HPI Savage SS Forum

[StevePond]

HPI Racing is proud to introduce their unassembled kit version of our Savage monster truck, the Savage SS!


http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/p845box.jpg


One of the biggest requests we have received has been for a kit version of our popular Savage truck. For experienced R/C modelers, the satisfaction of building a kit is a big part of what makes the hobby fun. Assembling a kit from scratch also allows the Savage SS owner to build the kit to their exact specifications and customize the truck by adding any option parts such as our Reverse Module, anodized TVP and roll bar sets and Roto Start System during assembly. Since many drivers already have advanced radio systems that are perfect for the Savage SS, we don't include a radio, which helps lower the price so that we can add high performance hop-up parts and still keep the cost of the truck low. Simply put, kits are fun, convenient and price-conscious!



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/pSavSS34Chassis.jpg



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/pSavSSSideChas.jpg


HPI studies show that modelers who like to build kits are almost always more advanced drivers than RTR customers, so we decided to give the Savage SS more speed. We bolted in a new Nitro Star S-25 engine with 20% more displacement, added a ribbed aluminum tuned pipe, and adjusted the gearing to take advantage of the increased power. The result is a dramatic increase in speed and performance.



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/pnitro_star_s-25.jpg


The new Nitro Star S-25 engine features:

· 20% larger displacement than the 21BB engine
· Billet purple anodized aluminum heatsink head for improved cooling and strength
· Composite carburetor for improved heat resistance
· Large 7mm carb opening for increased airflow
· True ABC chrome sleeve construction for durability and long life
· Dual needle adjustments for easier tuning than the 21BB
· Purple anodized aluminum carb trim
· Stealth black case for improved cooling
· Roto Start compatible



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/psavss_pipe.jpg


A new high performance ribbed aluminum tuned pipe and an aluminum tube header allow the S-25 to breathe freely for improved power and throttle response. Held in place by a silicone exhaust coupling and a spring-loaded metal wire mount, this rugged exhaust system will stay in place through the roughest terrain imaginable!



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/psavss_gearsk.jpg


For increased adjustability we added a new 49 tooth spur gear, and included two different clutchbells in the kit. The 15 tooth clutchbell is perfect for off-roading and wheelies. The 18 tooth clutchbell is best for on-road driving and high speed runs. The 49 tooth spur gear gives racers a wider range of gearing options, and helps the truck benefit from the additional power of the S-25 engine.



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/p86151-2.jpg


The extra power of the Nitro Star S-25 engine won't do any harm to the full-time 4WD drivetrain of the Savage SS - equipped with the same proven hardened metal differentials of the Savage 21 and with the addition of the chromed Heavy Duty Dogbones, there is no need to worry about the durability of the powertrain! The included slipper clutch and fiberglass disc brake are easily adjustable for tuning the truck to optimal performance under all track conditions.



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/psavss_adjustable_arms.jpg


For the Savage racers, we've included new stiffer purple springs on all 8 oil-filled shocks - still the longest shocks in the monster truck class for top-notch handling in ruts and bumps! The new springs deliver improved performance both on-road and off-road. Drivers will notice that the truck launches better over jumps, and you can easily remove the spring clips to lower the truck for less chassis roll during on-road cornering. For extra tuning ability we've included our adjustable upper arms with thick steel turnbuckles for extra durability!


The Savage SS includes many of the proven features from the original Savage: Twin Vertical Plate (TVP) chassis, heavy duty reinforced suspension arms, uprights and knuckles, adjustable slipper clutch and disc brake, rubber sealed ball bearings, hardened metal diff gears, cast aluminum engine mount, 17" wide stance for extreme stability, chrome 5-spoke wheels, giant treaded truck tires with inner foams, compatibility with all T-Maxx bodies, wheels and tires, and a large box with colorful graphics to stand out on dealer's shelves.



http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savagess/pSavSSstatic.jpg


The popular Nitro GT-1 body is supplied clear instead of prepainted, so Savage SS owners can custom paint their bodies as they wish. A unique sheet of Savage SS decals is supplied with every kit so owners can show off their new pride and joy!

HPI will be offering many new exciting option parts in the future, including a graphite TVP chassis set, and more colorful anodized aluminum option parts.

Features:

· Nitro Star S-25 engine (ABC) with slide carburetor
· Purple anodized, billet aluminum heatsink engine head
· Adjustable upper arms with thick steel turnbuckles
· Stiff purple shock springs
· Pre-trimmed unpainted Nitro GT-1 truck body with pre-cut decals
· Giant 1/8th scale (16.8" x 21")
· 40+ miles an hour!
· Full-time shaft driven four wheel drive
· Complete set of rubber sealed ball bearings
· High performance aluminum ribbed tuned pipe
· Aluminum high flow tube rear exhaust header
· Cast aluminum heavy-duty engine mount
· Heavy-duty drivetrain and suspension optimized for big-block engines
· Hardened metal differential gears
· Extra tuning gears for off-road and on-road performance
· Heavy-duty chromed steel dogbones
· Adjustable 2 speed transmission with heavy-duty metal internal gears
· Adjustable slipper clutch
· Adjustable disc brake
· Wide-track suspension (nearly 17 inches wide!)
· Stainless steel inboard hinge pins with anodized aluminum braces
· 8 long stroke oil-filled coilover shock absorbers
· Rigid aluminum TVP chassis (Twin Vertical Plates)
· Large 160cc fuel tank with primer
· Enclosed radio box for protection of electronics
· Front and rear skidplate bumpers
· Adjustable body posts (with an extra mount for SUV bodies)
· Chrome 5 spoke wheels and all-terrain tires with inner foam
· Compatible with T-Maxx bodies, wheels and tires

Also Available!
· #87032 Reverse Module (using the 3rd channel of the radio system)
· #87110 Roto Start System (will fit Nitro Star S-25 engine)

#845 Savage SS Kit with Nitro Star S-25 Engine and Nitro GT-1 Truck Body

[Lord Radeon]

They did it right with this. Looks nice.

[StevePond]

Yes it does. Wish they were going to have them in time for the truck race we're putting on in a couple weeks. I'd love to kick Kevin's ass with one of these! ;) :p :D

[DaFF]

Awesome :D

[grimlock3000]

wow, a kit monster truck! i thought i would never see the day, thanks hpi!

[crono man]

speed was the ONLY thing lacking to the savage now with that engine,its almost perfect!!

HPI just raised the stakes real high for the other brands let the battle begin!!

im getting this truck for sure!

[MrCrash]

Where,when and how much?Scratch that.Where and when?

[TC3Racer]

whoo hoo! looks like we may have something that will silence the 2.5 maxx. YES!

[NewToNitro]

WOW! I was just about to order a savage RTR. This looks awesome!

[MrCrash]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFCB0&P=7

[islandfire71]

hi, does anyone know when the kit will release? i just order the RTR today, i'll cancel the order if the kit release soon.

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by islandfire71
hi, does anyone know when the kit will release? i just order the RTR today, i'll cancel the order if the kit release soon.

Well tower has it on order...i would guess its maybe a month away.

[evild]

Originally posted by islandfire71
hi, does anyone know when the kit will release? i just order the RTR today, i'll cancel the order if the kit release soon.

I'd cancel that order and wait for the SS. I was about to order the RTR in a few days. I'm going to wait now.

Just my .02

[Skribble]

Got any information on those HPI Dirt Bone tires?

[InspGadgt]

OMG YES! Finally a company listening to more then just the bashers and leaving the rest of us out. Thanks to Frank and everyone at HPI for taking this bold step ahead of the pack. I only hope the Savage SS's success will prompt more companies to do the same!

[nitroice0069]

this is great a very good mt just made even better can't wait to get my hands on one of these

[RC Jack]

Sure would be nice to see kits again!! This RTR stuff gets old, besides, no one ever really knows what makes these tick until they build one. I just may have to break down and buy one of these......and change it:D as I go along!:D

[LouD]

oooh yea :D i like it :) only i already have a savage :P but i will be buying all these nice parts :D

[atm92484_3]

HPI does it again. I defiently have to get one of these. Its nice how they even included a couple of the popular hop-ups. Nice work HPI.

[Frank McKinney]

A "couple"? There's several:

new S-25 engine with billet aluminum purple cooling head and slide carb

ring tuned pipe and aluminum tube header

adjustable upper arms with thick steel turnbuckles

new stiff purple shock springs

chromed Heavy Duty Dogbones

extra gears tuned for off-road or on-road enjoyment (i.e., wheelies or top speed, you choose!)

;)

[NewToNitro]

Frank,
Any idea on when we will see it in stores? Can we expect the price to be about the same as the RTR Savage? Would have been cool to see the new Dirtbone tires on it. But those wouldnt be too cool for the bashers i guess.

[MAXX 2.5]

from hpi's site it said August 2003!!! i am so gonna own one. think this will finally kill the tmaxx or atleast slience it!!!! WOOT!!!!!!!!:D :D :D

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

WOW!!!
sweet job

only thing frank needs to do now is to make a movie of a RTR savage and the SS!!!

[metal gear]

I wonder how good of an engine that .25 is. Can't wait to hear about it when released

[MrCrash]

)Wasn't the 21bb just a repackaged force .21?If so,then maybe this is a force .25 in disguise.Just please don't hurt me if I am remembering wrong.It's been a long day,and sleep has been hard to come by(dang Inferno:mad: :D :p

[atm92484_3]

Fine Frank...more than a couple. :D

Crash, thats all the engine appears to be. Still though I've seen quite a few Savages with Force .25s and they move really well.

[InspGadgt]

Reguardless of who makes the engine...the write up states 40+! :) That's enough to make it as fast if not faster then the cult inducing T-Maxx...

