HPI R40 forum

[dyslexic]

ok here's the solution i've come up with so far, swaped the rear belt to the front end and found a 64 tooth yokomo gt-4 wide front belt that I put in the rear end after adjusting the diff hubs to put as much tension on the belt as possible it's still a bit looser then I would like but after about 12 tankfuls of fuel today it's holding up just fine.

[CRSMP5]

the front 1 way acts as a slipper and eliminates front wheel drive i beleive in a turn... someone correct me if im wrong..

[RC_Alan]

Rkmori, I just picked up all three belts at www.ultimatehobbies.com The front/rear belts were $4.80 and the main center belt was $5.60. They also had suspension arms/rear hub set also for $6.50 and the HPI foam tires for $15.60 a pair... Just passing on the info incase anyone needs some extra parts... I believe they have next day shipping. I live 30 mins from Ultimatehobbies and just drove there. If you can't find the parts on there website, call the 800 number on the site and they'll be able to you. Goodluck

[RC_Alan]

CRSMP5, true to a point, they give you more/quicker steering control in the curves, but you also lose alot of brake control. It's almost like driving the car with out brakes, but you gain more control in steering/handling... Strange but true... You have to learn to drive the car differently with the front oneway. Does everyone need one??? No, but the gains out weigh the loses especially if you're driving the car on a RC track and not in a parking lot.

RC_Alan...
:)

[fastharry]

I finall started to put the car together..

I can see how the 2 sp will be a problem..

the whole trick is,thread the big allens into the shoes BEFORE you assemble the shoes and tighten the adjustment screws down...

this way they are pre threaded......Clean out the inside of the shoe when they pop out the other side..now take them out

then,assemble the shoes,tighten the shoes till they barely pull apart,then pop in the silver ball and allens....screw down gently,till each side just moves the shoe apart..then tighten teh allens down EQUALLY,doing each side the same so theres just barely a gap between the shoes..

NOW do the adjustmmet screws at 5 turns...


also,squeeze teh springs gently with a pair of pliers before you install them..

[mariog]

Thanks for answering the question on the one-way, guys! As I said, I am new at on road. I know the reasons for using thicker / thinner diff fluid for off road purposes - is it the same for on road? Do you think the stock 5k diff fluid is adequate or should I go with something thinner? What about the rear - is anyone packing it with fluid instead of the stock grease? Thanks.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by mariog
Thanks for answering the question on the one-way, guys! As I said, I am new at on road. I know the reasons for using thicker / thinner diff fluid for off road purposes - is it the same for on road? Do you think the stock 5k diff fluid is adequate or should I go with something thinner? What about the rear - is anyone packing it with fluid instead of the stock grease? Thanks.


I went with 15,000 Kyosho grease......

I can see how they designed the diffs to come out easy..nice job by HPI....


The only problem so far?..


I didn't get 3 of the pins that hold the gears on teh 2 sp shaft....


No problem...I made them out of 2mm piano wire...(who says spending 50,000 on RC cars don't pay off?;) )

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
I went with 15,000 Kyosho grease......

I can see how they designed the diffs to come out easy..nice job by HPI....


The only problem so far?..


I didn't get 3 of the pins that hold the gears on teh 2 sp shaft....


No problem...I made them out of 2mm piano wire...(who says spending 50,000 on RC cars don't pay off?;) )

I prefer spring (roll) pins, they are actually made from Heat treated steel (1070 - 1085 carbon or 18-8 stainless). and the are made for a slight interference fit so they stay in even if the hex drive for the wheel should come off or taken off. The stainless one are good for the off road cars. Good thing to have in your pit box.

[fastharry]

hey RK..I've got this car almost done....Then I can start going through it to fix stuff..


first,play in the rear arms.....

and play in the caster clips in front..

The allens that go in the knuckles are too loose..there;s no way they will hold an adjustment..

the top belt cover(front) in front needs to be trimmed....it warps when you bolt it down..

othet than that,not a bad car.....

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
hey RK..I've got this car almost done....Then I can start going through it to fix stuff..


first,play in the rear arms.....

and play in the caster clips in front..

The allens that go in the knuckles are too loose..there;s no way they will hold an adjustment..

the top belt cover(front) in front needs to be trimmed....it warps when you bolt it down..

othet than that,not a bad car.....

I noticed that the knuckes did not seem very tight, and did not look like they would hold the adjustment. The last time I raced I put it to the set-up board a few times and they did not move but I already had a fix for that should it be a problem. A little teflon tape should make it a little tighter with out binding too much. The one thing I did notice was the rear camber adjustment would collapse if you take a hard hit. I fixed that problem with the E clips. I'll probably check the front cover and caster clips. I'm sure the caster clip problem can be fixed with the E clips.

I'm currently looking for equvilent belts that is used in industrial applications. These hobby Mfg. would like ppl to think that what they sell are proprietory and nobody else makes them. That may be the case on some of the parts but not all, It would be cheaper to buy a "off the shelf item" and design the car with it than to tool up for a parts that maybe a few thousands different in size. It would not surprise me if they are buying their E clips from Rotor Clip. A world wide Mfg of retaining clips that is available from Mc Master Carr. Another good example is the hings pins used in most R/C cars, are probably actually Dowel pins cut to length for the application. I have been in Manufacturing for over 10 years, Held every position from Process/MFG/ Automation Engineer, to Quality Control Manager and have seen and came up up with many ways a Mfg Co. keep costs low.

[fastharry]

what part of the camber is changing?...Are the upper links compressing?......

What do you think of the plastic shocks?....


Worth upgrading to the metals?....

I have 3 racer2's with the metal shocks on them..so its no problem..

I just thought I'd try the plastic ones...

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
what part of the camber is changing?...Are the upper links compressing?......

What do you think of the plastic shocks?....


Worth upgrading to the metals?....

I have 3 racer2's with the metal shocks on them..so its no problem..

I just thought I'd try the plastic ones...

The upper links were compressing. I really can't say there is a performance difference between Aluminum and Plastic except for durabilility. All I ever had were plastic and never had the plastic break only the shock shaft. IF there is a difference you can tell me....:D

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
Worth upgrading to the metals?....

I have 3 racer2's with the metal shocks on them..so its no problem..



I don't think you can use the Racer 2 shocks, I think they might be too long....:confused: if not maybe the rears you might be able swap. I'll have to check that out.

[fastharry]

the option number they give is the std upgrade shock for the racer2's......

how do you like the plastic shocks...(I think they are std off the PRO 3)...

[mariog]

I have a set up question - what are you guys setting "droop" at? I am looking at the HPI Website and they have Hara's setup, but they state rebound stop and bump stop - I don't want to mix them up. WHich one refers to droop? Also, what are you guys setting? Thanks!

BTY, getting the parts I smacked up in the mail tomorrow. Can't wait to run it!

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rkmori
The upper links were compressing. I really can't say there is a performance difference between Aluminum and Plastic except for durabilility. All I ever had were plastic and never had the plastic break only the shock shaft. IF there is a difference you can tell me....:D

the upper links were compressing?....I thought I gave that up with my Tc3?..;) (with teh rear toe links..)

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
the option number they give is the std upgrade shock for the racer2's......

how do you like the plastic shocks...(I think they are std off the PRO 3)...

So far no opinions yet, I just this week changed it from the 70 weight that they provide to 50 weight....I'll see if there is any changes in the handling.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by mariog
I have a set up question - what are you guys setting "droop" at? I am looking at the HPI Website and they have Hara's setup, but they state rebound stop and bump stop - I don't want to mix them up. WHich one refers to droop? Also, what are you guys setting? Thanks!

BTY, getting the parts I smacked up in the mail tomorrow. Can't wait to run it!

hey mariog....I shouldbe getting teh engine in mine tommorow..

I'll figure out all teh set up stuff and tell you..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
the upper links were compressing?....I thought I gave that up with my Tc3?..;) (with teh rear toe links..)

I am trying to say the same thing.........R40 want to be like NTC3? (the bad way?)

Fastharry, I still think SERPENT made the best shock for touring cars, I have a set of 705 shocks for my SNRS4 and it really works great, so I think it is worth it to invest the money on the Serpent one..........can't complaint about the adjustable damper design.

Rkmori.......unfortunately, I think I am done for the HTOP due to the mid-west series this week and will miss the 20th race as well....and I think September is the last month they will run any racing at HTOP, so if you need any help, feel free to call, and now, after driving your car 2 weeks ago, I can help adjusting your car more, especially the 2-speed, it was horrible. Also, I have your Paris pipe for you to pick up........call me and come by.

[mariog]

Finally got my replacement parts and changed them out. I found the plastic ball joint on one of the front shocks (part that snaps onto ball) was also broken and doesn't hold the ball. Won't even snap in - it just falls right off because it is deformed from the crash. This is the lower ball joint - not the top one which threads into the rod. Anyway, I am pretty confident this is a universal part. Anyone know what will work - Serpent, Mugen or other HPI? Thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by mariog
Finally got my replacement parts and changed them out. I found the plastic ball joint on one of the front shocks (part that snaps onto ball) was also broken and doesn't hold the ball. Won't even snap in - it just falls right off because it is deformed from the crash. This is the lower ball joint - not the top one which threads into the rod. Anyway, I am pretty confident this is a universal part. Anyone know what will work - Serpent, Mugen or other HPI? Thanks.

Sure....but why others beside HPI, use HPI RS4 parts, just make sure you change BOTH (left and right) and the BALLS itself to make them all even............you don't have to do that if you know for sure the ball cups from the R40 is indeed the same as their old RS4 or others........in that case, you just need to replace the cup.

[mariog]

You got it right, Rook. Bought the same ball cups from the RS4 today and they fit perfect! That's the best part about HPI - cheap parts and in stock.

