Associated TC3 Forum v3.0

[Marines]

IF Team Associated was making a new touring car, how do you guys think the Associated engineers should do to make the new touring car better than the TC3??

[RC10's]

There are a few structural things about the TC3 that I dont consider to be too good. The front A-arms break way too often, I do realize they have released a new one but it has more shock mounting holes and I dont think they adressed the strength issue. Also the way the shock towers tie into the diffs I dont like a whole lot either. Overall it is an excellent car that handles extremly well and is fairly durable...I am a long tiem off-road driver so I am a little harder then most on an on-road and I suppose that is part of my complaints with the strength. I love the steering on them...overall a great car though...what would YOU do?

[FSU427P]

I would say the steering rack needs to be addressed. That part is much too weak, and while there are aluminum aftermarket alternatives, the factory should have alleviated the warpage problem. Overall, the TC3 is a proven winner with virtually no flaws. A begginer could build a TC3 kit, set it up with the factory settings, and be a winner. The car is just that good.

It would (and will) be hard for Associated to top what they have done for the touring car world. The TC3 sparked the shaft drive revolution that so many companies have caught on to lately, and now just about every company has developed their own "version" of the TC3.
It seems that Associated has put itself in a sticky position, but that's not to say that the next car will not be a piece of work (look at what they did with the B4 as an answer to Losi's XXX). Associated is well-known for pulling rabbits out of their hats and their next competition tourer (whenever that will be released) will be no exeption to that fact. Look for something with the same materials, the same factory backing, and the same heritage that Associated has become a legend for, and look for it to be twice, if not three times, as good as the TC3 we all nkow and love today.

Just my $ .02

[Grizzbob]

To be honest, I don't really think the TC3 needs any revolutionary changes, only maybe some evolutionary ones. Like perhaps some minor changes in front suspension geometry to give it more aggressive steering when using the rear shock tower up front & running a front spool(& also maybe making the rear shock tower thing a permanent update for both ends of the car in all kits), & incorporating the battery tray mod that a lot of guys seem to like(milling the inner wall to move the battery closer to the center of the car, seems to improve its transitional handling by all reports). Additionally, I'd like to see them incorporate the Nitro TC3's steering setup as well, I've also heard good things about it from guys who've tried it. Who knows, maybe even a pivot suspension upgrade kit could be offered, for those who'd prefer to use it(much like X-Ray's doing now with their T-1 Evo, offereing the chance to use either suspension type)....:cool:

[jdm3849]

Hey,

Last night I bought a TC3 team from my LHS- First I need to know if I got a good deal ($150).
All stuff brand new and never used-but put together. (besides radio)

Tc3 team kit built
LRP F1 pro reverse
Speed gems 17t sapphire
JR race servo
Rally conversion kit NIB
Sorex slicks on black ofna mesh wheels
Soft HPI race tires on pro-line wabash white wheels
Long blue motor heatsink
RPM ballcups
Shiny CVD's all around
Blue stratus body
Very old school looking tower hobbies radio:(

I had $300 and was going to get a LD3, but saw this (half the price) and remember the simplicity of electrics, had to get it.
The tag at the satore said it had the 200mm conversion? But I believe they were talking about the rally conversion.


A few questions:
What size are the wheel nuts? I do not have one socket that fits, I used a caliper and it seemed to be 11/32, but the "walls" to all the sockets we have are too thick and have clearance problems with the wheel.

Also, what size allen drivers will I need to completely tear down and rebuild this TC? (cause I dont want the wimpy kit ones)

This is my first on-road car I have ever owned or driven, they are way more finicky to radio inputs!!! I think these would be hard as heck to race. Great fun though I have owned 6 Off road vehicles in the past and can tell how a bad set-up would affect these TC's.


Enough of my talking

-Mike (THANKS!)

[BigBadTahoe]

Hey BIGDADDYV thanks for the advice I think I will try that motor it sounds pretty sweet! Only prob. is my LHS owner is a big airplane guy so he doesn't stock much RC stuff.
:mad: I'll have him order it for me and I will get it in like a week or 2 hopefully. Thanks again.:)

[ebtucker]

I bought the Novak SS Brushless for my TC3. No time to install tonight, will do first thing after work tomarrow. Also got a 20t pinion. so im going to have lot of torque for serious drifting with my proline v-rage tires. Will have full details of Brushless TC3.

[jdm3849]

Sweet! I'm just thinking that will be way too much power to be able to drift, especially with those v-rage tires. Cause even with this 17turn I spin out and barely have a chance to drift.

I just took the motor out for the first time tonight, the pinion is a 19 tooth and the spur is 72. I seem to get very long run times with this combo of a 17t and 2000's, but seems like i could have more top end. Not much more needed though, I like the wheel spinning torque and long run times.

What is good gearing for a core stock on a fairly tight carpet track? I have never driven on an on-road track, do I need to buy foams for PRACTICING (thats all i'll be doing) or can I run rubbers like some of the classes do. BTW my treaded rubbers are hpi x pattern in soft race compound, will those grip good enough and get me through the corners? I feel like a newb again cause i know absolutely nothing about touring cars!!! :D

Also, Would I benefit mounting my reciever on its side inbetween the servo and esc as opposed to ontop of the servo (heard it causes glitching).

One last Q, kinda broad but what spring/oil set-up would allow me maximum control through the corners at high speed (like flingability) lol. If ya get it: thanks for the reply's

I appreciate your patience to my newbish questions.




OK, I swear last question. What body looks real good with a 1 color paint job but does not have a spoiler, what color/ style wheels look good also?

The lexus LS430? looked good in black, just want some suggestions.

[BIGDADDYV]

Dub, not a problem.. I hope I helped... If you dont want to wait the 2 weeks you can order it through tower and youll have it in like 4 days... 34 bucks and I think it was 4 bucks to ship it..

Ebtucker, you have to give me the full detail try out on the Brushless... I am seriously thinking of ordering it this Saturday... I neeed to push this car to its limits and I read the write up in Julys issue of RCCA mag and it was astounding... almost 200ft in under 4 sec... come on man install that thing already....

JDM. If your going for looks I use Integra 26mm 5 spoke chromes.. They come mounted with a pretty agressive tread... They look awsome too.. Venom racing makes some really nice 26mm chrome wheels mounted with some really agressive radials also.. Both really hold well on the street.. The spoiler question is a hard one.. All depends on what your into I guess.. I use a Mustang Saleen body, But you dont care for wings... Proline makes some really cool stuff ya just gotta check it out and see what pops out at ya ...
BDV

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Sweet! I'm just thinking that will be way too much power to be able to drift, especially with those v-rage tires. Cause even with this 17turn I spin out and barely have a chance to drift.

I just took the motor out for the first time tonight, the pinion is a 19 tooth and the spur is 72. I seem to get very long run times with this combo of a 17t and 2000's, but seems like i could have more top end. Not much more needed though, I like the wheel spinning torque and long run times.

What is good gearing for a core stock on a fairly tight carpet track? I have never driven on an on-road track, do I need to buy foams for PRACTICING (thats all i'll be doing) or can I run rubbers like some of the classes do. BTW my treaded rubbers are hpi x pattern in soft race compound, will those grip good enough and get me through the corners? I feel like a newb again cause i know absolutely nothing about touring cars!!! :D

Also, Would I benefit mounting my reciever on its side inbetween the servo and esc as opposed to ontop of the servo (heard it causes glitching).

One last Q, kinda broad but what spring/oil set-up would allow me maximum control through the corners at high speed (like flingability) lol. If ya get it: thanks for the reply's

I appreciate your patience to my newbish questions.




OK, I swear last question. What body looks real good with a 1 color paint job but does not have a spoiler, what color/ style wheels look good also?

The lexus LS430? looked good in black, just want some suggestions.

If i had to go for style i'll get me this...
The car just looks awsome with/without the wing

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/bodies/3115-16/3115.jpg

[Jhstud50]

I just bought a TC3 Racer and it is coming on the way to my house. I need to know what pinion I need for the 72 teeth spur and I have a 19 turn motor. What pinion am I supposed to get? :D

[AznJunkie]

Jhstud50 - I would gear it like a stock motor. Try a 28t or a 27t pinion.

I should be getting my TC3 today. Where the heck is the USPS man! :D

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by jdm3849
like flingability lol.

Offical Edict: Let it be known through out the land, that on June the Forth, in the year 2003 of our Lord, JDM offically added new language to the R/C world, indeed, the world itself by coining the phraze FLINGABILITY. lol

[jdm3849]

I that a good thing? :confused: :confused: :confused:














I have the "wabash" by pro-line wheels on the TC3, but cannot find a nut driver that has a thin wall thickness to be able to get to the nut since it is kind of concealed(sp) in the wheel. So i used needle nose pliers but doubt I got it on tight enough. Whats another solution?

[Grizzbob]

Actually, I know they sound cheap but I picked up a little 15 piece socket set made(sold) by Popular Mechanics, & its sockets seem to fit in there, never had a problem getting it to work...;)

[Vegaspilot]

Hey guys, I just finished building my Team TC3 and the problem I'm having is that it seems to want to wander/pull left or right at speed on certain surfaces. The street in front of my house is smooth asphalt and it seems the worst there. It tracks pretty straight and true at my friends house where the road seems rougher...more traction I'm guessing. I've checked everything I can think of...camber, toe, steering rack, tried a different servo, droop, even swapped the diffs front to back and set them. I'm pretty much stumped. The only thing I can see is that just eye-balling the front tires the left one looks pretty straight while the right one has maybe a degree or so of toe out...set the links to factory specs and this is how it was. I tried toeing in the right tire a touch to even them out, but that made the trim out of whack and after I reset the trim the right tire still looks like it has more toe out. Is it just the traction is poor in front of my house and I need stickier tires or something else...this is my first TC(all off road before). It's great fun, but the darting and pulling is getting me irritated. Thanks for any help and suggestions.

