Kyosho Landmax Forum v2.0

[uDi_MP75]

I did know about the Ofna and Bergo. offerings, but not the the Crono until now.

I know what you mean about the shortened arms and all on the LM's, and if it does work, (keeping my car as is, new body posts/shocktowers, body, wheels/tyres) I might give it a shot. That's not the first time i've heard commentary about the LM2 being disadvantaged on track by its slimmer (width-wise) profile, but I never race, just screw around anyway.

Like I said, not for another year+ at least though... I still love my buggy and what it does, and if I don't like Kyosho's next buggy release (or cant afford it because of their insane prices), im hanging on to this girl. (as a buggy)

Right now I run an OS V01b... its okay, but I am thirsting for more if you know what I mean. The money box is also thirsting for more, so no new engine for a while though.

[vad]

Affordable 1/8 rally bodies. (http://www.robsrchobbies.com/lexan_bodies)

[french-fry]

Vad, not to be an ass or anything, i think those ridiculously wide bodies look like trash-and-a-half.

Granted the bodies for the LM's are expensive, but you can't beat them for eighth scale realism. On top of that, my LM2 can run circles around most tenth scale cars and that's with the stock gs21r.

I think the LM2 is sweet, and I have yet to see something that could replace my LM2 directly. Additionally, making the conversion from an mp-7.5 makes a lot of sense, especially if you're finding yourself using it as more of a touring car than a buggy.

Okay, sorry for that, but I had to stick up for my car.

Now, on to a question regarding engines, i'm stuffing my XTM 24.7 into my LM2, and it fits fine, but I can't get my engine to start: it fires once, when starting, but turns over the WRONG direction!!! I'm thinking maybe it has too much compression and i should either change glow plugs or add a head shim. What do you guys think? Also, that got me thinkin that maybe i could get a little more life out of my "decompressed" GS21r, but removing a head shim; is that a good idea, or am i just gonna break something? Any help would be great.

-Alex

[vad]

Alex,
Im not saying the LM2 suck, well it does in stock form. As I said before, it depends on what the individual wants out of the car. I just think the conversion to an LM2 from a stock 7.5 is expensive when there are so many nice bodies out there.

I hope you dont think I was talking about the "affordable bodies" link thats just something i came across on the Ofna website. I wouldnt buy a CEN body it someone paid me, just like the Durataxx truck body someone posted sometime ago.

[vad]

Alex,
Your LM2 runs circles around 1/10 scale cars with a stock GS21R. what set do you have to out run a touring car, please let me know because I cant keep pace with the touring car and if I could I would smoke the 1/8 scale buggy group by 2 or 3 laps per race.

[Unobjectionable]

i loves me a good toy car controversy!

those sinyih bodies do look pretty funny (http://www.robsrchobbies.com/1_8_scale_rally_cars/), the ofna GTP (http://ofna.com/ugtp.html) bodies are not much better (that viper one still makes me laugh, "TEAM PLAYSKOOL RACING"), but the bergonzoni (http://www.bergonzoni.it/prodotti/1a8/carrozzerie/body_eng.htm) ones look pretty cool.....the problem with all of them is that the scale is off, they look kinda squashed and wide and normal buggy wheels are just too big to look right...

the original kyosho super eights were normal buggy width, but used wheels that were smaller than buggy wheels, and larger than LM wheels...and all three versions (959 and quattro (http://***********/gp20/misc/supereights01.jpg), skyline (http://***********/gp20/Calsonic/calsonic1.jpg)) were race cars so the width didn't look weird...of course, you won't have much luck finding any of those bodies (unless you are cool like me (http://***********/gp20/misc/collectards10.jpg)) (supereight skyline R32 left, LM skyline R34 right) but one of those bergonzoni bodies with those medial tarmac rims/tires might look okay (mmmmm nitrolambo)

but i digress...

jeroen was the first (and apparently only, so far) human to create a three speed landmax (http://***********/gp20/Users/Jeroen/jeroen3speed.jpg) (LM1) and he said all he really had to do was shorten that center shaft a bit (and make room for that bell by moving the tank)...maybe he will chime in with some more details...

alex - is your XTM a pullstart or what? two strokes will generally run backwards (poorly) but unless you bump started it backwards i'm not sure what to tell you...if your gs21 is on the way out you could always have some fun with it, or get that osrocket guy to squeeze it (or give it to me)

udi - vad makes a very valid point about the parts thing...you would be paying a nice chunk of change to convert your 7.5 to an LM2 after paying tower prices for all the miscellany...i would just keep an eye out for a used one as he mentions, prolly be about the same money and you could use most of your leftover 7.5 parts on it....i think you will like the landmax though, buggies are very cool but there is just something about having a big scale looking car (that you can drive like a total retard) that adds to the fun factor...

p.s. that LM2 that was on ebay that vad mentioned closed today, only had one bidder *cough cough*

[french-fry]

Unob - yeah its a pull start, and i pull it, it fires once, then sucks the pull start back in and dies because the pull start cord gets completely rewound.

Vad - okay, so i wasn't telling the whole truth, i do have the two speed tranny, which isn't race legal, but still, other than than that and real shocks (bsw72 i think) my lm is completely stock. So then, i ask, what else do you think the lm2 needs, or maybe the two speed is enough of a jump from stock?

[SteinR]

Vad, I thought you ment LM "size". I fully agree with you on the performance advantage on the Rally Game cars, but you loose the scale apperence as the RG cars normally look extremely wide. I like some of the Bergonzoni shells, especially the Viper, but I normally use the McLaren myself. I've got a MP-6 and a MP-7.5 "converted" into RG cars, and I also have a Fioroni belt conversion for the GS Storm (http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/fioriniRG.htm). I'm also planning on ordering the BMT 981 Active 2003 (http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/activa2003.htm) soon.

Unobjectionable, I love that Super Eight Calsonic. Myself I've got a NIB Audi V8 Quattro body with decals and accessories. The quality of those Kyosho Super Eight bodies are superb compared to a lot of the RG bodies sold today, but they are/were awfully expensive....

[SteinR]

BTW: For the people interested in scale apperence, you also has the option of "stretched" buggies. Protech (http://www.protech.be) sell so called 1:6 touring cars which are based on Hong Nor (Ofna) buggies with stretched chassis
http://www.umearc.se/fullsize/100116_Mvc-166s.jpg

They sell a basic car which is based on the Ultra LX
http://www.umearc.se/fullsize/100116_chassi3.jpg and a "pro" car based on the MBX R2 (front and rear pillow ball suspension + 2speed)
http://www.umearc.se/fullsize/100124_bil.jpg

Carson also sell a similar sized "stretched" buggy car.

[vad]

Alex,
There might not be any need to upgrade the stock LM2. Only upgrades are needed for performance enhancements. If someone is running for fun the stock LM2 will work great. Lets take the 2 of us for example.

You- run in large open area, so a 2 speed mets your needs.

Me- race on a 1/10 scale size track, need low end and acceleration only with the best possible suspension.

Upgrades are based on an individuals needs. I was saying to UDI that if he wants to save money go with the rally car body from ofna, Berg, or Crono. If money was no object and realism is everything then get the LM2 conversion, Lot more money.

I have to try this 2 speed out just for fun, I just worried about stripping the gears out, my main purpose will be for onroad racing only so not too many jumps maybe none at all. I'll have to go through previous posts and see what you guys use to say about the 2 speed.

[vad]

Stein,
Please post detail pics of the 7.5 converted to Rally Game. I would like to see how you mounted the body. At the moment that is my main concer with the new body from Bergy. Also, set up on the car, did you change the stock mounting positions and diffs, did you go to any lock out diffs. Please tell more about the 7.5RG. I know this is the LM forum, if you have another place you post it, let me know..

[french-fry]

Okay, i can agree with that.

Oh and don't worry about stripping the 2 speed gears, first, i haven't yet had a problem with running it off road (as you are warned not to do by kyosho) and second, i already have stripped the gears (poor engine alignment, etc) and its really easy to replace the worn gears.

[vad]

I will do some searching on the 2speed through the old post and see what the best set up is and what gears to run.

[SteinR]

Vad, we can take it on e-mail if you like: srime@statoil.com

[Madaz]

A totally different option for a lm bodyshell...... my brother has started constructing his own '70's dastun/cortina style body out of very thin sheetmetal. (the ultimate in realism especially when it hits something) here are the pics he sent me. what do you guys think? Cool or what? i cant wait to see the finished shell.

[Madaz]

and a side veiw.......

[uDi_MP75]

vad - no I agree. I do like the scale look of the LM2, but being a poor man, the cheaper way out is usually the better way out for me. If I ever do convert the beast, I'll go for the method you suggested.

SteinR - no, please keep it on the thread. I'd appreciate it, and it could/would be useful information for anyone else whos interested. The LM2 is very much still a 7.5 anyway, so you wouldn't be going off topic by posting a 7.5 gone RG.

Mazdaz - wow that is some real cool stuff. I think the realism might be just a bit too much when you crash that thing though...:p

[belgravekm]

that's really nice,please post pics of the finish product and of course when you crash:D

[vad]

Stein,
If it is okay, lets keep the 7.5 RG conversion on this area, If I do decide to do a full conversion, I can either take my LM2 and change it around or do it to the MP-7.5, so either way its is related to this topic. If you need to post photos, you can email them to me. Let me know I will send you my Email addy.

[vad]

Guys its just too much to go back through and read, I tried all day yesterday, but too much offtopic stuff to get down to the 2 speed posts....



I would like to make the LM2 in to my fun car. I would like to install a 2 speed tranny in the car.

Things I have

OS RZ-V01 (p) shaft Long shaft
engine mounts
2 shoe clutch
mp-7.5 flywheel

Things I need

I have no clue.....?

[ZzS]

I think you need only the transmission unit. Nothing else. My LM 1 needed only that and I can't believe that things have changed with the LM 2.

A question, does the LM 2 have steel diffs and other goodies that MP 7.5 has? Or is it just conversion of the 7.5 Sport?

Hey vad, I noticed that you have the rzv01b. Could you send me a sound sample of the highest rpm it can take while running? I'd be very pleased. Oh, thanks for the advises you gave me with that eng. I retuned it just the way you said and then tuned it into quite a good shape.

I tried the LM's 2-speed clutch bell on the EB-4 buggy and the RZ split the bells gear into two pieces! It just didn't stand the outstanding power and gave up! Well, now I have to wait to the next Kyosho order from a hobby shop to get something to put between eng and 2-speed to deliver the power...

Do you think the Duratrax Street Force GP's 2-speed clutch bells (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=DuraTrax+Clutch+Bell+Street+Forc e+GP++&FVPROFIL=++) fit into LM?

[vad]

Hey vad, I noticed that you have the rzv01b. Could you send me a sound sample of the highest rpm it can take while running? I'd be very pleased. Oh, thanks for the advises you gave me with that eng. I retuned it just the way you said and then tuned it into quite a good shape.


Super good, that calls for dinner on you...lol.. Glad to see that it worked out good for you. Can you tell me what you did more specifically, i know its more to type but that helps out.

If you did the 2 1/2 on the high speed needle and 3 1/2 on the low speed needle, and it worked fine that is great. Guys I use to race with used this needle set up and on the OS 20B carb, and those settings seems to work good on all OS engs, and sometimes the OS carb is sooooo good guys are using them on Novarossi and picco brand engs. Its a good all around carb.

O1VB sound, I dont know how easy it will be for me to chase my car around at full throttle with a 2 speed but ill try, you know the motor can make different sounds just by changing the pipe.

[vad]

ZzS,
What are you doing to split the bell....? you are making me want to reconsider my purchase on the 2 speed...


The LM2 has the same diffs as the 7.5 Sport. The stock 7.5 comes with the Hardened steel bevel diff gears and the hardened steel Pinion Diff gear. Designed to with stand alot of abuse. Also the internal diff gears the 7.5 comes with 6 gears where as the LM2 comes with 4 gears. Overall the 7.5 is designed to with stand more abuse, its a racing toy after all. The LM2 is more of a bash and bang car. Which is all good either way you look at it.

[ZzS]

If you did the 2 1/2 on the high speed needle and 3 1/2 on the low speed needle, and it worked fine that is great.
Yeah, I did just that and screwed the high end IN less than 1/2 turn. Now my car accelerates quickly to the maximum speed (needs only about 150ft to archieve it). Only stand-start doesn't go too well but after drilling holes to the clutch shoes I believe that thing will be fixed.

Now I have to find a bell with 18T to create a bit faster onroad vehicle. I run on large areas and don't want hear horrible (or sweet) sreaming all round the parking lots at the 35mph. 50mph would be just about that I want from my racing car :)

I have a Kyosho tuned pipe EFRA nro 35 (JM-002). Is this the best pipe for v01b? I think this is low-medium range pipe, so at high end it not so good as a high end pipe could be, of course!

BTW, do you change the length of the pipe so the power could be moved more to the high end? How do you do that? I have never known anything about changing the lenght of the pipe in order to adjust the engine's performance.

[vad]

This is from the PAris Racing Website....

Effects of changing manifold to pipe length:

Rule of thumb:
Longer manifold = more bottom end torque. [At the expense of some rpm]
Shorter manifold = more top end rpm [at the expense of some torque]
BUT you can go to far with either direction causing the engine to run erratic or HOT!
You must keep it in the "sweet spot"
Bottom line: there is no set length for every engine or pipe, experiment with the length to suit your driving style or track needs.

