DuraTrax Nitro Evader ST forum

[StevePond]

The latest vehicle to come down the pike from DuraTrax is this hot looking nitro-powered Evader ST. The truck has an all-new pull-start DTX .18 engine made by O.S., a channeled, blue anodized, aluminum chassis and here are just a few of the truck’s impressive standard features:
Duratrax/Futaba radio system
Aluminum header and tuned pipe
Long-travel aluminum shocks w/ threaded pre-load adj.
Enclosed radio and battery compartments
Single pad slipper clutch
Composite disc brake
Steel turnbuckles
White dish wheels
Twin-needle carburetor
Full bearings
CV-type axles
Mounted and glued pin/blade tires
The Nitro Evader ST is available ready-to-run or as a prebuilt if you prefer. The prebuilt version comes without the radio, batteries or support equipment.
RTR Part no. DTXD62** price TBA
Prebuilt DTXD0062; price TBA

[StevePond]

Body off shot...

[Poolboy51]

that better not be the same plastic as the original evader or its gonna fall apart faster than a cardboard house.

[evaderstrules]

it looks as if it is

[TRX250]

Looks alot like a XXX-NT Sport !

[DaMaXXer]

I doesnt look anything like a xxx-nt sport

[teamlosi 4 life]

i beg to differ

[trxstr1961]

I know what SOMEONE is getting for xmas this yr :D

[synapse75]

why the hell did they put a .18 in it??
the local track is already forced to run the .12s with the 15 motors, because every other person has an RTR.. now if somebody shows up with one of these then what, and if they do well thats going to cause controversy.. and it doesnt look like that bad of a setup..

did they really have to put a .18 in a 2.5lbs stadium truck??

[k_sw31]

the chassis looks very similar to the team gt chassis, no problem with that. :D i agree though, the plastic is way too weak.

[poopie]

Looks like a GT ran into a Losi.

[k_sw31]

look

[evaderstrules]

ur right it does

[bullett1818]

Were they goin for the best of both worlds maybe? lol -BULLETT-

[kickazzdan]

i dont care if it looks like a gt that is going to be the next truck i get hopefully though it will be a little more durable then my maxium st w/.16 dan

[pudder]

It looks like a much better truck than the max st that is forsure! The max st was a good basher, but this evader here looks like a sport racer. :) I think duratrax is getting their stuff together!

[losifreak2004]

teamlosi 4 life - Differ all you want...that truck looks nothing the the XXX-NT

Nor does it look like a GT, aside from the blue chassis. Look at the shock towers...

If if looks like anything, it's based off the electric Evader, which was essentially a XXT.

Aaron Waldron

[jives]

The plastic in the Evader ST isn't that weak. I've only managed to break pieces by clipping a mail box post and a really bad landing from a jump off maybe 6ft or 7ft drop off on to concrete. There were people who had problems with the front bulk head. I must have a later revison of just lucky casue I' haven't had any trouble.

Making it Nitro is going to put more strain that's for sure and it will break more parts but show me a nitro that doesn't break more parts than it's Electric counter part.

In any case it has to be a improvment over the Max ST

[-=ADA$=-]

i think that truck hasnt been redesigned, but drivetrain had to be, cause your righ nitro puts more stress on drive parts, and putting nitro engine into car made for electric isnt very good idea

[banditwing]

I don't think that this will go any faster than your .15 in your sport truck. I mean c'mon, dtrx put a .17 into thier overdrive which has a 2spd and it only went 34mph. My truck will beat that and it's got a .15.

[rc10gtisthebest]

One Word....





Wait it's not even a word!

[pudder]

Originally posted by banditwing
I don't think that this will go any faster than your .15 in your sport truck. I mean c'mon, dtrx put a .17 into thier overdrive which has a 2spd and it only went 34mph. My truck will beat that and it's got a .15.

It is not always about the size, the materials, craftmanship, ect make the real difference.

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by pudder
It looks like a much better truck than the max st that is forsure! The max st was a good basher, but this evader here looks like a sport racer. :) I think duratrax is getting their stuff together!

do you think they will use the same plastic, if they do it will be really dumb i can break that stuff with the original motor

[enemy_spike]

i think ill get that chassis and install the st's plastic on it and make it electric

[pudder]

There would be like no point to doing that...

[brianracer]

xxgt :p i guess thats :cool: wait no its not duratrax makes it

[rc10gtisthebest]

Not


XXX-GT DTX (DuraTrax) Edition


LOL:p

Or if they sell a racing one it will be called

Factory Team XXX-GT Adam Drake edt.

[brianracer]

after one day of racing

[pudder]

That's not very nice.

[brianracer]

that pic im just kidden duratrax is kool kinda anyway i was messin around cause i was bored

[jives]

There was a blurb about this in the Dec RCCA, has a date or even price ever been set?

[grewst]

If it is anything like the electric version I don't want it. I will never buy it, and I will skip right over that page in my next RCCA

That new Mugen ST looks sharp....

[pudder]

grewst- why exactly would you come on and post something like you just did, sorry to tell you this, but some people really dont want to hear things like that, including me.

[kitty]

I second what pudder said. The Mugen is in a totally different class altogether, both in design and in price. Not all of us can afford a Mugen, especially for backyard bashing, which is something the Evader is very good for.

I for one will be watching closely as things develop on the Nitro Evader. To me, the front end parts look the same as the electric. Naturally they'd have to beef up the parts considerably for a nitro, so I'm keeping an eye out to see if they are stronger and will fit the Evader ST. A few minor additions to mine, including an aluminum front brace set by Jep_RC and I have yet to break another part since. And if the tranny on the nitro version will be compatible with the electric version, but stronger, it'll be a definite on my list. :)

[pudder]

Just to let you know kitty, nitro trannies are totaly different, but you never know, they may have the idler gear fititng the evader too.

[grewst]

Sorry,, But I still believe that I just wasted 170 bucks when I bought that POS,,It's always broken for one thing or another(and it never left stock form),, maybe I just recieved a bad truck,, but for the same amount I bought a Team T3 that hasn't given my one day of trouble.

I won't waste my money on another one,,,, IMO

[synapse75]

i dont think any other truck is going to stand up to much more abuse than the evader cand stand up to...

if you hit something hard, its going to break.. especially when vehicles in that class are more and more designed to be light weight...

[NoPepsiForYou]

I broke an a-arm on my Maximum ST when I drove into a blade of grass...and you call duratrax durable:confused:

[jives]

Ok I have driven and worked on a RC10GT and a Max ST and I own the Evader ST (along with several other R/C from many different manufactures).

#1 they all break when you hit stuff so don’t hit stuff. :)

Hands down the RC10GT is much more durably than the Max ST but blade of grass I doubt that. I bought a Max ST for my cousin I’ve seen him drive into trees and fence post and yeah broke a few things but they were all solid impacts. The weak spots I found with the Max is the chassis bends, again if you hit something hard, the front shock seem to wear out seals pretty quick and the spur gear die pretty quickly. Fixes put the Duratrax Gold shocks on, buy the Steel spur and say away from the 2 speed but other than making you own chassis I haven’t found a good fix for that other then just pound it back flat.

RC10GT, front end collision with a mail box broke just as many part as my Evader did (Stupid mail box is in a really bad spot:)). To date I’ve only broken 4 parts on my evader, (1) front bulkhead, (1)front shock tower and (1) front bumper in the mail box collision and the rear chassis plate really bad landing off a 3ft wall on to concrete. I’ve never broken a part just driving or at the local track. Pretty much no stock vehicle is going to survive clipping a pole, that dumb mail box has been clipped by me with several of my vehicles, Evader, Monster Pirate, HPI Super Nitro all have lost a few parts to it, plus my Cousin’s RC10GT. As to the jump where I broke the rear chassis plate I jumped it lots of times before it broke and it was all in the landing.

Price is going to be the main factor. I think if Duratrax puts it out in the same price range as the Max ST I think it will be a winner, much more and yeah you can probity go with a “better” truck. But without ever seeing it or driving it I have to think if it’s like the ST then if Duratrax simply puts the aluminum front bulk head on that it would greatly increase it’s durability out of the box, other wise just buying it and putting it on should help. If they can keep it sub $250 RTR and Sub $175 prebuilt with engine (like most of the other Duratrax stuff) it will be a good truck for the money, I’ve always found the prebuilt Duratrax kits to be really good value and good starter kits for beginners.

OT- RTR is just too misleading in Nitro, there isn’t a single RTR Nitro out there that is truly read to run. They all need something maybe as little as engine break-in to painting the body and gluing the tires but in any case that’s not RTR.

