Mugen MBX5 Buggy Forum v1.0

[Nutter]

Yeah, I'm assembling a ProSpec right now, and I loved the "S" bag thing - especially that the original instructions called it S, the ProSpec instructions call it Q, and it was actually R in my kit! Also some parts were on parts trees -nowhere- near where the instructions say they are (such as the rear hub spacers... I'm guessing that's because the ProSpec doesn't have the molded hubs, so they stuck them on another parts tree and forgot to update the instructions for that fact). I'm having a great time though! I'd be long finished, but I'm waiting for the updated front lower arms & uprights, and different diff o-rings to arrive (which are early enough in the assembly to really cut back on what I can assemble before they arrive).

I did notice that the shock ends seem to be made of really soft plastic. While screwing them onto the shock shafts (by hand), I didn't even notice any difference in the effort required when the threads bottomed out, so I over-tightened both the rear shock ends and stretched the plastic a bit. They'll be the first things I replace with aftermarket parts. :P

As far as instructions go, I also picked up a new Ofna starter box - and its instructions are a million times worse; literally one exploded diagram of the whole thing, and one of the wiring setup in a single configuration. There's nothing on any other configurations, and even the exploded diagram was missing several things - including all information about the pins!

[Jayweezy]

Where can I find this buggy for cheap (that's funny) because the lowest price I can seem to find is $700 plus tax

[winning edge designs]

Jay, $700 is a good price. The standard MBX5 is about $500-540, the rear hubs, motor mount, shock tower and braces seperate are $200, then you would still need the titanium turnbuckles, better rear linkages and CNC rear arm front block. I think they cost the retailers about $660ish, so I don't have any problem letting them make $35-40 to help pay thier $3000+ a month rent......:), Jim

[cnk]

I'm in the process of trying to get an MBX-5 Prospec with OS V-Spec for $850 shipped. If the deal goes through, I'll post up where I got it from. :)

[SN VipeR]

Hey guys!
This is the video from my first Swiss championship race:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/firststrike.jpg (http://www.snviper.ch.vu)

As always you'll find it on my page (http://www.snviper.ch.vu).
Have fun and tell me how you like it!

[Blacktiger]

Sweet vid!

[Nutter]

Well, I've finished building my new ProSpec kit.. however, I was left with a single "mystery part" when all was said and done. Upon further investigation, it's a collet for the flywheel, part C0702B - however the instructions make no mention of using it at all. I'm using an OS VZ-B V-Spec with a standard SG crank; anyone know if the collet is needed for this engine, or what engines it is actually needed for?

This is the part, it's metal and about the size of a clutch nut.
http://www.canuckoffroad.com/images/gallery/1654_mystery_part_01.jpg

[consistent]

I'm trying to break in my motor and as it idles through a tank the pilot shaft screw that holds the clutch bell tightens after a minute or two and locks up the clutch bell. I placed the shims the way the directions show for the MBX 5. Any advice how to stop this so I could break in my motor would be appreciated. I try and leave a 1/16 of space between the screw and shim but the problem happened again.

[Nutter]

consistent: Did you use blue (not red) loctite on the screw threads? You should've been using loctite on nearly every metal-to-metal screw, even where the instructions don't mention it.

[savagepicco26]

Well, I've finished building my new ProSpec kit.. however, I was left with a single "mystery part" when all was said and done. Upon further investigation, it's a collet for the flywheel, part C0702B - however the instructions make no mention of using it at all. I'm using an OS VZ-B V-Spec with a standard SG crank; anyone know if the collet is needed for this engine, or what engines it is actually needed for?

This is the part, it's metal and about the size of a clutch nut.
you have to have a collet on every engine. that's what keeps the flywheel from free-spinning on the crankshaft.

[savagepicco26]

I'm trying to break in my motor and as it idles through a tank the pilot shaft screw that holds the clutch bell tightens after a minute or two and locks up the clutch bell. I placed the shims the way the directions show for the MBX 5. Any advice how to stop this so I could break in my motor would be appreciated. I try and leave a 1/16 of space between the screw and shim but the problem happened again.
the final washer underneath the screw should be smaller in diameter than the shims. is that the case with your motor? also, you may have too many shims on there. that screw should be tightened all the way down. it shouldn't be able to get any tighter just from the motor running. are you leaving it partially unscrewed?

[cnk]

Well, I've finished building my new ProSpec kit.. however, I was left with a single "mystery part" when all was said and done. Upon further investigation, it's a collet for the flywheel, part C0702B - however the instructions make no mention of using it at all. I'm using an OS VZ-B V-Spec with a standard SG crank; anyone know if the collet is needed for this engine, or what engines it is actually needed for?
[/img]

That part is usually put on the engine crank first, then the flywheel goes over it.

[Nutter]

hm.. dang. I guess that I'll be reassembling the clutch then! :p I have to ask - why is it not mentioned in the instructions for either the buggy or engine that this is needed?

[low10s]

does anyone still have the regular Mbx-5 for sale cheap. i let a friend drive mine and now he has to get one LOL. i have found it for $529 and the Pro Spec for $719. thanks

[savagepicco26]

does anyone still have the regular Mbx-5 for sale cheap. i let a friend drive mine and now he has to get one LOL. i have found it for $529 and the Pro Spec for $719. thanks
i just sold a used one with motor, pipe, good crime fighters for $300. all it needed was a radio and servos. wasn't a prospec though.

[zoracky]

i just bought the a new pro spec... How do i know if it has the updated parts or not???? I would like to find out before i put this thing together.. Quick replies please i cant wait to put this thing together :D :D thx.

[Nutter]

zoracky: Apparently it's unlikely that new kits will have the updated parts for at least a few months - they build them in batches, so it won't be until their stocks run low enough to make another batch and those are shipped to the US. At least that's what Chad Bradley said. :)

I'll take some photos of the updated & old parts for comparison.

[Nutter]

Here's the photos of the old & updated parts for comparison:

Old front uprights:
http://www.canuckoffroad.com/images/gallery/1655_front_uprights_old.jpg

Old front lower arms:
http://www.canuckoffroad.com/images/gallery/1656_front_lower_arms_old.jpg

Updated front uprights and front lower arms (I've increased the brightness so you can see the differences):
http://www.canuckoffroad.com/images/gallery/1657_front_updated_parts.jpg

[zoracky]

man your great :) thanks alot

[consistent]

I thought that i needed a 1/16 in gap between the last shim and the screw head in the pilot shaft. I do not tighten the screw all the way becasue it binds the bearing

[savagepicco26]

I thought that i needed a 1/16 in gap between the last shim and the screw head in the pilot shaft. I do not tighten the screw all the way becasue it binds the bearing
if you don't have a gap with the screw tightened all the way, you have too many shims on there. the screw MUST be tightened all the way down and still allow the clutch bell and bearings to spin freely. you may not need shims depending on the motor.

[consistent]

Thankyou savagepicco26 I have been going crazy and that has been the best advice so far. I'm running an RB S7. The instructions for the MBX 5 show using a shim behind the clutchbell and two in front. I'm going to try and use 1 shim in the front and I'll let you know how it works.

[Nutter]

consistent: You'll notice that the shim behind the flywheel is labeled as being for "clearance adjustment" in the instructions. Don't use it if you don't need it (and you don't). :)

[consistent]

the shim that the collet rests against?

[consistent]

will that cause the collet to damage the rubber seal of the bearing?

[savagepicco26]

Thankyou savagepicco26 I have been going crazy and that has been the best advice so far. I'm running an RB S7. The instructions for the MBX 5 show using a shim behind the clutchbell and two in front. I'm going to try and use 1 shim in the front and I'll let you know how it works.
the shims in the manual are shown just for physical placement sake. they're not all needed. i run an S7 also. I have one shim behind the flywheel, and maybe 1 between the clutchbell and the end screw and washer. i don't have any inside the clutchbell.

the shim that the collet rests against?
will that cause the collet to damage the rubber seal of the bearing?
if the collet's on there correctly, it should only be contacting the inner ring of the bearing. it shouldn't touch the rubber seal. as i said above with my shims, you'll be fine to leave that shim on there, just take some off the clutchbell.

[consistent]

Savagepicco26 and Nutter,
Thank you for the help. I guess I had that extra shim behind the fly wheel. I thought that the shim had to be there so I would have never taken it off. Thanx again :)
Savagepicco26 I took the shim behind the flywheel off before seeing your response and it seems to be fine but if I still have problems I'll put it back on and remove the one behind the clutchbell

[savagepicco26]

cool. glad we could help. let us know if you need more. we all do at some point or another ;)

[jaymoenzo]

Can anyone tell me where I can find info on the msr.THANKS

[savagepicco26]

http://www.mugenracing.com/
then go to "what's new"
Native Racing is coming out with a conversion similar to Mugen's for the MBX5. Native's conversion has actual longer A-arms instead of wheel hub extenders. i've held off getting the MSR conversion cause i don't like the hub extenders.

