HPI Savage SS Forum [Archive] - Page 2

Walter

01-23-2004, 06:24 AM

If you bust your roto start or pullstarter, oneways ect. all the time heres a good mod. With the stock 25 and 21 engines you can remove the starter assembly completly until the shaft is only left sticking through the back plate. Get a 6mm I.D diff drive cup , file or dremel a flat spot on the starter shaft and install drive cup on the shaft. I use an old MIP CVD from an Inferno for a start shaft, you can use a long dog bone as well. You will have file/Dremel the cross member slightly, till you see the aluminum tube inside for clearance. Use locktite on the set screw!! I have been usuing this mod for 3 years on my Ofna based engines with the pin/ramp engine starters without a failure. Be sure to use a drill with a clutch, set it to slip fairly easily and you will break no more starters.
Walter

wrxdan

01-23-2004, 11:54 AM

Originally posted by Walter
If you bust your roto start or pullstarter, oneways ect. all the time heres a good mod. With the stock 25 and 21 engines you can remove the starter assembly completly until the shaft is only left sticking through the back plate. Get a 6mm I.D diff drive cup , file or dremel a flat spot on the starter shaft and install drive cup on the shaft. I use an old MIP CVD from an Inferno for a start shaft, you can use a long dog bone as well. You will have file/Dremel the cross member slightly, till you see the aluminum tube inside for clearance. Use locktite on the set screw!! I have been usuing this mod for 3 years on my Ofna based engines with the pin/ramp engine starters without a failure. Be sure to use a drill with a clutch, set it to slip fairly easily and you will break no more starters.
Walter

But once the engine starts doesn't it try to spin the drill since there is no one way bearing? Or does the drill clutch allow to the engine to spin itself?

Walter

01-23-2004, 05:19 PM

The shaft on the engine has a ramp and spring loaded pin arrangment that only locks up in the direction to start the engine, when the engine starts it diengages. It's a great set up, I wish the Picco 26 was the same way!
Walter

Mossdog

01-27-2004, 12:52 AM

Thats a great starter mod Walter. (I jotted that one down!) I have the Picco in my Savage.....Heres Mossdogs Monster. Lots more pics of Hpi trucks at my webpage...

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

Needler56

01-31-2004, 12:33 AM

i just installed the hpi adjustable upper arms and followed the instructions on the hpi website and the wheels butterfly out. what's the problem?

Mossdog

01-31-2004, 11:54 AM

I have read that the plastic must be drilled deeper, or cut the rod down a bit so that the tires can properly be set up.......good luck.

Needler56

01-31-2004, 12:11 PM

thanks moss. what have you guys done?

HPICasper

02-01-2004, 09:12 PM

i have been snoopin round this Savage SS thread and i think and most likely will be gettin one. it looks like a sweet truck. any comments are welcome. kind of looking for some input on the truck and if it really is a good durable truck

thanks HPICasper

Needler56

02-01-2004, 11:31 PM

an employee at my lhs once told me "when a tmaxx runs into a tree, the tmaxx blows up-when a savage runs into a tree, the tree blows up" lol

goodjerm

02-01-2004, 11:57 PM

I heard that! I ran into my buddy's Chevy S-10 with my SS at about 25 mph and the S-10 shook like there was an earthquake. The Savage just bounced off and kept going without a scratch!

XXXtacy

02-02-2004, 12:53 AM

Well, let's see... I've just started my 5th gallon of fuel, and here is my broken parts list:

1. Spur gear

That's it. I'm finished. :D

EDIT: OK I lied. I managed to wear out a set of clutch shoes too.

raderrustler

02-03-2004, 10:53 PM

Well I have not been so lucky, here is my list:

Three potted plants
1 ceramic bunny in the flower bed
At least ten sprinkler heads
two shock towers on my excellerator when I ran it over with the savage......

Oh...broken parts on savage.......savage...broken parts? hmmm
NONE!....yet, but tomorrow is another day
Randy

VMach

02-03-2004, 11:27 PM

Originally posted by raderrustler
Well I have not been so lucky, here is my list:

Three potted plants
1 ceramic bunny in the flower bed
At least ten sprinkler heads
two shock towers on my excellerator when I ran it over with the savage......

and a partridge in a pear tree!!! lol

I myself have worn out afew parts but from crashes and things like that I've only broken one hub. Just moved it over to the other side and i was back in business!

newnitrofan

02-15-2004, 11:24 AM

Hmmm on the subject of broken parts I have broken

A stock tire ( because I cut it)
Diff casings were torqued a little bit
One way bearing or two and that's really about it.

henry_huckem

02-21-2004, 01:25 AM

broken parts?? well so far..

dog bone, 4-5 spurs, gas tank mounts, engine mount, body mounts, roll bar (lol)

then again, I'm the guy you see jumping my truck over your minivan across the street... :rolleyes:

-matt

wheeleze

02-21-2004, 03:49 AM

Lets start with suspension:
busted both stock shock towers
bent both GH Alum. adj. shock towers
bent shock shafts and blew stock shock caps on front L/R & 2x REAR L/R
Bent all 8 HR TI 3x10mm screws for HB shocks.
popped the cap on one HB shock.
Roll Bar???? :rolleyes: Upgrade to TI? :rolleyes:
Now, I need to pull apart my front diff's in order to find out where the oil is coming from. Can U guess??? diff mod? 3k front?

Moral of the story: How do you land 12-15" of air in 1/8 scale???

1/8=12-15 -> 1=8(12-15) -> 1 = 96-120!!! Full scale...

egdinger

02-21-2004, 08:05 PM

Was all that from one crash?

Moral of the story: How do you land 12-15" of air in 1/8 scale???

On your wheels:D

wheeleze

02-21-2004, 10:32 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by egdinger
Was all that from one crash?

Two actually.

1. 12-15" off an 8 foot BMX launch and lost sight of it before it landed... after the shocktowers broke, and roll-bar bent, it was on it's wheels :rolleyes: Lost 1/2 inch in length 1.5 in height.

2. Launched 10-12 feet off of a house pad. Used to much brakes to correct the 'flight', didn't get on the throttle quick enough and endoed. Lost 1/4 inch in length and height.

egdinger

02-21-2004, 11:50 PM

Wow, those sound like bad crashes. I havn't broken anything, but I only have one tank through it, it got to cold to break in. on the first jump do you mean 12 to 15 feet, or inches?

wheeleze

02-22-2004, 01:27 AM

Originally posted by egdinger
Wow, those sound like bad crashes. I havn't broken anything, but I only have one tank through it, it got to cold to break in. on the first jump do you mean 12 to 15 feet, or inches?

" was a typo... should of been '. I'm off-roading, so inches don't count :)

The Savage is one tough truck that I got for bashing. I'm just over 2 gallons and driving it HARD. I've jumped a LOT without any problems. I was starting to get dissapointed in my inability to break the thing... but, 'now' I have a reason to do more mods.

1 Bad STi

03-01-2004, 03:20 PM

Do yourself a favor! Go buy these slicks! The hold up well! Dynamite Super Slicks*

Toyotatogo

03-01-2004, 03:59 PM

why would you want slick tires for a truck built for off-road? :confused:

1 Bad STi

03-02-2004, 10:28 AM

can you say S-k-a-t-e-p-a-r-k..............:D

Needler56

03-02-2004, 11:45 AM

how well does the truck do at a skatepark?

wheeleze

03-02-2004, 02:33 PM

Originally posted by Needler56
how well does the truck do at a skatepark?

I haven't taken my savage to a skatepark, but I'd guess it's just as fun as, if not funner, than my rc10t3. But, then again, concrete & wood is so much harder than dirt that one bad spill at the skatepark goes deeper into the wallet than anything else i've driven on.

1 Bad STi

03-03-2004, 01:33 PM

its rather fun, just have to be very careful.....

wheeleze

03-03-2004, 01:40 PM

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
its rather fun, just have to be very careful.....

Isn't 'careful fun' an oxymoron? :D

Needler56

03-03-2004, 01:42 PM

has anyone upgrading their shocks? i've read that the integy piggy back shocks are good with the savage stock shafts(because the integy ones warp) the hot bodies coilovers same deal, and that the hot bodies with the spacers are good too because their internals keep it them from blowing out..

wrxdan

03-04-2004, 10:16 PM

I just got finished building the SS. Is the tank suppose to be that loose??? I upgraded to the Savage 25 tank, used both rubber o-rings and large clips. It still seems too loose to where it would cause foaming. I added a washer under each o-ring and it seemed to tighten it up but still has some play?

Also, I have the top tie-rods tighten up all the way and still see a little + camber?? I am use to on-road so maybe I’m thinking the truck should be tighter then what a truck normally is? I would like to see more – camber.

wheeleze

03-04-2004, 11:46 PM

Needler56: I upgraded to the HB high performance shocks, since they're an aluminum version of the savage stock shocks and can use any of the stock parts for replacement. I've only blown out one HB shock cap and it was upside down with the tires on the ground :rolleyes: I think you'll end up bending the shafts, no matter which shock you upgrade to if you plan on bashing, due to the design of the upper a-arms; no protection.

wrxdan: The 25 RTR tank has the same amount of play as the stock SS tank. The slop is there to remove foaming that would be caused by the vibration of the engine. I'd recommend a tank guard, then take out just enough slop to keep the tank from hitting the guard.

You'll appreciate the 25 RTR tank upgrade, since it lean's out less when the fuel level drops. The only way I know of fixing the fuel leaning problem is to set up a piggyback tank so the weight of the fuel from such a large tank doesn't affect flow as drastically.

wrxdan

03-05-2004, 09:32 AM

Haaaa... my poor mans rotor start works!! Consists of roto start back plate with gears, extra NTC3 main drive shaft (grinded down
a little), and my cordless drill. The drill has way more then enough power to turn over the .25.

i also did the monster pirate steering mod. I wish I checked play in the steering before I finished building the truck. The monster pirate clears everything fine but is a little shorter then the stock steering arm. It could use a few washers to take some of the slack out. But I don't want to tear it all a part just for that. I'll wait till I have another reason to tear in apart.

