Team Losi XXXNT forum v7.0

[jasonrcfreak]

I'm trying to decide what the next upgrade for my truck might be. I'm considering the trick looking carbon fiber chasis or a complete shock kit from an Adam Drake kit (threaded bodies, ti nitride shafts, etc etc). Wadda you guys think?
thanks
J

[Casper]

Get the shocks over the chassis. Always pick performance over looks. I do not think the chassis weight is going to effect the car as much as you think. The smoother shocks with the threaded collars will make adjustments easier and they will not slip. You will gains duarbility also.

[MrCrash]

besides,everyone knows that the best material for a chassis is magnesium:p ;)

[cave]

jasonrcfreak
What pipe do you have ? I would spend money on a drake pipe and manifold before Shocks. Performance is the key. The shocks are the same. Just the shafts and threaded bodies are different. Thats alot of money vs. a drake pipe...

cave

[MikeWz]

Casper-You'd be surprised. Not only is there a weight difference, but the chassis is more rigid as well. So when you put the weight difference and the added rigidity together it does make a difference

Jason-If you don't have the drake pipe yet, it's also worth while looking into the fantom pipe. You can match the pipe to your engine too. If you're running an aftermarket with tons of low-end, than you can get the two-chamer to balance it out. If you're running one with a good balance or more top-end, than the single chamber is the way to go. They really make a huge difference in performance, and they sound amazing.

[Casper]

Mike-- I am not sure how much stiffer it could be. I cannot bend my drake (actually I am running the JT chassis right now) by itself as it is. With the top brace this is the most ridgid car I own. The graphite chassis is not going to make that any better. I will take the heat disipation properties of the metal chassis over the CF chassis also.

[jasonrcfreak]

Engine wise, I'm running a Collari Picco XS.12 rear exhaust/rotary carb. It seems to have a monstrous powerband all the way through. Likes to pull the front end up like crazy.
I've been running the blue Team Associated pipe.

Thanks
J

[ross]

Hey guys, I've been keeping my eye on this forum for the past few days, but I thought it would be a good idea to say hi. I ordered my Drake yesterday and it should be here Wednesday. I'm an GT racer but I sold that last week.


Cheers ;)

[racer2]

good for u. team losi xXx-NT is so much better than the Gt:D :rolleyes:

[speedydave]

Any of you try multiple pipes with the MT12? What pipe would be best coupled with an MT12? I don't really need super power, considering the MT12 already makes a ton of power, more looking for something that will extend my runtimes, if possible(like the 063 pipes in 1/8). Thanks.

[Carkar]

Hey guys, I got a question for ya. I have been messing with my XXX-NT's linkage for a while and no matter what I do I can't get enough brake with the carb being able to open all the way. My trim is as far as it can go. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know of a way to change this? I just can't figure it out. Please help me. Thanks!

[Herpetologist]

I have had no luck at all having my ADE's diff holding up. I have a question. When you spin one wheel, what should the other do? I have had it were if you spin one clockwise the other would go counter clockwise. Is that correct? I have also had it were the diff is completely silent and if you spin one wheel, the other wheel goes the same way. Which is correct? Thanks for the input.

[racer2]

Carkar- I have the same problem, all i did was tryed to fix it best i can. I really don't know how to fix the problem:( . But ask Got Speed and he may be able to help u. :)

Herpetologist- Yes u are correct when ur diff is locked one wheel should spin clockwise and the other sould spin counter clockwise.
When u release the brake the wheels should spin the same way.

[Carkar]

I just though of this. What if I bent the lever to the brake caliper? Would the linkage still be strong enough after it was bent? Has anyone found a different way to get more brake?

[ross]

Originally posted by Carkar
I just though of this. What if I bent the lever to the brake caliper? Would the linkage still be strong enough after it was bent? Has anyone found a different way to get more brake?

A couple of friends at the track have come up with a mod so you can use double disk brakes on the xxxnt. Im not sure exactly what you have to do because I havent got my xxxnt yet, but when I get it he is going to show me how do it. I'll post it on here when its done. All that is needed is Losi's Brake Rebuild Kit, A small spacer and some grinding of the gearbox case.

[MikeWz]

Casper-Trust me. You'd be surprised. And CF actually has a higher tensile strength than aluminum and even titanium. As far as heat dissipation, I've not noticed any increase in running temp of my car, so I can't complain about that. They chassis are $50, so it's not cheap, but I'd say if you get a chance give it a shot

Jason-Go with the Dual Chamber fantom works pipe if you can afford it. They are $50 so those are pretty steep, but they are so worth it.

[Got Speed]

ross- Great, I love my NT over my former GT. What engine are you planning on putting in it?

Carkar- It does need to be readjusted from time to time. Try moving the colars on the linkage(by the shock tower) toward the front of the car. The more you move it forward the more brake you get. Don't move it too far or else you will get drag brake which is where you get brake at neutral throttle position. You can also move your linkage out farther on the servo arm(which will probably require you to also readjust the collars on the brake linkage). Make sure there isn't oil or fuel on the break disc. Try buying a new brake disk.

Herpetologist- It sounds to me like they arn't adjusted right. Hold one wheel and the spur gear in one hand while turning the other wheel forward with the other hand. You should see the slipper plates turn. If they don't or the diff slips a little and the slipper slips a little then it needs to be tightened. Continue tightening untill the slipper slips completely. The tighter your slipper the tighter you diff needs to be too. You shouldn't have your slipper really tight. It should only be tight enough so that it dosn't slip under acceleration. Some people use it as a "torque limiter". That really dosn't work that well(unless you have to for some reason) and if it is way too loose it can melt your spur gear.

[ross]

Got Speed,

Glad you like the Losi over the GT, I'm gonna stick my .12CVR in the Losi, Im hoping though that I will get away with using the short crank that was used in my GT, ifnot Ill buy a new crank for it because I know the NT's meant to use standard crank.

[jasonrcfreak]

hello boys and girls. My track has changed and they've added a very tight, technical section. I need to dial in some more steering and try to carry more speed through this section.

I'm copying a Drake set-up.
Front:
30wt. oil
56 pistons
red springs

40wt. oil
56 pistons
orange springs

any ideas on more steering??
thanks
J

[BigBadTahoe]

Maybe a different ribbed front tire would grip more and not let the truck push through the turns as much. Like the ones that are half ribbed and half knobies. Just somethin to try.:)

[Carkar]

Got Speed-I have the linkage on the outer hole in the arm. I have messed with all the collars and radio trim and there is no way to get anymore brake like it is without a mod. The brake is new along with the truck and the disc is clean. I just wanted to know if anyone had this problem and how they fixed it. I think I will bend the lever. What could go wrong?:rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

ross- Yea, it is mostly a preference thing between the NT and GT. But I like mine alot more. Anyway, the short crank may or may not work depending on how short it is. If it is just short enough for the GT and not any shorter then you should be able to use it without any problems. Be sure to put plenty of loc-tite on the crank though. Good luck with your new truck, your gonna love it.

Carkar- Make sure the brake clips are on the right way. I run mine so that the top one is holds the brake lever in the back while the bottom one holds it in the front. Make sure the brake lever hasn't slipped out of either clips either.

cave- lol I figured out what happened in my race. The last lap he just disqualified it so I still I got 3rd even though I didn't get that last lap. I walked it over the line thinking that it would put me as a DNF since I didn't finish the last 30ft. He must only put you as a DNF if you don't get a certain number of laps or if you don't make it half way through the 5 minutes. LOL I thought I stole the spot from someone else. I'm going to tell him what I was thinking just to make sure I'm right though and so he dosn't think I was trying to cheat. lol I'll see you out there next saturday. I'm not sure if I will be out there any more in August or not though.

[slow coach]

carkar we have the same prob with the nt brakes the disk and pads seem ok it would appear that there is to much flex in the wire, a guy in the uk tried running a thicker gauge wire by drilling out the mounts i think this improved things,

does anyone have probs with the drive pins breaking or the inside of the wheels being chewed up where the pin should sit this has cost me a few wheels lately and i dont know why? the track is quite high grip (grass) and we run tallish spikes (traxxas kit)

[ross]

Originally posted by slow coach
carkar we have the same prob with the nt brakes the disk and pads seem ok it would appear that there is to much flex in the wire, a guy in the uk tried running a thicker gauge wire by drilling out the mounts i think this improved things,

does anyone have probs with the drive pins breaking or the inside of the wheels being chewed up where the pin should sit this has cost me a few wheels lately and i dont know why? the track is quite high grip (grass) and we run tallish spikes (traxxas kit)

Are you the same slow coach from the BNRC forum?

[jasonrcfreak]

I just bought one of the new Losi Shock Matching Tools. Looks interesting, can't wait to see how good it works.

Anyone else tried one of these?

Thanks
J

[cave]

Got Speed You are way to honest bro lol. Did you ever copy that diff adjusting deal? seams like some of these folks need it. Its definatly way humid and hot out there. Gunna miss your shade BM. We'll see ya Saturday.

Carkar you must be doing sumptin wrong cause If you adjust the brake arm forward you sould end up braking when your at neutral. You have to pust the brake arm to the front of the truck. Adjust both collets forward. Replace the springs with 3/8" of fuel line on both sides of the joint. Example ()-< >-[]-< >-()
() = collets
< > = 3/8" fuel line
[] = joint
- = bar from servo
If you tighten the brake too tight you will strip the lower treaded shaft out and lose your brake parts... I know from reality.
You should be able to slide all the parts onto the bar from the servo. The fuel line is stiffer than the springs and have a better feal in my opinion. On the carb side its the same but I use the springs cause they are alot more forgiving
I adjust my servo so that the throttle is all the way out. Next I adjust the collets so that the brake grabs when I push the trigger forward WHALA brakes. I just need em to bring the front end forward in the air .lol.
sorry for the novel but I had the same problem till some one told me HOW to adjust the brake...

cave

[Carkar]

It doesn't seem to be a problem with how the linkage is set. The problem seems to be the servo doesn't have enough travel to apply enough brake; and yes, I have put the servo horn on the output shaft many different ways. I just can't figure it out!:mad:

[Got Speed]

slow coach- I noticed the flex thing you are talking about but after a bit of tinkering with the colars and the brake clips I was finally able to get it to brake as hard as I wanted. Sometimes I have to readjust it to get more brake.

jasonrcfreak- I havn't tried one. Tell me how you like it. I was setting my shocks the other day with my caliper and I was amazed how far off my right shock was from my left. My shock collars went up about 4 turns different on the left side!

cave- I'm not sure if I will miss that week or not yet. I hate to give up a race day but I might just delay it untill september and go two saturdays in a row instead. I never found those diff instructions. I'll probably retype them later and save them for later cut and pasting. hehe. Are you using a stock servo for throttle? You've seen the problems I've been having out there with mine, lol.


I have been having problems with my stock throttle servos stripping out. In the past 3 races I have stripped 4 throttle servo gears. My throttle return spring isn't really tight. It is only tight enough to pull the throttle back to neutral when I shut the radio off with the car on. There isn't anything causing it to strain alot. When I took my T-Maxx's "high torque"(lol) servo out I decided to try that and it stripped a gear or two as well. This is becoming a real pain because alot of times I don't even notice it untill I check my radio right before my race then I have to run with it that way. Or very quickly put it back together. Sorry for the long post but if anyone could help me out with whatever is wrong here I'd appreciate it.

Thanks

[Got Speed]

Sorry, I thought I'd add one more thing about the brakes.

