Team Losi XXXNT forum v7.0

[dhauch]

Hey Guys,
I'm new to this forum, so hope I'm in the right spot.

My truck seems to pull to one side when you nail the gas.
I have diff adjusted right, as far as everything I've read.
Both tires do spin, but it just seems to pull harder to to the left.

My only guess is it has to be in the diff. I just rebuilt it, and seems to being working great other than this.
I've never had a lick of diff problems either, so I feel like I've been rebuilding and adjusting right .

Open for any suggestions?
Thanks!

[racer2]

Welcome to the site.

Well did you try to adjust the camber and toe-in. Try it and it because that might be the problem.:)

[dhauch]

Hey racer2 good idea, never thought of that.
I have the back tires sitting 90% to the ground.
I'll try some different settings.
Thanks!

[MikeWz]

Chances are the problem is the toe-in on your front tires. Check that before you worry too much about the back.

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by Canucksk
9 gallons on a SPD is great ! I have a SPD right now and was thinking of picking up a spare.

Maybe I should just rebuild it ? Is it easy to do ? What would I need for a rebuild on a .12 dynamite SPD ?

:)

All you need is a new piston and sleeve for the engine which would cost you around $50. It would require taking apart the engine. Its not hard to do but critical that you do it the correct way.....

[Canucksk]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
All you need is a new piston and sleeve for the engine which would cost you around $50. It would require taking apart the engine. Its not hard to do but critical that you do it the correct way.....

Do you know of any links that explain the installation of a new piston and sleeve. Seems easy but you have me worried about the "critical" thing.

Thank's

[Keemos]

Originally posted by Canucksk
Do you know of any links that explain the installation of a new piston and sleeve. Seems easy but you have me worried about the "critical" thing...

There is an article in RCNitro Mag... here the link (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_rebuild.asp)

Hope this helps.

[Got Speed]

Canucksk- Like RCRACER2471 said it really isn't dificult but it is easy to put something in backwards or womething like that. Instead of buying a new P/S you could send it to osrocket and then just buy a new con rod. He charges $20 + $5 shipping. I've sent in two engines to him and it worked great.

[Canucksk]

I guess the con rod uses often and is an item that is needed to be replaced on rebuilds ?

Thank's for the referal for the rebuild. :)

[Got Speed]

Canucksk- It is a good thing to replace the rod everytime you rebuild. If the rod dosn't have any slop in it then you could get away without replacing it if you wanted to. After 9 gallons I doubt that though.

[RCRACER2471]

Hey Guys, For those of you who dont know i have the original xnt. My diff could use a rebuild now. I know you have to replace the thrust bearings. What about the balls on the differential? Do those need to be replaced two? Im on my second rubuild. Im not sure if that actually matters. Also are the diff balls carbide? If theres anything else that i need for a rebuild that i didnt mention let me know....

Sorry for so many questions....

[ross]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey Guys, For those of you who dont know i have the original xnt. My diff could use a rebuild now. I know you have to replace the thrust bearings. What about the balls on the differential? Do those need to be replaced two? Im on my second rubuild. Im not sure if that actually matters. Also are the diff balls carbide? If theres anything else that i need for a rebuild that i didnt mention let me know....

Sorry for so many questions....

The carbide balls should be OK since its only 2 rebuilds old but you need a new thrust assembly, diff rings also if the notches on the outdrives and worn and extended then they will need replacing too.

[Saboteur]

Anyone know whats the stock shock oil used in the Sport NT? Is it 30wt or something?

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- Replace the thrust assembly, diff nut, and screw at least and you should replace the gear too. If you mean it needs rebuilt because it is starting to feel "notchy" or "grainy" then you should replace the rings and the balls too. If the outdrives are notched then you should buy new outdrives too. I usually buy a pack of diff nuts and the diff hardware pack every few months. I can just replace those and only have to take the wheels off and pop the two outside ball cups off. Sometimes I replace the diff gear at the same time though. When it starts feeling "grainy" or "notchy" for a quick fix you can just flip the rings or you could just buy new ones. Balls rarely need replaced. I have only replaced one set of them so far.

[RCRACER2471]

What about the beveled wahers and stuff for the monster diff? Do those need to replaced to?

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- They don't really need to be replaced IMO. What I do every several months is buy the thrust assembly and the diff hardware set or whatever they call it. They are both about $5 and the hardware set comes with the diff adjusting screw, seal, spring, nut, and I think some other little things. I just all the old stuff out of the outdrives and just put it all the new things without taking the tranny apart. Every other time I replace the diff gear and whatever else needs replaced.

[Canucksk]

Hey GOTSPEED, good idea on on the diff servicing without taking the tranny apart. I will try it.

[RCRACER2471]

Thanx GotSpeed!

I also would like to second Saboteur's question about the shock oil. What weight does it come stock because i need to change my suspension....

[dhauch]

I'm guessing your RTR's come with 30w oil.
The xxx-nt kits come with 30 w shock oil.

[Saboteur]

Cool. Thanx Dhauch. :)

[ross]

The Drake kits come with 40wt shock oil...so it says in the manual anyway. 40wt is way to heavy for me and am now running 20wt with red springs all round.

[Got Speed]

I'm not sure what the RTRs come with but I do think it is 30wt. The Drake I know comes with 40wt. I'd say start with 35. It is a good place to start. 35 front/rear.

[cave]

Got Speed I picked up a used M8 last night at SRS. There were some fast guys there. The guys who normally get to the A mains were in the B main. I bearly made the B main.
I need to learn how to drive with this M 8.

cave

[cave]

ross I was thinking of running that set up. Are you racing on hard packed dirt, loamy, real dirt or clay? Lots of ruts & woops or rough but flat. The track I race on is hard Packed concrete style desert dirt. HARD. Eats tires up fast type track. we got woops, tripples, quads, table top turns and 3 straitaways. Rough and fast type track.

ANYONE????????????/

hey Im about to race my Nitro on blue groove? tire set ups? I never raced on a dry track... Im told Losi on dry surface ( What kind ) Fronts and rears... Proline on wet.
What front tires and what rear tires should I run. I hear the buggies are going to run Losi H bars on rear & 8 rib silvers up front. INPUT please>>. SOS. Help... The state race is in October

cave

[Casper]

Hot Rod Hobbies is run on a hard track. Run Silver Tapers up front and Red tapers on the rear. The rears will wear fast. If you need more steering run 8 rows (silver) up front but they tend to be a little on the twitchy side. As for the setup run the Standard Drake "The Dirt" setup but run the #2 hole on the front camber link. This is the setup I used to get 3rd Qualifier at the Sidewinder. The truck was hooked up! If the track is cold I liked running silver taper pins up front and some TRC Sonic tires in the rear. Run bomb one or stock foam in the tires. I am going to try proline two stage in the rears this coming weekend for the Reedy truck race. I will let you know what I though of those.

[Got Speed]

cave- They are going to let it go blue groove!? I really hope not. I hate blue groove. Mostly because of tire wear and if you don't stay on the line it is almost impossible to drive.

[ross]

Originally posted by cave
ross I was thinking of running that set up. Are you racing on hard packed dirt, loamy, real dirt or clay? Lots of ruts & woops or rough but flat. The track I race on is hard Packed concrete style desert dirt. HARD. Eats tires up fast type track. we got woops, tripples, quads, table top turns and 3 straitaways. Rough and fast type track.

