HPI R40 forum

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
So RS, your saying that some racers were allowed to use some hop-ups while the other racers were not. That's not fair at all. I'm still waiting on someone here in the states to get the light weight shafts "hollow shafts" not to mention the graphite shock towers in stock. I'm tried of seeing "order pending" of coming soon.

Order from HK Rcmodel.........you should get it within a week, and I don't see it is a lot more then the price you see from Tower....may be a little, but you will get them at least a month ahead then Towers.

[Digit]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Overall...........I am not going to keep the R40, there is no meaning to race at HPI Challenge anymore.

wow, pretty harsh...i know they got to use the one-way, but i dont know about shafts and other lightened parts. i think they "caught" harry with a light 2-speed shaft, but i am not 100%, please correct. the only part i saw was "unfair" was probably the fact that they got to use special parts not available anywhere else.

the man was on me for having different pivot balls from an mtx-3. when the shop on-site didnt have them. i also broke 2 uni. shafts (MIP/HPI-hint hint for ti. ;) )

overall, i liked the whole thing, but yeah, the budget could have included more traction sprays.

i did get aboot 1" stack of stickers though :D and a new 350Z body and from a raffel a "RC magazine" towel not avail in the US and a new hat and a bunch of other things.... -----along with a brand new *crushed* pipe from a foreigner who apparently doesnt understand "theres a car dead on the straight away"

[fastharry]

I actually told Frank myself and treky had them......And he said OK on thurs......the shafts are in stock at HPI......they only need to be ordered from distributors..

we agreed to take them out becuase they are supposed to be commercially avail. in the country you are from.....Which we all protested...Like treky said,they are avaialble,only from Hong kong at the time we ordered(about 1 week befere HPI had them in the us)...

They decided on Fri not to let us use them,as several people also had them and left them home becuase of the web site rules..

it was a close call...but the options aren't why anyone won or lost...I think what really hurt was the fact that the car was released in Japan first..they just had more time with the car..

As I've since learned...Ultimate Hobbies had them in stock a week before the race..If I had known that,I never would have agreed to take them out...

HPI will adjust the rules next year...that much I know..

[Rookie Solara]

This is NOT about the RULES.........this is about being UNFAIR.

Same class, same chassis, same race, should follow the SAME RULES...............what in the world excuse was that...? If the parts availble in Japan, that is legal, if the parts is not avalible in USA, that is Illegal.........please define "avalible" for me.....a lot of ppl can get LEGIT HPI OPTION parts weeks AHEAD then HPI USA ppl does.............there is something in this world called INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING....if I don't mine to pay $60 EMS 2 days shipping on top of a $320 sticker price for a R40 from Japan, I will get the R40 at least 1 week before they release the R40 in USA.

On the same matter..........if I order 20 of those R40 and sell them here in USA, does that make me a dealer and will that be consider LEGAL to sell in USA....?

If I order 100 front 1-way, carbon shock towers and light weight shafts and others........and sell them on the net, then these OPTION parts should be considered LEGAL, right...? Or...because I am not HPI, does that make these parts ILLGEAL....?

Of course, HPI will say these parts are illegal cause they haven't released them in USA yet...........but they should realized that, they ARE JUST TOO LATE about their own NEW PRODUCTS.

For me (and my guy that race at WC)......aftermarket parts doesn't make anyone go that much faster....if that is their decision, FINE...........but that is just the beginning......Pull someone's car out of the track for NO REASON....step on someone's car for NO REASON.....unplug the transponder wires when the lead driver is NOT their guy..........

Come on.........I didn't know they used to race RC car like that oversea and the key person is actually the MARSHELL or the PIT GUY........

[KronicRacer]

this isnt cool if this is what happened. so what if there were guys that got stuff over seas, its still hpi stuff. the whole point was to have fun. hard to believe hpi would do their best gestappo impersonation.:( its the wrong way to promote the sport in my opinion.

[Rkmori]

Unfair yes, but this is what happens when the race is governed by a Mfg. Co., there will be bais. That is why ROAR and IFMAR are organized to keep Rules to a level of fairness. HPI although say they are using ROAR standards, are still able to bend the rules to accomidate their needs......unfortunatly the unfairness take away from the fun........:(

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
IOverall...........I am not going to keep the R40, there is no meaning to race at HPI Challenge anymore.


Rookie when did you get an R40??? HK Version?

[Rookie Solara]

Remember we've have several R40 inside the trunk that we can sell at the track...? Now I know I don't need to keep one for myself....

[sasonrally]

Sorry to hear you guys came back with such negative experiences. I think the car came out here in the US way too close to World finals. Big events like this can definitely cause some disagreements in parts usage. Hopefully enough people voiced their opinion to HPI officials to make them change their rule bending technics going forward.:(

Overall I want to know how well the r40 did out there. Many of us are excited to have one and race it.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by sasonrally
Sorry to hear you guys came back with such negative experiences. I think the car came out here in the US way too close to World finals. Big events like this can definitely cause some disagreements in parts usage. Hopefully enough people voiced their opinion to HPI officials to make them change their rule bending technics going forward.:(

Overall I want to know how well the r40 did out there. Many of us are excited to have one and race it.



Don't believe it was a negative experience..HPI did a great job with the race......We all voiced our opinions,and it will be changed for next year....in all honesty,it didn't bother me that much..

What did bother me was that we use all different brands of hop ups during the year at the regional challenges,and ONLY hpi and hot bodies at the worlds..that to me is crazy...how many people didn't want to come because they would have to rebuild there cars with stock or HPI's parts only?......The super I used during the year I couldn't use at the worlds.....so I built another..but how many people could do that?..(BTW,I finshed 9th a main)..


They should make it the same rules all year long.......

And let all parts be legal....no matter who's got them...or what country..

[Digit]

i understand all of your guys' points, and agree that they were not being fair a lot of the time, but since alot of you guys didnt even go to the finals,(the only ones i think from here were myself and harry) you shouldnt criticize them soooo much. it was an hpi race, not a roar race, that is the fact. yes, it was a world final, with way more experienced ~R40~ drivers than most of us, but it was still a "fun" HPI race. not everyone there was striving for the gold, just the experience......that is all......

[C0NTENDER]

I can see fastharry's point about the super. Man with thoses rules, my super would have never made it with a wolfpack chassis and a cross upper deck. But I didn't go so I'm not going to speak too much on the rules.

All I can say is that every HPI challenge I have gone to, Frank has done an outstanding job. When complaints were made, he was always willing to listen to those complaints, take suggestions and consider changes for the next time around. So I have no doubt that HPI will make changes for the next world events they have.

[sasonrally]

Hopefully I did not sound like I was complaining. I was at the last HPI race in NJ and I had a great time, even though it ook for ever to get to my next race. I would have loved to go to vegas and do it again (no budget). I was hoping to hear from the few that went, how well did their R40 did. I am sure next year we will see lots of them in nitro modified. Me included. New rules and all.

[Digit]

ok then, enough with the negativity......my R40 did well, we had to use really soft tires though. i found mine worked better w/out the front sway bar and front gold springs. the only problems i had were people hitting my new pipe, forcing me to use a junky 2 piece that fell apart during my main.(B)also, the announcer was hella-annoying. not to mention super loud for everything.

so, any new news ABOUT THE CAR anyone? like new parts, carbon towers, thicker chassis....i bent the very front tip, where the bumper goes.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Digit

so, any new news ABOUT THE CAR anyone? like new parts, carbon towers, thicker chassis....i bent the very front tip, where the bumper goes.

Now that's what I'm talking about, any new news on parts, I'm roughing it with 5 more weeks in our race season.

[Light003]

Hello people,

I'am sorry about your experiances at the challange. At least it was that, an experiance and you guys(fastharry,RS) had fun.

What do you guys think about the lightened shafts? Do you feel a difference?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Light003
Hello people,

I'am sorry about your experiances at the challange. At least it was that, an experiance and you guys(fastharry,RS) had fun.

What do you guys think about the lightened shafts? Do you feel a difference?



I was so tired,and my reaction times were so off,I wouldn't have felt a direct hit of lightning...http://www.sixfoottiger.com/phpbb2/images/smiles/nut.gif

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Digit
so, any new news ABOUT THE CAR anyone? like new parts, carbon towers, thicker chassis....i bent the very front tip, where the bumper goes.

Integy has aluminum and carbon fiber parts for the R40....see my earlier post....

[Rkmori]

Ok.....so what do you guys think Novamega SX-15 EV-4 MS or SX-12T RE MS.......I'm not too sure which to go with....maybe sombody can give me personal experiences with either or both.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Integy has aluminum and carbon fiber parts for the R40....see my earlier post....


Unfortantly, they don't have the parts in stock yet, so we are still playing the waiting game.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
Unfortantly, they don't have the parts in stock yet, so we are still playing the waiting game.

Well let see who makes it to market first HPI or Integy.....I bet it'll be Integy

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Ok.....so what do you guys think Novamega SX-15 EV-4 MS or SX-12T RE MS.......I'm not too sure which to go with....maybe sombody can give me personal experiences with either or both.

the sx 15 is a big block motor made for the Impact class..

go with the 12.......Take a look at the Nova ns5...that motor I've seen run..it flys..

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
the sx 15 is a big block motor made for the Impact class..

go with the 12.......Take a look at the Nova ns5...that motor I've seen run..it flys..

NS5....? 5 Port...? Nova Mega...?

[treky11]

Everyone RELAX about the challenge. I was there too.

There is tons of bs about what really happened.

First of, the European guy that got to run during track closure was Greg from HPI Europe. He was practicing with the car. They announced it. Who cares that he ran. Its good to have the factory drivers try the cars at different tracks in an attempt to make the car better.

The Japanese drivers ONLY had the hollow shafts. That we weren't allowed to run. Everyone was allowed to run one-ways. I had their cars in my hands personally, and they were stock cars except for the shafts, one ways and spring selection. No different chassis, no different carbon or graphite parts. The TRUTH is he simply outdrove ALL the rest of us. He we very very very good.