Good Racing,
Ron

[ZzS]

Originally posted by vad
ZzS,
What are you doing to split the bell....? you are making me want to reconsider my purchase on the 2 speed...
You know the stock clutch bell in the LMs? It's not from a one solid steel but has the gear and the bell-part put together somehow. So the 2-speed bell is made just the same way as the stock bell. The bell-part was already got loose from the gear-part even with a sport engine (Rossi R21 Eco, 1,6 hp ,30000rpm). But that didn't make running impossible. The gear part still turned well on two ball bearings. But now the gear-part split and came loose from the rest of the clutch bell. Weird thing, but I can take a picture from it and put it to my page. It just take a week or so...

[vad]

ZzS,
There are many pipes that are good with the VZ-01B eng. I would stronly recommend the femac 512 pipe, its expensive but wow, thats a pipe that will give you the mid to top, but if you are running a 18T bell, you dont need top just low to mid. Currently many offroad racers are saying good things about the OS T2050 but not sure if you want to spend $120 for a tune pipe, it is an inline set, pipe and manifold all in one.


OS eng, if you have stand start problem, try screwing IN the low end needle about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn, not too much here. Glad to here about your good fortune with this motor.

Also, tell me how your clutch set up goes too, with the new drilled holes in the two shoe clutch.

What center gear are you planning on using with the 18T the stock 44t that the LM2 comes with or the 46T optional gear.

[french-fry]

whoa!? you broke the gear off the clutch bell?? I've been using the two speed for almost a year now, and have had absolutely no problems. That's weird.

You are using a standard crank shaft right? Because I could see it would be easy to break if you were using a pilot shaft.

Nice body by the way.

[french-fry]

One other thing:

I've been using the Kyosho low profile tires for almost 9 months now, and I've found that the tread is still intact, and by intact I mean in great shape, but the side walls are cracking. I'm wondering if you guys find that your tread goes first, or the side walls.

Seeing as these tires or only the second set I've ever used, following the stock tires, I'm really impressed.

[vad]

If I use a soft foam the outer walls start cracking, with a firm foam the thredz go first, I cant seem to make them last for more than 1 month (8) five min races.

[Magol]

Hi,
My name is Magnus and I'm from Sweden, this is my first message in this very awsome and greatful forum.

I've tried to understand what stuff I'll need to get Tarmac II or any other 1:8 buggy rims to fitt my LM2 but I don't get it.

Is't the same like this?

To fit my old Inferno DX rims on my HPI Savage, I had to take the hubs from the Inferno and fit them on the Savage. So can I do the same on the LM2, just move my old Inferno hubs to the LM2?

Do I have to modify my body?
Another header then stock?


I would really appreciate if some one could tell the entire walk trough with pictures and all how to fit 1:8 buggy rims on LM2.

Thanks again for a great forum!

regards,

Magnus

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by vad
The LM2 has the same diffs as the 7.5 Sport. The stock 7.5 comes with the Hardened steel bevel diff gears and the hardened steel Pinion Diff gear. Designed to with stand alot of abuse. Also the internal diff gears the 7.5 comes with 6 gears where as the LM2 comes with 4 gears.

Actually, the regular/stock 7.5 has 4 bevels in each diff, while the 7.5 sports has 2 bevels - which I would believe is repeated on the LM2. Just clearing things up.

A worthy upgrade on an LM2/Sports (especially if your going to run a high power mill) is to buy the hardened steel ring+pinion gears, and a pair of bevels, bevel shims, and one bevel shaft for each diff. (the diff cases are the same, so all you need to do is toss the extra shaft and bevels in)

Take it from me that those hardened gears will never wear out. (do take the time to shim them though - as with any diff).

ZzS - Im running an RB 086 on my V01B right now and it works well (mid > top and still decent lowend too). There is also an Ofna version of the same pipe, which is cheaper, works the same and also apparently takes more of a beating (my polished RB pipe gets mashed up far too easily, although landmaxin might not be as rough on pipes)

[Madaz]

should i get this pipe? I dont know if its any good. it is a ofna pipe and cheap enough. My cvec pipe is good but difficult to tune engine with it..... ANy one owned this pipe or recommend it or is it just as bad as the original LM exhaust?

Welcome to the best forum Magnus.... You would be better buying medial pro tarmac ll wheels because they are closer to LM size wheels and will fit straight on. The inferno wheels are a bit too big and you may need new exhaust manifold and lower suspension alot!
what do u think of this exhaust?

[vad]

Magnus,
Welcome to the LM forum... Hope you enjoy yourself here...


I use 1/8 buggy rims on my LM2 in the rear for then next 2 or 3 months, after 2 or 3 months I will use 1/8 scale rims only on my LM2. If you can buy Ofna hubs

part number
OFN86000
http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/images/ofn86000.jpg

That is what I use and it works perfect. $20 for a full set, but thats all you would need.

[vad]

Madaz,

What eng are you using?

[Madaz]

vad, i have a ofna hyper21 4 port.

[vad]

Madaz,
Are you getting a fair price for the pipe, if so, get it.

[hung_kuen]

hello everybody.. does anyone know if the black force 21 turbo fit directly into the lm2 or do i need new mounts? its been a long time since my last run with my car but thats going to change:D :D

[belgravekm]

right now i am in the process of trying to mount my 8\s start engine in my lm1 without any additional cost,but i keep running into stumbling blocks,so i need some friendly advice here goes
1.i have the stock fly wheel from the lm1 with a two shoe clutch with a spring that was replaced with a tighter one,or,use a three
shoe clutch with a smaller fly wheel.what advantages can be had from each of these setups?
2.the clutch nut that i have does not have a groove in it ot allow me to use the three shoe setup
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSZ7&P=7
(this not the same one that i have but it is showing no groove)
now can i still use this setup (safely)even though it does not have the groove?or,can i file in a new groove:confused:
hey i have another ofna truck which i canabalised for parts engine mounts,shocks etc.this save me tons of money..:D
thankx..

[Madaz]

If the clutchbell fits over the 3 shoe clutch with nut/spring installed then try run it like that. The notches could be filed just make them the same size incase it unbalances your crankshaft too much. If it all fits without notches dont bother try fileing them.

Vad that foriegn site link you posted: http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/inicio.htm has some good videos and the rallygame cars look impressive, if only we had a racing class for landmax's like that but on dirt/tarmac tracks.

[Madaz]

If the clutchbell fits over the 3 shoe clutch with nut/spring installed then try run it like that. The notches could be filed just make them the same size incase it unbalances your crankshaft too much. If it all fits without notches dont bother try fileing them.

Vad that foriegn site link you posted: http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/inicio.htm has some good videos and the rallygame cars look impressive, if only we had a racing class for landmax's like that but on dirt/tarmac tracks.

[vad]

Madaz,
Those cars are good if there is a group to race with, just running round in the open fields the LM would do perfect.

I have my Corolla bodies from Bergonzoni come in last Friday, I will be painting my first one sometime this week and the 7.5k2 buggy that I will be mounting the body on should be here sometime next week. I will be racing the Rally Car in the next few weeks in the onroad races here. Well let you guys know how it turns out.

[vad]

Very nice looking Landmax2 on auction website.

Auction number on ebay #3138073383

[uDi_MP75]

vad - can you post some pics when your done with that K2/RG if possible? im looking forward to seeing what it turns out like.

[Jimmy33]

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-3/117061/Landmax006.jpg

[Jimmy33]

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-3/117061/Landmax003.jpg

[Jimmy33]

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-3/117061/Landmax002.jpg

[Jimmy33]

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-3/117061/Landmax001.jpg

[french-fry]

sweet!

[Madaz]

sweetaz, cosworths rule.

[vad]

Found another nice rally website, some cool pics, same vids...


http://an.sanchez0025.eresmas.net/principal.htm

[Sven]

Hi!

I bought my Landmax a week ago. It's a great car and I like it allot. My club is in the process of building a rally/buggy track and in the meanwhile I've been doing some racing on the tarmac track. As you already know the stock tires wear out pretty quick so I bought the Tarmac II and some 17mm hubs (K-Factory, didn’t fit very well but after some ova ling it worked ok). Now to my question, what tires and rims do you guys use or recommend for gravel and/or dirt? I want to use my Evo body but that will not work with buggy tires/rims, would it? Tell me what you think. Thanks a lot!

Regards
Sven

[vad]

Sven,
If you use dirt and tarmac, for rims go with the kyosho rims or get premounted GRP rims. The GRP rims come 15 spoke rims and sometime mounted with rubber, where are you located....?

If you use buggy tires you might have a problem with fit, the buggy tires mounted come out to be to large, you can fix that by cutting some of the body lexan.... take a look at the photos below and see the sized or tires.


http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/PhotoLoft/Asset20/2003/04/12/10541/10541966_0_3552.fpx,0,0,1,1,800,600,FFFFFF


http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/Photoloft/Asset21/2003/04/25/10580/10580360_0_9221.fpx,0,0,1,1,800,600,FFFFFF

[hung_kuen]

I have just gotten my black force turbo,it has an sg shaft and when i tried to attach my 2speed i found out that the the shaft is to short even with a bell guide whasher?:confused: anybody has any idea? cant wait to burn some rubber:D

[hung_kuen]

i got the shaft thing fixed and are finaly gettin the n the lm back on the road.. but should i clean the fuel tank before i start using it again it`s been unused fore half a year ( i did drain it before i stored it):confused:

[Jay_esS]

I'm rebuilding my LM2 complete with BSW-72 shocks, front and rear sway bars and alloy radio posts.

I'm considering buying a Motor Saver air filter - What type of filters do you guys use for dusty off-road? - Has anyone tried a MS?

I'm also considering a BSW-48 tuned pipe - I'm running the stock GS 21R for now but I hope to get a RB or an OS eventually. Can anyone recommend the '48 or should I consider something else (I'm located in UK) - Also I'd rather not have to cut my 206 shell again for exhaust exit so will the Kyosho pipe/s guarantee this?

hung_kuen - I would put a splash of fuel in the tank and give it a good shake then through away the fuel - use new fuel and pressure tubing throughout

[tarheelquality]

I have one on the way and was wondering what the inner diameter is on the tires? Would hpi Super size tires fit the stock wheels?
Thanks,
Tom

[Unobjectionable]

the OD on the landmax rims is about 2.6"/63mm....most 2.2" tires will fit provided they are not too wide (ie: buggy/super rears, truck rears are generally too wide and tall)

jay - i have never used the motor saver, but make sure you get the offroad version and you should be okay...don't know how the BSW-48 will line up with the stock pipe as far as the exhaust outlet as the stock crap pipe has the outlet placed so far back compared to a "normal" pipe

[hung_kuen]

jay- i did what you said and it cleand it out well:D about the pipe,i got the cvec pipe and had to cut out a new hole in my subaru.
the stock one is further back as mentioned before.. by the way thanks for the advice:)

i have now been waiting for a week to get some turbo plugs and the exhaustbend to my new engine and when i finely got it they had sent me a wrong one:mad: :mad: now i have to wait even longer to break in my new engine

[Jay_esS]

vad
On page 64 you recommended a "ugly" kyosho pipe - the FEMAC 512 approved IFW-37 - In the UK I can get the '37 for £66 or the BSW-48 for £65 - I'm hope to upgrade to a RB or OS soon - Does the '37 have better performance characteristics?

Thanks Unob, I've ordered a 1/8 bugggy MS filter - you haven't posted much recently - you moved house or something - are you back to R/Cing again?

hk - what engine do you have with a turbo plug?

JS

[belgravekm]

anyone know where i can find a two speed manual online for the lm1:o

[hung_kuen]

jay- i got the force 21r turbo black head 8p (force e-2114) looks very nice, i will post some pictures when i get my digital camera back from a friend of mine..

[vad]

Jay,
If you are looking for more low to mid range go with the 48, for mid to top go with the 37.

[Unobjectionable]

looking forward to seeing those pics hung, how did you fix the problem with the shaft? (vad will probably want to know more about this too eheh)

keith - i have the scanned instructions for the LM1/GT-30 two speed online (pages one (http://***********/gp20/Reference/GT-30-1.gif) and two (http://***********/gp20/Reference/GT-30-2.gif)) or you can download more or less the same thing from the very bottom of kyosho.com's manuals page here (http://www.kyosho.com/manuals/index.html)...(my scans look prettier, if i do say so myself)

jay - still haven't had much time/energy to actually PLAY, but i am still a bonafide addict...bought an LM2 off ebay which i still haven't received yet, but i've been buying parts for...hehehe

(speaking of which, there is another very nice looking LM2 up now, item 3139165998)

[tarheelquality]

Unobjectionable,

Was this the one you bought 3138073383 ? If so I was trying for it too, I ended uo getting the one with the m8 reciever and servos that ended the next day. You got a nice looking car if it was. Waiting on mine too cant wait to get it.

[Unobjectionable]

nope, the one i won ended a couple weeks before that last one (and went a good bit cheaper)

you got a nice deal on your LM1, i think you will enjoy it...if you need the parts list or manual i have them here (http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt) and here (http://***********/gp20/Reference/LM1manual.zip) respectively...and some other misc. stuff here (http://***********/gp20/Reference)...