ANYONE????????????/

hey Im about to race my Nitro on blue groove? tire set ups? I never raced on a dry track... Im told Losi on dry surface ( What kind ) Fronts and rears... Proline on wet.
What front tires and what rear tires should I run. I hear the buggies are going to run Losi H bars on rear & 8 rib silvers up front. INPUT please>>. SOS. Help... The state race is in October

cave


cave,

No I race on dry and wet grass and sometimes astro turf. So far Ive only tried this set up on dusty dry grass and it seems to work very well. One thing to also note is that I swopped the shock pistons around to what the manual says (forgot what they were in the first place so i cant tell you which way :P but just do the opposite). Im also running the truck quite low, but unfortunatly i dont have a measurement, however there are pics of my truck a few pages back so youll be able to see the shocks and get an idea for youself.

Im not sure how well it will work on your type of track but its worth a try.

[cave]

Yes it will go blue GS.
Thanks Casper and Ross.
I too sit lower than normal and It works ok for my drivin style and the concrete, opps i mean hard pack dirt at SRS.
What are Losi H bars? (tires) I heard the fast guys talking about stocking up on them. are they for blue groove tracks?

GS 87 errrrrrrrrr. Ididnt have too many choices. If I get some more side suff i'll get the novack moduels. I would rather get crystals rite now. I need the rest.

Thanks ,

cave

[Casper]

I do not know anything about losi H bars. I know about BK bars but those are a buggy tire. The H bars may be a new tire they are working on. I will see what I can find out this weekend. I should see some if they are working on those at the Reedy race.

[Got Speed]

cave- Oh well. I was hoping they would just water it instead of letting it go blue groove. If you find out what tires everyone is going to be using LMK. I'll have to pick some up. I've got a nuber 79 channel too so it isn't a problem.

[Dirtwerx]

Just picked up a drake edition. Are there any helpful hints or tips on the assembly process that you guys could provide? I am running a MT12S motor with the included pipe. Servo's are a 94358 on steering and 94357 on throttle/brake.

What tends to break commonly? I am trying to get the truck prepared for a race this weekend, so I am on a bit of a time crunch. I am moving over from the 1/8th scale buggy world, so stadium trucks are a fairly new thing for me.

Thanks!

[MikeWz]

Just make sure you keep that diff tightened properly. If it's not, you'll go through Diff's like there's no tomorrow.

[Dirtwerx]

Is the proper diff setting to tighten it, then back it off 1/8th of a turn?

[Casper]

Use the golden taping screw for the holes. The graphite can be hard to get the counter sunk screws into the first time and you do not want to strip any of the screws! Other then that the truck goes together quite well. You should like it. You will need the rear exhaust header for the engine that you bought. Just wanted to make sure you knew that. The kit comes with the side exhaust header.

[ross]

Originally posted by Dirtwerx
Just picked up a drake edition. Are there any helpful hints or tips on the assembly process that you guys could provide? I am running a MT12S motor with the included pipe. Servo's are a 94358 on steering and 94357 on throttle/brake.

What tends to break commonly? I am trying to get the truck prepared for a race this weekend, so I am on a bit of a time crunch. I am moving over from the 1/8th scale buggy world, so stadium trucks are a fairly new thing for me.

Thanks!

If you can get your hands on one, replace the standard graphite rear pivot block with the Trinity aluminium one.

Has mentioned earlier the standard shock oil is quite heavy, you may want to replace it with some lighter oil around the 30wt mark would be a good starting point.

One other thing I remembered when building mine was to replace the standard metal manifold gasket with a standard fibre or cardboard one. You need the gasket to compress.

I also only run 10 washers in my diff not the 12 thats normally used and I place them in like this: ((((()))))

Casper also bought up some good points about screwing into graphite - its an absolute pain for first few times (literally, many people have had blisters on thier hands after building a drake :eek: ) and about your rear exhaust engine.

[Casper]

I like the alum front bulkhead also. I like it not becuase there is a problem with the stock one but the extra weight up front helps with keeping the wheelies to a minium.

[ross]

Originally posted by Casper
I like the alum front bulkhead also. I like it not becuase there is a problem with the stock one but the extra weight up front helps with keeping the wheelies to a minium.

Yeah I also put extra weight on the front of my truck in form of the battery pack. With the added advantage of keeping the wires away from the flying and spur gear.

[cave]

Aluminum front bulk head? where? how much? is it ok for ROAR rules?

Casper I may of heard wrong. It may have been BK bars. I was hoping for sumpthin for nitro power. Sounds like its gunna be a slippery day of racing.

Cool Got Speed. The crystals that came with the M8 had different #s. I 'll talk to Mayfield when I get a chance maybe he could help me out. Hope my motor holds up.:cool: Have you raced at SRS when it was dry? Its gunna be a pain marshaling, all that dust.

cave

[Casper]

I guess I might have said that wrong. An alum front pivot support. This the part that attaches the arms to the chassis. Trinity makes it for around $29. TK5009. Trinity calls it the front bulkhead and losi calls it the front pivot block. Yes this is roar legal since you still have the plastic front bumper.

[Dirtwerx]

The Drake comes with a side exhaust header? Man, I am glad you guys mentioned that. I just assumed that it would have included a rear-exhaust style header given the competition focus of the kit.

Do you guys have any recommendations on a header?

I appreciate all your advice...this is going to help me out a lot.

[ross]

Originally posted by Dirtwerx
The Drake comes with a side exhaust header? Man, I am glad you guys mentioned that. I just assumed that it would have included a rear-exhaust style header given the competition focus of the kit.

Do you guys have any recommendations on a header?

I appreciate all your advice...this is going to help me out a lot.

Losi, Mugen and Trinity all make one which do pretty much all the same job, however the anodizing on the Losi one will match your exhaust. :D

I THINK (dont quote me on it) most of the engines Adam Drake uses tends to be side exhaust engines, although he seems to change so many times I never know what hes using now!

[Dirtwerx]

...and for my last stupid newbie question of the day. What airfilter would I want to use on the MT12S. I've been using motorsavers in the past. What filter is appropriate for this motor? I'd prefer a dual stage.

[Casper]

Yeah Drake uses side exhaust MOST of the time. Motor savers work fine as does the kit filter (which is two stage) The drake rear exahaust header is nice and like ross said it matches the rest of the truck. There is really nothing special about it though. The others ross said work just the same.

[Got Speed]

Dirtwerx- You probably already know this but Don't Rush It. Take your time and it will turn out much better. You also probably know to use loc-tite on all metal to metal parts. Other than what everyone else said you shouldn't have any problems.

cave- Is there something wrong with your engine? Still enough compression and all? I've driven and marshaled blue groove. I hate it. It really isn't too dusty unless some has to go outside the line. I hate driving it though because most of your raceable tread is gone in one race and if you don't stay right on the line it is really slipery. You know how we prefer a wet track well with blue groove you have to worry about getting a swept track or a non-swept track. Probably a fair amount of the people will be running T-2000s, holeshots, or something similar. From what I've seen there hasn't been as much of a "common" tire when they let it go blue groove.

[crackerjack]

Hi,

I just got a personal transponder for my xxx nt. Where's a good place to mount it?

Thanks

[mds2004]

hi, Im getting a Triple X-NT RTR for my birthday. I have $500 total to spend and that includes the car. And if it matters, it is about $440 i can spend if the products include tax. I can buy the car for $285, starter kit with a quart of fuel for $45. So this leaves me with $110 to spend. So any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Racin Rev]

I read somewhere that Adam Drake is no longer hooking up the pressure fitting from his pipe to the tank. This is reported to give a more even power output as the engine spools up. Has anyone tried this yet? how does it work?