[jdm3849]

Wow, thats strange. I have a Popular Mechanics (not cheap at all) 101 peice socket set, and NONE of them fit. I ran my TC3 at practice tonight with sucess ( besides the fact that the motor kept moving because I did'nt know nuts had to go under the chassis where the cam screws come out). I think the shocks need a rebuild. Whats good oil that will make for good sideways action? I want it to be Flickable but not so much that i will spin out everytime i turn. BTW, i am running worn out slicks for the street. gold in front silver in rear. Will the rpm bumper save me from a big crash vs. the stock? I think the huge foam will be the biggest factor though. Will the TC3 be able to handle the novak SS? How much extra wear will the TC3 have to deal with from a ll the extra power?


Edit: VegasPilot- It's called torque steer, it happens in drive shaft type TC's. i am new to touring cars (like you. have had 6 off-roads) so do not know how to fix it.

BTW, are you a biker? Cause i had a vegas but it got a hairline crack from the headtube to bottom bracket.lol
If you are or not, hit me up on aol (blknblubkrdude) or msn - mmurray3849@msn.com

Anyone can for that matter, i'm lonely ;) :D

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Theres really nothing you can do to correct torque steer without throwing the car out of balance. The best thing you can do is adapt to it and manually correct it while you're driving.

[Grizzbob]

Agreed, I've just always adjusted my steering trim to allow it to track straight on a straighaway, & I'll deal with it everywhere else on track. As for your shocks, jdm3849, I like using 50wt in the fronts & 30wt in the rears, seems to be a good balance without going too heavy(so traction is good as long as the track's not too bumpy or grippy). And about the RPM bumper, it is better than the stock plastic one, but you still need the foam one with it(that's an absolute for most ANY TC, & what I like about the RPM one is it won't bend down & scrape the ground like the original does after awhile). And as for a brushless setup, the TC3 should have no problem handling the power, but I would keep an eye on the composite CVD's & molded diff outdrives, those may wear faster with the extra power(much like when using a good 10 turn motor, which the Novak brushless system apparently is close in power to)....:cool:

[jdm3849]

I have steel outdrives with MIP Shiny CVD's, so am I pretty much set? I still have the stock driveshaft, so would it be wise to pick up the aluminum one and maybe some aluminum outdrives where the shaft goes in?


Thanks

[ebtucker]

Hey JDM, I bought my racer kit a week ago and they must have made a mistake, they put a blue aluminum driveshaft in my kit. Bonus.

Also i wasted my rear diff. It must have been loosend by the power of the brushless system, totally melted the outdrive and pieces of plastic were wraped around the diff balls, i ran a 20t pinion and 72 spur and a set of those hpi rally tires for traction in the rough asphalt street. the torque is tremendous, and spped is outright awsome with a 27t pinion. so im going to get the steel outdrives and replace all the ring gears and diff balls.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Actually, all the Racer kits come with Aluminum shafts now, something about the CF shafts being too difficult to make.

[FSU427P]

They stopped making the carbon shafts because, yes, they were too difficult to produce, and many times due to a high speed impact, the shaft would crack, eventually causing catastrophic failure when the shaft shattered and exploded.

[Grizzbob]

That can happen, ebtucker. The diffs can loosen a bit as they break in, & if they're not set tight enough when you bolt in some serious power(like with Novak's brushless setup), then you likely WILL melt them(which is precisely what you describe). Next time before you run with that motor, check both diffs by holding the wheels of one end still & then try to turn the spur. It should be VERY difficult to turn if you can do it at all, so that when a lot of power is applied the diffs won't slip & melt like that....:cool:

[ebtucker]

To get me running again i glued the diff together very well and switched it with the front diff, same as if i had a solid spool like the Dragon one the sell for 54.99. also i tightened the other diff as tight as it would go. untill i get the steel outdrives.

[Grizzbob]

Well, that would get you running again, but your car may not handle very well with a locked rear diff, it may cause the car to spin out more in high speed turns(more diff action helps maintain grip in a corner). Also, the steel outdrives will hold up better to the abuses of a mod, but if your diff is loose again you'll still melt a ring gear(that's the gear the diff balls sit in), so be very careful when setting the diff's tightness next time. Something else that might be of use to you, I've only recently changed from the old steel & aluminum outdrives to the molded ones, & as a result I had to use different bearings inside the diffs(the old ones aren't supposed to fit, I think they're thicker than the newer ones). Well, when I was making the switch, I accidentally dropped & lost one of the newer bearings, so I decided to chance it & substitue one older bearing in there with a newer one(I did this on the front diff) & tried it. I couldn't fully tighten the diff nut like normal, because the diff would basically lock up, but after I backed off some & played with the setting I found that I could get it to be VERY tight & yet still work smooth enough with out any slippage, so it acts very similarly to a locked diff or spool. And my car's felt great with it that way, regardless of the motor I use, stock or 10 turn mod(I've checked it to make sure there's NO slippage, & it's solid as a rock). However, in the rear I'm still running the diff like I used to, just tight enough to not slip much(if at all), but keeping its action silky smooth. I've been very happy with my car like this, & as a result I don't think I'll try to "fix" it, & maybe something like that could be to your liking too(something to give a try, at least)...:cool:

[AudiTT-Quattro]

9 Turn fun! Plastic diff bad!

I was fooling around today when all of a sudden my back diff just locks up. Turns out, the plastic around the balls just melted and locked the balls. I'm trying to pry the plastic off the balls now.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

With closer inspection, most of the plastic in the diff has actually melted. In other words, it's gone for good.

Anyone have the part number for the Yokomo one-way diff that works for the TC3?

[DualBL]

ok, you guys.
let's say I'm running w/ alot of power in my tc3...

I've got a spool, in the rear, because the diff WILL melt from the motor I'm using, and if it didn't melt, it would be so tight, it'd be the same as a spool (locked diff)

I've broken 5 aluminum cvds, and now I just broke a MIP Shiny CVD.

this is only in the rear, the front has a diff, and is fine.

what would you guys recomend?
I'm thinking I'll need to get custom shafts made:confused:

[FSU427P]

You could do that, or try looking into the beefy aluminum shafts from IRS. Check their website.

[DualBL]

you think they'd hold up better than MIP's Steel ones?

i just can't keep throwing money at this, and I'm not sure if anything aluminum will work, since I broke a MIP Shiny STEEL one:rolleyes: :confused:

[FSU427P]

Are you running a brushless setup in your TC3?
If you are, then you should consider running steel outdrives AND either MIP shiny CVD's or the IRS aluminum CVD's. I think if you use the steel outdrives they will take out some of the pressure exherted on your CVD's. And if you use th shiny CVD's or the IRS versions, that should compliment the steel outdrives. I know all of that together might cost a pretty penny, but doing it should be the last time you do.

[FSU427P]

Also, if you don't have these already, put in the aluminum drive shaft (Associated part) and aluminum drive cups (IRS part). that might also help with the pressure of a brushless motor (or whatever you are running).

[BIGDADDYV]

What am I going to need to do to make my car take a brushless set up????
I am going to go with a Novak Super Sport system....the car is basically a stock FTTC3.... Any help here guys would be great... Thanks in advance, BDV

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im on a low budget. i have battery, radio, esc, chargers.

im considering a tc3. maybe racer, ft.

i wanna kno the difference in handling, how much better ft tc3 is. and all the others. plz help me out

[BIGDADDYV]

Get a hold of Junes issue of RCCA mag and it breaks down the top 3 sedans.. Well shaft driven that is..LOL...
I have only had mine for about 4 months and I still dont know how I lived without it.... If your budget allows you get the FT version you wont regret it...
I dont want to ruin any reading you may have ahead of yourself but the TC3 beats them both hands down in all catagories...
Hope it helps ya , BDV

[DualBL]

BIGDADDYV, you shouldn't need any upgrades for the SS

FSU, I'm running a Basic 5300 brushless...

I've got a spool, in the rear, because the diff WILL melt from the motor I'm using, and if it didn't melt, it would be so tight, it'd be the same as a spool (locked diff)

I've broken 5 aluminum cvds, and now I just broke a MIP Shiny CVD.


:confused:

[RC10's]

cryogenics is your answer. Having parts cryogenically treated increases the strenght considerably. Look for a shop or someone in your area that has parts treated or that has a treating system. It generally doesnt cost too much and will definetly increase the strength.

[ole]

Help guys. What pinion should i use for my tc3? i'm using stock 72t spur and GM3 motor.

[FSU427P]

Is that a stock motor?
If you have your TC3 manual, it should tell you the right combination. If you don't, tell us exactly what kind of motor it is (stock, 19t spec, or what turn it is for modified) and we'll put you on the right path.

[Hanibel]

I have been running the following:

Monster Stock Pro
72t spur
24t pinion

I would like to switch to 64p gears. Where would I start to approximate where I am now.

Also, can you use 64p gears with a brushless system. The Novak SS BL is on my short list of upgrades

Thanks

[FSU427P]

I would think 48pitch gears would be the best choice for brushless applications. they seem to hold up better under maximum load conditions.

[SpecialEd0084]

Hey guys,

I was wondering where you mounted your power capacitors for your escs. I'm running a cyclone and there's tight enough room already for electronics. Before I had it sorted mounted in mid air, but it'd get knocked around a lot and eventually broke off.

[RC10's]

I would definetly stick with 48pitch. 64 is way to fine to use under heavy load applications, especially a brushless, I wouldnt even run a brushless with 64p.