[hpimaniac]

OMG I WANNA STRANGLE HPI!!!!!!
:mad: why they put this up now lol. i have a savage with a .25 force in it and man does it move, instant wheelies too. i have to buy a new clutch bell to control those wheelies, but wow it really is nice. BUT WHY HPI;( why now lol. oh well my brother says hes buying it so im happy now ^_^. Pretty cool though it does look real nice too. the rtr savage is nice and all but this kit one is making me jealous.... oh well at least mine beats tmaxx's too.

[BigBadTahoe]

This would of been great about 3months ago! I already have 2 T-maxxes because of the different motor they used, and now the Savage! I can't buy another savage just for this new motor! or can I? It would be nice if I could just buy a new engine and these springs for my rtr savage. When will they be avalable? Or would I be better off getting a picco .26? or is that too powerful? Please some one tell me! This is unbelavable! So what should us rtr savage owners do, upgrade to this engine or a force .25 or a .26? With a 15t clutchbell? Advice needed!!!:confused: :eek: :confused: :eek:

[R6905]

Darn, now i have to find money to buy this thing...... That looks so AWESOME!!! CANT WAIT TO SEE IT IN ACTION!


Brandon

[Pro3/nmt105]

I would of liked to see a kit without an engine, but I guess HPI has to make money off somthing, its still much better than a rtr and other companys will see that a kit is a good idea after seeing the sales that this kit will have. I just Hope HPI isnt over stocked on the rtr's because not many people will buy them now.

[Suade907]

Good job HPI. We speak you listen. THe way it should be.

[SN VipeR]

Nice work Frank! There's no replacement for displacement!!! :)

[Colt M4]

Nice job HPI. Hey dubduceddurago here is a good idea but it might be alittle expensive put a sirio .27 in there.

[reggie]

oh man, i think i will ask "santa clawz" for one fo these, forget about a tc 3 !!!!! l333333t !

[BigBadTahoe]

For the price of a .27 Sirio I'd rather buy the new SS Savage! I don't want to spend more than $180 on a new engine for my RTR Savage. Hopefully RCCA will test the SS and will say if the engine has enough power. I think it would. :D

[MrCrash]

I hope that they test the .26 soon.I can't wait for them the tell me what I already know...THAT IT ROCKS!!!:D :D :D

[FrankT]

what do think of an OS .21 RG-x and a R B 86 pipe in a savage.I looking for some muscle and realiablity..
Thanks Frank

[Godspeed]

This is it!!! HPI has given me the answer to which truck i am getting next. :D

[lerningdriver]

i wonder what traxxas is going to do about this...:rolleyes: :p

[PCC]

Originally posted by FrankT
what do think of an OS .21 RG-x and a R B 86 pipe in a savage.I looking for some muscle and realiablity..
Thanks Frank It's a good engine that is lacking a bit in the muscle department.

[REX RS4-3SS]

I'm just happy we finally get more gearing options!!!!Are those the same adjustable upper arms they sell for the RTR?They look a little different and stronger too.

[jtkc2001]

The 1st unassembled non-rtr Monster truck that can actually handle the terrain of serious racing on off-road tracks = JUST AWESOME INDEED!

I have tested out several conversions and trucks, but the Savage 21 RTR was just awesome stock and is still running with stock parts and has seen some nasty wrecks that I know the T-Maxx 2.5 would have broken in about 5 places.

It is about time that some company released an unassembled Monster truck kit that is REAL good. There are some out there, that come without an engine and etc. In my experiance the Savage 21's ALWAYS finish the long 30 minute mains where as the T-Maxx's, Dominator's and other mods never do. Enough said.
Honestly I am suprised that HPI released something this good as thier cars are not that great, but thier Savage 21 is rock solid. I am impressed. Ever notice how many Savage 21 boards there are out there now? I know of at least 8 so far.

[muswagon]

it is the force .25, IMO :)

[jtkc2001]

Put on an Ofna 8-port Race version engine with a modified HPI Roto-start system and you are super powered = 2.9 HP rocket!

[Godspeed]

Hope HPI will release some videos of this beast soon. Can't wait to see it in action. :D

[PCC]

Originally posted by jtkc2001
Put on an Ofna 8-port Race version engine with a modified HPI Roto-start system and you are super powered = 2.9 HP rocket! The Hyper 21 8-Port Race engine does not come with a pullstarter to put the Roto-start system onto. Even if you got the pullstarter from the pullstart versions of the Hyper engine on it (easily done, I might add) the Roto-start system won't fit it.

[fezzy]

Actually you can get pullstart 8-port race engines :D

And without doing a un-questionable ammount of modifying to the rotostart, It wont fit on a 8-port.

[rc man37689]

i wonder how much pain someone suffers when this beast hits
them. In other words how much does it weight? 30 lbs J/k
15?

[R6905]

well, a t-maxx at 40 mph will break your leg, it weighs something like 10 pounds?




Brandon

[*Miller*]

Erm...

Sweeeeet! :eek: I was turning away from nitro, but looking at that puppy, and considering the fact that I am moving to a more rural location, this could be a good buy :)

[Monster19]

I want one, I think HPI just took over the monster truck world. but I wish they had a kit without an engine.. Still i'm going to buy this..

[atm92484_3]

Its still dirt cheap. If you want a kit without an engine, why not just toss the 25bb on Ebay and get a few bucks towards your engine of choice.

[draggerman11]

Looks very good. Definitely gives the T-Maxx a run for its money if the truck holds up at 40 MPH as well as it does at 30 MPH.

[BigBadTahoe]

I wonder if Traxxas will come back next season with a .21 or higher kit and rtr T-maxx that is bigger and tougher? They have to do something if they want to do battle with HPI and the others!

[killarush]

Originally posted by rc man37689
i wonder how much pain someone suffers when this beast hits
them. In other words how much does it weight? 30 lbs J/k
15?

Well if I remember rightly, one of the rcnitro vids shows a Maxx w/proline widetrack suspension jumping over a car at about 1/2 throttle. The final jump went wrong and the truck hit the c-pillar of the car. The truck actually smashed the side window because of the sudden impact. This wasn't anywhere near the 30mph+ top speed of the maxx by any means.

Just goes to show that these things are dangerous and shouldn't be overlooked. I used to run my HPi Rush at WOT down the main road through my village when the coast was clear. It had an STS MT.12 race engine in it which churned out 38,000rpm+ and 1.4hp. not the sort of thing you want pounding into your leg at any speed really...

[Zod]

nice to finally see an HPI savage kit , but why in the hell did they include an engine ??? i am almost sure that this engine won't be has reliable as a OS .21 RG-X , for the rest it seems OK but maybe HPI will release an EXTREME version of the savage with all the Hop-ups included in the kit , then i will buy , for now i think i will PASS, but 2 thumbs up for the kit version .

[PCC]

Originally posted by fezzy
Actually you can get pullstart 8-port race engines :D

And without doing a un-questionable ammount of modifying to the rotostart, It wont fit on a 8-port. I know that they make a Hyper 8 port engine with a pullstart. I have one. The question is if they make the Hyper 8 port Race engine in a pullstart. My brother bought one of these and it came as a non-pullstart. I know that the pullstarter assembly from my non-Race 8 port will bolt right up to the Race engine but I did not know that it was sold in a pullstart version as well.

Are you agreeing with me about the Roto-Start not being able to be fitted to the Hyper engines?

[RCDoon]

Looks like the new savage will come out in 2 kits

#845 Savage SS Kit with Nitro Star S-25 Engine and Nitro GT-1 Truck Body
#844 Savage SS Kit with Nitro GT-1 Truck Body Without Engine

I found this on HPI's Europe Website!

RCDoon

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by RCDoon
Looks like the new savage will come out in 2 kits

#845 Savage SS Kit with Nitro Star S-25 Engine and Nitro GT-1 Truck Body
#844 Savage SS Kit with Nitro GT-1 Truck Body Without Engine

I found this on HPI's Europe Website!

RCDoon

We wont get the engine less version. Europe also has a radio-less rtr kit.

[Possumbot]

Yes i'm wondering if europe has a stronger market for cars than we do because they get more cars and more options on the cars we do get.

[46u]

LOOK OUT T-MAX!!!!!!!!1

:D

[killarush]

Originally posted by Possumbot
Yes i'm wondering if europe has a stronger market for cars than we do because they get more cars and more options on the cars we do get.

I'd highlyly doubt that we have either a stronger market over here, and that we get more option parts for the cars here. The US is the biggest offroad RC market as far as most manufacturers are concerned, but I'd say both the UK (Europe) and Japan probably have a stronger Touring car following than in the US.

It's only really over the past couple of years that the UK has really 'caught up' with the US as far as kits and upgrades are concerned, but we still are deprived of a lot of the specifications that you get with your kits over there. For example, the GS Storm RTR in the US comes with a very nice JR radio set. Over here they sell the same kit for a much higher price, but give us a crappy Futaba Attack 27mhz radio set instead. There are a lot of kits like that over here...we seem to pay more, but get less. :(

[atm92484_3]

Thats enough incentive to just get kits.

[rc man37689]

rcca should a review or a battle between a savage ss and monster gt .They SHOULD come out at almost the same time

[Techspert]

Originally posted by rc man37689
rcca should a review or a battle between a savage ss and monster gt .They SHOULD come out at almost the same time

...please :mad:

The monster GT will probably be delayed another 6 months. They are also missing the boat with their ho-hum .21 engine... A classis case of ya-snooze-ya-loose.

[tbill]

well, i have 2 savage's, 4 motors, and a boat load of upgrades, but i do believe when these hit my LHS's shelves, i will have one:)

[MAXX 2.5]

tower just droped the price on the savage to 359.99!!!