[NoPepsiForYou]

no thats a true story, I was driving at full speed through a big field of grass (tall uncut stuff) and somewhere in there an A-Arm broke. Don't beilve me try it yourself:D

[kitty]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou
no thats a true story, I was driving at full speed through a big field of grass (tall uncut stuff) and somewhere in there an A-Arm broke.
If it was tall grass, how do you know that you didn't hit something else like a big rock, brick or something like that? Like many others keep saying, it doesn't matter what you have; if you hit stuff, parts will break.

pudder - thanks for that reminder on the tranny. I can't believe I forgot that. Sleepage. That's what I need.

[NoPepsiForYou]

I went around and looked (because I lost some parts) and I didn't find anything really "hard" around there.

[pudder]

But still you don't break parts on grass... When I had my Max ST that thing took a really good beating, it did break but not much.

I think the AE cars Ihave now are the most durable I have had and will ever have!

[jives]

Enough tall grass combined with a few good ruts could do it, or weakening for other driving could to, strap a new arm on and drive it again :) Once is a mystery, twice is an occurrence, three times…you’re doing something wrong :)

Some people have good luck with "Bad" R/Cs, some people have bad luck with "Good" R/Cs I tell ya it's all in the tea leaves :)

[NoPepsiForYou]

yea I got new arms on it and everything was ok.

But my Max ST is now dead. Motor started to suck so I just said what the hell and found a big ass pile of dirt, jumped it and everything broke:D

[jives]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou
found a big ass pile of dirt, jumped it and everything broke:D

What the Rocky Mountains? :) I wish I had shot video of us jumping the ramp out in front of the house or the ditches behind the lake with my cousin's ST At the lake I was suprized to see how well it held up; other than bending the chassis which cause the steel spur to grind up the rear arm a bit it was fine and even then it we only left casue the sun was going down.

Which engine did you get with yours? if it wa the .12 yeah that engine did seem to lack quite a bit IMO the .16 has been a strong runner, very hot engine but still going.

[NoPepsiForYou]

yea man, I got a jump and cleared Pikes Peak...it was so awsome. I recorded it on my digital camera but the lens cap was on:(

[jives]

http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd62.html

On the Duratrax site now.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?&I=LXDJL9**&P=7

On Tower's site as well, Late Jan $279 RTR

Duratrax's Movies
http://www.duratrax.com/gallery/dtxd62-01b.mov
http://www.duratrax.com/gallery/dtxd62-02b.mov

$279?? I hope this is tower just doing it's High price preorder and the real price is lower once it's out. At $279 I'd pay the extra $10 and get the RC10GT RTR or still get he cheaper HPI Rush RTR.

[bradfox2]

i have an evader electric. i drovve it and it sucked. i would have to buy 3 parts spares and have 1 always sent to duratrax. just going off backyard jumps and stuff. then i got a losi mfe adn the only part i ever have broke was the rear pivot block because my friend drove it full speed into a curb with a mod motor. i am also not new at this hobby. i have raced for a while and am doing good with my LOSI. the plastic is going to break like glass with a nitro engine.

[jives]

Electric Evader RTR $169, Losi XXX-T RTR $269

Nitro evader RTR $279 (currently I'm pretty sure it will drop), Losi XXX-NT Sport RTR $339

No one will say Losi not a better truck, so the question is the Evader a good truck for the money and/or compared to the other trucks in the same price class.

My LHS stop selling the parts for the electric Evader, They said they had sold quite a few of the truck just no one was buying parts so either they all are just sitting on a shelf somewhere or like me and just don't break parts all that often. :)

I did break another front bulk head so I have the aluminum one on order along with the aluminum hing pin holder, so not sure it those will just find another weak spot or solve my problems.

[pudder]

I do have to admit I did break a fare share of parts with the Evader in a racing season, of course mine was one of the first ones with the bad plastic. Other than that, I have had no problems really, for the price the Evader is a great truck and handles good on the track, good for stock racing but a bit too flexible for mod.

[jives]

Well I did put the aluminum parts on but after looking at the truck I think just the hinge pin holder would have been enough. I'd expect just putting that on would stop a lot of breakage, figure if it didn't break then all the strain would remain on it and not get transferred to the bulkhead ergo breaking it. The same concept greatly improved the diff support breaking problem on the Monster Pirate in the Dominator.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

UMMMMM... guys an girls, The NEvader comes with a ". Anodized Aluminum Chassis,7075 T6 aluminum chassis with centerline-mounted components for superior weight distribution and handling."(right off the site). so that should hold up a lot better than the plastic one. I do agree thouht that the remaining plastic will brake pretty easily at a higher speed.

Matt

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Originally posted by banditwing
I don't think that this will go any faster than your .15 in your sport truck. I mean c'mon, dtrx put a .17 into thier overdrive which has a 2spd and it only went 34mph. My truck will beat that and it's got a .15.

yo bwoy, i got the overdrive, trust it goes faster than ur .15,

my overdrive goes 45-47mph,

get ur facts right,

nitro~freek

[pudder]

Do you know for a fact it will go that fast?

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

with a new tuned pipe,

speed gun,

YES


nitro~freek

[what_up_kid18]

I've had an electric evader since september '02 and the only thing I have had to replace was the diff gear because it was too tight (this is my first R/C car) and my front body post because of a head-on collision w/ my cousins stampede. :D The electric is strong, and the nitro is difinitly stronger.:D

[banditwing]

Hey dude, yes I looked at RCCA, and they said it goes 33.7 mph so i was being nice and rounded up to 34!

Look, taken right out of rcca, and no way adding a tuned pipe will get it up to 45-47, your radar gun is out of WACK!!!

Look: It sounded a little rich, so I turned in the needle valve an 1/8 tunr and was then satisfied that I was getting top speed out of the Velocity .17. I pulled out the radar gun, and the truck registered 33.7 mph.

Don't tell me to check my facts, go check you radar gun dude, cause the stock engine sucks and you know it. And i believe RCCA is correct with their "Better than the cops use" radar gun.

It's in the april 2002 issue, page 96 if you want to see for yourself buddy!

If you are saying that you put a new engine in your overdrive, then yes it probly will go faster than my truck. But if you have the stock engine, then most likely no. I was refering to the fact that duratrax engiens arent that great.

And get your facts right!!

[what_up_kid18]

This engine is made by O.S. engines!

This is not the duratrax engines that were in the other duratrax nitro models.:D See for your self here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDJL9**&P=7

It says "Powered by an OS .18 (3.0cc) engine"

:D :D :D

[banditwing]

Well i didn't notice that that the engine was made by os when i first posted, but my second post was regarding the overdrive, which does have a dtx engine. I don't mean to flame anybody or be harsh. But when someone says my post is wrong, and meanwhile i have the right info and they don't. that just makes me :mad:

[what_up_kid18]

:D WOW!
I wonder how fast it goes.http://duratrax.com/cars/dtxd62gallerya-2.jpg

I hope to get it soon!

[what_up_kid18]

does anyone know how fast this truck goes?:confused:

how long can it be run w/out refueling?:confused:

is there any truck that has better value?:confused:

:confused:

[pudder]

Other nitro ST's that have more value right off hand would be the AE GT and Losi XXX-NT.

[what_up_kid18]

how much?:confused:

what size engine?:confused:

[pudder]

Go look for yourself.

www.teamlosi.com
www.rc10.com

[what_up_kid18]

they only have .15 engines

[pudder]

The RTR's (AE and Losi) come with the .15's. The other versions don't some with an engine or electronics, because they are race purpose trucks, and you have to buy your own electronics and engine for them.

[what_up_kid18]

thanks for the advice. I'll look into it!;)

[puribong]

This truck seems to have good racing potential.
If you want something else, you can get GT team built for around $160. I bought one and it is really a good truck.

[supernitro_guy1]

this truck looks nice to me, I think I'll get it, mayve later...

[orbitron]

Can't wait for the alum A- arms. The nitro will destroy the plastic ones at an alarming pace.

[thatguy16]

Assuming that this is a bored out .12/.15, for an .18 engine, the heat sink seems way too small. The HB .18 looks like it has a bigger head and people have complained about it overheating, so imagine how hot the DTX .18 will get.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxg0225.jpg

The way I see it, either:
A) The engine will get hot enough to bake a pizza on it while driving the truck (Although pizza and R/C is a mix :D ) or,
B) In order to keep the engine running within safe temperatuers, it will have to be detuned enough to negate any power advantage the larger displacement was supposed to give it.

