HPI R40 forum

[StevePond]

HPI's new R40 Competition Nitro Touring Car appears to be a reality. These pictures of what appears to be a production version all new R40 is the first touring car, expose the details of the car that HPI nitro touring fans have been wanting for some time.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40.jpg

The design objectives according to HPI, are a very low center of gravity, ease of maintenance, and maximum adjustability.

To acheive the lowest possible center of gravity, the R40 is designed for use with a readily available 5-cell rechargeable receiver pack that mounts to the bottom chassis plate. This keeps the weight of this somewhat heavy component as low as possible. It also makes it easier to find a receiver pack from you local dealer because it's standard configuration, not a specialized pack that must be special ordered or hand assembled.


Side View

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40Side.jpg


Low CG Battery Mount

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40battery.jpg

The steering servo is mounted between the upper and lower deck of the R40 instead of being mounted upside down in the upper chassis plate. This too lowers the center of gravity and maximizes handling. Also note the woven graphite upper deck.

Horizontal servo mounting position

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40servo.jpg


The R40 employs an "upper bulkhead" design for ease of maintenance. This apparently means diff and belt maintenance can be performed by removing this upper bulkhead, which likely means you won't have to remove half the suspension to perform routine maintenance. Both the front and rear reportedly use this design.

Upper bulkhead design for ease of maintenance

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40frontend.jpg


Front upper bulkhead removed

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40frontdiff.jpg

The fuel tank can be removed from the chassis in a matter of seconds by removing two clips. The tank's narrow design also prevents fuel from sloshing to the sides and away from the fuel pick-up during long, high-speed corners. Additionally, the fuel pick-up is located in a narrow but deep section at the very rear of the tank, ensuring you'll burn every last drop of fuel before the engine stalls.

Fuel tank

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40tank.jpg

The lower chassis plate features HPI's signature purple anodizing. It also features countersunk screw holes to maximize ground clearance, and a narrow profile to prevent the sides of the chassis from scraping the ground and slowing the car during hard cornering.


Bottom view of chassis

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40bottom.jpg


The rear view of the chassis reveals suspension mounts that are independent of the bulkheads, making them easy to change. Different suspension mounts can be used for modifying raising or lowering chassis without disturbing the suspension geometry.
Molded shocks with threaded pre-load adjusters also appear to be standard on the R40.


Rear end

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40rear.jpg


The two-speed transmission features threaded clutch bell gears, which allows changing the gear ratio without having to remove the clutch bell. The spur gears can also be easily detached by removing a single E-clip.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40tranny.jpg


The Centax-type "Center Force" clutch is fully adjustable without any disassembly or engine removal. This type of clutch is a distinct advantage over standard clutches because it allows the engagement point to be matched to the engine performance characteristics as well as track conditions.

Center Force clutch

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r40clutch.jpg


This transmission design produces smooth shifts even when running the 1.5+ horsepower small-block engines (even a big block if you wanted to try stuffing one in there). The shift points are easily adjusted and remain much more stable than HPI's previous cam-type 2-speed.

Clutch-type 2-speed transmission

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/r40/r402speed.jpg

Specifications:

• Chassis length: 370mm
• Width: F/R 196/198mm
• Tread: F/R 170/168mm (adjustable)
• Wheelbase: 255-260mm (adjustable)
• Suspension: F/R double wishbone
• Drive system: 3 belt drive 4WD
• Tires: F/R 26/30mm HPI PRO foam tires
• Engine, manifold, muffler, and body are not included.

[puribong]

looks nicely designed... how is it going be released??

[hpijoepro2]

yo guys, go to the hpi europe website, there are computer pictures of the pro4

[StevePond]

Thanks for the tip. I just posted them here :D

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?&threadid=126517

[Pro3/nmt105]

edit: pictures came up...

[Pro3/nmt105]

why the aluminum shock towers? Itll just add weight, I think graphite would be a better choice...

[hpijoepro2]

your welcome, i do my best to be part of the community;)

[Possumbot]

a return to belt driven, did the rs4 3 not do too good that they decided not to try to make the shaft system better?

[FSU427P]

I think they went back to belts to keep the CG as low as possible. It's harder to get a shaft to sit low in a chassis, and you can't have the fuel tank in the center, so when fuel runs low, you run into a weight distribution problem. I think HPI did it right on this one. It really looks like a race-worth machine.

[Nightz]

Looks like there's no adjustable turnbuckles in the rear huh? :(

[fastharry]

its also a prototype..the car will be going through testing..and some chages will be made..

[me43]

Originally posted by Nightz
Looks like there's no adjustable turnbuckles in the rear huh? :(

have you looked at the front ones?

they look almost impossible to adjust without taking off something

[fastharry]

the front turnbuckles are only for toein/out......and they can be accessed through the bottom arm..same as the impulse...no biggie.....

[TexRacer]

Possumbot-Said

a return to belt driven, did the rs4 3 not do too good that they decided not to try to make the shaft system better?
Well the Shaft is Nice but the Rs4 3 was never meant to be a Pro Racing sedan.Like stated the fuel tank in the middle is better than choosing between shaft or belt.I think did a great job with this one.Good Choice to keep the CG down.


Pro3/nmt105 Asked:

why the aluminum shock towers? Itll just add weight, I think graphite would be a better choice...

Well due to alot of the guys running the Kyosho Car,trinity,and the serpent upgrading to aluminum plus that im guessing weight isnt much of an issue in Nitro and as a 7 yr racer it isnt like electric.We can save weight other places to have something more durable and less flex.
Plus like stated this is a 1st release of Pics.Im sure some changes will be made.

[Nofri]

Wow nice car! :cool: So when can we see and buy it in the shops?

I'm thinking to getting into rc heli's but maybe I'l go for this beatifull car :)

[TexRacer]

Nofri I would think August at the earliest.
Les

[fastharry]

HPI staff,is that music to the ears,or what?...http://www.projecttwin.com/smilies/rockon.gif

[fastharry]

Originally posted by TexRacer
Nofri I would think August at the earliest.
Les

on hpi's site it says October ...

[Nofri]

Too bad ill have to wait so long :'(

[atm92484_3]

It looks like it'll be well worth the wait. HPI really did their homework on this one. Heck if I'm in the market for a new nitro touring car, this would defiently be one car I'd consider.

[Demetree]

Although this car is targeted mainly for racers on prepared tracks using foam tires, I am wondering how it will feel with normal rubber tires on parking lots, since the suspension is optimized for foam tires.


I don't do much foam tired racing, but this seems like a cool car to add to my collection, to race my friends with.

[fastharry]

its going to have adjustable rool centers,so you should be able to get a decent set up for parking lot use..

[kart38]

October release date huh? Cool, I can get myself a nice birthday present :D

Makes me wish I hadn't just bought a GT-4 Pro though.

Jason

[Frank McKinney]

Originally posted by Possumbot
a return to belt driven, did the rs4 3 not do too good that they decided not to try to make the shaft system better? The Nitro 3 (the shaft drive Nitro car) is not meant to be a pro-level competitive racer. It's more for the parking lot racer or "basher". The R40 and Nitro 3 will probably exist side-by-side and racers will be able to choose what car works best for them depending on the type of track they race at.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Originally posted by Nightz
Looks like there's no adjustable turnbuckles in the rear huh?


Originally posted by me43
have you looked at the front ones?

they look almost impossible to adjust without taking off something
If you look in the first picture of the car at the top of the page you can see the thick 4mm turnbuckles that adjust the rear camber. Also, if you are used to looking at the Nitro 3, you may not see the adjustment possibilities of the pivot ball type front suspension. Racers who are familiar with pivot ball type cars will know that the front end of the R40 is similar to other top-level racing cars, and is extremely adjustable.

[InspGadgt]

Hey Frank,

From what I see in the pictures it sure looks like you guys hit a winner with this one. The side profile showing how low everything is is impressive. I really like what's been done to make the car easier to work on. That's always been a problem with racers in the past...ease of repair is often sacrificed for performance or ease of production.

[fastharry]

little birdie told me that this car runs REAL well...with a ton of cornering speed..


I KNOW this car is gonna be a BIG hit.....and I'm gonna hit the racetrack circuit with it..(ROAR REGION 2)..

[Frank McKinney]

InspGadgt - yes I hope the R40 helps start a new trend of easy to work on Nitro pro cars, just like Serpent started the trend of touring cars with 1/8-style suspension.

Fastharry - the birdies are right, I was waiting for news to hit the 'net somewhere. See my post on RC Tech.

[TeeGeeRacer]

This isn't about the R40 (which is damn awesome by the way!) But since this thread has Frank McKinney's attn., when can we expect an update/replacement for the Super Nitro?

[Godspeed]

I am currently on a lookout for a 1/10 nitro touring car. Someone please tell me that the R40 is a car that needs minimal hopups to race out of the box. Dun wish to spend tons of money hopping up a car to race competitively. I am still deciding which car to get cos there are just too many choices out there in the market. :confused:

[rs4-3]

Originally posted by Godspeed
I am currently on a lookout for a 1/10 nitro touring car. Someone please tell me that the R40 is a car that needs minimal hopups to race out of the box. Dun wish to spend tons of money hopping up a car to race competitively. I am still deciding which car to get cos there are just too many choices out there in the market. :confused:

WHAT I CAN TELL THE CAR WILL BE A VERY GOOD CAR
AND THE BEST HPI HAS EVER MADE.

it should not need hopups but as you no hpi likes to make
there cars where they need a lot of hopups to be even close
to being competitive.

[fastharry]

I can tell you the car will be a pure racing machine...and won't need a laundry list of hop ups....the options will adapt the car (or driver) to different racing conditions..thats it..