[consistent]

finally broke in the motor and I will be racing tomorrow against a track where most of the guys run Kyosho, I'll let you guys know the outcome on saturday

[KansasCajun]

An off the wall question.... but.......

Has anyone adapted or know of a larger fuel tank that will fit on the MBX-5 Chassis or more to the point the MSR-T chassis?

Since I've converted it to a truggy, I find I could use the extra fuel carrying capacity if I had it. It also means I could "motor up" to a Pico 27 (it is an unlimited class right and fuel tanks are not measured in Unlimited trucks right?)

With a 125cc tank and a .26/.27/.28 it would mean a fuel stop about every 4-5 minutes. I'd like to get oh, something along the lines of 180cc (ie think savage size) tank to get the longer running times inbetween fillups.

Anyone have a bright idea?

BTW, since some of you guys are posting pics.. here's my MSR kit.. and me :)

http://www.kickingchicken.com/kickingchicken/kickingchickenracing.nsf/dx/Me&theMSR.JPG/$file/Me&theMSR.JPG

And a few Larger pics of it on the track for the RC Pro Series South Race 2

http://www.kickingchicken.com/kickingchicken/kickingchickenracing.nsf/images/DSCN0013.JPG

http://www.kickingchicken.com/kickingchicken/kickingchickenracing.nsf/images/DSCN0002.JPG

http://www.kickingchicken.com/kickingchicken/kickingchickenracing.nsf/images/DSCN0014.JPG

[jaymoenzo]

thanks for the info (mugenracing.com) but I meant on this forum or site. Btw as far as running a bigger tank, run the ofna violator tank it's a 145cc's. And one more thing can anyone tell me how to post a picture. That way I can show you the tank and how it's mounted.Thanks .

[jaymoenzo]

I'm running my msr prospec with the novarossi 528xr and it is ballistic but for anyone that doesn't know. Before you glue your tires make sure you tape strapping tape to the inside of your tires. That will stop them from balloning and make it handle much better.

[KansasCajun]

Btw as far as running a bigger tank, run the ofna violator tank it's a 145cc's. And one more thing can anyone tell me how to post a picture. That way I can show you the tank and how it's mounted.Thanks .

I've looked at the OFNA 9.5 tank (online only) and I'm also looking at the ONFA Titan fuel tank (250cc) and that is more inline with what I'm talking about. I'm going to try to find a shop locally that stocks both tanks so I can "match em up" on the mugen. :)

To post a picture you have to have a site where you can upload the picture to, and then use the "picture link" when you post a reply to map to the link to the pictures.

[KyoshoKev]

hey sn viper, do u have a setup for grass?

[savagepicco26]

I'd like to get oh, something along the lines of 180cc (ie think savage size) tank to get the longer running times inbetween fillups.

the savage fuel tank mount holes are in different locations than the X5's. obviously the height of the tank is more also. i don't know how much vertical space you've got on the truggy, but if you've got the room, some custom brackets could be made to fit to the savage tank.

[KansasCajun]

the savage fuel tank mount holes

I said Savage size (ie 180cc+) not the actual savage tank. I think that Titan Tank might be adaptable. :)

[savagepicco26]

I said Savage size (ie 180cc+) not the actual savage tank. i know. i was just replying in case you didn't know and were about to buy a tank to try it. just trying to help save you some headaches.

[low10s]

i tried the racers edge aluminum shock ends, and they keep backing off. i have lock tighted them with blue and even the red and they still back off. any advice before i put the plastic ones back on. thanks

[Koraxis]

I'm having problems with putting together the MBX-5!! The Rear diff will not git properly into the gear case and when i close up the gear case it will not spin easily?
Is this how it's supposed to be or is there something wrong with it?

[tharis]

I'm having problems with putting together the MBX-5!! The Rear diff will not git properly into the gear case and when i close up the gear case it will not spin easily?
Is this how it's supposed to be or is there something wrong with it?

there are 4 o-rings in kit bag A. Put them (2 front 2 rear) in order to make a good clearance for the gears and so to spin freely. It is not mensioned in the manual. Also try to screw the case on the chassis first. It may spin better after that

[consistent]

Does anyone know if anything else is needed to run a digital servo or does it plug right into the receiver like any other servo. I read the article in rc car action about analog and digital servos but the article did not say if anything else is needed to run these servos.

[tharis]

Does anyone know if anything else is needed to run a digital servo or does it plug right into the receiver like any other servo. I read the article in rc car action about analog and digital servos but the article did not say if anything else is needed to run these servos.

Just put them on your receiver. Digital servos works with every receiver.
Be careful with analog servos that does not work with HRS receivers ;)

[KyoshoKev]

I'm having problems with putting together the MBX-5!! The Rear diff will not git properly into the gear case and when i close up the gear case it will not spin easily?
Is this how it's supposed to be or is there something wrong with it?

when the bulkehead is new the diff wont mesh with the bevel gear properly when the screws are screwed down tight... it needs to be run in a few tanks then u can tighten the bulkhead

[view002]

are these drive shaft(front/rear/center) have differnece?

i have a MBX5 and my friend has one also
and i find a differnece for drive shafts both MBX5
my one is thin than the other one 0.5mm Diameter

they are 2 kind of shaft?

and also option part for 5mm front shock tower
they are slightly difference looking
one is flat surface around upper hinge pin area
and the other one has milled that area

mugan made 2kind of option front shock tower?

[savagepicco26]

yes and yes

[view002]

yes and yes


hey thanks savagepicco26 and then
which one is new?

[savagepicco26]

the thicker of both. i think the new shaft is a 3mm and it's only for the front,center portion. the thicker shock towers are better too. they come with the prospec kit, but are available as an upgrade for the standard kit. they're worth the money.

[view002]

the thicker of both. i think the new shaft is a 3mm and it's only for the front,center portion. the thicker shock towers are better too. they come with the prospec kit, but are available as an upgrade for the standard kit. they're worth the money.


thank you for quick reply savagepicco26:)

[KansasCajun]

Just following up, that Titan tank (250cc) will not fit.

Hey, jaymoenzo, you got pics of that Violator tank in the mugen? I'd like to see that.

[toughtrax1]

Hey guys I just have one question. If I just got the prospec and this was going to be my first real 1/8th scale (Previous ofna ultra owner) would I be good to go? Also is there a index of all the different things that people did to inprove there buggy or is it just these? Thanks for any help

[Koraxis]

What servo is everyone running? I'm thinking of getting the Futaba S9350 Servo?

[Koraxis]

What are the differneces between the Prospec and the non prospec versions?

[savagepicco26]

What servo is everyone running? I'm thinking of getting the Futaba S9350 Servo?
airtronics 94358 for both throttle and steering

[savagepicco26]

What are the differneces between the Prospec and the non prospec versions?
shock towers, suspension arms, uprights, motor mount, fuel tank, ball links, tie rods, chassis braces, body, brace mount, and probably a couple others i'm forgetting.

[savagepicco26]

Hey guys I just have one question. If I just got the prospec and this was going to be my first real 1/8th scale (Previous ofna ultra owner) would I be good to go? Also is there a index of all the different things that people did to inprove there buggy or is it just these? Thanks for any help
prospec out of the box doesn't need any upgrades IMO. it's a champion already. just gotta learn to drive like one. you'll never need to upgrade (not like buying an RTR and then needing a competition level buggy)

[toughtrax1]

Thanks Savagepicco26, now what about useing the reg mbx5 and putting on the MSR conversion rather then useing the prospec. My plan is to buy the prospec and run it as the buggy and buy the mbx5 and convert it to a truggy.

[Nutter]

toughtrax1:Hey guys I just have one question. If I just got the prospec and this was going to be my first real 1/8th scale (Previous ofna ultra owner) would I be good to go? Also is there a index of all the different things that people did to inprove there buggy or is it just these? Thanks for any helpDon't forget that the Prospec is a kit - you still need to purchase radio gear, servos, engine, starter box, etc separately. All I've upgraded so far was the radio tray mounts to Mugens aluminium ones, as the stock plastic ones have a little too much flex for my liking when heavy brakes are applied.

Koraxis:What servo is everyone running? I'm thinking of getting the Futaba S9350 Servo?I run an Airtronics 94358 for steering and a Hitec HS-5925MG for throttle/brake. The 5925 is a bit too fast for the throttle/brake however, and can really SLAM the carb open/closed (not good for the carb) - so I'll probably tune some of the speed out soon on my radio.

[SN VipeR]

and can really SLAM the carb open/closed (not good for the carb).

Ever heard of end point adjustment? If it pulls or pushes the engine around, slowing it down won't help.
A servo can't be fast enough for me. :)

I run 2 Sanwa ERG-VX on my Prospec. And on the other one I have a Hitec 5945 for Steering and a 5975 for throttle/brake.