[hung_kuen]

unobjectionable-
i won`t get my camera until the end of the week then i`ll post some pics:)

How i attached the 2-speed to an sg shaft:
the reason you can`t attach it is because the shaft is to short right?
So i got hold of an bell guide washer (ifw35) wich will ad about 3mm so the outer ballbearing of the bell will roll on.
then i still missed 5mm so i could thighten the clutch bell without jamming it agaist the flywheel,so i took the stock pilot shaft with has the same measurements and cut 5mm of the end.
Now i can thighten the clutchbell it`s smooth as a baby`s skin and seems though enough..
but still i havent tested it thoug,my lhs are sending me my manifold and plugs tomorrow,i ordrerd a evo body as well since my subaru has had enough:D :D i hope you understand my bad english hehe

[Unobjectionable]

i understand, sounds like it will work fine...there is a similar part from the mad force that would probably work too, if you run into any problems (KYOC6607/MAW-8 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=KYOC6607&P=K/) - this would most likely have to be shortened to fit right, but it is just one piece)

did you order the old EVO IV body or the new EVO VII? i am still trying to find the part number for the new one

[tarheelquality]

Anyone know of a gtp or similar type body that will fit for onroad use? Want something with good downforce but not too much drag. I was looking at 1/8 on road bods but they are about 1 1/2 inches too short, width was about right though.
Thanks,
Tom

[vad]

Tom,
What car will you be using it on, the LM2 the gtp body might not work right, the best ones for the LM car is the Kyosho bodies, if you have a 1/8 offroad buggy and plan on using that then the GTP body will work. I recently bought a rally body from GB direct located in Orlando Florida for $45. I can use the stock LM2 body mounts no problems, I use the front bumper from the Bergonzoni car and I have one mounted on my LM2 already for testing at this friday nights racing.

[tarheelquality]

I'm using it on a LM2. Just want to try to find something besides rally bodies to run. I might still borrow my bodies 1/8 lmp body to see how close it is.
Thanks

[hung_kuen]

unobjectionable- it was the new Evo VII body but did it by phone so i dont`t have the number but i`ll se if i can get it tomorrow.
thanks for the link man, i think i`ll have to get that one..
it will take some time before it arives here in norway so i`ll have god time testing my solution..only two days now and i am back on the road:D :D my trigger finger si itchy eheh

[hung_kuen]

I have been waiting to say this fore so long THE PARTS HAS ARIVED:D :D

unobjectionable- the number for the evo VII is 39291

Have to go break in the new engine


:D :D

[hung_kuen]

of coarse i ran into some problems:mad: the sleve is so tight that my starter dont manage to pull the flywheel aroun it yust jams :confused: :confused: i baught the starter box that was recomended anyone please help!!!

[Jay_esS]

hk - If you having difficulty with a brand new engine, there are a few things to try

heat the head with a hair dryer before trying to start

loosen the glo plug 1/8 turn then re-tighten once the engine has started

make sure your batteries are at their best

use fresh fuel and a new plug (test plug first)

n.b - make a mark on the flywheel so that you will know when the piston is at the bottom of its travel - once you have completed a run of the engine turn the flywheel to make sure the piston is at the bottom - If you stop a brand new race engine and let it cool with the piston at the top, the piston may "lock" and stick being extremely difficult to start causing possible damage

The reason for this is that the sleeve is narrower towards the top to provide better compression and broader at the bottom to allow easier assembly

personally I run a new engine very rich at just above normal idle for about 3-4 minutes and let cool in between - I do this for approx 2 tanks - then I do the rest driving very carefully

you shouldn't need the hair dryer after the first run
some experts advise against loosening the plug but you sound desperate so.......
high compression race engines are nearly always really tight - persevere


have you thoroughly cleaned the engine inside and out? - 1) plug the carb and exhaust with tissue and tighten plug then, immerse in methanol or petrol (gasolene) and rumble about 2) with fresh petrol and clean container immerse again with plug and tissue removed - rotate crank-shaft to pump out any manufacturing debris - allow to dry then lubricate - careful with the highly flammable stuff

hope this helps

JS

[hung_kuen]

yay_es8

Thanks fore the fast reply,i`ll by a heat gun first thing tommorow :D :D now i can at least prep my new evo body:D i`ll post how it went:)

[Jay_esS]

I've been studying the Tower Models site for a while now - excelent source of info - Does any one know of any other sites for cheap mail order and/or technical info?

Unob - Kyosho finaly have the evo vii on their site after months of "under construction" ,however they still don't have the options up

vad - have ordered the IFW-37, - thanks

How does the O.S. RG compare to the GS21R performance wise? - if I could get it through UK customs unchecked (from Tower) it would only be about £100 - pretty tempting - it costs £150-£175 over here

does anyone run a RB S7? what's it like?

I know this is a recurring question but I can't find an answer - a SG shaft or pilot shaft is the long one with the unthreaded end? - and the normal or plain shaft is the short one threaded to the end - is this correct?
I've read people recommending both for the LM - is the normal/short one better for a 2speed? and the pilot for single speed? - which would do both or be easiest to convert? - any views welcome

JS

[vad]

Jay,
If you go WS7 you will never get anything else. It is an all around eng and will keep you happy for a very long time, as long as you take care and clean the motor.

[hung_kuen]

the haet gun did the trick :D :D the sound off the second gear taking off gave me chils down my spine thanks fore the great tips everybody this forum is great:) i`ll post some pics of my new evo body as sonn that it is finish

[Bottomless Pit]

Hey guys I have a question for ya'll. I been racing 1/8 scale buggies for a while now and pretty familiar with them, and I know the landmaxs are basically the same. I have a MP 6 International, and also some spare MP 7.5 buggy parts. I am thinking of building a dragster style car with one of them. My question is, does anyone make a 3 speed tranny to fit in the landmax cars, or a 3 speed that cam be modified to fit in one. I know that to convert the MP 6 to landmax form wouldnt be that hard, but I am leaning more towards the MP 7.5 due to availible hop ups for the buggies that I can make work with the dragster. Also it wont be 4wd either. Just rear wheel.

[HKmaxx]

Drop in the 3 speed from the Madforce, it has been done before.

[Jay_esS]

Bottomless pit - if you go to nitroreveiw.com, on page 2 of the Landmax forum there is a post by jeroen called "landmax 3" - unfortunatley the pictures are down but maybe you could email him?

[Unobjectionable]

http://***********/gp20/Users/Jeroen/jeroen3speed.jpg




I know this is a recurring question but I can't find an answer - a SG shaft or pilot shaft is the long one with the unthreaded end? - and the normal or plain shaft is the short one threaded to the end - is this correct?


yes, absolutely right


I've read people recommending both for the LM - is the normal/short one better for a 2speed? and the pilot for single speed? - which would do both or be easiest to convert? - any views welcome


probably be easier to fit the two speed with the threaded crank engine for the reasons hung mentioned (sg crank comes up short compared to a threaded crank engine with the longer thread-on pilot shaft supplied with the two speed kits) but should certainly be possible with either

on the other hand, not sure how hard it will be to mount a threaded crank engine in an LM2 since they don't give you any info on how to do it (ie: which flywheel to use) but i will have some more info on this soon as i got my new (used) LM2 last week (yay)...will have some pics soon


p.s. thank you for that part number hung, i added it to the LM1 parts list and gave you credit (will have an LM2 parts list sooner or later also)

[Jay_esS]

:cool: Wow! hot stuff Unob - 3sp ,shocks,sways,K&N, a CVEC and a hot lookin mill (Picco?) - somebody loves their baby $$$ :)

[Sven]

Hello,
I’m looking into buying some new tires for my LM2. The track I’m racing at is pretty ruff and bumpy. It’s probably not suitable for a LM but anyhow, the only track in my area. :rolleyes: I’ve asked about tires before and this time I’m hoping to get some suggestions on what tires that is suitable for the LM on a buggy course. I’ve bought the 17mm hexes so I can use tires that need such rims.

I’ve got an old Inferno DX and tried the wheels from it on my LM but that was not pretty. :eek: However it handled ok on the track. Has anyone else out there any experience on driving the LM with such tires or on a buggy track? Please share your experiences, what tires/rims do you use, shocks and springs etc… I’m eager to hear your opinions as I’m certain that most of you guys have been driving your LM much much more than I have!

BTW, I've read this thread from the first page and learnt a lot, and also forgotten a lot, so if I’m kicking a dead horse here I’m sorry about that.

Thanks,
Sven

[vad]

Sven,
If you can get some rally tires from GRP

Rally M01
http://www.grpgandini.com/immagini/modello4big.jpg

Belt M02
http://www.grpgandini.com/immagini/modello35big.jpg

[Sven]

Ok, thanks Vad. Are those tires made for buggy rims? Also, do you know of any other tire that can handle more ruff surfaces? I have a pic showing a part of the track I'm racing on. Though it's a very bad pic, I hope it shows what the conditions are like.

Thanks

[vad]

Sven,
If you are going to run your Landmax on that type of surface, forget about the rally M01 and Belt M02 tires. Just run what they guys use on there buggies that will be your best bet. If you have to have Dual purpose tires look at the Proline Knuckles XTR (hard) coumpound.

If you plan on using offroad 1/8 scale buggy tires, you will want to avoid using them on the street as much as possible, the street surface will eat up the offroad tires very quickly.

[Sven]

Ok, the Knuckles look pretty decent. Any suggestion on where to buy them? I live in Sweden and I'm pretty sure the local dealer will charge a scary amount for them. :eek:

If you now of any online shops that carries Proline, please let my know.

Thanks
Sven

[jeroen]

This forum is still going strong(unfortunaitly this can't be said for nitroreview,althow I updated my posts over there)

Damn I must have been at least half a year agoIdrove my landmax for the last time,untill today.(I was too busy driving my motorcycle)

Man I must say I mist it.

But I had the stock engine in it,so it didn't go that fast.

Maybe I but back the 3-speed and XTM,so I can also make some nice quality vids with my dads new cam.

I also ordered somenew parts over at tower hobbies so I can put in my 2 speed tranny again

Now the only thing for me too do is rebuilding my madforce,so I'm fully back in rc car.

[hung_kuen]

Unobjectionable-

thanks fore the cred man.. great work with the 3 speed i would love the sound of that.
i see you use a cvec as well,i have problems tuning my newly broken in engine ( due to bad tuning skills) do you have some good pointers..

jeroen-
good to see you back at the forum..

i have taken some pictures of my new evo body but i cant get the file size small enough:confused: gues i need some pointers there as well

Claus

[hung_kuen]

back again.. i have just been outside trying to tune my engine but i just cant get it right:mad: im am 2 seconds away from flipping totally..
my stock engine was a walk in the park compared to this one..
first i tried with my cvec one but it idles so mutch that i cant get it to stand still.
Then i tried with my stock pipe but the same problem is there..these are properly dumb questions but i have tried to adjust the throttel screw and the low speed needle but cant get it right..
please help fast.. i am dying to drive the car i will try again tomorrow thoug, no matter what

[Madaz]

2 months without my lm!! boohhooo. my pullstart blisters are all healed and i just cannie take it. soon ill be reunited with it in nz tho :)

hung_kuen if you motor wont run try turning all the needles to the factory settings and start from the beginning, most engines should start at the original settings. What Tuning problems are you having exactly? give us some more details maybe we could help better.

Try the cvec at a different piston spring setting. (this affects tuning)


I would like to see some evo7 pics. You need to reduce the file size to around 55kb or smaller. Use a paint program or a good picture veiwer like ACDSee which you can save and compress the jpeg file. (also reduce the image size to about 500-800 pixels wide and high).

good luck

[ThorBobRC]

WooHoo! Looks like all the "usual suspects" are still here! Its been a while since I've tinkered with my RC's, but I did finally get a lid done for my poor "home-grown-Landmax-Hyper-thingy". I have yet to even run the engine, seems like every time I have a spare moment I run into snags - last time I thought I had everything ready to run it turned out I was missing a servo....LOL.


On to the update: I decided on a "basher lid", or an "everyday body" for the car. Being a big Suba and WRC fan, its was a fairly easy choice. And this time I at least have an excuse for painting it blue :lol . So Kyoshos 1/8 2001 Imprezza lid fit the bill perfectly. The wheels are also Kyosho, I painted them with a fairly tough bronze coating - remains to see how well it holds up. I just wanted a bit of a stock look.

I have serveral choices for tires, Kyoshos Rally block for rougher stuff, and semi slicks for pavement. In the pictures you see it with Pro Line Road Rages, an interesting combo IMO for pavement and such. Oh, and the wheels even have fake brake disks on the inside (not that you see em well in the pix), also standard on Landmax 1 wheels. And while I playing with fake details, I added some leftover windshield wipers from the old Escort body the original truck came with.

Anyways - here are some shots of it with the Suba body. I do have another body for it, sort of a future upgrade, so to speak :lol .

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_Pix/Rally/complete/f_rh2.jpg

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_Pix/Rally/complete/ho3.jpg


..and finally a couple of top-less shots..

http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_Pix/Rally/complete/tlf2.jpg


http://www.tnett.no/thorbob/RC_Pix/Rally/complete/tlr.jpg



Hope you like em!

Thor

[vad]

Thor,
I have been keeping track of your development of the LM Car, I have one thing to say, you have done an amazing job with that car.....