[Frank McKinney]

Originally posted by TeeGeeRacer
This isn't about the R40 (which is damn awesome by the way!) But since this thread has Frank McKinney's attn., when can we expect an update/replacement for the Super Nitro? I don't know - I'm not in R&D nor do I make product/kit decisions. Why do you ask? The Super doesn't have much competition in its class (2 other kits, compared to a dozen or so different 1/10 Nitro racing cars) and isn't a big racing class unfortunately.

[G87z]

hummm car looks very nice. reminds me of my mugen MTX 3.
its about time HPI got on the right track. im sure next year ill see many of them at my local track.



George

[shoe]

if hpi sells tons of their rs4 3's, (including me...), which has almost no race potential in it, imagine how many r40's theyll sell... genius.

[Digit]

i like the reciever box, the ONE thing on my mtx3 i hate is how like the only reciever that fits perfect is the m8 mini reciever, and others like my JR synthesized kinda hang out and u have to mickey mouse it for it not to get close to dragging. nice job hpi, who is the main designer, was it from hpi japan or usa?

[fastharry]

teh car was designed in Japan...and its going to be made on Japan also,not taiwan..

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by Digit
i like the reciever box, the ONE thing on my mtx3 i hate is how like the only reciever that fits perfect is the m8 mini reciever, and others like my JR synthesized kinda hang out and u have to mickey mouse it for it not to get close to dragging. nice job hpi, who is the main designer, was it from hpi japan or usa?

You've got something set up wrong. I run the Novak XXtra or a Hitec DCX rx without any issues. Another guy runs a standard Airtronics FM rx without issues.

[tekrsq]

The more I look at the R40, the more I want one!!!! My son has a Nitro Racer 2, this could be my excuse to get him into a real car.

[fastharry]

me too.....I hope they can get the car out before october....Give me a chance to run the car before it gets cold in NJ..

[codeman]

the clip adjustable suspension is a GREAT idea. Not to mention the easy access diffs, and the ability to use a standard flat pack while being mounted down the centerline of the chassis.

Looks like a winner ... even using a Hudy board tends to not give 100% accurate setups as I'm sure some of you have noticed. You adjust the one side perfectly, then go to adjust the other .. by the time you're done, the other side is out of whack a little so you go back and adjust that ... and on and on until its 'good enough' and you've pushed down on the darn chassis a million times to 'settle' it, only finding it again is slightly different that the last time you checked :) Clips/spacers will bring the setup geometry as close to perfectly symmetrical as it gets! :) Such a simple idea, almost too simple like it would appeal to beginners (which it does) .. and I'm sure this is why the other companies producing race kits havn't done it .... afraid it might take away their "pro kit" image.

[DOOD]

If this car handles like a Mugen with it's awesome front/rear balance and stability(credit to their rear suspension-HPI has a VERY similiar design) and at the same time very durable with no custom fitting of parts, I'd most likely get one. I really like the easy to access diffs, just hope it doesn't compromise the rigidity of the car.

Things I hope HPI addresses with the car:

1. Awesome handling(great steering with rear stability and balance)
2. Parts durability and fitment- longevity, NO SLOP, maintains shape and doesn't alter settings after most impacts.
3. Easy to work on and rebuild
4. Use of Hex screws(personal preference :) )
5. Consistent clutch(like a Mugen)
6. Gearing for big tracks(noticed the prototype lacked the gears for Crystal Park's 210+ ft straight)
7. Very responsive to setup changes.
8. Durable belts- but at the same time, smooth and efficient
9. Make the car as light as possible.

Am I leaving anything out? I know this would make the car close to perfect, but nothing is impossible.

Just my $0.02

[wilson_bryant]

i now want to sell my super to save for this. how much do you think it will cost???

[shoe]

i was lookin at the japan site, and it looks like there are two versions of the r40. one for 39,800 yen and another for 32000 yen, but im not sure if thats retail or street price.

[codeman]

noticed that too .. wonder what the difference is; I noticed one version has the pink aluminum shock stays, and another with carbon fiber/graphite

either way, sweet looking kit :)

[tl01boi]

any word on the price of the car yet? i want another nitro for my b day and this one might be it, hopefully it's out before august:rolleyes:

[superspeed]

That could well be the street price, roughly between $270 to $350 (U.S. dollars). I recall Mugen had 2 versions, one came with set of racing foam tires and body.

Frank, it's too bad the release date is October. Racing season would be over in northwest region. Pivot ball type suspension is the best, the placement of receiver pack is very clever. Are most of the parts made of FRP? Finally, the fuel tank is secured by body clip (same idea found on Savage), is it reliable?

Thanks

SuperSpeed

[Frank McKinney]

No one has has a problem with the fuel tank clips on the Proceed and to my knowledge the Savage either, so I'm sure that's okay.

[RC10T3]

frank, the r40 and pro 4 look amazing. I am very happy that HPI is actually using the racing part of the company name, and these look like awesome awesome cars. Just one thing. Why plastic on the bottom? It would be just as easy to use graphite, and that would increase the awesome looks that the car already has.

[Frank McKinney]

Why make it cost more, I suppose. The plastic will weigh as much as the graphite, and I'm sure we or someone else will release a graphite battery holder/retainer.

[theShark]

car looks great...might be susceptible to side impacts tho, servos on one side and pipe and belt on the other.

maybe a strong brace to keep the pipe out of the belt and something to guard the servos especially the steering servo that looks like it will take the blow.

[fastharry]

Just thought Id bring this thread back up...

Maybe Frank or Kent can give us an update as to whats going on...I heard they are releasing the car in Japan this week..

Any idea of when here?


How are preparations going for the ROAR race in Aug?..

I'm in that HPI mode,getting ready for NJ's HPI Challenge....


Parking the Tc3's for a few weeks...

C'mon HPI,any news for us?>...

[Frank McKinney]

Start saving your lunch money I guess :)

I guess prep for the ROAR race is going okay, we'll have a couple of cars there.

[fastharry]

Frank,is that all you have for me?.....How about an approx release date?



Coming to the HPI Challenge in NJ Frank?...

[mugenseike]

look's very menacing and dangerous.
-mugen

[liquidforrest]

HPI's Japan website has a video of the R40

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

HPI's USA site does too

[Frank McKinney]

Originally posted by fastharry
Frank,is that all you have for me?.....How about an approx release date?



Coming to the HPI Challenge in NJ Frank?... Yes, soon, yes. ;)

[fastharry]

good to see you're coming..

My reservations are all made..

Most of the guys are staying at teh fairfield inn...

Right next door is the residence inn.....(both are Marriot hotels)..

its 15 more a night but has a full kitchen,and larger rooms(suites also)....

thats where I'm staying...4 nights..

by teh way,just entered my 2nd ROAR regional race in Edison,NJ...Fished second A main with the Tc3..Big track,also..250 x225 ft..its 1/8th scale size..

I told Thad,if the R40s are here soon enough,I'm going to run the r40 in the NJ Championship...Thats in Sept...the sixth and seventh..


So Bring one for me so I can put it in the winners circle....(if they are not out yet;) )

[Frank McKinney]

Originally posted by fastharry
How about an approx release date? Is August soon enough? (http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm)









:p

[fastharry]

is running it at the Challenge OK?....

[liquidforrest]

NICE that means i'll be able to get it on the track the season!:D

[Frank McKinney]

Originally posted by fastharry
is running it at the Challenge OK?.... We might have to outlaw it for the NJ Challenge (it'll dominate the Nitro Mod class) however it will be legal for the World Final in October.

[liquidforrest]

Frank,

early august? late august? im really getting ready to drop kick my RS4 3 to the next state soon. i need a "real" car

[carlos_rico]

hello frank

I really need to know the date when the R40 will be able in the market.
please tell us

carlos

[carlos_rico]

hey Frank

I was in the net and I saw that there are two different prices in japan for the R40.
I want to know which is the difference between this two cars.

thank

carlos

[Downforce]

Frank and Andrew had a production R40 at the Michigan HPI Challenge this weekend for everyone to look at. Next year the 1/10th nitro mod class you will be able to use foams.

[Rookie Solara]

Yeah, just got back from the HPI challenge at Jackson.....and took a peak of the R40, totally like what I expected for the real race TC. And if ppl saying HPI are no way to compete with those big boys like Serpent Mugen Yok Kyosho and AE.............I am sure this R40 will change all that.

From the beginning, this is totally Serpent/MTX 3 combo..........it is nothing new, cause we all expected pivot balls front suspension, 3 belts transmission, Centax 2-speed, adjustable coilover.....etc, but I have to give credit to HPI that they add the latest from Serpent 705 and MTX3....such as the quick release gas-tank and lay-down steering servo.....

I always said.......there is nothing wrong about copying (all cars are 4 wheels and 4 doors with a steering wheel...)....but at least you make it BETTER then the original..........the last, 1100mah 2/3A battery pack still managed to FIT thru all those goodies, that is definitely the extra credit (lots of ppl complain about the 705 750mah AAA sized batteries are playing with fire for 45 minutes)

About the upgrade....it is definitely personal, if I managed to run this car next year (over my long time favorite NTC3).........all I need to upgrade are the front/rear shock towers or alunium side brace (just like the Serpent IMPULSE to PRO upgrade)...but I ganrantee mfr like GPM, MRP will release all the titanium or carbon graphite garbage to make the R40 look like a purple magnet..........that is a given.

