Kyosho V-One S and V-One R v2.0

[Sparx]

One more question on the K Factory upper carbon plate. :)
On some sites i see it it says that it uses another recieverholder. Is that right? :confused:
Cause my car is waaay to heavy right now. and tries to shave off some weight.its tanium pillowballs and axles in titanium right now on it right now. gong to try a 4 cell reveiverpack or oreder a OFNA Brick Pack later.

[uaerc]

Sparx

I just got my v one a set of Power Tyres..30mm at the rear 32hardness and 26mm front. with 30 hardness. My HPI 200mm Flareside Ford F150 body just arrived today from tower looks pretty cool just hope it fits on correctly.

What all have you ordered......I beleive u need the front one way as well with the neg. diffs and the axel ? Kingwillie can guide u and me on this........... what say king wille.......

Regards

Aziz

[Sparx]

hmm.. i have Ordered Neg. diff. i have kyoshos V-One S one way and Solid rear axle. also have a Tom's Solid axle thats 7 grams lighter. Kawahara Ti Pillowballs I have all axles in Ti and some brackets in alu. Now i'm waiting for the order of the Neg. diff and some other goodies :)
We have some things to order later. Am searching for 3racings Oneway also. Ti screws and stuff are going to be ordered too. all Ti i can find. hehe.

I have a friend that has a Mugen MTX-3. His car was 2 ( :eek: ) grams over the limit STANDARD. with Ti Pillowbals it was 6 grams under. The limit in Sweden is 1700 grams by the way.

[NiMo]

Now I understand the weight issue, 1700 grams is lights.

UK weight is 1750 grams, and my 'R' with no liteweight Titanium or alloy bits come in at 1778 grams

[Sparx]

The Swedish rules is all messed up.. The cutting in the rear cant be higher then 45mm with the car standing on a 10mm spacer. no body can go thru with the molded in line. also the total heihgt of the cra is too low. The wings cannot be bigger then 40 mm measured in the cord.. my Stratus wing was 48 mm when cut in the molded line..
The next season i hope that they go over to EFRA-Rules.

[Sparx]

oh.. the 45 mm limit is the cutting from the ground to the rear spoiler

[NiMo]

At least in the UK the Touring Car rules are a bit easier.
Wing chord - 50mm
Roof height - ? (no rule)
Rear Cut Out - not above the lower moulded bumper line
Rear Wing height - ? (ruling was ditched - wing can be higher than roof line)

We may not have Foam Tyres / Turbo Motors / exposed motor shells / outlaw exhausts, but it looks like our touring shell rules are friendlier.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Cool thanks. Do you reccomend sealing the diffs with some sort of sealant or is the gasket good enough? I don't want any leaking fluids. We are going to build it right the first time.

If you put it together right it won't leak. Maybe when you take it down either seal it up or use a new gasket. Personally I change gaskets.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
One more question on the K Factory upper carbon plate. :)
On some sites i see it it says that it uses another recieverholder. Is that right? :confused:
Cause my car is waaay to heavy right now. and tries to shave off some weight.its tanium pillowballs and axles in titanium right now on it right now. gong to try a 4 cell reveiverpack or oreder a OFNA Brick Pack later.
If you use the K-factory upper plate you'll need to buy a new tank. I wouldn't do it. Get the 3 Racing radio plate, cheaper and works with all the stock stuff.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by uaerc
Sparx

I just got my v one a set of Power Tyres..30mm at the rear 32hardness and 26mm front. with 30 hardness. My HPI 200mm Flareside Ford F150 body just arrived today from tower looks pretty cool just hope it fits on correctly.

What all have you ordered......I beleive u need the front one way as well with the neg. diffs and the axel ? Kingwillie can guide u and me on this........... what say king wille.......

Regards

Aziz

I tend to run my front tires about 5 to 10 shore harder than my rear tires, I pray for a little oversteer, or faster rotation. All you need is the neg diff and the front one way, no other pieces involved. Although I did get the 3 RAcing aluminum pulley for the rear and the front diffs. They are really nice.

[Sparx]

Originally posted by KingWillie
If you use the K-factory upper plate you'll need to buy a new tank. I wouldn't do it. Get the 3 Racing radio plate, cheaper and works with all the stock stuff.
Hve been to a race now and the car is now 1797 grams. limit 1700.
I know i must have a new tank for K Factorys upperplate. the reason i asked is because i can buy one really cheap.

[Matlock]

Originally posted by KingWillie
..... Although I did get the 3 RAcing aluminum pulley for the rear and the front diffs. They are really nice.


I've been looking at the 3 Racing pulley's(And other parts) and they seem to be a steal for the price. But I was wondering what kind of weight difference there is between the stock plastic pulley's and the aluminum ones? Is it very much?

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Matlock
I've been looking at the 3 Racing pulley's(And other parts) and they seem to be a steal for the price. But I was wondering what kind of weight difference there is between the stock plastic pulley's and the aluminum ones? Is it very much?

They are slightly heavier, but longevity, slipping belts and cutting belts are improved. Plus they look really nice.:cool:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
Hve been to a race now and the car is now 1797 grams. limit 1700.
I know i must have a new tank for K Factorys upperplate. the reason i asked is because i can buy one really cheap.

I don't know what the weight diff is between the two tanks. I have one of each as my son runs the Reflex. I could take them to work tomorrow and weigh them if you like. Can get weight accurate all the way down to micrograms. Can't weigh the radio plates as we have no spares for those. Let me know if you want the weights. ;)

[KingWillie]

Did anyone race this weekend? How did you finsh? I finished fourth in our A-Main, after breaking the front belt with about a minute to go. Fell back from 2nd to 4th.:cool:

[Matlock]

I did. But they changed our track and my setup wasn't cutting it. The car was all over the place. I didn't get to race in my main because the clutch nut went loose on me. Couldn't get everything running before the main started. Oh well, we have a new permanent track opening up next weekend, maybe I'll do better there;)

[Sparx]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Did anyone race this weekend? How did you finsh? I finished fourth in our A-Main, after breaking the front belt with about a minute to go. Fell back from 2nd to 4th.:cool:
I raced. came 11th after missing the Main with 2 laps ater the semis. :( The reason is that i have Rubbertyre wheelaxles and runs on Foamtyres.. have ordered Foamtyreaxles now. :)

[Matlock]

I was wondering what you guys would recomend to lighted up my V1R? I'm looking to make my drivetrain lighter first, then just work from there. I did see some hollow ti. mid & 2-speed shafts on the Square webstie, but I would like to get it in the states if I could.

[NiMo]

Did anyone race this weekend? How did you finsh? I finished fourth in our A-Main, after breaking the front belt with about a minute to go. Fell back from 2nd to 4th.

Guess I was a lucky one.

Qualified 7th in the main, got to 5th on 1st lap, held station, them at 2 minute mark it rained, only I stayed on track, race abandoned at 4 minutes with me 3 laps up on second.

I WON!!!!

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
Guess I was a lucky one.

Qualified 7th in the main, got to 5th on 1st lap, held station, them at 2 minute mark it rained, only I stayed on track, race abandoned at 4 minutes with me 3 laps up on second.

I WON!!!!

Well done Nimo, you run rubber in the rain? What tires were you on?

[NiMo]

Actually it was Foam tyres (Fast Tires 42front 40 rear)

Thought I'd try the open (foam + outlaw) class for a change.
Car was full rubber set up (Protoform Vectra, Rossi S1, 5.2 stinger on pipe, 16% fuel, contant 4wd) with Foam tyres chucked on.
Guess the regular foam racers don't know how to drive in the wet.

[KingWillie]

NImo: what do you think of the Vectra body compare to the Stratus 2.1? I was having some issues with too much wing on the Stratus, understeer at speed.

[NiMo]

I tried the Stratos 2 and found the car would flip over halfway through a corner, same as the Chrysler 300.
if you want good turn in with rear grip then use the Stratos 1, but if you find that a bit too much then go for the Vectra.
Another advantage with the Vectra is that the rear with has a curved mounting point instead of the normal flat mounting allowing you to place the rear wing at an angle of your choice.
The only other shell I like the performance of is the Kyosho BTCC Astra, so I may try out the new HPI version (half the price).

[NiMo]

Oops! spelling mistake.

It's Stratus for Dodge , Stratos for the Lancia.

[Jimmy33]

yea finnaly got my V one S and I got a 2nd hand R as well (no engine for £160)

My S currently has a tunder tiger carbon effect shell with gold wheels (tacky but looks good - I will post a pic some time next week) :rolleyes:

What I need though is a good kyosho shell for the cup! :cool:

Don't like the Astra or the mugan though - the 911 is nice - and thoughts on the handling? and I think I have ask this (if so point me back through the thread!) but what up[grades are recomended for the cup? :p

[StevO]

Hey guys! :cool:
I´ve a question: Is the 2-speed transmission profitable for the v-one S? Because it´s not very cheap, so I had to think about the buying.....but nevertheless, i´ve one now!:D (Hope it is worth the money i spent for it)
and another question: How fast can you get with a 2-spped transmission for the V-one S??? Does the tuning pipe give more power and speed, too??

Thanks for helping me!!! :)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
I may try out the new HPI version (half the price).

You know the HPI bodies all look so good, but their lexan must be less than 0.3 as I find they flex a bit too much and I still crash quite a bit. Take that as they won't hold up like the Protoform stuff.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by StevO
Hey guys! :cool:
I´ve a question: Is the 2-speed transmission profitable for the v-one S? Because it´s not very cheap, so I had to think about the buying.....but nevertheless, i´ve one now!:D (Hope it is worth the money i spent for it)
and another question: How fast can you get with a 2-spped transmission for the V-one S??? Does the tuning pipe give more power and speed, too??

Thanks for helping me!!! :)

If your ready to race the two-speed is the best investment you can make, besides foam tires. If your not ready yet, run the stock set-up until you think your ready. If your running the stock engine the KYOSHO optional pipe will help, not tremendously, but you can tune it for more top end power. You could try the dynamite series of pipes also, cheaper and they have a straight through pipe that will fit, i.e., no coupler needed.