XXXtacy

03-05-2004, 03:14 PM

Originally posted by wrxdan
I just got finished building the SS. Is the tank suppose to be that loose??? I upgraded to the Savage 25 tank, used both rubber o-rings and large clips. It still seems too loose to where it would cause foaming. I added a washer under each o-ring and it seemed to tighten it up but still has some play?

Also, I have the top tie-rods tighten up all the way and still see a little + camber?? I am use to on-road so maybe I’m thinking the truck should be tighter then what a truck normally is? I would like to see more – camber.

I solved the loose tank issue with a little fuel tubing on the posts. It's also a good idea to split a piece of tubing lengthwise and put it on the tvp under the tank.

I didn't have the + camber problem on my SS, but a couple of guys I know with SS's did, and ended up shaving a couple threads off the rod. I've also seen some others mention this... I have no idea why some trucks have this problem and others don't :confused: . Matter of fact, I was able to dial in -1 and didn't touch the rods...

wheeleze

03-05-2004, 03:48 PM

Originally posted by XXXtacy
I was able to dial in -1 and didn't touch the rods...

My min is -3 camber, but the lunsford tie-rods bind up to much, so I keep it around -0.5...

In addition to cutting off some threads, I've heard people drill out their upper a-arms also. Personally, cutting the threads sounds easier with less chance for ruining parts.

jgrs4

03-29-2004, 06:32 PM

Does any body know were to get Savage SS stickers? I used the ones that came with my kit, and I want to do another body with thoes stickers. :confused:If anyone knows, that would be great.

wrxdan

03-29-2004, 11:27 PM

My clutch shoes are toast after 7 tanks, 3 of those were break in. What gives? I wonder if my slipper is not working. I never messed with it out of the box. But I tried to make it slip by holding the tires and using my thumb to turn the spur gear. Nope it's solid! These clutch shoes seem tiny for such a big truck.

Does anyone else have squeaky dogbones? Mine sound like a frickin tank when the truck rolls. I was going to grease them but I would think that would attract more dirt?

metred

04-01-2004, 09:30 PM

Just wanted to know if any of you have tried the hot bodies 46 conversion kit yet, it looks interesting but curious to know how well the tranny and diffs will hold up to it, Thanks!

Breakin2

04-09-2004, 10:21 AM

How difficult is it to build one of these? I've built a couple electric cars before, but never a nitro.

dmrcflyr2

04-13-2004, 12:40 PM

I just put an XTM 24.7 into my Savage SS. What a great engine!! I can't say enough about it. Easter Sunday I was running my truck in my street and jumping from my skateboard ramp about a 15" jump. I was nailing landings great until a small child came riding by on his bike and distracted me for a moment and I did not roll off the throttle at the right moment. My Savage landed on the rear bumper and the engine immediately stopped. Initially it looked like the engine had shifted on the mounting holes. After I took the engine off the truck I noticed a crack in the crankcase running from the back plate cover accross the top of the mounting lug area then it took a 90 degree turn at the main bearing and continued downward around the bottom of the case!! The truck was going approximately 10 mph when I hit the ramp and it only dropped 24" at max.

I was quite surprised at this extent of the damage for such a minor incident. The engine mount did not break, but the Roto Start backplate had damage to one of the mounting holes, but yet there was no damage to the engine backplate mounting hole. The really bad news is that the engine was only on its 8th tank of fuel. I have contacted Hobby People Customer Service to see if there is anything they can do for me.

Has anyone else cracked a crankcase before? Several responses on other forums suggest this is a common occurence. Anyone here experienced this?

Thank you.

savss

04-22-2004, 01:25 PM

How difficult is it to build one of these? I've built a couple electric cars before, but never a nitro.

Not difficult at all. I built mine with just three months
of RC exprience.

O/T: Is there a way I can prevent the blisters I get betwin
my fingers, fron the pullstarter? Can I replace the T with a
loop, or something. I don't really want the Roto-Start.

Saboteur

04-22-2004, 10:28 PM

Does everyone like this vehicle more than a Tmaxx 2.5? I'm still trying to debate on what to get. Nothing to do serious bashing with but I'd just like the ability to climb up some curbs and run over these rocks/bricks that ruin my front A arms on my stadium truck. :(

TexasPete

05-13-2004, 06:14 PM

My Order finally arrives tomorrow after almost 2 month wait! Does anyone have any tips on putting this thing together? Ive notice alot of talk about slop, what is this and how do i deal with it? Any Savage knowledge would be greatly appreciated. I want the assembly process to go as smoothly and as quickly as possible yet be a quality job.

TexasPete

05-24-2004, 02:21 PM

Well, I got my SS together after about 6 nights of building after work! Went to break it in this Saturday and I could only get the thing to start 2 times. I began to play with then carb adjustments and ended up not being able to start the thing at all. Sunday, I tried again with a new attitude. Reset all the needles, and after several tries I began to get it started on a regular basis, but it would still stall everytime after no more than 45 seconds. My friend ordered an RTR the same time I ordered my SS. We hooked up his tank and fuel lines. I used the pull start to prime and low and behold, my SS ran his tank out with out so much as a sputter. Is the problem my fuel tank, or do different tanks require different carb adjustments. Can anyone help me with this. It is a pain in the butt to watch your buddy breakin in his Savage while you are developing blisters trying to figure out whats wrong with yours.

dense metal

05-25-2004, 07:23 AM

Most likely an air leak....from the tank. The SS has a primer doesn't it? Anyway get a RTR tank for 12-15 bucks and be done with it... ;)

TexasPete

05-25-2004, 10:30 AM

I did a leak test on the tank and did not see any airbubbles. Anyway, I ordered a RTR tank just in case. Also ordered a small tank to do the the dual tank mod. Should be here Thursday. Hopefully that will take care of the problem and Ill be up AND runnin by the weekend.

Thanks for the input dense metal

jmcn r

05-26-2004, 09:49 PM

wow, great timing. i havent had this issue so far, but i know MANY SS owners complain about the self lean issue.
just how bad is it exactly? i am going to change my tank, and i would like to put an order in ASAP since i am ordering a batch of stuff on saturday.
for my SS i geuss i will be getting the stock RTR tank, are there any downsides to that? and if i go for the dual tank mod (strong possibility) at the same time, what sort of benefits can i expect?

thanks, i will try check again soon. not around a comp too much now. need to know so i can order next time i sit down in front of one of these things.

thanks in advance for any help/advice. :)

jmcn r

05-27-2004, 02:07 AM

ooooo, i am back. i forgot to ask, what glow plugs would anybody reccomend for my S-25? only change to it is an Ofna 1/8th filter and i am in muggy Florida climate. Is the standard HPI medium cold plug what i should stick with? or is there a nicer option anyone uses from O.S.?

also, anyone use any of the fuels available from tower? im thinking of ordering from there maybe, probably the o'donnell stuff.
suggestions? :)

wheeleze

05-27-2004, 03:04 AM

I've been using OS A5 in the S-25 per HPI's website. they have a list of different plugs for different engines, but I've misplaced the link.

As for fuel, I like the O'donnell racing fuel from Tower. But, I am a newbie to nitro... Anyother ideas/opinions out there?

carguy_no1

05-31-2004, 01:16 AM

hey guys, check out the body that i painted for my savage. the flames were layed out freehand. some have said that it is "simple" but sometimes it is better to keep it simple.

speedydave

05-31-2004, 03:38 AM

I use O'Donnell Race (20% for my smallblocks and 30% for my bigblocks) exclusively, and I love it. Almost everyone at my track uses it, too. It's great stuff.

wheeleze

05-31-2004, 03:54 PM

hey guys, check out the body that i painted for my savage. the flames were layed out freehand. some have said that it is "simple" but sometimes it is better to keep it simple.

Very nice job there carguy! That'll look good on the track and display :)

Speedydave:
I'm running 20%. Doesn't the 30% run hotter than the 20% when tuned correctly?

jmcn r

06-01-2004, 12:59 AM

I use O'Donnell Race (20% for my smallblocks and 30% for my bigblocks) exclusively, and I love it. Almost everyone at my track uses it, too. It's great stuff.

thanks for the info speedydave and wheeleze. :)

TexasPete

06-18-2004, 04:25 PM

I completed the dual tank mod last week. It seems to be working like a charm by eliminating the leaning issue of the stock tank. How many have preformed this mod and has anyone experienced the following problem?

PROBLEM:From all the posts I have read the header tank should run out after the main tank has expired. With my truck the engine leans out severely for an extended amount of time and then stalls as my main tank expires leaving a full header tank. The leaning is significantly more severe than when a normal stock tank runs out of fuel. I am sure that if this keeps happening I will end up ruining my engine. My fuel filter is mounted between the main tank and the header if that happens to mean anything. Also my supply nipple is slightly lower than the carb feed due to my bracket construction.

Can anyone tell me how to correct this problem?

These trucks are as much fun as frustrating and vice versa

wheeleze

06-19-2004, 04:55 AM

I completed the dual tank mod last week. It seems to be working like a charm by eliminating the leaning issue of the stock tank. How many have preformed this mod and has anyone experienced the following problem?

PROBLEM: (clip)
The leaning is significantly more severe than when a normal stock tank runs out of fuel. (clip)
My fuel filter is mounted between the main tank and the header if that happens to mean anything.

Can anyone tell me how to correct this problem?

Well, I haven't done the dual tank mod, but I think I understand the physics. (please correct me where I'm wrong)
The header tank is 'suppose' to balance out the pressure difference that is created as a LARGE capacity tank becomes empty, i.e., even though there is less and less fuel pushing on the main output, the weight in the header tank remains constant, at least until the header starts to empty. Ideally, there is no way to eliminate the leaning issue on a pressure driven system as long as there is gravity, since every output looses pressure as the fuel above the output is spent. BUT, it is possible to cushion the difference with a header tank. As the header feeds the carb, it relies on the pressure of the input line and the weight of the fuel. The leaning issue lessens since the pressure caused by the weight of the fuel in the header tank is much greater than the pressure in the output line on the main tank, if the main tank is full or empty. So, keeping the header full until your last run not only saves you the hassle of refilling it, but you wont have to worry about the decrease in pressure from the header constantly leaning the fuel mixture.

