HPI R40 forum

[josephkim]

glad to hear your starter box performs well! what kind is it? Mine is an xtm prebuilt starter box. does anyone have any experience this place? (http://store.yahoo.com/rcxpress/index.html) I ordered my jr xs3 radio from there and after two weeks it still hasn't come. hmmm....

[number76]

I would start worrying if I were you...:( that's a little long for a radio... and no answer at all??? hmmm not good man... you should stick to name stores: TOWER HOBBIES,etc...

I wish you good luck though...

[josephkim]

i am worrying. I'm calling on Tuesday. Would the ns15s5 be a better choice than the ns12s5? Would a .15 engine fit?

[Saboteur]

Joseph- If you want to be race legal, get a race legal engine. Basically a .12 3 port engine is legal. Some fitted with a turbo scoop on the crankshaft with a standard plug are also now legal. I'm not sure if Revraceway will let you use the NS12s5. The NS15 is outta the question. The NS12 will be all you need. A friend of mine runs one in his NTC3. I'll ask him about what pipe should you go with and so on. Before he's been running an MT12 like me and managed to get into the pro class...even beating another MT12 user with a .12cvr in a practice race. Just goes to show driving skill/car setup matters most over power. BTW my SB, is the Ofna true-start Universal. I like it. Dont need the 12v yet. My 2400's are all I need. :)

[josephkim]

alright. I'm going to order a ns12 s3. I would prefer the ns12 s5 or mabe even a ns15 s5 but, i guess i'll have to stick to legal. Alright, thanks for the help.

[josephkim]

I'm going to order the ns12s3. I'm trying to decide where to buy from. towerhobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBD6&P=7) or here (http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_38_387_508&products_id=5116)

it is much cheaper than hobbies but hobbies is a well known reliable site. hmmm.... Also, how come at dinball it says the glow head is turbo. isn't it sa pose to be standard plugs not turbo?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by josephkim
I'm going to order the ns12s3. I'm trying to decide where to buy from. towerhobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBD6&P=7) or here (http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_38_387_508&products_id=5116)

it is much cheaper than hobbies but hobbies is a well known reliable site. hmmm.... Also, how come at dinball it says the glow head is turbo. isn't it sa pose to be standard plugs not turbo?

I would'nt order from dinball....I ordered some servo mounts for the r40 from them a week and a half ago........have not seen them.and they have not answered my email's....

I'm giving them another few days before they get their PAYPAL cancelled and neg reviews given on EBAY....I'll keep you posted..

[HKS]

Is it okay to use thread lock on the clutch adjustment nut? I had had to do this because everytime i tied to start the engine the nut would back all the way out and jam th bottom of the clutch bell on the chassis.

[number76]

TOWER is a little more, but trust me, for the hassle all the other mail order stores give you, its well worth it... stick with Tower man you won't be disappointed...
Ryan

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
I'm giving them another few days before they get their PAYPAL cancelled and neg reviews given on EBAY....I'll keep you posted..

FastHarry, long time no talk.........did you actually get the Serpent 710 now? Or you are still checking out rctech and see that is the car you want or not..........?
After a long thinking, I think I decided to NOT getting the 710 and will get the R40 instead (I sold my NTC3 cause I think I would like to get back to belt)......the 710, I am sure it is a better car then R40, but I don't see that is ALOT better, not ot mentions, only if you dialed the 710 RIGHT and see the performance....and all those new features of the 710.....just a little too much to me, not that I don't want to figure them all out, I just want to have fun, and not to be figureing everything at the track while everyone are having fun...

Tell me the R40 is a good car, not to mention....HPI challenge, cheap parts, up to par design (unlike RS4 3 or those old RS4)....

Also, glad to hear that DINBALL is bad, I saw them on ebay, and they seems to get every carbon fiber option for the R40......have you try rcmodel.com.hk? They are also from HK, might be $1-2 more, but I receive everything from them within 7 days....and I ordered from them more then 20 times from foam tires to 3PK radios with modules and receivers....

[josephkim]

woot! I ordered a ns12s3 from tower hobbies. and a LEGAL rd logics one piece turbo pipe. YAY!

[Digit]

hmm, i had an ok DINBALL experience, i ordered like 150$ of aluminum and cf parts for my mtx-3 and recieved it in like 8 days, but i figured it was since they are also in H.K....i would have ordered from somewhere else if i could, but there prices were on avg. like $10 less than anywhere :o

hey anyone, did you ever investigate that problem light003 and i were having with the steering plate about a page ago? thanks

[josephkim]

Dang, tower hobbies. is fast. The engine already came. Thats one day shipping when i said ground shipping! DANG!!! Oh well, thats all the better for me. I was expecting it in mabe... two or three days but ONE!!!! Also, my radio still hasn't come, which is preventing me from driving the car. There's something wrong with the company I ordered from. When I try to call they don't pickup. HMMMM.......

[limitz]

Josephkim- I must say good choice on the engine!
I have the NS5 and just installed it into the R40 and it has an RB Concept's X12 Turbo coupled to it.

For all you folks, I have a question...

How can I adjust the motor in the chassis so I can access the low speed needle and the idle screw without any interference? It seems like I can't rotate the carb. without blocking the path of the idle screw and vise versa with the low-speed... ANY suggestions or thoughts ?

:)

[tunerjetta29]

Dinball only uses 1 type of shipping wich is estimated 7-14 days from processing to delivery. It took 13 days for me to get my parts (im in So. Cal), but i am very happy with them. Just be more careful when ordering out of the country that you look at the estimated shipping time.

[tunerjetta29]

Dinball only uses 1 type of shipping which is estimated 7-14 days from processing to delivery. It took 13 days for me to get my parts (im in So. Cal), but i am very happy with them. Just be more careful when ordering out of the country that you look at the estimated shipping time.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by limitz
For all you folks, I have a question...

How can I adjust the motor in the chassis so I can access the low speed needle and the idle screw without any interference? It seems like I can't rotate the carb. without blocking the path of the idle screw and vise versa with the low-speed... ANY suggestions or thoughts ?

:)

Idle needle........it is at the back, no matter how you turn your carb, you should be able to turn that needle....

Your low end needle........that is a hard one, however, it is not really the problem of the needle location, what you need is a needle adjustment screw driver........you can get that from HUDY, or you can get the cheap one from towers........basicly, it is a long but narrow/skinny flat head screw driver so you can tilt the screwdriver and adjust the needle screw in angles.....

I don't think there is a better way to adjust the low-end needle on R40, but like Serpent, when they have the same issue on the Impulse, they re-designed their gas tank, and there is a cut out are of the new tank so you can have your screwdriver slide in to adjust the low-end needle in a much lower angle.

The screw driver that I have is called "DuraTrax Engine Tuning Screwdriver 3.2x120mm " from Tower....$4.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSL31&P=7

[josephkim]

YAY!! My RD Logics 1 piece turbo legal pipe came today. Wow. Shipping is fast. Oh ya about my radio. I called like three times and they finally picked up. They said the radio was on backorder. But on the website it says it is in stock. Anyways, i canceled my order. I really don't trust that place!

[carlos_rico]

hello everyone. finally I bought a mtx 3 but i am not happy whit the engine that came whit the kit so i decided to buy an hpi r40 because it is cheaper than the mtx 3 and im going to buy to it the best engine but i dont know which is the best engine.
I leave in colombia(2600 meters from the sea) and i need a shop where i can found all the r40 kit on line.

thanx

[josephkim]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
and im going to buy to it the best engine but i dont know which is the best engine.

LOL. This looks really familiar. Almost exactly like what I wrote. And i will tell the same responses other people gave me. There is no BEST engine for any car. Get an engine what suits you best. Also, how much are you willing to spend? Also, you do under stand you could have just switched the engine in the mtx-3, right? Just look a couple pages back. I asked the exact same question. Oh ya, look on page 29

[Saboteur]

Good call Joseph. Well right now I think I can pull off selling the sfgp with engine and accessories with the stock tl01 for about $220 or so. Still debating on whether I should get the R40 or not. I'm only bashing around a nice flat triangular shape area for our H.S. track, not at a real one. Cones and barriers will be set up though to make it more challenging. I wont be able to hit up on a track till summer maybe, but it will be most likely a one time visit as transportation is costly. It would be nice to have a really great sedan. I already own a stadium truck...ready to travel to Xtreme R/C to race it.

[josephkim]

hey, saboteur, I thought you already owned an R40!!!:confused: LOL. Oh well. Also, any reccommendations on where to buy my jr xs3?

[Saboteur]

I wish I had one. :) Anyway try stormer hobbies. They seem pretty good.

[josephkim]

I'm attached to rc. I'm thinking of getting the new serpent 710 or the 950r...

[josephkim]

I just recieved my hudy ultimate set up system. I LOVE it. Very accurate. What settings do you guys run(caster, toe in, camber,etc.).

[josephkim]

My jr xs3 arrived today!

[Saboteur]

Great! Well you're almost ready. As for me, I still have my current gear to run. It hasnt failed me and still lead me to victory for the races I've had. I'd stay with the R40. Dont go for the serpent 710. You will need your $$ for parts and upgrades on the R40. The 950 is a no no. Those 8th scale onroads are BLISTERING fast. I wouldnt recommend anyone get one after they havent had experience with a nitro sedan powered by a hot .12 engine or a 1/10th Nitro Onroad.

[josephkim]

OK. Well, i guess i'll wait a year or two before i get the 950r. Whats wrong with the 710? My dad is thinking of maybe getting a car to race against me with. He was thinking of the 710. Arn't the r40 and 710 Kinda similar? Also, does the r40 come with a wire to fit my exhaust pipe to?

[josephkim]

On my novarossi, the slide carb throtle control thingy touchs and rubbs the fuel tank when I try to open the throttle. It can only open like 1/8 throttle and getts stuch on the tank. Help?

[Light003]

use a dremmel and file the part of the tank(extra plastic ) thats hitting the carb down.

[josephkim]

ok. but won't it weaken or make a hole in the tank?

[tunerjetta29]

Hey guys, i decided to sell my R40 since im racing 1/8 scales now, it has lots of hop0ups and lots of spares. Here's a link if anyones interested: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=155693

tunerjetta29@hotmail.com

[Saboteur]

Seems like everyone is going for 8th scales. From stadium trucks to 8th scale buggies, now sedans to 8th onroad. :)

[limitz]

How much spacing does the clutch-bell need away from the clutch shoe? And how do I adjust the spacing that I need?

Also is it O.k.? for the clutch-bell to slightly graze the clutch-shoe when I spin the clutch-bell with my fingers? Or does it have to be so that it isn't rubbing the clutch shoe at ALL? Please help with any thoughts and experience.

thanks in advance :)

[Light003]

Take the tank out and you will see that there is extra plastic that is not part of the tank. I will not damage the tank.

Limits ther should be a .03-.05 spacing on the clutch bell.

