Kyosho Landmax Forum v2.0

[belgravekm]

hi,do you put diff oil in the two speed tranny as well

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Nope,

The two speed tranny has a "solid diff" which means that it uses a solid axle instead of a diff (so no dii oil needed and equal power is delivered to the front and rear wheels). Not so great of set up for rough offroading but good for on road action...especially if you put very heavy oil in the front diff. and moderate-heavy oil in the rear diff.

[hung_kuen]

jonA- how muth was the tires from tower,do they come with inserts?

[JonA]

Hung-kuen- The slick tires us guys at work ordered from tower costs 23$ for 2 tires, the rims are 17$ per 2pack.

The tires are supposed to come with foams..

The tower numbers are: rims six spoke silver/chrome - LXV778
slick tires with inserts -LXLP21

I wrote tower yesterday and complained about they being so slow.. Today i recieved a mail with an apology and a 5$ discount. And they guaranteed that the package would be shipped soon!

Nice gesture from Tower Hobbies!:)

Happy weekend to everybody on the forum!

Jon A

[belgravekm]

hi can i use a 8\s start top engine with a two transmition for the landmax and which engine mount would i use,the ones on tower only says they work with an os engine
thankx

[belgravekm]

which engine is better,my gs-21r is working okay but i have an 8\s nova rossi engine and i was just wondering which one is better.

[cheeyta]

I haven't posted here for ages but I am heading back home from college soon and plan to get out my Landmax2. All i had time to do before was build it and break it in. Its basically total stock but i plan on get a better air filter, fuel filter and differential oil and a fail safe. Any other must haves? Also i plan on upgrade the tuned pipe what would you recomend. And is there anything that would be worth upgrading right of the bat.
Thanx

[hung_kuen]

You all were right the cvec pipe is transforming my rally tires to slicks in no time,even though it`s icy outside.

have anybody tried the optional rally tires i belive they are alot softer then the stock ones..

[jeroen]

Not tried them my self.

But I heard for a experienced guy that they are working better.

Softer compound so the mud doesn't stick in the patern so much

[JonA]

Hung_kuen- I have not tried the optional rally tires myself, but i have also heard that they are supposed to be softer and more grippy than the stock ones. And they come with foam inserts..

Have you asked your LHS about the price here in Norway? I have destroyed two rims and tires, and need some new rallytires while i wait for my slicks from Tower...

I am having difficulties making my car track straight when i pull the throttle trigger after som bad crashes. When its "coasting"/running on part throttle or braking it is perfectly ok, but when i "floor" it, the car spinns out to the right... It is also much easier to do "donuts" with the wheels turned towards the right...
Here is what i have checked:

-Chassis plate: Was bent, but is now straight again
-Aluminum hingepin plate for the rear suspension was loose, fastened properly
-checked all A-arms for straightnes/fractures , OK
-all ballbearings seems ok
-suspension geometry looks fine on all wheels
-the diffs are ok ( i think ) I have moved the one that was in the front diff to the rear and vice versa.. still pulls to the right..
- no unnormal play in steering

:confused: :confused: :confused:

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!

Jon A

[Ethan Hunt]

Originally posted by hung_kuen
You all were right the cvec pipe is transforming my rally tires to slicks in no time,even though it`s icy outside.

have anybody tried the optional rally tires i belive they are alot softer then the stock ones..

Weeeeeeelllll,
I reckon that softer tires are not exactly the right choice if you are a crazy, donut pulling speed junkie like I am.
It's more like that softer tires will wear off even quicker.
But thats just my humble opinion.

[Ethan Hunt]

But I've got a different problem and maybe you's could help me out. My LM1 lacks the throttle linkage set, displayed in the (german) manual as spare part BS-114.
Kyosho Germany doesn't stock it anymore.:(

Does anyone know if there is any interchangeable from the LM2?

Plz help me! Ineed to get out on the track!!!

[SixVi6-Camaro]

whew... lets see.

belgravekm..
hmm.. well if it aint broken don't fix it.. but if that GS21 starts to show signs of getting weak then heck yeah drop the 8\s in. fo the 2 speed I'm sure there are ways to make it work. they say that it won't work with pilot shaft engines but ofna makes a nifty kit that includes some spacers Ofna part #10099 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=7) that should solve the problem of the pilot shaft and clutchbell.

cheeyta.. off the bat I'd just run it.. the best upgrades, after the basics that you listed, are pretty much ones that add more power better handling and what not. first off look into a new pipe.. just about anythting other than the stock pipe is a great upgrade. better shocks, tires after the stock ones go bald, and I replaced my plastic radio tray standoffs with aluminum ones to stop it from torquing over when I pulled the brakes hard.

hung_kuen...
Yes the soft compound rally tires are great. I'm running them now on mine. They are a lot softer and better than the stockers. thus far they have done a good job in the snow and ice that I've been running my LM2 on.


and now for all the rally guys.. Download this vid.. WRC 2002 highlights.. (http://www.rrunracing.com/Pics/wrc-2002.wmv) very cool stuff! Now I can add this to the WRC 2001 vid.

John

[Jimmy33]

I think so but let the LM1 and LM2 owners check me up on that :rolleyes:

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Ethan Hunt.. hmmm.. lets see. I'll use tower hobbies or all this because tehy include pics of everyhitng it should make it easier.

Right here is the listing for BS-114 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU569&P=7)

Now the LM2 linkage parts..
Here is one that is listed IF-27 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU571)

and more that is listed for the LM2 FD-65 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU572)

I'm nore exactly sure which would work though I'm not totally familiare with the LM1's layout. I'd run through the pics and parts listings at tower and see fi you can grab one of those. the LM2 uses a mix of IF-27 and FD-65.

[Ethan Hunt]

Thx John, that was just what I was looking for, even though it doesn't make me happy. Those two spare parts are about 50 bucks over here. I'll see what I can build myself.:rolleyes:

Thanks anyways.

Alex

[SixVi6-Camaro]

hmmm.. JonA

well the chassis may still be twaeked. once it gets tweaked its very hard to get it perfectly straight and it doens't take much at all to mess up the handling. another thing is to check the ride height. you may have one side just a bit higher than the other.

also you could pull out the dog bones and leave the wheels mounted and give them a spin. it may be something binding only when you have the wheels mounted on in the carriers.


hmmm.. Alex
you could also try Ofna linkages. here is a listing of the ofna linkages.. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=ofna+linkage&FVPROFIL=++) you may have better luck getting those cheaper locally.

John

[hung_kuen]

jonA- i know my lhs has the softer rally tires i dont know how many tough.
i think the price is around 300,- nok

i have just the same problem as you have,but i think its my poor gluing of the tires that has caused stering problems....
at medium speed it begins to do small slalom movments and its totaly imposible to drive straight line..

thanks to everybody on the forum for great response


:D :D

[JonA]

Hey !

Thanks for great feedback on my problem! I worked a bit on my car this afternoon, and it turned out to be one of the wheelbearings on it's right rear wheel that became hard to spinn when it had to handle some power/load... I had previously checked all the bearings, but apparently not well enough:eek:

Now, its ready for some chassisbending action again :D

I really have to get some new tires and rims soon, because i don't think it's good for the bearings to run with wheels which are as bad out of balance as mine are..

Thanks again!

Jon A

[JonA]

Hung_kuen-

If your car is not consistent about pulling to the left or the right, i would check the Front suspension geometry.. It sounds to me like your car has got to much "toe out". This leads to instability.. The same applies to the rear of the car. I think this is covered in the LM manual, but i'm not sure..

Jon A

[SixVi6-Camaro]

my stock tires were out of balance too. one of them was horrible and it wore out really quickly just on one side of the tire because it was soo out of balance and it made the car actually bounce at higher speed. the strange part is I went to the slicks and reused the same rims (after I soaked the rims in acetone to remove any leftover glue) and they were all almost perfectly balanced. Even the soft rally tires I'm running now are really well balanced. possibly the stock tires are not the best molded leaving one side heavier than the other.. but I don't know.

JonA.. good to hear man. Get that chassis good and straight and your in business.

John

[ThorBobRC]

Woohoo! Look at all these norwegians, room for one more? :D

Just wanted to practise some "on-topic spamming" here, by telling ya'll that I (finally) have a web-site of sorts up and running, and though its still faaar from done, I have a complete description with LOTS of pix from my Landmax-Rally-Hybrid project.

You will find it in the "Projects" section of my site at www.thorbob.com.

Oh and John, got your Landmax 2 site in my links section as well ;)

Thor

[SixVi6-Camaro]

ohh.. very cool ThorBob thanks! I'll have to add a link to your site on mine for sure especially now you have that LM project there. That is just sooo beautiful.. that .. that I think I may cry.. :D

John

[Unobjectionable]

you guys have been busy! sorry i been so scarce recently, lots going on as of late (new job for one)...i love those snow pics, and my new thorbob.com bookmark! ehehe

[SixVi6-Camaro]

good to hear from ya Unobjectionable! I as afraid you were MIA... we are alive and kickin here.

I'm waiting for more snow!!! darn it! I want that perfect almost 1:1 looking drift on my LM2 in the snow. I know its possible.. the drivin' away shot that I took looks close to 1:1. come on snow.. :D

hmmm... found this interesting..

12 mm hex adapter for 1/8 ofna's.. (http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts/ofna.htm)

6 or 8mm axle.. now I wonder if this would fit on an LM.. Actually it says its for 2.2 truck wheels but its all a 12mm hex. This could allow the use of 2.2 truck wheels and tires, super nitro wheels and tires.. even 1/10 TC wheels lol!

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Heads up! anyone wanting an LM2 cheap
check here! (http://www.rc-x.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3531)

the guy wants $255 shipped within the US lower 48.. Its the 206 body.. and truthfull I'm inches away from buying it myself. if he drops any cheaper Its mine! but if anybody here wants it now get it! :D

Here is a pic of it.. its in the background (http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2bm2j/pics/junk/bp_001.jpg)

John

[roee]

Hey guys,

Does the Landmax 2 come supplied with tire inner foams? because I read somewhere it doesnt, but tower says they are included..

Also, what do you think of Futaba 3PDF radio with 2x S9450 for steering and throttle for use with the LM2?

