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View Full Version : prop sharpening tools


460_f100_dude
07-24-2003, 11:42 PM
what tools do you guys use to sharpen and balance your props, like jewler files? and what prop balancer do you all recomend. Thanks ahead of time Darren

Ron Olson
07-25-2003, 01:19 AM
I've used about everything to sharpen props. I mostly use Jewelers files but also my Dremel tool for faster work and final finishing. Fine grit sandpaper, sharpening stones, you name it, I've tried it.
I have an airplane prop balancer that I use, I can't think of the name of it off hand that works well. It depends on how much that you are going to use it as to how good a balancer that you want. The magnetic ones are probably the best, there is a person selling some nice ones on eBay quite often. Prather and Octura have some that work well. The Top-Flite magnetic is good also.

hydroracer
07-26-2003, 12:53 AM
i like to use small flat files for rough balancing. then i use a bench grinder with a coarse grade wire wheel to finish the balancing and gives a nice smooth blended-in finish that's tough to get with just a hand file. the wire wheels work great for smoothing and deburring the hub too. get them at the hardware store. don't hold the prop with your fingers if you do this!

a safe thing i recommend to use is a hand held prop tool that is kinda like a prop shaft with a drive dog on it to hold the prop instead of holding it with your fingers while working on it. the guy on ebay (roostertailz) who sells the magnetic balancer offers a quick release one that i highly recommend. his website is http://www.roostertailz.com . or you can just make one yourself. his holder and magnetic balancer are designed as a system to work together, the balancing shaft pops right into the hand held prop tool for ease of use. if you're doing really small props for like nitro .12's or small electrics, i think the acrylic prather balancer that uses razor blades might be SLIGHTLY more accurate, and cheaper too. (it will do larger props and works well too).

it's important to only remove metal from the backside of the blades, that's the side that faces toward the boat when mounted on it.

also, for best performance and least amount propwalk, you want the leading edges of the blades to be as sharp as possible, like a razor. :)