DuraTrax Nitro Evader ST forum

[Mastec]

Upgrades so far.....

OS .12 cv-rx (Racing)
DTX .18 (Fun)
Custom made clutch bell
Assortment of aluminum pinions for clutch bell
56t spur gear
Custom made aluminum front bumper
Blue RPM rod ends
Front bulkhead braces
Graphite shock towers
Graphite front suspension arms
Aluminum tranny gears
Carbide diff balls
Carbide thrust balls
Blue Shock Sox
Striker II tires
RPM Talonz

[dicko]

I have so far upgraded to

OS 15 CV-RX
Associated fuel tank
JR XS 3 radio
Hitec HS625MG stearing servo
Proline rims & tyres
Aluminium rear hubs
aluminium idler & diff gear with carbide bearings throughout.
Green shock springs with 55 weight oil

So far it performs really well at the race. the only thing i am looking at doing is dropping an associated axhaust on it.

[dicklarry]

does anybody know if u can but an ez start on the evader st???? ive gone through 3 pullstarts and im sick of it

[evaderstman]

alright i found a fix for the axle pin thing go buy some 1/2 inch heatshrinktake apart your axle slide a piece over the joint and shrink it on just beware it wont shrink down enough to cover the actual axle

[Mastec]

You can also use those long thin balloons for making animals cut into 1/2 inch pieces.

[jjmag26]

Just wondering if anybody has dealt with sending in an engine for repairs. I just want to know if they fixed it under warranty or did they ask for extra money, how long did it take, and how was it dealing with them overall. I'm asking because I sent my motor of this morning and want to know if they will give me a hard time trying to get it fixed. Just curious.

[Mastec]

I sent an engine in to get repaired. They replaced it with a brand new engine no questions asked. (Broken sleeve, broken connecting rod, fused bearings) I live an hour drive from Hobby Services and it normally takes one week for them to get it, fix it and ship it back to me. Well thats what happened for my brother with his .18, when I sent mine in they were out of stock and had mine on backorder. Took a month for them to get new engines in. If they were to repair it it would have been a week.

[jjmag26]

did you send the whole car or just the motor. I took the motor out and just sent that.

[Mastec]

Just the motor. I took everything off, even the glow plug, except the manifold and pullstarter. They sent a new glow plug with the new engine so then I had two.

[jjmag26]

Thanks for the info

[sniper_iron_man]

im havin a problem with my engine to doesnt want to start anymore lol i dont know whats up with it ive tried everything well anyways... im thinking about sedding it in cuz it hasnt even been 90 days well do i just send it in i dont have to write anything or what? whats the deal? help pleaz

[yardmachine]

got a nitro evader,that runs great when it wants too. checked all the normal stuff, fuel lines,filter,tank/seal,glowplug and carb all are good. the problem it has it wont prime the fuel system?

[Mastec]

Did you try putting your finger over the hole in the pipe and pull the starter? It only takes 2 or 3 pulls to get fuel to the engine.

[DJevader]

What I would like to know is, anyone else having this type of problem? It starts off with the engine becoming hard to start when warm, then it will die whenever the engine returns to idle and be extremely hard to start, next it will die when returning to idle and be impossible to start, finally it won't start no matter what.

DJ

[Mastec]

Sounds like the rotary opening is not open enough, so when you let off the throttle it is closing and killing the engine. Have you tried adjusting it with the throttle trim?

[yardmachine]

yep put finger over the stinger and it dont prime at all . pressure tested muffler and its good. did find crack in header flange and gasket. did the rc10gt gas tank . r&r gasket and header. and it runs,primes and idles like a raped ape again.

[yardmachine]

What I would like to know is, anyone else having this type of problem? It starts off with the engine becoming hard to start when warm, then it will die whenever the engine returns to idle and be extremely hard to start, next it will die when returning to idle and be impossible to start, finally it won't start no matter what.

DJ
had the same problem at one time. try adjusting the idle speed screw. or adjust with the trim for the throttle. if thease dont work check and see if the linkage arm on the carb didn't move due to the nut backing off. make your low speed needle is not set too lean.

[BobT]

It is important to set your throttle linkage and carb so the carb does not close when you apply the brakes.

Nitro newbies will often make the mistake of setting their idle speed using throttle trim on the radio instead of setting it with the idle screw on the carb. When the newbie applies brake and the idle screw is set to let the carb to close completely it stalls the engine when the carb closes.

The correct way to adjust idle is to turn the idle screw clockwise to raise idle speed or counter-clockwise to lower the speed.

When set correctly the carb arm will not move when you go from neutral to full brake but will open the carb fully when given full throttle.

[evaderstman]

i have decided to keep the evader and mod it for racing and bashing i will add a os .15cv-rx and a stanless steel screw kit since mine has lots of stripped screws what all would you guys recomend i don't want a lot of aluminium like towers and arms so what would you recomend i will also add a associated fuel tank so what else it is stripped now and i can add anything

[BobT]

i have decided to keep the evader and mod it for racing and bashing i will add a os .15cv-rx and a stanless steel screw kit since mine has lots of stripped screws what all would you guys recomend i don't want a lot of aluminium like towers and arms so what would you recomend i will also add a associated fuel tank so what else it is stripped now and i can add anything

To do well in 1/10th Scale Gas Truck racing your truck must be dependable. Look for parts to make your truck bullet-proof.

To finish first you must first finish the race.

Be sure your track allows .15 engines. Many require ROAR standard .12 engines.

Good luck!

[evaderstman]

they are allowed here is the tracks rules http://www.carolinarc.com/cssclasses.html

[evaderstman]

it says you can run a cvec pipe are they any good and would they help

[BobT]

The CVEC pipe helps an engine that is not well tuned run better. If your motor and stock pipe are tuned correctly it will run as fast as a CVEC.

[evaderstman]

alright i have a problem with ball cups popping off is there a way to fix that other than that most stuff is good and the tranny gears look great so i am not going to replace them with aluminium

[BobT]

alright i have a problem with ball cups popping off is there a way to fix that other than that most stuff is good and the tranny gears look great so i am not going to replace them with aluminium

Yes, you can replace the standard ball-cups and ball ends with Traxxas captured ball ends and a washer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v84/Bob_T/In%20The%20Pits/064308.jpg

It may require you to use longer turnbuckles but it is worth it. You can use simple washers. I just used the blue cone washers because they look cool.

Hope this helps.

[evaderstman]

alright thanks for the help bobT what else have you upgraded on your car

[Mastec]

alright i have a problem with ball cups popping off is there a way to fix that

You can also replace them with the long blue RPM ball cups. They are stronger and dont pop off as easy. I have yet to have one pop off during a race or a bashing session. A whole set is under $5.00.

[evaderstman]

alright thanks mastec another question i am planning on buying a mugen mt .12 or another rear exhoust .12 engine and was wondering what a good exhaust was for one

[BobT]

alright thanks for the help bobT what else have you upgraded on your car

Well mine is a Losi XXX-NT and a week point were the plastic pivot blocks to which the A-arms mount. I replaced the plastic pivots with aluminum units from Trinity.

An up-grade that any RTR truck can benefit from is a faster, stronger, ball-bearinged, metal geared steering servo. It makes your truck feel much more stable.