[uaerc]

Originally posted by KingWillie
You know the HPI bodies all look so good, but their lexan must be less than 0.3 as I find they flex a bit too much and I still crash quite a bit. Take that as they won't hold up like the Protoform stuff.

Yeah I agree with that. I have Protoform with my V ONE RR Dodge Stratus..(if i got my spellings right). and beleive me with a full throttle head oN with a Brick....I lost the chasiss ...spur gear. THATS IT ! paint is gone off the front of the body but the body is intact.

I drive in a vacant car park and someone had left a brick in the middle of the road I just didnt see......it.......HOW could i it was dark ! :)
hehe

well cost me about a 100$ to get it setup again but the body is just great. although i got a HPI Ford F150 Flareside just to cruise around the block ! ;)

just was down at my LHS today checked out some new parts...TDS Gear set for the metal differentials......the whole lot cost around 170$ maaaaaan that was too much ...........is that worth it ? He recommended me not to go for the front one way.........what does that do ........and why is it so important for the rear neg. diffs.

Regards
Aziz

[NiMo]

Don't like the Astra or the mugan though - the 911 is nice - and thoughts on the handling? and I think I have ask this (if so point me back through the thread!) but what up[grades are recomended for the cup?

911 is a bit tail happy (like the real thing).
Astra is the best for handling.
You could try the Nissan (looks like a shoebox) Skyline.

Upgrades:
Upgrade the standard 'S' radio deck to the Carbon 'S' version so you can use the 'R' fuel tank (standard 'S' tank has fuel pick up problems).
2-speed + 15T and 19T pinions and 39T 2nd gear spur.
Other upgrades are up to you.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by uaerc




just was down at my LHS today checked out some new parts...TDS Gear set for the metal differentials......the whole lot cost around 170$ maaaaaan that was too much ...........is that worth it ? He recommended me not to go for the front one way.........what does that do ........and why is it so important for the rear neg. diffs.

Regards
Aziz

No, you just don't need all that stuff, really try to squeeze the most out of the car as is, the two speed and foam tires will give you the biggest bang for the buck. I don't know if the neg diff will fit the v 1 s, can't help there. When you can really race the thing look at the front one way, turning is a new experience with it as is braking.
However, by the time you can wring the most performance possible from the S and you can tune a chassis you'll probably start wishing for a new car. I say save your money for tires and spare parts after the two speed. You'll probably change cars before you need more performance than it can deliver. Concentrate on driving now. Spend a few bucks on the XXX Main set up book and some set up tools or a whole set up system. If you learn to set the car up well and race it well, you'll kick everyones butt without all those extra parts. They are fun to put on the car though. :cool:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
How3 cold does it get where you race?

Here in the UK we still race when it gets below freezing point (as this picture of me (in winter gear) from our web site shows)

http://www.amcc.org.uk/nigel2.jpg

Here in Richmond, VA it rarely stays cold for long, but we had our fair share of SNOW this year. Right now in the low 80's F, but you look happy with all that gear on. :D

[Saboteur]

Wow. Racing in all that cold takes true guts.

[KingWillie]

By the way, nice hat.

[ponky_wonky]

hey everyone!!! im back fomr my long RC winter break!
i fixed up teh v-one-rr after school today and boy is she pertty, im going to be racing my friend who has an mtx-3 =O!!!
ill let you kno how it goes=) later for now everyone, and hope u all had a nice winter/srpinf :D

[KingWillie]

Hey, Ponky. Hibernation is now over eh?:D

[ponky_wonky]

yup =) hehe
i was drivinvg my v1rr against my friends v1rr! lots o fun, lol, no mtx3 though, the guy ddint come=(
god my v1rr has crazy top end but almost zero low end! and also, the engine is running very rich, when teh car is idling fuel is spitting out of the pipe=/ is this normal/ or should i lean in the high end needle in 1/16th turns every few minutes till there is no fuel spitting out thxs for any replies=)

[KingWillie]

No, you don't want fuel spitting out the stinger. Do you have a temp gauge? If so try to tune for 230 to 260 F. Then adjust your low end needle and then the idle.

[Saboteur]

Lean out the LSN. BTW did you have enough to eat before the hibernation? :p Time to start scarfing down that yummy track food..hehehe. j/k :D

[ponky_wonky]

heheh, aight, thxs guya
tomorrow ill lean out the low speed nedle but for now im gonna go rest my ass

[Jimmy33]

Hi - here are some pics of the two bodies I currently have for my S (I know the BMW is illegal for the KWC)- What is the handling like for the Chevy body?


http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/117061/Photos2023.jpg

[Jimmy33]

http://members.villagephotos.com/viewimage.asp?id_=2968495

The first scuby

[Jimmy33]

http://members.villagephotos.com/viewimage.asp?id_=2968496

[*Thursday]

Does the V-One S carbon upper deck use the same linkage? If so, does it come with instructions on how to reroute it? If not, does it come with linkage?

[Sparx]

Originally posted by *Thursday
Does the V-One S carbon upper deck use the same linkage? If so, does it come with instructions on how to reroute it? If not, does it come with linkage?

The linkages on the carbon fiber deck is different and comes with all the instructions and hardware to reroute it.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
heheh, aight, thxs guya
tomorrow ill lean out the low speed nedle but for now im gonna go rest my ass

Ponky, only mess with the LSN if you are happy with your HSN setting as every change on the HSN will alter the LSN.

[ponky_wonky]

aight willie, thxs

on a side not :
i noticed some binding in my drivetrain on saturday and today i took my drivetrain apart and i changed one of the rear 19teeth pulleyts cuz it was defrmoed, lol
anyh00, all i hafto say is Oh My God! my drivetrain is sooooo sm000000th now!!!! i feel so happy, lol
w00t!

[Poindexter]

I just "switched over" from the NTC3 camp. I bought the VoneRR relatively inexpensively on eBay, and took the time to set it up for our track. KZ Speedway likes a lot of camber (-3) front and rear, and a lot of toe in the rear (2.5 degrees). I used Nitro Shoes, 42 26mm front, and 40 30mm rear. I ran, of course, a Stratus body--awesome downforce and super cornering on this very high speed track. I did pretty good--the car ran great and handled fabulously. I was contending for the second spot in Sportsman, but a judicious splash of fuel into my receiver from my pit guy ended my race... Car ran off straight into the fence!!! Note to self: "re-apply" shoe-goo over the receiver crystal opening in the receiver tray...

Anyone have any good ideas regarding protecting the receiver? A balloon? Thanks!!:D

[Saboteur]

VoneR's finally discontinued from Tower. :( Looks like I'd now have to save for the RR kit w/stratus body.

[TheScum]

Anyone got more info on the V one RR Evolution?

here's a tech drawing got off a swiss forum...

[TheScum]

Anyone got more info on the V one RR Evolution?

here's a tech drawing got off a swiss forum...

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by TheScum
Anyone got more info on the V one RR Evolution?

here's a tech drawing got off a swiss forum...

The V1RR "EVO" should be available in July 2003, whether Tower will have it in stock or not is always questionable. Also there will be a V1RR "EVO" kit to bring your V1RR up to the EVO updates, no word on release of the kit. The major difference looks to be an adjustable roll center included with the new front bulkheads and suspension arms. There is also a graphite radio plate, improved one-way and a few other pieces.:cool:

[ponky_wonky]

how much will teh evo upgrade kit for my V1RRgt cost?
*CND dollars*

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
how much will teh evo upgrade kit for my V1RRgt cost?
*CND dollars*

Don't know yet for the upgrade kit, but the car is supposed to be about $20 more than V1RR.

[Sparx]

Better pic of RR EVO for you that has'nt seen it :)
http://joybox.fc2web.com/shs03640.jpg

Find more here: HIT ME! (http://joybox.fc2web.com/shs03_kyosho.html)

[PCC]

I don't like the way they moved the RX to the side of the throttle/brake servo. Makes it vulnerable to side impacts. I do like the way they moved the steering servo down to the chassis, though. Looks like a conversion kit will involve a new chassis as the steering servo saver will need a lower mounting point to make it work.

[Sparx]

Found this at RCmodel.com too

A EVO conversion wil be available in July and comes with these things

7075 Hard Main Chassis (Optional Parts for V-One-RR Evo Kit)
Carbon Upper Deck (Optional Parts for V-One-RR Evo Kit)
Separated Front Bulkhead
Servo Saver Set
Soft Tower Bar
1st Spur Gear (0.8M)
2nd Spur Gear (0.8M)
Front One-way shaft
Front Swing Shaft
Middle Shaft
Front Suspension Plate
1st Pinion Gear
2nd Pinion Gear
6x10x3mm Ball Bearing
2nd Clutch Shoe
2nd Clutch Weight
2nd Clutch Spring

[Poindexter]

I raced my Vone RR again at KZ Speedway this weekend, and was doing extremely well in the expert class (running 5th out of 11 cars--that's pretty good for me!) until I was rear-ended after I slowed for a crash--a car crashed mid-corner, and I called the crash while I stopped; not three seconds later, I have a Serpent 705 up my a**! Oh well. That's racing...

Anyone know a good source for VoneRR parts? I need the rear shock tower with the floating body mount. Thanks!

[Sparx]

Poindexter
I buy nearly all my parts from RCmodel in HK because it's cheaper (alot) and sometimes faster then from my LHS that alwasy does'nt have the parts in stock
LINK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk)

[Sparx]

sorry.. dobl post

[Saboteur]

Your right! I've NEVER seen foams that cheap!! :eek: Looks like another awesome place to add to the list to order stuff from :D

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Sparx
Poindexter
I buy nearly all my parts from RCmodel in HK because it's cheaper (alot) and sometimes faster then from my LHS that alwasy does'nt have the parts in stock
LINK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk)
Sparx, how fast do they ship from HK to the US? Is it a safe site? Thanks!

[Poindexter]

Here are my current settings:

Rear:

3 degrees camber (neg), with 2 degrees toe-in

Rear diff filled with 15k silicone


Front:

2 Degress camber (neg), with 1.5 degrees toe-out


What do you guys think? The car is a little tail happy (on a very fast course), but it turns in oh-so-sweet! What are you guys using in the rear diff? Should I try a solid spool?