I was in the Amain for both Nitro Mod and Super. I finished 5th in Super and 7th in Nitro Mod. I was in 3rd place for 26 1/2 minutes of Nitro Mod (Fastharry and Todd as my pit crew and they were AMAZINGLY FAST) until I made a mistake a hit a board and broke. I had a 2 lap lead on 4th. (Joker and his team pitted me in Super and they were great too)

The track was fine for the foam cars during the mains, if you car didn't handle it was your setup or your driving. It was however very slick for the Supers but it was also dark and cooler out too.

The challenge was Awesome and I will go back next year. If you want to read all the reasons about the rules and the shafts ruling go to rctech.net and read the R40 forum thread, its all posted there, by me. Frankly, we all have an AMERICAN to thank for not being able to run the lightweight shafts, and he wasn't from HPI. Enough said on that.

Again, HPI did a great job, the race was great. They fixed a glicth in the rules so it won't be an issue next year.

And yes, two Americans were on the nitro mod podium, they were 2nd and third. Walt and Roland i believe were their names. Just wish I could have been one of them.

The R40 did great, held up well, and was easy to tune to the track and was easy to drive. I couldn't have asked for more.

Well, except for not wacking the board with 3 1/2 minutes left.!

[treky11]

Rk - get the Novarossi NS12S5. That is the motor fastharry is talking about. It is awesome. I had it in my car at the challenge. Easy to tune, runs awesome, idles fine, Tons of power.

Ran it all week at the challenge and in the 30 minute main. Performed great!

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by treky11
Rk - get the Novarossi NS12S5. That is the motor fastharry is talking about. It is awesome. I had it in my car at the challenge. Easy to tune, runs awesome, idles fine, Tons of power.

Ran it all week at the challenge and in the 30 minute main. Performed great!

According to Rookie, the 5 port is a itch to tune, and you need to carry multiple, heat rated plugs.....Where as the 3 port is more tolerant to changes such as temp. mixture, plug....... but this is only 1 persons view.... multiple views are better...... more input please....

[Light003]

There's a NTC3 at my track with the NS12S5. It took him about 1-2 hours to tune it, bt let me tell you that s**t is fast.

[Light003]

I was so tired,and my reaction times were so off,I wouldn't have felt a direct hit of lightning...


I guess you would notice the difference as it would add up with more lightned parts.

[Rookie Solara]

NS12 or NS5 or whatever that is listed on Nova Rossi website claimed 1.6hp 41000 rpm............yes, of course, no doubt, its got to be the fastest 12 motor (turbo) right now. (not including JP mod and others..)

[treky11]

I had no problems with my NS12S5. I broke it in with HPI 20% (for the race, that was the handout fuel). I broke it in at home in NJ in 40-50 F degree weather. Ran it for about 1 quart more at home. No problems at all tuning.

Went to Vegas and ran it, the same way. I leaned it a little bit but that was it. I leaned becuase I wanted more power, not for tuning needs.

I ran the stock plug it came with the entire time.

My engine starts instantly, and runs awesome. It idles and like I said, ran great in the main. Lots of other guys flamed out but not me. I compared the tuning ease and starting ease to OS all weekend. Fastharry will vouch for it.

I love mine!

[fastharry]

Originally posted by treky11
I had no problems with my NS12S5. I broke it in with HPI 20% (for the race, that was the handout fuel). I broke it in at home in NJ in 40-50 F degree weather. Ran it for about 1 quart more at home. No problems at all tuning.

Went to Vegas and ran it, the same way. I leaned it a little bit but that was it. I leaned becuase I wanted more power, not for tuning needs.

I ran the stock plug it came with the entire time.

My engine starts instantly, and runs awesome. It idles and like I said, ran great in the main. Lots of other guys flamed out but not me. I compared the tuning ease and starting ease to OS all weekend. Fastharry will vouch for it.

I love mine!



If I hadn't seen it,I wouldn't have believed it..

that motor ran great..

[C0NTENDER]

Digit,

Are the pivot balls from the mtx-3 a direct replacement for the ones on the R40?

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
Digit,

Are the pivot balls from the mtx-3 a direct replacement for the ones on the R40?

Pivot balls from a NTC3 will work the ball Diameter are the same.

[Rkmori]

Ok, I think I will probably go with the NM 12 5p MS...Thanks for everybodys input.....

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Pivot balls from a NTC3 will work the ball Diameter are the same.

Thanks

[Digit]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Ok.....so what do you guys think Novamega SX-15 EV-4 MS or SX-12T RE MS.......I'm not too sure which to go with....maybe sombody can give me personal experiences with either or both.

i have the sx-12t re M.S. and i have kinda mixed feelings for it, for one, it flies whenever, which is cool...this is my first 5-pt motor, and it is really finicky with any adjustments, not to mention hard to turn on when hot. if you are really good with tuning, then go for this one and you wont be sorry :)

[Digit]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
Digit,

Are the pivot balls from the mtx-3 a direct replacement for the ones on the R40?

sorry, i dont read here on the weekends, yeah, they are holding up well, and they feel a bit lighter/stronger, the R40 ones have that clip stopper on them and are a bit shorter, that is the only diff.

[Light003]

How many turns out is you'r 2 speed set at.

[Light003]

never mind I figured out the perfect setting.

[sebtarta]

Hi guys, I have not posted here in a while. But I am planning in buying the R40, I have read all the threads here, and I see that there have being some issues with the car.
For example:
- Parts are not that strong as older HPI cars
- The weight is out of this world
- Not everything is carbon such as the shock towers


Say that if I DO go for this car, which are the optional parts I should get in order to prevent play in the steering. the carbon shock towers to replace the thick metal plates. The pulleys are made out of plastic, how about some aluminum pulleys.

What this car has that is very intresting are the prices for the replacement parts. They are cheaper than the old NRS4.
Thanx for the opinions, as I am debating between a Impulse Pro and the R40.

Good luck, :)

[Digit]

.

[Digit]

i dont think serpent and hpi should be compared to eachother, but this R40 is a very nice bang for your buck kinda deal. the r40 is a "pro level" car, and i like mine very much, however, i dont think it will come close to my mtx-3, but it did cost a lot less... the weight is not really a problem, and it doesnt feel too heavy on the track. there are subtle diff's, like shock towers, chassis thickness, shocks, bushings in some places, but thats about it. i have never driven a serpent, so i am comparing it to the mugen right now

parts for the mugen & serpent are somewhat harder to find, where as hpi parts are carried by hobby peoples and other hobby chains. BTW, they are just as strong as all hpi parts...

there arent many option parts right now, but when they come out, i am getting a thicker chassis, new carbon towers, and braces. all that's out right now, are the gears,springs,one-ways and l.weight shafts. ~~~bottom line, i love my r40, and it has real potential with anyone, you should try this instead of going all out on a $600 serpent

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Digit
i dont think serpent and hpi should be compared to eachother, but this R40 is a very nice bang for your buck kinda deal. the r40 is a "pro level" car, and i like mine very much, however, i dont think it will come close to my mtx-3, but it did cost a lot less... there are subtle diff's, like shock towers, chassis thickness, shocks, bushings in some places, but thats about it. i have never driven a serpent, so i am comparing it to the mugen right now

parts for the mugen & serpent are somewhat harder to find, where as hpi parts are carried by hobby peoples and other hobby chains.

there arent many option parts right now, but when they come out, i am getting a thicker chassis, new carbon towers, and braces. all that's out right now, are the gears,springs,one-ways and l.weight shafts. ~~~bottom line, i love my r40, and it has real potential with anyone, you should try this instead of going all out on a $600 serpent

Digit,how will it not compare to the Mugen?...

[Digit]

Originally posted by fastharry
Digit,how will it not compare to the Mugen?...

i said to the serpent, well from what i hear about serpents anyways....basically the towers, bushings and other little things like that. from my experiences, i think the mugen is a bit higher quality

do any of you guys have the problem where your pivot ball retainers unscrew themselves after a while of running?

[Light003]

Yes, that happens to me all the time. I have the extra parts but I will probaly put thread lock or CA.

[sasonrally]

I had to threadlock mine in the front cause after two or three runs I would get lots of play. So far it is hold ing well.

[Saboteur]

Hey Sasonrally, how are things going at QURC? Still waiting here for the lhs to get a shipment of the R40. Not sure if he will even order a NTC3 or any other high level sedan and stock parts for it. :( :mad:

[sasonrally]

The season is over and the cold is coming in so very little bashing. Soon I will have to get back to cold weather off-road or micro in door.

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by sasonrally
The season is over and the cold is coming in so very little bashing. Soon I will have to get back to cold weather off-road or micro in door.

C'mon, I thought you guys were "polar bears". :D Anyway I'll be doing both onroad and offroad bashing here myself. My Neo and Losi NT keep me busy in the hobby. Time to get some more OS #8 plugs and test out that gallon of Sidewinder fuel I got for $19.20. :)

[RC_Alan]

How many of you guys and I guess some gals... Are running 1/10 Lola bodies on your R40's??? I know out here on the West Coast in SoCal, alot of 1/10 scale 200mm racers have dump there Dodge Stratus bodies for the Yokomo and Racers Choice Lola body and also the GTP open body. It's kinda like driving a smaller 1/8 scale car... I'm running them on my R40 and my NTC3. HPI should release/make the GT1 and the Lola body for the 1/10 sedan. The same ones they have for the Proceed. I hope I'm not the only one that feels this way... They could make a killing in sells... Protoform is also releasing a 1/10 Lola for the new open 1/10 Ofna LD3 Page 20 Dec addition of RC Nitro Mag... Post back and if you've tried this class of bodies and like the handling... Send HPI a note... It can't hurt..:cool: I'll post a pic for those who don't know what they look like..

PS. Sorry for breaking the flow of the thread...