[mariog]

Hope someone can please help me with a question regarding droop. Using the gauge that came with the R40, I set up the front suspension at 1mm droop and rear at 3mm. I have measured using bottom of chassis as 0 point and measured how down the suspension arms travel BELOW the chassis. I am a bit confused - I had read something contradictory talking about droop measured from bottom of chassis as 0 point to how far above the arm travels. Which is correct, what would you recommend and why? Thanks for your input as I am new to on-road setups.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by mariog
Hope someone can please help me with a question regarding droop. Using the gauge that came with the R40, I set up the front suspension at 1mm droop and rear at 3mm. I have measured using bottom of chassis as 0 point and measured how down the suspension arms travel BELOW the chassis. I am a bit confused - I had read something contradictory talking about droop measured from bottom of chassis as 0 point to how far above the arm travels. Which is correct, what would you recommend and why? Thanks for your input as I am new to on-road setups.


From What I understood droop to be is how far below the chassis the suspension travels.

Hey where did you get your replacement parts???

[mariog]

Had to get them direct from HPI. Said they don't sell direct, but made an exception since spares are not readilly available. But, try towerhobbies.com. They should have them in any day now.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by mariog
Had to get them direct from HPI. Said they don't sell direct, but made an exception since spares are not readilly available. But, try towerhobbies.com. They should have them in any day now.

Maybe I should have tried that...

[X-garage]

I just ordered mine!..YAHOOOOOO!!!

I got to jump ship from NTC3, although that car bring me some trophies...but....it's too boring..seeing a lot of people using it.

[fastharry]

hey..just so you guys know..


Towers got all the main parts in stock..belts,plastic,thrust bearings,etc..

its in limited supply,so act fast..

I ordered all mine last nite...

[KronicRacer]

rookie: have you tried the serpent shocks out yet?

[X-garage]

R40 for $259

http://www.harcohobbies.com/hpi-r40.aspx

[cbrguy]

I got my parts the easy way.. I just bought two kits.:D I figure parts won't really be out for at least another month..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
rookie: have you tried the serpent shocks out yet?

No...not on the R40, but I used them on my SNRS4 and race HPI challenge in Michigan, and I found that is a hugh advantage by not changing OIL and DAMPER............only clicks away, I can change the car from UNDER to OVER.

Besides, the plastic body of the shock does not really have any performance gain (all show only), the structure within the shock are way more important.......in this case, Serpent one are way way better then the HPI one.

They are not cheap (I think all 4s shock can be as high as $60) but I used them to almost all the cars (except my NTC3 cause their shocks are not that bad)........

[mariog]

Tower does not have the pinion / spur gears even in their computer. Anyone know when / where they will be available?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by mariog
Tower does not have the pinion / spur gears even in their computer. Anyone know when / where they will be available?

If you need the NEW optional gears (beside the stock one), you have to order direct from HPI (and pay higher price)

Tower will not stock those untill end of September and early October............besides, HPI just released those optional gears, I doubt there are too many places have those in stock beside HPI.

[X-garage]

DO they have graphite shock towers yet?

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
hey..just so you guys know..


Towers got all the main parts in stock..belts,plastic,thrust bearings,etc..

its in limited supply,so act fast..

I ordered all mine last nite...

Yea....... you and me both I practically ordered 2 of everything, I place my order before I even got the Email notice that they were in stock. I rec. the notices at 1:00 am I place my order like 3 hours before the notices. If the email notices went out all at the same time I got a good jump on it!!! According to the site all my part are shipped........ not back ordered. AWESOME!!!! Too bad not a few day earlier I could have gotten my car into the MIDWEST Series. Oh well maybe next year.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by X-garage
I just ordered mine!..YAHOOOOOO!!!

I got to jump ship from NTC3, although that car bring me some trophies...but....it's too boring..seeing a lot of people using it.

This should be interesting....I guess next years challenge there should be a whole lot of R40's in the Nitro Mod Class.

[X-garage]

Originally posted by Rkmori
This should be interesting....I guess next years challenge there should be a whole lot of R40's in the Nitro Mod Class.

Oh Yeah! If you see a body that looks similar to this....please say hi to X-garage!
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/GARAGE/DODGE_STRATUS_flame/HI/168-6855_IMG.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

Body like that does not belongs to the track........it belongs to me (LOL)

Nice looking body....good job....beside, how much you charge for a body like that...?

[X-garage]

:D
Thanks! I sometime do some bodies and sell them on ebay, but at this moment I'm really busy. Hara won the 2003 NATIONALS with R40, but I won 2003 NATIONALS concorse with my body.
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/show%20bodies/2003roar.jpg

[Rkmori]

Awesome!!!! Paint "X".....Do you do any thing with a Tribal design.........

[X-garage]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Awesome!!!! Paint "X".....Do you do any thing with a Tribal design.........
Like this?
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/GARAGE/porsche_911_flame_green/hi/IMG_5873.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by X-garage
:D
Thanks! I sometime do some bodies and sell them on ebay, but at this moment I'm really busy. Hara won the 2003 NATIONALS with R40, but I won 2003 NATIONALS concorse with my body.
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/show%20bodies/2003roar.jpg

Yeah, you are well deserve that title.........can I ask you a question? When you mask the body especially doing the FLAME cutting.....are you using LIQUID MASK or just simply MESKING TAPE over it and cut...?

I never try the Liquire masking before, but seems like that is the easiest way to do some crazy curve like your scheme above?

Please share some idea......:D

Nice MTX3............retire that one too?

If you have the RCCA magazine, the body scheme I like the most (recently) is the YOKOMO SSG chassis Ad one...white with 1000 differnet blue red yellow colors around............craxy skill required.

And are you going to do the HIP thing from JAPAN.........custom head light with shade and signal color...? It look easy, but I tried several times, all look like crap..........

[X-garage]

I use only liquid mask. You need to apply liquid mask 3 times then it will be easy for you to peel it off.

My friend took that body to race at 2003 Nationas. Now the body and trophy are displayed at my local shop. http://www.tfbraceway.com/photos_tfb_oc_003.html I was thinking about getting MTX3, but I like silver box of R40.:D I wish I were there and see HARA with his R40 in real action.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by X-garage
Like this?
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/GARAGE/porsche_911_flame_green/hi/IMG_5873.jpg

Now thats nice, I would hate to have to put in the holes for the body posts, glow ign., Etc. How much would you get for a body like that.......??

[X-garage]

Rookie Solara,

Yes that Yokomo Body in the magazine is sick! I'm planing to do that in the future. I have been doing that headlight for a couple of bodies now. I haven't got a chance to take picture of those.

Rkmori,

That body was sold on ebay to a guy in UK. I couldn't show the number in public. :D

.....AND UPS TRACKING SAYS THAT R40 WILL BE AT MY HOUSE BY 5:00PM!!! It's going to be a fantastic evening...:D

[mariog]

Just took out my R40 for an hour this afternoon. Got it all dialed in and runs awesome!!! My new RB v12 was getting pretty hot. Stock HSN needle setting are 5 turns out and I had to richen the heck out of it to 7 turns to keep her below 300F (using 20% trinity 12% oil and RB #4 plug). Do you thing going to a cooler #6 plug would help keep temp down? Thanks.

[cbrguy]

Originally posted by mariog
Just took out my R40 for an hour this afternoon. Got it all dialed in and runs awesome!!! My new RB v12 was getting pretty hot. Stock HSN needle setting are 5 turns out and I had to richen the heck out of it to 7 turns to keep her below 300F (using 20% trinity 12% oil and RB #4 plug). Do you thing going to a cooler #6 plug would help keep temp down? Thanks.

Did you check for a air leak... That what it sounds like to me.

[cbrguy]

Originally posted by X-garage
Rookie Solara,

Yes that Yokomo Body in the magazine is sick! I'm planing to do that in the future. I have been doing that headlight for a couple of bodies now. I haven't got a chance to take picture of those.

Rkmori,

That body was sold on ebay to a guy in UK. I couldn't show the number in public. :D

.....AND UPS TRACKING SAYS THAT R40 WILL BE AT MY HOUSE BY 5:00PM!!! It's going to be a fantastic evening...:D

Becareful when building the two speed. I have two kits and I broke the two speed clutch on both of them. Luckly it was only one shoe from each kit. I know 5 other people that have had the same problem. But yes it was a great kit to build after that one problem..

[X-garage]

Does the clutch that easy to brake?

[cbrguy]

Originally posted by X-garage
Does the clutch that easy to brake?

It is the same 2 speed clutch that the Tc3 uses, but it is made out of graphite. If you cross thread the screw it creates too much pressure and breakes the shoe. If you take your time you should be ok. I bought my kits the first day they were out so I didn't have anyone to tell me the little detail about the kit...

[fastharry]

hey..got the car done.......\\came out nice,gonna run it this morning..



hey,has anyone figured out,on tree #73479,where those 2 straps(part #'s 3) go?...


I probably missed something somewhere:rolleyes: ..


Thanks..

[puma1824]

Originally posted by fastharry
hey..got the car done.......\\came out nice,gonna run it this morning..



hey,has anyone figured out,on tree #73479,where those 2 straps(part #'s 3) go?...


I probably missed something somewhere:rolleyes: ..


Thanks..

I couldn't figure out where they go either...

[mariog]

I was looking into my problem further (with my RB V12 engine in my R40 not running cool unless it was tuned to excessivly rich settings) and noticed something. When installing the engine into my R40, I had to rotate the fuel inlet on the carb about 90 deg. I just notice that there are only 2 positions that the black plastic inlet can be set at, about 180 deg apart. If not set exactly at this one of these 2 points, it seems that the holes will not line up to allow fuel into the carb. Is this true, or can the fuel inlet be rotated at any position? Thanks.

