HPI R40 forum

[KronicRacer]

Hey Rookie, I'm still up between the NTC3 and R40. I have the money for both now, but the R40 requires a new rx pack since I use a hump pack. I also have the THS pipe, though I've heard the stock one on the AE works fine. BTW its either car, or buy myself a bench press set, metal dumbells and a bike pump at Modells. HELP QUICK! I must be ready by tomorrow since I need to get there as soon as they open and make my bus back in time for work at 12am. The bus usually runs on an hourly schedule.


i would say r40. but then it comes down to what does you lhs carry more of? AE or HPI?

[Saboteur]

Actually they carry both...well, more for the AE right now and basic things for the HPI, but they can still get more R40 stuff. I'm only leanin to the AE since I can just slap my RX pack in there. R40 requires the flat pack, but I can use my THS pipe on it.

[Saboteur]

After threads of blabbing, I finally got it. LOL. Got it when onroad season is over...hahaha. Still got it though didn't I? You can never be too late. :p ;)

[TJNMT]

some quick questions, I just bought Rookies R40, and some upgrades I plan to start off with are the lightwieght chassis and graphite battery plate. Since dinball is very popular, but I have never order nothing from overseas which as great prices. How reliable are they and what time frame are you getting your parts in?
Also if you have any us sites that you like to order R40 parts from.

thanks for any replies

[KronicRacer]

i use this site alot http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/ five days on priority shipping and have only had 1 item on back order but that was for my G4

and also the border http://shop.the-border.nl/ same time frame for shipping like rc model, have had no back order items

[Jetskiboy77]

I haven't heard much bout the guys racing at my old track in the Brooklyn, NY. I know they still are as well as another one in Queens and Manhatten.

Where in Brooklyn would that be?


most of the queens boyz race at Pro Speed in Middletown NY.

Where is Middletown?

[Saboteur]

The track is called Floyd Bennett Field. It's located about 15min(walking) prob 5 mins (driving) from Kings Plaza. You can take the B41 bus or the Greenline bus there. I use to check with Brooklyn Hobbies or Bruckners to see if the guys are going there. Races are usually held every Saturday/Sunday. www.queensunitedrc.com is another place to go. Things really improved over there since the last time I wanted to visit.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats why I asked, cause I thought it was Floyd Benett. I go to Brooklyn to go mess around on that track once and awhile. Theres some cool people there. And Brooklyn Hobbies is one of my hobby shops.

[Saboteur]

I use to go to AHC in Manhatten and East Coast Hobbies. Never got to visit brooklyn hobbies yet. Floyd is a cool place though.

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah it is, its a cool track with some very helpful people. Shoot down to Brooklyn Hobbies next time your there, its like 5 minutes from Floyd and its a pretty good shop.

[Saboteur]

That will be a while before I head anywhere near down there. Busy bashing in Port Chester. Plenty of onroad space here so I can challenge who ever comes upon my path. MUahahahaha. :cool:

[Nexus]

I posted earlier and some people wanted to see the actual shirt before they placed an order so here's the pic.

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isla/hpi_pro4/hpi_racer_shirt_2.jpg

A bunch of the HPI guys have bought them and I'll do a second run if enough people are interetested....email me if you are at anthony.isla@comcast.net

[the-one1]

Does the 2 speed hub in the R40 have a one way?
The instructions dont mention anything about it and the 1st gear doesnt stay on.

[Saboteur]

It has a one way bearing, yes. Just tighten that purple hex screw down tightly with the included plastic wrench. After that it will not come off. Make sure the whole 2speed spur assembly on the shaft is in proper order.

[the-one1]

Mine didnt come with a one way bearing, called HPI and a new part is on the way.

[sasonrally]

Where in Brooklyn would that be?

Where is Middletown?


Dude!! Middletown is upstate NY. About 1 hour from the Tri-State Area.
If you live in NY, NJ, CT you can probably hit this track during the season come April. Their program is great.

Here is a link ot their site Middletown site (http://www.prospeedrcraceway.com/)

[Saboteur]

Dude!! Middletown is upstate NY. About 1 hour from the Tri-State Area.
If you live in NY, NJ, CT you can probably hit this track during the season come April. Their program is great.

Here is a link ot their site Middletown site (http://www.prospeedrcraceway.com/)

Know how far that is from Port Chester, NY? I still won't be visiting any tracks till I get a real car. R40 is ready for action though.

[performula]

Well I went ahead and bought an R40/.12XS/3PM (with all the Monster truck threads I typed about.) Is the R40 and the Nitro Star XS.12 a good set-up? I have new bodies and tires left over from my NRS42 and my Serpent Impulse so I decided to go onroad. Any comments about the car up to date?

[Saboteur]

The car is really great out of the box. I heard the steering bellcrank upgrade is a good thing to get as it makes the steering smoother. It's a set of bearings and its for about $13. You only need to use the lighter parts if you want to do some serious racing. However I think the car would look cool with all Titanium screws. The XS12 seems like a pretty good engine. I forgot which magazine tested the R40 with it. They said it has pretty good torque all around the powerband and good top end. What exhaust system are you using? Pay close attention to the manual and read everything carefully. If you put something on wrong it will be you longer to finish the car as you have to undo what was just done.

[performula]

I have not selected an exhaust system yet. I have not purchased a starter box nor a battery pack for the 3PM. How much lighter does the car need to be? Is this car lighter than the original Impulse? That baby was heavy.

For now I need, recommendations (?):

exhaust system
starter box
rechargeable pack for transmitter

[the-one1]

Got an R40 for x-mas, and I'm leaning towards an OS .18 CV-R instead of the .12xs due to the fact that I dont race and there are no tracks around here. If there was, I'd go for the .12. Cant wait till spring to get the engine and starter box to make then darn thing run. It looks fast just sitting here, but hope its fast when it runs :).

[Saboteur]

I don't remember the weight of the car exactly, but others said a stock R40 is heavier than the NTC3 for sure and the Serpent 710. Weight measurement is in grams. Don't worry about that at the moment. The weight people blab about isn't a big issue unless you were racing against big time winning drivers at a Nationals or Ifmar race. For exhaust system people pick Novarossi, RB, RD logics, and Mugen. For starter box, I use the cheap 10th scale one. You can use it for 8th scales although it says only for 10th. Dual motors put out the same torque as a single motor, but less RPM. An Ofna 1400NIMH Flatpack powers my servos. 2100NIMH AAs are in my transmitter. BTW, the R40 ONLY uses flat packs. Lasts a bit longer than the 1200NIMH.

The-one1- The OS .18cvr has good torque. It's about the same as the RS12 when it first came out except I don't think it will wind upto 37k RPM. May get liek 35-36k. As far as the powercurve I doubt they are similiar; can only say the HP is about the same.

[the-one1]

3 reason why the .18cvr is for me:
1. cheap
2. torque, so I can gear higher
3. not racing :)
RS12? link?
You can use a AAA batt pack with the R40 like Hara did. Its lighter. Duratrax has a cheap starter box on towers, thats the one I've been eyeing.

[performula]

3 reason why the .18cvr is for me:
1. cheap
2. torque, so I can gear higher
3. not racing :)
RS12? link?
You can use a AAA batt pack with the R40 like Hara did. Its lighter. Duratrax has a cheap starter box on towers, thats the one I've been eyeing.

I thought the .18CV-R was side exhaust?

[Saboteur]

It is an side exhaust engine. I forgot that it WONT fit in the R40. The R40 only works with rear exhaust engines. Guess you've lucked out dude :(. If you want you can get the OS .12TR for $120. That or the HPI XS .12 engine. I'll get a new engine for my car around spring time.

[the-one1]

One reason why its NOT for me
1. Side exhaust!!!!!
Darn, I was soooooo set on getting it too. thnx guys.

[Saboteur]

NP. If it was a Kyosho VoneR, then you'd be able to. Anyway bag an OS.12TR or you can find some other rear exhaust engine.

[KronicRacer]

^^that or a yokomo gt4^^

[the-one1]

I was thinking, couldnt I use the header for the super rs4 or gt4 with a side exhaust? Or will the header hit something on the car?

[Saboteur]

Naw, it won't fit. It will interfere with the belts still. Just find yourself a nice rear exhaust engine. That way, you will not only be race legal, but fast at the same time. Besides the .18cvr is mostly torque and has some good RPM..upto 35k I believe.

