DuraTrax Nitro Evader ST forum

[dicko]

haven't seen those yet.

my parts are stuck on the docks in Perth. they have a truckdriver blockade around the docks and no containers are leaving. I still have to wait for my parts. next time I will go mailorder. unions aren't always good.

I hope I get them before xmas.

[BobT]

The pull start does not have to be removed as long as the flywheel is close enough to the bottom of the chassis. We use a starter box on Losi RTRs all the time with no trouble what so ever.

[dicko]

I have seen people put bigger fly wheels on to keep there pull start on the engine. It often comes down to personal preference.

[evaderstman]

does anyone know good high torque servos for the evader i am looking to buy some new ones to replace the stock ones

[guver]

I use a hs 70 mg , or cs 70 mg. Anyways it is a metal gear hi tork from tower or hobbico. I think they have over 100 oz of tork.

for throttle a std would be good right?

I have these for sale too.....

[evaderstman]

yo qube about that picture of your car i was wondering if you could give me a list of hop ups you have since it looks nice and since i am looking for some good compatible upgrades for my truck thanks for any info you give me and since i havent clocked mine yet does anyone know the top speed and does anyone know a way to make it faster that is cheap like a new gear set or somthing like it and who makes one

[dicko]

does anyone know good high torque servos for the evader i am looking to buy some new ones to replace the stock ones

Try the Hitec HS 625MG for the stearing, it is a high speed metal geared servo that can hold 5.5kg. It will be more than fine for the stearing on this truck. standard servos are fine for the throttle.

[losixxx213]

does anyone know if the xxxt wheels are thhe same as the duratrax? I know they'll fit but I was wondering if the width was the same with the stock wheels as the xxxt wheels.

[BobT]

I believe they use the same Proline wheels as sold for the Losi.

[losixxx213]

Thanks, I might get a nitro evader then, I'm still trying to decide on evader nt or the xxxnt.

[dicko]

My CV joints finally arrived. I picked up a Hitec HS 625MG servo for the staering while I was there aswell. I can finally get the Evader up & running again. It's been a while.

[dicko]

I have a problem. The Hitec servo doesn't mate with the stearing arm, and only the one stearing arm came in the kit. Does anyone know of a similar servo that will fit? or if there is a servo arm that fits the evader and the Hitec servo.

[dicko]

OK. The ARTR version has a servo horn that fits the Hitec servo, but no part number exists for it that I can find. The ARTR comes with 3 servo horns, but the RTR only comes with the one installed in the car. So if you want to use another servo other than a Fatuba compatible servo, you will have to get a servo horn from the ARTR version. Keep this in mind when upgrading your stearing servo.

I know that DTXC 8893 is a servo saver bag, but it says only one servo horn comes in the bag. I would hope that they supply one of each servo horn, but without buying one I can't say.

Will be running it tonight. can't wait to smell the burnt nitro.

[guver]

If you mean 8892 like the electric evst then it only has the one futaba arm in it.

My fuel smells like bubblegum??;)

[dicko]

that would be the one. Oh well, the guys at the hobby shop gave me one out of a ARTR kit. Hope the guy who buys it doesn't want to run Hitec Servos.

[BobT]

Originally posted by dicko
that would be the one. Oh well, the guys at the hobby shop gave me one out of a ARTR kit. Hope the guy who buys it doesn't want to run Hitec Servos.

There should have been several servo arms with the servo. The thick white X shaped one is just what you need. Cut off three legs and its perfect.

Servo makers use different splin counts on their servos. Hitec is the same as Tower and Hobbico with 24. I believe they are all made by the same company as the gear-set for a Hitec 605 is the same as a Hobbico CS-65.

Futaba (used in your rtr) is 23. I belive Airtronics and JR use 25. One more little tidbit in the world of RC.

[dicko]

The servo horns that came with the servo are a lot thinner & I wouldn't trust them to hold the ball joint on in a crash. I got a servo horn out of an ARTR version of the Evader ST that fits perfectly so there are no dramas for me there. But I managed to break another CV joint on the weekend, It's a good thing I had a spare. Sideways landings aren't good for cars, but it seems to drift sideways as soon as I descelerate off the jump. I might pull the driveline apart & see if anything isn't running as smooth as it should. otherwise it might be the way the engine is mounted as it dips and spins to that side.

[BobT]

Hitec and Hobbico used to put one heavy duty nylon x shaped servo arm in with each servo. Its possible yours was missing. They are much stronger than the typical plastic arms used for airplanes etc..

[dicko]

There is a big red one in there, but the geometry would have been wrong, The servo horn for the stearing on the Evader has a step out and the ball joint faces back towards the servo. I could have rigged it up to work, but I got the servo horn I needed, and I prefer not to comprimise on stearing if I can avoid it. I have had problems before by doing that.

[dicko]

Does anyone know of a replacement clutch shoe set that fits the 0.18 engine? I wan't to upgrade the clutch shoe to something a bit more durable than the stock one, but I can't find anything that fits. A part number and brand would be handy if possible.

Cheers
Dicko.

[rush freak]

does anybody know where to buy alumin a arms and shock towers for the nitro evader
im looking for some

thank you

[93ta]

anyone know of a clutchbell that will fit that has 18, 19, 20 teeth?

[dicko]

looks like I started something here. But the clutch bell I can help with. This is on the duratrax web site (As long as it isn't like the aluminium rear suspension plates that have part numbers listed but don't exist).

Stock Numbers:
DTXC2521 Ultralite Clutch Bells--13T
DTXC2522 Ultralite Clutch Bells--14T
DTXC2523 Ultralite Clutch Bells--15T
DTXC2524 Ultralite Clutch Bells--16T
DTXC2525 Ultralite Clutch Bells--17T
DTXC2526 Ultralite Clutch Bells--18T
Note: All use 5x10 bearings, except DTXC2521 which uses 5x8

Hope this helps.

[93ta]

dicko,
thx,

i called dtrax and they said they dont fit the evaders... but they still may fit. dtrax tech people really are clueless for the most part.

i'll try one out if i cant find anything else. still prefer a steel 19 tooth if i can find one.

[dicko]

I was doing laps of the local oval on the weekend, the car stopped running on the far side & I thought I had stalled. I tried to restart the car but the engine had seived. I thought it was a seized piston in the piston sleave, but it was a broken connecting rod. it was shattered and bent??? I was running the car on flat terrain and not too lean or rich.

I can't find the part DTXG 0473 anywhere on the web that does mail order, only at places that you have to visit. That's a bit hard when all the shops are in the U.S & I am in Australia. Our hobby shop doesn't do orders till January due to the Xmas rush. D'oh.

If any one knows of a hobby shop that does mail order and has that part in stock let me know, tower and ehobbies both don't list it.

[evaderstman]

hey dicko tower says that they will have them in soon so maybe if you look in a few day they will have them just pay for the quicker shipping because i just broke my pull start a few weeks ago and it took three weeks to come in so that made my engine really hard to start thats my only advice.

[dicko]

Cheers,

I emailed them and they said to try again with the search. I put an order in for them, but had to order a minimum of 2, I only need one. At least I will have a spare. What broke on your pullstart? I usually fix my own pullstarts, if you only break the line it is relatively easy.

Dicko.

[evaderstman]

The pullstarter was my fault i didn't know how it worked and i took it off and was playing with it and it exploded and it was to hard to get the spring back in so i bought a new one instead:mad:

[dicko]

It's pretty easy to fix if you are persistent. You coil the spring up in the housing with the pulley removed, thed using a pair of scissor-nosed pliers you jam the spring back into the pulley after putting the pully in place. wind a few turns of cord on first, then once the spring & pulley are together, pull the pulley out from the housing just enough to put a turn of cord on it. you will need to pull the cord out, hold the pulley to stop it winding back in and stick a few more turns on until it recoils the cord all the way back in. after a few times of doing this you will get the nack & it won't be difficult, I have done it far too many times, the pullstart on my DT-10 often gets stuck and the only way to get it off is to let the spring go nuts.

[dicko]

my parts just got sent from tower hobbies, I wonder how long it will take to get here express air mail in the madhouse that is xmas post rush. I have a friend who works for the post here in Australia (he hasn't gone postal yet) who says 1 week. So I might get it just after xmas.

My last day at work today for a couple of weeks r&r& lots o beer.

merry xmas & happy new year:)

[BobT]

Here is a tip for your pull start.

Check your pull-string often and look for worn frayed areas. Replace it ASAP. It’s easier to do if it has not broken yet.

Avoid having your pull start chafe on the Lextan body or any other parts around it.

You can protect the pull-string by putting plastic tubing on the string that is long enough to make the pull handle exit the body.

The best plastic tubing is as close as the nearest Bic pen. Not a click type but the old type that uses a cap. Use an old pen that no longer works.

Pull the ballpoint, ink tube and end cap out leaving just the empty plastic tube.

Measure how long the tube has to be to keep the pull-string clear from harm.

Unscrew your glow plug one turn to release any compression in the engine and slowly pull the pull start handle out.

Clamp the string with something like a medical clamp at the base. If you don't have one have your buddy hold it with a pliers.

Remove the pull-handle and any tubing that is already on the string. Undo the knot or just cut it off.

Slide the plastic tubing on and reattach the pull-handle using a couple of square knots.

Don't forget to retighten your glow plug.

Now you have a pull start that is easy to reach with the body on and it will not chafe on the body.
:cool:

[evaderstman]

hey i have been having some trouble again my car wont start the glow plug and glow starter are good but it just wont start and if it does as soon as i let up on the throttle it dies can any one help

[BobT]

An engine needs three things to run:

1) AIR

2) FUEL

3) HEAT

You have proved you have heat. Check for the other two.

If your fuel line is kinked or clogged it may be starving for fuel. Pull the fuel line off the engine, put your finger over the exhaust stinger and pull the starter. Fuel should squirt out the line. If not check for preasure leaks. Better yet replace all the fuel lines. Its a good idea to do this every month or so if you run your truck a lot.