[RC_Alan]

Hey Mariog, That RB V12 is a sweet motor... I'll check into the problem/issue you're having at the track today and see if anyone else is going through the same thing... Posted some new pics...



http://community.webshots.com/user/rc_alan

[RC_Alan]

Here's a few pics before I head out the Crystal Park RC speedway...

[RC_Alan]

A few of my favorite racers...

[RC_Alan]

Opps... here's the pic... Loving the R40 the more I drive it!!! The Mugen drivers all want to drive it once just say it's a copy... But we all know the R40 is a better car... :cool:

[mariog]

Thank you very much Allen. I found out that is was the problem. I unscrewed the HS needle valve and aligned the inlet hole with the hsn hole so that the 2 holes align and allow fuel to enter into the carb perfectly. And now I am able to run at 5.5 turns out. Perfect!

After finally getting to bash around today, man is this a sweet car!!! Runs awesome and sticks to the ground with the foams. So what if it is similar to the Mugen or Serpent - remind the guys that it cost you $100 less, option parts are half the price, and since it is an HPI, you bet there will be a ton of hop-ups, redially stocked at a good price!

[fastharry]

I didn't get to try my car at teh track..but I did drive it in my back lot at work,where I test all my cars......

This car is a winner...now I'm not talking about any of teh little issues with the car..I'm just talking about how well it turns in,maintains the "arc".and comes out......

It rolll through corners better than my tc3's.....with NO sign of any push....

the first time on the ground,the centax was perfect,the 2 sp shifted right up the driveway,and the car felt like a dream...

I was just looking for that certain feel..this car has it....

Hopefully,It will feel and transition on the track tues nite....



hey,did you notice the clutch bell has the same hole in it to adjust engagement like the Serpent centax?...

[Saboteur]

Not sure if I should buy the R40 when my LHS has it. The temps here are getting into the low 70s and I'm not sure how early the snow will hit. So far I guess everyone here pretty much likes its out of the box performance. I heard the R40 can be used with side exhaust engines but I wanted to go all out with an MT12(most powerful .12 in the lhs so far) and a THS pipe. Should I wait and get it around spring time? BTW wont be racing but just the sheer looks of the car and always wanting a highly competitive vehicle makes me want to blow my $$$ now.:) Meantime I'll try to get a job at the lhs; need some $$$. Hmmm...also may be able get a discount off the R40 for my Bday or any other time. :D

[mariog]

CHECK YOUR BELT TENSIONER!!! Do the bearings move freely with no resistance? Mine didn't. I had to sand down the two black plastic tapered washers a few thousanths of an inch to give it some extra space because, when fully tightened, the bearings DID NOT move freely. I would highly recommend checking this out if you haven't already.

[mariog]

...and don't you love how HPI posts on the website "new R40 option parts available now . Called them trying to get the 18/21 pinion gears (which hasn't even made it to the Tower website yet) and they know nothing about availability. I reminded them that they falsely advertise the gears as "now available", which significantly can influence a purchasing decision. Also, I told them that they don't even have a customer service, or any email address on their website!! Just venting...:mad:

[Rkmori]

Check your, 5mm allen cups that hold the knuckles in place they start to loosen after a while, Esp. the fronts. I took regular teflon thread tape and wraped it around the threads to thighten them up a little. I will let you guys know how well it holds up.

Also if you do end up taking a hit hard enough that the knuckles pop out of the hub carriers, you will also loose the plastic insert. might want to get a few extras.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by mariog
...and don't you love how HPI posts on the website "new R40 option parts available now . Called them trying to get the 18/21 pinion gears (which hasn't even made it to the Tower website yet) and they know nothing about availability. I reminded them that they falsely advertise the gears as "now available", which significantly can influence a purchasing decision. Also, I told them that they don't even have a customer service, or any email address on their website!! Just venting...:mad:

Welcome to the world of HPI, these problems will soon go away after they have built a enough stock to keep them on the shelfs. As far as spare parts and hop up availibility in time they will be there. I look at my LHSs' and the spare parts and hop ups for HPI are twice that of most of the other mfgs. Give it time it will be there as far as the advertisment "opt are available" they are not send false advertising, They did not say that all Opt. parts are avail......they just don't have what YOU are looking for. REEEELAAAAX......enjoy the car.......isn't that what it is all about??????........ :D

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
hey..got the car done.......\\came out nice,gonna run it this morning..



hey,has anyone figured out,on tree #73479,where those 2 straps(part #'s 3) go?...


I probably missed something somewhere:rolleyes: ..


Thanks..

It probably goes some where to change something that we need to figure out on our own, bec. it was never explained in the build manual. TYPICAL.........it might even be for a upgrade / hop up that will come out next year after we loose the part and need to buy another whole tree of parts for $10.00.......to make use of the upgrade.......

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Welcome to the world of HPI, these problems will soon go away after they have built a enough stock to keep them on the shelfs. As far as spare parts and hop up availibility in time they will be there. I look at my LHSs' and the spare parts and hop ups for HPI are twice that of most of the other mfgs. Give it time it will be there as far as the advertisment "opt are available" they are not send false advertising, They did not say that all Opt. parts are avail......they just don't have what YOU are looking for. REEEELAAAAX......enjoy the car.......isn't that what it is all about??????........ :D

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Welcome to the world of HPI, these problems will soon go away after they have built a enough stock to keep them on the shelfs. As far as spare parts and hop up availibility in time they will be there. I look at my LHSs' and the spare parts and hop ups for HPI are twice that of most of the other mfgs. Give it time it will be there as far as the advertisment "opt are available" they are not send false advertising, They did not say that all Opt. parts are avail......they just don't have what YOU are looking for. REEEELAAAAX......enjoy the car.......isn't that what it is all about??????........ :D

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rkmori
It probably goes some where to change something that we need to figure out on our own, bec. it was never explained in the build manual. TYPICAL.........it might even be for a upgrade / hop up that will come out next year after we loose the part and need to buy another whole tree of parts for $10.00.......to make use of the upgrade.......



I expect problesm with any car..so fit and finish things,parts,hop ups don't bother me(esp since the parts came in,and I was quick enough to order all of them)..


but the manual is not up to par..

NO explanation of the centax...no tuning tips(like all the roll center,ackerman,wheelbase,shock position,etc) for the car...Listen,I know how to do angle the shocks.....

BUT HPI includes the optional suspension pieces..they ought to say a few words about what they do...


also,this cars need a centax dust cover..that should be a std item...

[cbrguy]

The "HPI CVDs" are mad very poorly. I broke two of them this week while racing. One just broke off on a turn didn't hit anything??? I don't know why. I replaced it then I hit a wall not very hard, but it broke the CVD in the same place as the last. They are made out of some sort of cast metal very cheap and they broke right at the axle joint where there is a sharp edge unlike MIP CVDs. I also stripped out the rear camber links now my tires look like cones because I was driving with 5 degrees of neg camber.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
but the manual is not up to par..

NO explanation of the centax...no tuning tips(like all the roll center,ackerman,wheelbase,shock position,etc) for the car...Listen,I know how to do angle the shocks.....

BUT HPI includes the optional suspension pieces..they ought to say a few words about what they do...


also,this cars need a centax dust cover..that should be a std item...

May be HPI want to be like SERPENT.........Serpent doesn't say too much about TIPS, standard setting postion and other helpfull information like NTC3 manuel, the reason SERPENT did that is they expect all the SERPENT owner knows what they are doing, they expect all the Serpent owner are MICHAEL SALVEN........

I saw Rkmiro's R40 manuel and told him just the CENTAX alone has muiltiple area that HPI didn't covered and they should.........but the more I think, the more I understand WHY they didn't tell you at the beginning.....

OPTION PARTS............or TUNNING TIPS on their website.

I garantee they will list them one after one in the future........if they give out everything at the beginning.......who's going to visit their site, and also, they might have nothing to say about the car.

Again....it is all BUSINESS...........

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by cbrguy
The "HPI CVDs" are mad very poorly. I broke two of them this week while racing. One just broke off on a turn didn't hit anything??? I don't know why. I replaced it then I hit a wall not very hard, but it broke the CVD in the same place as the last. They are made out of some sort of cast metal very cheap and they broke right at the axle joint where there is a sharp edge unlike MIP CVDs. I also stripped out the rear camber links now my tires look like cones because I was driving with 5 degrees of neg camber.

Again, there will be MIP upgrade CVD for this car in the future........if HPI made the car bulletproof, whos going to make option for this car.

Remember, HPI might improved from TOY CAR to race machine, but they are still the one that required A LOT of option at the end.

[X-garage]

Don't tell me that TC3 doesn't need all that Hopups! Look at PROs cars how many hopups do they have? ....Hara doesn't use much hopups on his car...Barry Baker doesn't use much hopups on his car....Remember! If you don't hit you won't break!...If you keep banging the wall and say the car is week you need more practice.

[cbrguy]

Originally posted by X-garage
Don't tell me that TC3 doesn't need all that Hopups! Look at PROs cars how many hopups do they have? ....Hara doesn't use much hopups on his car...Barry Baker doesn't use much hopups on his car....Remember! If you don't hit you won't break!...If you keep banging the wall and say the car is week you need more practice.
I have had my TC3 for a year and the only part that I ever broke was the front bumper. I race twice a week. I have had some parts wear out turn buckles etc. , but nothing ever broke.

When my R40 broke it broke when I was turning, without hitting anything. the force of the turn snapped the CVD right at the joint.
I never crashed that kit before I ran that day(it was my brand new parts kit)

The second time it broke I did hit somthing,but it was a light bump into a wall from another driver. I have never seen a CVD break so easily. And you are wrong about Hara. Look at his R40. He changed the chassis,wheels,receiver position,shocks,shock towers etc...