[RC_Alan]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134287&perpage=25&pagenumber=15

This the link to page 15 of this thread that has the picture of the GTP1 body. The Lola is like the ones the 1/8 scales are using..

Happy racing!!!

[fastharry]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134287&perpage=25&pagenumber=15

This the link to page 15 of this thread that has the picture of the GTP1 body. The Lola is like the ones the 1/8 scales are using..

Happy racing!!!

did the lola body clear the front shock tower?...

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Digit
i said to the serpent, well from what i hear about serpents anyways....basically the towers, bushings and other little things like that. from my experiences, i think the mugen is a bit higher quality

do any of you guys have the problem where your pivot ball retainers unscrew themselves after a while of running?

Sorry late in the discussion....Remodeling the basment I had no computer for a while but what I did and really works great, and is not permenent like CA, I used pipe thread tape and wrapped in around a few times. They do not come loose and are still removeable, At the time I was not sure if the Threadlock will attack the plastic, so I gave the tape a shot.

[RC_Alan]

fastharry... No, the front shock tower gets in the way... You'll have to cut a few extra holes to make it a fit... Man, when the car is set up right, it handles great with that body... I must say though compared with other 1/10 cars, this R40 is very heavy... I'll be happy when HPI does release some of the Hop-ups that there team drivers have...:confused:

[C0NTENDER]

Just added the light weight shafts to my R40, I'm now down to 1757g.

[KronicRacer]

has the racing chassis come out yet:confused:

[Light003]

Sorry to mess up the flow, but I have a problem with my 2-speed.
It just wont shift. I followed FastHarry's advice in the earlier post but the car will still not shift. What's the Problem. I don't think that it ever shifted and I've built the 2-speed twice.

[RC_Alan]

Light003... I know that thing can be hard to get correct.. That 2 speed is very much like the Mugen and Serpent 2 speed. If there's a RC track near by, go there and ask one of guys there to set you up... Might cost all of a can of Soda and the knowledge of building it correctly... Or you can take it to a hobby shop that will build it and test it for you. If you give HPI a call, that might help and then again it might not... It's one thing to read info here on the boards and get info over the telephone... but it's just not the same as being there and learing how to do it yourself... building a 2 speed looks easy, but it's not. One adjustment off and nothing will work... Good luck and let us know what happens.. :)

[RCNitroDude999]

Ive been with the rs4 3 ss for a while and I am pleased with the way the car performs but I am wanting to move on to something better. I've been debating over the new Trinity/Team Magic G4 and the R40. What are yall's opinions on the two, does anyone here own both? and if so, which do you favor?

Thanks for yall's time and help!

[RC_Alan]

RCNitroDude999, I'm not knocking the R40, it's a car that is very adjustable, rock solid and extra parts cost next to nothing... That said, if your interest in true RC Nitro racing, I would say check out the Kyosho V-one-RR Evolution and the Trinity G4. That Kyosho V-one-RR Evolution is a direct link to it's 1/8 onroad, it feel about 2 lbs. lighter then the R40... I know, but the difference is that much... and it comes with some of the best pastic in the business. The Trinity G4 looks sweet and it to is also very lite. Setting that car up though might be a little tricky. Someone with that car might have to help you set it up, but once dialed in.... It's all good. All three cars cost about $260.00-$280.00. One word of note... The Kyosho and the HPI rear end is very much alike... If build correctly, that rear end will be planted while driving, I just don't like the way HPI design it's steering setup... Compared with the G4, V-one-RR and the Mugen MTX3, the HPI's R40 is a step or two behind... and again the weight is an issue... Well at least it is to me. That said, The R40 is not a bad car and if you can wait and wait for the proper hop up's to come out for it. That car needs a diat very bad... I know I'm knocking this weight thing alot, but no 1/10 200mm sedan kit should weigh that much... Even Atsushi Hara's car almost didn't make the cut at the Roar Nationals because of it's weight and that's with all the factory light weight stuff on it... Oh, his car was not the fastest car there either... It handle very well and he's a great driver... And some very good luck... Hope the info helps... PS. Seeing that you're an HPI guy "RS4 3 SS" I know you'll pick the HPI... That's why I did..

RC_Alan:D

[sideways]

Hi guys, I'm new here...

I bought my R40 a couple of months ago. As far as I can tell, it's a good car. But I do have some problems with the left steering post (#73482). It keeps on breaking. I have broken it twice in 5 heats of race. There is also another guy at the local track who has the same problem. My local track has some pretty tight turns, it seems that the steering post just couldn't handle the tension.

I was wondering is there any solution to this? I was thinking of actually making a custom steering post from aluminum. It's gonna cost quite a bit but in the long term at least it's going to be reliable. Is there any aluminum off the shelf steering post available (Hot Bodies or GPM)? Or better, from titanium?

Thanks in advance for the reply!

[RCNitroDude999]

Actually I am aiming toward the G4, although I would preffer a car that is a bit easier to set-up and get dialed-in. I feel that shouldn't be to much of a problem though, I've never had much of a problem setting up my cars in the past, usually its all about the person behind the wheel, I've known people who had problems getting their car set up and another person with the same exact model who couldnt wish for a better set-up. Thanks for the info man, I'll ask around for a few more opinions before i make my decision.

[fastharry]

I'm not trying to argue with anyone..

but my r40 weighs 1746 grams,uncut tires,no fuel,and no body...it weighs less than my Impulse........

And it feels as nimble as my tc3 nitro...esp through switchbacks...



and not for anything,but Tower still doesn't have G4 parts listed,Horizon does,but NONE are in stock...That car would be my last choice(esp with Trinitys support)..

My opinions,thats all

[RC_Alan]

Fastharry, the key thing is you're happy with your car... RCNitroDude999 wanted to get some options about the G4 and a few other cars along with the R40... Every car has it's pros and cons... That Kyosho V-one-RR Evolution is a great car, so is the Mugen MTX3 and the Trinity G4. Put them side by side and weigh them with the R40 and the R40 will be much heavier. Don't get me wrong, I have the R40 and posted pics of it here in this Thread. I've just notice a few things about the car that I didn't like. Can these things be corrected??? Some yes and some no. The weight issue can be corrected by getting alot of light weight aftermarket parts and HPI hop up parts when ever they decide to sell them in the US. That Kyosho V-one-RR Evolution, is just great right out of the box. The Mugen is great also. I'm not knocking the R40... There are just area's that HPI should have considered... I guess they did in a way... Knowing that some of there buyer's will be running this car in parking lots, they made a brick of a car... Knowing also that true racers might want to give the car a shot, they made the car very adjustable and stable... Dial out the weight, correct the steering setup... If possble and you'll have a one great car also.. Just my .025 cents...

[C0NTENDER]

Ok, time to add my two cents. Yes the R40 is heavy out the box, but would you believe me if I told you that there is a guy at our track that has his R40 weighing in less than a mtx-3. The only hop up he has is the light weight shafts. You don't have to buy tons of hop ups to make this car light. As for my R40, the only thing that I have added as hop-ups is the light weight shafts and my R40 weighs in at 1765g w/o gas and body. The R40 is a very competitve car. Just as competitive as any touring car on the market. No, Hara's car was not the fastest at the NATs but who cares about the fastest car, most people don't buy touring cars to drag race. Heck, the R40 just took 2nd place at the Nats in Japan.

As for the handling, this car handles great. It handles so good "even with it's so called huge weight problem" that I'm now selling my TC3. The problem I have with the Kyosho is the price of parts and parts availability. The G4, while it looks nice, we only have two guys at our track that are running it, so I can't say too much about it as I have not driven one. I'm only plan on adding one more thing to my R40, and that is the graphite shock towers.

So if your looking into getting a new car, I would really think about the R40. I only bought the car to use at next years HPI challenge, but wow was I surprised. It's now the car that I will use for the remainder of this race season as well as next year.

Anyone looking for a used NTC3?

[fastharry]

I don't want this weight issue to be a runaway problem for HPI....

I haven't weighed a vone r..but tower has it listed a 1700 grams...and thats without body also....

My r40 weighs less than my impulse.....

and if the r40 weighs in a 1850 with full fuel and body I don't care...the car drives great....is very tunable...and ROAR legal weight is 1725 grams.......so if HPI has the car at 1850..and I need to spend 100 in hop ups to lose 100 grams,I don't care...

On all 3 racetracks I've run the car,its easily as fast as any touring car out there....and VERY easy to drive.....parts are available,hop ups are cheap,the car responds well to tuning inputs,and HPI is committed to improving the car with a hands on nitro program....

Take those factors also when looking for your next car...95% percent of people racing today couldn't tell the differnce with a lighter car.....in fact,the extra weight might do them some good..

[fastharry]

Originally posted by fastharry
I don't want this weight issue to be a runaway problem for HPI....

I haven't weighed a vone r..but tower has it listed a 1700 grams...and thats without body also....

My r40 weighs less than my impulse.....

and if the r40 weighs in a 1850 with full fuel and body I don't care...the car drives great....is very tunable...and ROAR legal weight is 1725 grams.......so if HPI has the car at 1850..and I need to spend 100 in hop ups to lose 100 grams,I don't care...

On all 3 racetracks I've run the car,its easily as fast as any touring car out there....and VERY easy to drive.....parts are available,hop ups are cheap,the car responds well to tuning inputs,and HPI is committed to improving the car with a hands on nitro program....

Take those factors also when looking for your next car...95% percent of people racing today couldn't tell the differnce with a lighter car.....in fact,the extra weight might do them some good..