Carkar- I took my inside brake pad and shoe goed it to the tranny case. It wouldn't rattle around or cause unneeded drag. It didn't really give me any extra braking but it did eliminate a fair amount of drag.

[cave]

Got Speed I feel for you on the servo deal. I have the Stock RTR JR servo in the throttle position. I have the Airtronics High torque high speed servo for the steering. I have had no problem with either. Tony has had alot of the same luck as you. With both the Air t and the JR. You know how rough I drive ( cartwheels and all) So far so good. LOLOLOLOLOL. you had to be therel. lol.
I always seems that you find out seconds before the race. Could you be installing the gears in there correctly?. Mayfield said Tony's were in backwards. E mail Tony and ask him what JM said. Could be the same problem...

Carkar Just trying to help out. You said you have already tryed to adjust the Collers? I had mine so far forward that I had brakes on all the time till I adjusted the collers. I too have limited movement on the brake side of my servo. 5°-8° +-. Barely moves. I thought I needed a new servo but after I moved the collars forward it had too much brake action. Id post a pic of my setup but It takes to darn long to do it.
hth
cave

[Carkar]

I think I have the problem solved. I bent the lever to the brake a little and now the servo will really clamp down on it since I moved the collars after bending it. Thanks for all your help cave, got speed, and everyone else!:)

[Locus]

Hey guys, long time no post. Had to take some time off due to surgery on my right arm. Took me out for three months, but now I'm back and ready to play again.
-
Quick question...I keep having problems with my belt slipping off my gear when using the box to start the xxx-nt. Any suggestions to what might be the problem or how to fix it?? Here is the link to the box (it's the stainless steel one, upper left).
http://www.ofna.com/starters.html

Thanks,
Locus

[Got Speed]

cave- I'm sure the gears are in fine. Some of the times I just put a new servo I had in instead of replacing the gears. I still had the same problem after that. I don't think tony's gears could be in backwards he because the spline gear has to sit at one end on the little notched out brass peice. If you don't put everything back in the right order the case won't even shut. Tony said mayfield put it back together for him and he still had the same problem. He said he is going to send it in to Airtronics to have them fix it. If this problem persists I might just have to buy another metal gear servo like the hitec 625. Last week I only noticed when I turned my radio on right as they started wattering the track before the race and I noticed it in my T-Maxx. You saw how it broke all the ears off my throttle servo in the 1st qual. Wierd. I havn't been using those little rubber grommets but I put them on my NT before last saturday and don't have a problem with it anymore. Maybe that is it?

Carkar- No problem

[stefcold]

I keep breaking the rear shock tower ball studs. I would like to know the part number of the Traxxas captured end some of you guys are using.

Also any way to get the rest of a broken stud out of the shock tower.

Do you all run in the middle position, after the break I put one ball stud in the outside hole to finish the race and the truck seems to handle a bit better especially coming out of turns.

Stef...

[Got Speed]

stefcold- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDV6&P=7 Those are the ones. I use them only on my rear shock tower and havn't broken one since I got them 8 or 9 months ago. I had to move it to the outside position on the tower and the inside position on the axel carrier. Hope this helped.

cave- I might not be able to make it to the track on saturday. My MRC charger is broken. I took it apart and found a capacitor broken apart inside. If I can get the part at this electronic store called Tri-Tek I should be able to make it as long as it works. Hopefully I'll see you out there.

[Shady]

well i am back from the WC8 and finally caught back up on all the boards, and done braggin to some of my buddies who missed the race, finished 2 in the B, not bad considering the A was mainly factory drivers

[Temjin006]

Hi

I would like to know if there is anyways to convert a stadium truck to a monster truck. I heard that there is an article on this before.

[Got Speed]

Temjin006- I think there was an article pretty recently in an RCN or RCCA. With bigger tires you are more likely to break things and you won't be able to get a lot of ground clearence even with bigger tires.

[Ford Racer#1]

howdy,

i was just wondering is there a trick at getting the diff housing in the NT with out taking anything apart?

also is there an easy way to tell if your slipper is just rite??



THNX ahead of time

[BigBadTahoe]

I usually just disassemble the whole rear end but it easy after a few times. Well I run my slipper with about 5 threads sticking out. It might be a good place to start your tuning.;)

[Got Speed]

I run my slipper so that when the engine is properly tuned I can punch the throttle and not have the slipper slip at all. The slipper shouln't be used as a torque limiter or traction control it should only be used to take the shock out of the drive train. I have never used the stock setting the manual has in it I just go by how feels. Tighten enough so it won't slip under acceleration only after jumps or it might give under larger bumps.

[Got Speed]

cave- I typed up the diff thing and forgot to post it the other day. It looks like I will be going to the track. I am using my wall charger to charge everything. I'm going to buy a Piranha Digital Charger like the one he has hopefully today so I don't have to worry about charging at the track.

Here are the diff adjusting/building instructions I said I would retype. I posted it somewhere else yesterday so this is just a cut/past. lol sorry it's so long.

I'll type my whole diff instructions so I don't leave anything out. I'll make this as short as possible though.

The number one most important thing is to make sure your diff does NOT slip before the slipper. Even if it slips a little it is too loose. I have seen people go overboard both ways. Too loose means a melted diff. Too tight means and bad performing diff or possibly a stripped diff nut which if you don't notice it is stripped will allow the diff to loosen resulting in a melted diff. When rebuilding your diff always put a new thrust assembly and diff nut in. If those two things become two worn they will cause the diff to loosen itself which if not caught will cause a ruined diff. I go through a check between every race with my car to make sure everything is in order and one of those things is I check the diff to make sure nothing has happened to it. A diff won't loosen itself unless you neglect to rebuild it for a long time past it being due. This is not a problem with Losi diffs it will happen with other ball diffs too. When you start to screw the diff adjusting bolt back in stop every turn or so and work the diff back and forth several times to make sure everything seats properly. Once you can start feeling the bolt get tighter stop and hold both outdrives with allen wrenchs and try to turn the diff gear with your hand. It should turn pretty hard if it dosn't tighten it a little more. The bolt should never turn really hard(you should feel it getting harder but not too hard) if it does you are either cross threading the nut or are overtightenging the diff(the only exception would be if you are using a screwdriver with a small handle). Once it is fairly hard to turn the diff gear by hand with the outdrives locked then put it back in the truck. Now hear is where 90% of the people with diff problems go wrong, the adjusment of the slipper and diff.
Diff and slipper adjustment-
Put you slipper setting to the stock setting. Hold your left rear wheel and the spur gear in one hand while turning the right wheel forward. If you diff is tight enough your slipper plates will turn and your diff will not slip or "chirp" at all. You shouldn't be able to feel it slipping even a little even if you give the wheel an easy jerk forward. If the diff does slip tighten it 1/16-1/32 turn increments according to how much it slipped untill it no longer slips. Right at the point where it dosn't slip any more tighten it 1/16th of a turn. If the diff dosn't slip when you put it back in the truck then loosen the diff about 1/24th turn at a time just untill you can barely feel the diff slip. Then tighten it 1/16th of a turn.
Now work the diff back and forth by turning one wheel forward and another backward at the same time or by holding the spur gear from moving and turning one wheel back and forth. Do this for about 10 seconds. If you can feel the diff start to loosen you didn't replace the the thrust assembly and/or nut, didn't put it back together right, or you stripped the diff nut. When you work the diff back and forth don't be afraid if it is a little "crunchy" or "gritty" feeling. That is normal untill the diff is broken in which will take a couple of runs on it. You can run your diff now without breaking it in and it won't ruin it if adjusted right but I suggest a break-in mainly so you can tell if your diff isn't adjusted right before it is too late. There are several ways you can do it. You can start your car and hold one wheel for a second as you gently tap the throttle then hold the other wheel and gently tap the throttle holding each wheel for about a second. Do this about 10 times then check to make sure everything is still adjusted right. You can use a drill. Put one axel in the drill and hold the spur gear while pulling the trigger on the drill for about 2 seconds. Reverse the drill and do the same thing for another 2 seconds. Do this about 10 times or so then check to make sure everything is adjusted. Now you are ready to hit the track. Recheck to make sure you diff is adjusted right and loosen up the slipper some. Now get out there and run a tank of fuel without punching the throttle too hard. After about a tank or so bring it in and check the diff settings(If at any time you hear the engine rev higher than it should be for how fast the truck is going let off the throttle immedeatly and go check to see if the diff is adjusted right). Now you should have a fairly smooth diff(it will get smoother the next few tanks) with no problems. Now you can get out there and run again like normal. You should easily be able to run your diff for several gallons before rebuilding anything. If you have a powerful engine you will probably need to rebuild your diff a little more often than a less powerful engine. Every time you adjust your slipper you should recheck the diff to make sure it is adjusted correctly. When you go to check your car over before you run it be sure to check the diff as well. I only replace my diff rings, balls, and gear when the diff starts feeling "notchy" or gets really "gritty" feeling but I replace my thrust assembly, diff nut, and diff bolt every 2 gallons or so and have a very reliable diff. If I am only replacing the thrust, nut, and bolt I don't even have to take the tranny out. I just replace them through the outdrives. All this may sound hard and like bad engineering but it works very well and isn't very hard once you do it a few times. Follow the directions and you should be very happy. The losi diff is a great reliable diff that is every bit as durable as other diffs and only slightly harder to adjust. It looks like I couldn't keep it that short. lol I hope it isn't too hard to read through and I hope it helps.

[racer2]

Got Speed- Thanks for all the info.:)

[ross]

Got my drake on Tuesday lunchtime and had it fully built up excepy from radio and engine by tuesday night, not bad goin I thought. :) Still need to get a radio and my CVR needs a standard sized crankshaft since the short one I used in my old GT was way to short.

A little diff trick someone told me, instead of putting 12 washers in the outdrive put 10 and put hald of them alternate ways like this:

____________
((((())))) {**

the {** been the diff nut.

This apparently makes your diff more reliable.

[Got Speed]

racer2- no problem. Hope it helped. lol and that you could read it. :p

ross- Have you tried that? I've always put my washers so that the inside 6 were pointing in and outside 6 were pointing out. Like you have there except with 12 instead of 10. Right now I don't think I am using washers. I don't remember if I am using the spring or washers. I find them to work about the same. The spring is just easier to work with since it is only 1 big peice instead of 12 little ones.

[ross]

Got Speed,

Ive set my diff up like that, but has mentioned above I havent ran my truck yet because I have no radio gear.

[Got Speed]

Oh ok, sorry I wasn't paying attention or something. lol

[cave]

I dont have a problem with the washers the way the Manual says to put them in. I just get sloppy and tighten the slipper too much. Its been awhile since I did that tho. I have burned up a spur gear or two. A whole lot easier to replace.lol.

Got Speed Glad your comin out. I was looking forward to the freestyle deal but we waited to late to purchase the ticket. We can work something out on the chargers. I can bring my wall charger out too. I also got an old 6-7 cell charger from the old days that might work... I replaced my C hubs with the trinity ones. I hope the can withstand my drivin.lol. Later

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah, I was talking to tony about earlier he said you wouldn't know where you would get a ticket at and they are all the same price whether you get a good seat or a bad one. :( Thanks, I hope I have enough to make it through the day. I'm bringing everything charged so hopefully I will only have to recharge once or twice. See you then.

[cave]

GS I'm Looking for my wall charger right now just in case ya need it too.
Hope it dont monsoon tonight!
Hey i put the trinity Castor blocks on my NT and found out that I needed the same pivot pin as the one in the bottom for the one that goes vertical. luckly I had the old RTR ones. I got to get some titanium ball studs today for it. the short ones. see later BM.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Thanks. Isn't the bottom hinge pin shorter? I wonder why they changed it. I should be out there about 2:00 or somewhere in there.