Now, with that said...
1. you might want to get another charm :rolleyes:
2. you might want to put your fuel filter between your header tank and carb., since the header tank will get dirty as you fill it and unspent fuel sits in it.
3. are you sure you fixed the previous problem with your fuel system you mentioned in May, or did you just swap tanks? My point being: it might not have been your tank. Airleaks occur commenly on the carb and engine backplate as well as the fuel lines and tank.
4. do you have your header tank set in series with the main tank? (I ask this question because I do tech support! I'm not trying to insult anyone :))
You should be able to follow your fuel line from your exhaust pressure line to the carb as follows:

| (pressure line from exhaust to
| pressure input on main tank.
| Nothing new here!)
V
__________
| Main Fuel |
| Tank |
|_________|
| (From fuel output on Main Tank
| to pressure input on Header)
V
------------
| header |
| tank |
------------
| (From fuel output on Header
| to carb. input)
|
v
|-------|
| fuel |
| filter |
---------
|
v
(Carb.)

5. since header tanks are commonly used to balance out the pressure in helicopters, I wouldn't think that it matters that your header output is slightly lower than the carb input, considering that helicopters rarly fly level.

(side note)
I've even read somewhere that there are helicopter brackets for the hayes 2oz tank, which fit nicely on adjustable shock towers. Anyone know where to get them?

TexasPete

06-19-2004, 01:00 PM

Now, with that said...
1. you might want to get another charm :rolleyes:
2. you might want to put your fuel filter between your header tank and carb., since the header tank will get dirty as you fill it and unspent fuel sits in it.
3. are you sure you fixed the previous problem with your fuel system you mentioned in May, or did you just swap tanks? My point being: it might not have been your tank. Airleaks occur commenly on the carb and engine backplate as well as the fuel lines and tank.
4. do you have your header tank set in series with the main tank? (I ask this question because I do tech support! I'm not trying to insult anyone :))
You should be able to follow your fuel line from your exhaust pressure line to the carb as follows:

| (pressure line from exhaust to
| pressure input on main tank.
| Nothing new here!)
V
__________
| Main Fuel |
| Tank |
|_________|
| (From fuel output on Main Tank
| to pressure input on Header)
V
------------
| header |
| tank |
------------
| (From fuel output on Header
| to carb. input)
|
v
|-------|
| fuel |
| filter |
---------
|
v
(Carb.)

5. since header tanks are commonly used to balance out the pressure in helicopters, I wouldn't think that it matters that your header output is slightly lower than the carb input, considering that helicopters rarly fly level.

(side note)
I've even read somewhere that there are helicopter brackets for the hayes 2oz tank, which fit nicely on adjustable shock towers. Anyone know where to get them?

Wheeleze, lot of good insight here. Are you an engineer by any chance?

Anyway, let me address your comments:

1. I was actually thinking about picking up a rabbits foot but the gas station was fresh out!
2. I moved the fuel filter. It is now between the header and the carb inlet.
3. I believe that I did fix the previous problem. Apparently there was an air leak in the pressure line from the tuned pipe to the tank. Once I replaced that line, I was able to get consistent starts and runs and I was able to finish the break in. It seemed like i was running well, I was waxing my buddy who purchased an S-25 the same time I bought my SS. So I THOUGHT I was tuned properly and good to go.
4. Yes my tanks are in series not parallel. Main tank to header to fuel filter to carb inlet.
5. I didn't think the location of the header feed nipple would make a significan difference, but I wasnt sure so I asked.

Since Im a newbie, there isnt a whole lot I can do as far as knowledge to return the favor for the help, but I do know where you can find those nice aluminum header mounts. Go to www.heliproz.com, click on "Online catalog", click on "Store Directory", Click on "DBC Arms, Wraps, Drivers, Headers, Fin & Servo Mts", Scroll down and there you have it "DBC Header Tank Set". They are $15.99. Hope thats what you needed. Thanks for all your help.

By the way, I ran last night but I couldnt get a full tank through to see if I was still having the problem with the dual tank and the severe lean out issue. Got my truck started and I was running well, then it stalled, and would have to let it cool down before I could get it started again. My temp was never above 280 and i had run it full out several passes to get up that high, so I am clueless right about now. On my last attemp to start, my pull start broke, so Ill be down for a while as I wont have time to take the truck apart and handle the necessary repairs for at least a week.

By the way, how do you check for carb leaks and engine leaks?

wheeleze

06-19-2004, 03:11 PM

Wheeleze, lot of good insight here. Are you an engineer by any chance?

Actually, I'm studying Applied Mathematics with an emphasis in physics and computer science. I guess I could be an engineer when I finish school and get a real job :rolleyes:

Anyway, let me address your comments:

1. I was actually thinking about picking up a rabbits foot but the gas station was fresh out!
(clip)
5. I didn't think the location of the header feed nipple would make a significan difference, but I wasnt sure so I asked.

1. You ever think about a 4-leaf clover? A few hours of staring at a clover patch will likely yeild one :D

5. I'm assuming that the nipple doesn't make a difference, but assumptions are the mother of mistakes. I'd, personally, like to hear from someone with experience here, since I've been thinking about doing this mod.

Since Im a newbie, there isnt a whole lot I can do as far as knowledge to return the favor for the help, but I do know where you can find those nice aluminum header mounts. Go to www.heliproz.com, click on "Online catalog", click on "Store Directory", Click on "DBC Arms, Wraps, Drivers, Headers, Fin & Servo Mts", Scroll down and there you have it "DBC Header Tank Set". They are $15.99. Hope thats what you needed. Thanks for all your help.

That's exactly what I'm looking for!!! Thanks a lot!

By the way, I ran last night but I couldnt get a full tank through to see if I was still having the problem with the dual tank and the severe lean out issue. Got my truck started and I was running well, then it stalled, and would have to let it cool down before I could get it started again. My temp was never above 280 and i had run it full out several passes to get up that high, so I am clueless right about now. On my last attemp to start, my pull start broke, so Ill be down for a while as I wont have time to take the truck apart and handle the necessary repairs for at least a week.

My truck has yet to stall from overheating and I've had it up to 315 :rolleyes: Your glow plug may have fouled out. As for the pullstart, I replaced that with the roto start after I finished break-in. Another reason I haven't done the dual tank mod since the header tank will block the roto. I'd rather refill the tank when it starts leaning, or richen the mixture on my last run, than use a pullstart. part n par of only having partial use of one hand.

By the way, how do you check for carb leaks and engine leaks?

First get an eyedropper. I've cleaned and filled up an empty herbal tincture bottle, which has a built in eyedropper, with water. Get your engine running at a low idle and drip the water on the backplate and around the base of the carb. If you have an air leak the water will either plug the hole, or enter the hole, immediatly stalling your engine.

TexasPete

06-22-2004, 07:32 PM

Wheeleze,

I switched glow plugs 3 times, so I can probably elimate that as being the problem. By all my indications, (Engine cuts out when I give it gas, glow plugs turn dark and stained) Im too rich, but my buddy keeps telling me Im too lean. I really dont know.

Anyway, I have a rotostart on the way. From my research the header tank does not interefere with the roto start as long as its mounted properly. (i.e. the black nipple is in line with the carb inlet or higher). Im hoping I will have time to work on my truck this weekend. If so, I will install the roto shart and let you know things work out.

I will check for air leaks in the carb and backplate per your instruction as well. By the way if I have one, how do I seal it?

Thanks for your help my man.

By the way, I am a structural engineer. With a math degree, you will be able to work in almost any field. If you value money, avoid engineering unless you are going to be your own boss. Just my 2 cents.

TexasPete

06-30-2004, 01:37 AM

Another reason I haven't done the dual tank mod since the header tank will block the roto.

I intstalled the roto start backplate this past weekend. My original dual tank setup was blocking the roto just as you had said. I made a new bracket based off of a different version of the dual tank mod I saw. This new set up raises the tank and eliminates the interference. Ill post some pics if you have any interest in seeing them.

First get an eyedropper. I've cleaned and filled up an empty herbal tincture bottle, which has a built in eyedropper, with water. Get your engine running at a low idle and drip the water on the backplate and around the base of the carb. If you have an air leak the water will either plug the hole, or enter the hole, immediatly stalling your engine.

I sealed the engine backplate this weekend as well. And a good thing I did. The backplate screws were all loose, and one had completely backed out! This is probably why I was having so much trouble tuning. It baffles me that HPI wont put locktite on those bolts. Im still having some tuning problems, but Im confident now that it is a tuning problem as opposed to an air leak. Thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction.

hvp014

07-05-2004, 12:32 PM

hey guys just finished breaking in my truck and im goin to the track to test it out on friday all i can say is what a good truck this is.. i jumped off my grage and landed right on the front end.. i flipeed it back over and it was all fine.. the kit was ez to assemble takeing me around 9 hours to completely assemble.. i did have trouble with the throttle linkages.. i also but the dual disc brakes from hpi.. they make the truck nose whellie every time..but i tuned them down to a nice gentle stop now... the main complaint i have is the size of the radio box.. with 3 servos, rx pack, fail save and recharge plug its really tigh i have to force the lid on.. do u guys have any size issuses with the box?

thedarkness

07-05-2004, 02:03 PM

I cannot close my radio box my synthisized reciver does not like to fit instide the box cover so im running the ghetto balloon setup.I got my sav.ss running last wednesday im shocked at the durability.I bent they stock roll bar slightly but i took it off and bent it back staright.I put a cheap 3 shoe on but it was crap and the springs broke.Anyone else find the 2 shoe to slip more than a drunk on ice?

wheeleze

07-05-2004, 03:10 PM

(clip)
Anyone else find the 2 shoe to slip more than a drunk on ice?

Personally, I think the teflon shoes slip too much, be it 2 or 3 shoes. I'm going to install nova's 3-shoe aluminum clutch after my midterm. I'll let you know how it works.

(clip)
do u guys have any size issuses with the box?

I'm running three servo's, novak synthisized receiver, ofna failsafe, 2 over 3 Rx hump pack and still managed to squeeze in an ernst charge receptical. I did purchase a set of male connector plugs in order to remove the excess wire from the servo's and cut off the plastic lip in front of the throttle servo in order to mount the charge receptical. It's a tight fit, but fits none the less.