[pudder]

Obviously those people were tuning them wrong... or they are just hot running engines. I have seen some O.S.'s that run over 100 degrees farenheight higher than they should, with right handling, as well as sound.

[PITBULL]

Pudder, or anyone... when does this truck come out.. when can we buy one..

[supernitro_guy1]

some time in february

[supernitro_guy1]

tower says in late february.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

eww thats sick

[Coconut]

Personally'I haven't seen a smallblock .18 that doesn't run hot. They all need afteramrt heads unless run extremely rich.Maybe the Siro will break that trend.

[PITBULL]

just so everyone knows, especially for those like myself who was anticipating getting the nitro evader at the latest in late feb.... according to towerhobbies.com(our source for the nitro evader's release), now shows that the nitro evader will be in stock late march... bummer huh?

[LosiRacer89]

yo should my friend get this truck once it comes out late March he has never been into nitro or anything but i will give him my .02 on nitro or should he get a diff truck

[ND4SPDR]

Originally posted by synapse75
i dont think any other truck is going to stand up to much more abuse than the evader cand stand up to...

You, quite obviously, have never driven a Rustler. :) As far as the N-Evader, I'll pass, thank you very much. I'd rather have a GT...heck, even an N. Rusty.

[pudder]

I would also get a GT. Of course it doesn't help on my choice that I am brand loyal to AE.

[seca95]

does any one have one yet?

[Kenny123]

The Nitro Evader ST is in stock at tower hobbies!!

[Privdog]

hey all... im a nOOb to these boards so bare with me. Just bought a new Nitro Evader ST, actually i put it in layaway but its as good as mine in a few days when i get the cash. this will be my second Nitro truck, i decided on Duratrax from expierience of my first truck its seemed to be tough as nails its a Maximum ST about 4 years old now on its second engine, only problem i had with it were the cheapo tires and shocks. after reading these forums for a few days that seems to be pretty common with those trucks. im rebuilding it ATM i'll post pics when im done with it. now for the reason im posting, has anyone had any expierience with the N-Evader ST? im pretty confident i made the right choice, im just wondering if theres anything i should look out for. and whats with people not liking duratrax? i went to a local track the other day to get parts for my Max St, and they're like haha, that's a POS. been going for 4 years now it hasnt been a POS to me im just now rebuilding it. Well i cant wait to get my new truck. sorry for the long post. thanks in advance..
-Priv

[Evadinya]

Its my first nitro so i dont have anything to base
it on, but in my oppinion this is a quick truck. I dont think i would want it to go much faster. As
for parts breaking, it seems to be very durable.
The other night i bashed in my header/manifold after hitting a shopping cart being pushed by a bum head on.I was probably going about 30mph keeping my eye on the car and BAM! Looking back its F-in funny considering its only a $9 part. 1 piece of advise is that you will probably have to adjust the low end on it in order to get it started the first time. I know it says not to until it is broke in, but i tried for 2hrs and 2 blisters later it would start for 10 sec tops then die. feeling long winded so later:D

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Evadinya
Its my first nitro so i dont have anything to base
it on, but in my oppinion this is a quick truck. I dont think i would want it to go much faster. As
for parts breaking, it seems to be very durable.
The other night i bashed in my header/manifold after hitting a shopping cart being pushed by a bum head on.I was probably going about 30mph keeping my eye on the car and BAM! Looking back its F-in funny considering its only a $9 part. 1 piece of advise is that you will probably have to adjust the low end on it in order to get it started the first time. I know it says not to until it is broke in, but i tried for 2hrs and 2 blisters later it would start for 10 sec tops then die. feeling long winded so later:D

haha that's funny.. i got two blisters too from yanking on mine when i first got it. i didn't mess with the low speed, just put a few drops of nitro into it, then i had to run the first tank through with the glo starter still attached. 8 tanks later she purrs like a kitten... :cool: always starts on first or second pull.. and yes it is a quick truck, specially after 5 tanks..

pics of the day i got it.. :)
http://www.enertrans.com/rc/NitroEvader2.jpg
http://www.enertrans.com/rc/NitroEvader1.jpg

will take some new pictures of it when i get home from the track this evening.

[Privdog]

not so new lookin nemore.. :(
http://www.enertrans.com/rc/Evader1.jpg

[Kenny123]

Privdog how did you like the truck? How well does it handle and jump?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Kenny123
Privdog how did you like the truck? How well does it handle and jump?

i love it.. it handles jumps very well... i had to set the slipper, has a lot of power. i'll try to get a video today of it jumping.

[Privdog]

well track was closed today.. getting read for off-road ROAR Nationals(might have to go watch that :) ) so i couldn't run at the track today, but i told kenny i would get some video of the Evader jumping. well i did, cept i was the only one there(at the lake) hence the terrible camera angles. it's a little hard to drive and film at the same time. :D anyway heres the cheesy little video i just made. it's windows media format will need media player to play it.
High Quality (1.17 MB) (http://www.enertrans.com/rc/NitroEvader_0002.wmv)
Low Quality (345k) (http://www.enertrans.com/rc/NitroEvader_0001.wmv)

i was bored... :cool:

edit: if you dont want it to stream right-click link and save target as.

[Evadinya]

Hey Priv,
Is it just me, or does this truck throw alot of nitro out of the fuel cell? This thing gets pretty dirty even runnin on the street.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Evadinya
Hey Priv,
Is it just me, or does this truck throw alot of nitro out of the fuel cell? This thing gets pretty dirty even runnin on the street.

mine did when i first got it.. not that bad now with it tuned right, doesnt waste near as much fuel.

[seca95]

anybody race this truck yet? how did it do?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by seca95
anybody race this truck yet? how did it do?

i haven't "raced" it, but i've raced other trucks, faster than any 1/10 STs i've put it up against and a few buggys..

[seca95]

how well does it handle compared to the other race trucks?
are you happy with the engine? I heard they were a little touchy during break in

[Privdog]

Originally posted by seca95
how well does it handle compared to the other race trucks?
are you happy with the engine? I heard they were a little touchy during break in

it handles great.. i set it up for how i drive(duh).. spring tenison and shock oil.. the engine was touchy at break in, but i learned a lot from it and can help anyone out that needs help getting it running.. once its broke in though its starts on the 2nd pull everytime, unless you got a worn glo-plug.. that's not the engines fault though. one thing i would suggest do when/if you get one is put srink wrap around where the drive shaft meets the axle.Link (http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/crash_pruf.asp) i had a pin fall out and was down for a week. hopefully this will keep me from loosing another.

[NitroBoy24]

Do you have any idea how much faster the nitro evader would be vs a RC10GT in a Drag race? Im lookin at both of these as my first nitro RC truck and am leaning towards the nitro evader after i fell in love w/it (NOT really, just a point) in the RCCA and at my lhs. Just want to know your opinion on it:D

[Qube]

Evader here I come. Had an Axis, Maxx and Rush before and still have the verniable Street Force. Was deciding between the new 2.5 Rustler and this, and I decided because of the warranty.

I've had an absolutely awesome experience with their StressTech service so to heck with the 2.5TRX speed and ez-start. My buddy may be getting one too to it'll be more of a driver vs driver rather than equipment. ;) See you soon.

Now then my question:

I have a huge fuel filter left over from the Axis. Anything else I would need right off the bat? Say from the dollar store or otherwise? :D

[crono man]

hey guys does the engine start pretty easily with the pull start or will i have to invest in a starter box?

[raptorridr660r]

I just broke mine in and it starts very easily! I am impressed with the engine. Easy to tune as well. I like it alot better then my TRX .15pro. I would not worry about a starter box.

[crono man]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
I just broke mine in and it starts very easily! I am impressed with the engine. Easy to tune as well. I like it alot better then my TRX .15pro. I would not worry about a starter box.

thanks raptor

any info on top-speed? cant seem to find it anywhere!:)

[raptorridr660r]

Well I am still running a little rich and have not fully tuned it for performance yet, but it is pretty powerful. Faster then my T-maxx for sure. Not as fast as a Rustler on top, but probably faster then the losi and associated stadiums.

[crono man]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Well I am still running a little rich and have not fully tuned it for performance yet, but it is pretty powerful. Faster then my T-maxx for sure. Not as fast as a Rustler on top, but probably faster then the losi and associated stadiums.

few noobie questions left:)

ive been a electric guy all my life,will i have a hard time setting the engine?

also does the engine keep its setting fairly well once its adjusted?

[raptorridr660r]

Well if you just take your time you should be ok with it. This engine seems to tune well and I have heard it holds its tune pretty good too. Just remember to turn the screws in very small increments. A small turn make a noticeable difference. Also watch the temps to be sure you are not running lean. This thing is running like 80 degrees less them my TRX .15!! But like I said it si still on the rich side.