[josephkim]

I have dremeled a lot and it still hits. Is there a way to turn the pivot ball thing on the carb so it does not interfear?

[sasonrally]

Limitz:
Have you tested your current clutch set up?
This part I had some difficulties with back when I first got the car.
The Kit comes with two sets of spacers. Two Silver and Two copper. the silver sets are both .5 mm and the copper are .2mm

SO basically you have to use a combination of those or one of them at a time. The trick is to be able to have the set screw tightened all the way in and have the clutch bell move freely but not very lose. Basically you want play with small rubbing on the shoe. When you have tighten all down, make sure the clutch bell does not move back and forth that much. Again maybe .5 mm movement only from back to front etc. Also make sure the spring adjustment nut is about .5 mm tightened or one thread showing. This can be adjusted without taking anything apart so leave this for last.

My set up right now has one silver spacer only and I am still trying to find the sweet spot by adjusting the spring. Due to the cold weather I have not been able to get bak to the set up but it is almost perfect.

The only way to get it right is to take it one step at a time and try one spacer, then two, then one of each to see which one produces the less friction yet the less play.

If you have too much play, the engine will rev too much before taking off, hence giving you slow take offs. Too tight and you can ruin the clutch shoe. It also depends on the engine you have. I have the OS .12TR. You might have another engine therefore needing different settings for the spacers

others should throw in their two cents.

[HKS]

josephkim: If your talking about the part of the carb. with the low end needle then yes, there is a way to rotate it. On the the opposite side of the is a hole. YOu can stick an allen key in it, loosen the allen screw, rotate the entire thing so that it will work and then re-tighten the allen.....hope this helps.

[josephkim]

wait...where is the allen located?

[josephkim]

never mind i found it. that did the trick. Now, is there like a websited i can find help on clutch. How can i adjust how early the clutch engages?

[tunerjetta29]

If you look at the engine front the front, tightening the clutch nut (turning it clockwise) will make the clutch engage later, if you turn it counter-clockwise it will make the clutch engage earlier. (The tighter the spring is compressed the later the clutch engages.

By the way if anyones interested in my Tricked out R40 its now on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3172229010

[josephkim]

how can i access the clutch adjustment?

[tunerjetta29]

There is a small hole in the clutchbell, you can stick a very small allen wrench into (You must also get it into the groove of the clutch nut) to adjust it. The other option is removing the clutchbell.

[limitz]

Hi-I recently installed the servo into an HPI R40 car for the throttle and break linkage. The throttle has a spring and collar at one end and then only a collar at the other. The servo and servo horn adjustments are set at neutral position; while the engine idle needle is set all the way closed with 1mm opening. What happens is when i switch on the transmitter and receiver the servo makes a buzzing type of noise as if the servo is fighting the linkage for a certain position against the spring and collar. I think if this buzzing keeps up it will drain the receiver battery much faster than it would with regular use. Is it binding? How can I resolve this problem of mine? Anyone with similar experiences?

Oh, yeah and if it helps these are the electronics I am using.

Futaba Digital Servos: S9451 (Throttle/Steering)

Tx/Rx: Futaba 3PK/PCM




Thanks in advance

[tunerjetta29]

Sometimes servos buzz for no apparent reason, especially Hitec servos. Im not sure exactly why.....it is like they are recieving a small amount of power from the reciever , just not enough to actually move. It doesnt seem to drain the battery any faster, it is just a little annoying.

Just make sure the servo isn't working to keep the car at idle. If it is having to compress the spring a good bit, then that is probably the reason for the noise. A good way to take some stress off the servo in its neutral position is to install a throttle return spring. That way the servo doesnt have to "work" to keep the carb closed.

[limitz]

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
Sometimes servos buzz for no apparent reason, especially Hitec servos. Im not sure exactly why.....it is like they are recieving a small amount of power from the reciever , just not enough to actually move. It doesnt seem to drain the battery any faster, it is just a little annoying.

Just make sure the servo isn't working to keep the car at idle. If it is having to compress the spring a good bit, then that is probably the reason for the noise. A good way to take some stress off the servo in its neutral position is to install a throttle return spring. That way the servo doesnt have to "work" to keep the carb closed.

but it's a slide carb not rotary. how do u get a return spring to work on a slide carb?

[tunerjetta29]

You hook one end to the end that the linkage hooks too (around the metal piece with the ball end), and find a fixed point opposite that to hook the other end too. Thats it.

[Light003]

Hey Limitz,
Did you figure out the steering problem

[sasonrally]

Here are some links to clutch tuning tips.

Trinity Tech (http://teamtrinity.com/tips/Centaxhowto.asp)

And another
RCTek (http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html)

And I know some of you had mentioned troubles with their steering not returning to dead center. My fix was to:

Losen the screws that hold the Ackerman to the turnbuckles.
Losen the screws that hold the cover plate. There are four screws I turned them all one turn loser than normal. It won't cause flex to your car but overtightening causes your steering to be too tight.

Hope it helps.

[limitz]

Originally posted by Light003
Hey Limitz,
Did you figure out the steering problem

Light003 - nah, didn't resolve the prob. still working on it. I will have to get me a throttle return spring and see if that works out, but do you have any other ideas?
Here's the feedback I got from Futaba about my situation...

Dear Valued Customer:

Thank you for your Email.

In your setup, the spring will always oppose the servo. This means that the servo will "try" to move against the spring, and will buzz as long as it's working against the spring. You can't avoid it.

The only way to stop the servo from opposing the spring and buzzing would be to remove the spring.


Sincerely,

Futaba Service Center USA
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
USA

Me again. I kinda don't want to have to eliminate the throttle spring because it serves a purpose. I mean I do have the EPA feature on the 3PK, but I don't know what else to do to get rid of that ANNOYING buzzing noise! :rolleyes:

[limitz]

Originally posted by sasonrally
Here are some links to clutch tuning tips.

Trinity Tech (http://teamtrinity.com/tips/Centaxhowto.asp)

And another
RCTek (http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html)

And I know some of you had mentioned troubles with their steering not returning to dead center. My fix was to:

Losen the screws that hold the Ackerman to the turnbuckles.
Losen the screws that hold the cover plate. There are four screws I turned them all one turn loser than normal. It won't cause flex to your car but overtightening causes your steering to be too tight.

Hope it helps.

yeah, i had that problem too until I loosened up the screws that hold down the flanged bearings and goes through the steering plate just enough so there isn't any play but still loose to lessen the binding. I also bought the steering upgrade set of bearings! err don't know why HPI didn't include them in the first place...kinda weird

[josephkim]

my reciever won't fit in the box. Is there a way I can enlarge the box? Dremel?

[sasonrally]

Limitz:

That was kind of stupid for them not to send the KIT with bearings. It is all part of the making money process. I ain't mad at them though. I bought the bearings, and made the proper adjustments to get free steering. Now to wait for the snow to melt and then i can begin to test some set ups for the racing season.

JosephKim

The receiver box is rather small and only certain Rx's will fit. You might just have to get creative and do some zip tying, or just stuff the box. I had the same problem and decided just to go buy a new reciever that fit the measurements stated in the instructions manual. You might also want to make an extra anttenna hole on the cover so that if you have large receivers, the antenna does not get pinched while you stuff it all in.

[limitz]

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
If you look at the engine front the front, tightening the clutch nut (turning it clockwise) will make the clutch engage later, if you turn it counter-clockwise it will make the clutch engage earlier. (The tighter the spring is compressed the later the clutch engages.

By the way if anyones interested in my Tricked out R40 its now on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3172229010

Hey nice checked it out on eBay too bad your selling it~
I too haven't run my car yet and I've had it for about 2 months now; still working on it. If you don't mind I have a few quick question about your servos and the linkage on your car. Are they digital servos? Also have you installed the throttle/brake linkage like the manual instructed? Does the throttle servo make a buzzing or chattering noise when you turn on your transmitter and receiver? If no, then how did you set it up, because mine makes a buzzing noise as it's holding it in idle and in the neutral position. I will really appreciate your input. :) I don't know if the buzzing is normal for digital.

[tunerjetta29]

Yeah i dont want to sell it, but i cant afford to keep it.

About your question, i have the linkages set up exactly how the instructions tell you except i used a metal servo horn and ran screws all the way through the linkage mounts with a lock nut on the opposite side (you can probably see in the pics). The servo is not digital, its high speed, but it still makes a buzzing sound when it is sitting still and having to work. When it is buzzing it is either having to compress the spring on the linkage, or pulling the brakes. I have had servos that buzzed when they were under no load.....it was almost like they were recieving just a little power, but not enough to move. I believe the noise is normal, but if i were you id e-mail the manufacturer and ask.

[josephkim]

well, there was a reason why i bought a sythninyzable reciever and radio so i'm not switching the reciever. hmmm...

[need4speed4]

Hey my brand new R40 is for sale on ebay. it has lots of extras, includin kawahara graphite parts, lighteight 2speed shaft, full ball bearing steering upgrade, new sirio, brand new rd logic 1 peice "turbo" roar leagal pipe, new associated starter box, 2 7.2 volt starter box batteries, 2 12 volt gel cell starter box batteries, a proline accord boy(pre-ct and decalled), large air filter, associated red and yellow springs, hpi black springs, associated 60 and 40 weight shock oils, airtronics throttle and steering servos, and never used foams. This has never been driven.. as you can see when u you look at the pics on ebay.. PLEASE L@@K!!
thanks: Tom

[need4speed4]

o yah.. here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3172479130&category=44015

[josephkim]

why does it say you were banned?

[tunerjetta29]

I think he was banned for placing ad's for his R40 all over the forum (on almost every sub-forum).

[josephkim]

lol

[Digit]

josphkim: that reciever does fit in that tiny box...i have it. just make sure u put those pieces of fuel tubing on those post thingy also, make sure the wires arent getting smashed anywhere since the small fit as mentioned earlier

[josephkim]

fuel tube thingy?

[Digit]

little pieces of fuel tubing on the posts for the reciever box like it says in the manual

[agricus]

Hi all,

I was wondering if anybody had tried to use the GPM Titanium Front Pully Shaft?

I recently purchased one but one of the hole is about 2mm closer to the end of the shaft then the orginal. therefore it wont fit

GPM (#THR4071) ***. Pulley Sha. F/Front Gear Box For R40

[josephkim]

Originally posted by Digit
little pieces of fuel tubing on the posts for the reciever box like it says in the manual

I thought it said to use o rings.

[KronicRacer]

ofna aluminum antenna holders 10140 (blue) 10141 (red) 10142 (silver)

http://www.ofna.com/images/ACC-ant-10140-BIG.jpg

as you can see it comes with a round head screw to fasten it down well that screw has to be replaced with a flat head that way everything is flush with the top of the reciver box

[KronicRacer]

when its all said and done it should look like this

[limitz]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
when its all said and done it should look like this

i have a question: does the antenna wire of the reciever go into the antenna tube and out of the top end of it; or do you have to spiral the wire around the tube then shrink wrap it?