[TC3Racer67]

hey guys, when you rebuild a diff, do you put any oil or anything other than what comes in the kit? thanks

[BIGDADDYV]

I usually keep a spare tube of assymbly lube around for just that reason.. I also use it for in between the spur and pinion... Ya just gotta remember a little dab will do ya... BDV

[TC3Racer67]

i meant like inside the diff, mine's pretty gritty every time i rebuild it.

[FSU427P]

Do you mean gritty like dirt is getting in there? That shouldn't be happening at all. Or at least it should be minimal. Just rebuild the diff per the instructions, lube the gears like it tells you to, and look into some new transmission gear cases. I've had my TC3 for about 8 months and I've only rebuilt the diffs once. Other than normal adjustments and lube service, they have not needed to be rebuilt as frequently as you say, and I have never had too much dirt in the cases and gears.

[BIGDADDYV]

Thats what I meant also.. I put some on the gears and give them a spin to ensure that it has reached all the way around and then close her up.. I also use it as a lube on my Pede on the spur and pinion... BDV

[TC3Racer67]

there's no dirt, and I dont have to rebuild more than 6 months apart, it just seems like it can be smoother, I don't have any lube in it though, maybe that's why?!!

[Grizzbob]

TC3Racer67, when you rebuilt your diffs, you did change out the thrust balls & washers, right? Those washers(& the bigger diff rings) can become grooved pretty easily, which in turn will contribute to that gritty feeling. It also happens when any of the balls in the diff become flat-spotted(which can happen if the diff's been set too loose for long, the slipping can damage them).....:cool:

[crono man]

thinking of getting a FTTC3 and was just wondering if theres any aftermarket hop-ups that are worth getting even tho the car is pretty much loaded out-of-the-box..

[FSU427P]

For tunability options, go ahead and get a front oneway. You're going to have to buy wheels and tires to complete the kit anyway, so get a few sets with different rubber componds, and pick up a set of foams too, for those really clean tracks that beg for foams!
Make sure your speed control and receiver are both fairly small. There's not too much room in there for electronics. Get different pinion sizes for different track conditions. The stock spur gear is a 72 tooth/48pitch unit. Other than that, you're right. The FT TC3 is well-optioned out of the box. I love mine. Good luck!

[crono man]

Originally posted by FSU427P
For tunability options, go ahead and get a front oneway. You're going to have to buy wheels and tires to complete the kit anyway, so get a few sets with different rubber componds, and pick up a set of foams too, for those really clean tracks that beg for foams!
Make sure your speed control and receiver are both fairly small. There's not too much room in there for electronics. Get different pinion sizes for different track conditions. The stock spur gear is a 72 tooth/48pitch unit. Other than that, you're right. The FT TC3 is well-optioned out of the box. I love mine. Good luck!

ok thanks FSU47P just one last question do the blue aluminium screws strip easily?should i change them to steel screws?

thanks:)

[jdm3849]

If you are using the cheap L shaped black steel allen drivers almost all screws will strip in no time. Get a good set of allen drivers (dynamite,cheap & look good,replacable hardened tips).
I have never stripped a screw with dynamite in any of my cars, but have stripped countless many with cheap kit ones.
Also, do not put the aluminum screws in high stress places, they will snap easier than steel and may make you have to buy new part when the break because part of the screw will still be in the peice.





Will the aluminum battery brace keep my batteries noticebly cooler?

Where do they sell complete stainless screw sets for the tc3?, In US sizes. Also, will puting bearings in my steering take away some slop and smooth out the action? Will it increase speed noticebly?


Thanks- mIkE

[BIGDADDYV]

My aluminum batt brace keeps mine quite a bit cooler.. My run times also increased slighty... BDV

[FSU427P]

I'm not sure who sells titanium screw sets, but hardcore racing probably does. Yes, bearings in your steering rack assembly help with slop a great deal. You might also want to check and replace the steering rack. It tends to warp under pressure. Go with the trinity aluminum steering rack.

[jdm3849]

BDV, Is your battery brace the factory team one, or an aftermarket one with heat sink fins?

What is the cheapest biggest upgrade that will add durability to the tc3?

[FSU427P]

If you didn't buy the Factory Team version of the car, a full carbon graphite component kit will be the biggest, most worth-while upgrade you can do.

[BIGDADDYV]

JD, I custom milled mine out of T-6 aluminum... It is lighter than the FT one that I got with the kit.. I use F/R sways, a FT drive line, motor heat sinks, They seem to help out a bit ... The car is a masterpiece out of the box but of course with the will to be better stronger, faster it only gets better from there.... I have only hadthe car for 5 months and I really dont know how I ever lived without it... My off road stuff and other fabrications have been on hold for , well 5 months now and I am always finding that the car never ceases to amaze me... I find that with most cars and trucks that when you put hop-ups on them they dontdo nything for it until you hit the wall or ome off wrong on a jump.. With the TC3 FT hop-ups they not only look really sharp but imediatley improve the way your car handles or what have you... Hope I helped... BDV

[jdm3849]

It's just the racer with the main upgrades such as shiny cvd's, long heatsink, 200mm conversion, and some robinson racing driveline parts.

I also have a FT T3 with all the graphite but it is no less or no more durable than the T3 with kit plastic!! Does anyone make woven carbon fiber shock towers that are bomb proof? The outdrives for the main prop shaft look like they will wear fast, will aluminum ones be a good investment?

[BIGDADDYV]

I have asked all of these questions at my LHS and a good rule is this...
If it doesnt make it go faster, run harder, stop quicker, or last longer than the original part then it doesnt need to be replaced until after you wreck it ...LOL...

[BigBadTahoe]

Sorry for being off topic but I am trying to get one of the best spec motors I can. Since I am pretty sure there faster than stock motors correct? I have heard the Trinty Arcornite Pro is a good motor along with the Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro Motor. Are these good motors or are there better ones I should get? I want to have a faster and more powerful motor than my spec 19 motor that came in my car. Thanks!:D :confused:

[BIGDADDYV]

CHAMELEON 2 PRO RUNS LIKE A 15T!!!!!!!
Its awsome.. If you think your car ran fast before , you will then know that its a slug after you slap one of those bad dads in there.... I didnt beleive it until i did it for myself... Good luck .. BDV

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok Thanks BIGDADDYV! Sounds pretty sweet to me. I'll order it right now!

[BIGDADDYV]

Tower has them for 34 shipped.. Check them out and LMK how ya make out...
They run pretty cool too so ya dont have ot worry about too mch heat .. Unless ya gear it too high then you have another prob.. But stock gearing should run very well for ya.. BDV

[BigBadTahoe]

Just got done ordering one from Tower. I plan on running the stock spur whatever teeth count that is with a 24t pinion. Does sound pretty good? BTW I also am having a problem with the car not straighting itself up after I get done turning, it is all the stock radio gear that comes with the RTR TC3, what should I do? Thanks for being so helpful!:D

[BIGDADDYV]

Look for tiny little rocks in and under the steering linkage .. Thats how mine was when I first started running it...
If thats doesnt seem to help and doesnt sound like an answer to your problems ,LOL.. You may want to invest in sway bars for the front and rear or consider moving the battery adjuster to the rear for more traction and less steering..Heck I dont really know what it could be but I hope this gives you a place to start loking... Enjoy that new Chameleon .. Keep us u to date .. BDV

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok Thanks again! Its probably both things you mentioned so I'll check it out.

[BIGDADDYV]

I dont know if my information is that acurate as pertaining to your steerng problem.. I have only had my tc3 for 5 months.. I bought the FT kit and didnt put all the FT parts on it at first...( my buddy gave me his wrecked TC3 for spare parts) When I want to enhance something on it I use the FT parts .. the only thing I havent put on it is the transponder... But as far as problems go ,Ive had plenty... I think I have worn out my welcome at my LHS during the questions and answer period...LOL..
LMK how it works out for ya... BDV

[NewToNitro]

I need some washers for the steering rack(the ones what go between the bearings). I looked up the AE part number but it says i have to buy the whole busing set. What size are they and were can i get some?

[crono man]

hey guys im kinda torn between the FTTC3 and the evo3 surikarn edition..
-my local track is on the technical side
-my lhs can get both makes of spare parts

any input that can sway my decision would be greatly appreciated!

[BIGDADDYV]

All I can say is get a hld of last months issue of RCCA mag and check out the head to head on the top 3 shaft driven cars.. After reading that check out the July Issue of RCCA and thats the car they use to test drive the new Novak Super Sport Brushless with flying colors... I dont want to ruin any reading but ... THE TC3 WINS HANDS DOWN BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After you have made the right decision we will welcom you to the Light side of the force..... LOL...
Dude your getting a TC3..

[crono man]

Originally posted by BIGDADDYV
All I can say is get a hld of last months issue of RCCA mag and check out the head to head on the top 3 shaft driven cars.. After reading that check out the July Issue of RCCA and thats the car they use to test drive the new Novak Super Sport Brushless with flying colors... I dont want to ruin any reading but ... THE TC3 WINS HANDS DOWN BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After you have made the right decision we will welcom you to the Light side of the force..... LOL...
Dude your getting a TC3..

hehehe...BIGDADDYV could you please tell me what were the other TC in the shaft drive shootout?

[jdm3849]

One other thing that shall sway your decision is that more people WILL be running the TC3 at the track (99% sure), therefore more people will be able to help you with your set-up and give you tips and hints.