[crono man]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Well if you just take your time you should be ok with it. This engine seems to tune well and I have heard it holds its tune pretty good too. Just remember to turn the screws in very small increments. A small turn make a noticeable difference. Also watch the temps to be sure you are not running lean. This thing is running like 80 degrees less them my TRX .15!! But like I said it si still on the rich side.

ok thanks alot raptor for answering all my questions i think i just found myself my next bashing car!:)

[raptorridr660r]

Well I have an update on my Nitro Evader.... I have been running it on a paved parking lot since I got it to break it in and tune it. I got it tuned pretty well today and hit the local track. This thing is fast and powerful. I had to loosen the slipper clutch a little more then stock just to keep it from doing donuts on the dirt. I have Dirt Hawgs all the way around so I could save the stock tires strickly for the track. It handles pretty well with them. Takes jumps nice as well. I have had my T-Maxx on the track and there is no comparison in the handling, my first time around was way better then I can do with the Maxx! Like others were saying, after break-in and getting it tuned well it was pulling wheelies in the grass!! I am very pleased with the Evader, glad to see Duratrax starting down the right path of making nice vehicals :) I also took a few spills and had no broken parts which is a good thing too.

Also on a tech note... As those of you the own the Evader most likely know, the gas tank lid likes to open a little and let fuel spill all over everything. I took a strong rubber band and took off the tank and wrapped it around and over the lid and put it back together, then put a zip tie on the rubber band to get a good hold on it and move it while fueling and it hasn't leaked a drop since and it stays much much cleaner. Not the prettiest thing, but well worth it at clean up time..

[Privdog]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
.......
Also on a tech note... As those of you the own the Evader most likely know, the gas tank lid likes to open a little and let fuel spill all over everything. I took a strong rubber band and took off the tank and wrapped it around and over the lid and put it back together, then put a zip tie on the rubber band to get a good hold on it and move it while fueling and it hasn't leaked a drop since and it stays much much cleaner. Not the prettiest thing, but well worth it at clean up time..

you have a picture of how you did that? i've been trying other things and has helped a little.. it happens mostly if it gets turn over and it has a lot of gas in it. the way you have it, can you fill your tank still with the body on?

[raptorridr660r]

Privdog, I will get you a pic tonight or tomorrow. I didn't even know you could gas it with the body on... Do you go through the side window??

Also, what is the red cloth deal that came with the Evader?? I haven't figured out what it is for.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Privdog, I will get you a pic tonight or tomorrow. I didn't even know you could gas it with the body on... Do you go through the side window??

Also, what is the red cloth deal that came with the Evader?? I haven't figured out what it is for.

yeah through the side window.. attach a ziptie to the tank lid to reach to the window.

[raptorridr660r]

Privdog, here is a pic of what I did to the tank. I am going to eventually come up with something better, but it works. I have not leaked a drop of fuel since. I put a zip tie on the rubber band, so I could probably still fill with the body on.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Privdog, here is a pic of what I did to the tank. I am going to eventually come up with something better, but it works. I have not leaked a drop of fuel since. I put a zip tie on the rubber band, so I could probably still fill with the body on.
thats pretty much what i envisioned by your description.. don't think that'll work for me though.. think it will make it a pain to fuel.

[raptorridr660r]

Yeah, I know its not the greatest, but it works for now, I am going to try and come up with something better soon. Maybe a stronger tank lid spring from another car??

[Privdog]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Yeah, I know its not the greatest, but it works for now, I am going to try and come up with something better soon. Maybe a stronger tank lid spring from another car??

possibly.. i was thinking if i could find a donut type washer to fit inside that might work.. i dunno.. just have to try it i guess.

[NitroEvader01]

Well I bought my Nitro evader last week from Tower Hobbies online. I got it yesterday Air mail. I'm overseas (U.S. Army) in Germany and I was happy as a kid in a candy store when i opened it up. Everything was going great, I broke in the engine (very quick process) and was on my 6th tank of fuel when a buddy of mine asked to drive it. Thats where i made the mistake. As soon as he took control he smacked it into a wall at around 30 MPH or so! He stripped my pinion gear, snapped the front stock bumper, and stripped the screws out of my front upper brace. Now these parts are nothing more than $20 total but it's just the principle that now i have to wait another week for parts because my "buddy" didn't know how to brake. Simple word of advice, if your friends don't know how to brake they belong nowhere near a nitro especially one as fast as the Nitro Evader, I'de say est. top speed out of the box is around 45-50 MPH with the beefy .18.

[raptorridr660r]

Your right its fast. I have a T-maxx and the Evader. I drag raced them the other night and the evader was way faster, It was in a big parking lot so they had to reach top speed and the Maxx goes 30, I'd say the Evader at least goes high 30s low 40s for sure. I don't let many peolpe drive my nitros either for that same reason. I hate paying to fix something that someone else destroyed :)

[Privdog]

Originally posted by NitroEvader01
Well I bought my Nitro evader last week from Tower Hobbies online. I got it yesterday Air mail. I'm overseas (U.S. Army) in Germany and I was happy as a kid in a candy store when i opened it up. Everything was going great, I broke in the engine (very quick process) and was on my 6th tank of fuel when a buddy of mine asked to drive it. Thats where i made the mistake. As soon as he took control he smacked it into a wall at around 30 MPH or so! He stripped my pinion gear, snapped the front stock bumper, and stripped the screws out of my front upper brace. Now these parts are nothing more than $20 total but it's just the principle that now i have to wait another week for parts because my "buddy" didn't know how to brake. Simple word of advice, if your friends don't know how to brake they belong nowhere near a nitro especially one as fast as the Nitro Evader, I'de say est. top speed out of the box is around 45-50 MPH with the beefy .18.

ouch... that sucks? did he even offer to help pay to fix it?

[raptorridr660r]

I am just wonder what this is??? It came with my Nitro Evader, I don't see it anywhere in the manuals or anything and have nheard nothing about it.

[raptorridr660r]

I was just looking at my truck and noticed that the slipper cluch adjustment nut looked like is was all the way tight. The first time I had it on the track I loosend it a little from where it was stock to stop it from spinning out. I had it out the other day for about 3 tanks of fuel, what would cause it to tighten on its own in those 3 tanks. Also now how many turns out from tight is stock?? I haven't run it since, I hope it didn't mess up the Diff or anything. What do you guys think could have been wrong?? Thanks

[crip]

I want one next, I have the Overdrive at the moment. As soon as my quad sells, I'm going to buy the Evader. I don't race, I just play to kill time. I have been really wondering about this RC, but saw it got thumbs up in the RC mag.

[monyet fangkeh]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
I am just wonder what this is??? It came with my Nitro Evader, I don't see it anywhere in the manuals or anything and have nheard nothing about it. is the frequency ribbon to show what frequency ur using. usually the frequency is color coded. and the frequency ribbin si goes on the edge of ur antena of the transmitter.

[crip]

So the weak spring on the fuel door is the only down side, letting fuel out in the car. Do any of you think that this will be upgraded any time soon?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by crip
So the weak spring on the fuel door is the only down side, letting fuel out in the car. Do any of you think that this will be upgraded any time soon?

i don't think it's all that big of a deal.. but yeah i think the spring needs to be a little stiffer.. not sure if or when they would change it. gonna continue to look for a fix..

[RC_Rocks]

Well today I went down to the LHS and picked up my Nitro Evader. I broke it in then leaned it out and I must say its FAST! Great acceleration, infact it wants to lob the front end up almost too much when it finds traction. Suspensions seems good and overall it seems WAY better than my old Rush with the .15ss. :)

[raptorridr660r]

I found an Evader on ebay with a different tank on it last night and emailed the guy. He got a RC10GT tank and drilled 3 new holes and it fixes 2 things, one is the weak spring, the other is.. If you notice when you fill the tank fuel starts going up the pressure tube to the exhaust. The AE tank has the pressure line on the lid and it solves that as well. He says it runs longer on a tank of gas because you don't loose any out the exhaust either. The tank is part #7719, there is a 7720 too, but it has a line like the evader stock tank. Sounds like the higher end GTs come with one and the RTR GTs has the other. Is it worth all that work?? Maybe, I am thinking about getting that tank.

[raptorridr660r]

I am also wondering if anyone has started to mod their Evaders yet?? Pipes, Filters, Aluminum?? The only things I have done is put Dirt hawgs all the way around for street and grass driving (stocks for the track) and installed a wide RPM bumper on the front. It is for a rustler but I drilled new holes in it to fit. I also have a JR XR2 radio laying around that I think I am going to put in the Evader. What have you guys done??