[evaderstman]

ya i am putting a hitec one

[BobT]

ya i am putting a hitec one

My choice in Hitec servos would be the new 635HB (http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/hs635HB.htm)

[evaderstman]

i was going for something with more torque like the 645

[evaderstman]

sry double post

[BobT]

i was going for something with more torque like the 645

The 645 is strong and a good choice for a monster truck. However a stadium truck needs a quicker steering servo. The 645 is a tad slow. Counter-steering in slides and drifts requires a faster servo.

[evaderstman]

okay how much torque /speed would you recomend and also i now xxx-nt has soem parts the same as a evader but do you know which ones they are?

[BobT]

For stadium trucks you want at least 90 inch/oz of torque. As for speed .15 or faster will give your truck a whole new feel.

My favorite Hitec servo was the HS605MG. However it is no longer in production. Hitec replaced it with the 635. They say "if you liked the 605 you'll love the 635". That's why I recomended it to you.

Keep a close eye on your slipper clutch. The adjustment nut has a tendency to tighten up. This in turn puts more strain on the tranny comming off jumps. The idler gear is usually the first victum.

You can either double nut it or replace it with a better locking nut with a washer or two between the nut and the spring.

[evaderstman]

thanks what about the 625 one though?

[BobT]

The 625MG would be a good choice. I prefer metal geared servos for steering. They hold up much better than plastic.

[evaderstman]

alright got my car most of the way reassembled and i am having a problem with the rcscrewz kit i bought for it all of the screws seem to long or to short they are never the same size has any one experienced this before and alos when mounting a rc10 fuel tank what screws do you use since the ones that hold the stock tank on are counter shrunk and you can't drill those holes thanks for all the help

[evaderstman]

just finished reassembling it i put in the 625mg but it is two dark to drive i will test it tomorrow i also installed the rpm bumper that i have had since christmas but never installed it

[evaderstman]

pic1

[evaderstman]

pic 2

[evaderstman]

pic 3

[evaderstman]

last pic wasn't great but shows the stainless steel screws which fit nice other than being a little to long and it came with plenty of extras

[bseward]

Just wondering if anybody has dealt with sending in an engine for repairs. I just want to know if they fixed it under warranty or did they ask for extra money, how long did it take, and how was it dealing with them overall. I'm asking because I sent my motor of this morning and want to know if they will give me a hard time trying to get it fixed. Just curious.

I lost compresion on a DTX.18, sent it back to duratrax, and a week later got it back, rebuilt to new specs. The engine has become the "spare", because I put
a Wasp .18 in the truck while the DTX was out for the fix...

The 2 year warranty is a lifesaver for the racer on a budget.

The guys at our local track seem to lose a lot of these engines. Personally, I
think the DTX is very intolerant of over-lean mixtures. I'd run it rich, it seems to go just as fast, and I'll bet it lasts a lot longer. Some of the guys were cookin' them atfer 1 gallon! That seems wrong.

[cornflake]

Hello, just wanted to show my Nitro Evader Project, it was a basket case when I got it, but I have bought all new parts pretty much, I will post pics as I go, but here is my webpage with what I have done to it.. I just Powder Coated it today.
http://www.dskellogg.com/evader.htm

[whiteboy4u2990]

yah i got my evader in august i had problems with the dtx 18 engine constant. me and my friend where driving around this baseball diamond and cooked the engine after a half a gallon. i am getting the wasp 18 engine and it just seems like the dtx 18 is a very fussy engine and when i tried to start it the first time it took me 3 hours to get it running. personally i think the evader setup is great but they should put a different engine in it.

[wesleyburns]

Ive been doing on-road electric Tamiya TT01 racing for a while having great fun with it.

But now i want to get into off road gas for some fun on the side. Ive been looing around and the Duratrax Nitro Evader ST cars have a very attractive pricing and very cheap spares.

This car lookes very much like the Losi XXX buggy, but that costs almost 2x as much. After that would be the Savage 25 just a bit more thatn the Losi XXX.

So the question is, its eather the Duratrax or the Savage (MUCH more expensive than the Duratrax) to get into this whole game.

I want something thats fun, durable, and easy to work with.

What does everyone think about the duratrax? :confused:

[bob333]

you should wait a little while for the warhead to come out

[mrmac]

[QUOTE=wesleyburns]Ive been doing on-road electric Tamiya TT01 racing for a while having great fun with it.

But now i want to get into off road gas for some fun on the side. Ive been looing around and the Duratrax Nitro Evader ST cars have a very attractive pricing and very cheap spares.

This car lookes very much like the Losi XXX buggy, but that costs almost 2x as much. After that would be the Savage 25 just a bit more thatn the Losi XXX.

So the question is, its eather the Duratrax or the Savage (MUCH more expensive than the Duratrax) to get into this whole game.

I want something thats fun, durable, and easy to work with.
The duratrax evader is a great truck, motor is a little tempermental especially if you live in warm weather. Bought an after market cooling head, associated tank and an os 102 filter for it. Going on my third gallon of serious bashing and so far so good. Only problem is the battery box cant seem to keep it from breaking so I zip tid it to the front of the back shock towers and no more problems and it doesnt seem to change the handling at all...later

[supernitro_guy1]

i want one for christmas, budget is around $260, im almost sure I want one, anybody has any reason I shouldnt get one?

(My only previous nitro experience was breaking-in a T-maxx, thats it, so Im pretty much a newbe)

[rascoe]

My son give me his Nitro Evader. I am use to an HPI Savage. The Evader floods so easily. If I leave it set overnight, the pipe will pour out fuel if you tip the truck. Anyone else have this problem? Please reply.
rascoe@theramp.net

[rascoe]

i want one for christmas, budget is around $260, im almost sure I want one, anybody has any reason I shouldnt get one?

(My only previous nitro experience was breaking-in a T-maxx, thats it, so Im pretty much a newbe)

I just posted a message. The Evader is quick and "inexpensive". It is FRAGILE, and mine floods to the point that the tuned pipe "oozes" $23.00 per gallon fuel.

If your budget permits- go for the HPI Savage. I have 2 and in my opinion - it is almost indestructable. I have seen first hand that it will literally run right over top of the Evader. Speed on the Savage is UNREAL!!!!

[supernitro_guy1]

well, thats the proble,. budget, work doesnt give enough for a savage, not even a t-maxx :( , So Im looking for a nitro stadium truck, I got a nice back yard, pretty nice, short grass, a fre bums and small jumps and stuff like that, I wont race until im experienced and buy a .15 engine (.18 isnt allowed at my local track) I dont know, Im really looking at the xxx-nt, but its 300 at my LHS, and the rc10gt RTR plus is also around 300, But looking at them, they all seem great quiality, and I also like the 1 year plastic parts warranty, and the video instructions, and all the other nice stuff, but Im still pretty much undecided, HELP ME!!!!

[evaderstman]

Well the xxx-nt isn't very good to bash it is fairly fragile but will destroy the competition at the track. As for the evader it is pretty durable, but i hear the rc10gt is even more durable so get what ever you want.

[supernitro_guy1]

can any of you guys tell me about your experiences with your nitro evaders? And is you have had either the xxx-nt or a rc10gt, can you kinda compare them, ups and downs? thanks in advance

[andy479]

i plan on getting into rc within the next few weeks. my choices are the nitro evader, nitro rustler and the xtm x-cellerator. which is the best for a newbie? i'll be running it on gravel, dirt and mostly grass.