[savagepicco26]

Thanks Savagepicco26, now what about useing the reg mbx5 and putting on the MSR conversion rather then useing the prospec. My plan is to buy the prospec and run it as the buggy and buy the mbx5 and convert it to a truggy.
i would get the prospec and convert it. most of the upgrades that the prospec has would need to be done anyway (shock towers, chassis braces) in order to handle the abuse of the larger tires. other problem would be finding an original kit as most places only sell the prospec kits now.

[savagepicco26]

I run 2 Sanwa ERG-VX on my Prospec.
translation for those not familiar........

Sanwa ERG-VX = Airtronics 94359

Airtronics 94359 is the same as the 94358 but with a metal case and costs $20 more. performs the same as the 94358 (same speed and torque).

Sanwa ERG-VB = Airtronics 94358
Sanwa ERG-VR = Airtronics 94357

94357 is slightly faster than the 94358, but has a lot less torque. the 94358/9 has more than enough speed(0.10sec) and plenty of torque (200oz)
94357 and 94360 have 125oz at 0.07sec.

[Nutter]

Ever heard of end point adjustment? If it pulls or pushes the engine around, slowing it down won't help.
A servo can't be fast enough for me. :)

I run 2 Sanwa ERG-VX on my Prospec. And on the other one I have a Hitec 5945 for Steering and a 5975 for throttle/brake.
It's not the end points. ;) The slamming sound I'm talking about is when going from throttle to brake quickly - at neutral when the carb fully closes, there's a nasty metal clang. Unfortunately nothing other than being smoother on the throttle/brake, or a slower servo will help that (I'm trying the smoother approach).

It wasn't the engine that was being pushed/pulled around by the torque of the servos, but the radio tray (where the servos are mounted). I've just installed Mugens "aluminium radio plate post" and "aluminium radio post mount", and the problem's completely gone. :)

[low10s]

at www.mbx5parts.com, does the washer kit they sell come with the ones for the motor mounts at the bottom

[savagepicco26]

at www.mbx5parts.com, does the washer kit they sell come with the ones for the motor mounts at the bottom
i don't think so. which kit are you specifically talking about? part number?

[savagepicco26]

It's not the end points. ;) The slamming sound I'm talking about is when going from throttle to brake quickly - at neutral when the carb fully closes, there's a nasty metal clang. Unfortunately nothing other than being smoother on the throttle/brake, or a slower servo will help that (I'm trying the smoother approach).if it's "clangging" shut, then you don't have your neutral point set right. you need to either adjust your trim, or adjust the linkage. IT SHOULD NOT DO THAT!

It wasn't the engine that was being pushed/pulled around by the torque of the servos, but the radio tray (where the servos are mounted). I've just installed Mugens "aluminium radio plate post" and "aluminium radio post mount", and the problem's completely gone. :)
ummmm.....again, you don't have it adjusted right. i don't use the alluminum post and my tray doesn't move. IT SHOULDN'T! if your tray moved in the first place, then the end point was off on the full throttle end and/or the neutral point was off on the idle end. i have seen exactly what you are describing in both scenarios and it was IMPROPER SERVO ADJUSTMENTS that caused the problem whether on the radio or linkages. don't fix the problem with "smooth driving" or an alluminum post. you're asking for long term problems. you could put a servo in there that's twice as fast as what you've got and if it's properly adjusted on the radio and the linkages, the radio tray won't move and the carb won't "clang". you need to readjust things.

[savagepicco26]

Hitec HS-5925MG for throttle/brake. The 5925 is a bit too fast for the throttle/brake however, and can really SLAM the carb open/closed (not good for the carb) - so I'll probably tune some of the speed out soon on my radio.
the 5925 is a tad slower than the Airtronics 94357. i know of several people that run the 94357 servo without slamming the carb around or torqueing the radio tray. your trim, end points, and or linkages are not adjusted right.

[low10s]

pn mugc0114. it is a washer kit.

[savagepicco26]

pn mugc0114. it is a washer kit.
no it doesn't. that kit is mainly for the MST-1.

[Nutter]

if it's "clangging" shut, then you don't have your neutral point set right. you need to either adjust your trim, or adjust the linkage. IT SHOULD NOT DO THAT!
Adjusting the neutral point, trim, or linkage will have no effect on this - like I said, the clang is when going quickly from throttle to brake; that is, past neutral at high speed. Perhaps your carb is different so it doesn't make the same noise. :)

ummmm.....again, you don't have it adjusted right. i don't use the alluminum post and my tray doesn't move. IT SHOULDN'T! if your tray moved in the first place, then the end point was off on the full throttle end and/or the neutral point was off on the idle end. i have seen exactly what you are describing in both scenarios and it was IMPROPER SERVO ADJUSTMENTS that caused the problem whether on the radio or linkages. don't fix the problem with "smooth driving" or an alluminum post. you're asking for long term problems. you could put a servo in there that's twice as fast as what you've got and if it's properly adjusted on the radio and the linkages, the radio tray won't move and the carb won't "clang". you need to readjust things.
In this case, yes it is my end point - while I could easily have just turned it down so I didn't get the flexing in the radio tray mounts, that means I'm not getting the maximum possible brakes. Now I can have my end point set at as I want and have it transferred to the brakes not radio tray mounts. I don't mean set so far beyond the maximum servo travel that it'll kill the servo, just far enough that I'll use the servo/brakes to their maximum potential.

[savagepicco26]

Adjusting the neutral point, trim, or linkage will have no effect on this - like I said, the clang is when going quickly from throttle to brake; that is, past neutral at high speed. Perhaps your carb is different so it doesn't make the same noise. :)
maybe something in the carb is out of alignment or something? how much pressure is on the spring on the throttle linkage? i've got my collar all the way against the ball cup on the carb. basically, it's a decompressed as possible. maybe your spring is putting too much tension on the carb and the spring's not absorbing the shock enough as it should? :confused: just throwing out ideas here... :)
In this case, yes it is my end point - while I could easily have just turned it down so I didn't get the flexing in the radio tray mounts, that means I'm not getting the maximum possible brakes. Now I can have my end point set at as I want and have it transferred to the brakes not radio tray mounts. I don't mean set so far beyond the maximum servo travel that it'll kill the servo, just far enough that I'll use the servo/brakes to their maximum potential.
you can do that without flexing the tray. i can get my wheels to lock up without flexing the tray. that's pretty much maximum potential. as long as you know what you're doing, then go for it. i still think you can acheive your desired results without jeopardizing the servos or the structure of the car.

[Nutter]

maybe something in the carb is out of alignment or something? how much pressure is on the spring on the throttle linkage? i've got my collar all the way against the ball cup on the carb. basically, it's a decompressed as possible. maybe your spring is putting too much tension on the carb and the spring's not absorbing the shock enough as it should? :confused: just throwing out ideas here... :)
I actually tried removing the collar to reduce the tension in the spring even further, incase that helped - but it didn't. I think I'll pull apart the carb tonight, as you never know there may be something left over in there from manufacturing. I have to pull the engine out anyway to rebuild the clutch (ok, ok.. more to play with my new Sportwerks clutch spring tool, but it still counts :p).

you can do that without flexing the tray. i can get my wheels to lock up without flexing the tray. that's pretty much maximum potential. as long as you know what you're doing, then go for it. i still think you can acheive your desired results without jeopardizing the servos or the structure of the car.
It's a 128oz/in servo - I like the idea of having as much of that on hand as possible. I have my EX-10 Helios set up so that one of the thumb buttons dials out brakes, so I can reduce/restore it while racing should I need it for some reason. Perhaps it's just a fad thing, and I'll dial it down most of the time anyway. :)

[mscjakes]

will a mbx-5 shock tower fit on a mbx-4????

Jake

[mbx5]

hello guys


where can I get parts for MBX-5 online? paypal preferred :confused:

[mscjakes]

i think nitrohouse.com has mbx-5 parts and they accept paypal

[mbx5]

i think there's another one called something ace hobbies?

[savagepicco26]

hello guys


where can I get parts for MBX-5 online? paypal preferred :confused:
www.carolinasrc.com cheaper than nitrohouse.

[low10s]

acehardwarehobbies is good, so is hobbyguyrc.com. i deal with mbx5parts.com religously, quick and easy.

[PitStops]

try www.amainhobbies.com or www.hopupplanet.com

[jmangler1]

Hey guys, does anyone know how much longer the MSR truggy chassis is than the regular prospec chassis???

[nitrohouse]

No the shock towers are completely different from the XR to the MBX5

I do, its right at 1.75 inches longer.

Have Fun...Burn Nitro...

[savagepicco26]

acehardwarehobbies is good, so is hobbyguyrc.com. i deal with mbx5parts.com religously, quick and easy.
www.mbx5parts.com is now www.carolinasrc.com same great place, just changed names cause they deal with much more than just the mbx5 now.