Edited to say I think I'll need to get some tires with the Landmax 2, as I'm from Israel and ordering from US, so I want to get everything needed together. I don't have the convinience of a LHS carrying Kyosho..

So if someone thinks I deserve a nice listing of spares and other stuff I might need, please do :D (especially tires)

Thanks..

[JonA]

Roee-

The tires that come with the LM2 kit does not include inner foams, but the optional tires do!

What spares you should buy depends on where you are going to drive it.. I have had my LM2 for about a month now, and i've been through two wheel bearings, one set of body posts, a bunch of antenna tubes, two rims and four tires. :D I have been driving mostly in parking garages with a lot of (salt)water puddles in them. I guess thats why i have destroyed the bearings. I have also had some trouble with a slipping pullstart,but got a tip from Kirk on this forum which work great. I can try to post a pic of the mod.. I have also been doing some racing in the snow. All in all, the LM2 is very rugged.

My body looks pretty bad too, but i'll wait untill i can get my hands on a Skyline GT-R body before i change that...

SixVi6- The ofna wheel hex look very interesting! Would be great to be able to use other wheels than the LM ones..


Thorbob- Great website! Have you decided on what body you are going to use for the LM project??


Jon A

[jeroen]

Cool

that pullstart one bearing solution

Maybe you can buy one ot these wheel stoppers

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV697&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=mtw01&FVPROFIL=++

[Redfox]

Hello =]

just checkin in wiv you guys... this thread certainly has moved along! My GS Storm Pro is up and running really well.

I am still undecided about what i should do with the LM. Might try to flog it off to some unsuspecting buyer! Hehehehe the engine doesn't really run tho. Lost too much compression. What should i do? Sell it as is or get a new Piston and Sleeve??

laterz,

Chris

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Which one is the Landmax 2?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMC89&P=7
or this MP7.5 Rally
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANJ2&P=7

[jeroen]

this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANJ2&P=7 is the landmax 2

The other link is the landmax 1

Litlle bit weird over at tower hobby's

landmax 1 is landmax 1

landmax 2 = mp-7,5 rally

[jeroen]

My old site was deleted by lycos tripod

So I hate too make a new account

It contains some pics and vids of my madforce and landmax

My website (http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/index.html)

Still working on the looks.

Isn't easy too make it look cool, gotta learn some stuff on the web bulder ****.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Jeroen,

How did you fit the Madforce three speed assembly into the the LM1 without having to modify where the center diff braces are located? When i put the tranny in my chasis I tried to fit the 3 speed assembly in every concievible way but adventually had to "spread" the diff. mounts about 5mm further apart to get it to fit. I might have had to do this because I used the kyosho special aluminum diff mount supports (thus having to mill out a new top diff. plate) as opposed to the stock plastic mounts (did not try the fit with them). Because of this, I also had to spread the front/rear bulkheads apart about 7mm apiece so I could fit mp6 front universals for both the front and rear center drives of my chasis. It all worked out in the end but it cost me a lot of time in having to calculate and drill all the new mounting holes in the correct places.

thanks for your reply!

[jeroen]

Hi

The only thing I did too fit the 3 speed tranny in the center diff braces,was too drill out the front bearing holder the edge that holds the bearing inside so it can not get out of the front, so that it can slide a little bit more too the front of the mount.

And the drive shaft in front keeps the tranny in its place, no shifting forward,beacause of the bearing that could get out of the front center diff brace.

So the best thing for you is too use the stock diff mount.

No drilling needed in the chassis

And I used the stock rear drive shaft, and the stock 2 speed drive shaft upfront, little cutting was needed on the ends too fit it nicely.

Hope you understand wath I just explained, If not I make a picture for you too make it clear

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks for your answer Jeroen! That makes perfect sense. I already drilled out my new chasis and everything fits/works fine...I just wanted to know how you did it.:)

[jeroen]

Nice

Hope too see the second person with the landmax 3 speed

Are you able too make video's of it?

Do you have pics of the project already?

[KIRK S. DECKER]

The project will probably not be finished until spring. I still have a number of parts to mill out including lower suspension arms (per Thorbob) as well as a custom radio tray, etc. I dont have any video capabilities nor a digital camera (but a few people im my family do). I may not be able to get any pictures of the work in progres but will definitly have some of the finished project (one way or another).


Off the subject,
anyone who purchases the "special" large hardened steel bevel gears (BS036) to replace the stock cast aluminum ones for the lm1 front and rear gear boxes must be careful and check to make sure they fit the differential case (BS126) correctly. The ones I purchased had the inner diameter too small by 10/1000 of an inch thus not allowing the diff case to fit correctly (the case was slightly cockeved and did not seal well.) To the eye they looked like they fit but the spider gears inside did not "feel" quite right and the diffs. leaked oil. i took them apart and used calipers to compare the size with the stockers and sure enough they were "off". I had to bore out the inside edge just a hair. im glad i caught this before I ever ran them in my car because im sure i would have trashed those internal gears in about 2 seconds. This was kinda a dissapointment to find that these (expensive) kyosho parts had such loose tolerences. I wonder how many people ruined their diffs by istallig these flwed gears as is?

[jeroen]

So that's some project

What kind of mill do you use?

Me also want too buy one too make the a arms just like thorbob

Does the mp6 hop-up chassis fit the landmax 1?

strange stoy, of the special large hardened steel bevel gears
Did not know that kyosho did make a not direct fit part

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks,
I've been using a Sherline 5400 mill ( www.sherline.com ). I also added the optional rotary table and tilt table which adds to its versitility tenfold. My LHS happens to be a sherline dealer and he saved me some money on the sherline list prices (I also purchased a 3/8" chuck, boring head,and some other goodies). Still pretty expensive for all these goodies but im having a blast (and learning more everytime i use it). Theoretically, i can make just about any spare RC part out there, and some that are not commercially available. Raw materials are avaiable on the web, and sometimes can be found as scrap at local machine shops for very cheap (6061 and 7005 t-6 aluminum, derlin, nylon, teflon, carbon fiber, etc.)
Using the mill takes time and patience (and practice) but to me this is half the fun...plus in the long run your saving money ($50-60 dollars on aluminum A-arms...give me a brake....plus if you trash them in a wreck your out the cash....if you mill them yourself you can whip up some replacements in a few hours and your back on the road. In fact my next project (after the LM onroad racer) is to use my friends Tmaxx 2 as a pattern to base an all aluminum super maxx...of course with some of my own mods. One more thing...these mills are designed to use many parts (end cutters, slit saws, drill bits, etc) that can be purchased at your local industrial supply store.

As for the compatibility of the of the mp6 chasis, i have no clue..the man that could probably answer this question would be "Unobjectable" (aka. bukkake,ecatbox etc)...btw, what happened to him....I dont think ive seen him on this thread in a while?

[jeroen]

Nice but little bit too expensive for me

Maybe I get a job in the metal industrie, so I can make the stuff over there

I was thinking on the other brand, Proxxon, here a link too the milling machines I like ot them this one (http://www.proxxon.de/en/27110.html)

or this one (http://www.proxxon.de/en/20165.html)

The first one is about $300

the second link is about $400

The second one has a bigger table, that's what I like about it, and you can use any normal drill machine in it.

So I see you're busy with some cool stuff.

Boocake

Yeah I do not speak him any more on msn messenger also

I think he is a busy man with is work and stuff like that

[Redfox]

those mills are very nice jeroen... what's the cheapest CNC mill you can get? because CNC is just plain cool and you can do some awesome stuff with the confidence that you have good tolerances and stuff...

[jeroen]

Those mills I showt aren't cnc, are they?

Don't know the prices for them, maybe you can search at a search machine for cheap cnc mills.

A what the heck, I'll search those prices myself for ya

I'll let you now when I got some more info

How's the landmax doing?

[Redfox]

Haven't touched it in months... i am currently running a second hand GS Storm Pro that i bought and it is very nice.

I can't run the LM because the engine has pretty much lost compression and is a bitch to keep runnin... the engine in the storm on the other hand is excellent. It's the Thunder Tiger Pro21bxr...

i might eventually get a second hand picco engine for the buggy and chuck the thunder tiger in the LM. I also need some more hi torque servos... i might pull apart the LM and clean it up and see how much i can get for it.

I would like to keep it cos i forked out a lotta cash for it and it would be hard to part with it. I was thinking of doing what thorbob did later on when i have more money and time. The LM is definitely a good basis on a project car.

btw, where has bukkake been recently??

[Pr0k]

Just checking in with you guys. BooCake or whatever name he is using these days is fine. He has a new job and has been pretty busy so I really haven't driven up to see him. All is fine down here in Florida and I will tell him you all were asking for him.

[cheeyta]

If you remove the inside baffle cone in the stock pipe on the lm2 will there be any performance gain? Just an idea while saving up for a cvec.

[jeroen]

Yes

I done it myself,but did not notice big difference's in low and high rpm performance

But many say they notice some increase

It will do good,that's for sure

And it makes more noise, that was what I liked about it

[hung_kuen]

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERYBODY ON THE FORUM


i got some kyosho turbo shocks from my dad for christmas:D :D but the my lhs had given him medium for the front and large for rear and had told him that this was a good setup...
stock the lm has medium all the way around so i am wondering if i shold switch the large for some mediums..

does anyone have experiense with this or a opinion that would be great..

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Happy holidays to all! :)


you need the mediums on all four corners. the large ones will be a bit too long for the rear. I tried some long shocks on the rear of mine and it would work but it would alo have very limited travel.

John

[flix]

hi,

I'm thinking of getting the landmax 2 but was wondering what parts are required to convert it to a buggy that i can race with? I would be racing mostly novice since it'll be my first nitro car.
This way, I can play around with rallying since i love rally cars and i can race with people on tracks with the buggy conversion since there's no rally class here.

Also, how does the landmax 2 handle on a buggy track? I've actually heard of people running them on buggy tracks without a problem.

thanks.
flix

[jeroen]

The biggest difference between a landmax and a mp 7,5 buggy, is that the landmax has shorter a arms, and crappy shocks, and offcource the rims and tires.

This are just the big difference's.