[vad]

Below are pics of a 7.5 buggy with Bergonzoni rally body.

[vad]

Front pic

[vad]

topless side

[jeroen]

Hi all

Thorbob nice too see your car again.

I really enjoyed reading your project from start on,and It's even nicer too see the result.

Can't wait too see some action pictures/video's

P.S the only thing I do mis is a nice K&N filter ;)

Just kindin,I do not have too say that,too one of the biggest and most creative rc freak out there!


Vad

I really like the wide looking Bergonzoni rally body,were can I buy one?

What engine are you running?

I'm still looking for a nice engine for my lm,maybe I'll give the RB WS7-2 a change or If I do not have enough cash I'll try the OFNA Picco .26

[vad]

Jereon,
I got the Bergonzoni body from a distibutor of Bergonzoni in Orlando, Florida. I didnt realize it, but OFNA makes the same Celica body from the looks of it might even be the same, just a different company name. Same manufuature, different seller.

[hung_kuen]

my new evo body:D

[jeroen]

Looks tricky

Nice dremel

How's the engine doing? still trouble's

[hung_kuen]

some more..

[hung_kuen]

my mill.. that i am still trying to tune the right way.. doesn`t now anybody thats into rc, it`s not so big over here.
so that makes me all alone with my bad tuning skill

I get the car started and the idle is good.
once it heats up it idles so mutch that it races around at 3 miles an hour so the only way i can get it to stand still is to aply full breaks.
So when i aply full breaks to adjust it always stalls weary fast.
The linking is set right and the throttel screw is set so the carburator gap is less then 1mm but that doesnt help.
And when the car stalls is it weary hard to get it started again just like its been over heated but the high speed needle is rich fore sure i have a good smoke trail and it bludders when i pull the throttel all the way.
and the reason i havent adjusted the high speed needle is because i got an cvec and is suposed to adjust the low speed first witch is dificult when you cant stop the car.
thanks fore any reply.

The good thing about this is that i learn alot..
and by the way i am sooooo hooked now that i have sold my mountain bike and dialled in an order at tower fore a mad force rcx version

Thor-

good to see a fellow Norwegian on the forum..
soo nice work on the car i love the supreza body i am a big fan myself

[vad]

Hung_Kuen,
Try a few things increase the length of your fuel like coming out of the fuel tank to motor. Clean the fuel filter or get the Kyosho large capacity fuel filter. Try a different pipe, the Cvec has too many adjustments and can make it difficult to tune motors.

[Jimmy33]

Yea - finally got the cranck on my OS engine cut so I can start fitting it in - all I need now is a new pilot shaft for my 2 speed - does anybody have a part number? :rolleyes: :D

[jeroen]

Yep

I have two of them :D

Partnumber (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=gt20&FVPROFIL=++) GT-20

[jeroen]

Oeps

My first double post/reply over here :p

[speedydave]

Hey guys. Haven't posted here in about 10 pages. :p

My Landmax has pretty much been sitting since I last posted, so maybe it's time I spice it up a little bit. What all will I need to make the Landmax 2 handle some serious power(was thinking about getting an Orion Wasp .26 :D ), and to convert the Landmax to 1/8 size rims(17mm hexes) without ovaling out the pin holes? I really like the look of John's Subaru with those Medial Pro rims! :) Also, where are you guys finding the Evo VIII body? Thanks!

[vad]

Speedydave,
Look at the OFNA 17mm Hub conversions, part number 86000, i have one set and work good on rear of my LM2.

[speedydave]

Are they a direct fit? I can't find a match for that on Tower, where'd you get yours? Thanks.

[vad]

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_38_236&products_id=4129&osCsid=7efe9cde9bbe8b2a3541311983c5b2e2

Try ace hardware hobbies if that doesnt work, try ultimate hobbies in California, and if that doesnt work call OFNA directly and see if you can order direct.

[vad]

Rally conversion for 7.5 more pics

http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/Album.asp?s=cano&a=1359714&u=1762220

[speedydave]

Well guys, guess what I found in my spares box tonight? Six(yes, 6) aluminum 17mm hex adaptors from my Muge MBX-4XR Works! :D I pulled the LM2 out of its box and took a wheel off, and they do in fact fit(almost). The mounting hole is just barely too far outward on the Mugens, so I guess I'll be ovaling the axles. What did you guys use to/how did you oval out the hole for the pin in the axle? Also, what all will I need to mount the Wasp .26 in the car? I have a couple spare Mugen MBX4 XR flywheels, will that work, or is the diameter too large/small? Also, what gearing should I probably run with the .26 and the Medial Pro tires, and what will I need for the tranny to hold up to the power of the .26? One last question, do I absolutely need a Picco header for the Orion/Picco .26, or can I use my spare Dynamite inline exhaust(fit my RB fine, so I figure it'll be a little big for the Picco) on the .26? Thanks! :D

[hung_kuen]

hey ya`ll

today i finally got my tuning right:D :D
i had to go 1.5 turns richer on both needles from the manual break in setting:confused:
now it runs slightly on the rich side and performs well..
now i finally can sleep at night..

does any body have a good solution on what to pain your rims with that will take some serious smoking?

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by hung_kuen
does any body have a good solution on what to pain your rims with that will take some serious smoking?

Yep - nothing.
Leave them bare, or live with the totally ugly look you get when the paint fades, cracks flakes and chips. Trust me, having a nice clean set of whites will ALWAYS look better.

If you want colour, I think gunmetal (coloured) rims look the best. Just a personal thing. And because the plastic is actually that colour you get none of the sad side effects of painting them.

[vad]

Nothing looks better than a set of Black rims, give the car an aggressive look. Use Rite Dye and boil the tires any color you want.

[hung_kuen]

I set my car up fore rally action again yesterdayand i almost had forgot how fun it is..
I found the coolest jump at a highschool near by,its an steep up hill to an flat landing but the topp on the hill had a weary nice bump that made the car lay perfect in the air i`ll see if i can get some clips of it.
I lost one of mine dog bones though:mad:

If i`m going to relube my bearings is it ok to use after run oil or should i use some wd40 i also have some teflon-plus (its an dry bicycle lubricant)

[belgravekm]

i just mounted my 8\s start engine in my land max1 using ofna mounts.i have in a two speed,and when i hold the car push it backwards and lift it i get a loud clicking sound but the clutchbell
sins freely.when i do the same going foward the clutchbell doesn't spin so freely but i don't have that sound.could it be that the engine sits too low to the chasis i could make a plate to fix this.i,m too scare to start the engine and run the car with this loud noise.
please advice...

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by hung_kuen
If i`m going to relube my bearings is it ok to use after run oil or should i use some wd40 i also have some teflon-plus (its an dry bicycle lubricant)

Definately do not use either of those products.
If you haven't already gone ahead and done it, I suggest you dont touch those bearings, and just leave them alone. Usually what happens is, while you are dissassembling the bearing, you get at least a few specs of dirt brushed/pushed in... once that has happened, thats it, your bearing is gritty (aka screwed).

If you absolutely have to, be very careful and use proper quality lube suitable for bearings (grease is better..). I've been a year on my original kyosho shielded bearings and so far so good.

If they are spinning smoothly, dont touch them, leave them as is. If they are feeling rough and gritty, the damage is already done. A spec of dirt in a bearing will move around and score every single nice polished surface internally. So if that has happened to any bearing, dont bother rebuilding, get a new one. Sealed ones might be a better idea too.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

cool... I bought me a new tarmac body that I found in the basement of an LHS. I love this body! the fat tall fenders make it posible to tuck the wheels in and not worry aobut the tires rubbing on the body. deffinetely a great tarmac body.. too bad they've been discontinued. I'll have some pics tomorow in the sun.

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_57.jpg

[jeroen]

Verry nice body,it almoast looks like the real thing

Although the rims look kinda big.

[hung_kuen]

wery nice work man.. so realistic....

[hung_kuen]

I need to get me an bumper does anybody know one that fits directly in to the lm?

[vad]

Hung Kuen,
There is a bumper for the Landmax (1) is made by kyosho, if you cant find it look into the ofna bumper for the GTR car. You can always cut and modify a bumper. I made 2 bumpers from the bergonzoni bumpers and have one on the LM2 and one on the Rally car.

[Redfox]

Wow, things are certainly moving along here!! I haven't run my LM in ages... anyone want it?! Hehehe... I'm running my Storm Pro... great fun... once i get a better engine for it, i'll chuck my TTR21 into the LM and take it for a spin :D

[Redfox]

Check out this beautiful thing!! Old kyosho 1/8 Porsche 959...

Ebay Porsche Link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3143334059)

[hung_kuen]

Thanks fore the tip vad i`ll chech into it when i finish my mad force rcx edition,i got it yesterday.
gues i`ll have to try that 3 speed in my lm :D

Nice porche redfox

[jeroen]

Verry nice

Not too expensive yet

Good too hear you have the MF RCX hung kuen

Now we have the some combo :D

[Redfox]

Hey fellas, i was in a hobby shop near my uni yesterday, and i was going through the bargain box, when i came across a brand new in bag Volvo Landmax Body.. you know the one that tower used to sell?? Anywayz, the only prob was that the decals had been removed from the bag. However the body is in brand new condition, and i thought i'd tell u guys just in case someone really wants one. I could buy it for you and ship it over...

If you want it, email me, or PM me.

Chris :D

[vad]

Can someone give me the part number or link to the Kyosho clutch set for 2 speed transmission, the part number in the instruction is

GT24,

Ofna calls it the clutch cam, however, I can not find the part on tower hobbies website, is there a kyohso part number for this item.

[Jay_esS]

vad - Ripmax, the UK importer for Kyosho give GT24 as the part number for "CLUTCH PARTS FOR GT30" (£12.99) so there may not be another part number.
Also, if you haven't already, you should look at this for reference http://***********/gp20/GP-20-parts.txt - Unfortunatley no part number here either even though the parts next to it do. Your LHS should be able to get this just quoteing GT24 as the part number

[hung_kuen]

They have problems with the 2 speed parts,my lhs orderd the collar(thats the part you remove when you adjust the shifting)
and they got the wrong parts.
They have now faxed the manuals with the parts number to their kyosho guy to solve the problem.
It might bee that some of the parts number in the 2 speed manual doesn`t exist or are wrong..
Anyway that goes fore the collar i realy dont know about the other part though...

[vad]

What is the part number of the Collor, good to have an extra one of those.

[hung_kuen]

I dont know if my lhs got the nr yet but im going over there in my lunch hour to buy some screws so ill chech and post as soon as i get it..

[hung_kuen]

My lhs hasn`t gotten an answer yet i`ll post as soon as i get it

[Unobjectionable]

i don't know the number for that collar piece either, is it not referenced in the GTW-20 instructions?

vad- i don't think tower carries the GT-24 hub/shift mechanism piece separately (although they really should). the same part is used in the GT-30 two speed (for LM1) and i have a couple extra of those if you really need the GT-24 part from one of them...alternatively, there is a similar part for the mad force (which uses some of the GTW-20 parts as its first and second gear) that would probably work, downside is it costs $19 and has a oneway bearing in it that would be completely unecessary in the LM2, part number MA006 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJT9&P=Z), not sure if it would fit though

p.s. here is the link for tower's GTW-20 parts breakdown, the collar may be included with one of those parts, (maybe the shaft set)...the MP-5/6 brake cam you mentioned on another board is listed there also (in IF-28)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=KYOC6516&P=Z

[l0freq]

hi all... just finally posting for the first time - yet another 'new' face to the board :D been lurking since the beginning of the year and read all the adventures... hehe.

RedFox im totally interested in the volvo body, so pls check your PM! thanks man...

hello to everyone else and happy landmaxin :D i drive mine around purely for drifting/powersliding around the place so breaking things is the name of the game, heh. the landmax is marvellous fun!

heres a pic of when i first started over a year ago heh..... gosh.
http://lofreq.defy.net.nz/pics/temp/super8-firstrun06.jpg


here it is a million repairs and crashes later...
http://www.lol.co.nz/purvin/lofreq/pics/super8/021202%20-%20super8%20respray%2003.jpg

http://www.lol.co.nz/purvin/lofreq/pics/super8/030125%20-%20super8%20new%20chassis%20protector%2002.jpg

more mayhem here (http://www.lol.co.nz/purvin/lofreq/pics/super8/) :D

[vad]

The shaft set does not include the clutch cam, the shaft set is the solid center shaft and the drive cup.

[Unobjectionable]

hi l0, welcome to the thread/forum...glad to hear you are having fun with your LM1...i get a 403.6 error (ip address rejected) when i try to access your site though, maybe they are blocking non-kiwi IPs? ehehe...the last two pics are not working for me either

vad - i realize the GT-24 is a separate part (#14 in the diagram below), as i said, the LM1 two speed uses the same piece...i was talking about that little collar (part 9 in the diagram i guess) that you and hung were discussing, does it not have a part number in the GTW-20 instructions?

http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW20-2.jpg

[vad]

unobjectionable,
yes, I was trying to find a part number on both items, the collar is listed in the instructions, however, I cant find the part through towerhobbies, might have to give them a call and speak to Hobby People, I had to order an item for a futaba 3pj through them.