[delphidude]

i know of a header where he could use the side exhaust.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNK4&P=7

[HKS]

I am starting to get fed up with the clutch in the R40, I have rebuilt it numerous times and the problem persists. Every time i set the clutch to engage at a certain time it will do so and then begin to slip, when I open up the clutch to see what the problem is the adjustment nut is screwed all the way down. I have tried using 2 types of locktite and nothing holds it in place. I don't think I should have to use locktite in the first place because this clutch shoud be ADJUSTABLE. Has anyone had this problem or can help?

[the-one1]

i know of a header where he could use the side exhaust.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNK4&P=7

I seen that one too, but for the price, its not worth it. A cheap two piece rd logics pipe is already at $40.

[performula]

When putting the two-speed together, should the nuts that hold the spur gears on/in their housings be thread locked since it's metal on metal? The instructions said nothing about threadlock at that section.

[Saboteur]

I didn't, but for safety just use a tiny amount on the screw since there is little threading.

[Saboteur]

Anyone getting their rides ready for spring?

[performula]

Anyone getting their rides ready for spring?

Yes, once I receive my thrust bearing that HPI said they shipped. I thought I was stupid because it was missing the bearing that keeps the second gear on the shaft by an E-clip. I dug through each and every bag, finally I called and said that there had to be a part missing and that it was hard for me to explain the problem over the phone...he knew exactly what I was missing. "You're missing the thrust bearing that centers the two speed housing on the shaft."

It's funny now, but not a week ago. I hope I get the bearing soon.

[the-one1]

performula: You talking about the spur gears or pinions?
If its the 2spd spur gears, then its a ONE WAY. Thrust bearing is on the clutch. Mine was missing the one way. They sent a replacememtn and I got it one week later. No fun when you expect to finish building the car and one important piece is missing :(

[performula]

performula: You talking about the spur gears or pinions?
If its the 2spd spur gears, then its a ONE WAY. Thrust bearing is on the clutch. Mine was missing the one way. They sent a replacememtn and I got it one week later. No fun when you expect to finish building the car and one important piece is missing :(

Shoot. It was the spur gear side of the transmission, I think I explained that to him though. Hmm, maybe he got confused on what he was explaining to me? I'll find out soon enough.

[the-one1]

If its not the right part, just tell them the part number, cause the bearing can't be bought separately. It comes with a new purple gear holder.

[josh222]

I have a quick question, in the pic i am showing how wid is the area in red? how many MM across?

[Saboteur]

Are you trying to fit it on the SS josh? If so, don't bother. Pivot ball suspension is great, but it's a bit complicated. Those clips are used to provide you with more accurate measure instead of just using a caliper to find out each side. The holes for the pivotballs are pre-made so you won't be able to use it.

[Saboteur]

Anyway, the measurement should be about 3/4's of an inch.

[KronicRacer]

he should just wait for the stage d conversion for the nitro 3. instead of grafting the arms

[performula]

I'm almost done building the kit - radio gear, linkage, and clutch. Oh, I have to buy a new glow wrench with a 10mm socket for the clutch assembly. Other than that particular nut and a battery charge I would have been running the car.

The kit is fairly easy to build and the adjustment numbers are evenly set ( no 7.42368mm requirements.) The one thing that I hate universally are shocks, the worst part putting them on. For the life of me I tried to use pliers clamping the shocks on to the arms without imbedding the teeth in the arms/ball ends, well I did, never fails. And yes I tried covering the teeth with no luck.

[Saboteur]

This is for the R40 I assume right?

[performula]

Yes sir.

[Saboteur]

Cool. I was told by FT HPI racer about what upgrades he believes is beneficial for the R40 and plan on getting them. My car will be even faster than before with no new engine or pipe. :) New handling, gearing, etc.

[Saboteur]

EDIT* Response wise a tad bit quicker, but with the .8module gears due to the pitch it's proven to offer more top end with the same gearing I believe.

[ALJR]

any one know exactly what options come with the "2004" edition R40 and where i could get one at a resoanble price?

this is what i am pretty sure comes on it:
Super chassis
LW 2spd shaft
LW main shaft
LW carbon fiber upper deck
TI screw set
carbon fiber front/rear shock towers
0.8 LW 2spd
steering bearings
motor mounts
wheel hex's

any one know if the front one-way and 4-bevel gear rear diff is also part of the package?

any help would be great:)

[Saboteur]

Pretty much all the upgrades Hara used on the HPI site is what's offered on the spec version. I believe it does come with the one way diff, but not sure of the 4 gear bevel diff. This is the gear set you want. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWX3&P=7

The stock one has 4 bevel gears, but only 2 spider gears. That one above adds two more.

[ALJR]

wouldn't happen to know where i could get one on line? preferably from a US store?

[Saboteur]

Not really in the US. I think www.rcmart.com has them.

[ALJR]

Not really in the US. I think www.rcmart.com has them.

it seems rcmart is the only online store that has them.. too bad they charge $50 for shipping alone!

[Saboteur]

Not sure about anywhere else. It's about the price of a Mugen MTX-3 just to give you an idea. You're better off buying an R40 kit, sell the stock stuff, and get the upgrades. LOL.

[ALJR]

if i were to buy all the upgrades seperate from the kit, it would cost well over $300... gotta love how HPI does business!

[Saboteur]

Basically you DONT need all that stuff. The oneway diff and rear axle are for those large tracks. It will make your car a bit more loose and that you don't want. The only stuff you will really benefit from are the graphite brace, light weight 2speed shafts, .8 module gears (light weight 2speed), and graphite shock towers. That's all you really need.

[ALJR]

parts im really interested in are
fornt one-way
CF f/r shock towers & side brace
bb steering
LW shafts
chassis.. i have always liked hpi's super chassis..

who know though.. maybe ill pick up the kyosho rrr

[Saboteur]

I got myself the LW 2speed and LW shafts. Really makes a big difference. You don't need the triple R, even if you are just starting out in racing. Plenty people run R40s and NTC3s with other cars no problem. I like the R40 because of its looks, ease to work on, and low price.

[ALJR]

i currently have 8nitro r/c's. so i am far from starting out :)

my current on-roads are:
hpi type ss, loaded...
associated ntc3, also loaded
hpi r40, basically stock + threaded shocks

the type ss and ntc3 i was racing last summer and the r40 i just picked up a few weeks ago and havent had a chance to race.. but i was basically wondering if i should sell my non-04 r40 for a quick $150 and use that toards the purchase of an "04" kit from asia... seems like i would make out better in the long run if i did..

other cars i own:
kanai II
savage
lst
nmt .25 :)
ofna 9.5 mbx converted to blazer sst

[Saboteur]

You can if you wanted, but I'd only get it if you are seriously racing or just want an upgraded car. I love my car stock the way it is and only have two upgrades on it. They totally make a difference.

[ALJR]

thanks for your help saboteur... i have decided to sell my r40 and dish out the extra for the "04" edition.. im listing it on ebay tonight.. hoping to get at least $150 for the roller, we'll see :) im selling the roller with the upgraded threaded aluminum shocks, two sets of almost new foams and a body.. the car is mint, think it will fetch around $150?

[mavrickhunter]

I'll take it for 150. shipped if you would

[ALJR]

I'll take it for 150. shipped if you would

its on ebay.. if your interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44015&item=5958502789&rd=1

[Saboteur]

Hey ALJR, I didn't know you are running the MT12 and THS pipe as well. :) Only difference is my MT12 hasn't had as much fuel gone through it. I'm using a Futaba 3PDFX system and have a skyline body on the car. :)

[ALJR]

looks like my twin :)

whats the deal with that brake rod & fuel tubbing? looks like over kill.. or are you having problems with your brake dragging (as i did)? im planning on installing a ball bearing around the brake cam on my new car, to reduce friction while braking..

what do you think of the THS pipe? perfroms great, dosn't it! Have you had any problems with sand/pebbles getting into your belts etc.? how preped. is the track you run on? I never had any serious issued running in the parking garage. but am conserned about the sandy parking lots after the winters over...

I gotta tell ya, i really like the R40's layout and design.. I was seriouslly looking at the K-RRR & mtx3, But don't really care for the receiver being mounted above the radio tray on the RRR & the off-set fuel tank on the mtx3 kinda turns me off!