Yes the landmax handle's well on a buggy track

Maybe you can also consider the mp 7,5 sports buggy

[hung_kuen]

thanks for the help SixVi6 i am going down town today to switch the large for some mediums and get my new tires as well:D :D

[flix]

jeroen,

thanks for the info. i'm leaning towards the landmax 2 more and more. i had considered the HPI Super Nitro Rally since that can be converted to the Nitro MT, but the 1/8 scale seems to be a bit more enticing. More complex and more costly, however.

thanks.
flix

[Pr0k]

Dude an hpi rally is a much inferior product than the LandMax either version. The nice thing about the Landmax /mp cars is they are really pretty bullet proof. I have rolled and curb checked mine to no end. An Hpi would have been reduced to the garbage pile by now. Yes they are more money but you get what you pay for.

[jeroen]

In the time I bought my landmax, I also checked the hpi super nitro rally.

But man I'm I glad I choice the landmax

The landmax is better than the hpi rally.

It's stronger,faster,cooler, and it's eventuly cheaper

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Yes the Landmax 2 is more expensive initially but it needs very few hop ups and is very reliable.

In HPI's defense though.. I had an HPI NMT (same as the SNR but with shorter arms..) and with the stock engine it was reliable after I bought... a good clutch, a 2 needle carb, better brake, good shocks, good shock towers, steel spur gear, slipper clutch, header, turnbuckles, and pipe. yup after spending more than the cost as the original kit just on hop ups it could run flip and do pretty well w/o anything breaking...
Then I decided to put a CVR into it and the reliability went south with all the added power I had to get a new flywheel, motor mounts, hardened ring and pinion gears for front and rear, CVD's, a stronger chassis, and AL wheel hexes. Then it was reliable again. Then I got sick of all HPI's and sold them or parted them out around the time I got my Landmax 2. :) I do still have one HPI RS4 2 that I got for free.. Its teh beater and its powered by the GS21r from my LM2 now :D and no its not holding together.

ohh yeah I should say I've had nothing break on my LM2 even with the silly powerfull 24.7 on there. The only time I had anythign break was after a really bad crash.. 40+ mph straight into a curb. it didn't flip or go flying. it was just CRACK 40mph to dead stop in a split second. I bent the chassis, and bent the front dog bone on that one.

John

[Pr0k]

AWW come on John we all know that was self conciously on purpose (that new chasis had your name on)! ehehe

[SixVi6-Camaro]

haha.. yeah I've been hoping other stuff will break on my LM2 so I can buy cool hop ups but no luck just yet.

[Samk]

I'm interested in purchasing this car but have never built rc cars in my life. Is it difficult to build and how long does it take to build?

[jeroen]

It's not really difficult.

But they desrcibe the landmax in a magazine I read, that it isn't a beginner car, but I think you can better buy a real car then first a crappy 1/10 car, so from my experience I would recomment the landmax as a bigginers car, although you must have some basic technic know how.

It took me 1 day and night too build the landmax, this is includes the body painting.

[hfracing]

hmm my first post in the landmax forum for .. ehh a very long time..

I MISS MY OLD landmax. WHY did i sell it...

meybe i should get a lm2?

My old landmax had a custom 4mm chassis, carbon fibre parts everywhere, TTR 21 engine(ported), cvec pipe. +++ lotsa custom parts. was running a skyline body and slicks ++

great car..

im also a norwegian.. i saw some others earlier in this thread.. HEI på dere.. bor rett nord for oslo jeg..

[flix]

hey guys,

thanks for all the info. you have just sold me on the landmax 2.
i think you're all right. it may be more costly at first but cheaper in the long run when it comes to performace/upgrade.

thanks.
flix

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Samk and anyone that has not seen it yet. I have a web site with all the instructions and pics that I took at various times during the building process. the chassis cones prebuilt wiht the diffs and bulkheads already mounted and shimed nicely. Which gets you started and makes it a lot easier to build.

Check it out here...
My Landmax 2 site.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/index.html)

hfracing.. get one! LM2's rock. I've seen the pics of your old LM. very nice work on that.

John

[jeroen]

Respect for ya

I liked your landmax a lot.

You did some nice custom things with the landmax

Hope too see some more stuff of you in the future

Why not make a custom monster truck?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Alright.. I tore down my engines today for a good cleaning and inspection. I remembered that somebody here wanted to see the porting I did on my 24.7.. soo.. here it goes. the 1st pic..

[SixVi6-Camaro]

the above pic is the maxxes crank and sleve fresh out of the engine before I cleaned them up. yes there is a bit of rust on the crank thats what happens when you run an RC in lots and lots of snow. even with after run oil it will still rust. Thats why I tear them down a lot in the winter. anyways.. on the left side of he crank I knife edged the leading edge. on the sleve I only did work on the two Schnuerle ports on either side of the sleve and knife edged the botom edge of the sleve leading to the boost port and Schnuerle ports. Then I did work on the carb simply just puting a nice radius on the carb inlet and thats all I did to pick up a good amount of RPM on my 24.7's.

John

[jeroen]

That would have been me, who wanted too see the ported XTM 24.7.

Looks nice.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

HFracing,

I remember a while back that you had a really cool site on your various project vehicles (including your lm1), but i believe it has been down for some time now...any chance you will be getting it up and going again. I know that 1 or 2 of the guys here offered to host the lm portion of your site on their sites some time ago.

[Jimmy33]

Here is a picture of my landmax

opps try again...

[hfracing]

i must say, i have been missing my landmax a lot..
the HFracing website will RISE AGAIN ;)
Here is whats left of the old site.. the host i had back then kicked me out bacause of exessive bandwith usage(i hosted divx movies etc)
http://www.geocities.com/harald2002/html/hfracing

i kinda wanted to get back into landmax cars again after seeing Thorbobs great LM1 he's way over me.. (but remember i was seventeen years when i started making my landamax and i only had hand tools..

Lately i have been busy with my 1:1 Golf gti 16v, and prepping it for trackdays etc.

I i get info LM2 i would probably get an all out souped up MP7.5 kanai or something, and convert it to landmax width etc..
pop in a novarossi or rb 1:8 track engine.. make an all out firebreather, compared to the last one..

some pics of my last LM1. could be fun to make this one look like a pile of **** in comparison :)

http://www.hfmotorsport.com/trinity/overview.jpg
http://www.hfmotorsport.com/trinity/radioplate.jpg

[JonA]

Hello Landmaxers!

Hope all of you have had a great xmas!!

HFRacing- Halla! er Oslogutt jeg også : )
It's nice to see that you miss your landmax! I checked out your old pages, and your Landmax looks very nice indeed.. I am looking forward to summer, so i can have a go on dry asphalt with my LM2... So far i have been driving quite a bit in the snow, but the temperatures has been so low that it's not possible to get the engine warm enough to perform right.. Is this common, or is it just another sign of me being a lousy "tuner" ?? We are talking -10 C and down to -18 C... ??

Jon A

[jeroen]

check this out (http://www.novarcproducts.com/thermalcontrol.html)

Answer too your too cool engine temp

Only they do not have it fort eh stock gs21.

So I hope you have a engine that fits on one of these heads

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Jerone,Very cool (no pun intended)

the looks of the polished head are great in their own right....
man, one of these would sure add to the style points and bling factor of the RB c5 (still have not decided on a engine yet) that I might drop into my project lm!

[jeroen]

one of these would sure add to the style points and bling factor of the RB c5 (still have not decided on a engine yet) that I might drop into my project lm!

A RB c5, that would be super cool.

Maybe I want a RB ws7 next year, Or the hole grale CMB rally!

Yes the heads are so cool, but not cheap, 35 $ more then the " normal " novahead.

So I'm not sure wish one I want.

I for example, I can use the stock XTM head in the winter, and the " normal navohead in summer time.

This way I can save myself $35

[SixVi6-Camaro]

JonA.. yes its common. when it gets really cold out the engine just won't get up to a good temp. you could try blocking some of the air going around the head to get the temps up. If you are running it in snow and its landing on the head that will keep it supercooled also. Do NOT lean it out to keep up with the super cooling effect of the snow because if snow stops cooling the head and yo leaned it out it will overheat to meltdown porportions very quickly.

hehe.. I ordered up the New Nova heads for my 24.7. Its a great idea with the multipiece sections and I have a bit of cash left over from christmas so what the heck.

drool.. a C5. I want. just be carefull of those huge heads on high dollar engines. they make more power but if they are over cooled it will destroy the engine. Robin from Unlimited Engineering killed a C5 rody modified with a huge aftermarket head. It wasn't pretty.

John

[belgravekm]

i need some help with a two speed tranny,i bought this a while ago and the instructions seem very vague,so,when i turn the
4mm screw in, i try to be carefull not to go all the way and then damage the shaft,how far in should the bolt be while firing up the engine.i read on previous threads about a guy who damaged two of these units and i definately don't want to go there.setting the shift point seems straight forward but i could still use some tips here for use with the 'mighty'gs21r

hfracing
nice to hear you again,glad to see your still interested in the hobby and the landmax.
so are you gonna go for the lm2?are you going to go for a 'ti ride' ha

[Unobjectionable]

i think it is easier to do the initial adjustment with the 2 speed apart...turn the screw too far in and you risk crushing that tiny spring in there...if you take out the little shift hub part you can get a better feel for how tight that setscrew should be...you will know you are in the ballpark when you can (with some effort) get the shift "finger" out with your own fingernail...just pay attention to how the assembly comes apart, and remember it is better to have it set too loose than too tight...

and happy new year to all, and to all a good night!

[Redfox]

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Happy New Year!

Today was a good day. I ran my RC's for a long time today outside temps about 40*F (it felt like summer to me lol! ). I put a full gallon through between my Maxx, LM2, and .21 RS4 in a school parking lot and playground. Nothing broke on any of them! Not even the RS4! I also got a call from a reseume I droped off a few weeks ago for an interview next week. Plus I got accepted for an up and coming indoor car show called, "The World of Wheels" so I can now say my camaro is a "Show Car" and at the new years eve party I was at a friend of mine paid me back $200 of the $400 he owes me. Its just a good day and great way to star the new year. :)

John

[Jimmy33]

Ok new year - new luck - a picture.....................
Nope I will try again

OK try this website, will take a little time to load - but just a fewq quick snaps of the modified Toyata body (front was too low for off raodingh so I cut the spoiler off - see a picture of an un moded one for a comparison) and a few of the cars in my garage.
:D :cool: :rolleyes:

http://www.geocities.com/storm1948/RCs.html?1041441142330

[jeroen]

Nice cars

I like the corolla, and the rims like nice on them

[KIRK S. DECKER]

SixVi6 (john),
Im a little bit curious about what you said about the heads and cooling the engines too much...I too woried about this.