[racer2]

how offen do you guys take your whole car apart and clean it. I mean take everything and clean it. i'm just wondering.

[Got Speed]

racer2- I take mine apart and clean it about every month. I clean it every time I drive it but I strip it down completely about once a month.

cave- Did I break your glow ignitor? It was fine when I used it but if it broke right after I used it I would buy you another one? LMK
Racing was pretty fun last night. lol I don't know what I was doing in the main though. I probably crashed more than both quals. together. lol You got first in your main didn't you?

Has anyone used RB's hot turbo plugs? I had one and my engine was running great untill I accidentaly plugged my glow ignitor into the 12V side of my box. I ordered 5 more of the exact same part plug and when I got them they looked different. They were RB's hot plugs but they were silver instead of black and the "hexed" part was shorter and there was a little lip where the rest of the "hexed" part should have been. I didn't think this would be a problem. Just that RB had made minor changes. Well my engine was running really bad last night(very hard to start and would stall without warning). I noticed that bubbles were coming from right around the plug in a little bit of oil. I thought it might be to loose but it wasn't. I thought it might have been some sort of machining problem with it so I tried 2 other ones which did the same thing. My old plug didn't do this and it ran great. Any help would be appreciated.

[speedydave]

On the diff subject, I've heard a lot of guys just use an Associated diff spring instead of the washers, and it makes it a lot more consistent.

[ross]

Originally posted by speedydave
On the diff subject, I've heard a lot of guys just use an Associated diff spring instead of the washers, and it makes it a lot more consistent.

I've heard mixed opinions on this, someone told me to use the Associated Diff Spring and someone else told me to put the stock washers in the diff in the way I described on the last page.

However, since I still havent got any damn radio gear I cant test either way. :(

Ross.

[cave]

Got Speed I was told that some one was checking our area out while we were racing. I dont know who it was. The guy who told me Is a friend of a friend. It looks like it was stolen bro. It wasnt your fault.. I'll get a new one by Saturday.

What goes around comes around.

I got first in the B main. I got in 11 laps. I dont know what you did to tune that Mugen but It was faster than it ever has been... Thanks GS. Thank your Grandma for the food too. I was still full Sunday. Tony missed out. LOL.
That Purple Lady has it in for me. She rammed me into the pipe on the start of the 1st heat then she rammed me agian into the pipe on the first turn. In the second heat she did the same thing. The drake is too light for me to hack like her. So, I'll make the skid plate again and I'll forget that shes a purple lady.lol. Still was a fun night.
Did you get to seal that leak on your turbo plug?
later

cave

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- it sounds to me like you got a batch of "cold" plugs, because those are the syptoms of "cold" plugs. I am not sure about the leaking thought. If you engine was hard to tune it could be that the plug is too long and therefore you increased compression.

Leland

[Got Speed]

On the diff subject I have heard of so many ways to put the washers in or different springs. I've tryed several different ways I've heard of. I think the stock washers or stock spring work fine. I liked 6 washers pointing away from each other. Right now I am using the losi spring and like it the most just because of conveneince and it works just fine.

cave- Oh ok. That's even worse then. Usually either me, you, tony, or my grandma is there but someone probably just sneaked in there when no one was around. At least one of us didn't get a car or radio stolen. I still have that leak. I noticed it threaded in alot easier than my old one but I thought that the threads just might be older or have a little dirt on them. I'm going to buy another brand of glow plug and try that. I've run it trying to get it tuned with this problem and obviously it was untuneable. After all that I've lost a fair amount of compression. :( So I'm going to send it in to osrocket to have him squeze it so I don't have to worry about it needing rebuilt in another gallon. 11 laps is great especially for "taking it easy", lol. I think purple lady has been hacking lately and been getting mad at some of the other drivers. I heard several people apolagizing for something after she raced the buggy. lol Last week I saw her racing T-Maxx.

maxman142001- I got the C5TC plugs which are the hottest ones the make. I thought about the plug being too long but when I saw the bubbles coming up it has to be an air leak. I think maybe there was a machining problem and some plugs might have come out smaller in diameter than they should have or something like that. I'm going to order an O.S. turbo or something like that and try it. Thanks

[cave]

GS I had the Igniter wrapped around the handle so it wouldnt be so easy to steal. Only the outer sleave and srpring were taken. It may have fallen off but I check it all the time. Live n learn .

I like the washers better than the spring. I have used both. I put them in the way the direction says to. I used all 12 and I really like them. The diff is tricky. Once you find that certain set up for your track you will eat spurs or stuff thats outside the case. We all think the stock set up from the manual will work with these powerfull engines abd get pist when they dont. Try to put a Big Block Chevy of Ford engine in place of a 327 or 350. Youll break alot of drive train parts there too. If you upgrade to the powerful .12 and .15s you should expect to ruin a few drive tran parts till you come up with the right combonation of diff slip and spur slip. Seams like most XXX NT owners have had this problem, myself included. lol. It take time to go from stock to super stock to modified. If you go ffrom the Mach .15 to the .12 RE Mugen MT get ready to burn some parts up at first. You will find the spot. Mine is set so that the spur gear gives before the diff slips. It takes some force to do tho. I start out so it slipps alot. Then tighten it up till I get the great bottom end take offs Yet dont destroy the diff gear. nuff said sorry for the Novel .
see ya BM next time your out... Thanks for the tunin:D
cave

[Got Speed]

cave- No problem. I found that franks hobby house is the only place I can get a hot turbo plug that isn't through mail order. I went and picked up a novarossi hot turbo plug today and will hopefully try it tommorow. If it works great I'm going to send back all 5 plugs I bought from ace hardware hobbies. It looks like I bought $35 worth of not only useless but harmful plugs.

[K9pusher]

Has anyone heard anything about these? I just saw them on the Team Losi website under new products. Thanks for any input.

[isa268]

its not even out yet but it looks promising.

losi should make chassis parts and diff gears from this stuff too.

[K9pusher]

I agree completely! Kevlar is light weight and pretty darn strong. Most of the protective gear that I use at work is made of kevlar fibers. Definately defines bulletproof!

[Got Speed]

K9pusher- Nice. I havn't been to their web site for a few weeks. Is this going to be a running change to all new Losi vehicles? Or will it be an upgrade part?

Thanks

[K9pusher]

Got Speed - Looks like Losi has the Kevlar gear for 4 different models, one of them being our XXX-NT! I went to my LHS today to ask about it. The guy there called Losi and the girl on the phone said she does'nt even show a listing for it. It is however on their website, so it is coming. On the website it was showing a price of $4.00 for it. So if nothing else it should be a cheap, reliable upgrade.

[cave]

It cost around 3 bucks for the plastic spur gear. I wonder if this would make the diff gear the weekest link. That would suck. Now if Losi would make the diff gears out of Kevlar that would be awesome. Seams like Most people here have problems with the diff adjustment. You would think someone at Losi would get feedback from this site. Why would they make a spur gear first and not the entire diff gear assembly. My weekest link now is the spur gear. I would rather spin a spur than a diff gear.
Dont mean to through gas on a great idea. I just wish Losi would improve on things that matter than a part that save my diff.
Just my -.00001 cents

Oh yea, Welcome to the board K9pusher. Cool nn. Please dont take my post wrong. I like others here have spent weeks trying to find the sweetspot on my diff/spur adjustment. My spur gear is what gives before my diff.

cave

[Got Speed]

K9pusher- It appears to be a running change then. Great. Maybe the will make the rest of the tranny gears the same after time.

cave- You have problems stripping spur gears? I don't have any trouble with my diff gear or anything but I do think it would be better to make a diff gear first since it appears to be the weaker part even if it is adjusted right. I went to frank's hobby house the other day and asked for a hot turbo plug(I called to ask if they had one first). The guy in cars told me to go up front. I went up there and there two guys up there. Frank and some other guy they were just sitting there talking. I told the "other" guy what I wanted and he said he didn't think there were any. Frank asked what a turbo plug was lol. Then the guy from the cars came forward and pointed them out. Well the two in the front started arguing after I bought the plug and when I got home I found out it was a cold plug. :rolleyes: So now I have to go all the way back to 32nd st. and cactus.

[rhcsavage21]

ok if i have the cv-rx .12 should i gear my xxx-nt down?

[K9pusher]

cave - Trust me, I understand what you are saying. I have yet to run a full gallon of fuel through my NT yet so I'm not going to get upset by your comments. I have been ghosting on the boards for a while trying to get my bearings. I ran a electric RC10 in HS like 10 years ago, so nitro is a new experience for me. I'm just trying to get as much info as possible. Thanks for all the help fellas!

[cave]

GS I havnt had too many stripped spurs. I would rather burn up a spur gear than a diff.lol. I adjust it on the loose side so if it loosens up a tad it burns up from the heat. Mugen heat.lol.
That seams to be the normal way those counter poeple are. Thats why I like SRS. I can BS with the guys.

rhcsavage21
Why would you have to regear? Seams to me that your gunna be faster on the bottom and the top.

K9pusher
this is th place for set up info on the XXXnT, Welcome. Careful with that diff adjustment.lol.

cave

[rhcsavage21]

cave- well for some odd reason when ever i hit the throttle in stead of going faster it will stay the same and will rev down. i do not know what to do. i might just switch back

[cave]

rhcsavage21 how did you regear? did you get a 19, 20 or 21 tooth chutch bell? I run the 18 tooth and I like it. Its plenty fast. I have not seen a spurgear that has more cogs for the NT. is your motor new? hows the compression? Do you have a way to get a temp reading? It may be to fat (Rich). Is your brake draggin ? Are your dog bones jamming up? Is your diff setting to tight? More info please.

cave

[rhcsavage21]

its not new i traded for it (t-maxx mashers+ rims and a slice of pizza) but he said he rebuilt the whole thing. my brakes ar not dragging but maby my spur is to tight. and i think i might have to rebuild it becuse it overheated and it was to lean so i am going to losen some things lean some thing and see were that puts me.

[Got Speed]

cave- Oh ok. I've never burned up a losi spur(other than the time my tranny case was ruined) but I have ruined some slipper pads from it being too loose. What's that one guy's name? The shorter guy with the short brown hair that works in SRS. He hates tony for some reason. lol He used to be like that to me too but not any more. :confused:

rhcsavage21- It sounds to me like you got a good deal! It also sounds like your engine needs rebuilt. My very first nitro(RC10GT RTR) had the same problem. Instead of stalling it would pick up speed then the engine would just slow down and keep going like that getting a little slower all the time.

[MrCrash]

Savage,try running it again,but use your dad's temp gun to keep an eye on the temp.Keep it under 250,but about around 210,and see what happens.

[rhcsavage21]

what color should the top of the piston be???

[MrCrash]

The piston itself?Metal colored.Like aluminum or steel colored.DEFINITELY NOT brown or black.Oh,and blue is acceptable:p ;)

[rhcsavage21]

what if it is black

[MrCrash]

it was ran WAY too lean,and overheated EXTREMELY badly.

Oh,and Savage,project Psychodelic Colors is in motion:D

[rhcsavage21]

but when i was running it it was running relly rich about 4 1/2 turns out. break in setings was 2 turns out

[MrCrash]

I dunno what to say then.

[rhcsavage21]

mabey it was my low end needle was to lean

[MrCrash]

could be.Who knows really.Maybe you were just too rough on it,and it couldn't get decent cooling no matter what.Remember that time I was runnign really rich,but my engine still overheated,and it was like 40 degreed out?Same situation.Did you have the body on?