[jeroen]

10freq

I was looking at your weblink

And i found a video between al the pictures(little bit hidden)

So I thought I'll post a direct link of it.(because there aren't too many video's of the lm)

10freq landmax drifting video (http://www.lol.co.nz/purvin/lofreq/pics/super8/021103%20-%20rc%20dirt%20drifting.avi)

I really loves it,espacially the second part of the video

[hung_kuen]

You are at the right place 10freq ... welcome

my lhs still haven`t gotten an answer from their kyosho contact about the collar....
might get it tomorrow tough,i`ll post soon as i get it

[Unobjectionable]

site is working fine for me now l0, some funny stuff on there too...the rice folder made me giggle, so did the other LM movies that jeroen didn't find...and you have certainly gotten your moneys worth out of that poor subaru body...ehehe

as far as the GTW-20 stuff goes, i did notice that tower has the wrong bell listed also (13/16 instead of 14/17), might be worth contacting GP (at carsupport@greatplanes.com i think) for a breakdown of the actual KYOC part numbers specific to the GTW-20, and to let them know they need to get that straight...btw, i would love a scan of the GTW-20 instructions for *********** if anybody gets ambitious (hint hint)

on a semi-related note, i was checking around on the kyosho.co.jp site and found they finally updated the LM2 option parts section, nothing terribly new or exciting except a new clutch bell (GTW-26) that may have some potential as it uses screw-on teeth...the strange part here is that it only has 4 screw-on gears available (14 and 15 low, and 18 and 19 high) and thus ONE possible gearing combination (15/18), so i dunno what good the 14 and 19 tooth gears are, since you would need a 14/17 (stock GTW-20 bell) or 16/19 combo to be able to actually use them with either the GT-30 or GTW-20 two speeds...maybe i am missing something, but i guess we will find out sooner or later, it would be awesome if the 39666 superten teeth fit it, and would have saved me some time and trouble...

anyway, heres the link for anyone interested

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/rc_model/touring_rally/supereight_gp20/landmax2_option/landmax2_option-e.html

[Sebastiano]

Hello all,
I can't believe I finally found a good LM forum.
I finally made up my mind and decide to get an LM2 ;) (I almost got a GTP...... :o ).
Can you please let me know what are the most important Hop ups to add while building it. I read that the diffs are fine but it's better to add additional spider gears.
I am mainly looking for durability and endurance now...then speed later down the road...
I would like to order the kit and all additional parts together, so I would greatly appreciate it if you guys could please let me know what are the part numbers for the critical hop ups?

Thank you

[l0freq]

hey guys... hehe. glad u found someof those vids. despite all the problems ive had with the LM i cant deny the sheer fun i get after some mad sideways action hehe

i apologise for the unreliability of the server i was using. im trying to reorganise all my photos, and videos, and upload them all properly to a new site.... when this is done i'll post it again.

i havent heard back from redfox about the volvo shell... dang. theres next to NO support here in new zealand for the landmax's, i seem to have to order all my parts from tower hobbies. anyone got a relatively reasonable condition LM shell they might want to sell?


and, something ive been wanting to ask for ages. my main problem with the car now is its appetite for tyres. ive had a shocking time with tyres (you'll see in the pics to come) and ive been desperately looking for alternatives. all thru the posts so far i hear things like Proline and MedialPro and whatnot, but search as i might i can never seem to find definitive info on them. i have not found a single brand of tyre other than kyosho. to fit the stock kyosho rims. the LM rims are 2.5", most tyres are like 2.2" internal diameter, and god knows if the width is right. i dont know if 2.2" tyres can be made to 'stretch' reliably to fit the LM rim

then again, maybe there are other rims out there that will fit the 2.2" tyre, AND fit over the hub knuckles of the LM without contact, AND be either 19mm hex or 17mm (using the OFNA hex adapters)

im feeling dizzy already. i just want to find a cheap source of tyres that will fit the LM rims, OR a cheap source of rims AND tyres, that will fit altogether. appearance doesnt matter, it just needs to 1) fit 2) be as cheap as possible! all i do is basically set the car up for drift/powersliding so i need the hardest compound tyre thats cheaply available.

anyone? hehehe *scans the room for any hands up*


anyway, any help/comments appreciated. to all others here, keep up the good work and keep having fun with your projects, i am very interested in following up on you guys' progress!

cheers

-nige


ps: my alias is supposed to be just 'lofreq' (low frequency) but someone had already taken that! so i had to put a zero instead of the 'o'. cus u guys are calling me 10 now, its weird! haha

[l0freq]

oh yeah, jeroen - that was a fun day that video was taken. me and a fellow friend both got LM's at the same time and we drive em out mostly together. the first car was me filming him..... then mine was the second car, with him filming. it was pulling some great 4 wheel drifts, and that was with the 2speed in (acck in the dirt i know!! but i dontcare bout that sorta thing!!!) and slicks on front! haha. was very cool

btw, my friend (the first car) is madaz (on this forum)'s brother... the one who is building the all-metal bodyshell for his LM. his project has taken a number of turns... he abandoned the datsun styled body, and decided on a 60s impala. massively long and wide! this resulted in a custom 6" (i think) chassis extension and custom rear driveshaft... it worked too! but then he bought an Inferno 7.5, and looks like he will modify that and return the LM to stock... pretty cool hehe.

when we get back to driving again i will take more updated pics :D

[Spellspt]

http://www.grpgandini.com
M01 RALLY
M02 BELT

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html Knuckles 1:8 (not a good choice, these would be classed as mainly off road)

http://www.medialpro.com/english/produits/pneus/8rally.htm

www.duratrax.com
Street Trac 1/8 Tire

Now, I didn't say they would fit on Kyosho Rims' but these are ALL 1/8 Rally tyres.

[Unobjectionable]

sorry for the slow reply

sebastiano - to upgrade your LM2 diffs you will need one pack of the BS-107 shafts (KYOC2335) and two packs of the IF-102 7.5 diff gears (KYOC3310)...some other suggestions might be the pretty blue aluminum radio tray posts (KYOC5066) to replace the plastic stock pieces and help stiffen up the whole chassis, and a proper turnbuckle setup to replace the cheesy music wire steering (the lunsford 1.5" turnbuckles are a decent match with the kyosho 5.8mm ball/ballend parts or any of the 4-40 stuff from rpm, ae etc etc)...and, as always, a THROTTLE RETURN SPRING is highly recommended (available at your local hardware store for a dollar or so)

l00lo - most any 2.2" tire will fit the LM rims as long as they are not too wide (meaning buggy rears and not truck rears), the proline 1102s (http://***********/gp20/misc/PRO1102.jpg) are a pretty nice fit but they are way softer and stickier than the kyosho tires...i can't think of any crappier, harder tires then the kyoshos offhand...some of the hpi "super" size tires might be worth checking out, but they are generally not much cheaper than the cooler looking (and probably longer lasting) kyosho GT-39 street tires (KYOC6212)

[Sebastiano]

Thanks for the reply Unobjectionable

It does not sound like an expensive upgrade...I like that.. :D

[Jimmy33]

hi guys long time no chat - gues why - WORk :D

Well I seem to be on top of it again and so back to the landmax - running wonduerfully the only problem I have is the fly wheel connection on the OS engine - how do I make it stay tight all the time as it keeps comming loose?

Also have kyosho relaese ANY new bodies yet?

Keeep racing!

Jimbo! :cool:

[vad]

Jimmy,
Tighten the flywheel nut down more or you can use locktite, I dont recommend the locktite, but if you have no other options then that will have to do sometimes.

[FunkyLarma]

First off a little history, I started messing about with electric cars a while back, then I decided to go nitro. I purchased a Landmax (Think it is a version 1)Toyota. I ran it in, well went by the instructions and it seamed to be problematic so I tucked it away and it was lost. About 3 years later I find the car! Not wanting to give up I tried firing it up and it now seams to work ok. In the last few days I have stripped it down, cleaned it up and removed layers of dust and crud. It was a totally stock machine, but I have now sealed the diffs and ballraced the axles. It will start after a full pulls on the starter but when running it seams to put out a lot of blue smoke, and sometimes sounds a bit 'blogged' is this a sign of too rich?
Hope to post on here more if I can get the nitro back into my system!

[Madaz]

hi all. Im reunited with my LM in NZ at last. It survived the boat trip in the container and ive been driving with my brother and lofreq a few times already....3 landmax's in the dirt is great fun :)

funkylama, spluttering engine and lots of smoke sounds like your car is running rich, use small adjustments you dont want to run it lean.

John, that alfa shell looks very smart. the medial pro wheels suit a road car paint job.
I have fitted new kyosho rally tyres to 4 lancia rear wheels (deep dish offset) on the front and rear to increase the track for offroad driving. they work well on gravel.

heres a pic after we finished racing.

[FunkyLarma]

Cheers Madaz, thought this might be the case. Was raining last night so not able to try this tuning 'thing' instead sat there messing about with the lm, I will try and post some photos soon. Just looking at your pic Madaz, how do you set about cleaning a car when its in that state? What do you do to ensure everything stills works and will last?

[virus]

Hi there can anyone tell me how you can spot the difference between 1 and 2. I have the box, manual, engine manual and car.
I purchased a Landmax 2 from someone on ebay, but i'm suspicious it might be a version 1.
The box, car manual does not refer it to being a Landmax2, the engine has GS21 stamped on it, but the engine manual is GS21R.
Any help will be appriciated
thanks

[FunkyLarma]

I think I am right in saying the best way to spot the difference is in the radio tray (well it is for me) the lm1 has a longer radio tray with a big pink bag/cover for the radio gear. The lm2 has a shorter radio tray with a black plastic box for the radio gear.
There are other differences, well lots of them, the lm1 has different size shocks on the front and rear, the lm2 have the same size all round. The body mounts are also different, check out some pictures on this forum to see what I mean.
Hope this helps.

[hung_kuen]

Virus-my box says landmax2 so does my manual..

I am one my way to pick up my new chassie plate i will soon post some pics

Madaz- looks like you have done some serious racing:D nice

[vad]

Virus,
Can you post a link to the auction or your user name on the E (bay) so we can see pics if there are any.

[FunkyLarma]

Here are photos of my lm1
Top View (http://www.boardmyster.com/temp/rc/lm001.JPG) Side View (http://www.boardmyster.com/temp/rc/lm002.JPG) sorry they are a bit big, when I'm back in a pc frame of mind I will sort em out!

[SixVi6-Camaro]

virus.. check these pics of my landmax 2.

The box..
http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_01.jpg

here is a top view of my LMS when it was stock. This pic has the side guards removed.
http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_33.jpg

check the shape of the front brace. On the LM2 its a gold colored Y kind of shaped front brace. LM1's have a triangle shape front brace that is normally blue.

[hung_kuen]

Here is my new chassie plate

[hung_kuen]

one more... its starting to look good but i still need aluminium servo tray posts and a blue tray

[jeroen]

Virus

You're the proud owner of a landmax1

Too bad that the guy on ebay said it was a landmax 2.

But the landmax 1 will do the job also(altough the engine sucks,and the shocks too)

hung_kuen

I like you're chassis plate

What happend with the stock one?

how's the madforce doing(madforce.net madforce forum is a little bit borring at the moment)

The summer is over,so rain is coming over here.
Gotta make all my electric stuff waterproof again

[FunkyLarma]

hung_kuen that is one nice chassis, is that a kyosho part? also I notice a kick-up on the front, is that just that chassis or is the lm2 like that standard?

[hung_kuen]

FunkyLarma- there is a kick up on the stock one to

i bent the stock one badly in a jump... i managed to bend it back but then i saw the blue one in my lhs.. no my cvec fits perfect

jeroen-my mf is fine,i have just built a jump in our garden, the mf is a wery easy truck to jump... a litle nose high somethimes but with a litle tapp on the brake it lands one all four
pics are coming, i am just waiting fore the massive raining to stop so the mf doesnt make mud of the lawn

[virus]

ks for your help guys, it is a Landmax 1, anyway as this is my first nitro car, i'm pretty happy with learning about them with it.

I have a little problem, the chap who i purchased it from installed a 3 peice clutch with a purple colored flywheel, i think it engages slowly because it's real slow and then gradually builds up speed.

Now someone else in another forum suggested lossen the clutch spring, as the Landmax came part assembled, i havn't a clue as to how to take the clutch apart.

Is it possible to just stretch the spring a little, once i have it apart?
thanks

[virus]

And how do i take the clutch apart?

[FunkyLarma]

Undo the screw at the end of the pilot shaft on the clutch bell.
Well thats how I did the stock clutch cant tell if it would be the same for your clutch, guess it would. It might be that the clutch is slipping, if you can post some pictures of your clutch assembly I'm sure some one can help.

[Sebastiano]

Here is a link to another guy trying to sell his Landmax 1 as a Landmax 2 on ebay.... Be aware

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3147392216&category=49213

[jjang124]

can some1 please convince me to buy Landmax 2 instead of Savage SS???? i currently own HPI Micro rs4 and HPI Rs4 3 SS

Thanx

[vad]

If you had an option of getting a Savage or LM2, go Savage all the way and dont look back. There is nothing like a MT ripping it up in the open field and from the guys at the local race track they say the MT is almost fully ready to go and i can tell you one thing the MT sure can take a beatting.

[FunkyLarma]

I have been thinking about getting a Savage SS, if only they had stock!