If your air filter is too dirty it can be starved for air. Clean it, re-oil it and try starting it again.

Of course if it starts but dies as soon as you put it down to run or after a lap or two you may be low on compresion and need a rebuild.

If you don't have a nitro mentor to help you ask your local hobby shop if they can check it for you. If they support RC cars they should have someone who can help you.

[dicko]

Gday, I'm back from a nice break. I finally got a new conrod & got the evader running again. I had a problem yesterday where the radio gear was pulsing at full lock (max revs) so I couldn't tune it in. as soon as the servo came near full throttle it would start to back off and start pulsing. I am buying the JR digital display radio today & getting rid of the duratrax (Fatuba) one. The engine hasn't thrown another conrod yet & i am still at a loss as to why it went last time, the engine was running just right & I have never run it without the air cleaner. I guess it was just one of those things. I hope It doesn't happen again.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Originally posted by dicko
as soon as the servo came near full throttle it would start to back off and start pulsing. I am buying the JR digital display radio today & getting rid of the duratrax (Fatuba) one. The engine hasn't thrown another conrod yet & i am still at a loss as to why it went last time, the engine was running just right & I have never run it without the air cleaner.

Dicko,

Check your servo leads. It is possible the insulation has been worn away and the bare wire is contacting the metal chassis. This can cause the symptom you are having.

If the wild servo swings don’t appear until you start the engine this could likely be your trouble. Also check your servo connections to the radio. These can work loose with vibrations just like screws and nuts.

It could also be a loose connection in the receiver itself, in which case your warranty might still cover Duratrax fixing it.

Even if you still want to upgrade to a new FM radio its nice to have a backup or you can sell the AM to someone else for more fuel money.

[dicko]

I checked all that when I pulled the radio gear out. It was doing it without the engine running & to get it under warranty wouldn't be worth the hassle. I am still waiting to hear about the CV joints I broke last September. The new radio should come in today or tomorrow. Once it arrives I will have 4 spare radios lying around, all my cars are going onto the new one. I just need to buy 3 more recievers & a few crystals.

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

hey dicko what kind of radios do you have lying around any high quality just wondering i think i found my problem the throttle servo arm isnt centered and i dont know how to center i tried to twist it but it didnt work i think this is the problem since it closes up the carb opening a lot and i think that is the problem anyone now how to fix it

[dicko]

I have an FM Classic 2 channel stick which I will put in a nitro boat (reliable & good quality), a fatuba 2 channel stick (cheapie), a Sanwa Dash 2 channel stick (old & reliable) and the Duratrax (Fatuba) pistol grip.

about your problem, I don't realy know what you mean, but if you take the servo horn off of the servo, turn your radio on & centre the servo adjustment tab, then put the servo horn back on so that the carbie is set at idle you should be close. then check to see if the spring stop needs to be adjusted. you may need to check your brake setting as well.

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

hey thanks for the help i tried to start it again but first i warmed the engine with a hair dryer and it started and ran well so i am good now thanks again

[dicko]

You must live somewhere where the winters get cold. I've never had to resort to that. On the coldest days I just let the engine run for a few minutes before I start to drive it. We have just had two days of rain and are on our third, and it's the middle of summer. But the weekend is looking good, fine & 26 degrees C. A nice change to the past few weeks where it has been over 30 deg almost every day.

Have fun & tryu not to break anything.

Cheers
Dicko.

ps still waiting on my new radio gear, can't be long now.

[evaderstman]

hey dicko it isnt that cold here but it has been pretty cold latly so that is why i tried that i live in South Carolina which is down south and is nothing compared to New York were i am from but it is still pretty cold

[dicko]

I live in Adelaide, South Australia. A nice medditeranean climate like SoCal with out the smog. Hot summers & mild winters. Great for driving rc all year round (except in the middle of the day in summer, you'll overheat & sieze an anginre) sailing, surfing & downhill mountainbiking is all the go over here. I am still waiting on my radio gear. I might give them a call later today & see what the go is.

This weekend looks great, 26 degreec C (79 F) and fine all weekend. looks like a few litres may get burnt this weekend.

Cheers & safe runnings.
Dicko.

[dicko]

A quick question. Does anyone know of a STEAL bell gear to fit the evader? I noticed that the stock aluminium one is already starting to wear. I wouldn't mind a better clutch either, I have had many white plastic ones melt because it slips (& gets hot) instead of grip the clutch bell. I would rather the harder grey/black clutch compound. There are planty of 13 teeth steal gears out there, but I have no idea which ones will fit. HPI make one, but does it fit the evader?

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

Hey dicko i noticed mine was wearing to but how would you know if the clucth was melting just wondering

[dicko]

when you accelerate the engine revs, but the truck doesn't go anywhere fast, accelerates like a slug or not at all and there is usually a bad melted plastic smell. when you pull the bell gear off the cluth shoes and spring will be in one mass with the spring well & truly embedded in the clutch shoes. not a pretty sight & usually due to substandard plastic being used on the slutch shoes. I haven't had it happen to the evader yet, but the white plastic looks similar to the shoes I did melt on my DT-10. The DT-10 shoes are now made out of a harder, more durable dark grey plastic compound. but they don't fit the evader.

[BobT]

In other words its an educated guess until you pull the clutchbell off and prove your theory.
:D

[dicko]

Bingo, you've won a set of steak knives. I found the problem with the pulsing servo. It was the failsafe kicking in & out. I have it set to full brakes so that when the battery pack dies it doesn't take off at full throttle and die in hundreds of pieces. I got rid of the cheap batteries and bought 5 NiMH 1250mAmp cells to make into a recharge pack. I have the recharge pack for my new transmitter, but they had to order the charger in cause JR have a different polarity to the rest.

My new radio gear is awesome, I just need a bit of time to sit down & learn all the functions, this thing is so much more complicated than any video machine ever made, and it only has 3 channels.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Dicko,

If you race you may want to reconsider your fail-safe setting.

If you are barreling down the long strait with 3 or 4 blokes hot on your tail do you realy want your breaks to come on if your radio signal goes bad???

That thought causes me to set mine to go to neutral on throttle and steering. At least when I hit something it will not be under power, just idleing.

You are gonna love your JR. Did you get the R-1?

[dicko]

I got the XS3 with the rs300 reciever, 40mHz and 10 model memory. very nice, I am still waiting for the charger to come in (i made up a battery pack for the car & bought the one for the transmitter).

I have a local track no more than 4 minutes walk from my house, but as yet there aren't enough people with nitro stadium trucks for us to get a class up & running yet. So I go down after work & on week ends & have a thrash with who ever rocks up. there are a few guys with stadium trucks & a few with 1/8 scale buggies. If we all had the same type we'd probably have enough, but at the moment people rock up when they feel like it or have some spare time.

The track is tight & twisty with a few trees around and lots of dips off to the side of the track (great for jumping out onto the football oval). there isn't a lot of room for error, so I set it to brakes. I had it set at idle but it didn't slow down in time & flew into a tree. lucky it was a head on & only the bumper was broken. Even with brakes it isn't a hard stop, it stops in about 3 metres from near full throttle the way I have it set (as long as it doesn't skid)

Cheers
Dicko

[OBLIVION]

Originally posted by dicko
I live in Adelaide, South Australia. A nice medditeranean climate like SoCal with out the smog.
Cheers & safe runnings.
Dicko.

hey dicko, where abouts do you race the truck?
theres 2 tracks i know of.. one at RAAF Edinburgh which is always locked up (Penfield Raceway) and the other is down in the Plympton area? somewhere near there? (never been to that one)

Maybe we can meet there sometime and go for a thrash or something...

The XS3 Radio is great, i went to Model flight (next to Le-cornu's on anzac hwy) and picked up a cheap JR R135 receiver with crystal for $105Aus so I can now use the XS3 with both my Nitro Touring Car + Stadium Truck
As for the charger being a different polarity, chop the cable and solder in a plug so you can have the charger one way for Hitec + other radios, and by reversing the plug you can use it on your JR radio...
mark one side of the plug JR and the other Hitec. it makes it real easy to switch the charger between different radios..

[dicko]

I live in Mitchell Park, near the Marion Pub on Marion Road (my local), The Mitchell Park oval has an off road track that I run my cars on. I tune them in on the oval then run them on the track.

http://www.sdmcc.asn.au/

That is a link to the track by my place. I live 2 streets to the west of the park. Pretty handy. I run a TTR DT-10 stadium truck as well, and a Tamiya Subaru 0.12 on the street when I am too lazy to walk the 4 minutes to the park (not often at all).

I know Model Flight, but I get much better service from the guys in S.A Hobby Centre. I go to Model Flight as a last resort.

What trucks/cars do you run?

Cheers
Dicko.

[OBLIVION]

Nitro 4Tec + Nitro Rustler..
mitchel park track...yeah thats the one i was thinking of (except i was thinking plympton) ill have to give it a thrashin sometime :)

i usually buy all my parts + upgrades from Towerhobbies.com (except fuel n stuff) but SA hobby centre is pretty good for service (especially when compared to some of the overpriced shops around adelaide...
I live a couple of minutes from "The parks raceway" (onroad circuit) here in Angle Park near the greyhound track..

[dicko]

Ahh, other end of South Road. Not many turns to get to the Mithchell Park Track, once your on South road you'll need to turn twice. Once onto Celtic Avenue & the other to the Track. Which year Rustler? The latest one has a sick engine, I want to get it to put in the Evader, but a pull start version. I'll have to wait a while yet, the budget is allreay blown for the next month, & I got paid today.

Cheers
Dicko.

[OBLIVION]

my nitro 4Tec has the new trx2.5 engine, and my Nitro Rustler has the pro.15 engine...

around here (westwood area) is all housing re-development which makes for fantastic fun.. big flat blocks of land, just waiting to be thrashed on :D

[BobT]

You two need to show up on race day together. If you don't have a third person for a class ask if you could do just one demo race with just you two.