I would guess it would also prevent the engine from leaning out quite so bad when the tank gets low.

for those who are running this set up, what are you using to keep dirt out of the tank and still vent it?

[Casper]

The engine will not run this way. You need the pressure from the pipe to pressurize the fuel tank to get fuel to the engine. Yes the engine will pull fuel but I would imagine it would not run so well without this extra pressurization from the pipe.

[Got Speed]

mds2004- I'd say get the kit version maybe off of ebay inexpensivly and then get a nice engine and starter box. Then you will have some money left over to get a decent radio. I'd say:
$120 for XXX-NT kit, $130 for nice engine, $75 for starter box, $75 for radio. or something like that.

[ross]

Originally posted by crackerjack
Hi,

I just got a personal transponder for my xxx nt. Where's a good place to mount it?

Thanks

On top of the receiver box would probaly be the best place.

Dirt,

The standard two stage air filter wont fit the MT12 has the MT12 uses the bigger .21 carb opening.

[Locus]

Having a brain fart this am, does the XXXNT run a short or standard shaft engine?

[Dirtwerx]

What elbow will I need to use on the Motorsaver? I've got some either 60 or 90 degree elbows from my setup. Will either or these work, or do I need a straight coupler?

[Casper]

Locus-- It uses a standard shaft. As long as the short shaft is not tooo short you may be able to get the clutch nut on but it is best to have a standard shaft.

[ross]

Originally posted by Dirtwerx
What elbow will I need to use on the Motorsaver? I've got some either 60 or 90 degree elbows from my setup. Will either or these work, or do I need a straight coupler?

Use a 90* one and have the airfilter pointing the same way as the engine, which also means that if you cut the back panel of the bodyshell out you get a nice stream of air to the air filter.

[Shady]

Adam did some practice without running the pressure line and he said it ran fine once it was adjusted he just prefers to run it with the line

[Got Speed]

cave- Here is the 2003 ROAR rule book: http://www.roarracing.info/rules/pdfs/2003rules.pdf

[racer2]

cave- good luck, and don't forget a lot of batteries :D

GS- thanks for the rules:)

[Locus]

Originally posted by Locus
Having a brain fart this am, does the XXXNT run a short or standard shaft engine?

Cave - thanks for the answer. I'm talking with a guy who has a OS engine for sale, he thinks it is the standard shaft. He said it is apprpx 1/2 inch long....does this sound like the standard???

[cave]

Locus
I think you ment Casper.lol.
The standard shaft is alittle longer than that. I got one sitting right in front of me now. It looks like its total legnth is aproximatly .875 (7/8") .625 (5/8") of that is threaded . I think 1/2" is for a GT That would be a short shaft.

racer2
Does the M8 eatbatteries up real fast? How many hours have you or anyone out there had? Thanks for the advice. Ill take it...

GS
I was afraid of that. Oh well. Just to be there and partake in the mayhem will be worth it. Most of the Faster racers will be racing electric. So I may sill have a chance of the Z main. LOL.LOL.

Thank casper, Ross, racer2 and Got speed. anyone else who though of helping me out.lol.

cave

[Racin Rev]

casper,
apparently it works for drake to run without the pressure line. I would imagine that you could tune for it, after all, when you start the car there is no pressure and when it idles there is very little. the only problem i see is that one needs to vent the tank or the engine will starve from vacuum.

[cave]

GS or anyone
After reading some of the ROAR rules. I alittle confused. I like most of you drive a XXXnT. It has a hole in the windsheild to access the fule tanl refile cap. Is this Legal? I just finished painting my new Fury body. I cut out the front windsheild for that same access. Am I already breaking the rules????

cave

[Locus]

Originally posted by Locus
Cave - thanks for the answer. I'm talking with a guy who has a OS engine for sale, he thinks it is the standard shaft. He said it is apprpx 1/2 inch long....does this sound like the standard???

oops....my bad casper!

Cave - attached is a pic i got of the motor....look like a short?

[Got Speed]

cave- LOL. There should still be a pretty big turnout of nitro guys though too. I think it would still be a lot of fun too even if I did get in a main at the end of the alphabet. You are alowed to cut holes in the windows. Page 53 is most of the stuff you have to worry about. There is another page almost at the bottom with all the different dimensions and rules listed on a single page. I was wondering if you would like to go in with me and tony(if he wants to) to get several pairs of tires at once? Maybe we could get a discount if one of us bought 6 or 7 pairs of tires at once?

[cave]

Locus
That is definately a short or cut shaft. My Nephew baught 1 simalar to that and nothing but problems. The shaft that the clutch bell rides on kept loosening up. Its real tough to keep it tight. Some say it can be done. I myself havent seen it last more than a 5 minute heat. You should pick up extra bearings and spurgears if you already got it.

Got Speed I dont think they (SRS) will give a discount for tires before a big race as this is where they are going to profit. Nothing wrong with that. Everyone else who has a hobbie store knows this too. BUT if you know of a place that would give us a price break Let Me Know:D I would pick up 4 sets of rears I think tony may be on a budget cause he just bought this biggest freakin HDTV I'v ever seen. I have seen bigger but none clearer. Its like I was in the game... I'll try to talk him into it. Im glad about the window cause I cut it out then I though about it. eeeeeeeerrrrrrr Hey what about the Membership to ROAR. Is there a single event type deal. What is the cost? LMK GS

cave

[MikeWz]

Locus-Definatly a short shaft. Doesn't look like it was cut (which actually may help). Use a liberal amount of thred lock when you screw the piece for you clutchbell assembly on. That should hold it on there pretty good.

[Dirtwerx]

Do you guys have any tire recomendations for a very loose, slick track? The surface is dry and fairly packed with a fine silt on the surface. Many of the trucks are struggling to get traction. I used bowties on my Savage, which hooked up very well. Would bowties on the xxx yield similar results?

[Casper]

Depending on how deep the silt is determines if bowties or holeshots would work better. These tires should work well. Studs or t-bones should work well under this condition as well.

[racer2]

cave- i am not sure, what kind of batteries? if you are using alkalines they will not go for so long maybe an hour or so. the best thing is a nice Ni-MH battery pack. The last a lot longer and you can charge them. But bring some just in case for the transmitter too.:rolleyes: :)

[MikeWz]

Dirtwerx-I would definatly recommend the M2 compound bowties for that kind of surface. T-bones will work okay but go with the red compund than.

[Got Speed]

Cave- I was thinking more along the lines of an online store like tower hobbies of ebay. During the cactus the track did have one of their popular tread patterns marked down $5 for the race though. LMK if your intrested or not. The ROAR membership isn't required. I think it says something about level 3 and 4 events require it but I know that the state champs don't require it.

Dirtwerx- Go to www.teamlosi.com and look at Drake's rough slippery track setup.

[Locus]

Cave & Mike thanks for the feedback. I've decide not to purchase that engine above. Rather find a standard shaft OS engine. Take a peek at the OS .12CV below and let me know if this looks like the standard.

[Locus]

Picture #2

[cave]

Thats the right shaft Locus. Hey is this your first Nitro? why OS why not Picco or Rossi or say MUGEN? I got 6 gallons through my Mugen and I hope to get my seventh gallon of Trinity Platinum through it this coming October. Rear exaust, slide carb, Power. Yup. Good luck bro. Thats the right one:D

Got Speed I would rather get tires there. I dont trust the mail to get me tires or anything on time... Now if you could get Scott to give us a volume dicount, now your talking. Are you racing Saturday?

cave

[ross]

Locus,

Tower usually stocks the cranks for the CVR's, I had to get one to replace the short shaft in mine.