[supernitro_guy1]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=185625

read my report of the Nitro Evader, I recommend it, Im a newbie too, And I love it, Read it !!!!!

[Evaderisthebest]

My truck is brand new i got it for christmas and just finished breaking it in. But i have broke 2 left side cv drive shafts[after the break in]. I was wondering if this has happend to anyone else or does anyone know what the problem could be.
Thanks
Daniel

[evaderstman]

Well did they just brake or did you crash?

[Evaderisthebest]

I was just driving up and down the street.

[evaderstman]

So basically you were driving and it just fell apart? I find that really hard to believe and really can't help ya much.

[Evaderisthebest]

I went off road into a pile of leaves i went and put it back on the road hit the gas went down the road hit the breaks drove it back to me turned it around and it woud not go.

[supernitro_guy1]

thats weird, looking at my evdaer, I just dont see how it would come off without any of the other suspension parts not being broken or loose, was eveything around the shaft in good condition, I just dont see how it just broke, hope you find the problem.

[Evaderisthebest]

It's a new truck. Everything was fine the drive shaft was the onlything that broke. Get this 2 days later i broke another one on that same side. I just put another one on we will see if it breaks.

[supernitro_guy1]

thats weird man, good luck, my truck is doing great, not a problem yet.

[yardmachine]

My truck is brand new i got it for christmas and just finished breaking it in. But i have broke 2 left side cv drive shafts[after the break in]. I was wondering if this has happend to anyone else or does anyone know what the problem could be.
Thanks
Daniel
check the hub that the axel sits in, also make sure there is no binding of any sorts, hard to belive that two axel on the same side blew apart. never blew an axel apart, but the ball diff thats a differnt story.(plastic and nitro dont mix to well in a gear box) and yes it was adjusted right

[Kronos_Z]

From what I've seen, These things are quite fragile. I've run my truck through about 4 tanks of gas so far and broke the left front knuckle/hub twice already. The first time I did it going up a curb. I wasn't going very fast at all and it was a nice well rounded curb in front of my house. I never in a million years thought it would do any dameage or I would have just picked it up to get it into the yard. 2 days later I got new replacement parts and had at it again. this time it broke coming off of the yard going down to the sreet off of an angled curb about 6 inches high at my brother in laws house. I can't see how anything could have possibly happened there since there isn't even a bump or anything from the curb to the grass. and the exact same part broke.
All I can say is that I still have my original Ultima II (now at least 20 years old) and I have never broken a single part on it (and man did I put it through it's paces when I was a teenager).

[Evaderisthebest]

I put a 3RD drive shaft and some hard shocks on the rear and my evader is running great. I just placed order for a Dubro Blue Aluminum In-Line Fuel Filter, 1/10th Scale Glow Plug Cross Wrench, 1/10th Scale Blue Chrome Air Filter by IMEX, a Ofna Compact Failsafe, a glow plug, and a glow starter. what do you all think of this order? Has anyone used the HGI Yank Eliminator? I am thinking about getting one.
Thanks

[Kronos_Z]

Aside from obviously upgrading the front knuckle considering the problem's I've already had, What would be some good upgrades to consider for a stock Nitro Evader ST? This truck is probably going to be used mostly for play and if I ever do get into the racing I will probably go with an awd vehicle.

Thanks

[evaderstman]

As far as upgrades for the evader look at rcuniverse there is a whole thread on the evader with lots of good upgrades. i will post my list from there in a few minutes, but the best one is a the rc10gt fuel tank you have to drill the chassis but it is worth it.

[evaderstman]

Here is the list the only thing new i have done is fill the shocks with 35 wieght oil


dtx .18 engine(soon to be sealed so it won't suck in air)
associated fuel tank
rcscrewz stianlees stell screw kit
rpm wide front bumper(nitro rustler model modified)
ofna failsafe
st-15 clutch spring
dtx stage 2 cooling head
modified engine mount screws(so the heads don't scrape up)
assorted tires
aluminum brake nut
some rpm ballcups (with orings instead of foam washers underneath all ball cups)
dynamite ready start starter box


soon to be(christmas presents)
aluminum idler and diff gear with carbide balls
blue shock socks
rechargable reciever pack
other assorted things

[Kronos_Z]

I've heard the failsafe mentioned a couple of times. Is that the thing to kill the throttle in case of loss of contoll of the throttle? Also, what about a good stearing servo? Both my son and brother in law managed to trash their stearing servos the day they bought their cars. Any suggestions on a good one?

Thanks.

[evaderstman]

hs-625 it is great as for the fial safe get on they will really help

[Kronos_Z]

What orther rims will fit? I heard the RPM ones for losi will but are there others?

[evaderstman]

Proline velocities will also work and as for that servo i have one and it should be on that list.

[Kronos_Z]

Yea, A good solid servo for stearing is definateley on my list. I haven't had any trouple with the original one as of yet, but both my son and my brother-in-law broke theirs on the first day. :(

[Kronos_Z]

Going to go check out the proline wheels right now. If my wife ever sees my "wishlist" from Tower Hobbies she's going to think I've completeley lost it. lol

[JDAWG53]

Guys
It uses losi wheels on the front and Associated on the rear. TRC has some that work.

[haynosity]

I finally got my evader tuned in after about 8 tanks of fuel. I leaned it out enough to where it isnt spiting fuel out the pipe. I have heard to many people frying there DTX 18 by running too lean.

[GT Freak]

mastec, nice red x's you got there.

[Stadium]

Finished breaking in my Son's Evader ST and then worked on my own. Hated to put the after run oil in them. :D

[hession667]

does anyone know if a sirio .12 adam drake edition motor will work in a nitro evader st

[XTCRacing]

Could anyone recommend a good direct drop in engine for this truck? Any suggestions would be appreciated...

[hession667]

Could anyone recommend a good direct drop in engine for this truck? Any suggestions would be appreciated...
os.18cv-rx or cv-r

[XTCRacing]

os.18cv-rx or cv-r

Can you tell much difference in the performance with this engine than stock?(I assume you will)...How much better is it? My stock engine is close to 2 yrs old and is starting to lose it's gusto...time to replace her!!

[elad]

Is it normal for the gear mesh to be slightly noisey on the Nitro Evader?If i narrow the gap down its quieter but seems too tight for my liking?

[rico750sxi]

I have read this entire thread and noticed not many people have replaced their spurs. Does anyone have a link to a good replacement spur gear, I stripped mine today. It was the 7th tank of fuel through the truck. It may have been my fault though. I assumed the gear mesh was good from the factory and assumed the slipper was set good from the factory. I really should have checked those things before running it. Is anyone else stripping spur gears? Is it a common problem?
Thanks

[evaderstman]

You can use the buggy spur for a little more speed or any rc10gt spur will fit right on. The spurs don't strip often, but i have heard lots of people who's gear mesh wasn't set righ at the factory.