If they ok that make sure the race announcer calls your race and states several times how your trucks are the least expensive nitro trucks. That's not a put-down that is encouragement for those who have been thinking about trying nitro.

We did the same thing at our electric track. My buddy ran his Losi XXX-NT RTR (stock) and I ran my older kit XXX-NT. the announcer stated how much the Losi RTR cost and the fact that it was running completely stock.

The next week we had two new Losi RTRs running with us. ;) The week after that all the Duratrax, Traxxas and HPIs came out of the closet and we had a big class of guys having a great time.

[dicko]

You can also point out the fact that nitro is much cheaper to set up and run than electric. batteries and good motors cost a fortune. All the racers from the club that runs the track by me are currently racing on road at a local hobby shop. I find it a bit frustrating that they have a great track that they rarely use. It gets more use from guys running nitro on it in there spare time that it does from the club that runs it.

[OBLIVION]

good idea BobT, id certainly be in that...
i do know of a guy who is gettin the Nrustler 2.5 around march, maybe i can convince him to join in with us :D

[dicko]

I am selling my DT-10 for the right price, heaps of spares & upgrades (I have always kept a spare for the common wearing parts and hard to get parts). if You know someone who wants it there could be 4, and I think that is anough to get a legitimate race. The race fee at SDMCC is pretty cheap, 6 bucks, with electronic timing. We just need to get them down there.

[BobT]

Many people avoid racing because they feel they don't drive well enough and are too embarrased to race with people.

If they know they will be racing with their buddies they will be more willing to come out. Make sure they know it is for FUN and everyone is going to laugh because it is FUN.

Remember in RC racing the emphisis is on FUN.

[OBLIVION]

yeah thats true bob, at our local onroad circuit its only a small group that run nitro (maybe a dozen, on average) my mates wont go racing because of that reason u mentioned, but are eager to go to the track when there isnt any racing on..
I go out just for the fun + coz i enjoy watching other races aswell..
i only attend about every 3rd meeting tho..
(being a marshall gets u closest to the action :D )

[BobT]

My personal philosophy on racing is this:

1) I go to the track to have fun.
2) I practice and race to improve my skill and lower my lap times.
3) If my lap times improve I have had a good race day.
4) If I keep improving eventually my lap times will be low enough to win a race.
5) If I have had fun at the track I go home a winner (see #1).

As you can see winning the race is in there but its not the only thing I aim for.

Its a hobby. Have fun with it.

[evaderstman]

Hey you guys are right racing does look fun even though i havent got to race yet since i havent got out to my local track yet and i dont think they allow the .18 engine or that is at least what there web site said
i have a question though i just bought that ic-3 charger from radio shack it is the one that charges in 15 minutes but will those batteries work well in my evader they say they put out 800 mah a piece i bought it for my new xmod and thought they would be cheaper than buying a new charger and a reciever pack for my evader

[BobT]

No.

You need 6 volts from your battery pack. 4 Alkaline cells produce 6 volts (1.5 each times 4 = 6volts)

4 rechargable AA cells will only produce 4.8 volts (1.2v times 4 = 4.8v). To use rechargable cells you have to use 5 to get 6 volts (1.2v x 5 = 6v).

[dicko]

Don't use anything less than 800mah. you should run 6 volts as BobT said. I run 5x1.2NiMH 1200mah in my evader. That gives me longer run time in the servo & reciever than the transmitter. I charge them both up overnight the night before I give them a run.

anything less than 800 mah will not last long. I get bored of driving usually before the batteries run out of charge. The higher the mah, the longer the run time and the longer to recharge them. For an idea, if you have a 60 mah charger you divide the mah of the battery and times by 1.3, (1200 / 60)*1.3 you will get how long to charge your battery from dead flat to full charge. So a 1200 mah battery with a 60 mah charger will take 26 hours to charge from dead flat. Fast chargers will make your battery packs life shorter.

I am waiting on a new clutch bell. The evader one is officialy worn out. I was assured by the guys at the hobby shop that the associated RC 10GT clutch bell will fit, as long as I get the Associated bearings. At least it isn't aluminium. Even if it doesn't fit I will buy the rest of the associated assembly to get it going. No more aluminium bell gears here. The teeth are the same, so if the bell fits the clutch I am all go. The evader is pretty much an Associated (look at the Associated spares and compare them to an Evader spare, they are the same).

I had the DT-10 out on the week end while the evader is on the shelf. I need to get a recharge pack for that thing this week.

By the way, If you get enough guys running 0.18 engines, they should be able to hold a class. As long as everyone is running at an even pace, why shouldn't you be allowed. I agree mixing engine capacities isn't a fair race, but if your all even, give it a go.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Does anyone have any views on wiring battery packs up in series or parallel? I just wired them all up in series, then as an after thought I suddenly thought of parallel. I just wired them up in series as that is how the packs you buy are wired. The only drawback I can see in parallel would be the sudden decrease in voltage when the batteries went flat, instead of a bit of a slow drawdown with some warning.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Your 5-cell pack must be wired in series. If you don't you will not have enough voltage. Wiring in parralel will only give you 1.2 volts you need 6 volts. These numbers are for rechargable cells.

[dicko]

Yeah, I figured it out last night. You'd get a lot of capacity though. But that isn't really what I need. Good thing I wired them up in series.

[OBLIVION]

hey dicko, is there racing next weekend??? im thinkin of coming out for a thrash today aswell, just to test the track out...
offroad racin (http://www.users.bigpond.com/smeddy/offroad/index.htm)
thats the website i have for it.. are the times still correct?

[fullmetallstpro]

as anyone put a os 15cvx on an evader and is it a good engine 4 the evader

[BobT]

Originally posted by fullmetallstpro
as anyone put a os 15cvx on an evader and is it a good engine 4 the evader

It is an excellent engine. I use it in my T-Maxx and it has gobs of power. It should work very well in your Evader.

[Shoe0727]

I, thinking about buying a evader and i have a few questions. Is it worth the money and how does it handle offroading.

[dicko]

Oblivion, sorry didn't see your post till today. I was there on Monday having a blast with 3 guys from tea treee gully. They all seemed keen to get racing, but there hasn't been anyone from the club there the past 2 months, so I don't know what the deal with the times is. There were too other guys with what looked like nitro rustlers at the far end of the park, was that you? I only had the DT-10 there, the evader is still waiting for a new bell gear, hopefully I will get it this week. I need a new set of front tyres for the Dt-10 too, turning on the track wasn't easy with worn front tyres (more money:rolleyes: ).

Shoe0727, the evader handles very well off road, the only drawback I have is that the bell gear is made from aluminium and needs to be replaced with a steal alloy one (aluminium wears out too fast) but it handles really well. The fuel tank needs a better seal to stop fuel leaking out over the car (fussy) and buy the ARTR version and put your own good radio gear in it. The stock (Futaba) radio gear is good, but you'll appreciate it more with a good radio gear.:)

Cheers
Dicko.

[Shoe0727]

Thanks Dicko

Shoe0727

[dicko]

Oblivion,

I spoke to the guy who runs the track, He is going down on Sunday, So if you know any one whos keen, let them know. My Evader is out of action, but I'll try to get the DT-10 ready to roll.

Cheers
Dicko.

[ND_RC]

[i]The fuel tank needs a better seal to stop fuel leaking out over the car (fussy) :) [/B]

Dicko:

I bought the RC10GT/NTC3 fuel tank - Part #7719 - It was the best investment so far. I don't have near the fuel mess/waste I had with the stock tank.

[dicko]

Did you have to drill new holes in the Chassis to fit it? I was looking at getting an associated tank, a lot of associated stuff (ie the diff casing) is identical to the duratrax gear. I wasn't sure If I would be able to do a strait swap or if I needed to do some adjustments.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Shoe0727]

Hey Dicko,

One of my friends just got a new XXX NT Sport and all it is doing is going through glow plugs. He went and bought two new O.S. 8 plugs and it burned them out in about ten minutes each. We already checked how lean it was and that wasn't the problem. Do you know what the problem could be??

Thanks,
Shoe0727

[dicko]

The mixture setting that the manufacturer recomends is just that, a recomendation, one of my trucks runs with the screw an extra two turns out than the recomendation, and the other one runs about 3/4 turn in from the recomendation. Richen the engine right up and wind it back from there. If you still go through plugs try a different plug type. OS make a few that may suit, like the A3 which is commonly used in buggy engines. Check the OS website, they have a range of plugs and descriptions on there, and you may find something on there FAQ page.

[Shoe0727]

thank you


shoe0727

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by dicko
Did you have to drill new holes in the Chassis to fit it? I was looking at getting an associated tank, a lot of associated stuff (ie the diff casing) is identical to the duratrax gear. I wasn't sure If I would be able to do a strait swap or if I needed to do some adjustments.

Cheers
Dicko.

Yes, I had to drill 3 new holes for the associated tank.

I took a piece of paper about the same length and width of the tank. Placed the paper on the bottum side of the tank and just pressed down with my thumb where the holes were at. This gave me an indentation of the 3 holes on the paper.

After removing the old tank, I placed the paper on the inside of the chassis and used a center punch to mark the center of each hole. Drilled the holes out, flipped the chassis over and drilled some counter sink holes on the bottom for the screw heads and mounted the new tank.

It was about a 10 to 15 minute job.

[BobT]

Shoe,

If the engine it not too lean try this. Grab the end of the crankshaft actually the clutch shaft at that point and try moving it up and down. If there is some play you may have a bad bearing in the engine.

Remove the engine from the truck. Remove the clutch and do the same test trying to wiggle the actual crank shaft (threaded) end. If you still feel play its a bearing. This is rare in a new engine but it can happen and that would take a plug out real fast.

If this is your problem contact Losi. If its brand new the should replace the engine under warentee.