[rhcsavage21]

i want 1..... or 2..... or 1,746,645,537,453,543
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :cool:

[shanethemill]

I don't know a lot about rc racing. But can anyone give me some advice on what radio to get since the savage ss doesn't have one included. Preferably one that can be used with the reverse gear accesory. Should i be thinking about the savage 21 instead? I'd love to build it from scratch!!!!

[atm92484_3]

Go with something like the 3PDFX from Futaba. They're roughly $120 for the 3 channel computer radio without servos. No matter how you go on the Savage though, expect to spend $75 on a steering servo (those $40-$50 600 series Hitecs just don't cut it with this truck).

[RCDoon]

What about the Jr Z590M for a steering servo?

[hvp014]

yes i can finally use my jr's(Xr3i) multi-car capility! thank u HPI! i always wanted the savage in a kit. and those new parts geez. good job:D i know what i want for christmas lol

[PCC]

Originally posted by shanethemill
But can anyone give me some advice on what radio to get since the savage ss doesn't have one included. Preferably one that can be used with the reverse gear accesory.
The Airtronics MX3 is a relative bargain for what you pay. It has a feature set that is similar to the 3PDF but is a few dollars cheaper. If you plan on getting the reversing module then you use the two servos that comes with the radio for throttle/brake and reversing then buy a high-torque servo for steering.

[Dragger]

Too bad I just bought a dragster, I could have gotten that probably, but I have a type SS so I'm not complaining.

[shanethemill]

Originally posted by PCC
The Airtronics MX3 is a relative bargain for what you pay. It has a feature set that is similar to the 3PDF but is a few dollars cheaper. If you plan on getting the reversing module then you use the two servos that comes with the radio for throttle/brake and reversing then buy a high-torque servo for steering.





Just looked it up. Seems like a good idea! It costs about $195 on their site, that's with the two servers, and the sk112 high torque servo is around $30. Is there anything cheaper out there that doesn't have the LCD screen. I don't think i'd ever use all those options. I agree I will need a high torque servo, and a three channel transmitter/reciever with two servo's. But not with the FM and LCD extras. I'm getting it for the savage ss when it comes out, and that's just a hobby. No racing for me!!!

[islandfire71]

hi, i have a question, does Hitec HS-5625MG Servo Metal Gear S/JR/Z (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ76&P=0) work on Airtronic MX-3 radio system? thanks

[islandfire71]

hi, i have a question, does Hitec HS-5625MG Servo Metal Gear S/JR/Z (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ76&P=0) work on Airtronic MX-3 radio system? the HS-5625 is fast and strong enough for the savage rite?

[MAXX 2.5]

the 5645 mg servo is more than enough, i use that servo in my hyper 7 and its great

[fezzy]

I just stumbled upon this vid of the Savage SS, It looks really quick!

http://www.radiocontrol.gr/video_hpi_savage_020803.htm

[rc man37689]

thanx for the vid
i dont know how to say this but i think im getting out of rc :(
im not getting the savage ss then:(
ill just save for a extreme computer:(
and go blind (sigh):(

[Ferrari]

Ups... i buy a Savage 21, 3 weeks ago, Now i can't buy the new Savage SS, duh...

Hey do you want a Savage 21???:D

[rc man37689]

for free? ok!

[808 nitro tc3]

wow everyone is so anxious on getting the ss

[mr_subliminal]

Some one had asked earlier if the roto start will work on the new .25's in the SS kit. The HPI site says it will.:D

[FastTec]

Is bigger always better? Both trucks are great, but there a few things that need to be squared away.


The T-Maxx has a .15 it manages to reach a mind boggling 45+, but Savage .21 reaches only 31. This little .15 outran that big block .21, now there's a .25 after that little .15 motor. If it wins over the T-Maxx I won't be suprised the Savage SS has a .25, it should the motor is way bigger ,but if it doesn't.

The T-Maxx is still king of the hill...with a small block :p

[DrDiff]

Traxxas already has its answer to the Savage SS out. The Sport Max. It is a hybrid of a RTR and Kit. You buy a 2wd RTR and then you spend even more money than it would have cost you to get a T-Maxx 2.5 from the get go on things like a 4wd Kit, a reverse kit.... etc.

I agree that the idea of a Monster truck Kit is well past due, though Kyosho beat HPI to the gate with the Mad Force! Not everyone likes RTR's! Some people like to build. I agree that we need a second version with no engine.

I am saving for a Savage SS and HPI Ford Bronco body, I already have ideas to duplicate the rock crawler from Monster Garage!

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Originally posted by FastTec
Is bigger always better? Both trucks are great, but there a few things that need to be squared away.


The T-Maxx has a .15 it manages to reach a mind boggling 45+, but Savage .21 reaches only 31. This little .15 outran that big block .21, now there's a .25 after that little .15 motor. If it wins over the T-Maxx I won't be suprised the Savage SS has a .25, it should the motor is way bigger ,but if it doesn't.

The T-Maxx is still king of the hill...with a small block :p

And there are .12 engines that will beat the 2.5.

The Cen MT2 has a .16 it goes 45 beats .21 size engines they do this by having higher rpm which is easier to do with the lighter pistons. To get a .21 with high rpm is going to cost a bit more. Plus the maxx & Cen MT2 are lighter than the bigger 1/8 scale trucks.

Now look at a 1/10th scale MT with .21 engine like Ofna Pirate 10MT it goes 49mph with just a single speed no 2-speed so you can see how a like size (weight) vehicle to the maxx with a .21 will smoke it. Add a higher tooth cb and your in the 50+ range with the ofna prate 10MT. put in a 2speed, just like a maxx has, and 60 is possible.

And here is a great example
Look at the 2.5 SportMaxx with single speed only 30mph the Pirate 10MT .21 single speed 49mph beats it by nearly 20mph.

Or the Mad Force its 43 mph but gets there with a .21 with no where near the rpms a 2.5 puts out. Plus I bet Kyosho didnt spend 2 YEARS designing that .21 engine like Traxxas did with the 2.5 or I bet Cen Racing didnt spend 2 YEARS designing that .16 that makes he MT2 go faster than the 2.5

[wgbackyardbashr]

I just bought the Savage 21 about a month ago. I decided that I would get the RTR model because it was my first nitro model RC and figured it best to start out with a RTR and get a kit once Im familiar with the nitro rcs. I started running the RTR and loved and I cant wait to make it better so as soon as regain sufficiant funds I am going to get almost all of the upgrades in the SS (maybe a picco outlaw .26) ne one know if it will fit???

P.S Hopefully the first start of the ss will be better than the RTR

[MrCrash]

The picco .26 DOES fit very nicely into the savage,and can use the roto-start,if you want to start it that way.It makes a HUGE improvement on the power of the savage.Your gonna like it:cool:

[wgbackyardbashr]

thx dude. how much is it by the way. maybe il do the upgrade this winter. I got an electric rustler that needs to be fixed :mad: up and so hopefully il find the engine for cheap. At the same time i upgrade the engine im gonna lower the gear ratio for the 2nd gear to put the tmaxx in its silenced place - 2nd well with the ss 3rd:D

[MrCrash]

I bought mine for $179.01 after tax.My LHS could probably ship it to you for pretty cheap.If your not in Michigan,you wouldn't even have to pay tax,as far as I know.Lemme know if you want their website.

[ekizzle]

That savage looks reall nice!

Fellas can we please stop with the "my truck is better" business!

I love this hobby. I enjoy each truck for each of it's individual qualities.

I personally have a EK4 V1 yes the old style none restricted diff tearing over powered stiff suspension having beast! but that is what I'm into TTR has shipped me the full upgrade kit (free) extra diffs, diff cases, new clutch, carb restrictor etc.... yeah about $400 of stuff for free! I havn't put any of it on my beast yet becuase I have yet to destroy anything. I know that alot of people have different issues with thier trucks. Alot of people complain and sometimes the problem can be operator's errors. But none the less we all love our trucks. I have a T-maxx as well and I don't see any point in comparing the two trucks. If I want super power (I can grabb throttle and flip it on it's back even with a rolling start) and with the new 18t bell crazy speed I grab my Ek4. If I want a realiable super truck I grab my T-maxx.There is no reason that some one could not replace the names of either truck in that sentence with the Savage or mad force or even Nitro quake.

Everyone of these trucks are different in thier own right if you ask me. Hell I love to swap controllers with my brother when he brings out his super hyped Monster pirate with a metal two speed and a G-1 pico motor. That thing is some where in between my maxx and my EK4-V1 but distinctly different. It is great in it's own right. I enjoy the challenge of touch tuning each motor to perfection when ever I take them out and warm them up. Every day that sweat spot on the carbs seem to drift just touch with the wrinch and/or screw driver and no other truck will run like them. Man I just love this hobby!

[8thscaleracer]

Well Said!!!!


:D

[wgbackyardbashr]

Sorry if I offended ne1. No offense but just my luck to be the 1 to be lectured. The only reason why I said that sentence was because I was sick of everyone talking about this great new 2.5 engine when in reality its just a .15 (even though it pumps out tons of power). Heck that truck was runner up.

[2.5 guy]

Originally posted by metal gear
I wonder how good of an engine that .25 is. Can't wait to hear about it when released

Once I get the money(and the truck), you guys will have my opinion

[2.5 guy]

Originally posted by hvp014
...i know what i want for christmas lol

Me too!

[Paul E. Garcia]

I bought Hotbodies clutch shoes/springs. Apparently, these shoes don't work with the stock clutch parts; in the process of trying to install the shoes they became marred slightly.