[Saboteur]

This car looks awesome. I like the vid they have on HPI's site. Since my LHS is a major distributor of HPI products the R40 should be coming in soon. When I get enough cash, gonna be sure to snag it as well as that MT12 they have lying around in the glass case :D

[iplaydu]

Is there any major differences between the two...
the HPI R40 and the Trinity Reflex NT Pro.
Besides the price.
Wich one would be the best on race day?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I would say the hpi.
I heard that trinity has poor part support for its cars
Most hobby shops will have HPI parts in stock, so it will be better.
HPI's R40 will be a popular car so you bet the hobby shops will have parts like suspension arms, clutches, brakes and spring that will work with it.

[nitro13]

hpi has just posted on their website the r40 has been shiped and should be in hobby shops in less than 2 week http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

[Rookie Solara]

If you go to ebay and know someone in Japan and HK, R40 was released on SAT 08-02-2003 oversea for a price roughly around $260 USA.....you can easily bid one for that price (mostly higher) but with the crazy shipping cost...($50 US plus)....Japan and far-east version have different looking case/box.

http://home.netvigator.com/%7Eradiojp/r40/1.JPG

Tower listed the kit for $320........and I am sure some shop at WEST COAST should have the kits for around $300.

For me, I think the price for R40 is a little TOO HIGH.........but I am not 100% sure what was included inside the kits, does that include the upgraded shock towers (carbon) and the front 1-way with foam tires? If you look around kits like 705 or MTX3, they are around $330-$340......while they are FULLY FULLY LOADED with all options that you will ever needed.........

Now HPI finally stepped up and developed a great looking perfomrance 200mm car, but I did not expect they also stepped up their selling price too.
I am more expect the price would be around the NTC3 range ($250-$280)

[Rookie Solara]

Also, check out the HPI Weight checker on the picture RIGHT hand side..........

I have a feeling HPI will release a setup borad, setup tools/guages and tweak station in the future....

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I am more expect the price would be around the NTC3 range ($250-$280)

MINE is ordered!!

Best price so far I found locally and on the NET is $264.99 + Shipping of $7.00 (via UPS) at www.hobbypeople.net and they have a bunch in stock. Hopefully I will have it ready to run by the second race in Aug at HTOP.

I will post comments as I build.

[Rookie Solara]

WOw.....that is a great price, even beat the price in HK (with $40 big one shipping via EMS)......and I can't wait to see yours at HTOP, and please bring it over and I will help you to setup the car for free (very much use my NTC3/Serpent spec....that should work)

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
WOw.....that is a great price, even beat the price in HK (with $40 big one shipping via EMS)......and I can't wait to see yours at HTOP, and please bring it over and I will help you to setup the car for free (very much use my NTC3/Serpent spec....that should work)

No Prob.!! Thanks, your advise is always appreciated......now it's the 5 day shipping I have to wait. Damn!!! This is worse than christmas when I was younger....with my luck it will show up while I'm at work and I will have to reroute the package....Maybe I shoud have had it shipped there!?!?! Oh well.....

[KronicRacer]

just ordered one on ebay:) i'm pacing around waiting now.. :p

[Rookie Solara]

KronicRacer..........long time no see.

And now it really makes me want to order one too...how much did you pay via EBAY...? Less then $270 shipped...?

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
just ordered one on ebay:) i'm pacing around waiting now.. :p

The one from HK?? Did you check www.hobbypeople.net?? They were cheaper than any of the one on Ebay. $264.99 + $7 for UPS shipping.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
And now it really makes me want to order one too...?

Hey get enogh guys and we have have our own class at HTOP....

[Rookie Solara]

Well, most likely you guys will see my NTC3 and the Serpent gangs........but at least, the R40 are good enough to have a match (compare to your old RS4 2)

Are you heading out to HTOP tomorrow...?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rkmori
The one from HK?? Did you check www.hobbypeople.net?? They were cheaper than any of the one on Ebay. $264.99 + $7 for UPS shipping.

i checked it out, the only way i can pay is via paypal, they only took credit card on the site.. . dont have any credit cards(by choice). the plus side of the one i got is that the person i got it from is its state side(no 5 -7day wait), its also the silver r40 box, the asian black box is callin my name.......eddy...........eddy....... LOL. $302, shipping included, wasnt that bad imo couldve been worse. also i kno that its not at the LHS, i called them on the 8/5 askin when they would be expecting the r40, they didnt even kno the release date. boy r they gonna S*** bricks when they see it up and running:D

[Rookie Solara]

Yeah $300 shipped is not too bad, considered this is the first batch and I am sure it will run out very quickly........

Nothing like running a BRAND NEW designed car on the track and make everyone head turns......

(just make sure you are not hitting the board 50 mph and embarrassing yourself LOL......)

[KronicRacer]

i hear ya on that one. ill make a point to have a few late night practice sessions when no one is at the track.:D

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Are you heading out to HTOP tomorrow...?

I doubt you'll see this post before the race but yep...I'll be there.......with my old RS4 R2.............

[puma1824]

Well add another car to my list...just ordered a R40.

So far I have a NTC3, MTX3 and now a R40 kit on the way. The MTX3 IS great BUT parts support sucks for me AND the belt changes were a pain because of the amount of disassembly I needed to do. Hopefully the top mounted belts/diffs fix this little annoyance for me.

Are the supplied foams offset? I have at least 5 sets of Fast Tyres with 2 degree offset. Hopefully they fit.

What length are you guys building your kits? 255 or 260? Specs say it's adjustable.

-Puma

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by puma1824
Are the supplied foams offset? I have at least 5 sets of Fast Tyres with 2 degree offset. Hopefully they fit.

What length are you guys building your kits? 255 or 260? Specs say it's adjustable.

-Puma

Probably 260mm the larger foot print hopefully make it more staible. As far as the foams when I saw it at the Challenge in Jackson, MI the car would not come with foams, that is what I was told, but if they changed that GREAT!!

[Rookie Solara]

The kit should came with a FULL SET of HPI Multi-Ring Foams by HPI like 37 rear and 40 front.....at least that is what they listed on their website.

About the offset of the rims.....2 degree is just make your WIDTH of the track a little wide....(may be wider then 200mm which is NOT legal for any ROAR or IFMAR race).....but you can adjust your pivot balls narrower to make it 200mm..........but overall, wider is ALWAYS BETTER.........so your 2 degrees foam are ALL GOOD.

Rex.....let me know if I can help on the R40, and make sure bring her over in 2 weeks at HTOP....I can't wait to check out the production version one more time (before I order one myself)

[fastharry]

The kit comes with Foams......I have mine in hand..I;ll start building it this week....



Rookie..you got to have it!!!:D

[Rkmori]

That great that it will come with foams!!!! I'm egar to see how the HPI Foams handle.......

[fastharry]

And HARA wins the ROAR nats withe the new HPI R40..


How great is that?>..........................................

[wilson_bryant]

what kind of crankshaft will this accept???

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

yay this is sweet!
HPI is coming back to life!
That hara news is awesome,
I look forward to more HARA wins

EDIT* sorry to not answer your Q,
the r40 will accept threaded engines only i think

[puma1824]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
yay this is sweet!
HPI is coming back to life!
That hara news is awesome,
I look forward to more HARA wins

EDIT* sorry to not answer your Q,
the r40 will accept threaded engines only i think

It will actually accept both...check out pick.

-Puma

http://www.deleos.com/images/RC/R40/R40_Crank_Type.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ah....
that engine in the manual...
looks just like mine
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p2475e75fcc0e63616a746b73b757a668/fbeeb611.jpg

[Rkmori]

Very cool that HPI is accommodating different engine designs, with out purchasing additional hardware, or modifying the crank. There really seems to be a lot of thought put into the building of the kit. I plan to take the 12tr out of the Racer2 and put that into the R40. What do you guys plan to use????

[wilson_bryant]

i plan on eather a rossi pixi or the sirio .12 outlaw. just depends on how much money i have

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
Rookie..you got to have it!!!:D

DEVIL, EVIL DEVIL...........you guys keep telling me to BUY BUY BUY BUY............NO GOOD.

(what should I do.....R40 or save money..?)

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
DEVIL, EVIL DEVIL...........you guys keep telling me to BUY BUY BUY BUY............NO GOOD.

(what should I do.....R40 or save money..?)

This the devil speaking..........you must buy now before the new baby comes........BUY BUY BUY.......:D

[codeman]

Save then buy? haha :D

[Rookie Solara]

For ppl like HPI, it is stupid for them NOT to design something for SG and standard crank engine........that way, the can easily make those who have standard engine ppl with RS4 or RS 4 3 to upgrade to R40 without upgrading eninge...

On top of that........HPI has the new 12 engine base from Nova Rossi (I think).........and they are standard and SG crank, I don't think they will tell ppl to guy their engine and can only run on the old RS4 or Serpent 705.

Again, it is completely MARKETING and RESEARCH.......thats why MBA degrees is all about.

[fastharry]

the new engine from HPI is not Nova based....and is somewhere around a TR's power output....but it is an extremely easy to tune motor..

[carlos_rico]

hello

IAM seeing the R40 and I really like it but I dont know what I need to run it.
could you please tell me a good kit for the R40 like which is the best engine for it , the pipe etc.
I am waiting for your answer.

thank
carlos

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Again, it is completely MARKETING and RESEARCH.......thats why MBA degrees is all about.