[Privdog]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
I am also wondering if anyone has started to mod their Evaders yet?? Pipes, Filters, Aluminum?? The only things I have done is put Dirt hawgs all the way around for street and grass driving (stocks for the track) and installed a wide RPM bumper on the front. It is for a rustler but I drilled new holes in it to fit. I also have a JR XR2 radio laying around that I think I am going to put in the Evader. What have you guys done??

the RC10GT gas tank idea sounds promising.. will look into those. as for any real modding i havent really done any yet. slight mod to plug in the rechargable reciever pack. just had to lengthen the wires. not really a mod. changed fuel line, air filter and added fuel filter. all not really mods either. :) clipped a jeep tire with it today. :) oops.. turnbuckle popped off its ball.. scared me for a second.

[simononator]

I just bought one of these and the motor blew because it is a cheap piston and sleeve but i put a 15 fantom the new ones and its fast

[Qube]

Question for you all. Going to grab two nitro Evaders and saw it's that horrid white clutch shoe. Which ones will fit onto there? On the SFGP I put the MIP Maxx shoes. What about the Evader?

[raptorridr660r]

Good question on the clucth shoes. Really the stocks are not to bad. But let us know if you find out. I am still interested in pipes. I'm sure most any can fit, but I am wondering which make the best power.

Privdog, what kinda air filter are you using? I am not to fond of the stock one. I have a motor savers on my Maxx and it pretty good.

[Racerxx]

Going to be racing the evader and was wondering what spare parts I should get. Examples ( Arms, Bulk heads ects). Thank you for your time

[RC_Rocks]

Hey guys i need help. I can't get the brakes to work on my evader. It doesn't matter how much tension I put on the collar the brake lever just won't push hard enough against the rotor to stop the car. It drags like crazy the way I have it set up and still doesn't brake well. Please help, as adjusting the linkage doesn't seem to help at all!

:mad:

[raptorridr660r]

I just got back from my local track about and hour ago, an I have the same issue, the brakes kinda suck. I also adjusted them alot. I am gonna try and put a straighter linkage on it, I'll bet there is too much flex in the stock one. It looks like it takes alot of force to make those brakes worth anything.

[RC_Rocks]

Hey everyone. I have another problem although it is alot better than the brake problem :). This one is that I can't keep the front wheels on the ground. When I drive it on the pavement it just wants to flip itself all the time. What can I do to kinda tame the power? I want it to be just as fast but maybe accelerate a little mellower. lol

[raptorridr660r]

Mine was the same, I loosened the slipper clutch a little and it did the trick. When I was in the dirt at the track and I floored it it would just whip a dounut. It much better with it a little loose.

[NitroBoy24]

Does anyone know what the nitro evaders top speed is?

[Qube]

Finally got it. One each for my buddies. Question. What's that small tube of blue stuff? I hazard a guess at Thread Lock.

NB: one guy had his brake with a lot of fade set. I had one rear shock sticking (air bubbles). Few tires were not fully glued. Else it's pretty much RTR. Awesome.

=----- torontorc.ca

[Privdog]

the blue tube is air filter oil.. supposed to soke the foam element with it.. then after you clean it..

[Qube]

Originally posted by Privdog
the blue tube is air filter oil.. supposed to soke the foam element with it.. then after you clean it..

Uh oh. Uh OH. Well. Never too late :) I'll have to reread the instructions. Thanks! Glad I didn't use it as thread lock yet!

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Qube
Uh oh. Uh OH. Well. Never too late :) I'll have to reread the instructions. Thanks! Glad I didn't use it as thread lock yet!

lol... :p well if you did use it as thread lock you probably wouldn't have hurt anything..

[Qube]

A question for thee...

After now nine tanks, the truck is having trouble idling. It would die in no more than two seconds off throttle. Tried leaning out the low end to no avail. I've now set the idle gap larger. Has anyone else encountered this? Both my truck and by buddy's has the same 'problem'.

=----- torontorc.ca

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Qube
A question for thee...

After now nine tanks, the truck is having trouble idling. It would die in no more than two seconds off throttle. Tried leaning out the low end to no avail. I've now set the idle gap larger. Has anyone else encountered this? Both my truck and by buddy's has the same 'problem'.

=----- torontorc.ca

you changed the glo plug yet? set the idle stop screw back to 1mm..

[Qube]

Well I opened up the idle on both trucks and it's fine. Another question...

On my truck, it now revs and revs... the spur gear moves... the shaft the spur gear sits on moves... but the truck doesn't... unless it revs REALLY high. All the time the spur gear moves. I do not believe it is the diff nor clutch as the brake disc moves. I've taken apart the gear box with no visible damage. I've tried tightening both the diff and the spur. Still NG. If I put the truck in the air, the tires will spin. Just on the ground they won't, but yes, gears still move. What's going on?

[raptorridr660r]

Maybe check and see that all the pins are still in the drive shafts?? Someone on here had one fall out before. I also had to turn my idle up alot after break in, it has been running like a champ ever since. I almost have a full gallon through it now.

[Qube]

Found the culprit. Disassembled the diff and found the main gear melted and the balls... well in a mess.

Going to take a while to get the part. Two questions:

1. How to prevent this in the future?
2. Can I 'lock' the diff for now and run it with no adverse effects for the time being?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Qube
Found the culprit. Disassembled the diff and found the main gear melted and the balls... well in a mess.

Going to take a while to get the part. Two questions:

1. How to prevent this in the future?
2. Can I 'lock' the diff for now and run it with no adverse effects for the time being?

don't buy plastic diff.. and try to stay out of tall grass..

[Qube]

Tall grass is a sure stayaway... but what about a replacement diff? Which one will fit if not the plastic OEM one?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Qube
Tall grass is a sure stayaway... but what about a replacement diff? Which one will fit if not the plastic OEM one?

Not to sure on that one.. haven't had to look for one yet.

[Qube]

No, there isn't much new. Just a post to promote interest in this thread again :) Anyhow, was going to clock the Evader with a GPS today but broke the rear hub carrier in a jump. Will replace it and clock very soon.

----- torontorc.ca

[Qube]

No, there isn't much new. Just a post to promote interest in this thread again :) Anyhow, was going to clock the Evader with a GPS today but broke the rear hub carrier in a jump. Will replace it and clock very soon.

----- torontorc.ca

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Qube
No, there isn't much new. Just a post to promote interest in this thread again :) Anyhow, was going to clock the Evader with a GPS today but broke the rear hub carrier in a jump. Will replace it and clock very soon.

----- torontorc.ca

not sure how accurate that would be.. but it's worth a try i guess.

[raptorridr660r]

GPS is very accurate, I have one and thought about doing the same thing!

[Privdog]

yes it is.. gets better all the time.. hand-helds around 50-100 meters prolly.. we use sub meter accuracy GPS, but that's two much stuff to get on a RC car.. i assume you mean with a handheld? they are accurate enough to find yourself on a map..

[Qube]

Actually, four satellite lock. Accurate to 6 meters. However, during consistant travel, speed is measured very accurately.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Qube
Actually, four satellite lock. Accurate to 6 meters. However, during consistant travel, speed is measured very accurately.

it's measured acurataly from a regular car maybe where there is consistant travel.. that's my point, RC cars are far from consistant only going full speed for less than 6 seconds..

[Qube]

And hence an average of many runs at approximately 150 yards is used. Else, I'd just use a timer and two lines but hey, it's neater to see a digital number right off the bat.

[raptorridr660r]

Its time for me to pick up some spare glow plugs now and I just want to see what you guys are using. I have been running the OS A3 plug and have had no problems. I am gonna stay with that unless there is an advantage to using a different one. What do you guys run and why?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Its time for me to pick up some spare glow plugs now and I just want to see what you guys are using. I have been running the OS A3 plug and have had no problems. I am gonna stay with that unless there is an advantage to using a different one. What do you guys run and why?

i've been using DTX-3005 the Duratrax Gold Plugs.. i've tried A3's too, didnt like em as much.. probably be fine with some fine tuning though.

[discomoose2]

Hey Guys,
Ive been running micros for about year and now I'm ready to step up with the big boys. I was wondering if this car would be good as a first nitro. Will it be easy to tune, maintain etc. while also being somewhat competitive? Also, what are some things that might break quickly and will have to be replaced. If you guys could answer these questions and any other general info I need to know it would be greatly apreciated. Thanks!

