Brushless E-Maxx Picture

[Hairball]

Check this out...

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/silly1.jpg

[TC3 Benjammin]

Nice!

[Hairball]

They were glued when I started. That was about 2 minutes into the fist run. Actually, the only run.. :(

[TC3 Benjammin]

I hear the Stormer beadlocks are the way to go w/ brushless setups. :)

[Avalanche]

I've got beadlocks on my force .25 Savage, they broke on the first run. The damn thing wheelies so easy when I was coming down from a wheelie the truck wobbled a little and ended up cartwheeling a couple times. Well. the outer ring popeed 6 of the screws out and stripped the threads on the inner cup on one wheel. The next run I blew the tire off the rim. I had to go to the hardware store and buy bigger screws so they could bite into the newly stripped holes. This was not a huge high speed crash, it was 15mph at most and not very spectacular. I am ver disappointed whith them so far. They are also heavy as hell.

[TC3 Benjammin]

OK, nevermind! I guess they're crap!

lol :p

[Hairball]

I was thinking aluminum beadlocks myself. The plastic ones will just strip out (the hex is what strips) like the stock ones did.

Damn Hacker C50... :p :p

[Avalanche]

Originally posted by Hairball
I was thinking aluminum beadlocks myself. The plastic ones will just strip out (the hex is what strips) like the stock ones did.

Damn Hacker C50... :p :p


Actually, the hub is very sturdy. Its made of a very dense, hard plastic. Compared to my stock Savage wheels they are 100x better. I'm sure my wheel hit at just the right angle to put enough pressure on the ring to pop the screws. I'm plenty upset about it though. Now if they make them in aluminum that would be the way to go!!

[Hairball]

They do, but its about $160 per (4). :(

[Sledneck01]

That is sweet! I am in the process of building a brushless Emaxx as well! So far I have the Bombproof chassis! and I am going to get more stuff this weekend!

[Hairball]

Its sweet until you spend over $2000 on it, and then it breaks on the second run.. lol

[speedydave]

Well, the rims/tires were damn near the only stock part left on the truck, something had to give. ;)

[Hairball]

:D :D

[lil_general_lee]

I want to finish my brushless E-maxx - But now that I'm pondering selling it, that may never happen. I was going to go with the Lehner 1940/5 w/18120 BEC car ESC. I believe that is the most powerful system available for the E-maxx. The truck was and is built for that brushless system. Now it's just up to whatever I decide to do with it.

[Hairball]

What hop ups have you done to it? For a STRONG BL system, you really need a lot of stuff....

[Possumbot]

You don't need a completely rebuilt car, just the drivetrain, tranny, diffs, and axles. If im missing something let me know, but I think the only thing you'd really need is the drive-train upgraded.

[Hairball]

Thats what I meant.

I've seen people on the 'net bust normal CVDs, like MIP and the like. Diffs are a common thing to explode as I've read, and the stock transmission idler gears and spur gear also die as well.

What I did to my drivetrain to beef it up is this. (note, this is not cheap by any means).

SuperMaxx 7.5 Diffs
SuperMaxx Steel CVDs going from diffs to wheels
SuperMaxx Titanium center shafts
SuperMaxx Steel Idler Gears
Robinson Racing Dual Disc slipper kit

Now you know what my problem is? Wheels. I've totally stripped the hex adapter on the wheels. So, I need to find some really strong plastic rims, or upgrade to aluminum rims. The SuperMaxx Steel CVDs include a steel hex adapter to bolt the wheels on, so thats taken care of. It's the actuall wheels that aren't strong enough. :D

[Hairball]

Bye the way, thats about $550 worth of upgrades above and beyond the cost of the E-Maxx and my Hacker brushless motor system.

Crazy huh?

[lil_general_lee]

I've done some extensive drive train work. Invested over $1400 into the truck without including the BL system. A total list of hop ups include.