[FunkyLarma]

Last night I took my lm out to do some tarmac running and had by far the best run ever with it. I am now starting to tune the engine and get the most out of it. It was running fine with trails of smoke but that lovely sound, not wanting to stop I refilled whilst still running. I also sat there and rolled a tab and did something else and the lm kept on ticking over! But when I went to pull away it was really coughing and sounded flooded. It cleared after a quick blip and went on to power slide heaven!
Is this is a sign of being too rich on the low end needle? Or is it just sitting idle too long will build up fuel in the crankcase?

[Jimmy33]

i think it is just the fact that you let it sit for too long - but I might be wrong. However with my GS21 i believe it was the same. :D

[Casey]

Hey all, I've got a couple questions on Landmax F-150 wheels & tires for a truck project I'm gonna be starting soon.

Are the stock F-150 wheels for 17mm hubs?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXMU46&P=V


Will 1/8 buggy tires fit on the stock wheels?


I'm planning on building my own generic Landmax ST using an 1/8 buggy and a DuraTrax Nitro Demon ST body($20 vs. $70 for Landmax F-150 body).

[Unobjectionable]

casey, the landmax wheels all use 19mm hubs and fit tires that are smaller than ordinary buggy size tires. your best bet there would be the KYOC6229/GT-49 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=KYOC6229&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go) tires (though you could use any of the landmax tires)...depending on which buggy you are using, you might need to modify the steering knuckles a little so the steering arm part does not hit/rub the rims...sounds like a cool project...

larma and virus, welcome to the thread/forum...glad to hear you are each having fun with your cars...

virus - did you get the clutchbell off? we can probably be more help if you give more details, might just be a tuning issue

and larma, i agree with jimmy, sounds like the engine is just "loading up" like it should, nothing to worry about as long as it clears out with a little blip

hung kuen - your LM2 is looking sweet, i bet it is fun to drive with that engine and the 2 speed...

[hung_kuen]

Unobjectionable- its loads of fun and my tuning skills are better now so no it`s more driving and less tuning:D

[virus]

I've took it all apart and gave it a good clean, the clutch looks like it's been fitted recently, so i gave the CB a bit of a clean, are you suppose to oil the clutch bearing? With hi performance oil? And should you becareful not oil too much just in case it gets to the clutch? Will castrol GTX do?

I want to upgrade the wheels on my LM, will the LM2 wheels fit?
Them muliti spoke look kinda nice, but Kyosho prices are not.
Are there any other manufacturer's wheeels that will fit the LM?
thanks

[Madaz]

Virus, for onroad, medial pro tarmacII rims and tyres will fit just fine, they are made with 19 mm hex but can be hard to find.. apart from that it is just the kyosho wheels you can choose from (Yes the landmax2 wheels will fit a landmax1). Some tyres made for 2.2 inch rims will stretch onto the landmax rims, (such as proline road hawks i think)
This thread is full of tyre questions and not too many solutions.

here is a pic from yesterdays drive.

[virus]

Not enough solutions eh? I have a solution that gets you quality aluminium shocks at half of Kyosho's price.
Fronts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=&I=LXCAL3
Rears:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCAL4&P=7

hope this is helpful to those that don't already know

[jeroen]

Nice picture madaz

Virus I think those shocks will just do fine,only have too polish them:D

Since I was upgrading my landmax last year,I was wanted the carbon shockstays from kyosho,but I was only getting the front shockstay,cause kyosho discontiued the rear carbon shockstay:(

But I have found another company that makes them,for only half the price!

They sell good quality carbon fiber stuff for all kind of rc car brands.

I ordered the rearshockstay for only $20 and the front body mountstat and the radio plate.

They also make the rearguards out of carbon,just like thorbobs car has them

Fibre-lite (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/kyosho1.html)

They are located in England and they accept VISA and MASTERCARD.
They also are cheap with shipping all over the world

[jeroen]

Oeps could not edit the earlier post.

1 question

Can I use the upper plate's of the MP-5 on my landmax 1

http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/landmax/pictures/upper%20plate%20set%20MP-5.gif

Boocake I think you might know the answer for this.

[LandmaxRacing]

Hello,
I have a Landmax 1, with the stock gs21 engine, and lately I've been going through spur gears everytime I run it, and the guys at the hobby shop are not very helpful, I know that the motor has been moving around, and no matter how much I tighten the motor mount screws it always strips the plastic gear, does anyone know If there is a Steel spur gear available for this car? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

-Brett

[Unobjectionable]

jeroen - i don't think the MP-5 parts will work...BUT they do actually have the correct inferno/LM1 parts available, they just list them on the wrong page, here (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/kyinf10.html)...be sure to post some pics when you get the parts, i want to have a look...


brett - there is a steel spur gear available for your LM1, but you will need a few other parts to be able to use it...have you tried using some loctite or lock washers under the engine mounting screws? even a steel spur will get chewed up if the engine is moving around...

parts you will need to run steel spur on the LM1:

KYOC4559 BSW-19 Steel spur gear, Burns/Inferno 53 tooth
and
KYOC2808 BSW-34 Adjustable center differential (aluminum spur gear mount)

you will also need a decent hardened clutchbell, as the stock one will get torn up by the steel spur in about one tank

KYOC4207 BSW-70 Clutch bell 15 tooth, uses 5x10mm bearings
KYOC2966 BSW-62 Clutch bell 16 tooth, uses 5x10mm bearings
or
K8015 15 tooth clutch bell, K Factory, uses 5x10mm bearings
K8016 16 tooth clutch bell, K Factory, uses 5x10mm bearings

[LandmaxRacing]

Thanks for all your help! I appreciate it.

-Brett

[jeroen]

Unobjectionable

Thanks for the quick reply

Yes I aslo saw that tell sell they right mounts,but the MP-5 once look cooler too me.

I could ask fiber lite too checkl if the both parts are the same in size.

Other wise I do not know If I will buy the landmax1 mounts,maybe I polish the stock blue once's.

P.S still looking for a nice high rpm engine with pullstart for around $130 any tips?

Unobjectionable: can you snet me your current email adres by PM too me.
I want too ask you something that has nothing too so with this landmax forum

[LandmaxRacing]

Look at O.S

[virus]

Today was the first day i had my Landmax out properlly, wow what a beast!!! Really fast!! Can't wait to get 2 speed and uprated engine, although i don't need these just yet because this is my first nitro car.
Was running real sweet until after about 20 mins, engine spins but no movement, then looked into the car, the Spur gear was stripped clean!
What's caused this, i have taken the center diff out fopr cleaning and the engine, i suspect is my fault:-(
But what did i do wrong, inncorrect mesh? Too tight or too loose?
I don't know, can anyone help?
thanks

[hung_kuen]

Virus- could bee both use a paper sheet to get the perfect mesh..

[jeroen]

Virus

Most of the time,ist because of a too loose mesh,cause the engine did came loose.

I Have driven a few rc cars,but never stripped 1 spurgear.
Maybe because I also did own kyosho cars,and they have stron spurgears.

Just like Hung_Kuen said,use a piece of paper too insure you got the right line up,and bolt up that engine with locktite and lots of power.

[LandmaxRacing]

Virus, It happens to my Landmax constantly, try using some locktight on the motor mount screw as well as washers.

-Brett

[LandmaxRacing]

Hello, I am purchasing a 53 tooth steel spur gear for my LM1, what is the ratio for the clutch bell? Thanks.

-Brett

[ZzS]

Hi for a long time!

I have been quite busy with my military service but my brother has been working on updating our rc website. It’s still at its old address at www.linnunrata.net/~vsaari. Many new things have been added including i.e. wholly a new car and a body for Landmax. Even SIX videos have also been added into Videos section. We hope you enjoy visiting at our site. Have fun!

- ZzS

[jeroen]

Nice update
I like the F-150 body on the landmax

Did you make the chassis and A arms your own?
Nice work if so.

Cool new video's I like the skatepark action(altough I do miss some sound,I just put on a own mp3 with winamp:D)

But the link was not working,because of one dot at the end of the link

This one is working:http://www.linnunrata.net/~vsaari/

[hung_kuen]

Nice clips and site:D
I think ill have to find my self a skate park as well..

[Jimmy33]

yay finally ordered a new body another truck body!
Hehe
This is going to be one off road truck with a difference!
I will post pictures when it is done :D

P.S. any idea to how to make a decent rear spoiler?! :confused:

thanx!

[vad]

Looking for a 44T steel spur gear to fit the mp-7.5 center diff gear. Anyone know if there is a such item on the market.

[virus]

Sorry to ask again, but don't fancy trawling through each post:
I want a new engine, probably out of:
OS 21 rgpx, ofna hyper 21 8 port or ho bao 21 turbo
are the ho bao and ofna the same engines?

what else would i need? I have a 3 piece clutch already
what do i lookout for? SG or Pilot shaft?
bearing in mind that i'll be getting a 2 speed later on
thanks

[vad]

[hung_kuen]

Virus- If you go with the pilot shaft you can attach the 2-speed without any extra parts.
The sg shaft needs an extensione you can use these parts from the mad force LXCJX0 Kyosho Bell Guide P Shaft.
hope this helps

[ZzS]

Originally posted by jeroen
Nice update
I like the F-150 body on the landmax

Did you make the chassis and A arms your own?
Nice work if so.

Cool new video's I like the skatepark action(altough I do miss some sound,I just put on a own mp3 with winamp:D)

But the link was not working,because of one dot at the end of the link

This one is working:http://www.linnunrata.net/~vsaari/
Thanks! And good that you noticed that extra dot in the link and fixed it. I was having a little hurry writing my message so I didn't have time to test it.

I bought that F-150 body only for 25 Euros (23$) as new and cutted and painted it with my brother to make it look onroad racer. And we are very satisfied with that result.

Yes, I made all those aluminum parts about a year ago to make my car stronger and cool looking.

And thanks also to hung_kuen for feedback!

[virus]

Thanks Hung, si the GS21 pilot or SG? What about the hyper 21 8 port? Sorry i only got into nitro a few weeks ago.
Anyone have any opinions on the Hyper?
thansk

[jeroen]

Check all those good reviews (http://www.nitroreview.com/compare/notoc/enginedetails.cfm?engineid=263)

Found more reviews over:Here (http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_reviews.php?cPath=108_112_114&products_id=3913&osCsid=bdba4e984dfda5a81c7b07a51209ae8f)

Not one bad review :D

If I can get one from ebay for around $110 I buy one myself for the landmax(high rpm I'm looking for,and good power)

[Redfox]

Hey guys, where did the Landmax V1.0 thread go?? :(

[Jay_esS]

Redfox
v1.0 is near the bottom of the Kyosho table.- click on Kyosho link at the very top of this page

[Madaz]

virus, i have a 4 port hyper21 in my LM1 and have to say it is a great improvement over the standard GS21. it revs alot higher and definately has more POWER!! :cool: i got it because it was the cheapest .21 i could find in the UK.

I had a few troubles after the break in trying to tune it and i currently have a broken pull start on mine because they break often and im sick of replacing them. (i have had brand new PS's break after only about 2 tanks!!!!!) But now i use a starterbox and it starts very quickly and easily.

I have lost count of how much fuel i have used.. (probly about 3 gallons thru it so far) but it still has alot of compression. There is a slight leak of fuel/oil from the front bearing but this is minimal and doesnt concern me.

If u buy a 4 port engine.... (cheaper) you can fit the 8port sleeve and piston later if u need to rebuild it. this is what i plan to do when mine wears out.

Basically i would say a pretty good engine. however with the tuning troubles i had initially i was concerned i had wasted my money. Also ViSix6camaro had some problems with his. If you can afford OS then they do have a reputation for reliability but i cant speak from experience.

hope this doesnt make your desicion any more confusing, i know it is difficult deciding which type of motor to spend your money on!!!!!!

[Blaster]

I recently bought a Landmax2 with Subaru body, after read your forum.

I changed lots of parts, including engine (OS .21 VZ-P), transmission (now a 2 speed) and the body (now a Nissan Skyline). I use the car mostly on my tarmac track or (empty) parking lots - I mean only on-road. Now I need your help:

1) The engine does not have a linear idle rotation. It varies significantly from full tank to almost empty tank. Any idea about how to minimize this problem?

2) The shocks are still the originals, with new springs. Do you know any Kyosho shock (or other manufacturer) that fits in this car and has better performance? The Turbo versions are bigger and doest not fit the car. If i change the original Shock Stay to Inferno Buggy ones I will loose the body mount on the rear of the car...
:confused:

[hung_kuen]

Blaster- I use turbo shocks on mine... fits fine.
linear idle rotation... could you explaine that please, maybe i learn something




rear mount with turbo shocks

[Blaster]

Hey hung_kuen.

Thanks for the photo. How do I place photos here? After see your car I am ready to change from stock to turbo shocks. How does it perform? Do you use same size (medium I guess?) front and rear?

I changed the stock .21 engine to make a hot rod. Don't get me wrong, the stock engine is fully capable of giving fun. As for linear performance... The new engine starts easily, runs fine but on negative side when the tanks becomes empty the engine rotation increases. The car behavior changes form what I have set up. I have a Kyosho FW-04 with a O.S .21 engine and it has the same problem. If the cars stays on the ground, stopped and the engine running with tank almost empty I can smell the clutch "melting".