[mbxed]

Does anyone make some kind of hop up for the front hinge pin bushing?
ed

[savagepicco26]

Does anyone make some kind of hop up for the front hinge pin bushing?
ed
brass bushings from www.carolinasrc.com i run them for a year or more before they start getting slightly loose. here's the whole set:
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=690
or you can get just the lowers individually:
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=689
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=688

[nitrohouse]

Ed,
Contact King Headz, they use bronze bushings in there shock towers, maybe they can hook you up. If nothing else there stuff is really strong and IMO some of the best looking products out there...Talk to Chris, or Jim. Both are super guys, and really know there stuff...

[mbxed]

I havent bought any of them yet. Do these brass bushings eat up the other parts? I dont want to trade one problem for another.
ed

[nitrohouse]

I don't think you will increase the wear by enough to matter...So just see if they can set you up and go from there. Make sure and tell them(KingHeadz) that Nitrohouse sent you...

[savagepicco26]

I havent bought any of them yet. Do these brass bushings eat up the other parts? I dont want to trade one problem for another.
ed
i have the 5mm mugen shock towers and the 4mm bottom hinge braces (same parts that come with the prospec) i've had 2 sets of brass bushings in them and they're still tight when i put new bushings in. i think the brass is a little softer than the alluminum, so the brass will wear, not the alluminum. that has been my experience as well as everyone i know of that runs them.

[low10s]

i consider myself lucky i guess. my bushings have not worn out yet, still tight, had the buggy about 6 months or so.

[savagepicco26]

i consider myself lucky i guess. my bushings have not worn out yet, still tight, had the buggy about 6 months or so.
been sitting on the shelf or what? ;)

[low10s]

LOL, no i may not drive mine as hard, i stay on 4 wheels alot. i have just starting getting in the a mains. but no bushing problems so far.

[view002]

hello
i have a X5 and have a plan that add option for my X5
and i concern about next model
if when i added a lots of options and mugen release next buggy(X6)
i should feeling blue looking my X5

is that fine to add options?
how do you guys think about that?

[PitStops]

I don't thin kyou will be seeing a new version anytime soon. Of course you never know for sure, but even if they do release a new version there is no reason why you cannot run the X5 still.

[savagepicco26]

good info on diff fluids in case you guys wanted to know. (i didn't write it)

EVRYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK


Front Thinner
· increases steering into corners (off-power)
· if oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent,especially it can lose forward traction (and steering) during acceleration out of corners

Front Thicker
· increases stability into corners during braking
· increases steering on-power at corner exit

Center Thinner
· front wheels unload more during acceleration
· decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
· easier to drive on rough tracks
· if a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center differential because it “overloads”

Center Thicker
· more all-wheel drive effect
· better acceleration
· increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
· better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
· car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle

Rear Thinner
· increases cornering traction
· increases steering into corner

Rear Thicker
· decreases rear traction while cornering
· reduces wheelspin

[savagepicco26]

diff info comes from the XB8 instruction manual.

[Blacktiger]

All sorts of good info in that manual.

[savagepicco26]

yep. mugen should take a hint. ;)

[Blacktiger]

No doubt. I love my mugen but the manual could be alot better.

[mbxed]

I raced my X5 tonight :) . It performed flawlessly :) . I qualified for the A main :) and finished 7th :mad: . Lost tire after about ten laps :confused: . Changed tires for the main and left front tire nut loose :mad: .If it aint broke dont fix it :rolleyes: . I lost an e clip and the hinge pin fell out again :( . Fortunatly it was during early practice :) . I will be getting the brass bushings and a full set of lock nut hinge pins before the next race :D . OS V spec was hard to tune tonight :confused: . After I got it tuned it ran perfect :cool: . I think the humidity was way high . We have a storm in the Gulf of Mexico :mad: . Engine temp was around 240, up to about 270 at end of runs. Air temp was around 90. All in all it was a good day :) .
ed

[SN VipeR]

Hey guys,

here's my video of the fourth 1/8th buggy Swiss championship race (driving a Mugen of course). You'll find it as always on my Page: www.snviper.ch.vu . Just click the first news entry and you're there.

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/retaliation.jpg (http://www.snviper.ch.vu)

Enjoy! I'm looking forward to hearing your comments.

[Blacktiger]

Great video. I enjoyed watching it.

[SN VipeR]

Thanks very much! This weekend we'll have our next race and I hope I can make another video. If the track this year is like last year's one, it'll have huge jumps. :)

[TRAXXAS13579]

I am going to race my x5 on saturday. I have a 8-port raceing engine, JR XS3, Prospec parts, and crimefighters. My Raceway is one of the raceways in the 2005 RC Pro Sereis West. It is located in canby oregon.

[low10s]

i have heard good and bad about the brass bushing inserts. does anyone have any long term testing done to say if they are worth it. thanks

[savagepicco26]

i have heard good and bad about the brass bushing inserts. does anyone have any long term testing done to say if they are worth it. thanks
does a year count? i ran them for a year before changing them. they were only slightly loose at that point also. they didn't damage any of the hinge pin mounts or shock towers either.

[low10s]

thanks a bunch. i have ordered some. thanks again.

[mbxed]

I used the brass bushings from carolinasrc and mugen hinge pins with the locking nuts. I raced with them 2 weeks ago. I broke the left and right hinge pin in seperate accidents. The bushings didnt deform at all. The wrecks broke the chassis pins off the lower rear tie brace, bent the shock caps, tweeked the chassis, and bent the front plate.
I bought the lower front and rear tie plate from king headz (kingheadz.com) to try this week. They do not use the bushings.The guy at king headz said if I break them he will replace them for free. I also bought the hardened hinge pins from racers edge. If hurricane rita allows we will race this weekend I'll let you all know how the new parts worked.
ed

[savagepicco26]

I used the brass bushings from carolinasrc and mugen hinge pins with the locking nuts. I raced with them 2 weeks ago. I broke the left and right hinge pin in seperate accidents. The bushings didnt deform at all. The wrecks broke the chassis pins off the lower rear tie brace, bent the shock caps, tweeked the chassis, and bent the front plate.
I bought the lower front and rear tie plate from king headz (kingheadz.com) to try this week. They do not use the bushings.The guy at king headz said if I break them he will replace them for free. I also bought the hardened hinge pins from racers edge. If hurricane rita allows we will race this weekend I'll let you all know how the new parts worked.
ed
wow, those must have been some hard licks. the kfactory hardened pins are supposed to be good. i ran the stock mugen pins and never damaged them in any way, even with the brass. let us know how you like the new plates.

[low10s]

for real that was a hard lick. i just ordered the eck tec upper pin holder to replace the plastic. i may upgrade later to the other lower hinge braces. so far the mugen has been all the buggy and more. real tough and the handle stays the same the entire race talk about consistant.

[jtlittle]

Go back to the plastic bushing and you will see much less breakage and a better handling car.

[mbxed]

We have a double to a table top. On the table top is a piece of 3/4" plywood that keeps you from going into the crowed. I hit that plywood once and hit a pvc pipe that is buried in the ground to hold the rest of the pipes in place. Our track is narrow, hard packed sand and clay.
ed

[savagepicco26]

Go back to the plastic bushing and you will see much less breakage and a better handling car.
i disagree. unless you change the bushings every 2 races, the performance goes way down. they're a pain to change too. i don't see how they cause more breakage. the way he hit stuff, he'd have broken something with or without the brass bushings. i don't see the correlation.

[mbxed]

i disagree. unless you change the bushings every 2 races, the performance goes way down. they're a pain to change too. i don't see how they cause more breakage. the way he hit stuff, he'd have broken something with or without the brass bushings. i don't see the correlation.

I dont think the brass bushing's had anything to do with what broke. With the hits it took something was going to break. The brass bushings are better than the plastic ones. I ran tonight with the king headz stuff and had no issues. Nothing came loose. I will take it appart this week and look for wear. I like the king headz rear tie because the pins that stick into the chassis are alluminum.
I ran 4 practice tanks and one qualifier before the rain came (rita). I finished first in the qualifier. The track was mud and had puddles before we finished the first qualifier. The radio box stayed fairly dry.
ed

[low10s]

i installed the brass bushings, fit very well. no slop what so ever.

[lazydel]

Does anyone know if a 777 body will fit well on an MBx5? I just recently built one and... Uugghh I just hate the mugen bodies. Does anyone else feel this way.

[SN VipeR]

I'd say no since almost every car needs its own unique body. And by the way you don't have to build yours, you can buy them already molded. ;)

Honestly though, what's the problem? I like the stock Mugen shell much better than a crowt pleazer or especially that thing that they put on the 777s so they don't get too dirty.
Nice painting though!! How do you make those letters so good?

Oh yeah and in case you didn't already know. Proline makes bodies too for all kinds of cars, including the MBX5. www.prolineracing.com
And there's also a company called Jconcepts that makes Illuzion bodies. They're all sort of warped to look better. http://www.jconcepts.net/

[lazydel]

How do you make those letters so good?