So hara won tha race without being the fastest car?...sounds like a great endorsement to me.....Maybe he finds the car easy(and consistant also) to drive..;)

[RC_Alan]

Not trying to beat a dead horse... We all like the car some even love the car... Is the R40 perfect??? No. No car is... Can it be a great car??? Yes. If your car is great to you right now as it is... Wonderful. I just know Hara's car had alot done to it to make it right for him... I to would like to make some of the changes he did to his car... A racing Pro will do all that he can to put the best product on the track. The R40 out of the box is a good car... The issues mentioned earlier if address, could make a good car a great car. Trust me, if a car is lighter, it will handle better... Hara had all of the best light weight stuff availble to him... His car is different because of this. I'm happy that I have a car "R40", that is doing well internationally.... I know that in time I'll be able to dail the car in to be the best it can be on the track. That's all I was trying to say. Oh and for the 95% of the people wouldn't care if the car was heavier and that it might handle better... Come on now... Not trying to llame and I'm not. Any racing Pro will tell you less weight and a balanced car are the best handling cars.. Fastharry, I know you like the car and so do I. Happy racing in your part of the US...:D

[treky11]

well, i am more concerned about HPI fixing the plastic quality (its too soft and develops too much slop too quickly) than I am about losing 100 grams.

no offense to anyone, but i would lay odds that i took your car and switched shafts and let you drive it that 99% of the people wouldn't know if they had lightweight shafts in or not (and i include myself in that 99%) that goes for any 100 grams anywhere. very, very few people drive that well.

its a great car, let's focus on driving it better.

had i done that i woulda been third at the worlds, instead i wacked a board and now i'm just a shoulda, coulda, woulda

[RC_Alan]

treky11, not sure who you are nor about you almost placing third at the worlds... I'm not talking about saving 100 grams of weight nor do I consider myself a bad driver. Am I great driver??? No, but I do know what it takes to have a good car handle the best that it can. The weight issue is brought up also in the Dec addition of R/C Cars pg 64 you can also check them out on www.rc-car.com And I quote... Experienced racers get carbon parts to lighten their electric and nitro cars and trucks. Lighter is always better. Less weight on the car means less stress on the motor and less draw on the batteries... Good drivers who switch to lighter versions of the stock parts, i.e. carbon and graphite, can gain a competitive advantage of speed and runtime over those who have stock parts... The R40 like I said is a good car... I have the car and I like it very much. It's that I know the car can be better, much better... I'm not sure if the light weight items that Atsushi Hara had on his car is availible in your area. Like I said in my earlier post is that his car is different from stock because of the parts he had on his car. I'm sure alot of Nitro sedan owners don't really care and just like to drive there cars and have fun. While others will take the time to use a setup board, put the correct camber, ride height, droop, toe in/toe out, build there shock correctly ect, ect... I'm that type of hobbyist. Why spend $500.00-$700.00 of your hard earn money in this hobby if you're not going to at least try to put the best product out there on the track... This is for the true hobbyist. Parking lot bashers and weekend RC track drivers might not care as much... I want to enjoy driving my car and not fighting it around the track and hitting the boards hoping that I didn't break something. That's not me nor my car...lol... I'm just trying to make a point. When a car is Dialed... All you have to do is pull the trigger, turn the steering wheel and the car will do exactly what you want it do... Drive Hara's car... I'm sure it won't drive like yours... Nor mine... Hara is a world class driver, true, but his car was not stock at the ROAR Nationals neither. My goal is to get as close to that as possble and maybe make it better in car setup and maybe in driving as well...
:cool:

PS. Not trying to flame anyone here. I know we all like the R40 and want to enjoy it very much... My goals are just alittle different I guess...

[didrace]

I was about to buy the r40 because from what i have read it is a good car. I used to have the ts4n and i won some races. Now i want to buy a touring car that is fast and has good hadling. Because i will order it from towerhobbies i will not have spare parts where i live so i want a touring car that is quite durable. Offcoarse I will order some spare parts in my ordering list but i sure want it to be durable After i saw the debate of you guys i got confused and now i dont know which car to buy. Where i live i haven't seen any of these mugen serpent hpi to run so i don't know how each one behaves and how durable each car is. Also someone in this forum said that there is a part on the r40 steering system that brakes easily. I don't want you guys to put you in a debate again the only think i want is to tell me a good touring (if it is possible the best car for you) to buy and i want one that is hop up stock.

Thanks!!!

[treky11]

i was referring to the hpi world challenge just held.

i still say the same thing. yes my car goes on a setup board and gets totally dialed in. but the 100 grams don't matter for 99.99999% of the drivers.

and no offense, but i doubt anyone on this board falls into the .000001 that it does matter for.

case and point. the guy that won the super nitro mod race at the worlds by 10 laps had a stock car. no 4mm chassis, no graphite, he just drove better.

i had the liteweight shafts in, took them out and couldn't tell the difference. i'm not good enough. if i buy hop-ups its because i like the eye-candy or because i am bored and want to tinker. very few ever make a noticable difference.

the r40 box stock, with the right setup, springs, shock oil, diff oil, camber, caster, toe, etc., set up right will do just fine if you drive clean/well.

i agree about hara and his car, but he falls into that .000001 %. something more people could do if they spent more time practicing/learning rather than worrying about 100 grams and spending money on hop-ups they don't need.

[sasonrally]

Didrace:

Don't read too much into what the latest debate has been all about. The car does seem little heavy but for your purpose, I don't think this matters much. Unless you are doing IFMA racing, where they weigh your car.
The car drives very well. And responds well to any small changes to your tuning. I have played around with different set ups and each change is noticeable right away.

A few quick points on the car:

Great handeling off the box.
Easy to tune, and tunable as a pro car.
Spare parts are a little scarce right now but within a month or so, you will see the likes of towerhobbies with lots of spare parts. SOme of the parts form other KITs are also compatible. Just gotta know the KITs to be able to tell which parts are these.
The car can certainly measure up with the TC3, MTX 3, and other pro cars out there so read up on those as well to balance your decision.
If you don't have a LHS then see which spare parts are easy to order for you, 'cause that will be your decising issue. imho.

Good luck in your decision. I had mine for two months now. So far I am very pleased with it.

[RC_Alan]

Sasonrally... Great reply for Didrace!!! I guess some read the posts completely and some don't. I never said the R40 was a bad car... and for his goals, the R40 would be a great buy. Every car has it's Pros and Cons. I know in my area, the R40 parts costs are outstanding... Fuel tank for$7.50. Bumper set for $6.00 rear Buldhead set for $10.00... So Didrace, the cost of up keep and maintenance for the R40 is the best in the business. The Car stock if build right will handle very well for you also. I know this is an R40 forum and most folks here will be pro HPI and R40. I don't follow that trend. I bought the R40 even though 70% of the driver in my area are driving the Mugen MTX3, you have a few LD3's, TC3's, Kyosho V-one RR ect... I chose to be different then the trend. The R40 is a very nice car and one that I would recommend to anyone new to the hobby or someone that is ready to take there driving skills to the next level. I'm not bias for one company then another. If a car handles well and is good all around, I'll say so and If a car can be better, I'll say so also. And if a car is a piece of junk... You guessed it... I see the Team drivers all the time from other companies. Even had Barry Baker drive my NTC3 with the TRX2.5 in it a few months back...Not knocking the hpi world challenge... You have some very good drivers that show up and compete there. Are those drivers as good as ROAR or IFMA top drivers from Serpent, Mugen, Team Associated.. That's like comparing apples and oranges... Atsushi Hara took his HPI R40 to the world stage and won.. Can some HPI world challenge drivers complete with them on that level??? No, but they are good drivers just the same having fun with there hobbies. What ever level you wish to race on, enjoy it.. Have fun. That's what this hobby is all about. As for that minuet .00009 few as some would have you believe other wise... dail in your cars, ture your tires correctly, buy the best parts for your cars if you want to be the very best... Practice, practice, practice!!! And if someone tells you other wise... Just follow your heart and don't give up if you want to be the best...:cool

Let's get back to helping each other out here. My point was proven. Do as you wish.. Let's all have fun with our R40's light weight or heavy weight as long as you're happy with your car.

[tunerjetta29]

So does anyone know if anyone will be releasing any aluminum/titanium steering posts? the only complaint i have with my car is it seems the spring for the servo saver is too hard. I continue to snap the non-servo saver post even with minor bumps. So any word on aluminum or better posts would be great.

[treky11]

well said rc_alan.

and believe me, i am well aware that the hpi worlds is an amature event

[didrace]

First i want to thank you all of you guys that have been very helpful at me. And here i want to admit that i have the same point of thinking with Rc Alan. Everything he has said is what i am saying to my friends and to those who are in this hobby. Now you have conviced me and i will buy the r40. Only tell me which parts brake easily. I will also buy the os 12 turbo head. Anyone knows if this engine is any good. What else do i need to make the car better. Anyone knows a good body from towerhobbies that has a lot of down force?

Thanks!!

[fastharry]

Originally posted by treky11
well said rc_alan.

and believe me, i am well aware that the hpi worlds is an amature event

yeah?.....Well I'd like to see some of the club amateurs run up agaist the european and japanese teams that were there(AND the top US guys)...Those guys were way above that..

and I'll tell you something else....I've run against guys that were in the Amain and B main at nat'l events.....(and so has treky,he's just doesn't remember).....Guys that aren't sponsored,but drive REAL well.......that actually fly out to an event with their own money.....(and they were ALL winners of BIG regional events)

I'd put Treky and the top guys in electric pro,nitro mod,and super nitro up against any of them....

[RC_Alan]

That Great Didrace!!! Only, if I were you, I would buy a Mugen MR-12 motor... Put's out about 1.45 legal hp's and costs about $160.00. That OS. TR.12 Turbo costs more and puts out less power at 1.35hp. Both are great motors though, but why buy an outlaw when you can have a legal motor that put's out more power for less money... If cost is not an issue... Buy the new Nova Rossi NS3 Race motor... Again, I never said the HPI world Challenge drivers were not good... I said that comparing them to ROAR and IMFA Team Drivers from Serpent, Mugen, Team Associated ect. is just not the same. And it's not... Treky11 and Fastharry, I know we all love this hobby and our cars very much. My goal here is to share what I know and learn what I don't. Maybe one day when the HPI world challenge comes out to SoCal... We all can have a beer.. Or maybe a Pepsi and laugh about this whole thing. lol... Just trying to help when I can and pass on valuable info when I can to those who need alittle help. I'm no pro myself... it's hard taking those first steps in this hobby when you're just starting out... You know, everybody has an answer for you but it's never the correct/right answer that you really need. I hope I didn't offend anyone here in anyway. Just sharing knowledge to the R40 family when I can...:)

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Again, I never said the HPI world Challenge drivers were not good... I said that comparing them to ROAR and IMFA Team Drivers from Serpent, Mugen, Team Associated ect. is just not the same.