I am not saying the R40 is not a good car, but there are some problems that I have seen from my own cars and from other guys at the track. When everyone breaks the same part there is a problem.

[X-garage]

That's because back when you were driving NTC3 you were slow..and now you drive faster that's why you break more...just kidding

I don't want to bring up NTC3 in R40 forum, but I have been running NTC3 and I know what good and bad and now I feel like there are more bad things than good that's why I switch.


I have not finished my R40 yet. I will try to see if that should be called PROBLEM or not.

[KronicRacer]

lookie what i found

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=r40&categories_id=&manufacturers_id=

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
lookie what i found

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=r40&categories_id=&manufacturers_id=

What was it all I got was "Page could not be displayed".

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by X-garage
Hara doesn't use much hopups on his car...Barry Baker doesn't use much hopups on his car....Remember! If you don't hit you won't break!...If you keep banging the wall and say the car is week you need more practice.

I never said NTC3 doesn't need hop ups.....but HARA definitely use HOP UPS even before the hop ups are availble in the market (4mm super chassis, front 1-way, rear adjustable ball diff (you are get that from their Japanese site), front and rear carbon fiber shock towers and AAA batteries pack...)

Besides, TEAM DRIVER are not allow to use anything beside their own mfr products, and they are encouraged to use as much STOCK part as possible in order to tell the world that their STOCK car is capable to race at the professional level, but of course, 1 or 2 pieces of HOP UPS are easy to find on each team driver's car.

What I was saying is.....HPI does leave a lot of room for hop ups, and you CANNOT say that is not true because it is true.....look at the SAVAGE, 4 months after the release, and there is a SS version already........and I was saying HPI does not

If you don't want to use HOP UPS on your R40, no one can make you to......and like you say, don't clip the board......but who can actually do that? Not even HARA can do that....and even HARA can do that in that 1 hour main, do you think he will run a 100% stock R40 and race against other team driver?

No one can race wtihout any accident.........so avoid the board is what you HOPE, but not what it will happen most of the time....and thats what HOP UPS suppose to do....to improve the chance of avoiding DNF.

R40 is definitely a better car then RS4, but you want to tell me it is better then Serpent, AE, Mugen or even Kyosho.........I think the most I can say is.....R40 is getting closer, not better...just better then the RS4.

Please understand my point, I am planning to get the R40 myself so I can have a belt driven car again for SMALL TRACK, but I still think (actually, I know) the SHAFT drive is still the car to go for a large track (like Hamilton) and what I am trying to say is.......HPI are leaving those questionable areas for their future products - HOP UPS so they can have more rooms for improvement in the future.....

Serpent did that since the Impulse SS, then PRO, and now 705.....the whole concept is still the same, but the 705 is besicly the fully loaded (options) of Impulse Street Spec.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by cbrguy
The "HPI CVDs" are mad very poorly. I broke two of them this week while racing. One just broke off on a turn didn't hit anything??? I don't know why. I replaced it then I hit a wall not very hard, but it broke the CVD in the same place as the last. They are made out of some sort of cast metal very cheap and they broke right at the axle joint where there is a sharp edge unlike MIP CVDs. I also stripped out the rear camber links now my tires look like cones because I was driving with 5 degrees of neg camber.


Uh,not for nothing...first time out with my car tonite...got tangledup with another driver,he hit me in the wheel..and I snapped the axle also.....

I had a spare,so it was no big deal......BUt I can appreciate the aluminum CVD's on my tc3..at least they bend,not snap..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
What was it all I got was "Page could not be displayed".

Their site is down..........try tomorrow.

It was a search link at the HK web shop for R40......they might sell the R40 for $200 US (I was just guessing....I doubt it.)

KronicRacer........what was that about?

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by cbrguy
I also stripped out the rear camber links now my tires look like cones because I was driving with 5 degrees of neg camber.

Mine did too.....That is why I put E clips, in the empty thread portions of the turn buckles.......Not a problem any more. I would gather that the extra spacers tht were not used during the build would work too. But I still need to find somebody with a tire lathe to true up my cone shaped tires....hmmmmmm.......Hey Rookie are your coming to HTOP any time soon.....?

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Their site is down..........try tomorrow.

It was a search link at the HK web shop for R40......they might sell the R40 for $200 US (I was just guessing....I doubt it.)

KronicRacer........what was that about?

Is that possible????.......I thought HK is the Tech. capitol of the world.

[X-garage]

Rookie Solara

I'm not trying to say that R40 is better than other brands like you said that it is not even close to AE, Mugen...blah..blah.

I just don't agree with "Other brands don't need hop up, but HPI does" that is not true.

[mariog]

...but don't forget that the Serpent / Mugen 1/10 are both $350 and I paid $269 for my R40. For the price, I think it's a good value.

[X-garage]

Originally posted by mariog
...but don't forget that the Serpent / Mugen 1/10 are both $350 and I paid $269 for my R40. For the price, I think it's a good value.

That's a really good point.

Anyway, I really want that graphite shock towers?:D

[Rookie Solara]

X-garage...........it is all good, thats what the forum need, share OPINIONS and EXPERIENCES...........it is all good.

But Mariog......you have to look at the different between R40 and 705(mtx3 and such), they are FULLY LOADED (for $350) with some more advance (better quality in general) options then R40.....$269 R40 is a bone stock chassis which you can run around at the parking lot or some small track races..........

Please add the cost of the front 1-way, upgrade chassis, upgrade batteries pack, front and rear shock towers, upgrade shocks, upgrade CVDs (that match HARA setup, or at least close enough to 705 or MTX3)...................do you think it is any cheaper then a 705? $350 705 or mugen both included all those options in the box with newer centax system....R40 still use a 10 years old design centax.

The Math is all the same...........when R40 came out @ Towers, it was listed $319.99............I think that was a joke, untill the most recent price (around $260) , that is more acceptable........but will all the necessary options (I think those are necessary if you want to be on A-main)............$100 -$150 of just option is not hard to believe........it is just matter of time and money.

The advantage of HPI over others like Serpent/Mugen.......cheaper parts and availbiltiy everywhere, that is one of the reason I would give R40 a shot.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Mine did too.....That is why I put E clips, in the empty thread portions of the turn buckles.......Not a problem any more. I would gather that the extra spacers tht were not used during the build would work too. But I still need to find somebody with a tire lathe to true up my cone shaped tires....hmmmmmm.......Hey Rookie are your coming to HTOP any time soon.....?

Not racing at HTOP anymore this year I think.......but I will show up on the 20th morning to help you setup the car........I will have my Hudy tire truer to true your tires.

If your tires are cone.........you don't have enough camber.......try -2.5 rear and at least -1.5 front.

Make sure you bring the extra clutch shoe so I can do the Serpent centax modification on your HPI clutch, your R40 centax will launch faster that way.

Don't forget to grease your thrust bearing............

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Their site is down..........try tomorrow.

It was a search link at the HK web shop for R40......they might sell the R40 for $200 US (I was just guessing....I doubt it.)

KronicRacer........what was that about?

the HPI lightweight hollow shafts for the front and rear. one was $12 and the other was $10... their site is down at the moment.

[cbrguy]

Did you see the CVDs that were one that site. It looks like they changed the way that there are built. The edges were the dogbone meets that axle do not look as sharp. Just like the 2 speed clutch. They one that I seen was teflon instead on graphite. At least the are fixing the problems with the car.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If your tires are cone.........you don't have enough camber.......try -2.5 rear and at least -1.5 front.


The Coned tire is because I I slid into a board and knocked the camber way out.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Not racing at HTOP anymore this year I think.......but I will show up on the 20th morning to help you setup the car........I will have my Hudy tire truer to true your tires.

If your tires are cone.........you don't have enough camber.......try -2.5 rear and at least -1.5 front.

Make sure you bring the extra clutch shoe so I can do the Serpent centax modification on your HPI clutch, your R40 centax will launch faster that way.

Don't forget to grease your thrust bearing............

I need to see if Albert has the shoes. I did not get them yet. As far as greasing the thrust bearings. NP I have been doing that at the end of every race day. I also picked up 2 more spare bearing sets Just in case. I got 2 of every thing that I'm likely to break. As far as the camber adjustment they are at about -2.5 deg. but all it takes is a hit to the side either a board or another car and the turn buckle will colaps. I solved the problem with the E clips the camber does not come out of adjustment any more.

[fastharry]

I know HPI is aware of the problem.....just needs sone better plastic or tighter tolerance...

I fixed mine by dropping 1 drop of some med super glue in,and taking a toothpick,swirling it around....wait for it to dry,then,when I put the cups on,I also used a strip of screw saver..its a foil you buy in the hardware section in the glue dept usualy..its used for wood furniture in case the screws strip..you just cut a strip off,and put in in the hole..those cups are tight now,and they can still be adjusted..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
The Coned tire is because I I slid into a board and knocked the camber way out.

Wow............I knew R40 does take advantage from 705/MTX3 and V1RR.......but I didnt know they took advantage from NTC3 rear axle as well (NTC3 does the same thing at the rear when you clipped a board hard enough, one time I ended up +3 positive)

Yeah, adding spacer or E-clips should help............also, my source from HK said HPI will release the Alum light weight pillow balls for the R40.......

BUY it at your own risk..............

I cannot say out loud about that, but on the last weekend MID-WEST Series #5, my buddies (4 Serpent 705s equipped with all light-weight items including the alum pillow balls)......all of them got the pillow balls SNAPPED at one point......so unless you can garantee yourself NOT touching any board in a 30 minutes main, you should keep the stock HEAVIER pillow balls so you can finish the race.......(stock metal pillow balls are 3 times heavier then alum. pillow balls, but a hair lighter then Titanium balls).

