Kyosho Landmax Forum v2.0

[SixVi6-Camaro]

nice pic Jimmy33. I like the look of those ST wheels and tires on there. there is no limit to how high the engine mounts actually are so if the TTR mounts work I'd run with it. I have a couple of spacers on my 247 right now to raise it up enough to clear the pull start as it is.

I gave the tarmac's a quick single tank breakin test. temp was just below freezing on some dusty streets with lots of gravel in places. initial impressions in the driveway... wow! the suspension is very sensitive to changes and setups. the lack of foam and super stiff tires and sidewalls make the steering very responsive. I had to make sure the front toe setting was perfect to keep the car tracking straight as sone wheels was a bit off. I did give them an unexpected curb check test. :rolleyes: at a good speed I tried to slow down and locked up the tires and slid into a curb. the tires held to the rim fine and the only damage was a little bit of road rash on the edge of the tire.
I'd recomend 45 shore if you run in colder places. the 60 shore tires had no traction at all in the cold. if I put the 60's in the front I had no steering in the rear it did uncontrolable doughnuts. in the warmer weather I'm sure the 60 shores will work much better. I'll be able to test them in warmer weather this weeked as its forcasted to be in the upper 60'sF/20C this weekend. break out the shorts! lol..

the overall diamater of the tarmacs is 92mm and 40mm wide. I measured my mildly worn Kyosho soft rally tires and they came in at roughly 90mm. I found that the tarmacs do make contact with the front body mount (the "Y" shaped thing that comes off the shock tower to mount the body) when turned full lock with the suspension compressed. I simply shaved a bit of material off the mount and problem was solved. I had no other clearance problems at all.

thus far my two hacked oval hole 7.5 hexes are working fine. the hole for the pin only needs to be relocated by roughly .5mm in towards the knuckles and right now the only thing keeping my pins in are the actual wheel itself. when I remove the wheel the pin can fall out so just be aware of it and it won't be a problem. You can set the pin in place by buying a short set screw in the same pitch as the LM's wheel bolts but thus far I've had no problems using the wheels itself to hold the pin in place.

overall I can't say good or bad yet. I new the 60 shores wuld nto hook in freezing weather and I bought them for parking lot use this summer in the heat so until I get to test them out in that setting its undecided right now.

John

[SixVi6-Camaro]

one more reference pic.. this one is of my ovaled out pin hole on my 7.5 hub. as you can see its not much to make them fit.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Still working on my project landmax...its coming along slowly (my dang 10-12hr/day job keeps getting in the way:) ). I think im definitly going to get some tarmacs...not sure if 45 or 60 though (will be able to make a decision after Johns review....I want good traction but want the tires to last...ill most likely be running on "dirty" parking lots in the summer so his review will be greatly appreciated. Since my car will be using a very powerful engine (RB C5 still the front runner!) and a tire ripping three speed tranny I like the idea of using a tire that is wider, has no foam, and is very low profile= little or no "ballooning" and better AThandling the expected at 65-75mph speed runs. Ill probably order the OFNA "19 to 17mm"(PART#86000) hub adapters to use the tires as i dont have any mp7.5 hubs laying around and imagine the prices would probably be the same???? (nitrohouse lists the OFNA adapters for $9.95/pair).

Jimmy, I agree with John,
your lm looks pretty kick ass with those rims and tires...almost makes me want to keep my "onroad project" as a offroading rally machine.

[Xavier23]

I was wondering if anyone has put the O.S FS-40S-C 4 stroke engine in there LM 1 series. I found the Kyosho GTWO40 kit andwas wondering if there is any special mods. If you have used this engine can you post the cons and likes also. This is going to be my backyard basher since I also have a Inferno 7.5. Thanx for your time.



X

[Jimmy33]

my only problem is how to mount the mount. But at the mo the only way I can see is to put a metal plater on the bottom and bolt through it :cool:

[belgravekm]

hey jimmy 33 nice car:) what i want to know is how well does those tires work off road and in what conditions,and also can those tires work on the l1 rims or do i have to buy those rims:confused:

[Jimmy33]

Helo there. Those tyres I have found are the best for running off road, mud and grass (either wet or dry) because of their agressiver tread. I believe the standard, or soft rally tryes work best on dry gravel and slick on tarmac, buy anything rougher I would go for those tyres!!

As to whether they fit on the other rims - I beieve they do and there is a picture of some on some LM1 rims on a Imprezza a couple pages back. I fittted them on those rims because I was running a Stadium truck body which looked quite good, but it was rallying which called me. However I am now in two mood. Should I put the tyres on the white 6 spokers I have or keep them on the current rims as they do look much better than I orginally thought!

Also being in England I ahve a bit of a prob getting parts for my car (very long delivery times! :mad: ) but I was thinking to same time on getting the centre diff could I fit a centre diff from the Thunder Tiger EB4 buggy as I can can get a new diff unit on next day delivery! If you could give me the dimetions of the centren diff section, from the centre screw mounts that would be a start - thanks! :D

[Redfox]

Wow guys! This thread is certainly moving along quite quickly... i haven't run my LM for about 6 months now i think. Seems like that long anywayz. Good to see a lotta new faces in here.
Cya later :)

[Jimmy33]

Ok I am bringing the 4 stroke up to the serface as I am going to order this engine this after noon. I cannot get the fitting kit so can people tell me what I will need!

I think...
standard engine mounts
throttle linkage
engine :rolleyes:
90 degress servo horn (to change motion from lect right to forward back wards)
pipe
general screws etc :p
What clutch and fly wheel will I need?
and will I need a different shaft ot the one i have with my GS21R 2 speed

Thanks

James

(wish me luck!):cool:

[JonA]

Hello!

I could not wait any longer, and bought the tarmac2 tires for my Stratos today... I used the MP.7,5 hubs and ovaled out the holes as well. The guys at my LHS claimed that i could use the wheel shafts for the MP 7,5 as well. It is supposed to be a straight swap, and then i would not have to drill out the holes on the hubs. I found the wheelshafts to expensive, so i didn't buy them.
My tarmacs are 35 shore and stick very good to dry cold tarmac.. :cool:

The car becomes very sensitive to gravel and other irregularities on the road surface when running the tarmacs but i am very happy with them so far..

Sorry i cannot help you on the 4 stroke subject Jimmy33.. Hope you figure it out!

Here is a pic of my Stratos fitted with the new wheels:D

[Madaz]

nice wheels jona :)

KIRK take note.... i mentioned in a previous post the medial pro tarmac wheels come in a 17mm OR 19mm hex size!! The shop i saw them at had both hex sizes. (anyway ViSix6 has an easy solution it seems) They were £32 a pair but i suppose that is value for money as they should last a while.

The last problem fitting my engine i sorted in an unconventional way, none of the local hobby shops had a small enuff ball joint for the slide carb throttle linkage!!!! No problem, i used the larger kyosho part, melted it with a lighter and squeezed it over the hyper carb ball! hehe

At last i could start the break in of my hyper, have run one tank so far coasting slowly around the back yard at my g/f parents house.

looking at this pic it looks like there is no exhaust smoke?? but i assure u i left the factory settings and it was plenty smokey.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Jimmy33.. I know next to nothing at all about 4 strokes. you might wat to ask some of the basics like the engine mounts, flywheels, gearing and such over on the MaxxTraxx.com's 4 stroke forum. There is lots of info pined up at the top on setups and great info there and I'm sure that could point you in the right direction.

I got to test the tarmacs at length in the warm weather. roughly upper 60's F/20C in a large parking lot. in places it was gravely and dusty. I'm glad to say the 60 shores stuck nicely. I tried the 60's in the front with the 45's in the rear which made for a nice stable runner with good traction. this combo also made it hard to slide it around at all but eazy driving which is great for speed runs. When I switch them around, 60's in the rear/ 45's front it made for some wild on the edge drifting which was at times a bit too much to handle. As Jon A said the are sensitive to bumps, gravel and imperfections in the road because there are no foams, but also this means no balooning at all! These babys will hold true and stable at any speed!

I'd like to pick up another pair of 45 shores to see how it handles with the same on all four corners but that will be some other time. wear thus far after about 8 tanks (6 of which was hard driving) is non-existant. I give them a thumbs up and add that probably the best all round setup imo would probably be 45 shores on all four corners. the 60's just had nothing when it got cold.

I was told that you could run the buggy shafts as well but man! it was just too expensive. I had a set of 7.5 buggy hubs or free anyways so I did it the cheap way. :) if you can the easiest way would be to get the 19mm ones from the start. In the US it seems 19mm anything is hard to come by.

John

[Madaz]

hi

today i tried to break in my new motor but only got through 3/4 of a tank before i gave up and went home crying!!!! lol
the engine revs out of control when i start it and sometimes it drops to an idle but then usually stalls. This is only the 2nd tank. the needle settings are from the factory. It is VERY rich.

Because of the high revs i think i burnt out my clutch!
Is it revving so high because of a too rich mixture?
With the cvec should lean the mixtures before i start the run in?

Help:confused: :confused: :confused:
madaz

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
Thanks for the input, but the only distibutor here in the USA (that I know of) only carries the 17mm size medial pros....why couldnt some things be easier?!? Cool pic of the lm buzzing through the grass. Sorry about the engine probs...I dont have any experience with the hyper or the cvec so I am of little help. I think John will be the man to help you with your troubles :)

Kirk

[SixVi6-Camaro]

hmmm... well when I called GS about RCD I asked about other distrubitors. They have a list, Online here, (http://www.generalsilicones.com/dealers.html) of all the distrubitors that can get their products. I asked about it at one LHS that was on the list of distrubitors yseterday about getting 45 shores. They said they could order them but could not give any eta on when they would arrive. No place online has them in stock. :( btu at least I know that I could order them and get them. I forgot to ask if I could get the 19mm versions though.

Madaz..

I'm thinking its an engine air leak, fuel system leak, or just part of the hypers p.i.t.a. breakin. The cvec will not cause RPM changes like that. first check all your fuel lines and the tank for leaks. then be sure the carb's fuel inlet is not loose. then loosen the carb's retaining screw. then pull the carb out ofthe case a few mm's and press it back in tightly. while pressign down retighten the retainer screw. and try running it again.
if thats not the case.. hypers have been known to leak air at the backplate where it meets the case and the carb where it meets the case. look for a buildup of dirt around the carb's base or around the backplate where it meets the engine. this will help tell you if there is a small leak there.
to seal the backplate.. remove the pull start, then remove the backplate and put a coat of automotive silicone gasket maker (available at any auto parts store) on the o ring of the backplate enough to coat the o ring not soo much it squeezes into the engine. then reassemble the backplate and pull start but don't pull the pull start! the compression created will blow through the silicone sealer. Next the carb.. remove it and put a bit of sealer just like the backplate and press the carb back on tightly while you tighten down the retaining screw. let it sit several hours before you run it again. hopfully that will solve the problem.

I have my friends Ofna Lx pro RTR buggy right now because he crashed it realy hard. standard 1/8 buggy tires are very large compared to the tarmc II's. I had orgoten just how big 1/8 buggy tires are.. it been a while. Also, off the Lm subject though, I have to add.. What a cheap junk buggy the LX Pro is! the chassis doesn't have upswept edges, the diffs are not shimed from the factory, everything is very high center of gravity, the tiny bearings on the tiny and incredibly weak 6mm axles are a joke, all the electronics it comes with are garbage and.... well, I don't need to go on. its $300 rtr so I new it would be crap but I have a feeling I'm going to be working on his buggy constantly. he might as well put me on the payroll! lol.. my LM2 would be stronger off road than his buggy. ok i'm done.. no more ranting.

John

[Madaz]

thanks Sixvi6 i have tightened the fuel inlet retainer and sealed the carb join with silicon. i started taking off the pull start but didnt want it to unwind and not be able to refit it. So for now ill try it with those fixes. I will try leaning it out a little bit by the high end needle if i still have poor idle and revving by itself.

I got a new clutch. the old one had melted itself into the clutch bell.
What do u mean by "hypers p.i.t.a. breakin"?

Ill let you know as soon as i next run it.

[belgravekm]

P.I.T.A(PAIN IN THE ARSE):D

[SixVi6-Camaro]

lol.. yup pita breakin. most sport engines are much looser and nicer to break in but the piston/sleve in the hyper .21 is very tight. it means a harder longer breakin but overall the engine will last longer before it needs a rebuild.

