i have the following that are all similar:
proline crime fighters
panther komodo 2's
treadz Jolly's
all are very similar looking tread, but some work when others won't and vice versa. i keep about 7 different treads with me when i go to the track.

[tgivler]

Thanks Savage, I will mount the crime fighters and throw them in my box to have them if I need them. My LHS track is in the middle of a make over ( they are lenghtening two straight aways and lengthening out some S's). So I plan on having to experiment with tires and gearing.

[PitStops]

if you track is a bit loamy and you want a good tire that wears well, try the proline Badlands.

you would be amazed that they actually work. and last forever.

Bryan

[tgivler]

I have a question for those of you who have had your Mugen for a while....
What in your opinion is an essintial hop-up for the Mugen?....( of the ProSpec options...or any other??)
I didnt have teh money to get the prospec at first but as I get some expendable cash I would like to get my want list started.
:rolleyes:

[savagepicco26]

chassis braces and shock towers.

[winning edge designs]

I haven't been to a track where Komoto 2's were "better" then Crimefighters, but I have seen times when Komoto 2s are "as good", usually Crimefighters are better, imo......I don't represent either company, if it matters........Alot of racers will insist one is "better", but look in thier tire box to see what else they have tried that day if possible, :)......................Jim

[tgivler]

chassis braces and shock towers.

I was told that the chassis braces were the first to change out before so I bought them today....and ordered the shock towers. :D

[PitStops]

I did the chassis braces first. then the hinge pins. I also did the rear chassis upper mount and the radio tray mounts(only cuz I found the cheap) then I did the towers and the alum hinge pin mounts for front and rear and the steering arm.

have not and most liely wont do the rear uppers or the one piece mount.

[savagepicco26]

rear uppers are not that big of a deal. the stock rods weigh 6 grams each and the titaniums are 3 grams, but if you can tell the difference in 6 grams, you're better than any pro out there. the hinge pins is more of a convenience thing IMO. another thing i think is awesome are the brass bushings from here: http://www.mbx5parts.com/productdetail.asp?id=c1015 that website is like a dream come true for any MBX5 owner!

[tgivler]

Well....my buggy is just about done, it should be done tomorrow. All that is left is the radio gear, motor and wing. THIS KIT IS SOOO AWESOME! It looks fast just sitting there in pieces....he he he :D

[consistent]

thanks low 10s. I heard a rumor at my local track by the usual rumor mill guy about an MBX 6? He said we'll see it in about a month, and that he read it from an R/C talk forum.

I JUST BOUGHT AN X5. I'VE ONLY BUILT THE DIFFS AND SO FAR SO GOOD. I'M STILL HEARING THE RUMOR OF AN X6. ARE THERE ANY GUYS FROM MUGEN IN THIS FORUM. I'D LIKE TO HEAR FROM THEM. THE GUY THAT IS TELLING ME ABOUT THE X6 SAID THAT HE HEARD IT FROM A SPONSORED MUGEN DRIVER.

[Breakin2]

I just bought a Prospec, so that would be my luck.

[SN VipeR]

another thing i think is awesome are the brass bushings from !

I've heard from another racer that he got those brash bushings and was very disappointed. They wouldn't fit into the aluminium parts without filing and sanding.

I also don't see the point in having them at all. Mugen made the plastic bushings especially so they would wear out and not the aluminium parts. (as they do on my Hyper, GRR!) They're also cheap and easy to replace so when you take the car apart after a few races you can just put new ones in in the process. The brass bushings will surely wear out too but be much more expensive to replace and they'll be harder on the hinge pins.

Other than that mbx5parts is great and I've ordered a few times from them.

Another thing to get are the CVD protectors. I have them on the car and only the front ones were torn apart, probably because of the steering lock they get much more stress. The ones on the center and rear CVDs have held up great and have kept the dirt out. This way you can grease the CVDs without worrying about dirt and they'll last much longer.

[savagepicco26]

I've heard from another racer that he got those brash bushings and was very disappointed. They wouldn't fit into the aluminium parts without filing and sanding.