[Sparx]

I have no idea to US but to Sweden it takes most 4 - 5 weeks.. if they ship it right away i have it after 2-3 weeks

I have shopped at RCmodel 5 times now and nothing spooky has happened :)



A setuptip for everybody: try 50.000 or 30.000 silicone oil in the rear diff. It makes the car more easy to drive fast. kind of a medium solid axle :)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Here are my current settings:

Rear:

3 degrees camber (neg), with 2 degrees toe-in

Rear diff filled with 15k silicone


Front:

2 Degress camber (neg), with 1.5 degrees toe-out


What do you guys think? The car is a little tail happy (on a very fast course), but it turns in oh-so-sweet! What are you guys using in the rear diff? Should I try a solid spool?

Is this the V1RR? What tires are you running front and rear shore ratings? Which holes are your shocks mounted in? What springs are you using? What wt oil is in your shocks? How much height are you running in the front and back? What are your front and rear droop settings? How are your upper rear camber arms mounted, which holes?

Stay away from the solid rear end it will only hurt your cornering and kill your tire wear, think about the Kawahara Negative Diff instead for the best of both worlds.;)

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Sparx
I have no idea to US but to Sweden it takes most 4 - 5 weeks.. if they ship it right away i have it after 2-3 weeks

I have shopped at RCmodel 5 times now and nothing spooky has happened :)



A setuptip for everybody: try 50.000 or 30.000 silicone oil in the rear diff. It makes the car more easy to drive fast. kind of a medium solid axle :)

Sparx,

Thanks! That's a good idea (about the diff oil). I'll also give RCModel a try.

What about the camber, toe, etc.? Our local track resembles european tracks--it features banked corners, rumble strips, etc., along with a ferociously long back straight (our 1/10th scale cars regularly hit 55-57 MPH on the back straight). Thanks!

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
I have no idea to US but to Sweden it takes most 4 - 5 weeks.. if they ship it right away i have it after 2-3 weeks

I have shopped at RCmodel 5 times now and nothing spooky has happened :)



A setuptip for everybody: try 50.000 or 30.000 silicone oil in the rear diff. It makes the car more easy to drive fast. kind of a medium solid axle :)

I have been purchasing from RCModel for over a year with consistent sucess. EMS shipping arrives 4-5 days after they have processed your order, I am in Richmond, VA, USA. If you tell them to rush your order they will, very nice! Also they accept PAYPAL, you can't loose. Prices are great on most items you can't beat them. Especially TIRES!!!!:cool:

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Is this the V1RR? What tires are you running front and rear shore ratings? Which holes are your shocks mounted in? What springs are you using? What wt oil is in your shocks? How much height are you running in the front and back? What are your front and rear droop settings? How are your upper rear camber arms mounted, which holes?

Stay away from the solid rear end it will only hurt your cornering and kill your tire wear, think about the Kawahara Negative Diff instead for the best of both worlds.;)

King Willie,

I run 26mm front, 30mm rear, and either 42f/40r or 40/37 (depending on temperature, etc.). Our track is very "grippy" if you stay on line, so anything softer than 37 is too much. I have tried 42/42, but that wasn't as good as the 42/40, though if it gets much hotter (it was 85 this weekend), I might try 45/42.

I run Associated Gold rears and Copper front springs (with the VoneRR shocks, of course)--I don't recall what shock holes I use in the front or rear (I'll have to have a peek tonight). I run 4mm front ride height, and 5mm rear. I don't recall off-hand what my droop settings are.

I've been thinking about the negative diff (I've read back a few pages)--my only concern is that it adds a bit of rotating mass/weight; have you noticed any reduction in trap speeds? I know that top speed isn't everthing, but the old rule of "going fast in the fast parts" applies here too; wherein we can make up a lot of time by setting the car up for the fast sections of the track. Your thoughts and opinions are very much welcome! Thanks!

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Poindexter
King Willie,

I run 26mm front, 30mm rear, and either 42f/40r or 40/37 (depending on temperature, etc.). Our track is very "grippy" if you stay on line, so anything softer than 37 is too much. I have tried 42/42, but that wasn't as good as the 42/40, though if it gets much hotter (it was 85 this weekend), I might try 45/42.

I run Associated Gold rears and Copper front springs (with the VoneRR shocks, of course)--I don't recall what shock holes I use in the front or rear (I'll have to have a peek tonight). I run 4mm front ride height, and 5mm rear. I don't recall off-hand what my droop settings are.

I've been thinking about the negative diff (I've read back a few pages)--my only concern is that it adds a bit of rotating mass/weight; have you noticed any reduction in trap speeds? I know that top speed isn't everthing, but the old rule of "going fast in the fast parts" applies here too; wherein we can make up a lot of time by setting the car up for the fast sections of the track. Your thoughts and opinions are very much welcome! Thanks!


I think you'll like the neg. diff. it will not hurt top end, if anything you may notice it's there in a fast sweeper or if your running same tires front and rear in a hard stop and go, but I have experienced ZERO problems with it. Entering turns, its like having a normal diff and powering out after youv'made the turn it's great with the lock up coming in after the turning is done. Almost a can't miss product. It means a couple of extra grams haven't weighed it, but it feels slightly heavier. I run 5000 wt in the diff side and have shaved 1/8" off the shoes for the track I race on. You can get spares, from Japan for outdrives and shoes if you ever need them.

I run the Fantom Red Springs all the way around, 1.7mm. Just made this change recently, improved fast corner stability and turn in. I'm using 40wt oil all the way around although I am contemplating switching to 50 up front with the Fantom Springs. Ride height 5.5 up front and 6.0 in the back. I raised the back when I started running the Stratus 2.1 from Proline, the dam Down Force on the Rear is incredible at Speed. Droop in front is about 1.5mm and rear is non existant. I think I need to let the Rear come up a bit more on the back as I can get some push power off entering tight corners from a long straight. Need to transfer more weight forward for the tires. I ran 45/45 and 45/42 last week plenty of grip. got a little skatey 45/45, 26mm/30mm.
I'm running Zero camber front and rear, what have you noticed from your camber changes, affecting the car how? I have 1 degree toe in(negative) on the rear and 1.5 degree toe out on the front (positive). Almost forgot, recently switched to the red 3d clutch shoe and fantom spring. Cranked down on the spring to get more punch coming out of corners, works GREAT. I'm trying to make these changes one at a time so I can evaluate them, but it's so hard to keep from messing with more than one thing at a time.

Tell me more about what you think the camber did for you.;)

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by KingWillie ....
I'm running Zero camber front and rear, what have you noticed from your camber changes, affecting the car how? I have 1 degree toe in(negative) on the rear and 1.5 degree toe out on the front (positive). Almost forgot, recently switched to the red 3d clutch shoe and fantom spring. Cranked down on the spring to get more punch coming out of corners, works GREAT. I'm trying to make these changes one at a time so I can evaluate them, but it's so hard to keep from messing with more than one thing at a time.

Tell me more about what you think the camber did for you.;) [/B]

I sense that you feel that negative camber is unnecessary....

If I run less camber, the tires (especially on the outside) will cone in a negative fashion. Of course, too much camber would have them coning as well (affecting the innermost part of the tire). The set-up allows for maximum traction while still mainting decent tire life. There are some very fast right-handers (leading onto the straight and coming back off), along with some decent left handers that necessitate the negative camber. With zero camber, the foams would last maybe a couple of laps before the left side (outside edge) tires wore to the wheel... Different story with rubber, of course--but nobody here runs rubber anymore.

What type of track do you run on?

I, too, have the spring on the Centax "cranked in" a bit, but I actually had to back it off from my initial setting as I was getting a bit too much tire spin on some of the tighter corners (running a Novarossi S3). I am picking-up an MR12 this week to see how that goes--so far, my favorite has been the Sirio .12 in my 1/10-scale race cars (I ran one in my NTC3), but the S3 has had some serious top-end.

[NiMo]

I have no idea to US but to Sweden it takes most 4 - 5 weeks.. if they ship it right away i have it after 2-3 weeks

I've used them 3 times, 1 at 6 days, 1 at 5 days and 1 at 2 days (posted 7th May, received 9th May)

I pay them using paypal and have had no problems (apart from an out of stock part).

Thoroughly recommended.

I'm still waiting on the UK importer to deliver parts ordered back last October (which I have since got from HK).

[NiMo]

I've been thinking about the negative diff (I've read back a few pages)--my only concern is that it adds a bit of rotating mass/weight; have you noticed any reduction in trap speeds? I know that top speed isn't everthing, but the old rule of "going fast in the fast parts" applies here too; wherein we can make up a lot of time by setting the car up for the fast sections of the track. Your thoughts and opinions are very much welcome! Thanks!
The Negative Diff allows you to put the power down harder and earlier, which in turn gives you a higher top speed/or top speed earlier.
Negative Diff is the best option part for the car, it almost eliminates spin outs under power, if anything it gives slight understeer under power, and if it rains then you can kiss the opposition goodbye.

[Sparx]

Recieved my latest order from RCmodel yesterday and got everything besides a Negative diff that was'nt in stock and shold recieve it by airmail in a while :)


About Camber and Toe-in.
I use 3 degrees camber in rear and 1-2 in front. Have tried more upright also but with that the tires wears more on the outside. with 2 or more camber it wears straight
Toe is 0,5 degrees out in front and 2 in rear.

I've also tried Serpentshocks ( externally adjustable ) with success in front. The rear serpent shocks are too long and the fronts are too short to use in rear. I'm going to try Xray-shocks in rear instead :)


Another thing. My Rear bodymount has a big amount of play. it's this part that has a too large hole. http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/images/products/ml-vrw-6.jpg
Rear bodymount support
The plastic-one was good in the beginning but started to wear and i bought this in alu but it wasnt better. What do i do? i have been thinking about put a piece of shrinkingtube or tape the axle it goes on..

sorry for the huge pic..

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Poindexter
I sense that you feel that negative camber is unnecessary....



No, not at all. I'm thinking of adding some and I was curious if you could really tell much difference with it.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
Recieved my latest order from RCmodel yesterday and got everything besides a Negative diff that was'nt in stock and shold recieve it by airmail in a while :)


About Camber and Toe-in.
I use 3 degrees camber in rear and 1-2 in front. Have tried more upright also but with that the tires wears more on the outside. with 2 or more camber it wears straight
Toe is 0,5 degrees out in front and 2 in rear.