[cave]

Casper Are you racing nitro? Let me Know how your tires do this weekend. THX.:D
Ive got a lot of feed back from peps here. THX This dry stuf seems slippery heck its slippery on wet .lol.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Ok. I could talk to Scott about it. I kind of doubt he would but it's worth asking. Tony said he will buy some too. He told me he is going to the track today and will ask mayfield what kind of tires are best to run.

[MikeWz]

Locus- It's all about Mugen. No more needs to be said :D

[cave]

here we go again Mike.LOL. Hey Got Speed has one too. lolololol
Mugen that is.

cave

[cave]

Tony's going to ask Mayfield about the tires. All this depends on the track set up of course. I havnt seen the state set up. I heard its going to be more technical. I hope so Those long drag races down te streatch are fun but those spectaters are gunna be sorry lol.
double touch sorry, edit deal

Mike I do like those RB's with the Mugen cooling head and shim. They Have a longer stroke than the Mugen. Then again I can bearly handle this motor's power.

cave

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- LOL

cave- I don't really care for the current track. The last one we had was my favorite though. This one looks pretty fun. There are some tight places and open places in it. I don't have a scanner so I can't put up the hand drawn copy but I did it up with a little program I found from someone off these boards. Instead of drawing the jumps in this time scott said we can just add them in as we go.

[Got Speed]

cave(or anyone with a Mugen)- Which way do you have your fuel nipple pointing. I dread aligning them and mine is pointing right at the spur gear.

Thanks

[racer2]

Gotspeed- how are the mugens. I was thinking of getting one, alone with my XxX-NT.

[Locus]

Cave and MikeWz, thanks for the feedback. I've had my xxxnt rtr for a little over a year now. This is my first nitro car. Grew up racing electric Grasshoppers back in the good old days. I've gotten to the point where I feel very comfortable taking the truck apart and upgrading items. I'm now looking for a engine. The dynamite .15 has been nice, but like you said Cave "Power Please"!

I'm not a racer, but found out that there is a track one hour south of where I live and would like to give it a try one day. So now here's my question.....which engine (OS, Picco, Rossi, Mugen, Fantom)?? I'm looking for a good, dependible engine that is easily tuned, but has POWER! So I need you racers to help me with the knowledge and your expericene. If you feel it's too much to type here feel free to email me off line. (todd.french@earthlink.net)

Thanks, Locus

[cave]

Got Speed I have mine set like the RTR. If your looking at the truck from the top (front of the truck toward you) The nipple is at 1 o'clock. Nice layout Is that the one Scott is going to use.

racer2 They rip:D :D :D nuf sed

Locus OS is an easy to tune motor. If you can afford it get a Picco or Orion Wasp (Picco). Novarossi, Mugen even a Siro. All of the above are not the easiest to tune but once you have tune it you wont be sorry. All Nitros are a pain to tune. Methanol/Nitromethane/Caster = Pain & suferin. But We all here enjoy the Tinker factor. Its all about the racing w/ nitro. It wouldnt be fun if your setup worked perfect every day. OK may if it worked most days LOL. Dont skimp now Locus If you can afford it. Get one of the above motors. Most of the .12 rear exaust motors are awesome. If you really feel the need for speed get the slide carb with that .12 power house. for bashing you may want to stick with an OS. .15 They dont like heat at all. One tad over 270 and it could be the last day out on that motor. GOOd Luck

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- So you have a fuel line back around behind the engine? If you were looking at the engine from the front of it and above with the carb perpendicular to the engine the inlet would be at 10 right? Also, what air filter are you using. Scott said he was pretty sure that was the design he was going to use. Thanks

Locus- The Mugen would be a great choice as would a Picco, RB, Novarossi, or Collari. The Novarossi is very similar to the mugen but is significantly more money. My last engine was picco turbo 7 port. Untill it had a really weird problem that I and 6 or 7 other people can't figure it ran awesome. It was really fast and wasn't too hard to tune. You have to buy turbo plugs though and it isn't legal for racing if your track uses ROAR rules or if you plan to race a big race. An OS would be a good choice if you want a less expensive engine that still has good power and is very easy to tune. The TRs are pretty powerful up there with the others and if it is like OS's previous engines the easiest of all to tune.

[Got Speed]

cave- One more thing. I'm just curious how you have been breaking you engines in? I've using the "fast" method. lol Driving the car on the first tank. Running only slightly rich. Getting to full throttle by the 7th tank. etc. thanks :)

[cave]

As you Know BM I Got a two stroke Quad that I ride and there isnt much difference in breaking in the two. Ill tell you at the track. I get alot of fuel through all my motors. Its all in how you break in your motor.

If that is the track GS its is gunna be a fast track. Lots of speed. I hope they have a High bank like the other one. That helps on those big jumps. I'll e mail ya

The inlet nipple is pointing to the rear off to the right. I go up and over rather than around the left side. My fuel line was too short. Either way works well. Just point it to the rear and make sure it doesnt interfear with any moving parts. Stay away from the spur gear side.lol You know that .lol. When I replace the fuel line Ill go up and over again cause I like being able to pinch the fuel line to turn it off.

cave

[Locus]

Got Speed and Cave, I appreciate you guys posting back about the engines. It will come in handy and is nice to have some first hand knowledge people who race these engines. Need to ask one last favor before I start doing my research on the engines, could you drop the names without abbrevations and some websites that sell the specific engines? I've noticed that not all websites carry some of these engines. I would greatly appreciate it, I'm one of those people that like to read up once, twice, three times before making a decision.

Thanks, Locus

[Locus]

Got Speed and Cave, I appreciate you guys posting back about the engines. It will come in handy and is nice to have some first hand knowledge people who race these engines. Need to ask one last favor before I start doing my research on the engines, could you drop the names without abbrevations and some websites that sell the specific engines? I've noticed that not all websites carry some of these engines. I would greatly appreciate it, I'm one of those people that like to read up once, twice, three times before making a decision.

Thanks, Locus

[Got Speed]

Locus- I would look at ebay. I always do that. Usually you can always find bran-new engines on there alot cheaper. I just got my mugen for $145 shipped off there from tee racing. If you don't want to do that. www.acehardwarehobbies.com has Piccos and I think they have mugens. You could also try www.stormerhobbies.com the have some different engines too but their search feature isnt' very good. www.towerhobbies.com sells OS but not any others.

cave- I think they will have a berm. I really want one and mayfield has been saying he really wants one too. I think alot of people liked the last track so maybe they will put a berm in. They might even put that 2 level corner thing in I showed you.
I didn't know you used the old way. hmm. I've always done it the "new" way and had pretty good results. I was always told that letting it idle would cause it to wear prematurely because temps didn't get high enough. I know you have good luck with yours so maybe I'll try it that way this time.

[Dirtwerx]

There seems to be a lot of evidence that doing a "cold" breaking (idling) is actually worse for the motor than getting it up to temp. on the first tank.

I've switched to the new way with good results also. If you go over to rc-racing.com, most of the factory drivers are recommending getting the motor up to around 180--190 degrees straight out of the box.