[rhcsavage21]

no and i was driving slow. on low grass.

[MrCrash]

Can you wipe off the black?

[rhcsavage21]

don't know should i try thow

[MrCrash]

dab at it with a q-tip,and see if it comes off.Don't try REALLY hard,or you might screw it up even more.

[rhcsavage21]

nope. but know its more of a dark gray

[MrCrash]

Does it have any compression left?If not,it's a write off,so go grab a bugle and a shovel,and put the flag at half mast.

[rhcsavage21]

still compresion

[MrCrash]

how much?Can you turn over the flywheel with one finger?

[rhcsavage21]

well not really but i just tried to fire it up and :



IT LIVES!

[cave]

Got Speed We call him Richard Crainium. He's cool with me. I BS with him all the time. He always askes me "Now what did you break". Nothing I just came in to cool off since its 115° outside lol. Tony and him race in the same class. Maybe thats why they dont click.

cave

[rhcsavage21]

after futher investigation i found out were the smocke was coming from of my cv-rx. it was coming fom a zip tie on my air filter. becuse i forgot to cut the exseuse off of it.:rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, maybe. He's fine with me now. He used to be the same way with me that he is to tony.

rhcsavage21- LOL

[MrCrash]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid38/p06750f3f8bce1b30b8d91a0a93d38c4d/fd130084.gif http://www.*************.com/forum/images/slap.gif

[rhcsavage21]

and i found a nother thing wrong.


my carb won't close all the way!!!! :( :( :(

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- Will it close all the way if you push it closed with your finger? If so, take it apart and clean it. If not, it might be your idle screw. When it is screwed too far in it won't allow it to close all the way.

I finally got those TRC tires. I'm going to try them out next saturday if I can. The wheels seem alot sturdier to me than Losi's wheels. The front tires look pretty promising. The rears look similar to the bowties but I don't know how well they will work in comparison.

[cave]

GS I wont be there this Saturday. I'm taking the boat out. Tony is in Las Vegas. No shade LOL. That may change if my boat has problems.lol. later.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Ok, I won't be there either this week. Hopefully next week. If I get my engine running right. If not, I might be able to get my CV-R broken in and ready again.

[Twist 2 Go]

Alright guys, I am looking at buying a Drake kit and I already have a MT-12 and Jr radio setup to use. What othe rparts are a neccessity for this truck? not eye-candy but something that I will have to upgrade to in the near future?

[MikeWz]

Nothing. That's the best engine out there, the radio you have is really good, and the drake kit is absolutely amazing. You will need to buy lots of tires in the future though. They tend to go real fast, and if the track conditions ever change so will your tires.

[MrCrash]

I fixed rhcsavage21's carb for him.The throttle arm was loose.


:rolleyes: :p

[Got Speed]

Twist 2 Go- You will need one thing if you plan to use the MT-12. You will need the rear exhuast header. It's about $15. Like MikeWz said tires are definatly a good thing to buy if you plan on racing primarily at one track. If you feel the need to upgrade you can always upgrade what you break alot. One thing it seems alot of people break though which turns out to be a pain is breaking rear ball studs. I would suggest buying a set of Traxxas captured ends($5) and put use two of them on the rear inside turnbuckles. Otherwise sounds like a great way to go.

[Shady]

Twist-rear exhaust header (i would suggest the mugen header), traxxas ends for the inside rear, and a trinity rear piviot block, those are the only things i have changed on my Drake

[Twist 2 Go]

I already have the mugen header. I kept the motor,pipe, and radio setup from the MST-1 I sold. What normally breaks on these trucks? I had already heard the rear ballstuds break rather easily as well as the rear battery box. What I'm looking at, is that after I buy the kit, I won't have a lot of extra money to waste on upgrades (wife has me on a STRICT budget, :D ) and I don't want to get the truck and realize I need to spend a lot more money for alumunium this, etc.,etc..... Thanks for the replies.

[Twist 2 Go]

What spare parts are needed. Also, what springs ans shock pistons come in the kit? What springs, pistons, and oils are needed also? Thanks

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- Last thurs. I went over to race at srs. I entered the race and everything, but my cv-r was giving me problems. Everytime i set the wheels on the ground and gave it throttle it stalles! I let the engine warm up and every thing but still no go. A guy at the track that had a xxx-nt witha sirio in it told me to lean out the low end that helped a little bit except when i was tuning my engine someone had the same frequency as me causing my car to go full throttle into a parked truck! NO damage except for a ballcup. SRS really needs to get frequency clips.:) I finally got the car to run ok so i put it on the track and man was it fast! But after only 2-3 laps it stalled. I think the needles are too lean. By this time only a few minutes before the race started so i backout.:mad: Hopefully you can help me with this problem, so i can meet up with you soon and kick some a$$!:p

By the way did you get that whole glow plug thing straightened out?

Thanks
Leland

[Got Speed]

Twist 2 Go- I wouldn't upgrade anything untill you break it. What you break depends on how you drive. Some people say they constantly break battery boxs. I've only broken one after alot of hard hits. Some people break pivot blocks alot. Some people the ball studs. If you want to upgrade before you start driving I would suggest getting an aluminum pivot block and traxxas rod ends for the rear inside. Everything else will break if you hit it hard enough just like any other truck but overall it is pretty durable. I see the weak points being the pivot block and rear ball studs. Before you start messing with the shock oils, pistons, springs, etc try the drake setup or stock setup. They work pretty good on most tracks. Or you can try starting with what the fast guys run at your track. The drake comes with 40wt. oil and orange springs rear, and red springs front.

maxman142001- Did you engine bog down or just stall? Do you have a temp gauge? If so, how hot was it? If it was in a reasonable temperature you probably had a lean low end or your engine needs rebuilt. I hope to get to Frank's today and get the right glow plug(since they sold me the wrong one). Hopefully it will work fine then. If not, I'm going to buy a new fuel tank to see if that is also a problem. If it still gives me trouble I'm rebuilding my CV-R so I can use it if I have to. I hope to be out there next saturday. I can help you out with the CV-R if you are going to be out there.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- It just stalls. It was running about 210-230 deg. I am positve i dont need a rebuild, do you think it could be the glow plug because I replaced it before I started the engine. Plus I forgot to mention that I havent run the engine for 3-4 months. I am not sure i will be out there next Sat. because school starts tomm.:mad: Hopefully i can make it out there soon.

Thanks
leland

[cave]

Twist 2 Go Trinity Rear Pivot block is probably the one thing I would recament . Its around 29-32 bucks. Its a pain to replace the plastick one. Its cost around 4 bucks. Alot cheaper but if you break it again in the middle your race your done. Some say its cheaper to replace it with the plastic. I myself havent touched mine since. I never installed the graphite one. I gave it to Got Speed. I run 35 wt all around this may be different than you track. I run real soft pink in the rear. Arms 1/8" below level. Fronts are red set at just below level Ide say 1/16" I run real good thru the woops and recover nicly over the tripples. cornering isnt to bad. Good luck. You have the best engine out there.

cave

[Twist 2 Go]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I will just get the kit for now and run in outta the box and see what happens. There was also a setup on the losi website I may try,if I don't like the standard setup. Here is a link to my local track. They run mostly 1/8 scale but there is usually 1 heat of trucks.

http://www.debbiesrcworld.com/CLUB.htm

We usually run step pins and directionals as there is too much loose stuck for Holeshots to work. Is there another tire that might work?

[BlueBlaster01]

Been Awhile since I posted here...(I used to post in XXXNT V1.0)
I got out of the hobby, after my truck really pissed me off after a complete tear down, and worn part replacement rebuild.
Thought I'd say Hi...and post pics of my truck from before I sold it on EBAY.
http://auffarth.com/XNT9.jpg
She was looking sweeeeet!
If you guys don't remember me...I was the guy that had aluminum arms before they were actually sold by another company. The company that used my truck as a prototype tester decided they didn't want to sell them because It wouldn't be cost effective...I sold my one brand new pair on ebay for $70 awhile back. :eek:

I had also just gotten a new body painted...never even mounted it before I sold it.
http://auffarth.com/XNT7.jpg

Later...

[dkj-M3]

nice layout. It looks to me like red step-pins with the stock foam or trinity bomb 1 grey foam, should work.
I run on a track with similar dirt. They tilled & added mulch to the dirt mixed it real good & it holds moisture long enough for us to run all the mains & play afterwards & its still hooked up.

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- Yea, I know what it is like. I started school last monday. :( Anyway, it sounds like either a bad glow plug or it could possibly be a lean low end. Hopefully I'll see you out there.

Twist 2 Go- You can get an idea by looking at the pictuers of the track but it isn't anything like actually driving it and setting it up accordingly. Untill you get more experience actually driving on the track you probably won't notice if your adjustments did any good or not. You should try and find out what some of the fast guys run at your track and start from there. Practice on it alot and make one adjustment at a time untill it feels the best for your driving.

[Laterilus]

Hey all, just had to shoot a question to you guys about none other than what appears to be the most common problem on this forum... the diff. Now, I looked through a few of the last pages for someone else that may have posted my question, but I didn't see it so pardon me if this is a repeat. I've noticed everyone keeps talking about finding the sweet spot with the diff/spur. Well, I've taken some advice here to have the spur slip slightly before the diff, but that really hasn't solved my peculiar problem.... When I mash on the gas in dry conditions (dusty is the worst) and even sometimes in fairly good damp conditions, my NT begins to pull badly to the left and it isn't anything to do with steering. It almost appears that one of my rear tires spins faster than the other. I've been having this problem for awhile now and it didn't do this when I first got this truck. I can somewhat compensate for the pulling by really feathering the throttle, but it obviously slows me down hella on the track. I know some of you may think that it is probably just my driving.... I thought that as well until it got so frustrating that I asked my local track's best driver to take a look at my truck and drive a few laps. He was overwhelmed at how badly my car handled.... great, so it wasn't just me. He said I needed a diff rebuild, so I did that. I didn't change the inner balls since I have the drake kit and they were carbide I believe. I took it out to the track the next day and it worked somewhat better, but not too much and after 2 tanks of fuel the diff was extremely gritty! 2 tanks! I took it apart and the diff rings had huge running grooves in them already! Anyways, I'm really at my ends here and I need some help. I've replaced the balls with the standard ones now, cleaned the diff again, and rebuilt it back together. I bought a new set of losi red step pins and I'm ready to give it one more shot out on the track with all new parts to cover all possibilities that may be causing the problem. If this doesn't fix it, I'm outta ideas and the frustration of this truck may send me to get a GT. As all of you know, it is a pain in the neck to get at anything on this truck. Too much stuff must be taken apart to get to anything! I gotta get this diff working and last somewhat longer than one full race day. If anyone has had this problem and has fixed it, let me know how you did it. BTW, just for info sake, I am running RR diff gear and I changed to the spring as opposed to the washers just to see if that would help. running the diff tight or loose gives the same undesirable effect of pulling to the left. Man, why can't losi or someone else just make a gear diff? I would much rather buy a few different weights of diff oil over messing with this ball diff. It gives me so much trouble! Sorry for the long post, just been frustrated and I would like to go back to losing races by my driving, not problems with my truck!:)

[isa268]

get the whole nifftech diff assembly.

notched hardened steel outer drives, notched hardened diff rings, iner diff assembly, crome steel diff balls. that should make it bullet proof. thats what im doing next. that and waiting for losi to make the kevlar diff gear.

niftech.com (http://www.niftech.com/)

[Got Speed]

Laterilus- I posted a long post about adjusting the diff a page or three back. It sounds though like you are having another problem that I didn't mention too. When it pulls like that it is called torque steer. What you should do is tune down your clutch some or just be easier on the throttle finger. If you have a hard track that is watered for the races it will always be a pain to run on dry. It also eats up tires 3 times faster than when it is wet. My track is like that and I have it set up to run when it is wet for the races. I try to only practice when it is wet. I might get out there with some old tires just to tune but I usually wait untill it is watered. If it still has alot of torque steer when the track is wet I'd make sure you are using the right tires and that your set up isn't way off. If not, then just tune down your clutch some. The other problems you are having now that you rebuilt it I posted about several pages back.