What is your suggestion?

[jeroen]

Blaster

It's easy too post a photo,when you reply there is a part that says Attach file,now you can select a photo from you're comp,just make sure the size/file isn't too big.

I think you are running your engine's a little bit too lean,I also had this problem sometimes,and when I give it some more fuel it's gone.

The blue medium turbo shocks are nice,but if you do have the money for them,I would go for the little bit more expensive polished teflon 3,5mm shaft shocks from the Kanai 2.

These (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXY0&P=7)

these springs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXT924&P=V)

It's expensive,but it is the best from kyosho.

And the price difference between the blue and alu once is not that big,but the performance of the alu once better,and so is the looks(maybe you like the blue once more)

P.S

the stock shocks are crap(kyosho should shame them self for putting such shocks on this expensive cars,even the inferno 7,5 sports has the blue alu shocks!),when yo have some new shocs you're car will drive 10times smoother.

[hung_kuen]

The teflon shocks are smooth...wish they were out when i baught mine...
I changed mine during winter time last year and the difference was so easy to see on snow.
This is fore sure the first upgrade i would done on my lm the stock shocks are crap

[Jay_esS]

Blaster
When the fuel tank gets below around 1/4 full you will notice the engine will start to run faster. This is because the mixture has leaned a little - this is caused by the back pressure from the exhaust entering a empty(ish) tank. Tune the bottom end a little richer if it is really bad or refill the tank at this point when running the car.
If the car starts to speed up before running out of fuel it usually means it's a little rich so you may not be tuned properly
top and/or bottom.
Ideally the car should quicken a little indicating a slightly rich setting - preserving the engine and keeping it from running lean.
You might try using a longer back pressure line - around 9" seems to be quite a popular length - this is said to make power delivery smoother as well.
I have the BSW-72 shocks shown above. They cost me £43 a pair - not cheap but they are beautifully machined and anodised. They come complete everything you need, springs etc. but no oil.I would say they are fit and forget items - first class.
If you run on-road you should consider sway-bars and stiffer springs.
JS

[Blaster]

Jeroen, Hung_Kuen and Jay_ess;

Thanks for your tips guys! I ordered on a hobby shop 4 (2 pairs) of Kyosho alu IFW140. Can I use them front AND rear? Measuring the shock lenght (IFW140) and distance between fixing screws seemed that the shock piston will work a little compressed. Does it compromisse the performance/durability?

The rear shock for Kanai II seemed way to long to fit on Landmax 2 using the car's rear shock tower. And if I change to the buggy's rear shock tower seemed that I will loose the body mount support on the rear.

Jeroen, what oil thickness would you use for a good performance? Hung-Kuen what is the oil thickness that you use on your car?

As for the engine, I followed your tips. I was really running it a little richer. I assumed that it woul help me to break in the engine (it is brand new, 4 tanks only). Keeping it a little lean doesn't overheat it?

I'll send the photo as soon as I get the shocks and install them. The stock shocks are inadequated even to a Pure Ten!!! :mad:

[Blaster]

Jay_ess,

The BSW072 are beautifull shocks - the turbo version? What is the oil thickness that you are using on road? This car is made for rally and has a high CG - is a little high for on-road use. Using alu or turbo shocks that are longer than stock ones won't help me to lower it, I guess. Any suggestion?

I will buy the stabilizer bars soon, good tip. I recently bought 2 TCD diferentials to front and hear. I asssume that a thick oil on front diff and a medium one on hear would boast their performance. Any suggestion - 92201 to front and IFW117-01 to rear?

[jeroen]

You're in a hurry?

Quick ordering!

I hope you did order some springs as well.

You can use the alu shocks medium size both front and rear,and they will be a little compressed but I think this just makes it better.

I run 40WT thick shock oil.
Did not run anything else,so I can not compare it.

You can adjust ride hide with the little screw on the under A arms,It can be adjusted perfect for onroad and offroad aswell.
I also run mine onroad and I have set my ride hide around 1cm
I also noticed that if I set it around 5mm it has less grip(kinda strange cause race cars have really low ride hides)
For offroad you can get it up too 3,5cm without trouble(be sure you use the front universals when driving with this hight)

The stabilizer bars are a nice option too mesh around with,you can give both front and rear more grip with them,or only front or only rear.

I'm surpriced too see that you already have TCD gears instead of other shocks in the firtst place.
I heard TCD is better for offroad use than onroad.
I should not go with the thick TCD diff oil.
Just put the same thickness both front and rear(center can be different)

[Blaster]

Hey Jeroen

You have a LM so you can imagine the hurry to upgrade and run it. I'm on job vacations...:D

The TCD was my first choice because I intended to use the car off-road on rally races when I bought it. I still prefer the on road but the TCD stayed. As for the shocks I really needed the advice of people with more knowledge than me. I don't know any friend that has a LM so I didn't knew about shocks at the beginning. I also bought the on road springs.
:)


By the way I unassembled the engine. Surprise... the clutch (original) is not handling the power increase from Kyosho GS21 to OS VZ-B. Any suggestion?

[jeroen]

Yes

Right adres for clutches :D

Kyosho has some nice blue alu 3 piece clutch shoe's.
These (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNL9&P=7)

springs for the clutch shoe's (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNP8&P=7)

You also need a other 3 pin flywheel:
3 piece flywheel O.S (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU229&P=7)

Again it's kyosho's best thing for clutch setup.
2 shoe clutch isn't as good as a 3 shoe clutch.
I aslo run the 3 shoe alu clutch,and have no complains at all,they simply do not wear!

picture of my clutch setup(poor quality) (http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/madforce/pictures/Untitled-Scanned-33.jpg)

Don't want a 3 shoe setup?,just click HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT907&P=7)


By the way,make sure you are running that nice RZ rich cause it's still brand new

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I replaced my stock junk clutch with the MIP MP 7.5 2 shoe clutch (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWM10&P=7) It works great. This clutch help up to a pull start conv. WS7 in my maxx and also in my LM2. It does not grab as hard at a 3 shoe setup but the MIP clutch is also a lot cheaper and works on the stock 2 pin flywheel.

[Jay_esS]

Blaster
The IFW140 are MP7.5 fronts and will fit front and rear of a LM2.
The LM2 is designed with longer shocks in mind - higher mounts on the standard kit shock stays are provided.Rear buggy shocks are too long. I use the standard BSW-72 springs and 45wt shock oil for very flat off road (red ash). When I remove the shock spacers the chassis has about 10mm ground clearance but one end is higher than the other - the back I think. The insructions with the car suggest using the "droop" screws on the A arms as Jeroen has said but this means that the wheel/s will lift during cornering etc. so.... Whatever you decide, nothing beats a little experimentation.
Rear sway bar set - IFW117 (one thickness)
Front sway bar set -IFW104 (three thicknesses)
Check this out for a on-road LM2 Super Shop Landmax (http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/kyosho_lmx.asp)
What pipe do you use with the OS ?
JS

[Blaster]

Jay

I use the pipe T-2040 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSZ0&P=7) with a T-2050 manifold (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSS8&P=7)

As I drive on-road I addapted one bumper from LM1 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU274&P=7) and foam bumper from a FW-04 (fits like a glove!) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT745&P=7.

Jay, Hung, SixV and Jeroen

I got my new alu shocks!!:D Sad part is that the hobbie shop sent me 2 "long" schocks for rear. They will change it and 2 brand new "medium" will come by tomorrow. I foresee lots of ACTION to the weekend:D :rolleyes:

I am working on a Skyline body. And bought new weels to fit.

As for hide heigh I will run the car and certainly come up with questions. I still have some doubts but I have to test first.:p

By the way, here is a picture of the car. Old wheels and no Skiline body yet. And no rear shocks either (yet)...
:mad:

[Blaster]

Jay

This is a photo of pipe and manifold in place...

[jeroen]

Nice looking car!

I like the header pipe combo,something different.

Damn your lhs is fast with option/spare kyosho parts delivery.

I did some more polishing too my LM today,and fitted the 2 speed after fixing it.
I have bought a second hand RB 9886 polished pipe from a friend,
but is was not polished any more,so I did it again.
Only need a rear carbon shockstay and a ofna hyper 8 port.

A question for ya all,when driving the LM onroad,is it better/nicer too take of the side mudguards?
I think the mudguards are making the car more LM look.

I hope too make some pictures of my car soon.
And if the wheather isn't too bad I will make a nice new video onroad that is,next week I hope

[Jimmy33]

it i cut the back section off the ford truch body to make it lookj more like a pick up and replace it with plasti card will the strength be reduced alot

also if this does work what sort of glue should i use?

thanks!

(and ripmax still haven't delivered!):D

[hung_kuen]

Helo everybody!

This forum is super fast:D

Blaster- I run front and rear with 45wt and its doing just fine but like jeroen i havent tried anything else.
Your car looks sweet,you have loads off hop ups allready.
Did you notice a lot off difference with the tcd diffs?

jeroen-I would keep my mud gards on cause they still keep some stuff outside even fore on road action.
And as you say the lm look.
Hope to see some pics when you are done polishing the rb.

SixVi6-Camaro- good to see you back on the forum.

I am unemployd now after a season job so i am on a wery tight budget
:mad: have applyed fore 3 jobs though,so no more hop ups fore a while.
just hope i dont break anything.

[Blaster]

Jeroen - I would like to see photos of your car when you finish. I saw your homepage - in fact i saw everything you guys wrote since first day. Your LM there is great!:) 8 port engine and a RB pipe? Your car will looks great. And fly!!!!
:D

Hung - Sad to know you're unemployed. Good luck and hope to "see" you working - also on your LM:D - soon.


As for the car itself apart from eye catching looking the performance is not supperb due to the hop ups. Ok, the engine and 2 speed gear makes it a rocket. But the hop ups (shock tower, radio tray, etc) doesn't make much diference. If I knew that earlier I would have bought shocks and new chassis instead. I'll try the new shocks and let you guys know on monday :D


The TCD works fine. I'll try thicker oil on front. But I believe the TCD will do better off road. Not a good investment to on road.

Finally (I need to try short messages...) I'll keep my mud guards even on on-road. I agree with LM look. And prevents more dirty to damage the gears.

[jeroen]

Damn

wanted too reply,and blaster is in front of me :D

Hung_Kuen

I'm also unemployed at this moment :(
So no money too be spent on my cars.
Work is hard too find right now in Holland

Ok I will keep my mudguards(winter is coming also)

Still need too do some things on my LM today,new oil in all 4 shocks,and sealing the engine for any airleaks,cause the few last times the GS21 was too slow somehow.

P.S my dad has a new camera so the pictures will look better than the first LM pictures on my site(also the video's will be alot better quality)

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I'm unemployed too! I've been painting for a home remodeling company for under the table cash for the past few months but I can't catch a break here and get a decent paying real job. Basically I've been out of a decent job for almost a year now. It limits hop ups big time.

I've not been around mostly because I've just been running my LM2 problem free and working on other projects (http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/21rs43ss_01.jpg) and my Clod rock crawlers.

I personally leave my mudguards off my LM2. the LM's body is big and not sealed mudguards like they are on their Buggy counterparts. I just found that the mudguards held more rocks, dirt, mud, and junk more than keep it out but they do protect the pipe and anything that hangs off the chassis from side impacts.

[Blaster]

SixV6 and Jeroen - good luck to you guys on getting new jobs too.

John is the purple car a 1/10 with a .21 engine??? :D

A question for ya all: when we chance pipes, engines, radio plates, etc doesn't we change the balance and CG of the car? After I made my chances seems that one side of my car is heavier than another, as well as the CG is little higher.

Should we use different spring compressions on each side to compensate it??

[hung_kuen]

Blaster- I have changed my engine,pipe and have a 2-speed but my car seems to be well balanced.

I dont think you should have different spring compression on each side,but it doest hurt trying thoug.

Does your car have the same turn radius and/or the same grip to each side?

I am just wondering cause i am far from the most experiensed guy on this forum.

Jeroen- I have to seal my backplate on my os engine,its been leaking there from day one.
What do you intend to use,some heat resistant silicone or something?

SixVi6-Camaro- your project looks fast, i looks like its a 2 speed in there as well am i right?
What car is it?

Look what i found on my desk this morning,my girlfriend had baught me a present since i`m out off money guess i got to marry her some time
:D

[jeroen]

Hi all unemployed persons :D

Six didn't know you still do not have a real job,that's al long time no big cash for ya.

I like the mini car(hpi nitro rs4 3ss?)
with 21 and 2 speed,it's a tight fit.
Will it beat a fusion?

My car has never been driving 100%,there always something wrong with the setup.
I aslo think the LM hasn't got so much grip.although the slicks will help.
But I like the power slides.

Hung_Kuen

Your girl is awesome,never have met a girl that likes rc cars and even buying parts for there friend.
I woud marry here if I were you:D

I never have sealed any airleaks in my hole life :confused:
So I do not know what too use either,want too know also what will work fine.

[hung_kuen]

I have done some research and foud out that you should use sensore safe or oxygen sensor safe high temp rtv silicone gasket maker.