[limitz]

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a Rear Graphite Shock Tower A for the R40 from a trusted site in the U.S. or even Internationally?

Also anyone know how I would be able to convert the R40 so I can put a Lola body on it?

Shpanks~ :D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by limitz
i have a question: does the antenna wire of the reciever go into the antenna tube and out of the top end of it; or do you have to spiral the wire around the tube then shrink wrap it?

yea it still goes up the tube and out the top end no shrink wrapping on this setup:)

[tunerjetta29]

Integy sells a body post set for the T-maxx i used to make a lola body mount. I sold the car with the mount, but you can see it here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3172229010&category=44015&sspagename=STRK%3AMESSO%3AIT&rd=1

It was bent from an upside down trip into the wall at the end of the straight (i got rear ended by an 1/8 scale and it flipped me at full speed). I reinforced it with some CF to keep it from happening again, but it was a very wide/solid mount, and it worked perfect.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by limitz
Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a Rear Graphite Shock Tower A for the R40 from a trusted site in the U.S. or even Internationally?

Also anyone know how I would be able to convert the R40 so I can put a Lola body on it?

Shpanks~ :D

You can try the HPI one, they made carbon shock towers for both front and rear........ if not, try this place from HONG KONG named Rcmodel...

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/

They have quite a lot of aftermarket stuff for R40, from 3Racing to Kawahara and HPI itself of course......their price with shipping is actually cheaper then the HPI price in state, so the more you buy, the less you pay......

HOWEVER, I heard plenty of negative feedback from places like Dinball or RcMart (also from HK).......not that they cheated your money, they just don't like to email you if there is problem or take forever to send your parts..........but I ordered more then 30 times from this place........never ever had a problem, if there is a problem, at least they email me or answer my email, so I rather pay extra .25 (yes, they are a hair more then the other HK site) and get my stuff on time.

For R40 aftermarket parts, go to here........

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=R40&categories_id=20&manufacturers_id=

Good luck

P.S...........if you see the message above, the one who get the GPM titanium shaft...........again, one piece of advise........STAY AWAY FROM THE BRAND "GPM"............they are all eye candies, looks good, but never work, their pulleys, rarely a perfect circle....and their TITANIUM.........RIGHT, 5% Titanium mix with 95% plastic and water mixture...............Bring your existing shaft and compare the hole position, if the hole does not match your existing shaft, most likely they were probably using win 3.1 to MILL that special Titanium shaft.......and that is very typical for GPM and you can see Rcmodel and most HK dealer DOES NOT carry GPM parts.

[KronicRacer]

sup rookie long time

so true, http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/ theyre the best from overseas. i just placed a 217.00 order sunday night. 16 bux shipping ems 2-5days not too shabby. one thing though they didnt seem to have the shock towers in stock at the moment. :(

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
sup rookie long time

so true, http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/ theyre the best from overseas. i just placed a 217.00 order sunday night. 16 bux shipping ems 2-5days not too shabby. one thing though they didnt seem to have the shock towers in stock at the moment. :(

Sup Kronic.........long time, yeah, a lot have change, no more NTC3, and the R40 (both are still in the box) and 710 are coming this year, ONLY if my new born will let me get out of the house and play......otherwise, I can only set the car up 1000 times without running it........LOL

So what did you do on your R40? On HPI japan, there are quite a lot of light weight drive train parts that really worth the price.......and god knows when USA will got them, so ordering from RCmodel is a no brainer for me, on top of that, I think they are still cheaper then state even with the 2-5 days EMS.

I still remember when I ordered my 3PK from them, took only 2 days (to ship from HK to USA) and they used some delivery service that delivered my 3PK on THANKSGIVING day, which I can't believe there are actually ppl working on that specific day.

P.S. when you put your order on the basket, when you see the item is RED in color, that means they are back order.........so you can decide you still want to buy or wait until they are in stock, no more confusion like others will tell you they are in back order 1 month later and you paid them already.

[Rookie Solara]

If you guys want to order from USA dealer, try this place, at first, I thought they sell only MICRO stuff, and now, they sell all other cars like 200mm and 1.8th.......

Beside, I think that is the cheapest R40 I had ever seen...

They ahve all the carbon fiber options on the R40 from Kawahara, and their price are not too bad....

http://66.70.235.59/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=M&Category_Code=r40_up

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Sup Kronic.........long time, yeah, a lot have change, no more NTC3, and the R40 (both are still in the box) and 710 are coming this year, ONLY if my new born will let me get out of the house and play......otherwise, I can only set the car up 1000 times without running it........LOL

So what did you do on your R40? On HPI japan, there are quite a lot of light weight drive train parts that really worth the price.......and god knows when USA will got them, so ordering from RCmodel is a no brainer for me, on top of that, I think they are still cheaper then state even with the 2-5 days EMS.

I still remember when I ordered my 3PK from them, took only 2 days (to ship from HK to USA) and they used some delivery service that delivered my 3PK on THANKSGIVING day, which I can't believe there are actually ppl working on that specific day.

P.S. when you put your order on the basket, when you see the item is RED in color, that means they are back order.........so you can decide you still want to buy or wait until they are in stock, no more confusion like others will tell you they are in back order 1 month later and you paid them already.

so far ive been running stock. and rcmodel finally has the shock towers in again. i placed my order for them today as soon as i saw they were in stock:D now i have 2 orders im waiting for. am gonna use the grease in the diff like you suggested the other day. better than waiting to get the front one way at this point. also congrats on the new born. :cool:

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Beside, I think that is the cheapest R40 I had ever seen...

They ahve all the carbon fiber options on the R40 from Kawahara, and their price are not too bad....

http://66.70.235.59/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=M&Category_Code=r40_up

Rookie,

So when are you going to defect to the R40 side?

[tunerjetta29]

Hey, for any of you guys considering ditching your R40 like i did, seriosly consider the Trinity/ Team Magic G4 its an awesome car and it handles like a dream. I have a few friends at the track that used to run R40's as well, most of them went Mugen or with the V-One- RR, but i love my G4.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
Hey, for any of you guys considering ditching your R40 like i did, seriosly consider the Trinity/ Team Magic G4 its an awesome car and it handles like a dream. I have a few friends at the track that used to run R40's as well, most of them went Mugen or with the V-One- RR, but i love my G4.

Hmm.....looks very much like the R40...........but R40 and G4 components look very much like Serpent.......Chevy VS Ford VS Dodge...........and at $499.00........Ouch!!!!

[tunerjetta29]

Thats odd, i got mine for 300 shipped, NIB. And since you havent owned and raced both, i'd expect you to understand and respect my suggestion for anyone looking to switch cars.

As for the....they all look the same..... you arent looking close enough......im not seeing side braces/laid down throttle servo/ 30% smaller clutch and 2-speed, or many other features on the competitors cars. All i can say is it is much lighter, and out of the box the car is hooked up. I am just making a suggestion, im not trying to force the car on anyone...just tossing it out there for anyone considering the same move i did.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by tunerjetta29
Thats odd, i got mine for 300 shipped, NIB. And since you havent owned and raced both, i'd expect you to understand and respect my suggestion for anyone looking to switch cars.

As for the....they all look the same..... you arent looking close enough......im not seeing side braces/laid down throttle servo/ 30% smaller clutch and 2-speed, or many other features on the competitors cars. All i can say is it is much lighter, and out of the box the car is hooked up. I am just making a suggestion, im not trying to force the car on anyone...just tossing it out there for anyone considering the same move i did.

Reeeeeelaaaax.......I'm not downing the product........if I was not the least bit interested I would have never looked............on top of that just bought my second house so..............money and time is at a premium..............so $ is what I look at first.......on the first page of the thread somebody spelled out the list price........on top of that I don't know anybody around here running that car it's either HPI, TC3 or Serpent.......

[QuickSilver1024]

Can anyone tell me what the instruction manual is missing?
Ive already built the car, but I might have missed somethings (its my first time building).

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Rookie,

So when are you going to defect to the R40 side?

Very soon, actually, I do have the R40, just still sealed in a box (X'mas present from wife).......then of course my 710...(sealed in a box too....)

About G4 or MTX3........they are all the same, and you forgot about the Serpent 710 too.................
The way I drive and tune RC car, I think R40 is good enough for me to race against those G4 or MTX or 710.....at the end, it is not really 100% the car, it is the skill, the setting, the choice of tires and.....................THE LUCK to win the race.

The reason I pick R40....like Rkmori.........house, kid, expens......all money, better pick the lowest cost RC cars with good parts support locally to run........

Of course, if I am dame rich enough....710/G4/MTX3 are my choices...but to get parts for these beast.....it is not really the money thing, it is actually impossible to get parts, especially G4 and MTX3.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by QuickSilver1024
Can anyone tell me what the instruction manual is missing?
Ive already built the car, but I might have missed somethings (its my first time building).

Not sure what you are speaking about I must have missed that portion of the thread but mine went together flawlessly.......there was a few detail that were not addressed during the build of the kit. other than that if you procede with attention to detail you should have NPs.

[nitro13]

well i finaly convinced my parents to get a r40 instead of a savage ss

at first they didnt want me to get the r40 because it had no engine(it was my money).

i got the kit put together in 14 hours.the kit went together very well.the instructions were very good witch help since this was my first kit.time to get a engine now.wish i had a camera to post a pic.

nitro13:D ,

[Saboteur]

Again, just want to know what do you guys (the ones who still own and dont plan to sell their r40) think of the R40. My LHS has it 5 bucks less than the NTC3. I'm not gonna worry about that nonsense of shaft being better than belt (because its not) since debris getting stuck in a belt car isnt that often...for me anyway. Is the weight really an issue on an R40? Whats the weight for the NTC3 like compared to the R40? The NTC3 sounds ok however I won't be able to use my THS pipe...so thats gonna be $50 down the drain. I also have my lovely MT12 engine. Just gonna use my stock BMW body from my NEO TNT, tear down the Megatech/NEO decals and put on some HPI's. Either that or I may get a new body...it all depends of how much I'll have to spend or so because I still need to save some $$ in my savings box. Last time I didnt have anything since I spent some of the MT12, THS pipe, and other gear, then I bought the starter box. Being without cash feels VERY weird and depressing like. :confused: Anyway, I'm waiting my next big check so I may get a new ride next week...just waiting for my friend to see if he will buy my current nitro sedan.

[Saboteur]

Nothing fancy...well maybe the layout but this is where our RC club will be running. Its all FLAT asphalt. Very few or no debris is on the ground. Just waiting for more snow to melt so we can drive all around it. Might just bust out the offroads till it does.

[Saboteur]

Well I think I'm just gonna try and go for the R40. Seems like the people who had major doubts about it have changed their mind after buying it. Anyway is it mandatory to use a flat pack? I'm assuming a standard RX pack wont work judging by the chassis layout, so I guess I'll have to spend a little xtra $$ to get one with charger. Now my spare NIMH AAs can be used for my radio or leave them in my Sport NT. :) Also are their any building tips?