John

[KIRK S. DECKER]

John,
I was able to order some tarmac tires thru rc discounters (on back order until end of march) and everything seemed to go thru Ok (confirmation of "order pending" thru email, "secure web mail site" etc) but on other threads on this board people are saying that the rc discounter site is still down!?!?! If so I dont know how I was able to get an account and order a couple of days ago ???and i figured everything was OK and was back up and running. You said that they contacted you...anyway I can get a hold of them to make sure everything will be OK (phone #, fax, etc). Any input would be appreciated. Im sure I wont have any problems but just want to make sure!


Thanks, Kirk

[Jimmy33]

Hello after some time thinking I ahve decided to start using thuder tiger center diff unit as I can get them quicker and cheaper (£4.99) and I can get them locked which is great - so it means I will be running them with a Thunder Tiger engine and a cevec pipe or the kyosho tuned one which ever will give me more power!

[Madaz]

When i tried it it wouldnt start and i noticed when i was pulllin the starter cord blocking the exhaust the fuel took about 50 pulls to reach the carb inlet. So i wound the low needle out about 1 turn and WHAHHHAY it STARTED and ran fine, In fact i ran 3 tanks on this rich setting and it didnt stall once and the idle was nice and low.
Maybe it is because i sealed the carb join, but probly cause i adjusted stuff without realising.

I got a massive Blister from the pull start before i tried richning up the low needle but i dont care because finally my new motor works properly :) :)

[JonA]

I have now tested my Tarmac tires properly... I was out driving for a couple of hours today, and my rear tires are nearly bald:(

The stick extremly well to clean asphalt!! I had to lower the car a lot to avoid flipping over in tight turns.. My ground clearance is now about 1 cm in the front and 1,5 in the rear. This works pretty well.

I am writing this just to tell you that if you are considering buying the tarmac tires, do buy one of the harder compounds. Mine are 35 shore, and nearly worn out after running them twice. About 3 hours of driving each time.

I.m glad you figured out the problem with your hyper engine Madaz! If you have had the same weather in the UK as we have had in Norway i bet you have been out racing:D

Here is a pic of one of my 35 shore tarmacs...

[Madaz]

jeeeez!! that is alot of wear already. I guess the hardest medial pros would be a bit more durable.
Sixvi6 said the harder tires had very little grip but when all 4 tires are hard compound i think the handling should be more balanced and good for some 4wheel drifting. What do you think john?

from the wear pattern it looks like you are running negative camber on the rear Jona? Or maybe the wear is from huge powerslides whilst on 2 wheels? ;)

The weather has been good here in the uk and i have now ran 9 tanks and need to buy some more fuel :p The settings are still a bit rich but im leaning it out a little bit with each tank.

The hyper pullstart has developed a slight slip problem after the break-in but only once in a while and is not enough to annoy me yet. So far im very happy with the hyper21 and power is plentiful considering i got the lower priced 4 port version :cool:

[Landmax2B]

Hows evreybody doing? I've been in R/c for about 10 years now, but have sold all my cars/trucks about 2.5 years ago since i had zero time for them.

However this summer I plan to get back into the hobby. I had previously had the Landmax1 but was not impressed, so after a couple months I sold it (barely lost any money...)

Anyways I am looking to get back into rc cars with the newer Landmax2. And had some questions for the people who have done more heavier modifications to the kit.

I'm an engineer student and have access to amazing machinery, as well as great materials. So I plan on fabricating MANY of the parts on the car myself to be lighter aluminum or composite. And taking some ideas from the monster truck guys, I plan on making a veyr lightweight space frame Choromlycage for the car to sit under the body. Similar to the newera cages that sit right under the truck bodies. The added weight will replace the weight I plan on saving with all the new parts i design/fab for the car.

My plan is to first buy the kit byitself, and make all the chassis parts I can think of before even running the car. Then once I am satisfied with the chassis, I'll get all the normal runing equipment (radio, batteries, eqiupment, slicks, hardercore offroad tires, etc) and I'll run it first with the gs21R and then move upto a better engine.

This is where I need some help. Since I have not been in the hobby for the past 2.5 years or so, I am not aware of any of the new engines out there.

What kind of engines have people been trying in thier LM2's?

The reason I am getting a LM2 instead of a 7.5 or a dedicated onroad car is merely that... the LM2 can be run on both, and can be made to do both fairly well in its new updated form.

So to recap, what engines have people been testing in the kit, and what problems have been encountered?

Thanks for your time, and I hope to have the kit in my hands (new or used) by the end of May. Then I will start designing parts from hub carriers to the cage.

Later :)

[JonA]

Hi!

I know the wear pattern on my rear tires says i'm running POSITIVE:D (negative camber is when the tire is pointing inwards at the top) camber, but they actually are 0 degrees or maybe even a bit negative... I think all the grip made them wear that way. Another thing that might have caused them to wear that way was the layout of the "track" we drove today.

Another thing worth mentioning about the tarmacs are the warm up time they need to grip really well. On the first two-three laps the grip isn't that good, but after that they stick like glue ( and make the car flip over...

:p

Here is a pic of the camber i was running today

Have a great week everyone!!

Jon Anders

[Landmax2B]

Also how much can the GS21r be modified? As far as raising compression, different heads, carb's, etc..?

I remember the Gs21 I had in the LM1 and it was pretty bad. How much power does the GS21r put out, and what rpm's?

Thanks

Any other inexpensive enignes that work well in the Landmax2?

[JonA]

Hello, and welcome to the LM forum!

I haen't got that much to say about different engines. I wore out the stock GS21r engine, and replaced it with a SH/Megatech 3 port engine. I bought it mostly because of it being cheap, but i am very satisfied with it. It produces plenty of power and is very reliable. That does it for me. I will however consider one of the larger engines like the 24,7 xtm engine the next time. I bet SixVi6 has got more to say about the engines..:D

I just wanted to give you a tip on a web page. Go to www.thorbob.com and check out his landmax project! Alot of nice machined parts there..

Would it not be a good idea to build the car and test it before you start modifying it? That way you would have a better idea of what your improvements does to the handling and performance of the car?? Just my opinion..:)

Jon Anders

[Landmax2B]

Yea thats something i consderined, but what i am first going to do is make the general parts I know will break or are inferior to something I can redesign/fab up, similar to the ones offered in the aftermarket.

Then once I am satisfied I'll run the car, see what happens and go from there.

I was looking at that Xtm 24.7, they are pretty inexpensive, but would paying another $75-100 be worth it for a .21 that is a bit more refined?

Thanks for the reply :)

[vad]

Can someone give me the length of the Stock shocks or large turbo shock. I am planning on installing the 3.5mm front shock set from mp-7.5 k2 kit on the LM2. The large shocks are 110mm for the front shocks.

[vad]

Either im blind but where can i get a set of adjustable turnbuckles for the LM2?

[SteinR]

You're blind Vad ;)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=gtw002&FVPROFIL=++

[Madaz]

Hi, welcome Landmax2b it sounds like you have some cool ideas. I can recommend the hyper21 engines, they seem good value, well made, easy to break in. But i am not too experienced in nitro engines so have little to compare to (Aside from the kyosho engine which left a lot to be desired.)

i have a tuning question about my hyper??? I have run about 10 tanks thru it now and have leaned out the HS needle to the point where the engine will come on "song" and rev freely to top speed.
However sometimes the engine will bog and splutter from a standing start and full throttle will not clear it,sometimes for 2 minutes or so. It will keep spluttering and run at only about 1/2 speed. When i lean out the HS needle more the engine reaches a very high top speed and im thinking it may be too lean. Does a rich LS needle bog the top end like this?

Also sometimes it stalls without warning while driving about. Usually the car accelerates from idle, smooth and fast.

The low end needle is basically untouched from the factory setting.

cheers for any advice....... madaz

[Landmax2B]

You might want to adjust your low speed, and check for airleaks.

Thanks for the compliment :) The designs I have for my project landmax2 are under way. i started drawing the cage in cad, and getting some design ideas for the car. I am deciding what i exactly want to do as far as what parts I will buy and what parts I will make. When I get better designs down I'll post the cad renders, but I am keeping it pretty tight for a while until the designs have been built most likely, which wont be until i get the car. I probably wont run the car for 4-5 weeks fomr the time I physically get it, as I want to build the chassis/suspension/cage up before i run it.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
I agree with Landmax2b, I think your low speed needle needs to be adjusted (from most of what you describe it sounds like you need to lean it out a bit). Of course with out seeing it for myself I cant be sure but I think this would be a good place to start.

[vad]

I should be getting my LM2 within a week, I am intersted in adding some hopups while I go through my initial build on the car. Can some one recommend a few part I would need to do the following.....

1. installing a picco .21 eng without pull start.
(from my understanding, I will need the eng mount plates and and mp-7.5 stock eng mounts with stock flywheel)

2. Adustable turnbuckles all the way around. (The only part number I can find is GTW022, This seems like it would be for the steering rods and not the front upper arms and rear upper arms, any part numbers for these.

3. Front bumper with Urithane bumper. (have no idea where to get this from or if its worth getting.

4. 46T steel gear

5. Anyone have part number for Rear lower arms.

6. 17mm hubs on front and rear axle. (what other method can i use rather than ovaling out the wheel hubs, dfferent drive shafts mp-7.5...?)

8. 20 or 22 Deg front hubs from mp-7.5 k2 buggy

7. T2.2 truck tires on mp-7.5 rims....?

Thats all I can come up with now. any suggestions on the above is appreciated.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Landmax2B..

GS21 is not powerfull and although the newest Gs21r's are better than the original GS21's they still wear fast due to the ABN sleve and like to run hot. they are at the lower end of power for .21's. probably in the 1.5-1.7hp range. there isn't much that can be done to make them any faster. I tried a few things like playing with 30% and higher nitro, glow plugs and head shims.. I found that the best thing to do is get a good pipe and run the GS21 until it wears out.

On replacement engines... I run the XTM 247 on my Lm2 and on my t-maxx. the problem I had was it ran hot. in the 280+ range when it was rich on hot days. I bought Nova RC heat sink heads for both my 247. temps came down and the engines really moved out. the 247 is a torque engine though and does not rev all that high. The Ofna Hyper line is also a great choice.. the 8 port engine really screams and have a nice powerband and good top end but do have quite a tough breakin. Also anything with the Picco name is a good low buck choice as well. for all out great power (but you will need a starter box for it and breakin will be tough) you can't go wrong with the RB S7.

Madaz..
I agree lean out the low speed needle a tiny bit as a time. the ocasional stalling could be due to it not being completely broken in. it takes a good 10 tanks possibly more to really get the p/s to loosen up on hyper engines.

tarmac 2's...
thus far I've run about 12 tanks through my Lm2 with the tarmac II's. So far both the 60 shores in the front and the 45 shores in the rear are still nicely treaded but I've still not had a chance to punish them hard on a parking lot track against my friends as of yet. that will be the true test.

vad..
all part's and #'s can be found Right here (direct link to LM2 parts at tower hobbies) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=KYOC0543) I also have scaned all the instructions on my site Right here. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html) so there are more part #'s available there.

1. for the engine yes you need IFW107, IFW108, and IFW109.

2. upper arm turnbuckles. I actually fround some that were made for the GP20's upper rods at my LHS. they were a bit too long so I shaved roughly 2mm off the total length to use them on my LM2. I don't remember the part number though. :(

3. there is no large front bumper for the LM2. if you wanted one you would have to make one yourself somehow.

4. & 5. IF105 I believe is the part # for the steel spur gear and the arms are sold on a tree with one front and one rear lower arm together. part # is GT100 I believe.

6. the cheapest option for 17mm hubs is Ofna part # 86000 (listed at Ace hardware hobbies) (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_38_236&products_id=4129&osCsid=d2f39102b51cb4f9ac364a26029c4917)

7. Nope.. 2.2 truck tires won't work on LM rims.

whew.. long post.

John

[vad]

John,
I wasnt refering about installing 2.2 truck tires on LM rims, but the MP-7.5 17mm rims. I will give one set a try and see how that comes out.

[Landmax2B]

Thanks. Yea I remember when i had my LM1 the engine was Pathetic and run super hot! I will probably get the XTM or one of those hyper engines, but thats down the line.

What "cons" can you find for the 247 not revving as high, whats it do top out at like 25K? Torque is perfect for this application as it a rally car and needs torque to pull out of corners and drive all 4wheels hard under all rpm bands.

Its going to be a moderately inexpensive engine replacement, meaning under $200.

My main concern, well for the most part anyways, will be the chassis, cage, and suspension, probably brakes too.

Thanks for the help as I am starting to get back into the hobby and see kind of new things are in the community. Mostly its all the same $hit, since i have only been out of the hobby for a couple years, but this looks like one of the best universal kits out there to me. other then buying an all out onroad car or a kyosho pimped buggy... its a good way in between.

