Kyosho Inferno MP 7.5 V2.0

[munim]

Ah!Udi, so you're here now huh?This is Skadebo from Maxxtraxx btw, I can't believe you were going to sell your 7.5!Heh

Anyways, I got an MP-7.5 as well. I couldn't pass it up, came with a V01,nice servos and in pretty much mint condition.It is so awesome compared to the MP-6, the arms are thicker, better molding on them.The previous infernos had wierd molding, for some reason it didn't seem precise.I love the new composite plastic K is using for the chassis pieces like for the reciever box/tray standoffs etc. It's much stiffer and better molded than the MP-5/6 platform.I haven't driven it yet though, I need a starter box and an FM radio.

[OldskoolGT]

Gord,

go to:

http://www.nitrocross.com/setup.htm

and you will find some good setups (including Kanai's setup).

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah skade... I could believe myself either. But honestly, in terms of part support, it is tempting.. Kyosho support here sucks.

Maxxtraxx is still down, do you know what the deal is with that? :(

Hope all goes well with your buggy, i'm sure you will like it. I lurve mine :p

For me I think the future spells sticking with Kyosho if I have the money. Kyosho kits are very neat (and I guess im spoilt), but in most places in the world, you go beyond paying for the privelege. Mugen's another viable option, but i'm quite sure the next Kyosho offering will blitz the current muggy. (as it always has)

I do hope Kyosho decide to actually improve the current ones flaws on the next kit, and include some proper 7075 aluminium gear throughout the kit, and chuck those ball-ended chassis braces for the real deal. (not just a new design with the old faults) Just so that when we pay $23409234 for a kyosho, we don't need to buy more stuff on top of all that money we pay for the kit.

[munim]

Yes, my thoughts exactly, which is why *gulp*, I'm selling the MP-7.5.I'm in the same state as you, I don't think I'll be able to afford the price of parts for this buggy.I'm in the middle of selling a bunch of stuff so I thought I'd sell everything, pool the money together and see what happens,lol.I think I'll probably wait for the next Inferno, if it's something the MP6 was to the MP5, then I'll hold out longer for the gen. of Inferno after that.

[uDi_MP75]

Wow dude.... I didn't mean that as in "chuck your 7.5 away". You seriously going to sell it? damn dude you just bought it right?

To be dead straight and honest with you, it is very rarely this kit breaks anything, and if you take precautions before doing insane jumps etc, it will survive pretty much anything. (eg. My tank is cracked and smashed because I didn't isolate it properly).

Sure parts are difficult, but if you have access to ebay and/or towerhobbies and/or other online RC shops, parts shouldn't be a big concern. They cost a lot, but they rarely break.

If your planning on the next Inferno, or any Inferno later than that - I can guarantee you've got a long wait... id guess at least a year+ before the next Kyosho, and least a few more years after that before another release.

I suggest you keep that thing, enjoy it, and then buy another maybe in a few years if you must. Just don't chuck it before you even get to try it properly.

[munim]

LOL, no, I was actually thinking about this before, I couldn't pass up a good deal so I thought maybe I'll run it or maybe sell it to make some profit. And yeah, Kyosho buggies really are the most durable buggies, running my MP-6 like I have proves it to me,heh. I have considered the long break I will have to take if I'm going to be getting the next Inferno, which as I said, I won't buy if it's as the -6 was to the 5. For now I'm just going to sit back and see what happens.My decisions really just pivot on whether I get a job this summer or not, it's kind of late though.

[uDi_MP75]

Well if you buy the next Inferno (I probably won't have the money to for a while) i'll make sure I get my comments off you. Pretty sad to see ya selling so soon though.

I need to get myself a job too, this hobby needs money to be any fun. And right now I have very little... :(

PS What happened to the long thread? I was thinking about reading the 30+ pages I wasn't here for sometime on the holidays... (got 3 weeks to myself!) last time I did that I picked out a few small bits of useful info.

[Razornmt]

i get the 1st post in thread v 2.0. im spechul.

[Razornmt]

now that thats out of the way, heres a link to my website sincei j ust uplaoded MANY new pics to it. i estiamte that 2 peopel will look at every pic on the site and then no one else will be able to view the site until they give me more bandwidth. :rolleyes: so the first two people r lucky. except that they get a million pop ups.
thats hwy i use pow an ad blocker.

http://razornmt.8m.com/




:eek: :eek: :eek:

[metal gear]

nice website you've got there

[Razornmt]

yea too bad im too cheap to buy the package that gets rid of the ads.:D :D :D

[uDi_MP75]

i've been working on a buggy site of my own, it is quite empty at the moment, so far i've only sorted out the layout etc, still need to get the bulk of the info up. 2 small popups on page load, and thats it. :)

uDi's buggy page (http://www.udisbuggypage.cjb.net)

Can you 7.5 boys check the "Buyers Guide" link, and tell me what I should add (if anything) under the Inferno 7.5 section? I haven't written anything on the other buggies yet, just haven't had the time (and maxxtraxx is down, which is where I usually leech opinions from).

Also if anyone owns a Kanai2, i'd be interested in hearing what you DONT like about the kit - one specific point of personal interest is are you guys running the stock towers without bendage, or are we still having to upgrade to racers-edge etc like the regular/kanai-1 kits?

I've already got a few complaints on the 3.5mm shocks - cap issues (can anyone go into some depth for me on that... im not sure exactly whats up), and marky on here told me that the lower plastic 'collars' in the shock are ovalling out (too) quickly. Anyone else had that prob?

Thanks-
uDi

[munim]

Nice website Udi, only thing I could find was that you mentioned the regular 7.5 has a steel chassis, I'm pretty sure it's aluminum though.Well, I'm selling my MP-6 right now on Ebay, so If I make a high enough profit, I might keep the 7.5, we'll see.

[OldskoolGT]

uDi,

The problem with the K2 shocks was the bladders, they would get punctured by the cap. Kyosho designed a new funky bladder (has a flap on top) to remedy the problem.

Due to the angle the rear shocks are mounted at, the little shock bushings are always going to get ovaled out. It doesn't seem to effect anything since the shock is not designed to be a strutural member. I tried a Mugen rebuild kit, and it wore out at just like the original Kyosho parts.

The shock towers are probably the strongest stock towers that come in any kit. I have not bent mine in 7 months of racing.

My only gripe with the K2 is the crappy torque rods they include.

[uDi_MP75]

munim - thanks, i'll fix that next time I edit the page. I'm sure theres a few little things like that I have yet to iron out.
I saw your MP6 on ebay and went on to check the pics... really neat kit that is. International for sure, Gold chassis and uni's all round etc prove it. There was something about that kit, was a force to be reckoned with it seemed :D How much did you pay brand new? or did you buy 2nd hand...
Good luck with selling it, hope you get some decent money. Kinda rough though with all these 7.5's going for cheap nowadays with all the ofna's thrown in at cheap-as prices as well.

Oldskool - fair enough, but my old bushings are still cool (old 3mm shocks/shafts, never been rebuilt in 2-3 gals or so of bashing) and i've been told the new ones go oval way faster. Will throw the commentary in on the shocktowers that they don't bend.
I have however snapped two 3mm shafts, no snappage with the new ones?
They always snap right at the bottom near the shockend (or sometimes in the shockend, making you buy a new plastic parts set too :rolleyes:). However I noticed on the new 3.5 shafts, they taper down to the old size right at the end (just before threads), which made me think that they would probably break just as easily and in the same way.

As for the torque rods - it seems ofna have been the only guys to get their butts together with that one (good kits or not), Mugens X5 still has the ballended junk as well as the K2 etc. Hopefully K&M will decide to make the switch to cnc/billet on their next bugs.

[OldskoolGT]

Snapping a 3.5 mm shock shaft is about as common as a sober Irishman, very uncommon. (My sincere apologies to any Irish pepople that were offended, I just always wanted to say that.) :)

One thing you can do to reduce shock shaft breakage is to cut 2mm off the end of the shock shaft and then thread the shaft 2 mm deeper into the ball end. This reduces the amount of stress on the threaded part of the shaft (which is almost always the place where it breaks at).


The 3.5 mm shock shafts are a constat diameter all the way down to the threads (see pic). They taper down at the top so they can still use the old pistons.

[munim]

Udi- I bought the car second-hand.Hehe, I kind of layed it on in the auction.

About those shock shafts breaking, some people grind of 2mm like OldSkool said but you can also buy Races edge aluminum ballends although I think they are kind of overboad.

I have one more question, is it just me or does my MP-6 have more travel than the 7.5 in suspension.I have them both setup for maximum up-down travel but the 6 still has more.

[atm92484_3]

Theres a good chance it has more. I'm guessing as part of evolving the buggy, Kyosho took out travel that wasn't needed in racing.

Udi, IM me next time you're on. I have some stuff for your site if you're interested.

[uDi_MP75]

OldSkool - :eek: I stand corrected bigtime. I swear in some early K2 shock auctions on ebay I saw tapered ends (bottom).... but it must have been my eyes or the pic or something - i really dont know. Thanks for the tip regarding cutting off 2mm, I might try that one out, it sounds like it would work.

munim - not into ally ballends, I doubt that would help the problem either (it would make it worse if anything, transfer 100% shock to the shaft without absorbing any shock like plastic might.. although that is just my stupid explanation).
Guess atm is right on the 6/7.5 travel thing...

atm - cool, I'll say hi next time your on, but 90% of the time im on, your set to away lol. Post whatever in here if you dont see me on in the next week or so lol.

Currently im waiting on a 9.5 tank guys, my 7.5 one exploded on me last time I went out backflipping. I had 'repaired' it many times with my trusty soldering iron, and in the end it was so smashed and soldered up (and leaking 'like a girl at that time of the month') that I thought I better get a new one. Kyosho parts support suck so I went for the ofna, cheaper too.

atm - would you be kind enough to (only if you can) tell me if a 9.5 tank might fit alright? I will find out in a few days anyway, but if you have a 9.5 tank lying around at your lhs and could check for me...? Anyone else have access to both cars lol... or can just visually compare the two at the track :p

I'm thinking at worst I will have to redrill holes for mounting posts, and at best I can just screw it straight in after cutting off the long fuel drain pipe on the 9.5 tank.

