Tamiya TL01B (off-road) Forum [Archive]

mat250

07-15-2003, 09:23 AM

Good point tamiyadude, out of the box the champ or the king isn't going to blow anyone's mind but if you add bearings, mod motor and an esc you can go pretty fast. The biggest problem I have seen so far is the chassis bottoming out and scraping the ground. I added some taller shock mounts and 3 1/2" shocks to fix that problem. I love mine, when I got it I had every intention to make it in to a 4wd truck. Now that I'm done (aside from a new lid) it is my favorite R/C to bash around with. The tlo1b with the right setup can tear up a dirt track.

mat250

07-15-2003, 09:26 AM

here's another

Mr.sorryman

07-16-2003, 10:42 AM

Undercover,new old speedy gonn. So basically it isn't fast until you give it a good motor and xxx-4 rims on it?hehehehe.

Mr.sorryman

07-16-2003, 10:54 AM

Thank you for the help.

Doomed

07-19-2003, 01:48 PM

Originally posted by Aluma
hey doomed, hows that thing handle on a real offroad track?
How is it compared to say a XXX-4? assuming you have oil shocks and the same motor/tires.

I've been thinkin of getting an offroad electric to race with and the baja seems rather inexpensive.

Wow I didn't think this thread would go anywhere so I kind of forgot about it.

Aluma-

If the drivers have the same abilities and it's a hopped up King the XXX-4 would still kill the King. But with a so-so driver on the XXX-4 and a King driver with "skills" It would be a great race. I say do it, it would be fun!

As far as speed, with my Novak SS setup it will leave my stock Delphi which is said to do about 32mph.

I love the car!

Doomed

07-19-2003, 02:07 PM

This as been posted in the TLO1 forum also but here is the Novak SS System.

microrcdude

07-22-2003, 01:49 PM

Isn't it time for tamiya to make some compitition off road Buggys??

tamiyadude

07-22-2003, 02:02 PM

They already have a tricked out 2wd buggy, but it's hella expensive... think they are also getting ready to release the Neo Shot which is a TA04 based 4wd buggy.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scaleoffroadbuggies/images/49190/header.jpg

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/show0305/photo/an_rc1_3.jpg

minijosh

07-22-2003, 05:00 PM

i want a neo shot!!!!!

Doomed

07-24-2003, 04:22 PM

I will take a Neo Shot that has more ground clerance and shock travel then my Baja King, and maybe lighter. But has to be as tuff. And as many hop-ups!

mjohnston39

07-25-2003, 06:50 PM

The Neo shot is based on the TA04 so there will probably a large number of hop-ups for it, maybe even a TRF version? It's only draw back is that it is belt driven, might not be as durable as a buggy with a shaft.

Mike.

PS: Here are some additional photos of the buggy
http://www.overrc.com/news/news2003/shs2003/shs03119.jpeg
http://www.overrc.com/news/news2003/shs2003/shs03355.jpeg
http://www.overrc.com/news/news2003/shs2003/shs03368.jpeg
http://www.overrc.com/news/news2003/shs2003/shs03369.jpeg
http://www.tamiya.co.th/new_products/image/shizuoka_03/hobby105.jpg

Doomed

07-26-2003, 11:43 AM

Good pics,

and I like the tub frame, help keep the mud out. My King get all sorts of things stuck in it after a few dirty runs.

mjohnston39

07-26-2003, 02:23 PM

and I like the tub frame

So do I, hopefully there will be an undercowl as well.

Mike.

Aluma

07-26-2003, 02:25 PM

ummmm is it me or does it kinda look like a beefy XXX-4?

Doomed

07-26-2003, 04:14 PM

Yes, it does look like a XXX-4, IMO if thats want it takes Tamiya to get competive and get more people into 4wd Buggys, copy the heck out of them! :D

slotracer

07-29-2003, 09:03 PM

when will the neo shot be available in online stores???

Midnight2Night

08-04-2003, 10:38 AM

Nobody knows....I am selling my stunt bike to get a baja king...wooohooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Doomed

08-04-2003, 05:13 PM

Long live the King.

I did some checking with my LHS and they said no word yet on the Neo Shot. Thats about right. It will come.

RacerRob

08-05-2003, 01:24 PM

I just got off the phone with Tamiya and they said Spetember. Got mine on order already.

Doomed

08-05-2003, 05:17 PM

Tamiya just told me they will not be available till the end of the year, maybe early next year!

Racer Rob

08-05-2003, 08:32 PM

Well I am a dealer, and thats what they told me.

mjohnston39

08-05-2003, 09:44 PM

The "offical" release date is set for the 26th of Aug IIRC, so early September seems reasonable...

Mike.

Racer Rob

08-05-2003, 10:22 PM

All I know is I can't wait to kick some Losi butt with it! :D

YucA

08-06-2003, 12:37 AM

would anyone here know what parts i need to convert my TL01 to a TL01B buggy?

mat250

08-06-2003, 01:12 AM

YucA: your question has come up befor and the easiest thing to do would be to buy a baja champ. The parts will end up costing almost as much. Plus you would have two rides or spare parts.:)

Racer Rob

08-06-2003, 08:08 AM

Or just keep your TL01 a touring car and add a buggy to your fleet. The Neo Shot is going to be sweet if you want to wait for it, if not, the TL-01 based buggys are fun for playing around with.

YucA

08-06-2003, 09:32 AM

thanks for the info. ill look into a baja. :D

Doomed

08-06-2003, 09:55 AM

Originally posted by Racer Rob
All I know is I can't wait to kick some Losi butt with it! :D

Yes! :cool:

Racer Rob

08-07-2003, 08:30 AM

Found a price estamate on it. A shop in japan has it listed for 19,800 yen, which is just over $160 USD. They are saying Available Aug. 28th.

KRACEE-RC

08-19-2003, 09:41 PM

Okay, I got the RC bug.

I bought a Baja King and realized pretty quickly that there were some areas that I could change early and be happier for it.

Mods:
Full bearing kit
Novak Rooster ESC
Mini CVAs at 70mm using springs from stock Baja King friction dampers
HPI Super Nitro wheels
ProLine Dirt Dawgs f/r
Manta Ray Ball Diff f/r
Trinity Son of Monster Pro motor
21t pinion
TL-01 body mounts
Atomik F150 body

I had made a couple of mistakes putting it together but I beleive that I fixed them. First, I installed the Ball Diffs with out tightening them enough. The instructions included with the Diffs are very sketchy and gave no idea of how "tight". I know that this subjective but Tamiya could have given a little more insight or at least indicated detailed instructions on their web-site. So, the truck's first drive was yesterday without a body and it was fast at first but got real slow real fast.

The loose ball diffs got even looser and soon the motor was freewheeling. So, if you haven't installed these before, know that you need to tighten the diffs more than you think and you may want to do what I did and put a little Loc Tite Blue on the threads. Saves doing what I did which is to tear the chassis almost completely apart to access both diffs. Didn't take too long thankfully.

The other "mistake" was to bury the receiver deep in the body underneath the ESC. I was following my best instinct which was to keep it low in the body so I taped it down and installed the ESC over it. I then read the Novak instructions again and saw that they recommend the receiver be as far away from the ESC as possible. So, I dug them out and mounted the rec. on top of the chassis between the ESC and the steering servo.

That's when I found out that nearly everyone sticks the receiver under the ESC. Next time...

Anyway, doesn't look much like a Baja King. Comments?

KRACEE-RC

08-19-2003, 09:44 PM

KRACEE-RC

08-19-2003, 09:53 PM

Last one. Since these photos, I've raised the body as the front tires were rubbing on the body on extreme right/left turns.

mjohnston39

08-20-2003, 03:18 AM

Looks great. How is the gearing with those larger tires and the the 21T pinion?

Mike.

KRACEE-RC

08-20-2003, 08:20 AM

Thanks Mike,

It hasn't had any extended driving yet; only one run on a NiMH in a paved parking lot.

The initial acceleration is okay; I don’t push it hard i.e. full throttle immediately. Around 15 -20ft it seems to pick up speed much faster and I can hear the motor’s rpm pick up much quicker. This is my first real RC so I don’t have much to compare to but it appears to have good top-end.

I initially had the shock lowers mounted in the hole closest to the chassis but this was a little tall for the parking lot and, as it is faster than my “Shack” RC, I rolled it a couple of times on hard corners. I lowered it as you see in the pictures and noticed that the right tire was rubbing on the fender on hard right hand turns. I believed that it was due to the larger diameter and width tires and rims that I am running so I raised the body to stop this. I noticed after that the cause was that the battery leads were pushing the fender out from the inside. I am going to look for a different path for the leads as I want to keep the body lower on the chassis.

The motor that I have is good for now but I am thinking of something more powerful to use as an option (when my friend with his EMaxx wants to show off). Any one have a recommendation?

Sven

Doomed

08-20-2003, 01:59 PM

KRACEE-RC-

Looks good! You should install a Tamiya Carbon Prop Shaft, my car seemed to react better even with the 540 in it. And it is holding up to my Novak SS system perfectly.

As far as motor it depends on how much you want to spend?

KRACEE-RC

08-20-2003, 04:20 PM

Thanks, for the carbon shaft tip. Did you get the Tamiya unit or get a kite rod as some have suggested?

I noticed on your previous posts that you have a Novak brushless and I guess that's the ultimate right now. I didn't think that the King had the stuff to hold up to the power of the SS so it's good to hear that it does!

Re: money to spend. I'd buy the SS but I just spent the bucks on the Novak Rooster and Trinity 27t motor. My ESC will support a motor down to 15 turns and I don't mind swapping motors for surface conditions etc. I guess that right now I'd consider up to $100.00.

BTW, what size pinion are you running with the SS?

Thanks

KRACEE-RC

08-20-2003, 04:39 PM

Second time driving today. Took it back to the same paved lot. Only rolled it once today. Ran it through two batteries this time and acceleration was much more linear though not blinding. I have no idea what the top speed is but it seems good. Now that I’m getting the feel for the truck, I can turn it much harder and tighter as well.

I took it through some rough grass/weeds alongside the parking lot and jumped it off the curb back to the parking lot and it took it no problem. Next time out it’ll be an off road trip as I want to see how the suspension takes it and how the tires hook up.