[dicko]

Cheers ND_RC, I will look into one of them, but there is an easier way to set up your holes. put the tank on a piece of paper & trace the outline, then put a thin layer of grease on the bottom of the tank round the holes and press onto the paper, do this with both tanks (in the same outline) so that you have the impression of both hole sets on the paper. Then line up the original holes with the ones on the chassis and mark the new holes to be drilled. this way the new tank will sit right where the old tank was with pretty good precision and less room for error.

By the way the Associated RC10GT bell gear wont fit the Evader, the clutch housing is far too small (the whole gear & bell fits inside the Evader clutch housing). The teeth are a perfect match but there is no way you will get the bell gear on. I am looking at 2 options now, 1- making my own bell gear, and 2- finding a 15t 32P bell gear from yet another brand. The Cobra bell gear is the right clutch size, but the teeth are the wrong pitch. there has to be something out there.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Dicko,

Have you looked at clutch bells for 1/8th scale engines? Not sure if you can find a 15 tooth that would fit but I know they do have 14 tooth and they are a little bigger than a tenth scale bell.
The common bearing size for 1/8th bell is a 5x10mm. Worth a look anyway.

[dicko]

The clutch housing part needs to be 25mm internal diameter by 12mm deep. The teeth need to be 32P in a range of 13 - 17 teeth. Associated clutch housings are far too small. If anyone knows of something that sounds similar let me know.

Cheers
Dicko.

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by dicko
Cheers ND_RC, I will look into one of them, but there is an easier way to set up your holes. put the tank on a piece of paper & trace the outline, then put a thin layer of grease on the bottom of the tank round the holes and press onto the paper, do this with both tanks (in the same outline) so that you have the impression of both hole sets on the paper. Then line up the original holes with the ones on the chassis and mark the new holes to be drilled. this way the new tank will sit right where the old tank was with pretty good precision and less room for error.
Cheers
Dicko.

The new tank actually wont fit in the same place as the old tank. The receiver box is in the way because of where the mounting holes are located on the new tank you cant use any of the old mounting holes. The new tank only has 3 mounting holes to the 4 the old tank had.

Plus I didn't want to have to worry about the switch wire rubbing. It runs between the tank and receiver box back to the battery box. I just shifted the tank so it is about 1/8th inch away from the receiver box.

Seems to be ok.:)

[chevy_94]

I was wantin to know if any one makes aluminum shock towers for the Evader ST?

[evaderstman]

hey duratrax is coming out with some tower hobbies look here

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0096p?&N=N&C=&F=LXDJM0&L=DTXC6822&S1=NITRO&S2=EVADER&S3=ST&S4=

they will have them mid febuary

[chevy_94]

will the pipe set part no.LXDTA2 fit on the >18 engine that came with it?

[BobT]

As it is designed for the Nitro Evader I will go out on a limb and say yes it will fit.

If you read Tower's tech info it certanly sounds that way.

NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT
This is the Tuned Pipe Set for the Duratrax Nitro Evader truck.

FEATURES: Black aluminum tuned pipe set

INCLUDES: One tuned pipe with pre-installed pressure tap
One manifold with gasket
One yellow coupler
Two nylon tie straps
Mounting hardware and screws

REQUIRES: Assembly onto the Duratrax Nitro Evader

SPECS: Distance between manifold mounting holes: 1.05" (28mm)
Length of tuned pipe: 5.5" (139mm) including mounting stub
Diameter of tuned pipe at thickest point: 1.3" (33mm)


If your engines pipe mounting screw holes are 28mm on center then it will fit. These are normally a standard size. You can basically take anyones small block (.12-.18) exhaust manafold and put it on your small block engine.

[chevy_94]

Well i found out that is the stock pipe for it so I have a cvec pipe on here and i won't be changing. doe anyone who or if they make aluminum a-arms for the nitro Evader ST.

[dicko]

Just got a new OS CV-RX 0.15 for he evader. Nice engine, I can't wait to get the replacement bell gear so I can run it in. I was going to get the TRAXXAS 0.15 but it costs far too much money. My parts should arrive this week, but I won't be holding my breath.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Originally posted by dicko
Just got a new OS CV-RX 0.15 for he evader. Nice engine, I can't wait to get the replacement bell gear so I can run it in. I was going to get the TRAXXAS 0.15 but it costs far too much money. My parts should arrive this week, but I won't be holding my breath.

Cheers
Dicko.

Dicko,

You will love the CVR-X .15. I run mine in a T-Maxx and it hauls the mail! In the Evader it should be ballistic. The Traxxas may have a touch more HP but only if you can tune it and keep it tuned. The beuty of the OS is it is easy to tune and holds its tune.

I will take .1 less HP everyday as long as its consistant. ;)

Why can't you use the Evader's clutch system??? Is there something wrong with it?

[dicko]

The clutch bell on the evader is made out of aluminium, so it wears out really quickly. The teeth are the same as the associated rc10 gt, but the clutch bell is a lot bigger on the evader. No-one as yet makes a replacement clutch bell for the evader and so far I am yet to find a clutch bell that will fit over the clutch (the associated one is far too small , it fits inside the evader bell, or the bell is the right size, but the teeth don't match ie the cobra).

Two of my friends are tool makers who can run CNC machines, when I get my replacement bell they are going to measure it up & make a hardened steel one. It may take them some time to get it finished (not to do the actual job, but to get the time to do it) but it will be worth the wait.

Cheers
Dicko.

[chevy_94]

I am goin to upgrade my evader to all aluminum here in about a month it will include front and rear shock towers front and rear a-arms and front and rear hubs and front knuckles. I will post some pics when i get done with it. does anyone make aluminum bulkheads for the Evader.

[BobT]

Originally posted by dicko

Two of my friends are tool makers who can run CNC machines, when I get my replacement bell they are going to measure it up & make a hardened steel one. It may take them some time to get it finished (not to do the actual job, but to get the time to do it) but it will be worth the wait.

Cheers
Dicko.

Have you priced out what it would cost to just convert everything to a Losi or Associated clutch/flywheel etc? It might be a lot less hassle.

A large steel clutch bell might be too heavy and impare the trucks performance. That may be why they made it of aluminum.

Look at the Losi clutch/flywheel set up. You will not need to cut the crankshaft like you do with the Associated clutch.

IMHO If you use a standard available clutch and the next clutch bell wears out you don't have to ask your mates to make you a new one. ;)

[dicko]

does anyone make aluminum bulkheads for the Evader.

Duratrax do, check your optional parts & hardware list in your manual. part #s DTXC6803/4 (front blue or purple)- DTXC6820/1 )rear blue or purple).

I was looking at the associated one yesterday, but I don't think it will fit my engine. I haven't checked the Lossi one yet. I'll look into it. I was going to get the steel one vented and a bit thinner walled steel on the bell to lighten it up. And once they have set up the machine they would cut at least ten of them as it takes more time to set the machines up than to cut the gears. I might try to see how close we can get the weight to the original one without sacrificing strength now.

I think they went for aluminium because it is cheaper than getting a hardened steel one, and then they didn't have to spec a non standard size engine block.

Cheers
Dicko.

I'm off to look up Lossi.

[dicko]

The Losi one won't fit, the teeth sit too close to the engine. They need to be further outnear the end of the drive shaft. Still looking.

My TTR DT-10 has a hardened steel clutch bell similar in size to the evader bell, but the teeth are the wrong pitch. I don't think the weight will be much of a problem, as long as the gear is balanced properly.

Back to the search.

Dicko.

[chevy_94]

I didn't know that Duratrax made bulkheads for the Evader. thanks for the info. What would be a good engine for the Evader I am thinkin of a .21 what do ya'll think. I'm not racing it just a basher. Or would a .15 be better?

[BobT]

Originally posted by chevy_94
I didn't know that Duratrax made bulkheads for the Evader. thanks for the info. What would be a good engine for the Evader I am thinkin of a .21 what do ya'll think. I'm not racing it just a basher. Or would a .15 be better?

How about a small-block Chevy?

Seriously you may have trouble fitting a .21 in the Evader.

For outlandish horsepower look at a Picco, Mugen, Omega or an OS CVR.

[chevy_94]

So a .21 won't fit? i looked at this .12.picco http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html what about that?

[BobT]

Originally posted by chevy_94
So a .21 won't fit? i looked at this .12.picco http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html what about that?

That would be an awsome engine. Make sure you get the correct exhaust pipe as well. As it is a rear exhaust you will need a different header such as OFNA Part#: 10059.

Also I believe you will also need the threaded shaft version Part#PART #51122.

You are looking at twice the power if you tune it right. :eek: :cool: :D

[dicko]

You're one of these "It needs more power" people aren't you. If you have no trouble with money and don't intend on racing it you could go for the NovaRossi, or the turbo head OS CV-R. Both those engines have insane amounts of power, I have seen the NovaRossi flip stadium trucks over backwards from a rolling start, not even a standing start. Now that should suit you. If you upgrade to all ali, you will end up breaking the next weekest thing, this will probably be your A arms. I'd be interested to know what goes next. I have the Ali rear hubs, they are great.

Cheers
Dicko.

[chevy_94]

yep I am mainly one of those guys to like alot of power and money isn't an issue. well i have had my Evader for 2 weeks today. and the first day i got it a pin come out cv shaft and i replaced those today and today i had a frontknuckle/hub left (or thats what the part says in my manual) break on me today and of course it was plastic and i have prolly ran this car 20 minutes all together. So i will be upgrading to aluminum, cause plastic parts break to easy in the cold. I am lookin at different motors i haven't made my mind up on what I want yet. but i am lookin at upgrading to all aluminum here in about 2 weeks or so. thanx for the info.

[dicko]

No Probs, Duratrax say that they don't make the aluminium rear suspension plate, but Great Planes have it in their catalogue as well now, so I don't know the story there. You can find them listed on the Duratrax website and in their manual under optional parts. I think I will get aluminium parts as they break, But as long as I run it in temps above 5 degrees I shouldn't have a problem. pretty rare to get temps that low where I live anyway.