I should be starting my project at the end of may once i have all my plans covered for the summer. I'll keep you pboys posted :)

[vad]

Landmax2b,
Why not consider the OS RZ-B01, Tower hobbies has them for $200.00. Then engs are so nice and so simple to tune. It has gobs of power on hand. I dont know about the XTM eng, but OS has been around for a while and with a $200.00 price tag you might want to seriously consider it.

[Landmax2B]

Wow I think I just found the engine I am going to get :)
Thanks VAD. The last engine I bought was a .15cv for an hpi racer team i ran, but I sold the team for $650 when i got out of the hobby (i lost about $2K in that deal for what its actual worth was....whatever).

I have used about 4-5 other OS's and agree they are easy to tune and are not only reliable, but relatively trouble free if broken in and maintained correctly.

If anyone has used this engine, or has experience with it in any car, please let me know.

And if anyone has a better option engine let me know, thanks.

One problem, how come these are pictures with two different shafts? http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/osmg2065.jpg http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2066-01b.jpg

[vad]

LM2B,
If you use the OS eng get the one with the longer shaft (Pilot shaft). If you dont, you will need to buy a front adaptor for the non pilot shaft motor (more money you see) You will need to buy the eng plates ($10) eng mounts ($10). $20 For that motor its well worth it. Now comse the part I didnt tell you, if you get the OS motor, I recommend you get a good tune pipe. RB063, OS T2050, Rex086 (hard coat pipe). Initially you will spend some money on the pipe and eng, but its well worth it.

Also, If you are ordering from Towerhobbies use this Ad number it will save you $20.00 for total over $200.00 but its good for 30 days. AD# 01046.

[vad]

I almost forgot, Do these things only if you are planning to race. The combo for rz-v01 with T2050 is pricey, but you will be very happy. I know several 1/8 offroad racers that rave about the combination of the two. I can tell you one thing, OS engs are the easiest the tune and hold there tune very well.

[Landmax2B]

Yea I knew about these extra costs, I was in nitro for about 5 years before I had to stop b/c of college so I am not a new Newbie ;) But I have just not been in the scene as far as new engines, parts, the basis of how these 2stroke engines, and the physics and dynamics behind the tuning is the same.

Eitherway with engine (it says direct fit for inferno), pipe, batteries, batteries charger, starter box, accessories (plugs, engine mounts, etc) I figure $300, and its $450 for the kit itself, plus $175 for radio and servos... we're at a grand already! Jesus....Anyways this is why I am not running the car when I get it. I will buy the kit and start developing parts for it, and redesigning what i feel needs to be redone. As well as the complex cage I have already in motion. I probably wont have the gear for 5-7 weeks from when I initially get the kit, not a big deal, I'll be busy racing on the track, working, and racing shifter karts all summer, as well as that one damn summer course!

Thanks for the help... I probably wont be on here for like 2 months now... mad work and crunchtime for formula sae team, but i'll update you guys on how the project is going. peace

P.S. I might fab up a custom tuned exhuast... it should be pretty slick and provide the same gains the standard tuned pipes do. Should be fun!

That Rb063 pipe is $60 or a little less at some place. I will prbably use that a normal sport header to base the system I'll design on. Hint: Wont exit the side :) But pipes on 2strokes are tricky, so I'll see.

[Madaz]

hi, just seen this Alfa 156 landmax1 on ebay......

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1200&item=3123448048&rd=1

It is a UK auction, seller claims it has hardly been run, maybe someone here would be interested.

[Jimmy33]

ok going to be putting my landmax into storage untill 10th June what should I do to it apart from the stuff for the engine?

[Madaz]

Thanks for the tuning tips folks :)

jimmy you could take the weight off the tyres and suspension and remove the batteries.

I was driving today and made this picture to post.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
Cool pics!!! If it was not for the yellow antenna tube you would swear your looking at the real rally action.

[vad]

Jimmy33....
you should take the entire car apart clean in and WD 40 all parts except oring, all metals and plastic pieces. Store in a towel and build it back up when you decided to run you car again. Its alot of work.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

2.2 truck tires won't work on standard buggy rims. No way. just the buggy's rim, without the tire, is about the same diamater as the outside diamater of the 2.2 tire.

[vad]

John,
I will have to correct you on that one, 2.2 truck tires Will fit on 1/8 scale buggy rims. Take a bit of work but they can be put on. I will make up one set and post a pic here. I just have to figure out which onroad tire to go with..... Road rage, road hwags II ,or speed hawgs II...?

[belgravekm]

i,m looking at a four stroke engine(O.S. FS-40S-CX w/40P Carb )
for my landmax 1.is this any good?i know that a four stroke engine has more torque than the two stroke but it's overall speed is much slower,is it that significantly slower?i want to use my two speed tranny with this engine will it still work or will i need an adapter to go with it.i've never heard any of these engines before,all keep hearing is that they sound like the real thing(kewl)i don't intend to race but i can do with some speed to get this baby to take off wrc :D

[Jimmy33]

ok 4 storke engine - good choise

Overal single speed 4 is slower than a single speed 2

2 speed 4 is aroung the same is a single (powerfull) 2

This is the engine which I will be fitting after my exams on around the 10th of June, and best thing I am getting it witha pull start (same engine as yours) it is an amazing engine and it sounds much better than a 2 stroke I know as one of my mates has one in his landmax

[Madaz]

hi all, the forum has been down :( At last i can post my question :)

this weekend I was driving on tarmac and the handling was very poor, although it was setup for offroad driving (too high ground clearance).The rear shocks need to be harder because the front wheel was lifting during cornering.

Do you guys know of a good way to lock the centre differential as i dont like the power-understeer or my front wheel lifting and wearing my tires too fast.
I dont see the point of the centre diff anyway. Every 4wd buggy ive owned has handled well with the normal 1 piece centre driveshaft.

this pic shows the front wheel in mid air.

[vad]

Madaz,
There are two ways to lock your center diff. Use the Fioroni center lock out diff, or put glue in your center diff, JB weld.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
One other way you can lock the diff (and change it back to diff action later if wanted) is to load it full of the "heaviest" grease you can find...at least 100,000 wt or higher (both mugen and kyosho make grease this heavy). The result is very little diff action, but it can be reveresed if you decided to run your car on very uneven terrain.

...btw Vad's suggestion of using JB weld is good...Ive done it myself and the stuff holds like a SOB without adding hardly any wt.



Kirk

[Madaz]

cheers vad and kirk i will try the thick grease first in case i dont like the result.

I have locked the rear diff on a few of my real cars which involved welding the small diff gears together. this was great for doing donuts in narrow roads but caused the rear tyres to wear out fast! Eventually i sheared an axle which put an end to that fun but then i could burnout thru 1,2,3 and into 4th gear. (power only to 1 wheel) :D much fun!!!

[Landmax2B]

Sorry to have to say this, but I think my landmax project is going to be postponed for a long time. I was going over the costs that the project would cost for parts alone (radio, kit, engine, etc) and it was about $850, and thats before I started to put my own money into materials for my own designs. So we're talking $1K+ for a r/c project that would be awesome fun, but its just too much money for an r/c project at this time. With the E36 racecar project this summer, rebuilding my VW tranny, shifter karitng, racing on the track, fsae, other vw and bmw projects...as well as work, and data acquisition training, I just wont be able to fit it in.
Unless someone wants to donate a kit to me ;)

Anyways I'll keep updated with this forum, but at the moment, unless I come into a free kit, or run into an extra $1K, i'll have to wait until next summer...whatever, my other projects are better then the landmax anyways :)

Later guys have fun in the dirt

[Jay_esS]

Hey guys

I've had my LM2 built for a few weeks now but haven't had as much time to run it as I would have liked. I'm pretty impressed with it so far.
KIRK - I couldn't get the insert thing together so I'm going to use the stock tyers for off-road - I got a set of Medial Pro Tarmac II pre-glued tyres/rims from Three5models (UK) They are 45 shore and 19mm hex but not a direct fit. The wheel hex is thinner than the stock rims and requires a small washer / spacer between the wheel and the hub hex so that the wheel bolt can fasten down onto the wheel - I haven't run this set-up yet as I only got the washers today but it should work fine.

I also got some diff oils - 1000,7000,5000/rear,middle,front and hope to fill the diffs soon - Should I remove any grease from the diff internal gears before putting in the diff oil?

I'm considering ordering 2 pairs BSW-72 Shocks - But at £44 per pair I have my doubts as to whether they're worth it. - Does anybody have these ? - Are they any good?
What spring rates and oil weights do you guys use both on and off road?
I'll post again once I've run the Tarmac II tyres- J.

[Landmax2B]

I saw an ofna 8 port in action yesertday in a tamiya terra crusher (or something like that thier new monster truck). The truck was pretty basic and looked like, well a toy. The engin was performing well, but its mid range was not as impressive as its high end, however ti was running nicely, we leaned it out and it did not get that hot either.


BUt again I am going to have to postpone my landmax project... someday someday :)

[vad]

Well I'm almost finished with the LM2. Just have to cut up the body, glue the tires and test run the eng.

[vad]

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/07/10524/10524812_0_7724.fpx,0,0,1,1,1024,768,FFFFFF


http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/07/10524/10524819_0_4998.fpx,0,0,1,1,512,384,FFFFFF


http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/07/10524/10524820_0_6755.fpx,0,0,1,1,512,384,FFFFFF

[vad]

More pics can be seen at

http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/Album.asp?s=cano&a=1342248&u=1460877

[Landmax2B]

You are making me jealous... now I am rethinking to take on this project next year :)

[vad]

how the heck do i post pics on the RCzone

[vad]

Got many things worked out on the LM2, but there are a few things I still need to figure out. With the Speed hawg truck tires mounted on MP-7.5 rims the tire seem very close to the manifold. At times close to 1mm to 1.5mm from the manifold. I tried two pipes one the Rex 053 which is mounted on the car now, and a picco manifold, both are very close to the rear tire.

Is there a manifold which bends more forward increasing the distance between the rear tire and manifold.......?

[Landmax2B]

Is there a way to widen the track to make the track wider so you wont have that problem (just a thought without having a kit or specs in front of me).

[Madaz]

Cool pictures Vad, Nice mods :)

My manifold is about 3-5 mm away from my tyre and im concerned when i get the medial pro tarmac2 tyres it will be too close.

I have considered cutting 5 mm out of the middle of the manifold with a hacksaw and then TIG welding or brazing it together again since i can use this equipment at my work. Aluminum can be TIG welded but this can be tricky with very thin pipe like mine is. Since you have a spare manifold cut and file it till you get the angle/length correct then take it to a small metal shop and im sure they will do it for you for a minimal charge. (maybe take the manifold to the metal shop first to check if they have the equip to reweld it.) this would probably be cheaper than the price of a new manifold.

Another way for 1-3mm more clearance is to mark on the plastic sideguard where the silicone exhaust coupler sits on it then cut away the plastic with a sharp knife up to the rear screw hole. (Take CARE cutting this plastic it is tough and the knife can slip easily !!!!)
This allows the manifold to twist lower down and away from the wheel. (*see the picture of the underside of my chassis) This gave me only a little more clearance but also allows fuel leaking from the exhaust coupler to drip away from your chassis. (A GOOD thing)

I have the BSW-72 Shocks and they are very good quality. They dont leak a drop of oil and soak up the bumps nicely. the dust boot on the shaft keeps all the crap out of them. Look at my picture, I dont clean them much!!!!!!
I would recommend them but my LM1 came second hand with them included so i didnt pay for them as such (they are expensive but if you want to pay for quality i doubt these will disappoint).

I dont know about spring rates but i think my rear springs are too soft my cars rear end squats in the corners and during acceleration. I packed my centre diff with grease ( just some general grease i got from work) and it stiffened up the diff action a bit. The handling seemed a bit better. I would like to try it with some thicker grease when i get some. Remove the majority of the exsisting grease Jay but any leftover will soon get mixed in :)

Next week im gonna start fabricating a new 3mm Chassis to replace the stock 2.5mm stock one. Mine has a slight kick up at the front which im sure was not standard on the LM1??? and it has has some hard hits on the front which is why i think it is bent.
I will countersink all the holes for a smooth underside and extend the suspension bottom out tabs. Apart from that maybe anyone has any ideas i could try implement into the chassis design.
Phew long post, i better think about going to work now!!! :P

[vad]

Wrong distance on the manifold and tire. I realized that 1.5 to 1mm is almost nothing. Mine will be about 2 to 3mm depending on the suspension set up. I just realized this morning, if i change the gearing to 46T and 13T that should allow me more room between the manifold and rear left tire. At the moment the set up on the car is 48T and 15T. The track I plan on racing at is small, so the 44T and 15T is too high. Plus Ill be racing against a group of 1/8 scale buggies, HB lightings' and mugen mbx-4 XRs. I will be the only K Car out there.