[Kenny T]

The R40 requires a flat pack since it is mounted under the tank in a box.

I hated the R40 when it came out but hey I ended up getting one. I would have liked to keep it (and race it) but I had to sell it because I didn't have enough moola to get it running. It would have taken me about 6-12 months to save up enough cash for a rear exhaust engine(12TR)(300+), a few nice servos(80 each) and a reciever(141 :mad: ). I really would have liked to keep it.

I found it a pain in the a** to build, instructions hadn't had the faults/mistakes ironed out. I found some steps hard to understand or I'm really stupid. It took me 3 full days (- meals) to build it I think.

[QuickSilver1024]

i went to my LHS today, and the guy said theres something binding my rear. He says there shouldnt be any squeaky sound when you turn the wheels, which there are. Do you think it is the problem of not adding any silic. oil to the rear diffs? In the manual it doesnt say to. It just says to add grease. Should I add oil to it? And which kind?

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by Kenny T
The R40 requires a flat pack since it is mounted under the tank in a box.

I hated the R40 when it came out but hey I ended up getting one. I would have liked to keep it (and race it) but I had to sell it because I didn't have enough moola to get it running. It would have taken me about 6-12 months to save up enough cash for a rear exhaust engine(12TR)(300+), a few nice servos(80 each) and a reciever(141 :mad: ). I really would have liked to keep it.

I found it a pain in the a** to build, instructions hadn't had the faults/mistakes ironed out. I found some steps hard to understand or I'm really stupid. It took me 3 full days (- meals) to build it I think.

Yeah a few people I remember sold their since they couldnt get it ready to race. As far as the building experience I've heard, it seems the manual must really suck. Ah well my LHS sold the last R40 and since its electric season anyway, not many nitros are in stock. Still lusting away for that 8th scale buggy. :D

[Kenny T]

I think a 1/8th buggy is going to be my next RC too.

[mavrickhunter]

Quicksilver: I dont think the noise is coming out of your giifs, but Im not hearing it so maybe. Anyway if you want to take your diff apart to add oil go right ahead. Just make sure you clean the grease out completely. If you have a one way bearing up front you can use 50k, or 30k if you dont. Also you can do a spider diff mod once you have it all apart.

[rodrigo1508]

Also you can do a spider diff mod once you have it all apart.

How do you do that I was planning on using the front diff bevels since I got the front one way but what do I do about the shafts? where can I get them or do I have to mod with dremel?

[sasonrally]

You can use the same 4 spider mod as the savage.

Use these Shafts Kyosho Beveled Shafts KYOC2335 (http://store.savagess.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_27&products_id=122&osCsid=e54c224aa16f99fe48fc6fa01113486c)

If you need extra Bevel gears (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLD4&P=7)
to get them from somewhere else the part number is HPI86032

[mavrickhunter]

Yes use those shafts, but you dont need to buy any gears. Use the gears from your front diff. Remember clean super clean have your stuff clean.

[mavrickhunter]

save some money, you can use these gears too. They are the ones I used.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWG8&P=0

[QuickSilver1024]

Originally posted by mavrickhunter
Quicksilver: I dont think the noise is coming out of your giifs, but Im not hearing it so maybe. Anyway if you want to take your diff apart to add oil go right ahead. Just make sure you clean the grease out completely. If you have a one way bearing up front you can use 50k, or 30k if you dont. Also you can do a spider diff mod once you have it all apart.

Well, when i turn the gears inside the diff i could hear a grinding sound. Its the sound of the gears rubbing against each other. When i took it apart, i noticed there wasnt alot of grease on it :confused: Alot of it has dissappeared. There were some ppl before me that had the same problem. They added the silicon oil to the back to counter this problem. I was given 50000# and 100000# silicon oil. Which one should i use?

And about that spider diff mod thing, what exactly is it? :confused:

[mavrickhunter]

The grease didnt dissappeared it just moved it to the crannys. Clean out all the grease and use 50k oil

[rodrigo1508]

The spider mod is just that you add 2 more bevels to the diff making it "harder" this is good when you have a front one way.
I have just ordered the kyosho shafts. and I have just received my super shocks, LW upper deck LW chassis CF front and rear shock tower, handle post, CF Low Stand Plate w/Mid. Belt Tens, CF steering plate and ball bearings for steering

[QuickSilver1024]

ah thanx

[mbx5]

best place to buy R40?

tower's price is $ 245:D
anybody know anywhere else?

[mbx5]

Hey guys, I am thinking to get a R40 what's the weak side of this car that I need to known of??????

[rodrigo1508]

It is supposed to have plastic parts too soft , I do feel them soft but had no problem with that, other "problem " is the weight it is a little on the heavy side. Also it comes with plastic shocks. And as far as setup guides or something like that there are too few of them

[Kenny T]

I got my R40 for 200 in Japan but it's the standard spec. The racer spec was 250.

The standard spec has plastic shocks(racer has alu), but it doesn't bother me, I prefer them over alu shocks. The racer has a front one way instead of a diff.

By looking at the R40 it looks fine to me, I haven't driven it yet because I sold it before I could run it. (Cost to get running too much). If I decide to race I'm going to buy another R40 though.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by rodrigo1508
It is supposed to have plastic parts too soft , I do feel them soft but had no problem with that, other "problem " is the weight it is a little on the heavy side. Also it comes with plastic shocks. And as far as setup guides or something like that there are too few of them



here ya go......Stick this up your 710 leightweight Serpent 710...


http://hpiracing.co.jp/parts/s_30822_01.jpg


R40 which with 2003 JMRCA all the Japanese championships which had been debut year, average competed above the veteran and the evenness which stay, obtained beautiful commendation stand 2 rank. In the harsh fight the option part which you apply make-up & is tried and higher-level dimensional ƒw it evolves, the “Z ‚Á is in the body ' R40 2004 EDTION '. When efficiency, rigidity and maintenance characteristic are raised substantially, with the equipment of the option part which is selected, simultaneously, actualizing also the substantial light weight conversion which exceeds 100g. It levelled up all elements, it succeeded in bringing ultimate maneuverability. R40 2004 EDTION delivers the joy of victory to all drivers.

From 2004 EDTION the option part which is added
#33401 lightweight 2 speed shaft \1,000
#33402 lightweight middle shaft \1,200
#33403 steering wheel upgrade set \980
#33405 heat sink aluminum engine mount \2,800
#33407 aluminum hexagonal hub (clamp type /4pcs) \1,980
#33408 righto eight upper deck \4,500
#73089 front shock tower A (graphite) \1,200
#73090 rear shock tower A (graphite) \2,000
#73924 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 70-75S chassis (3mm/ gun metal) \6,300
#87172 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 2 speed set (0.8M 59/21T 53/27T) \4,800
#Z368 R40 titanium screw set \6,000




http://hpiracing.co.jp/parts/s_33413_01.jpg

The contents which are included in R40 TYPE 2004 conversion set
#33401 lightweight 2 speed shaft \1,000
#33402 lightweight middle shaft \1,200
#33403 steering wheel upgrade set \980
#33405 heat sink aluminum engine mount \2,800
#33407 aluminum hexagonal hub (clamp type /4pcs) \1,980
#33408 righto eight upper deck \4,500
#73089 front shock tower A (graphite) \1,200
#73090 rear shock tower A (graphite) \2,000
#73924 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 70-75S chassis (3mm/ gun metal) \6,300
#87172 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 2 speed set (0.8M 59/21T 53/27T) \4,800
* R40 titanium screw set (#A368) it is not included in conversion set.

[limitz]

Originally posted by fastharry
here ya go......Stick this up your 710 leightweight Serpent 710...


http://hpiracing.co.jp/parts/s_30822_01.jpg


R40 which with 2003 JMRCA all the Japanese championships which had been debut year, average competed above the veteran and the evenness which stay, obtained beautiful commendation stand 2 rank. In the harsh fight the option part which you apply make-up & is tried and higher-level dimensional ƒw it evolves, the “Z ‚Á is in the body ' R40 2004 EDTION '. When efficiency, rigidity and maintenance characteristic are raised substantially, with the equipment of the option part which is selected, simultaneously, actualizing also the substantial light weight conversion which exceeds 100g. It levelled up all elements, it succeeded in bringing ultimate maneuverability. R40 2004 EDTION delivers the joy of victory to all drivers.

From 2004 EDTION the option part which is added
#33401 lightweight 2 speed shaft \1,000
#33402 lightweight middle shaft \1,200
#33403 steering wheel upgrade set \980
#33405 heat sink aluminum engine mount \2,800
#33407 aluminum hexagonal hub (clamp type /4pcs) \1,980
#33408 righto eight upper deck \4,500
#73089 front shock tower A (graphite) \1,200
#73090 rear shock tower A (graphite) \2,000
#73924 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 70-75S chassis (3mm/ gun metal) \6,300
#87172 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 2 speed set (0.8M 59/21T 53/27T) \4,800
#Z368 R40 titanium screw set \6,000




http://hpiracing.co.jp/parts/s_33413_01.jpg

The contents which are included in R40 TYPE 2004 conversion set
#33401 lightweight 2 speed shaft \1,000
#33402 lightweight middle shaft \1,200
#33403 steering wheel upgrade set \980
#33405 heat sink aluminum engine mount \2,800
#33407 aluminum hexagonal hub (clamp type /4pcs) \1,980
#33408 righto eight upper deck \4,500
#73089 front shock tower A (graphite) \1,200
#73090 rear shock tower A (graphite) \2,000
#73924 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 70-75S chassis (3mm/ gun metal) \6,300
#87172 ƒ‰ƒCƒgƒEƒFƒCƒg 2 speed set (0.8M 59/21T 53/27T) \4,800
* R40 titanium screw set (#A368) it is not included in conversion set.

Hey, anyone know where I can buy the Titanium screw set for the R40 or even individual screws?

[C0NTENDER]

Looks like bad news for all of us who enjoy going to the regional HPI challenges:


HPI STAFF Response
Thanks for the question. We've been doing the standard HPI Challenge series for several years now and everyone's had a great time. In order to keep getting the race coverage in the magazines we need the series to evolve to keep up with the hot trends in the industry. So this year we will shift our focus a little to emphasize the Savage trucks.

We're planning two Savage Slam events that will be fun events like the one we did last year... racing, Savage Bowling, concours, long jump contests, barbeque, prizes etc. The idea is to get together for a fun truckin' event with friends and family. We're shooting for one event on the west coast and one event on the east coast, both in the Summer so that the whole family can attend.

For the HPI Challenge, we're planning one event with the format basically the same as in previous years (nitro and electric sedans), with selected winners getting a free trip to the HPI Challenge World Finals in Europe. The race will probably be in the Summer, somewhere in the middle of America.