Associated Shocks
Atomik Woods Camo F-350 body w/home built gun rack
Bolink 8 Tooth Pinion
Back Oxide Screws (Not all have been replaced yet, but will soon)Diff shims to prevent the ring gear from "walking"
Dynamite Alloy Diff Cases (eliminate case flexing/spreading)
Dragon RC's Front and Rear Redneck Bumpers (Not on the truck yet)
Duratrax Teflon Sealed Bearings
Hitec HS-545BB Shifting Servo w/Alloy arm
Hitec HS-5945 Steering Servo
Imex Swamp Dawg tires
Imex Diamond 6 hole deep dish rims dyed black
Kimbrough Heavy Duty Servo Saver
Lundsford Titanium Tie Rods
Maximizers Ladder Bars with Integrated Skid Plate
MIP CVD's on all 4 corners
MIP Center CVD's
RRP Slipper Clutch with a 76T Plastic machined gear
Spare set of RRP Pinions
Modified RRP Hardened Diff Gears to accept 3MM screws
Modified Traxxas Front and Rear Spools to accept 3MM screws
Actual 242 Blue locktite on all "metal" screws
Traxxas Custom Milled Motor Plate
Traxxas Lightweight Input Shaft
Traxxas Aluminum Idler Gear shafts
Traxxas Titanium hinge pins
Traxxas Aluminum Pillow balls
XS3 Synthasized FM Radio

I actually rather leave the idler gears plastic so they will break before you can do more serious damage to the truck. The idler gears practically cost nothing and arn't too difficult to replace. And anyways, the slipper should be set so that it slips before they strip (But none of us do that so...) lol. Also, my truck isn't near as heavy as many other trucks. Take the tires off and I bet it doesn't weigh much more then stock :) The truck is brand new and has never been used, Just waiting on the $701 Brushless system :(

[Hairball]

The MIP CVDs WILL snap, just give them a few runs. They are kick butt CVDs for stock motor systems, but once you go brushless, you'll destroy them.

You'll blow the idlers like every other run, so its worth replacing them with the steel units. And if your slipper isn't cranked all the way down, you'll melt it rather quickly.

My Hacker C50 has enough torque to keep the tires spinning for about 3 to 5 mins while the truck is moving. Its quite funny, its hauling butt down the road, yet the tires are still not fully hooked up, you can hear them spinning on the road. :D

You harded diffs will last longer than the stock ones will, but they'll give eventually too. Unless of course, you go easy on the truck, keeping the BL motor under control. But that ruins the whole point of going brushless! :cool:

[lil_general_lee]

Well, The Lehner system is more powerful then the C50. The breaking of parts is caused by shock to the drivetrain. The drivetrain spools up a little bit before it actually makes the truck move, and thats what snaps the drive train. A lighter truck helps save the parts, And yes, Eventually stuff wears out and gets weak. I have a lot of faith in that the Robinsons will hold up. I took the time to shim them so that the spool/gear will not walk back and forth, Which greatly increases gear life. The idlers may pose a problem that I may eventually fix. Even when you go to steel idler gears 1st and 2nd gear are still the weak points. Idlers are easier to replace then 1st and 2nd gear.

[Hairball]

I guess. Removing the tranny is removing the tranny. Takes the same amount of time.

Shimming the diffs was a great idea, thats the biggest problem with the stockers. Low quality control on Traxxes's part.

[lil_general_lee]

What set up are you running in your E ? I'm guessing a Hacker C50 and Master Car Sport Controller ? Before I decided on the lehner system I was thinking of the hacker, How does it run? Looks pretty powerful. Chassis looks different too since the batts are hung below the body :) Let me know, looks like a cool truck.

[Hairball]

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/smside.jpg

Its an Xtreme Maxx chassis, very nice. :)

It runs strong as hell, and I'm still playing with the gearing. Its faster in first gear than a stock maxx will ever be in second gear. I'd say its as fast or faster than a 2.5 T-Maxx (about 45mph).

And my truck is heavy too. All that aluminum adds up quick. :) Right now its gearing 18/70 I think. Keep in mind I'm running 7.5 diffs, which are geared different from the stock diffs.

[lil_general_lee]

Thats cool, looks sweet and strong. It looks kind of like the Gorilla Maxx chassis, lol. I worry about mine being too light. With a motor that at 1500 watts is rated at something like 2+ HP it will be uncontrollable - Especially if it's basically stock weight. If you don't mind how much have you invested so far ? I like the stock body and tires, Makes for a suprise E-maxx.

[Hairball]

Those tires are trashed now. After that run you see in the picture above, the rims stripped out. So I have new ones on the way.

I've got in the neighborhood or $2200 into it so far. I REALLY need new shocks, so that'll be another $160ish.

[Promod]

When you start making real power this is what happens to an extreme chassis.

http://www.******.net/img/2977


Thank you,
Promod

[Hairball]

Please define *real power*.

It looks like someone drove the poor thing like a newb and jumped it off of a roof or something, landed directly on the rear end, and snapped the thing.

Was the chassis using aluminum center braces and the like? Or just stock plastic junk?