Doomed

08-20-2003, 06:00 PM

Yup, I am running the Tamiya unit, and it holds up very well to the brushless power. I'm guessing I have put 40 packs throught it with nothing breaking, on and off road. I am running the stock pinion on it, I have found no need to change it because it has incredible power everywhere in the "rev range". Very fast.

KRACEE-RC

08-21-2003, 04:49 PM

Hey Doomed, that SS sounds amazing. Hmmm....

Drove around the back yard just now. My battery didn't last as long as normal and I noticed that the motor was extremely hot. My guess is that the 21t pinion along with the Trinity Pro Stock motor is not the hot setup for lawns. I didn't try a second pack as the motor was way too warm.

I was at some LHS's today and no one recommended a hotter motor saying instead that there would be too much heat to deal with in the enclosed motor area on the Tl-01. Forgot to check on the carbon shaft.

Before next outing I'll reinstall the 19t and maybe find some loose dirt instead.

I did jump off some short steps in the back yard and BK took it well except for the rear under-pan bottoming out. I will be changing the valving on the rear shocks from normal to slow as it's bouncing. Front is good with normal valving.

KRACEE-RC

08-22-2003, 07:12 PM

I bought a Koyosho Atomic Force (17T and cheap). That's more like it. Much more power and braking too though I have no idea why the brake would be better.

First battery pack I used in a parking lot. Much better speed (though still not enough. SS? Sigh...) and way more fun. Battery went on and on and on. It got to the point where it slowed down but wouldn't die.

Second pack, in a base ball diamond with loose pea-gravel. Whoa. Lots of amazing drifts and power slides. Way fun! This pack is my better one (NiMH 2400) yet it died real quick, maybe 5 mins at the most though I was having so much fun it seemed even that it died even faster.

I thought that maybe constant full throttle plus extra strain of the gravel? Motor wasn't hot at all though.

Whatever. I'm having fun. Anyone else out there? I might have to go to TL-01 forum.

Doomed

08-23-2003, 03:10 PM

Not a lot of people have a TLO1B buggy so not many replys. The guys over at TLO1 forum have a lot of good info that applys to your car, but their not much into dirt! :D

But, sounds like your having fun and thats what its all about. So get your self a Novak brushless and post some pics of it flying through the air!
Dana

hanafuda

08-25-2003, 03:42 AM

I bought my first R/C - a Baha King back in April and I am hooked! I haven't really gone to town upgrading it yet, but it does have a full Tamiya bearing kit, Tamiya sport tuned motor, and some strenghthened rear drive sockets (don't know why - they didn't have the part I wanted so I got them instead!), and a 2400 battery pack.

Anyway, I took it to the off road circuit in Shizuoka at the weekend and got quite a few laps out of it. The course is relatively small but has two jumps quite close to each other and then what I can only describe as a hump on the opposite side of the track. I couldn't really find a good way of navigating the hump other than slowing right down for it, but after sending the King tail over nose several times on the jumps I got pretty good at them.

Once the pack run out the motor was much hotter than a usual run where I take it down by the river - as my finger discovered when accidentally touching it!

Apart from that it was great fun. As this is my first R/C car I can really say whether it performed amazingly well or not, but it seemed pretty happy and once I figured how to land the jumps on four wheels things were pretty smooth.

Well, that probably doesn't make particularly interesting reading but if anyone has any questions about the Shizuoka circuit let me know.

hanafuda

08-25-2003, 04:48 AM

The only issue I have had so far with the Baha King is junk (mainly very small stones) getting in the tiny space between the battery and chassis. Whenever this happens it makes it very difficult to remove the battery, as it gets stuck in the chassis. Brute force is then the only resolution, and the battery pack itself ends up getting pretty chewed.

Anyone have a resolution to this or do most users just tape it up as well as possible?

Aluma

08-25-2003, 12:30 PM

geez...you think its wise to put a brushless into a TL01? The gears would dissintegrate with so much force!...unless you keep it on the stock racing setup.

Doomed

08-25-2003, 12:39 PM

Have you seen the gears inside the Baja King kit? They are massive and very strong. Over kill. I'm sure its the same on most of the TLO1 kits. And the fact that the Novak is not as powerful as the other brushless units out there.

hanafuda-

sounded like fun at the Shizuoka track!

hanafuda

08-25-2003, 08:44 PM

Excuse my ignorance but what is a brushless? Are you referring to the Tamiya sport tuned motor? If so I have had that in there for about 4 or 5 runs now and it seems OK. I popped the chassis apart before taking it to Shizuoka and the gears looked OK so I just put some more grease on them.

Any suggestions would be welcome as I don't really know what I am doing with the hop up parts - just playing it by ear. The manual listed that motor in the list of hop up options though.

Also, I would be interested to hear any recommendations about what I should upgrade next. I want to keep it pure Tamiya, so only want Tamiya parts. I think I will go for a hollow drive shaft next and a 3300 battery. Any other recommendations?

Doomed - yeah, the Shizuoka circuit worked out really well considering it was our first time there. The weather was really good and the atmosphere at the circuit good too. Most users were on the road circuit - didn't seem to be much off-road interest.

They seem to have a 'Beginners Day' once a month so hopefully we can make it in September too. We got some photos so I might post them up here when they are ready.

KRACEE-RC

08-26-2003, 08:19 AM

I have to agree with Doomed. After having my new 17 turn motor overhauled after messing it up with small gravel and the ever present need for more power, I will go with a brushless system next time; very likely the Novak. I plan to get into Touring car racing and can use the brushed motors for this and use the SS in the TL01B.

I am finding out the hard way that there are plenty of places on the TL01B chassis for dirt, stones etc to get in and that the less maintenance issues, the better. Not to mention that more power equals more heat and the TL01B doesn’t have a good design for venting or cooling the motor. Right now I assume that the Novak SS runs cooler than a similar brushed system especially if it is said to be equal to a 10 turn motor.

I’ve had my motor shut down twice from being plugged with debris. I’ve been thinking about a way to shield the under side of the chassis better. So far my idea is to shape a thin piece of plastic, polystyrene, thermo-plast etc. to attach to the bottom of the chassis to stop dirt, etc. from being spun up from the tires and getting into all the holes and openings in the car and motor. Anyone have any ideas here? I’ve also been having the problem of removing jammed battery packs and would like to minimize this.

KRACEE-RC

08-26-2003, 09:04 PM

So, I toasted my Trinity motor as well. Brought about by the pea-gravel from the baseball diamond at the elementary school. The motor runs but sputters and heats up to extraordinary levels. I noticed that I had small rocks embedded in various parts of the chassis:

In the suspension arm pivot areas, deep in the chassis, in the battery area; even in the reccess behind the main drive shaft. Those ones actually scored the shaft as it turned and right now I glad I hadn't found a carbon shaft replacement as the stones would likely have ruined it.

I have to find a place to run the car where it is dry dirt only and no gravel (now this makes sense. I like to learn the hard way) or figure a way to block the crap from entering the chassis, motor etc.

I am thinking that I've got to get a monster truck for the nasty dirt and use the BK for dry, fast stuff like jumping etc.

Has anyone figured a way to run the TL01B in the real sick dirt without frying everything or is it a fair weather truck/buggy?

KRACEE-RC

08-26-2003, 09:13 PM

Originally posted by hanafuda
Excuse my ignorance but what is a brushless? Are you referring to the Tamiya sport tuned motor? If so I have had that in there for about 4 or 5 runs now and it seems OK. I popped the chassis apart before taking it to Shizuoka and the gears looked OK so I just put some more grease on them.

Any suggestions would be welcome as I don't really know what I am doing with the hop up parts - just playing it by ear. The manual listed that motor in the list of hop up options though.

Also, I would be interested to hear any recommendations about what I should upgrade next. I want to keep it pure Tamiya, so only want Tamiya parts. I think I will go for a hollow drive shaft next and a 3300 battery. Any other recommendations?

Hanafuda, Doomed has done some serious upgrades on his BK and I gotta admit, they make sense so check out his posts.

I think that the most important upgrades have already been done by you except for the shocks. The stock "pogos" are really stunned. You would notice a huge difference landing massive jumps with an upgraded set. I got the Tamiya CVAs and used the stock springs from the kit instead of the CVA springs as they are much stiffer.

Other than that, I noticed a big improvement in top speed with larger tires. I put on HPI 2.2 Nitro wheels front and rear with Proline dirt dawgs which have a bigger diameter and as such, I get an extra few kms in top-end.

hanafuda

08-27-2003, 01:19 AM

Thanks for the feedback.

My next steps then are to buy:

3300 battery pack and charger
Hollow carbon drive shaft
Manta Ray ball diff front and rear
Tamiya CVA shocks

What about my motor? I don't want to swap the Sport Tuned 540 just yet as it is pretty new, but when I do I want to put another Tamiya motor in there. Can someone recommend one that is better than the Sport Tuned for the King please?

hanafuda

08-27-2003, 01:26 AM

Going back to those CVA shocks, would that be the following part?

ITEM 50519 (SP519)
C.V.A. Mini Shock II

I assume I need two kits if I want to cover all 4 wheels right?

KRACEE-RC

08-27-2003, 06:52 AM

Originally posted by hanafuda
Thanks for the feedback.

My next steps then are to buy:

3300 battery pack and charger
Hollow carbon drive shaft
Manta Ray ball diff front and rear
Tamiya CVA shocks

What about my motor? I don't want to swap the Sport Tuned 540 just yet as it is pretty new, but when I do I want to put another Tamiya motor in there. Can someone recommend one that is better than the Sport Tuned for the King please?

Re: Manta Ray Ball Diffs, pay close attention to how "tight" you adjust them. I put them in my BK with what I thought was the right ammount of adjustment and found out they were too loose. This means taking the car almost completely apart to be able to separate the chassis halves to get at the front and rear diffs. If they're not adjusted right, you'll know as the car won't brake well and will slip under acceleration.

For me, getting it tight enough meant tightening the nut so that there seemed to be a lot of drag on the bearings when spinning the diff by hand (while it is in your hand, not installed in the chassis); it should almost feel rough and tight as if there is too much. As I said, this worked for me and I had advice from my LHS.