[Saboteur]

looks like my twin :)

whats the deal with that brake rod & fuel tubbing? looks like over kill.. or are you having problems with your brake dragging (as i did)? im planning on installing a ball bearing around the brake cam on my new car, to reduce friction while braking..

what do you think of the THS pipe? perfroms great, dosn't it! Have you had any problems with sand/pebbles getting into your belts etc.? how preped. is the track you run on? I never had any serious issued running in the parking garage. but am conserned about the sandy parking lots after the winters over...

I gotta tell ya, i really like the R40's layout and design.. I was seriouslly looking at the K-RRR & mtx3, But don't really care for the receiver being mounted above the radio tray on the RRR & the off-set fuel tank on the mtx3 kinda turns me off!

Naw, I just like the looks and many people I run with have it set like that. No problems with dragging brakes. Only tip is just to set the linkages up properly. When I revved the engine for a bit after I installed the LW shafts and LW 2speed, it sounded even higher that before honestly. Together they all seem to work in Harmony. As for debris, I never had a problem like that ever even when running in slightly littered area's. In the past I also had my nitro sedan stuck in the dirt or ran through some natural debris and that didn't foul a thing. Usually mother nature takes care of the parkinglots around here. Otherwise, I run my car a little higher off the ground; it's currently 9mm all around. The track is really just a parkinglot, but even the 8th scalers never complained about debris.

[mr.fury]

whats up guys..

I have a Kyosho V-one RR. It has some hop-ups and all those goodies on it. As far as Diffs, I have a Front One-Way and a Gear Diff in the Rear with Stock oil. It seems to work Great. But i am afraid that I am loosing ground power. The engine I have installed is the rare Mugen X-12 which kicks a**. I had it clocked in the car at speed over 70mph. I know all the info on the solid rear axles and the other typed of diffs, but I am looking for imput from other Racers who have a solid rear axle installed. IF YOU COULD EXPLAIN TO ME IF YOU NOTICED THE POWER DIFFERENCE AND THE CORNING SPEED DIFFERENCES AND ALL THE CHANGES...AND IF YOU REGRET REPLACING IT WHEN YOU DID.

THANKS

[Saboteur]

I would only use them on a large track. If it's small I stay with gear diffs. On a larger open area with more wider turns it is noticable for the car to be faster and you are able to carry more speed.

[dbecker08]

hi, i have a question about the clutch. i cant seem to get it to work. i have the nut and spring very loose, and i have a lot of shims in place, and the clutch doesnt seem to engage untill about half throttle. i dont know what else to do, if anyone has any idea pls help! thanks

[ALJR]

hi, i have a question about the clutch. i cant seem to get it to work. i have the nut and spring very loose, and i have a lot of shims in place, and the clutch doesnt seem to engage untill about half throttle. i dont know what else to do, if anyone has any idea pls help! thanks

is it properlly gaped? sounds like the gap between the clutch shoe and clutch bell is to great.. either that, or try to losen the spring some more..

[Saboteur]

Nvm, I helped him out already :).

[BOWTIE1]

sup all r40 ppl i just got my new r40 .... and i am new to onroad antthing i need to know ? i been running off road

[ALJR]

sup all r40 ppl i just got my new r40 .... and i am new to onroad antthing i need to know ? i been running off road


setup is ALOT more important/noticable than it is on an off road truck..

[Jetskiboy77]

is it properlly gaped? sounds like the gap between the clutch shoe and clutch bell is to great.. either that, or try to losen the spring some more..


I also think the gap between the clutch shoes and the bell is too large. I had problems with my centax engaging way too late and thats what the problem was.

[Saboteur]

sup all r40 ppl i just got my new r40 .... and i am new to onroad antthing i need to know ? i been running off road

As said, very different than nitro onroad. It's faster, quicker, and setup counts just as much.

[performula]

Wait...there's an '04 version of the R40? What's thedifference between the '03 and '04?

[Saboteur]

They said a newer R40 comes with the updated fuel tank. I think thats about it. There is also a race version with all the upgrades on it. Still the regular kit is a great car and will hang with the other boys as they too need upgrades for high level racing. No one I know runs a box stock serpent or even mugen kit unless they got the pro spec versions. MY R40 does great with just the LW 2speed and shafts. Gonna go test out some new adjustments I've done in a bit if I have time.

[ALJR]

Wait...there's an '04 version of the R40? What's thedifference between the '03 and '04?


the "04" version is only sold over seas in asia.. its a "full spec" version of the standard US kit..

[josh222]

so what version will be avalible by lets say the end of augest?

[Saboteur]

No new versions really. They will stay as is, unless HPI decides to make a version with some of the upgrades on it. Either way you won't need all of the upgrades unless you are doing big racing. The solid rear axle and one way make the car a handful to drive especially with less braking. Some swear by putting teh axle in the front makes it great. You can enjoy the car bone stock with no upgrades. It's great for messin around and racin.

[ALJR]

so what version will be avalible by lets say the end of augest?

ya, no new kits are available here in the US so what is available now is what your stuck with.. unless you buy the 04 kit on-line from asia

BTW, i contacted HPI, as of 2 or 3 weeks ago, they had NO plans of offering the 04 kit here in the states!

visit HPI Japan if you want to know more about the 04 kit, but its kinda hard to navigate not knowing the language (just look at the pics)..

[Saboteur]

Actually the 04 is the same R40 kit, but it has the newer fuel tank and the 4 spider gears in the rear. It's not the upgraded kit. Thats a whole different version.

[ALJR]

Actually the 04 is the same R40 kit, but it has the newer fuel tank and the 4 spider gears in the rear. It's not the upgraded kit. Thats a whole different version.

PN: 30822, R40 2004 KIT (or "2004 edition") "IS" the full-spec Asain version! duno what your refering to? I never heard the American R40 kit refered to as an "04" version... The US kits are just know as R40?!

[josh222]

so do you think a R40 with a .12R XS in it will be fast?

[Saboteur]

Yes it will be fast. They tested the R40 in a mag with that HPI engine.

ALJR-some other site doesn't show the R40 with all the upgrades, but has it as an 04'. Must be an error or something I guess, but not totally sure.

[josh222]

what was it like in the testings? any speed tests? also i think i am probaly going to get a RD Logics pipe set for it

[ALJR]

what was it like in the testings? any speed tests? also i think i am probaly going to get a RD Logics pipe set for it

If your interested, i have a very nice THS one-piece pipe
it this one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX2&P=7

I could do it for $45 shipped (lower 48 only)
it is used, but in near perfect condition.. no dents, couple of small surface scratches on the bottom (not visible when installed) and it still has its luster.. it was only used while i was setting up my car, befor i sold the car and kept the engine/pipe.. if your seriouslly interested i could post a pic 4 ya

[josh222]

i don't have the money for the car yet, maybe in july. My LHS gets RDstuff so i might get this pipe..

[Brahmzy]

Hi,

I'm about to buy a good 1/10 scale on-road racer to race with. Money is not really a concern, I just want a good car that I don't have to buy a bunch of crap to make it run/handle well. Years ago, the good cars were the Impulses. Racer's out of the box. I made the mistake of buying an HPI and converting it to a Racer2 and spent a lot of money. It didn't even come close in performance to the other on-roaders out there.

How's the R40? Should I buy an MTX3? TC3? R40? If money was not a concern, what you would ya'll own? If you could start all over again?

I'm just kinda leary of HPI in this arena. They make great products and I own a bunch of 'em, but I want the cutting edge 1/10 car to race with.

Thanks for any advice!!

[Saboteur]

Hi,

I'm about to buy a good 1/10 scale on-road racer to race with. Money is not really a concern, I just want a good car that I don't have to buy a bunch of crap to make it run/handle well. Years ago, the good cars were the Impulses. Racer's out of the box. I made the mistake of buying an HPI and converting it to a Racer2 and spent a lot of money. It didn't even come close in performance to the other on-roaders out there.

How's the R40? Should I buy an MTX3? TC3? R40? If money was not a concern, what you would ya'll own? If you could start all over again?

I'm just kinda leary of HPI in this arena. They make great products and I own a bunch of 'em, but I want the cutting edge 1/10 car to race with.

Thanks for any advice!!