Thanks for any help

[OldskoolGT]

The Racer's Edge aluminum shock ends are longer than the stock ones, so you don't have to do the shaft trimming trick.

Kyosho does have some new shocks out for the 7.5 that extends the travel a few more millimeters to give you that old school MP 6 feelin. :)

[go1d1e]

Talking of shocks.. anyone tried the piggybacks on an inferno?

I have some, and i don`t see any difference. But its more than likely that its just me.. anyone want to try them?


Anyone know of any good deals on a set of K2 shocks? i don`t really want to pay 100 bucks :-/ I`d even swap mine straight for a set of kanai ones right now..

[NoleC5]

Okay, well the Inferno Sport comes with a horrible motor. I have not read one good thing about it. And now I know why. The thing runs hotter than anything and has little to know power. So I've decided to upgrade.

Now, I know I will need to buy motor mounts but I'm not sure what else. Can anyone provide any assistance?

[uDi_MP75]

NoleC5 - Don't doublepost - keep your sports questions on the sports thread, or at least try not to post them twice. I believe someone already answered your q in that thread. I usually check both threads myself if they have come to the top, so theres no need to say it in both. ;)

goldie - i've heard piggybacks are pretty pointless/unneccessary on 1/8's, because our shocks are already pretty high in capacity. The p/b's are good for 1/10 trucks etc where the bodies are smaller and need that extra capacity to smoothen/even them out or whatever, but probably not needed on the bugs.

So what shocks do you run currently...?

[go1d1e]

I have the regular 7.5 shocks with the piggybacks on the top..

Want to go to the K2 shocks, but don`t ant to pay the 50 odd bucks a pair..

[atm92484_3]

Has anyone else ever been rear ended and had the threads on the body/cap get stripped?

[Razornmt]

my 7.5 pro is gonna be runnin again soon (down for cleaning) and im looking into a new engine. the os vz01b looks like its gonna be my next .21 , along with 3 shoe trinity clutch setup and waller 5505 and nova rossi 86 inline pipe. any questions?



www.razornmt.8m.com

[BoogerB]

Does someone have a good picture of the regular 479.99 ish priced 7.5 ? All i've seen is hopped up or with the body on.... Just wondering what it will actually look like when i get it.
And while I'm at it, when building is there any specifics that i should change, all the screws allen? etc....

[Razornmt]

i have the mp7.5 pro (not kanais or the readyset/rtr/ etc)

action pic : http://www.razornmt.8m.com/cgi-bin/i/Directory/Kyosho%20Inferno%20MP7.5%20Buggy%20/buggyfly.jpg

http://www.razornmt.8m.com/cgi-bin/i/Directory/Kyosho%20Inferno%20MP7.5%20Buggy%20/done1.jpg



http://www.razornmt.8m.com/cgi-bin/i/Directory/Kyosho%20Inferno%20MP7.5%20Buggy%20/rxbox1.jpg




http://www.razornmt.8m.com/cgi-bin/i/Directory/Kyosho%20Inferno%20MP7.5%20Buggy%20/swaybar.JPG






http://www.razornmt.8m.com/cgi-bin/i/Directory/Kyosho%20Inferno%20MP7.5%20Buggy%20/fueltubing.JPG



completely stock besides the metal radio tray posts and wing posts and front sway bar.

[uDi_MP75]

Umm just about before, my 9.5 tank arrived and after a new hole drilled for the front mounting post, it fits great. It costed me two thirds or less of what the 7.5 tank costs, and it arrived at my door in about 4 days (the kyosho would have taken at least a few weeks to a month..... lmao). It also came with a pair of aluminium posts and screws etc which was neat - made mounting it in a different car easy.

BoogerB -
Razors got a crap digicam so heres mine. Lol razor you really need to blow some of your money on a cam :p

Everything on there is stock except the gold turnbuckles (off Kanai2), but the stock ones are fine anyway.

Oh, and the latest revisions of the regular kit come with blue anodizing I believe (like the sports/KE1/KE2) whereas mine is gold. I don't mind the gold cause it keeps things different from the 10001 blue buggies out there.

http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/75/inferno1.jpg

a few more:
http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/75/inferno2.jpg
http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/75/inferno3.jpg
http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/75/inferno4.jpg
http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/75/inferno5.jpg
http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/75/inferno6.jpg

[BoogerB]

Thanks for the pics

uDi_MP75= I had seen some of your pics but wasn't sure if it was completely stock or not.

I hopefully will get ahold of one with the gold ano.... I really like the look of it, as blue is everywhere.

What engine do you have btw?

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah..... that gunmetal wing, the gold turnbuckles, and front chassis brace I added.... all else is stock. (ignoring engine gear/radio gear). And yeah, like I said - gold keeps things a little more individual. Good luck finding one of the gold ones, I don't think it should be too hard provided you look/ask around. It's 100% matter of preference there anyway.. personally i'd like to see a green anodized buggy sometime.... hehe.

That engine is an OS V01B.. i've been quite happy with it so far as have many others I know. I believe its been replaced with a newer model since a few months back (OS VZ-B - http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2067.html) but haven't heard of any performance comparisons yet.

My guess would be the performance would be almost identical, judging by the performance difference between the old V99B and later V01B, which was just about nothing.

[Viral_Fusion]

Wow, havent been here for quite a while, so whats new? This is the right thread right? i'm guessing the other one got full?

[Viral_Fusion]

Anyways anyone haveing trouble keeping their wheels glued to their rims? Mine keep comming lose, so i mixed up some epoxy and glued the thing like no tomorrow, it worked fine for a while now its comming off again, anyone know if the "pre-glued" tires come lose easly?

thanks

[Razornmt]

i have preglued proline mugshots. they are glued all the way around. no little dots here and there. a solid line of glue. they havent come un done on me yet in over 1 gallon.

[Viral_Fusion]

Humm... i'll try those, well the reason my tires come unglued so fast is because my servo isn't strong enough to apply the breaks to i have to turn hard and nail the throttle for the car to do a 90 degrees turn and skid out to slow the car down, ( i usually do this on ashfalt :eek: )

[Viral_Fusion]

hehe my crime fighters have become slicks because of my "Drivin' Style"

[OldskoolGT]

Viral,

Are you preparing the tires and wheels before you glue them?

I clean both with denatured alcohol (after washing them with Simple Green). The type of glue you you also makes a big difference. The best stuff to use is probably "Kinwald Beadlock" tire glue. Generic "super glue" doesn't seem to last in my experience.

[Viral_Fusion]

yeah, i did that, but just with water and soap. i sanded it before i washed it. mixed up some quick setting 10 min epoxy took a servo linkagwe wire and stuffed glue in it till the cows came home (Made quite a mess) they lasted about 1/4 of a gallon and they've become lose and it looks really strange, it makes the wheel look wabbly hehe. AHH! 60 for 4 of the mugshots!, plus shipping... i think i'll just rip everything off and this time i'll try even more glue after the standerd sand and scrub.

Where can i find this Kinwald Beadlock stuff, sounds sticky

[Viral_Fusion]

uDi_MP75 did u buy the front chassi torqe rod or did ur kit come with it, mine didn't :confused:

Razornmt we have the same pipe, that cheapo duratrax thing right?, how come urs has little holes in it? did u poke little holes in it or did u roll over somthing cuz ur cooling head seems alittle scrached. i would post a pick of my car but i need to borrow a digi can first

[Razornmt]

lol no. i have a .21 nmt and used that pipe. but its on the oposite side so i had to have it upside down. rocks just flew up scratched it a bunch. now i use a novarossi 9886 inline.

[uDi_MP75]

Viral -
like I stated earlier, the torquerod aint stock.

and for tyres... im using 'Selleys' super glue (a quality brand over here.. dunno if you have it in US) and I drive much like yourself (bad servos, lots of sliding and trashing tyres onroad) and so far the glue has held really well. I suppose you could class this stuff as 'generic super glue' too, but it works for me.. only $1 a tube. Also I didnt take the time to clean/sand the wheels/tyres, and like I said, still holding well a year later...

I actually spent days trying to get the tyres off the wheels - boiling them etc etc, but no luck.... lol. i've decided to keep them as they are now... let them turn into slicks and then use them for onroad tyres.

[Belly_mp7.5]

I have a little question I think that your had already answer this question but i cant find the answer. I have a big dent near the exit of the exhaust (RB 86 in line) and i want to remove it with the trick of frozen wather.

I just want to know if you block just one or all the hole and with what kind of thing are u using to block it

thank you

Math

[trickedoutGT]

Belly, I use a wine bottle cork and the cap from my fuel bottle.

[Belly_mp7.5]

éhéh :)

thank you thats a very good idea ! :)

Mat

[atm92484_3]

For you guys using the 2050 pipe from O.S., any idea how it compares to a 086 pipe?

[OldskoolGT]

People who have both tell me that they are very similar in performance. I have no need to buy a 86 pipe now, because my T-2050 should last forever. Mine is many months old now and doesn't have a single dent or ding in it. I don't think any 86 pipe owner has ever made that claim. :)

[atm92484_3]

You read my mind. My 086 is looking pretty sad right now (I'll give the stinger another race until it becomes an optional part on the pipe).

On the 2050, did you need to use any sort of adapter to get more low-end or is the pipe good at getting the buggy moving? With the 086, if there was no Waller adapter, the car just didn't want to accelerate, even with a V01b, 14t bell, 3 shoe clutch, and 1.1 springs on the clutch.

[OldskoolGT]

IMHO, the T-2050 makes good power everywhere. And its a great pipe for the V01B. A friend of mine use to have the V01B/T2050 combination, and it screamed around the track.

You might also want to try a 13 tooth clutch bell also, I have actually seen guys run 13/48 (seems crazy but works) with good results with your engine.

[atm92484_3]

Thanks Oldskool. I guess I know what I'm tossing on backorder tomorrow. :)

[OldskoolGT]

Also keep an eye on Ebay for the T-2050. I got mine off there for $115.

[NoleC5]

Does anyone know of any issues with the rear diffs in the 7.5 buggies? I have an inferno sport and apparently the diffs that come in this kit only have two (2) bevel gears in each diff whereas the normal 7.5 kit has four (4) bevel gears in each diff.