-Discomoose2

[Qube]

If you want a nitro evader... (or any for that matter).

You need fuel.
FUEL FILTER! If you're going to do any sort of worthy dirt running, don't forget it!
Decent air filter AND OIL (same comment as above)

Other than that, nothing else. It helps to have a supportive LHS that knows nitro. Oh, and have patience.

http://majere.hypermart.net/evader.jpg

[label]

Qube- What tires are those one there. My stock ones are wearing quick i am gonna need new ones soon. Did u have to buy anything else becouse those look bigger than stock.

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by label
Qube- What tires are those one there. My stock ones are wearing quick i am gonna need new ones soon. Did u have to buy anything else becouse those look bigger than stock.

Those look like they are the Maxx Masher tires. I am using Dirt Hawgs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=7) on mine.

[raptorridr660r]

I also have Dirt Hawgs on mine. I like those Mashers too, I had a set of those on my T-Maxx when I had it. I really like those rims, are those for an XXXt or something?? and who makes em?

[Qube]

Those are Pro-line Masher 2000 wrapped around HPI MT Mesh rims.

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by Qube
Found the culprit. Disassembled the diff and found the main gear melted and the balls... well in a mess.

Going to take a while to get the part. Two questions:

1. How to prevent this in the future?
2. Can I 'lock' the diff for now and run it with no adverse effects for the time being?


This also happens whipping cookies in the street with Dirt Hawgs on. :mad: :mad:

Qube,

Did you find a replacement diff? Other then the plastic OEM one.

Also do the HPI MT Mesh rims fit tight on the hex pin?
My E-rustler hex adaptors are a little sloppy on the pin. I prefer to use a rim that fits tight.

Let me know, I am getting an Order ready for Tower.

Guys,

Any other items I should get right away.

I plan on getting the following:

RC10 tank. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=ASCC7719&P=K

HPI MT Mesh Front and rear rims. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD76&P=K &
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD73&P=K

Any other rims that fit tight?

Any other items?

Your help and time is greatly appreciated.

[Qube]

I plan on getting the tank also (damn o-ring on the stock!). The HPI rims are 'universal' and have adapters (as most do). The adapter fits nice and snugly as does the hex itself.

Haven't looked for a replacement diff... as I am using the stock one and will always have one on hand (StressTech warranty) because I purchased an extra one for $3.

[seca95]

Haven't looked for a replacement diff... as I am using the stock one and will always have one on hand (StressTech warranty) because I purchased an extra one for $3.

might want to check your waranty info, I don't think the gears are covered by the waranty

[Qube]

No, the gears aren't 'normally' covered by warranty. You can imply what you wish from such a statement :)

[label]

Will that work as the spur gear or is it for the Electric Evader.[http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMM3&P=0

[Nitroaddict]

I was wondering if anyone found a better brake than the stock one, I adjusted my linkage but the brake still sucks...


Thanks,

Nitroaddict :)

[Freedom]

Originally posted by label
Will that work as the spur gear or is it for the Electric Evader.[http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMM3&P=0

Tighten the caliper screws that should do it.;)

[raptorridr660r]

I think the brakes work well, mine just lock up and the thing just keeps sliding, makes it look like they are not working.

[twistedblkbird]

hello all.... well I am new to the board, well new to the hobby too and I bought a Nitro Evader about a week or so ago and just found this forum.
well here is my question/concern. I think that it maybe inexperience or something but so far, the front shock tower broke and the bottom mounting screw, the left front a-arm broke at the hinge pin, I stripped a tooth off of the spur gear, and today I broke the left rear hub carrier. ok, so I have been practicing jumping but......
so I started to look around for alum. upgrades but I have not seen too many.... has anyone seen alum a-arms, shock towers, etc..... besides the uppgrades that Duratrax offers?

[raptorridr660r]

There was a guy on ebay selling aluminum part for the electric evader. Eveything would work except the rear arms I think.

[twistedblkbird]

i check out the auctions on e-bay and the only thing that I could really find were cnc milled aluminium carrier blocks and the steering knuckles.... does anyone else know where I could find al. shock towers,a-arms etc?

[raptorridr660r]

Keep watching ebay, the guy will put more on there. He usually has both shock towers and all the arm on there as a set. Email him and tell him that you have a Nitro Evader and want whatever parts fit the Nitro version!

[bassist 281]

i want to get a nitro stadium around the price of $300. and i was wondering if the nitro duratrax evader st was it.

thanks

[twistedblkbird]

Originally posted by bassist 281
i want to get a nitro stadium around the price of $300. and i was wondering if the nitro duratrax evader st was it.

thanks


I just picked up mine two weeks ago for $260

[label]

Do u guys think the 2 speed of the Maximum ST fit the Evader.


Here is the link if u want to see it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVU70&P=7

[twistedblkbird]

Originally posted by label
Do u guys think the 2 speed of the Maximum ST fit the Evader.


Here is the link if u want to see it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVU70&P=7

well, I looked at the manual with the link.... it seems that it might the only thing I could think of that might not match is clearance on the chassis/wheel, and i would see if the part numbers on the diffs are the same, if they are, i would say go for it, then let us know if it does.....

[label]

I am not gonna get it now just wanted to see if its worth saving for.

[label]

One more have you guys put any hop ups on ur evaders becouse mine stock to the bone. And if you guys have put something on tell us how it worked.

[Qube]

Well for the $300 price point, I would go either with the Academy 4WD or the Evader 2WD...

Dollar for dollar, the Evader is the best deal. However... for a 4WD same price as the Evader LESS all of the other features (.18, CVD, alu shocks, etc), it's your call.

-----
torontorc.ca

[ND_RC]

Originally posted by label
One more have you guys put any hop ups on ur evaders becouse mine stock to the bone. And if you guys have put something on tell us how it worked.

Here are some of the things I have bought for my Evader.

*Clean-Flow Glow Fuel Filter
*Associated Fuel Tank RC10GT/NTC3 - #7719 - The best investment so far. I don't have near the fuel mess/waste I had with the stock tank.
*Du-Bro Glow Starter and Charger - another good investment, the stock starter is junk.
*2 - 2200mah rechargeable c cell batteries
*Raytek MiniTemp MT4 temp gun
*Modified RPM E-Rustler front bumper
*Modified Aluminum E-Rustler rear bumper
*Various rims and tires

[raptorridr660r]

Here are the things I use with my evader, not really any performace upgrades yet, but it performs very well stock.
Rechargable glow ingnitor, different tires and rims, Rustler RPM bumper modded to fit, temp gun comes in handy, and I have 30 wt. trininty shock oil to use in the shocks left over from my savage. Does anyone know the stock oil weight in the shocks? I want to make it better on the jumps.
I plan to get a better air filter and maybe some carbon fiber upgrades that Duratrax will be making. And more tire combos as well

[label]

is there any carbon fiber parts or any stronger parts than just the plastic

[Qube]

Duratrax making carbon fiber parts for the Evader? Neat!

Have no idea what the stock weight is but it's equiv to nothing. I put 70w into them for a nice plush ride. Necessary for them huge Masher 2000 tires. :D

[raptorridr660r]

From what I have heard, they have a Evader Pro comming out soon. It will have alot of carbon fiber stock so I'm sure they will sell it seperatly.
70 WT???? wow, I might have to go higher then 30! It feels soft now, I wish I knew what was in there stock.

[Qube]

Pro? Wow. Well I hope so.

My current problem is stalling. It idles fine and even after some moderate/low speed running. After a sustained duration of highspeed runs, however, it will die upon stopping after about 5 seconds. Grr...

[raptorridr660r]

probably just a little tuning issue, mine is running great, better then most other nitros I have ever had! Starts right up and doesn't stall till I shut it off. Temps are great with this engine as well, 230 tops when just playing around and 250 when I am really running it hard. Thats with the body on and a hole in the front window. I am not sure, but your stalling is probably just a little tweek on one of the needles.

[twistedblkbird]

ok , as far as upgrades go... I just put in 40 wt shock oil in the front along with losi 4.1 (blue) springs.....and man what a difference!!!!!!!!:D
also.... in comparing the suspension setups of ae and losi I notices that the Losi XXX-NT front A-Arms are IDENTICAL to the nitro evader st! so yeah I know time for the bashing to start, but since no one that I have found yet is making alum. front a-arms for the evader, I am just starting my search to see if anyone offers them for the xxx-nt
i will let you know what transpires

[Qube]

Please do! Otherwise, I'll consider doing a full upgrade to Pro when it arrives :)

-----
torontorc.ca

[raptorridr660r]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=140795
That is where I heard about the Pro, I don't know if there will be a Pro Nitro or not, but some of the parts for that will fit the nitro....