The R40 steps up higher above all other HPI nitro sedans. None of them come close even after modification. It's awesome out of the box and doesn't cost a lot. It will hang with any car out there given the fact the driver has skill. You can run an R40 bone stock and win a race, run an MTX3 stock and win a race, or maybe a ntc3 stock and win (not really with the NTC3, but its possible). Either car I've seen people got upgrades for. Pretty much if you want the R40 to improve performance, the lw 2speed and shafts for a total of $85 will take a bit off the drivetrain. There is one available for the Mugen also. Smaller teeth for more tuning options while offering less weight for quick acceleration. Those are the only upgrades I have on it now and I enjoy bashing and lil parking lot racing. I went with it, because it's inexpensive for the kit as well as parts. Mugen is nice, but parts are expensive too. Also I wouldn't be racing a stock Mugen anyway. I'd have to either get the kit with upgrades or something like that. It depends on the level of racing you do. You don't need everything to win a race. Try the car out stock and then see what stuff can you do to it to make it perform better.

[Brahmzy]

Cool, thanks for the info. Sounds like a great car. What race-legal engines are most of you running?

[Saboteur]

I run an MT12. Other guys use RB V12s, Sirios, Wasp, NS12s, and one runs an Palmaris engine. Turbo plugs are now legal, but 5 ports are still outlawed. Btw the 04 version is NOT the one with the upgrades. He said,

I am quite sure that there is only 1 version of the 2004 Kit. The 2004 Kit is available in Asia only. There are 3 versions of the non 2004 Kit, Europe, Asia and US. The Aisa kit comes with a oneway and alloy shocks, the other two come with plastic shocks and a front diff and different shore tires. The R40 can handle the biggest horsepower motor I have thrown at it, it should be fine.
Here is a price for R 40 and 2004 edition.

R40 Standard kit Standard price 33600Yen Discount price 23600Yen
R40 Racing kit Standard price 41790Yen Discount price 29300Yen
R40 2004 kit Standard price 47250Yen Discount price 33100Yen

So, perhaps the racing kit is not the 2004 edition...
2004 Kit (Asia only), the standard kit is non 2004 and has a front diff and plastic shocks (only version sold in US and Europe), racing kit is oneway and alloy shocks (Asia only).

[ALJR]

well that clears things up :confused:

[josh222]

what is a good exhaust for the R40 not to costly like no more than 60USD

[Saboteur]

I got my THS pipe for about $45 at this LHS here. Pretty much that or that HPI pipe, paris turbo, and an rd logics pipe.

[Brahmzy]

So when the Mugen MTX-3 costs almost $500 and the R40 costs $300, there has to be some major differences. When we talk about weight, how much heavier IS the R40?

[ALJR]

I got my THS pipe for about $45 at this LHS here. Pretty much that or that HPI pipe, paris turbo, and an rd logics pipe.

what hobby shop did you get it at for that price? i don't see any link.. and was it new for that price? if so, thats a great price.. Tower is selling them for $65..

dang, i was asking $45 for my used THS pipe..

[ALJR]

So when the Mugen MTX-3 costs almost $500 and the R40 costs $300, there has to be some major differences. When we talk about weight, how much heavier IS the R40?

your paying for the name mostly.. you could even buy a FULL option r40 overseas for less than the price of most other kits... BTW, the r40 can be purchased on line for under $250 shipped!

not to mention that any hobby shop in the united states CAN get HPI parts.. mugen may be a bit harder to locate parts and that usually means a few bucks more (for, say, suspension arms)..

the weight of touring cars is kinda hard to determin.. you would have to compare roller to roller (no electronics and engine). with that being said, the differance would only be a few grams...

[Saboteur]

It was a LHS here in Portchester, but I was a frequent shopper. Thats why I got it for that price. He wasn't doing much big business either.

[josh222]

at my lhs they have special prices just for me :D i get all sorts of stuff cheaper or at tower prices

[vegasdrift]

On the r40 how often do belts need to be replaced? Also, how long do foam tires last when only driven on a track? If you can could you give your answer in the number of tanks?
Thanks.

[Saboteur]

Longivity of foams depends on car setup, surface bite, shore rating, and how the car is driven. I left my foams out in the air so they dried up and got stuff. When I run now its little wear. Ran through 2 tanks with very little wear on the stock HPI foams. The belts last a long time and only need to be replaced if they are badly worn. They are durable belts.

[vegasdrift]

Would you guys reccomend the r40 over the FT tc3? I race on a fairly large, hot track. If that helps.

I've heard that the r40 is heavy in stock trim. How much heavier is it over other race cars? Is the added weight much of a disadvantage?

[performula]

Would you guys reccomend the r40 over the FT tc3? I race on a fairly large, hot track. If that helps.

I've heard that the r40 is heavy in stock trim. How much heavier is it over other race cars? Is the added weight much of a disadvantage?

The R40 is as close as you can get to 1/8 scale racing. I would bet the Factory Team weighs more after all the aluminum bits.

[ALJR]

the FT is fairly light.. I would have to say a bit lighter than the r40.. as far as racing goes, the r40 will out-perform the tc3 (stock r40/ft tc3).. but then it all comes down to the driver, right :)

r40 = $250
ft tc3 = $325, plus tires, another $40 = $365

thats $115 in performance parts you could add to the r40 to make it lighter AND even faster..

now if we were talking parking lot (un-preped dust/sandy track) racing, i would use the tc3 (shaft drive)..

[Saboteur]

I bash in a semi dusty lot across the street and I've had no problem with the belts. The shaft won't have any advantage as the spur gears can get ruined. Also having a rock lodged next to the shaft will scratch it up pretty good. My friend bashes with a shaft driven car and we so no difference in that department. Our gears are both scratched up. The R40 out of the box will perform better than the NTC3. The AE needs to have a nice setup, but even then some people like the way other cars drive. You can setup two different cars the same way, but they won't handle the same. It's just not possible as the suspension setup is different, therefore you're not able to compare them.

I prefer the HPI over the AE. I like the way it drives and it's very responsive to change in setup. Stock isn't bad at all. Sure it's heavier, but being too heavy and going lighter has a problem. Too heavy and the car will react slower. Too light or going lighter the car will react quick and you will need a new setup so the car's handling will cope with these new settings. My friend is running mostly a stock R40 at our local track and he surprises them with an MT12 under the hood. I'm another MT12 owner that wows the crowd with an old, yet quite powerful engine. I may need a slightly faster engine though, so the RB V12 may provide me with that. Costs a bit yeah, but it's backed by performance.

[rccardude04]

Anyone know FOR A FACT that this manifold will fit the R40?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=72106180+&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
If not, what will hook up to the 12TR that's not an inline type manifold. I have a pipe, just not a manifold. And it uses a coupler for the time being.
Thanks.
-Eric

[vegasdrift]

Thank you for your responses everybody. If I end up getting an onroad the r40 will be my choice.

[Saboteur]

It will hook up fine. The belts run under them no problem and also you will be using the belt tensioner so it will drop the belts quite a bit away from the manifold to prevent interference.

[envelope]

Lets say HPI comes out with a R40 shaft drive later, how compatible do you think it will be with the the current R40 as in changing from belts to shaft like a conversion?

I'm really debating now on either an SS or the R40!

[performula]

I doubt they will change. Belts look like they will be here forever, why change something good?

[Saboteur]

The R40 is a proven performer. They have no need for a shaft driven setup, because Kyosho owns the best shaft driven tourers right now. They will run belts for some time. It's a great car. Also, for all you R40 owners check out integy's R40 parts. Cheaper than HPIs parts, but just as strong.

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=67

For shocks, go with Mugens Gun metal shock sets. They're stronger than HPIs aluminum shocks and are sold for the same price. They are going on my ride soon as well as the integy parts.

[ALJR]

i personally like the tamiya TRF shocks..

rccardude04, that header pipe loks like it should fit fine.. but why spend that much on just a header when you can het a whole one-piece inline pipe for a few bucks more.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX2&P=7

if your interested, i have that pipe above, almost new, for $40 shipped.

[Saboteur]

I agree. The THS is one bad pipe for the buck. It works with many .12s.

[performula]

The R40 is a proven performer. They have no need for a shaft driven setup, because Kyosho owns the best shaft driven tourers right now. They will run belts for some time. It's a great car. Also, for all you R40 owners check out integy's R40 parts. Cheaper than HPIs parts, but just as strong.