I also don't see the point in having them at all. Mugen made the plastic bushings especially so they would wear out and not the aluminium parts. (as they do on my Hyper, GRR!) They're also cheap and easy to replace so when you take the car apart after a few races you can just put new ones in in the process. The brass bushings will surely wear out too but be much more expensive to replace and they'll be harder on the hinge pins.
they fit very tightly into the alluminum block which is what you want. i use pliers to press them in. i've been running the same hinge pins for over a year, and they still look new. the brass bushing don't wear the hinge pins at all. a set of plastic bushing will cost you about $4-5 a set. the brass bushing will easily outlast 10 if not 20 sets of plastic bushings. 10 sets of plastic's and the brass have already saved you $10. the brass bushings DO NOT wear out the allumninum blocks either. i've got the same CNC blocks and towers for well over a year and the bushings have done absolutely nothing to them. i don't know what those other races were doing that you talked to, but they weren't doing something right. i know of at least a dozen racers locally that can back me up on these bushings. mugen designed them to wear out so that you'd have to keep buying more from them. they say they're designed that way. just like they say that the diff o-rings are designed to leak and we all know that's a bunch of crap. i don't even look at the stock o-rings. they go in the trash and i replace them with the larger ones that don't leak.

[SN VipeR]

Interesting point. Good to hear from someone else that tried them! I took the experiences with metal hinge pin holders I had from my Hyper, but they' were obviously not applicable in this case.

I just might try those bushings myself. :)

You're right about the O-rings. I also replaced mine against the carolinas ones when I built my X5.
I heard that the stock ones don't leak if they're greased though. But I'm not gonna find out.

[savagepicco26]

I heard that the stock ones don't leak if they're greased though. But I'm not gonna find out.
good call! ;)

[low10s]

with grease they dont. what i did was when i put my diffs together i put a little synthetic grease(amsoil) on the o-ring, and a little on the outdrive shaft. works great and i cannot tell any increase of friction. have not had a leak in over 2 months.

[savagepicco26]

i just replaced them and have never had to worry about when or if they'll ever leak.

[low10s]

i finally got to use the werks clutch in my ws7II. it took me a bit to get it adjusted and trying different shoes but i settled on the carbon for now. the rulon shoes grab good but they wear kinda quick. if they were to make aluminum crap it would be nice. it does not have the grab of aluminum but very smooth. i am using the gold spring with a bout 1 1/2 to 2 turns from flush.

[PitStops]

Wow, now that I finally got my buggy a great setup. Man I thought it handled good before. this thing practially drives itself.

[DsWright]

Need to find the washers that shim the clutchbell.

5x10x1mm and 3x8x.5mm

also need to find the little removable spacers for the Caster setting... can't seem to find these online, any ideas?

I checked mbx5parts.com and stormer.... can't find on any others either

thanks

[DsWright]

Doh forgot, i also need to find the personal transponder mount...

anyone online stock all Mugen part numbers with decent prices?

[low10s]

try hobbyguyrc.com, they are all mugen.

[DsWright]

nope=(

[DsWright]

anyone have an RcScrewz kit or something similar that can check to see if the washers are included? if so that would be my best option since i need spares for other stuff anyway.

Plz post what screw kits you have and let me know, look for a kit $30 or under.

[savagepicco26]

anyone have an RcScrewz kit or something similar that can check to see if the washers are included? if so that would be my best option since i need spares for other stuff anyway.

Plz post what screw kits you have and let me know, look for a kit $30 or under.
i have the stainless RC Screwz kit. it doesn't come with any washers at all. if you need clutch shims, get the clutch shim kit from Ofna. www.nitrohouse.com will have it if you can't get it locally. also, they sell every part there is by mugen. they'll have the transponder mount, but it's not seperate. it's part of the radio mount kit or something like that.

[low10s]

i was looking at the racers edge servo tray and front nose plate, does this have a rigity addition or just some bling. i want to stiffen it up a bit. thanks

[savagepicco26]

i was looking at the racers edge servo tray and front nose plate, does this have a rigity addition or just some bling. i want to stiffen it up a bit. thanks
i like the Xtreme Racing one's from Carolina's RC better. http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodList.asp?idcategory=45 he used to carry red also, i'm sure he can get it.

[SN VipeR]

I can't possibly imagine how anything could be stiffer than the stock carbon. (apart from 4mm carbon :) )
It's just bling I think.