This is so very true, I truly think that HPI had the Marketing Brains try and figure out when the best time to release the R40. It just so happens that ppl are starting to get their child tax credit checks in the mail (I know I did). I bet you any thing they pushed their vendors to get this product out early. This was on the drawing board last year, and probably sechedualed for Xmas or there abouts. I would guess the time line for R&D to complete a project like this (all the reverse engineering involved, design and tooling) is about 1- 2 years. Because with the tax cedit ppl have and expendable source of cash they can buy little (or big) Johnny the new R40. I would imagine the average consumer used 25 to 50% of that check to luxury items. The rest to Bills and Nec. things. Also making the consumer buy another engine woud probably push the new R40 out of their pocket book's expenbable cash. Do the math average household with 2 kid is $800.00. just enough for and R40, the rest for other things. Too bad Rookie jr. wasn't born a year earlier....:D Having 4 kids does have it's advantage.....This is what being an Mfg. Engineer in the Sales Dept. is all about........I get pushed........The timelines in MS Project mean nothing.........If you ever had to use it.......

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
hello

IAM seeing the R40 and I really like it but I dont know what I need to run it.
could you please tell me a good kit for the R40 like which is the best engine for it , the pipe etc.
I am waiting for your answer.

thank
carlos

Carlos,

I guess setting up the R40 is a matter of preference, I may say the 12TR with a Paris pipe and a 3 PK radio. Others may say differently we all based our preference based on our experience, sometimes the experience is limited to $$$. How much do you want to spend? The 12 tr is not the most expensive motor, But I went with OS max bec. that is all I ran in my Boats, and Planes. They were reliable and have a good source of power, a buddy of mine has a fantom (??? I think) and has had nothing but problems keeping it at idle w/o flaming out. The futabe radio although in price is rather high but a very reliable radio, but so it Airronics. My opnion is 12 TR with a paris pipe is a good place to start. Like i said how much do you want to spend........? This is also advice not knowing how much exposure you have had in R/Cing. I've been R/Cing since I was 13 yo I'm now a 37 yo kid...

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Again, it is completely MARKETING and RESEARCH.......thats why MBA degrees is all about.

Hey Rookie, heres an idea, why don't we design a new R/C car....You with your MBA, me with my Mfg. Eng. and I'm sure we can find somebody at TP or HTOP, for the Tech. Specs. and Design, now all we need is capital......or investors......ok ok too much sake' tonight......

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Hey Rookie, heres an idea, why don't we design a new R/C car....You with your MBA, me with my Mfg. Eng. and I'm sure we can find somebody at TP or HTOP, for the Tech. Specs. and Design, now all we need is capital......or investors......ok ok too much sake' tonight......

Oh....I don't really have the MBA degree (MBA is for ppl who like GOLF...LOL), however, I am very familiar with CAD and 3D graphic models, that way, I cam pre-design some parts or the whole cars and have you to CNC the whole thing..........can you fabricate aluminum or BBS plastic or Titaninum....? How about Carbon Fiber....?

In 2 weeks, I will show you one of my friend from HK's product......he CNC a custom NTC3 rear GTP body mount along with the V1RR kits so my NTC3 can take full advantage of the LOLA body....he also fabricated a custom GTP front mounting kit to fit the LOLA body on my NTC3 perfectly.............(however, I cannot release any picture of the front mounting kit per his request)....and he got those million dollars computer opporated CNC machine that he can bootleg a 705 in a week, but he can do it only with a lot of time and lot of money (he said the cost is way high and make it NOT WORTH it...)

Can you do something like that if I have some blueline to you....? Because we can start looking at the R40 and start thinking about IDEAS before GPM or others releasing a PURPLE monster....again (I am sure they are very much DONE and ready to ship all the aftermarket parts....I know GPM)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
DEVIL, EVIL DEVIL...........you guys keep telling me to BUY BUY BUY BUY............NO GOOD.

(what should I do.....R40 or save money..?)

go for it.... its gonna be tougher after the wee one settles in... worst case scenario you turn around and sell it on ebay... it will sell after haras' performance. remember this: its a small investment (from a certian point of view:D

on a side note
i think its great that they finally have the full spectrum for the different shafts you can emply the different clutchs they have kudos to hpi on that decision

hey harry have u started building yet.....if so any advice on the the build so far... im still waiting on mine, i think it gets shipped today(crossing fingers).

[Rkmori]

[i]Can you do something like that if I have some blueline to you....? Because we can start looking at the R40 and start thinking about IDEAS before GPM or others releasing a PURPLE monster....again (I am sure they are very much DONE and ready to ship all the aftermarket parts....I know GPM) [/B]

Well, this is a subject, for a non-public forum, the Co I work for has the capability of Wire EDM, CNC Machine Center, Unfourtunatly I do not run the machines, so it would be a matter of paying for raw material machine time and operator time. If my Co. does not have the machine time available, I know plenty of others out there that can do it (CNC and manually).

??? do you hear that??? it was the devil again....:)

[Rkmori]

Well I just tracked my package, it is now in IL. it should be here tomorrow!!!! .....Rookie...if things go well in the build and time....I just may get out to TP for test and tune night with the R40.....I'll let you guys know....

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Well I just tracked my package, it is now in IL. it should be here tomorrow!!!! .....Rookie...if things go well in the build and time....I just may get out to TP for test and tune night with the R40.....I'll let you guys know....

I just realized that Atsushi Hara TOOK the 1st place over Billy Easton NTC3 with the same lap and 2 second ahead of him...don't forget, he DOESN'T race Nitro, only electric, and that was the first dabute of R40 and Hara himself on ROAR National NITRO race (I think that is his first....or both)

You know what....screw my baby, my wife, my mortgage, my budget and life, I am IN for R40...

WHO wants my decked up NTC3 for cheap....? I am going to hang out with the DEVIL...............

[KronicRacer]

hara drove it till the wheels nearly fell off...... :D

[carlos_rico]

ok well I am thinking in spend like 900 dollars i the r40 and here is a list that I am seeing in towerhobbies check it out and tell me if this list in good enough for the r40 and what I need like another charger for the battery or something like that, I need to know everything, I already have the radio and it is a futaba radio.

LXEAV5 HPI R40 Nitro Pro Touring Car
Accessories Needed
1 319.99
LXL331 Hobbico R/C Multi-Charger
Accessories Needed
1 32.99
LXD527 DuraTrax Receiver NiCd Flat Pack 6 Volt 600mAh
Accessories Needed
1 21.99
LXL332 Hobbico Tx/Rx Charge Leads No 9VAP Futaba J
Qty Discount Available
1 8.99
LXK134 Great Planes Ultra Precision Fuel Filter

1 2.99
LXDCX0 Protoform Stratus 2.1 Body 200mm

1 20.19
LXRS98 DuraTrax 1/10 Universal Starter Box
Accessories Needed
1 49.99
LXDUH4 Trinity Nova Rossi .12 Slide Carb SG Shaft

1 219.99
LXBKJ8 Trinity Inline Pipe Side Exhaust Reflex

1 57.99
LXCSW3 Associated Foam Air Filter Slide Carb

1 6.69
LXZH53 Trinity After Burn Oil

1 5.69
LXSM58 DuraTrax Pit Tech Deluxe Car Stand Blue

1 10.99
LXDDC2 Trinity Transporter Bag

1 39.99

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

make sure, whoever has it built first, to post pics!

[Philly's Finest]

My buddy started building his last night and he ended up staying home today to finish it off. Neither of us have a digi but man is it sweet. I'm about to get into nitro touring and the R40 has really got my attention. Only thing that worries me is the servo being so exposed.

Anyone who has one & has ran it have any issues with that?

[Downforce]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
My buddy started building his last night and he ended up staying home today to finish it off. Neither of us have a digi but man is it sweet. I'm about to get into nitro touring and the R40 has really got my attention. Only thing that worries me is the servo being so exposed.

Anyone who has one & has ran it have any issues with that?
Your kit should have a servo guard. The preprodution pictures on their site don't show it. But it's on Hara's car though.

Derek

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
make sure, whoever has it built first, to post pics!

Fastharry should be pretty much done by now.....if not already at the rack....

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by Downforce
Your kit should have a servo guard. The preprodution pictures on their site don't show it. But it's on Hara's car though.

Derek

It does it just doesn't look like it is going to guard much:D

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
ok well I am thinking in spend like 900 dollars i the r40 and here is a list that I am seeing in towerhobbies check it out and tell me if this list in good enough for the r40 and what I need like another charger for the battery or something like that, I need to know everything, I already have the radio and it is a futaba radio.



LXL331 Hobbico R/C Multi-Charger

Get the lxl357 which is the peak charger by Hobbico good thing to have to keep the batteries at their peak.

LXD527 DuraTrax Receiver NiCd Flat Pack 6 Volt 600mAh

Get the 1100 mah NIMH, or go to http://www.onlybatteries.com a lot cheaper than Tower

LXL332 Hobbico Tx/Rx Charge Leads No 9VAP Futaba J

Yes but if you are handy with a soldering iron and have extra radio parts such as a switch or battery Rec. pack leads.....RADIO SHACK.....you can even get the jack to go in the back of the radio just make sure and watch your POLARITY!!! Reverse charging your batteries can be hazardous to the health of your raido.

LXK134 Great Planes Ultra Precision Fuel Filter

good thing to put between the exhaust pressure tube and tank

LXDCX0 Protoform Stratus 2.1 Body 200mm

This is your preference......

LXRS98 DuraTrax 1/10 Universal Starter Box

Yes, but you might want to check Ebay too....I have seen some nice and better starter boxes new for about the same price.

LXDUH4 Trinity Nova Rossi .12 Slide Carb SG Shaft

Good choice I have heard good thing about this engine.

LXBKJ8 Trinity Inline Pipe Side Exhaust Reflex

Might want to ask others who have the Rossi engine and get their opnion on what works best.

LXCSW3 Associated Foam Air Filter Slide Carb

Alwyas need an airfilter

LXZH53 Trinity After Burn Oil

Marvel mystery oil works just as well, I used that on my boat motors to flush all the moisture.