[rico750sxi]

I think that is what my problem was. Thanks

[supernitro_guy1]

I just bought some HPI 5-spoke chromes that came with the adapters, they're beautiful and fight right on with the adpater, no problems, oh yeah, i cant find my stock body, so gotta buy a new one, will the crowd pleaser by proline fit the nitro evader without modifications?

john

[jth_2008]

I have read this entire thread and noticed not many people have replaced their spurs. Does anyone have a link to a good replacement spur gear, I stripped mine today. It was the 7th tank of fuel through the truck. It may have been my fault though. I assumed the gear mesh was good from the factory and assumed the slipper was set good from the factory. I really should have checked those things before running it. Is anyone else stripping spur gears? Is it a common problem?
Thanks

Yeah im a new user here. Im not new to the evader st thoe, I got mine bout 2 years ago, i still have the resiete... (bad speller) i think it was like 6/14/05 but i dont know. The guy said if u want speed and durability that i should get this. He said it just came out. Yeah so i got it. But back to ur statment. Yeah man i have had bout 2 1/2 gallons of Traxxas Top Fuel 20% run thru this thing. I changed alot on it today. Tuned it alot. Then i got it running really good. I was sitting down, started it. Noticed the engine started getting really really fast. I looked down and sall the clutch was spinning super fast and the spur gear was nothing but a melted P.O.S. that damn clutches teeth melted it like butter. Well that that is the first time i had that problem, so i just got on tower hobbies and got a new one. I was hoppen they had an alluminem one. But just that nylon plastic stuff. I really dont know y they dont make it metal, cause having that metal clutch gear pushing on that plastic dont make much since. Besides it would look cool with a blue alluminen spur gear to go with my slotted blue alluminum fly-wheel... so yeah thats all

[revhead]

Im close to a track where offroaders are raced on a road track & i was wondering if you knew about if there is a 2-speed box that can fit on the evader?

[Khlept0]

I've put enough money into this pig without upgrading it much (replacments only) Time to either upgrade or move up the food chain.

I'm looking to add a little beef to my Evader, any suggestions?

[evaderstman]

Check out the evader forum on rcuniverse.com they have tons of info on evader upgrades.

[FlashLCD33]

I have a like-new evader ST in the BST.. completely restored.. FST. Excellent parts vehicle or just throw in a motor and it's a running beast.

[Khlept0]

After checking out amsterdams vid I'm going to try and duplicate that truck.

[alto_sir]

The nitro evader ST is my first RC car and I took it at my local hobby shop a month ago. I must say the Evader seem to be a good starting car if you are new in the hobby since I got everything I needed to run in the kit except the nitro.

The steering servo broke the third day after a short run in the grass, so I replaced the plastic gears for the Futaba S3003 and ordered a Hitec HS-645MG with metal gears and 133oz of torque and everything is ok since that new servo.

After reading your posts I fear for my diff and my spur gear but they seem to work well after about 10 tanks of fuel.

For the hop-up I think about putting some color parts from the ST Pro and some alu parts to protect the front of my car from me (I crash it often cause it's my first experience with RC driving)

The engine do start with ease when my glow plug is hot enough. Still I already got a spare glow plug cause I know the break in period often kill the glow plug by running too rich.

I hope everybody have fun with his evader!

[supernitro_guy1]

thanks mods.

[alto_sir]

Great clean-up!

[JATO JOCKIE247]

T-maxx 4eva can just get a new name...so why ban him?

[michel-2000]

I got myself a used one on Ebay...actually, the fun thing is that this RC is all in parts.....it should be here in a couple of days...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/michel-2000/17_2.jpg

This will be a very good 'First Time' Nitro project.

I've been with an Electric Evader for more than 3 years now.....

I was wondering where is the cheapest and best place to get replacment parts for it ? Should I stick with Tower Hobbies ?

I'll keep you update on my project !!!!!

Michel

[RCfrodoRC]

hey, i was just wondering how good of a basher this truck is. I wanna get a nitro that i can bash hard and not break often.

[triumph2010]

hey, guys have a question. found to deals i just couldn't pass up. First is a Nitro Evader BX for 102.00. Also, bought a EP Evader St. rolling for 45.00. My question is what parts would I need to convert the Nitro BX to a ST. will the ep st cover all parts to make the Nitro BX a ST & EP St a BX. Thanks

[michel-2000]

I'm now rebuilding my new purchase !!!!

Spent about 100$us at Tower Hobbies for some missing/broken parts....

I'm very excited about it....

It's very cool to build a truck from scratch....I love it !

I will post some pics when it's done and working !

So far, the cheapest place to get parts is at T.H. and on Ebay, but you got to be patient on Ebay.....

Michel

[dom223]

Im thinking of getting a nitro evader st prebuilt, and i wanted to ask a few questions. Is the dtx .18 the same as the o.s cvr-18 because they look the same except for the head. And how many years has this truck been around, just wondering if it will be worth getting if it might be discountinued any time soon?

[azizhousecallz]

This truck rocks! i had a HPI Rush and it was crude compared to this truck.
The power, the set up, it really is a much better truck. :D I never took my rush to the track because i never saw anyone out there with one. But im going to the track tomorrow with this dirt slinging plow! GreaT TRUCK HELL YES!!!! :D

[evaderstman]

The evader is a great truck. Also if anyone is interested i realy need to get rid of a bunch of aluminum stuff i have. I have a complete set of a-arms, a chassis ready to accept a gt fuel tank, and a homemade front bumper and shock tower. I will sell it all for 50 shipped if any one is interested pm, and i can get you some pics. It is all in good condition, but i just don't need it.

[michel-2000]

The evader is a great truck. Also if anyone is interested i realy need to get rid of a bunch of aluminum stuff i have. I have a complete set of a-arms, a chassis ready to accept a gt fuel tank, and a homemade front bumper and shock tower. I will sell it all for 50 shipped if any one is interested pm, and i can get you some pics. It is all in good condition, but i just don't need it.

Can you send me some pics of your aluminum stuff please ?
my email is michel-2000(@)myway.com
(take out the () from the address)

Thanks

Michel

[evaderstman]

I sent you an email just let me know i just need to get rid of it.

[michel-2000]

I sent you an email just let me know i just need to get rid of it.

Thanks, but I did not get it !

Here's what I'm interested in:
complete set of a-arms
shock tower

Email me..again....LOL

Thanks

Oh, fyi I'm located in Canada, near Montreal, Quebec

Michel

[evaderstman]

Here you go my email is currently down, but there is pics of all the stuff there. Also i can ship to canada just fine, but if it is too expensive i might have to charge a little bit more. Anyway if you pm me here i can get back to you faster. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3396121

[RCfrodoRC]

hey would this be a good first nitro. i only wanna bash for now so would this be good a good truck for me.

[evaderstman]

Ya it is a great first truck the other choice to look at would be the rc10gt. Both are great trucks, and have good parts avalibility.

[chevyguy]

anyone know if this body (http://prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/3204/3204.jpg) will work on the nitro evader ST? I realise it is for the Jato, but do you think i could make it work?

[evaderstman]

Sure if you take the time and work on it you can make it fit.

[dtxracer1_0_1]

do you think that monster trucks are alot better than dtx nitro evader because my friend has a t-maxx and we raced and i wasted him so what is the diffrance

[dtxracer1_0_1]

what is the best pipe to put on a st or is it all ready good and do boost bottles do anything

[evaderstman]

The tmaxx is underpowered, and has a smaller engine than the evader. The stock pipe is good, and boost bottles don't do crap really.