Hpi plastic is up to standard (compare to AEs), they are not going to make it stronger.............I knew Serpent didn't, their plastic are weaker and weaker...........compare to the OLD school like EXCEL, their plastic now a day is like glass.

[X-garage]

It's ready!
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/show%20bodies/R402.jpg

[sasonrally]

X-garage.. what engine and tuned pipe is that. it look sweet.

I am debating on getting the OS 12TR or the MT12
and the RD logics pipe.

[X-garage]

The engine is STS NS3 40000rpm 1.5 hp only $140! The pipe set is Nova Mega TP04.

[X-garage]

http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/show%20bodies/R403.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by sasonrally
I am debating on getting the OS 12TR or the MT12
and the RD logics pipe.

If extra $20 is not a problem............MT-12, I've seen the same car running the OS and MT-12, and usually MT-12 are a hair faster on both low-end and high end.

But ppl said OS TR engine is almost like "Engine tunning for dummy"........you will never get any trouble for their needle setting.

So I think they both have their good points.

[sasonrally]

Thanks for the replies. I will make my decision then. I will let you all know how it works out.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If extra $20 is not a problem............MT-12, I've seen the same car running the OS and MT-12, and usually MT-12 are a hair faster on both low-end and high end.

But ppl said OS TR engine is almost like "Engine tunning for dummy"........you will never get any trouble for their needle setting.

So I think they both have their good points.

Yes that is one thing nice about, OS I don't have to mess with the needle setting unless there is a drastic change in weather from 1 race day to another. It is very consistant. As far as speed, The Track at HTOP, is too short any ways. I like to hang back at the starting line and avoid the first turn pile up. You know as well as I do Rookie..... that the track is NOT a Fast Track at all, skill is most important, than speed. At HTOP speed means you hit the boards harder, but in the straight (for how short it is) power has a small edge.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by X-garage
The engine is STS NS3 40000rpm 1.5 hp only $140! The pipe set is Nova Mega TP04.

novarossi ns3...... where did you get it for 140.00!!!!!?????

[carlos_rico]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
novarossi ns3...... where did you get it for 140.00!!!!!?????


hey I think that this engine is a calandra racing concepts engin not a navarossi. that novarossi is in 330 more or less

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
hey I think that this engine is a calandra racing concepts engin not a navarossi. that novarossi is in 330 more or less

Hey Carlos....did you ever get your R40???

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
novarossi ns3...... where did you get it for 140.00!!!!!?????

Ah, that is NOT by Nova Rossi, it is made in Taiwan STS NS3 and distributed by CRC........it is similar to Nova Rossi, I personally didn't have one, but heard quite a lot of things about that engine, espeically when it hits 2 gallons of fuel....but for $140, its worth a try.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
hey I think that this engine is a calandra racing concepts engin not a navarossi. that novarossi is in 330 more or less

Carlos, you are correct, that engine is from Taiwan and distributed by CRC (not made by CRC) and is called NS3....definitely a low-budget engine for average user.

I am not sure you guys are confused with the new Nova Rossi NS12 that Atsushi Hara used on the National, these 2 engine are totally different.......I mean, HUGH different.

For engine choice, definitely go for the NAME (like NR, NM, OS, RB...etc), unless you are sponcered.

The new NS12 from N.R. is about $210 US oversea (aka HK) and at least $250 and above here (USA)....check out Trinity website for their way overpriced NS12.

[X-garage]

I have both NOVAROSSI NS12 and STS NS12. All I can say is both engines run at the same speed...STS give me better low end power than NOVAROSSI NS12. People say that STS engine this and that, but I think they might not have much experience with tuning engine that's why they can not operate it right.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by X-garage
I have both NOVAROSSI NS12 and STS NS12. All I can say is both engines run at the same speed...STS give me better low end power than NOVAROSSI NS12. People say that STS engine this and that, but I think they might not have much experience with tuning engine that's why they can not operate it right.

Again, for $140, that can compare to big guns like Nova Rossi, it is definitely worth it.

Where can we get that engine for $140? I need a ROAR legal engine anyway

[X-garage]

I got that STS engine from my friend for $130, but you can find one on ebay about $140 just keep your eyes on ebay.

I found this, but it's MT12 replica.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3145486584&category=34062

[spenzalii]

www.teamcrc.com

That should be the Calandra Racing site. You may be able to order direct from them. I plan on getting a R40 (one day!) and will either install a STS, Sirio .12 or OS TRT. I haven't got that far to decide yet...

[X-garage]

Here is a story about my NOVAROSSI RS12. The piston rod broken because I was running that engine really hot. I was trying to lean as much as possible to get the best out off it, but I was stupid that keep trying to run like that until the rod broken off.

All I can say is any engine need a good maintaince. If you try something out of the bible you will break it! It doesn't matter what engine you're running. Cheap engine is my way to go for this time frame. I just want to pay less and fix cheap...STS is in for me right now.:D

[nad138]

ok guys...took the plunge...just got me an R40. For $220, I just can't let that go.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by nad138
ok guys...took the plunge...just got me an R40. For $220, I just can't let that go.

Dude....please share that with us.........$220? That is so cheap....where?

[nad138]

Got it from a guy working in a hobbyshop. He had 2 kits and I guess he plans on making the other one as a parts kit but decided to just sell it. I'm very sorry to have lead anyone to believe I got it from a hobbyshop :(

[mariog]

Just wanted to say fairwell to the R40 forum guys and thanks for your help. On road just isn't for me - I'm sticking with my buggy. If you know anyone looking for a great deal on my R40, please tell them to look here. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3145974062)

[RC_Alan]

Mariog, I think you're giving up way to early on the 1/10 scale on road nitro hobby... You can have the best of both worlds and just race both. I do understand that onroad racing is a way different monster then off road/buggy racing. Keep you R40 for awhile longer... You might get the bug for it again... Good luck... You know I'm switching back and forth between my R40 and my NTC3 with the TRX2.5 motor... I was at Crystal Park RC raceway in SoCal and even Barry Baker like the power of the motor. He ran it a couple times around the track with my Euro truck body on it and was impressed.. except for the carb/tuning... I've since set it up for my new Lola body and corrected my carb issue's. Still love my R40 though and have gotten the front oneway and the Green optional spur/pinion gears today... I'll check back in when I've gotten a chance to see how much more top speed these hop up gears give me... :cool:



http://community.webshots.com/user/rc_alan

[fastharry]

give a comparison between the two cars driving wise..

I'm having a hard time deciding which car drives better..(I have 2 tc3's)....the r40 seems easier to drive.....turns a little bit better.

but the tc3 sure does have that snap down the straight..




Also..have any of you guys seen the new HPI RE motor run?..


RC CAR gave it a GREAT rating..saying it had blistering top speed..with great low end....(yes I know,its the same as an STS engine,haven;'t sen that run either)..

[X-garage]

I just gave R40 a first winning last weekend. I took 2nd place and the car was amazing right from the box. Took me 2 qualifies to get the car running at full speed. I had a problem with my centax cultch, because my old car is NTC3 which has an out dated shoe type, so I never get to learn how to tune the centax. After 2 qualify I worked the way up to 3rd position. Then I finished 2nd beat all the folks that still using NTC3 and MTX3 behind. I have to give up to the 1st place, because he was running a monster JB modify motor...can get my STS stock to that speed.:D

Anyway I gave the car 9 out of 10. Only one thing I need from this car is to be a little lighter...anything else is perfect. This car is much better than any other cars on the market STOCK!...There is a team factory guys here tested and ran the car and all says that HPI did a fantastic job on this one!

I'm so happy with R40...and my NTC3 will be on sale soon...bye!:D

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Mariog, I think you're giving up way to early on the 1/10 scale on road nitro hobby... You can have the best of both worlds and just race both.
http://community.webshots.com/user/rc_alan

Too late now...... it's on Ebay.......I don't think you can retract a listing after sombody bid on it.......Maridog if it dosent sell, Hang on to it.......Walk away from it for a little while then go back and try again, but don't give up......:D

[X-garage]

I totally understand RC_ALAN. I use to try to get to run offroad and it took me only one weekend to quit from it as well. I hate an unpredictable of the offroad, but I love TOURING!

Oh! one more thing from the last weekend race with my R40...nothing break! I would also give HPI foam tires perfect 10! They are really strong construction and best grip on the market right now. I hate the disc wheels and they don't make a lot different on the speed. :D

[nitro13]

hi i am thinking of buying a r40 as my first kit(by the way my 3 nitro car)i am going to start racing because there is a track 30 min from my house.would anyone recamend this as my first kit.
there already two at my track one of them let me drive it and was amaized how it handled and its speed and for only $300 i decidied i might get one so i am wondering it this is a good car as a first kit :D i know i will need a starterbox,engine radio equipment,tune pipe,manifold,flat battery pack and charger.
:cool:

[X-garage]

Anything is good if you start!:D

I think it's good to start with this Kit, because HPI parts support is the best in this world.:eek:

[nitro13]

i have decided to get a r40 now all i have to do is wait for a cuple weeks to get a few pay checks so i can buy one.i should have it soon tho and i have a few more questions which parts will i need that will break the most,how fast will it go,how long will foam tires last,where can i buy foam tires in bulk.:D

[sasonrally]

If this is your FIRST time building a KIT then I will tell you that the difficulty in building this one is on the harder side. So if you do decide to buy it, take your time do not rush it. It is not like you are going through one bag of parts and then finishing it. This one you have to dig into different bags as you are building. And right now the manual has some gray areas taht still need to be corrected.

Also you say it is cheap. Sure the KIT is cheap but consider if you do not have the following items, you can end up spending $700 easy.