[Chase023]

I am just curious when you say Lehner 1940/5 w/18120 BEC car ESC is more powerful than the Hacker C50, does it mean it creates more torque, more RPM? draws more current? Can you explain? I am curious and want to know because I have no idea.

Does the Lehner 1940/5 w/18120 BEC car ESC use more cells??

please give me some info.. thanks

[Hairball]

It probably has a higher RPM. But the extra power is not worth the extra money IMO.

The Lehner system mentioned is like $600+ if I remember correctly.

My Hacker was only $430, and is close enough power wise.

[Chase023]

Hey hairball, nice E-Maxx you got there.
$2200.00 .. wow that is an expensive E-Maxx. Not bad at all hehe :D

Does the Lehner use more cells? I think the Hacker C50 does 60,000-80,000 RPM, but not sure. It is a huge motor.

[Hairball]

Its very big (you can't use most pinion / spur setups on the stock emaxx tranny because the motor hits the tranny!), its a little on the heavy side, gets crazy hot, and runs like a bat out of hell! :D

Not sure what the RPM range is, have to email Hacker about that one.

[Chase023]

Yup I know how big those suckers are. I used to think my Magnetic Mayhems were big, then wow the C-50 is huge..

Lowest Pinion I mounted with the 72 teeth spur gear was 16 tooth. Maybe only way to mount lower and a broader range of pinions is using a custom motor mount but then I think going low as 16tooth for a C-50 gives you more than enough torque anyhow.

http://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/Transmission4.JPG

[Hairball]

TWO C50s!!!

OH MY! You ever run them at the same time?

[Chase023]

I haven't even run them once yet.
Still in the building process because of many custom parts here and there. My parts are off somewhere and still being worked on.

well these batteries I made will be powering them up later whenever I get my project done. Too bad it isn't an E-Maxx :D
heh

http://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/2x12CellShrink.JPG

[Hairball]

What exactly are you buidling?

And how do you plan on charging those packs?

[Chase023]

My project is called Dreadnaut. It will be a Juggernaut 2.

I wish I had pics of my Jugg2 but I don't at this moment. I only have pics of parts of it.

I even getting me a custom beadlock wheel made byTGC Tuff Wheels (http://www.geocities.com/tgctuffwheels/) This is only a prototype so many other changes will be made to the beadlock wheel.

http://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/BWheel1.JPG

I will charge these batteries using a Dymond Super Turbo, and/or my Litco Alpha4, and probably will buy me a Great planes Triton later on for a back up to the Dymond Super Turbo.
The typical RC Car chargers in my opinion are limited. There are a few that are okay but they can't really compare to the higher ones that the scale Plane flyers tend to use. Even the Novak millineum isn't that great IMO. I would rather have my Dymond Super Turbo or a Triton. I would list the specs but you can probably look them up.

This is what it looked like when it was practically stock.
http://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/_JuggernautStockMain.jpg

Scale looks, this is the best looking scale Real Monster Truck in my opinion other than the TXT-1 which is practically the evolution to the Juggernaut 2 with Cantilevers and no leaf springs and ladder type chassis.
For show I will probably use the hard body and get a Lexan/polycarbonate for bashing and I got a few custom bodies on the way and a few I did myself.

http://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/_El_Camino_SS.JPG

http://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/_HummerBody.JPG

[Chase023]

By the way I found this old pic of my parts before I had them sent out but these will be so different when I get them back and won't be the same as you see but still they look nice.



The tranny was just set on top for show, and it is not mounted that way.. hehe :Dhttp://home.pacbell.net/jaysim23/JuggParts1.JPG

[Chase023]

I gotta say that the first pic on this thread with the Tires flying off the wheel is sweet.

Would you prefer your E-Maxx to a T-Maxx with the C-50??

[Promod]

REAL POWER is DUAL 1940s with 18 cells to each motor!

http://www.******.net/img/3060


http://www.******.net/img/3112


Thank you,
Promod

[Chase023]

Whoa that is a lot of cells there 36.. Damn...
Crazy but sweet..

[Hairball]

Promod - Ya, ok. Thats just silly man.

Chase - Looks like you've got your self one nice project there. Looks more expensive than my E-Maxx too.

[Spooph]

OK, I thought my idea was a good one, but I think i'll pack up and go cry in a corner now. Wow, you guys are awesome, and your trucks are awesome too. You guys are the kind of people who make little boys like me just go: "I want one" eventhough in the back of our minds we realize it will never happen. Keep going, post some videos and have a blast, Kudos to all of you!!!!