[vad]

landmax2b,

forget modding the car, just have fun running the car. I only did what I did to the car to make it competative against some race ready 1/8 scale buggies. I didn't want to run my buggy onroad like the rest of these guys, so i decided to get the landmax and race it against them.

[vad]

Moving the eng didnt help.... And by doing so I messed up even more. I over stretched the springs on my one piece pipe so now I have to use the two piece pipe set up. Now the manifold is rubbing on the tires.... Guess I have to run the stock tires...

[Jimmy33]

hello

despite putting the car away I am still getting ugrade bits to fit when it comes out the cupboard, the four stroke I know have and all the linkages. While I was flicking through my latest version Radio Control Car Racer I saw a picture of a simple by nice Citroen Xsara from Carson and I was wondering if anybody knew anything about it - like, can it fit ona Landmax? and it is cheap at on £22.50!!!!! :D

[vad]

Drove the LM2 for the first time today, and oh my.... this car is crazy fast. I was at the onroad track racing against some 1/8 offroad buggies, and I just couldnt believe how the LM2 ran with or if not past some of the buggies. The acceleration was there when needed, the cars steering is silkly smooth, super quick some times too much.
For tires for onroad driving or racing, use the proline 2.2 inch rear 1/10 buggy Road Rage tires. Hold up very well and grip very nicely when on power.

[Madaz]

vad........... glad you are impressed with your LM speed. I am interested to see what the proline tyres look like on the car. could you post a picture please. I am getting some onroad tires soon and was planning on buying the medial pro tarmacc2's.

Jimmy the carson bodies fit on the full width 1/8 buggys i think and would be too wide on a LM chassis. I have seen one at my LHS and it is a huge bodyshell. If only the kyosho shells were as reasonably priced, i would have a few spare bodies standing by:0

heres a picture, what do you think? I really should make a website i have loads of pictures of my landmax.

[french-fry]

Well i just got back from drivin the landmax around with a couple friends. We went out to a nice big parking lot here at UCLA and had a blast. My LM was up against an HPI RS4 SS and a Serpent Impulse and my car performed much better than I expected. The GS21-R is just about out of compression (I've got the sore arm to prove it) but it still managed to beat both the RS4 and the Impulse off the line. Top end was the same story for the RS4, but the Serpent caught up and passed me. Overall, I was very impressed. Unfortunately, my friend with the Impulse is gonna go put a two-speed in his car and I don't know if i'll beat him at all after that. For me though, I'm lookin to get a new engine, might get an XTM 24.7 but probably I'll get an O.S. of some sort. Sorry I don't have any video clips, I forgot to bring my camera.

-Alex

Oh one other thing, try this link out its pretty cool:
Cool Commercial (http://www.honda.co.uk/newcars/accord300k.html)

[vad]

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/12/10541/10541960_0_0296.fpx,0,0,1,1,2272,1704,FFFFFF

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/12/10541/10541962_0_8491.fpx,0,0,1,1,2272,1704,FFFFFF


http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/12/10541/10541968_0_1496.fpx,0,0,1,1,2272,1704,FFFFFF

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/12/10541/10541967_0_5328.fpx,0,0,1,1,2272,1704,FFFFFF

[vad]

In the pic you will see 4 types of tires


1. 1/8 scale Road rage tires
2. 1/10 scale truck speed hawg2 tires mounted on 1/8 scale rims
3. Stock landmax tires
4. 2.2" rear 1/10 scale buggy Road rage tires.



http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/12/10541/10541963_0_8187.fpx,0,0,1,1,2272,1704,FFFFFF

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Well my RB C5 circuit engine and inline pipe arrived on Friday and I thought that my onroad ("Super Nitro Slayer ") would be about 75% complete.....well it was not so. One calcualtion that I did NOT make while milling out the chasis was the exact location of the pipe (I just assumed where it would run and you know what they say about making assumptions...) and found that it intereferes with the fuel tank. The problem is that I speciffically milled a "drop out" for the fuel tank and there is no other way to place it, and since the pipe is inline I have very little freedom for moving it. I guess i could use a seperate pipe/header combo, but i spent some $$$ on the inline and its look is integral to the whole project. Well I spent my day Sat. designing a new chasis setup which works (I have ALL the measurements worked out this time). The only bummer is that i could not come up with another design where I could drop the fuel tank for a lower center of gravity...Oh well looks like some more time playing with the mill machine. Everything else fit perfectly including the 3 speed tanny ,which with the C5, should make for just sick acceleration and top speed with drag runs. I would love to put this car up against some tricked out HPI Super Nitros and Ofna GTPs for some drag runs when Im finished.


BTW
Vad, how much "hand fitting" did you need to get those Proline 2.2 truck tires on those 1/8 rims? What foams did you use (the prolines or 1/8 buggy, or other)?, and how well do the hold to the rim (do the fold over and deform alot or rip off the rim easily?), also would you say that this is your favorite tire set up for tarmac on the lm (as compared to proline buggy tires on stock lm rims).

Sorry for so many questions, but it looks like a good option for replacement tires and wheels for the lm. :)

Thanks,

Kirk

[vad]

Kirk,
I the best tires I found to be for me are the only ones I tried.... LM2 15spoke rims, Proline ultra firm truck foam inserts (I will be changing to Trinity bomb 1 ultra firm truck foam inserts from now on), proline Road Rage 2.2 buggy rear tires.

The reason I havent tried the truck tires on 1/8 buggy rims is the fact that the tires seem like they would be too close to the manifold. Even with my change of center gear and clutch bell on the motor it didnt move the manifold away from the tire. Also, the tires havent been glued yet.

The smaller tires I feel would be better for the track I race at here in Daytona Beach, Florida. Its the size of a 1/10 scale track. So need all the accerlation I can use. No need for top end. That one reason I dumped the 15T bell and 44T center gear. What I have to try is my Fioroni Center lock out Diff.

Racers at the local track run the Tarmac tires on Ofna rims, Ill tell you what, the grip from the road rage tires seem to hook up much better than the other cars. I will be gluing my truck tires on 1.8 scale rims with in the next few days and will let the guys at the track try them out too see what they think.

If you race you LM onroad, I would recommend you use traction compound I applied mine several hours prior to the race.

Mounting the truck tires to the 1/8 scale rims... tough usually the first time, but once you get the hang of it, its easy. Take any set of 2.2" truck tires rear sets are the best. Use trinity or proline Ultra hard or firm foam insets. Cut the tire around the lip of the tire, the part that goes into the rims Bead. Once complete mount the foams but use a bottle of some sort to stretch out the foam so it goes over the rim easier. when you have the foam on the rim, and the tire over the rim just mount like normal tires.

[vad]

if any of you guys who mill out part can make a special wheel hub, please let me know. I am looking for or would like to ask someone to make (2) full sets of wheel hubs which fit on a Kyosho MP-7.5 stock buggy or kanai buggy which would make the stance wider. It would work perfect on the LM2 also......


Not looking for free, will pay to have them made.

[Madaz]

those 2.2 truck on road tyres look good on the stock lm rims. let us know how quick they wear. they must be pretty soft rubber to stretch over the lm wheels. I have some old tamiya oval blocks which would be supreme for ripping up the dirt off road if i could stretch them over the lm rims!!!!! :) I might try it one time im feeling strong.
btw....That rear spoiler is a neat trick. its a mp7.5 off road spoiler i take it?

Anyone interested in a second hand landmax... on Ebay UK there is a LM1 and a LM2 for auction.

madaz

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks for the info Vad. BTW, where did those racers at your track find the Tarmac tires at here in the US (I assume that these are the medial pro UNMOUNTED ones). So far RCdiscounters are the only place i have found that carry the Tarmac II and these are mounted. (My order is still "pending" with them and despite contacting them several times they have yet to respond:(

Once again, I appreciate your feedback.

Kirk

[vad]

Kirk - not tarmacs, but ofna slicks, as for tarmacs why not contact GS racing and ask them who sells the tires.


Madaz- The 2.2 truck tires dont fit on the LM rims, those are 2.2" 1/10 scale buggy rear tires. The 2.2 truck tires are on the 1/8 scale rims(green rims).

[vad]

Where can I find LM2 subara bodies for cheap. $70 at tower is too much.

Which other bodies fit the LM2's. I was looking at the Tmaxx bodies....?

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Oh,
Yeah I have heard that those OFNA slicks suck.....and this was on a OFNA gtp board!:)
Kirk

[vad]

Kirk,
Look under www.ofna.com and select tires and wheels, then select onroad 1/8.

[Madaz]

My hyper21 pullstart broke after about 1 gallon but i was kinda expecting that since the tough break in etc..... but then i get a new one 2 days ago and it breaks after starting the motor 3 times i was surprised to say the least (the spring unclipped from the centre rope pulley)

I reckon i could make myself a starterbox out of sheetmetal but am unsure how to set up the motor/s and gearing.

I cant find any pictures on the net, If anyone with a starterbox and a digi'cam .....SixVi6camaro :):) could email a picture of the inside it would be very helpful.

Anyone worn out their Medial pro tyres yet? Is anyone driving Landmax's still?? (silly question i know but its quiet in here lately)

I altered the spring setting on my CVEC to the tightest spring setting (conserve fuel setting) and suddenly my motor idles for about a minute instead of about 5-10 seconds. so that was a result :)

Cyas.
Madaz

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
Bummer about the pullstart! Just checked on the status of my medial pro tires on the rcdiscounters website and from their info. i should be getting them in a few weeks (they have new owners and are trying to rebuild their customer service).

Well im not running my lm....still in project mode (in parts on the table) but chasis "part II" is coming along alot faster than the first and after it is completed the rest of the project should come quickly...
btw...does anybody on here (John?) know how much different the medial pro rims (that come with the mounted tires) differ from other standard 1/8 scale rims...if they are basically the same i would like to boil the tires off the medial pro rims an remount them on some ofna chromes 1/8 rims to increase the bling factor. (Would be much easier if i could have just ordered the tires unmounterd!)
Thanks,
Kirk

[SixVi6-Camaro]

hmm... I'll get a pic of the insides of my 2 starter boxes tomorow. I have a Hyper 7 PBS box and a blue metal ofna box. My LM2 has been runing strong, really strong and completely worry free thats why I've not posted in a while.

I've been running the snot out of my Tarmac II's. I've got the thing dialed but it takes a lot of setup just like runing foam tires on a 1/10 touring car. mine have been wearing nice and evenly. with a front med sway bar and the standard rear sway bar in place with -1 deg camber on the front and -3 camber on the rear with no front toe and 1 deg rear toe and a low 5mm ride height. yes it seems like a lot of rear camber but thats what it took to get the rears to wear evenly.

the Tarmac II's are mounted on buggy wheels that don't have the slot where a tires bead would slide into. some buggy rims do not have that slot to capture the tire in but most do. if they have the slot you could take some stock 1/8 buggy rims and dremel off the raised portion to leave a flat outside radius to mount the tarmacs to.

John

[krell]

Hello, I have some questions regarding the O.S. 21 RG engine:

For my Landmax 1, should I get the engine with the integrated pilot shaft (P)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBZ33&P=V
or the one with a regular crankshaft?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBZ32&P=V

/Nick

[Madaz]

Nick, my hyper21 engine has the integrated pilot shaft, (SG crank) and fitted into my LM1 without too much trouble. I would recommend this type.
I had to get a new flywheel (expensive!!!)and flywheel nut, but this was only 50p from a fasteners shop.

Maybe someone could argue the regular crank is better but i would say get the integrated pilot shaft for its simplicity.
Madaz :cool:

[vad]

I think I figures out the problem with the pipe toooo close to the rear left tire, using a HPI savage manifold solved all the problems, now I can use any tire, 17mm 1/8 scale rims.

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/Photoloft/Asset21/2003/04/25/10580/10580363_0_9522.fpx,0,0,1,1,1024,768,FFFFFF

[vad]

Car ready for Action, but cant run due to rain....


http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/Album.asp?s=cano&a=1345106&u=1762220

[SixVi6-Camaro]

vad.. Nice setup. why do you run two servo savers? one on the servo and the bellcrank mounted one. also your front steering tie bar. where did you get that from?

Madaz.. my buddy snaped the pull start on his hyper 8 port hyper 7 so he now has my starter box. I'll get pics of the boxes after I get it back this weekend.