Still waiting on my parts. The wholesaler over here is so slow. Even the hobby shop gets frustrated with them, especially when people start going to mail order. Pitty they can't have competing wholesalers, service might improve.

As soon as I get my clutch bell it will be measured up to make a steel one.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Heay Oblivion,

Tha Mitchell Park track is getting up & running again. They are going to get it set up as a registered club with races hopefully every fortnight if they get enough interest. The first race is supposed to be set for the first sunday of next month. It is primarily for electric, but if we get enough Nitro Stadium Trucks, we can get a class set up for them as well. Once the Mitchell park track is up & running, they plan to open up the Morphet vale track as well, hopefully it won't end there with some of the northern tracks reappearing. The morphet vale track is much better suited to nitro. Now that I have a ROAR legal engine for the Evader, I am keen for this to happen.

There were a lot of people turning up on Sunday asking about the racing situation & the guy who organises everything was there. With all the interest I think it gave him a bit more encouragement to get it set up. It looks like there will be some hobby shop backing too.

Hope to see you there.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Originally posted by dicko

There were a lot of people turning up on Sunday asking about the racing situation & the guy who organises everything was there. With all the interest I think it gave him a bit more encouragement to get it set up. It looks like there will be some hobby shop backing too.

Hope to see you there.

Cheers
Dicko.

Sounds like you are on your way to an organized track. The difference between electric and nitro 1/10th scale tracks is the need for a pit lane for nitro. But a pit lane is a benefit to electric as well.

Hard feelings can be created if you demand longer heats and mains for the nitro class so be careful not to step on electric toes. You can sugest it but don't push it.

I am mainly an "electric guy". My original home track has matured into almost "nitro-only" 1/8th only track. 15 and 20 mains with bump-ups but no such consideration of electric classes and tripple A-mains etc. Electric must marshal 15 and 20 minute mains but gas guys only have to marshal 5 minute electric races.

When nitro drivers demanded even more from us I protested. They said if I did not agree don't race there. I have not been back there since. I now drive 60 miles to race at a 1/10th scale track. The atmosphere is more family and kid oriented. It better suites my "doing it for fun" attitude and I have a ball.

My racing buddy and I introduced nitro trucks to this track. There is no pit and ALL races are 5 minutes only. So far everything is cool and everyone is having a good time.

Sorry I did not intend to preach. :rolleyes: :)

[dicko]

I don't think the electric drivers have anything to worry about, the track is run by electric drivers. That is why they were aiming to get the other track up & running as it is designed for nitro, my local is short & twisty, perfect for electric. I'm happy just to get out & have a race.

Cheers
Dicko.

still waiting on parts.

[OBLIVION]

actually i went there about 2 sundays ago and had great fun with my truck on the mitchell park track..
Even tho i was on my own, it was the most fun ive had with my truck so far, the jumps were a nice size and i loved the outer straight, the two sweepers on that straight were great fun..

i have a couple of links to some video taken on the day by my mate if anyone wants to see them...
Right click and "Save Target As" (they wont play over the net)

Nothing earth shaking, just my 2wd Stadium truck thrashing around havin fun, with a few ordinary sized jumps, wheelies, + plenty of stacks :)

A Lap of the track. (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivion/movies/Mitchell%20Park%20-%20LAP(1).avi)
a 1 min / 3mb video, me "finding" my way around the track for the first time.

Matty has a drive (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivion/movies/Mitchell%20Park%20Day-Edit(1).avi) 1min / 5mb
My mates son Matty wanted a go, so i done throttle brake while he done steering by himself.. "the better you steer, the faster i go" i told him... we actually got croozin' down the straight... :D

StadiumTruck Thrash (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivion/movies/Mitchell%20Park%20Day-Edit(1).avi)
all the action from the day, rolled into a 5min / 14mb video

I found out when i got home, my exhaust header came loose, which was causing me some performance loss :(

i have a few nice pics of the track, but didnt post them since im new here, and im already posting about a track and not evader related topics

[dicko]

Did you nitoce that If you go straightahead off the start straight it is a nice jump out onto the oval, and the same coming back onto the track:D carefull though, many a stack and breakage has occured there.

[OBLIVION]

yeah the jump back onto the track from the oval was fun, and i was using the oval as a drag strip ( u see some in the vid)
on the opposite side of the track to the drivers stand i loved using those hills to jump back towards teh stand, i done a nice wheelie over one (also in the vid)

[dicko]

I don't seem to get any video, only audio on those files. I might have to try to burn it onto a cd & see if I can see them on another computer with a different video program. I'm on a unix station here, not a PC.

[OBLIVION]

oh sorry.. its probably because i compressed them with the divX codec
you can get it free from www.divx.com
or this link here to get the download straight away (http://download.divx.com/divx/DivXPro511GAINBundle.exe)

[dicko]

I can't install it on here. I'd need administrator access. I.T. don't like us having fun. I'll find a way later.

I ordered the asociated tank for the evader today. hopefully no more fuel all over the car. still need the clutch bell so I can run that new OS engine in.

[Qube]

Hmmmm... wonder when it's time for a topic split. Haven't read this in a while and it's mad to wade through the pages! :p

Now then, has anyone found a spur gear replacement? Are there any Delrin or Steel spur gears out there that will fit?

[dicko]

I wouldn't worry too much about a metal spur gear until you have a steal alloy clutch bell. If you get a metal spur gear your clutch bell will last a very short period of time. but if you type in "60T 32P spur gear" into a google search you will find many associated hop up options that will fit the evader.

Cheers
Dicko.

[chevy_94]

what is the difference in motors? http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html and http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco7port.html

[dicko]

the ROAR engine is race legal. the 7 port engine is not. if you want to race the truck you will need the ROAR engine. the 7 prt engine also revs a lot higher (42000RPM) compared to the ROAR engine (36000RPM). the 7 port also has more horse power (1.5) compared to the ROAR(1.39). looks like the 7 port may have a turbo head as well. the ROAR engine has similar specs to my 0.15 OS engine which is ROAR legal, a bit more HP on the Picco though.

if you don't want to race and have the money, get the 7 port. yopu will need a new exhaust manifold aswell as this is a rear exhaust engine.

make sure you don't cook the engine either. it will be expensive to get replacement parts.

Cheers
Dicko.

[chevy_94]

No I don't plan on racing the truck so i might get the 7 port. I am getting a hyper 7 rtr in about 2 weeks and thats I what plan on racing. I am getting the RB WS7 II for it and new servos.

[BobT]

Multi-port engines like that 7-port are more commonly used in on-road cars. They favor top-end speed rather than low-end torque. Three port engines like the Picco .12 Roar leagal will normally have better low-end grunt, all other factors being equal.

My favorite engine for racing is this little beuty.

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN6507

There is no greater joy than beating a guy with a $300 engine with a well tuned $80 engine. :D

[dicko]

I like the Hitec high-speed metal-geared servo for the stearing. I use any standard servo for the throttle. The Hitec is cheap too compared to other similar servos.

For a cheap engine that is really reliable the TTR .15 range is good. They are dead easy to tune & just keep on going. Just get the 2 needle carbie though. I still need the clutch bell to tune my OS engine in. I have got all my other orders allready (I ordered them on friday) but I am still waiting on the clutch bell. Hopefully I'll get it sometime this week.

Let us know how the 7 port goes if you get it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[cammo_man]

Hey all, I just ran my Nitro Evader for the first time tonight... you know that saying: "If your not breaking anything, your not having fun." Well I was having a blast! And I broke the front shock mount. I know I can just send it in and get it replaced free, but I want to upgrade to. I havn't found an aluminum front shock mount from duratrax so I was wondering if any of you knew of a aluminum front shock mount that will fit?

-Josh

[Noff]

New items coming from Duratrax:

DTXC9263 Aluminum Front Shock Tower Evader ST / Nitro Evader ST

DTXC9264 Aluminum Rear Shock Tower Evader ST / Nitro Evader ST.

Due in next month according to Tower.

[cammo_man]

cool thanks.

-Josh

[dicko]

My parts finally arrived. I have enough parts now to run in the new OS engine. Now we'll see what this car can do. I have to get the clutch bell measured up first, and then wait for the weather to cool down. It's still 35 deg C plus all week with 40 deg C on the week end. Doesn't look like cooling down anytime soon either. If this was Europe it would be a heat wave. It may be a long wait before I get a chance to run this engine in.

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Originally posted by dicko
My parts finally arrived. I have enough parts now to run in the new OS engine. Now we'll see what this car can do. I have to get the clutch bell measured up first, and then wait for the weather to cool down. It's still 35 deg C plus all week with 40 deg C on the week end. Doesn't look like cooling down anytime soon either. If this was Europe it would be a heat wave. It may be a long wait before I get a chance to run this engine in.

Cheers
Dicko.

You will not get any simpathy from this side of the big blue marble. A 30 degree Farinheit day here has been considered a heat wave. That's just under 0 deg C. We are looking forward to Spring. :)

Get the OS mounted and fire that baby up! Be sure you are in a wide open area the first time you lean it and pull full throttle. :eek: :D :cool:

[dicko]

I've cooked one engine in the heat before. this is one engine that will be looked after. I plan on running it in after work one night when the temperature drops below 30 Deg C. Last night it was still 32 after 7 pm. Great drinking weather.

I rebuilt my shocks last night with 80W oil & put the hard (green) springs on them. They are now acting like shocks and not pogo springs. I can't wait to get this baby going.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Coldkilla]

have anybody been haveng any trouble with the evader carb? i have, the low speed needle keep coming a loose and while playing to open it up at full trottle and i tryed to put tread lock or on it but it just acks up.... is there any other carb that will work with the .18 dtx engine that is better than the stock? send a link or thing

[dicko]

I've had that trouble with the mixture needle, I had to replace the needle, if the thread becomes loose it will wind itself in when you accelerate. A new needle with a clean thread should stop winding in by itself. You may be able to get it under warranty.