We'll be announcing the dates and locations as soon as we know the exact details. We're still looking for clubs to host the events, so if you have the facilities, experience and want to host an event, start a thread here in the forum with your contact information and we'll get in touch with you.

The main things that we look for are:

1. A good location with maximum exposure to the public (county fairs, car events, high traffic venues).

2. An established and organized racing club (with facilities, equipment, and experience running races).

3. A location with a good amount of local racers, 200 racers is our target for each event.

[nitro13]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER

For the HPI Challenge, we're planning one event with the format basically the same as in previous years (nitro and electric sedans), with selected winners getting a free trip to the HPI Challenge World Finals in Europe. The race will probably be in the Summer, somewhere in the middle of America.


only one challenge in the middle of the us thats about 1000 mile from here and bad for me i cant go hardly anywhere to race only the tracks witin 30 mins for the challenge i give my parents some money for gas and hotel but 1000 mile looks like i wont be going.the main reason i got the R40 was that i can go to the hpi challenge since it was closer that that but o well.i wonder how many they will have to turn away if they only have one then proble alot will go so thell proble turn away some.


and is this servo good for the r40 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXA8&P=0
the futaba s9405 coreless high torque servo that the one im gana use since i got one in my old car i can replace with a old one.

nitro13,

[xkylar]

What's the purpose of the spring in one of the steering assembly for? The R40 is the first kit I've built and it's going well so far.

[sasonrally]

The spring is part of the steering servo saver, which helps with the tension of the steering plate. It helps cushion tension when turning at high speeds. You find this spring on many high quality servo saver set ups.

[Light003]

I purchased all new parts for the steering( servo saver nut, spring , bell crank) to try to fix my binding problem an it not fixed. there something too tight. What do you think

[Digit]

yeah light003, just leave the screws a LITTLE loose on the plastic cover on top of it as well as the two that hold the bearings down...that slight slop that you and i get does not REALLY affect much, but does kinda make things feel a bit junky and not precise :( i have tried just about everything to make that region tight, but still come up with that non-centering binding issue...

**can someone please tell me why people put fuel filters on thier pressure line??? i think it has to do something with the fuel economy right?

***also, my novamega 5pt engine is acting a bit weird, it feels like it runs fine, but after a high speed area, and then brakes, it drops idle really quickly and then when throttle is applied once again it is kinda boggy on accel...any pointers would be nice :D

[HKS]

I've heard that a lot of crap can re-enter the fuel system through the pressure line. If you run one you'll probably be surprised at what you find in the filter.

As for your nova, I'm going out on a limb that your hgh end is a little too lean?:confused:

[mbx5]

Hi guys, I just orderd R40. Which novarossi engine should I get? also what mainfold and pipe. Is there any guides to build the R40 nicely?:)

[xkylar]

I just finished building my R40. Whenever I hit the brakes and let go, the brakes doesn't release or go back to it's normal position and it's causing drag. Any of you guys had this problem? What did I do wrong? Please help me!!!

[Digit]

Originally posted by xkylar
I just finished building my R40. Whenever I hit the brakes and let go, the brakes doesn't release or go back to it's normal position and it's causing drag. Any of you guys had this problem? What did I do wrong? Please help me!!!

if it is only a little drag, this is normal. when the car is running at high speeds, the plates WILL open up enough, but if it is just you rolling the [not turned on] chassis, you can feel any minimal draggage and it might not feel silky smooth all the time...oh, and dont 4get to adjust your radio properly :rolleyes:

[fastharry]

I had the same problem....I put spring and stopper on the other side of the brake side servo arm......

[xkylar]

I tried your way fastharry and it works now. I did set my radio properly but it just won't release the brakes. Thanks.

[fastharry]

always glad to help...

[nitro13]

do yall know if this starter box will work with the hpi r40
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRS98&P=7 i ordered if for $30 with a cupon i had

nitro13,

[xkylar]

I use the same starter box nitro13. It works pretty good.

I have a question for those who have a Novarossi NS12S3 or to anyone who knows the answer. How hot as far as temperature is concerned can the engine go? I've ran about 10-12 tanks so far and my HSN is 5 turns out and get a temp about 220F-230F. I see alot of smoke coming out but when I lean it out about 1/8th of a turn, I still see alot of smoke but my temp spikes to 240F-270F. Am I doing something wrong here?

[mbx5]

hi guys,

is there any good forum for the R40????


Where can I buy good air filters online????

[rodrigo1508]

The one on rctech.net its ok but they never answer my questions, It may be personal or something

[xkylar]

What part or parts do I need to make the 4-gear modification? Hara used Hot Bodies lightning gear shaft but I can't find the part #. Can you guys hook me up with the part# or whatever I need to make this happen? Does it have to be the hot bodies or could it be something else? Thanks.

[rodrigo1508]

I used the Kyosho shafts Here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXT505)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by xkylar
I use the same starter box nitro13. It works pretty good.

I have a question for those who have a Novarossi NS12S3 or to anyone who knows the answer. How hot as far as temperature is concerned can the engine go? I've ran about 10-12 tanks so far and my HSN is 5 turns out and get a temp about 220F-230F. I see alot of smoke coming out but when I lean it out about 1/8th of a turn, I still see alot of smoke but my temp spikes to 240F-270F. Am I doing something wrong here?

I will say STOP at 270...you don't want to go any higher then that unless you really need that speed to race with ohters, I have friends run 300 on their JP, but again, they have new engine almost every 2 weeks and if you can afford that $$$$....you can try.

Also, now it is still winter/spring time...temp is cool, once you get to summer time, 270 will ended up 280-290 range...not to mention your main is 5 minutes, 10 minutes or 15 or even longer main...the longer the main, the richer you want your engine run...

Overall, keep it around 250 and called it.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rodrigo1508
I used the Kyosho shafts Here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXT505)

and then what? ive heard of the mod and the kyosho shafts then thats it:confused: what else has to be done other than the obvious taking the car apart?

[xkylar]

Thanks for all the responses. By the way I live in Guam so it's always summer here (temps from 85-105 I think). I just feel that the NS3 is holding back or something. But I did read that Nova's take up to a gallon of fuel to be fully broken-in. Maybe I'm just impatient or something.

As far as the rear diff mod. I have to assume that you take the other 2 bevel gears from the front (you don't need it 'coz you already have a front one-way) and use all 4 (including the rear) and hook it up to the kyosho bevel gears for the rear diff.

[rodrigo1508]

also If you want more bevels they come from the savage

[QuickSilver1024]

i have the same brake problem as the last guy. When I press down the brake really hard, the thing that pushes the plates together gets stuck. I heard that when running at high speeds it will free up, but it seems unlikely. The thing is really stuck.

Does anybody have any ideas on remedying this?

(The spring idea doesnt work)

[rodrigo1508]

unscrew a little bit the support in the servo arm

[QuickSilver1024]

:confused: how does that help. can you explain it in more detail? i can just make it so that it doesnt brake too hard, but then i wont be able to break too well

[Nsxshogun]

I'm about to get a r40 and put a TR turbo in it coupled with a THS pipe. Is there any thing I should know about this kit before I get it. Its going to be my first kit, I chose this out of everything else mostly cause of parts support. Any problems with anything I should be warry about.




btw:my first car was a ld3

[HKS]

QuickSilver1024.....I just put some fuel tubing on the other side of the servo arm to keep the brake from staying on.

[QuickSilver1024]

oh..i put a spring where the tubing is (not the other side). It works fine, but the braking isnt as immediate. I guess thats okay since its a bad idea to brake hard anyways.

thanx

[Kenny T]

Nsxshogun, I found some of the instructions confusing, some of needed correcting, I don't if they've done it yet. It took a really long time to build also.

[QuickSilver1024]

i also found the wiring part really hard =S ....but im new to the sport so maybe im just stupid

[KronicRacer]

the toughest thing for me was the battery pack the cover. it wasnt flush at all. the wiring was a bit of a pain.

[Nsxshogun]

ok Thanks I plan on getting the car saturday if I don't have to order it. Depending how early or late I'll get it I may be done late saturday or eairly sunday to break in the motor the day after.

[xkylar]

This was the first kit I built and I found it fairly easy to build. Just pay close attention to the instructions. It took me about 2 1/2 days to finish.
Some issues that I ran into were the servo wirings (it doesn't go through the inside of the battery box but rather outside between the fuel tank and the box, so you won't have a problem getting the battery cover flush to the chassis), brakes won't come back to normal position (fixed by adding fuel tubing on the other side), and receiver battery box too short (depends on what receiver you use).
Other than that you should be fine. Just browse through the whole board and alot of people have shared alot of good tips and things to watch out for.

[Nsxshogun]

I have the money so now if I have a ride ill get it 2marrow. Maybe just maybe ill be able to hit the track thursday to practice and break my motor in.

[X-garage]

Does anybody knows what titanium turnbuckles for HPI R40? I have seen them on HARA car, but I just could not find anything to match with those. If any one know any option please inform me...thank you

[luchinlb]

Hi,

I have question guys,

If you take a look on the manual on page 21 step 21, i need to use the part 23T but i also have here a 22. Do i need to decide wich one i want to use or that part will go in another place....i took a look on the manual on next pages and i didnt see any other place were i need to use it.

If i´m the one who needs to decide wich one to use. Wich will be better and what´s the differences between those two parts 23T and 22T.

[luchinlb]

Please help me out here

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by luchinlb
Hi,

I have question guys,

If you take a look on the manual on page 21 step 21, i need to use the part 23T but i also have here a 22. Do i need to decide wich one i want to use or that part will go in another place....i took a look on the manual on next pages and i didnt see any other place were i need to use it.

If i´m the one who needs to decide wich one to use. Wich will be better and what´s the differences between those two parts 23T and 22T.

When you use FOAM TIRES....tires will get smaller and smaller, change different TOOTH on pulleys will maintain the ROLL OUT of the whole gear ratio so when your tires get smaller, your car will not get slower....however, the calculation and theory of this matter is not something you can understand here....you can try ask some PRO racer at your local track...........

Use the 23T, that is the stock gear, and I don't think you will need the 22T (for now) unless you are getting more PRO and picky of your TC performance.....

[Nsxshogun]

I just got my kit yesterday first It was giving me hell because I couldn't find any of the screws that you have to use. When I was at home I got right up to the rear diff and I want to know are you supposed be able to rotate them diffrent ways.

[luchinlb]

Thanx Rookie

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Nsxshogun
I just got my kit yesterday first It was giving me hell because I couldn't find any of the screws that you have to use. When I was at home I got right up to the rear diff and I want to know are you supposed be able to rotate them diffrent ways.

Thats why it is called Diff....when you turn one of the axle clockwise, the other axle will turn counter-clockwise, you didn't do anything wrong....this effect only work like this when your car is turning..........and you cannot see it. So don't worry about how can your car go straight when one of the wheel is going backward.