(clip) The backplate screws were all loose, and one had completely backed out! This is probably why I was having so much trouble tuning. It baffles me that HPI wont put locktite on those bolts.

I had the same problem with my engine. There was permanant damage done to the engine when the backplate screws backed out. I sealed all possible leak areas, backplate & carb, with ultra copper gasket sealer, but there was still issues with the engine running to lean. I sent it into HPI and they replaced the engine. No problems sence.

Note: use the red, permanant, locktite on the backplate. When/if you need to remove it, just heat the bolts up with a soldering iron to break the red locktite.

TexasPete: I wasn't notified of your earlier post :( As for sealing leaks, use a thin bead of Ultra Copper gasket sealer around the backplate, base of carb and carb lock down nut. Also, I am interested in seeing how you mounted your header tank without getting in the way of the roto.

Thanks for the .02! I plan on programming...

TexasPete

07-07-2004, 02:52 AM

Personally, I think the teflon shoes slip too much, be it 2 or 3 shoes. I'm going to install nova's 3-shoe aluminum clutch after my midterm. I'll let you know how it works.
What do you mean by the clutch slipping? I have the stock 2-shoe, and my friend has the s-25 with the 3 shoe, and I am consistently beating him in sprints, that is when my truck is running at all. At first he would have a faster take off, but I would smoke him when I hit second. The last time we raced, we had the same top end, but I was getting a faster take off which techinically shouldnt happen since he is running the 3-shoe set up correct?

I had the same problem with my engine. There was permanant damage done to the engine when the backplate screws backed out. I sealed all possible leak areas, backplate & carb, with ultra copper gasket sealer, but there was still issues with the engine running to lean. I sent it into HPI and they replaced the engine. No problems sence,

Note: use the red, permanant, locktite on the backplate. When/if you need to remove it, just heat the bolts up with a soldering iron to break the red locktite.
How did you know there was permanent damage? Right now i dont think my engine was damaged. I looked inside and I did not notice that any dirt had entered nor did I notice any scratches. I finally got a decent tune on it Sunday after filling the tank full instead of trying to tune with a half full tank like I had been for the previous week and a half. Dont ask what i was thinking by only filling the tank half full, lol.

I used blue locktite. Will the blue not hold up to the heat of the engine?

TexasPete: I wasn't notified of your earlier post :( As for sealing leaks, use a thin bead of Ultra Copper gasket sealer around the backplate, base of carb and carb lock down nut. Also, I am interested in seeing how you mounted your header tank without getting in the way of the roto.
I used the copper stuff. Found some at an autoparts store. I only sealed the back plate. I read too many horror stories about people trying to take their carbs off. I chickened out. I only pulled out the needles and hit them with some white lithium grease.

Here are some shots of my new dual tank setup. Sorry about the picture quality, they were taken with a camera phone. The roto start shaft fits nicely underneath.

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newmainbrack.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualleft.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualright.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualtop.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualback.jpg

Thanks for the .02! I plan on programming...
All my friends that program are well paid! Financially, that would be an excellent career choice. Good luck with it.

wheeleze

07-07-2004, 01:02 PM

What do you mean by the clutch slipping? I have the stock 2-shoe, and my friend has the s-25 with the 3 shoe, and I am consistently beating him in sprints, that is when my truck is running at all. At first he would have a faster take off, but I would smoke him when I hit second. The last time we raced, we had the same top end, but I was getting a faster take off which techinically shouldnt happen since he is running the 3-shoe set up correct?

My problem is likely from the weight I've added. I've added a lot of aluminum parts in preperation for either the dual engine mod or one of the new .28 power houses. It did run well stock, but now I burn through shoes in less than a gallon getting the best acceleration immediatly after cleaning the teflon off my clutch bell.

How did you know there was permanent damage? Right now i dont think my engine was damaged. I looked inside and I did not notice that any dirt had entered nor did I notice any scratches. I finally got a decent tune on it Sunday after filling the tank full instead of trying to tune with a half full tank like I had been for the previous week and a half. Dont ask what i was thinking by only filling the tank half full, lol.

Air leaks on the backplate, after I sealed it... I couldn't tune the engine. Sounds like you're in good shape if the engine isn't acting like it has leaks.

I used blue locktite. Will the blue not hold up to the heat of the engine?

I think the blue breaks down at 215 degrees F. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. While the red can hold in excess of 300.

Here are some shots of my new dual tank setup. Sorry about the picture quality, they were taken with a camera phone. The roto start shaft fits nicely underneath.

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newmainbrack.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualleft.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualright.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualtop.jpg

http://www.i6networks.com/home/texaspete/images/Dual%20Tank%20Mods/newdualback.jpg

Looks good! Nice job.

jmcn r

07-09-2004, 06:12 PM

WOW, thank you texaspete and wheeleze. that was a good read i just had, the information from you two going back and forth has been very insightful :) . thank you, good timing too.

texas, i measured out and test fitted my duel tank set up and it seems like it will come out exactly like yours, except im using an ofna fuel primer/filter and i will mount it below the fuel tank so it will be both safer and a neater application. do either of you think that being lower than the fuel tank could pose any side effects? you seem knowledgeable and trustworthy, so the extra thoughts would be good. :D besides that i just have to go to a tools store or something and pick up two little brakets to mount the tank on.

another question i have is for everybody. i got a regular LHS wheelie bar for the Savage, but i dont know exactly how i should mount it. its a big weighty block of aluminum, im worried if i mount it too high unto the rear skid plater (bumper area) when the truck actually rares itself unto the wheelie bar it may put too much pressure on the plastic skid plate and break it. there is just so much flex when i push on the wheelie bar against the plastic. if i can take a picture of it i will. its just a block with two wheels on the end at either side.

i have the time to wait now........unfortunatley after i finally receieved the very last of the backordered pieces i was waiting for and put the truck together (excepting wheelie bar and duel tank) i flicked the reciever switch on and saw a flash, then smoke poured out of the reciever instantly. :(:( i wrote the situation down on another board, but will post it here too. maybe some1 can help me. even though its under warranty i have a feeling Airtronics will not help me out. these companies usually pride themselves in being as unhelpful as they possibley can these days.

well, ill post more on that a bit later when i have the time, any advice will be greatly appreciated :(

Viper17

07-09-2004, 08:16 PM

This friday when I get my paycheck I'm hoping to get enough to buy an SS. It will be my first kit but not my first nitro. I have an RTR RS4 3 and an RTR NMT. I know it doesn't come with a radio so I was wondering what would be a good three channel radio because I'm going to get the reverse module. Also what percent nitro should I run in it. I won't be racing it just bashing. Thanks :)

jgrs4

07-09-2004, 09:15 PM

The Airtronics MX-3 is a good radio, you can get one from tower with 2 servos for $119. I have 2, one for my RS4 3 SS and one for my Savage SS they are great radios, and a good price. As for the percent of nitro you should use 20% nitro.

jmcn r

07-09-2004, 11:45 PM

agreed, the MX3 is an awesome mid range remote. i am usually a a Futaba but went to Airtronics this time around, however i did have a disaster the first time i switched my reciever on unfortunatley. but one bug shouldnt scare anybody. its a great remote, just hope Airtronics honours their warranty in a speedy fashion. so far ive wasted several days without getting anywhere.

20% fuel as mentioned only a few posts back in discussion is ideal.

if you are going for just bashing you could certainly look at the RTR version especially if you still want reverse. what is your desire for the SS?

TexasPete

07-11-2004, 10:40 AM

texas, i measured out and test fitted my duel tank set up and it seems like it will come out exactly like yours, except im using an ofna fuel primer/filter and i will mount it below the fuel tank so it will be both safer and a neater application. do either of you think that being lower than the fuel tank could pose any side effects? you seem knowledgeable and trustworthy, so the extra thoughts would be good. :D besides that i just have to go to a tools store or something and pick up two little brakets to mount the tank on.

Lower should be better than higher, but keeping all your fuel lines as level with the carb as possible is your best bet (someone correct me if I'm wrong). One thing I would consider is that if you ever plan on using the roto start the filter might be in the way if you mount it on the bottom. Try mounting on the opposite side of the tank between the shock tower and the tank. You brought up a good point about protection, I think I may work on moving my fuel filter. Let me know what you come up with.

i have the time to wait now........unfortunatley after i finally receieved the very last of the backordered pieces i was waiting for and put the truck together (excepting wheelie bar and duel tank) i flicked the reciever switch on and saw a flash, then smoke poured out of the reciever instantly. :(:( i wrote the situation down on another board, but will post it here too. maybe some1 can help me. even though its under warranty i have a feeling Airtronics will not help me out. these companies usually pride themselves in being as unhelpful as they possibley can these days.

If you originally purchased your radio from tower hobbies, I would send it directly back to them if you are still within the 30 day return period. They have the best customer service on earth! If not good luck with Airtronics.

I know it doesn't come with a radio so I was wondering what would be a good three channel radio because I'm going to get the reverse module. Also what percent nitro should I run in it. I won't be racing it just bashing. Thanks

I agree with the rest of the folks, The MX-3 is a great radio. You might even consider the MX-3S, that way you can run all your nitros from one radio. They should be on the market now.

Viper17

07-11-2004, 11:14 AM

I think I'm going to get the MX-3 because doesn't it have a five model memory? I only have two other rc's and I think the SS is going to be the last rc I buy for awhile. whats cool is I found the SS on tower for $350 and its $410 at my LHS so that will help me save money to get the radio. Thanks

Soloithz

07-15-2004, 12:18 AM

Has anyone burned through the stock gears on their SS? I have been through maybe a gallon or less and now I hear a chattering/grinding noise coming form the truck when I roll it back and forth. This was after installing the HPI dual brake setup which by the way is SICK! It doesnt seem to have affected the way it runs though. That is unless that explains why it was stalling when shifting into second. I leaned it out a bit and that seemed to fix the bogging while shifting. Could that new brake setup have caused some teeth to chip? Before adjusting it it was sending the nose into the ground when I braked literally locking up the tranny. I havent checked it out yet but I figure if its common problem you guys may know where to look first. I would like to save some disassembly time. Thanks

VIPER: the MX-3 is a great radio. I am using it on my SS and will eventually be setting it up for my NMT as well. It does do 5 models. The digital trim controls are soooooo much better than rotary. It was a very good investment and not even an expensive one at that.

mramos12208

07-15-2004, 11:07 AM

Sorry for being such a newbie!!! I know the SS comes with a two-shoe clutch but I just received mine and it comes with three shoes. I managed to installed the three shoes in. Was I supossed to use only two shoes or did HPI changed their kit? Again sorry for my lack of knowledge.