[Madaz]

sweet manifold vad, no good if u have a pullstart like mine. the pipe would go over the handle and cord. If the medial pro tarmacII are too close to my manifold i will try cutting 5mm out of it and brazing it back together.

Cool john, some pics would be great. I learnt why my pullstart died after just 1 day. When i fitted it i found the mounting screws must not be too tight or it somehow prevents the recoil slightly and this is why my spring popped off so quickly. This time i have locktight on the screws and just screwed them lightly til the cap head touches the pullstart.... see how this one lasts.

Someone suggested for my starterbox idea to use an irvine starter used for starting airplane props (only £21 new) get the rubber wheel and make a box so the wheel protrudes out at the right place. These starter motors run off 12v but im wondering how it would work powered by two 7.2v racing packs. maybe it would do the job?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

an airplane starter would work geat at either 12 volts or 14.4v from two packs. actually because the 14.4v has more voltage it would turn even stronger than the 12v. That would setup just like my blue Ofna Box then. the blue ofna box is a gigantic motor and a rubber wheel on the end. the hyper 7 box I have is a smaller higher rpm motor geared down with a belt and pullies. both activate by a simple switch that starts the motor when the box is pressed down.

[vad]

John....
the reason for the 2nd servo is for additional reasurance that the servo gets the least of the hit. I've done this since my MP-5 days. I race mostly for fun, so I dont need a snap on steering, but I have awsome steering anyhow with the k2 steering servo saver and the futaba S9450.

Madaz...
You might want to consider it, the manifold is only $15 and you can also use fuel tubing to bring the pull cord out some.

[Madaz]

hi all, anyone been rallying lately?

i have had major difficulty tuning my hyper engine this week, it kept cutting out after 10 seconds when i was accelerating/braking or anything. i was reading some old posts in this thread and around page 27 Sixvi6 you seem to have already had these same problems. Today i finally tuned it to run ok apart from the odd stall which i can live with. I will rebuild the carb when i find a load of replacement orings. I have read other peoples critisism of the hyper21 carburettor and the improvement by fitting an OS 20 carb. (sounds good but where do i get a carb cheap?)
Vad, why spend $15 on a new manifold when i can try welding my old one for free! ( i havent got the tarmac2 tires yet so i dont know this might not be necessary) but thanks for the hint.
My LM1 has so much play in the steering it is crazy and handles like a bit of a brick to be honest. (But its still great fun) It needs new steering ball joints, new ball raced steering cranks, new wheel bearings.... HELL I might as well get a new Landmax2, but wheres the fun in that :D :D Keep Bashing! (and writing about it here) Madaz.

[vad]

Madaz,
I dont have time to find some shop to weld the manifold for me. So $15 is worth it. I have no idea how to weld, just tweak and race......

[ZzS]

Hey again for a long time!

I have a problem with my Rossi Eco R21 engine. When starting on the starter box, the engine hardly starts. And when I take the glow system away, it will stall. I think I have a too cold glow plug or something. I use Sidewinder 16% fuel and Roga glow plugs number 5. It is 'cold' according to the instructions. Adjusting the low-speed needle is quite annoying 'cause I don't now the factory setting. I just screw it to the both directions and nowhere it idles well. What should I do?

I converted Landmax into buggy and it is blast to run! It can really challenge my friends with MegaForce or even Tamiya Terra Crusher. BTW, that Terra crusher has something wrong with the engine adjustments because it doesn't accelerate well at all. Any suggestions? It has only one needle screw so it seem to be impossible to adjust the engine well.

[Madaz]

I think you need a hot plug in a .21 engine, best check the engines instructions and try whatever plug type they recommend. With the wrong plug it is pointless attempting to tune it.

dunno about the terra crusher but im sure someone on terra crusher forum could help.

[vad]

The sway bars on the the landmax2 are from the mp-7.5 kanai 2 car.

[Landmax2B]

Well I am home from school for the summer now, unfortantely funding has gone into a 1/1 scale racecar instead of a 1/8th scale rally car ;)

But I am pretty sure I'll be having more fun with the 1/1 racecar. Instead of taking months to build up a racecar and spend $60K+ to build it, we're just going to buy it turnkey and save the time and lots of money. Should be a blast!

After seeing all these landmax pictures, it really makes me want to start up the hobby next summer though... hopefully I can even start it next winter break!

[Redfox]

Originally posted by krell
Hello, I have some questions regarding the O.S. 21 RG engine:

For my Landmax 1, should I get the engine with the integrated pilot shaft (P)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBZ33&P=V
or the one with a regular crankshaft?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBZ32&P=V

/Nick

It depends what kinda gears you wanna run in the car... If you get the intergrated pilot shaft, it's good, but it restricts you to only running a single speed gearing system. However, if you get it without the pilot shaft, you can throw in a 2 speed transmission provided the 2 speed pilot shaft that comes with the kit fits on your engine.

[Madaz]

Vad, u want a cheaper body for the LM.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVU86&P=M

This isnt a tmaxx shell but this body is definately cheaper and from comparing the dimensions of the nitro demon and landmax i think this would fit just fine. i might get one and go for a "lowered stadium truck" style.

I wouldnt bother with a 2Speed gear set unless someone gave me one for free and i was running on-road only. I have heard so much trouble people have had with them they dont seem worth it IMO.

[Jimmy33]

hi taking a break from work - I don't use the 2 speed at when I am running norally but I might with the 4 stroke when it comes. As a replacement I use the standard fixed centre drive from a thunder tiger EB4 S2 buggy which gives me better running of road!

[vad]

[vad]

Madaz,
Thanks for the info on an alternate landmax body, but im not that desperate. I would rather poke my eye out with pick before I fork over $20 for the truck body.

[Madaz]

That duratrax body is pretty ugly compared to a kyosho shell. It is roughly the same width. It would be better off road because it has less overhang front and rear.

I think you would want a 2spd with the 4stroke since they rev about half as high as a 2stroke. Is the thunder tiger solid centre diff a straight fit into the LM1? Have u fitted the whole diff casing with the spur or just replaced the internal gears? I would like one :-)

[Jimmy33]

yes it is the standard centre solid gear from the RTR EB4 S2 I will try and get a picture and a part number - but yes it is a straight fit!

[vad]

Madaz,
I got a Fioroni center lock out in the center of my 2wd mp-7.5 the fit isnt perfect, requires shims to keep the center spool centered, and requires an mp-6 center gear. I have not run the 2wd car, so I am looking forward to testing it out.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Anyone check out the Tamyia 1/8 TGX bodies?....I know that they make a 2001 Subaru WRX. On towers website they list the car (and give body dimensions...i was to lazy to compare them with the lm bodies but with a quick look they seemed compatible)...Only problem is that tower offers the car but not the body.....They do offer other non-rally bodies and seemed to be priced at around $45 US. Someone might want to check this out further.

[belgravekm]

this looks like an intresting alternative to the over price kyosho
bodies here is the link to the web page,it also includes the dimensions of the bodies
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/nitro/18scale/tgxmk1/44031.html

[french-fry]

hmm...doesn't look like those will work...They are true 1/8 scale i believe while our landmax's are a super eight, so the dimensions are about 5 cm off or so.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

the tamiya body looks too small..

the tamiya specs..

Overall Length: 515mm
Overall Width: 227mm
Wheelbase: 300mm

Lm's..
length: roughly 560mm (changes depending on body)
width: 245mm
wheelbase: 325mm

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Jimmy 33,
I was wondering if that Toyota Celica body you have on your Landmax 1 has enough front "overhang" to clear the optional bumper/foam without modifications? (not sure if you have the bumper on your car).

I really wish Kyosho would offer some more lm bodies (or better yet, some one else would make bodies that would fit the lm).


One more thing...if any one wants to see the ultimate offroad lm Thorbob has updated his thread on www.nitroreview.com (under the landmax discussion forum). I know that most of you on this board check out the nitreview board on a regular basis, but if you haven't lately you should check it out...his final product is just pure beauty.

Thanks,
Kirk

[ZzS]

One guy that has Landmax ordered O.S. Max 99vb (or something like that) engine. He asked me what parts does he need to fit it into his Landmax. Well, I said that only the engine mount BS025 and some screws. Is it so?

Can he use Hobao Hyper 7 tuned pipe with that engine? Or the Landmax's own pipe? That Hobao pipe costs only about 15€ so I'm wondering if it is not a good investment because he has that kyosho pipe even now.

Oh, I gotta go and take a look at ThorBobs LM! That will be a real sweetie, I think!

[vad]

ZZs,

with the V99B, tell your friend to use the kyosho pipe especially if its the femac 512 pipe. As my friend refer to it as the ugly pipe.



http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc4658.jpg

[vad]

[Jimmy33]

I don't know as I havenever tried the corrola body withe the foam bumper - or any body to be exact as I have neer bought one.... :D

[vad]

Possible source for rally bodies.

Nuova Faor makes rally cars and parts for mp-7.5 rally conversion. They have 4 or 5 bodies for the cars, just dont know any Nuova faor distributor in the US.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Anyone know of someone who wants to get rid of a rolling lm2 chasis? Tried e bay but only lm1s. Basically just looking for bulkheads and diffs(in good shape!) ,arms, radiobox and other odds and ends. While working on my lm1 onroad project I began to miss the idea of an offroad rally car...especially after seeing Thorbobs finished creation:D . And since I have the mill machine going, and enough 7075 aluminum and carbon fiber sheet to do 5 projects I decided it would be cool to get a lm2 project going also(while running my GS Storm to get my occasional nitro fix).
The shock towers,chasis, radio tray, a arms, tires etc dont have to be in good shape since i plan on replacing most of this (using the original parts as patterns) but i do need good diffs.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (i would hate to get a new one since ill be replacing many of the parts... but i could piece this out fairly cheaply if anyone is interested).

Thanks,
Kirk

[vad]

Kirk,
You just missed a LM2 on ebay.... If i see anything Ill will post here or email you.

[DoDo Brown]

Is this all possiable. Does anybody have a parts listing? What would it take to convert?

Chris

[DoDo Brown]

I will sell you mine if you like? It comes with everything.

Chris

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Chris,
email me through this site describing what you got and what you are willing to take for it .

Thanks Kirk

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Im sure this has been mentioned on this thread several times, but....can anyone tell me if the large ring gear (the gear on the outside of the diff case) and mating pinion gears are cast metal or the much more durable hardened gears used on the mp 7.5. I tried looking at the tower site lm2 "parts" list and they show the hardened gears (and not as "optional") but im not sure this is correct.

Thanks,
Kirk

[SixVi6-Camaro]

the stock LM2 gears are the silver cast gears.. I don't think kyosho even sells the cast ones seperately. Even in the instructions it lists the hardened gear part #'s as the only replacement for the cast gears.

[vad]

kirk,
It would ne better to upgrade it is costly, but thats the smae gear the 1/8 scale offroad racers use in the K2 and stock mp-7.5 buggides. They have been proven to be very reliable under extreame harsh driving conditions.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Vad and John,
Thanks. Now I know that i would have to replace the large ring gear, but what abut the 13 tooth mating pinion gear? From what i see on the lm2 parts list and exploded drawings is that it comes with this hardened gear already. I know that these gears are $$$. I replaced the ones on my lm1 project so that the gear boxes would not end up as containers of silver dust after the first 5 min. of running the car with the RB C5 C:D


Kirk

[DoDo Brown]

Kirk,
My LandMax 2 is on ebay. If your still intrested please email at cd-jones@attbi.com. I will make you a killer deal? I want to get rid of everything!:D. If not it is going to be converted into a buggy.

Chris

[vad]

Kirk,
You will need the pinion gears 13T, the stock cheap aluminum one will not mate with the upgraded steel bevel gear 43T.

[vad]

That has to be one good deal, DoDo, considering a new car runs about $400.

[ZzS]

Can I use the CVEC heli pipe in my landmax if I just remove the silver parts from the middle of the pipe?

[Madaz]

yeah the centre piece can be left out to make it like the car pipe. Try find a buggy one or you will be paying 25% extra for the useless centre piece :rolleyes:

[ZzS]

OK, thanks Madaz!

You live in the UK? Do you know a good online rc-store there? Did you buy your CVEC from the UK? I'll probably order some stuff with my friend from EUs area because we live in Finland. Ordering from the EU would be cheapier than from the US.

[vad]

zzs,
Try checking out www.three5models.co.uk. if you email a guy there ask for Mike Cradock. He races for Team Kyosho in the UK. He might be more helpful than you can imagine.

[ZzS]

Okay, I gotta check that out!

[eduvalla]

Hi, every one, my name is ed, and I am new in this great sport, I am about to buy a new car, but I dont Know wich one. I was wondering if u guys could help choose between a Impreza Tr-15 or a Hpi Super Nitro Rally! I would really, really apreciate a coment about this issue!
Thanks every one!
Ed!