I am leaning towards an On road c5 (not totaly decided yet) and this engine has a smaller cooling head then its offroad counterpart. If so, I was planning on getting a Nova head (not the adjustable one ). My delemia is if I should get the standard "warm weather" running or the smaller "cool weather" one (which in actuallity is closer in size to the head that comes with the onroad c5). I figured on getting the standard size because Ill most likely be running the car in 60 F or warmer weather and as we all know, the lm bodies do not allow for the best airflow cooling over the head. Any ideas on how well these heads from Nova work? From what info I gathered about the c5, they (generally) seem to operate best around 220-230F. I dont want to get a head that works "too well" thus causing me to over lean and destroy a very expensive mill. Any input on the matter would be greatly appreciated!

Unobjectable,
Its nice to see you back on the board again. Have you had a chance to mess around or run any of your lms lately?

[Unobjectionable]

nope, all my toys have been boxed up for the past few weeks and are likely to stay there a little while longer, until i get caught up more financially and can spend some more money on toy cars! (hehehe)...i still need to sort through everything and consolidate a bit as my collection of rare and exotic kyosho goodies is taking up all my damn closet space at the new place here...i still have a couple things i never finished working on (most notably my crazy fast 2 speed project thing and a landmax ST widened to buggy-width with some leftover/used inferno parts) that i need to complete, as well as all the other hobby-related stuff i need to finish (like the website eheh)

i will try to stay on top of the posts a bit better, i am still getting adjusted to this evil 12 hours a day, 3.5 days per week schedule though...get home from work, eat dinner and it's bedtime...ugh

great pics jimmy, you have a cool collection there, and nice taste in rally cars

glad to hear your year is off to such a good start john, best of luck on that interview!

[SixVi6]

When you put a huge cooling head on you end up leaning it out more to get the temps up and keep it running strong.

now with an engine like the 24.7 that because of the added displacement it needs a larger cooling head there is no harm in one. my 24.7 would hit 300 and still be drooling oil rich on warm days. it clearly needs the added cooling.

now with a high end engine such as an RB C5 there was extensive and in depth testing done. the cooling head was designed for its aplication to be a good tradeoff of power and longevity. by adding a large cooling head you increase the cooling a lot and to keep it running strong and the temps up you lean it out more. It may seem a win win situation. You get more power and longer run time. The engine may run at 230 deg on the outside but the actual exhaust gas temps in the combustion chamber go up a lot, the oil that enters the chamber can burn up before it can do its job and with less overall lubricant in the engine everything in the engine wears faster.

I talked to an ex-Kyosho 1/8 buggy driver about cooling heads and said that he would run large odonell heads or custom made heads back in the day and it was common for an engine to loose all compression after a weekend race with lots of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. for a team driver that wants the win and has a good budget from the sponsors its a good way to make one less pit stop during a race and make maximum power at the expense of destroying an engine at the end of the day. That is when a massive cooling head is good.

I think you might see some higher temps because, yeah I agree, an LM will not have the airflow of a 1/8 on road like what the RB C5 Circuit was designed for but I'd not chance it and get the huge cooling head. I've heard even the LP (short) head that Nova makes for the C5 is still better cooling than the standard buggy head which might be what you would need for the LM. The Nova LP head is shorter than the RB Circuit head but the diamater fo the Nova head is larger.

Here is a link to the thread on the RB board ...
Big head cooling: Rody, is it bad? The Results (http://rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000791;p=1)
you could try posting on the RB board and see what RB says about running the circuit engine on a covered body car.
I hope this helps.

John

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Thanks Unobjectionable! latley its been rough for me working side jobs with my friends home remodeling company and working on neighbors and friends cars (1:1's not Rc's. :) ) I've been home a lot so I've been able to take up the slack from you being busy. :p Its good to see you on the board.

John

[spliffen]

First - Hi to all of you here on Radio Control forum...
Im a total newbe to this rc stuff , and i really need some help with my Rossi engine .
One of the bushings broke down =( , and i dont know what engine model it is , and i guess alot of folks here know alot about engines =)

So please visit my homepage and drop a mail or post here if you know.
There is alot of photos on the page: http://medlem.spray.se/landmax/Rossi.htm

Regards : Fredrik

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks for the input John. The RB board is also very helpful...it really cool to see that Rody himself is answering questions over there. From the info you gave and from the RB board, ill go with the Nova LP head...the added cooling should help with the closed in space of the lm body...and the chrome will go well with my all black and polished aluminum and carbon fiber motiff of my project lm.


Jerone,
How difficult is it to tune the three-speed tranny in the lm?...as you know you have to dissassemble the unit from the LM to do so ( a real pain in the ***...any estimates on a good starting points for the set screws (ie...how many turns out from the tightened position?)...I know ill still have to take it out to adjust it to get it to be tuned to the engine, but im just looking for something to get me in the ball park.

Thanks,
Kirk

[SixVi6-Camaro]

spliffen.. I'd post this on the nitro forum. That Rossi looks like an older one and I'd have no idea where to get a con rod for it.

No problem Kirk. I know, its really cool that Rody himself is replying to posts on the RB board. I can't wait to see your project LM come together. with a C5 powering it is should be one Sick LM.

John

[NitroRookie]

What do you guys think of the R/C in the pic below ?

http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0543-01a.jpg

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Ummm.. that is the LM2.. considering this is an LM forum people here are going to like it.

[jeroen]

Jerone,
How difficult is it to tune the three-speed tranny in the lm?...as you know you have to dissassemble the unit from the LM to do so ( a real pain in the ***...any estimates on a good starting points for the set screws (ie...how many turns out from the tightened position?)...I know ill still have to take it out to adjust it to get it to be tuned to the engine, but im just looking for something to get me in the ball park.

Yeah it really sucks too adjust the 3-speed in the lm.

I've done it about 4 times too set it good enough

I do not have any setup tips,because the 3-speed is back in the madforce.
Only thing that I do myself is: tighten the setscrews so that you think they would be fine for the firtst time,I'll check this by doing a screw driver under the clutch and lift the clutch shoe,and if it feels strong enough, then I'll do the second clutch some stronger.

Hope this can help you a bit

[flix]

hi guys,

I'm still contemplating on the Landmax 2 and was wondering if anybody knows exactly what parts and part #'s(if anybody knows 'em) are required to convert the rally car to a buggy. I'd like to be able to race with others and more people race the buggy format than rally cars around here.

thanks.
flix

[SixVi6-Camaro]

hmm... well I could not tell you the exact part #'s but you would need a lot.. lets see off the top of my head 7.5 buggy upper and lower arms, the front upper arms mount different on the buggies also, the shock towers front and rear, turnbuckles, the shocks, a body, body posts, wing, wing mounts, wheels, tires, buggy universals probably more that I'm forgeting. imo.. Because of the cost of Kyosho parts you would be honnestly better off just geting a regular 7.5 buggy if you intend to do any racing.

John

[flix]

whoa, you may be right about just getting the buggy then. that is a lot of parts. I had thought that it wouldn't take much to convert it into a buggy.

thanks.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Yeah I looked into convering from rally to buggy breifly when I was in the market for a .21 powered 1/8 scale and realized the cost involved. in the end I figured I'd probably not do any real racing and if I did race anything I'd run my .21 maxx. I wanted a full body, .21 powered scale looking RC that could handle parking lots and mild off road stuff so I went for the LM2.

John

[JonA]

Thanks for the help on the "running in extreme cold" subject. I have not had the chance to test your tips yet, but i guess covering the coolinghead from snow and a bit of the cold air would help a lot.. Leaning out the mixture sure didn't help..

I went a bit mad today, and bought me a new T-maxx.. Have never driven a monster before, but i was so fascinated by the jumping and general bashing so i "had to have one" .

I look forward to being able to run my LM2 against my friends at work when the summer comes!!!!!!!

I got a message from the shippingcompany that has shipped my parts from Tower that the parts were waiting for custom clearing in Norway. It's here at last .. I'm a bit jalous of u guys in the usa who can get parts in a couple of days.. Mine took nearly 30.

By the way can anyone identify the parts being used in this picture? I'm thinking of the wheel set up. Are these OFNA tires and rims??

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Thanks Jeroen....also sorry for dicing up your name once again (Jerone?!?!?!).

[SixVi6-Camaro]

JonA..
looks like 7.5 buggy hexes on there and some standard 1/8 buggy wheels and tarmac tires. they doo look like ofna wheels and tires. I'd bet the body on that thing would have to run way high to keep the tires from rubbing and it will have a high center of gravity because of the large diamater of the tires. I thought about a setup like that for off road. the only real problem I can see is that a standard off road header might not clear those wheels. It might if you bent the off road header a bit but it would be tight. The stock engine and header should be fine though but I can't be sure.

John

[belgravekm]

would you believe that i was just runnin my landmax to tune two speed,and as i was setting the damn thing i kept turning out the 4mm screw hoping to hear it shift and then lo and behold no friggin' screw...:mad: the thing just flew out all i saw was the ball
in the two speed unit, sigh.i found the spring it was slightly bent out of shape and i would try to see if i could salvage it.i was wondering if i shouldn't have used thread lock on the 4mm screw
this might have prevented this from happening.so do you think i can repair the spring and use it or shold i get another?
thankx:(

[jeroen]

Me had the same ****** problem

Argh I can not understand it I even loctited the screw a bit
But I lost the spring

So I had too order ahole new 2 speed clutch thing.

I'm still waiting for it,(almost 6 months):confused:

That's why I tried the 3-speed

But I think you can try the spring, it's in a norrow hole, so it can be bent a little in there, not a problem I think.