In the face off:
FT TC3
MRC Academy STR-4
Tamiya TB Evo III

(Tc3 wins all around)

[BIGDADDYV]

Godd job JD... Thats what I call memory...lOL...
I read that article like 10 times and could not for the life of me remember the other 2 cars.. I guess it doesnt really matter.... We know who tyhe winner is..
Crono, I have only had the car for 5 months now and I cant beleive I went this long without it... Its a dream to run .. Event the out of the box RTR is outstanding as far as RTR's go that is...
Youll have a blast with it no matter what ya choose.... The instructions from AE read like ( step one take toaster out of box)< step 2 ( plug in toaster).. Backed by all the titles and support equipment .. DUde ya cant go wrong ... Heck after reading this I think I will go out and buy another one ..LOL..
Take care and let us know when ya get it... BDV

[crono man]

well nothing left to say with comments like that:D its FTTC3 time!!

thanks alot guys for all the info:)

[BIGDADDYV]

Hey guys, wait till Crono finds out that he CANT push the car to its limits... At least I havent been able to give it more than it can handle and I am a maniac... I just might get one and convert it to a rally car just to see what kind of damage I can inflict on some loose gravel and dirt... Then I will have the best of both worlds... LOL..

[crono man]

Originally posted by BIGDADDYV
Hey guys, wait till Crono finds out that he CANT push the car to its limits... At least I havent been able to give it more than it can handle and I am a maniac... I just might get one and convert it to a rally car just to see what kind of damage I can inflict on some loose gravel and dirt... Then I will have the best of both worlds... LOL..

i am sure going try im going to put my novak brushless in it with 7cells from pro-match:D

[BIGDADDYV]

Now I am envious.... I have to wait to get my brushless till the end of next month.. Soo Crono ya have to give me the low down from an actual newbie owner on how that thing actualy performs packed behind a brushless.. Ya knwo kinda newbie to newbie thing... LOL..

[crono man]

Originally posted by BIGDADDYV
Now I am envious.... I have to wait to get my brushless till the end of next month.. Soo Crono ya have to give me the low down from an actual newbie owner on how that thing actualy performs packed behind a brushless.. Ya knwo kinda newbie to newbie thing... LOL..

no problem it doesnt get anymore newbie then me in the world of touring cars!! ill keep you posted for sure:)
(but consedring the novak is really fast in my xxx buggy with 6cells i can only imagine how fast its going to be with 7cells and the 6.5 final drive ratio that novaks recommend for TC applications in a tc3)

[NewToNitro]

Hey guys i need some major setup help. The track i run on is fairly open, your WOT most of the time. They treat it with sugar water on race day so theres a fair amount of traction. I was out there to practice today(no sugar water) and the rear of the car was all over the place. I was told to run the bumpy track setting but with blue springs in the rear...no go. What do i need to change? What should my ride height be? What should my shock position/oil/spring set up be? Im a total newbie to electric touring cars.

[FSU427P]

Before getting into a complete suspension setup plan, what kind of tires are you running? If you say the track is being treated and cleaned thoroughly, you should think about a good set of foams. I know some tracks outlaw foams for racing, but if you can use them, why not? If no on the foams, run the factory position settings (from the manual) and go with very subtle adjustments from there. Make sure you don't adjust everything at once, just go with one thing at a time and see what kind of difference that makes. Eventually by doing that you will grasp everything you need to know. You might also want to ask your racing buddies around the track (if they are running TC3's too) what their setups are. Pay attention to who is hooked up on the track and steel their setup!

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by FSU427P
Before getting into a complete suspension setup plan, what kind of tires are you running? If you say the track is being treated and cleaned thoroughly, you should think about a good set of foams. I know some tracks outlaw foams for racing, but if you can use them, why not? If no on the foams, run the factory position settings (from the manual) and go with very subtle adjustments from there. Make sure you don't adjust everything at once, just go with one thing at a time and see what kind of difference that makes. Eventually by doing that you will grasp everything you need to know. You might also want to ask your racing buddies around the track (if they are running TC3's too) what their setups are. Pay attention to who is hooked up on the track and steel their setup!

I run take off premounted tires...as does everyone else :) Im going to go back to the stock setting before i go out there tomorrow. We will see what happens.

[crono man]

hey guys anyone tried the RDLogics aluminum die-cast trans cases they look kind of sweet and there only 20$:)

[Lapster]

If it is die cast it will be very heavy.

[Kevin Boyle]

Hey Guys,



Mark Pavidis won the ROAR Mod Touring on road title for 2003. If anybody has any pictures let me know. I wish I could have gone.


Thanks
Kevin Boyle

[FSU427P]

crono man,
I have a buddy who purchased those RD logics transmission cases. From what he showed me, they were complete junk. he had to grind the interior to accomodate the diffs and he had to mill out the input shaft housings to properly fit the bearings. Otherwise nothing worked correctly. They look pretty though, and would make a nice static piece while you were'nt running your car.

[Jhstud50]

I have a TC3 RTR and I bought a Speed Gems, my spur is a 72 with a 23 pinion. What is your prediction of how fast it will go? :confused: I also have a Camelgon motor. Should I use that instead?

[gubby]

what turn/wind speed gems did you buy?

[BigBadTahoe]

I use a chameleon 2 pro in my tc3 and it is really quick and you can race it in the spec 19 turn class at a track most likely. If your speed gem is lower than 15turns then it would probably be faster than the chameleon.

[R_C_hoodlum]

I've heard that the factory aluminum CVD bone's make the torque and acceleration better than with the composite ones in the kit, cause i broke one and im trying decide if I should just get the composite ones or the aluminum ones. If that is true is there actually a noticable difference in the torque and acceleration? IS it worth paying 20$ for 2 aluminum ones or just getting the composite ones for $10 for all four?. :confused:

[Grizzbob]

No, don't waste your money. I started out with the aluminum ones, & after I broke one, I decided to try the composite ones. There was NO significant difference in how the car ran(if anything, the composite ones are lighter, so they might accelerate better than the aluminum), & I also noticed that the composites hold up just as well as the aluminum ones, too(learned this from using a front one-way, in a crash those things can scrap CVD bones fast, & the aluminum ones break just as easily as composites). So they don't work any better than composites & they cost a LOT more, so I personally would rather spend $10 for 4 of them than over $20 for 2....:cool:

[FSU427P]

Personally, I don't like the composite OR the Factory blue aluminum CVD bones. They both break under maximum stress conditions. I went with the IRS beefy "shiny" steel CVD bones. They are twice the diameter of the aluminum CVD's and made out of steel rather than aluminum. The shiny finish on the outside prevents rust, and they can take anything you throw at them. I don't know if they are still made, and IRS' website is down right now, but I love them, and I'll never have to replace them.

[UrbanCowboy]

Hey -

I'm trying to get into racing at the local carpet track. So far I've gone to practice twice. Anyway, my car seams kinda loud when It's running. One of the employees mentioned it as well and commented that usually the noise is a loose gear mesh. However, when he looked at it, he said that didn't seam to be a problem. Although he commented that the really good racer's cars make little noise, he did not offer any other suggestions on why my TC3 is being so noisy. Asode from the gear mesh, what other components should I check for improper alignment/friction that might make the car noisier and potentially slower as a result? Thanks.

[FSU427P]

If your gear mesh is fine, move on to the diffs and check for any dirt that may have gotten inside the cases. In your situation, since you run primarily on carpet, check for any carpet fibers that may have lodged themselves inside your diff cases. If ll of that seems fine, move on to your bearings. Check the bearings on the input shafts, the diff housings, and the c-hub/rear hub carriers.
If all of that seems fine, it could be natural noise from your motor. Some motors are louder than others. That's all I can think of.

[LearjetMinako]

I have just recently bought a D5 and Monster Horsepower (stock) motor. Trying to get my TC3 2 seconds faster in the stock class. Have any of you guys run the D5 motor yet. Its a 12 turn by the way. And what pinion size gear should I use for it, the smallest one I got right now is 18 t.

Any tips on how to get the TC3 2 seconds faster in the stock class. I've currently changed to a GP3300 battery pack and a Monster Horsepower Pro from the P2K2 Pro.

[DualBL]

I'm a little late, but did someone say Rally/Brushless?:D
http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/files/images/tc35.JPG
http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/files/images/tc312.jpg
:p

i have pushed my tc3 to the limit...
nothing signifigant, just shock towers, motor mounts, center shafts, front and rear arms, one main chassis, and more CVD's than I'd like to say:rolleyes:
but, I do run my cars harder than most.
I got some titanium CVD's that I'm gonna try soon, and see if that works...
I got a 5300 motor that I have run on 12 cells...
but with the rear spool i have in it, I break aluminum cvd's on 6 cells.
I've also thrashed MIP Steel CVD's, and decieded to go to Titanium, since I don't think anything else would be able to handle the abuse (broke the MIP Steels in less than one full battery pack)

and to think, I'm thinking of ways to push my tc3 harder every day:cool:

oh yeah, more pics of my tc3 at www.brushless.owns.it ;)

[RCAttack]

I beleive it's time to upgrade from my trusty old Tamiya TL-01 & have decided a TC3 is the way to go. So I want to know the cheapest shop on the net to buy from.n Where do you guys buy from.

Cheers Brad

[groovesafe]

i've bought a Racer on ebay for 80, and a Factory team for 180, so ebay is the best bet..

[LearjetMinako]

I just got my order in with the D5 motor, and boy what a motor. I now have a nickname for my TC3, "Bottle Rocket". This motor is unbeliveble fast. I must have been topping off in the near 40's MPH. But a draw back is that it heats up fast along with the ESC. So one battery pack with a 5 min cooling period will have to do. I'll be testing that stock motor (Monster Horsepower) on Sat. or Tue. race day. I wonder if I can hit 50 MPH:D

[hyperstang]

What is the update on the brushless in the TC3. I have my brushless on its way and I have a TC3 racer and how the power in the TC3...

Race on..