I didn't bother with the stock motor; I put in a Trinity Monster Pro and realistically, it is good for off-road messing around but I found the real fun came from running a 17 turn motor. Lots more power and speed and I don't miss the monster except that it's been handy while I over haul the 17T motor.

KRACEE-RC

08-27-2003, 06:55 AM

Originally posted by hanafuda
Going back to those CVA shocks, would that be the following part?

ITEM 50519 (SP519)
C.V.A. Mini Shock II

I assume I need two kits if I want to cover all 4 wheels right?

Those are the ones that I used and you do need 2 kits.

I used the springs from the Baja King kit as I feel that the springs with the CVA are too soft. With the CVAs, you can choose from two ride heights any time you want. There are two mounting holes on each of the lower suspension arms. I use the furthest holes from the chassis for speed work and the closer holes for rough stuff. Most of the time, the furthest holes work best for me.

Doomed

08-27-2003, 10:42 AM

Hey guys,

hanafuda- A brushless motor doesn't have brushes inside the motor like everything else out there. Besides the incredible power that these systems have they are also easier to maintain than a "brushed" motor. You don't have to do things like replace the brushes or "true/cut" the comms. And they tend to be more efficient than "brushed" also. Here's a link to mine...

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/MOTOR/motor.htm

it's the Novak Super Sport Burshless Motor System SS5800.

There is a lot of info on these boards like in the Brushless forum, if you need more info or a better explanation, I'm no expert! Looks like your well on your way to a very nice King!

KRACEE-RC

08-27-2003, 11:47 AM

Actually, the Novak SS has another advantage as well. It looks like it is sealed i.e. no cooling vents so there is less opportunity for dirt, rocks etc to get in. Unlike my Monster Pro which has been fried from too much debris etc. I just got a new armature to put in as the old one is black from over heating.

SARacer

08-27-2003, 05:38 PM

Before I actually buy the parts I want to know if anybody here has tried to put the baja champ suspension arms on a either a Tamiya MO3 or an FFO2 chassis. I was wondering what it would look like so if you have tried it before, post some pictures...

thanks

KRACEE-RC

08-27-2003, 06:09 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hanafuda
[B]Thanks for the feedback.

My next steps then are to buy:

3300 battery pack and charger
Hollow carbon drive shaft
Manta Ray ball diff front and rear
Tamiya CVA shocks

Hey hanafuda, you inspired me to buy a 3300 pack which I did today. I already have a Piranha Digital Peak charger which I am happy with.

I'll let you know how the 3300 works for me.

Doomed, what pack do you use? Is the Novak SS much more efficient as we've heard?

Thanks

Doomed

08-27-2003, 07:01 PM

I am using a 3000 matched pack and I get about 10-12mins of full power and then it lets off to crawling at about 15 min.

hanafuda

08-28-2003, 01:10 AM

Originally posted by KRACEE-RC
Re: Manta Ray Ball Diffs, pay close attention to how "tight" you adjust them. I put them in my BK with what I thought was the right ammount of adjustment and found out they were too loose. This means taking the car almost completely apart to be able to separate the chassis halves to get at the front and rear diffs. If they're not adjusted right, you'll know as the car won't brake well and will slip under acceleration.

Thanks for the tip. I will watch out for that. Will probably be a few more weeks until I buy the kit as I have sworn so spend no more money on myself for a month since I bought a Wild Dagger!

What improvements did you notice with the Manta Ray Ball Diffs over the stock kit?

hanafuda

08-28-2003, 01:13 AM

Originally posted by KRACEE-RC
Actually, the Novak SS has another advantage as well. It looks like it is sealed i.e. no cooling vents so there is less opportunity for dirt, rocks etc to get in. Unlike my Monster Pro which has been fried from too much debris etc. I just got a new armature to put in as the old one is black from over heating.

So does the Novak SS also suffer from the heat due to it being enclosed?

hanafuda

08-28-2003, 01:19 AM

Originally posted by KRACEE-RC
Hey hanafuda, you inspired me to buy a 3300 pack which I did today. I already have a Piranha Digital Peak charger which I am happy with.

I'll let you know how the 3300 works for me.

Thanks KRACEE-RC and the rest of you here. This is an excellent resource.

I currently have a Tamiya 2400 pack and that has been doing pretty well for me. I ran it pretty flat out at Shizuoka on the course but I guess I did quite a lot of pausing too as the arial holder kept coming off after rolling the car several times.

Under more relaxed conditions with a wider range of speeds I get over 30 minutes with that pack. I was really impressed the first time I used it.

Look forward to hearing how the 3300 works out.

KRACEE-RC

08-28-2003, 07:56 AM

Originally posted by hanafuda
Thanks for the tip. I will watch out for that. Will probably be a few more weeks until I buy the kit as I have sworn so spend no more money on myself for a month since I bought a Wild Dagger!

What improvements did you notice with the Manta Ray Ball Diffs over the stock kit?

Good question but the only answer that I have is that I researched the hop-up options for the BK and one that was mentioned on this site as well as many others was the ball diffs. It also made sense from what I know about full-sized cars so I bought them as I was building the car. I put them in right away to save the trouble of tearing it apart later to install them. As it was, I had to take the car apart anyway to tighten them properly. So, the answer is: I haven't used the orgional diffs at all. Sorry.

Doomed

08-28-2003, 09:26 AM

Originally posted by hanafuda
So does the Novak SS also suffer from the heat due to it being enclosed?

No it dosen't, I can touch it after a 15min run. Here is a list of hop-ups I have done to my King...

Full Bearings
Duratrax DTXC3500
Tuned Spring Set
Futaba MC330CR ESC
TL01 Speed Tuned Gear Set
TA03 Ball Diff Set
TL01 Carbon Prop Shaft
TL01 SS Suspension Shafts
4WD Front One-way Diff
Pro-Line Road Hawgs
Carbon Quick Release
Novak SS Brushless System
Aluminum Front Hub Carriers
Aluminum Knuckes
Novak SS5800

I think thats it, as far as the difference going from gear to ball diff, I am in the same boat as KRACEE-RC. I never used the stock gear diff.

KRACEE-RC

08-30-2003, 10:51 AM

Re: 3300 NiMH pack. Excellent. Much longer run time at full power. When it does drop off, it is pretty quick so there isn't a long wait time to drain off the rest of the charge.

I haven't noticed much difference in power or speed over my 2200 NiMH but there is some.

I've only driving it on pavement lately. Really nervous about dirt, rocks etc. getting into the motor and damaging it. This has cost me one already with another one that came close not to mention almost melting through my motor leads.

I either have to find a way to deflect debris away from the motor and battery or use the BK on pavement then buy a tub-style chassis buggy or truck.

RcVet

09-01-2003, 02:09 PM

Ok, what's up with that.

What is the difference between the two. They are so similar, except for the extra $10US the King carries.

I'm looking to get me one to start, but which one?

Also, how much more speed can you get with a complete ball bearing pkg and say a mid to high-end motor swap. Been out of the RC world for a while (12 years), so I'm still catching up. Look's she's do 17-20 mph stock. I like the 25-30+ mph range myself.

RcVet:cool:

KRACEE-RC

09-01-2003, 11:27 PM

Re: Baja King vs. Champ.

I bought the King because I wasn't aware of the Champ at the time. From what I've heard, the only difference is the body. Looking at the photo of the Champ chasis on Tamiya's site, it looks the same as my King.

There's a good review on this site: http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/bajaking.asp

I installed full bearings at the start so I didn't compare. If you are going to run a low-turn motor, the stock bushings are going to be a problem ie power robbing friction from the higher rpms of the stronger motor. The number one upgrade is a bearing kit and this would hold true for any vehicle.

The article that is from the link above says that they radared a King w/Acer bearings installed and compared to a Champ w/stock bushings. King radar'd at 20.2 mph vs. Champ at 17.5.

After the bearings, I'd upgrade the shocks and then add an ESC. The ESC would be a major boost to throttle control but the handling is vastly improved with oil-damped shocks.

I haven't measured my King with bearings and a 17 turn motor and a 21 tooth pinon but it looks like it is aroung 30 mph. But this is completely subjective. I'll probably try to pace it with me driving it along side of a friend's moving car and find out.

Doomed

09-01-2003, 11:43 PM

Originally posted by KRACEE-RC

I'll probably try to pace it with me driving it along side of a friend's moving car and find out.

Make sure you get some video of that!

RcVet

09-02-2003, 05:25 PM

I'll probably try to pace it with me driving it along side of a friend's moving car and find out.

Beleive me. Don't do this on a narrow street. :( It's harder then you think, especially @ 30 - 35 MPH. Make sure your steering is adjusted properly. And ya, get some video. hehe

RcVet.:cool:

Racer Rob

09-03-2003, 12:04 PM

The best way is to find someone with the pickup truck, sit on the tailgate, and follow it with your r/c, not on a busy road of course. Then no chance of running it over.

KRACEE-RC

09-03-2003, 03:47 PM

Thanks for the tips! I had thought about running the BK ahead of the car but, behind makes the most sense. I probably won't be able to do this until next weekend but I will do it.

hanafuda

09-08-2003, 08:57 PM

Hello people.

Well, I finally got my hand on one pair (they didn't have any more stock) of C.V.A. Mini Shock IIs so I installed them on the front until I can get a pair for the rear too. I set them at 61mm with the stock springs from the car kit (black) but the car seems to hang slightly lower than before. Did anyone else set the dampers longer than 61mm?

As for the battery, I ran my King with the basic 1400 pack that came with the kit at the weekend instead of my 2400 and it seemed to be livelier with the 1400. It could just have been my imagination but I think it is worth considering the extra weight of the stronger battery packs is probably going to affect performance. Does anyone have any figures for this?

Tjappie

09-10-2003, 01:18 PM

Hey guys, i gonna convert my tl-01 touring car in to a monstertruck( it started a stadium truck:) ), and i need the part number of the front suspension arm from a tl-01B, or the tree that hold them.
I'm gonna put them in the rear too so the track is the same front and rear and toe is adjustable. And i need the part number for the dogbones or universals.

i got another Tamiya and i love how you can change parts on them. Reminds me of my old Hotwheels Connectables:cool:

Doomed

09-11-2003, 10:45 AM

Go to page 8 in the "TLO1 Racing Forum v2.0". I posted scans of the trees you need from my King manual.