Well, I'm trying to add the additional two gears to each diff and I think both the front and rear are good to go. I'm just having problems with the rear diff.

It seems like if I torque the screws on the diff just a little to much, it causes the diff to want to lock up. Is there some kind of flaw here? Do I need to replace the whole diff?

Kind of a side note, the name thing happened to the rear diff this weekend at the track. In my second heat race, the rear diff totally stripped out (at the time with only 2 bevel gears). So I replaced them at the track and when I put it together the first time, the whole thing locked up. I had to tourque the screws on the diff very lightly in order to get it to work.

Any idea, tips, suggestions??? :rolleyes:

Thanks

[go1d1e]

Make sure you remove the shims.. if it is over-shimmed, it will tighten up too much

[MonsterBlazer#1]

i had the same prblem with my OFNA monster blazer diff
u have to actually turn it a little...(get the sider gearsmoving) whilst u gt a little tention on it
makes sure they are lined up
altho dont turn too fast other wise they will creap up


hope u get sum help from this

Neil

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Make sure you remove the shims.. if it is over-shimmed, it will tighten up too much

Where are the shims? Not sure if I noticed them in there.

[go1d1e]

IIRC, the end you took off, there is a big gear on it.. take this gear off and there might be shims underneath it.. same on the other end, just alot harder to get too :-/

Logically, if that gear is shimmed out alot, when you tighten the case together it will compress the gears together right?

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
IIRC, the end you took off, there is a big gear on it.. take this gear off and there might be shims underneath it.. same on the other end, just alot harder to get too :-/

Logically, if that gear is shimmed out alot, when you tighten the case together it will compress the gears together right?

Okay, that makes sense now. I will have to check it out tonight when I get home. The only thing that doesn't make sense is that the other two diffs seem to be fine.

I'll throw this in, not sure if it means anything, but when I ran the car last after finishing the diffs, it seems to run okay but when I stopped the car, the bottom of the chasis under the rear diff was extremely hot. That than made me turn the rear wheels and I knew something was wrong.

[go1d1e]

Ok, check the shims inside the gearbox too..

i`m just guessing on this one.. check the bearings too..

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Ok, check the shims inside the gearbox too..

i`m just guessing on this one.. check the bearings too..

Well, I just don't know what it is. It's not the bearings and its not shims, because there aren't any. I guess I'm just going to try and pick up a new diff housing tomorrow and see if that helps.:rolleyes:

[uDi_MP75]

You've got too much money man.

Download the regular MP7.5 manual off the Kyosho site, and make sure your diff is built in the exact same way as in the manual.

If you got extra cash to throw around, get the hardened ring and pinion diff gears F/R. The softies in the sports kits will wear down/out eventually, much quicker with the WS7II you've got in there.

[Marky]

If you say that when you do up the casing the diff locks up, it could be that the sun gear inside (the big ones at either end) could not be seated right onto the out put drives, if they are slightly crooked then has you tighten up the case they are clamping the diff together.
Make sure this is on the output shaft straight and true

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/kyosho/mp75/mp75build/picsstep1/mp75-step1-045.jpg

And as udi says the sport ring and pinion gears are very soft grade ally and the power of the WS7II will eat them up very quickly if not checked and re-shimed on a regular bassis.

Heres a step by step guide to assembling the front and rear diffs
guide (http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/kyosho/mp75/mp75build/mp75-step1.html)

These are the instructions of the K2 diffs, which has TCD diffs in the front and center but a normally style in the rear, so you can use that part of the instructions to help you out :D

Marky

[NoleC5]

Wow, thanks Marky! I think I'm done with this piece of garbage. I can't stand it anymore. They cut so many corners on this car. Part of it is my fault for not researching it enough before I bought it.

The only question now is what should I get: Kanai II or MBX5??? Suggestions?

[ugman]

Obviously in the Kyosho forum you will hear the KII. I have one ant it is awesome!!

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by ugman
Obviously in the Kyosho forum you will hear the KII. I have one ant it is awesome!!

Good point. I think the only reason I'm considering the mbx5 is b/c it is newer. I know that doesn't mean better though. But most of the guys I pit with run kanai's.

[go1d1e]

I would go with whatever availablity you have locally..

AND if you go KII, then alot of the spares you already have will be compatible..


But you have to admit that MBX5 looks good :) And the price is right

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
I would go with whatever availablity you have locally..

AND if you go KII, then alot of the spares you already have will be compatible..


But you have to admit that MBX5 looks good :) And the price is right

Well, parts are available for both buggies in my area, although the Kyosho parts are more prevalent. But I'm guessing that as the MBX5 gets more popular, these parts will also become more common.

So all this means is that I still can't make a decision. Price isn't really an issue. I just want to make sure I get the right buggie this time.

[go1d1e]

Well, do you like your inferno?

do you know anyone with an MBX5 to try out?

I haven`t driven one personally.. but I have never had any luck with the pivot ball suspension..

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Well, do you like your inferno?

do you know anyone with an MBX5 to try out?

I haven`t driven one personally.. but I have never had any luck with the pivot ball suspension..

I haven't been having much luck with the suspention on this (inferno) buggie. Everytime I redo the shocks I get the same result. Push on the front end and it doesn't want to rebound. I'm running the kani shocks with 70wt in the front and the light blue springs.

Now onto my other problem. I have the kanai clutch and flywheel on the car and all of a sudden, now the wheels spin constantly. It is like the clutch is engaging when it shouldn't be. But I have no idea what to do about it???

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by NoleC5
I haven't been having much luck with the suspention on this (inferno) buggie. Everytime I redo the shocks I get the same result. Push on the front end and it doesn't want to rebound. I'm running the kani shocks with 70wt in the front and the light blue springs.

That 70wt oil defiently isn't helping the push at all. Try running 3000/5000/1000wt diff oil (f/c/r) and 30wt oil all around with the black pistons and blue springs. If you also do not have droop screws installed, that too can cause the car to push. I have my front droop screws set so that the suspension can only extend slightly beyond the universals being level, thus keeping a good deal of weight on the front end, even on power.

As for the clutch, try possibly lowering the idle. IMO as long as it doesn't move the car when its on the ground, the idle is fine.

[uDi_MP75]

Like I stated above, you really must be made of money.

If your going to buy a new bug right now, i'd go for the K2. Even if its purely because you will have a whole kit to steal spares from when you need them. The X5 is a fair bit cheaper, so if money is an issue, the X5 would do great. The K2 would sport typical 7.5 handling (rides on rails...) and i've heard theres little difference with the X5 - and the Mugen also apparently has a little more steering.

You have to keep in mind that the X5 is like a base/regular kit, whereas the K2 is like a final evolution of the 7.5, almost an MP8 - blasted to death with hopups. So you are going to get a little more gear with the K2, but the price reflects (or over reflects!) that.

I'd go for the K2 because you've already got a 7.5, but if I was starting anew, id probably go with the Mugen and save some money. Also, wild guess... the K2 will take more of a beating before things break, so if you like hurting kits, id go kyosho. The X5's lighter, so it might be more track-friendly if all your doing is racing, and that extra steering could help out too.

Its your choice on this one, obviously X5 owners will say that and K2 owners will say that. Both great buggies - personally if it was me, i'd skip out, hang on to the sports and buy the next generation of Inferno. But why bother, you could probably buy one of those two AND get the next-gen the moment it hits the streets. :D

[go1d1e]

Hey Udi.. he could get an MP8.5 :D

[munim]

For your clutch problem, sounds like the spring has broken.Take off the clutchbell and inspect the spring to see if it's broken or stretched out.If it is, just get new ones.Otherwise, it might be that the idle is too high.

As to your buggy dilemma, you should probably get the K2, if most people in your area are running Kyosho, get one so that you will have good setup tips etc.However, check out if other people are going to get a X5 as well.

[monyet fangkeh]

hi...im thinking getting the inferno 7.5 rtr. is it a good buggy. i know the inferno is a good buggy but how bout the rtr version? i never had buggy before so i have no idea about this buggy.
do you think the shock can stand big jump? cos on the shock there like a "clamp" to adjust the ride height and its tighten by only a screw. do u think its gonna blow when it land from a big jump?

[munim]

No No No, do Not waste your money on the less expensive Infernos. Kyosho has cut many corners on the sports versions of the MP-7.5. You will find the shocks,throttle/steering linkages,diff drive gears,shock towers,chassis all lacking.It would be very expensive to upgrade these parts because you will need them.Besides those, there are other small things to consider,
Sports vs Regular

No engine mounts vs engine mounts
Dogbones up front vs Universals
No Screw adjusters on brake rods vs has 'em
No shockboots vs has 'em
Non Teflon shock pistons vs. whaddya know!

Those are mostly off the top of my head.In the end, go for the regular or a Hyper 7 and the sort if the price is a big factor.Remember, there is always Ebay.

Edit:Oh yeah, the clamp thing won't be a problem, don't know about the shock though,heh.

[uDi_MP75]

err he is a noob, i think the sports would be a great car for him.

come on not everyone has that much money. I'll be honest and spit out here that if you want a regular kit with decent gear, you WILL pay double or triple what you would for a sports RTR.

Get the sports RTR, i've heard pretty good things - and best of all it won't blow open your bank. The kit will take a definately beating, because the suspension components (besides shocks) and other plastics are the same as the regular/kanai1 kits pretty much. So no, it won't "blow" from taking a big jump. trust me they take lots of abuse.

If you can afford to spend a fair bit more than that, then tell us and we can get you some other reccomendations. Like munim said, ebay is a great way to go (thats what id do if i were you), as well as going for other kits such as the hyper7, lightning pro, 9.5 etc.

goldie - shutup u suck, im going to go and cry to my mummy now because ur teasing me just coz im dumb. :(

[NoleC5]

Well, thanks for all of your guys help. It turned out that the nut that holds the flywhell had backed off and that was why the clutch was engaging to soon! I haven't started the car up again yet, but I think I've fixed that problem.

Went to the track on Saturday and the shop had a great deal on an MBX5, $510!! So I bought it. :D About half way through putting it together now!

[Razornmt]

traitor. must kill.