[Madaz]

found a link to this thread from nitro review. alot of reading here!!its almost like i know u guys already from reading the pages...hehe. heres my landmax history so far

ive wanted a landmax for years and now i have one :) it was a bargain on ebay i picked up a month ago. it came with big blue options shocks (thank god) and a K&N filter but otherwise original. the body hadnt even had ventilation holes cut in it yet.

the first few times i took it out were rather unsuccessful it seemed to use a tank of gas in about 2 mins, the tank had a large hole in it which the previous owner had tried to repair with glue or something?!?!?! I purchased a new tank, 8 wheel bearings and a landmax2 radio box (which ive fitted) and i set up a simple Throttle return spring using a spring from a ballpoint pen :) hehe

Today was not raining for a change so i took it out to some nearby woods and thrashed it on some very muddy tracks which was great fun. Problem was the air filter kept getting waterlogged and car was bogging down and stalled a couple of times. Should i make up a little water guard like ive seen on original landmax filters or just buy an original filter for it? ive been told the k&n filters have no increase in performance and i should get rid of it?

then my reciever switch failed (waterlogged also i guess )and i had no servo power so i plugged my battery pack straight into the reciever to keep me going. the radiobox was all wet inside from condensation or leaks which was a bit of a dissappointment. maybe the little pink condom would have kept the water out better :P

leaving the woods i went to a nice dry road and it was very fast. i managed to skid it along on its roof for about 10 metres after a jump went wrong which wrecked my bodyposts and pins. they were already too short before but now i need replacements badly. Has anyone made some bodyposts that worked or have any ideas or what to make some replacements with?

here it is in action, if i can figure out how to attach a picture.

[french-fry]

Hey Six, got a question for you:

I suppose I should really put this on the Tmaxx board, but I trust you more. I got the XTM 24.7 for Christmas plus the XTM .21 conversion kit. I was curious as to which type of shaft you are using on your 24.7. I got the regular shaft and it seems like there is far too much thread for the Tmaxx clutch and flywheel to fit on it. Am I supposed to cut off the end of the shaft, or would I be better off exchanging it for an SG shaft version?

Unfortunately my LM has been out of commission for a while. My troubles with keeping the transmission/engine in place have come back to haunt me in that the gears on my first gear are decidedly worn out. Hopefully it won't be too long before I come up with the cash to replace them.

Fortunately, despite the fact that both my nitro cars are in pieces, my micro RS4 is entertaining me quite well. It is a blast to drive up and down the halls of my dorm. I would highly recomend picking one up if you find that weather is keeping your nitros indoors.

Thanks for the help,
-Alex

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,

Glad to see a new face on the board. That pick of the lm looks like the real thing...cool! As far as body posts go, i was in the same boat as you and ended up going through a ton of them so I eventualy just bought a bunch of replacements from tower hobbies at one time so i did not have to wait to get back on the road! I am usisng aluminum ones on my onroad lm (mostly for "bling factor") and I suppose you could custom make some out of some round aluminum stock, but I would not recomend it for offroad abuse...in a wreck the forces will probably not bend the posts but the shock towers will probably take the brunt and brake ...bummer. You could probably make some if you found some derlin or nylon plastic stock.

To increase water resistance I do the following for my buggies...before putting the battery pack and reciever in the radio box I place them in seperate rubber baloons. I also bypass the switch and wire the battery directly into the receiver. For extra percaution I use common clear silicone to seal all openings of the radio box (lid, antenna holes etc.) i also use rubber sealed servos and dab a big gob of grease on the servo output shafts. Since I started doing this (for running the buggies in the rain, snow, mud, etc) I havent had one more single radio glitch. I make sure to unseal my radio box and let the electronics lay out in the open air after running to make sure there is not any condinsation left around.

Kirk

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Fry..
Yes you will have to grind a bit off. I could not tell ya how much as I usually use the SG shafts (but on a maxx the SG shafts require shortening also). just go slow, grind a bit off, wipe it clean and mount the flywheel and all on and see if ths pilot shaft fits on all the way, if not take it apart and grind more. also put the engine into a plastic bag then have the shaft punched through a hole in the bag. This keeps any metal shavings from getting into the engine. oh and o be safe, before you start, plug the inlet and exhaust with a piece of paper towel before you start even if you use the plastic bag trick.

Madaz.. good to see a new person on the board! I love that pic. the problem I've heard with the straight K&N filters is that they allow a lot of fine dust to get into the engine. on a 1:1 the particles are so small as compared to the engine and normally people don't drive in dust and rist that much that it doesn't matter. On these RC's, that are run constantly on dust and dirt it can let too much through and wear the engine. I run the Paris K&N on my .21 Rc's (I don't blieve they are being made anymore though). Its a K&N filter with an outer foam to keep the fine stuff from entering.

John

[Madaz]

glad u liked the pic, courtesy of my fiance, she was watching and taking loads of pictures, most of the closer action photos were too blurry due to its incredible speed!! :)

i will order a couple of sets of body posts and an original airfilter and see how long it takes ripmax to get them here in the uk. hopefully soon.

bye.

[jeroen]

Nice too hear, you enjoy driving the lm

I like the action picture

As for the K&N filter, I only use it for onroad, If I go offroad(also wet tracks) I use the stock filter with the special raincap on it.

Hope too drive my lm this weekend in the snow and some ice racing also.

I only have too make it ready for some wet action

[french-fry]

Saw this on ebay:
http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/lm2.jpg

If you just search for "landmax" it should come up.

I didn't know they made the LM2 with the Lancer body. I couldn't even find it on Kyosho's website.

And darn it, just when I get 10 bucks to order new gears, tower is out of them. Oh well, guess I'll have to keep myself busy with other stuff, like school.

-Alex

[Jimmy33]

I don't think any body knew. But it is nice. I wonder is kyosho have anything else planned...................

I will be on the road again soon with a new engine, but I have to chose between m Kyosho £70 tuned pipe and my Civec pipe. Ohh the choises :D :cool:

[NitroRookie]

What are the Pros and Cons of the Kyosho Landmax 2 w/ Subaru Impreza WRC body(MP 7.5 Rally) ?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Pros..
.21 powered and built for it
*MP 7.5 based so its very tough and has lots of hop ups
*Its big and fast
*has a great scale look (the other 1/8 buggy based Rc's look like crap imo)
*the best parking lot basher I've ever had (100x better than my SNR)
*the king of rally car powerslides.. soo much fun to drift it around corners

Cons..
*price.. the kit is expensive, the parts are expnesive but they don't break often unless you do something like crash into a curb head on at mach 10
*the LM2 uses a nonstandard wheel so there are not a lot of wheel and tire choices.
*drifting around corners wears tires really quickly

I got a web site for my LM2 Right here.. Kyosho Landmax 2 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/pics.html) lots of pics and info to see.


fry.. wow, I had no idea that had a Lancer hmmm... I hope theyhave more cool bodies comming out. my suby body is getting beat.

John

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Awhile back on this thread there was some discussion and experimentation with some optional tire choices for the lms. One idea was to mount the proline rear buggy 2.2 "road rage" tires (dont have the mfg. # on hand right now) onto the standard lm rims....they looked trick and worked well but didnt "fit" quite right.
Well after some researching(i think i saw an article in one of the rc mags that mentioned using 2.2 buggy tires on other rims) and some brainstorming, I think I came up with a solution. I found that the road rage tires fit almost rerfectly onto the original Kyosho Superten (not the FW04) 2.2 rims (these come in two sizes with the front being just a bit more narrow than the rear ...i found that the roadrages fit better on the wider "rear" ones). i used the foam inserts that came with the road rage tires. Now to make these work I needed to drill out the hole for the for the wheel bolt and (the more complicated part) mill out some 12mm hexes that fit the axle pins and replced the larger 19mm lm hexes. I also remember that just a while ago someone posted that there was some 12mm hex conversions available that might be avaiable saving any custom work. Also if these12 mm conversions only work with the "standard" 17mm buggy wheel hex setup, i have seen where www.nitrohouse.com sells conversions which allow one to convert the "old style" kyosho inferno 19 mm wheel bolt/hex (like on the lm) into 17mm hexes...so theoretically 12 mm wheels should be able to be put onto the lm giving an unlimited choice of wheel and tire combos.

as for my wheel set up, it still will be several weeks before I can test my setup because I still have aways to go on my onroad project.

[Madaz]

Kirk

i saw some tyres on an ebay auction here is the description:..... A set (4) of road tyres for 1/8th buggy ,17mm hexagon drive.These are the latest from medial Pro (tarmac2). These tyres are almost solid rubber mounted on wheels.

i emailed the seller a few days ago and asked about the size of the tyres, he replied saying:
Width:40mm tyre diameter:92mm wheel diameter :75mm

they looked like they would be suitable to me but i wasnt sure so i didnt bid on them. here is the link and a picture incase it doesnt work.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1200&item=3104621678&rd=1

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
Those tires would work on the lm, but you would need the 17mm adapaters that I talked about im my last post (i think ntrohouse carries these)...but you would have some problems talked about elsewhere on this board...
1. Because these are buggy wheels (much bigger than lm), i dont think the lm bodies would fit...ofna (haebo?) makes a 1/8 onroad car (the "Ultra GTP" ???or something like this) which is basically a 1/8 buggy (unlike the lm uses the buggy's wide arms and suspesion components) with onroad tires...i heard the car handles well (because of the width) but is made from inferior parts and is basically junk....also the bodies for these cars are out of scale to fit the "buggy" tires and suspension and look quite silly (Playschool plastic toy cars come to mind). There are also other companies over in mainland Europe (Bergozzoni? as an example) which make "rally class cars" which again are 1/8 buggies with onroad/rally tires that are raced on circuts with both tarmac/offroad...popular over there i guess. From what I seen these cars have bodies which look a lot more to scale than the ofna "toy" bodies.
2. Again, because of the larger wheels, you change the lm center of gravity, probably for the worse especially if you dont change the a arms to wider buggy ones.
3. Also, i think there was some concern of the stock engines (gs21r) header being able to clear the buggy wheels.

If you check on the previous page of the board (i think??) there is a pic of a lm with onroad "buggy" tires mounted on it. It does look pretty cool, but im not sure how great its handling would be.

[Madaz]

medial pro tyres

kirk, the description says 1/8 buggy wheels but i i was going by the measurements the seller told me. my landmax wheels measure 90-92mm outside diameter and according to him the medial pro tarmac2 are 92mm. The actual rim size is larger but the lower profile tyres shouldnt affect the centre of gravity or the gearing at all. The guy said they are 40mm wide which is also the same as standard landmax width.