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=67

For shocks, go with Mugens Gun metal shock sets. They're stronger than HPIs aluminum shocks and are sold for the same price. They are going on my ride soon as well as the integy parts.

The Mugen shocks for the MTX3 correct?

[performula]

What's the quickest first gear combination? And what's the fastest second gear combination?

[KronicRacer]

any links for the trf or the mugen shocks?

[Saboteur]

Yeah the same mugen shocks for the MTX3. I'll try to find a link for em.
The stock gear ratio works fine for acceleration, but honestly the LW 2speed will less weight spools up as fast as the stock stuff despite the fact the gear ratio is lower.

[Saboteur]

BTW here's the link again for R40 integy parts. My shipment should be in and I'll post a reply about the quality. My friend may have his Rody and serpent pipe along with few parts, but I'll be more blinged :D.

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=67

[KronicRacer]

man that sucks i tried to order the carbon lower mount and carbon steering plate and they were both sold out. :(

[performula]

Yeah the same mugen shocks for the MTX3. I'll try to find a link for em.
The stock gear ratio works fine for acceleration, but honestly the LW 2speed will less weight spools up as fast as the stock stuff despite the fact the gear ratio is lower.

How about a top speed combination?

[Saboteur]

man that sucks i tried to order the carbon lower mount and carbon steering plate and they were both sold out. :(

I ordered a carbon suspension lowermount last week :).

Performula-I gear according to my track size. This a setup of my track. It's very fast. If I get a faster engine like an RB V12 it would be perfect. Something a bit faster would even help. The MT12 is fast no doubt, so for the time being I'll give it a try, but will be changing. Here are the stock ratio's compared to the LW .8module (in stock form) gear ratio.

Stock VS LW

(Stock) 1st gear= 16T/48T-----7.263
(LW gr) 1st gear= 22T/60T-----6.600

(Stock) 2nd gear= 19T/45T-----5.734
(LW gr) 2nd gear= 29T/54T-----4.506

Combine this with BOTH LW shafts and it will be just as fast as the stock gear ratio itself, but with more top end. Make sure you're engine has the power to pull a taller gear ratio otherwise it will be slower to accelerate.

[performula]

I have a TOP .12 so the power should be there; it was the claimed 1.35/1.40 hp run of Novarossi's. I know this is not a value that is universal (HP claim).

The reason I asked is that I want to know how the formula works for gearing; more teeth of either gear does what, making the car quicker or faster?

Example, if I am correct: more pinion teeth on clutch end makes more top speed (large track), less makes the car accelerate more quickly (small track).

[Saboteur]

Yep

Small pinion+large spur= More accel/Less top
Larger pinion+smaller spur=Less accel/More top

The pinion will make more of an effect on the gear ratio so change those first. Spurs make the least bit of an effect so use it for fine tuning. Try the box stock LW 2speed setup for your ride and the LW shafts. I bet that would be awesome to see :).

[Saboteur]

Well I guess the MT12 is going up along with THS Pipe for $120. The LHS will be getting new engines and stuff in soon :). Still have a serious itch for 8th onroad.

[vegasdrift]

I can get a used mugen mtx-3 rolling chassis for $200. It's the non-prospec and has some upgrades. Whould this be better than the r40?

[ALJR]

I can get a used mugen mtx-3 rolling chassis for $200. It's the non-prospec and has some upgrades. Whould this be better than the r40?

I personally like the design and layout of the R40 better.. I also like the fact that the R40 has the fuel tank mounted in the center of the chassis (mtx is off to the side)..

not to mention your paying $200 (duno what the options it has) for a used car and you can get a new R40 shipped for under $250!

[Saboteur]

Regardless of the fuel tank being centered, the MTX-3 fuel tank is more closer to the center than the MTX-2 and any other car. Handling it will run with an R40, but still it's used. Couple bucks more gets you a brand new R40. Here is my R40 now. I may sell the MT12 so if anyone would like an engine let me know.

[ALJR]

the MTX-3 fuel tank is more closer to the center than the MTX-2 and any other car.

any other car? the r40's fuel tank is centered compleatly (left/right, don't mean front/back), no?

[Saboteur]

No I talking about other cars that have the fuel tank mounted to the side. Sry for not making it 2 clear. :)

[performula]

The R40 in my opinion is the best bang for buck "racing" touring car available. At least $150 below the cost of the competition. Yes, the other cars come with a lot of bling and upgrades, but bling can get tarnished. :(

[Saboteur]

That too. The R40 basically benefits from the LW 2speed, LW shafts, graphite shock towers, and steering upgrade. Other things are for fine tuning. Infact you can race with a box stock R40 if you want and do well. That's what I've done.

[performula]

That too. The R40 basically benefits from the LW 2speed, LW shafts, graphite shock towers, and steering upgrade. Other things are for fine tuning. Infact you can race with a box stock R40 if you want and do well. That's what I've done.

What are typical high wear/breakage items?

[jtn]

Just switching over from a NTC3, I noticed there is only 1 setup out there, Hara 2004 ROAR Nats. Any other ones to try or is the stock setup really solid too?

[performula]

Saboteur, what air filter is that on your car? I need to get an airfilter for my Top/Nova .12; everyone says to get an HPI which is supposedly Motor Saver. I have no clue which air filter they are talking about since HPI and MS have a ton of filters.

[jtn]

Also, anyone run a OS TR on an R40?

[Saboteur]

Performula- The average breakage are the front upper/lower and or rear arms. Front bulkhead set, dog bones, and pivot ball hubs. So stock up on those.

JTN- Did you post this question in another forum? If so, the TR isn't really underpowered. It's close to an MT12, but it just revs slightly slower. The MT12 has the advantage all the way around from start to finish. It will pull the car pretty great. I recommend the first upgrades on the car to be the LW 2speed and LW shafts. Both will reduce a lot off the drivetrain so the car will rev faster. Also the LW stock gearing is much lower than stock so it will give you more top end. It will be just as fast..if not faster than the stock gearing despite the lower gear ratio. The reason why is that you are reducing the weight off the drivetrain allowing the engine to do less work. I havent tested this as yet though, because my friend got his LW also for his R40 while we share a similiar setup. IMO though, the LW is the way to go.

[jtn]

Yeah, I did post it on RC Tech too. I bought the car used it already has the lw gearing upgrade. I thought the TRs would be ok, but had been told I may want more power than that. Thanks.

[Saboteur]

Unless the track is small, you'd definately want more power than that. I am now officially the owner of the RB V12 Rody Roem 3 port standard SG shaft engine. $340 flat for it and a gallon of Odonnel fuel.

[jtn]

Thanks. The straight is 140ft. I think I am going to run it till the new OS Tz is released here in the states.

[Saboteur]

You should be fine then. My straight is pushing 250. No way a regular .12TR would be enough. It was tried and failed.

[performula]

Saboteur, what cheap (cost effective) Nova/TOP .12 air filter do you recommend?

[Saboteur]

Ellegi air filters are cheap and work great. Some of the high end .12s have .21 size carbs so you will need em. They work great.

[FlyingDog]

Hi,
It seems that I have one of the problem that has been reported in page 43. I can not find the harware (including an one way bearing) to attach spur for 1st gear to the shaft in the kit.

I have opened all the bag to search for it. But before I call HPI, you clould help me to make sure that I am not asking for a parts that I have. Can anyone give me any clue including:

which bag is the hardware in? Which other parts were in the bag?

How do the hardware look? Is it one way alone, or is there anyghing more?

Is the hardware mentioned in the manual? Which page is it?

Do you have a picture of the hardware that you can show me?

Thanks for your help.

[performula]

Yes, it is not uncommon for the bearing to be missing from the purple housing. I purchased my kit and it was missing. HPI sent out the part and I had roughly two weeks of downtime. I think it is called a thrust bearing; not a one-way bearing. Regardless, he will know what you are talking about because I gave the vaguest description and the person knew exactly what I was explaining to him.

If it was in the kit, it would be placed where it is supposed to be installed. The photo shows the part installed on the side profile photos on the left side column, where it illustrates what parts are needed to complete that step. You will need to call HPI.

[performula]

Are there any other options for the circular clutch spring (part #87097)? I tried to install mine and it separated and stretched while installing. Can I use an alternative?