I would like to use them esp. since they're paid for. Any ideas? Are these shoes significantly better than stock?

Relatedly, when I called the LHS to complain I was informed that a refund was unlikely since the shoes are damaged. Shouldn't the LHS eat the cost due to bad advice? (BTW I got the stock clutch shoes/springs on rapidly with no damage).

[POKeY]

Hi guys-

I just ordered my Savage SS yesterday and should have it by the end of next week. I can't wait! I'm glad HPI had the sense to offer the Savage in kit form.

I was originally going to get the OFNA Titan, but I've heard too many people complain about it. My second choice was the Savage, but I wanted something with a little more "balls", and the price is unbelievable.

The SS seems to be the perfect choice for me... guess I'll find out soon enough.

Later-

jeremy

[BurnsDX]

Where did you order it from, I didnt think anybody had them in stock.

[POKeY]

BurnsDX... I ordered it from my LHS on Tuesday this week. They called one of their suppliers and found out that he had over 200 SS kits backordered and was getting 30 SS kits this week. He told my LHS they could have one of them, so it should be here sometime next week.

thanks-

jeremy

[Philly's Finest]

my lhs has them and has had them for like a week or two. i might pick one up around x-mas time

[jasonmak]

Well, I bought the Savage SS about a week and a half ago from my local hobby shop here in Japan. I immediately canceled my Tower Hobbies backorder when I saw that. It's all put together so hopefully I'll get to fire it up tomorrow. Bummer how the SS doesn't come with the RotoStart.
I want to know if the reverse module is the same. #87032 is what they have listed on this site....dunno if it's the same as the stock one or if it's different.
I hope you guys get it soon!

[zero0000]

I managed to snag the only SS my LHS had in stock about two weeks ago. Got it all put together last week, finished break in, and have just started tuning for power. It went together incredibly well. I've already installed the reverse module, roto-start, and a center skid plate and gas tank gaurd from New Era Models. The aluminum bling-bling stuff will really get started with the next paycheck....

[egdinger]

WOOO, my savage ss shipped out today. I'm going to put in the diff mod when I build it, thinking about putting a header tank on it. Keep ya posted.

[YadMon]

does anyone know when the SAVAGE SS will be in stock at Tower Hobbies?

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
wow, a kit monster truck! i thought i would never see the day, thanks hpi!

its not a 100% im led to believe some things are prebuilt like the diffs, which is shame, cause i wouldnt have minded an SS, but i wanted to add the 4 Bevel diff mod, but this wil lrequire a diff rebuild, still easier than doing it on an rtr :)

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by YadMon
does anyone know when the SAVAGE SS will be in stock at Tower Hobbies?

there seems to be a world wide shortage of them, ive been informed some distributors are out of the SS, and the yare like Gold dust in the uk
can u say ebay :)

[egdinger]

Mine shiped out from tower on the 25th, might see if there in now.

[savss]

Edgi....when did u place your order?
I placed my order on the 20th.
I check towers website everyday to see if the
ss is in stock. It's not as of the 26th. I'm
getting tired of waiting. I might just cancel,
and get it from rcmodels. They have it in stock
as of the 26th.

[savss]

I've had it placed on back order since august 2nd,
then cancelled it in the beginning of september due
to the long waiting, but replaced my order on the 20th.

[goodjerm]

I also place an order with Tower and found out the backorder was huge. I cancelled that and order today from rcmodels.com. They have them in stock and shipped mine today (same day!). This is my first monster truck, I'm looking forward to it.

[egdinger]

I placed mine late august, guess they didn't even get enough to fill the back orders. This truck is turning out to be more popular then I thought.

[YadMon]

i have back order from 09/10/03!

Bahhhhhh!!!

[savss]

Well guys, I finally cancelled my order at towers,
and order it at rcmodels last night. They have them
in stock.
I should get it at the end of next week.
CAN'T WAIT!

[YadMon]

but them not shipped to Israel:mad:

[POKeY]

Xtreme Pro 3...

Could you (or someone else) post a link to the diff mod that you mentioned, and maybe even elaborate on it's advantages?

Thanks-

jeremy

[BurnsDX]

I think this is what you want.

http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=2200

This is a very good Savage site.

[egdinger]

WOOO, my savage came today, spent all my time building it, but I'm stuck now, I need a throtle/brake servo. but it realy bugs me how the put all the parts in different bags, took me forever to find anything.

[savss]

Hooray for me.

My SS was shipped yesterday, from rcmodels.
Should be here by the weekend. Monday, the
latest.

Towers suck.
I just checked their site, and the SS is now
expected in LATE October.
Damn!

[goodjerm]

I just got mine yesterday from rcmodels and started assembly last night. I'm about half way done, this thing is sweet! The instructions are good and they tell when to open what bag of parts. I like that the diffs and tranny are preassembled:-)

[egdinger]

yeah it was nice having the preasembled parts, but I wted to do the diff mod so I had to rip them apart :mad:. any one else have the shocks be too stiff and extend the supension arms past reasonable lmits and binding up teh drive lines? or did I assmble somthing wrong? but the thing does go to gether nice, and it's bigger than I thought it was gonna be.

[goodjerm]

I just finished mine last night. I have been running 1/10 electric stadium trucks, so the SS seemed reel big to me too. Especially the steering knuckles and lower arms.

Regarding the binding axles, it did seem like they would bind until it was completed and nothing is binding. Did you install the little black rubber o-rings on the outdrive end of the dogbones? That's the only thing I can think of. It won't be too long before I put CVD's in. Hot Bodies has them for 28.99pair from Tower, also MIP makes them but their 56.99/pair. I was also looking at Dynamite from Horizon Hobby for 34.99/pair. I think it would be a wise investment along with a fuel tank guard.

[goodjerm]

I know I was the last one to post, but I finished mine and here it is. I cut out the funny looking fake nets and roll bar from the window stickers.

[POKeY]

Hi guys-

Got mine in last week and broke it in Sunday. Total build time was about 7 1/2 hours (that's watching TV while putting everything together over 3 nights). I could have done it in 4 - 5 hours if I had dedicated time with the truck being my only priority.

Over all I was impressed with the kit, but I thought the instructions sucked. Maybe AE's instructions have spoiled me;) . There were a few sections that could have used some clarification, plus having more that one bag open at a time (sometimes as many as three) can be confusing and frustrating.

Break-in went well. The engine started right up after re-adjusting the stock needle settings. I've had other Force-based engines before and found out with the first that the intitial carb settings are worthless.

The .25 SS engine does like to run a little on the hot side off-road (300* +/-). I've read other people's posts stating the same thing. The engine runs fine and there is a STEADY stream of smoke flowing from the pipe, but it was hot. Funny thing is it passes the "spit" test on the top of the engine head, but the temp gun doesn't lie. I'm going to throw on my 3-shoe buggy clutch next time out and see if that helps the temps any. On-road the engine ran about 230-240*.

This is my first MT and I am very impressed over-all. Seems very tough. I know I gave it some hard licks bashing around with friends. There was a lot of slop in the parts (arms, wheels, etc.), but $2.00 for a few packs of shims fixed that.

I think HPI did a good job with this one.

Good luck guys-

jeremy

[Maxxcrazy]

I'm going to get one around christmas time. Is the .25 powerful enough? I was thinking about getting a Wasp .26. Would it make a big difference?

[XXXtacy]

That depends on what you mean by "powerful enough" lol...

It's plenty of engine, though. It took mine about a gallon of fuel to be broken in fully, and it's quite powerful, easy to start and tune.
With HPI's engine exchange program, you get a new one for $99 too.
Nice features...
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/ntrostar/s252.jpg http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/ntrostar/s25carb.jpg

The WASP is a bit more engine... you'll just have to decide for yourself if you want more after driving your truck. IMO money would be better spent on a good clutch setup and tuned pipe.

[FunkyLarma]

There have been a lot of problems with the backplate on the S25 engines from HPI.
HPI are aware and are fixing new kits/engines so if you buy around Christmas you should be fine but until then check the HPI website forum for details.

[POKeY]

Many of the first engine's backplates were not loc-tited. Mine was not and did work loose after about 8-9 tanks. Luckily, I found the problem before I ran it anymore or my engine would have been ruined.

After a gallon of fuel my only damage has been a stripped spur gear (my first in 2.5 years of running, lol) and the one-way bearing's outer case cracked down the center. Oh yeah, the stock rims in the rear got stripped out (and yes, I was using the upgraded wheel hexes). To fix that I glued the stock hexes in the rim with CA and having had a problem since, and have ran it that way for about 1/3 - 1/2 gallon.

The spur was my fault. I added a 3-shoe clutch kit that makes it almost impossible to get the perfect gear mesh. The one-way breaking and rims stripping were beyond my control though.

I've been bashing the truck pretty hard and the suspension, chassis, etc... is VERY tough.

My next mod will be installing the OFNA steering kit (only $20) and then I will probably not upgrade much more on the truck.

The engine still runs kinda hot, but other than that is a real performer.

Later-

jeremy

[XXXtacy]

Loctited mine before the engine ever saw fuel, but then again I research a lot...

On the wheel hexes-

If you assemble the truck as the instructions say, the wheel nuts will have a natural tendency to loosen, thus stripping the wheel. Even with the updated hexes. I've reversed mine, i.e. silver axles/nuts on the right and black on the left. Problem went away:D


The only difference in the new hexes vs. the old is the texture molded into the face of the new ones that's supposed to grip the wheel. They're better, but reversing the axles almost guarantees your nuts won't back off.

[nad138]

xXx,

How many tanks/gallons have you run through your SS with this config ?

[Soloithz]

Check out newly built SS!