[Sparkey_STi]

Sorry for this, but i didnt really feel like reading every post to have my question awnsered, so if its been awnsered, just please awnser it again as i dont want to mess this up. Will these two work togeather? Or is the pipe the wrong type and i have to buy an adapter? http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_88.htm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGD0&P=7 also, those will work in the R40 too right? Thats why i posed it here, and one last question, thats all ROAR Legal right? I know the pipe is because it says, ROAR LEGAL but what about the engine?

[Kenny T]

I have the CV-R, I installed it in the R40 without manifold and it fit but when I installed it with the manifold it hit agains the rear bulkhead and I couldn't get it in. The engine is ROAR legal.

[sasonrally]

The 12 CVR is a side exhaust. It would not fit the R40 at all.
Try the 12 TR. Also it will not work with that pipe.

[Nsxshogun]

Ok Right now im building the shocks so ill probally be done when I get home.

[Rookie Solara]

Sorry for this, but i didnt really feel like reading every post to have my *uestion awnsered, so if its been awnsered, just please awnser it again as i dont want to mess this up. Will these two work togeather? Or is the pipe the wrong type and i have to buy an adapter? http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_88.htm http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGD0&P=7 also, those will work in the R40 too right? Thats why i posed it here, and one last *uestion, thats all ROAR Legal right? I know the pipe is because it says, ROAR LEGAL but what about the engine?

Your pipe is fine (even though you should get their TURBO 2 pipe instead) and your engine.....that engine is side exhaust, cannot work with your rear exhaust engine.

Beside, with that CVR engine, don't tell me you are using that engine to race ROAR... If you want low-cost OS engine, at least get the TR engine.

[Nsxshogun]

I finished my car now all I need to do is install my radio my servos are already in.

[Sparkey_STi]

Your pipe is fine (even though you should get their TURBO 2 pipe instead) and your engine.....that engine is side exhaust, cannot work with your rear exhaust engine.

Beside, with that CVR engine, don't tell me you are using that engine to race ROAR... If you want low-cost OS engine, at least get the TR engine.

The reason I didnt say anything about the TR is I didnt think it was ROAR legal because in the Tower Discription it says "Four ports". But i was told it is legal because the "forth" port is the exhaust.

Hells no! Im not racing ROAR! Its just the rules our club follows. I found out our club VP is a Top Engines dealer (AE With Nova Rossi) And he could get me then engine, yes i have to pay for all you thinking i get it free :p .

Rookie could you please link me to the Turbo 2 pipe? I cant find it.

Also, all you guys own R40 (or at lease know a lot about them and can fake it), and probally have driven a AE NTC3. What Car would be better and for what application. I was told shaft has more kick out of corners because there is NO slack, but lacks in high speed. Also, i was told belts are more so forgiveing. Please strightn me out! If you want looks at our track go http://www.marcar.org/photo.htm there.

[Rookie Solara]

...............
Rookie could you please link me to the Turbo 2 pipe? I cant find it.

Also, all you guys own R40 (or at lease know a lot about them and can fake it), and probally have driven a AE NTC3.............

One thing at a time.......here is the link of the latest TURBO 2 pipe, haven't try mine yet, but by looking at it........looks as good as those $100 plus Nova Mega pipe....

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/150.html

2nd....if possible, get the SIRIO 12 (the old BLACK HEAD one)...if you can afford $180, then get the newest EVO2 (blue head one)....the SIRIO get about 1.4HP, good enough for your local club race....
Tower has no idea about 90% of the stuff they sell.....rarely you will see some 4 PORTS engine (no one called a 3 ports engine a 4 ports cause the last one is the exhaust)....usually, 3 ports and 5 ports for 12 engine.....7 or even 11 ports on 21 engine sometimes............ROAR rule book stated, any small block 12 engine (turbo or non-turbo plug) with the max 3 ports are allow...so you can even try the Nova Mega SS-12 3 port turbo or JP or Nova MAX or Coralli RB 3 ports....as long as they are 3 ports, it is LEGAL....ROAR actually thinking to adapt the small block 15 enigne as well......but lots of ppl are against it cause small block 15 is all about $$$$$$$......

HOWEVER, if you have a Nova TOP engine buddy work at your track and can get you connection of those "EASY TO GET" Nova Rossi engine......one word for you "NOVA ROSSI NS12"........

3rd...........I drove NTC3 before............well, still waiting for the release of the 2004 spec R40 (so I have TC-less now..)........NTC3 is a good and VERY EASY to setup car, car is RACE ready (so does R40) when you follow the manual correctly and no need to spend alot of time to understand and set up (compare to S710), one of the few low budget but FAST car (FW-05R is another good one)......however, I do not think NTC3 is any BETTER tehn others like S710, MTX3 or R40 (belt car...)

For me.......BELT car last longer, NTC3 is not a bullet proof car....I had so many DNF with that and splitted at least 6 fuel tank (really, cracked and split into 2-3 pieces)....

For the low-end and top end speed.............they are all the same, no different....the different is SHAFT has a little punch, but belt car has that same feature too.........R40 just released the 0.80 pitch gear box to create that punch effect......you just have to find it, apparently, they are not planning to import the R40 04 spec.

If you have to pick one.........find out which mfr does your LHS carry the most and has the best price.....both very good car (also think about the factory team NTC3.......for $360 with almost 90% of the pro option for NTC3, it is a good deal...)

[Sparkey_STi]

One thing at a time.......here is the link of the latest TURBO 2 pipe, haven't try mine yet, but by looking at it........looks as good as those $100 plus Nova Mega pipe....

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/150.html

2nd...........I drove NTC3 before............well, still waiting for the release of the 2004 spec R40........NTC3 is a good and VERY EASY to setup car, car is RACE ready (national race ready) when you follow the manual correctly, one of the few low budget but FAST car (FW-05R is another good one)......however, I do not think NTC3 is any BETTER and others like S710, MTX3 or R40 (belt car...)

For me.......BELT car last longer, NTC3 is not a bullet proof car....I had so many DNF with that and splitted at least 6 fuel tank (really, cracked and split into 2-3 pieces)....

For the low-end and top end speed.............they are all the same, no different....the different is SHAFT has a little punch, but belt car has that same feature too.........R40 just released the 0.80 pitch gear box to create that punch effect......you just have to find it, apparently, they are not planning to import the R40 04 spec.

If you have to pick one.........find out which mfr does your LHS carry the most and has the best price.....both very good car (also think about the factory team NTC3.......for $360 with almost 90% of the pro option for NTC3, it is a good deal...)

Ok.. where exatly are you guys finding Factory NTC3's for under $400? I cant find one thats not <$400.

Ok, ill probly go and check parts for the cars. I think they have more NTC3 stuff as our track is NTC3, Mugen, and one Ofna. lol... id be the first R40. But so far its looking like NTC3 because of the avaliblity... just i have to order the friggen thing cause my LHS only has MT's and a RS4 3 Evo.

Sounds like belts are a little more forgiving tho, im not the best of drivers (Hell, this is will by first on-road race car!). Iv done one race, but it was vs the clock at a hooters for MT tickets.

As of now, it just comes down to what my LHS has more of.

[Rookie Solara]

I have a brand new NTC3 (not factory team but TEAM KIT, rear exhaust non-pull...still in original box unopen) and a brand new 3 port Siiro engine (again, new, in bag, never fired...) $220 plus $130....$350 plus $20 shipping....

[Nsxshogun]

I finished building and the car dosn't roll very smooth is that normal I haven't broke the engine in if it matters.

[Nsxshogun]

I finished building and the car dosn't roll very smooth is that normal I haven't broke the engine in if it matters.

Also my steering rubs when the servos installed how can I fix that.

[Rookie Solara]

I finished building and the car dosn't roll very smooth is that normal I haven't broke the engine in if it matters.

If you compare to shaft drive cars like NTC3, you will never be ROLL like NTC3, no way, and never will be....R40 is belt driven, it has the tension on each of the belts and that will make the car NOT ROLL like shaft....however, if you are saying your car not roll normally....like something is rubbing and binding or such....my suggestion is, remove 1 belt at a time and find out that is the REAR part of the gearbox are having problem, or the side piulleys/belt or the front belt gearbox are having problem, eventually, you will find out it must be something you did wrong....no one can help you cause your question is not specific enough.

Also my steering rubs when the servos installed how can I fix that.

Where....? Again, more specific if you want ppl to help.....the SERVO horn rubbing the belt? Or the steering knuckles not turn smoothly..? Too many and you need to be more specific....

[Nsxshogun]

If you compare to shaft drive cars like NTC3, you will never be ROLL like NTC3, no way, and never will be....R40 is belt driven, it has the tension on each of the belts and that will make the car NOT ROLL like shaft....however, if you are saying your car not roll normally....like something is rubbing and binding or such....my suggestion is, remove 1 belt at a time and find out that is the REAR part of the gearbox are having problem, or the side piulleys/belt or the front belt gearbox are having problem, eventually, you will find out it must be something you did wrong....no one can help you cause your question is not specific enough.



Where....? Again, more specific if you want ppl to help.....the SERVO horn rubbing the belt? Or the steering knuckles not turn smoothly..? Too many and you need to be more specific....

Yea I was comparing it to my Ld3, When I turn the wheels the servo dosen't move.

[Nsxshogun]

Well I found out why it was doing what it was doing I change some stuff up and its working fine the reason it dosen't roll very well is because the front diff is bent out of shape a little there for the bearings don't align right.

[Nsxshogun]

I also wanted to konw how do you adjust the clutch with out taking it off just in case I need to set it.

[luchinlb]

Hi people............

I decided to go with the MT-12 for my R40. New questions came in. On my LHS here in Panama they have it at 235.00, and i've seen it at 160.00 on some online stores. Do they have different versions like 3 or 5 ports, Turbo or non-turbo. If anyone have this info please let me know before i spend 70 extra dollars in something.

I have no idea why it is that expensive here.... :(

[Nsxshogun]

Any one know how to adjust the clutch?

[Rookie Solara]

Any one know how to adjust the clutch?

Read thru this espeically the Centax Assembly instructions

Centax adjustment methrod without removing the clutch housing... (http://www.ashfordhobby.com/tech04.htm#Centax%20Assembly%20instructions)

[luchinlb]

Any help???

Also i have another question....which reciever pack should i get??

TIA

[Kenny T]

I don't know much about the engine but you need a flat 5 cell pack, get one with the highest mAh, longer runtime.

[josephkim]

Hi. I have a r40. I currently use a jr racing xs3 radio and a novarossi ns12 s3 and a RD logics pipe. I am confused on how to install the clutch, flywheel, etc. Could someone help me? Is there a website that could help? or could you guys simply be nice enough to tell me? Thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

Hi. I have a r40. I currently use a jr racing xs3 radio and a novarossi ns12 s3 and a RD logics pipe. I am confused on how to install the clutch, flywheel, etc. Could someone help me? Is there a website that could help? or could you guys simply be nice enough to tell me? Thanks.