[dgrobe2112]

Im a new owner, and was wondering if there is any reccommended hop ups for the 7.5, i dont have the Kanai edition.. or the sports version.. Where can i get hopups for this buggy.. Also, i found a website that has carbon fiber parts for this buggy.. like shock towers.. and radio tray, and even the side plates.. they are 4.5mm thick shock towers.. do you think they will be good parts, or break easy?? Is there any titanium shock towers out there??

Thanks in advance for all your help

[munim]

dgrobe2112, You don't really need a lot of hopups for the 7.5.Some good investments would be to get some solid aluminum front and rear braces.If you like to land upside down alot, an upgraded front and rear shock tower would be a wise choice, even though I have yet to break the stock ones.Last one, go to your local hardware store and get a bolt and lock nut, 3mm by 40mm( the last 5mm should be threaded) for the front outer lower hinge pin.The stock pins are fine but after a hit or two, the e-clip can bust off and then the pin will slide around, eventually leading to arm breakage, plus, you can tighten any slop that might develop after a while.Other than that, the K car is a very durable buggy.

[uDi_MP75]

1. New 7075 shocktowers (stocks bend easy)
2. New 7075 chassis braces (or at least get the standard Kanai front brace, so you got some form of brace for the front and rear)
3. New 7075 Hingepin holders/braces. (stocks bend easy)

I've only had an e-clip pop off once, and that was during WOT crash with a curb. Surprisingly, the e-clipping popping off and a stripped servo gear was the only 'damage' as such after the crash - so yeah, its a tough girl.

munim - have you got your e-clips on the 'right way'? The clip has a rounded side and a completely flat side. On the rounded side, the edges of the metal are smoothly chamfered. You want this round, smooth side to be the side that faces the plastic/metal component, and the sharp/flat-edged side to face out. If the flat edge is facing inward (vice versa to above) the sharp edges of the clip can get easily caught on the part, and force the clip to come off. With the rounded edge, it just slides along in a hard hit and doesnt get caught. You probably knew, but just in case you didnt.

[Razornmt]

first thing i have ever heard you say that i found worth doing.



i guess ill make sure htey're like that when i rebuild mah 7.5

[munim]

Udi-Yeah, I know about the e-clip thing, it actually hasn't happened to me(e-clip popping off) but I've heard it alot.

The 7075 upgrades are good, especially the Fioroni and Racers Edge pieces.The stock arm brades bend but they are pretty easy to bend/hammer back into shape.I have had them bend after being T-boned at a fairly fast speed but not after that.(Well, I didn't get hit,lol).The stock braces for the chassis are okay when new, but when the ballends develope slop, it defeats the purpose.

[OldskoolGT]

Wow! So much love in this forum.

dgrobe2112,

also consider getting:

turnbuckles
20 or 22 degree hub carriers for the front
rear universals

Carbon fiber parts are unnecessary for the 7.5 IMHO. They might be slightly lighter, but the original aluminum parts do their job perfectly fine.

If you want really strong shock towers, look into Racer's Edge or Ratzas stuff. The K2 shock towers are also very strong too, but if you are gonna upgrade, you might as well get the really trick stuff instead.

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by Razornmt
first thing i have ever heard you say that i found worth doing.

Theres a first for everything I guess; and judging by your posts, I doubt i'll see the same from you for many years to come. :rolleyes:

Jeez all I ever try to do is offer info/opinions and grab some for myself. Sue me.

munim - yeah, I replaced all four chassis-brace ballcups just recently, so it is like new again. Im just too poor to buy some nice billet bits just yet, and the Kyosho ones are working for me so they can continue to do so for a little while longer lol. Your right about the hingepin braces, they bend back real easy, as do shocktowers.. but the way I bash, the braces bend again really quick/easy. :( not a big deal though.

Kind of dissapointing that Kyosho have had it as a tradition to put weaker quality metals on kits other than team/international editions.... hope they change that with their next release. Mugen are well ahead of them in inclusions out of the box, especially with "regular" kits. Both companies still use the old school chassis braces though, which is also dissapointing, hope they change. Anyone know the reason for this? X5/K2 still have the same deal.

[munim]

It's most likely because of the expense, it would probably add $30-50 to the kit.It wouldn't be worth it for them to produce it as the part generally doesn't wear=no replacing=no $$$ for Kyosho.I speak the truth:)

[Striker]

Besides the stock 7.5 body and the 7.5 Crowd Pleaser body, are there any other bodies that will fit the 7.5?

[RCisLife]

OFNA 9.5 bodies will fit Kyosho 7.5

Check them out at http://www.ofna.com/body-offroad.html

You'll need to make some trimming adjustments, but they'll fit.

Hope this helps.. :)

[Striker]

Thanks for the help. I have a K2 and just got a Crowd Pleaser body for it. Anyway, I was looking at the latest Radio Control Nitro mag and the yellow 7.5 on the front wasn't any body that I had seen before. Thanks again for the help.

[=[flame]=]

i think that was a trinity wasp body, check it out on tower

[Striker]

Originally posted by =[flame]=
i think that was a trinity wasp body, check it out on tower


=[flame]= You are correct. It was a wasp body. Thank you.

Anyone else know of bodies that will fit the 7.5?

[munim]

That's about it, I don't think there are any other bodies made to fit the 7.5.

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah thats about it. That reminds me, I got a crowd pleazer sitting on my TV at home that i've got to paint sometime for my bug.

Those Ofna prepaints sure look good.... swap those Ofna decals for Kyosho's, and you'd have a bod worth placing on a K-car. :p

Originally posted by munim
It's most likely because of the expense, it would probably add $30-50 to the kit.It wouldn't be worth it for them to produce it as the part generally doesn't wear=no replacing=no $$$ for Kyosho.I speak the truth:)

To produce a pair of quality chassis braces with a CNC machine would cost less than 30 bucks a pair. A lot, lot less. And even lesser when you are mass producing for a kit that will sell in huge numbers.

Hardly anyone rebuilds the stock braces, most people just go for new CNC ones. If people do rebuild, all they buy are the cheap plastic ends -- therefore Kyosho don't make much on them anyway.

thats the way I see it anyway.. i think K/M just gotta wake up and give us what we want.

[go1d1e]

Udi.. you ever upgrade? or still running the stock braces?

[OldskoolGT]

Kyosho and Mugen have been making those ball ended torque rods long before CNC torque rods became popular. Its cheaper for them to just keep including the same old torque rods than designing a new part. Kyosho and Mugen also know that a minor part such torque rods are not going to be a deal breaker. People who want Kyosho or Mugen are not going to buy OFNA or GS just because those cars come with CNC torque rods. Hence, we keep getting those cheezy torque rods.

Just slightly OT here, but Mugen actually goes through the expense of making the center section of the MBX5 torque rods from machined aluminum.

[Striker]

My local track is small and technical. A lot of U turns. Because I don't want to read a 1000 posts...... I have a k2, would I want to put lsd in the front and rear or can I get away with the stock set up of front and center. Basicly I need alot of stearing.

Secondly, our club is attempting to blue groove the track. Should I use the Proline Knuckles or Crimefighters?

[go1d1e]

Well, I would guess front/center.. the rear will give you more push on the front..

As for tires.. blue groove? I hear the big guys are using Medial pro Adehris (sp?)

[OldskoolGT]

Front and rear TCDs is the best choice if you want lots of steering. TCD in the center pushes too much. Kunckles are good, if your track becomes blue groove, otherwise they don't work very well in loose dirt.

[RCisLife]

Prices on: RB WS7II & OS V01B

Hello everyone,
I own an Inferno 7.5 regular kit that I bought used off a friend for cheap! ($75.00) and now I would like to know Where and How much will these two engines + their Piston & Sleeve will cost me:

1). O.S. .21 V01B + (Piston & Sleeve)

2). RB WS7II + (Piston & Sleeve)

I want to purchase these two engines and I'm looking for deals. Where have many of you guys purchased yours from? and how much is the lowest price I can get a hold of these engines?
Do any of you know of any good Websites for reference? Any help you guys can give, I'll appreciate.

Thanks again for your help in other circumstances

[OldskoolGT]

For good deals on engines, check out Ace Hobbies, Nitrohouse, Sheldons, and Ashford Hobbies.

Or check out Ebay for some good deals on new engines.

Expect to pay around $300 for a WS72.

I would not reccomend a V01B because it is a discontinued engine and you will be at the mercy of Great Planes for spare parts.

[munim]

Be sure to check over the 7.5 first, sounds too cheap for comfort?*shakes head* where am I when these good deals are out there?!:o

[RCisLife]

Thank you very much for all your help guys..

I'll be going for the WS7II and the new O.S. VZ

[dgrobe2112]

Just curious.. what is the difference between the Kyosho 7.5, the Kyosho 7.5 sports??

Is there a big difference?? which is better??

Thanks

[morfracerX]

Does any one have a picture of the The Racer's Edge aluminum shock ends and how much are they,I have been to racer-edge.com but there are no pictures there of the aluminum shock ends also if some one has the shock on there car how are they woRking out for you :eek: You guessed it i BROKE MY 7.5 TODAY NOW I'M HEART BROKEN

[go1d1e]

There was a picture and breif paragraph about them in the last mag..

[Striker]

Which mag is that?

[munim]

I haven't used them personally, because I haven't broken anything yet.Greg Degani and Richard Saxton swear by them.RE offers them in 3mm and 3.5mm as well.Some tips I have heard about them is to grind off around 2mm of the shock shafts threads so the aluminum is higher up on the shaft.The ends are a really tight fit on the shocks so you will most likely have to hold the shaft with some pliers, but don't do it metal to metal!!Use a cloth or some fuel tubing on the shaft.However, some people have had the problem of them loosening so you can use loctite or even drill and tap a hole in the ends to accept a 3mm set screw to hold in on even tighter.

[go1d1e]

Originally posted by Striker
Which mag is that?

RC Car Action I think.. the one that has this site..

[Marky]

Just got my copy of RC Action and have seen the said pic.......question i have is, what are the balls made of ??
There not steel cos that would just wear the ally out in a flash.
Anyone ???
While we are on the subject of shocks......any one have problems with the 3.5mm shocks ??? in paticular the seals ?? i seem to have to change the o-rings and washer on a regular bassis because of the washers going oval :confused:
Never seemed to have the problem with the older style 3mm shocks in my MP6, it seems to be the rear shocks too, fronts are fine, but i have had to replace the rears twice already :mad: (only a gallon or so of fuel) and the repair kit costs £9 for a pair of shocks.