[andrew1617]

hey anyone know which wheel adapters work with the N.E.S.T? . I want to put some new rims on but dont know if they will work

[wvrednek]

i'd like 2 know that 2

[wvrednek]

also i totaled my diff gear and i need 2 know what kind of grease 2 use in my ball diff rebuild? (lubriplate/white grease, or regular gear grease, or should i go 2 the hobby shop and buy that expensive stuff?)

[scottywilkes]

gday guys new to these forums and have had a nitro evader for bout 6 months and i love it. The engine is starting to go out on me now and i have a OS 18 cvrx coming from tower with other various goodies to like the Aluminium diff and proline velocity rims and dirt hawgs. Andrew1617 some wheels i found that fit really well are the proline velocity rims http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW24&P=7 they fit very well and are very strong and rigid ( the DTX rims are not worth it and are very brittle) any wheels made for the xxxnt will fit to.

BTW here is a pic of my Evader with the sanded and polished header and pipe. Many blisters were involved with sanding it by hand. That black paint is very tuff. Any ways just saying hi. CHEERS

[wvrednek]

i like the polished muffler/headder, it really makes the truk stand out moore.
what happened to the engine and why?

[wvrednek]

hey anyone know which wheel adapters work with the N.E.S.T? . I want to put some new rims on but dont know if they will work

team losi 2.2" sport rims are stronger and fit perfectly to the stock hubs

[scottywilkes]

waht happened to my engine mmmmmmmmm. Well the air filter got a tear in it and some fine gritty dirt got in there and scratched her up a bit which really annoyed me cause i think the air filter was torn from the store. But it is still goin with most off the nickel plating scratched of the sleeve but it is really hard to start and it will not idle for the life of it. BTW it still pulls wheelies with the glads which is cool. Cant wait for the OS 18cvrx get here with my other good ies then it will be a massive wheelie machine :) :D . BTW any wheel that is said to fit the xxxnt will fit the evader. My favourite wheels that fit are the proline velocity rims they are really strong and very light and they fit very slugly on the hub pin. Thanks wvrednek for the compliment on the pipe it took ages to sand it right down now i want to find some one that can annodize things and get it annodized the same colour as the OS 18cvrx cooling head so it matches lol.

[wvrednek]

wht kind ov fuel r u runnin cuz in mine 10% wasnt enuff so i run 15% mabe thatl get it t idle mine will idle forever also wht did u do to it to make it do wheelies i cant seem to get the front to do better than barely steer

[scottywilkes]

well the fuel i use is homebrew that i make my self and it is 25%. I only use the nest ingredients and have some castor and synthetic to keep away the seizing bug lol. It is sweet stuff and it only costs $8.00 AUS to make a litre :eek: . mine just started wheelieing maybe because i use 25% cause it made a huge huge difference when i started using 25% from the 10% hobby shop cr#p.

[wvrednek]

lol :D thts pretty hot fuel

[wvrednek]

i dont know if u guys have ever heard of this problem but ill shoot:
im just learning bout the slipper and i set it so it slips to keep from spinning the wheels but the lock nut keeps tightening it self up wierd :confused:
i mean that no matter how loose i set it i goes against physics and actually tightens up the spring :confused: :confused:

[wvrednek]

also has any1 had any problems with the pins holding the a-arms in place u no the ones that the arms pivot on?
the e-clips fell out then i had snap rings on the darn thing and i lost the pin and the race and caused a big pile up in the back st
i need some advice so that doesnt happen again

[scottywilkes]

yep that happened to me to cause of to many nose down landings what i did was get some good quality losi clips and they are 10 times stronger havnt had one brake yet. Not suer about the slipper nut that one is a weird one

[wvrednek]

thanx ill try that :)

[led1977]

hi guys new to this forum i have a quick question has anyone switched to a steel spur gear and if yes which one?

[evaderstman]

Its nopt really worth it, but the robinson racing spur gear for the rc10gt will work on the evader, as will any rc10gt spur.

[scottywilkes]

yep the GT spurs will fit. Any ways does any one here have the OS18cvrx installed or are gonna get it? Does it make the evader wheelie like a mad man? i am about to buy one with the alloy diff and want to know what im getting myself into lol. i am gettin the dirt hawgs for street tyres and i have Glads for dirt tyres.

[wvrednek]

hey will the clutch bell off the rc10gt work on my n.e.v.s.t. ? i was wondering because i havnt found any other gear ratios made directly for the e.v. i saw u guys talking about the spur gears and there are two sizes in metal and has any1 found a plannetary diff (all gears) that fits im tired of messing around with diff slipping

[evader7414]

Body off shot...
you should see mine i'll put up some pics mine toped out at 58 mhp powered by a os 18. max cvr.big bloc beat that j/k.

[scottywilkes]

nope u are stuck with the ball diff they do not make a planatery diff for STs unless they are 4 wheel drive like the MT2

[wvrednek]

i thot so what about the clutch bell

[evaderstman]

The ball diff will not slip if it is adjusted right. You need to readjust it. Also rc10gt clutch bells are way to small. You don't really need more than the 2 gears there since there is a large spur gear selection.

[wvrednek]

thanx:)

[wvrednek]

do i have to re-align the engine to use a different spur gear?

[wvrednek]

also is there a bigger battery box that i can use to get a rechargeable 5-cell hump pack in? i want to go rechargeable and was thinking about a 5-cell hump pack to have the same voltage

[scottywilkes]

a hump pack should fit in the stock B box. I am about to get one from a mate and he is using one in his B box and it fits fine

[wvrednek]

10-4

[wvrednek]

does anyone know what weight shock oil came in the truck stock i was just wondering...

[wvrednek]

and has anyone had trouble wth the brake disc wearing out the stock plastic nut wore out a while ago and tonight the alumnum nut dug through the new nut that fiberglass garbage dont work :mad: and thats putting it lightly...

[scottywilkes]

the break isnt the best but it works. What u need to get is the aluminium brake nut for it. It enhances the braking a little bit and is alot more reliable. And it adds a little bling to the truck lol.

[wvrednek]

i got that nut but the fiberglass strips
it does look pretty sweet :cool:

[wvrednek]

is there a better servo the gears stripped in mine the other day i have two gear sets on order but its still not enough to steer wheels
i dont want a $150 servo but one that has the endurance to steer and be reliable and fit in the box

[vaderbxman]

try the futaba s3003. I have that in my evader st pro, but it has more torque than need be. It'll probably be enough though because the nitro is a pound heavier.

[led1977]

alot of people choose the hitec 645 mg servo it has metal gears and hasnt failed me yet and ive raced and bashed it

[vaderbxman]

but those things cost a fortune. I know that they're near indestructable, but he said that he doesn't want to spend a lot of money.

[wvrednek]

reaction time, speed, torque, doesnt really mean a whole lot to me all i need is a servo that will last a long time with no maintance
and fit right into the car without modifs

[led1977]

it cost me forty bucks its really not a bad investment

[wvrednek]

i saw the 645 mg i might be interested in it is it any good led1977?

[vaderbxman]

It's the best servo you can buy. Metal gears, and it'll last you a lifetime. If your willing to shell out the cash, by all means go for it.