[jdm3849]

Well right before I went on vacation ( 1 month ago) I took the ol' xnt to the skatepark and went off the quarter pipe going about 40 and cleared the perimeter fence and then some. Once my friend uploads the vid i'll give ya tha link. I did it about 8 times and broke 1 a-arm and a rear arm mount , zip ties fixed that.

[purplerides]

niftech - beware i only know of one guy that tried them in his XXXNT.He bought 2 complete diff. set-ups , both of them blew up in about 3 laps , he threw them both in the trash ,very expensive experiment. sorry i can't tell you what your doing wrong with the stock Losi parts i've had good luck with them , and i've also have tried with AE diff. spring with also good luck,ithink the diff. spring is a little easier to get adjusted it has a larger range of adjustment ,where as the cone washer has a very narrow band , losi's rtr comes with a spring i've never tried that but it probably works as good as the AE spring did.

[Shady]

my niftech diff has been in my trk since march, checked it a few times but still looks good, its been through 4 big races and many many club races

[Laterilus]

Got Speed, thanx for the info and different angle to look at. Torque steer? hmmmm... I never thought of that. Could it be I am strapping in way too much power into the truck? I run a rear exhaust Omega/picco. Wicked low end. Gets up in a hurry. Also, I've never "tuned down" a clutch. I've only tuned to make it engage quicker. Right now my clutch is setup the stock way you would put it in. What would you suggest I do to tune it down? Lastly, I'll agree that tires have a big role in this problem as well. What tires/foams do you suggest for different conditions with this truck? I absolutely love Losi's step pins for wet conditions, but my tracks are pretty lazy about the whole water down thing. I usually end up racing in dry conditions (dusty) or blue groove. Dry and dusty I hate the most. And yes, you are right, those conditions will eat through a set of step pins quickly. So what do you suggest?.... Man, I feel like a noob. I've been racing for 4 years now but only with various 4wd cars/trucks. The whole 2wd off-road racing still is baffling me, but it sure is fun when you can get the truck set up right.

[MikeWz]

Laterilus-For dry and dusty conditions I would go for Proline M3 compound bow ties. Those will hook you up really good. Instead of using step-pins, try some T-2000's. I've found those work really well on my track. As for down tuning a clutch, the way I've always done it was putting some metal tubing in my clutch. Get some small brass/copper tubing, drill a matching size hole in one shoe and glue in a piece of the tube. You have to put the same size in both shoes however. That'll make your clutch engage a little later

GS-where has Cave been. Haven't seen him in a while. Is his comp still fighting that virus?

[Got Speed]

Laterilus- I'd start by seeing what the faster guys run for tires. If everybody has a preference just try something and see if you like it. As MikeWz said try the M3 bowties. They seem to be one of the most popular tires used for dry hard tracks. If it is blue grooved you might find something like the Holeshot works better. But the smaller the tread the faster it will wear. If it is dusty you will eat up at least a pair of holeshots in one night which gets expensive.

MikeWz- I'm not sure but I think he is on vacation.

[MikeWz]

Psh, Vacation. He's not allowed to take a vacation. He's probably out on his insane boat that I'm very jealous of. I was supposed to go out by you guys, but I had to pay for a bunch of college stuff so I'm pretty short on money. Maybe next summer.

[cave]

Hey Im right here. Ive been paying all my bills. Heavy every 6 months all the insurance bills come in. Plus the motgage and normal bills. eeerrerrrrrrrrrrrrr I'll try to get out to SRS on Saturday Maxxman Might be there.lol maybe Got Speed? buddie I need shade.lol


cave

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- That would be cool.

cave- Oh ok, sorry. Is tony on vacation? Maybe that's what I was thinking?

I'll should be there as long as I either get my engine running right or get my OS piston/sleeve in the mail by then.

[cave]

Tony is always on vacation. That was it GS. He and his woman headed back to LAS Vegas for the weekend. Any time I take a vacation I get called back to work cause some one else doesnt show up. Hows school. Hows Grandma. Good I hope. We will see ya next time you come out.
maxman Staurdays are much more fun to race. More time between heats to tinker.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Oh ok. lol :p I should be out there this saturday. I really hope to. I'm going to try out those TRC tires too. School? I don't know who ever said chemistry was science. I call it math. :p Anyway hopefully I'll see you out there. :)

maxman142001- Like cave said. It is alot more fun on saturdays. More people to race and talk with. More time to work on your car. It goes later but it isn't so bad since it isn't a school night. Hope to see you out there.

[Locus]

Hey, I found this guy selling this, but he can't confirm the Trinity Part number. Does this look like the TK5073 (XXXT/NT CRE Conversion Rear End)????

[cave]

Got Speed, did you fix your Charger? We will be there tonight. @ SRS. MAXman? you able to come & Play? GS I dont know what time we will be out . I hope it doesnt MonSoon....

cave

[maxman142001]

Gotspeed and Cave- It looks like I am not going to be able to make it out there tonight.:mad: LOL My parents want me to go to Bob Bonderonts Race Car Driving School.:p Hopefully I will be able to make it out there next week. I am taking IntoTech this year and plan to make some really trick stuff for my XXX-NT.:D

Locus- That looks to be the kit for the xxx, because the driveshafts are too small.

Talk to you guys later,
Leland

[Got Speed]

cave- Sorry I couldn't post sooner. Our phone lines have been down for a couple of days. :( I'm not going to be able to make it out today. Maybe next week I'm not sure. I ended up getting a new charger(like Tony's). I think I might be able to fix my old one though. I also got my engine working right. I took the head off to inspect the threads and make sure nothing was wrong. I couldn't find anything wrong at all so I put it back together and tried it again. It works perfect now. Better than it did before. I had more power than I had before, it was only running 180, and it has a whole lot more compression than when it did before. I think maybe something got in between the head and sleeve. The glow plug still bubbles a little too but it dosn't stall or anything. sorry for the long post, lol, hopefully I'll be out there again pretty soon.

Locus- I'm pretty sure there isn't a conversion for the NT. Like maxman said those CVDs are too short to be for the NT or XXX-T.

[Locus]

Max and Speed thanks for the information!!!

[cave]

Any one else paying 3 bucks a gallon for gas here in the U.S.? We here in Arizona are getting gouged by some oil and or gas company.
I waited in line for an hour to get gas Sunday night and the gas station ran out before I could fill up.

Got Speed I got second place in the B main. I broke with 45 seconds to go. Ball stud gave out in the rear. I still had enough laps to place second. Iwas cool out. Hope you make it out soon.
How much you all paying for gas in the west valley? i may not make it in to work on time. I havnt taken a bus in years here.
Later.

cave

[mj_bandit]

Any of you guys want a niceFfront Aluminum Skidplate for your XXX-NT ??????????:D

[rhcsavage21]

i do.
my skidplat right know is not that good and it is almost gone.:rolleyes:

[rhcsavage21]

i really need to know. my flywheel will not say on. i will titen it down then once i start it, it comes lose the screw will stay on but i have no clue what to do.

[MrCrash]

Put some washers behind it.Just take your engine,and like 5 dolars up to prop-shop,and get some small engine spacer washers,and you will be set.I went through the same crap with my engine.

[rhcsavage21]

ooooo:rolleyes: i am dumb. ok i wil;l go lopl for those

[MrCrash]

Have fun lopling for them;) :p

[Got Speed]

cave- Cool. I might be out there thursday to get a part but I won't be racing. I probably won't be out there till the saturday after next. I'm so glad I've got everything working right again. lol
We got gas yesterday at $1.89. Fortuanatly there was only a 20 minute line during the day. That's pretty bad it ran out before you got there. Is tony back from vacation? See you soon.

[ross]

I've just fitted double disk brakes on my XXXNT, it should make the breaking slightly stronger. Its not that hard to do, it just involved cutting some brass tubing down to the right size and cutting a screw down to the right size. You also need another brake pad and of course another disk.

Hopefully Ill be able to post some pics soon.

[Locus]

Hey guys, got my (TK5071 - XXX One Degree Rear Hub) in the mail today. I was taking the current rear hub off the back of the truck and notice that this is not the exact same piece. How does this work? It says it fixs the xxxnt....below is a pic of it:

[dkj-M3]

Locus- http://www.thedrake.net/pictures/DSCN3597.JPG

read the little manual in the bag.

The ones that came with the short dogbones look like the ones for the electric buggy- xxx

[Got Speed]

ross- If you don't mind my asking why did you need 2 break disks? You can get the wheels to lock up if you want with only one if it is set up right.

[cave]

Locus
There the same thing except the Trinty ones have the ball studs vertically. Use titanium short ball studs. I put regular ballstuds in and they roke. Ive since replaced them with the Ti ones. I have the 2° hubs and it tracks well. Oh dont forget the spacers on the pivot pins. there should be 2. You can put one on each side or double them up in front or behind. This gives you a few °s of adjustabuility. Try it out on your track to dial it in.

Got Speed It was nice on Saturday night. Tony is back, e mail him. See ya in a couple of weeks. I might be working Saturday for ESPN 2 here in Phoenix. No racing on saturday :(
I paid 3 bucks a gallon here in mesa for gas. I got there at 4 am no cars in line cause the signs said NO GAS. I got 30 gallos for my Tahoe. x3=90$ What a rip off. I was on Empty and had no chioce. That will definatly cut my racing funds down. I wish I had a bike and lived in a state where the tires wouldnt melt mid day.lol.

cave

[ross]

I've been asked that a few times. Its just something that I thought I would try and see how it goes, I can always go back to using single disk brakes.

Everyone I have talked to at the track who owns a XXXNT says you have to get used to not having alot of brakes. So I doubt many of them can lock the wheels with the single disk brake. However even with the twin disk brakes it doesnt feel as if it will lock the wheels but it does feel stronger than the original set up.

[Shady]

i can lock the brakes up on my NT with ease, you just have to adjust it right, its rare that you will need to lock the brakes up though so i don't really see why you would want to.....

[Got Speed]

cave- Does that mean I won't be seeing you out there on saturdays any more? Or is this only sometimes. Yea, I'll give tony a call or email. $3!? wow. I though $2.30 was bad over here.

ross- I think most people don't have it adjusted right. With stock linkages and servo you can get it to lock up the wheels if you want. It takes some tinkering with the linkages though. My GTs brakes were just as hard to adjust. It seems you have to readjust them every several races though to keep them adjusted right. I see alot of people with their brake clips on backwards too. You have to be careful if you drive on asphalt with a lot of brakes because it will heat up the the screws and melt the case.

[ross]

Originally posted by Got Speed
cave- Does that mean I won't be seeing you out there on saturdays any more? Or is this only sometimes. Yea, I'll give tony a call or email. $3!? wow. I though $2.30 was bad over here.

ross- I think most people don't have it adjusted right. With stock linkages and servo you can get it to lock up the wheels if you want. It takes some tinkering with the linkages though. My GTs brakes were just as hard to adjust. It seems you have to readjust them every several races though to keep them adjusted right. I see alot of people with their brake clips on backwards too. You have to be careful if you drive on asphalt with a lot of brakes because it will heat up the the screws and melt the case.