Marky

[trickedoutGT]

I need a Kyosho MP 7.5 body. Doesn't matter if it's used, battered, or new. It just needs to have a nice paint job. Again, I dont care if its bad condition. Thanks

[munim]

Marky- The RE shock ends are made of aluminum.About your shock problems, I can't think of anything except that you might be building them wrong or your suspension has slop in it, check and see. I don't know why people have problems with their shocks, if you build them properly, without cutting any corners and take your time, they will last a long time.
-Munim

[Spurdog28]

It is the same thing that happens to GS shocks. Plastic wears there is no getting around it. Same thing also happens in 1/10 shocks, you just dont notice it as much because there is more aluminum at the base.

[Marky]

Originally posted by munim
Marky- The RE shock ends are made of aluminum.

Yes i know the ballends are made of Ally, but my question was, what are the balls made of ?? In the picture they look like they are made of some sort of brake pad material.

Guess i'm just gunna have to put up with the washers going oval then i spose, cos i know they are built right.

Marky

[uDi_MP75]

Marky - hate to ever suggest Mugen, but what do you think of getting a set of Mugen Bigbores around the car? I have heard nothing but good things about those shocks, and apparently they are really really durable. I've heard of no issues about them either, unlike the K's.

Maybe if anyone at your track has an X5, you could kindly ask to try them out.... just to see how things go.

[OldskoolGT]

I think munim is right about the suspension slop causing rapid wear of the shock parts. When my kit was new, the shocks lasted a long time. After I rebuilt them (using Mugen parts though), the little plastic pieces did ovalize very quickly. You may also want to look at the condition of your shock shafts. If they are dull and scratched up, they will be very abrasive compared to a nice shiny shock shaft.

[Marky]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
You may also want to look at the condition of your shock shafts. If they are dull and scratched up, they will be very abrasive compared to a nice shiny shock shaft.

This could very well be the problem, i have just replaced the rear shocks (complete) due to the shafts and bores being scratch to buggery, i think i will run the boots from now on.

Marky

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by Marky
i think i will run the boots from now on.

that might be an idea....

Any reason you weren't you using them in the first place? You better have a good one! :D

[dgrobe2112]

Wow, its awful quiet in here.. just wondering what everyone is up too..

I recently purchased a Kyosho 7.5.. and it has the full racers edge kit on it now.. great kit.. looks good too.. anyway.. i bought it off a sponsored driver.. or at least i think he is.. the buggy is in great shape.. and has a great setup on it.. basically.. it handles 100 times better than my other 7.5.. (i have 2 of them, one as a spare just in case) amazing what a good setup will do..

I raced it in a series event this past weekend.. and the buggy was handling great.. the only problems i have had with this thing are little things.. there are some aluminum arms on the buggy.. and the inserts under the aluminum stripped in the 1st 2 races.. so i took the aluminum arm off.. and put in the stock servo arm.. and that fixed the problem..

I was in the B main.. way out front after 4 laps.. around 2 minutes.. i was allready lapping people.. and i was easily 3/4 lap ahead of 2nd place.. well.. i was pulling double duty that night.. i was racing my Ofna Dominator as well.. and in the confusion of racing 2 classes.. i forgot to fill the tank.. and after 2 minutes... i ran out of gas.. :mad: i was so mad.. i had to take my radio to my pit.. then run across the track.. get my car.. run back.. fill it up.. start it.. and got back on the track.. and ended up getting 4th of 10.. and on the same lap as the 3rd place guy.. so i didnt make the A main.. and i had a shot at the 2nd podium spot.. but no points.. no chance.. ended up getting 4th in the series.. and alot of heckling from my buddies.. anyway.. thats my story.. thougth i would get some of you guys to read in here.. and here is a pic of my buggy..

http://www.******.net/media/atomic2.jpg

[go1d1e]

That sa real nice setup you have there..

I love the gunmetal color of everything..

Howd you like the tires? I`d like to try some of those

[dgrobe2112]

Thye work really good on a wet packed track.. if the track has any sorta softness to it.. i run the step pins.. Panther has some good step pins check those out... also those tires are custom cut.. there are some stubs cut out on the outside..

[msuh24]

hi, i just bought a inferno 7.5 sports used from a guy. he took of the pull start. everything is stock. i can't get the damn thing started. i checked the glowplug, loostened it up a bit. i put it on the box, and it just does not start. any hints? thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

First things first.. make sure your glow ignitor is charged, or has a new battery.. then also make sure that box wheel is turning the motor correctly.. counterclockwise from the front of the buggy.. or that means the top of the flywheel turns toward the diff.. you shouldnt need to loosen the glow plug.. on a used motor. make sure that you got fuel in the tank.. and make sure that you got your fuel lines connected to the right spot in the tank.. meaning... the line from the carborator should go to the back of the fuel tank.. and the line from the exhaust pipe goes to the lid of the gas tank..

Make sure that your air filter is clean.. and also make sure that there is nothing plugging the carb, or the exhaust..

also.. you can prime the motor.. you do this like this..

start turning the motor over on the box.. with the glow ignitor on the motor.... put your finger over the exhaust stinger for a second or 2.. and that will want to flood the carb..

if it still dont start.. make sure that your needle settings are not too lean.. depends on the motor.. but make sure that your high end and low end needles are not turned in too much.. to get no fuel in the motor..

Also inspect your fuel line for leaks.. or cracks.. i suggest.. replacing all the fuel line.. easy insurance..

LEt us know what kind of motor you got.. and if you get it started..

[msuh24]

thanks so much dgrobe. i have the regular gx motor with the pull start pulled off. i've checked everything you said. and i did have the polarity wrong on my electric starter box. so now, the wheel flies to the right. it used to fly to the left. correct? after changing that, i tried to prime engine and start. it didn't work. any other tips? thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

Ok.. now that you got the polarity right.. you may want to check and make sure your needle settings are good.. your high end needle.. and your low end needle.. first thing.. you will want to take the high end needle.. the one that sticks up away from the motor.. turn it in all the way.. and then, turn it out 3-4 complete turns.. this will be a good starting point.. to make sure you are not too lean.. and on the low end.. that one is located on the side of the motor where the throttle linkage connects too.. i dont know what you should do on that one.. prolly the same amount.. round 3 turns out.. from closed.. alos.. make sure you got a charged battery in that glow stick.. is yours one with a regular battery in it.. if so.. make sure you get a new battery in there..

[KanaiDude]

Hey gang, I got a Diff question, I've rebuilt mine a few times now, Does anyone else think that the diffs are a little abrasive, like you hold it in your hand, and turn one shaft, and it feels a little rough to me, it almost wants to bind up but does'nt. I was just curious if you all thought the diffs were not very smooth. I build them exactly acording to specs, and use kyosho diff fluid 5000 7000 1000, was just curious how you all felt about the smoothness/play in them or whatever you want to call it. On another note, i just bought a racers edge 12t clutch bell, and the kysosho 48t spur, i'm wondering if you can have to much bottom end, I'm gonna find out, I run a P5, which screams as it is, i'll let you all know...

[dgrobe2112]

No matter what you do on the diff.. you will have a little metal/metal touch.. and it will sound that way.. another think is the diff oil will make noise too.. i run 3k in the front of my buggy..

You can have them too tight.. which will make it fee like it wants too lock.. what you should do is check the shims.. if there are too many shims in there it will make it too tight.. also.. it is better to be a little tight, than a little loose diff.. cuz loose diffs tend to strip the gears..

there is a such thing as too much bottom end.. when you get to the point where you are topped out on the stretch.. i got mine where it will just reach top speed just before braking for the turn.. but you gotta make sure you dont have like a 300 foot straight.. and that will make you too tall for the tight turns.. but as far as too much bottom end.. i there is a fine line between the 2.. top and bottom.. if you can find the happy median.. great..

[DR.GT]

KanaiDude:

Does that RE 12 tooth clutch bell use the standard 5x10 bearings or smaller ones? If they are smaller be prepared for bearing failure. The clutch bearings take a great amount of abuse on a 1/8
scale buggy and the load on smaller bearings will even be greater......IMHO....

:)

[KanaiDude]

Thanks for the pointers guys, very good advice from you both. Yes the 12t does take the smaller bearings, and yes that is a great point they have a better chance of failing, especially running a P5, I will still try it just to see i think. My local track back straight is maybe 150 feet? its a pretty tight track is why i'm thinking such low end. I think i will definitely give the 48 t spur a try though probably run it a weekend or two and see what i think. I think my diffs are set up just fine, glad to hear you all don't have silky smooth ones. I can't believe the power on the low and top end on the P5 it puts my last 3 Rz motors to shame really, I have good low end now with my 13t, and I am still cruising by people on the back straight, granted its only 150 feet but hey. I run the motor at the most about 250, its a bad mofo. Good luck at the track Gentleman...

[msuh24]

i finally got my kyosho inferno sports to run. unfortunately, its not fast at all. maybe my engine was a lemon, but its really slow. well, i should say slow compared to my ofna hyper 7 pbs with the hyper 21 8 port in it. if i wanted to make this buggy competitive, what should i do first? thanks for the info.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, you got the sports version.. first thing i would consider doing.. to make it competative.. is change your diffs.. or at least shim them better.. because they come with an aluminum diff gear.. i would replace those with the steel one.. on both front and rear.. not sure how much that would cost.. you can go to www.towerhobbies.com and see around how much they will run you.. or you can go to ebay.com and get a whole new diff off there.. that would probably cost you less than 100 bux for both complete diffs.. i saw that happen alot where the aluminum spur gear on the diff would strip.. or mess up..

The motor.. i think is a good motor.. but you will want to make sure you break it in good.. im sure you know how to break it in right?? from the factory it will be really fat (rich, lot of fuel running through it.. which means slow..) and thats good.. for breaking in the motor.. run around 6 tanks through the motor like that.. then after that you can start leaning the motor out.. making it faster.. go online and see different leaning procedures.. but you should know how to do that.. if you want.. i would put another motor in there. and a new header and pipe as well.. that will put you back another 3-400 bux for a good motor and pipe.. you can get a OS V99 motor for around 250.. and a Ofna 086 pipe for around 75-90 bux.. so.. check that stuff out..