[Coldkilla]

ill just have to send that one back to them?

[clodkiller]

clodkilla u must sweat my beast name u stole it !

[Coldkilla]

does it realy matter?

[BobT]

Once we get our low-end needle set correctly we cover it with high-temp RTV so it will not move or leak.

Once this needle is set correctly it never has to be touched again as it sets the differencial between the low and high end. You just adjust the top end needle which affects both high and low ranges but the ballance between them never needs to be changed once the low-end needle is set.

[chevy_94]

What is the biggest tank that will fit the Evader?.... that lil ol 75 cc tank isn't cutting it

[chevy_94]

i put aluminum front knuckle arms on but still have the plastic hub carriers and when i done that and hooked everything back up the steering don't work. Any info would be nice. Since i have had this Evader it has been prob after prob.

[BobT]

Originally posted by chevy_94
i put aluminum front knuckle arms on but still have the plastic hub carriers and when i done that and hooked everything back up the steering don't work. Any info would be nice. Since i have had this Evader it has been prob after prob.

Chevy,

Without the truck in front of me I can't say for sure what's wrong. However you can figure it out. Try moving the front wheels back and forth. Is it too tight or just as smooth as it was before? If its tight take each part off one at a time and check for binding. Remove the wheels so you can see what you are doing. pop the steering links and see if the hubs are binding. If they are then keep going until you find what is binding.

More than likely your hub is binding in the new hub-carrier. File binding areas or remove excess washers etc till everything moves easy.

Sorry I can't help more than that.

[BobT]

I almost forgot. If its not binding check your steering servo connections. The main plug into the receiver and each of the three wires going into that plug. Sometimes the pins push them out as you insert the plug.

Just take a toothpic and push them back into the plug while its still in the receiver. I had an ESC do that to me once and it had me baffled for a while. :D

[chevy_94]

Yeah its prolly a connection or its binding somewhere but i am about to get rid of it for whatever anyone will give me for it cause i am getting a Hyper 7 PBS. If anyone on here wants it i have alot of extra parts and alot of tires also. I have about 4 sets of tires front and rear shock tower and a-arms front and rear and 2 spur gears and i just put those aluminum front knuckle arms on it and the guy that had it before me only ran a quart of fuel through it and i only have ran about 5 tanks through it at the most . anyone interested?

[Coldkilla]

how much u talkin for any of the parts?

[Coldkilla]

i got a nother problem when my evader i have about 9tanks of gas in it and when i try to fully gas the car it ack like it dont want to. like when im driving then try to put it at top speed it, it speeds up then slows down and ack like its about to cut off so i sopt doin that. but other than that the car is fine but i cant realy gas the car. have anybody had this problem with there evader or can help me with, that would help.........

[dicko]

sounds like you are running it too lean. richen it up & you will be fine. once you have the high speed mixture right you can use the low speed mixture to adjust the low end to keep your acceleration. if you keep running it lean you will wear out the piston & liner.

[Coldkilla]

ok yea plus its cold out side so thanks...... what do u think is the best settings for the low speed needle?

[dicko]

that changes with each engine, but once you find the right setting you won't need to change it. once you have got the car running well at top speed, you than want to adjust the low speed needle. if the car is accelerating slowly wind the needle in (clockwise) 1/8th of a turn and see if that accelerates better. keep turning the screw small amounts until you find the right setting. after you have this set you will only need to adjust your high speed needle.

Do your high speed needle first. you may not need to adjust your low speed needle, only adjust it if you don't have good acceleration.

Cheers
Dicko.

[chevy_94]

Ill sell everything for $300 or best offer truck, four sets of tires, and alot of extra parts and the tires are brand new except for one set which has been run for only three tanks.

[Coldkilla]

i tryed to mess with the car a lil bit out side and it still couldnt reach top speed... ill just have to mess with it more 2morrow. it was cold out side so i came in. but ill try to mess with it a lil more

[dicko]

once you get it running, wind the mixture screw out a few turns (keep the engine running) then get the engine up to temperature running it rich. once it is up to temperature start to wind the needle in an 1/8th of a turn at a time until it is running at top speed without stalling out (then wind it out 1/8th to 1/4 turn- the engine will lean out when the tank gets empty) you should do this everytime you start the car on your first run, the mixture will change with different weather conditions, ie temperature & humidity.

good luck

Dicko.

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by chevy_94
Ill sell everything for $300 or best offer truck, four sets of tires, and alot of extra parts and the tires are brand new except for one set which has been run for only three tanks.

Where are you located?

Do you have a detailed list of everything included?

Any pictures?

[chevy_94]

I have the truck of course and i have duratrax new just installed and never ran front knuckle arms,2 spur gears, front and rear a-arms,Proline Dirt Works, proline masher 2000,proline Speed Hawgs,Proline Sand Paw. pics i will get soon. Im from South Carolina

[chevy_94]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=154824

[evaderstman]

Hey where in south carolina are you i might buy the masher 2000 off of you i am in greenville but i only have a little bit of money since i just bought a pet bearded dragon

[BobT]

With the discussion on engine tuning in mind remember, when it gets colder outside it does not mean you can tune your engine leaner. Cold air is denser. In other words there is more oxygen per cubic inch. That means the engine is already running leaner than it was in warmer weather provided you have not changed the high-end needle.

Start your engine and warm it up. If it seems to have more top end you may be on that fine edge between perfect tune and too lean. Check it with a temp gauge to insure it is not running too lean. If you don't have a temp gauge play it safe and richen the high-end needle one hour (1/12th) or 1/8th turn.

Also remember when its cold plastic is more brittle and will break much easier. Make like George of the jungle and watch out for that tree!
:D

[dicko]

Keep that bearded dragon outside with plenty of natural sunlight. I have bread them before as well as eastern water dragons. I still keep reptiles, my hobby room has 2 ends with reptile enclosures & my rc desk in the middle. mainly snakes & goannas now. plus a home brew cupboard on the side. love my beer.

it's still far too hot to run nitro engines here, we had 45 & 42 degrees saturday & sunday here, (thats deg C). looks like it may cool down this week end, I'm hanging to run this new engine in.

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

thanks for the info but he stays inside under a uvb light and is 7" long right now and he crapped on my leg about 5 minutes ago so i am mad at him do you still have any of them?

[dicko]

no i got rid of them. i am looking at getting some sand goannas now. there is no substitute for sunlight. in winter i kept them outside in a heated cage. they are very susceptibe to calcium deficiency. I used to go down to the sand dunes by the beach as a kid & collect them. they are very common here where I live.

[chevy_94]

I live right below Simpsonville not far from G'ville unless what part you are talkin about. Have you ever heard of greenpond road cause i live right next to the go-kart track where they race.

[Coldkilla]

thanks dicko that helped a lot now all i got to do it mess with the mixure needle and i will be set to go. how long do it take for duretrax to send some parts back?

[dicko]

I live in Australia & sent some stuff to the hobby shop, who in turn sent it to duratrax last october, they don't expact a reply till end of Feb-March. Don't hold your breath.

[Coldkilla]

im better off just special ordering it from the local hobby store and get the parts in 3days

[dicko]

Yep, pretty much. I bought new parts & I will use the replacements as spares. My local hobby shop where I bought the car will give me the replacement if I break a warranty part. But the warranty part I sent back caused another part to break, so they were seeing if they could get both parts for me under warranty.

I found out the fuel tank I ordered is on back order, so I have to wait 2-3 weeks minimum before I get it. Why can't importers keep parts in stock??? If I had of known that they didn't have it in stock I would have ordered it through Tower. I may still cancel the order.

[Coldkilla]

dang man thats messed up, they make you think there car is good b/c they have the stress free thing but like u said it take forever to get the part back so in cases it no use.

[dicko]

If you bought it from a hobby shop you can take the parts to them & they will replace the part for you on the spot (if they have them in stock & participate in the replacement deal, if you bought it from them they should). They then send the part to their stockist/importer (duratrax or whoever) who then send the replacement or what ever arrangement they have to your hobby store. That is the advantage of using your local hobby shop. If you bought it through a mail order there isn't any after sales service & this is where it gets tricky. You then have to send the parts to duratrax yourself & wait in the queue. My local hobby shop is excellent, but their wholesalers can sometimes be a bit useless/slow. Most hobby shops will only replace the parts if you bought the car from them, otherwise people will keep breaking parts & go to different shops to claim the stress test on the same part. People who do this should take a good look at themselves, they are ripping the rest of us off. Support your local shop & they will support you. The guys know me by name, I'm not sure that is a good thing, maybe I spend too much time there:D ;)


Bit long winded, sorry.

I just ordered my fuel tank through tower with the swaybar. lets see how the swaybar works.

should know in a few days

Cheers
Dicko.

[BobT]

Dicko,

Its nice that your hobby shop will do the parts exchange for you but all hobby shops do not do that.

I work in our local hobby shop. Our shop and all the shops in our area have the same policy; the Duratrax guarentee is between the customer and Duratrax.

I just don't want anyone getting disapointed when they travel a long way to the shop. Call ahead and check what their policy is.

[Allen T]

Can OS "A3" plugs be used in the DTX 18 engine?

Thanks!

Allen T

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by Allen T
Can OS "A3" plugs be used in the DTX 18 engine?

Thanks!

Allen T

Yes, that is what I am using.

I have this one too, just haven't used it yet.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXABK8

[Coldkilla]

i was at the race track today and i broke my battery pack in back of my car and i was wondering if there was any better ones or a different place i could put batterys at?

[dicko]

To keep the car balanced you want to keep the battery pack at the rear, you can buy battery pack protectors (kinda like bumper bars for the rear) which help prevent them from breaking off.