My two cents on the HPI challenge issue. When I go to the HPI Challege, I expect to be in the A-main. If my cars are working w/o any problems going into the weekend, there is no way that I'm going to get bet out for making the a-main at challenge. Now with our club racing, that is still going on, heck, I have to fight to make the A-main. the times that I didn't make it, I had to fight my way through the bump up and that wasn't easy. So there is a big difference between the two. but lets change the subject already.

[RC_Alan]

C0NTENDER... The subject was already changed... Anyone with setup tips for the R40, post them here also...

:cool:

[Light003]

Hello!
i just installed hollow shafts and one way.
The problem I am having is when I roll the car it make a "cling" noise. I know for sure that it's the rear diff belt. I took it apart 2x and still "cling"
Ex:

===="Cling"====="Cling"===

any suggestions?

[RC_Alan]

Light003, where are you getting your parts from??? I have the front oneway already... I'm trying to locate the graphite shock towers, the super chassis and the hollow gear shafts.... What website/hobby shop are you using??? Thanks:)

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Light003
Hello!
i just installed hollow shafts and one way.
The problem I am having is when I roll the car it make a "cling" noise. I know for sure that it's the rear diff belt. I took it apart 2x and still "cling"
Ex:

===="Cling"====="Cling"===

any suggestions?

That's funny, b/c I thought I heard a Cling Cling noise in my car also, and this was after I installed the hollow shafts as well. I'm pretty sure it's something else, but I'm still going to break my car down this week and clean it.

[dyslexic]

RC_allen last I checked tower had both the hollow shafts and the oneway in stock.

as for the ching sound could it be the brake disc tapping the hollow shaft? just a guess here.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by dyslexic
RC_allen last I checked tower had both the hollow shafts and the oneway in stock.

as for the ching sound could it be the brake disc tapping the hollow shaft? just a guess here.

Last time I checked, Tower isn't going to have the hollow shafts in until sometime early Nov. so I guess within the next two weeks. I ordered mine from rcmodel in Hong Kong about three weeks ago.

[Light003]

I also ordered the shafts from Rcmodel in Hong Kong and it took 7 days.

Contender your stuff is probaly in costums. Also let me know what you find out about the "cling" noise.
It feels like the belt is skiping; when the "cling noise sounds there's also a slight jerk.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Light003
I also ordered the shafts from Rcmodel in Hong Kong and it took 7 days.

Contender your stuff is probaly in costums. Also let me know what you find out about the "cling" noise.
It feels like the belt is skiping; when the "cling noise sounds there's also a slight jerk.

Oh I'm sorry, I ordered them like three weeks ago and it only took 4 days to get here. I was very impressed with the shipping and I was impressed that I actually saw a difference in performance. The other drivers saw the difference too.

Light003, I will be sure to let you know if I find out what that noise is.

[Light003]

Hello folks,

How is your car set up for your track. (camber, caster, shock postion, oil ,etc)

I would just like to know what setup your running

[RC_Alan]

I tried the gear change at the local track and the difference was amazing!!! I would recommend to anyone that is looking for more speed to use the 17/49 1st gear and the 21/43 for the 2nd.... When the tranny shifted... 2nd gear hit and the car just took OFF!!! If you're running a weak motor, it might bog down because of the space in the gearing. But if you're running a proper motor..ie 1.3 plus hp's you'll be glade you did the switch. You might even want to give the 16T first gear a try, you'll have an even greater takeoff, but you'll have to adjust your shift point on the tranny. Thought I would pass along my findings... Anyone else with some speed tips/gearing tips that works.... Please post. As far as rear camber... No more then -03 degress camber. Also if you're running on a high bit track, use the very soft rear springs. The silver R40 soft springs are now availble.
Light003, check your rear camber after you've raced for the day and see if it has increased... Strange, but some guys are reporting that first there rear camber was set at -02 before they raced and after it was like -06 and there tires were coning real bad... Just passing the info along... Goodluck

RC_Alan

[Digit]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
... Strange, but some guys are reporting that first there rear camber was set at -02 before they raced and after it was like -06 and there tires were coning real bad... Just passing the info along... Goodluck

RC_Alan

that is because they hit a wall, and the threaded camber screw stripped into the plastic.

[RC_Alan]

No Digit... That was not the case. Two of the cars were set up at the track and both cars didn't crash or hit any walls.. the threaded camber screw were not stripped into the plastic either. It just looks like they lost there settings. The rear camber adjustment arm as per the manual has the link on the lower hole placement. I would recommended later placing it on the next higher hole/placement and that seem to have solve the problem.

[fastharry]

if they lost their adjustment,something had to move......in,out,pushed in,pulled out,bent,crooked,whetever..something moved...theres no HooDoo in rc cars(well,maybe in the engine tuning:D )

[Light003]

I haven't had any problems yet, nor I havent hit any walls or anything like that. Can you believe that I'm still trying to fix my 2-speed. Still won't shift. Btw, I just picked up a used Hudy universal set up station from E-bay for $50 and don't quite know how to use it. I know the common sence part but which blocks(triangle, rectangle) do I actuall set the car up on. Or if you guy's know any sites with instructions post would be great. Thanks

[tunerjetta29]

Well i have my first major complaint with the R40's engineering. The crappy steering servo guard is useless. I was t-boned at fairly lowspeed by another car at the races last weekend and it cracked open my $60 servo. So add an aluminum or titianium servo guard to the list of needed options. :(

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Light003
I haven't had any problems yet, nor I havent hit any walls or anything like that. Can you believe that I'm still trying to fix my 2-speed. Still won't shift. Btw, I just picked up a used Hudy universal set up station from E-bay for $50 and don't quite know how to use it. I know the common sence part but which blocks(triangle, rectangle) do I actuall set the car up on. Or if you guy's know any sites with instructions post would be great. Thanks


you owe me big time..;)

http://www.hudy.net/products/setup/setupinstructions.htm

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by fastharry
if they lost their adjustment,something had to move......in,out,pushed in,pulled out,bent,crooked,whetever..something moved...theres no HooDoo in rc cars(well,maybe in the engine tuning:D )

Exactly, something must have slipped. Like Digit suggested, you have to look at the threaded camber screw stripped. I'm replacing mine with something other than the stock ones, because mine did slide into the plastic. But I'm going to wait until after the race season to replace it.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
Well i have my first major complaint with the R40's engineering. The crappy steering servo guard is useless. I was t-boned at fairly lowspeed by another car at the races last weekend and it cracked open my $60 servo. So add an aluminum or titianium servo guard to the list of needed options. :(

I noticed this when I built the car, so I took some measures to add some protection for that servo. You know the bumper foam that HPI sells, I places some on my steering servo for added protection.

[Light003]

Yaahooo !!!! Thanks Harry.

Yes I owe you.:D

[Digit]

i was having some different problems with the servo saver, mainly that it wouldnt center for some reason, even with a 130oz torque servo; it turned out that i had to loosen the screws that hold the flanged bearings into the purple plate. now it is kinda loose/sloppy. but that is the only thing i am a little iffy on. an al. set would be nice...

[Light003]

Contender,

Did you by ant chance fix the "cling" problem. Or are you just driving on it

[limitz]

Sorry this is off the current topic...
but has anyone experienced a problem with the belt tensioner being real tight as you install it onto the chassis? Meaning that the 2 ball bearings aren't free and does not spin what so ever because of tightening the screw that holds the tensioner in position to the owners specific preference.

Aren't the bearings supposed to rotate and be free...or are they designed to just stay put and cause friction to the belt - lol I think not =] Please reply with any helpful hints that can resolve this problem of mine.:eek:

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Light003
Contender,

Did you by ant chance fix the "cling" problem. Or are you just driving on it

Light003,

Well I didn't get a chance to break it down before my last race, and during qualifiers, I noticed that the annoying sound was gone. With one more race left this year, I'm not going to break it down again until after that race. I still have no clue to where it was coming from.

[sasonrally]

Limitz, you certainly aren't off the topic.
Your problem is with the black bushings being slightly thicker than normal. Grab a nail filer and file just a little on the black bushings and your bearing will free up.

I had the same problem and there was a post on this earlier. Mine rotate freely now.

[Digit]

since holding the little piece will be kinda hard, put the extra engine washers on both sides of the bearings. this works perfectly and wont jack-up the plastic. this was mentioned about 5 pages back, so its not my trick...
|2 4 C E - O N!!

[limitz]

Sasan/Digit,

Thanks for the hints, I will certainly try them out... will keep you updated on the results :)

[Light003]

Guy's
My rear diff feels funny, how would I check if it's too loose.
I remember something like holding the rear tires and turning ______________________?

[didrace]

How do you compare it with the r40. Shall i wait for this one or is it somehow the same design. Thanks!!!http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=9250&psid=2

[sasonrally]

Light003

Check this page out and see if this help.

Rear Diff Tension (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/r40/R40-P17o.jpg)

[Light003]

Hey sasonrally,

You just killed two birds with one stone.

Thanks.
I need to start to take time with things, i overlook alot of things

[limitz]

my belt tensioner is free as a bird lol
i filed down the two plastic bushings that are on the sides of the two bearings and now they spin freely
thanks to your guys's tip

thanks again!

limitz™

[sasonrally]

I am glad these simple steps are helping ya'll out. Light003 I used to do the same, and zoom through the KITS, now I read before I do something. I had a lot of issues that could have been killed before they started.