[twistedblkbird]

as far as I know, the pro version will be out sometime late this month or early next, and there is not musch in the way of alum, just graphite

[label]

Do you guys think some parts will fit the our evaders since the pro is electric. Me and my friend have been breaking a good amount of plastic parts just would like to get something stronger that will save trips to lhs.

[twistedblkbird]

as far as the upgrades go, there is no real difference between the electric and the nitro except the obvious.....

also ... update on the upgrades... Team Losi p/n A-9710
adam drake edition losi xxx-nt graphite front a arms... since the losi xxx-nt front a-arms are the same, why not add some graphite... this is not confirmed, but I will be verifing this sometime this week.....

[label]

will rear ones work. also the head thats on the duratrax page for hop ups where to get that becouse tower doesnt have also will any other head work.

[twistedblkbird]

Originally posted by label
will rear ones work. also the head thats on the duratrax page for hop ups where to get that becouse tower doesnt have also will any other head work.


not sure on the rear, I have not broken any yet so I have not looked in to it. as for the head, I have just started to look for that.... check your lhs, chances are they can order it, and as far as I know, now other head will fit.(at least right now.) I have already found that out. the head is a slight over bore of the os .15, but it is not as big as the .21

give it a couple of months and some of the aftermarket companys will start to make the stuff, but they also need to know that there is an interest too...

[raptorridr660r]

I think duratrax is making a better head for the .18, but thats the only one I have seen. I know that the rear a arms from the electric evader will not fit the nitro but the fronts will and the shock towers front and back should as well. Some Losi parts will work, not sure on the rears....

[label]

isnt there a hot bodies 18 or some other ones. Will any upgrade heads fit off of any of those.

[label]

Hey guys i am having radio trouble. I turn it on and the wheels do try to center them selfs and then they wont move. Have u guys had this problem i am thinking it might be only my crystal.

[raptorridr660r]

I had a little radio trouble as well, it was getting twichy while just stitting still. I had a JR XR2 already so I threw that in there and no more problems since.

[twistedblkbird]

sounds like there is some interference with the rx....

[label]

it fixed it self somehow i unpluged the rx and then i took out the crystal and everytrhing put it back together still wasnt good so i just left it tried it couple hours later and it works all fine

[twistedblkbird]

hey... what ever works, works....

has anyone else had any probs with the brass screw that holds on the the throttle control horn on the carb???? I bypassed the prob and just put on a carb off of my rc plane engine...its an os .40, 3A carb... works great, now if duratrax would get on the ball and start making some diff gears I would be great, but as of now, they are on backorder 'till mid november.

has anyone else fried a diff gear? do you know of any aftermarket companies making them? I really do not want to have my st down for a month waiting on one stupid little $4 gear



sorry about the rant/ramble.... just got home from the bar after a very, very long week! and man, was that some conversation with my friends jose and the capt'n

[Qube]

We've been looking into alu gears for Associated and Losi...

Diff gears aren't bad for $3 CDN a piece. Plenty of stock.

[ND_RC]

Twisted,

Tower has the diff gear in stock. I melted mine also. I bought 2 so, I will always have a spare on hand. :)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDSZ2

Qube, let us know when you find an Aluminum diff gear. :)

[oilman]

I just recieved my nitro evader in the mail today,and I have not run it yet but I noticed that when I turn the rear wheels the gear box feels really rough, is this just because its new. Also I adjusted the mesh between the clutch bell and spur that was fine,thanks in advance. :confused:

[raptorridr660r]

Mine feels the same, I have over 1 gallon through it and it still has that feeling, I think its just that way for some reason. I have never had any problems with it. Just make sure you adjust the ball diff as described in the manual or it can get messed up.

[dicko]

Gday,

I recently bought an evader nitro ST after owning a TTR DT-10. I love the ST. it handles well, and has plenty of power for its weight/size. I recently broke the rear hub and as a result the rear cv joint went with it. I now have the title of breaking the first CV joint in Australia on this car. They haven't heard of another CV jopint breaking on any Duratrax in Australia so I think it must be a defect or a freak landing. The parts are getting sent back to the factory in the US for them to have a look at. All I did was have it land on an angle, rear wheel first over a jump on my local track I watched the rear wheel fold under the car to my horror. I ordered the Ali parts & sdhould have it up & running tonight hopefully. I have given the car a good run prior to this and It has stood up well in all other respects. At least the hub is under the stress test warranty.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

It must be true that I am the first person to break a CV joint in Australia. I just got my parts, the Ali rear hubs came in (they had them in stock) but they don't have CV joints in stock down here. They are on back order! The Ali hubs are beefy though. there is no way that these things will break. The only mod besides the hubs I have done is put a piece of exhaust pipe on the muffler to keep the oil off of the rear swing arm & wheel. I intend to put a JR FM radio in it when I get the money.

Cheers
Dicko.

[oilman]

Is there any place where I can get a different cluch bell (a larger one) for this truck?

[oilman]

Originally posted by raptorridr660r
Mine feels the same, I have over 1 gallon through it and it still has that feeling, I think its just that way for some reason. I have never had any problems with it. Just make sure you adjust the ball diff as described in the manual or it can get messed up.

Yeah you must be right I just ran it and it still feels rough but it works just fine, so no need toworry about it I guess

[dicko]

Oilman,

go to the Duratrax website, there are some on their hopups page. they also have new clutch assemblies to buy as well.

http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/hopups.html

the aluminium hop ups aren't cheap over here. I paid aussie $73 for the rear hubs. but they won't ever need replacing. I will buy the bulkheads at some stage in the future too.

I saw a question earlier about what glow plugs people were using. I am using the OS #8 and it works great for me. our climate is the same mediterranean climate as California here in Adelaide, Australia. & I use a 16% nitro fuel with synthetic and a small amount of castor oil.

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

yo cube i saw your st and was wondering what tuned pipe you got?

[The Modfather]

After some reserach, I decided on the Evader ST for my 13 year old son. As an added bonus, a buddy of mine bought one at the same time! It's a pretty slick truck right out of the box - or so it seemed. I believe that every model has it's shorcomings, and the servo seems to be that shortcoming on the Evader.

My son managed to break the servo (internally) in 2 battery packs. I chalked it up to him being a new driver, and not knowing what kind of abuse a normal RC can take. I replaced his servo w/ an older Futaba I had in one of my old pan cars - he broke that one in less than 5 battery packs. I cursed him up n down about what a crappy driver he was [later I would eat my words] and that he has to buy his own servo now. About 20 minutes after my boy broke his 2nd servo, my buddy busted his up. My buddy didnt' even wreck - his simply "gave up."

So that brings me to my question - how do I prevent this from happening over and over. I know I should upgrade to a steel geared servo (HiTek I think has a pretty decent one) but is there a different steering mechanism for the Evader that I can use that will stop teh breakage? I would think that there would have to be - but I'm unable to find anything.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[dicko]

How tight do you have the tension on the servo saver? maybe it is wound up too tight. I run digital, high torque metal geared servos (JR) on the stearing of all my trucks. I find the stearing mechanism on this truck pretty good compared to some others (ie the TTR DT-10).

Cheers
Dicko.

[The Modfather]

Originally posted by dicko
How tight do you have the tension on the servo saver? maybe it is wound up too tight. I run digital, high torque metal geared servos (JR) on the stearing of all my trucks. I find the stearing mechanism on this truck pretty good compared to some others (ie the TTR DT-10).

Cheers
Dicko.

I hadn't adjusted teh thumbscrew on the truck since it was purchased. Didnt' think it was necessary. I will look @ that as soon as I get a new servo.

Any servo recommendations?

[dicko]

I like the JR ones, but they are expensive. I personally haven't tried any other high torque servos. If you find a good cheap one let me know.

Cheers
Dicko.

[The Modfather]

Originally posted by dicko
I like the JR ones, but they are expensive. I personally haven't tried any other high torque servos. If you find a good cheap one let me know.

Cheers
Dicko.

I have heard some pretty good things about HiTec - they run about $40. That is still cheaper than breaking 4 'cheap' servos.

[label]

i broke 3 servos now
gears keep on striping

[raptorridr660r]

I run a Hitec HS 645MG on my savage and it takes a beating! Good servo for 40 bucks, I may transfer it to my evader and get and even stronger one for the savage. I think it would be a great servo for the evader.