Its in the HPI Savage 25 Forum at the end of the thread page 2 and 3. Tell me what you think of the paint job!



By the way can someone tell me how to post hyperlinks to other replies or threads?:confused:

[XXXtacy]

Originally posted by nad138
xXx,

How many tanks/gallons have you run through your SS with this config ?

2 race nights (both wins:D ) and quite a bit of misc bashing, almost a gallon and a half and so far not once have the nuts backed off on me. It works. I use the stockers to bash and to race I use bowties on RPM stablemaxx wheels.

In their stock config, they'd back off within one tank no matter how tight I cinched the nuts down- didn't want to use loctite, cuz I take my tires off after every run to clean the mud off, and I swap between two sets of tires. Loctite takes about 6 hours to cure.

[geo8498]

my savage ss

[geo8498]

my savage and my hot bodies lightning

[Maxxcrazy]

I guess I'll keep the .25. You said I should get a tuned pipe. Doesn't the SS come with a ribbed tuned pipe? Or is it not good enough? What about the Hot Bodies CF sideplates? They look great. My truck is gonna be a racer/basher. But the price got me suspicious. CF material is way more expensive than aluminum. Is there a flaw or something or are the Hot Bodies exectiutives just crazy?

[XXXtacy]

The stock pipe is nice for torque, but lacks top end. I'm still running the stock ribbed pipe, but plan to get a RB 086 soon.

Don't know about the CF TVP's. I'd bet the stock ones are stronger.

[Maxxcrazy]

I think I'll get the hardcore ones

Also, does the SS have the same fuel tank and clutch as the Savage 25?

[Soloithz]

The S25 RTR comes with a tank with no primer and a 3 shoe clutch. The SS kit comes with a primer tank and a 2 shoe clutch

[BigDaddyT]

Hey Gang,

Has anyone got a Savage SS from Tower recently? If so, when did you pre-order?

[FunkyLarma]

There is also a difference in the pick-ups on the fuel tanks between the RTR and the SS.
I think the SS has the same tank from the 21 Savage with a front fuel pick-up that could cause the truck to lean out as the tank empties.
Where as the RTR has a new rear pick-up tank, that should solve this problem.

[unknown person]

Well,

i brought a savage ss off ebay and its coming in a 2 weeks (im importing it from USA and i live in the UK)

Cant wait till i get it

Did u guys paint the shells urselves cuz i is no good at painting (never dun it infact) so it looks like ill get a t-ma** proline body or sumink.

Oh well

UP

[XXXtacy]

The SS includes window masks, overspray film, and plenty of decals...

[Sav25]

Originally posted by BigBadTahoe
This would of been great about 3months ago! I already have 2 T-maxxes because of the different motor they used, and now the Savage! I can't buy another savage just for this new motor! or can I? It would be nice if I could just buy a new engine and these springs for my rtr savage. When will they be avalable? Or would I be better off getting a picco .26? or is that too powerful? Please some one tell me! This is unbelavable! So what should us rtr savage owners do, upgrade to this engine or a force .25 or a .26? With a 15t clutchbell? Advice needed!!!:confused: :eek: :confused: :eek:


BigBadTahoe,

I.m sure you've heard by now, but just in case you didn't...
HPI is offering an exchange program that will allow you to send in your other mill and upgrade to the .25 for $99.

Peronally, I'm a newb, so I went with the RTR. just ordered from Tower tonight. It's my first nitro, otherwise I would've went with the SS. Plus the RTR isn't back ordered...

[wheeleze]

Has anyone else had problems assembling the suspension. I'm having difficulty keeping the o-rings on top of the shock towers when tightening them so the oil doesn't leak out. I'm using 30wt, but don't see that as a problem. I got my savage 4 days ago, and am getting frustrated. I just purchased a plug kit so I can get rid of the servo wire... Anyway, shock advice is good :confused:

[wheeleze]

duplicate post

[wheeleze]

duplicate post

[wheeleze]

duplicate post

[XXXtacy]

if you look inside the shock cap, you'll see a groove. that's where the o-ring goes. just try to get opposite edges in there (180° apart) then screw the cap on and it'll seat.

[wheeleze]

Originally posted by XXXtacy
if you look inside the shock cap, you'll see a groove. that's where the o-ring goes. just try to get opposite edges in there (180° apart) then screw the cap on and it'll seat.

Thanks XXXtacy! I was on auto pilot when putting the shocks together, so the 0-ring ended up on the outside of the shock: a combination of preprogramming from AE and somewhat vauge instructions. Now, I'm almost running.

New question:
I did find a small air leak around the primer, which I'd attribute to the leaning problem people are talking about. I assume this can be fixed by taking out and sealing the primer hole, or waiting for the RTR tanks. Is there an easier way to take the primer out than trying to cut it out with a dremel. I'm going to attempt to use the all purpose cutter to cut a section out of the primer so I can remove it. Anyone out there have an easier way? I don't want to wait for another backorder from TowerHobbies.

[Walter]

Whats the best way and shape for a 5 cell AA RX pack?
Walter

[wheeleze]

Walter:

I currently have a 2 over 3, trinity, hump pack and the receiver plate seems to hold it down fairly well. There isn't enough room to tape it down though...


I'm wondering if a 1 over 4 pack would fit: allowing room for sticky tape, or shoe glue, to keep it from sliding.

[Walter]

It seems the Savage radio box is just big enough for a 4 cell AA pack to be able to close it up properly. I have a 5 cell hump 1 over 4 stuffed in with the outer radio cover kind of stuck over the top,,, not very splash proof ect,, maybe I will move it to the outside??????
Walter

[Grifter]

Does the Savage 25 come with HPI HD Dogbones?

Thanks!

[ALJR]

Originally posted by Grifter
Does the Savage 25 come with HPI HD Dogbones?

Thanks!

no. but there supposed to be stronger than the savage 21 bones..




there is no way you guys are going to fit 5 "AA" batteries in the savage and still have it look decent! You could fit 5 "AAA" w/ no problem. but why would one want to do that when they could buy a 1200mah 6volt hump pack from ofna for $20! ofna uses 2/3 "AA" cells. which are smaller than regular "AA" cells...

regular "AA" cells have a current max of 2000mah.. excellent for a tx. but too big to fit 5 cells for the rx...
regular 2/3 "AA" cells max at 1200mah @ 6volts/5cell
and "AAA" cells max at 800mah

as you guys may know, you want to use 5 rechargable cells for the rx. rechargable cells only put out 1.2 volts. where as regular batteries put out 1.5! so only 4 regular cells are needed to get 6 volts! you want to use a 6volt pack! expecially if your using high tq servos!

[goodjerm]

regarding rx batteries

i use a trinity 5 cell square rx pack in my SS. It's a AAA with 800 mah, but I lasts for 4-5 tank fulls. I also use an Ofna fail safe 'cause you never know!

[rkilling1]

Originally posted by ALJR
no. but there supposed to be stronger than the savage 21 bones..




there is no way you guys are going to fit 5 "AA" batteries in the savage and still have it look decent! You could fit 5 "AAA" w/ no problem. but why would one want to do that when they could buy a 1200mah 6volt hump pack from ofna for $20! ofna uses 2/3 "AA" cells. which are smaller than regular "AA" cells...

regular "AA" cells have a current max of 2000mah.. excellent for a tx. but too big to fit 5 cells for the rx...
regular 2/3 "AA" cells max at 1200mah @ 6volts/5cell
and "AAA" cells max at 800mah

as you guys may know, you want to use 5 rechargable cells for the rx. rechargable cells only put out 1.2 volts. where as regular batteries put out 1.5! so only 4 regular cells are needed to get 6 volts! you want to use a 6volt pack! expecially if your using high tq servos!

hump pack's are 2/3 A's not AA's.

[wheeleze]

Both HPI and Trinity put out 2/3 A cell hump packs that fit nicely into the savage and include charging connectors, for around $30. HPI is a little cheaper on TowerHobbies and 1200 mAh, where trinity is 1100. The price reflects the name, but trinity's pack is working good for me. The voltage is peaking around 7.1.

[ALJR]

Originally posted by rkilling1
hump pack's are 2/3 A's not AA's.

your absolutly correct.. duno where my head was :)

nitro house has the ofna 1200 packs for $19.99!!
http://www.nitrohouse.com/batteries_&_chargers.htm

i use them in my ntc3, 1/8 buggy and my savage. the last me all day and then some on a single charge! i run high tq servos in all my cars too!

[unknown person]

well,

how much are the 3 shoe clutches these days 4 the savage 25 cuz i want to put them in my ss

Can u get the stock sav 25 radio? i want to put it in me ss, with a high torque steering servo.

basically is the ss the same as the 25 but the 25 has more stuff with it.

i have some sanyo 1200mah batteriez and they used to last me two days (10 tanks) dunno why but they did

[wheeleze]

Originally posted by unknown person
Can u get the stock sav 25 radio?

You can get the radio gear on ebay. Run a search for "savage radio".



Switch the axles from left -> right????

Does everyone else out there think the SS instructions tell you to put the axles on the wrong sides. If one follows the instruction, then the axles will loosen up whenever throttle is applied. Could this be the problem with the rims stripping out?