LXSM58 DuraTrax Pit Tech Deluxe Car Stand Blue

Car stands are nice but not always the necessary item. This is preference.

LXDDC2 Trinity Transporter Bag.

Craftsman makes some really nice tool boxes with wheels that will carry almost everything that you need from the car to the track. I've seen alot of guys dumped their bags for the tool boxes.

I hope this helps...........

[KronicRacer]

transporter bags are a waste.. go with the toolboxes.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
ok well I am thinking in spend like 900 dollars

1 more thing Carlos Tower is ok but shop around, I know you can get better deals on other sites check out

http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/298.html

just a suggestion.........

[Rkmori]

hey..... does anybody know what the max pixel res. for posting pics on the forum?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Fastharry should be pretty much done by now.....if not already at the rack....


would you belive I haven't eeven started yet?...

I'm trying to get 5 cars ready fortrhe HPI challenge in NJ...I still have bodys to paint,etc.....

On top of that,I work 50 hours,AND just got a girlfriend...

but I will get it done.Maybe I'll take it with me to the challenge,and build it there.....

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
on top of that,I work 50 hours,AND just got a girlfriend..

GF ....$$$$$....

I actually thought about traveling to the Challenge, but Jackson, MI was enough with 4 kids and wife in-tow...... GOOD LUCK!!!

Hey maybe I can just sneak away for a weekend......you think she'll notice I'm gone?????

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rkmori
GF ....$$$$$....

I actually thought about traveling to the Challenge, but Jackson, MI was enough with 4 kids and wife in-tow...... GOOD LUCK!!!

Hey maybe I can just sneak away for a weekend......you think she'll notice I'm gone?????

LOL thats a tough one........maybe if your take two of the kids as you pit crew it might fly......

36 hours and counting till i get my r40!:cool:

[Rkmori]

Mine is on the UPS truck "OUT FOR DELIVERY".....it will probably be here in the next few hours......:D.........HMMMMM I think I feel a fever coming on.....HPI fever...........Work??? not sure if I can make it in tomorrow....

Has anybody run to any building problems yet???

[carlos_rico]

ok thanks but I need to know which battery shuold I use in the r40, and what else i need for this kit.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
ok thanks but I need to know which battery shuold I use in the r40, and what else i need for this kit.

Fuel, glow plugs and glow plug wrench......which you can get from your LHS and the 1100 mah rec. pack 2/3 cell....other than that you pretty much have everything covered.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Fuel, glow plugs and glow plug wrench......which you can get from your LHS and the 1100 mah rec. pack 2/3 cell....other than that you pretty much have everything covered.

I believe it's actually a flat pack:

Just make sure if you get a NiHM pack your charger can charge them.

-Puma

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/r40/r40_battery.jpg

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
ok thanks but I need to know which battery shuold I use in the r40, and what else i need for this kit.

Carlos,

a two more things I did not see on your list is a glow plug starter and charger, 12 V gell cell and charger for the starter box. that should be it.....I think...........sorry got R40 fever time to dismantle the Racer 2 and start building........UPS driver just showed up.......:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Hey rookie, I'm not sure if my home made starter box will fit this car.....and my rec. pack or the starter box has yet to arrive, do you have either or both I can borrow untill they do?? Pleeeeease.........:D

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
GF ....$$$$$....

I actually thought about traveling to the Challenge, but Jackson, MI was enough with 4 kids and wife in-tow...... GOOD LUCK!!!

Hey maybe I can just sneak away for a weekend......you think she'll notice I'm gone?????

If you are planning to go.....come pick me up, and you can pack me next to your brand new R40.

Rex...if you get your R40 by today (I think you are already rubbing those multi-ring tires by now...LOL), you will have exactly 9 DAYS to build that along with test running....so I expect to see that on the next HTOP race..........

I don't think it can beat my NTC3, but please.....surprise me....

P.S. Please take your time to build your car, it usually take me 5-10 days to build my car, cause I like the sand, cut, clean amd true things off on all irregular parts to make it perfect, on a car like R40, it is definitely worth the time.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Hey rookie, I'm not sure if my home made starter box will fit this car.....and my rec. pack or the starter box has yet to arrive, do you have either or both I can borrow untill they do?? Pleeeeease.........:D

HA HA HA...........I just saw this and.........HA HA HA (sorry, I am still laughtng my butt off.....)

Oh man, I totally forgot, how come HPI does not make a starter box like SERPENT that will fit the R40 perfectly...? I am sure they will have one come out.

Mean while REX, try your home made box first, I don't think the R40 is completely WAY OFF compare to NTC3 (versus my Serpent before).....but I do have my Serpent box which should be CLOSE enough for your R40........and I think the R40 is not too far away from your RS4 2, you might need to custom made some MARKER or post for the new ride.....

Beside, your box is custom..........does the word "CUSTOM" mean you need to frabricate something that no one else does...? I think it is time to make a R40 Custom Box....(hey, CNC that box with full Titanium or Alunimun alloy.....LOL)

Can't wait to see the R40 in action.....may sure I drive FIRST (just kidding....after you, just let me run couple laps)

P.S. I have inline receiver pack for you to borrow....you want to come by or you want to borrow it at HTOP...? Let me know...

[Rkmori]

After the car is together , I will see if the fly wheel touches the starter, I just may need to move the stops on the box. who care about the Racer 2 now......:D ,

I know what you mean about making sure every thing fits, and moves smoothly, so far I have run into 2 problems, 1 was the second gear clutch, the instruction book states to have a small gap between the shoe prior to installation, as I did. I had about a .004" gap between the shoes and the second gear was still binding against the clutch, after checking all was staright and flush, and nothing was binding (such as a cocked bearing or missing spacer, or worse case a bent shaft) I , filed down all the high spots created by the set screws and imperfections in MFG. I finally got it to not engage the second gear. but I had to also bring the shoes togeather a little bit more. They are just about touching each other. I cannot get the smallest feeler gage in some spots.

The other was after getting the rear dif. together the output shafts did not spin smoothly. It was like the dif was locked in posi-traction, ok for a dragster not ok for a TC. I ended up taking it apart like 3 times and a lot of grease, before it started to free up. I did not want to take it apart anymore due to plastic tend to weaken after a while. but it is still not to what I excpect. perhaps a few lap around a track will get the gears to mesh better. other than that the rear end is just about all together. Tomorrow is rear supension mounts.....I started building at around 6:30 today and quit at 11:00....trust me I'm taking my time ....but I do have 1 bad habit when I'm building a kit time, kids, baby's dirty daiper, wife, hunger, bodly needs, phone and other pople do not exsist.......My RS4 Mini (my first TC) was completed in 1 evening (about 8 hours) the Racer 2 was about 3 days......

As far as driving it I have NP letting you take it out for the virgin parctice lap at HTOP........

[Philly's Finest]

Guy at the track had his R40 out tonight running it just to show it off. It is very nice and very low. He said he broke something when assembling the clutch but I forget what it was. Whatever it was he stole a part from his other car.

This car is very sweet and I think I have the R40 bug. Now if I can just get rid of my darn monster truck I wil have the *justifiable* cash to get one.:D

[KronicRacer]

i went to the lhs last night to get some exchaust springs for my sirio..... and there it was an r40 being built. man that car looks great, looked like a g4. im pacing around so much ive bored a path on the office carpet. 24hrs till mine gets here :(.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
i went to the lhs last night to get some exchaust springs for my sirio..... and there it was an r40 being built. man that car looks great, looked like a g4. im pacing around so much ive bored a path on the office carpet. 24hrs till mine gets here :(.

Deep cleansing breathes...........in throught the nose.......... out through the mouth...:D

Mine is going together relavitly smoothly........see my earlier posts...

[KronicRacer]

breathing..... breathing (nostrils flaring);) :D

ups says its on time still..... thats a lil relief

[KronicRacer]

the car is here... there is happiness in mudville. :)

[KronicRacer]

heres a pic

[KronicRacer]

and one with all i got done so far

[Rkmori]

It's done!!!! Late nights and zoning at the desk the next morning was well worth it!!!! I will post pics as soon as I reduce the file sizes. Too many pixels for the forum.....:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Rkmori]

Clean slate....

[Rkmori]

End of Day 1...

[Rkmori]

Day 2...progress

[Rkmori]

day 3 canibaize the Racer 2........Late night 3am was quitting time...

[Rkmori]

Upgrade, got extra bearing laying around, upgrade the steering linkage, instead of the plastic bushings, use bearing of the same size.....or even one of those metal bushings that had been replace by a bearing, the plastic will more likley wear faster then the metal, end up with slop in the steering over time.

[Rkmori]

Defective part.........the ball end cracked and broke while I was turn it in, never even touched the spacer, canilblize the Race 2 again.....:mad:

[Rkmori]

Bright and early.....Started Saturday morning.......despite the 3 am late night (not even Wendy's is open that late)......Done by 2pm, was it worth it............You guys tell me.......

[Rkmori]

View of the other side....

[Rkmori]

Just a pic of my building facility.......I call it My Hobby Hut....and on 90+ degrees and high humidity......it also doubles as a sauna....

[KronicRacer]

great job man!! calipers are a must for this car. im done doing the tranny shaft (theres no rush for me)

[Rkmori]

Thanks......No rush for me either it's just that once i get to building, I can't quit. Just like the energizer bunny I just keep going and going and going....next thing I know it's 3 o'clock in the morning. I would have to say that building is 70% of the fun......for me.:)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Thanks......No rush for me either it's just that once i get to building, I can't quit. Just like the energizer bunny I just keep going and going and going....next thing I know it's 3 o'clock in the morning. I would have to say that building is 70% of the fun......for me.:)

Rex.......come over to my house now, I have batteries for you...COME COME....and I am building a BOAT...can you believe that...? YES.....A BOAT....that evil ALBERT got me a BOAT...