Yep it took me a while on the GT before I had any decent brakes. However I found the Losi linkage alot easier to set up. Im not sure weather it makes any difference to the braking weather you use slide or rotary carb.

[Locus]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
Locus- http://www.thedrake.net/pictures/DSCN3597.JPG

read the little manual in the bag.

The ones that came with the short dogbones look like the ones for the electric buggy- xxx

dkj-M3 - thanks for the pic, that helps out a lot. unfortunately the rear hubs came with no instructions. I should be able to set it up now.

[Locus]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cave
[B]Locus
There the same thing except the Trinty ones have the ball studs vertically. Use titanium short ball studs. I put regular ballstuds in and they roke. Ive since replaced them with the Ti ones. I have the 2° hubs and it tracks well. Oh dont forget the spacers on the pivot pins. there should be 2. You can put one on each side or double them up in front or behind. This gives you a few °s of adjustabuility. Try it out on your track to dial it in.

Cave - thanks for the heads up on the ti ball studs. i ordered some today. I'll be installing the rear hubs this weekend hopefully.

[cave]

Got Speed it depends on how it all goes. I may be there If I can finish the work inside the B unit by race times.

Ross I have good brakes. I like them as air brakes. I seams to brake just fine on the track. It does develop ware on the disk. I adjust it every other race and sometimes the first race is a bit loose. I guess it couldnt hurt. Id like to have an Aluminum Diff case. I seam to strip the holes out when I use the brake alot. I do drive hard so I would say that has a greater effect on the diff case. Im talking about the holes that hold the brake shafts. I think they get alittle hot after the straightaways when Im on the pipe then brake hard.

Locus No problem. I got the front ones too. I drive hard so I have spurts where I break a few things. All part of racing off road. A whole lot cheaper than the real offroad trucks.LOL. Do you have the Aluminum rear pivot block? If you dont that will be your next weakest link. The rear A arms will hold up to the walls and pipes but the plastic and graphite will tend to snap at the pivot pins when adding the Aluminum hubs. Now if you are a perfect driver, disregaurd my last quote. Good racing

cave

[ross]

Originally posted by cave
Got Speed it depends on how it all goes. I may be there If I can finish the work inside the B unit by race times.

Ross I have good brakes. I like them as air brakes. I seams to brake just fine on the track. It does develop ware on the disk. I adjust it every other race and sometimes the first race is a bit loose. I guess it couldnt hurt. Id like to have an Aluminum Diff case. I seam to strip the holes out when I use the brake alot. I do drive hard so I would say that has a greater effect on the diff case. Im talking about the holes that hold the brake shafts. I think they get alittle hot after the straightaways when Im on the pipe then brake hard.



If your having problems with the stripping the holes out, try using cap head screws instead, you can use one as long has you like on the top hole but the screw on that bottom hole has to be just the right length otherwise it hits the diff.

[purplerides]

$3.00 bucks a gallon wholly cow! man i stopped for gas yesterday and was mad because it jumped up .20 cents to $1.54 but , i guess it doesn't look bad now , i hope it doesn't go up to $3.00 a gallon because both me and my wife have Tahoes.

with the proper adjustment i have always been able to set my brake up to lock up if i want . I normally have the linkage set so it can , i have my atv maxed out , then once it one the track i have a grip dial for the ATL and adjust it so it doesn't lock up to where i like it , then during long mains if it starts fading or for any reason need more brake ,i add some with the grip dial.

[Racin Rev]

where do you guys live that you are paying that much for gas? and why?

[Locus]

Locus No problem. I got the front ones too. I drive hard so I have spurts where I break a few things. All part of racing off road. A whole lot cheaper than the real offroad trucks.LOL. Do you have the Aluminum rear pivot block? If you dont that will be your next weakest link. The rear A arms will hold up to the walls and pipes but the plastic and graphite will tend to snap at the pivot pins when adding the Aluminum hubs. Now if you are a perfect driver, disregaurd my last quote. Good racing

Cave - Yep, I have also ordered a rear pivot block....I hope they all get delivered prior to this weekend so i can get it built and run it a bit.

[Got Speed]

cave- Oh ok, hopefully I'll see you out there next saturday. I also use the cap head screws. They seem to work pretty good. I havn't stripped anything yet.

purplerides- It is supposed to be because of some broken pipeline. IMO it is just a scame. Because you know the oil companys would do anything to not loose a buck. Plus it's been almost a week since it broke and gas prices are still going up and it hasn't been fixed yet. :rolleyes:

[cave]

purplerides I too driva a Tahoe and I got a 35 gallon fuel tank. It cost me 90 dollars to fill up on monday. I say mile long gas lines. Thats Cars waiting in lines at the few gas stations that had gas. 3 bucks a gallon. Heck we pay more for gas here . We get burn all the time. I would gladly pay 1.54 a gal. you are very lucky.

Racin Rev I live in Mesa, Arizona. Maricopa is the county. Its the only county in Arizona that gasoline dry. The rest of the state is fine. We are fed fuel through a pipe line. 1st it had a fuel leak in Tucson. Thats 100 miles South of Phoenix. Then a truck in California had an accident on the pipe line that cause the FEDS to close it down again. They say we may not have gas for a couple of weeks. THIS IS BS. I seen signs that say 4.35 a gallon. Makes me think of Ill things to do to the station owners. So now my water pump leaks and I have a 1/2 tank of gas. Heads are gunna roll. We got a lezbo looking governer and I think she is on her way out now. I hope.

See how lucky you R

JUST A QUESTION FOR all you out there who drive and buy gas.
How you pay for a gallon and where do you live

sorry to bring this up here. It takes a 1/4 tank of gas 1 way to go racing. Thats 45 bucks. plus race cost and food. eeeerrrrrr

cave

[Racin Rev]

in the peoples republic of wisconsin we are currently paying about 1.65 per. most of that is taxes. fortunatly i have a swift and my wife has a metro at 43mpg and 48mpg respectively. when we are forced to buy a mini van we will not fare so well, but we will keep the little cars any way.

[cave]

Racin Rev Sounds like we here in AZ are not the only people getting soaked.
AZ used to be more American friendly. We have alot of people who have moved here from more liberal tree hugging states. They move here for the low crime and good family living. Then when they vote they vote for the same things they had in thier crime riddin states they just left, like gun control. Then they cant understand why crime has rissen since they moved here.

sorry again, Im emotional right now. Just pass over this post. lol.

cave
I still can carry my Glock in my truck tho. When that changes There will be a BIG PROBLEM HERE!!!!!!!!

[Got Speed]

purplerides- LOL it gets better. Like cave said there are stations now chargin $4+.

cave- I bet you the people that change the prices on the signs are pretty careful not to go changing the signs when anyone is filling up. :p They would probably be on the 10 o-clock news. You probably already know but there are some citys(I think new york city is one of them) who have made it illegal to have a gun in the city. Pretty sick IMO.

Sorry this isn't XXX-NT related.

Does anybody have any information about the Nitro Challenge or the Silverstate Nitro Challenge next year? I'd really like to go to both and want as much info as possible. If I remember right the Nitro Challenge was in January last year. Are there entry forums yet? How much did it cost last year.....? I know the Silverstate is almost a year but if anybody has anything to tell me about how it was this year please LMK. Thanks

[ross]

Originally posted by Got Speed

Sorry this isn't XXX-NT related.


Most of this page isnt XXX-NT related.

[Shady]

most of thie stuff isn't xxxnt releated but we all drive NT's soo who cares :)

I pay 1.24 a gallon here in Georgia

[isa268]

i like the bumper sticker i saw the other day.

"gun control is useing both hands"

anyone see monster garage where jessie brings out the dessert eagle. thats a nice gun. you know i dont care that it only has 6 shots just line everyone up that you want shot and get them all with one shot. and if all eles fails you could probably break there leg with the gun, its a beast.

matt

[Casper]

Got Speed-- I am not sure about the nitro challange for next year but it was last Jan and I think it was $50 (t-shirt included and if you did it right a view of the DIRT GIRLS for an entire weekend! :-))

The Reedy truck race is comming up soon at HRH (Sept 26-28). Gas entry is $30.

[cave]

i like the bumper sticker i saw the other day.
isa268
I practice that bumpersticker slogan.:D My Glock is a lot lighter than my Smith & Wessen. The Desert Eagle is one heavy pistle. Just the sight of that 50 cal. muzzel would make ya dropppp. I like the Galil. OOps. I forgot this was the NT forum. I'm sorry. Yea right.

GS Your not going Tomarro night huh? I got this side job making some stuff for CBS Sports. You'll see it in action from the Western Confrence Championship (NBA). Well you cant acually see my work but its there. lol.
I need that tuning you did for my nitro :D . My Mugen was so fast that night. I wish I could go but I got bills to pay.

Casper where is HRH?
later

cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-Good to see you again buddy. You were away when I was back, and I was away when you were back. I just got up to college today.
I prefer the PPK myself. Small, light, but unfortunatly not too accurate. Personally I'm more of an AK guy myself :D

[Casper]

cave-- HRH= Hot Rod Hobbies in Saugus California near Magic Mountain.

www.hotrodhobbies.com

[Got Speed]

isa268- LOL. I havn't seen that one. :p

Casper- Do you know if it was a Fri-Sunday or Sat-Mon race? How many qualifiers were there and how long were they? Did the $50 cover the race and T-Shirt only or was something else included? Where is HRH? Thanks :)

cave- Which Glock is it? I've used a Glock 9mm and a 45. Both were really nice in comparison with some other brands I've used.
I wish I were going tommorow night. I will be there next week if I can help it though. I rode the bus to SRS yesterday and showed scott those track designs.

[Casper]

It was a Fri-Sun race. Fri was 10th and monster truck qualifying (4 rounds 7min) and Sat was 1/8th qualifying again 4 rounds and all the mains were on Sun. There was nothing else included with the $50. Just a really fun weekend on an AWSOME track. T-shirt and drooling over dirt girls!

Hot Rod Hobbies is in Saugus California next to 6 flags magic mountain. It is just north of LA.

[Got Speed]

Casper- Oh, I know of HRH. I just didn't know HRH was Hot Rod Hobbies. lol. I took a look at it last year when I was visiting tracks in So. Cal. It looks pretty nice. About the same size as the track cave and I run on. Thanks for the info. Are you going to be at the Nitro Challenge this year? If so, maybe I'll see you?

[cave]

Casper was HRH formerly known as Fast Lanes? I lived in Venice California for 25 years and back in the mid 80's the was a place near magic mountain that was indoors and in an industrial park. I wonder if thats the same place.

Mike Wz I got 1. AK 47. klac klac klac klac klac. Distinctive

Got Speed its a Glock 17. The Smith is a 5904, both 9mm. Also a Berretta 380 or 9mm Kurtz. Beats a PPK hands down for accuacy. I fired them both. I got a Dillon reloader that used to be used all the time till Vladamirr Clinton started Quadrupling the taxes on primers and powder. Punish the good guys laws. GS I didnt know you were an Zonie thru to the bone:D

I worked all day Saturday then raced. Good thing it rained cause I was beat. I got to race the 1st qulifyer. I landed hard off the quads. broke the rt frnt A arm. That arm has lasted thru so many cartwheels that It was do.lol. Tony was so fast. Francois was there too. The rain and lighting closed the track down. We get a 7 dollar credit for next weeks race.