Now I know a lot of you have had the chance to play with their R40's for quite some time, so lets here some extra tips if there are any.:cool:

[didrace]

I live in an area where there is a lot of competition between rc on road car racers. As i said to a previous post that i made, i used to have a ts4n and i won some races but that wasn't enough for me and i wanted to buy a more pro car and if possible the best 1/10 on road car. I want it to be durable and i want it to have quite a lot hop up parts. Now here is what i want you guys to tell me. Is the r40 one of the best on road cars is it the best does it need a lot of money to be the best or there are other cars that are better than it and if yes which cars. Note when i say best i don't mean is perfect but generally is it durable doeas it has a good hadling. Also can i use rubber tires for it if i buy it? Does it have good hadling without the one way? Are there a lot f parts that broke on it. If yes which parts? How do i set up the cebtax clutch?

I hope you can answere all my questions! Have a nice day!

[Light003]

Didrace, It depends on how much you want to spend on just the car. The Mugen, Serpent, Keyosho are fantastic cars maybe better than the R40, but alot more $. The R40 is a great car. It handles very well out of the box. I love it. There's not many option parts out for the car yet but soon shock towers and other stuff will come out.

The centax clutch is very easy to adjust, just loosen/tighten the adjustment nut.

[didrace]

So can the R40 become as good as the other cars if i hop it up with optional parts.

Are there any specific problems that the R40 has because i will order it from tower hobbies since there is no a dealer of HPI where i live and i don't want to order parts every now and then when i will buy it. In previous posts i saw some people saying the cvds brake as you move without hitting it on wall or anywherelse they say that Hpi did not include optinals in it so people will give alot of money after they buy it. Also there is a problem with the steering system the servosaver brakes easily.

Have a nice day!!

[Digit]

are finally out, it just looks like graphite versions of the aluminum ones though...however, it says tower A, do you think there will be other B, C, D versions, like ones that FIT under the lola bodies, are for strict racing, etc.??? i like the really little ones from kawahara that were shown on here like 6 pages ago, i cant find those anywhere though :rolleyes:

[Saboteur]

Tower now has the R40 for $289.99! Price is going down! :D

[Saboteur]

Scratch that, $264.99 @ Hobby People.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Digit
are finally out, it just looks like graphite versions of the aluminum ones though...however, it says tower A, do you think there will be other B, C, D versions, like ones that FIT under the lola bodies, are for strict racing, etc.??? i like the really little ones from kawahara that were shown on here like 6 pages ago, i cant find those anywhere though :rolleyes:

the only place to get kawahara is overseas it seems. check out the previous links it should be there.http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif good luck

[need4speed4]

hey guys. I just ordered an R40 today from thercproshop, can't wait! I currently have a sirio standard, but need something new for the upcomin season. What should I get????..... V12, NS12S3, Mugen X12NS12??? Im leanin towrds the V12 cuz its the cheapest so far, @ $200.00, where the NS12S3 is 250...(thts rediculous!) but if it's that much better than the other two engines i mentioned, then it would be worth it.... is it? Thanx.

Tom

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Scratch that, $264.99 @ Hobby People.
It's $240.00 at my LHS!!

[Saboteur]

Wow. Where?

[microrcdude]

A place at the mall called ultimate hobbies.

[Saboteur]

Oh, I've visited their website? Does anyone know if they are good to order from? Someone claimes they charged them $30 bucks for shipping or something like that for a Sportmaxx.

[sasonrally]

I ordered from them before. You have to call them to place the order 'cause when you order online, they process it sometimes at night so it is not a live order. They also do not give you a quote on the delivery until the end. Which is weird. They can tend to overprice you on the delivery charges. So becareful.

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by sasonrally
I ordered from them before. You have to call them to place the order 'cause when you order online, they process it sometimes at night so it is not a live order. They also do not give you a quote on the delivery until the end. Which is weird. They can tend to overprice you on the delivery charges. So becareful.

Yeah. Instead, I'm trying to have my mom order me the HPI .12R XS RE engine, manifold, starter box and gell cell w/charger. For the $225.99 or so its a great buy for my current onroad. Later on come spring, I'd like to invest in a new ride. :) Truthfully right now, a new car and engine will cost me the amount of cash I have now, and the amount I'd get if I sold the NEO...so that option is out for now. :(

[sasonrally]

Ultimate hobbies is pretty cheap. I got my Picco .26 from them and only cost me 159.99 then they raised the price. So when you see a deal on their site. Place the order fast. Or they will raise the price without notice.

[Saboteur]

Hey Sason, any of you guys there racing nitro sedan or offroad vehicles despite the cold? I've got the club here at my HS and gonna hold a meeting soon as to decide what we are going to run, race/bash dates, etc.

[sasonrally]

We run both beleive it or not. We run any on-roads... we have a little bit of everything. just make sure to warm up your engines slowly. you don't want any conrods beakign on you. Tune the engines for winter. don't lean out too much. Our R40's are holding out well. We just try to clean the track but pebbles seem to be our biggest enemy. The only issues we've had were ripped belts, but not a big deal, mine are still holding on. We've been blessed with decent weather so artic colds are just about making their way in. Allowing our cars to be ran well all day.

Off Topic:

For off roads, we run Savages, Mad Forces, Buggies, Stadium trucks, oh and T-Maxx's. So the morale of this. Pick your poison and distribute the time between off road and on road. You don't want to have too many MT's while your running a nice serpent, R40 etc.

[Saboteur]

Very true. I'll have my trusty neo up and running again soon, while I invest in a new steering servo for it. Kinda sux and time consuming to swap servos back and forth between vehicles. Outside the HS, the ground is REALLY SMOOTH. Its perfect for the onroads. Small debris occasionally gets on but not too much. Tell Mark Anda I said "Hi" and glad to see the club improve over the months. Really wish I had the oppertunity of running with you guys at the time; just that it was too far for me to go alone. Anyway a real car will fix that. :) I cant wait for the warm weather to run the onroads out there! Perfect starts all the time and just fun, fun, fun. Gonna look into the R40 sometime next year for a new ride. :)

[Jewettracing]

Hi all! Ok, I'm trying to derive a baseline setup, based on the specs given in the R40 assembly manual.. and since I built it to the letter from the manual, I figured this was a good place to start the 'baseline'. Anyway I am a bit thrown by the 'rebound stop' and the 'bump stop'. Using the measurments in the manual I ended up with about 7.5mm (in the rear) of what I think is 'bump stop' measurement (going by the graphic on the setup sheet) at full compression of the a-arm. Then I get .5 on both sides (rear) of what I think is 'rebound stop' with the arm all the way down. These measuerments were taken with the chassis on a flat surface using a step guage to the lower point of the lower a-arm (as in the graphics on the setup sheet).

Is this about what others are finding after assembling to the specs in the manaul? I hate to be so ****, but hell it's the baseline, and I really couldn't use Hara or Thad's setup since they have some different hardware than what is in the box, so just shooting for an 'out of the box' baseline.

Everything else I can pretty much derive (well with a little time on the setup board). I have yet to measure the toe, camber, caster to see where those ended up.. I did a search so I hope I am not reinventing the wheel here, just trying to nail that ever important baseline starting point, oh and the stuff in the manual on pg 44, just seems to balance out tweak, not really define the (front) stops. Will share front measurements when I get a bit more time.. oh and Is it safe to assume that the "rebound stop" is the same as an up-stop, and the 'bump stop' is the same as a downstop? Thanks

[microrcdude]

that is a different hobbyshop. Ultimate hobbies that is in the mall is like a train shop, but has very little rc car stuff.

[Light003]

Hello folks,
Has anybody experianced excessive play in steering?

[Digit]

yeah, i have some steering play, it seems to originate from the servo saver shafts, i had to leave the screws that hold the flanged bearings down on mine a little loose, or else binding would occur and the steering for some reason would NEVER center even with a 130oz. in. torque servo :confused: i would imagine an aluminum servo saver set would do some good in this "sloppy region", but would add weight.....anyone else have any suggestions??? this forum has been a little dead lately :o

[Light003]

I was thinking about getting the bearings for the steerings.
Btw what servo do you use?

[sasonrally]

Switching to bearings will help a lot in the play. Using standard servos can ussually cause the play as well. I had the same issue and could never get it to center. Bearings did lots of help. It also helped when using the set up boards cause you need to measure good toe and stuff.

Jewetteracing. The stock set up is pretty tight however you might want to ease on the rear camber. The ride hight for me is 7 in the back and 5 in the front. So you are pretty accurate in the building. The car sits pretty low in the front so here is where playing with the set up comes into play. The only you way you are going to feel satisfied, is to run your current set up and adjust from there. Remember to note each change. Believe me the car takes a notice when you make adjustments. so do one at a time.

[agricus]

Hi,

I am new to this thread, I just purchased my R40 and is starting to putting it together.

I know it's an overkill for me to get an R40 consider I never been to any tracks let alone race it. Everyone wants to get a ferrari but not everyone is going to drive 200mph. Same thinking...:D
But who knows besides not every RC car out there let you adjust everything.


Anyway, I just want to introduce myself I own a one Nitro Car the HPI SNR and Several Electrical RC Cars 2 Tamiya TA03s (R and F) and a HPI Pro 3.

I do have an question though in the Manual it says to use .12 to .15 engine but no where in the manual said it needs an rear exhaust. But other online resource did said rear exhaust only. Anybody try to use an Side Exhaust engine? I am thinking about the HPI .12R XS and the OS .12TR anybody tried those engine?


Thanx

[treky11]

rear exhaust is the only engine that will fit. if you try to use a side exhaust engine the header will wind up hitting the rear bulkhead.

search through this thread for lots of building tips and enjoy!

[tranced]

Originally posted by agricus
Hi,

I am new to this thread, I just purchased my R40 and is starting to putting it together.

I know it's an overkill for me to get an R40 consider I never been to any tracks let alone race it. Everyone wants to get a ferrari but not everyone is going to drive 200mph. Same thinking...:D
But who knows besides not every RC car out there let you adjust everything.