[cave]

Got speed you did read the E mail rite. Idle? Who said that? Who typed that? Not me GS read my email again and see the temps too On the first go round I say to get it up to 240° ta 250° to seat all the inners correctly. Im no expert but I run hard and fast at SRS. I got 6.9 gallons through my Mugen and It still has great compression. Ill get 7 for sure. Im no guru. I do however get awesome run times on my Quads and dirtbikes. I'll get 100 gasllons of race gas through the Banshee. If you know 2 strokes then you know thats increadable. GS, read the e mail again I dont idle it for those 4 tanks!!! read the EMAIL!!!

Remember this. Factory guys get new motors more regular than most of us! Maybe every other race. I dont know this for a fact. But I do know if I were Factory sponcered It would be high on the list for frequent replacements

[Got Speed]

cave- I just read the email. At first I thought you were saying you were idling it. I see now. Sorry about that. I was wondering how you got 7 gallons of it by idling it. lol Alright. Then that is the same way I've been breaking my engines in. Thanks I was checking everything over before I start breakin it in today and found that the LSN was completely closed! I searched for the needle settings and found your post in the Nitro forum. hehe.

Dirtwerx- I just misread his email that's all.

[Dirtwerx]

That's true, but if there was some advantage to a cold break-in, I'd imagine they'd keep doing it. I guess its really a matter of personal preference. Everyone seems to have their own method of break-in, but its difficult to determine the pro's and con's of each method.

I did have one question on the clutch. Losi mentions roughing up the clutch shoes with 400 grit or finer sandpaper. Is this a good idea, or not? I run on a slick track, so I am not sure if I want more "bite" out of the hole.

[Got Speed]

Dirtwerx- Yeah. I just misunderstood his email. Some manufacturers do recomend a cold/idle break in. Probably because they are worried some people would just get it and go full throttle with it. I've seen that several times. Anyway. I think Losi is saying you can rough them up after running for a while because they get dirty and glazed. I take my clutch bell off and rough up the clutch shoes about every 2 or 3 races depending on if it needs it or not. If it is glossy or completely black it's best if you do it.

[MikeWz]

Locus-Sorry I've been out of the loop for a while. Bogged down with college work. As far as engines go;
-My personal Recomendation would be for the MT-12. It has the most bottom end I have personally seen in an engine and still manages to follow up with great top end. I can be a real pain to tune sometimes, therefore being your first real race engine you may want to stray way
-Fantom engines are awesome as well. They put out great power, I've found more than on OS. They are also just as reliable and easy to tune as os engines
-Os engines I find people make out to be more than they really are. They are reliable and easy to tune, but not so much more so than a Fantom.
-Picco, yeah, picco. It's just a name in my opinion

Cave-Lol yeah. GS was talking to me about the Mugen. I knew we'd break him one day :D

[Got Speed]

I tried breaking in my engine today. The first tank I couldn't get the thing past 170 degrees at 4 1/2 turns on the HSN. So I continued leaning it untill the temp was 200-210. It ran fine for that tank. When I went to restart it, it acted as if it were really lean. So I had to richen it a whole half a turn to get it to start! When it started I had to lean it again to keep the temp up. The temp averaged 206 and had a good amount of smoke coming from the pipe but it sounded to lean and choked when I hit the gas. It would continue doing that unless I richened it 1/4 turn! I ended up fooling with it for 4 tanks. I didn't want to ruin it so I stopped it and packed it up.

cave- Before the track is wattered if you arn't doing anything do you think you might be able to help me out since I'm not familiar with this engine?

[cave]

Got Speed not a problem I may be there alitle later as I work today. For now dont touch the mid range needle on the back of the carb!!!.

Yea Mike he finally "caved'" in lol. He is gunna love it. Only one problem. He CAN drive eeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrr Brandon in the A mains fo shurrrrrrr:D

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- "Yea Mike he finally "caved'" in lol. He is gunna love it. Only one problem. He CAN drive eeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrr Brandon in the A mains fo shurrrrrrr"

LOL

Yeea, I first noticed this carb is the same as the .21 carbs. I know this mid range needles were a pain with the .21s probably even worse with these. Anyway. I've got 4 tanks on it now. I'm not going to do any more untill I get to the track since I have never had this problem before. Since break-ins are picky. lol I thought an AM M8 was strange. I'd never heard of anything like that before.

[cave]

What time you getting there GS?

cave

[cave]

Got Speed
Now You really GOT SPEED LOL. The Mugen Hauls bro...
This M 8 has so many adjusment that I got to practice this coming week. its so responsive. I may need new servo for the throttle.
We have so many cool poeple ot Ar Scottsdale RC Speedway!!! Thanks to all you guys there!!!!! GS those people are so cool. The fast guys really went out of there way to help me out last night! Wish I could remember their names. Hope you all the same type of peps out where you race.

GS How do like the Mugen. Its Still has a long way to go till it reaches its full potential GS. Just wait. :D

cave

[MikeWz]

GS- Good luck with that engine. When it's done being broken in she's absolutely insane. As far as the mid needle goes, don't worry about that too much. It's really just like a low-speed needle...just not in the same spot. It acts the same way.

[Got Speed]

cave- Yep I love it. It's great. I also really like those TRC Traction rear tires. They worked great in both my dry qualifiers(I think better than the bowties). But in the wet main they were pretty slippery. I'm going to use them for dry qual/mains. I got them new for $12 wheels, tires, and foams. What were the people out there helping you with? The M8? I really hope to get one around Christmas time. I'll see if I can take a pic of draw something of what the new track looks like next week. How did you end up in the main? I couldn't believe tony jumped the wall there. I couldn't have been more than 2" from not hitting him and I just barely did hit him. Too bad he broke though. He said he will have to get me back for it next time. :p

MikeWz- Thanks. I don't think I'm going to mess with the mid-range since there isn't any need to and it can throw off the other settings.

[cave]

Hacker Opps I mean Got Speed. J/K GS .LOL. I didnt see you two tap . I had my hands full driving my truck with the brake draggin the whole race. After the race that one guy whos married to Purple lady saw me out practicing I cleared the tripple and he yelled to me you got way to much motor there. So he took my truck and radio and tinkered with it and said that my servo horn was to close to the carb I had to move it a 1/8 of a turn. Then I took it back out and I could drive so much better. I didnt clear the tripple but I did double itefortlessly and perfect!. I played with it today now I cost freely and when I break it hits nice. I had to replace the servo with the 101s. I hope it last till I can get a good one! Later

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- lol. It was really close. It didn't look like I would hit him. It must have been within 2". That guy you are talking about. He insists that any more power than a CV-R is too much for almost anyone. He said he bought a Mugen and has spent the last 3 months taking the power out of it. I guess he has an O.S. 10J carb on there now too. I don't know why he bought a Mugen then but he is a pretty nice guy.

[Got Speed]

cave- I saw you tried to send me a PM. For some reason it keeps saying my box full even though there arn't any messages in it.

[Locus]

Ok guys, I've been looking on ebay and found the following engines that you guys have recomended. All are NEW engines:

SIRIO.15 CC NITRO ENGINE
SIRIO S15TUPAF
THREADED CRANK
5 PORT
ABC PISTON AND SLEAVE
REAR EXAUST
ROTARY CARB
2.5 CC
1.7 HP
@ 39,500 RPM'S
$149.00

MUGEN MT12
REAR EXHUAST
STANDARD SHAFT
SLIDE CARB
BRAND NEW NEVER BEEN USED
$139.00

O.S. CV-R .15
Standard crank w/10e rotary carb
$100.00

Any thoughts? This is my first look this past weekend. I can keep looking for a while, I'm in no rush.