Here's the link...

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=125671&perpage=25&pagenumber=8

Doomed

09-18-2003, 01:29 PM

I heard again that the Neo Shot won't be out till next year, maybe feb. That's what Tamiya told me last month. Guess that dude was right.

foowee.

mjohnston39

09-18-2003, 03:17 PM

I heard again that the Neo Shot won't be out till next year, maybe feb

Too bad, wonder what the problem is?

Mike.

Doomed

09-19-2003, 09:38 AM

Hopefuly they are redesigning the body! I can wait for that.

sjc73

10-06-2003, 08:35 AM

Hello People! Some help would be greatly appreciated.

Currently, I am in the middle of upgrading my two tl-01's into offroad beasts (I hope). But I have struck a few hurdles...

1. Using Wild Willy 2 rims and tyres, will the standard motor handle the wheel diameter increase?

2. If not, could I get away with changing only the pinion gear on the motor rather than gear changes (baja)?

3. I can source some really cheap high torgue 12v motors (high as in over the standard mabuchi's), would fitting one of those be the best option?...I would rather trash several of these cheapies than buying two expensive motors. Replacing them is half the fun of RC.

If anyone else can think of other hurdles that I am going to have to jump, please feel free to bud-in.

Cheers,
Steve.

hanafuda

10-07-2003, 12:35 AM

A while back I bought a Sport Tuned 540 for my Baha King and kept the original 19T Pinion Set that came with the stock kit (I didn't know any better at the time). I have since put about 7 or 8 full battery charges through that set up, and now the King is making rather a lot of noise when put power through the motor. It sounds as if some of the gears at the rear are generating the noise.

Now that I have realised my mistake I have put the stock 540 back in until I can order the 23T pinion gear for the Sport Tuned 540. However, I am wondering if I have done some terminal damage, or whether I just need to pop the chassis open and give everything a clean. Any thoughts?

I am going to order a Manta Ray Ball Diff set for the rear, so that may help.

Also, I don't really understand the whole gearing/pinion/motor turn situation. Could someone enlighten me please?

Doomed

10-07-2003, 11:38 AM

Check your gears and make sure they are all meshing correctly. A Sport Tuned 540 should run fine with the 19T.

*Supreme Losi*

10-21-2003, 05:21 PM

I like the buggy tlo1!!!!

hanafuda

10-22-2003, 02:50 AM

Thanks. I checked the rear gearbox which seemed to be the source of the noise and found about three fairly solid bits of dirt or stone wedged in various places. Some of the teeth (main diff gear) had been worn noticably by this. Cleaned everything up and gave it all a new coat of grease and things are better.

On the issue of the pinion - the 23T should give improved top speed but reduce acceleration right? With a Sport Tuned + 23T I will get better top speed than a stock 540 + 23T, right?

Finally, how many turns is a stock 540 and how many turns is a Sport Tuned?

Thanks.

Doomed

10-22-2003, 11:24 AM

There are varing opinions on the number of turns of both the "stock 540" and "Sport Tuned" I like to think the "stock 540" is a 27 turn and the "Sport Tuned" is a 20 turn. I also heard that there are different versions of the "Stock 540" with differing number of turns! :confused:

From how I understand it, yes a Sport Tuned + 23T will typically have a higher top speed. Hope that helps!

Dana

hanafuda

10-30-2003, 08:52 AM

I have just set up Tamiya low friction aluminium dampers front and rear on my King. Does anyone have any recommendations in regard to their setup? At the moment they are all 62mm with damper oil that comes with the Mini Shock II pack.

hanafuda

11-03-2003, 01:12 AM

Can anyone recommend a pinion gear to run on the Baha King with a Tamiya Super Stock Type T motor? I currently have a 19T and 23T available, and am looking more for a balance between acceleration and top speed, rather than one extreme.

I currently run it with a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor and 23T. It seems to have nice mid range power and acceleration, but feels like it doesn't have much high end power.

I don't have the motor yet, but it should arrive next week.

JandJ2626

11-24-2003, 10:29 AM

Hey Doomed,
What hardware did you use to mount up the new shocks.
I got the 3500's and don't have the hardware to mount them up properly.
It might save me some time from trial and error.
Thanks!

Doomed

11-24-2003, 12:28 PM

I used the stock screws and the rubber gromets that came with the new shocks on the top mounting points, front and back. I also had some ball mounts that the screw goes through for the bottom mounts. Hope that helps! Worked for me.
D

Wizardman_1

11-29-2003, 09:38 PM

I was just reading around forums and i think you could cut up an old lexan body and use it to prevent dirt and rocks from coming in the chassis. Is it possible to put adjustable links instead of the stock plastic ones. Hanafuda maybe your packs were "livelier" because they were NiCds and your others were NiMH. By the way what battery packs are you using, i have Epic 3000mAh NiMH and got them for only 18 bucks each on tower hobbies :D. Sounds like its a tough car but i just got a Duratrax Evader Bx, maybe i'll sell my Tower Nitro ST-15 and buy a Baja King.

hanafuda

11-30-2003, 02:27 AM

I have a Tamiya 2400 pack and an Atlas (?) pack that came with the kit. Probably just a 1400 pack. I am trying to get some more information on this battery. Anyone have the web details or anything?

As for the Baha King, I really like it. Depends what you want it for, but if you want a tough car that is fun to drive and has a load of possible tune up options then I recommend it.

Wizardman_1

11-30-2003, 04:10 PM

It came with a pack? :confused: all the kits over here dont come with any battery or electronics. Im planning to sell my nitro when i get a two-speed tranny for it and get a baja king. If i do get it, i'll probly put adjustable turnbuckles, better tires, trinity P2K2 motor, lexan skidplates, duratrax bearings, CVA shocks, i'll just use this list when i get it. I was trying to put a pic of my track but it said that it was too big. About the packs i didn't even know tamiya made battery packs.

hanafuda

11-30-2003, 11:49 PM

I meant that I bought a bundle pack that came with the King kit, a Futaba transmitter/receiver/servo/MC230CR ESC pack, and a battery + basic charger.

Yeah, Tamiya make battery packs. In Japan I think they offer the following:

1400
1700
2400
3300

Check out their web site for more details.

Wizardman_1

12-02-2003, 09:09 PM

Has anybody tried this light kit out. I think would be pretty tight if someone but this on their baja king to make it look even more to scale than it already is.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDKR7&P=7
i couldnt find any info on the packs on the website, oh well. can't wait for christmas, loads of parts comin in.

hanafuda

12-03-2003, 12:00 AM

My King is now almost at a level that I am happy with. I just completed the upgrade of full carbon shafts and a Tamiya Super Stock Type T motor + 21T pinion and it flies! I had a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor in there before and the difference is very impressive. I probably got between 15-20 minutes on the 2400 pack and was giving it a good run. I will post some photos tonight.

One thing about the Super Stock Type T though - it won't run in reverse and I suspect it is faulty. Has anyone seen this before? Runs like a dream in forwards though.

I bought the metal pin wheel adapters to replace the plastic stock ones that came with the kit (black hexaganol wheel mounts) and was wondering what the benefit of putting the metal versions on is. They are quite a bit heavier than their plastic versions. Anyone know?

Also, the manual mentions stardish wheels and spike tyres as hop up options. What is different to these over the ones that come stock with the car?

hanafuda

12-03-2003, 07:34 AM

The Baha King.

hanafuda

12-03-2003, 07:38 AM

Front detail.

hanafuda

12-03-2003, 07:41 AM

Chassis detail.

hanafuda

12-03-2003, 07:44 AM

Electronics.

Doomed

12-03-2003, 06:00 PM

Nice looking King, like the yellow! The tire and wheels they talk about are the ones that come with the kit. Don't know why they say its a hop-up? :confused:

Wizardman_1

12-03-2003, 07:17 PM

Nice King! the metal hexes are better because they wont wear out as easy and if you accidentally leave the wheels loose they wont strip. It helps the wheels move a little better. Get rid of those bullet style connectors! you are loosing precious power if you cut the connectors off and hardwire them your electric current will have a better flow. the same goes for your battery except you should use these WS Deans plugs instead of the tamiya plugs
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=7

Wizardman_1

12-03-2003, 07:35 PM

heres the hardwire trick

Wizardman_1

12-03-2003, 07:39 PM

And the deans plug

Wizardman_1

12-07-2003, 12:49 PM

have you tried softening up the tires by rubbing some WD-40 on them and let them sit. Do the tires have any foam inserts in them?

Wizardman_1

12-11-2003, 08:34 PM

is this forum dead

hanafuda

12-12-2003, 02:27 AM

I am following it. Just not much to report of late.

One tale though. I did a complete service on my King, then took it for a spin and fogot to put that small rear gearbox cover back on (on the right hand side of the chassis opposite the motor pinion). Needless to say loads of junk went in there so I have to clean the rear gearbox out once again..

Wizardman_1

12-12-2003, 10:06 PM

for a chassis cover on the bottom, buy a clear body (it doesnt matter what kind) and cut it up into sections and cut little holes in it for zip ties, cut little holes on the chassis and zip tie the lexan and the chassis together to make a pair of skidplates to keep even more dirt out of the chassis.
only 12 more days until Christmas arrives, hopefully it still wont be snowing by then.
when i take stuff off my car i put it in a ziplock bag so i rememeber what i took off, maybe that will help next time.

Wizardman_1

12-22-2003, 12:35 PM

if i get this car wat are the things that i have to look out for

microrcdude

12-22-2003, 02:39 PM

when i take parts of my car, i lay it on a white towel.

Wizardman_1

12-25-2003, 08:11 PM

hanafuda, have you tried making a skidplate for the bottom of the chassis, you could use a 2 liter soda pop and cut it up and attach it the the chassis with zip ties. it would stop all the dirt and debris from getting into unwanted areas.

hanafuda

12-28-2003, 02:10 AM

Yeah, I will give that a go as soon as I work out why the new motor doesn't run in reverse...

re-inferno

12-28-2003, 09:23 AM

Hi!