Starter Box
Starter Box batteries + charger.
Flat receiver Pack + charger
Engine
Tuned Pipe
Radio + servos
Lexan Body(ies)
Extra belts cause one stone can wreek havoc on your drive train.

Having some of these items already will help reduce the overall cost of the finished KIT.

How about tools to tune it. HUDY board, Digital Calipers, etc. Depending on how serious a racer you will be.

You will definitely have a good time on the track once it is all done.

Oh and try e-bay for bulk foam tires.

[nitro13]

i will be able to spent like $800.i already have all the equepment to tune them and build them.the place i will be racing is not realy competative but there race serious just about all of them run serpents and only 2 r40s but the r40s do very well in the races so i have decided to get me one.i have looked at all the the pages on the hpi website and the looked like i will be able build it i always take my pations when i and disasimbling my cars i have now and reasimbline will race it in 3 or 4 times aleast in big compitions this will be my 3rd nitro so i
know all about tuning the engine,gearing, and supension.when i ment cheap it was becaus it was a pro car i new it didnt come with all of the stuff like engine,tune pipe,starter box,and all that other stuff.

thanks for your reply:D

[RC_Alan]

Fastharry, to me, hands down the R40 is a much easier car to get in to and drive. It's alittle heavy for my liking though... The prices for parts are great... I mean the front fulkhead/knuckle set was all of $8.00 and the spur gears were $2.40... The NTC3 is much easier to build, but it's just way to fragile for my liking... Nice car and also a great first time racer car though.. The R40 is just alittle better all the way around... It's easy to drive out the box, and can be dialed in to complete against any 1/10 200mm scale sedan on the market right now and win!!! Remember, this is not a street basher,but an onroad 1/10 scale sedan that was build to be raced. My project/play car is my NTC3 with the TRX2.5... If something breaks... I've got parts all over the place for it... And that motor... for all of $110.00 is a monster... Nitro 13, remember you can never have enough spare parts... Buy them and if possible, buy two of each.. Good luck...

[fastharry]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Fastharry, to me, hands down the R40 is a much easier car to get in to and drive. It's alittle heavy for my liking though... The prices for parts are great... I mean the front fulkhead/knuckle set was all of $8.00 and the spur gears were $2.40... The NTC3 is much easier to build, but it's just way to fragile for my liking... Nice car and also a great first time racer car though.. The R40 is just alittle better all the way around... It's easy to drive out the box, and can be dialed in to complete against any 1/10 200mm scale sedan on the market right now and win!!! Remember, this is not a street basher,but an onroad 1/10 scale sedan that was build to be raced. My project/play car is my NTC3 with the TRX2.5... If something breaks... I've got parts all over the place for it... And that motor... for all of $110.00 is a monster... Nitro 13, remember you can never have enough spare parts... Buy them and if possible, buy two of each.. Good luck...


hi alan..those were my initial thoughts also..but I didn't know if it was because the r40 is a great car..or Its just easier to drive a belt car....

it seems the r40 turns anywhere..no more hunting for the right apex to power the car through...

but the real test will be which car I'm fastest with..... won't know that till I do a fullnight of racing with all my buds there...

but I do like the way the car feels...

[Rkmori]

FYI......I spoke t0o Leroy from HPI at the Hobby Show he said that the optional gears are now available as well as a bunch more opt. parts.....I also told him to check out this forum for lots o' feedback........Maybe we'll see him post here........??????Hmmmm????......MAYBE????.......Y a right.......If anybody has met Frank checkout his web site there is a link on HPI website......

[Digit]

. (FROM RC ALAN).. I was at Crystal Park RC raceway in SoCal and even Barry Baker like the power of the motor. He ran it a couple times around the track with my Euro truck body on it and was impressed.. except for the carb/tuning... I've since set it up for my new Lola body and corrected my carb issue's. Still love my R40 though and have gotten the front oneway and the Green optional spur/pinion gears today... I'll check back in when I've gotten a chance to see how much more top speed these hop up gears give me... :cool:





Barry Baker runs at crystal park??? the NTC3 guy right? i go there every now and then, but i never knew he goes there :confused: anyways, does anyone know what the "slot" on the front top hingepin holder is for? (the plastic piece that goes over the radio tray and into the bulkheads) it looks like it is for a plate of some sort that replaces the plastic cover... also, i am running the NovaMega SX-12 5-pt turbo MS,( i had to list all that, cuz it is so cool :D ) and i was wondering if anyone else has had any problems of the carb rubbing against the fuel tank at full throttle.

Than><, Devin

[Rkmori]

[i] i was wondering if anyone else has had any problems of the carb rubbing against the fuel tank at full throttle.

Than><, Devin [/B]

You are supose to rotate the carb. about 45 deg.......

[RC_Alan]

I had the same problem with my Rossi Pixy... Yes you can rotate the carb arm, but in my case, I had to dremel/modify things alittle to get everything to work. The carb arm was running into my fuel tubing and was cutting it... Strange but true... As for Barry baker, he drives at Cystal park RC raceway every once in awhile... If you go to the Team Associated's web site, you'll see the set up sheet for that track done by Barry Baker... I didn't know that it was him and he came over to give me a hand with the carb settings. I told him I could handle it... Then I look up from car and said, are you Barry Baker??? He said yes and I said, Man.. Sorry about that... Mood was not that good at the moment... Carb problems.. lol He gave me a hand in tuning it, gave me few tips and even ran the car around the track a few time.. I had the Euro Truck body on the NTC3... I must say.. Mr. Baker and everyone with him were great. They're racers like all of use here trying to enjoy the hobby and trying to help out someone when they can...

PS... The clutch was slipping and the idle was off because of it... New clutch shoes and problem solved...

[fastharry]

the clutch was slipping on the R40?..

[Digit]

thanks rcALAN, i had to resort to dremeling a bit off too, because i rotated the carb to the max, where the idle screw place ends up hitting the case.
My bearings on the tensioniser werent rotating because the black things are too much, i made 'em a bit thinner and they work now, i would assume this goes for a lot of you R40 owners out there too!!!.............also, i was wondering, do i HAVE to use that special Moly grease on the thrust bearing? or can i use some other normal high temp grease?

[KronicRacer]

i had the same problem putting in my 03 fr12 with boost bottle....i put a sirio in it instead and threw the fantom in my ntc3. even the sirio is a bit snug for it, but i didnt have to dremmel it.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by Digit
thanks rcALAN, i had to resort to dremeling a bit off too, because i rotated the carb to the max, where the idle screw place ends up hitting the case.
My bearings on the tensioniser werent rotating because the black things are too much, i made 'em a bit thinner and they work now, i would assume this goes for a lot of you R40 owners out there too!!!.............also, i was wondering, do i HAVE to use that special Moly grease on the thrust bearing? or can i use some other normal high temp grease?

My fix:
I took 2 extra shims (silver ones - didn't try the copper because I only had one of those extra) used for adjusting the centax clutch clearance and placed them between the plastic retainer and the bearing and wouldn't you know, problem fixed! Car rolls free and no belt tensioner bearing binding!

[Digit]

thanks puma,--------from before:do i HAVE to use that special Moly grease on the thrust bearing? or can i use some other normal high temp grease?

[nad138]

Guys, just came back on driving on-road and have a question about starter boxes. What are you currently using for your R40? I have the AE one but it's configured for my RC10GT and don't want to fuss going back and forth converting it to both. Thanks.

[X-garage]

Just line up the flywheel and starter wheel and...crank it up! I was using my starter box that I set up for my NTC3.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Digit
thanks puma,--------from before:do i HAVE to use that special Moly grease on the thrust bearing? or can i use some other normal high temp grease?

I would use the Moly grease if you have it. Moly is a very good lubricant and should not break down under high load and temp.

[RC_Alan]

Fastharry, it was the my NTC3 with the TRX2.5. That motor was only meant to be in Traxxas products.. Had to do some mods. for it to fit. The clutch nut was an issue as were the clutch shoes... I was using the MIP clutch shoes for the NTC3 but as I found out, the clutch was slipping. I had to use the Traxxas clutch nut as it's the only one that will fit the drive shaft. The problem is that clutch nut was not design to use the NTC3's cluch shoes... and the MIP's were crap. I'm using the Traxxas cluth nut turn around backwards with the lip of the nut holding the clutch springs inplace.... Strange, yes, but it works. The car never ran better. As for my R40, that Rossi Pixy motor is just a hard fit... That carb is huge... And I do mean HUGE for .12 motor... Having to do some minor cutting and sanding on the roll bar and the fuel tank to get it all to fit. Other then that, It's all good. You know with anything new, there will always be some growing pains... That's whats make that hobby so much fun. :cool:

[fastharry]

thanks alan..what did barry think of the R40..did you let him try it.

Also.do you think the R40 stays with the tc3 down tnbe staright..or carrys the same kind of cornering speed as teh tc3..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
thanks alan..what did barry think of the R40..did you let him try it.

Also.do you think the R40 stays with the tc3 down tnbe staright..or carrys the same kind of cornering speed as teh tc3..

Well, how about you....? I would like to hear from you cause you and I both raced with the NTC3 for a while...........I don't think R40 is any faster then NTC3 on the straight....I would like to know about ENTERING the corner and EXITING the corner.........that is the different between shaft and belt, and I felt the shaft have the advantage of POWERING on both cases....

But how about R40, can R40 give you a feeling like the NTC3 at the corner.....? Lets share.....

[Light003]

Has anyone had problems with the way the R40 rolls; the NTC3 rolls so much smoother. I put lube on all the bearings and took apart f/r diffes. Rolls ok. Even the RS4 ss rolls smoother.

[puma1824]

Take the side belt off...then see how it rolls.

If it rolls good then check the bearings on the side belt tensioner.