[scottywilkes]

Ok guys im getting a MGT yay. I was gonna do the evader up with OS18cvrx and about 200 US worth of stuff but i thought i always wanted a MGT so im getting one. I will still keep the Evader and get the engine repaired or a new one with the warranty. It will be like a street truck mostly. :D

[wvrednek]

good luck:)

[wvrednek]

just wondering... how long is the warranty on the engine

[scottywilkes]

2 years and 1 year on the specified plastic parts

[wvrednek]

sweet :) let the bashing begin :D :driving: :flame: :bang:

[wvrednek]

ok this is a stupid question to ask in an off road thread but has anyone ever clocked a stock n.e.s.t. a bunch of people have askd me how fast it will go and i have to give em a guess cz i dont know...
btw i know its fast cz i cant get it wide open in 3 acres of pkng lot

shows how good i can drive...

[scottywilkes]

top speed stock is proly about 38 MPH but with the Evader BX gearing it is about 45 or a little more. If u cant get it up to speed u must be a really bad driver lol. I can get the vader with the BX gearing up to top speed on loose dirt in about 20 metres lol. Its all about using the slipper and throttle control. If u learn the basics of them u will be able to control it no worries. It is a very fun truck and after alot of hard bashing i have only broken 2 parts and that was cause i didnt have the body on and a heads down landing hehe. I will be ordering the MGT very soon cause it is my Bday next week and i will be getting MGT money. So it is of to the online shops i go ;)

[wvrednek]

wow... what parts from the bx r u using? im a better mech. than driver though

[michel-2000]

Hi.
After almost one year, I have finished building from scratch my Nitro Evader ST. I had to do A LOT of adjustments on the carb. I had the chance to run 4 full tanks before the stupid accident... I ran into my real car wheel.....darn..... I broke right front suspension arm.

Got to get another one now....LOL...but it's soooooo fast.... I'm surprised!

I had before an Electric BX....so the jump to nitro was long but good.

Here are the small problems I ran into:

1. the servos included in the 'box' I bought were some cheap OFNA ones, so I bought 2 Hi Torques Ball Bearings one (some Cirrus one from a Hobby Shop in Canada). 1st problem solved.

2. The turnbuckles included were not right, so, until I get some good one, I need to adjust a lot the lenght of these one, which change a lot the direction of the truck.

3. I bought some cheap Tower Hobbies regular glow plugs, so the engine is a bit hard to start. I will get some good ones with my next purchase.

4. The tires included are used. Ok to bash around, but, as lucky as I am, I lost one on my 3rd tank (it was not glued properlly on the rim)... Funny situation...

5. Since I'm a real nooby in nitro, I'm not pretty sure if the carb adjustment is good. The engine temp stays between 165 and 210. I really need to read more on that matter

So, now, the truck is damaged. In about 2 weeks I should have some replacement parts, and be back 'on track' bashing around. Unless the weather is ******....

If you have any comments or tricks to give me, please do so.... I need and want to learn......

...this is the beginning of my Nitro experience....I should be posting some pics later this week...

Oh, last thing, is there a way to take out the recoil starter and replace it with something else ? I HAAAATTTTTEEEEE this system........

Michel

[michel-2000]

I went from this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/michel-2000/Evader01.jpg


to this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/michel-2000/Evader05.jpg


:D

Michel

[wvrednek]

well it wolnt be cheap but a bump box works and tower hobbies has a super starter,
type "DTXP6022" into the "search" box on www.towerhobbies.com and you will find this system but you will need to buy a side plate, a one way bearing, and batteries separate and maybe something else that im not thinking of

the recoil system isnt all that bad sometimes you have to give it a little extra throttle or prime it until you hear a girgling sound that is the carb being flooded to the point that the fuel is literally comming out of the air intake

nitros run on the edge of getting fuel thats why the carb settings are so important cz with a real car you have a fuel pump and a constant amount of fuel while on a nitro youre using pressure from exhaust to make fuel pressure its not the best idea so it takes a little of messin around until you find a happy medium

[vaderbxman]

try the Duratrax starter box. My dad has one for his nitro vader, and he no longer tears the skin off his knuckles when he tries to start it!!

[wvrednek]

yea thatd b better u dont have to mod anythin

[wvrednek]

ok... strange occourance, monday it was warm and i decided to get another run in before winter. when i started it up and was tuning it i couldnt get the wheels to stop and when i put the brakes on it just stalled. so i tore the clutch apart and the spring had flown apart and was in pieces, yes pieces. well i ordered a new clutch assembly and it is installed but i havnt tested it yet. man its been cold...
the shoes were hardly worn at all so the spring wasnt touching the bell the spring just came apart from the rpms, and no i dont hardly ever run my engine much past 2/3. o well its fine now. and i cant wait to try out my new bump box... :)

[vaderbxman]

My dad tore the reveiver battery wires off the battery pack, so his car coasted at idle speed, slowly eased over the black tubing (the car is going like 4 MPh) and my dad was running over there to stop it. Freak accident, and nothing was broken or harmed. We later bought a receeiver Ni-Cd battery pack from the LHS.

[wvrednek]

that happened 2 me too several times mainly when i land on the rear hard
heres what i did to fix it. after repairing the wire i cut a bigger hole for the wire in the b-box so that unless it catches fire it wolnt happen again. and if u want to keep dirt out cover it with a piece of tape :)

[vaderbxman]

Cool! We put some shrink tubing over the wires in the hole to protect them a little better too. Worked like a charm!

[wvrednek]

well i managed to catch it on fire...
the batt shorted out and the insulation burned up and melted a plug
o whell it wz my fault not much damage done...

[vaderbxman]

0.0

well, I hope you're ok. Nothing spectacular has happened to his, but that sounds pretty twisted!

[wvrednek]

nothing important burned up/melted...
there was a little bit of fuel residue on a wire that shorted out and a little flame melted a plug thanx to my LHS i am still bashing in my driveway
therefore you should always keep ur cars clean. i mean it...
o and dont try to do donuts on leftover asphalt :o it may be ground up like gravel but if you get too fast youll get it on 2 wheels like the Dukes of Hazard :D

[wvrednek]

youll get it on 2 wheels like the Dukes of Hazard :D

in the middle of the road...
man crazy winter weve had no snow but just a little to cold to tune properly
im going to b tearin into my truck soon when the snow does hit :rolleyes:
i may need some advice on getting it back together thnx

[Intermision]

I just got my Evader and have a problem. I finished breaking it and now I can't get it to start It will burp, but not start, and when it does start it dies when I give it gas.

[vaderbxman]

Wayyyyyyyyyyyy too rich by the sounds of things. Did you tune it for performance after you broke it in?

[Intermision]

Wayyyyyyyyyyyy too rich by the sounds of things. Did you tune it for performance after you broke it in?
yes I did

[wvrednek]

yea try n lean out the low speed some
temperature and humidity really affect ur carb settings

speaking of which, i find it hard to tune my evad below 60 deg. F it runs about a half tank (just enough to get warm) and slowly dies ive tried everything im thinkin bout a hotter glow plug any suggestions?

[Intermision]

I got it running good, and I feel like an idiot. I just needed a new battery in the glow starter it runs great now. This little car is so fun. Also is it common to strip out the inside of the ball diff? I just did and was wondering Ig I should stock up on diff gears?