Manuel

mramos12208

07-15-2004, 11:17 AM

Soloithz

07-16-2004, 12:15 AM

I also installed a Hitec digital servo HS-5645MG, it has a very good torque and I am using four alkaline batteries (6.0 V), but still when I move the steering with the truck standing still on the ground the servo moves the wheels just a little bit. If I lift the truck front end and move the steering then it move a whole lot. I installed a Kimbrough servo saver, do you think the problem is the servo saver or the servo?

Manuel

That is normal Manuel. Mine does that too with fresh alkalines in it and a high torque servo. You have 15lbs of weight on those tires, they wont move much until the truck is rolling. I dont have any special servo saver either. Mine turns great. If you drive a real car you would notice a similar principle. When idle or moving very slowly you must turn the wheel a lot more to move over. But at highway speeds only a slight tug to one side is enough to switch lanes.

wheeleze

07-16-2004, 06:25 PM

wheeleze

07-16-2004, 06:32 PM

Has anyone burned through the stock gears on their SS? I have been through maybe a gallon or less and now I hear a chattering/grinding noise coming form the truck when I roll it back and forth. This was after installing the HPI dual brake setup which by the way is SICK! It doesnt seem to have affected the way it runs though. That is unless that explains why it was stalling when shifting into second. I leaned it out a bit and that seemed to fix the bogging while shifting. Could that new brake setup have caused some teeth to chip? Before adjusting it it was sending the nose into the ground when I braked literally locking up the tranny. I havent checked it out yet but I figure if its common problem you guys may know where to look first. I would like to save some disassembly time. Thanks

Be careful how tight you set your breaks! If you have trouble keeping your rear wheels on the ground then the breaks are too tight. All of the stress is in your diff's and tranny, and can do serious damage. You might want to tear it down and inspect the 'noise'. Disassembly/reassembly will happen a lot if you want to keep the truck up.

wheeleze

07-16-2004, 06:43 PM

VIPER: the MX-3 is a great radio. I am using it on my SS and will eventually be setting it up for my NMT as well. It does do 5 models. The digital trim controls are soooooo much better than rotary. It was a very good investment and not even an expensive one at that.

I have to cast a vote for the M8. Gotta love the ABL (don't know why Airtronics uses that acronym for Anti-Lock Brakes) and 10 model memory. I keep 2 slots for each car I have and 4 for my friend's rides :rolleyes: Unfortunatly, the cost is HIGH :(

Viper17

07-19-2004, 12:52 PM

Got my Savage SS yesterday. Im using the radio from my rs4 3 until I can get the MX-3. Here are some pics :)

Viper17

07-19-2004, 12:53 PM

another

Viper17

07-19-2004, 12:59 PM

last ones

L-S-C

07-19-2004, 10:32 PM

Looks good man! Have you enjoyed building it? Hopefully my SS will be arriving this week so I can get mine built too! Post some more pics when ya got your body done too.

Jon

Viper17

07-20-2004, 09:10 PM

Here are some pics of the completed truck with the body. I used the paint job from the box only with red. Sorry for the bad pics.

Viper17

07-20-2004, 09:13 PM

Viper17

07-20-2004, 09:14 PM

.......

Viper17

07-20-2004, 09:15 PM

last on hope you like it :)

L-S-C

07-20-2004, 11:11 PM

Your truck looks awesome man! Hope ya enjoy it.

Jon

Viper17

07-23-2004, 04:47 PM

Got my truck broken in and I LOVE it this thing rocks just need to tune it to get the wheelies going. I need help with adjusting the slipper clutch. This is the first time I have used one and want to know how tight I should have it. Thanks :)

Oh and the build time was 9 1/2 hours

thedarkness

08-03-2004, 09:47 PM

Tighten the slipper down and back it out about 1/4 turn thats will put you in the ballpark.Do you have a 3 shoe clutch or the 2 shoe, if you have the 2 shoe the clutch will slip way before the tranny does.Today i completely changed my enite setup i switched to a new 3 shoe,changed the tires/rims to ones from a gs storm unlimited and i put the gs .25 mt engine in her with a 17 tooth clutch bell.Anyone else running a similar setup?(i havnt run it yet a storm that makes the one in the slap ma fro video look tiny rolled in at about 5 o'clock)

savss

08-04-2004, 07:00 PM

Got a question:
Whenever I give my truck gas, the engine revs, but the wheels hardly
turn. could it be the slipper clutch?

I was running it before the summer(spring), and it ran fine. LSN was set at
3 turns from fully closed and HSN was set at 4. When I ran it for the first
time this summer(june), it would run for a minute, then the engine would die.
I figured I had to retune it because of the hot weather. It's while I was doing
that, said question started. Did I tune it wrong?

Funny thing is, after I installed a Roto-Start unit, I started it in my bedroom.
The engine ran like nothing never happened. I set the needles to factory specs.
When I raised the truck and gave it gas, the same thing happened with the wheels.
I then tightened the slipper clutch a little(not all the way), and the wheels spun
faster. Could it be?
I need to be sure(I not an expert).
Any help would be greatly appreciated

Clodfather

08-07-2004, 03:16 AM

I like what I see. I was going to get the Revo but then I realized something. I want something that is strong and not RTR. I love building them myself. :)

Clodfather

08-07-2004, 03:18 AM

So tell me... Is this truck durable and fast? :o

thedarkness

08-07-2004, 05:39 PM

Durable: you better belive it.Not the fastest game in town(to heavy) but it can crash at top speed and come back for more

Clodfather

08-10-2004, 09:21 PM

Well I bought a savage ss. I like the kit, and I can tell it is very durable. Now I took my time on it, it took about 4 days for me to complet it. Everything went smoothly, until I tried to start it. I follow every single step to exactness, and not only that, I baby things of mine beyond belief. So anyways, I try to start it with an igniter and a good glow plug. The igniter charged for about 20 hours before I used it. The God**** thing will not start no matter what I do. I am extremely frustrated. It is the second nitro I have had, but it WILL NOT START. Everything is brand new down to the radio. So if you guys could give an amature some help it would be nice. What about that roto start thing? Maybe that would help? (I also don't like sitting there ripping on something so small, I feel like I am going to break it, so maybe an electric start would be nice) I have no idea, please help!!!! :mad:

thedarkness

08-11-2004, 04:41 AM

Is there fuel entering the carb? Do you have the stock pipe with the primer button? If you have the tank with the primer you most likely have an airleak there.Make sure the fuel inlet on the and the hole on the HSN match up.Thats all i can think of now.
EDIT: also try to open the throttle when starting it.

Clodfather

08-11-2004, 01:01 PM

Well thanks for the help but I seriously can't get it started. I am going to shelf it for now

Viper17

08-12-2004, 09:50 PM

I had the same problem when I got my Savage. Try to loosen the glow plug a very little bit the lower the compression and get a heat gun or hair dryer and heat up the engine block the let the metal parts expand a little then give it a good tug and it should fire up. I know how you feel I sat in my backyard for 2 hours trying every thing and got so frustrated I almost broke it. Hope this helps. :)

Clodfather

08-13-2004, 05:27 PM

thanks man ill try it

slaf

08-13-2004, 08:57 PM

So tell me... Is this truck durable and fast? :o

This is the must durable truck out there but when you build your diffs, make the 4 spiders mod otherwise you'll need to make this mod later...

jasongins

08-17-2004, 10:43 PM

Clodfather -

I had a similar problem with a new HPI RS4 3 SS. The 12r SS would not start no matter what. After several frustrating sessions and some nasty blisters from the pull starter, I got it to run. It took the combination of a "Hot" short glow plug, O'Donnell 20% fuel (I was originally tryin some no name crap that was all my LHS stocked), a new high quality glow ignitor, and a heat gun to preheat the block. If had to guess, my problems were really the ignitor and the fuel. Don't overprime it, just get the fuel right up to the carb.

bustedparts

08-19-2004, 08:51 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/bustedparts/racesavage1.jpg
Just about got my savager racer done.Got a few more this to do to it and it's done.I got it down to 4 shocks with green springs and it seems to handle great!Just got to paint a body for it and she's ready to rip!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/bustedparts/racesavage.jpg
LMK what you guys think!

http://www.michiganmaniacs.com/logo_phpBB.gif (http://savageracer.com/phpBB2/index.php)
Home of the Fastest Savages

thedarkness

08-19-2004, 09:03 PM

wicked are those vertigo lowered tvps?How do you like them? the tank mods is trick dude

bustedparts

08-19-2004, 09:20 PM

Yha those are vertigo plates and yes they are sweet!I am going to put the cf ones on for next season.I am going to have more detailed pics soon.

bustedparts

08-30-2004, 10:34 PM

Well since the tread was a little dead I figgered I would post a few pics of my other truck that i am buliding. :eek:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/bustedparts/zilla.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/bustedparts/zilla1.jpg

microrcdude

08-30-2004, 11:21 PM

WOW! is that the .46 conversion??? THATS SWEET

Nitro41

08-31-2004, 11:35 PM

I am thinking about getting a nitro mt. The Savage SS is probably what Im going to get, but I have a few questions.

Is the truck easy to work on? (do you have to take apart the whole truck to get to one part?)

Are there any must-have upgrades?

and nice truck bustedparts :D

thedarkness

09-01-2004, 06:11 PM

The truck is not easy to work on at first but it does get easier with time.The upside to this is you dont have to work on it much because its so durable.If you buy a savage be carefull some have faulty gears in the diffs.