That was a pain in the you know what, I used liquied paint mask and a template for the mugen everything else is free hand I kinda got impatient.

[savagepicco26]

Uugghh I just hate the mugen bodies. Does anyone else feel this way.
no. i like them. i don't think the 777 will fit. dimensions are different.

[Josh_C]

Hey everyone.
I recently bought a prospec kit, my first mugen. Wondering If you use the blue shock springs or the standard. The blue are stiffer aren't they?

By the way, I had troubles putting the big bolts in the front up rights to hold the balls in place. Anyone else have this trouble?

[Josh_C]

Just realised the light blues are soft. I see a lot of people using them.

[SN VipeR]

Yeah they are. Our national champion, also a Mugen driver, often uses the blue ones in
at the rear and the grey ones in front. I've even seen him use the white ones (hard) in front and the blue ones at the rear.
I've always used only one color, but this weekend I'll try out the blue ones rear with the front grey ones.

[mbxed]

I used to change the color of my springs all the time. That way no body new what spring I was running. I just wrapped all my fuel tubing with allminum foil to see how long it would take for people to start doing that. At our track we all run pretty close, so any mind game you can play with your friends is fun. I change head's on my engines just to keep em guessing.
ed

[low10s]

i have run the blue ones the last couple of races, they FEEL not as soft as the grey, as i did one less small spacer to have the same ride height. but i like the blue ones.

[mbxed]

Raced tonight. I missed the first qualifier. My starter box crapped out just before the start, and my bug wouldn't fit anybody else's. Turned 18 laps in the second qualifier, that was TQ for the B-main. Ran a personnel best 20 laps to win the B-main and bumped up to a-main. I ran 19 laps in the a-main finished 4th. The X5 ran pretty good tonight, I changed the setup a little this week. I ran it with front a little higher than the rear and the chassis level. It didn't jump real good with that setup. That made it fly with the nose real high. I will put it back to arms level. I broke a shock shaft during practice doing about 10 cartwheels down the front stretch. I also changed the brake pads from the blue material to the black material. The brakes were pretty good, but I had to much front dialed in and it was sliding the front end every once in a while. The king headz front end pieces and racers edge hinge pins worked great. I have had no issues with them since I installed them.
ed

[Josh_C]

How do you put the big nuts into the front uprights (hubs) without stuffing up the thread. I had real issues.

[savagepicco26]

How do you put the big nuts into the front uprights (hubs) without stuffing up the thread. I had real issues.
just got to make sure they're straight the whole time. go real slow till they're going in good.

[mbxed]

How do you adjust the position of the engine front to back? My clutch is as close to the engine as it can get and it is still to far forward. The clutch and the spur gear only engage on the edges. The clutch almost touches the fuel tank.
Thanks
ed

[Josh_C]

Adjust the clutch back and forth with the shims. Sounds like you have too many.

[savagepicco26]

How do you adjust the position of the engine front to back? My clutch is as close to the engine as it can get and it is still to far forward. The clutch and the spur gear only engage on the edges. The clutch almost touches the fuel tank.
Thanks
ed
yeah, as josh said, take out shims if you have them. especially ones underneath the flywheel.

[mbxed]

I have the thinest shim I have behind the flywheel. I have one behind the bearing in the clutch. Even if I take them all out it still doesnt move it back far enough to fully engage.
ed

[SN VipeR]

Hey guys I won the Swiss national championship in the amateur class (newcomer's class) with my Mugen. Came first in the last race with 3 laps to spare, the car handled great as always. There'll be a bunch of new videos as soon as I feel like editing the footage I got.

mbxed, that mind games thing is hilarious, gotta try that some time! :)

Josh C, about the nuts: it's all about alignment. Try to align them real good before screwing them in and they will go in with no problems. Can't be of anymore help though but that does the trick for me. If it's real hard to screw them in you've probably missed the thread and you'll need to try again.

low10s, Mugen says the blue ones are softer. But when I put them on the ride height was about the same. I think they could be longer than the grey ones to make up for it rideheight-wise, gotta measure the length sometime. A shame twf8 only has the grey Mugen springs listed in their spring rates measurements.

[savagepicco26]

I have the thinest shim I have behind the flywheel. I have one behind the bearing in the clutch. Even if I take them all out it still doesnt move it back far enough to fully engage.
ed
take them out as well. you don't need them apparently. what motor are you running? what motor mount?

[mbxed]

take them out as well. you don't need them apparently. what motor are you running? what motor mount?

I have run several OS 21 models RZ, RG, VZB, V-spec, and a VZR. They all sit way forward. I have even ground down the 3 pegs for the clutch shoes, to move the bell closer to the flywheel. I have a friend who just got one off
e-bay and it has a rub mark on the fuel tank from the clutch nut.
ed

[savagepicco26]

I have run several OS 21 models RZ, RG, VZB, V-spec, and a VZR. They all sit way forward. I have even ground down the 3 pegs for the clutch shoes, to move the bell closer to the flywheel. I have a friend who just got one off
e-bay and it has a rub mark on the fuel tank from the clutch nut.
ed
what motor mount are you running? i ran an RZ in mine without any problems. i know people that run RG's, VZB's and v-spec's without the rubbing or misalignment that you're talking about. you've got something mixed up.

[mbxed]

I have the 2 piece standard mbx5 mount not the 1 piece prospec. What motor mount are you guy's using? 1 piece? 2 piece? Is there a direction the 2 piece should go?
ed

[savagepicco26]

I have the 2 piece standard mbx5 mount not the 1 piece prospec. What motor mount are you guy's using? 1 piece? 2 piece? Is there a direction the 2 piece should go?
ed
i ran the 2 piece. i don't know if there's a difference, but it would be worth a try to flip them around. looking at the manual, it doesn't appear to matter though. maybe post a pic so we can see?

[dolphinchamp32]

whats the best 1/8 scale indestructible buggy and pretty fast but race worthy?

[SN VipeR]

What kind of answers do you expect in the Mugen MBX5 thread?

[2Fast2Fury]

What kind of answers do you expect in the Mugen MBX5 thread?

LOL!

[pyroracing]

Hi Mugen Fans!

Just thought I introduce you guys-n-gals to or new line of CFX Carbon Fiber eXtreme parts.

We're just building steam, and there are lots of parts in various stages of development/production. We put a lot of sweat and blood into bring these parts to the race fanatics out there. Keep checking back.

Our photo section shows the parts installed, and they are BLINGIN' and TOUGH!

Hope you like them..

stu
pyroracing.com (http://www.pyroracing.com)

[SN VipeR]

Looks nice, but you're going in a really different direction with the shock mounting holes than Mugen or the other hop-up manufacturers. They're much more angled it seems. May I ask why?
Will you also make the aluminium "casing" of the carbon fiber in different colors?

[pyroracing]

Thanks for checking out our site.
Some of the Shock Mounting holes are very close the the factory ones, the others are just to give you a few more adjustment options.

We probably will offer different color Aluminum Cages, once we get a feel for the colors people want.

Please add your vote to the color poll here: Pyro Polls (http://www.pyroracing.com/V2/polls.php)

Race On!
Stu
pyroracing.com (http://www.pyroracing.com)

[low10s]

looks pretty nice. let us know how tough they are in the future.

[savagepicco26]

Hi Mugen Fans!

Just thought I introduce you guys-n-gals to or new line of CFX Carbon Fiber eXtreme parts.

We're just building steam, and there are lots of parts in various stages of development/production. We put a lot of sweat and blood into bring these parts to the race fanatics out there. Keep checking back.

Our photo section shows the parts installed, and they are BLINGIN' and TOUGH!

Hope you like them..

stu
pyroracing.com (http://www.pyroracing.com)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/speed_bump/smiles/nospam.gif

[tharis]

Hi guys! I was thinking which would be the best clutch to use that will not wear off fast and that will not have something to break or because of the wear to make damage.

I was thinking of a centax type clutch (from 1/10 touring) like SPM or Team Orion clutch.

What cluch do you use (for racing conditions that you want performance and durability)?

PS sorry for my english

Haris

[SN VipeR]

It's actually the Speed 3 from RMV. Check the review here: http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/options/rmv/speed3/speed3.html

A friend of mine is testing that clutch right now. After about 5 gallons he has almost zero wear on the carbon shoes. We even used it in an endurance race where our car was about 7kilos heavy because of mud and it performed great. He just replaced the spring. They wore off because they are on the moving part of the clutch and grab on the nut that holds the clutch on the crankshaft, that's all.
You can get one from www.carolinasrc.com

[savagepicco26]

Hi guys! I was thinking which would be the best clutch to use that will not wear off fast and that will not have something to break or because of the wear to make damage.

I was thinking of a centax type clutch (from 1/10 touring) like SPM or Team Orion clutch.