Perhaps I should introduce my TL01"BL" ;)

Short Story: After some years spent with 1/8th buggys i got interested in brushless motors and got a Losi XXX Kinwald to equip it with
I thought the xxx being a competition racer would be tough enough - WRONG. it had several flaw such as ball diff and very weak suspension.
At that time a buddy of mine already owne a baja champ and I was suprised of the durability of that model.
So, 3 months ago I thought, lets give it a try, bought a Baja champ and some GPM parts + some custom work, and i got this:

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/offroad_angel_5.jpg

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/offroad_angel_6.jpg

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/offroad_angel_4.jpg

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/offroad_angel_7.jpg

Believe it or not, but this thing deals with BL power like nothing else, and handling has greatly improoved since I added lager shocks, custom steering.

For those who want to give a translator a try or just want to see more pics of the buliding process, here's the full story! (http://30486.rapidforum.com/topic=101583591502&startid=1)

Wizardman_1

12-28-2003, 10:01 PM

Nice
Are those fiberglass shock towers? You should try racing it if you have an outlaw class near you just for the fun of it. Im still saving up for one of these things, i might wait for the neo shot though

hanafuda

12-29-2003, 09:37 AM

I wouldn't wait for the Neo Shot if I were you - it was cancelled at the end of November 2003.

Wizardman_1

12-29-2003, 02:15 PM

Man that kinda sucks, i thought the xxx4 would actually have some competition. More reason to save up for the BK, if i get it ill get all the spare parts from the evader :D

re-inferno

12-29-2003, 03:55 PM

yes, these are made of fiberglass.
I just didn't want to go with carbon because I wanted something very durable (since weight is only 2nd priority with bl)
additionally, carbon didn't just match well with the mold of the chassis, too stiff but also to weak when it comes to rollovers. (and there where some serios ones cause i raced that thing on grass with no anti roll bar an way too much ride height :D )
so i just like the fiberglass more (and its cheaper :) )

Wizardman_1

12-29-2003, 04:25 PM

What other stuff did you do to it?

re-inferno

12-29-2003, 05:15 PM

several things

On some areas, I added metrical (M3) screws, stainless steel with hexhead. (the screws, that directly conntect the 2 halves of the chassis)
I believe, that the finer threads allow more flexing of the mold without braeking (don't know exaktly, but it works finde)

Then, a alloy servo mount with washer (much stiffer)
http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Baja_Servohalterung.jpg

I dropped the servo about 3-4mm from original position to gain more articulation for the steering links (they limit suspension travel because of the simplified Steering, they collide with the chassis frame.

BTW, i replaced them with ball links (resulting in more possible articulation making the above necessary)

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Baja_Spur.jpg

Here we have the Lehner 4200 & BK Warrior 99 Controller (Brushless setup, 4200 rpm/volt max. 700W)
http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Warrior_upgrade.jpg
the 4 capacitors are needed in order not to stall the batteries when accelerating hard (which would lead to BEC failure, shutting down the motor)

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/GPM_Motorplatte.jpg

GPM Motorplate, w. Washers You need to fill this with some dust-covering material in order not to get any dirt in the gears from the open screw holes.

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/BEC_Setup.jpg

the reciever is below, controller zip tied at the top of the rc"box"

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Baja_Kardans.jpg

Thunder shot universals - but the plated steel ones hold up pretty well if you don't go into reverse at full speed (have reverse deactivated for proper braking)

cu re-inferno

re-inferno

12-29-2003, 05:16 PM

2nd part, too many pictures

more steering fun:
http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Baja_Radtraeger_vorne.jpg

the dustcovers didn't hold up well, and there's very much axial play for the steering knuckles (in the c-hubs)

so:

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Baja_SL.jpg

get a piece of the tubing, that came with the friction dampers and cut it into pieces of 5mm, slide it on the conical ends of the knuckles (where to kingpins go in) and they will a) eliminate any play forever and b) seal the delrin bushings from dust.
(however, the steering binds a bit... but no problem for a 7,8kg/cm Servo and the IMO the dust proofing counts more in offroad then a zero friction steering)

You'll need the GPM TB01 steering knuckle because the TL01 doesn't fit on the TL01B. (and this makes ball link steering necessary once again, because the stock plastc links are too short.

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/Baja_Heck.jpg

alloy rear-hubs.

I'm not an alloy-fetishist, but i tried to build that thing like an 1/8th (for durability reasons) and so i chose very stiff hubs and the original suspension links absorbing impacts (which will result in both, a durable suspension but still enough flex to prevent parts breaking in major crashs)

As you can see on the pictures in my first post, I added R/L threaded ball links to the suspension (stainless steel, don't like titanium)
They are necissaray because otherwise, you cannot mount the damper stay at 4 poits (which increases chassis durability)

well... almost forgot to mention ball bearings ;)

but the rest of the car is pretty good for a bl-conversion :D

ran through about 50 packs and didn't even need a spare part :)

the project isn't finished yet, but there will only be some minor changes... but the tl01B has a great potential!

BTW: sorry for spelling and grammar errors, I'm from austria
:D

cu re-inferno

re-inferno

12-29-2003, 05:36 PM

one thing, I forgot:

one some areas of the chassis, you can use more screws that tamiya decided to use:

#1 if you look at the area around the front mount of the steering servo, you'll encounter another hole between the top and botton screw that hold the monocoque together.
If you drill a 3mm hole into the chassis-half motorside, than you can use another screw (supporting the top screw that gets very stressed when playing offroad without proper damper stays :D )

#2 look at the covers of the pinion gears, they're held with 2 screws each, but the end just slides on a molded "pin" to center inself. (hower, this pin has a hole... ;) )
-> drill a 3mm hole to mount the covers with 3 screws (don't use fine threaded ones here, Tamiya's 10mm self tapping stockers work fine in this area)
This is very important since the cover supports the bearings much better and results in constant gear mesh in the pinions even under high (bl) load.

cu re-inferno

Doomed

12-29-2003, 11:35 PM

Nice car and some good info thanks!

hanafuda

12-30-2003, 09:33 AM

Baha King in action today.

Wizardman_1

12-30-2003, 01:45 PM

Do the bodies come painted or did you do that yourself, it looks really good!

chuckwagon123

12-30-2003, 02:32 PM

Who knew you can't balance a wheel using screws. Ah well great traction in the wet/icy/snowy ground.

Doomed

12-30-2003, 02:58 PM

chuckwagon123- That is absolutely evil!

Wizardman_1- The body does not come painted, hanafuda just did a good job painting it.

hanafuda

12-30-2003, 09:43 PM

chuckwagon123 - I like the snow tires!

Doomed - thanks for the compliment. That was the first body I ever did so I am pretty pleased with it. Some may say the yellow/silver is pretty boring as that is the colour on the box illustration, but I just liked the combination of the colours so went with that. I am thinking of getting another body and decal set and doing a different colour - maybe the PS-8 Light Green!

Wizardman_1 - the Baha King body takes a long time to cut from the mould as there are a lot of corners etc. The only other body I have cut is the Wild Dagger, which was much simpler.

As for painting, it is just a case of doing a lot of precise masking, then spraying the silver sections first. Once that is done, just remove all masking, mask up the outside surfaces on the car, and spray the yellow. Takes a long time.

For the decals, there are a lot, but I put nearly all of them on.

In general, just be patient and take your time. You should get a good result.

Wizardman_1

12-31-2003, 01:52 PM

What is the difference if you put a one way in the front instead of a regular differential.

re-inferno

12-31-2003, 02:46 PM

wizardman_1: a Baja champ with one Way gets very agil but also extremly hard to drive through rough terrain without proper damper stays. (at least, I coult hardly control it :D )

I'll try again with the modifications...

BTW: now with wing again ;)

http://www.members.aon.at/abanovi1/Forum/offroad_angel_8.jpg

wing stay powered by Team Losi :p

I'll try a center one way soon (as soon as i've figured out, how to do it properly)

shouldn't be that hard to drive.

SteveK

12-31-2003, 11:17 PM

Man, I want one of those HPI Saxo bodies. I think I'll have Mom try and pick one up when she goes to Ireland in January.

Racer Rob

01-28-2004, 12:47 PM

re-inferno- Great looking buggy. Bet it runs as well as it looks.

Wizardman_1

01-31-2004, 01:19 AM

would anyone like to trade one of these for my tower nitro st-15
i have something posted in the wanted forum.

Doomed

02-20-2004, 09:42 PM

I changed my Baja King a bit...

http://www.pbase.com/image/26228717/large.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/image/26228720.jpg

What do you think?

SARacer

02-21-2004, 08:02 PM

that thing looks mean. (it reminds me of a sand scorcher)

what body, tires, and shocks are those?

hanafuda

02-21-2004, 08:45 PM

Looks good. How does it run?

I am interested in those shocks too. How long are they?

I got a Tamiya 3300 battery pack yesterday so will be testing that out in my King today.

Doomed

02-22-2004, 07:36 PM

Thanks guys!

The shocks are "DTXC3500 Competition Shock Front" 3in.

The body is a proline (I think) , I trimed it to look more like a "Baja".

The tires are HPI Geolanders.

I have not had it out for a test drive yet, waiting for the 2ft of snow to melt off. Still need to finish it up.

Doomed

02-23-2004, 11:11 AM

I should have said the shocks are Duratrax.

GearHd

02-23-2004, 04:05 PM

I was at a hobby shop today and I saw a pretty nice looking Tamiya Ready to Run 4WD RC car today. It was similar looking to the old Boomerang, it came with a pistol grip ready, prepainted and assembled. The one I was looking at was medium blue with gray decals on it. They were asking $234 for it on sale. I figured I'd come home and check the price through the internet but by the time I got home I couldnt remember the model #. Can anyone help? Thanks

fabolousRC

02-24-2004, 06:27 AM

I think you saw Neo Top Force. It is basically an updated TA-01 chassis where they tookout the trust bearings on the main shaft and replace any other odd bearings so the whole car uses 5x11mm. The RTR car off course is all plastic bushings, of course (duh?) The car also rides on coil-over shocks...no dampening there :p

The best way for you to do is to wait a little longer till the new Gravel Hound shows up at the shops. It comes with ESC that have reverse disable and coil over oil shocks. It still comes with plastic bushings though :confused:

hanafuda

02-24-2004, 08:34 AM

Which pinion gears are you people using? I have the 19, 21, and 23 for the Baja King, and think I prefer the 21 for general use. The 23 gives sweet acceleration but doesn't seem to have a good top end. It isn't easy on the battery either.