[Mustang/Chevy Killer]

well i'm not sure if i wanna buy the tc3 rtr or to get the team version and go from there. i've been into rc for about 3 and 1/2 years and i have 2 rtr's, 1 kit car, adn 2 used ones so going either way would'nt bother me. has anyone purchased the rtr version? if so please fill me in on how it performs. also money isn't a problem so thanks for your time, steve

[hyperstang]

Well,

If money is no problem, I suggest getting the team version, that would come with eveything you need to be competitive. Also you get to put the kit together. Although there are a couple of versions out there of the TC3, get the one that would include pretty much eveything.

On top of that kit, spend about 220.00 more and get the brushless motor for you TC3. The TC3 is, in my opinion, one of the best on road electric cars that I have come across in years. I have been in RC for about 15 years and Associated has come a long way. I even have the Nitro TC3 and placing A main at the tracks. Its a great car for tweaking and real easy to do. After reading the competition between the 3 shaft driven cars in RCCA and the TC3 took it big time, that just made my decision even easier to get the TC3....

BUT MONEY IS NO PROBLEM FOR YOU....GET THE TAMIYA SURIKARN SPECIAL EDITION ALONG WITH A BRUSHLESS NOVAK SS and then come back to the board and say money is no problem....WOW 400.00+ FOR A ROLLING CHASSIS...aaaa

C'MON!!!!

Race on...

[Mustang/Chevy Killer]

well i eventually wanted to get the tc3 rtr and then upgrade as i went. but i think i'm gonna buy the racer kit and go from there. talk to you later, steve

[LearjetMinako]

You might want to reconsider on the racer version. I've found myself upgrading to the Factory Team version from a Racer version. Plus the tire that come with the racer won't quite do the trick for racing unless you're running on concerte. It might be a hole in the pocket to buy, but its well worth it with all the best and lightweight parts on the Team Factory. I just about maxed out the capabilties of my TC3 in the stock class. And I still need to push harder to become a 1 second per lap faster. If I make a 2 second per lap faster time, I might just be able to pull in through the pack by chance. Those Team Factory TC3's are really something to challenge with. I'm holding off from purchasing a new TF TC3, because I want to see if AE is coming out with a TC4!?

[Grizzbob]

Well, I don't really think we'll see an official TC4, but it is possible that Associated will introduce some more running changes in the next several months(like possibly integrating the battery compartment mod, redesigning the front shock tower & maybe offering a front spool of their own).......:cool:

[crono man]

hey guys couple of questions about the team tc3

1.is the composite shaft better then the aluminum shaft(i will be putting my novak bl in there)?

2.do the team cars still come with the composite shaft

thanks

[FSU427P]

If you can find an older kit, such as 2002 or older, then you will get the carbon shaft with it. Otherwise, every car now comes with the aluminum shaft, which is better for your brushless setup.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

What do you guys think about the IRS Spool against the Associated or the Yokomo one-way? I tested both tonight and feel the spool is better on any track offering the best of both worlds. Maybe it's just me, but the Yokomo one-way seems awkward to drive with even on an open parking lot.

[FSU427P]

I'm not too fond of the Yokomo or Associated one-way's. I do like the IRS spool, because it doesn't give up too much of the original driveability of the car. I frequently change between the IRS spool and the lightweight Associated diffs, depending on track conditions.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

how fast would this car go with a 9t speedgems... im a speed seeker..

[LearjetMinako]

My guess on how fast the TC3 will go with a speedgem 9t, is around 45-50 + mph.

I've just recently found out that Oklahoma hot roads and high speeds will sheard the Pro-line V-rage tires. I've lost control of the TC3 and smashed it into the curb. But luck was on my side. One stripped servo gear (had a spare from another broken servo) and one broken rear hud (luckley that was not the first time that broke before, had a spare for that too). But now I'm looking for a hard compound tire that can stand up to 140+ degrees F.

[FSU427P]

Aside from stock motor applications, the V-rage tires will not hold up to anything. For those hot summer days (without tornado's in Oklahoma!!), use Take Off CS-32R or CS-37R tires. You can get them mounted on rims (dish or mesh) for a little less than $40 for a set of 4. A set of those should last you a pretty long time, even if you are racing with a good modified motor and a lot of speed.

[Grizzbob]

Yeah, Take Off's are good tires to go with(especially since they can be bought premounted, very good deal), & I'd also consider HPI's treaded tires(see if you can find them in their 36R compound, should work well in the heat). I know what you mean about the Oklahoma heat, that's why I don't like to race outside anymore(especially since we have indoor tracks in both Tulsa & OKC), & ProLine's tires, while sometimes well suited to certain conditions on pavement, ALWAYS wear out quickly. If they don't shred, they just harden as they heat up & cool down(like what happens to full scale tires when they heat cycle them, it hardens the rubber) so they're grip goes away pretty fast.....:cool:

[RodneyRacer]

does anybody know who does chassis milling for a TC3

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I don't know anyone who will do it FOR YOU but I milled out my chasis on a vertical mill. The usual, batteries closer and made the motor hole bigger. I can do it for a fee I suppose. PM me if interested.

FYI: Warp Speed sells a CF chasis with the battery slots moved closer.

[hyperstang]

Here are some pics of my new NOVAK SS in my soon completed TC3. Also running Sorex 40's all around

[BL10T]

Hi all,

I have a mild problem with my TC3 and maybe someone in here can help. I love the kit, first of all. But I have never been able to get the gearboxes to be as free and smooth as I'd like. I suspect that the gears hit the diff cases a little, especially in the rear. I suspected that the tolerances were just not quite good enough. I even bought the RD Logics aluminum gearboxes which just made the problem worse. The problems is not really too bad, just a bit of clicking when the gears mesh.

As for solutions, I have heard of guys dremeling out the insides of gearboxes or, more simply, adding or removing shims from the input shafts. I know it is possible to get the car very free with a little work. Or will it just wear in?

Does anyone have any advice or experience with this.

Thanks in advance,

JC

[crono man]

anybody know the weight difference between the FTTC3 and the TEAM tc3?

[FSU427P]

BL10T,
Shiming the input shafts does work well. You will also want to ream out the outdrive and input holes on the diff cases.


crono man,
Take all of the composite-plastic parts from your team kit and weigh them next to a full Factory Team graphite components set. You'll see just by that how much of an advantage the Factory Team kit has over your Team kit in terms of weight. You should be able to find a full graphite component set online for a decent price.

[crono man]

anybody know of a complete article(s) about all little tricks and tips about the tc3?(i.e how to build the car without having the tranny bind etc..)

[BL10T]

Hey Crono Man:

I second that. The TC3 is a fantastic car in nearly every respect. My only two complaints are that the gearboxes bind slightly due to the fit of the gearbox halves, and second, the front steering blocks (where the ball joints on top are) are too easily stripped out following minor collisions. On the first point, I have heard stories about TC3s where the wheels just spin forever following a tweak here and there. I've never seen one, however. Most are like mine...just good enough. I have even considered buying another TC if I could find one with tighter tolerances. I want precision before I throw my BL gear into it.

Aside from that I like everything about the kit. The car is very solid. I also like that it can take seven cells up the side, which is good for us brushless guys, right? I'll post pictures of mine soon. I just added the blue center shaft and Hardcore Racing input cups. Nice quality that Hardcore stuff.

By the way, the RD Logics aluminum gearboxes are a nightmare. They bind worse than the stock plastic ones. I spoke to the RD Logics staff and they know that it is a problem. They suggest removing some of the paint/coating from the surfaces where the bearings sit and experimenting with the input shaft shims. I am going to mess with them when I have time.

JC

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I don't see a need for aluminum diff cases. I've never had any of the composite ones damaged.

I too have heard of a few guys who have TC3s that roll SUPER smooth. Anyone have a guide to doing that?

[BL10T]

Audi TT:

I am working on my TC3 to see if I can't make it super smooth. I started by replacing some of the parts. I added an aluminum spur gear hub, Hardcore input shaft cups, the AE aluminum shaft, and I tried the RD Logics gearboxes which were a nightmare. The key seems to be shimming the input shafts just right, and to also mill out the gearboxes a bit. I wonder if the pros do any of this?

Here's my TC3.

[crono man]

my friend is nuts he wants to run his FTTC3 on 7cells with the novak bl on a carpet track!!
can you say fishtailing!:D

one question guys
did you keep your alumunum screws all around?

[BL10T]

Crono Man:

Is the Novak that powerful that 7 cells will cause spinouts, etc. I thought it was equivalent to a 17-turn mod.

As for the aluminum screws, I use them in the non load bearing places--servo mounts, gearboxes, etc.--and I don't use any on the bottom of the chassis. If you run on asphalt, the screws can get pretty torn up. Use two alum. and one steel to mount the shocktowers, and the same for the 4 braces. That's what I do.

JC

[FSU427P]

The novak BL is equivalent to a 10 turn mod.
I got my TC3 to be super smooth by shimming the input shaft areas. I also added IRS lightweight input shafts, drive cups, and main shaft, as well as a bearing set from ACER. I also have drive pins on the outdrives to protect them (they really work well).

If I can I will upload some pictures of my car later. It has the full IRS CF chassis conversion on board, including the side braces and transponder mount. It is about half the weight of a Factory Team car, but I have lead weights in certain places to maintain proper driving characteristics.

[crono man]

thanks for all the respenses guys

the novak is equal to a 10t motor but with gobs of torque and thats with 6cells(i have it in my xxx buggy)

i can only imagine the torque this thing produces with 7cells!(i think it will equal a 8 or 9 motor but with way more torque)

[BL10T]

FSU427P:

So you shimmed the input shafts, eh? Did you start with the manual's recommended number of shims, front and rear, and then experiment by adding them or taking them away?

I take it you didn't modify the actual gear boxes themselves?