I've also tried Serpentshocks ( externally adjustable ) with success in front. The rear serpent shocks are too long and the fronts are too short to use in rear. I'm going to try Xray-shocks in rear instead :)


Another thing. My Rear bodymount has a big amount of play. it's this part that has a too large hole. http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/images/products/ml-vrw-6.jpg
Rear bodymount support
The plastic-one was good in the beginning but started to wear and i bought this in alu but it wasnt better. What do i do? i have been thinking about put a piece of shrinkingtube or tape the axle it goes on..

sorry for the huge pic..

They're all that way.

[Sparx]

OK. I'm going to make a new axle instead that is a bit larger. we'll see if it gets better =)

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by KingWillie
No, not at all. I'm thinking of adding some and I was curious if you could really tell much difference with it.

King Willie,

It improves traction--especially in high-speed corners where there will be some chassis "roll." If you don't add negative camber, the tire will try to roll on itself, and will wear much faster on the outside edge ( a reverse cone).

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Poindexter
King Willie,

It improves traction--especially in high-speed corners where there will be some chassis "roll." If you don't add negative camber, the tire will try to roll on itself, and will wear much faster on the outside edge ( a reverse cone).

Did you find the neg camber to the front tires to add to the steering turn in, say coming off a long straight into a sharp corner off power. I know the theory I was wondering what you think of the results? I'm going to give it a go, just curious.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Did you find the neg camber to the front tires to add to the steering turn in, say coming off a long straight into a sharp corner off power. I know the theory I was wondering what you think of the results? I'm going to give it a go, just curious.

Well, I can't really say because I use a front one-way and I've never really tried it with much less camber (although I tried -3 up front before I reverted to -2). -3 was too much and I feel that steering deteriorated.... With the current settings, the turn-in is very sharp from a high-speed straight into a low-speed corner.

Let us know how it goes for you! :D

[NoPepsiForYou]

hey, I am looking at buying my first nitro car (I have had electric for about 5 years now) and I am going to buy the V-one-S. My question is, what other stuff should I buy with it? I know stuff like fuel, radio, glow plug and glow starter but what else?

thanks for your help!:)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NoPepsiForYou
hey, I am looking at buying my first nitro car (I have had electric for about 5 years now) and I am going to buy the V-one-S. My question is, what other stuff should I buy with it? I know stuff like fuel, radio, glow plug and glow starter but what else?

thanks for your help!:)

Get a starter box, skip the silly hand starter and the pull starter. Its the greatest investment you'll make towards having fun with a Nitro Car. Get the two speed for the V-One S also. My neighbor has one and its made a big difference in his fun level. Oh yeah you'll need tires too. Foams for racing and rubber if you like. Summer temps you can run 42F/40R just a starting point. I think you have to run 26mm tires on the V-One S, but Nitro Shoes have a 30mm wheel with 1 or 2 degree of offset which will work on the Rear of the S.

[Sparx]

If you're going to run 30 mm foams on a V- 1 S, you have to buy new longer wheelaxles that mounts the Hex more out on the Axle. I hope you understood :)

[Sparx]

Got my Neg. Diff today and noticed one thing in the manual.. I can bild it after the pics on the paper but theres one thing i don't understand. On te backside of the paper there is pic of the diff and there is a hole that it is a arrow to and it says something in japanese i don't understand + in the middle of the sentance there is the word CRC. So.. What is the hole that is in the diffcase for?
:confused:

[Jackal]

I'm sure every V1S owner has faced this problem. A friend of mine had changed it to a Hyper10 two speed transmission set(both spur gears plus Cam) and it worked fine. So does anybody know what other two speed transmission set that can be used to replace the original set on the V1S?

[Jackal]

Originally posted by Jackal
I'm sure every V1S owner has faced this problem. A friend of mine had changed it to a Hyper10 two speed transmission set(both spur gears plus Cam) and it worked fine. So does anybody know what other two speed transmission set that can be used to replace the original set on the V1S?
Another friend of mine, Lue had put something in it in order to rectified this problem.

[NiMo]

V1S second gear (spur) easily worn out.

Easy solution that works.

Knock the pin through the hole further so that 1mm protrudes on the inside edge (no more shredded plastic and/or catching edge of pin).



Got my Neg. Diff today and noticed one thing in the manual.. I can bild it after the pics on the paper but theres one thing i don't understand. On te backside of the paper there is pic of the diff and there is a hole that it is a arrow to and it says something in japanese i don't understand + in the middle of the sentance there is the word CRC. So.. What is the hole that is in the diffcase for?

Not sure what that hole is for, but i have ignored it for over a year with no side affects (maybe it's for cooling or debris removal).

[Sparx]

And...... What diff-fluid do you use in your neg. diff? i am goning to try Kyosho 1000 wt silicone oil.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by Sparx
And...... What diff-fluid do you use in your neg. diff? i am goning to try Kyosho 1000 wt silicone oil.

I run mostly on Rubber so set up may be different.
fornt diff 30,000wt, rear diff 600wt.
Front shocks 2 hole (drilled to 0.8mm) 800wt.
Rear shocks (drilled to 0.8mm) 350wt.
Springs vary from track to track
Front R roll bar
Rear no roll bar
Chrysler 300M shell with Stratus 2.1 rear wing (50mm)

This set up allows you to run same front and rear tyres/inserts.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
And...... What diff-fluid do you use in your neg. diff? i am goning to try Kyosho 1000 wt silicone oil.

I'm using 5000 wt in my neg diff, I like it with a bit more resistance when it goes off power.

Hey Nimo: I bought the Pro-Line Crowd Pleaser 200m, it has much more front downforce than the Stratus 2.0 or 2.1, you may want to give it a go when you have the opportunity.

[Jackal]

Originally posted by NiMo
Easy solution that works.

Knock the pin through the hole further so that 1mm protrudes on the inside edge (no more shredded plastic and/or catching edge of pin).
Does anybody know any other two speed transmission from other brand that can be fitted to the V1S?
I'm afraid that the solution above can only work temporarily.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by Jackal
Does anybody know any other two speed transmission from other brand that can be fitted to the V1S?
I'm afraid that the solution above can only work temporarily.

I have done 4 race meetings of 3x 5 min qual, a 1x 40 min final and practice on the same spur gears, that's over 3 hours 45 minutes of hard running on the same spur gears (and still going strong).
If that is only temporary then .........

[mckrooz]

I need to find this online. I tried rcmodel.com already. Any other websites you recommend?

[Sparx]

After a hell of a season with tractionrolling and low traction i'm now going to sell my RR and buy a Mugen MTX-3..
It has won all races in Sweden this season and i have tried 5 of them and they almost drive theirselves when my RR just rolls and slides whatever i do.. :(

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Sparx
After a hell of a season with tractionrolling and low traction i'm now going to sell my RR and buy a Mugen MTX-3..
It has won all races in Sweden this season and i have tried 5 of them and they almost drive theirselves when my RR just rolls and slides whatever i do.. :(

That's funny--I have NEVER rolled my VoneRR, and I race it on a very high speed track with a twisty "infield." The Mugen is a nice car, no doubt about it, but the reason those guys are winning is because they're driving them better. There is no such thing as a car that "drives itself"--it's all in the set-up and how much practice you put in. I bet the owners of the cars you drove put some time into developing their cars. I know a guy that will smoke most of us on this board with an HPI Racer 2--he takes time to set his car up, and he is at the track 4 days a week.

It's not the car (though it helps to have one that is easy to set up).

Just my .02 ;)

[Sparx]

aaa.. so it's not the car when a Swedish champion drives it and makes it roll?. the same with Serpents 705s here.. In US they work real good but thats because you have different Tarmac.

And my 3 buddys (one national champion in 1:10 235mm) has the same probs with tractionrolling..

And the MTX-3s i tested was boxstock cars and with almost stocksetup and handled real good.


The thing is whatever i do to the car it does'nt make any different in handling..

And Kyosho just handles me like garbage.. :mad:

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Sparx
aaa.. so it's not the car when a Swedish champion drives it and makes it roll?. the same with Serpents 705s here.. In US they work real good but thats because you have different Tarmac.

And my 3 buddys (one national champion in 1:10 235mm) has the same probs with tractionrolling..

And the MTX-3s i tested was boxstock cars and with almost stocksetup and handled real good.


The thing is whatever i do to the car it does'nt make any different in handling..

And Kyosho just handles me like garbage.. :mad:

That's funny, 'cause the Kyosho's do really well in Asia. And Assoicated NTC3's do really well in the States... Must be the Asian tarmac... :D Seriously, though, "traction rolling" is a result of poor tuning or a driver mistake--it is certainly not something inherent to a car design (unless you run a T-Maxx around the track). To say that Kyosho's handle like garbage is to fly in the face of conventional wisdom--the VoneR's have a very distinguished racing record. Again, I have a friend that can smoke me with his HPI Racer 2--I don't feel bad--he works at it harder than I do, and he sets his car up properly.

And regarding the Mugen's being "stock"--just what does that mean? I know that a decent driver can take "recommended settings" and work with them, but I guarantee you that the A-main winner will have developed his own ste-up--and it will be much different from the recommened settings. Besides, the recommended settings on the MTX-3 are meant for Asian tarmac... ;)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Sparx
aaa.. so it's not the car when a Swedish champion drives it and makes it roll?. the same with Serpents 705s here.. In US they work real good but thats because you have different Tarmac.

And my 3 buddys (one national champion in 1:10 235mm) has the same probs with tractionrolling..

And the MTX-3s i tested was boxstock cars and with almost stocksetup and handled real good.


The thing is whatever i do to the car it does'nt make any different in handling..

And Kyosho just handles me like garbage.. :mad:

The Austrailian Champ drives a V1RR and he races the Mugen Factory Teams.

I've seen the RFX experience traction roll, but not my RR. Guess you'll be leaving the forum now, before the "EVO" is available. Later

[Sparx]

yeah. later :)

[NiMo]

My trusty V-one R is now 28 months old, I have tried the RR upgrades, most of them failed.
I had grip roll problems for the 1st 6 months until I understood the car.