If you got anymore questions.. my email address is dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[KanaiDude]

Hey I got another question, anyone have trouble installing the splash guard on there K2? there really isnt enough room for my to stick in there, and my brake pads want to rub up against it if i do jam it in there, any suggestions? Does anyone have the fioroni, or HCR front knuckles, i've heard these will increase the steering throw, is it worth it? there both costly, do the racers edge ones increase the throw at all?

[dgrobe2112]

Kanai dude, i dont know bout the splash guard. I do run all the racers edge parts on my buggy. I got the front knuckles on mine. Best investment i made.. i also cut just a little on the arms to get some more throw. Dont know if the knuckles actually made a difference by themselves.. but i cut just a little out of the arms and got some more throw..

If you are lookin for hopups for your car.. there is a complete racers edge aluminum kit for your car.. comes with alot of stuff.. go to www.kinetixrc.com and email him, and ask about the kit.. i think it will cost around 300.. not 400 like the racers edge site has it for.

check it out.. he can also get you the knuckles by themselves.. and is usually cheaper than the racers edge site as well..

www.kinetixrc.com go to the contact page and he has his number listed as well.. tell him that Daniel Grobe sent you..

[OldskoolGT]

KanaiDude

Any CNC steering knuckle will yield more steering because they can turn more before hitting the c-hubs. I run the CNC GS Storm knuckles on my Kyosho. They cost less than half of what most CNC knuckles cost (under $40).

Regarding the splash guard, try altering the mounting holes a bit with a dremel to allow it to mount further out.

[atm92484_3]

Word of advice guys; if you flip anywhere, especially if there are new guys around, make sure you call your posistion. This happened to me this Sunday right at the end of a 160' straight and I forgot to call I was there. As luck would have it, I got nailed by a Lightning.

The damage:
-1 rear shock shaft
-1 rear shock end
-1 rear Racer's Edge Pro shock tower (this is the worst part)

[munim]

Wow, you bent a RE shock tower?

Oh yeah, I suggest people stay away from the Hardcore stuff, I haven't heard much good stuff about them.Mainly quality issues.

[dgrobe2112]

Wow.. was the track rutted or what?? how you gonna flip at the end of a straight.. and usually.. you should call out your position.. but drivers should be looking ahead of their car as well.. not just driving their car.. just curious.. what happened to his car??

[wjj]

Does anyone know if the new mugen body will fit a kyosho?

[atm92484_3]

The track winds in and out and I got caught up with someone and ended up going over a pipe onto the straight. :(

I normally call my posistion, but it just kind of slipped my mind this time.

[OldskoolGT]

wjj,

Please don't post the same question over and over in different threads.

The new Mugen body fits on a Kyosho, but not very well since the 7.5 is wider than a X5.

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys yet another question, do any of you trim the last row of your tires off? I typically run crime fighters, and depending on my track sometimes give me to much bite. I've heard alot of talk by sponsored drivers about tire trimming and even making your own, like the big nats race this winter in Oklahoma, they will be makin there own tires for it all week. I'm wondering if this helps, it must a little, I would think trimming the outer set of spikes off would help stop the car from flipping going around a sharp turn at high speed? I would imagine it's a delicate ballance between your camber settings and the tire trimming though? Anyone have some thoughts on this? I was gonna look into buying the HCR knuckles, but im getting conflicting opinions, I thought HCR stuff was pretty decent just expensive, probably same as fioroni though in terms of prices and fioroni probably better?

[dgrobe2112]

kanai dude.. i have seen people cutting some spikes off of their outside row, or the 2nd in from the outside.. i have a set that a guy did for me.. i didnt notice any difference.. also, as far as the custom made tires.. i dont know if thats a good idea.. there was an article in the new RC caraction.. that showed how to do it.. but.. that looks pretty tough and to get them nice and even.. and all that seems too much trouble for me.. but sponsored guys.. and guys who have the time.. and money, and items to do it.. fine.. but not me..

[KanaiDude]

Thanks dgrobe, yea I don't really have the time to be making tires, was just interesting to me, a few of the guys at my track are going to oklahoma in jan for the nats and were taling about it. They said all the sponsored drivers show up like tues to start practing building tires etc. He said there combos on the jumps by the end of the week are pretty sic. I think i'll leave my tires alone for now and just work on my camber and toe settings for a while. Anyone have any opinions on the knuckles? besides the racers edge ones?

[dgrobe2112]

Well, those guys go up there on Tuesday and start practicing, cuz there stuff is paid for.. and thats what they do.. it is very interesting the way they make their tires.. but they got tires to blow.. and just mess up if they want too.. they will run one set.. trim it up.. cut out some spike.. run it in practice.. and if they didnt like it.. either cut again.. or just throw them away.. must be nice..

As far as the knuckles go.. Fironi makes a good set.. and JET has a good set.. if you know where to buy that stuff here online.. let me know.. but this is the website i used for my fironi parts..

http://www.rchopups.co.uk/Inferno/InfernoHomepage/InfernoHomepage.htm

they got some good stuff for the Kyosho 7.5, and of course that is no in USD.. so check out their page.. he is a good guy and replies to email pretty quick.. and said shipping to the states will be 5-7 days..

and there is a guy on ebay that sells Jet parts.. here is a link to his items on ebay.. i didnt see the knuckles on there.. but im sure you can email him and get them from him.. and they are aton cheaper than from the website..

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=dinball&sort=3&page=1&rows=50&since=-1&showpics=1&stab=0

[HauntedMyst]

I have a 7.5 RTR that I need to put a pull start motor on. I picked up the 7.5 mounts but they don't work. Has anyone ever put a pull start on their 7.5? What mounts did you use? Kyosho doesnt list any?

[dgrobe2112]

Haunted, if i am right on this.. im not sure.. but you should be able to use the regular 7.5 motor mounts.. however, you will need to get the plates that go with it. There are a set of plates that go underneath the motor mounts.. here is a link to the plates..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD24&P=7

and you will need these motor mounts.. the Kyosho requires its own motor mounts..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD25&P=7

if you got both of those.. you should be fine..

[atm92484_3]

Those will still sit too low for pullstart engines. Those and the machined 7.5 mounts are the standard ones and are designed to let non-pullstart engines sit extremely close to the chassis.

HM, what about a spacer like this one from O.S.?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMW33&P=7

Its pretty much just a block that goes inbetween the engine and the mount and raises it up a litlte bit to allow the recoil to clear.

[LJae]

when using the thin craddock brakes, do you use single per side or double per side? ( two or four total)? thanks

[dgrobe2112]

I dont use craddock brakes.. and i have single front and rear (2) total brake pads.. also.. i have my front brake tuned almost all the way out.. so there is really no front brake on my buggy.. there is no need to have 4 brake pads.. 2 total means less rotating mass.. and less weight of course..

Some guys actually take to whole front brake system out of their buggy.. and run nothing up there..

[go1d1e]

Try a combination..

I used to run 3 total, 2 up front 1 on the rear.. mainly cos i couldn`t get 2 to fit on the back on my older Inferno.. on the 7.5 i used 4..

I don`t know if they still have them, but I had fibre glass brakes (liek the cradock) in different thicknesses.. so i put a thick and thin one on each end.. also made groves in them almost like vented disks, but not all the way thru.. they worked real well.

[LJae]

thanks! i'm interested in getting craddock brake disk and wasn't sure if you could use two disk or only one per side. i seen somewhere were they only had (or could use) one per side but it was the thick disk. i wasn't sure if the thin disk had to be setup the same way or a two disk per side could be used. thanks again!!

[HauntedMyst]

Thanks ATM and dgrobe! ATM, I think those are the ticket! I'll give them a shot!

[atm92484_3]

Has anyone else heard new rumors about the release date for the K3 or the JT Racing truggy conversion? That truggy kit would be a very good excuse to get a K3 and do a conversion to my K1.... :D

[KanaiDude]

Still no real word on the K3 as far as I know, just a pic of it with a green head sirio in it, but it is questionable. I would think it will at least be next year/season before we see anything, maybe another pic this winter sometime and a little news who knows. I don't really care to much, I doubt it will blow away a K2, and i've spent mad money on my K2 lately so oh well, we'll wait and see.

[OldskoolGT]

I heard that the K3 comes out next Jan.

It's definitely not gonna blow away a K2, cause its basically the same car. Its just got a few tweaks to make it better. That's reason enough for me to want one. :)

[KanaiDude]

I supose you are right by next January I'll be like on a waiting a list or something, meanwhile i'll continue to spank some mugens around for a while ;)

[Motorman007]

the new K3 (http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/new.htm)

$572.30 US

not bad
going to get one in a month or so.. will keep you guys posted

also a other

K3 -2 (http://www.rc-sharaku.com/new_parts.html)

even cheaper

1 / 8GP buggy kit
Inferring no MP7,5
Kanai edition 3

* Righto eight main chassis -
* Large capacity rear oil damper
* New design steering wheel plate
* Form of suspension arm modification


XXYEN 58500

536.53 US


it came out in Japan the 30 of this month. so it will be here like Jan or so. maybe feb.

[atm92484_3]

Holy crap!!!!!!! I think I know what Santa's bringing this year. :D

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys off to racing tomorrow, i always hate mucking my car up but am always pretty freakin excited about hitting the track. I''ll post an after racing pic and tell you all how I did, should be a decent turnout of 15 1/8 scales.

[atm92484_3]

That body is pretty sick.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah, both of those bodies are pretty nice.. wanna sell one??

Let me know..

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys thanks for the thumbs up. I placed 11th out of 17 this weekend ouch, thought i would do better but it is my first season in gas 1/8 scale and like my 5th actual race, so I lived and learned and kept my car on the track for both qualifiers and the main so i'm happy. Hey if you all want a custom body painted I could probably hook you up, I really enjoy doing it, i have 2 crowd pleaser bodies i'm about to paint, I could potentially paint one in your choice of colors and sell it to ya, I would probably want about 40 bucks for it, 20 for the body, 5 for the mask and paint 15 for time and labor. I'll take another pic of me dirty car, and then one of my rebuild this friday with all new carbon fiber! Gotta love having the sickest looking car in the B-main ;).