I too added some of the aluminum goodies to mine--shaft, shaft cups, spur hub. Its funny, now that I have an aluminum shaft riding on aluminum input cups from Hardcore racing, the car makes a metalic "tink" sound when the shaft spins slowly. I wonder if it will sound like powered up.

Crono Man:

I am glad to hear that the Novak is that fast. I wonder how it compares to my Hacker Competition/Lehner 5300 on 6-7 cells? If it is similar, I'll definitely get one for the TC3. If the Novak BL is that fast, imagine the ones in development.

JC

[BL10T]

My TC3 just said something. "I want a Novak BL"

Seriously, the front does kinda look like a face?

Sexy body posts, eh?

JC

[crono man]

BL10T

is that the lotus elise from hpi?
man those bodies are really sexy!

about the bl im pretty sure your lehner would be a little bit faster then the novak.
the novak strong point is its smooth power curve

[FSU427P]

BL10T,
Yes, I did start with the factory settings for shims, but the lightweight input shafts from IRS are slightly different, so they require more shims to operate properly. That coupled with the acer bearings freed up the drive train a lot.
Everybody seems to have problems with the diff outdrives rubbing the transmission cases, but I never had that problem. I guess my cases came out good from the factory. BTW, nice Motorsport Elise body.

[BL10T]

Thanks guys,

I am going to order a couple of extra gearboxes and mess around with shims. Maybe I'll get lucky.

The body is an HPI 190mm Lotus Elise that I painted up with one simple color to actually run. I would eventually like to put a Tamiya body on it because they have the best detail.

The front is so low on the Elise that I had to move the front shocks inward on the shock tower or they'd hit. Here's another foto.

JC

[Southern_Pride]

i was wonderinif anyone tried the rally conersion kit yet. im gettin a tc3 soon and i was wonderin how good it werked

[FSU427P]

I have a friend who has the rally kit installed on his TC3. It seems to work very well, especially in mild offroad conditions. With shaft drive, there is no need to worry about pebbles or rocks jamming up the drive train. Ground clearance is an issue though. Just make sure you don't take it into heavy off road conditions and you'll be fine. It eats up small gravel tracks with ease. With a brushless, it would be a rock throwing rooster-tail monster!

One of the unforseen benefits of the rally kit is that it takes the width of the car from 190mm to 200mm, so if you keep the rally kit installed and lower it back to street specs, you can put on all of those wonderful 200mm bodies that you love but could never have because so many companies focus their best bodies for the 200mm market when you only had a 190mm car. Good luck!

[Southern_Pride]

sweet. just how much is the novak brushless system. is it any good or should i get a hacker.if i need more ground clearance ill get super nitro rally wheels and tires

[crono man]

anybody using the hpi offset wheels?

does it make the car more stable and is it noticeable?

are they legal?

i wanted to use the hpi wheels + the included 2mm to get 200mm and use the new 350z nismo body!

[rcsk8er]

I have been looking for a set-up sheet for the tc3 for a long time. For concrete that is. I was wandering if anyone could post a ling or send me one in an e-mail. Here is my e-mail rc4eva@cox.net. Thanks guys

[DualBL]

get the rally kit

http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/files/images/tc35.JPG

also, I don't think you should put in a hacker, the novak will be just fine.

also, those are SNR tires, they won't fit, when it's 190mm, so you'll need the 200mm arms to use them.

also, be sure to make something to make sure rocks don't get jammed in the steering rack ;)

[Southern_Pride]

is that how high it sits with the rally kit. if it is i dont think i want one no more. all we have around here is sand and mud. id have to get it unstuck every 30 seconds

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im a basher, how is the driving handling different from a racer vs ft tc3

[mtrsprt]

Just ordered a Trinty P-94 8T double for my TC3 and a Novak super rooster ESC. With correct gearing and a 6C 2400mah battery, what could I see for straight line speeds? 35-40mph? Or possibly more?

Cory

[crono man]

Anyone has any info on this 2speed transmission for the tc3?
the only things i know is that its made in japan and costs 150$

[crono man]

another pic

[LearjetMinako]

mtrsprt: You'll probably be hitting speeds of 45 to 55 mph. With a Trinity D5 12t single, I can hit 40 mph and thats on a 72/24 gear ratio (recommended size for this motor was 22t). Some advice that I learnt the hard way. get rid of the Tamyia plugs, they will have melt down after a few good runs. Ditched mine and bought and installed Deans Ultra Plugs. They work and stay cool enough to touch.

Crono Man: Where did you find a pic of tc3 with a two speed installed in it. And isn't the motor mount supost to be on the other side of the car?

[mtrsprt]

Learjet, I do have about 8 pair of Deans Ultra connectors in the mail :-)

[crono man]

its a shop in japan i think it requires a special chassis,i emailed them but no response!

heres the link
http://www.raijin.com/crest/

good luck with the translation:D

[LearjetMinako]

That tc3 is a fully graphite version. The whole kit cost's 38,000 yen (318 dollors and 55 cents US). Its really nice, plus the two speed that comes with it is a special feature and you are right, it looks like it does require a special chassis. I can't really translate too much of the language. But I can understand a few things when it is spoken to me.

Hint: Learjet(Minako)-That is the japanese name that I used to name my R/C aircraft prototype.

[LearjetMinako]

Got through translating the web site, but I found another web site that could do the job for me. Use this web site to translate the japanese web site.

Language Translater (http://babelfish.altavista.com/)

[hyperstang]

Wow...

That looks nutzzz. I wonder when it will be available in the US, if it aint already????

Race on...

[hyperstang]

Guys...

I just installed my brusless by Novak in my TC3 and I have installed a 96T spurgear with a 32T pinion to try to meet the requirements of the ratio that Novak recomends. But when I got it installed, it wasn't all that fast in my TC3. I followed specs, adjusted my controller and set the ESC to stage 4. Now my friend has a Surikarn Tamiya Evolution III and this thing rips like crazy.

Now is it because of the Carbon Graphite light weight chassis on the evolution that makes this car fly and mine not. Should I invest in maybe the IRS chassis or the warpspeed one...

What do all of you think??

Race on...

[crono man]

couple question for guys running on carpet tracks

1)are the pro-line V-rage anygood for carpet(the ones included with the team car)

2)are roll bars necessary for carpet tracks?

thanks:)

[Grizzbob]

Hyperstang, I don't know why your car isn't as fast as you'd like, but I don't think it has anything to do with the kind of chassis you have, the molded plastic one is just as light as any carbon-fiber one, so I wouldn't waste my money on that if I were you(unless you just really want to)....And Crono man, to answer your questions, 1. No, V-Rages don't work well on carpet, so I'd recommend you try some others, like Take-Off's compounds(I'd try maybe some CS-27's in front & CS-22's rear with the inserts that come with them), & 2. Sway bars(also known as roll bars) aren't always neccessary, but it never hurts to have a couple of them, in case you start having to deal with traction rolls....:cool:

[FSU427P]

Agreed,
Sway bars are just like front one-ways. It's a tuning option, not a hop-up. I usually run a rear sway bar and no front sway bar on tight tracks and both front and rear sway bars on long, flowing tracks. Thickness depends on the severity and duration of the turns. The longer the turns on the track, the more stability you want, henge a larger sway bar. Usually the stock factory team bars work fine though.

[hyperstang]

Thanks Grizzbob...
I think its my pinion/spur ratio. Must be way off...

I'll keep trying to see this full potential of the NOVAK SS BRUSHLESS..

Race on..

[NewToNitro]

My TC3 racer was making a weird clicking noise when i rolled it. I took a look at the front diff and found that the gears are chewed up..what would cause this?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/pa4a9e7f29f986eb0f74bf63744c7202d/fb8e83c5.jpg

[FSU427P]

There's only one thing that will cause your diffs to come out of the cases looing like that; dirt. It's not easy for dirt to get inside the cases, but if it does, it reeks havok on the gears, hence your clicking and grinded gears. Clean out the cases, replace the old gears with the new yellow/white gears (they are supposed to be better than the original gears that you have), and put plenty of diff grease in there. You should be fine after that.

[NewToNitro]

Ok cool thanks. The tracks is extremely sandy for some reason. After a few packs the steering slider barely moves. :(

[FSU427P]

Your welcome.
If you go to associateds web site, they have instructions for covering the steering rack to protect it from debris.

[hyperstang]

Well,
The brushless is going to Novak to be looked at. It seems that my ESC is set to a limited setting and I can't get it out to reprogram my controller.

Kinda dissappointed...but this happens..

Race on...

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Anyone have any experience with the steel outdrives? After melting 4-5 of the plastic ones in mod class, I went with a steel set in the back.

I'm encountering a few issues with the little plastic lock nut holder that holds the nut in place. The ears keep breaking off those things no matter how I tighten them. Yes I know they are assembled differently than the plastic ones (heck, for once I even followed the manual).

Anyone have a remedy for that?

As for the white/ivory colored bevels for the diff, I actually don't like them very much. I believe they are made of a very brittle plastic, delrin, which I chipped a few times as I inspected them. I found a few sets of the black plastic ones and went back to them.

As for the steering rack debris problem, Associated actually makes a cover for the TC3 that covers the rack completely. It is much nicer than the template on their site as this one is moulded. Although I never needed one as the track I run on is cleaned and conditioned periodically. Associated Part #3857

[FSU427P]

I have the steel outdrives, front and drear. I love them. I've never broken the plastic nut though.

[groovesafe]

need some help from you guys - whats the difference between using Diffs, or a front spool on your TC3? what are the pros and cons of them...

thanks,
steve

[crono man]

have you guys ever had problems with the composite outdrive included with the FTTC3?