Nitro41

09-01-2004, 07:11 PM

ok, so i need the do the 4 gear diff mod. what about the steereing? i heard that its not that great. would a stronger servo work or is there more to it?

bustedparts

09-01-2004, 08:45 PM

OK I would do the stearing mod.It has worked great for me!Yha and you want to do the diff mod. Oh yha heres some updated pics of my race savage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/bustedparts/IMAG0026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/bustedparts/IMAG0027.jpg

bustedparts

09-01-2004, 08:54 PM

The race savage list of mods.
1. 4 gear diff mod
2. 4 shocks , stock with limmiters and integy springs
3. trimed bumpers
4.Adjustable rear turn buckles
5. mugen 3 shoe clutch with ofna blue shoes and mugen 1.1 springs
6.hd cvds all the way around
7.monster pirate servo saver mod
8.fuel tank relocation
9.stearing servo relocation
10.throttle servo relocation
11. hitec 5645 stearing servo
12. futaba 9042 throttle and brake servo
13 vertigo race this tvp plates
14 ss screw kit
15 xtm 24.7 pro

Yes this truck hauls! :eek:

nitroloco

11-02-2004, 10:16 PM

Hello all,
I just bought a Savge SS last week and I just got done running about 5 tanks thru it today. First tank was at idle with the wheels off the ground then the rest are on the street slowly working my way to full throttle. I only change the HSN setting once, leaning it out bu about 1/8 turn. My question is that where do you guys have your HSN setting at? I know the book says between after the break in it could be between 2 1/2 to 3 turns. Do I get there by turning the needle by 1/8 every tank of fuel?

Thanks

jjmag26

11-06-2004, 03:33 PM

Just finished my second ss. Here's a pic

jjmag26

11-06-2004, 03:34 PM

One more

nitroloco

11-09-2004, 12:59 PM

Got the engine broken in and Boy does this truck have power. It is fast too. My idle is kinda on a high side but I swill take care of that once I do the Throttle linkage mod. This truck is a blast.

jjmag26

11-09-2004, 07:46 PM

Any pics nitroloco?

cepwin

11-11-2004, 11:07 PM

I just wanted to comment about HPI support. I'm in the process of building my Savage SS and had some questions and called them. I had to leave a message and didn't expect they'd ever call back or if they did it would be days (my usual experience with leaving messages like that.) Well, a very helpful gentleman called back within 30 minutes and answered my questions!! Kudo's to HPI! :)

I do have a question as long as I'm posting. How much of a pain is it to get the diffs out in order to do the 4 gear upgrade??? From putting it together it looks likes it will require quite a bit of disassembly.

jjmag26

11-12-2004, 11:06 AM

It's not that much of a pain. I did both diffs and was back in action in less than an hour. Highly recommended upgrade.

cepwin

11-12-2004, 11:53 AM

Thanks for the info jjmaq26! BTW, your trucks look great! Very well done! I'm still working on mine (just assembled the shocks this morning....oilly proposition :) )

cepwin

11-13-2004, 10:29 PM

Well, my main Savage SS build is done. I still have to paint, do the break in, put in the add-ins etc. but the main build is done....here's the pix!

cepwin

11-14-2004, 12:43 PM

Old_School_RC_1

11-14-2004, 06:10 PM

Hello all! Gotta say, the savage is awesome! Tough, fast and durable....well almost, i broke the S-25 motor crankcase, engine mount, mount plate, and a chunk of the engine got between the stainless brake disks and wrecked them too. (Don't land upside-down on the engine from about 6 ft doing 30...trust me) Since it's in need of a new motor and stuff, I'm looking at the hot bodies truckzilla conversion - the .46 looks just too sweet - anyone have any feedback on this? I could look back through all the posts, but i'm too lazy :-)

wheeleze

11-14-2004, 07:48 PM

I have a question about break in. I was looking at the directions and they specify priming the carb by pressing a button on the gas tank in order to pump nitro into the system. However, when looking at the tank, the button in the pictures in the manual isn't there. There is no way to pump nitro directly from the gas tank. Is this correct?? What should I do instead??

Thanks!!

Did HPI drop the primer tank from the SS, or do you have the RTR version? Either way, no primer is good! They get air leaks quickly. Simply plug the exhaust and pull the starter a few times WITHOUT the glow starter until the fuel reaches the carb with no bubbles in the line. Keep track of how many times/far you pull it, or how long you use the roto, at first. After break-in, you should get a feel when to stop priming by the suction on the exhaust.

cepwin

11-14-2004, 08:57 PM

Thanks for the info. I have the SS so it looks like they dropped the primer. Unfortunately they didn't update their docs accordingly which lead to my confusion. I probably won't get to do the break in until next weekend (tough during the week to have enough time/daylight to do it) but I'll be anxious to see if it works (since it's my first experience with RC cars let alone nitro.)

Thanks again!

jjmag26

11-14-2004, 10:45 PM

Yes, HPI has updated the fuel tanks in the ss kits. Primerless is better because of airleaks. I also just put my finger on the muffler and pull a couple of times to prime.

wheeleze

11-15-2004, 03:45 PM

Thanks for the info. (clip)
(since it's my first experience with RC cars let alone nitro.)

Thanks again!
Your quite welcome. I do have some advice for you that will save you some pain.
1. Did you use the blue locktite on ALL metal on metal screws? I would also recommend locktite on your wheel nuts as well. I know they are lock nuts, but I still STRONGLY recommend it so you don't strip out your rims.

2. I also recommend doing the 4 gear diff mod before running the truck so all your gears get the same wear.

3. The throttle linkage is good enough for breakin, but replace it with the ofna linkage kit. Same goes for the steering, either a better servo saver or the ofna mod with a metal gear servo.

4. Dump the stock airfilter and pick up a motor saver filter. You can find them at towerhobbies.

Don't forget to enjoy the ride, it's sweet! As mentioned in a previous post, watch the upside down landings. One cost me $170 in repairs, but it was over 10 feet high :rolleyes:

slat26

11-15-2004, 09:30 PM

ordered my savage ss today for my christmas present.
list of items ordered:

-savage ss
-reverse module
-futaba 3PM-TFS radio
-s3305 servo (steering)
-s3010 servo (throttle)
-s3003 servo (reverse)
-futaba failsafe
-roto start
-traxxas 1100 mah rx hump pack (already have traxxas charger)
-trinity monster brew

items to be ordered:

-all needed parts for 4 spider gear mod
-header tank (if deemed neccesary)
- 3-speed tranny (a must)
- monster pirate servo saver mod
-ofna throttle linkages
-3-shoe clutch

questions:

-what diff. oil is recommended for everyday backyard bashing?
-best 3-shoe clutch assembly?
-should i disassemble this engine to check for metal shavings from factory machining?

ill post pics after christmas!!! (not to far away!)

thedarkness

11-16-2004, 03:42 PM

hey slat26 i have heard it is better to use a thick grease rather than diff oil in the savage(if you use oil make sure its over 10,000wtg or else it will leak out.The best 3 shoe setup for a savge is probably stock flywheel with mugen, kyosho or nova shoes aluminum(not recomended for a beginner they take maitnence).The savege ss now comes with a 3 shoe and carbon shoes i would use those untill they wore out and then i would buy either mugen or ofna carbon shoes(very low price).
The engine should be checked for metal shavings but hpi likes to use a lot of red loc-tite on the back plate so it might not want to come off.The head will come off easily tho so pull the sleeve and check it. If the backplate comes off pull the piston and crank and wash all the parts in some varsol and blow them dry with an air compressor.(i belive you live on a farm so you would have access to these.

jjmag26

11-16-2004, 04:12 PM

The ss kits are now including a 3 shoe clutch and the updated primerless fuel tank.

slat26

11-16-2004, 07:25 PM

wheeleze

11-16-2004, 09:12 PM

questions:

-what diff. oil is recommended for everyday backyard bashing?
-best 3-shoe clutch assembly?
-should i disassemble this engine to check for metal shavings from factory machining?

I use 5000 in the front and 3000 in the rear on my stock RTR basher, 7000 front with 5000 rear in my, mostly aluminum, SS street/shelf queen. The only time they leaked is when the aluminum skid, under the bumper, was REALLY bent up.

I really like Nova Racings aluminum shoes, but the stock 3 shoe that comes with the RTR, and SS now, works fine.

Here's a few tricks for taking your engine apart.
Heat up the bolts on the backplate with a high watt soldering iron to break the red locktite or you'll strip out their heads.
Clean everything with denatured alcohol and an air compressor. I haven't heard of varsol.
Seal the backplate, carb retainer, and carb with ultracopper high temp oxy sensor safe sealant.
Replace the three head shims but don't seal the head.

It looks like you'r going all out on a sweet ride so replace that stock air filter and your engine will love ya ;)

slat26

11-17-2004, 07:07 PM

yah i forgot to mention, i got a motor saver filter to go with it

cepwin

11-19-2004, 10:48 PM

Related to the clutch shoe discussion. When I installed the clutch shoes they fit against the clutch plate (I think that's what it's called) fine but the springs made the shoes not tight against each other around the main shaft. I had to push them in, in order to get the clutch bell over. It did go over and the gears and such when on fine and seem to turn against the flywheel now that the engine is in. When I tried to describe the problem to someone she thought there maybe a problem. I'm not sure how clear my description was to her, so I though I'd better ask the list.

Thanks!

wheeleze

11-25-2004, 03:32 PM

2 more pieces of advice:

1. Replace the coarse threads keeping your diff's sealed with fine thread 3mm bolts. The coarse threads WILL back out. All 8 of mine did in 2 gallons.

2. Use silicone RTV sealant above and below the aluminum skid plates found between the diff housing and bumpers or you'll get dirt in your diff :eek:

wheeleze

11-25-2004, 03:33 PM

cepwin

11-25-2004, 07:37 PM

Well, it turns out that I was putting the shoes in wrong. I had been pushing the tang (the short end) strait against the pilot nut. However, last night I was looking at a magazine and they had a pix of a properly installed clutch shoe with the tang around the nut. Once I put it in correctly the shoes snapped in and the bell went over freely and spun freely. (That was when I reassembed and tried to start her up...hence the messages earlier today.) Thanks again!