Here is a bit of its life story:
First I must say I run on Rubber (Take Off CS), I have tried Kfactory parts which was the biggest mistake ever, I have tried various option parts and specs to find the car that suits my driving style, and after a few mods I am happy with the car.

Try these mods:

3 racing Chassis and motor mounts
Kawahara Negative Diff
Tobee Alloy middle and 2-speed shafts
V-one RR front anti roll bar (blade type)
2x 1mm holes in all shock pistons
800wt front shock oil
350wt rear shock oil
30,000wt front diff (2 bevel gears)
600wt rear diff (4 bevel gears/Kawahara Negative)
3 racing carbon top deck
Rear upper swing arm - hub end top hole/chassis end lower hole (big camber change under load)

Everything else V-one 'R' spec

Springs/camber/castor/toe/ride height are changed for different tracks.

Another tip: if you stay off the power too long in corners the car does still try to roll - cure: try blipping the power whilst cornering.

Newsflash: new car hits track in UK, many heads are turning, lesser drivers are suddenly getting results (and I'm being pressured into getting one).
What's the car? G4

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by NiMo
My trusty V-one R is now 28 months old, I have tried the RR upgrades, most of them failed.
I had grip roll problems for the 1st 6 months until I understood the car.

Here is a bit of its life story:
First I must say I run on Rubber (Take Off CS), I have tried Kfactory parts which was the biggest mistake ever, I have tried various option parts and specs to find the car that suits my driving style, and after a few mods I am happy with the car.

Try these mods:

3 racing Chassis and motor mounts
Kawahara Negative Diff
Tobee Alloy middle and 2-speed shafts
V-one RR front anti roll bar (blade type)
2x 1mm holes in all shock pistons
800wt front shock oil
350wt rear shock oil
30,000wt front diff (2 bevel gears)
600wt rear diff (4 bevel gears/Kawahara Negative)
3 racing carbon top deck
Rear upper swing arm - hub end top hole/chassis end lower hole (big camber change under load)

Everything else V-one 'R' spec

Springs/camber/castor/toe/ride height are changed for different tracks.

Another tip: if you stay off the power too long in corners the car does still try to roll - cure: try blipping the power whilst cornering.

Newsflash: new car hits track in UK, many heads are turning, lesser drivers are suddenly getting results (and I'm being pressured into getting one).
What's the car? G4

Nimo, Maybe I'm missing something (UK vs. US?), but it seems that:

a) your shock oil seems too heavy (we typically run 35 to 50 wt at my track).

b) Your rear diff oil seems too light (but that may be a negative diff thing)

c) You don't mention a rear sway bar

I was running 5k in my rear diff, then tried 8k and now, finally, 2k weight oil and the car feels about perfect. I am using a front one-way, so that negates oil weight figures up front. I am using 40 wt oil at all four corners and things are working great. Maybe the rubber tires require a different shock set up (I know that camber, etc. is much different)?

I am going to try a soild rear diff, but I think that I will find that it is not an improvement for me. My rear end feels planted, yet rotates enough when I need sharp turn-in...

[NiMo]

a) your shock oil seems too heavy (we typically run 35 to 50 wt at my track).

b) Your rear diff oil seems too light (but that may be a negative diff thing)

c) You don't mention a rear sway bar


a) shock holes drilled out to 1mm, gives better feel on Rubber but requires heavier front oil.

b) Oil for lubrication only, diff does the rest.

c) don't run one, diff does such a good job you wont need a rear bar
(bar only makes back end break away off power).

[filipinoguy]

Hey, how come on Tower they have Vone S's for $250 and $280. Are there any differences between the 2 other than the body.

Also how do you guys like the VoneS? Is it fast? How's the engine that comes with it? How does it compare to like a Yokomo GT-4 or NTC3?

[Jimmy33]

Are there long body mounts avalible for the V one S as I would like to mount a Focus body for bashing on :D

[nskn]

I just bought a V-One-RR (Japan cup ed) after racing 1:8 buggy a few months. Figured I need a track car as well...

I'd like some advice on a good starter engine/header/pipe for this one. My preferences would be something with medium/high power but easy to tune and start. I.e., no extremely expensive racing machines. I was thinking of the OS .12 CV-R, is that a good choice or are there other better alternatives?

[NiMo]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
Are there long body mounts avalible for the V one S as I would like to mount a Focus body for bashing on :D

VZ098 Kyosho - Rear Body Mount

these are extensions for the current mounts.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by nskn
I just bought a V-One-RR (Japan cup ed) after racing 1:8 buggy a few months. Figured I need a track car as well...

I'd like some advice on a good starter engine/header/pipe for this one. My preferences would be something with medium/high power but easy to tune and start. I.e., no extremely expensive racing machines. I was thinking of the OS .12 CV-R, is that a good choice or are there other better alternatives?
The CV-R is not a good choice--I don't even know if the side-exhaust pipe will fit, and you will be hard pressed to find a CV-R with an SG shaft (necessary for the Centax-type clutch). A better bet would be an OS TR--easy tune, rear exhaust, decent power. Even better would be a Mugen MT-12 or MR-12. The Mugens set the standard for onroad .12 engines in ROAR competition--very easy to tune, very good power, and they last forever.... . AS for the pipe, any tuned pipe from RB, Novarossi, Trinity, RD Logics, etc. will suit you just fine. The RD's are very inexpensive and of decent quality--I prefer the RB's, but they tend to be pricey.

[mckrooz]

Kyosho tested a CV-R on a V-One R. I'm not sure how much different the motor mounts on an RR. I found my CV-R with SG no problem on ebay. $105 NIB.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Kyosho tested a CV-R on a V-One R. I'm not sure how much different the motor mounts on an RR. I found my CV-R with SG no problem on ebay. $105 NIB.
I'm such a dork sometimes... Not only "tested," but sold that way. My first V one R cam with a CV-R and a Mugen side-exhaust pipe (that weird, square one). I'm so focused on the VoneRR that I forgot that the original VoneR did indeed accept the side-exhaust CV-R. Still, the newer rear-exhaust 3-port engines make a better choice...

[nskn]

A lhs recomended the Sirio .12. How does this compare to the OS 12 TR (or CV-R) in terms of reliability, easy of use, and performance? The Sirio engine roughly costs $100 more than the OS engines so I'm having doubts on that one.

[jimmy]

Originally posted by nskn
I just bought a V-One-RR (Japan cup ed) after racing 1:8 buggy a few months. Figured I need a track car as well...

I'd like some advice on a good starter engine/header/pipe for this one. My preferences would be something with medium/high power but easy to tune and start. I.e., no extremely expensive racing machines. I was thinking of the OS .12 CV-R, is that a good choice or are there other better alternatives?

Um... I bought a Novarossi 5 port from www.rcsquare.com. It cost me 200 something but it is stupid fast!

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by nskn
A lhs recomended the Sirio .12. How does this compare to the OS 12 TR (or CV-R) in terms of reliability, easy of use, and performance? The Sirio engine roughly costs $100 more than the OS engines so I'm having doubts on that one.

Sirio's are great motors--good power and about as easy to tune as the Mugen MT-12. The power is a bit better than the TR, and head and shoulders above the CV-R (which, to be fair, is in a different league). You sould be just fine with a Sirio.

[Jimmy33]

Hi having just up graded to a carbon fibre deck on my S and I have found that I need a receiver pack. The trouble is I cannot seem to find an 6.0v packs, only 4.8v or 7.2v. I know it relieve upon the reviever which says it will work on 4.8 or 6 but not 7.2. The thing is will 4.8 be enough for two servos? :confused:

[filipinoguy]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
Hey, how come on Tower they have Vone S's for $250 and $280. Are there any differences between the 2 other than the body.

Also how do you guys like the VoneS? Is it fast? How's the engine that comes with it? How does it compare to like a Yokomo GT-4 or NTC3? Anyone know?

[NiMo]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
Hi having just up graded to a carbon fibre deck on my S and I have found that I need a receiver pack. The trouble is I cannot seem to find an 6.0v packs, only 4.8v or 7.2v. I know it relieve upon the reviever which says it will work on 4.8 or 6 but not 7.2. The thing is will 4.8 be enough for two servos? :confused:

PM with details of my contact sent to you

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
Hi having just up graded to a carbon fibre deck on my S and I have found that I need a receiver pack. The trouble is I cannot seem to find an 6.0v packs, only 4.8v or 7.2v. I know it relieve upon the reviever which says it will work on 4.8 or 6 but not 7.2. The thing is will 4.8 be enough for two servos? :confused:

Jimmy,

All 5-cell NiCd or NiMH receiver packs are 6.0 volt (the rechargeable batteries are 1.2 volts each). That is the most common size available. I wouldn't advise using a 4.8v pack ( 4-cell, slows and reduces the power in your servos) or the 7.2 volt pack (may fry certain receivers).

If the carbon fibre deck is similar to the VoneRR setup, you should be able to mount a 5-cell hump pack behind the fuel tank.

[Jimmy33]

the trouble is that I cannot find a 5 cell hump pack from my suppliers (Ripmax, Irvine and Perkins) whichs leaves me stuck unless I conver a 7 cell pack for a flat pack - please help

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
the trouble is that I cannot find a 5 cell hump pack from my suppliers (Ripmax, Irvine and Perkins) whichs leaves me stuck unless I conver a 7 cell pack for a flat pack - please help
Jimmy, where are you located? 5-cell packs are extremley easy to find--do you ever shop on eBay? What about any of the online hobby shops? I've never heard of Ripmax, Irvine, or Perkins, but I know that Ofna, Trinity, Z-Speed, etc. make excellent 5-cell hump packs.

Here's a link to one of many ebay auctions: http://**************/ws/*******************************3137682704&category=2565 (Ebay 5-Cell Auction)
(Not affiliated in any way--strictly for example purposes)

...and a picture of what it should look like: http://www.megabatteries.com//img/images/battery%20packs/10127.jpg

[NiMo]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
the trouble is that I cannot find a 5 cell hump pack from my suppliers (Ripmax, Irvine and Perkins) whichs leaves me stuck unless I conver a 7 cell pack for a flat pack - please help

Ripmax have plenty in stock so you'd better tell your local dealer to try again.