Casper If you can, ask some of the OG racers if HRH was called Fast Lanes at one time. THANKS

cave

[MikeWz]

The only reason I like the PPK is because of it's simplicity and compact size. It can easily be carried around anywhere and not get in the way. The best all around is is definatly the USP45. Damn it's accurate and it packs one hell of a punch too. Not quite as small though.

[Casper]

Hot Rod's was called fast lane at one time but it was never indoor.?!?!?!? They used to have a big dirt oval and an offroad track when it was Fastlane many years ago. The since moved the offroad track to the old dirt oval area and paved the old offroad track for sedan racing. I know all this since I have raced at the track for over 8 years on an off. I usually only go there for big races since it is a little far for me to drive with there being closer tracks to my home. Hot Rods puts on a great show. If you have never attended a big race there you should try and make the effort. They run a really smooth weekend event and the competition is tough. I am hoping to make it to the Nitro Challenge again. That was the first real gas race I attended and I finished 5th in the main after having a glow plug go bad in warm ups and starting a lap down because of it. It was a great Race. Hemet makes some wicked layouts!

[Got Speed]

cave- Nice. Where do you shoot them? Zonie? I'm dying to go to the track again. lol If nothing stops me I'll be out there this saturday. Is frenchy planning on coming on saturdays more often or is his wife still not letting him go? :p See you then.

Casper- 5th in the A-Main!? When I was in So. Cal. last year I went to The Dirt hoping and saw some of the Saturday Series. The track was awesome. Their layouts look tough but very fun. Hopefullly I'll see you out there this January.

[Casper]

Yes 5th in the A-main (sportsman not expert but there were 60 or so entries) and that was from starting a lap down! :-) The layouts are challanging but 10th scale friendly at the same time. They do a really good job with the track out there. I just wish it wasn't so far away. I race at Lake Perris Raceway most of the time since it is about 20 min closer to my house and races on Sundays. www.lprp.com

[offroadcrazy01]

are you going to race the reedy race in sept.I race at hot's rod's some times in the sports-man gas truck going to race this tueday

[Casper]

Yeah I am going to race the Reedy. I am going to run Gas truck and stock truck.

[offroadcrazy01]

Me to I will be in the stock class too.Good luck what does your truck look like.Right now the dirt is hard packed and dry to the bone. I'm going to run my mfxxx-t too hope I do well with one of my trucks I hope they keep the layout they have right now I have raced on it 3 times

[Casper]

I am sure they will change the track layout before a big race. They normally change it 1-2 weeks before the race. My truck is white with a blue fade through the middle with silver nike swooshes on the side. I used to have some pics on-line but I just changed ISP's and lost my web site. If I get a pic on-line again I will post my car. Here is a picture of me from the HRH web site though. I am the one on the right.

http://www.hotrodhobbies.com/imagessidewinder2003/10trk.jpg

[morfracerX]

casper it's me offroad on my bro name this is the body I will be running on my xxx-t 3142973093 run the number on e-bay and you will see my body.I was at that race that was mike's first big win which guy are you on the left or right ,your right they will change the track :eek:

[Casper]

I am the one on the right. Nice paint job. I will hopfully have a new gas truck body by the Reedy race. My current body is a little on the beat up side. I have been racing gas with it for almost 10 months now though so it has served its useful life! :-)

[2Fast2Fury]

Hi guys, I'm assembling my XXX-NT right now and I'm having huge problems getting the diff together. Anyone else experience any problems trying to get the pins into the brake shaft? I'm afraid of using pliers to push the pins in because I might scrape the brake shaft all up. It also seems like in the future, anytime I will want to mess with the center diff, I will have to take the brake shaft out and as a result , and take the pin back out of the break shaft. Seems like a major pain...anyone know of any better ways to do this? Maybe there is a better fitting pin that I don't know about? The ones that it says to use in the manual take extreme force to push into the brake shaft. thanks in advance for all your helpful replies!

[Casper]

Are you talking about pin number 78 in the attached picture?

If so you only need to put it on once. There is a slot in the tranny case that allows you to get it in an out when you service the tranny. These pins are difficult to get in but you want them to be tight so they do not fall out when spinning at 30K RPM+! I find the using slip jaw pliers makes getting pins in the easiest. Some channel locks work well also since you can get them to squeeze flat on on the pin like this | - | vs. \ - / which is what happens when you use needle nose pliers. Once the pin is in the hole I then use needle nose pliers to finish pushing the pin through. If you are careful you will not scratch up the shaft much but odds are good you will make a mark or two. Not a big deal. If you want to make a tool for this take easier look at this picture

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/images/stories/10.gif

bottom line is you just need to squeeze hard. You will need to do the same thing for the wheel pins in the rear axles.

Hope this helps some.

[Casper]

I found a pic of my gas truck so here is my paint scheme.

[2Fast2Fury]

Thanks for your reply Casper. That is exactly the same pin I was talking about. I didn't think it would fit throught the gearbox housing when finally in the breat shaft though because when I tried to match a pin to the notches in the gearbox, the pin was too long to fit through. Know what I mean?

[offroadcrazy01]

nice paint job good luck did you see my paint job it will be funny if we race together in the main

[ross]

Originally posted by 2Fast2Fury
Thanks for your reply Casper. That is exactly the same pin I was talking about. I didn't think it would fit throught the gearbox housing when finally in the breat shaft though because when I tried to match a pin to the notches in the gearbox, the pin was too long to fit through. Know what I mean?

You can get the diff out without taking the brakshaft out. Just take the topshaft out and then push the back shaft back and there should be just enough space to get the diff out.

[Casper]

offroad-- That would be pretty cool.

[Got Speed]

2Fast2Fury- Mine went in very hard too. You just have to push it in with the pliers really hard. Rarely will you need to take it out but if you do it isn't impossible. Like ross said you don't need to take the brake shaft out to get the diff out. What he said works just fine. As for getting the pin to slide through the slot. It will fit you need to get it perfectly centered and then it take a little bit of force but not too much to get it through.

cave- Hopefully I'll see you out there Saturday.

[dkj-M3]

http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=92350


:eek: :D :eek:

[Got Speed]

That is a joke right? LOL if it weren't that would be awesome. It looks just like a XXX-T so I don't think it is actually a micro. LOL

[Casper]

It is smaller. It looks like it has buggy tires on it. The body posts are way too big for it to just be a small picture. It would be fun to have one to play around with at the office! :D

[dkj-M3]

It's sitting next to a xxx-t, plus you can see the crystal near the window.

Usually if they are not doing something, they out right say they are not going to do it or that nothing is in the works. I asked Drake & he didn't say that. He only said, "hmmmmmm".

I hope it's true, Me & my friend have been wanting a mini staduim truck since we started racing. It will be a lot easier to make & maintain a backyard track with these mini's.

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by Casper
offroad-- That would be pretty cool.

http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_3154f410762dd9c66bf0bf0642f506fd/i-1.JPG

here is a photo of his xxxt, you might see him there with this body.

dont mind me

[Got Speed]

On the Micro XXX-T subject- You know how they can take a picture of something and put it in a blown up picture of something else. Like the picture with the truck tire, loc-tite, etc. I don't know it just seems like it would be very hard and not worth it to make a(from what you can tell) exact replica of a XXX-T in a smaller form. I don't think that is a 1/10 buggy tire. It looks too small since I have the same bottle of loc-tite and it is only 2 1/2" tall and the tire is pretty narrow too. I'm not saying it dosn't exist or trying to be overly critical I'm just saying I wouldn't get my hopes up too much. I remeber seeing the same thing done with the T-maxx. It was a T-Maxx about 1/3rd the size sitting next to a normal T-Maxx and it just ended up being an edited picture. It would be cool if it is real.

[Got Speed]

I see that is from an RCCA magazine now. Hmm. Maybe a little more trustworthy. It still might be a joke. My magazine is late in getting here. :( I would definatly want one if they did make one. I wouldn't like the crystal hanging out the side like that though.

[dkj-M3]

It's true they are making it. I have a friend that went to the Kyosho challenge & he saw it with the body off. I heard the crystal was mounted like that to change without taking the body off. Yes it is from the RCCA mag.

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- I guess I need to start saving some more money. :D

[MadForce121]

i found another picture of the mini xxx-t. oh, and let me introdice myself. i am new, i dont currently own a losi, though i am ordering it on monday. i have 7 rc's as of now, and i live in mass.

[offroadcrazy01]

Is any body running a sirio engine how well is it working out for you and how much nitro has your engine seen

[MikeWz]

I have a Sirio in my Reflex NT. It's a great engine with lots of power, however I wouldn't recommend it for off-road. It doesn't have the low-end punch need for an off-road vehicle.

[cave]

Got Speed As you know (if your were @SRS ) I wasnt there. I have a limited amount of time to complete my projects on the B unit. It leaves Sept. 4th to the western championship series. NBA Im Told. Im beat as i type. Im tring to wrap my end up so I can have Monday to rest. Hope you had good luck.

Casper Fastlane was an indoor track back in 1987 or earlier. I really cant remember the years that I raced there. I raced a Kyosho Optima 4 WD. Race prep made my Motors. That was years ago.
I remember the counter chick there. She didnt have a clue BUT she looked REAL GOOD:D

GS I cut my hair bro. lol. he he he he been a while since I was a short hair feller.

cave.

[ross]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
Is any body running a sirio engine how well is it working out for you and how much nitro has your engine seen

My mate runs one and he likes it alot, he always ran novarossi's before but he prefers the smoother power band on the sirio rather than the aggresive power on the novarossi's. The sirios are also very fuel efficient, you can quite easily do 7 1/2 min to 10 min on the the track.

If your after a new engine you should give the sirio some serious consideration!

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, I was there. I guess I'll see you on the 13th then? It was a fun night and I replaced everything that was getting worn out and I got a camber gauge. I set everything back up and the truck was running great. I loved it. I still didn't have a problem with my engine untill the first qualifier then it started doing what it was doing before. It kept that up the rest of the night. It was still a pretty fun night though. I'm going to have to put my CV-R back in untill I get this problem resolved. I'm going to seal it up with high temp RTV and if it dosn't work I'm sending it to picco. When the problem started it lost a lot of compression all at once too yet it wasn't overheating. I ran my T-maxx later which ran great though. I talked to scott about the track. He said they will be rebuilding it in Sept. He said he dosn't have an idea for the track yet. I'm going to draw the tracks back up on graph paper and give them to him this week. Tony and Francewa didn't make it out there last night. Sorry for the long post. I hope I'll see you on the 13th.

[Locus]

Ok, I finally got around to installing the (TK5071 - XXX One Degree Rear Hub) that I posted back on page #16, but they don't fit snug like the originals. Below is a pic to show the space between the hub and the rear arm. Any thoughts?

[Twist 2 Go]

Looks like you need to add shims both frt and back to take up the slack. You can also alter where to put the shims to change the wheelbase like on the gt and the mugen trucks

[dkj-M3]

yep, you need to add the little plastic spacers. they should have been mounted with the stock or plastic hubs too.

[CTurbo]

RTR models dont 'have shims. You need to get those on your LHS.

[dkj-M3]

the rtr should have them, they are pretty much identical trucks. they are black plastic spacers. it's item # 120 in the sport manual.

if you don't have the manual get it here:

http://www.teamlosi.com/exploded/index.htm

[RCRACER2471]

Since the new xxx-t has been brought up does anyone have any thoughts on the new Losi Monster truck? Im curious about it......