[Qube]

After reading this, I went out to bash a bit in the construction site nearby and BLAM. Steering servo gears probably stripped. I just ballooned all the servos too! :(

[dicko]

I've never bothered ballooning my servos. They should be pretty much water proof as is. If they need ballooning they may as well be replaced anyway with better ones. I just spoke to the guys at my LHS and they recommended the Hi-Tec HS 645MG or the digital version HS 5645MG. That is what they run on their trucks & have had no problems. So that is what I'll get when the stock one goes.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Qube]

I balloon my servos for the winter. The chains are ready. First winter not running a monster truck.

[dicko]

I guess our winters are nice & mild. every few years we get a light snow on the top of the range, but it is generally a mediterranean climate here. hot dusty summers though. beautiful weather.

I am most likely going to get the HS 625MG as it can hold at least 5.5kg and it turns in 0.13-0.16 seconds. should be strong and quick enough for a stadium truck. The JR DS559 I have at the moment is a bit slow.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I have had a problem similar to the one Labal described at the top of page 9. But in my case it was the reverse switch on the transmitter being flicked half across so that there was no signal going to the receiver from the transmitter. once I found the problem I have had no problems.

Cheers
Dicko.

[twistedblkbird]

ok, so I was out running my st today and man it was running good!!!!! I friend has a T-maxx with the new TRX 2.5 engine and all, and yeah I smoked him three times in a row drag racing in the parking lot, first time was both at a standing start, second time was a rolling start, third time-- standing start for me, rolling start for him.. now for the specifics--- outside temp--34 degrees, my head temp--187.5, his--213.5

so, I go home, and want to get a little more run time it... did not adjust a thing, and now the samn thing will not run... I can get it started, with the back tires off of the ground, but as soon as I get the tires on the ground, it stalls--- changed glow plugs, adjusted the slipper clutch( all the way in, then backed it off a 1/4 turn) still will not stay running..... now I did just rebuild the diff last night, but it is still does not make sense....

any clues????:confused:

[dicko]

You may need to increase the idle speed (on your transmitter) until the engine warms up to running temperature. Once your engine is warm it should be OK to reduce the idle speed again. If you try to run a cold engine it will often stall or wear out the piston & liner sooner than expected. While it is warming up give it a few blips to see if it will stall. If it doesn't you should be ready to roll. I have gone through a piston & liner by running an engine too cold and too lean before, it doesn't take long to happen.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Dicko.

[twistedblkbird]

--- thanks --i will give it a try next time I have a chance to run.

[dicko]

Another thought on the engine stall. Check to see that the pipe is clear. It may be filling with exhaust fuel & restricting the flow & causing the engine to overheat. other than that check the OS FQA on their website. OSengines.com

Cheers
Dicko

[Qube]

Are the tires moving when you start it? If so, chances are you need to check the clutch shoes. They may be engaged so as soon as you put the back tires on the ground, the rotation stops and stalls the engine.

[twistedblkbird]

the pipe is clear, and yeah the tires are spinning... I was also thinking clutch...... ok, since this is going to be a first for me, any tips as to checking it? or would it be easier to just replace?

[Qube]

Take it apart and check the condition. The spring may be kinked or broken. If so, just replace the spring or better yet, grab a MIP clutch to drop in.

[twistedblkbird]

Take it apart and check the condition. The spring may be kinked or broken. If so, just replace the spring or better yet, grab a MIP clutch to drop in.

ok---so what is so good about an MIP clutch?

[dicko]

And do you have a part number for the MIP clutch?

I am always on the search for compatible upgrades, but the hardest part is getting a part number to give to the guys at the shop so that they can order it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

Hey does any one know if there is someone who makes a 2-speed transmission for the evader st and a clutch that will work with it?

[dicko]

I don't know of any 2 speed gearboxes to fit. But I found out that the aluminium rear suspension plates that are listed with part numbers in the in the Nitro Evader parts catalogue(under "Optional Parts and Hardware) that comes with the car don't exist. They use some of the numbers for plastic upgrade parts, but the ones listed below don't exist. So if you want them forget it. I am surprised that they list the parts in the catalogue that comes with the car but don't make the parts.

DTXC9581 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 0 degree Blue
DTXC9582 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 0 degree Purple
DTXC9583 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 1 degree Blue
DTXC9584 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 1 degree Purple
DTXC9585 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 2 degree Blue
DTXC9586 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 2 degree Blue
DTXC9587 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 3 degree Purple
DTXC9588 Suspension plate rear Aluminum 3 degree Blue

I wonder how many of the other parts don't exist.

I am still waiting for my CV joints:( hopefully they will arive soon.

Cheers
Dicko.

[evaderstman]

Thanks for the info but i have another question do you know what kind of rechargeble reciever packs will fit and a charger that doesn't cost much but goes with it I am new to rc and was wondering and if possible could you tell me if trinity makes one than fits. thanks

[dicko]

You are better off buying a new radio gear that comes with a rechargeable battery pack and charger, otherwise it will cost you a lot. Or you could ring your local hobby store & ask what they have. There is a variety in battery packs. you can get 4.8 to 6 volt packs and 4 or 5 cell packs. You will need a 4 cell pack to fit in the Evader and preferably a 6volt pack. If you are only putting rechargeables in the car you might be ok buying seperately but if you have the stock radio gear you might end up upgrading that in the end anyway. There are a lot of options.

Sorry I can't help much more.
Dicko.

[rush freak]

i love the evader

i have 2 nitro evader st
1 electric evader st
and in a few weeks i will have the nitro buggy

the evader is the bomb
plus the speed of the nitro is superb

i give duratrax 2 thumbs up for the evader

[BobT]

Originally posted by evaderstman
Thanks for the info but i have another question do you know what kind of rechargeble reciever packs will fit and a charger that doesn't cost much but goes with it I am new to rc and was wondering and if possible could you tell me if trinity makes one than fits. thanks

Standard 5-cell rechargable receiver packs will fit. You can get a wall-wart charger style charger for $15 to $20. But if you will upgrade to rechargable glow igniter and starter box eventually you may want a better charger.

The Piranha Digital at $50 will charge everything you need glow igniter, receiver pack starter box 6-cell and even your transmitter.

Oh and your servos will work better with NiMH or NiCad receiver pack due to the extra amperage they deliver.:cool:

[hondaguy812]

I bought a nitro evader st about 3 months ago. When I first got it, it ran great for the first quart of gas. Then after that everything went bad... the engine would not start so I brought it to my local hobby show and they couldnt figure it out so I thought it was maybe a lemon so I sen it back and got a another one and now that one is toast I cant figure out whats wrong. I always tuned it right and it never got above 250. So now im sending the second one back. Some advice the ENGINE SUCKS in my opinion. But the rest of the car is awsome.

[raptorridr660r]

I don't know what you are doing, but my engine is awsome! The thing always starts, always makes great power and runs cool, 250 max and pulls wheelies on pavment easily. What glow plug and fuel are you using? I have over 1 gallon in mine and still no engine issues. Sorry to hear about your problems.

[guver]

I just got one and it rips. Does wheelies too , but it runs hot I think even at the breakin setting. Very pleased with it overall.

Hey what kinda duratrax starter box will work with the evst and odst?

[dicko]

So far, when mine has been running it has run fine. I have had it sitting around a fair bit with broken parts. But the engine has run ok. I started up the engine on sunday after almost 2 months on the shelf, it fired almost straight away (3rd or 4th pull after it was primed). Now that I've said that it will probably fail:rolleyes: .

Treat it right & it should run ok. I noticed that my mixture needle needed to be a full turn further out than what they recomend to run rich enough. The recommended needle setting was far too lean for my engine. That would have killed it. Remember, what they recomend is just that, a recomendation, every engine is different. Settings will vary on environment, fuel and the glo plug that you use. Following the instructions exactly won't always be the best thing for the engine.

[guver]

That's what I noticed too it is 3 turns not 2.

any ideas on starter boxes that will work on evst and odst?

[dicko]

No, i don't use starter boxes. Most starter boxes are suitable for most cars as long as you have the engine lowered so that the fly wheel goes through the slot in the chassis (new engine mount). The pull start has to be removed and a back plate installed to do this aswell. If you have done all that any starter box should work as long as it fits under the truck, which shouldn't be a problem.

[guver]

too bad about broken parts.

I was hoping to leave the pull start on too.
:(

I really like the bft mgt start setup from assc. or thundertiger

[dicko]

haven't seen those yet.

my parts are stuck on the docks in Perth. they have a truckdriver blockade around the docks and no containers are leaving. I still have to wait for my parts. next time I will go mailorder. unions aren't always good.

I hope I get them before xmas.