What cluch do you use (for racing conditions that you want performance and durability)?

PS sorry for my english

Haris
i run the mugen alluminum shoes and the mugen 1.1 springs. for performance, i think they're the best. less slipping than carbon or teflon shoes. i probably get 1-2 gallons out of a set of shoes. that's good enough for me.

[tharis]

what engine do you use?

I can run about 1/2 gallon (1 maximum) with a set.
Also if you dont see it and change it early the springs damage the bell.

I prefer to give some more money for something that will last 4-5 gallons with no problem.

[tharis]

It's actually the Speed 3 from RMV. Check the review here: http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/options/rmv/speed3/speed3.html

A friend of mine is testing that clutch right now. After about 5 gallons he has almost zero wear on the carbon shoes. We even used it in an endurance race where our car was about 7kilos heavy because of mud and it performed great. He just replaced the spring. They wore off because they are on the moving part of the clutch and grab on the nut that holds the clutch on the crankshaft, that's all.
You can get one from www.carolinasrc.com

My team manager use this clutch but it catch the bell in very high rpm and slips all over the throtle. Another team mate was using the speed II but he was losing the screws all the time. Then he bought the speed 2,5 and because of the slip he destroied the shoes in 4-5 tanks and broke a spring. (Maybe it was his fault). Now he is using it with mugen shoes and springs.

I was using an older version of speed II (without the 2 screws that stops the screws with the springs) but i destroied it in a race with tones of mud. I think i will repair it but i was thinking if a centax type clucth will work better.

Anyone use something like that?

[SN VipeR]

Are you sure he's using the Speed 3? With the springs and shoes provided? This clutch should be virtually slip-free and as far as I've seen it is. Maybe he has grease or oil inside the clutch bell from the bearings. Carbon shoes are very sensitive about that.

[savagepicco26]

what engine do you use?

I can run about 1/2 gallon (1 maximum) with a set.
Also if you dont see it and change it early the springs damage the bell.

I prefer to give some more money for something that will last 4-5 gallons with no problem.
RB S7. i haven't had any clutchbell problems. ran the same clutchbell for almost 4 gallons.

[low10s]

i have a prob with the shock cap bushings wearng fast. i have to replace them after everyrace because of the slack, any ideas. thanks

[savagepicco26]

i have a prob with the shock cap bushings wearng fast. i have to replace them after everyrace because of the slack, any ideas. thanks
no, they're kind of designed that way so the shock cap mount hole doesn't get stretched out (happened to me). what springs, shock pistons, and shock oil are you running?

[low10s]

i was told that my droop screws needed to be adjusted, i was at full droop. going to try it soon. right now i am running blue springs, stock piston, and 35wt in back. i have been looking at those new shocks from www.kmwracing.com. but not sure yet but i am getting tired of the shock clips.

[savagepicco26]

i was told that my droop screws needed to be adjusted, i was at full droop. going to try it soon. right now i am running blue springs, stock piston, and 35wt in back. i have been looking at those new shocks from www.kmwracing.com. but not sure yet but i am getting tired of the shock clips.
full droop meaning high ride height or low? what weight oil in the front?

[savagepicco26]

i have been looking at those new shocks from www.kmwracing.com. but not sure yet but i am getting tired of the shock clips.
$90 for just the bodies? NO THANK YOU!!!! threaded shocks make sense in on road applications cause there is a need for a high level of precision. in off road applications, the difference in a .25mm change in ride height is not going to be noticed. especially where there's a certain amount of slop in the suspension anyway. i have threaded shocks on my savage and i hate them. they are a pain to adjust unless they're spotless. the slightest bit of dirt on the threads make them a serious pain to adjust.

[low10s]

i just got the hudy setup system, man was my buggy out of wack LOL. i am going to get the droop gauge and some more things to really get-r-done. yea i did not even have the screws touching the chassis when off the ground, causing alot of excess wear on the bushings.

[TBone77]

Hey guys... thinking about an MBX5. Just out of curiosity, how's the steering on this boy?

[SN VipeR]

I think the steering is great, especially with the new parts that give more steering lock, it really grabs and bites into those corners. Check the videos on my page www.snviper.ch.vu to see how mine handles. :)

[low10s]

i always here how a kyosho777 will turn inside of anything, well i have no problem turning on the inside of them at all. the best buggy i have ever had, no probs at all.

[mbxed]

Have any of you broken shock shafts? I have broken 3 fronts, and one rear. All were on hard suspenction hits on solid objects. Are there any better one's?

[low10s]

dont know have not broken anything on mine.

[savagepicco26]

Have any of you broken shock shafts? I have broken 3 fronts, and one rear. All were on hard suspenction hits on solid objects. Are there any better one's?
never broke a shaft either. what shock oil, springs, and pistons were you running?

[mbxed]

never broke a shaft either. what shock oil, springs, and pistons were you running?

I run grey springs, 350 oil And what ever is the standard piston. Why would you think any of that would make a difference?

[SN VipeR]

I've broken and bent a few shock shafts too. Perfect solution: Don't hit stuff. ;)

There are no better ones, but if there were, something else would break or bend. The impact energy has to go somewhere.

[savagepicco26]

I run grey springs, 350 oil And what ever is the standard piston. Why would you think any of that would make a difference?
if you were running a very stiff and aggressive shock package, then it could cause the shafts to break/bend before the shock could do its job of absorbing the impact.

[stav2]

Just got it brand new and it looks sweet. Have a Wasp .26 Im gunna drop in it. Basical stock besides that. JR Radio system, airtronics servo's 1 is a 94358Z.

Figured i'd ask the experts on any tips you may have or pointers and better yet MUST do mods or upgrades, money isnt an issue

Thanks guys

Stav

[low10s]

me at first i would run it stock, settings and everything even diff oils and see how you like it, really it is rock solid as it is. after that the only thing maybe would be the chassis braces, get the prospec ones and that is it. the stock ones get alot of slop after a while.

[stav2]

here anything about the Wasp .26 engine?

Wonder if anyone has any history with it

Stav

[SN VipeR]

Hey everyone,
here's my latest video, from our last championship race. It contains footage from my race, the amateur final, and the expert final. There are lots of fights and crazy jumps in there.
You'll find it, as usual, on my page: www.snviper.ch.vu , just click on the first news entry and you're there.
I'm looking forward to reading your comments, enjoy!

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/champion.jpg (http://www.snviper.ch.vu)

[tharis]

Just got it brand new and it looks sweet. Have a Wasp .26 Im gunna drop in it. Basical stock besides that. JR Radio system, airtronics servo's 1 is a 94358Z.

Figured i'd ask the experts on any tips you may have or pointers and better yet MUST do mods or upgrades, money isnt an issue

Thanks guys

Stav

It is good to buy an optional front shock tower. Also buy some more ball bearings for the clutch. I dont think you need optional chassis braces.
You can also buy a front torsen diff (it depends from the track you running.

[low10s]

torsen diff here, if you are in the U.S. save your money on that item. look at someones with the stock chassis braces, and one with upgraded ones and look at the amount of flex. but alot of people like alot of flex.

[Josh_C]

Do any of you guys run the shims on the diffs?

[low10s]

depends on if the diff gears have slack in them. i run one shim on the back and thats it.

[Blacktiger]

Run the diffs without the shims untill they feel smooth after a while. Then open the diffs up, check the slack and if need be shim them. My MBX5 has a full season on it now and my diffs are still real smooth. No shims. The X5's diffs are known for lasting a LONG time.

[KMWRacing]

$90 for just the bodies? NO THANK YOU!!!! threaded shocks make sense in on road applications cause there is a need for a high level of precision. in off road applications, the difference in a .25mm change in ride height is not going to be noticed. especially where there's a certain amount of slop in the suspension anyway. i have threaded shocks on my savage and i hate them. they are a pain to adjust unless they're spotless. the slightest bit of dirt on the threads make them a serious pain to adjust.

Hey guys,

The biggest benefit from our shocks is that they are extremely durable. There is no plastic in them. The bodies are 7075 aluminum, the pistons are silicon bronze, and the bottom of the shocks have been redesigned to use one bearing bronze bushing with two o-rings. We have been running the same set since February and haven't worn out any parts yet. I know that they have over 20 gallons of run time on them. We have replaced the o-rings twice for good measure and we change the oil every once in a while but that's it. We checked this set the other day and they are still within machining tolerances. Check us out if you wan't to know more or are interested. Thanks. ;) www.kmwracing.com (http://www.kmwracing.com)

[SN VipeR]

If you bend a shock shaft, you can still finish the race with plastic bushings as they deform and allow the shock to work more or less. But what about the bronze bushings? Have you ever tested that?
I think the shock would lock up and make the car undriveable.

It's also interesting that you don't comment on the thread issue. There is, as savagepicco26 pointed out, a reason why none of the premium buggy manufacturers make threaded shocks.