[Spooph]

OK, having watched the video now, i'd like to see that thing jump, and race on a track, just for grins... But wow, that sounds really sweet. I'd also like some specs and so forth.... OH yea, the Jugg idea, really well thought out, everybody's going on with Maxx's etc, GO JUGG!!

[Spooph]

Dangit, forgot to post the question, sorry, really, this is my last post in a row.. What steering servo are you guys using? Stock? On my maxx it feels kinda week.

[Chase023]

I am using the Airtronics 94358Z ERG-VR: torque 200 oz/in at 6V; speed: 0.10 sec/60 deg at 6V for front and rear for my Jugg and for my TXT-1!

[lil_general_lee]

Wow, Lots of posts in one day! The Lehner system is the most powerful out of everything offered so far. They produce more torque or more RPM then the hackers based on which motors you get. The 1940 series makes the most torque. Also, The lehner system is more advanced then the Hacker. Hacker uses a solid magnetic rotor and lehner uses a stacked rotor. The stacked rotor makes the motor run smoother, Beter for partial loads and part throttle. Also, The 18120 BEC car ESC is rated up to 30 cells and can handle 120 continuous amps!

As far as the steering servo question, All I can say is Hitec HS-5945 !

[emaxxgo]

the 18120 is rated at 18 cells hence the name 18 120


Hacker also produces large BL motors, the XL series. Ask Outkast they r right up there with the 1940

[Chase023]

Maybe I should of bought two 1940s with the 18120 BEC car ESC but oh well I still like the Hacker C-50. Using more than 24 cells total for both motors would of been a little hard to fit in my Juggy.

[BigBadTahoe]

So what do you guys actually do with trucks that have 30 some cells with huge brushless motors? I mean if you touch the trigger it will flip over backward and if you tryied to go really fast on a track or even your yard you can't stop without flipping forward and you surly can't turn to quick going 40 - 50 mph! I'd be afraid to every drive an RC truck that cost a few grand! Thats insane!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: Keep up the good work.:D Those should definatly be in the magazines!

[Chase023]

Well DubDucedDurango, I hope I answered some of your Magnetic mayhem questions. Bottomline.. they are great for your TXT-1 for crawling and I believe they are faster than stock cans being 22 turns compared to 27turns stock.

I hope to get mine in magazines especially when it all comes together. I have so many things out right now getting done its insane. Funny part is that this Jugg is my first MT ever and my TXT-1 is my second which isn't even built yet due to waiting on parts. I kinda went extreme on these projects but I will end up bashing with it. No fun if I just stare at it.. heh... I hope to get them in Magazines with a story.

[Hairball]

What do you have being *done*? I mean, I do all my mods myself....

[Chase023]

When I mean mods I mean fabricating parts.
Simple mods here and there are no problem with soldering, bending and rounding parts, drilling a few holes or making a few adjustments to the body or parts but major mods like building my own custom chassis with a quality like some of the real sweet ones out there, making my own beadlock aluminum wheels, even making say my own suspension arms, or working with aluminum to fabricate high quality parts I don't think so. I don't have machinery nor the machinist skills to fabricate my own parts.

For Example.. I mean take a look at your chassis to your E-Maxx.. It is very nice and professionally built.
I mean did you build it yourself from scratch? I think you bought it and put together some of the hop-up parts :)

I think you get what I mean :)

[Hairball]

I bought the chassis, but only because I was stuck in Japan for a year. (Marine Corps).

I own a milling machine, and could have easily made it myself.

[Chase023]

I am glad you could fabricate your own parts but I can't nor will I do it because I am not that good at it anyhow. I don't even own a milling machine nor a lathe or a CNC machine to do the quality I would like. I would probably enjoy making my own parts but I am not because I got other priorities and I am too finicky to make my own parts.

From how you sound then you should of made every part instead of buying them. I mean there are people who make their own parts and there are ones who don't. It's just that simple.. :)

[Hairball]

Very true. I like to make stuff, but at times its just easier / faster to buy the damn things.

[Chase023]

Totally true and I agree.
Sometimes I get frustrated because they hardly ever have the part I want or need to my own specification. I wish I could make my own parts or have friend who could but no luck, so I do what I can.

But some things I am not sure if it is easy to make.. for example.. Metal ball ends like these..

http://www.rbcbearings.com/images/heim-open.jpg

Not easy to find the small sizes for RC application.