[Corey_25]

So what would be a great sirio for a xxxnt? Somthing with lots of power....also i dont race so it dosnt have to be legal or anything.....somthing that will last a while...?

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- All I've heard about it was that some Losi people were using some prototype monster truck. Maybe a Losi maybe not. I know if it is a Losi MT that would be very very bad. I would have to sell my T-Maxx. lol

Does anybody have any comments about Picco's Customer Service? I am going to send in my Picco engine to them. I have done everything I could think of to it and tried everybodys suggestions off here and had several people at my track try and help. Nothing seems to be working. It had almost new compression when I started having this problem and after several tanks(which acted like it had an air leak) it lost compression pretty quickly(low temps and plenty of smoke). It still has good compression(I can just turn it over with my finger now which I couldn't very easily before). After weeks of frustration I'm going to send it to them.

[Locus]

CTurbo and dkj-M3, thanks for the feedback. The RTR has the hub and spacers built as one piece. I've ordered some to install with the Trinity rear hubs. There are slight differences from the XXX-NT Kits (Regular & Drake) to the RTR I'm learning as I beef my truck up. Thanks for all the input and help.

[stefcold]

Mini XXX-T directly form Losi web site : http://www.teamlosi.com/kits/mini-T.htm

[Casper]

I want one of these! I hope them come out with oil filled shocks. I wonder if they will come out with a graphite plus version soon! LOL

[Shady]

the Matt Francis Mini T....lol


well guys i am off to the East Coast RC Pro Race in Dalton, be back on monday

[Casper]

I was thinking they could have a pro versin with a novak spy speedo and an orion elite modified motor! There may be something to this new truck!

[dkj-M3]

yep, i'll take 2. stock & mod

[Got Speed]

OOOOOHHH! I've got to have one. My keyboard is shorting out from drool.

cave- I saw that the state gas champs are October 25 and 26. I got an entry forum and am planning on going. Are you going to be there. I also saw posted on their door that they will be rebuilding the track on the 4th of Oct. Also(lol), it said they will be changing the saturday race time to 4pm on Oct. 11th.

[Casper]

Got-- That is the Az state champs right? What track is this being held at?

[dkj-M3]

Other things I've heard:
I have a friend that paints Drake's body & he had his mini-t body at the race last Sat. Gear Diff for now, no slipper clutch for now. Spring shocks with oil shocks available later.
Motor is proprietary as is the motor plate so it is isn't a common size. The truck is very fast on 6 cells an I hear it is durable. Probably will not be offered in kit form and it has turnbuckles for the steering. Companies are working on replacement motor plates for standard motors (Speed 300, etc.) Additional tire designs in the works, clear bodies available after release... etc.

[Got Speed]

Casper- On Losi's web site it says it comes with oil filled shocks. :) They look like a lot of fun but I don't know how it would compare to a 1/10 scale if you have the room to run it?

Anyway, I'm talking about the AZ state off-road champs. It is being held at Scottsdale RC Speedway(SRS). Are you thinking of going out there?

[Casper]

"But don’t let the price, simplified construction, or size fool you, this screaming little race truck has many of the features found on its larger brothers. The transmission is equipped with a heavy-duty gear diff and precision ball bearings for the ultimate in power and performance. There’s extended travel long arm suspension with friction shocks, disc type racing wheels and hi-traction rubber tires."

This is direct from Losi's web site. I think the oil shocks will be optional hop ups. Like I said before we need to get the MF edition kit! :-)

[Canucksk]

Looking to buy a new .12 engine for my XXX-NT.

Any recommendations ? I want to buy one with a pull start.

Will this .12 dynamite fit ? Is the shaft too short ?



http://www.rcstop.com/temp/dynamite.jpg

[Casper]

Got-- I would love to come out there for the AZ gas champs but I am way out of money. I was just curious who was holding that race. I would like to try gas on the track. I have only run that Catus over there at SRS. We will have to see about next year.

[Got Speed]

Casper- Dang, I'm sorry. I could've sworn it said oil shocks. I wonder if 1/12 scale pan car shocks would fit? Like how the VCS shock fits on the micro RS4. I bet this will be a big thing. Losi must have been looking on these forums. lol So you race electric but you bash your NT?

Does anyone know where the cheapest place is to get an MT-12? I'm really trying hard to get some money up before our state champs to get a race legal, yet powerful engine.

[Casper]

No I only race both of them. It is that I have only been racing gas for about 9 months. I have only been to SRS once and it was for the 2001 cactus classic. I would have liked to run the AZ race but I am going to run the Reedy truck race at the end of this month and that will tap out my wallet more then I can really afford right now but since I missed the HRH Shootout this year (first time in 5 years) I vowed to make it to the Reedy truck race this year! I get to race Gas and electric at that race! :D As for the shocks I am not sure if the VCS shocks are long enough. The shocks on mini looks pretty long in the photos.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Canucksk
Looking to buy a new .12 engine for my XXX-NT.

Any recommendations ? I want to buy one with a pull start.

Will this .12 dynamite fit ? Is the shaft too short ?



http://www.rcstop.com/temp/dynamite.jpg

I wouldn't suggest the dynamite engine. It work fine from what I've seen and heard. But it is one of the least powerful engines out there with a fair price tag. For the price I would suggest something like the O.S. CV-R if you havn't had much engine expereince or something like the MT-12 if you know how to tune.

Oh ok, I see. I was talking to Scott(the owner/manager) the other day and I've been giving him some track designs I drew up. We are going to be rebuilding the track on the 4th before the State Champs. Hopefully he will use one of them or part of them.

[Canucksk]

Thank's "Got Speed" ! I will take your advice and migrate up to a brand new O.S. CV-R.

I'm looking at this O.S. CV-RX W/10ER Roatary carb

LINK (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA44&P=7)

Is it OK ? What the 10E carburator ? I see that often ? Should I bother with the pull start or just go the starter box route ?

Thank's :)

[cave]

Got Speed Work is real busy for me right now. I wont be there tonight. Whats the info for AZ state deal. Can I enter that race? Me being the hacker lol that I am. J/K for those who dont know me. E mail me with some info as I wont be visiting the track for a while. Tony Is in DC at a vitamine convention. GS get me some info on entry fees and all.
I may have to geta new body for that huh. Later

cave

[Got Speed]

Canucksk- The rotary version will give you more power in the mid throttle range whereas the slide carb will give you more low end and high end power range. I have the slide myself and like it. If you can a starter box is definatly the way to go for racing. For bashing it wouldn't hurt but isn't nearly as convenient as a pull start.

cave- When is Tony getting back? How much did you get your Mugen for. I want a powerful legal engine for this and the Nitro Challenge. Hopefully I can get up enough money for one before the State. Here is the info on the race:

Date: October 25th and 26th (Saturday and Sunday).

Schedule: Qualifying begins at 10:00 am boh days. Mains will be run Sunday after qualifiying. The raffle and prizes will be held on Sunday.

Entry cost: $25 per class ($5 discount if paid by Oct. 4th)

Rules: Roar rules.

[Got Speed]

Sorry I forgot you said to email it to you so I emailed it too.

[RCRACER2471]

Hey guys my brake is starting to wear out. I dont really want to buy the stock one unless if I have to. So my question is that there any place that sells an after market brake for my truck?

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- Nobody makes an aftermarket brake that I am aware of. The stock one works fine if it is adjusted right. It takes some patience to get it adjusted right. As the brake wears you will have to readjust too.

[RCRACER2471]

Thats pretty much what im doing...I guess ill just have to get another stock one...Its not bad, I just want to try something new and different.....

[ross]

Just thought I would post these pics of my truck, they are not great quality but still.......

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/ad1.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/ad4.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/ad8.jpg

[Got Speed]

ross- What is wrong with the part of your rear suspension arms where the shock mounts? Are you using deans plugs for the battery?

[ross]

Originally posted by Got Speed
ross- What is wrong with the part of your rear suspension arms where the shock mounts? Are you using deans plugs for the battery?

Theres nothing wrong with them has far as I can see. I think your looking at my grass guards - over here in the UK we race on grass which gets wrapped round the driveshafts the grass guards prevent this, they are held on with the yellow cable ties.

Yep the deans plugs are on the battery.

[idorace]

Gents:

I plan on racing my NT at a local clay oval track. Almost all Associated. The guys say a big trick is to reduce the front caster by 5 or 10 degrees.

How would you do this on an NT?

[Canucksk]

Hey guys, anyone have any problems with chewed up spur gears ?

I destroyed my spur last weekend and I am puzzled ? Can it be small rocks or mybe too much slack.

Thank's :)

[Got Speed]

ross- Oh ok. It looked like there was only half of the part the shock mounts too there. Do you like the deans plugs better than the normal plugs?

idorace- When I had my GT I heard a lot of people changine the caster too. Some of them even went down 15 degrees! I've never even looked at changing the caster on the NT but I assume it is the same. Put in a different caster block. Look at www.horizonhobby.com to find them in different degrees.

Canucksk-
1- If you have all metal gears in your tranny and you diff was loose.

2- If your slipper was way too loose.

3- If your gear mesh was too loose.

4- If some a small rock got jammed in there. Usually they will break of fly out but they can ruin a spur.

5- This really weird problem happened to me but I didn't even notice it at first. My tranny case stripped all the holes on the bottom so if shifted around alot and caused the gear mesh to constantly change.

[Casper]

idorace-- You can modify the caster by putting shims between the front bulkhead and the top plate that holds the ball studs. Putting shims between the rear two holes will reduce caster putting shims between the front two screws will add caster. This is the easiest way of doing this I know of.

Canucksk-- Both of those things will cause a stripped gear. I would guess to say the motor moved. If the screws are not tight enough and you have a hard landing you can shift the motor and this can cause the spur to strip. Rocks tend to just break teeth but if the get in there right they can srtip spurs also.

[ross]

Got Speed,

Yes I like them alot so far, both the 12 guage wire and the plugs are much more durable than those ponsy little ones. Dont need a switch either.

Canucksk,

Everyone else as covered everything, if everything is set up right the stock spur gear should last ages, but if you still having problems look out for the new Losi Kevlar spur gears.

[Canucksk]

SPUR BLUES !

1- What would be the best way to check if the diffs are too loose.

2- How tight does the slipper need tobe ?

3- Does the gear mesh need to be fairly tight ? Like the thickess of a paper. Right now it is like mush losser.

Where can I buy a new Kevlar spur gear ?

Thank's :)

[Got Speed]

ross- I should try that. I hate using a tie wrap every time I put a new battery pack in.

Canucksk-

1- The diff won't cause it unless you bought all metal gears for the tranny.

2- You can start with the stock setting. Make sure your slipper slips before the diff though by holding one wheel and the spur gear in one hand while turning the other wheel. If the slipper plates turn your diff isn't too loose. If they don't turn but the wheel is then your diff is too loose or your slipper too tight. It should take a fair amount of torque to turn the slipper.

3- Put a peice of paper between the spur gear and clutch bell and then tighten down the engine mount screws(don't forget loc-tite). It shouldn't make the drive train bind but there should be less than .5 mm of slack.

Hope this helped.

[MikeWz]

CanuckSK-I would also recommend an MT-12 if you can get the money. However I'd recommend the Dynamite .12PD over the OS CV-R Anyday. I haven't found much of a power difference between the two, but the PD engine will last you about 9 gallons. The thing never dies

[Canucksk]

9 gallons on a SPD is great ! I have a SPD right now and was thinking of picking up a spare.

Maybe I should just rebuild it ? Is it easy to do ? What would I need for a rebuild on a .12 dynamite SPD ?

:)