[dgrobe2112]

Sounds like you had fun, and 11th out of 17 this early, not racing 1/8 isnt tha bad.. trust me you will get better, once you figure out setup.. and what to do to the car to make it better.. and all that.. i have just recently been on a good streak, hope it dont run out.. but i got the guys that win all the time, now considering me competition.. :) so you will get better.. and yeah, when you paint another body, let me know, i would love to get one from you.. email me some pics.. and we can work it out..

Laterz man.. Bmain is good too.. i got 2nd in the B main in our Nitro Invitational.. thats 12th.. and there were around 40 in the expert buggy race..

Oh yeah, you will get better.. but dont stay in the sportsman class long.. i would say, compare your lap times with the expert class.. or whatever the higher class is.. and once you start running comperable lap times.. i wouldbump up.. cleaner races in the higher class.. means better races.. and alot of improvement.. and those guys are always willing to give some setup pointers.. and help..

[KanaiDude]

They did have a sportsman class this weekend probably should have run in that but oh well, they gave the sportsman class a few more minutes in the main then the actual pro B-main race. I am having lots of fun, things I mainly need to look at our my camber and toe setting for setup, any recomendations? hey what type of clutch setup are you using? i'm using a mip clutch right now on the hard setting, i'm thinking maybe i need the light setting for more instant power. You think this clutch is inferior to 3-shoe setups? I'm running a P5.

~I am finding that driving is like listening to good music, just gotta keep the beat of the track and your fine, miss a beat and it's catch up time, and we all know how hard that can be

Hey dgrobe, I'll post again when i'm really going to lay the paint down, it might be a few weeks, but i'll give you a hollar

[dgrobe2112]

well, your right.. gotta stay in rythem with the track.. and you gotta do it for extended times.. usually songs dont last 5 minutes.. so you gotta stay in rythem for at least 5 minutes.. more if you have extended mains like 10 minute mains.. also..for a good all around setup.. this is what i am running.. its a pretty neutral setup.. but is very close to what the sponsored drivers in Austin were running..

Camber front -2 rear -2
front caster i am us the B block on both top and bottom

front toe is around -2.5 degrees on both wheels.. means that your tires arre pointed out \ / not / \ that helps in steering..

rear i am using the 2 degree suspension holder..

diff setups i got is also pretty neutral.. i had 5k in the front.. but my track is pretty tight so i changed to 3k so i wouldnt push as bad..

so i am running 3k in the front 7k in the center and 1k in the rear.. (you can run a thicker in the rear.. to make it a little more stable..)

[dgrobe2112]

Oh yeah, i forgot bout the clutches.. i have a 2 shoe clutchhard in mine.. alot of guys are running 3 shoes clutches.. and then some guys have the 3 shoe aluminum clutches.. they have crazy punch.. but they gotta alot of maintenence on those.. i think if your lookin for the quick punch.. go with the 3 shoe.. aluminum are nice.. but alot of maintenence.. and pulling the motor around every ofther weekend of races.. at least.. if not more.. depending on you length of races..

[KanaiDude]

That's pretty much my setup to a "T". So if i run 3k in the rear it won't fishtale quite as much? My only problem seems to be the rear seems a little to lose sometimes, and it's not my camber, so I'm guessing the diff or rear ride hight? is it 8mm spacers in the rear and 15's in the front, do you use the black retainer also? I'm also thinking using the hard setting on my mip clutch might not be good for off road because the engine may spool a little then take off causing me to break rear traction ocasionly, think i will try the light setting.

[dgrobe2112]

I dont know much about the clutch.. i run a 2 shoe.. and i gotta use some throttle control.. i dont have any slip in the clutch.. i gotta ease on the power... or i spin, or lose traction.. and not clear the jump..

On my buggy, i got the spring retainer on all shocks.. and a very small spacer in the rear.. you can see in this pic.. http://www.******.net/media/atomic1.jpg

and couple big ones in the front.. also.. what oil you run in your shocks.. here is my shock setup..

check the pics.. to see the spacers..

i got 50wgt oil in the front.. with the 2x1.4mm pistons..

and 30wgyt in the rear.. with the 2x1.4 pistons as well..

The setup i got from Ron atomic, who is an excellent driver. great at setup.. and did a lot of setup work on this buggy.. and got it running great.. my buggy is the standard buggy.. with the full racers edge kit.. titanium everything.. standard chassis.. i got my droop screws to where they dont show anything.. the chassis droops.. also.. i even shaved the chassis on top, where the droop screws go.. for more down travel in the arms..

[go1d1e]

Originally posted by KanaiDude
That's pretty much my setup to a "T". So if i run 3k in the rear it won't fishtale quite as much? My only problem seems to be the rear seems a little to lose sometimes, and it's not my camber, so I'm guessing the diff or rear ride hight? is it 8mm spacers in the rear and 15's in the front, do you use the black retainer also? I'm also thinking using the hard setting on my mip clutch might not be good for off road because the engine may spool a little then take off causing me to break rear traction ocasionly, think i will try the light setting.

Correct me if i`m wrong.. but i thgouth if you put heaveier in the rear, it would make it fishtale more?!

I would try going lower in the center diff, then the power would go more upfront, and make the back less twitchy? Am I right?

[dgrobe2112]

lighter oil in the rear.. will make it have more diff action.. meaning it will help you through the turns.. if you run thicker oil in the rear.. it will push more.. cuz it locks the diff more than the thinner oil.. now between 1 and 3.. you prolly wont notice much.. but as far as fishtailing.. and i am not sure what to do bout that... if lighter will make it better.. cuz better diff action.. gold1e may be right..

[KanaiDude]

Hey now that I think about it, my center seems a little tight, not to tight but maybe tight enough to be causing my loose rear, I was thinking how could I get more power to the front end in that situation, so I guess I should try 5 5 1 and see what I think? I dunno I maybe backtracking and I just should learn how to drive with the 5 7 1 though, im slowly getting the hang of turn and slide through the turns, the latest track I raced at was so big, elevation changes, big burms, the works, just wasn't ready for that I guess, sure was fun though!

[dgrobe2112]

well, i think your center diff is good.. you could drop it to 5k, if you want.. but little changes like that i dont think will make a real noticable difference.. and also.. i have have almost all of my front brake tuned out.. actually, i dont think i have any front brake in mine at all.. that will help you in the turns as well..

[DR.GT]

Things I have found....

There are 2 things that are the most important for getting the 7.5 to run good other than the proper tires for the track and good working suspension.

1. The clutch is very important. This is where the Pros excel! I have found that the 3 shoe K composite (cut 1/8") with the 1.0 springs works excellent with my WS7. I have used the aluminum shoes (a bit more bite.... but more maintanence). I also use a one piece RB 9886 pipe with a long manifold and tune the WS7 rich on the bottom end. This gives great punch and great top end. If more bottom end is needed then use the 48 tooth spur gear (short track).

On a real short track ( 100' straight) I use a OS V01B/ 9886 one piece pipe/ maybe a waller adapter/ and definitely the 48 tooth spur gear/ same clutch setup as above.

The OS has tremendous bottom end (3 port) compared to the WS7. Using the OS on a larger track I use the stock 46 tooth spur gear and a 14 tooth clutch bell to get the top end close to the WS7 (7 port).

2. As to diff setups I use a LSD in the front (more steering), 7000 in the center and 3000 in the rear as a standard setup. I do not change this much as I find throttle control and clutch are much more important to being successful.

Adjusting the diff weights depends on your driving style. The above setup works well if you can drive relatively smooth. The 7000 in the center gives the drive to the car. The LSD gives me great turn in and the 3000 some good drive from the rear. If your track is slippery then you may want to go to 1000 or grease in the rear (the diff will unload easier and drive around the corner more) but will not have the snap of 3000W. If you have a heavy throttle finger then you can flip out the rear end of the car much easier with 3000W on a slippery track.

If you drop the center diff weight you will notice that your car feels more of a front drive pulling you and you'll have less acceleration. With a standard diff in front I find 5000W the best ( this seems to mesh well with the 7000W in the center). I find that
5000W in the center does not give me enough punch and I have to drive harder to get up to speed especially if there are jumps right after the corner to make them consistantly.

If you run a really slippery track and you have a heavy throttle finger you can try 3000/5000/1000 or grease. This may help you stay between the pipes....

As to brakes, my front brakes are hardly noticable, but still there. But I can lock up the rears anytime I want. With to much front brakes you will lose turn in under power (push) and the car will get skidderish at the end of a straight on heavy braking.

I have driven electric 4WD for many years and the trick is to set up your 1/8 so that you can drive it smooth like an electric 4WD. You will be very fast if you can accomplish this.

Hope this helps some of ya!

:D

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys thanks so much for all the great pointers, I will use them all in my next rebuild, am looking forward to putting the 48t gear on there, changing my clutch setup, putting my waller adapt on etc etc.

Hey saw this on ebay, not the best seller, but still pretty darn interesting...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3154436592&category=49213

not worth that moeny but I would imagine I will see more of these on there soon enough.

[MWkid19]

Originally posted by KanaiDude
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1205817

Nice buggy.

[dgrobe2112]

Pics of my Kyosho 7.5

http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/9.jpg
http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/10.jpg

http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/12.jpg
http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/0.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Very nice pics. What camera are you using?

[dgrobe2112]

Some local guy is taking them.. he has a really big lengs on the front.. and its digital.. so i bet is pretty high dollar..

[RCisLife]

KanaiDude

Awesome bodies man!!!!!!! How can I contact you to paint me one.. and how much will you charge ??

my email is: asalsero@yahoo.com

Everyone:

I've had a Kyosho MP 7.5 for some time now in storage and I'm now getting her out. Its just been sitting there looking pretty... but now I have a lot more time to really get back into the RC Racing Jive.. It has a Hitec HS5945 digital steering servo an Airtronics 94257 coreless throttle, RB 9886 pipe and manifold, novak xxtra, with an M8... but missing a good engine it deserves.. What do you guys recommend? I will be using her for racing in the future and want an engine or two that's going to push her. I've researched the RB WS7 II, OS VZ, P5, and Sirio.. but still undecisive.
Any suggestions or recommendations is much appreciated.. are any of you guys racing with this engines?