Will have to give the 19 another review with the 3300 battery and Super Stock Type T motor, but I have a feeling I will still prefer the 21.

GearHd

02-24-2004, 10:16 AM

Thanks FaboluosRC, that is the exact one I saw. I notice most places are out of stock on it. Is the car new and popular or old and thats why they're out of stock? Also, how is the car durability wise? I would be buying it for my nephew and don't want something too troublesome for him. How is the pistol grip radio? Thanks for the info, Jeff

Doomed

02-24-2004, 12:46 PM

hanafuda- I am going to use the 19 and take out my speed tuned gear to compensate for the mongo sized tires.

nitrorulz

03-11-2004, 10:26 AM

Guys I gotta a couple questions about the BK. I've been thinking about geting one and installing the Novak SS in it! I've used this system in two different Stampede's now, and love the performance, but was wondering if the King will really handle it? Are the diff's strong enough?
Do the drive-cups wear quick?

I want to get one and turn it into a Stadium truck! I know on my Pede's, the main thing that breaks is the plastic Idler gear, so you have to upgrade to the metal one, then you're pretty much good after that. Is there a weak link in the drivetrain I should know about? I've seen the buggy for quite awhile really think its a very neat, fun looking ride!

fabolousRC

03-15-2004, 01:07 AM

Originally posted by GearHd
Thanks FaboluosRC, that is the exact one I saw. I notice most places are out of stock on it. Is the car new and popular or old and thats why they're out of stock? Also, how is the car durability wise? I would be buying it for my nephew and don't want something too troublesome for him. How is the pistol grip radio? Thanks for the info, Jeff

I think tower hobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAWD8&P=0) still have them. The car is about two years old and will soon be discontinued pending the release of new TT01 based Gravel Hound. The car is pretty durable. Please note though, the car does not come with oil shocks, just coil over shocks which means no dampening. It comes with 3 step forward/reverse mech speed control which for a little kid, it's just okay. It does not come with any bushings what so ever. Hobby people sells them cheap which comes down to about 99 cents per bearing and you need about 24 of them. Here is the reason why you want bearings...the fun runs longer, especially for a little kid. Cheap 3300 nimh batteries is highly recommended. ESC is optional. The pistol grip is basically the duratrax/tamiya version of the old 2PC (magnum sport) which very easy to use. If he's not going to plan to go racing with it, the radio is a okay.

scribbeh

04-24-2004, 04:21 PM

Hi guys, I was looking to get into RC and after reading this thread the King seemed a great kit to start with, so I got one, a picture of my king is attached.
It's fully ball raced, and is running on the tamiya CVA II shock set (using the stock springs - thanks for the tip) I'm running the meduim spacer in the rears with no spacer on the front, and I have the slowest oil washer installed (single hole)
I have to say I'm very impressed with this car, even on grass its very fast and the handling is awesome, the shocks are pretty dialed in now and its almost impossible to roll the car even turning at high speed on the grabby grass, and it jumps sweet too.
I have a tamiya hollow carbon prop shaft on order, and I am thinking of going for a faster motor and maybe running a 23t pinion. Can anyone recommend a good budget motor for my king? (I'm am running a futaba MC230CR ESC - I think the limit is 20 turn?)

microrcdude

04-24-2004, 08:10 PM

Cool car!!!!

try a stock motor like the trinity p2k or p2k2. They have tons of torque, and work best in 4wd buggies and touring cars.

microrcdude

04-24-2004, 08:17 PM

I changed my Baja King a bit...

http://www.pbase.com/image/26228717/large.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/image/26228720.jpg

What do you think?I think "a bit" may be an understatement

fabolousRC

04-24-2004, 10:18 PM

mat250

04-26-2004, 09:34 AM

I thought I'd give a little update to my champ. You can see what it used to look like on page one. I'm now running an intellispeed and a 17t atomic force motor. Still using the 17t pinion as well. The steering has also been upgraded with a kimbro saver and new steering rods with traxxas ends.

mat250

04-26-2004, 09:36 AM

a second

mat250

04-26-2004, 09:37 AM

one more

scribbeh

05-02-2004, 12:42 PM

I installed the carbon shaft, and ended up with a Vega Flux 27x1 motor, I also added a Trinity 2500 Zip Metal Hydride pack, but my pro peak 2500 is having trouble charging it (quick charge alarm goes off after 5 mins) - I think I may return it.
Yesterday I broke my king, I wasn't paying attention and hit a brick real hard. The chassis is busted, cracked where it holds one of the rear arms in place. I managed to find the dog-bone but lost one of my cups :(

So I was looking for a new chassis, is the lightweight chassis (Part 53331) worth considering or will it be too weak for an off road application?
Also, as I'm going to need a new set of cups, would I better off investing in the a ball diff? If so would I need to change both the front and the rear diff?
Thanks for any advise guys, it's so easy to waste money on the wrong parts!

Baja_LaF

05-04-2004, 04:35 PM

Hello everybody,

I recently go into R/C and i got a TL-01B (Baja champ) for the same reasons as "scribbeh": it really seems to be a great kit to start with... I must say that I am not desappointed at all !!!

I followed a few advice I saw in this forum (thank you!!) and got the full ball bearing set and an ESC (Futaba MC230). I also changed the original shocks for oil shocks... much better for jumps...! I am having a lot of fun... But, as I always want more :D I got a new motor a 17 x 2 . I bought it too fast and did not check my ESC limits (20 T I think). Does any body know if that really matters? Will the ESC burn? I feel more top speed but less torque than the original 540 motor, and the reverse is much slower with this new motor ? Is the ESC giving all the power the motor needs? THank you for answering my questions, it will probably save me a few more mistakes... :confused:

scribbeh

05-05-2004, 03:11 PM

Baja_laf, yes the MC230CR has a 20t limit, I don't know how far it can be pushed, as I've only ever had a RS540 on my futaba. Hows the runtime on with 17x2? also what packs do you run? and what shock set did you buy? I'm thinking of changing mine as the CVA set seems a bit leaky and needs a top up every few sessions.

After my visit to the shop at the weekend, the car now consists of:

Tamiya lightwieght chassis
Tamiya carbon prop shaft
Tamiya carbon hollow gear shaft
Vega Flux 27x1
LRP Runner ESC
Tamiya CVA Shock set II
24 Steel bearings
Sanyo match 2000 nicad pack

I have to say I'm pretty impressed with it so far, but I fear I am running out of mods that will make much difference to performance without spending silly money on "racing class" components?
Also can anyone comment on mantra ray or ball diffs for buggy use? Also I'd love to know if its possible to put a turnbuckle set on a tl01b?, the stock plastic rods are slightly too short!
Long live the king :)

mat250

05-05-2004, 03:31 PM

scribbeh- Here is a few answers to your questions. I get a solid ten minutes of hardcore bashing with a 17 turn motor and really cheap 3000 nimh packs. As far as your turnbuckle problem you can do what I did for the steering rods. I took a piece of threaded rod then put on a couple of traxxas rod ends on it, new adjustable steering rods.
Hope that helped.

Baja_LaF

05-05-2004, 05:20 PM

scribbeh, thank you for your answer.
-The runtime is not very good but the fun is intense! :) . I 'd say about 5 or 6 mn with my cheap 1500mA nicad and 9 or 10 mn with my good Sanyo 2400mA nicad... motor gets very hot though (specially negative pole) :confused:
- I bought a shock set in a small shop close to where i live, it seems to be a small manufacturer's (the company is called "sedip") and they are very nice (came with different pistons: 1,2 or 3 holes and 5 sets of springs: super-soft, soft, medium, hard and super-hard ) I must say they are a lot of fun because of the variety of settings you can try (the degree of oil viscosity is also a parameter to play with) !!!

here's my baja champ...

How about the Tamiya carbon prop shaft
and Tamiya carbon hollow gear shaft? was it a great improvement?

Baja_LaF

05-05-2004, 05:29 PM

I also would like to change wheels and/or tires to drive the baja on road (there is a lot of concrete where I live!)without wasting off road tires so fast!!! :o
But i am having problem finding the right size (42 mm rear and 32 mm front) if I take same sized rims the car will be wider at the front !? which looks weird to me... would anybody have an advice?

cheechthechi

05-06-2004, 12:52 AM

Try the tires from Pro line. I think they make a special rim for 4wd fronts

These tires should work up front if I'm correct, you can also check the 4wd buggy tires made by team losi.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX84&P=0

Baja_LaF

05-06-2004, 05:05 AM

Thanks for the tip... width of the front proline tire is 1.4 " , original tamiya tire is 1.28"... do you think it will fit or should I buy new rims? and if I buy new rims I don't like too much "disc like" rim (like pro line's white or yellow), i 'd be more into 5 spoke chrome rim (or any chrome rim actually)!!! :D but i am afraid it's hard to find for a buggy!

what about rally or on-road tires such as these:

Doomed

05-06-2004, 10:54 AM

I used these...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU04&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU05&P=7

You can see them on the first page of this thread.

Baja_LaF

05-07-2004, 02:11 AM

THanks a lot Doomed... your Baja looks really nice with those tires on!! I did not think the they would fit on the 2.2 inches diam rim...since they are 2.0 inches inner diam tires. but according to your picture they do! good news :D . I 'll order them today, thanks again!! Do you still have a novak brushless on your tl-01b?

Doomed

05-07-2004, 08:56 AM

My King has beens through a few changes since that pic, but yes I am still running the brushless. And the 2mm difference dosen't matter to much when its smaller. :cool:

SuperNootz

05-10-2004, 01:12 PM

Are there any CVD's / Universals that will fit the Baja King?

mat250

05-10-2004, 10:24 PM

Are there any CVD's / Universals that will fit the Baja King?

I don't think so. They use the same dogbones as the wild dagger and those guys are always looking for something better. The good side is you can use the dagger bones as an upgrade. They are stronger than the stock king and champ bones and they are the same size.

r2c2canada

05-11-2004, 09:38 PM

Hello, we are currantly working on products for our portfolio. We have made a few parts for the car including swingarms, hubs and carriers and shock towers. We are thinging of changing the chassis to two gearboxes with a two plate chassis.