I ran that OS CV-RX engine in on the weekend. Very nice engine, lots of power, lots of speed. This car screams along now. The car is considerably faster than when it had the 0.18 DTX in it. can't wait to get back down the track after work this week & give it a bit more of a work out.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Coldkilla]

where can i get a battery pack protectors at?

[dicko]

try typing it into a search on tower. I have seen one on RC universe thread that will fit, but i don't know what it is, or where they got it.

sorry.

[ND_RC]

This is what I use!! :)

http://a2nut.tripod.com/Evader/index.html

[Coldkilla]

where u get that from i need one bad.

[ND_RC]

I bought it off of Ebay. It was for a Traxxas Electric Rustler. I just modified it so it fits my Evader.

I do have a second one that has not been modified. I paid $25.00 for it shipped.

I would sell it for what I paid for it, if your interested. It is slightly used.

I can take Paypal.

Let me know.

[Coldkilla]

how long u think u will have that part?? im talkin about a week or so......

[ND_RC]

I should still have it in a week or two, I am not advertising it anywhere.

[Coldkilla]

ok coo im gone to grab that in a week and 25 shipped?

[ND_RC]

Yep, $25 shipped in the US only though. I should of asked before if you are in the US. :(

PM me when your ready to get it. :)

[Coldkilla]

yea im in the us,michigan and i will contact u as soon as im ready to buy it

[Coldkilla]

how did u modify the on u one your truck now? what did u need to have it fit? b/c if i need a drill i would have to go and buy a brand new one and i realy dont want to.

[UberRacer26]

I just got my Evader on Sat the 21st and I have about 12 tanks through it. The problem i'm having is getting the setting for the high speed needle right. I'm in Denver colorado at about 6000 ft so I'm sure the altitude has some impact on the engine. I have to make the setting really rich to even get it started and then once its running I have to close the needle a little bit to get it to run like it should. But then if the engine dies I have to turn the screw out about a half turn to even get the truck started again. I haven't even been able to run it with the body on because I have to mess with the needle every time the engine stops. This is my first nitro truck and I'm clueless. Anyone know what might be going on?

[BobT]

Originally posted by UberRacer26
I just got my Evader on Sat the 21st and I have about 12 tanks through it. The problem i'm having is getting the setting for the high speed needle right. I'm in Denver colorado at about 6000 ft so I'm sure the altitude has some impact on the engine. I have to make the setting really rich to even get it started and then once its running I have to close the needle a little bit to get it to run like it should. But then if the engine dies I have to turn the screw out about a half turn to even get the truck started again. I haven't even been able to run it with the body on because I have to mess with the needle every time the engine stops. This is my first nitro truck and I'm clueless. Anyone know what might be going on?

Sounds like you have your low-end needle too lean. Don't change anything untill you have the truck running. Use your present procedure to get started. Adjust the top end to run good.

Now let the truck idle. If the idle speed increases in a few seconds your low-end is too lean. Back out the low-end in 1/8 turns untill the idle stays steady for at least 8 seconds. After 8 seconds the idle may slow down or stay the same, either is ok. You just don't want it to increase in speed.

Hope this helps.

Dicko,

I knew you would like that engine. Hey heard about your heat wave on the radio this morning. Keep cool dude. :cool:

[UberRacer26]

Thanks for the tips. When my car stops the idle actually goes down about 2 seconds after the car is fully stopped. But I will try your suggestion. Is there anyone else who is operating their car at higher altitudes?

[dicko]

BobT,

we had a cool change - 30ish deg C- so I ran the engine in during the cool evening. It's heating up again now though. Good beach weather.

Cheers
Dicko

I run my car at sea level. sorry can't help, but try what bob suggested, it is a good way to tune in your engine.

[dicko]

I broke both my trucks yesterday. It's been the first breakeage for a while. My DT-10 lost the grub screw on the exhaust pipe which resulted in a sudden burst of lots of noise, and also broke the front shock cup as well. Spares are a handy things to have. That car is up & running all ready. I had a cartwheel with the evader & bent the rear cv joint, oh well may as well keep running till it snaps, one more cartwheel later & I bent the other cv joint and snapped the ball stud on the rear hub. D'oh. no spares for that one. I ordered new CV joints, new clutch bell, packet of studs, rims & tyres today. Need some spares for the race on the weekend. Hope it arrives in time.

Yes, the off road racing is back on. I hope the weather is cool enough to run the nitro trucks. I'm looking forward to seeing how my evader stands up against the others out there.

[JDuncan]

What would be a good exhaust to upgrade my evader?

[JDuncan]

So has anybody done any good upgrades lately? Right now I am trying to get an HPI Procceed 125cc tank to fit in my evader.

[dicko]

I put the associated RC10GT tank in my evader. I also put the sway bar kit on it. it works pretty well & helps stop the car roll around fast corners. I've also upgraded the engine to an OS CV-RX.

[evaderstman]

hey the only upgrade i have done is to upgrade to maxx masher 2000's with hpi nitro mesh rims in crome but i just stripped a spur gear trying them out it's my first one i've stripped i plan to get the rc10 tank and to upgrade the stearing servo when i get money.

[evaderstman]

another question my car will not idle for more then 3 seconds when i let up on the trottle does anyone know the cause of the problem

[BobT]

another question my car will not idle for more then 3 seconds when i let up on the trottle does anyone know the cause of the problem

There are several possible reasons. It's either too lean, too rich, your idle is set too low or the clutch is hanging up.

Try raising the idle speed first. Set it just high enough that the clutch does not engage and spin the wheels. If the throttle closes when you hit the breaks your idle screw is not set right. Idles has to be set with the screw not the throttle trim on your radio. If not the carb can close and shut down the engin when you apply the breaks.

If it idles at all the clutch is ok.

What does it do before it dies?

Does it speed up or slow down? If idle speed increases your low-end needle is too lean. Richen the low-end so the idle stays consistant for at least 8 seconds. If it stays steady or slows after 8 seconds you are good there.

Make all needle adjustments no more than 1/8th turn at a time. The difference between just right and too much or too little is a super-small adjustment. :eek: Take it easy. :cool:

[2strokesmoke]

Hey all, I just took the Evader out today after a long cold winter. I had forgotten how much power that OS .18 has. I was having a blast till the rear shock tower busted. I did many jumps and a few crashes, she held up well considering the abuse I gave her.

Anyone got any ideas on getting a little better traction. I have Bow ties on My T-Maxx and it hooks up real well. So I dont want to change the factory bow ties on my Evader. I guess Ill have to just get used to 2 wheel drive again after only driving 4 wheel drives this winter on ice and snow.

[dicko]

Always the way, get the car out for the first run in a while & you always end up breaking something. Try backing off your slipper clutch till you get used to the 2 wheel drive again.

[BobT]

Anyone got any ideas on getting a little better traction. I have Bow ties on My T-Maxx and it hooks up real well. So I dont want to change the factory bow ties on my Evader. I guess Ill have to just get used to 2 wheel drive again after only driving 4 wheel drives this winter on ice and snow.

Loosening the slipper will help. I have to agree with you about the .18 it really cranks. A customer brought his into the shop and I fixed his clutch.

The clutch spring had come loose and damaged the end hook. I cut off 3 or 4 loops and made a new hook. By shortening the spring it put more tension on the clutch making it engage at a higher RPM.

We then tested the truck in front of the store. Can you say WHEELIE??? It was great for a while until the idler gear in the tranny disintegrated. I was so embarrassed. We had no replacement gears in the shop. But the customer was thrilled to see his new truck with all that power. The slipper is now loose and the idler gear is on order. :o

[dicko]

Try the truck with the OS 15 CV-RX. Then you'll see it really fly. I have the slipper a fair way out & can still pull wheelies on the street. & i only run on the street with my old scrubbed tyres. On dirt it still spins up, just have to be gentle on the throttle. My gearbox has yet to fail. Now that I have said that, I bet it goes in the middle of a race this weekend. Hmm, no time to go get a spare either.

[BobT]

Dicko,

The slipper on the truck I was running was locked down. The idler gear may have survived if I had checked that first. What amazes me is how rich the engine was and could still deliver that kind of power. :eek:

[dicko]

The slipper on these trucks tends to wind itself on with use. The engine is pretty grunty, mine is off to get checked out under warranty. The piston & liner is worn & they offer a 2 year warranty on the engine??????? The break in instructions that come with the car tell you to run it in with the needle set 1.5 turns out, far to lean & a lot of people have had problems with compression loss as a result. I have heard of a few people getting whole new engines under warranty, I'll be happy if they replace the piston & liner. the rest of the engine is fine. The O.S. is holding up well though. just need a few more trucks to show up to the races.

[BobT]

Thanks for the heads-up Dicko. Sounds like the slipper could use a washer or two between the nut and the spring to keep it from tightening. :cool:

[Qube]

Can anyone tell me what the correct size of the Wheel Nut is? I've been looking around at the literature and haven't got a clue :mad: That's TWO good running days missed because of it :eek:

[Qube]

Can anyone tell me what the correct size of the Wheel Nut is? I've been looking around at the literature and haven't got a clue :mad: That's TWO good running days missed because of it :eek:

So it's either...

DTXC8236.........3/16" Locknut
DTXC8237.........4-40 Locknut
DTXC8240.........3mm Locknut

Although it looks almost like a 3/16", the threading (#10-24(3/16)) looks different. Any help? :o

[guver]

It's a 10-32 thread

[evaderstman]

hey dicko did you get that steel spur gear yet? I just put on a new one and stripped it in half of a tank of gas and was wondering if i could pay your friend to make me up one or two of them?

[dicko]

I am going to run the plastic spur gear with a stainless clutch bell. The spur gears are cheap, the clutch bells aren't. The guys are flat out with other work at the moment, but once they have some time to measure up the original it won't take them too long. I have been waiting 2 months now, so I'm not going to hold my breath, they are doing it cheap for me.