Fantom_4-tec

12-02-2004, 01:28 PM

I am trying to find a good twin engine conversion kit w/o engines for my savage SS. I already have 2 Fantom FR 27s with ofna 4 shoe clutches waiting to be installed but i need a good conversion kit. This thing is gonna be a beast. Thanks for the help.
-mike

BlueBeast8-Port

12-09-2004, 10:18 PM

Hello, i jsut got my savage ss a few days ago. The LHS took out the stock engine and i bought the Wasp .26. Anyway while building it i made it all the way to the engine assembly. Wehre you putt he clutch and what not on. I think i am messing somehting up on it. The gold cone that goes on first goes on than the flywheel and when its all done there is a big gap between the flywheel and case of the motor on the shaft. Also the gold thick washer thing that goes on last isnt even o nthe shaft. Is this right? Also when my clutch is set up right should it free spin? mines tight and wont fit. Also what clutchbell should i run with this engine. The 18 tooth or 15? Any help owuld be greatly appreciated so i can finish up this truck. Thanks. Catch me on AOL IM at XtremeMaxx9 if you can. thanks

thedarkness

12-10-2004, 02:39 AM

the clutch should spin free my tip is to ditch that brass spacer and get a bunch of clutch shims the brass one will wear down very quickly.

BlueBeast8-Port

12-10-2004, 06:54 AM

wheeleze

12-10-2004, 10:46 AM

Hello ok, now with the clutch shoes are they? The 3 rubber pieces that go over the pins out of the flywheel, anyway,
1.) should they be a tight squeeze into the clutch bell or should it just slide over no prob
2.) what clutch bell should i use?
3.) Should there be a space from my flywheel to the case of the enigne. Looks like that glod spacer you put on first is the gap.
4.) And the last thick gold washer you put on, should that be on the shaft or off?
5.) For the upper control arms. You get a set of threaded ones and straight plastic. I am having a hard time getting them down to the correct length with the adjustable ones, Would you reccommend keep trying them or jsut pop i nthe all plastic ones?

Please help me out here guys so i can finish this project up. I have been into elec for the past year so my engine knowledge kinda went down the drain. Thanks in advance.
Thank you for helping The Darkness. I spent around $700 o nthis bad boy a few days ago (kit, wasp, MX3, hitec servo, beadlock rims, paddle tires, nitro, ignitor, etc.) I think ill wait to see what happens to this gold spacer and now i no my clutch is def wrong sicne its not spinning. thank you.

1. The clutch bell should slide easly over the clutch shoes.
2. The clutch bell you choose depends on the application. Off-road would be best running a 15-16T, maybe a 17 for your motor. 17-18 for on-road. But i'm not familiar with the wasp .26 since i'm waiting for the roto start backplate for a .28 :rolleyes:
3. There will be a space between your flywheel and engine case. You don't want the flywheel pushed against it or your bearings will die. Be sure to tighten down the flywheel nut good, using a piston stop or cranck lock, so the flywheel doesn't slip. Also, pop the head and mark BDC on your flywheel so you can set the piston to BDC when it's cooling during breakin.
4. The brass bushing should be on the shaft unless you replace it with steel shims recommended earlier.
5. The plastic upper a-arms tend to give you positive camber, as with the adjustable ones. Here's a trick: Cut off 2mm from the inside of each adjustable a-arm section, where the adjuster enters the arms. This should let you go down to -3 degrees with no problems.

Enjoy your nitro. The SS was my transition from electric to nitro and I love it. It can go soooooo many more places than a RC10T3 ;)

BlueBeast8-Port

12-10-2004, 05:02 PM

wheeleze

12-10-2004, 08:53 PM

uh oh, another prob. I was undoing my clutch assembly to redo it and i cant get that black nut that goes on after the flywheel off. Its on very tight. I try with a wrench and the shaft jsut spins turning the motor. How do i get it off. When i try to unscrew it, it just spins the shaft......what to do.... any help please

You have three options:
1. Hold the flywheel with channel locks,
2. Put in a piston stop. Ofna sells a carb screwdriver with one built in the handle. It threads in where the glow plug is located and holds the piston at the bottom.
3. Remove the back-plate and use a crankshaft lock to keep the engine from turning over.

1 is the easiest, but won't help you get the flywheel off. I'd suggest getting ofna's carb tuning screwdriver with the piston lock built in, in addition to the ofna flywheel wrench. 3 is the easiest on your motor, but i cannot remember the exact name of the tool, not to mention pulling the backplate is a pain.

BlueBeast8-Port

12-12-2004, 10:44 AM

Hello, ok wel no LHS around has that tool so i ordered it offline. Should be here mid to late this week. Anyway i always seem to do the clutch wrong. With the shoes, do you have to push them i na little to fit the clutch bell over. Any when i finish it, That last thick gold wacher isnt even on the shaft. Is this correct or what? Do i follow the same clutch procedure with my wasp and they say to do? Well any help greatly appreciated. If anyone has AOL IM and can help me please IM me at XtremeMaxx9 and help me fix this. Also i was checking around. What are some good upgrades for this to lighten it up and get ready for racing. Thanks

slat26

12-12-2004, 12:32 PM

be careful with that tool, it can damage your piston if you yank too hard when tightening.

BlueBeast8-Port

12-12-2004, 12:35 PM

Hello, well what is the safest way to fix this
?

wheeleze

12-13-2004, 03:04 AM

Hello, well what is the safest way to fix this
?

The 'safest' way to pull your flywheel & nut would be to pull your backplate and lock the connecting rod, option 3 below. But, the piston lock is easiest if your careful. I wouldn't recommend yanking on anything, but rather slow constant pressure when turning the nut or spinning the flywheel to break it loose.

Monsterbrad

12-18-2004, 05:18 PM

Hold the fly wheel with channel locks
Then undo the nut.
Carefully pry the flywheel with a flat screw driver..
Thats how I have always done it...
Also if you are worried about scratching up the fly wheel just put a wrag between the channel locks and the fly wheel...

performula

12-21-2004, 03:28 PM

Will Clod/USA-1/Monster Pirate wheels and tires fit on this bad boy?

Saboteur

12-27-2004, 03:12 PM

Anyone say the 4 gear mod is a necessity? If the LHS has one, I'll try the Sav SS and see what else I can get for it.

woody1

01-12-2005, 08:12 AM

4ways are not strong enough. I am using alloy cups and still lucky to get 2 ltr through b4 both need complete overhauls. anyone know if these diffs will fit http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13543.html because they look alot stronger if they will fit
Cheers

bustedparts

01-12-2005, 10:55 AM

yes a ofna spider diff will fit in the stock diff case.If yha want strong diffs try putting the hardend cross pins that are made by ofna.They are much stronger than stock.And make sure you use diff oil.

BlueBeast8-Port

01-12-2005, 03:10 PM

Well got my savage running. Got my 2 idle tanks in on the wasp .26. Starts up very easy. I had to change the stock settings major though. It is about 20-30 degrees out (fahrenheit) where i am so it is tough. I got it tuned in to stay at idle and keep about 200 degrees. Now onto a little 1/8 throttle tank and than a 1/4 with a little lean out. Very happy so far. Any suggested upgrades. Ive been a maxx guy so i dont no what to get for the savage. I already did motor (wasp .26) and radio (MX3). I know the diffs are usually a prob when upgrade power. So what are the best diffs i get get that will last me? Thank you.

illbreakit

01-12-2005, 08:26 PM

Hey, just lettin all you Savage owners know, I have some newly released, lowered and extended TVP's on the market now IN both 6061 alum, and Carbon Fiber composite. If you want more info, email me at dpesonen@telus.net
http://www3.telus.net/public/dpesonen/images/TVPALUM.jpg http://www3.telus.net/public/dpesonen/images/TVPCF.jpg

BlueBeast8-Port

01-13-2005, 05:22 PM

I want those carbon fiber ones. Are they lighter than stock? Im tring to go all black n blue look. Let me know a price.

Monsterbrad

01-13-2005, 08:33 PM

I have heard that carbon fiber can be a problem because it can break easier than aluminum or plastic.

Viper17

01-13-2005, 10:13 PM

Anyone use these. I want something for some hard core climbing action when spring rolls around. They seem pretty good for $20. Also should I use them in both front and rear or just rear. I know I will loose some steering if put up front. Thanks
http://www.vertigoperformance.com/products/savage/4008.html

illbreakit

01-14-2005, 07:41 AM

http://www3.telus.net/public/dpesonen/ Go here to check out more on my sideplate's. I will be adding more part's as I get them made up. Have a fuel tank relocation kit in the works and heatsink engine mount plates should be ready soon.

BlueBeast8-Port

01-21-2005, 09:55 AM

How about a twin engine conversion kit? That in the making at all? Or does anyone kow which twin kit is the best. I want to drop in another wasp .26

illbreakit

01-22-2005, 12:53 AM

No twin kit's forseeable in the near future, but you can never rule anything out.

46u

01-23-2005, 12:04 PM

I want those carbon fiber ones. Are they lighter than stock? Im tring to go all black n blue look. Let me know a price.

It is stronger but is more rigid and does not give so it does break more. It does make chassis stronger where they do not flex. Aluminum bends, as it is soft. It has a lot to do with what type and where you race. One thing is for sure it looks GREAT! :cool:

jc2stroke2

01-24-2005, 08:36 PM

Say guys,i got my savage out today its got the truckzilla kit on it alluminum arms and integy piggy back shocks.I ran it around 5or6 tanks never died,it wheelies and runs out great!Itl climb the big stump in my back yard and nothin else even came close.Whats so wrong with the truckzilla kit?Wish i could get a pic on here id show it off,all opinions are appreiciated, jared

Soloithz

01-27-2005, 10:10 PM

bustedparts

01-27-2005, 11:10 PM

I would get a xtm 247 pro over eather of those engines.It makes aroung the same power and it cheaper!

rayzor267

01-29-2005, 12:55 PM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?

46u

01-29-2005, 06:10 PM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?

Yes there is but not sure who makes them. Go to a web site like towers and do a search. I would like to get some for my HPI MT racer.