[Jimmy33]

do you have a part number as the gut who nows everything at my LHS is off sick and it would make it much easy (yes i am lazy! :rolleyes: ) :D

[Mini-Z man]

Just bought a V one RR off ebay. Has everything but wheels, body, bump start and radio gear. Will I be able to use the 4 AA battery holder thing to power the receiver? It will fit right? Anything specific in bump starters that I should look for? What size body should I get?

The one I have comes with a "rova" engine (is that novarosi?) how fast should it be?
here it is, maybe you can tell by the picture?
eBay item number 3138687181

Thanks, and can't wait to get it but I need to send MO out first.

[Matlock]

You can't use a standard battery pack in it. The hump pack is the only one that fits, unless you want to strap something else to the upperdeck.

As for the engine, I've never heard of a rova. Like you said, he could have meant nova, but I don't know. Otherwise it looks like a pretty decent deal.

[Mini-Z man]

What kind of charger will I need to charge a 5 cell hump if I got one for the V one RR? I have a Piranha Peak and Piranha timer w/ meter. These charge 6-7 cells. I would want to buy a cheap charger, or possibly a good one for less money in the buy/sell/trade section. I guess a good question to ask is, What should I look for in a charger for a 5 cell hump pack? I can determine what's cheap, and what's good with the search button.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i was thinking about getting either a v-one-r or a reflex or a ntc3, but i just found a few more that i would like more, there is the kyosho v-one-rr evo, and there is this new(i think, ive never seen it before) trinity g4 car http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXEUV3&P=7 what do you guys think of these new cars? i would be putting a os tr .12 sg engine in it

[filipinoguy]

What kinda batteries does the V one S take? Can you use 4 AA alkalines?:confused:

[filipinoguy]

Hey guys, anyone know what bodies are the VoneS I and II come with?

I know the Castrol Mugen NSX, and Mclaren F1 are the original. But what about all the other one's like:

Mecedes D2
other mercedes CLK (black pictured one)

I'm pretty sure the new NSX, Supra, and porsche are VoneS II's.

So anyone know aboet the Mercedes'?

someone please clear this up.:confused:here's (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=V+one+S&FVPROFIL=++) a link to Tower hobbies.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Mini-Z man
What kind of charger will I need to charge a 5 cell hump if I got one for the V one RR? I have a Piranha Peak and Piranha timer w/ meter. These charge 6-7 cells. I would want to buy a cheap charger, or possibly a good one for less money in the buy/sell/trade section. I guess a good question to ask is, What should I look for in a charger for a 5 cell hump pack? I can determine what's cheap, and what's good with the search button.

Do yourself a favor and get a charger which will work as a discharger as well. A really good battery charge can not be completed without a discharge. At around $100 there is only one choice the SuperBrain 969 or 959 (sorry can't remember which.) Skip e-bay on this one, unless you can find it NIB.;)

[Mini-Z man]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Do yourself a favor and get a charger which will work as a discharger as well. A really good battery charge can not be completed without a discharge. At around $100 there is only one choice the SuperBrain 969 or 959 (sorry can't remember which.) Skip e-bay on this one, unless you can find it NIB.;)

what do you mean skip ebay? On the charger? What's wrong with buying a used charger? it either works or doesnt work. and if they say it works, it has to work.

[NiMo]

APP Brake Rotor & Pad Set (For V-One/32Öx1.5mm) No.APP02
APP Brake Rotor (FC) (For V-One/32Öx1.5mm) No.APP02-1
APP Brake Pad (For V-One) No.APP02-2
Joint development with APP who is the most famous optional parts supplier for real car.
Using same technology for brake pad for real car, brake pad was aleady glued in the factory. Improves brake efficiency.
Uses Ventilated Brake Rotor to aid cooling.
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/rc_model/touring_rally/pureten_v-one/option/v-one_images/app02.gif

Anyone been able to obtain these new brake parts yet?

[filipinoguy]

How fast is the VoneS? Can it hit 40?

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Mini-Z man
what do you mean skip ebay? On the charger? What's wrong with buying a used charger? it either works or doesnt work. and if they say it works, it has to work.

I wouldn't buy a used charger, I want the new one that's all. I use e-bay quite a bit, but my luck with electronics, used that is, has been inconsistent. Besides the 969 is just out, it may not even be available used. There is a review of the charger in one of the August RC car mags.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
APP Brake Rotor & Pad Set (For V-One/32Öx1.5mm) No.APP02
APP Brake Rotor (FC) (For V-One/32Öx1.5mm) No.APP02-1
APP Brake Pad (For V-One) No.APP02-2

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/rc_model/touring_rally/pureten_v-one/option/v-one_images/app02.gif

Anyone been able to obtain these new brake parts yet?

I haven't seen them anywhere yet Nimo.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
How fast is the VoneS? Can it hit 40?

Not without adding the two speed, my neighbor has one. Since he added the two speed transmission it goes very well. No radar gun here, but it looks pretty fast.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
How fast is the VoneS? Can it hit 40?

With the standard kit gearing the car is way undergeared, in fact the 1st gear of the 2-speed is faster than the kit gears.

At my local track in a 5 minute race with my Kyosho Cup spec V-one S I can do a 19 lapper, with my V-one R with a Rossio RS12 I can do a 20 lapper, track record set by a works driver who test almost 24/7 is a 21 lapper (with a Mugen MTX3). These times are with Touring (sedan to you) shells and Rubber tyres.

Foam tyre times have just been shattered, now at 23 laps, set by 2 G4's and 2 MTX3's, no other 23 lappers posted.

[filipinoguy]

Can it hit 30?

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
Can it hit 30? Okay, here's nthe scoop: Stock, it MIGHT hit 30 if properly tuned and with good bearings. To get much more than that, you'll need to:

a) Get a 2-speed transmission
b) Get a better engine
c) or, the least expensive, is to gear your single-speed to the moon..... not the best nor most efficient way to achieve higher speeds. If you have not bought a car yet and speed is of paramount concern to you, I'd say you should skip the S altogether and go for the R....

[filipinoguy]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Stock, it MIGHT hit 30 if properly tuned and with good bearings.
It MIGHT? Thats sucks.:mad:

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
It MIGHT? Thats sucks.:mad: Well, I might be a little off on the top speed figure, but it is severly limited by the GS15 engine and the single speed. Like I said, if you're looking for improved top speed, you're better off building a V one R... Especially at the low prices they're currently selling them for.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
It MIGHT? Thats sucks.:mad:

If you want speed from a basic kit model you could always go for the Traxxas thing, adverts here claim it can do 50mph+ from the box.
(they dont tell you that it takes 1/4 mile to get there and that the car handles likes s***)

I cant see what your problem is as even here in rip off britain the complete 2-speed only cost £50 (about $75), and can be fitted in under 30 minutes (you dont even have to strip the car to fix it as it uses the kit supplied already fitted gear shaft).

[filipinoguy]

Screw Traxxas, lol. Nah, I just ordered my VoneS from towerhobbies today!:) For $233 I got the Mercedes CLK (black one), after run oil, shock oil, 3' fuel line, glow plug wrench, and paint for the body. That includes shipping and handling. :cool: Now all I need is a glow starter/charger, fuel bottle, and extra glow plug and fuel.:) BTW if you can't tell this is my first nitro.:)

So good engine + 2 speed = fast VoneS huh. Maybe next birthday. BTW NiMo, my ''problem'' is I'm only 14 and don't have a job.:rolleyes:

[chromedlux]

im planning to gte my first rc this week but dont know whether to just get a vonesII for my first or just get a vonerr straight off and start with a good car.....

what do you guys think , the standard vonesII will be good, or will i be wishing i just bought the rr after a few months??

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by chromedlux
im planning to gte my first rc this week but dont know whether to just get a vonesII for my first or just get a vonerr straight off and start with a good car.....

what do you guys think , the standard vonesII will be good, or will i be wishing i just bought the rr after a few months??

I think I might consider the new FW-05, from KYOSHO, also. Personally, I think you'll enjoy the V-1 S, the V1RR is a bit more difficult to tune the chassis, but not really that much harder.

[mckrooz]

I stripped my 48t spur and my LHS only has a 49t. Will this mesh right with the stock 16/20t pinions?

[PCC]

Yes

[Mini-Z man]

I bought a V one R off ebay, thinking it was a V one R R because everywhere on the ad it said "V one R R". Anyway, it's a hopped up V one R (once I recieved it I found out). What am I short of to make this an R R? He listed the parts on the auction:


My V one R R that was on ebay item # 3138687181 if link doesnt work (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3138687181&category=19168&rd=1)

Oh yea the engine is a Novarossi MT12 I think. It says "Nova M 12" on the block.

I also noticed it's a little hard to turn the wheels. Is this because the belts are tight? He has different pullies installed because the front wheels spin faster than the rear, and he has a LSD installed (front I think). I'm guessing when you change pully size it stretches the pullies? Will this be bad on the engine?

can someone send me a picture of the front sway bars installed? I want to see how to do it and I think I'm missing the turn buckle like things that attach to the sway bar itself.

[KingWillie]

The stock V 1 RR front wheels do spin faster than the rear wheels. It was designed so that you true the front tires down to a specific setting. I forgot what the advantage of this was, but we discussed it in length over the winter. Possibly the belt is tight because of debris in the pulleys maybe, check it out. The wheels should turn freely. The front sway bar is a blade type swaybar and there are no turnbuckles to be attached, only on the rear would there be a turnbuckle like device.
To adjust the front swaybar, you alter the angle of the flat area which produces less resistance when horizontal to the ground and most when vertical. Hope this helps a bit. WHat type of clutch is on the car? Does it have a front one-way? Does it have the floating body mount?