I have a Top/Nova .12 with an SG shaft...how shall I install the shims for the shaft/clutch? This is very confusing. If I cure a problem I bump into another trying to fully build the kit. :)

[Saboteur]

Flyindog-Where did you get your R40 from? MY friend had that problem when he ordered from BRuckner Hobbies. THey keep screwing up his stuff therefore I go to my LHS, because I get exactly what I want with no problem. The oneway should be installed in that metal piece to

Performula-there is only the replacement spring. How'd you manage to bend it? LOl. Just press the spring in with your thumb into the groove of two weights and carefully push it onto the other side. It's really easy to install. For your engine, the only way of knowing is to try it. I installed a big washer before I put the collet on. Basically took the same setup from my MT12 and slapped it on the Rody. The crankshafts are all the same so find a nice washer to toss on there before the collet goes on, and then you can probably use the shims in this setup starting from the engine copper/silver/copper/silver. When you tug outward on the CB, it should only move very slightly. If it moves a lot, you will need another shim.

***ATTEN R40 OWNERS***

On the flywheel the pegs may stick out after installing the clutch shoe. These will come in contact with the CB as well as the show so carefully use a dremel and grind them down. This will ensure the shoe is the only thing touching the CB.

[performula]

Saboteur,

I could not get the spring to fully expand into the clutch grooves, so I tried to stretch it a tad and it got all messed up. My engine came with a collet installed, so a washer cannot be installed on the shaft, that collet is not going to move, tried it already.

[Saboteur]

You couldnt? Man it must be the wrong spring. Mine went in really easily. There should be some tension and you just roll it over the grooves. The collet is super easy to move. Thats why they put that slit in there. Simply stick a flathead screwdriver in there and take it off. :)

[KronicRacer]

the sequence sab is talking about is washer, collet then the flywheel then the rest of the clutch

[jtn]

Anyone recommend upgrading to aluminum shocks and if so which ones?

[performula]

Performula-there is only the replacement spring. How'd you manage to bend it? LOl. Just press the spring in with your thumb into the groove of two weights and carefully push it onto the other side. It's really easy to install. For your engine, the only way of knowing is to try it. I installed a big washer before I put the collet on. Basically took the same setup from my MT12 and slapped it on the Rody. The crankshafts are all the same so find a nice washer to toss on there before the collet goes on, and then you can probably use the shims in this setup starting from the engine copper/silver/copper/silver. When you tug outward on the CB, it should only move very slightly. If it moves a lot, you will need another shim.

***ATTEN R40 OWNERS***

On the flywheel the pegs may stick out after installing the clutch shoe. These will come in contact with the CB as well as the show so carefully use a dremel and grind them down. This will ensure the shoe is the only thing touching the CB.

I assume I would use the same set-up (shims/washers) for my engine since it is a Nova .12 also. The LHS here has one spring left so I will take my engine and clutch assembly in to have him help me since I have no finesse, which is obvious.

That is true about the flywheel and am glad you adressed this. I was looking and spining the clutchbell back and forth realized that this had to be incorrect since the metal prongs contacted the metal clutchbell.

[FlyingDog]

Hi, performula and Saboteur

Thanks for your comments. I went to the LHS where I bought the R40 from. As you guys suggested, it was the one-way bearing missing from the part that hold the 1st gear.

They had ordered the parts for me, and It seems that I can get it before the weekend.

Thanks, again, for your help.
I can not wait to race my R40.

[Saboteur]

Anyone recommend upgrading to aluminum shocks and if so which ones?

I would recommend the Mugen shocks for the MTX-3. They are gun metal and way stronger than the HPI Alum shocks. The price are about the same, but this you'd have to check at your LHS. Tower doesn't have a lot of mugen stuff.

[jtn]

Thanks. I have a few friends who run mugens and can tell me where to get parts.

[StupidERAUPilot]

I have been out of R/C for a while (I bought a JRxs3 the first day I could, I raced my TC3 with it that weekend and everything has been in a box since then). I am interested in buying an r40 to re-enter the hobby, but have little experience with Nitro. I have been racing a loaner car (An old HIP RS4 2) with a club at my college, but am looking to get my own car again. There are 2 guys with r40's at the club who really like them, and I am pretty set on getting one myself. I do however have a few questions, mostly about the engine:

What engine should I get? I am looking at the o.s. .12tr as well as getting the duratrax universal started box.

What pipe/header should I get? (totally clueless on this one)

Will foams hold up on normal asphalt? (The seface we run on is a newly paved parking lot, we throughly sweep/ blow all the dust of it before using it).

Thanks

[Saboteur]

I have been out of R/C for a while (I bought a JRxs3 the first day I could, I raced my TC3 with it that weekend and everything has been in a box since then). I am interested in buying an r40 to re-enter the hobby, but have little experience with Nitro. I have been racing a loaner car (An old HIP RS4 2) with a club at my college, but am looking to get my own car again. There are 2 guys with r40's at the club who really like them, and I am pretty set on getting one myself. I do however have a few questions, mostly about the engine:

What engine should I get? I am looking at the o.s. .12tr as well as getting the duratrax universal started box.

What pipe/header should I get? (totally clueless on this one)

Will foams hold up on normal asphalt? (The seface we run on is a newly paved parking lot, we throughly sweep/ blow all the dust of it before using it).

Thanks

Welcome dude. The R40 is a great choice of a car to get into racing. Infact, you can race a box stock one. Sure it has plastic shocks, alum front shock towers, and not much Graphite stuff, but it handles awesome. Where are you racing? The OS .12Tr is a good engine to start with if you haven't experienced nitro onroad for a while, but if you plan on racing in a huge area, I suggest you run something faster. I ran my MT12, which is only a bit faster than the TR (revs harder and quicker), but it has little top end for my track. The end result was to push the engine to the limit and it has said no more. So, I opted for the ultimate weapon. Cost me a bit, but I love it. Anyway, check out the OS .12TR R spec if you can find one, or the RB V12 3 port std plug. If you can get parts, the Sirio Evo IIs are great for the price.

For pipe and header all is your choice of what engine you get. THS pipes run great with many engines and are available for $66.99. RD logics are for the same price and run great also. I go for one piece pipes, but you can get a two piece if you like. May cost you a little more.

I'd run the stock tires first. They work really well on many surfaces. Also take advantage of the nifty tools that come with the car. The ride height guage works really great. Fine a setting that appeals to you and you will prevail. Foams are relatively cheap and disposable. I let em stay out in the air and harden. They last longer that way, and you can always use tire sauce to revive them. There is also a trick to nuke em in the microwave for 15 seconds or so, but I never tried that yet.

[Saboteur]

BTW about the asphalt. It's funny you can run the car on different asphalt areas and some will hook up, but others won't. I guess it's the type of bite. Use the stockers for now and later on get some more foams. Dish rims are stronger than the spoked rims and they are easier to clean. Spoked rims got tons of spots for debris to hide in. I'll be going with those for now on.

[KronicRacer]

I have been out of R/C for a while (I bought a JRxs3 the first day I could, I raced my TC3 with it that weekend and everything has been in a box since then). I am interested in buying an r40 to re-enter the hobby, but have little experience with Nitro. I have been racing a loaner car (An old HIP RS4 2) with a club at my college, but am looking to get my own car again. There are 2 guys with r40's at the club who really like them, and I am pretty set on getting one myself. I do however have a few questions, mostly about the engine:

What engine should I get? I am looking at the o.s. .12tr as well as getting the duratrax universal started box.

What pipe/header should I get? (totally clueless on this one)

Will foams hold up on normal asphalt? (The seface we run on is a newly paved parking lot, we throughly sweep/ blow all the dust of it before using it).

Thanks

embry riddle areonuatical university daytona beach??


my buddy tammer just graduated from there and now is in delrio at flight school.

[StupidERAUPilot]

Nope, the one in Prescott AZ. I used to live in Seattle/Portland and I hate the humidity. Now I live in prescott and hate the heat. If I lived in florida I would have to live with both.

Looks like I'm getting the .12tr will probably order the car on Sunday or Monday. Hope to have it by the next weekend, and have it running by the weekend after that.

[Saboteur]

Sounds good. Let us know how things go dude

BTW, the R40 CAN take side exhaust engines
You will need the yokomo SE exhaust for this. Serpent also makes one, but it's the weak plastic kind so the yok will be much better. With this setup you can install a .18cvrx or any other non pullstart SE engine you wish. Just remember that this is only you choose to mess around with the R40. For racing purposes it's best to skip this method and just get a rear exhaust engine. For bashing around the yok manifold and .18cvrx is a great combo. Aside from that just go RE. See picture below for setup.