[wvrednek]

well i have gone through some diffs but for the longest life keep ur diff adjusted properly like on loose dirt it could be ever-so-slightly looser than on pavement, if it squeels tighten it up very slightly but if u overtighten it then it probably will strip again, they do make an aluminum diff, never tried it, grass is wery hard on diff gears also but u can still have fun if it is adjusted right...
and if something doesnt work, check batteries first...:)

[Intermision]

Here are some pics of my evader

My mods so far are
-MX-3 radio
-Full metal tranny

[wvrednek]

is that a silver frame?

[Intermision]

is that a silver frame?
Yeah, I stripped the stock frame and polished it.

[wvrednek]

looks nice :)

[Intermision]

Here is a more recent pic
http://www.intermis.rchomepage.com/deskevader2.jpg

[wvrednek]

u think snow would hurt an engine?
i mean like driving thru it


yo does the alum diff last? i see u have it is it better?

[vaderbxman]

Driving through snow would be bad if you mannage to get water into the engine itself, but it would be OK. If you are going to run in the snow, make sure to read-up on nitro tuning ang whatnot because it differentiates alot from warm weather racing.

If you drive with a fairly mild motor in terms of power, the aluminum diff really doessn't do much. Get it if you don't want to worry about it again, but it is kind-of pricey. :D

[wvrednek]

well i have 1 more nylon diff left, thatl get me thru the summer, but alumnum is a soft metal, does it ever wear out? should i get the carbide diff balls when i get a alum diff? o n i have the stock O.S. .18 engine in mine...

[vaderbxman]

My dad has driven his stock diff with no problems with it stripping since september 13, and has only had to rebuild the differential once. He's also running a more powerful engine in his, so I'm surprized you have problems with it.

The aluminum is alot sturdier than the plastic one, and when you do replace it, go with the carbide balls to extend rebuild times.

[wvrednek]

well i cant get my slipper to work right so im putting a lot of strain on the tranny and i do run in many different conditions so i might go metal tranny...

[wvrednek]

hey does this work like its supposed to?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNSD5&P=7

[vaderbxman]

Don't get it. Those things are complex, prone to breaking easially, and it really doesn't boost horsepower. If your despirate for more horsepower, your better off with a different engine, like an O.S. or something.

[wvrednek]

o no i dont want it i was just wondering cz id never seen it before


but i was in the process of rebuilding my car for next summer and i found 2 of my shocks empty and 1 about half full. this is the first time ive opened the shocks and the truck is about 7-8 months old is this normal or are the seals going bad

and i have only been running in my backyard and driveway, no real big or hard jumps, but several little ones...

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, the shock seals are bound to wear out, even if you run small jumps.

I once blew out one of mine landing a jump. It was hilarious to see the spray of oil shoot down into the ground when ht hit, but not fun to clean it up.

Just make sure to pick-up a set of shock seals off of tower (not very expencive: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK5&P=7 )

Just remember to use 2 seals for one shock. I made the mistake of doing only one seal the first time I rebuilt mine.

[wvrednek]

yea ill get a couple sets of those...

im in the process of buying some new front wheel/tire combos, what should i do about the wheel bearings? there are 3 per wheeel in mine but the bearings are sold in sets of 2? buy 3 sets? i know this is a dumb quesiton but it has me stumped.

also i will buy team losi 2.2 truck wheels from my LHS and maybe the tires there too. do they use the same size bearing?

[vaderbxman]

there are supposed to be 2 bearings in each wheel and one metal ring that goes between the bearings.

[wvrednek]

do they come out? they seem like theyre glued in there

[vaderbxman]

It does take alot of convincing to get them out, but they do come out because they aren't glued in. I use something straight and rigid to get behind the bearing and "wedge" it out. If you can get one out, the other just pushes out. You might want to use the butt of a screwdriver to press the bearings back into the new wheel, because it's difficult to get it ligned up perfectly.

[wvrednek]

well thats a lot of work considering i might still use the old wheels/tires for pavement and the new ones for off road

what about buying the spacer or could it be possible to just put 3 bearings in?

as soon as i get to my LHS i will stop bugging you guys with these newbie questions :)

[wvrednek]

just playin around i found its not that hard to change bearings so i guess im fine on that matter:)

but i need to get some shock oil, any recomendations?

[vaderbxman]

My dad used 20 weight in the rear of his and it's soft, allowing for the rear to get a little more traction over the stock amount of traction.

[wvrednek]

yea sounds good how about like 40 wt in the front im always bottoming out when i nose dive in the driveway...

[vaderbxman]

Yeah I used 30 weight in my front shocks and it's kind-of soft. 40 sounds good! :D

[wvrednek]

well i kinda got a run in today, the carb was a little lean and it spiked to 300+ F in under a minute so i pinched the fuel line and it quit faster than you could blink. then the batts died in my starter box n i didnt really feel like pull starting it. ill try again tom...

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, that's the way it is with running nitro. I've had that problem with my electrics where I get to the track and something breaks in a couple minutes.


Keep chugging! :D

[wvrednek]

kept chuggin straight to a block wall ripped an a-arm off n bent the shaft...

o well ha ha ha

[vaderbxman]

Which shaft, a front axle, rear axle, shock shaft, motor?

Either which way, sounds knarley! :o

[wvrednek]

it wz a home machined front a-arm hinge pin thing...
i had bad luck with the stocks so i made my own

ill mak another as soon as i learn to drive :) :)

[vaderbxman]

I kind-of wanted to make my own arms out of lexan, but I haven't broken a set at all!!

[wvrednek]

ur a damn good driver then LOL...

[vaderbxman]

Heh, I get along just fine.......

Speaking of which, today I broke 2 parts in one corner of the car (one sterring knuckle arm and a C-hub) and melted the connectors, all at once. I cahe spares of everything, but that was just jinxing myself! :D

but I've got it buttoned-up and ready to go tomorrow!!! :)

[wvrednek]

i hate that only the small crashes do destructive damage, the big ones that should destroy everything you will drive away from, but the smallest taps break all the good stuff...:)

[vaderbxman]

I haven't broken anything since then, but I've got my eye on a T4 for myself. I saw one of those turn a lap about 2-3 seconds quicker than I could!!!! Crap.

[wvrednek]

oooooooooooooooo...

i think that ill just keep my nevst running just for fun :)

[vaderbxman]

If I had the funds, I'd use the nitro evader too. But since I'm a budget racer...:o

[wvrednek]

i understand.

[wvrednek]

ugh. a late snow has kept me from doing much and looks like rain for a while...

but i fixed the switch on my starter box that burned up so i all but got it runnin

[vaderbxman]

Heh, I'm glad I live in the south. All we get is rain!! :D

[wvrednek]

rain all week 4 us...

[Black9label13]

i dont race but i did have trouble with plastic parts for my nitro evader st. so i just started replacing them with the golden horizons aluminum counterparts. theyre great parts, look cool, and are well priced. also when i first bought it i was having trouble with the .18 engine, so i bought a direct bolt in also by o.s
weathers also a problem here, in mass. i also have a problem with the snap rings on the pins falling out, any little tricks to stop that?

[vaderbxman]

Snap rings on the pins......

Do you mean the pins that go into the wheel? Or something else....