Thanks, Locus

[Casper]

Originally posted by cave
Casper Are you racing nitro? Let me Know how your tires do this weekend. THX.:D
Ive got a lot of feed back from peps here. THX This dry stuf seems slippery heck its slippery on wet .lol.

cave

Cave-- I ran red tapers on the rear and silver tapers on the front all weekend at the Reedy race. Tires worked good. I scuffed them in my stock truck runs and then ran them in gas truck. This worked well for the qualifiers. The silver tapers lasted all weekend and are still in good shape. A buddy of mine has a tire ride with panther. Those switches were hooking up really well and lasting a lot longer then the losi tires. They may be something you would want to look into for SRS. I hear they work well up there also. He was running Med-soft switches in the front and Soft switches in the rear. He was getting 3+ runs with his tires and they still looked like they were in good shape. 3 runs on a set of tapers and they were DONE! The tapers sure do work well though. As for the race I qualified a CQ but had engine problems in the first 2 qualifiers (needed a new p/s which i put in Fri night for Sat qualifying!) so I really only had two trys and getting good runs in. I bumped to the B with little effort and was going good int he B when my slipper started to go a little and I ended up eating up my fuel due to being on the throttle too much to make up for the slipper giving! I ran out of gas twice since I was using more fuel then expected and ended up 7th but had fun.

[kombat88]

Hey how's it goin everyone

I'm completely new to nitro rc..hell even electric for that matter and I have some questions.
I've been bidding on a XXXNT Sport (i'm in the army and stationed in hawaii...ebay is the only way to go for me to damn expensive pver here) and it looks like I'll snag up a complete truck for around 160 bucks...and I've been reading through the forums and havent heard mention of a Nitro Star engine...it comes with a .15 version.
I was wondering if it is a good enginge to race because there is a race over here coming up in november at a local track and I wnated to enter for nitro as well as electric.
Trust me I'm not looking to win just to have fun and learn some stuff but I don't wanna look like a total tool...:p
So if anyone could tell me anything about that engine or racing in general or setups ...and blah blah blah it would be greatly appreciated...thanks!

[TheLaxPlayer]

If the engine is the .15ss, then it is a pretty decent engine. (you can tell because it has a black cooling head)

It is is the .15Fe, then is is not so great. (will have a silver or purple cooling head)

I would check the track to see if they allow .15's, because some only allow .12 engines.

I have never raced, but take it easy and focus on the corners, and not seeing how fast you can go, as that generally ends in disaster.

[kombat88]

Heh thanks man..It has the purple head...but even if it isnt that great of an engine i still think it's a great deal if i get it for that much

[MikeWz]

Kombat- It's really not a great engine. It's an ABS construction, so it won't last you very long. If you'd like to get a good engine I'm sure you can find a Fantom engine on ebay. Go for the '03 Rear exhaust Rotary carb. If you can afford the MT-12(sorry cave, gotta do it :D ), than go for it. When you buy that it'll cost you in total about as much as a brand new rtr would. Great engine

[cave]

kombat88
welcome to xxxnt zone! Hey I had a SS in my drake. Fast. A bit hard to keep cool. Its made by Novarossi. It did run fast. The only thing I didnt like is the Idel adjusting screw. Its to dang close to the card elbow. real tough to get one on the filter kept falling off becaus eof that. But other than that I liked the motor.

GS no problem bro. I just wanted to know when you were getting there. lol. Done deal now. lol. See caspers post on tires ?:)

Casper, Pardon my I dont knows bro. What are "switches " are those a style of front or rear? Is panther the maker like Losi or proline? Sorry I dont know all the lingo yet. Tahnks for the up date! Awesome. I had the same deal happen to me on Saturday night. Plus I just tryied the M8 out and found that my servo horn was too close to the closed side of the carb I had the brake draggin all night. Burt up 2 spur gears. Two clutch bell bearings. one set MIP clutch shoes. Expencive night. I also picked up a set of crystals till I can upgrade to the Novak moduels. Get back with the clarifications casper. Thanks again. I think Panther are a brand. right?

cave

[cave]

MikeWz I see how you are. LOL. Hey Locus I Love that Mugen. Ask Got Speed how hard it it to tune. Its a piece of cake so long as you dont touch the mid range needle. After you get the basics down you can play with the Mid. I would suggest you Start it with a hot Ignighter. We had a hella va time trying to get GS Mugen running only to find out It was his Ignighter. LOL. He was so fast Saturday>>>>> Get a Mugen You wont be sorry. Sorry Mike Me too.lol.lol.lol. So many people have Mugen's now that Its no secret!


cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-You just can't hide a secret like that for too long. There are other engines out there that are man Nas_T too, but the Mugen is just my personal favorite. It all depends on how you like to run your truck, and what kind of track you race on. If you run on real dry loose dirt the MT is probably not the best choice. I just love the power from this bad boy :eek: :D

[Got Speed]

Locus- Well just to let you know claimed horsepower means just about nothing. In reality the only way to accurately measure it is with a standardized dyno which dosn't exist so far for RC engines. That is why it is nice to see RCN's dyno tests. Since they are all done on the same dyno with the same pipe and fuel. Out of those I would go with the Mugen for racing maybe the OS for bashing. The sirio is nice but I'm not sure if the .15 will fit the NT and it has more top end than bottom end.

kombat88- As everyone else has said. That engine isn't a very good engine but if it gets you through the race then that's the main thing that counts. If your a new driver a less powerful engine will be easier to drive but later on you will probably want more and you will have to get used to it all over.

cave- Oh ok. I'm going to have to email them about that PM deal. Panther is a brand. Those 8 ribs I showed you were panthers. Mayfield says alot of gas guys are going to be using losi 8 ribs. I asked about the panthers and he said he thought they had too much traction. I'll probably at least try them since it is always easy to take traction away and if I don't like them I'll use something else. The switches are a tread pattern too. Yea, that Mugen was a pretty simple to tune. The needle settings are alot broader than some of the last engines I've used too.

[kombat88]

heh i know this question is gonna get a lot of different responses, but what engine is a good value to pick up...I mean money aint that big of an issue...but I'd rather not spend too much..I seen a mugen mt 12s for 159.99 on ace hobbies
and I've seen some OS on sites for like 120 or so
So If anyone can gimmie some advice just lemme know

[kombat88]

oh yeah one other thing
do I have to change the gearing...like the gears themselves
that whole gearing thing seems confusing as hell..lol
plus i dont have the truck yet..but a soon as I hop out of bed at 2am to bid on the thing..the XXXNT is all MINE!!!!

wooohooo:p

[cave]

kombat88 If you can afford the Mugen get it. There are other places to pick up a Mugen mT 12 for around 150 or less so look around. I dont know what the overseas charge would be. Another motor I would recamend for racing is the RB.12. I dont know which model most of the racers use at SRS but those motors are insane fast. The Mugen Is My favorite. It cost alot less than the RB too. No matter what engine you choose you will have to adjust your drivin style so you might as well learn with a Race motor. Now if your just going to bash. Get a OS or Fantom higher end motor. The basic OS wont last on this truck. What about the radio? are you looking at a combo type deal? Good Luck,

cave

[MikeWz]

Definatly jump on that MT-12, and like cave said if you have no plans for racing a Fantom FR-12RC-R will do you just fine (Rotary Carb/Rear Exhaust). If you do opt for the MT-12, get the slide carb. Their rotaries seem to not hold up so well for some reason.