[KronicRacer]

a good portion of side exahust are pullstart. youve opened that pandoras box

how long is it going to a for a noob to walk in and ask "can i put in my 15fe into this car?"... :D

[Saboteur]

Well, you can get the .12cvr/.15/.18 FR12/FR12, Picco RC SPeed .12/.15, RB C12, Wasp .12SE,Novarossi CX12, Collari .12, and several other engines in non ps form. :) As for the .15FE, blow it up. :D

[StupidERAUPilot]

Will this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX2&P=ML) pipe/maifold work with (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNA3&P=0) engine? Or does your manifold need to be from your engine manufacuter(sp)?

I tried finding a sirio evo 2, but no luck online or at my LHS.

[Saboteur]

I think that will fit as it worked on my 2 engines and other people have tried it on other brands of RE .12s. Great pipe for the $$. You don't always have to use the companies pipe for best performance. Only with the OS .21s run the best with OS pipes.

[ALJR]

Will this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX2&P=ML) pipe/maifold work with (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNA3&P=0) engine? Or does your manifold need to be from your engine manufacuter(sp)?

I tried finding a sirio evo 2, but no luck online or at my LHS.


take a look at this thread:
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=194525

there is that THS pipe at a very good price :)

[KronicRacer]

sab take a look at this....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/cut019.jpg
does it look like the yoke header will fit with that swaybar....?

[dyslexic]

sab take a look at this....

does it look like the yoke header will fit with that swaybar....?


I have another question whered you get that sway bar?

[fastharry]

I have another question whered you get that sway bar?


how about this for trick....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/fastharry/save18.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/fastharry/save17.jpg

[Saboteur]

Oh no, it surely won't fit with that sway bar. Hey fast harry. Long time man. :) Ready for nanuet racing?

[KronicRacer]

I have another question whered you get that sway bar?

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=2&products_id=3619

had to get it overseas its not available stateside


man harry its been a while.... what kinda two speed is that? it reminds me of the ntc3 but..... woah we need details on that. :cool: did you also get the lightweight race chassis?

[Saboteur]

Kronic- Nothing special, but thats the .8 module 2speed AKA LW 2speed. It's VERY effective especially with the LW shafts (you need both). I have it on my R40 as well.

[KronicRacer]

really is that the hpi version?? ive got teh shafts and the lightweight 3racing components for the 2 speed which resemble the ntc3 lightweight stuff without the bolts. im guessing that was the 2004 spec stuff?

[KronicRacer]

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/87173am.jpg

i see now...$70.00 it is totaly different spurs and pinions are changed...... sweet for a minute there i thought harry had done some custom work. :D :o

[KronicRacer]

sweet tower has it for cheaper than hpi direct

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIC0348&P=7

[Saboteur]

There are many versions of the R40 sold over seas. Some have the oneway diff and 4 gear mod in the rear. Some just has the new fuel tank and 1 other upgrade. I forgot since there's like 3 versions. Too many to remember :). If anything look back a few pages as I posted on this. The LW 2speed has the smaller teeth for more tuning options. Also, check out that 2speed shoe. It's WAY smaller than stock. This setup revs much quicker and more consistent than the stock unit. When I get home from college I'll post a pic of them.

[KronicRacer]

i noted the teeth in harrys that why i almost freaked out.......
i also had the hobby shop order it for me should be in by the end of the week. :)

[Saboteur]

Mine is the same thing. :) It's a great upgrade for the R40.

[performula]

Are Integy parts good quality? I am thinking about purchasing a set-up board and I might pick up some R40 parts while I order.

[jtn]

Everything I have owned from Integy has been quality equipment. I also just purchased the new Integy Setup Station 2. Very good setup system!!

[Saboteur]

If you can get them yeah go for it. Otherwise, my LHS found it a pain to get the stuff from their site. The numbers were wrong and my order was cancelled. For now I'm happy with what I have and don't need anything else.

[performula]

What does everyone do to lock the diffs? I have heard of putty, but I'd like to get something that I can buy locally, or if something is recommended.

[ALJR]

What does everyone do to lock the diffs? I have heard of putty, but I'd like to get something that I can buy locally, or if something is recommended.

you could use hot glue sticks, JBweld or PlayDough

[performula]

I would lock the front diff for?

Lock the rear diff for?

Lock both diffs for a super large track?

[KronicRacer]

Everything I have owned from Integy has been quality equipment. I also just purchased the new Integy Setup Station 2. Very good setup system!!


whats the difference between the setup station 1 and 2? :confused:

ive got the setup station from integy (i guess its now version 1) aside from that its very good equipment.

[jtn]

the new station in on this page:
http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/Sneak_Preview.html

It now comes with a setup board/case, setup wheels and the setup gauges for camber swing freely instead of the original design where they sit on your setup board. So far I like it better than the Hudy or the previous Integy systems I have used.

[KronicRacer]

awsome thanks for the info

[performula]

I would lock the front diff for?

Lock the rear diff for?

Lock both diffs for a super large track?

Please explain the traits or character of each; when modified to the car.

[Saboteur]

A rear solid axle, which works like locking the rear diff will cause the rear tires to spin at the same time. This is good for the tracks with less sharp turns. Some R40 guys tried it in the front so it pulls harder in the corners. It's a setup that takes getting use to. A front one way diff will spin under acceleration, but lay off the throttle and it spins constantly. The benefit is it allows greater cornering speed. Use it for the big tracks with sweeping turns. For now stick with the gear diffs and use different oils in em.

[KronicRacer]

in addition to that stuff sab mentioned. the front oneway locks under acceleration and spins freely off throttle to where you have no brake in front, only rear brake. a locked front gives you 4 wheel brake same as a locked rear

[KronicRacer]

so the two speed came in yesterday i was assembling it last night and trouble rear its ugly head. the clutch shoes started to separate at the ends of the screw holes where the black and silver screw go. i checked on tower to see if they had the maintanece kit and they dont.
where else would i be able to get new shoes and what other car might i be able to swipe two speed shoes off of.

[Saboteur]

It started seperating? What happened? :confused: For now there doesn't seem to be any other ones that will fit. Just get replacement shoes. You can to put those tiny screws in carefully otherwise you can warp the holes or bore through the other shoe. That almost happened to me but I used a pliars and clamped down on that area. Also, the shifting of the 2speed pressed it back into place.

[KronicRacer]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/TRINITYG4003.jpg

[Saboteur]

OHH, I had the same problem. I just ran it the way it is. As long as the piece didnt break off and the screw can sit in there without falling out ur good to go. :)

[KronicRacer]

sweet
because i cant find the two speed maintanece kit anywhere. the two speeds are on back order now. ill pick up andother one later on then if it wont pose a problem.

[performula]

What about placing a tiny drop of CA glue on the thread of the to help reinforce the cracks as the plastic starts to seperate?

[performula]

However, I would consider that a defect that should be covered through "workmanship."

[KronicRacer]

that or a quality control issue

[Saboteur]

Yeah don't use ANY sort of adhesive.

[KronicRacer]

im gonna check out the g4 and see if i can throw that clutch shoe on there tonight. :confused:

[Saboteur]

If it's not the same shoe I'd skip on it. You can't run two different weight/size/shaped shoes.

[KronicRacer]

the G4 shoes are slightly bigger. im gonna check out the ntc3 shoes.

[Saboteur]

The AE may fit. The better one that would probably be a direct fit is the Mugen shoes. They also have a .8 module gear LW 2speed for their car, so I'm assuming it will fit. You're better off getting the replacement 2speed for the R40 LW.

[KronicRacer]

the ae is too small just finished checking. o well back to the drawing board.

[Saboteur]

Shoulda stayed with it from the start ;)

[KronicRacer]

gotta try if not .... you never get anywhere..... how do you think i was able to convert the rear end on my nitro 3 to g4 arms with hub carriers with out cutting or grinding it. trial and error :D :p

[Saboteur]

True. LOL.:)

[reptilian]

I could swear I saw some pics of a neat wiring job. I'm not running a lap counter thingee, but it looks like the steering servo will eventually cut through its wires.