My only concern was the different size hex and the offset may be different causing the tyre inner to rub on the exhaust pipe or the front steering arm where the tie rod bolts on. (my standard tyres are glued a bit uneven on the inside and already rub there.)

i might check their website again and have a proper look for some specifications.

cya.
Madaz

here is the medial pro website. look under rally game tyres...
http://www.medialpro.com/GB/index2.htm

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Madaz,
Sounds good...let us know how they work if you get them. As for the hub adapters I have a brochure from www.nitrohouse.com that have a picture and description of "19mm to 17mm hub adapters" which are $9.95 a pair US. They are basically the same 19 mm hexes that are on my 1/8 buggy (with the outside lock nut) but have inside threading that allow you to bolt them on to the axle.. "mounted on your burns and infernos". They look like they would work perfectly. They list the part number as #86000 which I think is an OFNA mfg. number. Nitro house ph # is 1 949 830 0304 for info, and 1800 928 0304 for orders.

Let us know what you find.

[french-fry]

Those tyres, err....tires, ;) do look pretty cool.

On a completely different subject, do you guys think my LM2 with 2 speed could beat a Serpent Impulse?


And this is completely random too, but cool all the same:


http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/lexussmall.jpg


-Alex

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Those medial Pro tarmac 2 tires should work fine after you get the hexes changed. they are very low profile. most all standard buggy tires are 116-120mm. all other buggy tires I've found would be a tight fit or raise the center of gravity too much for my liking. I just can't find anyplce that has carries medial Pro in the states.


Fry.. I doubt an LM2 would win that. a 2 speed LM2 has a 2nd gear gearing of 16/43. I bet it tops out at the high 30's to 40 mph. I'm running 18/44 on my single speed 24.7 LM2. The serpent is lighter and is geared for more speed so depending on the serpents engine (and nobody puts a junk engine on a serpent that I know of) it would probably be very fast straight up to 50+mph.

John

[KIRK S. DECKER]

MEdial PRo tarmac 2 tires can be purchased from www.rcdiscounters.com for $24.95 pair US. These tires come premounted and they come in all the available "compound hardnesses??".

Might have to check these out!

[SixVi6-Camaro]

nice! Thanks Kirk! I may just have to get a of Tarmac 2's now along with some buggy 17mm buggy hexes. They have also got a seriously cheap price on the Fioroni 7.5 chassis. hmmm.. that would look and perform nice compared to the stock Lm2 chassis. Hmmm. decisions.. decisions.

John

[french-fry]

I might have to get some of those just because they are French!

[Madaz]

no need for wheel hex adapters, on the website they make the wheels with 19mm and 17mm mounting also available in yellow! and 40mm or 44mm wide.

tyres come in 4 hardnesses. i might have to get the hardest compound so they last for ages and do good powerslides. hehe
ill wait till i wear out my original tyres first.

nice lexus pics alex, they look like rc cars! i have one of those bodyshells which i used to have on my TC3 but it is wrecked now.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

I see that Medial Pro offers both the 19mm (like the lm) and 17mm wheels...but Im going to bet that the pre mounted ones offered by rcdiscounters here in the US are going to be the more popular 17mm size requiring the ofna #86000 wheel adapters (i confirmed that this is the ofna # of these parts by checking a couple of different hobby sights). What do you think John?

Im sure these wheels/tires are probably going to be the best performance ones for available for the lm..especially for onroad...even the price is great...$24.99 a pair mounted..heck stock lm rims are about $13.00 /pr with slicks costing an additional $23.00.
Im with you , I think im definitly going to have to get some and try them out!

[jeroen]

I see you guys are bussy, discusing different tires.

I like the proline once's, as a replacement for the kyosho too expensive tires

I did some ice/snow racing today.

I liked the lm's on ice.

Maybe I do it again tomorrow, too make some pics and vids of it.

It's not so fast on ice with the stock engine.
Maybe I'll buy the O.S RZ engine.
What do you guys think about that engine?

[NitroRookie]

They'll probably say it's a good engine. But they will most likely try to get you to get an RB S7 or WS7 engine.

[Madaz]

what type of glow plug should i get for my stock gs21. mine failed today and i dont know anything about different types. Its cold weather here if that should be taken into account.

cheers for any advice....

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Jeroen,
I think you should go with an RB s7 :D ...good performance/reliability to price ratio...of couse the OS rz is a good engine too, especially if you got the cash.

[speedydave]

Hey SixVi6(John), what do you like more, your LM2, or your .21(or is it .247?) T-Maxx? There's a deal on jeep's FFH's B/S/T from a reputable guy for an LM2, pretty new, for $245 shipped. I have a 2.5 T-Maxx, so I dont know if I'd enjoy this or not. I have a 1/8 buggy(Mugen XR Works) too, and I know I'd pick my buggy over my T-Maxx if I could only have one, but I'm thinking about saving the T-Maxx for the racetrack only and picking up this LM2. What do you think?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

the ofna adapters #86000.. I'm looking into it still. I was going to take a trip to the LHS to today take a look at a 7.5 buggy and MP hubs because I've been told that since the LMs use an 8mm axle a standard buggy 17mm hex hub should work. I want to make sure before I buy anything though. hopfully tomorow I'll be able to check that out. if the standard buggy hubs don't work I'm going to order up the Ofna adapters.

jeroen.. Any engine in the higher dollar range is going to be good and powerfull. be it an S7, OS rz, Picco's they will all have great power.

Madaz.. I've had good luck with Mccoy MC-59's. you could also use just about any hot plug but I like the 59's the best for the GS21.

speedydave.. I can't say I like one more than the other. I like each for their own things. I live in a well devolped suburban area so most of the driving is done it the many surburban parking lots, parks, streets, baseball fields, and construction sites. The maxx is the best on the rough stuff construcion sites, parks with woodchips, tall grass and sending airborn over ramps. the LM2 handles the parking lots and smooth dirt trails and baseball diamonds. I only ocasionally race either one on practice days. the LM2 get the on road tracks. $245 is a good deal for an LM2 though. Is it a Pugeot body LM2? I was soo close to buying one on another froum for $245 but decided against it.

John

[speedydave]

Yeah, Sorcerer(Brendon)'s Peugot 206(I think) LM2. Jeepinator said hes a very good guy to deal with for buying stuff. $245 shipped is a very good deal...when I get the money, I think I'll take him up on it(if my parents let me, that is). I have my FTGT and XR to race, so this would probably be bashed around school grounds and stuff. I guess it should be a good car for the job! :) Thanks!

EDIT: BTW, whoever was asking about engines, I would think the Ofna 8 port race would be good. ;)

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Yup That would be This LM2 (http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2bm2j/pics/junk/bp_001.jpg). I hear he is a good guy to deal with as well. he's been trying to sell it for a while now on the smaller RC car boards. Its a really good deal I'd go for it if you can. It would be perfect for bashing around school grounds.

[speedydave]

Yup, that's the one. I told him I'm interested. Waiting for his reply, and some more pics via email.:)

[french-fry]

Yep, looks like they only have the 17mm:

> Regarding the Medial Pro 1/8th Rally Tarmac IAS Tyres, item #J22060/0, what
size hex nuts do the wheels have? I know Medial Pro makes both 17mm and 19mm,
and I was curious as to which version you will be selling. Personally, I am
looking for 19 mm hexes.
>
> Thank you,
> Alex
>



--

Wheels have a 17mm hex. We can not seem to get 19mm wheels anymore.
Mike/RCD

Guess we'll have to find out how those adapters work.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

The "19mm to 17mm" adapaters (OFNA #86000) bolt right onto the axle using the existing wheel bolts. The rim slides over the adapter and is fastened down by a 17mm hex nut (just like a ofna, mugen,gs storm NEW inferno buggies.) No modifications needed to the axle.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I went to the LHS to see if MP hubs or 7.5 hubs would work on the LM axles. It won't... unless, you modify the hubs. The hole for the pin in the axle is closer to the bearing on the LM's vs most other hubs. I was given a set of 7.5 hubs (freebie! heck yeah) from a guy that works there. So first modded two of them by elongating the holes for the pin. problem is I don't know how strong that will be because of the elongated hole It may break the hub but we'll see. the other two hubs I actually went to a friends house and used a drill press and drilled new holes on another side of the hex in the correct position, this worked perfectly.

Most buggies have a set screw that holds the pin in place. the LM's have the wheel nut setup sooo I went to the hardware store and picked up some set screws that threaded in where the wheel nuts went to be sure the pin is locked in there. Now I just have to get the tarmac wheels and some wheel nuts. too bad I don't just yet have cash for them so it will have to wait.

Also I contacted RC discounters about the availability of the 60 shore hard compound Tarmac tires. They said they do not have them and have been waiting for them for a while. the only ones that do have are the softer 35 shore.

[Redfox]

Hey ppl! Haven't been on this thread for ages!

Nice to meet you Madaz... like everyone has already said, good to "see" new ppl on this thread!

Well i haven't run my LM for what seems like months now. It's still all oily and dirty from the last time i ran it. I think i need a job, because this hobby is just too expensive without having a source of income!! The GS21R has pretty much packed it in. Almost no more compression and the pullstart is in bad shape. I don't know what i should do with it. It would be a shame to get rid of. How much do you think i could sell it for here in australia? I dunno if i should get a new piston and sleeve and pullstart... I think maybe i'll get rid of it and later on i might buy a new LM2...

On another note, i've been really happy with my GS Storm Pro... it's a very cool car and the Thunder Tiger Pro21BXR engine i got in it purrs like a kitten and runs great! For anyone who is still runnin the GS21R and hasn't run another .21, then i don't think you realise what you are missing out on. I might one day throw the Thunder Tiger in the LM for a spin! The major probs i had with the LM were the engine and gears i think...

Btw, the cool thing about the GS Storm Pro is that everything is designed so well! It's very similar to the MP7.5 and therefore the LM2... it has identical diff housings front and rear and to get into the diff you just unscrew 4 screws and the front panel slides out allowing instant access!! No more taking off absolutely everything like the LM1...

Anywayz, good to see you guys are getting up to no good with these tyres! Always has been a source of frustration hasn't it! That was one reason i really wanted a 1/10 scale in the beginning... they had so many tyre and body options. Kyosho bodies for the LM are just daylight robbery i tell ya!!!