Anyway, I just want to introduce myself I own a one Nitro Car the HPI SNR and Several Electrical RC Cars 2 Tamiya TA03s (R and F) and a HPI Pro 3.

I do have an question though in the Manual it says to use .12 to .15 engine but no where in the manual said it needs an rear exhaust. But other online resource did said rear exhaust only. Anybody try to use an Side Exhaust engine? I am thinking about the HPI .12R XS and the OS .12TR anybody tried those engine?


Thanx

If you need a cheap, GREAT engine to start and hone your driving skills on, while staying relatively competative, check out the Mugen MT12. Can be found very CHEAP, and is based off the Novarossi RS12 Line. My personal experience with the engine is that it is very RELIABLE, FAST, and mildly easy to tune. Italian craftsmanship is impeccable

[jjl]

Also new to this board. Currently bashing a mtx-2 on parking lots. My question is anyone use the R40 for bashing (not racing, no time) on parking lots with rubber tires (or foams)? how is the R40 for bashing purposes? i realize the rs4 3 type ss is a car designed for parking lots, but i think the r40's design is just so much nicer. any feedback with the car on parking lots and rubber tires would be appreciated.

[Light003]

I have a MT.12 for sale

[nitrodude_1]

how do you guys live th r40 are you having any problems with it is it a fairley easy car to tune let me know and show me some pics to

[dyslexic]

ok I have to agree with tranced on the MT-12 I'm currently running it in my R40 and it's a great little mill it just keeps getting faster and faster. so far the mt-12 is keeping pace with the os-tr at least on the course I run on given more space the os my have more top end.

I mainly run my R40 in parking lots and it holding up fine so far a few scratches on the chassie but that's normal. I chuncked the hell outta the stock tires. also make sure you run with a body on after break in cause if you manage to flip the car there is very little protection. But after several flips, sideswipes and other assorted impacts the R40 is holding all of it's settings so far. One other thing to keeps an eye on is the the inner rims and the hubs as small rocks and stuff manage to get in there and wear away at the inner rim and hubs, it will also affect the cars handeling so it's something to check on periodiclly.

[nitrodude_1]

thanks dose any one have some pics and have anybody run a ntc3 and if you did is the r40 better

[tranced]

Originally posted by dyslexic
ok I have to agree with tranced on the MT-12 I'm currently running it in my R40 and it's a great little mill it just keeps getting faster and faster. so far the mt-12 is keeping pace with the os-tr at least on the course I run on given more space the os my have more top end.

I mainly run my R40 in parking lots and it holding up fine so far a few scratches on the chassie but that's normal. I chuncked the hell outta the stock tires. also make sure you run with a body on after break in cause if you manage to flip the car there is very little protection. But after several flips, sideswipes and other assorted impacts the R40 is holding all of it's settings so far. One other thing to keeps an eye on is the the inner rims and the hubs as small rocks and stuff manage to get in there and wear away at the inner rim and hubs, it will also affect the cars handeling so it's something to check on periodiclly.

The MT12 as higher top end than the OS12TR. You might want to check your tuning. The MT12 should be outgunning the 12TR.

[tranced]

Originally posted by jjl
Also new to this board. Currently bashing a mtx-2 on parking lots. My question is anyone use the R40 for bashing (not racing, no time) on parking lots with rubber tires (or foams)? how is the R40 for bashing purposes? i realize the rs4 3 type ss is a car designed for parking lots, but i think the r40's design is just so much nicer. any feedback with the car on parking lots and rubber tires would be appreciated.

I do not recommend the R40 for bashing. The belts are made of "reinforced" rubber, and strip/break/fray easily, unlike other pro kits coming with kevlar belts, etc..

If you are running on a parking lot with very LITTLE debris, then the R40 will do fine. It just does not like these debris much :(

R40 reacts to setup changes very well, noticable each time you change something, so its easy to get a good setup! Out of the box it does great anyway :)

I had an MTX-2 as well, and I would still be running it, if it wasn't for my chassis being tweaked :( Great little car

I say you keep the MTX-2 for another year or so. By then, there will be the last legs of 1/10th pro touring cars. Because the class has been developed so far, only so much can be squeezed out now. Latest cars are basically smaller 1/8th scale cars!

The R40 doesnt come with some essentials, like steering assembly bearings, alloy shocks, etc.. but for the price, there is no competition!

*cough* look at the kyosho fw-05R! *cough*

[dyslexic]

Originally posted by tranced
The MT12 as higher top end than the OS12TR. You might want to check your tuning. The MT12 should be outgunning the 12TR.

I doubt tuning is an issue as the engine is still under the gallon mark I don't really expect full performance till it hit's at least 1.5 gallons. and the os12tr i'm running against is well over 2 gallons.

[nitrodude_1]

I race every month at a track but it is about 3 hours away from me so I just drive on the road infront of me it is pretty good it is a new road there is a little rocks around there but not much. I can always clean it up. but what do you guys like better the ntc3 or the r40 and why. this is my first on road car raced off road gas long enough I decided I needed a change. I usely take my truck down to canadian tire and drive it around becasue the parking lot is new there. I need one that will do me good to and is not to hard to tune won't be braking all the time and is just plain old reliable

[dyslexic]

I've never driven the ntc3 but I know several people who have em and they are all happy with them some are still stock and others are modded to the hilt. they still tend to have their share of problems exactly what they are i'll leave to those who have em to elaborate.

as for the r40 it hasen't really been out long enough for anyone to really vouch for it's durability. as for the belts holding up to debries I shreeded my front belt whitin the first 5 tanks of fuel. I'm thinking it was a defect in the belt it's self since the rest of them are holding up fine go figure.

I run mine in a parking lot that is very smooth but has it's share of small pebbles. and the r40 is doing fine. I've run it with the stock rubber tires off of my rs4 and it handled quite well it was deffinitly a bit looser then with the foams but still very controlable even in the tighest corners. I'm thinking that with a softer compound rubber it may perform almost as well as it does on foams. only downside beings that the softer compound rubber tires wear out just about as fast as a good set of foam tires.

[nitrodude_1]

thanks I apriciate that I will let you know my final desiction by the end of the week

[nitrodude_1]

I am going for the r40 any one wana lend me some cash

[tranced]

Just wanted to stop by and show off some goodies that came in for me recently! (Still waiting for CF F&R Shock Towers..)

http://www.teamurc.com/shima/r40_options.jpg

http://www.teamurc.com/shima/r40_oneway.jpg

[shotgun67203]

Hello. I've had my R40 for a couple of months and the front diff keeps leaking oil. I have rebiult it and put in new oil, but it still leaks. Anyone know how to fix this? Also, i know that kevlar belts should last longer, anyone know where to get these? Thanks.

[limitz]

Originally posted by shotgun67203
Hello. I've had my R40 for a couple of months and the front diff keeps leaking oil. I have rebiult it and put in new oil, but it still leaks. Anyone know how to fix this? Also, i know that kevlar belts should last longer, anyone know where to get these? Thanks.

I have the same problem with the front diffs...they just slowly leak and leak... i have also tried rebuilding the diff and really tightened the screws, but the oil still manages to leak out. I'm not to worried about it though because im planning on getting the front one-way. But the stock diff IS indeed a problem to be solved. Good luck.

[shotgun67203]

Ok thanks. I'll just get the one-way with the Christmas money I'm bound to get.

[limitz]

I'm trying to shove all the wiring into that tiny battery box, but it doesn't fit at all (servos and battery wiring). Are there any other options and what are your guys configurations when it comes to running the wiring?

thanks happy holidays :)

[dyslexic]

90% of all my wires fit in the receiver box the only wire in the battery box is the lead off the battery itself.

I managed to stuff in a JR RS300 receiver in there without too much hassele a little creative grinding with my dremal gave me the extra .10mm I needed in order to close the box. so far this is the largest receiver i've come across in the last 5-6 years blasted thing is farfignuggin hugh.

[HKS]

Hey everyone, i just got an R40 and i'm in the process of breaing i the engine. My question is how do I adjust the clutch engagement point? Imean like what does tightening the nu do and loosening?

[2 speed nitro]

whats the lightest r40 out there? with engine radio, and servos....no body no fuel......thanx...

[Jayweezy]

I have read every single post and I am still torn between the R40 and the NTC3.

[fastharry]

I own both cars..So let me ask you this..

what do you intend to do with the car..(race,play?)..

[Jayweezy]

I plan to race and play, but until it warms up all i can do is race it in the LHS parking cause the track isn't even cleaned off (twigs, straw, and stuff).

[Jayweezy]

I am also trying to determine what this fix is for the NTC3.

[tunerjetta29]

For all you weight mongers out there all i can tell you is if the lightest R40 is still much heavier than the lightest MTX-3 or NTC3 but from my experience the R40 is still equal or even better. 2 reasons. 1. Thats what weight limits are for. 2. Your going to want that extra weight (which means more material) to absorb impacts and keep parts from breaking. I'd rather have a few extra grams of weight in extra thick A-arms and bulkheads than have one break and be out of a race. Just my 0.02 cents

[2 speed nitro]

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
For all you weight mongers out there all i can tell you is if the lightest R40 is still much heavier than the lightest MTX-3 or NTC3 but from my experience the R40 is still equal or even better. 2 reasons. 1. Thats what weight limits are for. 2. Your going to want that extra weight (which means more material) to absorb impacts and keep parts from breaking. I'd rather have a few extra grams of weight in extra thick A-arms and bulkheads than have one break and be out of a race. Just my 0.02 cents

good point....totally agree with you

[HKS]

Can someone please explain to me how to adjust the clutch?

[tunerjetta29]

Adjusting the clutch is a trial and error kinda thing. You decide where you want the clutch to engage. I set the clutch so i am getting as much punch coming out of the corner as possible without spinning the wheels.