[ALJR]

Originally posted by unknown person
well,

how much are the 3 shoe clutches these days 4 the savage 25 cuz i want to put them in my ss

Can u get the stock sav 25 radio? i want to put it in me ss, with a high torque steering servo.

basically is the ss the same as the 25 but the 25 has more stuff with it.

i have some sanyo 1200mah batteriez and they used to last me two days (10 tanks) dunno why but they did

the 3 shoe clutch should run you around $25 or so. it sould come with every thing! but at that price, it will most likely have the stock clutch shoes, not the aluminum shoes... there is a guy on ebay that sells aluminum 3 shoe clutches for $12 a set!!

most of the hpi radios that are on ebay don't come with servos for some reason! the stock servos are not the best. but they do work decent! if your interested in a compleat savage radio set-up. send me a pm! i have a new, never used radio set-up that i took out of my 25rtr... i installed my racing gear into my new savage and never used the stock stuff!!

the savage ss and 25 rtr are the same trucks! only the ss comes it kit form. which means you have to build it your self. it also comes with a few performance upgrades that the rtr dosn't come with... the ss goes for around $330 and the 25rtr goes for about $425! so if you can get a decent deal on a radio set-up. you could have a better than 25rtr for less than $380-$390!! and you get to build it the correct way!

thake a look at this thread if your interested in the savage radio:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1221461#post1221461

[geo8498]

I keep having problems with the lever on my brake. The cam lever always pulls to the point that it no longer engages the pin. I mean, it actually pulls almost 90 degrees and slips past the brake pin. No brakes. Does this happen alot on the Savage? Any suggestions?

[ALJR]

Originally posted by geo8498
I keep having problems with the lever on my brake. The cam lever always pulls to the point that it no longer engages the pin. I mean, it actually pulls almost 90 degrees and slips past the brake pin. No brakes. Does this happen alot on the Savage? Any suggestions?

i am not too sure what your talking about. but i think your refering to the button that sits in the brake-cam (the part that pushes against the caliper)?? if so, it sounds like your step screws that secure your calipers in place have losened. if they are tight, then maybe your disk is worn and is now too thin? if that is the case, put some washers under the step screws to take up some of the slack...

if none of that is correct. please provide us with a better description of the problem. maybe include some part numbers and diagram numbers from your manual (also which manual you are refrencing from, ie: savage 21, savage 25, savage ss)...

[geo8498]

Yes that is exactly the problem. There is alot of slop in the brake plates. The screws are tight. I'll try the washers. Thanks.

[ALJR]

here are sme pics of my ofna 9.5 servo saver mod!

this first pic shows where you will need to grind some of the arms away. you can use a dremil or hobby knife.. this need to be dun so you will get FULL left/right swing of the steering rack. if you do not remove this material, the steering rack will make contact with the front diff input! where the arrows are pointing is were i removed material..

[ALJR]

this next pic shows where you need to shave a little off the under side of the radio tray. if you look at your stock radio tray, you will see that it is raised up a little. shave off the raised part (very little).. see the pic i enclosed. if you look close and compair it to your unmoded part, you can see just how little was removed...

[ALJR]

this last pic shows the assembly installed. you will use the stock savage drag-link (this is the par that connects the left post to the right post). you will also use the stock screws to attach this part. you will need 4 washers (2 on each side) to remove some slop..

also note the direction of the drag link! you want the ends to point forward. if it is installed in the other direction, it will not fit! see pic!

this entire assembly can be purchased really cheap off ebay. i think i paid $3.99 for mine!! it comes with bushing, but you could always install some bearings if you like... i am still using the bushings and even at that, it is VERY smooth!

also, you going to want to crank down the adjustable servo saver spring till if fully tight! the savage has much larger tires than a 1/8 buggy!

[unknown person]

wooo hooo!!!!!! My car came today , but i missed the post:mad: so its coming 2morrow.

Cant wait to get this thing built and running

what radio would any recommend (nothing too expensive, im only 15!)

has anyone seen the twin engined savage yet! (new era models) looks nice and probably is fast as anything, but the fuel tank is only 75cc so a little 2 minute job

[egdinger]

Well I good and not to expensive radio is the jr xr3i.

[XXXtacy]

I'm running an XS3 in mine, same as the xr3i but crystal-less. Excellent radio and the Z590M servo that comes with works well too. The 3i should cost about $160 and can be configured to work with a reverse module if you decide to install one.

BTW excellent post, ALJR!

Does anyone happen to know if OFNA bevel gears/pins fit in the diffs? I have some but I'm too lazy to tear it down and find out. :p

[ALJR]

Originally posted by XXXtacy
[BDoes anyone happen to know if OFNA bevel gears/pins fit in the diffs? I have some but I'm too lazy to tear it down and find out. :p [/B]

i am not 100% sure about the gears. but i am 100% sure the pins fit! i am using the 4mm notched ofna pins in my savage diffs for the quad spider gear mod...

[XXXtacy]

I couldn't take it anymore lol...

YEP!! They fit!

[nitro13]

well today i went to the hobbyshop and put my savage ss on order :D it should be here in about 4 weeks for my stering servo i got a 120 oz stering servo. what hop ups should i get first when i get it.and i know the transmision is prebuild from factory but is it preset to chang gear from the factory or will i have to adjust it.

[wheeleze]

Originally posted by nitro13
what hop ups should i get first when i get it.

I would recommend the following from the start:

1. 160cc HPI tank with rear pick-up and no primer, or the dual tank mod.

2. Ofna linkage kit to replace the stock servo saver.

3. HPI Bearing upgrade for the steering.

after running one gallon, you'll want to seriously consider the diff mod.

You can check out www.savage-central.com/article29.html for more info.

[Toycar]

Originally posted by Walter
Whats the best way and shape for a 5 cell AA RX pack?
Walter

I run a 5 cell Sanyo 2100 mih AA rx pack. I don't have a reverse module so the space for the servo is used for the 5th AA cell. I soldered in series the five AA cells. Four batteries in a sguare(shoe goo) shape that fits where the normal 4 cell pack goes with a 2-3" length of wire to the fifth cell and then on to the connector. It works well I get 4-5 hous no problem out of it. I run a hitec 945 on the steering and a a 645 on the throttle/brake. I bought a charging jack and a micro switch from radio shack. Put the charge jack on the right of where the original switch was and the micro switch just below and behind the original switch. The switch is inside a ballon so it doesn't leak and the charge jack is all sealed up with silicone. The radio box is sealed. Even with the radio box cover on there is soo many tiny holes the box gets filled with crap. If you don't seal all those tiny holes, don't even think of running through water. Oh yah, All the electronic components are in ballons including the servos. I ran through water when it wasn't sealed up my throttle/brake servo flooded and it stopped working and the radio box was flooded lucky the receiver is up high.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by wheeleze
I would recommend the following from the start:

1. 160cc HPI tank with rear pick-up and no primer, or the dual tank mod.

2. Ofna linkage kit to replace the stock servo saver.

3. HPI Bearing upgrade for the steering.

after running one gallon, you'll want to seriously consider the diff mod.

You can check out www.savage-central.com/article29.html for more info.

Hey,
Which tank are you talking about? the rear pick up one on the rtr 25?
i thought those have primers
Also, what bearings do savages use in steering? 5X8s?

[wheeleze]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
Hey,
Which tank are you talking about? the rear pick up one on the rtr 25?
i thought those have primers
Also, what bearings do savages use in steering? 5X8s?

The rtr 25 tank doesn't have a primer. I guess they removed the primer because it is known to get air leaks from what I've read on different forums.

The bearings used in the steering upgrade are 6x10.

Both items are listed at www.towerhobbies.com

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

Hey,

For christmas I was thinking of getting Savage SS. I have much experience with nitro, so the nitro deal is fine. Its just is there anything that I should know before I purchase the savage? I am getting a hitec 645 MG servo, and a MX-3. Anything else that i should know? I'm looking foward to getting the Savage. Please reply, thanks.

Later,

-Garrett-

[wheeleze]

After 10 tanks, I'll add to the listed I posted earlier in this thread.

Replace both servo savers that come with the truck!

For the throttle linkage, I'd recommend Ofna #10721-10725, the last digit is for color. For steering, either the Ofna linkage mod, which is discribed earlier in this thread, or simply pick up a Kimbrough #124 servo saver.

[monyet fangkeh]

Originally posted by Toycar
I run a 5 cell Sanyo 2100 mih AA rx pack. I don't have a reverse module so the space for the servo is used for the 5th AA cell. I soldered in series the five AA cells. Four batteries in a sguare(shoe goo) shape that fits where the normal 4 cell pack goes with a 2-3" length of wire to the fifth cell and then on to the connector. It works well I get 4-5 hous no problem out of it. I run a hitec 945 on the steering and a a 645 on the throttle/brake. I bought a charging jack and a micro switch from radio shack. Put the charge jack on the right of where the original switch was and the micro switch just below and behind the original switch. The switch is inside a ballon so it doesn't leak and the charge jack is all sealed up with silicone. The radio box is sealed. Even with the radio box cover on there is soo many tiny holes the box gets filled with crap. If you don't seal all those tiny holes, don't even think of running through water. Oh yah, All the electronic components are in ballons including the servos. I ran through water when it wasn't sealed up my throttle/brake servo flooded and it stopped working and the radio box was flooded lucky the receiver is up high.
can u show me pic of the 5 cell aa pack? do u use batt bar to connect each batt?

thank you

[Needler56]

i'm planning on getting a savage ss because i want to use my air caliber 3ps radio. what cell format do i use for the radio and from what i read, what cell do i use if i opt for the reverse module. correct me if i'm wrong, but do you use a high torque servo for the steering and a highspeed servo for the throttle? i don't want to spend too much on servos, but is the hitec 645 a good servo? thanks for reading.

[Needler56]

one more thing, how durable is the pullstart for the engine? i heard before that the savage 21 had a fragile pullstart, have they improved upon it?

[wheeleze]

Batteries: I've managed to fit Trinity's 2 over 3 1100mAh Rx pack in my savage with little swearing, and I do have the reverse module. They are A cells and I don't think it's possible to fit a 5 cell AA pack and reverse servo without serious modification to the electronics box.