Do you guys think i should change them to aluminum outdrives if i will be running my novak brushless?(its like 10t motor but with a bit more torque)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im looking at a tc3 racer, i dont have a large budget, but i plan to mainly bash and occasionally race at my local track. I dont plan on winning or anything but just to join in on racing and haveing fun. Is the tc3 racer good enough?? please share opinions. btw, i do NOT plan to upgrade.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

The Novak brushless will totally melt and strip the D on the inside cup of the outdrives. I run 11 turn Ti's and have upgraded to the steel outdrive in the back and I usually run the IRS spool in the front.

FSU427P: You've never had problems with the plastic nut holder? Plenty of guys at the track have crushed those things just from tightening the diff. This seems common in HPI cars too.

[FSU427P]

AudiTT,
Yeah I've never broken the nut. I guess I've just been lucky since you guys are having so many problems.

[Grizzbob]

That's odd, I've never had a problem with my diffs either(including that nut holder), though I've only been using the plastic outdrives for about 3 or 4 months(I used the aftermarket aluminum ones for quite some time). Though keep in mind that I don't run mod very often(it's just not that popular here, not often enough guys to have the class, so we run stock instead), so I may not've put that much stress on my diffs yet......:cool:

[crono man]

which outdrives are better the IRS or Hardcoreracing ones?

Also those IRS pin cushion are supposed to replace the pins on the ends of the cvd dogbones right?...so i have to press out the old pins on my cvds,is that hard to do on aluminum cvds?

[FSU427P]

I like the IRS outdrives better. The hardcore outdrives are a bit heavier.

[cheerwhiner]

what battery pack would you all recommend for the rtr version? I want one pack to race with and another cheaper one to just play around with. Thanks.

[FSU427P]

2400's are good to practice with. Team orion sells them in packages of 2 for around $40. They're called Maxx packs because they were meant for the e-maxx, hence the packaging of 2, but they work great for practice packs in other cars.

For the actual race, go with nothing but the best. This will ensure that you have peak performance throughout the race. Get some gp 3300's from either trinity or reedy and you will be set for your race. If you get 2-3 packs (either assembled or in cells), that should do fine for a race day.

[LearjetMinako]

I use three different battery packs

1. Dynomite Super-Sport 1800 NiCad (just used for testing)
2. (3) Trinity Zip-Metal 2500 NiMH (use these ones for racing and for longer testing, I only use these for back-up if I can't get the matched charged up in time. They provide around 5min. of run time on a stock motor.)
3. GP 3300 Matched cells NiMH (I use this battery pack for the main event and racing. And I only use this battery pack on mod motors.)

[cheerwhiner]

thanks guys. all of those would work fine with the Pirhanna Digital peak detection charger right?

[FSU427P]

yes yes, and yes.

[nitrodude_1]

BL10T looking back on the post in section 7 why u use such a simple colour. My first body I painted was awsome and all I used was a jiffy pen and some masking tape a nife and 2 cans of paint. I will get pics it is for my rc10gt but I wana ask how fast dose all your tc3 go I wana get one a nitro but want to get it fast. I have money but there is also the shumacher rtr 80+mph out of the box:D

[LearjetMinako]

My TC3 tops off at 50 MPH. The TC3 has the abilty to surpass 80 MPH with a little work and tweaking. :cool:

[BL10T]

To nitrodude_1

You asked why I painted the Lotus body such a simple color and also how fast my TC3 goes. Well, I decided to make it simple because I want to run this body without worrying about crashing it. I have other bodies, like my Tamiya Kure Nismo Skyline GT-R body (look in Tamiya bodies thread in painting and detailing) where I actually took a lot of time to detail it, but its for display only. I have my RC10T bodies to paint next. I'll do a simple one and a fancy one for display.

As for how fast the TC3 goes, I have some so-so 6-cell nicads, a Cyclone TC2, and a Speed Gems 2 9T double installed. When the motor was brand new I suspect that I could hit around 40 mph. However, as the brushes have worn a bit and the comm gets out of true (I don't do much motor maintenance) I suspect I have already lost some speed. This is why I am a big believer in brushless motors. I am going to eventually put a BL in the TC3 but my RC10T BL project has been a money pit. With a Hacker Master Competition and a Lehner 5300 on 7 cells I'd be willing to wager that I could push almost 50 mph. The 10T does close to 40 on 6 cells and it is big and heavy.

JC

[nitrodude_1]

sorry though it was nitro

[OneQuickGT1]

I'll have my TC3 RTR in a few days, and was wondering where the best place to find hop ups would be? I am new to the hobby and would appreciate some help!

Brett

[OneQuickGT1]

Also, what size bodies can be used on the TC3?

Thanks,
BTL

[Grizzbob]

Well, you should have no trouble finding lots of hop-ups at your local hobby shops(especially in the US), and as for bodies, any 190mm wide touring car bodies will fit just fine(& you could use 200mm ones if you use different offset wheels & don't mind them looking a bit recessed in the wheelwells).....:cool:

[MATT3167]

I'm about to buy a tc3 anyone know anywere good to go and what better side or rear exhaust whats the difference.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Wrong forum. You want the NITRO TC3 Forum.

But, I've driven both a side and rear exhaust TC3 and there isn't any difference. Some claim that the rear exhaust is cleaner but I found it to be the same.

[Shady]

well i got my TC3, was a used racer kit, getting a Stratus 2.0 body to use for racing, what are some parts i should look at getting or spares i might need or hop ups that would be smart to get

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Hmm, anyone have any tips for running the rear shock tower in the front? I tried it today and I was understeering alot so I tried to compensate for it with 3 degrees of toe out and 2 degrees of camber in the front, but it didn't help much.

[Dyingslow]

I'm hoping all the experts on this forum can help me save some money... I have a realtively stock TC3 that I would like to improve. I problem, is that I do not know what hop ups are legitimate hop ups and what modifications actually hurt performance. Any advise? For example, does it make sense to switch to the aluminum drive cups whenthe plastic cups are showing no signs of wear. I can't imagine the weight being too much different between the two. How about running a spool on a very loose track? Plastic drive cups verses the aluminum (and if aluminum which one of the many out there have you experienced the least problems with)? IRS graphtie chassis or milled out "stock" graphite? etc... anything you guys can add I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you... Dyingslow

[FSU427P]

In my experience with the TC3, the car adjusts very well to many different types of hop up options. Things such as spools, sway bars, and different chassis combinations are tuning options, not hop ups, and should be done per the track you are running on. You say that you are running on a very loose track, so a spool might help a little. You might also wish to add sway bars for added traction.
My TC3 is hopped up to the teeth. We're talking a full IRS chassis and driveline converson, aluminum outdrives, the works. I love the way my car runs, and adding all of those hop ups really did improve the way the car drives. The IRS chassis has no flex, especially with the extra side braces added, and the aluminum drive cups added with the aluminum outdrives and drive pins, as well as the lightweight input shafts, make the driveline bullit proof. I also added a set of acer bearings, which in my opinion, out perform the Associated teflon set (both sets are around $120). It's up to you on which options you will go with, but most will work well with the performance of the TC3. Try to stay away from cheezy aluminum bits such as a-arms, C-hubs, and shock towers. The factory carbon parts are all you need in that department

[cheerwhiner]

is this car metric or SAE??

[AudiTT-Quattro]

SAE

[cheerwhiner]

thanks, again I am getting tools ready that I already have so I don't buy more than I need with the car ;)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im planning to buy and build a tc3 racer for mainly bashing and some racing once in a while. while building are there any tips or hints for me so that i do not have to go back and correct and error... etc ?

[FSU427P]

Get a nice set of hex drivers.

[LearjetMinako]

I have a quick question about anti-roll bars. Can setting the droop on the suspension affect how anto-roll bars do their jobs?

[FSU427P]

Yes.
If you set the droop to be lower, than the roll bars will be under a greater load, and they will be much more active. The opposite is the case when you set the droop higher.

[LearjetMinako]

Opps, so then my hunch was right. I was just racing with dead weight on my car. Thank You:)

[crono man]

well i posted this question in the electric forum but i think you guys are better at answering it..

Budget is too tight right now so im going have to get a "budget" TC i was thinking about a tc3 "racer" but just a few concerns

1.will the stock steel turnbuckles hold up?or are they so cheap that i shoulndt even bother with them?

2.will the composite cvd last?

3.are the plastic vcs shocks anygood?

i will be putting my novak bl in there(its like a 10t motor with a bit more torque)

im only looking for something to race against my buds novak bl equipped tc3 on the interior carpet track and the occasional race against others(if they allow me:D )

[LearjetMinako]

The steel turnbuckles are ok. They haven't really given me any really problems other them trying to rust on the ice covered snow. As for the compsite CVD's, yes they do last a long time. Mime are still orginal from the first kit version. And they hold up to a D5 t12 motor while drifting (a lot of drifting, I'm a drifting kinda guy:D ). As for the shocks. A lot of guys really don't like them. I personally really don't care about shocks as long as they do their jobs. Most everybody has the Factory Team shocks installed (the ones with the adujustable screw so you don't have use shock clips again). As for the Novak Brushless, never owned one. I'll let the guys/gals on the board answer that one.:cool:

[Grizzbob]

Well, I can't comment on the Novak Brushless system(have NO experience with them), but if they really are on par with a 10 turn motor then you'll be fine. I've run 10 tunr motors in mine many times, & that includes using the composite CVD's & molded plastic diff outdrives(when using the IRS Pin Cushions, I've seen little to no wear on the outdrive cups). The only time I've had any durability problem in that area is when I was using a front one-way(which is by nature a lot harder on drivetrain components, I've broken both composite & aluminum CVD's running a one-way). As for the turnbuckles, you should have no problems with durability there, I'm sure they'll hold up fine(though the titanium ones are a bit lighter, that's the only notable advantage I see, I've never bent or broken a turnbuckle in onroad racing). And the plastic shocks should be ok to start, though perhaps the aluminum ones might be a tick smoother(& if you decide to go to an aluminum shock, you may as well get the threaded ones, they're just TOO convenient to ignore, but if money's tight you can wait on that).......:cool:

[crono man]

Grizzbob and Learjetminako thanks for the info glad to hear that i wont have to break the bank in order to injoy a little bit of racing this winter:)

[Grizzbob]

No prob, that's a big part of why I've stuck with my TC3 for so long(I bought mine over 3 1/2 years ago, & it's still my best car), I've been into TC's for about 7 years now, & this is the only car I've ever had that could remain so competitive for so long. I've gotten much MORE than my money's worth out of it.....:D

[FSU427P]

I agree with that statement. It seems that the tunability of the TC3 is nothing short of endless. No matter what condition, whether racing, bashing, or sitting and looking pretty on your shelf, the TC3 can handle the job!