Can someone point me to some pics of a good R40 wiring?

[Saboteur]

The movement of the steering arm won't interfere with the wiring. Infact you can bunch it up a little bit behind it and then them a bit lower than the linkage and around the front of the fuel tank. I'll try to find a good pic of mine. Gotta head outside to run the car and have fun before the day is over. ;)

[reptilian]

The movement of the steering arm won't interfere with the wiring. Infact you can bunch it up a little bit behind it and then them a bit lower than the linkage and around the front of the fuel tank. I'll try to find a good pic of mine. Gotta head outside to run the car and have fun before the day is over. ;)

Fabulous, I look forward to the pics!

[Saboteur]

Here is one shot. I have the hitec 625MG in there now. The arm doesn't even hit the wires so it's all good. :)

[Saboteur]

Another shot.

[reptilian]

Thank you, Sir! I can hardly stand waiting to get it together. I've had the car for nearly a year, but have not run it. Crazy, huh? I have a good-looking wife, small children, I'm involved in church & own a home which is in need of constant repair. However, the bug has returned and it's time to get my fix!!! I don't know of any organized TC racing in Houston. Many of the hobby shops in town are closed for good. There were only 2 that onroad tracks anyway. Thanks for your help! The Reptilian Kind.

[Saboteur]

Sure dude anytime. Always remember first things first, and many times RC doesn't come first. ;)

[KronicRacer]

only if youre single. :p

[RevopowA]

Hi. I bought an r40 when it first came out, but soon after.. stupidly, sold it. Now, a year later, i want it back. Im this question has been answered a hundred times, but im just wondering what the differences between the 2004 edition and the original are? Is the 2004 edition worth an extra 60 bucks? Could i just buy the original for about 250 and buy the new parts that are on the 04 edition separately?

thanks for your help,
Tom/

[Saboteur]

Better off wait for the 2005 edition. It's gonna be much better than all the 04s.

http://www.teamjoybox.com/shs05/shs05062.jpg
http://www.teamjoybox.com/shs05/shs05063.jpg

[ALJR]

Better off wait for the 2005 edition. It's gonna be much better than all the 04s.

http://www.teamjoybox.com/shs05/shs05062.jpg
http://www.teamjoybox.com/shs05/shs05063.jpg

is it going to be offered in the US? or is this another HK special...

looks nice! i like the rx holder, it looks even lighter and would make it easier to change frequencies w/o it being in a case.. only down side is it would see allot road grime..

[Saboteur]

Yes, it will be offered in the US soon. Price was translated to be $475 US dollars, but I'm sure it will go down. As you can see it has the upgraded chassis, graphite shock towers, new upperdeck LW 2speed, and many more. It's going to be very similair to Hara's setup.

[ALJR]

any eta?

and to think, i just built a ntc3 team kit! might have to invest in one of these as well..

[KronicRacer]

when will that new fuel tank be availiable?

[Saboteur]

HMm, after comparing it to the '04 hara version it seems this one will come with less upgrades. For that price is way to high. The other vs was only $369 or something like that. I run the stock fuel tank and I have no problem with it.

[KronicRacer]

what cracks me up i had a good majority of those upgrades (if not more)by the middle of 03 :D
aside from the tank and rx case theres nothing really new most people dont have already.

[Saboteur]

The only things I got were:

graphite shock towers
LW 2speed
LW shafts

Thats all I need for right now. The car handles really well. Just bought some spare parts on the side incase of a crash or so. However, I try to take care of my car a lot.

[Saboteur]

C'mon R40 owners! Get out the cars and gear up for the summer! Racing time!! :D

[nitrothugg]

just jumped on the band wagon and got an r40. just wanted to know the weak parts/most often broken parts at the track? thanks

[dyslexic]

I would recomend you get a full set of belts, pivot balls and steering knuckels and arms as well as front universals i've broken more of those then anything else.

[Saboteur]

I been to the track with mine and I never had to worry about breaking anything. Belts don't break often, but good to have them incase you didn't set up the tension right. Basically what he said is good if you do have a crash. Otherwise, best to avoid crashing by driving clean.

[nitrothugg]

well i got it all put together. started at 9 at night and finished at like 8 in the morning. everything fits together nicely.

my one complaint about the build process is that they should have labeled the smaller bags as well or atleast kept all the parts for a section in one bag. for instance, the universal is one bag, and the pins are buried in another.

also, i would have liked for them to built it with hex head screws instead of the phillips...

that being said, i think i'm going to enjoy this one. :)

[Saboteur]

Unfortunately you'd have to buy the TI screws if you want all hex head screws. My mugen was all hex heads which I liked. Too bad for the R40. What engine, pipe, and radio gear are you using on your's? Here is mine.

[nitrothugg]

i put in a sirio .12 from a year ago, i only got 10 tanks through. the pipe i'm going to have to get from my lhs tomorrow. i put in a specktrum rx and a cheap but effective duratrax metal gear servo for steering and a traxxas servo for throttle...trying to use every spare device i have laying around to save a buck or two.

[Saboteur]

I'm running a standard servo for throttle and it can lay down some good stopping power on the car. I made my way around the track with one. For steering though I slapped on a Hitec 625MG. I have that for throttle on my 8th onroad.

[nitrothugg]

Sounds good. Let us know how things go dude

BTW, the R40 CAN take side exhaust engines
You will need the yokomo SE exhaust for this. Serpent also makes one, but it's the weak plastic kind so the yok will be much better. With this setup you can install a .18cvrx or any other non pullstart SE engine you wish. Just remember that this is only you choose to mess around with the R40. For racing purposes it's best to skip this method and just get a rear exhaust engine. For bashing around the yok manifold and .18cvrx is a great combo. Aside from that just go RE. See picture below for setup.



where can i get that manifold?

[nitrothugg]

this?

[Saboteur]

Yes. :) Serpent makes one, but it's pretty crappy. The RB or yokomo one will work. I could've tossed the .18cvrx in there with it, however I didn't want an SE engine nor a .18.

[nitrothugg]

the first thing i notice about the r40 is how free the drive train is. i have owned one other triple belt 1/10 and the ntc3. the r40 has very little drag.

the first upgrade i made was installing 4 teflon bearings on each universal.

cant wait to drive it.

[Saboteur]

Thats what I also like. The more you drive it though, the more free it becomes. It will roll almost or as easy as a shaft driven tourer. :) What upgrades you will benefit from are the graphite front and rear shock towers, LW 2speed shaft and middle shaft(front pulley, and LW 2speed (.8 Module). Together the LW stuff makes the car accelerate even faster offline since they reduce a whole lot off the drivetrain. With my MT12 the car was so much faster on low and top end. However I still went with a faster engine lol. Here is the LW 2speed comparison. You can tell which is the LW anyway from the pics.

[Saboteur]

Comparison of the stock vs LW shoe

[Saboteur]

The gears.

[nitrothugg]

just got done running one tank for the first time in my r40 and i'm impressed. its definately a step up from my previous on road. it really bought my sirio back to life.

[Saboteur]

The stock gearing is fairly tall and adds great acceleration. The LW is a bit taller for more top end. Normally the car will accelerate slower, however with it being lighter and using the LW shafts the car spools up quite fast.

[chumanji]

what would be a good reliable engine for the r40...did some search found a lot of threads but most are getting out dated....

I also saw some SH engine in my LHS. Are those any good?

[Saboteur]

IMO, stay with Novarossi (REX and TOP included), RB, and OS. Those are your best bet for brand of engines. All are strong and reliable. The R40 can take standard and SG crank, but go with SG.

[chumanji]

Is the Novarossi R12T5S2 for $225 a good deal? :confused:

[Saboteur]

RR12T5S2? Or is it the RS12T5 S2. If it's the RS12, it's almost as fast as the Novarossi, but for that price you can get a new NS12 or NR12, or the OS .12TZ.

[nitrothugg]

well i just upgraded probally 95% of the screws to hex head to make it feel even more pro - if thats possible.

question - what are you guys using to lube the thrust bearing? i'm currently relubing it with wd40. is this ok?

[Saboteur]

WD40 works great. I clean the car with Nitro wash and WD40 loosens it up.

[nitrothugg]

got a new engine to stuff in my R40 (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=198759) :D

[Saboteur]

Sweetness! Break it in and let us know how it goes. :)