[Mini-Z man]

I will take pictures, but the sway bar isn't installed so i dont know how it will look i'm just looking at the rear sway bar which is installed. Do you have a picture? The body mounts do float I believe

[KingWillie]

How about the clutch? Centax style or not? When you post your pics we can help. One other thing you may consider is upgrading to the RR EVO which is now available in at RCMODEL HK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/)

CHECK out item; Categories » Car Kits » Gas Power » 1:10 Touring » KY-39300

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by KingWillie
How about the clutch? Centax style or not? When you post your pics we can help. One other thing you may consider is upgrading to the RR EVO which is now available in at RCMODEL HK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/)

CHECK out item; Categories » Car Kits » Gas Power » 1:10 Touring » KY-39300

Does the conversion applies only for the "RR"? If not, saves me a lot - instead of buying an Evo Kit. Coz my RFX is already an RR. Thanks King!

[RC Demon]

Is it possible to convert the v1s into a v1r? bent my chassis the other day, scaped a good portion of it too. :mad: venom wheels melted (worst wheels I've ever seen).

I'm also considering getting a v1rr or should i just wait for the evo kit to come out.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Does the conversion applies only for the "RR"? If not, saves me a lot - instead of buying an Evo Kit. Coz my RFX is already an RR. Thanks King!

The conversion kit is for the RR as it has new pieces for parts not in the R kit. You could of course use this on an R, but you would need to upgrade to the RR clutch front sway bar and floating mount.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by RC Demon
Is it possible to convert the v1s into a v1r? bent my chassis the other day, scaped a good portion of it too. :mad: venom wheels melted (worst wheels I've ever seen).

I'm also considering getting a v1rr or should i just wait for the evo kit to come out.

I'd wait for the EVO kit will be available August 14th and the new FW-05 shaft drive car should be out shortly also. You can view the EVO kit here at RCMODELHK (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/), Categories » Car Kits » Gas Power » 1:10 Touring » KY-39300.

[RC Demon]

are those release dates for the states? do you know if the aluminum pulleys (they just indicate v-one) that they sell on towerhobbies will fit the v-one s. and where are all the v-one r's, i can't seem to get my hands on any.

[Poindexter]

I am ordering the EVO conversion from RCMart, and will post here how it all goes.

Regarding the aluminum pulleys, they will fit, but you have to make sure that the tooth-count is the same. If you alter the tooth count, you may have to buy new belts.

[RC Demon]

hey thanks poindexter. i'm probably gonna put in the order this afternoon after i access the damage to my v-one s

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by RC Demon
hey thanks poindexter. i'm probably gonna put in the order this afternoon after i access the damage to my v-one s

Demon, checkout RCHUB.com for 3Racing Pullies for the R series, again be careful you order the correct pulley size.

[RC Demon]

thanks guys :)

[PCC]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Does the conversion applies only for the "RR"? If not, saves me a lot - instead of buying an Evo Kit. Coz my RFX is already an RR. Thanks King! When you say RFX, do you mean the Reflex NT?

[adlawoo]

Yup PCC! I got that abbrevation from the box and manual. RR my RFX...coz I am running a Lola body with the Wide Bumper/Floating Rear body mounts of the RR plus 1ways & Neg. Diffs. of the R. The hobby place I race, don't really care about the Lola body. It's just the racers themselves whines sometimes...later

[chromedlux]

just got my vone rr yesterday started to build it today and realised there are parts missing! most screws , nuts etc are missing and the clutch assemble (bag7) and the 2 spd (bag 5)
thats what ive picked up for now.... bought it brand new off ebay, awaiting he sellers response now.... im not happy!

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by chromedlux
just got my vone rr yesterday started to build it today and realised there are parts missing! most screws , nuts etc are missing and the clutch assemble (bag7) and the 2 spd (bag 5)
thats what ive picked up for now.... bought it brand new off ebay, awaiting he sellers response now.... im not happy!

Ouch that hurts, never heard of KYOSHO making this error, sounds like your seller wasn't quit NIB. Goodluck.

[chromedlux]

yeah im guesing it was someone other than kyosho who has removed the bags......

if worst comes to worst can you order the bags? or do you have to order part number by part number..

[PCC]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Yup PCC! I got that abbrevation from the box and manual. RR my RFX...coz I am running a Lola body with the Wide Bumper/Floating Rear body mounts of the RR plus 1ways & Neg. Diffs. of the R. I know that the RFX is based on the V-One R but there are differences between the designs. Not sure how they will affect you if you go this route. If you look at the pictures you see that you are getting new front bulkheads, chassis, upper deck, steering gear, etc, etc, etc. Notably missing are some of the diff parts. I guess they want you to reuse some parts from your RR to complete the conversion (like the entire rear-end of the car, the belts, pulleys, etc). How similar these parts are from the RFX to the V-One R, I don't know. The question is whether or not you are willing to buy the conversion kit to find out if it works or not.

[mr.fury]

Everyone...please HELP...I'm a couple days away from buying this v-one r....guy said something about rear oil? something about 1000wt? or 15,000 anybody know what i'm talkin about?...He hasn't ran it in a awhile and said it might need to be rebuilt...can anybody help????????????? PLEASE..and could someone tell me any other major things i need to know about the v-one r before my first run....Also...it comes with a o.s cv .12 engine...is that engine pretty quick? I never had a cv series nor a v-one r so i don't know how the combo will match....1 more thing...i found this novamega engine something about a nova mega SX12 3Port RE race turbo MS....is this a Great engine to get my v-one r up to speed...i'm a street racer...I race my friends with nitro tc3's and hpi nitro rs4 racer Edition and stuff...So i'm looking for great speed...PLEASE EMAIL ME BACK ASAP

Email address is stlss_illest@hotmail.com

Thank You

[mckrooz]

That OS CV motor is not going to be fast at all. It has .56 HP at 25K rpm or so. The Novamega motor should be pretty fast though.

[NiMo]

My FW05R arrived today, so my attentions may now be elsewhere.
Will this be goodbye to my V-one R after 29 months? Still running the 'S' in the Kyosho cup as I'm still 1 of 3 that can win the championship.
Sorry to leave you all.

[morlock]

Originally posted by NiMo
My FW05R arrived today, so my attentions may now be elsewhere.
Will this be goodbye to my V-one R after 29 months? Still running the 'S' in the Kyosho cup as I'm still 1 of 3 that can win the championship.
Sorry to leave you all.

Where did you get it? And was their price good? Good luck in the K-Car champ series.

Also tell us your impressions with the kit when you get it together.

[filipinoguy]

What are some good go-fast hop ups for the VoneS? I'm thinking about the 2 speed. What else? (other than a new engine)

[NiMo]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
What are some good go-fast hop ups for the VoneS? I'm thinking about the 2 speed. What else? (other than a new engine)

If it's the V-one S1 with that coffin tank then get the carbon top deck and the 'R' fuel tank (deck needed to fit tank).
The 'R' tank breathes much better allowing you to get a leaner setting on the carb without the fuel starving problems of the coffin tank, (better fuel mix = more power).

[filipinoguy]

Would it be possible to convert my VoneS to a VoneR, RR, or even RR Evo.:eek: Do they make conversion kits?

[NiMo]

It is possible but not cheap.

Cheapest way would be to start with the Evo conversion kit, then you would need the 'R' gearbox/rear shaft and all the 'R' gearbox components.
Then there's the 'RR' rear body mount set and possibly new side and front belts, and there still may be some other bits i've overlooked.

May work out cheaper to buy a new 'RR' kit.

[PCC]

I think it's easier to tell you what parts are the same than to try to tell you what parts you need to buy to convert a S to a R: The front and rear bulkheads (includes the diff and suspension). Everything else are different. You're better off selling your V-One S and then buying a V-One R or RR kit.

[filipinoguy]

Ok screw that , I like my VoneS.:p Maybe I'll get the VoneS carbon fiber upper deck and new tank.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
Ok screw that , I like my VoneS.:p Maybe I'll get the VoneS carbon fiber upper deck and new tank.

I just got the V ONE RR EVO conversion kit for $130 US from RCMODEL. That and a 3d clutch $70 US from RCMODEL will allow you to convert the S to an EVO, minus the floating mount which you could add with time. Do you have a front and rear stabilizer set? If not you need to tack on another $75.

[filipinoguy]

No I don't have the front or rear stabilizer set.

With a VoneRR EVO conversion would I still be able to use the VoneS engine and header/tuned pipe?

Can you please link me to the site with the conversion.

[filipinoguy]

Hey what kinda wheels are you using on your Vone:S,R, RR,or RR Evo? It seems like ''standard'' wheels are too wide for my VoneS cause of the way the Kyosho wheels are shaped. Like the hex mount is very thin, you know what I mean? So what wheels do you guys use? Do you have to buy Kyosho wheels? If so that sucks.:mad:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
No I don't have the front or rear stabilizer set.

With a VoneRR EVO conversion would I still be able to use the VoneS engine and header/tuned pipe?

Can you please link me to the site with the conversion.

Kyosho Home Page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/main-e.html)

Read back in the thread for where you can buy the conversion kit, its availability was going to be for a limited time, per the KYOSHO home page.

The part number is KY-39300, you can try RCMODELHK.com and others I'm sure someone still has it.

[PCC]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
No I don't have the front or rear stabilizer set.

With a VoneRR EVO conversion would I still be able to use the VoneS engine and header/tuned pipe?

Can you please link me to the site with the conversion. Remember that the V-One R cannot use a pullstart engine of any kind. I've found that the V-One R with a side-exhaust engine requires a very long header, longer than I like to use.

If you do this conversion you will still need to come up with the rear shaft, two-speed, clutchbell, probably a flywheel, some belts, and stuff to complete it.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by filipinoguy
Hey what kinda wheels are you using on your Vone:S,R, RR,or RR Evo? It seems like ''standard'' wheels are too wide for my VoneS cause of the way the Kyosho wheels are shaped. Like the hex mount is very thin, you know what I mean? So what wheels do you guys use? Do you have to buy Kyosho wheels? If so that sucks.:mad:

You can use almost any Scale wheel, I use Schumacher wheels myself simply because the plastic around the hex part of the wheels is stronger and less likely to strip.

[Calistris]

i am thking aobut getting a vone s but i dunno
if it will be very fast i dont really wanna get a really slow ass car
becasue then after a tad ill have to buy another so how fast will the beast go (Kmph please) cause i live in new zealand i am 14 i cant get a job damn it but the car (RTR) is 500 NZD (new zealand is poor) :D is that any good? is it faster than the NTC3? top end and bottem end? (im a N00B) and yeah so can u please reply to me THNX

PS:umm are there alot of hop ups? and how old is the model been out for :D:D


THNX AGAIN!!