I'm rambling now... hehe catch y'all later :D

[Madaz]

thnx for the welcome.

i have now read the whole 54 page thread and the epic tales of your landmax, i got lots of tips from reading about the mistakes and successes of everyone, hehe

i look forward to the day i get a new engine, i cant imagine why i would want to go faster!!!??? I fear i may write my car off as mine seems plenty fast atm:) (well maybe a bit more acceleration would be good)

camaro that sounds like a bit of work. im gonna try and get some medial pro wheels with the right size hex straight off. ( after all this effort i hope the wheels look right with the landmax body!)

getting a glowplug tommorow so im hoping for fine weather.

bye

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Yeah it was a bit of work but I got the hubs for free so what the heck I made them work. The Ofna adapters made specifically for the conversion are the best answer for us that can't get their hands on the 19mm hex wheels. Also if I don't like the look or performance of the Tarmac wheels at least with the 17mm hex versions they will be very eazy to sell.

John

[Jimmy33]

I might one day throw the Thunder Tiger in the LM for a spin!

Done it!!!!!!!!!!!! but I put it back in my buggy because I now have an .21 OS pullstart engine bnut I havn't run it though. I recommend it!!!!!! :D :cool:

[KIRK S. DECKER]

John ,
You order those tarmac II yet?...or waiting for the 6o shore to come in stock. Im not sure what shore i want to go with...I think they recommend 35 in rear and 45 in rear (on the medial pro site) but I also want the tires to last more than a day...I guess ill do the cheezy cheapo thing ( I've already spent wat too much $$$ on this project lm) and wait to get a "product review" from you guys befor buying them myself :) ...so keep us updated.

[speedydave]

Anyone put an 8 port in one of these? :D If so, how was it?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Kirk,
Nope I havent the money at the moment. I just bought a nice big ol' flatscreen TV so I'll have to wait a few weeks until I catch up with my bills. Even if I had them now I'd not run them because its just been brutally cold here! high temps in the teens and lows in the single digits to 0*F with some strong winds. I can stand temps around freezing and just below but man this is just too cold for me especially with the wind.

speedydave,
Yup I had an 8 port in my LM2 for a short time. It moved well, much better than the GS21, but I went from a stock 24.7 to an 8 port and I just missed the massive low end of the 24.7. So I sold the 8 port soon after. Contrary to what people say the hyper 8 port does not have a ton of top end. The 8 port is still a low/mid range power buggy engine. It has only just a bit more top RPM over a stock 24.7. Ovarall it was a great engine. the only problem I had was breakin was rough. Use a starter box if you can. the P/S is very tight on those engines.

John

[JonA]

Hello!

Great work on the wheel hex/rim/tire bit! Please keep us updated!

I stopped by my LHS on friday, and picked up a Lancia Stratos body for my LM2. Have not got the proper wheels to go with it, but i will see how it looks with the ones i have before i order the yellow stratos rims from tower.

I have not painted it either, but will post a pic of it when i'm done :D

How many litres/gallons of fuel did your GS21r engines drink before it started to loose compresion?

Mine has been through about 3 gallons, and it's not performing as well as it once did. Is this normal?

JonA

[speedydave]

John, what engine would you recommend then, or should I just re-gear if I get the 8-Port? I want to stay away from the .247, but the Hypers seem to be nice sport engines(the Hyper 21, too). I have a starter box, but it's lined up for my Mugen XR(I don't know if the LM2 would line up). Besides, I'd only use it to help with break-in...if I'm going to bash, I dont want to carry a starter box around to play with my LM2. :)

[SixVi6-Camaro]

speedydave...
the 8 port is a great all round engine. I'd go with that. The starter box is jst good to have for break in on the hyper. you can break in the hyper w/o the starter box but its hard on the pull starter and your hands. after its broken in the pull start is all you'll need though. For gearing.. well stock is 15/44.. I'd just drop a 16 or 17 tooth in there instead and you should be very happy. If you are running it in large parking lots you can even go with an 18t. I run in large parking lots so I end up with the 18t most of the time on my LM2.

JonA...
Yeah my GS21 began to show signs of power loss around 3.5 gals or so. I ended up putting my GS21 onto an HPI NRS42 as a permenant resident so I rebuilt the GS21 at that time. The GS21 is an ABN engine so the longevity will not be as great as an ABC engine.

John

[XysteR]

Hi all,

I've been away for a while now and thought i'd have a few mins on the forum with your good selves :-) Firstly, some of my last post were mainly to do with a project i was working on (1/4 scale buggy) I unfortunately had to end the project due to losing my job so i passed it on to a friend for a few quid. So for now i'm back to my good old trusty landmax mk1. I kinda knew my GS21R motor was feeling sorry for itself infact the whole car was. Feeling sorry for it i took the plunge to clean it all up and breathe new life into the motor by spending 60 euro on a new piston & sleve. I've just finished fitting it a few hours ago and i'm now waiting until tomorrow before reassembly cos i'm needing some new spray oil to oil the crankshaft bearings etc. Anyways, Its all well and good with the rest of the car and i did fix a small fold in the very front corner of the chassis. I'm glad to see the landmax forum is still very active and no doubt you'll be seeing me here a little more often although as from November the 21st i became a dad and at the min shes a lil bit demanding to say the least. Anyways i'll answer JonA's question:

It all depends really, if you suspect that your losing compression an easy way to test this is to remove your glow plug and turn the flywheel with your fingers. You should feel a tightness/pinch when the piston reaches T.D.C (top dead center) If you dont then you almost certainly need a new piston and sleve kit. Its really easy to replace these and if you need any help just ask on here. Be warned though its quite expensive for a new piston & sleve kit. Oh by the way.. If you do buy a new piston & sleeve kit "DONT" throw away your old piston & sleve. If you keep them and when it comes that your second piston & sleeve are also on their way out you can sometimes match up one of the old pistons into one of the old sleeves thus saving you some money ;-)

btw. Heres a picture of my landmax. It's looking a lil tatty but these things can never stay brand new looking. Anyways, mechanically its sound and thats all that matters.

http://users.pandora.be/lee_and_vicky/subaru1.jpg

Also Heres a picture of my GS21R with my old piston & sleeve bagged up for a possible free future piston & sleeve kit ;-)

http://users.pandora.be/lee_and_vicky/subaru2.jpg

Have fun, bye for now

Xy.

[performula]

I was checking out ower and they said the Landmax is discontinued, but has the Exxon truck for 299.99. Is this the same version as all of you are talking about or are you talking about the 7.5 buggy type with the Subaru body?

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Performula,

The exxon truck is the older (now mostly discontinued) landmax1 which was based on the on the Turbo Burns Inferno. Although officially "discontinued" most of its spare parts will probably be avaialble for the next few years. The Subaru landmax is a landmax 2 and isbased on the newer inferno 7.5 buggy.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

Here is a link to the Landmax 2 at tower hobbies. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LA2615&P=1)

I don't know why but somewhere along the line somebody messed up the name.

[KMack215]

I just finished building my new LM2 (WOO HOO!!) and i'm ready to do the body. What is the color of the impreza. I want the closest match to the real car. The directions say Mica Blue but i can only find that color in Tamiya paint. I'd prefer to use pactra. What did you folks use? If you can post a picture of the finished product that would help me in getting my stickers right.

OH! btw....any words of wisdom before i take it for a spin?
This is my 7th Nitro car so i don't need the newbie advice.

Thanks,
KMack

[XysteR]

Hi Kmack215. If you look at my post above you'll see that i done my LM1 in metallic blue from tamiya. I tried numerous colours first and found this to be the closest match to the 2000 & 2001 WRC Impreza's. Advice for running a landmax for the first time: Very important!! Check the tightness of your cylinder head. Make sure they are torqued down good & tight. Check the 4 engine mount screws underneath for tightness.. Infact remove em and threadlock em in nice & tight. Keep an eye on the high speed screw. sometimes they can be a little bit slack and vibration can cause em to lean themselves out which is a bit of a panic. Erm.. thinkin.. Oh if your using the pullstart often make sure you use afterrun oil in your motor after each and every run cos the one way bearings in the pullstart can be a real bitch if neglected. Erm, thinkin' somemore.... Can't think of anything else but if i do i'll post. Btw i know you aint a newbie but make sure you do all these checks i've listed as they are all problems i encountered only a few hours after completing my LM1. the LM1 and LM2 are really the same anyways so all tips from us LM1 ownerz are valid too.. Final tip. After run-in dont be too temped to thrash it straight after a few tanks.. build up speed tank by tank after run-in as you lean it out to a good running setup. Oh & have oodles of fun cos your gonna love this car more than any other.

Xy.

[KIRK S. DECKER]

K Mack215

I used pactra metallic blue spray can (RC 265) backed with indy silver and the color is a pretty close match to the actual 2002 "Scooby". (The car is not "mica" as per kyosho...I think their box art photos of their paint job look kinda lame). Another thing which kinda let me down is that the kyosho decals are more yellow than the true fluorececent yellow-green of the real racer. Take a look at some of the rally sites on the net and compare the Subaru to the kyosho box art and you will see what i mean.

(I dont have a camera to post pics..the car did come out looking sharp...even after some heavy duty thrashing).

If you really want to get particular you can dye (dont paint...itwill chip and never stay on) the white rims with RiT dye (you can get a gold color by mixing a couple different colors per instructions on their web site.) My rims came out a little more of a bronze than gold in color but on the real car the rims are more of a "brushed" orange/gold than a highly polished gold mirror finish.

Fianlly, take alot of time with the decals...use pics from the box and on this site. All the decals fit perfectly, but the two big gold "swirls" on either side are a real bitch to get perfect (without bubbles and straight), but once you get these on you can reference the other decals off of these and get everything to fit right. Also, you might need a blow dryer to slightly conform the tail lights to the rear curves to prevent any bubbles....sorry for all the rambling...I hope this helps some.

[XysteR]

Just a few quick questions. Will the landmax MK2 impreza body fit straight onto my landmax MK1? I'm thinking of getting the LM2 wheels also. I'll use the LM2 shell & wheels for display perposes mainly and my old shell & wheels for thrashing. Oh & btw after my new piston & sleeve dies on me i'm gonna depart company with my GS21R and go with something else. Probably an OS motor. Something quick, reliable and longlasting. Which motor should i be looking at to upgrade?