[the rock]

Rock, bad arse truck dude!!!...............Jim

Thanks Jim!!!!

[KyoshoKev]

also need to find the little removable spacers for the Caster setting... can't seem to find these online, any ideas?

u dont buy them seperatly, they come with the top arms ;)

[SN VipeR]

Here's my newest racing video. The Mugen just gets better and better. :)
You can find it on my page. (http://www.snviper.ch.vu)

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/swisscup.jpg

[Nutter]

Nice videos SN VipeR - I love the size/quality! Where'd you place in the final?

---

I'm most likely going to be picking up a Prospec + OS V-Spec early next week (I would've picked it up this week, but some big issues have come up at the local track which may very well mean that there will be no track anymore - the outcome will be known on Monday), and it'll be my first 1/8 and also first R/C at all in several years as I've been out of racing for about 3 years now (moving internationally does that, hah). I've read through about 1/3 - 1/2 the (last) pages in this thread so far, and haven't found much at all on tuning the MBX-5 besides 5/7/2 for the diffs seems to be the most common. What about shock oil, springs, sway bars, clutch springs, clutch shoes, shock poisitions, toe in/out, camber, etc? Assuming the track isn't closed by the local council (ugh), the track surface is supposed to be semi-loamy (but harder under the top layer/on the racing line), medium-bite and not too flat nor rough, and medium sized.

Also, I'll be stocking up on common parts at the same time I pick up the buggy, so a list of the parts that I'll most likely need to replace soonest (or upgrade) either from normal use or stupidity would be most appreciated (actual part numbers would absolutely rock, since I don't actually have the buggy yet to know what some parts are specifically).

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help a poor Mugen-newbie out (prior to moving to Canada, I'd only raced Losi's for the last 10 years with a few other manufacturers before then). ;)

[low10s]

i am new to the mugen also, had it about 4 months. for setups i ran Chad bradley Boggy creek setup for a while. a good setup for alot of jumps and surface like you mentioned. the mbx is a great handling buggy. i run the stock swaybars, cradcock brakes, and panther tires. Komoto 1 and 2's, steps, and Proline crimfighters. for hopups go to www.mbx5parts.com they have everything you could want. k back to the tuning. i have recently switched to 35wt front and 30wt in back with 1 degree toeout and -1degree camber in front an Ect tek rear toe block with 2 1/2 degrees toe in, and i am liking this setup pretty good. to me the clutch depends on engine. i am running the werks adjustable right now, and i run aluminum too. so the engine will tell you more about the clutch setup you will loose. my RB ws7II i use the aluminum with 1.1 springs for total snap. if you havent already go to www.neo-buggy.net and check out the forum, it has alot of setups there. good luck

[KyoshoKev]

cool page viper!

[KyoshoKev]

Quote:
Originally Posted by low10s
i was looking at the racers edge servo tray and front nose plate, does this have a rigity addition or just some bling. i want to stiffen it up a bit. thanks


i like the Xtreme Racing one's from Carolina's RC better. http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore...p?idcategory=45 he used to carry red also, i'm sure he can get it.


what flexes is the radio tray posts.

[Radrcdriver]

Need help to get my prospec too turn better like a 777 on and off power steering and help would be great thank's.

[savagepicco26]

need to know your current setup first.

[Radrcdriver]

Have 350 shock oil F & R blue springs have grey also. Diff oil 5-7-2. Rear toe 2.5 degrees rear camber 3 degrees front 2. Toe out about 1/2 degrees on front. caster shims half in front other half in rear. Thanks for any help.

[low10s]

we have close the same setup,i have 50wt front, 40wt rear, -1 degree camber in front and back 0 toe in front, 2 1/2 in rear. also one spacer behind arm. what is your ride height?

[Seb]

I don't want to knok you but since you don't know what to make changes to get more steering I assume you are not the best driver out there.

I run 30wt oil in all shocks. This allows for more weight transfer on and off power, resulting in more steering in an off-power situation. I don't get off the throtle instantly when I drive... actualy I never lift all the way, so I never trasfer as much weight to the front as I could but the option is always there to get more steering if I was to filt off the throtle all the way.

To get on-power steering you can do some of these:

1) Fr. ride height lower then Rr. ride height.