[VWNTC3]

Can you use the 3D Centax clutch on a Reflex? Will the RFX pinions/spurs work with it or would u have to use RR spurs?

Reason being, there is a $40 price difference between trinity clutch & the RR 3D clutch. Thanks.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Calistris
i am thking aobut getting a vone s but i dunno
if it will be very fast i dont really wanna get a really slow ass car
becasue then after a tad ill have to buy another so how fast will the beast go (Kmph please) cause i live in new zealand i am 14 i cant get a job damn it but the car (RTR) is 500 NZD (new zealand is poor) :D is that any good? is it faster than the NTC3? top end and bottem end? (im a N00B) and yeah so can u please reply to me THNX

PS:umm are there alot of hop ups? and how old is the model been out for :D:D


THNX AGAIN!!

The car is roughly equivalent in speed to the NTC3 RTR, i.e. they both come with a single speed transmission. Some guys race them both stock at the track I race at and they certainly look quite similar in top end speed, which is limited due to the transmission. There are many hop ups for both cars, many Nimo will respond he has much more experience with the S than I do.

[NiMo]

Did someone say my name?

not been here much as I now run the FW05 (best car ever) but here we are taking 'S'.
Is it fast? well the kit supplied gearing is way undergeared, even the 1st gear in the 2-speed lets the car go faster.
gear ratios from the 2-speed are 1st:14/43 2nd:17/40, racing the car in the Kyosho cup (i came 2nd this year, lost by 6 points) I found the car worked best on a gear ratio of 1st:15/40 2nd:19/39, with these gear ratios on my local track which has a 155ft straight my 'S' was only 1 lap slower than my 'R' (which has a Rossi RS12 motor) over a 5 minute run.

There are plenty of hop ups for the 'S', most are not really required as the do very little in performance gain, main options that do make a difference are:
2-speed.
'R' fuel tank (requires Kyosho carbon top deck).
'RR' front antiroll bar (works better than the 'R/S' version).
all other option parts are personal choice and do little (except for the Kawahara Negative Diff).

If you can, get the 'S2' model, it will save you the cost of the tank and top deck.

best plug I've found for the kit motor is the 'OS A3'.

And if you feel later on like you need more power or speed the you can simply replace the motor with a Rossi or Sirio .12 motor, only extra bits required would be the motor mounts and a manifold.

[Calistris]

so really getting the VoneS is a good idea? i think my hobby place made a mistke saying it was 500 (NZD) i think it is more isnt it? or is it the right price? is it a good car for racing and if i buy a nosi or picco engine wont i haver to buy a new drive shaft and how fast wil lthis beast go with that engine (in KMPH)


THNX!!!

[NiMo]

price sounds around the right area.

V-one S has all the latest mod cons for adjustment to camber/castor/toe/ride height etc, the only dated area is in the 2-speed, it is of the lever type and not the latest shoe type (just means your gear change will have a slight kick, nothing to worry about).
Not sure what you mean about a new shaft, almost any .12 motor will go straight in (just motor mounts needed).

Speed - a fast car is not always a quick car, some kits are overgeared to make the car go fast but they need a drag strip to reach that speed, but as you asked i will give some figures.

At my local track cars reach a speed of around 45mph (73kmph).
box standard V-one S - about 25mph (40kmph)
with 2-speed fitted and the space to get there - about 50-60mph (80-95kmph)
with .12 motor, 2-speed and the space - about 70-85mph (113-135kmph).
realistic speed on a 50m straight with .12 - 50mph (80kmph).

for your age and lack of experience i think the V-one S is a good choice, the car is not unbreakable but is a lot stronger than most (lots stronger than a tc3)

[VWNTC3]

Nimo, what about the 3D clutch/Reflex clutch interchange ability?

Can you use the 3D Centax clutch on a Reflex? Will the RFX pinions/spurs work with it or would u have to use RR spurs?

Thanks.

[NiMo]

I would love to give you an answer but I dont know anyone that still runs the Reflex here in the UK, the car was simply too fragile for the colder UK climate.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by NiMo
I would love to give you an answer but I dont know anyone that still runs the Reflex here in the UK, the car was simply too fragile for the colder UK climate.

No go on the clutch the Reflex has a different 2 Speed than the Kyoshos. 3D Centax won't work on it. My son runs a Reflex Team Car with Kyoshos belts being the only mod. He has been racing with it every other Sunday since it was available, sucessfully I might add. :D :D

[VWNTC3]

Thanks.

[V-ONE-SII]

Hi all,

I'm newbie of playing nitro car. I have question on the 2-speed transmission of V-ONE-SII (actually the shopkeeper told me that it is the same as V-ONE-S). I have plugged those stuff in the car but I would like to know how it works? :confused:
I don't want to damage the transmission once I start my engine.Many Thanks.

[NiMo]

Main difference between the 'S' and 'S2' models is the radio plate and fuel tank, other bits are the same for both cars (before you say it, S2 has larger head on the motor)

Gearbox work on a similar idea to the clutch, 1st gear is on a one-way bearing so when put under load it bites the shaft making it solid thus giving drive, 2nd gear is on a free rolling bearing, placed within the 2nd gear cog is an alloy unit with a spring tensioned lever, this unit is fixed to the main gearbox shaft thus rotates at all times with the shaft, when the unit reaches a certain speed the weight of the lever in the unit pushes against the spring, this lever will then push out far enough to catch on to the lug inside the 2nd gear cog thus engaging the 2nd gear, this in turn rotates the gearbox shaft faster thus removing the load fron the one-way bearing in the 1st gear cog.
When you slow or stop the car the rotation of the shaft slows reducing the weight/tension force of the lever, thus the lever level reduces to a point where it no longer catches on to the lug in the 2nd gear, which puts you back in 1st gear.

Any the wiser now?

[NiMo]

According to Kyosho France, all that is required to change the V-one S to a V-one S2 are these parts:
VZ39 : VZ40 : VZ41 and the fuel tank 92301

[Calistris]

ohhh jolly thank q very kind!!
i was thinking about the vone s and the v one R whast the diff and speed diff (differnence)
the price range (please NZD) and Kmph :D
thnx you very kindly!!

[V-ONE-SII]

Originally posted by NiMo
Main difference between the 'S' and 'S2' models is the radio plate and fuel tank, other bits are the same for both cars (before you say it, S2 has larger head on the motor)

Gearbox work on a similar idea to the clutch, 1st gear is on a one-way bearing so when put under load it bites the shaft making it solid thus giving drive, 2nd gear is on a free rolling bearing, placed within the 2nd gear cog is an alloy unit with a spring tensioned lever, this unit is fixed to the main gearbox shaft thus rotates at all times with the shaft, when the unit reaches a certain speed the weight of the lever in the unit pushes against the spring, this lever will then push out far enough to catch on to the lug inside the 2nd gear cog thus engaging the 2nd gear, this in turn rotates the gearbox shaft faster thus removing the load fron the one-way bearing in the 1st gear cog.
When you slow or stop the car the rotation of the shaft slows reducing the weight/tension force of the lever, thus the lever level reduces to a point where it no longer catches on to the lug in the 2nd gear, which puts you back in 1st gear.

Any the wiser now?

Thanks for you information. I have put the car on road and tested it. However, the gear (outside one) on the engine shifted outward after a run. Should I put some screw crement on it?

I have replaced the 4xuniversal shift, 2 speed transmission, 26mm 40 Front tyres and 30mm 42 Rear tyres. What else I can change for better handling?Thanks

[filipinoguy]

Originally posted by NiMo

the kit supplied gearing is way undergeared, even the 1st gear in the 2-speed lets the car go faster.
gear ratios from the 2-speed are 1st:14/43 2nd:17/40,
How is that possible?:confused: The kit gearing is 16/46 which is taller than 14/43? Someone please explain.:confused:

[filipinoguy]

Can someone please answer my question, and about how fast will a Stock VoneS go with the 2 speed?

[NiMo]

If you read through the threads you would have seen my previous reply to what you are now asking

At my local track cars reach a speed of around 45mph (73kmph)
box standard V-one S - about 25mph (40kmph)
with 2-speed fitted and the space to get there - about 50-60mph (80-95kmph)
with .12 motor, 2-speed and the space - about 70-85mph (113-135kmph).
realistic speed on a 50m straight with .12 - 50mph (80kmph).
.

[Cant log on]

NiMo or KingWilly, do either one of you know of any online shops that have these VoneS parts. VZW030, and VZW031??

Cant believe this thing let me on. Been trying for weeks. Probably wont be able to post again for another few months. LOL

[cool head]

can't seem to find a part number for the motor mounts that are designed for a regular engine, not the GS15. anyone know it. the only thing i can find is part#39648, but it doesn't mention if it will fit the v-1-s.

[Cant log on]

Yes that is the right number. The 39648 or the FD-20 will work as long as you dont use a recoil. If you want to use a recoil you will have to put spacers on top of the mounts. The Kyosho recoil assembly will fit SOME OS engines ( CZ-R, CZ-Z, CV ) Then you dont need the spacers.

[cool head]

thanx!

[Cant log on]

Wow two days in a row.

Any time, as long as I can get on here. Have a lot of trouble getting on R/C sites. Cant even get on tower hobbies. Only sites I have problems with. Any idea where to get these parts VZW030, and VZW031??

[NiMo]

seen them advertised as an option part on a number of sites but have yet to find one that actually has them for sale.

also have the same problem with the R ones, but as I now run the 05 i wont need them.

[55psi]

Hey guys im new to this forum
i was just wondering, will a Novarossi CX12 fit in a V one S?
its a side exhaust .12 engine

Picture:
Novarossi CX12 (http://www.novarossi.it/motori/Foto%20motori/Foto%20motori%202003/CX12R2-CX12R2N-ico.jpg)

[cool head]

thats what im running in mine. so yes it will fit.

[55psi]

for the one in the pic, does it need a 2 speed for the shaft or is it still ok for a single speed?