[dgrobe2112]

i think the RB motor.. is definitly the motor to beat..

i have heard some bad stuff about the OS VZB.. not lasting long enough.. very fast.. but last around 1-2 gallons.. and thats is..

The P5 is a great motor.. fast.. and strong..

Dont know much about the sirio motors..

The Picco XP .21 has tons of top end speed..

I am running the OS .21 RZ Vo1B.. i got over 4 gallons in it.. and still running strong.. still has a pinch to it..

[KanaiDude]

RCisLife- thanx for the Kudos, I can probably paint you one, but I can't say for sure, i have 2 extras to paint right now, but it depends on when I get around to doing it, I would probably want around 45 dollars, or like 50 shipped usps, the body is 20, mask is 3-5, and paint a few bucks, so the time would be like 20 bucks. I will email you if I can do it in the next week or two, i have several different masks and tons of paint. As far as the motor, I run a P5 and am very impressed with it, it's a solid motor with a ton power, i've run like a gallon or two, and i feel as though this motor is just now broken in, it's a bad a*% puppy, I also have a sirio NIB that I may break out sometime in the summer, In my opinion these 2 motors are at the very top. Dgrobe is running a V01B, this is also a great motor, and very reliable, and very fast, I've run a few RZ motors, and just in my opinion, i feel the P5 has a slight edge in bottom end power, and you gotta love the novarossi purple head, although i got a nice gray odonnell on mine now, if you get a P5 make sure to run it rich, it doesn't need leaned much at all, I find it makes more power when running rich if you constantly punch the throttle... I'll be in touch if I get the oodles to paint soon.

[uDi_MP75]

Does the P5 have anything more on topend than the V01? Just out of curiosity.

I'm running a V01b right now, and am looking around for a new engine, in no hurry. Looking for something that will scream on top, and still have a reasonable low/midrange. Just an insane engine to bash with.

Been thinking a C5, maybe circuit - also looked at this
http://www.novarossi.it/motori_ing/21/rx21rr.html
rx21 rallygame.... really pricey here though so im not sure. anyone by any chance seen one go?

also last q - the difference between the JP and regular nova's for anyone that's tried both - is it a big difference? is it even noticeable? I'm just curious, because the price difference is pretty noticeable. Say a JP-P5 and a nova P5, someone's gotta have seen those..

[dgrobe2112]

Not too sure on the overall difference in speed between the P5, and the VO1.. i know that the p5 at our track has insane speed.. and is limited to the power he can use because of the track.. i know the C5 is a bad dawg.. it flat screams.. also.. the JP modified is supposed to be as close to a Team motor as you can get.. like your sponsored drivers..

That VO1 you got is a great motor.. i run one.. and love it.. i just sent it to OS rocket.. and got it squeezed.. and got it back very quick.. i am in the process of breaking it in right now... but the first crank... started right up.. but when it died.. right at top dead center.. and needed a screw driver to get it out of TDC... Will keep you posted..

My VO1 that i got in my buggy.. that i race with right now.. still got some pinch to it.. and it is flat fast.. i run with those RB motors.. and the P5.. actually.. on the straight.. i pulled that P5.. and had to let off so i didnt hit him...

[KanaiDude]

The P5, V01, WS 7 II, C5, all these engine are incredible performers, and all have slightly different racing characteristics, the v01 does scream up top as well as the C5, but that is with more or less stock gearing, I bet I could almost sacrifice and use a 14t clutch bell with my P5 and get somewhere right in the same powerband as the v01, after running 3 rz motors, i like the switch to the p5, it just seems like a slightly more solid motor, but I do know alot of sponsored drivers still stick to there vo1 for sheer power and consistency. I am running a 48t spur and 13t bell on my p5 and OMG the bottom end is sick, I am running at a huge track tomorrow and will probably have to switch the spur gear out though. As far as the black JP modified P5, i think its one bad a*% motor, I think it would put a little bit of spank on any of the engines listed above. I have a NIB sirio im waiting till mid season i think, but it is also suposed to be insanely powerful, i have 2 sirio .12's and they are both awesome motors.

[RCisLife]

KanaiDude..
For 50 bucks.. I will definitely take one. If you are ever free to getting around to painting again.. please let me know. I can forward the payment via PayPal or which ever other method you prefer.

Thanks to everyone for the info regarding the engines.. I have chosen to purchase a P5 within the next few weeks. I will give a post as to the outcome of this puppy when I break her in. What site? dealers? or ebay stores have the Novarossi P5 at the best price?

Where do all of you guys shop for Kyosho parts?

[dgrobe2112]

First off, i suggest you go to your local hobby shop for your parts and stuff.. now i know they may be a little more expensive than say EBAY.. but if you support your local shop.. it will ensure it will be around. As far as shopping for parts.. i suggest ebay.. there is a guy on there who sell brand new parts straight out of a kit.. for dirt cheap. not sure of his screen name.. but he is good.. and shipping is fast..

Laterz

[KanaiDude]

I would agree with you dgrobe2112, unfortunately my closest shop is two hours so i am forced to subject you all to EBAY torment, I do apologize. Here is a link to a reputable engine dealer on there, I got mine for 250 off ebay, this one is 275, but I waited around for a 250 buy it now to pop up and got a little lucky.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3168354605&category=34062

oh and I shop for parts here...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=KYOC0562&P=Z

[RCisLife]

Yesterday I made a purchase on this New RB WS7II on ebay, I'm pumped.. anxious to get this puppy fired up in my 7.5.. I have attached the link below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3168697222&category=49213&rd=1


I still have my eyes peeled for the P5. I've been researching this engine for sometime and found this dealer in Hong Kong "RC-Mushroom" with a list price of $235.. not bad. But shipping should cost an arm and a leg.. plus the security and risk level I take of getting it lost in Freight. I think I'll take KanaiDude's suggestion and wait until I can score one for $250 or less on a Buy it Now option off of eBay.
I'll post feedback on this engine and how it performs as soon as I have my hands on it.

[RCisLife]

Check out these talks regarding the Newer Novarossi P5 T (Turbo). Have any of you own or have seen the performance in comparison with the original P5 engine?? I'm still focused in getting one of these bad boys.. but after further research.. there are two P5's available. Is there any negative feedback you've heard of regarding the newer P5 T ?? Please post your thoughts... Here's a link about conversation with owners regarding this..

http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/showthread/t-11025.html

There's one on ebay for $275 for the P5 or P5T.. I'm still hopeful in scoring one for a bit less.. but if no one offers them for $250 or less.. then I have no choice but to take one at 275.

[dgrobe2112]

As far as perfomance, i dont know.. but there is also a JP modified P5 you can get which is about as close to a Team drivers motor you can get. I also know that in ROAR, or any other sanctioned races.. you are not allowed to run a turbo plug motor.

[RCisLife]

dgrobe: Thanks for the info.. I didn't know that turbo engines were not permitted in racing.
On another note.. I haven't been able to find the P5 engine lower than $275 + Shipping. I found one for $265 + but the person who is selling lives in CA and charges taxes.. that would be more than the other priced. I'll give it a couple of weeks and see if anything changes.. if you'll see something for around $250 + shipping for a brand new P5 please let me know.
I received my brand new RB WS7II a few days ago.. and she looks sweet. I haven't had time to fire the puppy up.. but I'm hoping either this coming weekend or the following I'll begin the break-in process.
I have a few more questions.. this time concerning good clutch shoes (aluminum or plastic)?? and what brand?? what size springs?? in essence.. I need a complete kit.. what do you guys have on yours??

Thanks again

[dgrobe2112]

I use mugen 1.0 springs.. but that is with the VO1 motor.. i use the regular shoes.. basically, because aluminum shoes require so much maintenence.. i know someone who is running a WS7 motor.. and uses 1.2 springs, and regular shoes with a hole drilled in them..

[RCisLife]

I heard the same continuous maintenance for those aluminum shoes.. but after further research.. I've read extremely good remarks on the Fiorini Turbo Sliding Clutch kits "carbon". They retail about $55 or so give and its the complete kit. I'll try to find a link to let you all know what I'm talking about.

[dgrobe2112]

I know which one your talkin about.. those i heard are pretty good.. i wouldnt mind getting one.. but my LHS dont carry that stuff. so i would rather get what the shop has just in case i break something..

[KanaiDude]

KanaiDude here with my ebay banter again, I just got a fioroni sliding clutch off there for 50 dollars shipped, pretty good deal. I will post as soon as I use it, maybe a month or two though, I've got a nice set of alluminum shoes on there right now. I think the alluminum is a little finicky, but it sure has great snap and just feels powerful, I also always at least unbolt my engine after every race day, so the maintenance is not a big deal IMO... here is a link to the ebay page...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3168355391&category=34063&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT&rd=1

I've used both traditional clutches and the K2 alluminum shoes, I like the alluminum...

here is a nice traditional clutch setup I really like the k-factory bells
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSC1&P=7

Tower also carries the alluminum clutch shoes specifically for the K2
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNL9&P=Z

[dgrobe2112]

RCisLife, just went through the roar rule book.. and i apologize.. bu the turbo plugs are allowed in .21 open class.. so you should have no problem with that.. im sorry bout that.. but they dont allow those plugs in the .12 class.. which is for my GT.. my bad man..

So with that said. what is a turbo plug.. what does it do..

[NoleC5]

For you guys that use Mugen shoes, are you also using a Kyosho clutch? I've tried to put the mugen shoes and springs on a kyosho clutch and it didn't seem like the springs were gong to fit on the kyosho flywheel.

[OldskoolGT]

Some mugen springs do fit on the Kyosho flywheel, and some don't. Their spring tolerances seem to vary a bit (even among springs in the same package). Ofna gold springs will fit on a Kyosho flywheel though without any problems.

[uDi_MP75]

I'm running Kyosho 1.0 springs with a set of aluminium shoes a friend in canada cnc machined for me. So far i'm happy with it, i've only opened it up and cleaned up the shoes a few times. The more often you do it, the better your clutch performance is, but its not that huge a deal. Then again I don't drive as much as you racers likely do.

Turbo plugs h