I raced the evader on the weekend, 3 2nd & 2 3rd places. considering I was racing on an electric track against electric stadium trucks & 4wd buggies, I don't think that was too bad. I averaged 11.5 laps in 5 minutes, a short & twisty track, not ideal for the nitro trucks, but it was a blast catching them down the straights. I only damaged my front bumper & went through 2 air filters (it was very dusty) the associated tank lasts just over 5 minutes with the OS 15 CV-RX. So there was no extra weight carried in fuel. The car handled very well, the only thing I will change its to jack the front suspension up to the max to dull down the stearing a bit. It is a bit too twitchy at the moment, I have it set at second from highest setting on the front.

[avngths1]

i was hoping someone could help me im looking to get more speed out of my nitro evader st so im wondering what tips you might have for someone new to the sport such as what a good engine would be to swap with the stock one or other methods of doing this?

[BobT]

If your not getting great speed out of the stock motor you don't have it tuned right. The Evaders I have tuned for customers have been balistic.

A larger clutchbell gear or smaller spur will also increase top-end speed on any RC car or truck.

[avngths1]

i am getting good speed out of it ill just put it this way my buddies got a traxxas nitro rustler and im looking to beet him plus i just want more speed

[avngths1]

i am getting good speed out of it ill just put it this way my buddies got a traxxas nitro rustler and im looking to beet him plus i just want more speed

if you know of a site where i can find a larger clutchbell gear or a smaller spur i would appreciate your help with this

[BobT]

All you have to do to beat a Rustler is race around an off road race course. He has more speed for drag racing but you have a much better handling truck.

If both are well maintained and have equal drivers your Evader will turn faster lap times.

Maintain your shocks, set your car up with 1 to 2 degrees of camber at each wheel and practice your driving skills. That N Rustler will not stand a chance. ;)

[dicko]

I agree, practise racing around a track, if you don't have one make one with tight turns & jumps in between. You will have him pulling his hair out. I race against electric trucks & they kill me through the turns, but I catch right back up down the straights. If we had a rustler on the track as well it'd be getting whipped.

I put an OS CV-RX in my truck & it did increase top end speed, but I lost a tiny bit of low end grunt.

[EvaderBX]

im thinking about getting one of these or the nitro bx. Are they the same speed? How fast are they? R they any good? Post some pics and some review about em. thnx

[princessjen]

Hey Guys!

I just got my nitro evader, RTR... I love it, i am really really new to this game and i wondered if someone can suggest some hop up parts for my truck???

Thanks!!
- Jenny

[EvaderBX]

hey jenny,
http://duratrax.com/cars/dtxd62e.html
all the hop-ups you need!
doug

[Mastec]

There is a fix for the stock servo saver. This fix will keep you from stripping servo saver gears. Take the servo saver apart, the coil spring is too long for what it is supposed to do. Using a dremel tool with a cutting whell remove one coil from the spring. The upper and lower servo saver arms need to be sanded with fine sandpaper to make them slide more smoothly together. In their new condition they have mold flash from the factory.

After 1 week of bashing mine I stripped out my gears and replaced them. I did this fix and still using the same gears I replaced the broken ones with. That was almost 3 months ago and still working fine.

[Mastec]

Hey Guys!

I just got my nitro evader, RTR... I love it, i am really really new to this game and i wondered if someone can suggest some hop up parts for my truck???

Thanks!!
- Jenny

Checkout this link - very helpful - http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

[dicko]

I replaced the fuel tank, engine & stearing servo. I put in an associated RC10 GT tank, OS 15 CV-RX engine & Hitec HS625 MG servo. you will go through stearing servos unless you get a metal geared one. they take a beating.

[evaderstman]

hey i have added a few things to my evader a stage 2 cooling head from duratrax which keeps the engine much cooler, a fuel filter for off roading,and max masher 2000's on hpi nitro mesh rims which are great tires for bashing.

[KC8WLB]

how fast is it?

[Mastec]

I picked up my new custom clutch bell, perfect replacement. The associated pinions screw onto it. The factory bell is a 15t, I added a 20t. OMG does it fly ... tires were ballooning like crazy. This weekend I am gonna pick up a 27t and probably rip the tires off the rims. LOL

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/thumbnails/96709/Rp43889.jpghttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/thumbnails/96709/Up48091.jpghttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/thumbnails/96709/Hm22696.jpg

[guver]

can someone tell me which roto-start engine plate will work on the os 18 in this evader???. I know the savage one will not the bolt pattern is too close together.

[evaderstman]

hpi makes a .18 engine does it have a roto start

[guver]

I'm not sure, I used the one from a savage on the thunderquake, it bolts right on, but the evader engine is much bigger bolt pattern.

[BobT]

can someone tell me which roto-start engine plate will work on the os 18 in this evader???. I know the savage one will not the bolt pattern is too close together.

Guver,

Have you considered a standard starter box? If you can't find the roto-start plate guaranteed to fit your engine a starter box could be your next best choice.

It will also work with any engine you put in your Evader in the future. A new box ready to start your car.

A good example is THIS ONE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU2&P=0) from OFNA. You will need a automobile battery charger that will charge at 1.5 amps ( not a nicad or nimh charger).
Walmart carries this great little charger for $17. See the VEC070 1.5 AMP On Board Auto Float Charger HERE! (http://www.janwp.com/vector_marine.htm)

[evaderstman]

you could also try a yank eliminater from hg in is basically a drill starter and costs about 20 bucks tower has them

[evaderstman]

hey i decided to sell my evader anyone interested in it here is a link http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169262

[guver]

Mine is for sale too

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/search.php?searchid=35910&pp=15&page=2

[BobT]

I hope you two are staying with the hobby and selling your Evaders is just a way of progessing :o .

[guver]

I'm definatly staying, just a little frusrated with nitro. I like the power/speed but not the mess and the tuning. In fact electric is on probation with threats to go brushless and li-po too...haha

I don't like cutting comms and swapping batts either. I didn't imagine the work when getting into this hobby. It's kinda fun, but gets boring after awhile to get 6-10 runs out of a motor. I think my stock e-maxx has been the best thing goin' for me anyways.

[evaderstman]

i am staying just i want a monster truck

[BobT]

Good to hear!

Nitro is the most fun when they work.
But they are the most frustrating when they don't.

I always recomend electric to those just starting out. There is plenty to learn before you start messing with nitro. :D

[Qube]

There's a 'roto' start made by another company. I forget who they were called. Looked them up in the latest RC Driver. Tower Hobbies carries them, but numerous queries come up dry. I know they have them because I put two of them in my shopping cart a while back but never bought it... had the $10 off $30 coupon.

[guver]

I think you're talking about that 90 degree one that swivels, but will it fit the os18 ?

[Qube]

This one right here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXGFK2&P=V

[tl_ke_racer]

hey my freind needs some help on his nitro evader st, we tried messin with the idle screw because when u hit the breaks it closes the carb and the engine dies, but no matter which way its turned it doesnt help at all.

[BobT]

Sounds like the throttle screw may be stripped. Pull the air cleaner and see if the idle screw is opening the barrel. If not the screw is stripped and will have to be replaced.

[sniper_iron_man]

i want to see some movies of the nitro evader .

[evaderstman]

i have some but have no way to upload them but i might try making some on my digi cam

[evaderstman]

hey i was wondering if any of you have lost the pin in the rear axels i just lost both of them and was wondering if this is common

[guver]

I always have to pull mine out, they're usually bent from the wheel being to tight.

[evaderstman]

no i am talking about the ones in the middle part 117 in the manual

[guver]

I lose the electric ones all the time, but haven't lost the nitro ones.

[evaderstman]

where do you buy replacements for them my hobby town doesn't carry them so i bought a piece of rod and cut it to length

[salredEvaderST]

OK I'm a newbie.....

My son & I got the Nitro Evader ST and we run dirt and asphalt, I was wondering if the Duratrax DTXC9881 & DTXC9721 would work on the evader?

or does anyone have suggestions on cheap set of street tires and wheels for the evader?

[evaderstman]

go with proline speed hawgs they work good and just get some cheep wheels for them like the duratrax ones anyway good luck with the car

[evaderstman]

nope niether work those are 2 inch tires you need 2.2 inch tires like these
rims (you need a front and rear set they are different)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD74&P=0
tires these are all terrain and fit those rims perfectly
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD74&P=0
street
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU17&P=0
that should help you out but check to see what your lhs has to they might have a sale or something

[salredEvaderST]

Thanks evaderstman for the info.

I'll sure look at those, we'll need to get two sets (we each have a truck) so I'm trying to keep the cost down as much as possible.

I'm a little confused are the front and rear wheel not the same? All the dimensions match but they sell one as front and one as rear.....

We've worked these several times but never had to mess with the tires yet.

[guver]

rear have a pin drive, fronts are just round to accept 2 bearings.

[evaderstman]

ya for the rear wheels that i showed you will need some adapters because those rims are ment for a hex drivebut the adapters only cost 2 or 3 dollars and for the front you can just put in the bearings from the stock tires just pop them out and put in new ones

[jjmag26]

I'm pretty new to nitro cars and can't beleive the speed and power of my evader. I spent most of the day tuning and got it to run at 220 degrees and it is hard to control at even half throttle put it on the asphalt and forget about the front tires even touching the ground. I would reccomend this truck to everyone.

[Qube]

URGENT QUERY.

Rebuilding the DTX .18...

What direction does the piston face? There's the large hole on the side as the marker. Which way does the hole face?

[dicko]

check your instruction manual, there is an exploded diagram of the engine, you should be able to see from that how to put the piston & liner together. if it is the wrong way round, the engine wont rev properly, you'll know.

[Mastec]

Here is my updated Nitro Evader with the Crowd Pleazer body...

http://home.comcast.net/~w.howardjr/29109206917_330_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~w.howardjr/29108713349_330_2.jpg

Next project is to remove the chrome off the wheels and dye them blue.

[dicko]

very nice.

[Mastec]

Thank You :)

[evaderstman]

that looks nice what all do you have on it