[wvrednek]

the ones on the front a-arms are a pain, i made my own hinge pins and drilled a 1/16" hole through the ends to put mini codder pins in. never will have another problem unless i wreck (which has happened...) :D


_!__________________!__
..!.....#########.....!
........#########

the exclamation marks are the 1/16" holes, the line is the hinge pin, and the number symbols are the a-arms (please ignore the periods in there i couldnt get the pic to look right without them)

i used mini codder pins but you can use wire or something else...

[Black9label13]

alright i see what your getting at. i work in a machine shop so that should be easy. thanks a bunch for the tip

[plymouth71]

I think my servos toast. I was bashing having a great time, everything was great, then all of a sudden I couldn't steer, and it slammed into my Father Inlaw's Machine Shed. I broke the right front control arm. I replaced and took it out for a run. when testing the steering I found it would only turn right if i moved the wheels to the right manually. It would stop steering right if I tried steering left. The servo motor runs, I can hear it, but the wheels don't move..

1. Can someone please recommend some replacement servos? I've heard the Evaders stock ones are not that great.
2. I am looking to install an electrc starter as I'm sick of the pull start, Can anyone vouch for a model they've installed?
3. I'm looking to purchase HPI's 07 Chevy Silverado Body, anyone know of some mounting hardware tat is easily modified.

I love my evader, I just wanted to get into Nitro, and this has been great even thou
I've broken my rf control arm, left rear control arm, the servo saver and servo, front bilkhead, front shock tower, battery box and rear bulkhead? Thankyou Warranty

[wvrednek]

well many times the servo saver adjustement nut works itself loose and can confuse you very much. i know it sounds dumb but it happends and is just another thing that should be checked often

ya that warranty is very helpful for newbies like us!!!

[Black9label13]

the evader st is my first nitro truck as well but i dnt use the warranty. i dnt have the patience. i lost my steering servo too. i found that the gears inside the servo was mashed. so then i went out to buy another. that oned didnt work so i just ended up putting the gears fromt he new one back int he original.

[wvrednek]

yea u just have to stock up on those gears, i do.

i cant get my nevst to run or tune worth crap, could fuel from last summer be really that bad? it does a combo of getting HOT and bogging down like its rich on the low end. when i get mad and run it harn in my yard as soon as i let it idle it dies pretty painfully but when i change the needles (either way) it gets worse. the exhst man gskt is nowhere to be found n i didnt lose it so it prbbly burned away???

[vaderbxman]

1. Can someone please recommend some replacement servos? I've heard the Evaders stock ones are not that great.
2. I am looking to install an electrc starter as I'm sick of the pull start, Can anyone vouch for a model they've installed?
3. I'm looking to purchase HPI's 07 Chevy Silverado Body, anyone know of some mounting hardware tat is easily modified.



Sorry for the long reply, and this might still come too late, but I'll still share:

1. I didn't like the stock servo much, so I went for a Futaba S3305. It's got about 100 Oz. of torque with a 4.8 battery (4 double A's)

2. You don't want a on-board electric starter because they don't have the torque to start it. What you want is this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMPP5&P=7

My dad had the same complaint as you did, and just decided to go with the starter box. All you have to do is move the position of the starter wheel, and reverse the motor leads. It's a great investment, and only takes 2 stick packs to run (they can be crappy ones too, because my dad used to go 4 weekends on one charge)

[wvrednek]

i have that starter box and i must have got a crappy motor cuz it only run half the time.

ill find out soon as the new motors are on order

some timing it quit perminately the same time my yank start gave up. LOL...

i use a car batt to run my box cuz the stick packs didnt last long enough

[Black9label13]

yea u just have to stock up on those gears, i do.

i cant get my nevst to run or tune worth crap, could fuel from last summer be really that bad? it does a combo of getting HOT and bogging down like its rich on the low end. when i get mad and run it harn in my yard as soon as i let it idle it dies pretty painfully but when i change the needles (either way) it gets worse. the exhst man gskt is nowhere to be found n i didnt lose it so it prbbly burned away???


Yeah i had the exact same problem it wouldnt hold a tune and i could never get it started. iw ould have to pull non stop for legit like five minutes. it got so bad i had blisters inside my fingers from pulling. but soon me and my dad decided to bench start it. this was before i read do not rev under no load we got it up to top rpm and eeeeeek. it just stopped. the connecting rod was literally shattered. it came out in dust. insteaqd of replacing the shaft so i could continue having problems i just bout the O.S .18 cv-r. its a direct bolt in and it cost me about 130$. 40$ more than a replacement dtx .18. it holds a tune perfect and is way more durable. id reccomend buying one of these. sorry bout the long reply

[wvrednek]

yea im just an economy basher, ill make due with wht i got but ill keep that in mind...

p.s. what do u mean by "bench start"

[Black9label13]

we put the car on the vise on my workbench and started it without any load ont he wheels and revved it. and then my dad opened the thing up.

[vaderbxman]

That'll kill it quick.

If you hate replacing those friggin gaskets, go to advanced auto parts or some other auto parts store and buy some paper gasket material. By the time my dad bought it, he had his turmoil in the mail.

[Black9label13]

i just dont run a gasket and my car runs fine. im going to buy some gasket material though. should cut down on vibrations of metal on metal. u guys should post some pics of your evaders. i would of mine but its in the middle of a rebuild. i will post some as soon as i get the new parts.

[wvrednek]

well ill try a new gal of fuel from my LHS and the new motors from tower for my starter box and maybe ill be good to start racing at a local track that ive been dyin' to try...

[wvrednek]

dont wanna make u mad but tower has an o.s. .18 cv-r for $99, and an .18 cv-rx for $110.

i cant get mine 2 run longer than about a minute, just long enough to get to 400+ degs F ouch!!! , and if i richen it up, it wolnt run...

im gonna look into some parts to rebuild my carb and some advice from my LHS's

[evst 360]

wv - it sounds like you might have an air leak. I would seal the engine as per the link in the nitro guide at the top of the nitro forum.

[wvrednek]

no, the LSN was waay too lean and the HSN was way too rich.

i figured it out on my own and got it to run just fine, actually too good and i lost the brakes about 3 feet from a concrete rock wall at WOT headded straight for it. still cant drive...:driving:

it was a pretty neat crash though...popcorn

[wvrednek]

any suggestions on how to keep the brake rotor (fiberglass disc) from stripping out so fast. about 7 tanks n its round on the inside.

[wvrednek]

does anyone know if these will fit my stock evader?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUF8&P=SM

im actually looking for bead locks but all i find are hex drive bead locks...

[vaderbxman]

That hex adapter isn't gonna work, but these do:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUF9&P=7

It says its for Losi trucks, but the Losi xxx-t truck has the same axle size as the evader.

[wvrednek]

ok thanks man.

[vaderbxman]

RCCA did a bit about the Evader electric in the october issue, and they said that those adapters work.

You could also try the new 30-series tires that are comming out from proline. They are real low profile and give a bling look about your truck.

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html

If you go to products, 1/10th scale tires, it shows the 3 kinds they are ready to sell. I hope they sell Hole-shots too.......

[smurfcivic]

Is it better to run both fuel lines straight or loop one of them? Iv seen in a few pics that some have the 1 coming from the exhaust looped and was just curious why and if it helps.

[evst 360]

looping the fuel lines is just to keep them under control. Its only the length that matters.