(anyhow, I really want you to start and break in the car first...(no, not BREAK the car....break in all the belts and gears)...so tell me what you want about those batteries....I have plenty of loose cells so you can MAKE your own pack for way less $$$....let me know...

[Rkmori]

Are you crazy!!!! it's 12:30.......and........I gave up boats a long time ago...but they are fun to build ....I ran my boat up in Wheeling, I think I told Albert about the place it last saturday. As far as the loose cells, no rush I can get them from you next Sat. at HTOP, or during the week, what ever is easier for you, I USUALLY get off of work aroung 3:30, I work about 10 minutes from Al's in Wood Dale. I also live about 15 minutes from Al's so it can be like after dinner too....lets trade cell numbers Via Email and we'll hook up....

Breaking in the car has started, I ran it in the parking lot across from my house. I have a bit of an engine problem.....I need to investigae further to see why......tomorrow I will probably not get a chance to run it because the wife and I are going to a RV boat show up in Lake County to price out a new Boat (a 1:1 Boat).....

[RC_Alan]

Wow.. I see this car is really taking off.... I just completed mine yesturday... On the 5th tank of fuel through my Rossi R12 Pixy... One thing to watch out for... The tranny is real iffy... and the plastic is not made of good materials and can easily crack or break. Took me 3 days to complete and I'm now just trying to dail in the setup... Here's a few pics. Hope you all like.

RC_Alan

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=76356012&photoID=86064535&security=fIQtsq

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=76356012

:cool:

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Hope you all like.

RC_Alan

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=76356012&photoID=86064535&security=fIQtsq

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=76356012

:cool:

Alan,
Your links don't work.....!!!

[RC_Alan]

Rkmori... I just tried the links on your last post and the one that I posted... I have almost 2000 views already... The links work.

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=76356012

PS. and for those that the link does not work... go to www.webshots.com and do a member search for rc_alan. :)

[RC_Alan]

How do you upload a picture? Any help and I'll upload the pics here. Thanks

[Philly's Finest]

If the file is one your harddrive then click the browse button below the reply box that you type in. If you want to show the pic directly from another site then use the image html tag [*IMG]the address[/IMG*] but take out the (*). I put that there so you could see the code

[Rkmori]

Below the text box to where you type your reaonse see the image I attached.......

[RC_Alan]

Rkmori, thanks... It says that the file is to large to upload.. I'll take some more and upload them later. Oh and for the webshots link... It works... I'm getting IM's from all over the place about the pics. Not only my R40 but my NTC3 converstion... Member name on Webshots is rc_alan

Link is... http://community.webshots.com/album/76356012wrzuTs

[Rkmori]

New bod for the new ride......

[Rkmori]

more of the same...

[Rkmori]

Group picture ever one!!!!

[RC_Alan]

Check this out.. R-40 ready to Race... :-)

[RC_Alan]

Thanks all for the help posting....

[RC_Alan]

Thanks all for the help posting....

[RC_Alan]

Dialing in the set up... The stock setting are pretty good out the box...

[RC_Alan]

RD logics Pipe, Rossi R12 motor 30 percent nitro fuel and upgraded the front springs...

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
RD logics Pipe, Rossi R12 motor 30 percent nitro fuel and upgraded the front springs...

Nice job....!!! Now for the new body......

[RC_Alan]

Rkmori, not sure what motor and pipe you're running... The R40 won the Roar Pro touring car nationals at Revalation raceway last week in Cali... The winner, Atsushi Hara used the RD logics pipe and the new Novarossi NS3 motor. Your new R40 would look even sweeter with a new pipe and motor... I'm sure they're on the way... I just saved up and got everything I need on the first shot at the lhs... Now I'm just waiting for the front oneway and upgraded gears... Oh, here's a tuning tip...If you're having problems getting your car to shift gears, always turn the adjustment screws slowly and turn them both out 5-1/2 turns out. When you get it shift, then back them in 1/4 turns at a time to get where you want the shift points to be... You might not need this info, but if it helps... :) And again, thanks for your help.

RC_Alan...

My Opel Astra body is waiting to be painted...;)

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Rkmori, not sure what motor and pipe you're running... The R40 won the Roar Pro touring car nationals at Revalation raceway last week in Cali... The winner, Atsushi Hara used the RD logics pipe and the new Novarossi NS3 motor. Your new R40 would look even sweeter with a new pipe and motor... I'm sure they're on the way... I just saved up and got everything I need on the first shot at the lhs... Now I'm just waiting for the front oneway and upgraded gears... Oh, here's a tuning tip...If you're having problems getting your car to shift gears, always turn the adjustment screws slowly and turn them both out 5-1/2 turns out. When you get it shift, then back them in 1/4 turns at a time to get where you want the shift points to be... You might not need this info, but if it helps... :) And again, thanks for your help.

RC_Alan...

My Opel Astra body is waiting to be painted...;)

Alan,
thanks for the tip, I will probably wait until I get to the track to do any more tuning of the car, because the parking lot that I can run in has too many rocks/gravel and crap. I have lost many belts and nicked many gears (esp in my TC3 elec.) from running there.

I need to get accustomed to the design of this car. In comparison to the Racer 2, 2nd gear does not engage, with a hard jerk or snap. I need to run it a bit to learn when it engages so I can adjust it porperly. A new motor and pipe is a matter of ecomonics $$$. I need to support my racing habit, my sons racing needs, as well as the family in general. On top of that the wife and I are looking at possibly a new Boat. I would have prefered to getting a new motor and radio with this car but, can't have it all still have to pay the mortgage.

The motor I'm using is the OS Max 12tr, with a paris pipe. This motor has a lot of HP, and actually I felt it was at times too much for the Racer 2. The racer 2 would come loose under hard acceleration. Like coming out of a turn in the back straight, esp. when 2nd gear would catch. R40 so far I have not seen that happen but then again I'm not on a track at the parking lot. Does the car look pristine, not 100%, but is it fast YES!! A visually perfect car does not mean it will win races. Next Year, New OS and 3PK Radio.....

Maybe you can explain 1 thing to me I was trying to figure out the cam adjustment on the front sway bar, I don't have the book with me but it was something about if one tire touches the surface first, rotate the cam????? This adjustment (as well as many others) I did not have in my Racer 2.

My Integy set-up gage will be delivered today Now I can really get it tweeked in......What front springs did you go with?

[spenzalii]

Hey Rkmori, nice 'Stang. I had mine painted at the LHS. Did yours come with the spoiler? If so, my paint man gypped me! The only thing I don't like is the reat wheel wells, Entirely too much space.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Hey Rkmori, nice 'Stang. I had mine painted at the LHS. Did yours come with the spoiler? If so, my paint man gypped me! The only thing I don't like is the reat wheel wells, Entirely too much space.

Thanks!! Not bad for a slap togeather paint job. I added a few pinstripping since the photo. No it did not come with the rear wing that was one that had not been used for another body. I think i was even for a newer Mustang Body style. Not too sure....:confused: but never the less it seemed to fit the car. I agree about the wheel well way too big. ...:) :)...actually I had to cut away the lower part of the body, because the chassis ride very low, now the car almost has that chopped look. To raise the body would have made even a larger sapce......No no that would not have look right......I can't wait to get to the track Saturday cannot get here fast enough...........!!!!!

[Rkmori]

Hey Alan,

When are you going to post pics of the new body on your web site?? Are those Pink Springs you are using or Red not too sure I think my color might be off on my monitor...???

Rex

[RC_Alan]

Rkmori.. I'm using pink springs in the front, 70 wt. shock oil in the front and 50 wt shock oil in the rear and stock springs... Adjusting your front stabilizer is found on pg 44 of the instruction manual. Use a flat surface or get a huddy board to check your adjustments/setup... Every car is a little dfferent.. Shock oil, springs used, camber, toe and track conditions... You want to make sure everything is perfect or as perfect as you can possible get it. If your car's set up looks fine, then don't mess with the adjustment cam... As for my Opel body.... I'll try to get around to it sometime this coming weekend. I have so many 1/10 bodies laying around here... Some are for show and some are just crash and burn bodies for the track...:cool:

[fongsteve]

Are there any news for the R40 one way?

[RC_Alan]

HPI says they're at the hobby shops now... I haven't seen any parts yet for the R40... HPI is very good at supporting there products... But this is the one car they really need to support and fast!!! Hop ups... Extra parts... ect

[RC_Alan]

Here's another link to my photo page...

http://community.webshots.com/user/rc_alan

[fongsteve]

Alan,

Where do you race? I am in Hayward, CA. Both my friend and I own a R40. Maybe we can have a little meet at the track if you near my area.

SF

[RC_Alan]

I'm down in So. Cal... KZ speedway and Cystal park are the two track I race at... Still learning the hobby and driving these cars at speed is not easy... But it sure the heck is alot of fun!!!! :cool:

[fongsteve]

Alan,

You are too far away!