Read my post above regarding CENTAX clutch installation

[Rookie Solara]

Any help???

Also i have another question....which reciever pack should i get??

TIA

Yes, MT-12 have sevearl models....MT-12 with standard crank and standard plug, MT-12 with SG crank and standard plug, MT-12 TURBO with standard crank and TURBO plug and MT-12 TURBO with SG crank and standard plug.

I believed they are all 3 port...just turbo and non-turbo, not sure their TURBO version are 5 ports or not....

The best place to get MT-12....$159.99 from Ace Hardware Hobbies....

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=108_217_222

But your question is.......do you really want the MT-12 engine..? This engine is for sure a very good engine, but it is a very old engine, been around almost 5 years.........the newer model is the MR-12. Your other alternative. OS -TR engine or Siiro 12 engine, both are below $150 range and still have good HP like MT-12

About receiver pack.......anything that is 5 cells (6V) with 1100 mah or above....they have 1200 mah now.....check TOWER, you can get some from TRINITY or TEAM ORION.

[Saboteur]

Darnit now ya made me feel bad about my MT12 Rookie :(. Though for $100 I sure couldn't pass it up. Know any other piston/sleeve set that will work with the MT12? Something like from an RS12 or so? Just drove mine today and its pretty quick, but I would like a bit more speed/power. :D

[Digit]

ha, i actually was going to come here and post a question just like saboteur's!

an addition to that though, is does anyone know of a detailed site that shows you how to "port and polish" a sleeve? i know there was an article in RCCA a while back, but i cant seem to find mine and i also cant find it on the net in the backissues... it basically said to smooth out the edges almost everywhere and also something about making scoops in the exhaust port. my old MT12 is almost on it's way out, so i just wanna do a little experimenting ;)

[Kenny T]

http://nascart.com/nitrom.htm Try that.

Good Luck.

[xkylar]

Hi. I have a r40. I currently use a jr racing xs3 radio and a novarossi ns12 s3 and a RD logics pipe. I am confused on how to install the clutch, flywheel, etc. Could someone help me? Is there a website that could help? or could you guys simply be nice enough to tell me? Thanks.

I have the same thing as you do: NS12, RDL Turbo II and XS3. First off, take the collet that came with the NS12 and use the one that came with your kit. Then follow the manual. I'm guessing that you're using the collet that came with the NS12 and nothing fits and you can't tighten the pilot shaft. Hope this helps.

[xkylar]

Do you guys have a good copy of the blank setup sheet? I've tried three different computers and three different versions of Adobe Acrobat (2 reader and 1 writer) and have had no luck with any of them. Please e-mail me a copy if you do have one (xkylar@ite.net). Thanks.

[nitro13]

heres a blank sheet http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/r40blank.pdf

nitro13,

[limitz]

I have an NS12S5 in my R40 and I ran about 10 tanks of fuel through it during break-in. How do you know when enough is enough as far as breaking in a motor? Also, anyone know the factory needle settings or have an idea? Thanks

[xkylar]

heres a blank sheet http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/r40blank.pdf

nitro13,

It doesn't show up on my computer screen at all. The Adobe plug-in would load and that would be it. Same thing happens on 3 other computers and 3 different versions of Acrobat.

[Digit]

limitz: 10 tanks is about enough of preliminary break-in. you can start leaning it out now, but probably what you have heard was that it takes about a gallon for nova's huh? this is true, as your engine will produce PEAK performance after a gallon...

*~*~*~*~*anyone know a cheap source for a piston/sleeve/rod for the Mugen MT-12??? not many places still sell those.... if not, what others can be substituted? like from an sx-12, mr-12, rs-12, etc.

[Sparkey_STi]

What would be more bang for my buck. Im trying to keep the price down, but quality high. a sirio, or Nova Rossi. I was more so looking at the ones on Tower hobbies. The Nova for 219 and Sirio was like 150.

[Nsxshogun]

Nitrohouse.com sells the mt-12 for 155.

[Sparkey_STi]

Ok, but what would be better for just casual ROAR rules sunday raceing? Cause i hear nothing but good about Nova... and i dont really hear much about Sirio

[Nsxshogun]

You can't really go wrong with my engine a Picco XP-12 has power on the same level as teh Mt-12. I say the MT12 xp12 Tr. The novas are good but pricy and the siros make good power but there not as expensive.

[wgppaintball03]

ok, the shocks they give you with the r40 SUCK!!!! i was at my lhs and the had a set of Ntc3 factory team shocks for 50.00 for 4 shocks. would these shocks fit and work right? or will i have to buy the HPI aftermarket shocks. or if ther is any other shocks out there that anyone else uses like GPM shocks or somthin?
Thanks a lot guys, Chad

[Nsxshogun]

Yea they will if it attaches with the same ball and cup design. But most likely youll have to get some more shocks. What exacually happend to the shcoks>?

[Sparkey_STi]

Would this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX8&P=7 engine be fine? WIll it fit? And is this a good engine for sunday racing?

[Saboteur]

That engine is pretty good. Even better, they have the Evo2 for the same price which is more powerful and have a overall better powerband. Check the evo.

[Sparkey_STi]

Ok, cool thx. But also, i was told it has to be a SG or Pilot shaft. Will that Evo2 work with the R40? And is there anything else i need with the engine?

[Saboteur]

Pilot shaft is another name for SG. It will fit the R40 no problem. I think it includes a glow plug. Get a spare plug or two and supply the engine with an airfilter that will fit the carb.

[luchinlb]

Is the Evo 2 better thatn the MT-12???

I still trying to find out wich motor to get....I want something between 150 and 250 no more than that. Can anyone link me to the Evo 2 in towerhobbies....they have a lot of Evo 2s there and if i decide to go with that one, i want to be sure i get the one that will fit my R40.

TIA

[Rkmori]

Has anybody experimented with different diff oils in the front dif? and changing the the ratio on the front pully to achieve over or under drive?

[Rkmori]

Is the Evo 2 better thatn the MT-12???

I still trying to find out wich motor to get....I want something between 150 and 250 no more than that. Can anyone link me to the Evo 2 in towerhobbies....they have a lot of Evo 2s there and if i decide to go with that one, i want to be sure i get the one that will fit my R40.

TIA
Most of the .12 motors will fit the R40 but what you will need to watch for is the slide for the carb. you want to make sure it does not hit the upper deck or tank. I just put in a new SIRIO .12 and I had a little bit of rubbing on the tank enough to where it would stick 3/4 throttle....(not a good thing)....but a little off the tank problem solved.....and I do mean a little.

[Rkmori]

Just a FYI, Serpent Pivot ball will fit on the R40, so if in a pinch and somebody has a Serpent problem solved.....

[josephkim]

I have the same thing as you do: NS12, RDL Turbo II and XS3. First off, take the collet that came with the NS12 and use the one that came with your kit. Then follow the manual. I'm guessing that you're using the collet that came with the NS12 and nothing fits and you can't tighten the pilot shaft. Hope this helps.
OHHHHHHHH!!! OK. Thanks for the help!

[mavrickhunter]

wow no new stuff for the R40. I try reading this thread when ever someone post something new. I love my R40 Just want it to stop raing so I can finally run the brute. Laters

[Rkmori]

wow no new stuff for the R40. I try reading this thread when ever someone post something new. I love my R40 Just want it to stop raing so I can finally run the brute. Laters

I think HPI is not support the R40 or much of the U.S. Touring Cars. They are focusing their attention to offroad, The R40 2004 spec upgrade and kits are available in Asia but not here in the US :mad: . They will not be having a HPI Challange, although they might have one Big race central located in the US for all cars. I'm starting to become dissappointed in HPI's direction, I think it is time to look into other car makers.....Serpent certainly has gotten my attention......... :rolleyes:

[nitro13]

I think HPI is not support the R40 or much of the U.S. Touring Cars. They are focusing their attention to offroad, The R40 2004 spec upgrade and kits are available in Asia but not here in the US :mad: . They will not be having a HPI Challange, although they might have one Big race central located in the US for all cars. I'm starting to become dissappointed in HPI's direction, I think it is time to look into other car makers.....Serpent certainly has gotten my attention......... :rolleyes:

last year 5 events savage cam out 1 savage slam

this year 1 hpi event 2 savage slams

next year possibly 0 hpi event 5 savage slam

basicaly there talling you to get a savage to race at hpi events

nitro13,

[KronicRacer]

thats kinda sad. last hpi challenge (vegas if i remember correctly) they didnt let the guys use overseas hopups for the r40. now theyre cutting down how many challenges there are for touring cars. whats the big deal about the savage. if this keeps up im sticking to team associated. :eek:

[HKS]

Hey KronicRacer I see you're from Ft. Laderdale, where do you race?

[KronicRacer]

i used to go to oakland and 441. i got bored with 1/8th scaleguys always pushing everyone around. after that i havent raced on a track for the past year and a half. been running my nitros near warricks hobby shop (closer to bcc central campus to be exact). i havent fired up the nitros in over a month since my car accident :(.

[HKS]

I'm about to start racing at the Oakland park track. I was practicing there yesteray and no 1/8 were there the entire day...strange.

[KronicRacer]

well sunday is the big day once a month. thats when they have the race for points. top guy in points gets a new motor.

[sasonrally]

hey I raced there a couple of times in December. the track was kind off dusty though and tight. But I gotta admit lots of fun and off course there were a few 1/8th scale guys pushing me around during practice runs. Good thing the hobby shop is just a hop away.

[Jayweezy]

I've been gone for a while (school, girlfriend, etc.) and was wondering if I needed to buy another car or is the R-40 still working for you guys.

[RCNitroDude999]

Well I just ordered an r40 from ebay....tell me good things about this car guys!

[mavrickhunter]

I suggest getting a micrometer to help in the building. Other than that youll find out lots of good things as soon as you get it.

[Colt M4]

I am thinking about buying a R40. But what motor do you guys recommend for a motor. I swaying towards the Sirio Evo 2 or the Rossi Black Pixi.

[HKS]

The rear tires on the R40 wear out faster than the ones up front. What should I do to increase wear up front? I don't want to true it because i want to get the most life out of them. Any sugestions?

[TraNcEFoRm]

Wait, I have a question, might have asked this before, but will the STS RS3 with the SG crankshaft fit the HPI R40? Also, would Futaba servos work with an Airtronics receiver?

[Drew M]

The rear tires on the R40 wear out faster than the ones up front. What should I do to increase wear up front? I don't want to true it because i want to get the most life out of them. Any sugestions?

This is fairly typical. The rear tires are a softer compound than the front. My rears always wear out quicker than my fronts on every car I run be it a 1/12th scale pan car or a nitro touring car.

[Drew M]

Wait, I have a question, might have asked this before, but will the STS RS3 with the SG crankshaft fit the HPI R40?

If it is a slide carb and rear exhaust then yes.