Steve
www.r2-c2.com

vetmxer

06-24-2004, 08:19 AM

i plan to order one of these kits and was wondering what size bearings i need (and how many of each). i know they make a bearing kit but i already have certain sizes and dont want to buy what i dont need.
also can this kit handle a 14 turn quad wind motor? thanks

bongo

06-24-2004, 11:43 AM

you'll need 24 5mm x 11mm

vetmxer

06-24-2004, 09:05 PM

thanks

woodymaxx

06-26-2004, 01:07 AM

hanafuda

06-26-2004, 08:30 AM

Scribbeh - if you haven't done so already, put a better motor in the King. My first upgrade was a Tamiya Sport Tuned - cheap, and noticeably faster. Then I put a Tamiya Super Stock Type T in there, and the difference was considerable.

As for the carbon prop shaft - performance is better. Difficult to specify, but responsiveness is definitely better. They wear out quick though as stones can get stuck between the chassis and the shaft, which wears grooves into them.

The carbon gear shafts reduce weight and friction/resistance (to a certain extent).

vetmxer

06-27-2004, 01:39 PM

Hello I have a baja champ and I would like to get some aluminum front uprights... I heard that gpm has them but I look for them and I can't find anything with that... any ideas anyone.....? and also I would like to get ahold of some new original tires and rims for the champ and I have come up short finding those to any suggests? thanks
give tamiya usa a call they should have just about any parts you need(stock parts). they still have parts for my original blackfoot (1980's vintage)

woodymaxx

06-28-2004, 01:36 AM

Alright thanks I was woundering about that.... just to get them off the company... anyways thanks vetmxer!

Combatcm

09-03-2004, 07:34 PM

I purchased a slightly used baja king for $65 on ebay, it was run 2 times and it came with a 19T reedy spec motor, steering servo and radio and reciever, sweet deal. I am going to race it and pimp it out (not bling pimp, race pimp). My style of driving it taking the inside corner and whipping the rear and then accelerating fast, for the most part. With the front one-way, will it be easier to whip the rear? Although, that was win 1/8th scale.

My track is very small, the main straight is around 30 feet. I am thinking of running a 15T motor, what would anyone reccomend? How about oil weights, 40 front, 30 rear?

microrcdude

09-03-2004, 11:03 PM

i would run a tamiya can! a 15t seems like you arent gonna make it around the track once withoyt breaking something.

Combatcm

09-04-2004, 01:49 AM

I am racing it. I also need/want to get the GPM aluminum motor mount. These things are tougher than normal race buggies.

Combatcm

09-07-2004, 02:04 PM

I broke a dogbone running a reedy spec racing motor. With the 23T pinion is still has great acceleration and just whips when I hit the throttle, top speed is also near 30. I am wondering if anyone has a bunch of other cars that can test fit universals. I want some universals.

Whacky

09-08-2004, 02:25 PM

Hi there,

Had my first testrun with my Baja King, Man what a ride :D .
This is my first offroader (3 jears of onroad only) and i can't remember having so much fun.
I had it hopuped with the bearings, CVA shocks and a 17x4 LRP Rally.
After tearing up the place the battery died after 12mins, damage report a clicking sound in the rear and the motor was to hot to touch :( .
I just removed the motor and it seems the pinion (stock tamiya 19T) as bin chewed up :eek: .
Whel tomorow i will look into the car to see how much my gears have bin chewed and i think i will put a 19turn in it for safety.
Jumps where bad, always nose down and after 3 or for flips it landed on its feet ready to continue, so i have to tune the dampers a bit.

here is a picture.
http://www.geocities.com/whacky2003/Buggy.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/whacky2003/Buggy1.jpg

Combatcm

09-08-2004, 10:22 PM

I am racing mine on sunday, I practiced at the track 2 days ago. The suspension isn't that set up for that kind of action, but it works. I noticed that the buggy also had a nose down attitude after hitting jumps, but hitting them at near top speed and then gunning it in the air helped. My tires are reserved for the track, they are better than any race tread. My spec 19T motor is on the margin of being overgeared for it with the 23T pinion. But it still rips when I hit the throttle.

The pinion should be on the end of the motor shaft, instead how the manual says, which is close to the motor. My pinion is set reversed on the motor shaft with the end of the pinion flush with the motor shaft. The way tamiya tells you to put it gets almost 1/3 mesh, which is horrible.

Combatcm

09-10-2004, 01:04 AM

I want to get some universals for this car, but they are not available, or not available anymore. I want to retrofit other ones in and if the lengths are right, it can be done. I may have to order a bunch and just see which ones work, and then return them.

super nitro universals
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMX88&P=7

Duratrax maximum BX universals
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTS99&P=7

Maximum ST/MT universals
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNR0&P=7'

Oh yeah, right now mine has 4 oil shocks, bearings, 2 degree toe in rear hubs, front one way, rear swaybar, LRP IPC ESC, and a reedy spec competition motor.

For the swaybar you need part 19 on the C parts for the TL01 tourer, but I just got a thin alumunum plate and screwed it over the rear chassis connector and it holds it pretty good.

Whacky

09-12-2004, 01:14 PM

Hi,

I took my king appart today and there was a lot of sand in the rear gearbox :eek: , can't figure out how coms in there becouse where the 2 halfes of the chassic come together are clean and the part that seals the gearbox was on there?
after cleaning the gears they seemed fine but the pinion was chewed up and the rear suspension parts look as if they where sandblasted :mad: .
Took the motor appart also, it was badly damaged by al the pebbles and sand in there.

I think i convert it to a (monster)truck for onroad use (like in the first page of this tread) becouse there is to much damage after one run.

Combatcm

09-14-2004, 12:59 AM

I finally got my digicam, be shure to check the pajero section aslo.

I took the front quad shock off before the last race to make it perform better, i'll just keep it this way.

the motor guard really helps, its just some aluminum flashing taped to the bottom of the rock guard then folded up.

This is a race machine.

Combatcm

09-14-2004, 01:01 AM

The whole power system

Combatcm

09-15-2004, 05:58 PM

This is my rear set up for racing Tmaiya oil shocks really provide no dampening no matter what wt. So I had my donor buggy laying around and made this for it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGBV5&P=7

The shock tower bolts right up to the current tower, you then need 1/8 front shocks to mount to it.

Works great at the track

The stock travel is near 1 inch, maybe 3/4", my rear set up makes it 1 1/2" of travel.

If you're looking for overkill,

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXW2&P=7

That shock tower bolts to the front and you can use 4" shocks.

Oh yeah, see that purple thing? I found a broken front bumper on the track a while ago and stuck it in my tool kit (I always pick random stuff off the ground) later to realize that it fit the mounts on the side. Always pick up random stuff off the ground...its free.

cheechthechi

09-17-2004, 12:48 AM

Nice job on the Baja king. Did any of those universals work?

Combatcm

09-18-2004, 03:02 PM

I didn't experiment with any yet, it should be easy though, I just need a mip CVD axle that fits in the hubs, and then the correct length of axle to reach the cup. Tower sells them individually, but I'm only gonna buy them if I'm really positive.

woodymaxx

09-25-2004, 09:06 PM

hey combatcm... where did you get the tires and wheels at for your buggy? arn't those off the s-10 truck tamiya makes? anyways I have a baja champ and had the same Idea in mind... any mods you have to do to put those on there? thanks

Combatcm

09-26-2004, 12:05 AM

Nope, they fit right on. I have a pajero that uses those tires also, and I had an S10 a while ago that used them too. The rims break easily if you beat them insanely. They are holding up fine. I use them because it doesn't stress the tranny on any surface and you can powerslide and stuff. I like them most because I dont have to worry about wearing them. That's why the spikes are specific track tire.

When I bought the swaybar, they gave me extended hubs, thats why the axle shaft isn't poking out from the nut. It threads in 3/4 of the way. For 2.2" rims I reccomend duratrax MT rims NOT OFFSET TRAXXAS RIMS. The traxxas rims axle hole is wider than the duratrax rims and doesn't let the nut thread on all the way.

Combatcm

10-04-2004, 12:32 PM

It's been a good week for the buggy, I now have MIP CVD's mounted on it, also the swaycar, 1.5 degree rear hubs, bearings, aluminum rear shock tower, Speed gem chrominium motor, IPC sport ESC, motor fan and those sweet huge spike proline tires.

A ful day of racing and there are some things I had to watch out for. Always watch the screws, many of them try to back out over a race or two. Especially the rear hinge screws, and all the upper link screws. I dab some CA on them before I screw them in. it also cures stripped holes and makes them thread alot tighter. Aside from minor problems, I have a slightly larger problem to solve. The CVD bone is starting to wear the drive cup, but this was after an hour of toal running. It would seem it will last a while though. 2 sets of hardened ones may fix the problem.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGH71&P=7

Here is a picture of the front CVD to show the fit.

They are B4 MIP CVD's

Combatcm

10-04-2004, 02:54 PM

Here is a shot of the setup I used for the oval and offroad races, its just more fun like this. I dominated oval races, beating nitro ST's, electric ST's, and a nitro rally TC3, they just threw us together.

Doomed

10-05-2004, 12:05 AM

Hey Combatcm, you got to give me the part numbers for the CVD so I can get my King back together. Did you get all the right parts to do fronts and rears?

Combatcm

10-05-2004, 01:32 AM

Yup, they fit good, a little ghetto, but still good. Yes, all you need is two sets of CVD's for a B4. The wheels wobble a little, but for gods sake, they are CVD's in a baja king!

CVD set is this one, not sure if B3's work.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/389699.asp

You can see how it fits in

from the inside to outside, it goes CVD axle, axle shim, tamiya plastic bushing (essentailly a big axle shim) bearing, bearing, cross pin, sanded down from the bottom traxxas 12mm hex (more durable). The hex binds on the back if tightened down, thats why you sand it. I also used I think they are 3-32 nuts, the big radioshack kind because the axle doesnt use standard nuts, well I noticed that they went on tight. You probaly can, but the force might make the cross pin indent strip because of the shallow sanded hex.

As you can see its a lot of work and you might need to experiment yourself a bit. But in the end its great.

microrcdude

10-05-2004, 08:21 PM

if you need measurements on the B3 CVD's, i can measure mine for you.

Combatcm

10-05-2004, 08:47 PM

Maybe sometime later I'll get a chance to measure them, I'm too lazy now.