[KMWRacing]

If you bend a shock shaft, you can still finish the race with plastic bushings as they deform and allow the shock to work more or less. But what about the bronze bushings? Have you ever tested that?
I think the shock would lock up and make the car undriveable.

It's also interesting that you don't comment on the thread issue. There is, as savagepicco26 pointed out, a reason why none of the premium buggy manufacturers make threaded shocks.


We have never had an issue with a shaft binding because of being bent. I guess that could be a possibility but it hasn't happened to me or any of the others that have been testing the shocks so far. We have been running the current set since February and we ran a set last year and haven't had it happen. As for the thread issue, we have never had a problem with it. I don't have to wipe them off or anything to make an adjustment. We keep the thread tolerances close so it pushes the dirt out of the threads instead of letting it get between the body and nut causing it to gauld up. :)

[DLF]

As long as the bodys are of high enough quality, I wouldn't think binding threads would be an issue.

I have had quite a few bent shafts in my day and never even noticed them until I rebuilt the shocks. If the shafts are stong enough, I would imagine they wouldn't bend. However, that would have one tend to believe they would break. Have you had that happen yet?

[low10s]

my set of KMW shocks will be here tomorrow and when i get to the track i will give a full report.

[low10s]

If you bend a shock shaft, you can still finish the race with plastic bushings as they deform and allow the shock to work more or less. But what about the bronze bushings? Have you ever tested that?
I think the shock would lock up and make the car undriveable.

It's also interesting that you don't comment on the thread issue. There is, as savagepicco26 pointed out, a reason why none of the premium buggy manufacturers make threaded shocks.
dont forget that the Jammin comes with threaded shocks

[KMWRacing]

As long as the bodys are of high enough quality, I wouldn't think binding threads would be an issue.

I have had quite a few bent shafts in my day and never even noticed them until I rebuilt the shocks. If the shafts are stong enough, I would imagine they wouldn't bend. However, that would have one tend to believe they would break. Have you had that happen yet?

I have broken one shock shaft this year and with the hit it took it needed to break. :D Other than that we haven't had any issues.

[savagepicco26]

I have broken one shock shaft this year and with the hit it took it needed to break. :D Other than that we haven't had any issues.
what about the threaded bodies? why the need on 8th scales? IMO, they're a PITA for off road.

[KMWRacing]

what about the threaded bodies? why the need on 8th scales? IMO, they're a PITA for off road.

They are quick and easy. I can make a change on the track in just a second with them. I can't stand dealing with those cheap plastic clips. :)

[low10s]

yea i have had a couple come off during a race car all out of wack LOL

[savagepicco26]

They are quick and easy. I can make a change on the track in just a second with them. I can't stand dealing with those cheap plastic clips. :)
i don't like them cause they get dirt in the threads and then the adjustment ring binds up. i've got a set of threaded alluminum shocks on my savage and they're a PITA. so i don't like threaded bodies. i like the plastic clips better. quick and easy adjustments. just pop them in or out and you're done.

[DLF]

I guess it depends on what you run on. I've used threaded shock bodies on other cars and I've never had them bind up. I would imagine it would also have to do with the tolerances they are machined at.

[Josh_C]

How trick do those new CF stoneguards by mugen look. Anyone know how much they would be going for??

[SN VipeR]

dont forget that the Jammin comes with threaded shocks

I didn't. That's why I wrote "premium". ;)

The Mugen stone guards are actually made in Switzerland by a guy I know. :cool: He sells them here for around 55$ or so. I'm also interested in the price Mugen will charge. I've already got me a set for next year's car:

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/prospec11.jpg

[Josh_C]

Looks sweet, any idea when mugen will release them?

[tharis]

Really cool

But i dont think they are lighter than plastics, right?

[SN VipeR]

They are A LOT lighter than the plastic ones. When you have them in your hand it feels like you're only holding a sheet of paper. I don't know exactly how much lighter they are, but I'll weigh them some time if I get around to. (Not in a wrenching mood right now...)

No Idea when they will hit the shops (I talked to the guy about that some months ago) but seeing that Mugen obviously got them by now I guess it won't take too long.

[low10s]

i purchased the shocks form KMW Racing, and they are nice. i will race test them tomorrow but the quality is there for sure and the build was easy also. NO binding of the spring either and also no need for the top plastic insert either so you eleminate the clips and the top piece that goes in the shock. they are smooth also, but i will give a better report tomorrow or sometimes.

[low10s]

ran them all day yesterday and they are super smooth and i love the fact that i no longer need clips. only time will tell but a full day of practice and they got better and better. the car was noticably smoother and more controlled.

[SN VipeR]

Could you, just for the sake of testing, bend a shock shaft and see what happens? ;)

[low10s]

LOL i would rather not. but if i do i will for sure post the results.

[Josh_C]

I am hearing that the CF stoneguards can interfer with the transponders.

[Key]

Most competition electric touring car chassis are based on pretty looking carbon fiber material all round. Electronics including the transponder are placed on it with zero interference/glitching.

Not sure how others may associate transponder interference when implementing carbon side guards.

-key

[low10s]

race report on the KMW shocks, outstanding. flawless after 3 days of racing.no complaints what so ever and they are really nice. we went to Texas for the gearhead Grudge match and my son took sportsman buggy with his Mugen and RB ws7II, 11 years old, he said the buggy handled better than it ever has. so not really a bad investment.

[party_wagon]

What are the performance differances between the pro spec and the standard version? Does the standard version have any weak points when it comes to durability that the pro-spec doesn't have?

[KMWRacing]

What are the performance differances between the pro spec and the standard version? Does the standard version have any weak points when it comes to durability that the pro-spec doesn't have?

Really the only differences are the hop up parts that you get...i.e. shock towers, chassis braces, aluminum rear uprights, one piece motor mount, etc. The drive train is the same so not really much of a performance upgrade except for better bracing. To me the price of the prospec is not bad though for all of the option parts that you get with it. Just my .02 cents. ;)

[party_wagon]

Just because it says hop up and it is shiny doesn't mean that it helps the car. Now, stuff that will make it lighter and stiffer is a hop up. What do these hop ups do for the car? If the car doesn't break, isn't any lighter, or isn't any stiffer then what is the purpose of buying them?

[savagepicco26]

What are the performance differances between the pro spec and the standard version? Does the standard version have any weak points when it comes to durability that the pro-spec doesn't have?
chassis braces and shock towers are 2 huge ones. regular shock towers and braces are weak. the alluminum rear hub carriers on the pro spec are nice, but not a neccessity like the thicker shock towers and CNC braces. stock towers bend easily. stock braces have ball joints that get sloppy.

[KMWRacing]

Just because it says hop up and it is shiny doesn't mean that it helps the car. Now, stuff that will make it lighter and stiffer is a hop up. What do these hop ups do for the car? If the car doesn't break, isn't any lighter, or isn't any stiffer then what is the purpose of buying them?

The hop ups are more durable and stiffen up the car. The shock towers are thicker and CNC machined, not stamped. This makes them stronger. The prospec chassis braces are much better than the regular ones that are just a turnbuckle with plastic ends. The rear hub carriers are less susceptible to wear than the stock plastic ones. They just take most of the parts that a lot of drivers would go out and buy after buying a kit and include them with the prospec for a reasonable price.

[party_wagon]

So basicly the best thing to do is pick up a basic buggy and a set of ech tech braces and chasis with a few other pieces that hit up week points?

[savagepicco26]

So basicly the best thing to do is pick up a basic buggy and a set of ech tech braces and chasis with a few other pieces that hit up week points?
problem would be finding a non pro spec buggy (with ebay and used being the exceptions) as most retailers only sell the prospec now. shock towers and chassis braces first and then the rear hub carriers and hinge pin blocks are what i'd do next.

[party_wagon]

problem would be finding a non pro spec buggy (with ebay and used being the exceptions) as most retailers only sell the prospec now. shock towers and chassis braces first and then the rear hub carriers and hinge pin blocks are what i'd do next.
Getting the normal mbx-5 wouldn't be any sort of a problem.

[Josh_C]

Just wondering if you have to use the washer behind the flywheel??? I want to bring the clutch bell back a bit. I have the smallest shim possible in place between the shoes and bearing inside the clutch without having binding on when the clutchbell is pushed against the motor. Any suggestions??

[KMWRacing]

Just wondering if you have to use the washer behind the flywheel??? I want to bring the clutch bell back a bit. I have the smallest shim possible in place between the shoes and bearing inside the clutch without having binding on when the clutchbell is pushed against the motor. Any suggestions??

You don't have to if you have enough clearance. Try mounting the flywheel without any spacers and if you can tighten the flywheel down without it hitting the crank case and have just a slight space between them then you are fine. I usually don't need one but some motors do.

[Josh_C]

You don't have to if you have enough clearance. Try mounting the flywheel without any spacers and if you can tighten the flywheel down without it hitting the crank case and have just a slight space between them then you are fine. I usually don't need one but some motors do.