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
Some are for show and some are just crash and burn bodies for the track...:cool:

Yea I know what you mean, I usually just make one ultimate body for the Challenge and the rest of the summer a few just to beat up at the track...Southern Cal..... must be nice to race all year long, our prime season is maybe May to Oct. if we are lucky.....I burn through, a gal to gal and 1/2 of fuel per year for 1 car.....

here is where I race:

http://www.chicagorc.com/hobbytownop/index.html

I also post on the R/C Zone's club/track forum for Chicago Racing

Rex

[mariog]

Hey, guys! Just got my R40 together. What a value - only paid $269 at Bruckner Hobbies. So far pretty much stock. I have chosen the brand spaken new RB Concept V12 (x12's predecessor) and I'm almost done breaking it in. I'm saving the foam stock tires for the track - went with the HPI pro compound rubber street tires for now. So far, handles great, but the back fishtails out. Need some stiffer front springs. PS - I broke the clutchnut when installing on the engine because I torqued it down too hard. BTY, the Mugen MTX-3 one works fine. I bet a lot of the parts are interchangable. Hope the spares are out soon - gonna need 'em fast!!!

I'll post some pics soon.

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by mariog
So far, handles great, but the back fishtails out. Need some stiffer front springs.

Try lowering the ride height to about 4mm in the front and 5 mm on the back. if that dosen't help put the foams on and see how it handles, I took some of the setting that Hara used in the ROAR Nat. as a starting point. If you don't have one get a set-up board and gages. I found that even with the measurements made during the building, the Camber, and toe adjustments were uneven. But like I said check out the settings that Hara used, I got some big improvments from the basic adjustments I made.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Rkmori
Try lowering the ride height to about 4mm in the front and 5 mm on the back. if that dosen't help put the foams on and see how it handles, I took some of the setting that Hara used in the ROAR Nat. as a starting point. If you don't have one get a set-up board and gages. I found that even with the measurements made during the building, the Camber, and toe adjustments were uneven. But like I said check out the settings that Hara used, I got some big improvments from the basic adjustments I made.

Good to hear that you like the car.........again, you are at the new level of RC racing...no more HPI toy like RS4 that no matter how you adjust the car, the car still drive like crap.....

Just rmember one thing.....SETUP sheet, like the work "LOG BOOK" (Rex, you should be familiar with LOG from your work right...) that really help....I have a full record of my Serpmet Impulse PRO to Impact/835 to NTC3..........most like, I will have one for R40 in the future.

Atsishi Hara setup should be good for something like 120-200 feet trac (consider mid-large track)........HTOP need something SOFTER cause the track is like 80x120.....damper, oil and springs are the KEY of the setting.........camber is something you need to do AFTER you have the shock dialed right....

Car like R40 doing fish tail.........cause you are using RUBBER tires...get foams, even HPI challenge allow FOAM on Mod class now, foam is the way to go....also, WIDER is better (30mm vs 26mm)

Last....your old RS4 2-speed are using the cheapa$$ finger type...the probelm of that system is the 2nd speed will engage INSTANTLY....like shifting from 5th gear down to 1st gear in a real car and it will JURK the whole tranny up..........when this happen on the RS4....most likely is at the end of the straight cause your engine RPM is getting to the point for the 2 speed to engage...once it engaged, you are ready to TURN, but since you are ON the 2nd speed, those extra power will force to fish tail...thats why NO ONE beside HPI are using the finger type 2-speed.

On the R40 2-speed, the typical SHOES type........2nd speed engaged from SLOW to FAST moment, in stage.... and never have that 'SUDDENLY UPSHIFT" position like the finger type...so your car will transit from 1st to 2nd much smoother.

R40 does have a lot of improvement, but definitely NOT NEW, so most of the setup like Serpent or Mugen can be adopte......also, try get 2 different setting for SMALL TRACK and LARGE TRACK....hara used front 1-way and rear solid for the ROAR race, just like serpent 835, that is the setup perfect for the LARGE track....the car should be a little PUSH with 1-way, so if your track is not LARGE enough, keep the diff and pakc it with heavy grease.

[RC_Alan]

That car should go straight when you pull the trigger... Sounds like your setup is off... Check your front and rear shocks... It could be that not every tire is touching the ground at the same time. If the car is complete.. get a huddy board or just a plan flat surface and check your settings... You can go to HPI's website and get Hara's setup notes... That's a great starting point, but you still have to have the basics down first, like the shocks being built correctly, camber, toe and front stabilizer betting set correctly... These things must be done first, then you go onto the setup notes... If your car fish tails with rubber, it'll do the same with foams... Your twik is off... Check everything again, check your shocks for air bubbles and the right/correct compression... If in doult, take Mr. Hara's setup notes to your local track and ask one of the drivers that has a huddy board to set your car up for you.. It might cost a little bit, but at least you'll know it's done right... Good luck:cool:

[KronicRacer]

finally finished my rolling chassis last night.. all i have to do is install the motor new reciver, servos and new infinity g35 body

does anyone know where i can pick up a jr rs300 reciver other than ebay?. :cool:

[RC_Alan]

KronicRacer... Try ultimatehobbies.com or Nitrohouse.com

If you don't see it on the website, call the 800 number and they can help you... Goodluck and post your pics. Oh, what motor and pipe are you running in that car???

[KronicRacer]

im gonna run a sirio outlaw and hopefully the jr reciver on it. heres a pic of the rollin chassis

[KronicRacer]

heres a close up, im thiking of runninf the paris racing ripple pipe. that or the ace racing products outlaw pipe.

[Saboteur]

Nice rides Kronic. BTW what car is that on the left of the R40? As much as I want to save up for an R40 I should be saving for a real car now. Surely after I get a ride, the R40 will be in my hands, as well as that MT12 thats been sitting in the case untouched for a while. :D

[fastharry]

nitro tc3

[RC_Alan]

Things I've notice while building and running the car a little bit...

The car out the box and the stock settings for short or mid size track are great.... Even the foam tires that comes with the kit are very good. I changed my front shock springs because of my driving habits.... I would say they're about four things to notice... The Centex clutch takes time to get used to and adjust... The tranny is very tricky and the plastic shoes can crack if you are not careful while building them... The car needs a front oneway and HPI need to make/release a front belt tensioner... My front belt seems to be alittle loose to me... Remember, this car is not meant for parking lot bashing or running up and down the street, but was meant for one purpose and that's to be raced at a real Nitro RC track. I've seen people with Serpents and Mugen's that had more problems out the box... This car is easy to adjust and it does take sometime. This car is really a big step up for HPI and anyone that was just bashing and wants to get into real racing.. I must say, this car handles better then my NTC3... Wow, did I say that??? Heck Yes I did!!! Hope the info helps..

RC_Alan :D

PS.. KronicRacer... Nice pics... The Sirio is a nice motor, but I would use a better pipe... A duel chamber tune pipe... RB, RD logics and Mugen are just a few pipes to check out...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by RC_Alan
PS.. KronicRacer... Nice pics... The Sirio is a nice motor, but I would use a better pipe... A duel chamber tune pipe... RB, RD logics and Mugen are just a few pipes to check out...

thanks for the rb reminder...... i would have the car fully equipped top of the line stuff, it will have to wait, got college books to pay for ;) that time of year again. btw the pipes i mentioned are pipes i have already.

[KronicRacer]

well heres my report on the car (from the building aspect):
it was simple ... did not have any parts break strip or snap.
personally i still like the ntc3 shocks better.
the only part that confused me was putting in the camber links on the rear tower.. page 18 indicates to put the link on the lower hole. then on page 19 it shows the middle one being used.
there where a few other things that were strange in the instructions cant think of them at the moment. did anyone else catch anything during their builds out of the ordinary?

[Rookie Solara]

When I was "INSPECTING" Rkmori's R40, I found out 2 things on centax that HPI didn't listed and I think they should...

(1) Thrust bearing.....all Centax are the same, including HPI one, nothing new at all, they just used the same parts from others, but remember to USE AE black grease to grease your thrust bearing (sandwich looking one) at least once a week before or after the race..........Team racer do that once every two 20 minutes heat.........

If you think they don't need to grease.......don't do that, and you will find out later, thrust bearing are like $20 each and not too many LHS stock that parts, and your centax will not run without it..

(2) Again, thrust bearing.........grab your digital caliper and measure the 2 outter washer at the INSIDE DIMENSION of both washer, and you will find out one washer inside dimension is LARGER then the other one......4.2mm and 4.0mm

MAKE SURE, the larger inside dimension washer GOES IN FIRST (toward the clutch) then the smaller one goes later (toward the screw)

If you are long time Serpent racer, you will know those info....KronicRacer should knows.

[KronicRacer]

lol inspecting huh..... sounds like you broke out the digital calipers and did a full cavity search ;) ive used this clutch b4 in the rs4 3, hotbodies came out with it a while back for the nitro 3. nice very simple to work with very smooth.
i wonder how many revisions they are going to issue to the instruction guide by end of year:p

****also: i just went to refernce something on the old hot bodies instruction sheet for this clutch and they list more info than the book did. will post the instuctions later... this should be the page that hpi also included

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
When I was "INSPECTING" Rkmori's R40, I found out 2 things on centax that HPI didn't listed and I think they should...

(1) Thrust bearing.....all Centax are the same, including HPI one, nothing new at all, they just used the same parts from others, but remember to USE AE black grease to grease your thrust bearing (sandwich looking one) at least once a week before or after the race..........Team racer do that once every two 20 minutes heat.........

If you think they don't need to grease.......don't do that, and you will find out later, thrust bearing are like $20 each and not too many LHS stock that parts, and your centax will not run without it..

(2) Again, thrust bearing.........grab your digital caliper and measure the 2 outter washer at the INSIDE DIMENSION of both washer, and you will find out one washer inside dimension is LARGER then the other one......4.2mm and 4.0mm

MAKE SURE, the larger inside dimension washer GOES IN FIRST (toward the clutch) then the smaller one goes later (toward the screw)

If you are long time Serpent racer, you will know those info....KronicRacer should knows.