Also, would Futaba servos work with an Airtronics receiver?

Yes. Servos are dumb. They have no idea what they are plugged into. All they know is they have a power wire, ground wire and a signal wire which turns the motor on and off. Depending on the age of your Airtronics receiver you may have to switch pins in the servo plug however. Just note the pin configuration on your existing Airtronics servo and make sure the Futaba matches it. Red - red, black-black and white - blue.

[KingWillie]

I am thinking about buying a R40. But what motor do you guys recommend for a motor. I swaying towards the Sirio Evo 2 or the Rossi Black Pixi.

I run the Black Pixi, incredible low and mid range, good top end, very reliable, not the easiest thing to tune, but I would recommend it. Ran every other weekend for 9 months, still not rebuilt, but getting to the point where compressioin is going down. Not bad, lasted as long as anything else I've ever run. I have an S5 NIB, might put that in soon.

[Exe]

Hello everyone,

well.. will start from the beginning... i got into rc cars not long ago... a few months ago i purchased rs4 evo 3 for driving on parking lots as we don't have any tracks in my stupid republic of Lithuania... well, after a few hop ups like racing clutch, pipe, air filter... i wanted to go further, cause i see in my eyes the simplicity of rs4 evo3 chasis, simply it is not what i'd like to see, so i though i will buy hop ups etc... but that's too expensive, so, i went for R40...

so i ordered r40, i will have it in probably two weeks with this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEDA7 engine... i was reading hundreds of forum posts, reviews, but this engine somehow caught my atention, tell me what you think..

regarding r40.. after reading all 40 pages of this thread i'm really shocked... i am really capable of doing things right, i have real hands but now i start thinking how i will build this car... i hope everything will go fine...

i wanted to ask you a few things more... what is the top speed of r40 with stock gears and a good engine? what is the top speed with optional gearing ?

now abot the track.. unfortunately we don't have one, so we will have to preprare a parking lot for r40.. the asphalt there is really good and plain. as you race on different tracks, in what thing they are covered? asphalt? we are planing of building one track here so we could do some races, but we plan to lay sports cover like in stadiums, some kind of rubber. what do you thing? what would you suggest?

Do you all use failsafe device ?

thank you for your time..

[Minus]

Hello USA ;)

There is no HPI R40 forum in France thus I address oneself directly to you.

Excuse me for my approximate English, i'm french :)

This small word to explain you my problem and to ask solutions:

My R40 makes a weight of 2 kg with the body (Volvo S60 coming from Serpent).

I'have all titanium axes and carbon supports of shock absorbers.

Which types of modifications or options to buy to reduce the weight of this car :)

Thanks for your answer and you can to also send me photographs by email for more explanations (fps.game@libertysurf.fr).

[Redneck Basher]

I just bought a used R40 and plan to upgrade some parts before I compete. I am familiar with the car and understand that it can and probably should be lightened considerably. I plan to get the HPI lightweight shafts but am also interested in a new lightweight chassis. Has anyone tried the lightweight HPI, 3Racing, or GPM chassis upgrades?? If so, what do you think??

[KronicRacer]

the race chassis from hpi is awsome deffinately lightweight over the stock one and much more stiffer.

[Saboteur]

Anyone know of an R40 version sold here in the US that has upgrades in it? My LHS still has the stock one but I'd like an upgraded version.

[nitro13]

no i dont think the 2004 r40 version is sold in the us.I think its only sold in japan

nitro13,

[KronicRacer]

the only way it seems we'll be able to get this kit now will be to order from overseas. for the guys that have an r40 already i remember hearing something about an upgrade kit.

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/ <---- best asian online overseas shop

http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/home.php?cat=458 <-- best euro online shop

[mavrickhunter]

you can just buy all my parts, check them out
http://hpiforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=10940

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i cant decide if i want the ntc3, r40, or the mtx-3. i dont want a car that the company is going to update as soon as i buy it, how long until the mtx-3 will be updated with something newer, like an mtx-4. i know they just came out with the prospec, so does thst mean it should be around for a while?
the thing most important to me is the quality of the car and how its built, im guessing that would be the mtx-3 out of these 3 cars. but i really like the new r40 as well, its a good design, but its their first competition car so im guessing that it will be replaced in a year or 2 with something newer, like they do with their pro-series electric cars.

then there is the ntc3, i like that the most because its shaft drive.

this is so confusing. i will race it, and the engine i will get is the o.s .12tr or the turbo version. so i just want your opinions on these 3 cars and your likes and dislikes of each, thanks.

[Saboteur]

The prospec is just a version with all the optional parts made for the MTX-3. It's being shipped in limited quantities though. I love the Mugen but as always, its expensive for me at the moment. The R40 suits my budget but I'd like a kit with graphite shock towers, and lighter parts. Still in stock form though its fine for my onroad bashing/racing. The NTC3 kit is also great but I'd go for the FT version. I don't mind bashing with belts as I never had problems with it. Also the kelvar belts are really durable. I've been running my nitro sedan and after few hrs of abuse realized there was a tiny grain stick in my pulley gears! No damage to the belt or gears and after removing it everything was fine. People really get thrown off from belts is that they play a part in the cars acceleration and top speed. Proper # of teeth on the pulleys for the belts matters a lot. With a shaft driven car you have none of that to worry about but I'd still get myself an MTX-3 if I had the $$$ :)

[maniac_frank]

HI, when I run My R40 the Cluch bell gears comes loose why does this happen?
Thanks.

[KronicRacer]

apply some thread lock to the bellhousing then thread the gears on the. ive had the same problem come up. and found that this helps.

[maniac_frank]

Thanks for the reply I'll try that.

[KronicRacer]

also two extras things
1. when you get the thread lock make sure to get the blue compound. do not get the red stuff (it will make it hell to take off later on)
2. before you apply the thread lock on the bell housing make sure the threads are clean and have no grease or oil on them (which for some reason they usually do). this will make the thread lock catch/cure better.

[Darkside]

Take it easy on the thread lock though. Don't go overboard or you'll struggle terribly trying to get them off. To make matters worse, many of the tools designed to help get the gears off don't seem to fit the HPI clutchbell. :rolleyes:

[KronicRacer]

all quiet on the eastern front.............

[Saboteur]

I haven't heard much bout the guys racing at my old track in the Brooklyn, NY. I know they still are as well as another one in Queens and Manhatten.

[sasonrally]

Everyone is busy racing and trying to beat the weather since it rains most of the weekends out here.

most of the queens boyz race at Pro Speed in Middletown NY.

[mavrickhunter]

hey everyone just sorry to say I sold my R40. On the good side though is I still have some hop-up parts left behind for sale. Heres a link check it out. Thanks
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177865

[Saboteur]

Anyone still running these? Not to make it sound bad but couple people I know sold their's after spending a good amount just to lighten the vehicle. :confused: I'm still debating between this car and the NTC3. My current RX pack fits only one of the two cars.

[mavrickhunter]

I only sold it b/c I was strpped for cash and I know I could get most of my money back. If I dont sale my parts I plan to buy another one in the future.

[KronicRacer]

score another national win for the r40 :D

[Rookie Solara]

My personal experience.............ditch the whole R40 clutch and get the Mugen one...every small little parts on the Mugne one are better then the HPI one, don't ask me why, but somehow the mugen one works better without 1 single problem....and they are not that expansive...I think the whole syntec is about $35. 0.8 gears are $11-12 each.

[Saboteur]

Wow. That surprisingly cheap for a centax. They usually go for $90-$100+ on other cars.

[Rookie Solara]

Wow. That surprisingly cheap for a centax. They usually go for $90-$100+ on other cars.

Go to www.ashfordhobby.com when you look at their price list of the Mugen MTX3 syntec set, it is like $36, but that does not come with any pinion gear at all (each one is like 10-11 a piece)........so all you have to pick are the 0.8 module's pinion gear (make sure it is 0.8 not the regular 1.0)....use 22/28 just like HARA did.......(I think he was using 22/28T, I think..)

[KronicRacer]

he used a 21-28

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/haranatsr40_setup.jpg

[bigbank]

Are the 0.8 are better or the 1.0 for top speed. i have the green pinions and i want to know what gears to run for top end speed????

[Rookie Solara]

he used a 21-28

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/haranatsr40_setup.jpg

Thanks Kronic..............also, I heard there is a something called Japanese Spec R40 2004 with more upgrade on the R40...I forgot where I saw that from, I think I heard that from THAD, Team HPI USA driver...

[Rookie Solara]

Are the 0.8 are better or the 1.0 for top speed. i have the green pinions and i want to know what gears to run for top end speed????

0.8 pitch is the pitch %...it is like 20% less (= 80%) FINER then the original 1.0 module.........rule of thumb, the finner the tooth, the more LOW_END punch will generate to the gearbox (thats why electric and 12th scale use 64 pitch gears...)

From those who used the 0.8 module, even the GEAR RATIO shown it is slower then the original 1.0, but the car is faster, and more punch then the 1.0........

So, if you can get that, get that........it is a proved MUST HAVE item from HARA and the ppl that used it....

My Nitro season is over....so I will wait untill winter time and do the upgrade, who knows, it might be something NEW coming up from HPI in the near future.

[Saboteur]

Hey Rookie, I'm still up between the NTC3 and R40. I have the money for both now, but the R40 requires a new rx pack since I use a hump pack. I also have the THS pipe, though I've heard the stock one on the AE works fine. BTW its either car, or buy myself a bench press set, metal dumbells and a bike pump at Modells. HELP QUICK! I must be ready by tomorrow since I need to get there as soon as they open and make my bus back in time for work at 12am. The bus usually runs on an hourly schedule.

[Saboteur]

BTW the store opens at 10am. My bus drops me there 2 mins after the hr and the next bus I think is 10:15 or something like that.

[bigbank]

is anyone out there running a 42 tooth gear in there r40???? if so what pinions are you running????????? :cool: :confused: and most important what first gear are you running?????

[starman76]

Hey all I have a RS4 3 Type SS w/ the stock 12R SS motor and was wanting to put the R40 clutch system on it has any one had any luck with this or will it not work. The HPI site exploded view shows 2 different part #'s for the pilot nut one being for use with a standard shaft and the other for a SG shaft #'s 87093 & 87092.

Thanks all

[KronicRacer]

Hey all I have a RS4 3 Type SS w/ the stock 12R SS motor and was wanting to put the R40 clutch system on it has any one had any luck with this or will it not work. The HPI site exploded view shows 2 different part #'s for the pilot nut one being for use with a standard shaft and the other for a SG shaft #'s 87093 & 87092.

Thanks all

there is a centax available from hot bodies check out the nitro 3 forum for more information. the downside is you do need a sg shaft motor for it.

the pilot nut from the r40 does fit but there is a special bearing that is needed for it. ive given up on searching for that bearing until i can get an sg crank for the fantom motor on my n3. once that happens it will make everything much easier for the centax to fit