-Puma

[X-garage]

Check the brake too! Mine was a little to much shoe glue then after clear some of that off the car just flies!

[puma1824]

I am coning my right rear tire and not sure why. Everything is set to stock settings. The other three tires wear equal.

Any hints?

Thanks,
Puma

[Downforce]

Originally posted by puma1824
I am coning my right rear tire and not sure why. Everything is set to stock settings. The other three tires wear equal.

Any hints?

Thanks,
Puma
Just adjust the camber in that corner till it quits.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by puma1824
I am coning my right rear tire and not sure why. Everything is set to stock settings. The other three tires wear equal.

Any hints?

Thanks,
Puma

Camber.........now, is that tire coning INWARD (toward the chassis) or coning OUTWARD (toward outside)?

[Light003]

It's not the drive belt and not the brake. It seems to be the diffs
I am on the brake linkage step.I would like to know it this is normal.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by puma1824
I am coning my right rear tire and not sure why. Everything is set to stock settings. The other three tires wear equal.

Any hints?

Thanks,
Puma

Puma..make sure,if you were racing the car,that the rear upper camber link did not compress...if it did,let me know,I have the fix for that..

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Light003
It's not the drive belt and not the brake. It seems to be the diffs
I am on the brake linkage step.I would like to know it this is normal.

during my build I found that the Rear diff. was real tight and did not move smoothly (see my earlier posts), I took the rear diff apart a few times to see what was binding but could not find any thing wrong. So i decided to just run it to see if it wears in a little, after a few laps around the track all seem to be fine.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
Puma..make sure,if you were racing the car,that the rear upper camber link did not compress...if it did,let me know,I have the fix for that..

what is your fix for the camber link??

[sasonrally]

Anybody konws if the pilot Nut is universal, cause I broke mine while assembling the clutch on my engine. I feel stipid and now I need to go to the lhs and see if they have something that will work..

Part # 87092

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by sasonrally
Anybody konws if the pilot Nut is universal, cause I broke mine while assembling the clutch on my engine. I feel stipid and now I need to go to the lhs and see if they have something that will work..

Part # 87092

Tower has it IN STOCK for about $4.00.

[mariog]

Yes it is universal. I did the same thing and used the Mugen MTX-3 clutch nut.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by fastharry
I know HPI is aware of the problem.....just needs sone better plastic or tighter tolerance...

I fixed mine by dropping 1 drop of some med super glue in,and taking a toothpick,swirling it around....wait for it to dry,then,when I put the cups on,I also used a strip of screw saver..its a foil you buy in the hardware section in the glue dept usualy..its used for wood furniture in case the screws strip..you just cut a strip off,and put in in the hole..those cups are tight now,and they can still be adjusted..


heres the answer I posted last week..I tried it tues nite..

It worked great...

In fact,the whole car(except for that now fixed link) has helds its settings AND tweak for over half a gallon of fuel..

[Saboteur]

I only heard of one person claiming the R40 he has weighs about 15grams more than the Serpent 705. I know the serpent to be a bit heavy yet sturdy however I just dont see the R40 being heavier than it. Could it probably be the equipment used on board or something? This person now has me thinking about the NTC3, that is if I can get my LHS to order it. What are your (the pro's) opinions? :confused:

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Saboteur
I only heard of one person claiming the R40 he has weighs about 15grams more than the Serpent 705. I know the serpent to be a bit heavy yet sturdy however I just dont see the R40 being heavier than it. Could it probably be the equipment used on board or something? This person now has me thinking about the NTC3, that is if I can get my LHS to order it. What are your (the pro's) opinions? :confused:


My freinds lightened Impulse weighed in at 3.77 pounds(I used the deli scale next door to my work)...My stock,with RB, R40 came in at 3.87 pounds..My tc3(with the same RB motor) came in at 3.45 pounds...

[Saboteur]

Interesting Info Fastharry. So I take it the NTC3 is quite a light vehicle, well since it also has a 2.6mm chassis while the other rides have a 3mm...so I can see why. What's your favorite ride to race with? Its good the NTC3 has the shaft driven "advantage" for bashing around but I do like the options on the R40, especially the centax clutch.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Camber.........now, is that tire coning INWARD (toward the chassis) or coning OUTWARD (toward outside)?

Coning inward toward the inside. When measuring the camber should I compress the shocks first or lift car up and use only the car's weight to compress the shocks? BTW camber on both sides are the same...using the lift the car and let the weight of the car determine spring compression.

Thanks,
Puma

[cbrguy]

Originally posted by Rkmori
during my build I found that the Rear diff. was real tight and did not move smoothly (see my earlier posts), I took the rear diff apart a few times to see what was binding but could not find any thing wrong. So i decided to just run it to see if it wears in a little, after a few laps around the track all seem to be fine.

Check the inside of you rims to see if there is a track worn in them. I had the smae problem with my car. The buttome of the pivot suspension was rubbing on the rim.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by puma1824
Coning inward toward the inside. When measuring the camber should I compress the shocks first or lift car up and use only the car's weight to compress the shocks? BTW camber on both sides are the same...using the lift the car and let the weight of the car determine spring compression.

Thanks,
Puma


setting camber and ride height should be done with the car on the ground,...Press the nose or tail a few times to settle the shocks,and make your measurements...

I do ride hgt first.....Put a groove in each shock adjuster...When setting RH,turn each shock out an equal amount from the top....After that,I put the car on a tweak station.....The tweak should be spot on,at worst,a half turn away...more than that,I'd check the springs(Of course,this assumes your starting with a properly designed car....My racer2's were NEVER tweaked right the first time..the Tc3 and r40 is)..

then I put the car on the ground,and set the camber and all(again,after bottoming out the car,)..recheck your ride hgt also..

Thats it..

if your running foams,depending what type of race your gonna run,and the lenght of the main,and the wear of the tires,you have to learn what ride hgt you want to start with..along with truieng the tires to the proper starting diameter..

[fastharry]

has anyone tried the HPI RE engine yet?.......

[puma1824]

Originally posted by fastharry
setting camber and ride height should be done with the car on the ground,...Press the nose or tail a few times to settle the shocks,and make your measurements...



THANKS :) I've been measuring pretty much unloaded...lift car then just drop with car weight. Hopefully this does it.

Has anyone made a Titanium screw kit for this yet? OR know where to get Ti screws? I contacted Hardcore Racing but they only carry flat and socket head, no button head.


-Puma

[X-garage]

Do you want to lighten up your R40?

Get these! made by KAWAHARA!
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/images/products/kh-kh-303.jpg
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/images/products/kh-kh-304.jpg

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=r40&categories_id=&manufacturers_id=

[RC_Alan]

Hey Guys... Major tech problem... I have never like the Centex clutch.. Guess it's old school, but I just like using the shoe type clutches... My problem is that while I'm running my car, the Centex spring get's tighter... It sounds strange, I know... The clutch was set up as per the manuel and I thought it was a tuning problem with my Rossi pixy's carb... So I switch to my MT-12 and I know motor is perfect. While running a few laps with that motor, my car would slow and the motor's rpm would rev higher and higher. Brought the car in and check the clutch and what you know, the adjustment screw was five turns in from where is should have been as the per the manuel. I re-adjusted the spring/set screw and gave it another shot... 2 laps later the same problem... Brought the car in the check the clutch and the same thing happen... Anyone with the same problem??? No one else at the track running centex clutches have seen that except for one guy and he said it was a defect with his and just returned it for a new one... Car was a Mugen MTX-3... I really hope HPI would come out with a Shoe type clutch as well. I'm not out trying to win the ROAR national's... Just want to race every now and then at the local track and have some fun while doing it. Any input or info would be greatly appreciated. And yes, the shims were all in the correct places also. I tried to call HPI and they're closed ever other Friday... Go figure.. Thanks

RC_Alan

[boom]

It happens to any centax if the clutch bell is given a chance to touch or rub the adjuster nut. This usually happens when a clutch bell bearing goes south. Check for any excessive radial play on the bell or check the adjuster nut and inside of the bell for any debris/burrs that would otherwise catch each other.

[sasonrally]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Tower has it IN STOCK for about $4.00.

Thanks I went over to the lHS and they had one for the yokomo. I was able to set up everything and now I am ready for break in. Hope the centax handles itself.

[Light003]

I drove the r40 for the first time today and I cant believe how smooth the car drives. From shaft to belt transition; I like the belt even if it not durable. I think HPI did a fantastic job.
? how do I adjest the clutch so that it engages sooner?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Light003
I drove the r40 for the first time today and I cant believe how smooth the car drives. From shaft to belt transition; I like the belt even if it not durable. I think HPI did a fantastic job.
? how do I adjest the clutch so that it engages sooner?

you know the clutch nut you tightened down on the spring?....loosen that a tad...

[Light003]

Thanks

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Hey Guys... Major tech problem... I have never like the Centex clutch.. Guess it's old school, but I just like using the shoe type clutches... My problem is that while I'm running my car, the Centex spring get's tighter... It sounds strange, I know... The clutch was set up as per the manuel and I thought it was a tuning problem with my Rossi pixy's carb... So I switch to my MT-12 and I know motor is perfect. While running a few laps with that motor, my car would slow and the motor's rpm would rev higher and higher. Brought the car in and check the clutch and what you know, the adjustment screw was five turns in from where is should have been as the per the manuel. I re-adjusted the spring/set screw and gave it another shot... 2 laps later the same problem... Brought the car in the check the clutch and the same thing happen... Anyone with the same problem??? No one else at the track running centex clutches have seen that except for one guy and he said it was a defect with his and just returned it for a new one... Car was a Mugen MTX-3... I really hope HPI would come out with a Shoe type clutch as well. I'm not out trying to win the ROAR national's... Just want to race every now and then at the local track and have some fun while doing it. Any input or info would be greatly appreciated. And yes, the shims were all in the correct places also. I tried to call HPI and they're closed ever other Friday... Go figure.. Thanks

RC_Alan

I understand complete........if Centax is new to you after the shoe type.......you will hate it, you need to rev the engine very high RPM in order to engage.........but on a big track, Centax is a must.