These minor details can cause problems later, The build instructions do not specify these items. As a matter of a fact the build manual make it appear that you should be installing the thrust bearings dry. I guess common sense would dictate that if something is spinning at 1000's of RPMs maybe a little grease might prolong the life of the part. So who is going to tell HPI that the build inst. book lack some info.....

Hey Rookie.....So I ADD shims to make the clutch engage EARLIER (at lower RPMs)??

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rkmori
These minor details can cause problems later, The build instructions do not specify these items. As a matter of a fact the build manual make it appear that you should be installing the thrust bearings dry. I guess common sense would dictate that if something is spinning at 1000's of RPMs maybe a little grease might prolong the life of the part. So who is going to tell HPI that the build inst. book lack some info.....

Hey Rookie.....So I ADD shims to make the clutch engage EARLIER (at lower RPMs)??


its like the k factory clutch the less wiggle it has the harder its going to engage so yes more shims earlier but harder shift.
minor details its an understatement... its a major thing. rookie is right at the moment its very difficult buying the thrust bearing by itsself unless you buy the whole clutch.

[KronicRacer]

dislexia attack, its the other way around if the distance is too much its a hard shift and if not it wont shift:o :o use the formula they gave you and it exceeds .5 it will be too hard of a shift
the amount of shims you use will depend on the motor too:o

[Rookie Solara]

The simple way to look at this is............look at the clutch in CROSE SECTION...........to push the BROWN clutch shoes toward the clutch bell, you have to have enough RPM generated by the engine in order to push that clutch........so the DISTANCE between the shoe and the clutch bell is the KEY.....The longer the distance (0.5mm or even more) the higher the RPM that the engine need to generate in order to PUSH the clutch toward the bell (to engage)....thats why when the centax engage (usually occured at 1/2 or even higher throttle position in order to get the car moving), the launch is usually very powerfull, but kinda delay, slow..........some ppl so used to the 2-shoes type and found it so un-responsive.

To make centax engage faster, you have to reduce the distance between the clutch and the bell (from 0.5mm to 0.3mm or even less)......in that way, clutch does not need to travel from NY to LA in order to engage with the bell........the result is much closer to the feeling of the stock 2-shoes type clutch, and it is a good setup for some LESS powerful engine like OS or HPI....

Centax works great on 15 and 21 engine due to the 2 plus HP powerplant.......engage the centax is a cake. However on the 12 engine..........more expansive engine (like Nova Mega, Rossi, Nova Rossi and other big boys) does have the advantage........due to the 1.5 plus HP output.......engagment should be much smoother and easier.

Adding shim is very personal.......add 1 shim at a time and try to run around on the track untill you feel more comfortable.........the closer the distance between shoes and bell, the faster the respond time......however, that give more stress to the CLUTCH SHOES and usually the life of the shoes get shorter.

Also, don't forget to take advantage of the clutch spring inside, that ALSO a key factor to determine the time of the engage (faster or slower of engagment)

[mariog]

Yup, the R40 instructions are very bad. They didn't say anything about greasing the thrust bearind and didn't mention that the Centax is adjustable! Poor explenation - I am lucky that I built an Impulse before, otherwise I would have been out of luck. Lots of HPI customers are beginners and chances are never had an Impulse or MTX, so unless they fix the instuructions they will have lots of worries on their hands.

Just finished breaking in the RB V12 - what an awesome new engine! Rody says that the standard V12 (p/n 1700-000410) is supposed to be just as powerful as the x12 Rody!!! The car handles great on the street with the stock setup. But I went over a bump in the street and it cartwheeled! I need a couple of spares (nothing major, just the front shock tower and plastic that covers the front diff). Tower says the spares are due in early Sept, but I can't wait. Anyone have any sugguestions besides going to HPI? Thanks.

[Toyotatogo]

Damn you broke your R40 already....... :eek:

[Rookie Solara]

First thing to learn...........never, NEVER break anything if your car is BRAND NEW out of the market..........

Now, you can try those old Serpent Impulse parts and see which one will work............I know one part, the wheel nut from Serpent should work.

Good luck finding parts for R40......I haven't seen any place stock them except in HK and Japan

[mariog]

Yup - it sucks! I will call HPI on Monday and get some parts. I know they will give me some since it is brand new and I cant buy parts elsewhere.

Rookie - our paths meet again! Remeber about 2 years ago we traded centax for standard clutch on the impulse?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by mariog
Rookie - our paths meet again! Remeber about 2 years ago we traded centax for standard clutch on the impulse?

Wow.....good memory, I remember who you are but just can't reconized your user name....

So, what do you think about the R40 compare to Impulse...? My only disappointment of the R40 is.....so NTC3, CHEAP plastic.

[mariog]

Yup, it looks like cheaper plastic as well as some parts, but then again it is priced cheaper than the impulse. Not bad for what I paid so far...

[RC_Alan]

True... I think it's more closer to the Mugen MTX3 then Serpent. There are some parts that you can get now as they are the same across the HPI line... You can use the Treaded Aluminum shock set Pt#72170.... I'm not sure about the Super front One-way Diff Pt#A959... I'll ask about that one... Mariog, until the hobby shops are fully loaded with spare parts, I would never run the car down the street. I know it's hard to resist, but just take it to your local track and drive at half speed and do some fine tuning with your setup. Practice when no one else is one the track and keep things safe... That car was never meant to be run/raced for street basing... I know you know that and you just cound'nt resist the temptation of the RB v12 motor sayin come on... You can do it...Pull the trigger...:D

[fastharry]

morning guys...


Just got back from the HPI Challenge in NJ........

It was a GREAT time.....and I wanted to say hi to all the guys that came up to meet me...It was really nice to meet all of you.....


Its nice to put names with faces(HI..frank 13!!!!)

A few of the guys had their R40's built already......Car looks really nice.....As soon as I unpack my 4 entries,and put TONS of spares away,I'm going to get cracking building mine..


Wish I could have done better(still finshed 5th a main in super,8th a in nitro mod,10 th a in rally)...

I learned a real valuable lesson(as did more then a few people)

Don't tune any engine in 90 degree Jersey shore summer heat,and expect it to run great when the temps(and humidity) drop 20 degree's)..esp 11 at night when the super mains went off..
:eek:



More tonite......take care guys..

and a special thanks to Henry from OHIO for pitting for me..you da man!!!!(we'll get 'em next year!!!)..

[Rkmori]

In comparison to the Racer 2, this car handles 100% better, unfortunatly, true handling could not be test because they set-up a oval track. But just from the Oval I can tell you the Racer 2 could not have kept up. I did very well up untill the Main race, where I took the turn too wide and pulled the trigger too early and hit the outer board. I completly popped the right front hub carrier off the balls. I manage to bend the CV shaft slightly, I think I can fix the shaft enough to race again, and the hub carrier seem to have only a small hairline crack on the lower ball cup. So if replacement parts do not become available at least I'm not totally out of the race.

I did find 1 vulnerable spot, and that is the tune pipe location, although I got hit hard enough to turn my round Paris pipe into a flattened paris pipe. The wire bent enough to allowing the pipe and wire to rub against the pully and belt totaly disabling the car. This happened 2 times just that the second time was not as bad. Major bullseye location for the other racers. The mount to the chassis could have had a little more thought to the design. I think I will to fire up ACAD this week....Hmmmmm......

[fastharry]

where was this race?....

[fastharry]

Originally posted by fastharry
morning guys...


Just got back from the HPI Challenge in NJ........

It was a GREAT time.....and I wanted to say hi to all the guys that came up to meet me...It was really nice to meet all of you.....


Its nice to put names with faces(HI..frank 13!!!!)

A few of the guys had their R40's built already......Car looks really nice.....As soon as I unpack my 4 entries,and put TONS of spares away,I'm going to get cracking building mine..


Wish I could have done better(still finshed 5th a main in super,8th a in nitro mod,10 th a in rally)...

I learned a real valuable lesson(as did more then a few people)

Don't tune any engine in 90 degree Jersey shore summer heat,and expect it to run great when the temps(and humidity) drop 20 degree's)..esp 11 at night when the super mains went off..
:eek:



More tonite......take care guys..

and a special thanks to Henry from OHIO for pitting for me..you da man!!!!(we'll get 'em next year!!!)..





Oh yeah.........Ray Murray and his group did a great job of hosting this event(please check out the HPI CHALLENGE link).....

and also....as usual.......Frank McKinney(from HPI) did his usual fantastic job of repping HPI....this year I got to meet Fred from customer service..he was a great help to me.(got me through tech FAST)..good job!!!!!!!

[Rkmori]

Originally posted by fastharry
where was this race?....

LHS.......Chicago, IL..... Hobby Town Oak Park.

www.chicagorc.com

Congrats on 5th place, A Main.

FYI to you guys that don't have this BLACK grease in your tool box, and before you go to your LHS and pay 3 times as much, this Black Grease is commonly called Molybdenum Grease or Moly Grease, you might want to try your local autoparts store. You can probably get enough to last you and your fellow racers 10 years for half the cost/oz. You just don't get the nice convenient little tube, although you could porbably get an infant oral medication syringe (type WITHOUT a needle) from your local Pharmacy and pack the grease in there for easier dispensing. Just an idea.....The more you save on the minor stuff the more you have to put to Hop-ups.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
Don't tune any engine in 90 degree Jersey shore summer heat,and expect it to run great when the temps(and humidity) drop 20 degree's)..esp 11 at night when the super mains went off..
:eek:


Wait.............11:00pm starting the Super Nitro A-main.....? Wow....I thougth ppl here from Chicago last year did a horrible job already, but I am sure the Jersey one just top the crown.