[Locus]

Alright, you guys have convienced me to buy the MUGEN MT12 REAR EXHUAST STANDARD SHAFT SLIDE CARB.

I'm currently running a side exhaust header with the Dynamite Mach .15, so I need to get a rear exhaust header for the engine.

Any suggestions? Below is a pic of a header/pipe combo I found:

Thanks, Locus

[MikeWz]

I personally run a Fantom dual chamber pipe and LOVE it. It definatly sounds insane, and I found it to be a bit quicker than the drake pipe. If you get the chrome finish it looks really good too. Then you just need to pick up a regular rear exhaust header from dynamite, Losi etc.

[kombat88]

cool..from what I've read on here the Mugen seems to be a good engine...I'll just actually wait til i get the truck then I'll order the engine. Ohh yeah I actually won the auction too..heh. I do plan on racing the xxxnt. Hopefully I'll get to in November when they Have a race over here. The truck comes with that one good radio that comes with the RTR sport. Dont remember the name of it off o fmy head. AS far as bashing goes, I have an Ultima ST EP that I'm goning to use for bashing. It's actually a fun little truck.

[Locus]

Originally posted by MikeWz
I personally run a Fantom dual chamber pipe and LOVE it. It definatly sounds insane, and I found it to be a bit quicker than the drake pipe. If you get the chrome finish it looks really good too. Then you just need to pick up a regular rear exhaust header from dynamite, Losi etc.

MikeWz - If I'm getting the MT12 do I have to get a rear header from Losi or Dynamite??

I was thinking that as long as I get a rear header for the new MT12 that fits?? Is this correct? Is the pic I provided correct?

Thanks for the feedback!
Locus

[Casper]

cave-- Yeah Panther is the company. You can check them out at http://www.panthertire.com/ . The switch is a tire that looks a lot like the taper pin. The rubber they use lasts longer though. They work real well on blue groove tracks and alright other places. There tires have won the past 2-3 open classes at hot rod hobbies. They are worth trying but use different foam in the tires then the stock stuff. Use either 2 stage or bomb 1 gray foam in them.

[TheLaxPlayer]

Not to be an alarmist, but that Mugen may be too much engine.

I have the .12 cv-r and it is not nearly as powerful as the Mugen. If I hit the gas all the way while going any less than about 20, if fishtales all ovet the place from the power.

I was just outside jumping a ramp, and it was very difficult because if I gave it any more than 1/2 throttle, the tires spun and spun, grass or pavement.

I am using Dirt Hawgs, which grip pretty much everything.

Also if it is a .15 nitro star with the purple head, it is probably the Fe, not the SS.

For the engine I would recommend the OS .12cv-rx, as it has PLENTY of power, and is only about $110. Very easy to tune also.

[kombat88]

heh guess I'll figureout what motor I have in it when it gets here...now all I have to do is survive the antcipation..heh

[kombat88]

wait i just had an idea...i'll just post a pic of the truck i'm getting =P

[Got Speed]

kombat88- In case you didn't know you will need a starter box and rear exhaust header. I wouldn't bother with keeping teh HPI engine if you are going to buy something else. Email this guy: tee@snappydsl.net He sold me a Big Head, Std. shaft, slide carb for $145 shipped. I suggest the Ofna Pink Starter box. It seems most nitro guys use it because it isn't much more than the 1/10 boxes but has alot more power and lasts alot longer.

Locus- In case you havn't bought your Mugen yet email the guy above in my post to kombat88. I got my engine only 6 days after I sent the money order out. I really like the Drake header. It is nice and compact plus the hard anodized finish is definatly a plus.

TheLaxPlayer- It could be that the tires just arn't hooking up where your are driving. The Mugen does have lots of power and if it really is too much of you would rather drive with less for whatever reason you could always stick a restrictor in untill you want something with a bit more power.

Casper- My track had some under the counter a while back for $8 a pair. I should have picked some up. I've tried their 8 ribs and they seem pretty good. A bit less forward traction on our normal track than directionals or edges but I think on blue groove they will do really well. I might try a pair of the switches.

cave- I'm not even going to bother with Trinity foams since I will only get a couple of runs on each set of tires. The stock foams take probably 10 runs or so before they start breaking down IMO.

[Casper]

The 10 row front tires tend to have too much steering on blue groove. For this reason we tend to run switches or taper pins up front. More then enough steering but the initial turn it is taken away which makes the truck MUCH easier to drive. Run a harder compound tire up front. It will last longer and take away a little more steering.

[MikeWz]

Locus-The drake or the dynamite header will work fine. Yes what you had in the picture is correct, however I wouldn't recommend that particular pipe for your car

[Locus]

Hell yeah! Just won my MT12 off Ebay...got it out the door with shipping for $138. Can't wait to get it in the truck. Only have to find me a rear header now. Any place I can find that Drake for a decent price?

Thanks for putting up with all my engine questions this past week, all your input from everyone for very informative and helpful.

Thanks, Locus

[MikeWz]

It doens't have to be a drake manifold, you can get any one meant for 1/10th off-road. They are a different size than on-road pipes (for the most part). What pipe are you going to be using?

[Locus]

I've got a couple in my box:

Losi RTR pipe that came with the truck
Team Associated tuned pipe
Trinity tuned pipe
Paris Racing tune pipe

All I really need is the rear manifold. Any suggestions of where the cheapest price?

[cave]

Thanks casper!!!

Hey Locus DO you have a starter box? Most race motors dont have a pull start. I used a bump starter for an airplane at first. I got tjhe Ofna pink box with the panel to start up my Drake? just wanted to ask the questions Locus.

TheLaxPlayer you can alway adjust the throttle so it opens 3/4 from idle. This will stop the fish in its track. You can always power down from a powerful engine . Its tougher to power up from a weak motor.

As for pipes, I like the drake for all around performance I got the Losi side exaust manifold and so far no problems. Im fast. Too fast so I took my own advice here. It really works to. I drove my truck at 50% and I had more control and stayed straighter. That usually turns a good place in the mains..

cave

[cave]

TheLaxPlayer you make a good point. I'de still buy a Mugen over the OS tho :D

cave

[kombat88]

hey got speed
this may sound dumb, but do you mean the starter box that is colored pink?

[kombat88]

hey got speed
this may sound dumb, but do you mean the starter box that is colored pink?

[cave]

kombat88 I do believe it is colored pink. Its the monster box. 1/8 scale starter box. I have one too. It starts up my truck in a milla moment.

cave

[Got Speed]

Locus- Do you have a track or hobby store nearby? If so, I'd go give them a call first. If not, there aren't many online stores that carry Losi parts because of horizon hobby. Look under auctions from k p rc or someone like that. They usually sell them pretty inexpensively.

kombat88- Yeah, I do mean the one that is colored pink and made by Ofna. I'm sorry I don't know the actual name.

Casper- Have you ever run or seen any one run the TRC Sonic or Magic tires on blue groove? I ran their Traction tire in soft compound and it worked really well when it was dry out at my track but it lost a lot of traction when it was wet. But I don't want to get these and then have a lot less traction than everyone else.

[Got Speed]

Here is the Magic.

[Got Speed]

Here is the Magic.