I am using an RB C5BB, should this be fine?

[KMWRacing]

I am using an RB C5BB, should this be fine?

I haven't personally tried that motor. Just put the conical washer, flywheel and nut on and tighten it up and look to see if you have enough clearance. If you have a slight gap behind the flywheel, just enough so it won't rub when running, then you won't need the washer.

[low10s]

the c5 BB is excellant. i run one washer behind the flywheel and i get perfect alignment.

has anyone tried any of the chassis' from carolina rc. they have an eck tec chassis and one from k factory. mine is getting a little weak and starting to flex a bit more making the car get a little more nervous.

[EZM]

It may be old, but what is better, the rgular mbx5 or the highest end kyosho buggy wich is?

[low10s]

the mugen of course.

[EZM]

no really

[SN VipeR]

What answer were you expecting in the Mugen MBX5 Forum?
Of course the Mugen!

[KMWRacing]

I drove a Kanai II for two years and loved the car. I was one of those that swore that I wouldn't switch. That was until I drove the MBX-5. The Kyosho is a very good car and is very durable and well built but the steering and handling of the Mugen is awesome. Another factor is the price of the higher end Kyosho cars compared to the Prospec. The kit is more expensive and doesn't come with anywhere near the amount of hop ups that the prospec comes with, i.e. CNC shock towers, braces, CF center diff plate, radio tray, and much more. Hope this helps. ;)

[Key]

Not exactly, purchasing the updated front arms is an additional requirement in order to say that the MBX-5 can have excellent steering.

[KMWRacing]

Not exactly, purchasing the updated front arms is an additional requirement in order to say that the MBX-5 can have excellent steering.

That is true except when I first got my MBX-5 everyone that I new told me from the start to dremel out the front hub carriers so the pivot balls wouldn't hit when turned all the way to the left and right. When I did that it gave me about the same amount of steering as I have now with the new arms. I like having the updated arms though so you don't have to do this small modification. At least that is a cheap upgrade. :cool:

[Stalker911]

I have more than enough steering with my Mugen with out changing anything. It's an awesome car!

Just buy a ProSpec and you'll have the best that there is :D

[Key]

That is true except when I first got my MBX-5 everyone that I new told me from the start to dremel out the front hub carriers so the pivot balls wouldn't hit when turned all the way to the left and right. c

The point is changes have to be made in order to get good steering results ;)



Hands down I think the Prospec is the king of all buggies.

I am seriously considering to purchase a prospec but how would the store be able to tell if it comes with the updated arms without having to see what's in the box?

[KMWRacing]

I am seriously considering to purchase a prospec but how would the store be able to tell if it comes with the updated arms without having to see what's in the box?

That is a good question. I don't know if they could. You may wan't to get an extra set of arms just in case. You can pick them up for around $10 or $11 per set. If it comes with the new ones then at least you will have some spares.

[Key]

It's a small price to pay which I don't mind. Thanks for the good tip I appreciate this.

[low10s]

actually the non prospec handles fine, never had a prob with steering. in fact driving style has alot to do with how a buggy steers. but yes it will come with the new arms. i got a basice mbx5 about 4 months ago and it came with the prospec tank, and o degree front plate from the prospec.

[low10s]

a little update on some mugen hop ups. KMW shocks, still working perfectly a nice touch. also the Sniper two piece engine mounts are the shiznit, very quick and easy to take engine off to check clutch or whatever and gear mesh is perfect when put back on. these things along with the brass bushings are a very good investment.

[party_wagon]

There are new hubs with the new arms as well. I have heard of people who increased their endpoints by 10-15 points who made the change, even when they used the dremeled hubs in the past.

[tharis]

Which is the code of the new hubs and arms? where can I see them?

[SN VipeR]

Same part number as before. You can see them in this thread a few pages back.

[tharis]

Hmm so they are in the new kits and how could i know if i have the new hubs? When did the go out for sale?

[SN VipeR]

I don't know exactly but I've had them since June. And my (still) new prospec that I bought in July already had them.

[tharis]

i bought mine about 1 year before. I think i have the old one

[savagepicco26]

i bought mine about 1 year before. I think i have the old one
probably

[low10s]

here is a pic of the k factory chassis with Racers edge braces.

[low10s]

another

[E-MO]

that chassis is sweet
what do they go for?
i just picked this up on e-bay 340 bucks shipped

pic is kinda small it is mbx5 with prospec hop up's
looks like it is hardly used real clean

[party_wagon]

around 500-700 new. basic version around 5 and pro-spec around 7. You will still need eninge radio servos + more.

[E-MO]

i got all the good stuf to go in it
ws7 2
jammin pipe
jr 8411 steering
jr 8411 thro/brake
spektrum

[low10s]

i will tell you that the jammin may not be the pipe for this engine unless it is the JP-1. i have 2 of them and the 063 works well. the ws7II is a real strong mid to top engine, and it does have a strong bottom end also and more so if you do it right. but you will have to try and see for yourself. this is the pipe that comes with the ws7II package deal, and for a good reason.

[E-MO]

has anyone tried the li-po set up as a rx batt?
if so, can you explain in detail how to do it

[SN VipeR]

I've already got LiPo for my transmitter and three different packs for my buggy. I've only tested the transmitter one so far and its great. My Helios weighs only 570 grams now and even though I'm not weak or get tired by a heavy transmitter or something it's a treat because it feels as light as a feather.

As soon as our racing starts again I will use a 240mAh rx pack for the qualifiers and 500mAh and 750mAh packs for the finals (depending on runtime), coupled with a BEC that will limit the output to 6.7V and 5A. These packs are amazingly light and small compared to NiMH. They're all from www.vxrracing.com where you can check the exact figures and details.

[tharis]

Can anyone help me with the anti-squat? What exactly is it front and rear and how it changes the car 's handling?

[madjack]

can anyone tell me who makes this alloy front end part? (pic is from the recent race in Holland)

[madjack]

2nd shot

[freddan]

The car is sponsored by Models in motion (see wing). Searched on google and found the following info. Send and email to them and ask. If they do not know the exact part no. then they surely can provide you the drivers name -> then email the driver. Off course he wants people to use his/same gears! mbx5 + ninja engine and more.
theshop@modelsinmotion.co.uk
http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk

[SN VipeR]

M-Mod by MID Mugen make a very similar part where you can use Mugen's own plastic inserts to change the rollcenter.

[TTRS3kid]

Im having big issues with my breaks.... its hard to explain, but my breaks arent very good. I tried adjusting the breaks, but when I make it so it has more breaks, it has more drag. When I make it have less drag, i have no breaks, etc. Would someone with a good working break setup please post a picture of your break setup? (showing all linkages) Thats all im asking. I just want to look at the picture and do exactly what it looks like so I can have breaks again. Thanks!

[savagepicco26]

Im having big issues with my breaks.... its hard to explain, but my breaks arent very good. I tried adjusting the breaks, but when I make it so it has more breaks, it has more drag. When I make it have less drag, i have no breaks, etc. Would someone with a good working break setup please post a picture of your break setup? (showing all linkages) Thats all im asking. I just want to look at the picture and do exactly what it looks like so I can have breaks again. Thanks!
drag is good for brakes. that's how they work. ;)

[Nutter]

TTRS3Kid: Here you go... be warned, they're *very* high-res.. I hope you're not on dial up! http://devras.com/rc/brakes/
My brakes are strong enough to lock the wheels at full speed, though I'll likely dial it WAY out on my transmitters end points next weekend.. they're just unusably powerful right now. I'd be curious what servo you're using for your throttle/brake though, as if you're using a standard servo I wouldn't be suprised that you find it too weak. I'm using a Hitec HS-5925 (128oz/in), but as I say - it's overkill.

[Nutter]

Now it's my turn. :)

I'm currently running the same setup as Jason Ashton's 2004 ROAR & Nats setup, but I'm finding that I'm flipping a LOT on corners when at speed. The three choices I see are to lower the ride height further, increase the (negative) camber, or trim some of the outter grip from the tires (Panther Chameleons).
I'd really like to avoid reducing the ride height as we have some serious jumps and other things that suspension travel are Good Things for. That leaves either increasing the negative camber or trimming the tires - and between those I'd rather just reduce the camber further to -3 degrees or so. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
So you know, the track is quite loose, with some hard packed areas, very technical with a lot of variation in just about everything (big jumps, whoops, elevation changes, burms, hairpins, sweepers, etc) to keep things interesting and focused on skill and not just flat-out speed. Right now the surface is very even, so it's not that I'm catching ruts.

[Buggyracer28]

drag is good for brakes. that's how they work. ;)
not when theres drag when you are at idle its not..... thats what im talking about...

Thanks for the pics man! For throttle im using a JR 590.. Its ok, but I cant afford a better one right now, im broke....