I have another problem, the pinion, I noticed that it sharpened down to razor sharp after about 25 runs or so. It is completely dead now, I flipped it around, so the other side would mesh, but it made a horrible sound that was definately wearing the spur. This gets me wondering what other stuff wears over use. I am getting the hardened diff cups, and some spare everything. I really feel like trading my violator for a brushless system, a novak for its ease and not too much power.

Doomed, how did yours hold up with the novak? Did you ever notice the pinions dying? Anything strip? Did you use the better steel tamiya dogbones, or did you use the stock white ball ones, because I got sick of breaking them.

Doomed

10-06-2004, 01:55 PM

Combatcm- thanks for info on the CVDs. Over about a years worth of off and onroad use nothing wore out or broke as far as the drive train goes. Other parts suffered because of the high speed which lead to spectacular crashes. And parts breaking that really shouldn't. :)

Combatcm

10-06-2004, 09:20 PM

I just took it out today, I run this thing almost every day. Some things I noticed about running the buggy, or someone should know if they are getting or will get one of these. The entire chassis is 2 peices, with the suspension arm pin holders molded in them, any extreme hits to the suspension arms will break them off the main chassis and you will need to do major repair. The gear train is very solid, the only time I ever heard something strip was when I was holding it up and dropped it at full throttle, and landed the jump below. Rocks and stuff get under battery packs and make them sort of jam in the chassis, a few wiggles side to side and it will free, but the shrink wrap may get cut. The final drive ratio is sort of low, which makes the car faster but accelerate less. The ratio was made for its touring car roots because they have smaller tires, which with the stock motor and the stock gearing makes for agonizing low speeds as a touring car. With this in mind I GPS's my speed with the 23T pinion and the reedy spec motor. It makes it go 29mph. Backcalculated with the 6.57 gear ratio and the 28.8MPH reading, the motor turns 18172RPM which actually seams less than respectable. But this chassis does magic tricks, it stays however on the verge of being overgreared, but still has great acceleration and top speed. This leads me to my next point, brushless. With the 4300kv motor and a 23T pinion, it will go 48mph! Am I insane, that speed seems just too much. Also, gearing the lowest possible with the 19T pinion and the 4300, it will go 40mph, which is still an awesome speed. By seeing these speeds, I sort of want the 4300 more than the 5800, I dont need the 5800 speeds, they are nearly 20mph faster. But remember, its still an off road vehicle, it will only see the top speed on pavement. I cant make up my mind, I still use cheapo packs all the time and one GP pack, I can't decide.

Oh well, I am going to reccomend these pinion for tamiya vehicles, the tamiya ones do not last, if you ever get achance open it up and look at the gears sidways, they might be more pointy than they were when new. At least these pinions may be made from better metal.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX42&P=7

And you wont need to buy 2 while you dont need the extra one!

I did this near 30 times, nothing broke, however the cliff in the back tore my friends arm off his rustler.

http ://www.r c p i c s.net/view_single.php?medid=39933

TheMartian

10-08-2004, 03:54 AM

boroef

10-08-2004, 11:09 AM

combatcm, how are u calculating the speed of the car with brushless?

are u relying on the rpm's to calculate them? if so, the speeds are off. this is because novak's KV readings are measured when the motor has absolutely no load. i say that with load, probably expect a realistic KV of 1000rpm's less on both motors. therefore the 4200 would be 3200, and the 5800 would be 4800.

in anycase...the 5800 is supposed to be comparable to an 11 or 12 turn in speed...and the 4200...well, i have no clue. i dont even know why they call it the "super stock 4200"...is it comparable to a stock 19t spec? O.o

TheMartian

10-16-2004, 10:38 PM

Got a Novak Brushless SS 5800 today for my Baja King... Incredible power with my 6 cell pack! I am using the 19T pinion with stock gearing and acceleration and top speed are simple amazing. Has anyone with the same brushless system (Doomed?) tried to measure the speed of the car? It feels really fast (I would guess in the 40Mphs...) but I don't have a speed gun or GPS to measure it's speed. Anyone tried the 23T pinion or 7cells with the Novak system? It seems that 23T would not be overkill, since with the 19T pinion the motor barely gets warm and the ESC is just a tiny bit warm.

totoz

10-19-2004, 05:30 PM

I bought a 13T limit ESC for my Baja King, and I am planning on getting a 13T or 14T motor to replace the stock Mabuchi 540. Is there anyone who has tried such a low-turn motor with their TL01B? Any issues encountered? How is the performance? Please respond only if you have really tried...

I tried a 13x2 motor with 23T on an off-road race track with LRP digital ESC. Broke the rear right dogbone in less than 2 minutes.... I reverted to my stock Tamiya Super Stock RR since then, dogbones are too expensive here in Italy (about 14$ a pair :( ). Note that this BK is with full ball-bearing, carbon shaft and TeamLosi Tires, but it's very hard to race with other cars in the beginner stock (I'm allowed to use the BK even if someone else uses 2wd like XXX-BK2 or Asso B3/B4, but still the BK is harder to drive...).
If you want to race and go fast without having trouble and lot of expenses, my suggestion is to go for stock 27 turns like MVP, Trinity Monster or Core... If you want to go faster with a decent life for the different parts, it should be better to upgrade to other more competition-thought cars.

Ciao!

TheMartian

10-22-2004, 12:03 AM

Totoz, thanks for the advice. But 1 wk ago I bought a Novak Brushless 5800 and performance is really impressive in the BK! So far nothing broke, and speed is really phenomal. I will really need to buy some shocks to replace the springs... the ride is so bouncy that at full speed the car just flips over on hitting any slightly uneven surface...

Doomed

10-22-2004, 01:14 AM

Has anyone with the same brushless system (Doomed?) tried to measure the speed of the car?

I have never measured its top speed but you are right, it has to be around 35-40mph. It flat out leaves my stock Delphi and that thing will do 32mph. I have the speed tuned gears, carbon drive shaft and bearings. Fun stuff, let me know if you ever get some hard numbers. Love to see them.

Combatcm

10-22-2004, 01:49 PM

I am getting the novak soon. I can get hard number from my GPS. Mine is sitting around becuase the brushes wore out.

TheMartian

10-23-2004, 02:49 AM

Well I managed to break something today... while cornering the car flipped over and part of the chassis that holds the rear-right suspension arm cracked. D*** those springs!
3 observations I made:
(1) After 5 min sprinting on the asphalt, the Novak brushless ESC was really hot! (even though the motor was barely warm.) I never noticed that before... I guess it's because today the weather was nicer and ambient temperature was in the 70s. Could not touch it for more than 2 seconds. I am using default gearing. The only difference is that I just bought 2 new sets of Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs, which have a slightly bigger diameter than the default spiky tires. I was thinking of getting a 21T or 23T pinion or using a 7-cell battery but now I'm thinking twice.
(2) I used a Futaba 330CR before switching to the Novak Brushless system and it seems to me that I used to have longer radio range. Does the Novak ESC or motor emit more radiation than other systems? The receiver was initially underneath the Futaba ESC but now I had to move it out... my range would be only around 50ft with the brushless system. Beyond that range the car would stutter and sporadically move left and right and not reverse - totally out of control. But now, even with the receiver far away from the ESC (well cannot really get that far on a TL01B), radio range is definitely not as good as before.
(3) The car has a lot of trouble tracking straight! I wonder if there is any hop-up to fix that. It seems really hard to get all 4 wheels aligned properly.

Well it looks like to bring my BJ to an acceptable level (new chassis to replace cracked one, shocks, tracking problem,...) I would be better off getting a whole new kit... like the RC10B4 which can be obtained for a real bargain price... give me your thoughts guys.

Doomed

10-23-2004, 09:56 AM

I have used the same tires on mine with the 19tooth and yes it gets hot, maybe too hot. One fix would be to install a fan blowing on the ESC. The problem is the size and weight of the tires/wheels and the gearing. Combine that with the warmer day and you have a very hot ESC. You might want to gear down with a Thunder Tech Racing motor mount which will enable you to use a 16 or 17 tooth(some one correct me if I am wrong). Can't help you with the radio range, sounds like you have done wat it takes to curb that. Maybe try twisting the motor leads in a spirl. Heard it helps. As far as not tracking straight, the higher profile of the Dirt Hawgs may have something to do with it. Can't really tell with out being there. Lastly the RC10B4 is a great 2wd buggy. Infinitly more refined than the BK. That being said, I believe that the BK will take a beating better than the B4. (Don't have a B4 so maybe I am wrong). In my area, its easier to get parts for the Tamiya. I would think the B4 will handle the brushless power better. It depends on what you like to do, I really enjoyed upgrading the BK to its current level. Fun car.

TheMartian

10-23-2004, 10:24 AM

Doomed, what part of the world are you in. You are lucky to have easy access to Tamiya parts. Here in St.Louis the hobby store had to order my BK and does not carry spare parts. I got this buggy b/c of what I heard about its reliability. Here LHS carry mostly Associated, Losi and Traxxas.
Btw, what difference does the hollow carbon propeller shaft make. I heard good things about it but so far no explanation on the real difference.
I'm still debating whether I should change platform... heard that driving 2WD is way harder than 4WD. I guess I will remove the propeller shaft and try 2WD mode on the BK and see how it feels before considering the RC10B4 or T4...

Doomed

10-23-2004, 12:01 PM

I am in Nebraska, I have three LHS within 10 miles. Most of them will order anything I want for $0 shipping if they don't have it. 2wd buggys are not very popular here so usually not in stock. As far as the carbon bits, I have them but couldn't give you any "imperical data " on the benefits. I just know that lighter is better when it comes to rotational mass. 2wd vs 4wd questions will be a matter of personnal preference, but obvously 4wd will have move control, easier to put the power down.

Combatcm

10-23-2004, 01:31 PM

Well, for turning the carbon prop shaft may give you a little advantage. Hold your car up by the center and swing it back and forth horizontally, notice how the car pulls your hand when you chage direction. When turning you car needs to overcome that force. Since the prop shaft runs straight down the chassis, your car would be more agile in the turns, along with making you accelerate faster because the car is lighter. The stock one weighs a lot for its size.

For the winter I am chaging mine from the baja king to a police car just because there w