Soloithz

01-30-2005, 10:12 PM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?

Look at these I bought them for my savage and they work great
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGBC7&P=7

geo8498

02-04-2005, 04:25 PM

Look at these I bought them for my savage and they work great
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGBC7&P=7
You can use heatshrink over your dogbones to keep the dirt out.

illbreakit

02-06-2005, 12:57 AM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?
If you just have the stock dogbone's, don't worry about it. The dirt won't collect and harm them. It's only CVD style that is the problem. And Hotbodies sell's just the boot's from there megatravel CVD set, so you can put the boot's on almost any RC you want :D

99SiR

02-06-2005, 06:08 PM

Hey guys i was debating between the MGT and the savage RTR. I'm new to nitro monster trucks and was wondering if the 2.5ss is that much of an improvement over the RTR or will i even notice a difference? As well, the 2.5SS only needs a radio on top of the kit if i understand corrently? How would the price of the RTR kit compare with the price of the 2.5SS kit with a decent radio. Also which radio woudl you recommend? Read somethign about the 2.5 ss kit being discontinued, any truth to this and would the 4.6 kit plus radion be way more expensive than the 2.5RTR kit?

Also, any experience with the new savage versus the monster GT would be greatly appreciated. I would be using it mostly for bashing, climbing up things, over things, etc..

Thanks!

nitrobug

02-07-2005, 09:42 PM

Both trucks are very capable trucks, but the MGT is a easier truck to work on. the price of the both of them are about the same. The ss25 is discontinued, you will have to wait for the ss4.6 to become in stock, or buy the rtr. Parts and hop-ups are plentiful for for each. I have both trucks, love to bash with the savage, but love to race the MGT. Hope this helps.

richkay228

02-08-2005, 08:47 AM

Anyone have thoughts on which engine I should go with, particularly personal experiences. I was thinking either a Wasp .28 or the Fantom .27 for my SS
Both seem to have very similar design principles. The wasp is obviously slightly more displacement but the Fantom makes .05 more hp which i'm sure is neglibile. LHS has the wasp for under $200 but a Fantom I would have to order, any thoughts?

I currently have a Wasp .28, Wasp .26, XTM 24.7 Pro, and the Picco outlaw .26. I would have to say all things considered I will say my XTM 24.7 Pro is my best engine. It makes awesome power everywhere in the powerband. It doesnt have WOW power, over the others, it pulls the same as any other engine, but again it's awesome everywhere in the rpm's. I can't find a weak spot in the power. Every other engine I have has strong points and weak points. The added bonus with the XTM Pro is it is absolutely so tuner friendly. I have yet to experience any tuning frustrations with the XTM Pro, make a needle adjustment, and you get a consistant predictable response out of the engine.
Rich

BlueBeast8-Port

02-10-2005, 06:43 AM

Hey, what type of receiver pack will fit in the savage without mods? I hate the AA thing and need a rechargable pack. Just curious to what style everyone is running.Hump pack (3 on bottom, 2 on top)?

wheeleze

02-10-2005, 12:57 PM

Hey, what type of receiver pack will fit in the savage without mods? I hate the AA thing and need a rechargable pack. Just curious to what style everyone is running.Hump pack (3 on bottom, 2 on top)?

2 over 3 is the configuration i use in both of my savages. It's tight, but they fit.

BlueBeast8-Port

02-11-2005, 08:11 PM

Ok cool, does anyone no where i can get the twisted toys chassis plates like i nthe link and how to do the fuel tank mod he did? Let me know, because i really want to lighten up and get my savage ready to race and the fuel tank mod looks great. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5956161459&fromMakeTrack=true

jerseyevo

02-11-2005, 09:37 PM

nitrobug

02-11-2005, 10:12 PM

I use the same battery configuration as wheeleze, works fine. and the MGT is not so much beefier then the savage, the savage is a tough truck, but the MGT is a MUCH easier truck to work on, and I do prefer my MGT over my Savage.

BlueBeast8-Port

02-12-2005, 07:24 AM

Anyone know how to do that fuel tank mod?

vertigop

02-13-2005, 01:01 AM

If you are using off the shelf carbon fiber which all after market companies use except 2 and especially anything less than 3mm you may find breakage issues.

Generally special grades like Quasis Isotropic will take anything you throw at it.

You just need to do your homework on CF before purchasing it.

Clayton

BlueBeast8-Port

02-13-2005, 09:55 AM

Ok well will the twisted toys frame hold well? Also, what bout that fuel tank mod? Anyone know. I e-mailed the seller but no response.

Mustang2

03-09-2005, 11:16 AM

Hey, I am about to build my first kit and I thought I would make it a Savage SS...I am getting the one with out the engine and pipe and no elctronics...Any ideas and hints I need to know before building...I would really only like to hear from SS owners...it should be here next week....

RenHoek

03-09-2005, 11:32 AM

Mustang2:
I decided to jump into the RC hobby head first and got the new SS 46 kit. Although I'm an RC noob, I'm mechanically inclined so putting it together was no problem at all. One thing that really impressed me was the very nicely organized assembly process. The SS manual has great illustrations of each step, and the parts are all bagged and tagged. It says "open bag C" and all the parts you need for the next few steps are there in that bag. Also, the 1st time you need an allen wrench of a certain size, it's in the bag too. All the plastic pieces are easily ID'd too.

For the SS 46 kit, the tranny and diffs are already assembled, so you don't have to mess with that. For future reference though, the manual does include detailed assy breakdown of these items.

Read through the posts for electronics suggestions (I went with Futaba 3004 for throttle & reverse, and 3305 for steering) Also get a 2/3 AA 5 cell receiver pack. The Sub-C packs don't fit. The Rx box doesn't have too much extra room to spare. You can just squeeze a Fail Safe and external charge plug into it. I'd highly recommend the external charge jack for the rx pack, since it's not all that easy to get back into the box once the lid's on.

All in all a very nice kit.
-RenHoek

Mustang2

03-10-2005, 01:53 AM

well this is the .25 I want to know the one w/o engine and pipe is the diffs and all put together...

BlueBeast8-Port

03-20-2005, 03:27 PM

Hello, i need help. i have the SS and wasp .26, was runing great and flawless tell i blew my rear diff. The shaft with the 2 spyder gears..... one of the gears blew into 3 pieces. Should i get some upgraded diffs or the 4 gear mod? How do i do that? Thanks

mooman

03-20-2005, 10:47 PM

I have a savage ss with .25 i need some kind of roto start that i can use with a cordless drill i dont like the roto start that u can buy from hpi. any suggestions

BlueBeast8-Port

03-21-2005, 06:57 AM

Pull it, its not so bad, than you dont need to lug any tools around. I dont see why people hate pullstarts so much. If your motor is primed with brightly lite glow plug, it should start on a few yanks. Dont pull it as far as you can or it will break. Just short little pulls. Ive never had a problem and dont see why people spend al lthe extra money to buy a heavy tool to lug around that does the same thing as a PS. Just my opinion

lardman

04-10-2005, 10:18 PM

personely i think all Savage Models are over-rated i recently had a Savage SS with a Wasp .16 installed in it and in honeslty ran about as good as my new REVO..
CHEERS, LARDMAN

wheeleze

04-12-2005, 12:00 AM

personely i think all Savage Models are over-rated i recently had a Savage SS with a Wasp .16 installed in it and in honeslty ran about as good as my new REVO..
CHEERS, LARDMAN

I'm trying to figure out why anyone would spend the energy to run down a truck that they obviously know nothing about. HELLO, the savage is not designed for a small block! Moreover, if there is a .16 savage running as good as a revo, you need to find someone to tune that revo.

Personally, I like both the revo & savage, but i'm a basher that loves to put things together so I chose the savage over the revo. I have yet to break parts as a result of car on car collisions, yet managed to wipe out a buddies revo twice, diff gear once and rim another. NOt on purpose... it happens... just like the trees and rocks that have destroyed my savage... or is it the driving? :rolleyes:

Toys are toys, better in some ways, worse in others. If you have productive input, then let us hear it. If you are here to put things down, then show some reasons. If the reasons are SLIM then shut the hole on your chin before more trash falls out.

CHEERS,
wheeleze

Salica

04-13-2005, 03:01 AM

The savage ss is great it was my first nitro car truck. The day i finished building the truck i went out to the race track and ran. I didnt do to well but it was so fun. I cant wait till i go again. And the truck is incredibly fast!!!! with the .25 but a pico .26 makes a big difference. Anyways i hope i can count on the more advanced drivers to help me this race season i want to win!!!

losiguy1090

05-08-2005, 03:57 PM

I raced my Savage all last year with ZERO problems. Won every race, never had equipment problems or nothin. Well at the start of winter I put in a more powerful engine and after a while I snapped the clutch springs. So I put some new ones in, ran fine for a while, snapped again. Put in a 3 shoe clutch ,same thing. The other day I put in an Ofna alluminum clutch w/ heavy duty springs and I STILL HAVE THE SAME FRIGGIN PROBLEM. I dont know what the heck is wrong, but for some reason, every time I snap the springs, the clutch bolt[the one that secures the flywheel to the engine] is always just loose enough to not be holding the flywheel. I'm using plenty of blue locktite and am getting it nice and tight. Can someone tell me what is wrong? I've gone from winning almost every race, to finishing dead last every time due to equipment problems :mad:

Thanks in advance, this is just making me really mad cuz I havnt been able to complete a whole race in 5 months due to equipment problems, when I used to have none. :(

wheeleze

05-08-2005, 08:45 PM

I say the loose flywheel nut is the hint here, since engine rotation should keep it tight. Are you sure it is getting tight enough, using a piston lock or crank lock to secure the nut? After using locktite for a while, it builds up, making it harder to tighten the nut. If the flywheel is slipping, the springs will grab the nut and loosen it, and after it comes off so far bye-bye springs.

The only other possiblilty that i can think of is if the engine is starting in reverse. I know that gas 2-strokes can run backwards... Doe's it run at all before snapping the springs, or do the springs snap as soon as it starts? This shouldn't be a problem unless your using a rotostart with the one-way on backwards & the polarity reversed on the roto.