Any input out ther on how well the 1 over 4 A packs fit?

As for the servo's: I don't think a high speed, or torque, throttle servo is necessary unless you plan on adding weight via aluminum hop-ups. Since the aluminum parts do look sooo good, you might want to get high torque servos for both the steering and throttle so you can turn the large wheels and have some power pushing the vented disk breaks you'll need to stop it :D

Pullstart: I'm new to nitro, so I don't have a basis for comparison, but this is how it's going in my SS. I broke in the engine with 6 tanks and no problems. The cord is starting to frey after another ten tanks with the body on, but that is only because I haven't cut more space out of the body around the starter cord. I guess that's one vote for a good pullstart.

[wheeleze]

Originally posted by Needler56
is the hitec 645 a good servo? thanks for reading.

I only have good things to say about hitec, from years of electric RC experience. The 645 will work well until you a few pounds of upgrades, then you can move the 645 to throttle and slap a 5645 on the steering.

[Needler56]

Originally posted by wheeleze
I only have good things to say about hitec, from years of electric RC experience. The 645 will work well until you a few pounds of upgrades, then you can move the 645 to throttle and slap a 5645 on the steering.

i don't see a 5645 on towerhobbies..would it be advisable to get a reverse module?

[wheeleze]

I got my 5645 off ebay, but it's listed at tower. Item LXUZ80.

I 4x4 a lot, so reverse comes in real handy when I get stuck, not to mention being in a wheelchair. I'd recommend reverse if your backyard bashing, but it is unnessary for running on a track.

I'd imaging it looks cool doing reverse wheelies, but I put 5k oil in my front diff, so mine won't wheelie in reverse. 1k in the rear lets me flip it if I'm not carefull with the throttle :rolleyes:

[Needler56]

what is the difference between the "updated standard" and the "heavy duty silver" dogbones?

[wheeleze]

The heavy duty silver dog bones are chromed. Chrome is a lot stronger than the metal itself.

[Needler56]

chrome coated or 100% chrome?

[Spraguepsycho1]

Hello,
I haver an rc10gt right now, but 3 of my friends just went out and bought the 2.5 Tmaxx's. I want to buy a monster truck, so I can run same style trucks as them, but don't like the Maxx. Everything I've read on the Maxx forum says before they can handle a good running bigblock you have to spend like $300 in trans and diff mods to beef them up. How does the stock Savage drivetrain hold up to extreme power, are the trans and diff strong enough for a big power .27? I've checked out videos online of the Maxx,Savage, and the Monster GT and from what I've seen the Savage seems to handle the best, and it's the only Monster I've seen so far that really catches my eye. Has anyone on here ran against any of these other trucks with your Savages? If so how did they compare stock or modified. Is the Savage as fast with the stock 25 engine with the bigger stock clutch bell as the 2.5 Maxx? Thanks

[wheeleze]

Originally posted by Needler56
chrome coated or 100% chrome?

chrome plating reinforces the steel from what I understand.

[wheeleze]

Spraguepsycho1
I was in the same boat as you when deciding which MT to get. I chose the SS for the sole reason of building it. Either one has a BAD resell value, but that's not why we're buying them. The savage has it's share of weak points and I've posted a link to a good article on them about 18 posts up in this thread. As for the strength in the diff & tranny, there are upgrades for both a .46 or twin engine savage that require other 'reinforcement' parts, so going with the .26 could put you on the way to a dual .26
:D

[dmrcflyr2]

Hi all. I just completed my SS. I too, just like wheeleze selected the SS because it was a kit. I enjoy building almost as much as running the trucks plus you have the confidence that it was built right. I did add some additional parts while building.

I did the diff modification converting to a six gear diff. I also installed and Envy 3 shoe clutch. I installed bearings in the steering mechanism. Lastly I installed the roto-start backplate. Other than that the truck is stock.

I ran it for the first time today. I had to lean the high speed needle about 1/2 turn to get the operating temperature above 190. I ran the truck at various speeds with some idling in between. It began to shift into second gear on the second tank. Overall I am very impressed.

I am just bummed that the building is over. Here is a picture.

[Spraguepsycho1]

I'm most likely going to just buy the rtr so I can get the 3 channel radio with it, then mod the heck out of it over time. So nobody's told me, will it keep up with or beat the 2.5 Tmaxx?

[dmrcflyr2]

Spraguepsycho1

It is a heavy truck and not nearly as nimble as a T-Maxx. It depends on what you mean by 'beat a T-Maxx". A straight line race or on a dirt track? There was a head to head review in a mag about a year ago with T-Maxx vs Savage 21 and the T had the upper hand. Now that the Savage has a .25 things might have evened out.

Much of your question boils down to the skill of the driver. Get one and enjoy it.

[kitty]

Originally posted by Needler56
i don't see a 5645 on towerhobbies
5645 servos here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=5645&FVPROFIL=++). Always look for that search box near the top right on the main page at Tower. I just put in 5645 and that's what popped up. =)

[VMach]

Has anyone tried the Nova M.A.D. shock towers yet?

[rkilling1]

Originally posted by VMach
Has anyone tried the Nova M.A.D. shock towers yet?

take a gander here:

http://www.hpisavageforum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6482

[VMach]

I seen that just looking for some more imput from different people. I'm just waiting on the towers to show up in the mail as I have the shocks already. I'll be putting Hyper 7 rear shocks on it with the black springs. I was hopping someone had a simular set-up.

[geo8498]

I just got a set of Imex 40 rims and Jumbo Maxx Claw Dawg tires for my Savage. Tried them out tonight, but stripped out my Hobbico CS65 servo. I replaced it with a Hitec 645MG , but I'm sure it's not going o be a big improvement in the handling area. In the meantime, I'm switching back to my stock wheels. What servo should I upgrade to to run the big tires? I was thinking of Hitec 5645. Anyone have advice for a good setup, and gear ratio?

[speedydave]

Depends how much you want to spend...

I mainly race, and I used to have a 2.5 T-Maxx to bash, and I loved driving it, but it was rare that I had it in driving condition more than two or three tanks in a row. I want to get another basher truck, mainly to jump, maybe to bring to the track occasionally, but probably not to really race(at least, not seriously..though, knowing me, I'll probably end up racing it anyway). I'm stuck between another 2.5 T-Maxx(because I'm familiar with the truck, and because of it's supposed advantage on the track) and a Savage SS. My question is, what kind of problems have you had with your Savages, and what kinds of hopups have you found necessary for the truck pretty much out of the box? The main things I'm comparing between the trucks is potential cost(in initial cost, hopups, and potential broken parts), and durability(I tend to be pretty hard on my bashers...:) ). Thanks.

[VMach]

There are more hop ups out there for a T-Maxx but they cost more than the Savage hop ups do. A lot more are need too! With the Savage you can get by with just modding the hubs and carriers and puttng a Monster Pirate servo saver on it. Of coarse with any RTR you need to upgrade the steering servo, I recommend a Airtronics 358. There are other little things you can do to make it handle better that cost much at all, like shock oil and diff oil for example.

[momo]

I just got a savage 25 for christmas. It started right up the first time when I started it for the first part of break in. The second time i tried to start it, the roto-start spun but the piston didn't move. I pulled the roto-start reciever apart to see if there were stripped gears or something but everything looked fine. I tried to start it again and it worked but it seemd that the roto-start was still slipping. Then after barely starting two more times it stopped working again. I took it apart again and re-assembled it but that didn't work.

I'm impressed with the performance of the truck, but very disapointed in roto-start. Can anyone help?

Thanks

[VMach]

Sounds like the oneway bearing broke on the back of the engine. The oneway is in the part where the roto start rod goes into. Look for a crack on it.

[Needler56]

yeah, i've heard of two incidences where the one way bearing was the culprit in being unable to turn the engine. its either dirty or its stripped from what i've been told and i don't know exactly what causes it.

[VMach]

When the engine is brand new it has a ton of compression. Turning the motor over when it's new has all that extra fuel going into is really hard on the oneway bearing. Sometimes the oneway breaks it breaks. One thing to try is loosening up the glugplug before try to start it. Then as soon as it starts tighten it back up.

[momo]

I'm now sure the problem is in the one way bearing. I looked closely and there is a crack in the nut that surrounds the bearing. Anyone know if it's covered by warranty? Sure hope it is, considering it's a $17.00 piece.

Any tips on how to avoid doing this again would help.
Thanks for the help

[VMach]

No they won't cover it under warrenty! The tip you need is right above. Loosen the gluw plug to where when the ingnighter is on it you can loosen it and tighten it. Have it loose when it first turns over and after it starts tighten it up. Then put the glupg wrench on and tighten it up the rest of the way. After you have it boke in real good you should not have to do this anymore. Unless of coarse you flood it. You can also do this on the first start of the day to make starting it easier. Only takes a few extra seconds and will save your oneway.

[raderrustler]

Originally posted by geo8498
I just got a set of Imex 40 rims and Jumbo Maxx Claw Dawg tires for my Savage. Tried them out tonight, but stripped out my Hobbico CS65 servo. I replaced it with a Hitec 645MG , but I'm sure it's not going o be a big improvement in the handling area. In the meantime, I'm switching back to my stock wheels. What servo should I upgrade to to run the big tires? I was thinking of Hitec 5645. Anyone have advice for a good setup, and gear ratio?

The new punisher servo from xtm puts out 175 oz/in of torque @ 4.8 volts plenty enough for the savage or any other MT. I would go back to the smaller clutch bell also.
Randy

[momo]

Is the one way bearing for the savage 25 with roto-start and the one way bearing for the savage 21 with pull start the same?