Xy.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I looked at pics at swrt.com and found that the paint looks like a metalic blue and was darker than the blue streak paint that I bought for my LM2 originally. so.. instead I used a coat of metalic blue. then a couple coats of blue streak. then couple coats of white as a final backing.

John

[Jimmy33]

Oh & btw after my new piston & sleeve dies on me i'm gonna depart company with my GS21R and go with something else. Probably an OS motor. Something quick, reliable and longlasting. Which motor should i be looking at to upgrade?

Yes I now am using for a OS Max-21RG with a kyosho tuned pipe. (with a pullstart) My other car usies a Max-21VZ-R and a Civec Pipe. I also have a Max 21RZ-V01b

all are great engines and much better than the standard GS21. I am now using my landmax off road again should I take the 2 speed out?? :confused: Kyosho say yes but Rpimax say no... any Ideas?

And yes all the bodies and wheels are interchangerable!

[Madaz]

jimmy it sounds like u have some nice motors:D i cant wait till my LM has a new decent nitro eng. ive only driven two kyosho powered buggies


About the 2speed Gears.... i dont know coz i havent got a 2speed but id say use the single speed to save your 2spd from getting damaged by stones etc.

Have u ever compared the CVEC pipe to the tuned pipe? is there any performance difference? I plan to buy a nice cvec C170 to replace my stock OLD!!! pipe. I want to get the best pipe for more power!

Madaz

heres a pic of my muffler in its sorry state. hehe

[Jimmy33]

Thanks. Over the standard pipe either will make a performance increase. However on the LM1 the exit on the muferler is on the oppersite end so you will have to drill anbother hole in the side of the body. I would go for well both but thats just me!!!! The civec I recon is better for ragging and the kyosho for racing... and in my post I got the right engins with the wrong mufferlers, they are the other way round :D

The Civec pipe is cheaper ands gives a much 'deaper' 'rawety' souding engine note, where as the tuned pipe sound much more like a racing engine sound. I have only done a direct comparison once and that was when I got them.

I have to get pictures of both to compare them - one is the Alfa Romea shell, decked and with all sorts of aluminium and graphite up grades the other is almost stck, apart from the engine and mufferler and is used off road with the Toyota body, which is the one I have pics opf. I race the Alfa in europe and I did take to toyata last year to a rlaly race which was fun! Both have a 2 speed, both are LM2s one is in Germany at the moment with my uncle (the Alfa - thats the reason for now pictures!!!!!!!! :rolleyes: )
Oh yea - my longest post ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cool: :D

[JonA]

Hello!

I am now almost finished with my Lancia Stratos body, and i thought you might like to see it?

I am going to tint the windows and make some holes in it for cooling. Have not made holes for the body posts either. Might add a sticker or two more as well, but i don't want to overdo it..

I have not got an airbrush,so i had to use cans. The bullet on the side is a sticker, but the checkered pattern is spray.

What do you guys think? I hope it looks fast enough to scare my friends at work, and maybe give me an advantage that way:cool:

I really need that because of my lack in driving skills:D

Jon Anders

[KIRK S. DECKER]

Jona,

YourStratos body looks trick and original....plus you saved yourself much headache and heartache....I did my Stratos in the "box art " form and it took over 7 agonizing hrs. to to get all of those decals to fit perfectly on the body...then two days later I ran the car UNDER a cyclone fence and pretty much trashed about 25% of those decals:( I got some more of the Stratos stickers and now use the body for display only...if you still have the decals you might want to pick up an extra body for display in the future (especially if you can find one cheap some where) the body and decals are so detailed they make it look more of a scale shelf model than a basher.

[XysteR]

Nice lancia JonA. Its not my "cup of tea" by way of looks cos i love the original rally look and i like to keep close to that scale look but for that style of paint job it looks great, well done

Xy

[SteinR]

Hei Jon Anders. Hvor befinner din LHS seg? Har de flere Stratos karosserier? Jeg er ute etter et Stratos karosseri, men Small Size sier at de er ute av produksjon:(

[JonA]

Kirk- Sad story on your Stratos body.. I fear i would have done excactly the same. My driving and lots of decals is not a very good match:confused: I find the decals very difficult to position as well. Have not tried the "window cleaner"/soap water trick, but i kinda fancy the custom look, so its not that important:D

XysteR- Thanx for the comments on my Stratos :)

SteinR- Nice with another viking on the forum! I use most of the Hobby shops in Oslo. Depending on what i'm out to get.
I have also asked SmallSize about LM bodies, but all they say is that they are no longer being produced.. I find that kinda strange when you can buy them at TowerHobbies...
I found the Stratos body at "Autoco Bærum AS/Fjernstyrt hobby". They are situated on Rud in Bærum. Their phone number is 67177102. I doubt if they have more Stratos bodies in stock. They just started selling Kyosho kits, and what they have in stock seems very random. Give them a call and check it out! I hope you dont mind that i try to answer you in "english"... Not sure if the rest of the guys on the forum speak Norwegian:D

[SteinR]

No problem about the language - apart from some miss spellings on my side ;)

The reason for taking it in norwegian was due to the actual content and that you didn't have any e-mail address stored in your "preferences". I actually registered only to ask you that question :D

I've been reading this thread for a couple of months. My main interest is 1:8 off road and Rally Game conversions, but I find the scale apperance of the LM cars more appeling.

[JonA]

Hello!

SteinR-I'm sure that my english isn't great either, but it won't get any better if i don't practice. Did they have more Stratos bodies in stock? Sure hope you find one. If you can't find it in Norway, why don't you order it from Tower? They have it in stock.

Anyway, here is how my LM2 looks with the Stratos body and the Impreza rims/tires(yes i know they are dirty):D My Tmaxx is standing beside it.

Have a nice weekend everyone!!

Jon Anders

[Jimmy33]

Hello everybody. I am off to buy a new landmax now as mine met with greif during a race this weekend. Running the rally car with a scuby body and 'lovely' gold rims, and I had one of the biggest crashes ever. NOTHING is worth keeping except the bits which hold the body seel up on the posts. Full throttle, (2speed) OS engine must mave been doing at least 60-70mph (off road), and the front suspention collapsed car started summersalting and rolling. Body mashed, chasssis destorys, the rims were well ripped to shreads... Me really SAD! :( I will try and post some pictures of the reckage if I can see through the tears!. Luckily I still have the Toyota Bodsy and silver rims so I will see if my mate at the LHS can do me a deal without the body on a new one - but then what to go with the GS21r engine - keep it or spend more ona a new engine I think I will keep it for now... cannot affoird another engine, and my spares are with the other car in Germany!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad: Anyway to to spend more money! :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(

[turbochrgdRICE]

awww man that sux...crashing your Ladmax...wanna send me the broken parts?? please...haha :D :p


...i was just kidding...unless you're juss gonna throw away the parts then ill take em ...

[Madaz]

hi all, Bad luck jimmy! hope u stopped crying now so u can start the repairs :eek:

Nice statos shell jona, that reminds me of the back to the future car but its a nicer shape than the delorean, i notice the back of the body looks like it may have a parachute effect if u know what i mean. i would drill some vent holes in the rear panel to stop the air turbulance u may get. I drilled several 10mm holes in my escort back panel coz i like the stock car look and to aid cooling.

Today i tested out my new glow plug and it started like a dream, however my mixtures are all messed up coz i was playing with them when i had the faulty plug in thinking that may have been the cause. i could hardly get it to idle long enuff to fit the shell:confused:

then i did fit the shell but it started idleing really high and had less power. almost like the brakes were on slightly!! i havent touched the idle speed screw, carb is still about 1mm open.
i think i will print out a good guide to tuning and take it out with me next time i drive coz my memory obviously cannot cope with the complex science of fuel mixtures!!!! :/ it doesnt help that i drive in a really muddy road and my airfilter likes to collect mud not air!

i bought the cvec pipe (very smart) but the shop didnt have any 90' bend rubber joiners so it will have to sit on my desk till i get one or make one out of something. Anyone have a suggestion for an alternative (i may try a bit of garden hose, hehe)

heres a pic after i cleaned it.... the air filter...

[Madaz]

budget air con......

[Redfox]

That is one dirty max!!!!! Ick, i would not like to be the one cleaning that! :p

[Jimmy33]

Ok got the new Landmax built and set up. I am using the servos on the old car as they seem to be in good condition but a new reviever and crystalls. Run it in to nigh on 8 tanks of 10% and 8 tanks of 16 ! Took ages but soun great now. The tuned pipe has been saved and some other bit. The body I am leaving unpained for now (Scuby) and I will do in time. Got to wait for the weekend till I can 'rag' it again in the field! Oh yes!!!!!!! :D :cool:

[Redfox]

I'm veyr happy for ya mate! Hope you have a bit more luck with this one. You got the LM2 right??

[Jimmy33]

Yea it is the only one my LHS can get!! :D

Good ol' ripmax!!!!!! :(

[sebtarta]

This is the 1st time posting about my landmax. I bought mine in '98 and I still have it running like a charm. It is still mainly stock, except that I added the sway bars and the aluminum bell crank. But for all the rest its still stock.

I must say I have pushed the car to its limits, hit the snow, mud, dirt, asphalt, trees, curbs you name it, and only broke one front suspension arm. :D:D:D The engine is the old GS 21R, change the piston and sleeve twice I think.

Well, to make it short, I was wondering if the radio tray and RX box from the LM2 will fit in the LM1?? Also which nice performance shocks are there in the aftermarket world??

Another question, which is a good combo for diff silicone weights all around? Front - Center - Rear diffs??

Thanks for the help.
Good luck, :)

[Madaz]

seb, the radio box from the LM2/MP7.5 fits fine on the LM1. i fitted one on mine about a month ago. u do not need to buy the LM2 servo plate, just cut the original radio plate at the right point and it screws onto the radio box.

About the shocks, Mine came with "Big Pressure Blue Shocks" by kyosho. (Dont know the correct name or part number sorry) they seem very good quality and they have a rubber sleeve to protect the shock piston shaft from dirt. I would recommend them.

SixVi6-Camaro has suggested some diff oil grades which i intend to try in mine when i can get some. L