[vad]

Ed,
It might be more help full to you if you check out the

- Vehicle forums
- kyosho
- kyosho TR-15

And for the HPI Super nitro Look into

- Vehicle forums
- hpi
- HPI Super nitro Rally

you might find more info that way than through the Landmax forum.

[Jimmy33]

do I needa special flywheel for my OS engine?

[Madaz]

Jimmy33, the original kyosho flywheel will not fit on an OS engine so if thats what you have u will need a new flywheel. most come with a tapered centre hole and a brass collet. The GS21 kyosho one does not.

ED, sorry i cant help you decide since i have never owned/driven either of those cars. Try the forums vad suggests ;)

Zzs here are some sites of UK shops i have visited but i do not know how good their mail orders are as i have never bought online.
http://www.hobbystores.co.uk/
http://www.alshobbies.com/
http://www.modelworlduk.com/default.htm

[vad]

Jim,
Looks as if you have an LM2, so you can consider a few thing. Look on ebay and find a kanai 3 shoe clutch set up there are guys selling them at very reasonalble prices. A couple of guys I deal with are Ben88 and Brisky473. The stock GS21R flywheel will not work on the OS eng. If you want a flywheel and clutch set up thats very controllable go with the 2shoe kyosho clutch system will run you about $45+.

[Jimmy33]

do you have a part number for the 2 shoe clutch?

I also need a manifold for the engine as it is a pull start engine

is this the flywheel

KYOC3572 IF109 2 SHOE FLYWHEEL MP7.5

[vad]

Jimmy,
this is what you will need to mount the OS RZ-V01 in you LM2

IF109 2 shoe flywheel
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc3572.jpg

KC045 2 shoe clutch
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc2990.jpg

IFW047 14T SP clutch bell
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc2935.jpg

IF108 Eng mounts
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc3468.jpg

IF107 eng mount plates
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc3467.jpg

Suggested items to get

BS053 Shim Set
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc5573.jpg

IFW037 Femac 512 Tune pipe
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc4658.jpg

IFW135 Brake cover
http://www2.gpmd.com/imaget/k/tkyoc2627.jpg

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Can anyone give me the part numbers for the front and rear anti roll bars for the LM2. I imagine you would use the ones for the inferno 7.5 but what sets would be the best for combo on/offroad (kyosho offers several thicknesses-for both front and rear use). I know John listed the set up he uses when running his car on the tarmac but I forget where on this thread he listed this info. Thanks.
Kirk

Oh yeah,
I was able to pick up a lm 2 with a lot of goodies for a pretty good price..so now i ll be able to do some rally bashing as i slowly plug along with my lm1 project.

[vad]

Kirk,
Look on ebay, and try and pick up the kyosho mp-7.5 K2 front and rear sway bar sets. If you us the sway bars, just go with the thickest front and rear.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

lets see..

front.. IFW104 and rear.. IF117

I'm running the thickest front sway bar and the rear has only one thickness.


jimmy..

I run in big ol' lots with an 18 tooth clutchbell. I'd run at least a 16 tooth with that OS engine. 14 tooth would only be good for a tiny track.
For a clutch I'd toss the kyosho one to the curb and grab MIP pt# 1523 Performance Clutch MP-7.5. its a 2 shoe clutch and grabs much better and at a bit higher rpm than the kyosho clutch and is also cheaper.

[Jimmy33]

no its not the OS RZ-V01 in the LM2 I have one of those in my LM1 in the LM2 it is the RG pull start, so what clutch bell will I need for that, I ahve a 13 toooth, is that too small?

[vad]

Jimmy,
No matter what eng you run, keep and 13T, 14T on hand and you should already have the 15T with you LM2. If you havent had the center gear changed you will have a 44T center gear. I run a 46T and 13T bell on a intermediate sized 1/10 scale track, and my car is always in racing condition. The clutch bell choice will be up to you.

[go1d1e]

Anyone need some old spares for the inferno/landmax?

I have a bunch of spares and a rolling chasis of an inferno DX, alot of the spares should be interchangeable..

http://firestorm.tilehill.ac.uk/~gold/pics/inferno/inferno8.JPG

sorry for the big pic :)

Let me know..

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Im getting ready to move in a few weeks and rounded up all my landmax stuff. (Just recently aquired a lm2 with all kinds of goodies to go with my lm1 project...still working on it and will be done here, hopefully soon..will post pics when finally done to show that it does exist:) ). Well I found that i have a bunch of lm parts (both 1 and 2) that i will probably never need because i either replaced them with hopups or made custom parts to replace them, so Im willing to get rid of them for pretty cheap prices. I have spur gears, 2 speed, bevel gears, chasis, bell cranks, tons of gs 21 parts (carbs, newer black heatsink heads), a arms, "special" adjust tunbuckles, upper plates (radio, center diff, steering) arms, hub carriers (f/r) etc. Some of the stuff is NIB and other stuff is slightly used. If anyone needs anything shoot me an email (address found on this site) before ordering it somewhere else, I might have it and will let you know if I have it and take an offer (buyer pays for shipping). Some of the lm 2 stuff wont be available for a little bit because i need the orginal parts as templates for my custom parts but let me know what you need and I ll try to make the parts available as soon as I can.


Thanks,
Kirk

[vad]

[Madaz]

i would be interested in a few parts but you both are in the usa? i like to look at things i buy first and i dont want hassle of postage and duty to the uk etc.
madaz.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

No problem Madaz,
I am in the USA and over seas postage can be a pain. Im not trying to "push" the stuff but I would rather see it go to a fellow landmaxer than sitting unused in a box. I just put the offer out so someone can check with me (anytime in the future) before buying a part elsewhere and save some cash (Kyosho can be sooo $$$ sometimes).

Thanks,
Kirk

[Jimmy33]

hi madaz where are you in the UK?

[Madaz]

The starterbox i decided to make about 2 months ago is finished at last. Thnx to Sixvi6 sending me some photos of his starterbox for reference. all it cost me was the airplane starter and rubberwheel. The microswitch was given to me by someone who had a few laying around in his shed. It helps that i work in a sheetmetal workshop so making the box was easy for me.

it had extensive testing before it was powdercoated (also done t work) and i have to say it worked like a dream. I simply locate the chassis inside the boxes corner guides and push down the chassis.

only fault is with my flywheel, it has only a very thin knurled contact area around the circumference and this is causing the rubber wheel to wear easily. i will look into getting a ofna flywheel that isnt so thin.

also im gonna put a handle on it for carrying.

[Madaz]

...

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
First-class job...looks very "factory".....actualy it looks better (less cheap) than the ones you can buy:)

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Wow.. that looks great. very heavy duty looking and looks like a factory piece rather than a hand built box. I'm sure with that heavy duty plane starter you will have no problems bumping any engine you toss on that box. I'm glad the pics helped.

ok so this isn't LM related but check out my project. Its called The Monster......... (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/21rs4_02.jpg) This RS4 used to be 4wd and had the GS21 on it. not any more! its hyper .21 powered now and rear drive only. future plans include a light weight front pan car suspension, a solid rear drag car setup, and eventually a 2 speed. Its one brutal ride! yup.. The Monster lives.

[Jimmy33]

HELP - got a problem - my OS engine (RG Max) doesn fit in my landmax - the crank is too long, I will attach for pics



http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/117061/Photos2032.jpg

[Jimmy33]

sorry the pics don't really show but I decided to attach them any way....

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/117061/Photos2033.jpg

[french-fry]

That's the pilot shaft version right? Yeah, you can't use the pilot shaft and the LM two-speed. Even if you didn't have the two speed, you usually have to cut off a little bit of the shaft with a dremel or something. That applies to the standard shaft too. Umm...i would suggest ordering yourself one of these:OS RG-X non-pilot shaft (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMW30&P=K) \. I'm pretty sure that's what you need. I'm looking to do the same thing to my LM, and I've got the two speed, but stupid OS doesn't make engines with both a pull start and a standard shaft. So either you get the right shaft, and add a pullstart, or you get the pullstart, but change shafts.

-Alex

P.S. Madaz, that box looks sharp!

[vad]

Link to Jimmys web page


http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=177280&foldername=Photos

[Madaz]

I am glad to say goodbye to pullstart blisters forever!! It starts perfectly if my damn thin flywheel hadnt worn slots out the rubber wheel so i have to push hard the middle of the chassis for it to contact the flywheel.
Im using my 12v car battery to power the box and it turns the hyper21 over very fast.

that 21 powered RS4 tourer looks like a true tyre smokin monster! i think that it could melt the original tyres:)

email me the picture jimmy33 if u cant attach it. It sounds less work (and cost) to cut the shaft but this doesnt help if u want to run the 2SPD..:confused:

[vad]

http://www.villagephotos.com/viewpubimage.asp?id_=2968468&selected=177280

http://www.villagephotos.com/viewpubimage.asp?id_=2968467&selected=177280

[Madaz]

those links work vad nice1. it is hard to see without the flywheel how far the motor needs to go back for proper gear mesh. or does the PS not allow the 2spd and flywheel to fit at all?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I don't see any problem. ya know they do make shims to take up any slack at the end of the crank. mount the flywheel clutch and all and then see how the clutchbell lines up. pick up ofna part # 10099 . it has included all the spacers and screws needed to mounst just about any setup. if the pulstart is too big you can also just use spacers to raise the motor up until the pul start clears.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Yeah,
Jon is right about that OFNA shim set. I used some of the spacers when setting up the three speed deal on my LM project. The set comes with a ton of washers and at least two pilot shaft extension tubes. I know that the guys in RC Action mention the use of the ONFA kit when trying to shoehorn .21 engines onto 1/10 scale project cars. It takes some experimenting, but with some patience you can make just about any clutch bell set up work.

[Jimmy33]

Thanks 0- I think I have the shortened shaft for some reason - I just neeed to find it! :rolleyes:

I will try and get the car running again by next Saturday

[Jimmy33]

I thought that there where only 2 shafts availible for the RG - the standard and the Serpent. I got the standard (or so I thought :p ) is there a shorter standard shaft as well? (As you may have guessed I haven't found the saft yet!)

[Jimmy33]

OK found the crank I have and out of the engine it does look shorter but as the engine is not here I cannot say.....

However I did get the standard, not the serpent.

Cutting it down isn't really an option for my (no tools for it) However, it is only a couple of mm so I will have to see once I get the flywheel for it.... :D

Thanks

[vad]

Jimmy....


Sell the RG the 2 speed and get a serpent nova evo4 or evo 5, you will no problem fitting the eng.....:D

[Jimmy33]

I would but IO like ordering through my LHS and the cannot get those engines - and absolute pain.....


But I think the OS is not worth the porblems so I will most likely end up in a different car....

[vad]

Jimmy,
I would never knock the local hobby shop, with out them I would not have a place to race, but when you want or need something and a shop cant get it for you might be time to look elsewhere.

[vad]

Jimmy,
RB C5....

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Originally posted by vad
Jimmy,
RB C5.
... :D :D :D

[Jimmy33]

it looks like I will be going to the other HS which isn't local (trouble is I might come back with mroe things than just an engine!) :D

[belgravekm]

hi guys,
i'm on the hunt for a new big block engine ha,tell me what you think of this engine,will it work in my lm1 with a two speed transmition?nice starter box
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESC2&P=0

[Jimmy33]

not with the too speed but it should work - however I not an engine - guru as my problems with the OS show!

[Jimmy33]

could I have put the engine mounts on wrong? :rolleyes:

[Jimmy33]

do the special engine mounts mount the engine any further back - as I noticed that they were the ones which came with the 4 stroke fitting kit

[vad]

Jimmy,
I dont there is a way to mount the eng mounts of the 7.5 backwards, it is designed to go either way. Just to 100% sure, remove the mounts and compare then on the same side holes should mount up in the same position. Becareful in the HS......


As for the of .26, have no clue....:confused:

[french-fry]

THE LANDMAXXX LIVES:

http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/small0756.jpg

who knew that landmax tires fit in Tmaxx tires?

http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/small0757.jpg

http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/small0758.jpg

so i was bored...

[Madaz]

hehehehehe monster landmax. nice1 fry.

belgrave since the .26 has the same block as a .21 i think that it should fit in the LM without to much problems. I always read the ofna homepage forums and havent heard any bad things about the motor itself. Only thing since i have a hyper engine myself i dont like the carb and the pullstarts are quite weak imo.