[VMach]

The oneway bearing for the 21 pullstart, the 25 pullstart and the roto start motors are all the same. PN 1430

[momo]

now i'm having another problem. When i try to prime the engine nothing comes throught the fuel line. but i tested the line and it's not clogged or torn

???

[Needler56]

yeah, one time i couldn't get it to prime so i finally decided to read the manual (truck manual) and it says to cover the stinger and hit the rotostart for "7-10sec" and it will prime. then plug in the glow ignitor. it works like a charm. if that doesn't work, then your guess is as good as mine :)

[cbr74]

Any of you have an 86097 or 86136 gear and a set of calipers handy?

I'm looking for some measurements... overall height, tooth face height, and drive pin slot depth.

TIA

[SN VipeR]

Here's my video of our big off-road meeting we had last Sunday. There were 7 Savages (.21, .25 and .26), one T-Maxx and two 1/8th buggies tearing up a huge gravel pit.
Enjoy:

you'll find it here:
www.snviper.ch.vu/hp_downloads.html
or directly:
http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/vidgravelpit1.wmv

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/vidgravelpit1.jpg

I'm looking forward to hear your comments. :D

[nitro13]

those were some very good videos sn viper

i should have my savage ss hear this week :D .been waiting almost 2 months since i ordered it.

[Needler56]

what are the lenghts (preferably in inches) of the upper arms (each piece, not including the turnbuckles)?

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by SN VipeR
Here's my video of our big off-road meeting we had last Sunday. There were 7 Savages (.21, .25 and .26), one T-Maxx and two 1/8th buggies tearing up a huge gravel pit.
Enjoy:

you'll find it here:
www.snviper.ch.vu/hp_downloads.html
or directly:
http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/vidgravelpit1.wmv

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/vidgravelpit1.jpg

I'm looking forward to hear your comments. :D
I must say........................Great vids!!!!!

[unknown person]

wow cool vid:D

[kitty]

Hey, guys!

I'm almost finished building my Savage SS kit. I decided when I bought it to go ahead and incorporate some of the mods listed on a few sites while building it.

There is one part that I've had problems with and that's the Ofna Dom/MP servo saver. I installed it according to an article I copied from a Savage web site, but the problem is, it won't allow full steering turn. The arm on the Ofna saver post that attaches to the ackerman/cross bar bumps against the driveshaft. I had it mounted on the opposite side of the ackerman as directed in the article. I tried taking the saver apart and flipping it over, but that doesn't work either, so I went back to the stock plastic arm and plan to buy a heavy duty servo saver if I can't get the Ofna unit to work.

Has anyone else done the Ofna Dom/MP servo saver post mod and had the same problem and if so, what have you done as a work-around for it? I'm using Hot Bodies CVA axles all around if that's any help (front, rear and both center axles).

Thanks in advance! I'll try to post a pic or two once I get my new baby put together. I put the first coat of paint on the body earlier today and am letting it dry overnight before putting on a backing coat. Meanwhile I'll be assembling the linkage. I'm still waiting for my disc brake hub to get here so it'll probably be at least a week before it's fully assembled (I ordered a heavy duty brake hub to go with the Hot Bodies brake setup).
kitty

[XXXtacy]

Kitty,
There's a detailed post w/ pics a couple pages back that might help you...

this first pic shows where you will need to grind some of the arms away. you can use a dremil or hobby knife.. this need to be dun so you will get FULL left/right swing of the steering rack. if you do not remove this material, the steering rack will make contact with the front diff input! where the arrows are pointing is were i removed material..

[kitty]

Thanks for reminding me that was there, XXXtacy. Problem is, he used the 9.5 servo saver set (both arms, apparently) and I'm using the Dom/MP saver arm only. On this setup, the stock arm goes "below" (actually on top, but I'm speaking as looking at it from upside down) and the Dom/MP arm mounts "above" the drag link. I will look at mine a bit more closely to see if removing a small bit of material will help. I also went ahead and signed up on the forum where this particular mod was posted in hopes of getting some feedback there too.

Apparently, the 9.5 saver is a bit longer than the MP/Dom one. I noticed that ALJR had to shave a bit off the bottom of the electronics box (or whatever it's called - where all the servos mount), while on the MP/Dom saver mod, you actually have to add a shim to remove slop. I'm ashamed to admit this, but I bought my MP/Dom unit off a guy on eBay and ended up paying more for one with bushings than I would have on Tower for one with bearings. Plus, in every email from the guy, he kept making suggestive remarks. What a squid.

Thanks again, XXXtacy. Hopefully someone else around here has done the MP/Dom saver mod and can toss in their two bits. I'll update my results when I get this sorted out.
kitty

[raderrustler]

Hey all,
I am looking for anyone who has installed a different header than the one that came in the kit. It is very restrictive and I would prefere to have a header that did not have a flange inside at the front of the bend. The ones for my other .21's all hit the rear shock. If anyone knows of one please reply
Randy

[VMach]

I just took my dremal to it and ground the lip off. More or less matched the opening from the exhaust port. Don't get to carried away though.

[kitty]

I managed to get my servo saver re-installed without too much of a headache. For some reason, on the one I got, I had to pop off the big e-clip and flip the arms over. It wasn't too big of a deal because I had to take my truck halfway apart again to install an aluminum brake hub, HB brake set and do some more work on the electronics box.

I added a little bling by putting some neon green braided covers over my fuel lines while installing them. I was a bit miffed over my paint job, though, as the metallic black I used (backed with Indy Silver) doesn't look metallic unless you're about six inches away from it. Ah well. Now all I have to do is modify the tank guard (needs a small radius cut to accomodate the newer-style .25 tank), install the throttle/brake links and mount the shocks. Then it'll finally be time to start breaking in the engine.

I'm pretty hyped and anxious to get this baby on the ground. I LOVE this truck!
kitty

[geo8498]

Added a 1 once second fuel tank that I had in my shop. Tested it out and seems to work nicely in preventing the leaning out I was having. to prime when starting, I can just give it a squeeze.

[geo8498]

Added Ofna Servo linkage to throttle servo for more authority on the brakes.

[geo8498]

Originally posted by geo8498
Added Ofna Servo linkage to throttle servo for more authority on the brakes.

[geo8498]

a big problem i was having was with the weak screws on the brake disk. one of the screw holes even stripped out and I lost one of the screws. my solution was to use old front axles from an RC10GT cut down to the hex part. Dremeled a slot for a screwdriver. The hexes allow me to tighten them with a turnbuckle wrench if needed without having to take the tranny out. A screwdriver will not fit in there if you need to tighten the brake pads. Had to drill the pads a bit to fit. Really have good braking now. Note the aluminum brake hub and the carbon disk, which replaced the stock parts the first week I had the truck.

[geo8498]

throttle linkage showing the ball ends from Ofna servo linkage kit.

[geo8498]

Having added Imex 40 size rims and Jumbo Claw Dawg tires, the stock steering setup wouldn't turn the big wheels. Added an Ofna MBX steering linkage, which needed a little trimming to clear the center outdrive. I didn't think to take the picture until after I reassembled the truck, so you can hardly see the steering setup. The Hitec 645 servo and this setup seems okay on the work bench, haven't taken it out yet.

[Needler56]

those are some very innovative solutions geo. the front two reciever box posts snapped off on my savage. do you have any suggestions on how to design something so that the receiver box cover can stay shut and sealed?

[egdinger]

Velcro? Wrap it around the ladder frame and over the top of the radio box. If that doesn't work, may I suggest duct tape?

[Needler56]

Originally posted by egdinger
Velcro? Wrap it around the ladder frame and over the top of the radio box. If that doesn't work, may I suggest duct tape?

the front radio box posts snapped:

[Needler56]

Originally posted by egdinger
Velcro? Wrap it around the ladder frame and over the top of the radio box. If that doesn't work, may I suggest duct tape?

the front radio box posts snapped:

[Needler56]

excuse the unexceptional small pictures, i have three more pictures to show, but i'll just explain what i did for now:

-i drilled holes where the old posts were and installed body posts from my original hpi rs4 and made them to the same lengths as the original posts

-also, from an rc caraction magazine, i cut the front holes on the reciever box for easier installation.

-lastly, i added short pieces of fuel tubing (as you would for the fuel lid) to the three pins that hold down the reciever box cover for easier dis-engagement (for lack of a better word) of the pins.

[Needler56]

RS4 posts:

[1 Bad STi]

Fellas- for those of you that race Savage's how extensive of mods must be done to get these rigs to handle on tracks? Thanks

[Needler56]

have you guys installed ball bearings in the steering? the manual doesn't specify the dimensions of the plastic bushings, but on savage-central.com, they have an aluminum steering kit with 6X10mm ball bearings. i'm assuming they're the same??

[VMach]

6x10mm is the bearing you need.

[dmrcflyr2]

Has anyone that has done the 4 gear diff mode lost a bevel gear?

I built my SS with the mod and about 5 tanks later I had lost 5 teeth from my front diff. When I orderd the replacement diff from Ace Hardware Hobbies the guy asked me if I had the mod. Sounds like he has sold several bevel gears due to this. Incidentally, the gears are out of stock.

Just curious if I should go back to the stock configuration when the new bevel gears arrive.

Any thoughts?

[dmrcflyr2]

Ooops. Replace the word diff with 13 tooth bevel gear above.

[wrxdan]

This may have been covered a thousand times...but. If I get the backing plate and the starter shaft why can I just chuck the shaft in my cord less drill? Am I missing something?

I would need:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERG0&P=0

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERF8&P=0


This might be a lame question, just trying to save money.