The tighter you compress the spring the higher the RPM the clutch will engage. So to make the clutch engage earlier turn the adjustment nut counter-clockwise, to make the clutch engage later turn the adjustment nut clockwise.

It takes some time to get it perfect, but like i said its trial and error

[HKS]

Thanx, is there anyway I can adjust the clutch without taking the entire thing apart?

[tunerjetta29]

Unfortunately the easiest way to adjust the clutch is to remove the endbell. You can remove the endbell by just loosening the engine screws, and removing the 2-speed gears. You dont have to completely remove th engine or anything. After you do it a couple times it only takes a minute or so.

[tranced]

stick a 1.5 mm allen wrench into the tiny hole on the clutchbell. move the flywheel until you feel the allen wrench touch a hole.

rotating the flywheel clockwise with the allen wrench in the clutch adjustment nut will make the engagement point earlier (less RPMs needed to engage). rotating it counter clockwise will make the engagement point later (more RPMs needed to engage)

[tunerjetta29]

Wow, i can never manage to get my allen wrench in there, and even when i do i cant find the slot in the nut. If you can do it, do it tranced's way. But if you cant taking the endbell off only takes a minute.

[limitz]

hi - i was wondering if the clutch shoes in the 2-speed transmission is supposed to be loose enough so that it is free spinning? Or is it supposed to be pushing up tightly against the walls of the tranny? helpp

Thanks in advance,

:)

[limitz]

me again... I just installed my motor into the car with spur/pinion gears engaging eachother...but my problem and question is that the car won't roll backwards when i push it back on the floor but it rolls forward just fine...I sense that the gears are binding when i roll the car in reverse. Any ideas? helpp

Thanks :D

[tunerjetta29]

Limitz: Check the mesh on the gears. If it is too tight the gears will bind. The easiest way to get the mesh correct is to take a small piece of paper and roll it between the gears, tighten the negine screws, and then roll the piece of paper out.

Everyone: In case any of you havent noticed in the latest car action ads, GPm has released a lot of their parts for the R40 already in Hong Kong. http://www.gpmracing.com.hk/car/page/frame_main.html
go to what's new and click on Nitro R40. They have almost everything.....except the servo guard of course.....:(

[tunerjetta29]

I have been bored and was a little curious why no company has made a carbon fiber chassis for nitro. It would be very light and almost just as rigid. So i decided to make one myself.....its 4mm thick and took me about 4 hours, as you can see its already a little scuffed but it is very strong and it really seems to make the car more planted. ......oh and as you can see i also made a 4mm thick servo guard....metal would be better, but anything is better than the cheap plastic piece.

http://www.geocities.com/christianenterprises/IMG_0776.JPG

www.geocities.com/christianenterprises/IMG_0776.JPG
(you may have to paste it into your browser)

[Saboteur]

Just got an MT12 w/sg crank and THS exhaust system. I'll check an R40 come spring since prices dropped.

[josephkim]

which is the best engine for the r40? I've been looking at the novarossi ns12 s5. What is the best engine novarossi makes? AwWWWWW. I just need help finding a good engine. Price doesn't matter. Performance does.

[Saboteur]

There is no best engine for a car. It depends on what engine suits your needs. The NS12 S5 without a doubt is the fastest engine you can buy, along with the Odonnell .12 coming out and the Mugen X12. Those three are just wicked fast. They scream even if your car has a low gear ratio. Dont need to go with all that power anyway unless your on a really big track. Engines like an MT12 or MR12, Sirio .12, Picco XP12RE, RB X12 or V12 are all great RE engines for more tracks. JP also makes some good engines too. Other good engines from Novarossi are the RS12s.

[josephkim]

thanks for the reply. what is the diff between the ns and rs??? Also, when i spin my second gear, it spins freely without turning the belt. Is this normal???

[josephkim]

when does the odonnell engine come out??? Also what are the top .12 racing engine making companies?? Novarossi, odonnell, picco, os?? What else??

[Saboteur]

Most of the engines out there are Novarossi based. The NS12 is Novarossi's latest and fastest .12 engine out now. The RS12 was another .12 they made with the "highest claimed HP": 1.35hp. Pretty good engines. Picco engines are also good though not many people race them. They mainly like Novas, RBs, Mugen, or JP. As for your 2 speed, the 2nd gear kicks in when the clutch engages at a certain RPM. The Odonnell engine should be out this January I think. Its going to cost less than the NS12 but its power is going to be close, the same, or possibly faster. Not sure. The Mugen X12, is also based off the NS12. Another powerhouse. What other engines have you had experience with? All these high performance racing .12 engines, even all of the rear exhaust engines need to be broken in properly to provide maximum performance.

On most tracks, an MT12 or RB X12 is all the power you need. Its good to drive smooth and consistent. without punching it all throughout the track. The Novarossi RS12 steps up the horsepower level a bit but RPM level is about the same as the two engines I mentioned above. OS engines are pretty good. They are very reliable, however not as powerful as the other rear exhaust engines out here which are better for the big tracks. The Sirio is also a great .12 engine. For $150 its a great price and has better top end speed than a MT12. Can be a little better on low end though. What kind of track you will be racing at?

[josephkim]

Um, I'm kinda a noob with money to burn. No, just kidding. lol. Don't think of me that way. Though I do admit, i have money to burn. I am a beginner. I only have had one car before (nitro quake) but I wanted to get a good on road 1/10. Building was quite easy, but i want a GOOD engine. I don't plan to upgrade in the future. Track? I don't know. Know any good tracks in LA?

Though, you seem to know a lot. RC verteran?

[tunerjetta29]

Quite a few people run their R40's at Revelation raceway (www.revrace.com) in montclair. Or at Crystal Park in Compton....dont worry it is safe :)! For the money id go with a MT12 or X12........but if you want to go all out and be ROAR legal NS12 S3 (Same engine Hara ran to win the Nationals at Revelation)

[josephkim]

thanks for track info. Is the ns12s5 the fastest, most powerful .12 novarossi engine??? I'm thinking of the ns15s5. Would it fit? Thanks for the help.

[josephkim]

oh ya. and what s a good pipe?

[tunerjetta29]

The NS12 S5 will fit, its just not ROAR Legal (which doesnt matter to a lot of people) It is currently Novarossi's fastest .21 engine. As far as the pipe is concerned im running an RD Logics 1 piece Turbo pipe on my NS12 S3 which works great. RD Logics has great pipes at pretty reasonable prices (www.rdlogics.com).

[treky11]

I have the NS12S5 in my r40 and love it. I ran it against a lot of other r40's at the worlds and it was more powerful than any other engine there IMHO. My driving....well that's a different story, but the engine is great

[tunerjetta29]

I meant the NS12 S5 was Novarossi's fastest .12 engine :) oops!!

[KronicRacer]

anyone tryout the new adjustable rear sway bar? it better be good for 58 bucks http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=2&products_id=3619 :eek:

also heres a list of stuff i want to get
1 x HPI - R40 Light Weight Middle Shaft
1 x HPI - R40 Light Weight 2 Speed Shaft
1 x HPI - R40 Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
1 x HPI - 7075 3mm Light Super Chassis
1 x HPI - Alum Rear Brace Purple
1 x HPI - R40 Woven Graphite Rear Shock Tower A
1 x HPI - R40 Light Weight Upper Deck
1 x HPI - R40 Woven Graphite Front Shock Tower A

US$242.00 totalhttp://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[josephkim]

well i'm going to order a ns12s5 and a rd logics pipe(maybe) today. I want a super chassis. lol

[Digit]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
anyone tryout the new adjustable rear sway bar? it better be good for 58 bucks http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=2&products_id=3619 :eek:


wow, thats a kinda steep price, if money is a concern, i would wait a couple weeks more for all the integy hop ups to come out, they are high quality, and a lot cheaper than hpi stuff ??$90 chassis??

:confused: also, a quick question, does your guyses' steering plate move freely when tightened enough to not have all that slop?? [ie. when you can jiggle one wheel a bit, while the whole other side is still]
if i tighten my s. plate down a llllllitle bit too much, my servo wont center completely, it is not a servo problem either...any help is appreciated!!

[josephkim]

I've decided on the ns12 s5. Does novarossi make good pipes? Also, what are some good .12 pipe making companies?

I've been looking at the novarossi 51603 and 51604. Which one is better? Are they well suited to the ns12 s5? Also what is the best suited pipe for the ns12 s5?

[Light003]

Hey Digit
Im having the same problem. I ordered and recieved the bearings for the steering but have no time i the last month to install.

[josephkim]

which pipe? this one (http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=294)
or rdlogics high performanc pipe (http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/188.html)

[Saboteur]

Joseph- You may want to try something less powerful and cost less for engine rebuilds, even though you have a lot of $$$. Save the money for parts and stuff like that. You'll definately need them. For Revelation Raceway, my friend runs an MT12 and is in one of the pro classes. Does pretty well. Basically you'd want to work on your driving skill around the track instead of jumping to get the fastest thing out there. Also you will have to use features on your radio to adjust brake travel, steering or throttle.

[josephkim]

ya....I agree. But my dad's not willing to buy parts unless they break. And my dad's not going to buy me a new engine when i need one. What I plan to do is run the engine slowly first. I know how to tune, adjust, etc. I am a pretty good driver. I'm not that much of a noob. Well, I'm really going to practice driving. Hoping to become good. My weekends are totally free so you know what that means :D ......

Oh ya. One more quick question. What difference does two piece pipe and one piece pipe make?

[tunerjetta29]

I am running the RD Logics:
RD61211L RD Logic 1 piece high performance tuned pipe (ROAR Legal)

It seems to be the most uselful of the NS12's powerbands. The big difference between the 1 piece and the 2-piece is the coupler. With 2 piece pipes you have to replace the couper every so often whenever it breaks, and there is a higher possibility of the pipe and header becoming seperated. where as the 1 piece is held together with 3 springs and is more likely to stay together in case of an impact.

[josephkim]

thanks. I will order the logics one