This came from the guys att rc nitro so it should be the best thing to use.
I`m bying some first thing monday.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

yup... its an RS4 3 SS with a hyper 8 port on there. Right now its only single speed 22/43 beacuse the 2 speed clutch was messed up when I got it. Its still running the 2 speed clutchbell but only one half is bing used. I got it for free too from a friend that bought it for $50 to get the temp gauge and fail safe, and RX pack off it. Its stupid fast but now I'm making a custom top plate for it from 4.7mm 7075 aluminum because the stock chassis setup is way too flexible and it keeps striping spur gears. the top plate will stiffen everything up big time for sure.

I've had a couple real jobs that I worked for a few months but one I got laid off from because of large job cuts. the other was just horrible.. well the boss was an A-hole that played favorites like no one I've ever seen. He didn't like me too much and I quit. I've been painting ever since and actually painting houses is makng me a decent penny.


as far as the LM and being unbalanced I've not noticed anything really out of balance on my LM2. If its really out of balance you could use some stick on wheel weights to balance it. I'd not run different spring rates from one side to the other.

Yes... for sealing up engines O2 safe silicone works great. I use that on all the engines that come my way for sealing the back plate and carb.

[Landmax2B]

What engines have people tried in thier LM2's?

Has anyone tried some higher end engines like the Trinity Sirio .27 Monster Horsepower 27XL ??

These are about $330, but I dont see anyone really spending money On th powerplants in these LM2.

They are heavy and have big drivetrain losses, what kind of powerplant have people been using?

What kind of results?

I am thinking about doing a LM2 project next yeat and fabricating basically every part myself out of composites or alloys in Race and/or Machine shop, as I have full access to all the top end machining tools here (CNC, vacuform, 3d printing, waterjetting, etc).

So I am trying to get the hardware figured out for the engine.

Thanks

ALSO, WHATS THE MAX GROUND CLEARANCE YOU CAN RUN WITH THE LM2, I REMEMBER WITH THE LM1 IT WAS PRETTY LOW AND i COULD NOT EVEN CLEAR LOW CUT GRASS...I am looking to use on the car on pavement, fine gravel, and the roughest surface will probably be semi-flatdirt.

[jeroen]

Hi SIX

I just bought myself a new Ofna hyper 8 port at ebay :D
For $125 it's a reasonable price I think

How good is this engine in a landmax?(with 2 speed)
Do you like this engine?
What are the basic needle settings?
What pipe will be better do you think: the CVEC or the RB 9886?

Thanks for answering them.

I think a engine of $230 and more is need needed in the landmax.

Your project sounds just like thorbobs his landmax,I hope it will be just as nice cause they look awesome that way.

REMEMBER WITH THE LM1 IT WAS PRETTY LOW AND i COULD NOT EVEN CLEAR LOW CUT GRASS...

Where did you see/read this crap

I even think the landmax 1 can be set higher than a landmax 2
or the same.

It can be around 5mm low too let's say 3,5cm high when using big shocks and universals shafts in the front,and putting the drive cups from front too rear.
That's pretty high too me.
Too high for your discript driving use

[Unobjectionable]

using the ST tires (KYOC6229/GT-49) will also add some ground clearance, as they are the tallest of the LM tires

[Landmax2B]

I had a LM1 when it first came out a long time ago, and i usedlong shocks and I raised it to its max height, and did some other tricks to allow the axles to be at a smaller angle with the CVD's. However for what I was trying to use it on, it was not getting enough ground clearance for what i was trying to do.

However, if I use it for more flat dirt, gravel, and dirty pavement, I think that should be perfect!

Sorry for the confusion.

When I am done with it, it should be pretty cool, I am already started to plan out some interesting designs I can implement ;) Not just remaking parts like Thorbob but redesigning stuff, and adding in other features (traction control, more then one brake... etc, don't want to give too much away hehe).

Originally posted by jeroen


REMEMBER WITH THE LM1 IT WAS PRETTY LOW AND i COULD NOT EVEN CLEAR LOW CUT GRASS...

Where did you see/read this crap

I even think the landmax 1 can be set higher than a landmax 2
or the same.

It can be around 5mm low too let's say 3,5cm high when using big shocks and universals shafts in the front,and putting the drive cups from front too rear.
That's pretty high too me.
Too high for your discript driving use

[Blaster]

I run my LM2 this weekend with new shocks. What a great investment! :D Seems that I have a new car...:eek:

Hung_Kuen - your girlfriend is great! Does she have a (single) sister??:D

SixVi6 and Jeroen - Seems that you guys like "special projects"... I just finished my 2 speed Superteen with OS .21VZ-R... Jay-esS it bets a touring 1/10 in a track:cool:

Landmax2B - I use OS on my cars. On LM2 I first used .21RG and now a .21VZ-B with 3 port. The Sirio . 27XL seems great but doesn't worth for me to buy a $370+ engine that has to have changed piston and sleeve every 1/2 year or less...:mad: I drive for fun, not on races. Check this:http://www.teamtrinity.com/nitro/engines/sirio/sirio.asp , click on Warranty Info. "...It can last from up to 1/2 a season to just a few hours."

[jeroen]

Originally posted by Landmax2B
[B]I had a LM1 when it first came out a long time ago, and i usedlong shocks and I raised it to its max height, and did some other tricks to allow the axles to be at a smaller angle with the CVD's. However for what I was trying to use it on, it was not getting enough ground clearance for what i was trying to do.

However, if I use it for more flat dirt, gravel, and dirty pavement, I think that should be perfect!

Sorry for the confusion.



I though you didn't try it your own,that's why I said it a little hard in the first time :eek:

And also I did run it on some extreme offroad,but never did had any problems with the ride hight being too low.

And if I really want extreme offroad I'll take my Madforce now:D

Blaster

Good too hear you like those shocks,they should be one of the best for that kinda price range.

1/10 with those kinda engine's and 2 speed,is funny too mesh around with.

The sirio is too expensive i think and would be alot of power too control.
Instead I like the CMB rally more.

[hung_kuen]

Blaster- she has a sister not singel though...
Did you buy the turbo or the teflon ones?
what wt are you using?

Landmax2b-I am looking foreward too see some pics off your project when you are starting:D wish i had the chance to make some aluminium parts...
I have a force 8 port turbo engine in my lm.
The engine is wery fast and reliable

jeroen-I think that engine will do more than fine in your lm..
About my cvec again:confused: icant get it right,i have good high end but off the line it take a sec bfore it launches.
I have tried leaning out the low end but then my car starts to race by it self?
Iam going nuts soon the engine is wery esaly tuned with the stock pipe.

[Landmax2B]

Originally posted by hung_kuen

Landmax2b-I am looking foreward too see some pics off your project when you are starting:D wish i had the chance to make some aluminium parts...
I have a force 8 port turbo engine in my lm.
The engine is wery fast and reliable

I might not even do the project now. I just got a new toy, and have to prep it for this coming season. 95 m3 ltw WCT, so thats going to take most of my time/money, and I probably won't even have time for the landmax, so I decided to just spend time on my full scale racecars.
Also I probably would not make many parts out of aluminum, they would bend too easily with good abuse on a rally car, I would use some other super alloys that we have some bits laying around in our fsae shop :)

[Blaster]

Hung_Kuen - I am using the IFW140, the medium alu shocks. In front things are fine.

On rear, besides the shock does a great job I could not get the best setup yet. The suspension is still too stiff. I am using the on road (silver) springs with the larger spacers on it. Should I use the off road springs instead? They are taller and do not need spacers - as your rear suspension Hung.

As for your car, sorry if I say some thing that might sounds wrong but I don't have the expertise that some of you have: isn't the problems you described caused by your clutch, Hung? I had similar problems on my car - you guys remember my first post here? - and after change the clutch to a vespel unit and fine tune the engine problems are gone....

Guys, have you heard about a "pump regulator" ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG59&P=7 ) connected to the R/C engine that mechanically pressurize the fuel line and makes the engine have the same behavior with full, medium and low fuel tank? The guy on my lhs offered that to me but I have no idea about how it works and real benefits...
:confused:

[jeroen]

Hung_kuen(I heard you did receive your suspension arms,now work on that car will ya,I'm waiting for those pictures for ages now):D just kiding ya

The cvec is a hard too tune engine,do you switch the inside spring also too see if it will help.

Blaster.seting up the landmax shocks springs had always a problem too me,but I did try some new stuff this time,only have too wait for the hyper too try it.

Never heard of such a fuel device.

When using the landmax onroad,whats best too use stiff are soft springs?
I did shorten my rear spring.


Are the tarmac 1/8 rims and tires a good fit?

How about a replacement body,is there a normal priced body that will fit the LM.
I really like the New lancer body from kyosho and the nissan skyline GTR is a nice aswell.
but man they are expensive,and that's still without paint!


P.S does some of you guys use msn messenger?
Or can we speak by chatbox or something,that would be nice.

[Blaster]

Jeroen,

The set up for LM2 suspension is really tricky. I normally use the springs in front harder than the rear. The stiffness depends of the track. For LM2, I use gold street springs on front and silver on rear. But the rear suspension course is very short - 1cm max - and it reaches the end of the course easily. Then the rear starts to "jump":mad:

The tarmac tires are good on parking lots and other tarmac/cement areas with some dust. I plan to get some Proline tires when they wear. Kyosho is too expensive.

As for a car body, the Tower Hobbies has them all. And there's no scape from high price. I tried Tamya but their 1/8 wheelbase is shorter than Kyo. Any idea?

I use MSN messager. htrad@hotmail.com

[hung_kuen]

My mf is back on the road again but there is a problem with the camera.
Our pc crashed and i had to reinstall everything but it refuses to install my camera driver:mad:

What is the best way to get my old tires off my rims?

jeroen you had a great way to die rims didnt you?
I use more preload when i drive onroad cause i dont have diffrent springs.

I use MSN Messenger hung_kuen40@hotmail.com i have already added you blaster.

[Blaster]

Hung_Kuen - I already added you to my MSN too.

I use to put the wheel/tires in warm water for around 10 minutes. Then you can remove the tires more easily. Be careful to not have the water too hot or you may damage the plastic wheels!:eek:

Yesterday I finally found a good setup for my rear shocks!:D Of road springs (silver) with some preload. The on road springs simply does not work on rear with alu shocks:mad:

Guys I got from a friend that flies - almost as we do on our LMs
:D - RC Helicopters a device from Hobbico called Volt Watch. It is a great tool that allow you to see, trough small leds, how much power your batteries still have.:D Only needs a "Y" connection to the receiver. http://www.hobbico.com/accys/hcap0330.html

[jeroen]

Hi guys

I did ad you too my msn.

My msn is j_van_midden@hotmail.com

Hung_Kuen,damn computers,I'll wait inpatient too see those pictures(didn't know you already shot them)

About the tires removing form the rims,the most persons just boil them for a few minutes.
But i found this on nitroreview a long time ago:
This works like a charm. Preheat your oven to 400 - 450 F, TURN IT OFF!!! Then place your tires/wheels in the oven and let set for about 45 minutes. As the oven cools, it crystalized the CA and you can simply POP the tires off of the wheels. No the tires won't melt and the rims won't either. I didn't believe it at first either but it works beyond your expectations. CAUTION: Use oven mitts when you take the tires out of the oven unless you let it cool right down. The key is 400 - 450 F, TURN OFF THE OVEN, place wheels/tires in oven for 45 minutes and WALLA! Try it!




Blaster
Good too hear you have find a good setup,I didn't yester day,I think it was too soft on the springs.

Nice tip about the voltwatch,I did at it too my wishlist at tower alreay.

I actualy drove my LM yesterday since a few months :eek:
It was nice too drive with the 2 speed again,I sell my GS21 so I did tune it for the buyer,the thing was bloody quick that day :D
The tires did sping a little when hitting full gas on start up.

That Onfa hyper is gona be scary too drive with for me I think,but I like too much power on my cars,just be smooth with the trigger for now on.

I did make some pictures of my chassis yesteday,only waiting for the Ofna hyper and rearcarbon shockstay.
Check the newest pictures (http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/newpage.html)

Hope too speak all of you on msn pretty soon.

[hung_kuen]

jeroen- i`ll try the oven trick today thanks fore the tip...

when i got my new engine i also had to go easy on the trigger:D or else it will spin out in no time..

Blaster- the volt watch was a good idea,its so anoing to get out all my gear and then drive fore 2min just to run out off power

We will speak soon on msn

[Blaster]

Guys, sad to know we live too far from each other. If we could put our cars on a track what a hell of a race that would be!!!:D

Great looking car Jeroen!Carbon fiber and polished alu... very cool:cool: Hoes does perform the slicks on parking lots? And the shocks in your pics are much better than the IFW140 I've bought!:eek: No need of plastic parts to preload the spring. What's this part #?:D I also added you to my MSN. Hope to see you there guys!

Nice tip to remove the tires. I assume the temp in the oven is in Fahrenheit...

Hey Hung, where are your pictures man? Blue plate chassis, blue shocks, a monster engine....:D

Good to know you liked the Volt Watch tip. I installed already (got it yesterday!). It works great. The bad news is that it instantly showed that my car batteries were running almost discharged.:mad:

[jeroen]

Believe me if I say your shocks are better quality,but the preload things are a little cheap looking,so I do not use them on my madforce.

There will be one world wide landmax meeting once,I think when Boocake will win some big cach :D

Great talking with you guys on msn!

(Hung_Kuen I has some internet trouble this afternoon,so I could speak too anymore by msn )