[belgravekm]

my gs21r is slowly going south so i,m looking at a new engine for my landmax 1,i would like to use back my 2 speed (verrry expensive to chuck)and i would like an engine that has a pullstart
not too expensive,and not too difficult to mount in lm1,so any suggestions?os,hyper,picco what?
thankx:)

[SixVi6-Camaro]

belgravekm.,. yeah that picco .26 is a heck of a motor and should drop right in. I've seen two of them in savages and all I can say is wow! to get a 13 lb savage moving faster than my 9.5lb .21 maxx is impressive. The 2 speed should work on that engine if you grab the ofna shim set part # 10099. I've used that set for mounting engines of all kinds on my projects.

ohh yeah the picco .26 and many other ofna engines are a lot cheaer at ace hardware hobies. just shoot them an e-mail to be sure they have the engine in stock. I believe they were selling the picco .26 for $170 there.

[Jimmy33]

who imports the pico engines to the UK?

[vad]

UK
CML DISTRIBUTION
UNIT 4, PHASE 4, BUNTSFORD HILL INDUSTRIAL ESTATE,
BROMSGROVE, WORCESTERSHIRE, B60 3DX
Telephone +44/(0)1527575349
Fax +44/(0)1527570536
E-mail: cml@cmldistribution.co.uk
Notes: Picco & Omega


UK
308
308 HOLLOWAY ROAD
ISLINGTON, LONDON N7 6NP
Telephone +44/2076097700
Fax +44/2076074272
E-mail: info@308hobbies.com
Notes: Picco

[belgravekm]

is this engine any good,i've never heard about team orion and engines before but there are cheap.will this engine work for me?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEKX1&P=0

[vad]

Belgrave....

If you are going to buy from tower, why not look at the OS RG pull start yes its a .12 for $107 for the motor you can beat that for a bashing motor. and if you need more speed you can try your hand at modding an eng.

[belgravekm]

do any of you guys know anything about this product.i have an old sullivan deluxe hi torque starter and i just came across this product,this could save me from having to get an engine with a pull start.also can the lm1 two speed work with the 8-S TOP ENGINE by nova rossihttp://www.sullivanproducts.com/StarterAccessoriesMainFrame.htm
thankx

[belgravekm]

what engine mounts should be used to mount this engine in the lm1

[Jimmy33]

I would assum just the standard LM1 mounts

Does anyone knowwhere I can find pictures of all of th eLandmax shells on line?

[vad]

www.towerhobbies.com


There is a landmax subaru wrx body on sale on ebay.

[Unobjectionable]

did somebody ask for body pics?

heres (http://***********/gp20/discontinued/) the LM1 page that disappeared from kyosho.com a few months back (glad i saved it, lets just ignore that disclaimer at the bottom)

heres (http://***********/gp20/misc/206.jpg) a pic of the peugeot 206, here (http://***********/gp20/misc/optional-not-included-parts.jpg) is a pic of the original mercedes and alfa DTM bodies that you can't get anymore, and heres (http://***********/gp20/misc/lm2-evo7.jpg) the mitsu evo 7 mentioned by alex earlier in this thread that they dont seem to sell here yet

not shown: the 2001 subaru body that most of you have already, and the old r32 skyline that i still don't have a good picture of


keith - you should use the KYOC3458/BS-25 LM1 engine mounts, same as you would for any .21 engine besides the gs-21...i remember we discussed that top engine a while ago on nitroreview, but i forget if it was sg shaft or not...if so you will have to do a little custom fitting to make it work with the 2 speed...the easiest and cheapest choice would be a threaded crank engine

jimmy - if you still need to trim the crank on your RG you can use a dremel cutoff wheel in a regular electric drill (aka the "poor man's dremel" trick), takes a little bit longer and you have to be extra careful not to remove any fingers by accident, but it works fine

some funny pics in the thread lately, the .21 rs4 and landmaxx pics made me chuckle

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Unobjectable
Have not seen you on the board for quite some time. Are you still running your LMs? How are your projects coming?

Kirk

[Unobjectionable]

been lurking around keeping an eye on you troublemakers, but i haven't played with any of my toys in months (or made any progress on my projects)...of course that doesn't stop me from picking up hobbygoodies™ when i have the chance...i am hoping a certain box from hong kong will arrive this week, with a special rare LM treasure tucked safely inside...will post pics when it arrives

so how are your projects coming? congrats on the LM2, i need to get me one of them also...eheh...looking forward to seeing these monsters, and hearing your initial impressions of driving such a wild machine (video would be nice too of course!)

[treky11]

Anyone have a copy of the manual electronically or know where to get one?

I have a new landmax 2 in the box and no manual and Kyosho wants 18.99 to send me a new copy.

Thanks in advance!!

[go1d1e]

http://www.kyosho.com/manuals/kyoc0562-manual.pdf


that is the KII manual, i`m sure there arn`t too many differences, and its free :) its about 10MB though..

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Treky 11,
Try Johns (Six Vi6 camaro) Landmax 2 website...it's found on this thread(somewhere???) but I cant remember the link address. Im sure if you check back on this thread in a little bit he will have posted it for you. He has the entire lm 2 directions and a bunch of step by step pictures of his lm2 being built along with a bunch of tips.

BTW this thread is a great place to get any landmax 2 info. The guys on here can answer about any question concerning this vehicle and love to help.



Unobjectable
Im kinda of in the same boat as you...Ill be moving here in the next week (I hope) and my toys are packed away for some time. My LM 1 project is about 50% complete. The chasis is milled (4.8mm 7075 T6 Aluminum) with all unneeded material milled away to drop weight. It still needs final finishing (fine sanding,polishing etc.). I still need to mill the four lower arms, chasis braces and special radio posts from aluminum. The radio tray (and) special battery tray need milled from carbon fiber...all of the plans have been drawn and calculated so I just need to put in the actual "work". Alot of planning has went into this to get everything to fit perfect (two chasis down the drain because of mis -calculations ...but good pracitce). Still will be using the three speed with aluminum diff mount. Also have the very pretty RB C5 circuit with polished NOVA head sitting in the box(RB086 in line pipe and K&S Air filter also). Hardend gears throughout, Lunsford titanium hinge pins/turnbuckles/ titanium screws (drop weight), special homemade sealed receiver box, a bunch of aluminum parts from GPM (hub carriers etc.), and the Nissan Alita body. Still dont have the Medial PRo tarmac tires yet wiil get them some time. I will post pictures of this car when done to show that it does exist! It will be one bad ass landmax.

As far as the lm 2, Im already planning to do a revamp this for the ultimate rally basher. this time though im going to try to make as many of the parts myself (shock towers, hub carriers, etc) rather than buying aftermarket. Future engine....CMB raptor perhaps? But this is definitly "down the road next year stuff"...not enough $$$$ or time at this point. I was able to by this lm2 in almost mint condition from a real nice guy in CA. It was only ran on road (no dirt at all on the car) and only cost me $450...for at least $1200 worth of stuff...nice FM futaba radio, upgraded $90 receiver, (2) $100 servos, tons of replacement screws, orings etc, paint, body reamers, chargers, reciever/tranmitter batery packs, 3 sets of slick tires, rims, upgraded ball bearing steering set, new tuned pipe, tools, tool chest, air fillters, oils, grease, bunch of other lm hop ups and replacement parts, etc. etc.
i could not pass this one up.
To keep my nito fix I continue to absolutly ABUSE my GS storm...this is a great buggy,.... now If I could only find anywhere in the area (NW Pennsylvania) that raced 1/8buggies ....

[vad]

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html

[treky11]

Found the manual on kyosho's japan site (thanks fastharry)

http://www.kyosho.co.jp

anyone else needing one, check it out. they have all of their current manuals there in pdf format.

enjoy

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Yeah I found the PDF's on the Japan site a few weeks ago and pulled down the manual off my space. I only now have the exploded views on my site.

[Madaz]

As of sunday night my landmax is also packed and delivered to a shipping firm with a load of household items to begin a long journey to the other side of the world. It is going to New zealand and i will be following in september.

I stripped the engine, susp, wheels and wrapped it in bubble wrap along with the bodyshell. (im hoping the body will still resemble a car when its unpacked.) My main worry came after packing the whole carton and i read that any items that have come in contact with soil etc be thouroghly cleaned.......OOPS i packed the LM still covered in all the normal dirt and mud. I hope that NZ customs dont seize it as a bioligical risk!!!!! (then again they might give it a steam clean for me)

Anyway i have 3 months with no LM now, but next time i drive it will be in NZ.... cant wait!!!

[belgravekm]

i need to get the dimensions of the mounting plate,length,width
distances between the hole centers etc.i have some ofna engine mounts and i was thinking of making my own mounting plates with a little modifying of cource ,or do you think i should drill new holes to accomodate the ofna mounts i think there is room enough .http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU179&P=0
every penny saved counts to more mods heheh
thankx.

[Madaz]

my parts are all packed away so i cant give dimensions but i can tell you they are easy to make because i had to make 2 to fit my hyper engine. i used 3mm ali and a 4 mm tap and the thread is strong considering its only aluminium.:D

[HKmaxx]

Hi I'm new here, great forum.

Anybody got any set up sheets or settings for the Landmax 2?
What camber/toe settings give even tread wear?

[Madaz]

welcome HKmaxx, setup sheets?? whats that? we just bash:p

good question, but every used landmax ive seen has worn tyres on the inside. my rear camber is set to 0 degrees and fronts maybe 2 degrees negative.
One bad thing about my handling is understeer when on the throttle. dunno how to fix this.:confused:

[HKmaxx]

Hi Madaz,

LOL, thought as much.
Thats exactly where my tyres are wearing and running 0-1 degree positive. I also just bash.

http://www.******.net/media/IMG_0805a.jpg

[Jimmy33]

nice - just finnished running the LM2 out side. That Evo body looks good - you just made my choice harder! :D

[SixVi6-Camaro]

sheesh.. why soo much negative front camber?

I'm running 0 camber in the front of mine and -2 in the rear. My tires wear evenly. for the understeer problem try standing the front shocks closer to upright.

I got some cool new stuff for mine. I had a used Kanai chassis thatI was running but I crashed hard and really bent the snot out of it at the kickup. sooo I replaced it with a JT racing chassis.

ps... You can see how evenly my tarmac II's wore with my suspension setup in these pics too.

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_53.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/lmaxx_54.jpg

but while I was swaping chassis I found the stock front diff gears on their last leg with metal pieces all over the place. It took over 1.5 years with various engines from stock to RB Ws7's to finally kill them. I'm moving up to the steel gears and 4 spider gears so I'll ahve no more problems on that front. The next project will be a new body. mine is getting really thrashed.

[french-fry]

Hey HKmaxx, where did you find an Evo body? I've been lookin all over for one of those, but have had no luck. :(

[Jimmy33]

what are the bets bodies for off raod - i take it the onces with the shortest over hangs front and back

[Madaz]

i just use negative front camber because i know 1/1 cars have it :)

my escort shell is pretty good but its the only one ive used so what do i know?? I'd give it 8/10 for offroad use. If you cut along the front spoiler a bit higher it doesnt scrape and get damaged as bad.

I like the look of that Evo VIII?:confused: ( i lost count at evo5)
and nice chassis John, ill try the shocks more upright. it may involve making a new shock tower.

Does the rear stabiliser make a noticable improvement to the handling? has anyone tested it with good results??

[french-fry]

i think the corolla and the peugeot were mentioned as two of the boddies with the least overhang, and thus best for off road.

[vad]

I know of the Perfect body that fits right on the car and is 1/3 times cheaper than the LM2 Bodies...



MP-7.5 body $25

Just need mounts from the 7.5 car and thats it.

[ZzS]

SixVi6-Camaro, I see you're running with Tarmac II's and quite a powerful engine with single speed in your LM2. I have a OS MAX RZv01b engine and I'm putting Tarmac II's to my LM or EB-4 (just about the same thing). What is the gear ratio you're using in your setup?

I'm considering to change my 14T clutch bell (ratio 10.89) to the 17T or 18T bell (ratio 8-8.5). The only thing is, I want to have a rather good acceleration but also a good top speed (so I could race my single-speed TTR EB-4 - Tarmac II - OSRZ(40000rpm/2.45hp) -combination against LM1 - 2-speed -Rossi Eco .21 sport engine (30000rpm/1.6hp) -combo).

[vad]

ZZS,
Can you tell us what size of the track you are planning on racing on. I run my LM2 on a small 1/10 scale track 100ft x 60ft. I run a 13T and 46T (from the stock mp-7.5) It works out better, i have the punch I need, however with the 4 prt picco eng I have I lack true top end, but i have to say this motor runs.