2) Lay the rear shocks all the way in. This creates a sway bar effect (not side to side) but when you accelerate, it won't let the rear end squat.

3) stiffer rear spring (but you should not need to as this will affect something else more severly than the top 2 suggestions
Those thinks should do it...

[Seb]

I love Mugen [X5] ... best car ever... its so good Xray decided to copy it and put a kyosho front end on it. hahaha

[savagepicco26]

the mugen #350 oil is 30wt.

[low10s]

yea i love the mugen, my setup steers very well, have no prob cutting in on the 777's. i have some upgrades that I think make me drive it pretty hard but stay on all four wheels.

[2Fast2Fury]

i am new to the mugen also, had it about 4 months. for setups i ran Chad bradley Boggy creek setup for a while. a good setup for alot of jumps and surface like you mentioned. the mbx is a great handling buggy. i run the stock swaybars, cradcock brakes, and panther tires. Komoto 1 and 2's, steps, and Proline crimfighters. for hopups go to www.mbx5parts.com they have everything you could want. k back to the tuning. i have recently switched to 35wt front and 30wt in back with 1 degree toeout and -1degree camber in front an Ect tek rear toe block with 2 1/2 degrees toe in, and i am liking this setup pretty good. to me the clutch depends on engine. i am running the werks adjustable right now, and i run aluminum too. so the engine will tell you more about the clutch setup you will loose. my RB ws7II i use the aluminum with 1.1 springs for total snap. if you havent already go to www.neo-buggy.net and check out the forum, it has alot of setups there. good luck

www.allstarhobbies.com has a great selection of MBX5 parts as well, and I believe that they have the cheapest prices I have seen on the parts.

[Radrcdriver]

Hey low10s could you tell me your setup so I could turn better like a 777 my off power is pretty good but on power sux. Any help would be great.

[low10s]

one thing i did was trim the pivot ball blocks. turn to one side all the way and you will see the plastic touch the p/b shaft trim both sides of it. when you look at it when you turn it with the servo arm disconnected you will see what i mean. also what servo are you using? now my setup works good for me, so it may or may not be the thing for you. email me and i will give you my total setup and see how you like it. r1harper@msn.com

[ronin8451]

Mugen has new knuckles that you don't have to dremel and also new lower arms for added clearance at full lock. These new parts are the same part number, but you can definately tell the difference ! The knuckles now have braces top and bottom on the steering arm in addition to a thicker area where the nut goes for the tie rod link. The new arms are cut back and thus are obvious. I just got a shipment in from Mugen, so it seems all the newest orders will be these updated parts.

[mbx5prospec]

Mugen has new knuckles that you don't have to dremel and also new lower arms for added clearance at full lock. These new parts are the same part number, but you can definately tell the difference ! The knuckles now have braces top and bottom on the steering arm in addition to a thicker area where the nut goes for the tie rod link. The new arms are cut back and thus are obvious. I just got a shipment in from Mugen, so it seems all the newest orders will be these updated parts.


what does full lock mean?

[Nutter]

what does full lock mean?Steering hard left/right - ie with the new parts you can turn sharper. I just checked with Carolinas RC (mbx5parts.com) and they have the new front lower arms & uprights in stock - I ordered a couple yesterday to go with my new Prospec kit, so when I built it I can use the updated parts. :)

[Nutter]

In the latest issue (July 05) of R/C Car mag is a nice article on building a ProSpec kit in preparation for high-level competition (RC Pro Series), with several tips from team drivers that I haven't seen elsewhere. It's supposed to be the first of a series of articles actually - I'm quite looking forward to them if they're as good as this one (you just have to get past the "slight" pimping of his sponsors, heh).

..but I didn't say that in here if Steve (RCCA) asks. ;)

[winning edge designs]

Nutter, ya, it was a good article. I just biult a Prospec and as he states in the article, it is a real pain to figure out which bag everything is in. For example, my X1 took 7 hours to biuld, the Prospec took 10 hours. LOL, finding bag S was fun, since it is the entire bag for anything not in a labeled bag. Wasted 15-20 minutes on that alone. But the kit is Super nice when all is said and done. I only wonder how people who need a "do not use in shower" label on thier hair dryers will make out biulding it? LMAO.........Jim