[Shady]

well after my first touring car race ever i am very pleased, TQ'ed and won :D

[NTC3Fan]

Hey Guys.. been out of R/C for awhile (raining and crappy weather) So my TC3,NTC3,Impact has to be static models so long :P

Anything new for the TC3??
Hows everyones going......
Shaft drive Rocks!!!!!

Has anyone got those aftermarket chassis??
Whats ur impression on them?

[FSU427P]

I have a complete IRS chassis conversion on on my TC3. It even has the side braces that give the car it's original "tub" effect, so the car is completely flex free. I love it so far, and it's friggin' light! With sway bars added, the car becomes a point and shoot affair on my local track.

[Signguy]

I've started looking over my TC3, getting it ready for the fall indoor season, and I've just realized that I've totally cooked my rear outdrives. I mean, the diff rings are melted completely into the face of the outdrive. During my last race of the season, I broke a front CVD, but ran about 3/4 of a lap before it was evident, so I'm thinking that's what caused this.

I'm wondering what anyone's suggestions would be for replacement parts. The car is an essentially stock Racer kit, foam tires, raced on a carpet track. The motor is a P2K. Should I stick with the molded outdrives, or is an upgrade worthwhile.?

Any input would be appreciated!

[FSU427P]

IRS and Hardcore both produce aluminum outdrives for the TC3, and the both are super resistant to meltdown. Te IRS outdrives will probably be lighter, however.

[reptile]

Hi i always had all types of RC i am looking for a car to race out in the front of my place and also in parking lots i am on a dead end street and it is nice just to take a car out and race there... Thing is i had belt cars before you could not run them tiny pebbles would always break belts!!! Granted my street is not the smoothest surface well what i am getting at can a TC3be raced on not so smooth and cleaned conditions?? Also will there be a new TC3soon it kind of old?? Was also thinking of the new pro 4 by HPI... Are there any major problems that plage the TC3? will the racer kit be good for an outdoor street racer car?
THANKS:)

[LearjetMinako]

The TC3 is a very stable car, heck, you said you live on a dead end street, well same here (but won't be soon, their making a street connect to it). There are no major problems with the TC3. I bought the racer version in 2000 and it has done extermely well to stand up to the test of time and abuse. I run the TC3 on roads, parking lots, at the track, on dirt, and yes, even on snow and ice. The 4wd drive makes the car very easy to keep control. I would never go with another car, this is one car to keep and to have fun driving without any worrys.

[Grizzbob]

Very true, & on the competition end of things, with the running changes they've made to it since its debut, it's still among the best you can buy, & it still wins races at ALL levels(I think I do pretty well with mine, & our local top dog also prefers the TC3). The only thing I'd worry about if I were you is if your local shops carry spare parts for it(& in the US, that means most ALL shops keep TC3 parts in stock).....:cool:

[reptile]

THANKS GUYS!!
RACER KIT ON IT'S WAY!!!:)

[DLF]

Hey guys. I've just made the plunge and ordered a FT TC3. I've been off-road racing AE electric and nitro stuff , as well as 1/8th scale for almost 15 years, but this is my first attempt at on-road of any kind. I'm very familiar with Associated products, but is there anything specific about the TC3 assembly and set-up I should know for serious racing? Thanks guys.

[reptile]

Hi will HPI bodies fit the TC3?
Also any types of offset wheels that make the TC3 200mm so i can use the HPI 200mm bodies?
:) Thanks

[LearjetMinako]

Reptile: Yes, HPI bodies will fit the TC3. Both 190mm & 200mm will work fine on the TC3. I use a HPI Skyline 200mm body on a 190mm TC3.

DLF: Set-ups depend on the track you are going to race on. All you really have to do is stick to the basic principles of racing, like "keep the weight down, lower the car, have all the heavy items on the floor of the car, ect.". As you become more intuned to your TC3, you'll know what needs to be done to make it more better. Try a guess and checK process to see how the car runs at different set-ups.

[DLF]

Just wondering. Has anyone heard of any issues of the TC3 coming with bad diff balls? I have one diff in my new kit that feels notchy and I've narrowed it down to the balls. Thanks.

[Grizzbob]

Nope, none that I know of, I have two TC3's & the diffs on both have always been buttery smooth......:cool:

[DLF]

Heh...ok, next question. Why does everyone buy the Dodge Stratus body for racing? Is that body that much more superior than the others out there?

[Grizzbob]

Well, the fashion thing is one factor, but all said the Stratus is a very neutral handling body(including the 2.0 version from Protoform which I prefer). However, right now, the new hot body has actually been the Losi(& now Protoform) Alfa Romeo body. With so many guys running front spools(which makes the car push a lot going into a corner), they're looking for more steering in other ways, including aerodynamics, & the Alfa seems to give them some of that steering back. But honestly, until you've gotten a very good feel for how your car drives(which is what I mean when I say the car "feels" good or bad), you may not notice the difference for awhile. So if you don't like the look of the Stratus, then go ahead & try something else(just make sure it has a decent rear wing, those DO help keep the car stable at speed). I frequently try a new body when they hit the shops, just because it's different, & you never know if you'll like the feel of a body until you try it(to give you an idea, I've been using the Protoform RSX for a few months now, & while I'd like a bit more rear downforce, I still like it ok, & it looks great)......:cool:

[reptile]

Well my buddy has a soupped up Tao1 or Tao2 tamiya car with a dubble deck chassis all aluminum a arms and all the hop ups you can get!
Do you think when i get my NEW TC3 RAcer i will beat him??
That's if we run the same motor..

[Grizzbob]

Hard to say, how good of a driver are you? honestly, you can take a mediocre driver with a superior car & a superior driver with a mediocre car, the better driver will likely win every time. But all things being equal(including drivers), then I'd say a TC3 will work a little better, its drive system is definitely more efficient, & it MUCH easier to set it up to handle most ANY racing surface(the old Tamiyas weren't quite so versatile, I always felt I was compromising something when running mine several years ago).....:cool:

[reptile]

:) Well i am surly a great driver been using all types of RC's nitro and electric for about 20 years!
So looks like he's going down!!!:D

[LearjetMinako]

Well, down at my LHS track. The owner set-up a new class for oval racing. Rally is the class and 4wd drive cars with mod motors are only allowed. It was the first time I got to see TC3s race on dirt ovals before, and boy, they were flying across the dirt. Almost wanted to take mine out for a spin. All the guys really do is add dirt tires to their TC3's. But it seems that no one has a good set-up for the track yet. I wished I brought my camera to show you guys/gals the race. Oh well, next Saturaday I will bring the camera along.

[reptile]

:) Team associated sells a rally conversion that makes the TC3 200mm wide..
Don't dirt and rocks screw up the gears??

[LearjetMinako]

Racer's add lexan to the openings on the bottom of the chassis. But here is a thought that I had about the tires they add. It costs close to $50 US dollors for a complete set of tires and rims. While it costs around $60 US dollors to buy the Rally conversion that includes not only tires but longer arms and longer travel to the arms. I wonder if they know that:confused: . But anyhow, I need not to worry. Because I'm not planning to race on dirt ovals any time soon, but I will keep the thought of it just in case. I'll be racing Tuesday night at LHS track (indoor/concrete).

[marcusg]

How come more people do not use foam tires on electric touring cars ? My LHS was telling me that although they do sell rubber slicks,and that foam tires are (supposed to be)for the nitro guys, he still recommends foams on all touring cars when racing. So fellas tell me the real deal on this subject.

Thanks, Marcusg

[k_sw31]

Hey guys,

I'll be picking up an FT TC3 sometime in the next few months (probably in october, once I get money selling pumpkins) for racing in the 19 turn spec class at my track. Both motors are tires are spec, so I don't need to worry about anything there, but are there any main weak points of the TC3? Is there any thing additional I should pick up?

[Kodiak31415]

:confused: Does anyone else have a problem with the shaft on their tc3 eating away at wires? I have a few flat spots on my wires from various times they have brushed againt the shaft while running. Does anyone know of a sort of cover for the shaft or a good way to keep wires away form the shaft?

[LearjetMinako]

I use tiwsty ties to keep the wires bundle together. Another one is zip ties. As for a cover for the shaft, no clue:confused: I never really expereinced this type of problem before.

[reptile]

Here she is!!
my new TC3!
Smoothest electric RC car i have ever driven!

http://photo.starblvd.net/~SWEETZ28/5-1-4.jpg

[Kodiak31415]

^
^
^

Give us some topless pics!

[reptile]

:) Here's the chassis!
http://photo.starblvd.net/~SWEETZ28/5-2-4.jpg

[aspiringrcracer710]

I just won one off of Ebay, so I'll be in and out from t