[vad]

Magnum RC Video page, click or down load Video #7. You can see the size of the track I race on. (http://www.magnumrcracing.com/videopage.htm)

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I run in huge parking lots much of the time that easily have 250ft of space against 1/10 TC's running 2 speeds. I can keep up with the 2 speed 1/10 Tc's running mild motors. the high hp engine TC's pull away from me on though. On the 1/10 track I ocasionally race on with about a 150 ft straight I change to a 15 tooth and like vad on the smallest of tracks I'm there runing a 13 tooth. I say grab a 16 tooth and 18 tooth and give them both a try.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Madaz.. you can also try some lighter shock oil in the rear its just changing the angle of the shocks is less messy.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Originally posted by SixVi6-Camaro
Madaz.. you can also try some lighter shock oil in the rear its just changing the angle of the shocks is less messy.

Doh!!! I meant to say lighter shock oil in the front or a little heavier shock oil in the rear.

[ZzS]

Well, I run my car in parking lots with about 250ft straights.
I'll probably go for the 16T bell so the acceleration wouldn't drop too badly.

I tried EB-4 with the LM's 2-speed 14/17T clutch bell (17T was in use). After running, I noticed that the steel main gear had make some scrathes to the bell (and even before running the theet had loosed from the bell itself but it worked fine). Now, when I placed the original clutch bell into the car and started it, it will make a strange noise while accelerating and running at medium speed (faster I didn't run yet). So I checked the gear mesh for 3 times and changed it but always the same thing. Strange!?

I can't see anything abnormal in the steel main gear's theet and neither in the 14T clutch bell but I can't still make it to run smoothly. I think I have to order a new main gear and other stuff if the noise doesn't go away by some adjustments.

BTW, the prices of the TTR (or Crono, I don't know exactly) bells are not really bad. Only 13 Euros = 15$ comparing with the Kyosho ones at price as high as 29 Euros = 34$ here in Finland. What a difference in prices although the quality should be about the same, maybe.

[Jimmy33]

hey I found some great shocks they are from Thunder Tiger - aluminium bodied and good quality and the best thing about it - I only paid £14 for them insted of £44 for the kyosho ones

The only porb however is that the springs are a bit soft so I might have to get some kyosho springs as the car doesn't currently return to its full hieght after a jump! :rolleyes:

[Jimmy33]

hey I found some great shocks they are from Thunder Tiger - aluminium bodied and good quality and the best thing about it - I only paid £14 for them insted of £44 for the kyosho ones

The only porb however is that the springs are a bit soft so I might have to get some kyosho springs as the car doesn't currently return to its full hieght after a jump! :rolleyes:

and finnaly I have put down an order for the Evo VII shell as that was the one they had in stock at the time - all I have to decide is what scheem to paint it in! :D

[HKmaxx]

Hi french-fry, the body came with my LM2, bought in Hong Kong.

[vad]

LM2 on ebay....

[belgravekm]

how easy or difficult it is to mount the battery & receiver box from the lm2 into the lm1.has anyone tried this,i'm tired of cringing every time my car goes near or in water.:eek:

[uDi_MP75]

Hi guys, sorry to invade this place, but I've got two questions.

Question 1...
First, i'm sure you've probably gone over this a million times, but what parts are needed to convert a 7.5 to an LM2? I'm not looking for part numbers or anything, just a rough guide to what i'd have to switch for LM2 parts. Not going to be a project anytime soon, just so I know if I ever want to go down the landmax road later on one day.

So far I was seeing/thinking:
F/R arms, shocks, shocktowers, and possibly hub carriers. Is that it for the most part, or will I need bulkheads/diff-cases as well?
Obviously body posts, body, wheels, tyres and bumpers are on the list as well.

Question number 2 is relating to something I saw a long while back. I forget if it was on this forum/thread or on maxxtraxx somewhere... but someone had modded a madforce 3speed unit to fit their landmax2.... I remember SixVi6 replied somewhere on the thread (I think... lol..) could you or anyone post some pics or tell me a bit about what had to be done to convert? Was just thinking..... onroad-only 3spd 7.5 or landmax2 convert... that would be very sick.:D

Thanks a bunch for any info.. sorry if this has been done to death previously :o

uDi

[vad]

For the guys who want to convert to the LM2 I have one serious question to ask.......

WHY.......?

[vad]

Please dont take this the wrong way, but why waste money and why make the car slower. Seriously, going to smaller tires, shorter arms, shorters shocks, no rear wing (no downforce), the list goes on. Again...... Why....? If you ask me, I would never have gotten the landmax2 now that I know there are much better options out there. Alot better options...

[vad]

UDI,
to answer your question... you will need the following


(2) sets of arms
wheel hubs'
rims
tires
foam
body
body posts
body clips
wheel bolts
wheel hubs rear
short adjustable turnbuckles
shock towers
shocks
dog bones
universal dogbones front
rear axle


Thats all i can think of...
you might be better off buying a new one or a used one from ebay.

[SteinR]

Originally posted by vad
....(snip).... If you ask me, I would never have gotten the landmax2 now that I know there are much better options out there. Alot better options...

Hi Vad, care to elaborate?

[uDi_MP75]

I'm sorry you don't like your LM2 anymore, but like above, why?

My question about converting my 7.5 was purely out of interest, thanks for the reply. One more question regarding 3spd on the last page if anyone can help. SixVi6?

- The reason behind asking about the conversion is - i've found myself running onroad with the 7.5 more than anything else (when im not doing insane jumps) and if I get say the next Inferno a few years down the track, I could turn old faithful into a landmax and use it as an onroad/rally machine. It might cost a few bucks, but it will be a reliable and durable platform to screw around with, I already know that this kit can take severe abuse.

Another major reason is that if I tried to sell the kit, i'd probably lose a lot of money I originally spent - so it might be of more use to me if I let it hang around... another thing going for me is wear/tear on the kit is almost non-existant :)

Don't know why you are bagging on it all of a sudden vad, but a landmax is a landmax, there are few other options that will do everything a landmax does just as well, unless you want to go to a buggy. (which just isnt the same in terms of looks, realism, etc)

[Madaz]

yeah a landmax is 10 times better than running your buggy on tarmac. the buggy will grip roll all the time and just doesnt compare in the realism stakes to having a rally car drifting about the place.

Belgrave fitting the LM2 radiobox on a LM1 is simple if you dont mind drillin a few holes in ya chassis.

1./ Cut the radio tray off with a hacksaw about where the switch hole is (Cut it longer at first as you can always cut it shorter after).

2./ eye up the box on the chassis where you want it to be posistioned and file the radio tray to suit. Screw the bottom half of the box to ya radio tray and fit on car.... (you can use an exsisting hole and drill just one to fit it). then place a little paint on an allen key tip and poke it down the 4 holes in the radio box and mark the chassis.

then drill the chassis. You will have to use small spacers between the bottom of the box and the chassis so it clears the sideguard. (I used some old plastic bearings about 3mm thick.)

thats what is did if i remember correctly. just remember measure twice and cut it once and you wont go wrong.

HTH, madaz

[belgravekm]

your info was great,i'll get on it as soon as i get my hands on one.
check out this engine,i have one of these engines http://www.novarossi.com/index_ing.html
what do you think,is it better than the gs21r the cooling head is slightly different but it is too smallwhat head would you suggest for this engine.:)

[belgravekm]

wrong link the engine is an 8\s start .21 engine by novarossi

[vad]

Belgravkin,
Is this the motor

http://www.novarossi.com/motori/Foto%20motori/8s-150.jpg

[vad]

So you guys want to know what I have seen or the options im talking about....

well take a look.

http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/inicio.htm

[vad]

http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/celicasCAR10.jpg

[vad]

http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/mclmira2.jpg

[vad]

Dont get me wrong, I like my LM2 and will run as long as I can.

Since I got my LM2, I have been searching for Rally bodies because $70 per body from Kyosho is crazy. There are other companies which make rally cars some based off of the MP-7.5 offroad car. Check out bergonzoni and ofna

If you want the look and realizm of Rally check out Bergonzoni, they sell 4 different bodies for their 1/8 rally car. Ofna sells 3 different types. If you were to take the mounts from their cars and modify them to fit the stock MP-7.5 offroad buggy you would have a rally car, and the car would have the suspension travel and handling off a true offroad car (just remember you can set up an offroad car to run onroad by lowering the chassis height). You can also use the body mounts from the LM2. That is why im saying why not just keep the offroad buggy you have now, buy some 1/8 rally tires or street slicks, get a REAL 1/8 onroad eng (nova R1, JP kangaroo) and get body and body mounts.

The guys race these car seriously overseas, so why would they have cars looking like the offroad car and not more like the LM2 with the smaller wheels and shorter arms.

I race, and I mean race, the LM2 against guys who race there 1/8 offroad buggies on pavement, they have a much better advantage than I do. try racing a Mugen MBX-4 and HB lightning pros against an LM2 and see who will come out on top. Put a stock 7.5 against a stock LM2 and see which is faster on a closed Curcuit.

Keep one thing in mind, I'm speaking from a racers persective, not a person who runs the car in the street or in front of my home, so what I want out of LM2 is Different from everyone else. You just have to ask yourself what you want out of the car. Im not degrading the car or any person or bashing on anyone for buying the LM2, Im just here to help guide you in a good choice. Showing you different avenues, you can buy and do as you please but you asked so I telling you.

You have a 7.5 offroad buggy if you buy all the parts needed for an LM2 you will pay quite a bit, If you do it the other way

body costs $45 from GB direct in Florida.
Body mounts (LM2 mounts) $15-$20
(bergonzoni or ofna) price not known, but around
$20
Rally 1/8 scale tires equal in price to Kyosho landmax2 tires.


I think that will cover it all to make the 7.5 into a LM2 look alike.

The choice is up to you, when you decide to do it.

[vad]

With the money you save on the conversion, you can go out and get a Rocket of a motor but if you run a 7.5 offroad you should have something decent.

[belgravekm]

the head on mine is different but basically the same engine mine to is small.

[belgravekm]

i haven't tried the two speed with this engine yet will it fit ?
sorry about so many post.

[vad]

Novarossi with 2 speed..... Oh oh....I hear the 3 port motors have very good low end punch with 2 speed and a quick accelerting motor should keep your car going fast..

[ZzS]

I bought a TT EB-4 1/8 offroad buggy and a McLaren F1 GTR body for it. It's looking just about the same as the McLaren body above on this thread. I painted it black and its looking very good.
I was running it at the first time today on a parking lot and it handles very well with Tarmac II's. The car has a 5 degrees kick-up so I run it approx. -1 or -2 camber in the front and the same on the rear.

The only problem is the top speed. It's hardly 35mph with a 10,89:1 ratio (14T bell). I'm thinking to order a 18T bell but I'm afraid of if the acceleration will drop too badly. 16T could be quite good choice if compromising is the key to a decent running. And some hole should be added into the clutch shoes in onroad use.

My Landmax has a Rossi R21 Eco 1.6 hp engine with 30000 rpm and it makes my Max fly very fast with 2-speed tranny. But that EB-4 has a OSRZv01b engine with 2.45 hp and 40000rpm. I can't say if the sound is any higher in that OS comparing to the Rossi sport engine. Should I just screw the main needle of the OS even if it's now only 2 turns open? I would want to hear and see something difference with 0.85 hp and 10000 but can't see anything. but, maybe I should try the OS in the LM and complain then if necessary anymore. It's also quite confusing that with the OS it's wery hard to keep the engine running after starting; it will often stop within 10sec to 1 minute. So I have to very little by little push the throttle to avoid stalling etc.

[ZzS]

You can check out my site www.linnunrata.net/~vsaari to find pictures about that box fitted into my Max.

BTW, in the very near future (probably on this week) many new vids, pictures and other stuff about LM and EB-4 will appear on the site. Including my newest Landmax body named Racer. It's something you haven't ever seen (at least in that form I think)!

[vad]

ZZS,
On the OS motor, try screwing IN your Idle screw. If you need to retune you eng 2 1/2 turns OUT on the high speed needle and 3 1/2 on the low speed needle. If you need quicker acceleration, you can screw in the low needle IN about 1/8 or Maximum 1/2 turn. On the High speed needle you can Go IN about 1/2 max, I would not recommending goind more than that. Treat the OS motor good and it will do the same back to you. Abuse it and it will screw you.


Clutch bell go with 15T and 16T you will have teh best of both worlds. Drill some holes in your clutch shoes It will give you better acceleration.

[vad]

Its official.....

I called Bergonzoni USA today to order my Celica body $48.00. I will try to see how it fits the landmax2 body posts. I also ordered the Bergonzoni body posts from the Blast rally car if there are any problems with the LM2 body posts.