I think I remember from the Serpent site is "Sand the edge of that adjustment nut"....epecially the keyed area.........if you nut is turning inward more and more, you knew it is something from the clutch bell is rubbing against the keyed nut.

If the HPI centax is very much the same as the old Serpent centax, you knew you can adjust that nut thru the hole of the clutch housing externally..........if you did that before, there is a chance that some metal it TAPPING the keyed nut inside and everytime the housing is spinning, it will tap that nut more.....and after several minutes of racing..............turning the nut 5 turns in is possible.

Make sure there are NO CONTACT between the clutch house and the nut.........the inner bearing should have nothing to do in this matter cause the bearing was stopped by the threaded column.

[Digit]

hi guys, i am reporting a broken servo saver...one of the plastic swivel pieces broke during a cartwheel at revelation raceway yesterday. it looks like it was crushed or something. when i assembled the car, that was the only part that gave me any problems, i had to put all my weight on the spring just to get the nut to grab the threads. not to mention killing one's fingers ;)
was this supposed to be that hard to do?on my mtx-3, i dont remember it being so hard. on another note, on the progressive springs, is the "more coiled" part of the spring supposed to face up or down? this is one of those things i never paid attention to, because i only used prog. springs on my beginner rs4-3 :rolleyes:

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Digit
hi guys, i am reporting a broken servo saver...one of the plastic swivel pieces broke during a cartwheel at revelation raceway yesterday. it looks like it was crushed or something. when i assembled the car, that was the only part that gave me any problems, i had to put all my weight on the spring just to get the nut to grab the threads. not to mention killing one's fingers ;)
was this supposed to be that hard to do?on my mtx-3, i dont remember it being so hard. on another note, on the progressive springs, is the "more coiled" part of the spring supposed to face up or down? this is one of those things i never paid attention to, because i only used prog. springs on my beginner rs4-3 :rolleyes:

My experience is that cartwheels typ. end up with broken parts, as far as the spring yes that gave me problems as well, to get it on but that should not have affected the performance of the servo saver. The only thing I found was that the spring took a set after a while and needed to be tightened at least once, other wise the steering bacame very sloppy. As far as the progressive springs up or down does not matter the spring will act in the same way. I just looks nicer if they are facing down or at least the same direction.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
lookie what i found

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=r40&categories_id=&manufacturers_id=

sites working again.......

[RC_Alan]

Rookie Solara... Thanks for your help and your reply... I just rebuilt the clutch... also my clutch nut was loose. HPI is sending out more and more parts for the R40 and the prices are great. I thought the problem was the Rossi R12 being out of tune... I Re- shimmed the clutch and tighten the clutch nut with the proper tool and everything is better. Still like the clutch shoe better..... I guess the Centex will take sometime to get used to...

Again thanks and happy racing

[X-garage]

Shock towers from KAWAHARA

http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/fshou.files/R40/DSCN2227.jpg
http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/fshou.files/R40/DSCN2223.jpg

[Rkmori]

Are thoses shock towers leagl to use at the Challenge???

[Troy Lyman]

So Harry, are you done bugging Kent about when you're getting your Pro car? LOL

Troy

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Are thoses shock towers leagl to use at the Challenge???

No....only HPI or Hot Bodies's option parts are LEGAL to be use at the WORLD CHALLENGE.........so you should wait untill the WORLD finished before you have them install.....beside, your driver drive better with a stock car then a modified car.......

That is the rules for WORLD CHALLENGE, for regular challenge, you can run whatever you want on NITRO MODIFIED class....

One interesting rule.........only small block 12 and 15 engine allow, and they even allow 12 TURBO outlaw engine......wanna chip in $250 to get the Nova Mega MPS or the NRS-12 engine?

[shotgun67203]

I finished building my R40 up to the part where you install the electronics and skipped ahead to where you install the servo saver on the throttle servo and once I apply the brake it works fine, but once I let off the brake arm stays in the same place even though the linkage moves through the servo saver.

[Digit]

on the ROAR race pix at the HPI site, did any one notice the 5th body mount on the front diff cover? what are the 5th posts for? even downforce spread, support on flips, or so no distortion occurs at high speeds? i know the new G4 has this too, is it the new "trend" or what ;)
i just ordered some springs and gears and stuff, from buy hpi, but geeez, there shipping is about 10 bucks, 7.50 for ups ground, and to top it off, they taxed me again for about $3...btw, i live about 1 hour driving from them. so i guess my point is, does any one have a resource for R40 parts? where did you pick up that front shock tower? it looks very low-pro

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Troy Lyman
So Harry, are you done bugging Kent about when you're getting your Pro car? LOL

Troy


TROY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

where the hell you been...I tried emailin ya!!...hows everything?..


yep,I actually called kent and thanked him.....I'm going to run the r40 in las vegas in 2 weeks....


C'mon out....

I'm selling one of my tc3's..I'm gonna keep one tc3 and the r40 till next year and decide which car to race..

I'm currently in first place in the edison rc clubs point series
http://www.edisonmodelr-ccarclub.com/series.htm..

I got there with the tc3..but I'm gonna run the r40 at the last outing oct 18th...

I like driving the r40..its real smooth..very stable....(even more the the tc3)...

but suffers from being too heavy..I ordered the new lightweight shafts from HK...(2sp and middle)...


The r40 runs great...but i'm not sure which car I'm faster with..

but i love the car..got all the gears,one way,,spares,etc....

you going to get one?..


Can I email you at the adress I have?..

PM me with a new one..

Hope all is well

harry

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
No....only HPI or Hot Bodies's option parts are LEGAL to be use at the WORLD CHALLENGE.........so you should wait untill the WORLD finished before you have them install.....beside, your driver drive better with a stock car then a modified car.......

That is the rules for WORLD CHALLENGE, for regular challenge, you can run whatever you want on NITRO MODIFIED class....

One interesting rule.........only small block 12 and 15 engine allow, and they even allow 12 TURBO outlaw engine......wanna chip in $250 to get the Nova Mega MPS or the NRS-12 engine?

I did not think so, ......RE: Nova, I wish I could chip in, but the fact is that I'm planning getting a Novamega .12 5P RE for me, and a new 3PK, and 4 receivers so I can run all my cars from 1 radio. Not to mention I agreed to buy Scott's Micro, so I can run micros this winter, and buy a micro rtr for my kid so we can race at home. $$$$$$ Somebody is going to make money from me this winter. I'm not sure what Walt is going to put into my R40 for the World Challenge.

[Rookie Solara]

Rkmori...........like I mentioned, you will be happy to see your car FLIES with the NM 5P, however, you will also experience the frustration about TURBO engine.....(Glowplug).......make sure get all 5, 6 and 7 plugs to play around........

Also...Blue Thunder..............try soemthing else. (fuels)

I used almost 1 plug per day of racing.......and they are like $8 each.

For my non-turbo, 1-2 plugs per seaosn...........(you do the math)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Digit
on the ROAR race pix at the HPI site, did any one notice the 5th body mount on the front diff cover? what are the 5th posts for? even downforce spread, support on flips, or so no distortion occurs at high speeds? i know the new G4 has this too, is it the new "trend" or what ;)

It is nothing new, but it is usually spotted on TEAM drivers car (NTC3, Serpent, Mugen, Yokomo.....etc).....like you expected, more DOWNFORCE can transfer from the front hood to the chassis, and that is a very good concept.

Just simply add another body post with leveler (like the one from Serpent) and you are done...

Down side.......instead of 4 body clips, you need to do 5 now...extra 2 seconds before the race....LOL

[Digit]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Rkmori...........like I mentioned, you will be happy to see your car FLIES with the NM 5P, however, you will also experience the frustration about TURBO engine.....(Glowplug).......make sure get all 5, 6 and 7 plugs to play around........



{thanks for the response rookie**
tell me about it, i have a NovaMega 5-P turbo RE MS edition, and those plugs DO go fast i ended up using the number 7 in the end after experimenting a bit, not to mention, with a 5-port, it is hella-hard to get it re-started while it is hot. on mine, i need to let it cool down for about 5 minutes before it has enough compression again... :cool: otherwise, i love that engine, it has TONS of speed and great accel!

[Troy Lyman]

My E-mail addy here is a good one Harry! Glad to hear you're liking the car, I told you that they were doing it right...should have listened to me.

All is going well, doing web design from home now and can't beat it! As for R/C, I don't know if I'll pick up an R40. Nitro Sedan is getting to be nuts. Foam tires, 1/8th scale parts, bump starts only...not my bag, you know that. I still run my Super on occasion (but didn't do so well my last outing) and now I've picked up a couple of fun cars. I still run my Savage and have a blast with it (want to do some off road racing with it) and then I picked up a Tamiya F-201. Talk about fun! They have some classes starting up here and I'm doing open wheel stuff again. Need to get the car set up a little better and I'll be good to go. I started parking lot racing with F-1 and am so glad I can do it again. That car handles so well compared to the old cars. And it looks GREAT doing it. Now if only I could reach those stupid turnbuckles.

So what's up with you Crazy H?

Troy

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Also...Blue Thunder..............try soemthing else. (fuels)


What kind of fuel should I run with the Nova Mega.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
What kind of fuel should I run with the Nova Mega.

I have good luck on 3 brand of fuel, but they are all different

Trinity Purple/RED (20% and 30%)..........I have no problem on them, but I heard and seen ppl have problem with the purple 20%....don't know why.<