[Casper]

I ran the sonic tires like you have picutred at the sidewinder on a blue groove track. They worked really well in my opinion. I top qualified the first round with those tires at that race. I felt like the tire worked better when the track was cold vs when the temps outside went up. I did have some available at the Reedy race but I felt it was too hot to run them so I left them in my box and ran tapers. The have a lot of high speed side bite and pretty good traction all around. What I liked most about these tires is the pre trimmed foam! I ran some used TRC foam in my tapers for the Reedy race and REALLY like the foam for that track. The sonic tires are the only TRC tires I have tried.

[racer2]

i have used those tires too, that is all we run at our local track. they are good tires for hard packed dirt.

[Got Speed]

Great. Thanks. I'll probably pick up a pair or two of those and a pair or two of the tapers or T-2000s. I really liked having the precut foams too. IMO the ones that came with my traction and cutter tires was too "puffed out" but after I ran it for two times it seemed to go down flat how it should be. I really like their wheels too. I think they may be a bit heavier than stock but they are definatly stronger and don't bend like the losi wheels do.

Casper- How many runs could you get off a set of these?

[Casper]

I got two qualifiers per pair and they were pretty toast after that. Not great for longevity. I was getting two runs out of tapers!

[Got Speed]

They don't wear any faster than tapers then do they? Is the traction just as good with the sonics as the tapers?

Thanks

[Casper]

There is more stuff on the tire then a taper after 2 runs but the start loosing traction after two runs. I would say they have more traction then a taper but only when temps are lower then about 80 degrees. After that I think the tire gets too soft of the track conditions. This is what I noticed running them.

[racer2]

the t-2000's are good ones too.

[Got Speed]

Casper- How about the next hardest compound. That might help. I doubt it will be bellow 80 degrees. When it was hotter did you think they had less traction than the tapers or about the same. Sorry for all the questions. I've never bought any blue groove tires and don't want to do really bad because of the wrong tires(if it's my driving that's a little different, lol).

[Got Speed]

racer2- I was looking at the T-2000s too. It seems that most people prefer the tapers though so I think I'll go with them. Thanks

[MikeWz]

T-2000's are where it's at!!!:D

[Casper]

They worked fine on a hotter track but I felt I would have had more traction with tapers. I would stick with tapers or the panther switches if the track is hot and blue groove. Both will get you around the track just fine. If the track is dusty though the TRC tires would fair better as would a t-2000. The t-bone tire also works well on smooth hard surface with a little dust. IF they are blowing off the track though the tapers will be the way to go. As for harder compounds of the sonic tires. I have only tried the softest "A" compound. I have not even seen the "B" compound tires. I had to special order the TRC tires to my lhs just to try them. Noone stocks them around here.

[cave]

Well well I see we are talking tires. Cant wait to try them all. Hey GS did Tony email you about the RV for the state deal? Your invited to kick it wit the Low dows LOL.

[Got Speed]

Casper- Thanks alot for your help. They usually sweep the track every other race. :rolleyes:

MikeWz- I know I hate blue groove. Tire wear, you only have that little line you have to stay on, and I think it is just more fun on hard packed or loamy tracks.

cave- Oh ok thanks. He told me he was getting one and showed me a picture of yesterday. I might do that. I'll have to find out with my dad. If not, we are going to be there with our camper.

[Locus]

Ok, when looking at the Losi website I see the following:

A-9332 Drake Tuned Pipe (Hard Anodized)
A-9347 Rear Exhaust Manifold

I would like to maybe consider getting them both, but would like for them both to be hard anodized like the pic below:

Is there a kit # to get them together?

[Casper]

The drake pipe and the drake rear exhaust header are both hard anodized like your picutre. I believe losi only has the one rear exhaust manifold but I was not able to confirm the part number on there web site. I will keep looking though.

[Got Speed]

Locus- I don't think you can get them both together. If you get the drake header and pipe they are both hard anodized.

[Locus]

I was thinking the same thing. But the A-9347 Rear Exhaust Manifold does not say "Drake" or "Hard Anodized" and I want to make sure I order the correct part #.

[Casper]

I am about 99% sure losi only makes the one rear exhaust. I found the part number on stormers web site. It was the only rear exhaust header they had listed. Funny enough that part number is not recognized on losi's web site! :eek:

LOS9347 Losi, XXX-NT MANIFOLD SET for rear exhaust, non-pullstart engines

[MikeWz]

Yeah there is only one rear exhaust manifold that Losi makes. It's not technically a drake part though, it's just that drake runs a R/E Picco (unless he changed recently) so that's just what he uses

[Casper]

Drake usually runs side exhaust engines. It is rare for him to run rear exhaust. They made the manifold for the rest of us.

[dhauch]

Hey guys,
I would like to purchase a Mugen MT .12 also.
Anyone know off hand who has them in stock?

I did try the email address listed a few post ago of a guy that sold them, but no reply yet.
Also tried a few other places but no luck.
Thanks,
Dave Hauch

[Got Speed]

dhauch- Give the guy I posted a day or two. I emailed him and it was 2 day before I got a response but I got my engine right away. If not, then www.stormerhobbies.com should have them in stock.

[kombat88]

Well, I won the auction....wait i think i put that up already...eh..neways I won..woohoo!!!
Whats cool is as soon as I started bidding on that Losi my friend decided he wanted to bid on an RC10 GT RTR straight out of the box so at least I'll have someone to race with and hopefully smoke.
I'm still trying to figure out what engine to get and also what parts are a "must" to upgrade...not something that is just nice to have...if anyone catches my drift.

Thanks alot!

You guys have been hella helpful so far

[MikeWz]

Kombat-As for engine, go with the MT-12 if you're dead set on beating your friend. The GT and the Losi are pretty even when it comes to speed
As for upgrades, there are really no nessescary upgrades for it. An MT-12 and new pipe are always nice. The stock pipe does restrict you a bit. I'm personally a fan of the Carbon Fiber Chassis, but it's certainly not nessescary. The first thing you should probably get though is an aluminum rear pivot block. A number of people say it's easy to break, although I've never broken it myself. Good luck with your truck!

[Got Speed]

kombat88- The GT and the NT are very close in speed. The rear pivot block would definatly be a good thing to upgrade. I havn't had a big problem with it but I did buy one after I broke my second graphite pivot block. For me one thing that was necesary was to buy a package of Traxxas rod ends and two 4-40 bolts. I replaced the two inside rear ball cups with them and moved the mounting to the outside hole on the tower and inside hole on the axel carrier. The battery box isn't really weak but after too many hits it will break like any 1/10 truck battery boxs. Try this(I got this from cave): either get a short turbuckle and two ball cups/studs or the steering link and two ball studs. Then make a brace from the rear shock tower to the battery box. There really isn't anything necesary but the three things I mentioned should cut back on the wrenching and extend the running. hehe. Hope this helped. :)

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Why is everybody going blue groove. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOO.
That's not real off-road racing.

Amen Brotha

[cave]

GS you goin racing Saturday? I got to work till 3pm. I dont think Im gunna make it out in time to set up. They start at 2 right? I may show up to help for a bit But I think Im workin Sunday too.
I tripple the Trinity rear pivot block. Its value way out ways its cost!!! Just My opinion. That brace idea works too. My battery box was totally broke. It lasted a month longer. I think two of those braces would help it last 10 times longer. You would have to see me drive to appreciate my words here.lol. I am entertaining to watch...

cave

[kombat88]

Hey what site has those rear pivot blocks on it? I'm havin a hell of a time findin one.

[KevanB]

How much could I sell a used xxxnt for? It includes:

*XXXNT RTR chassis
*standard rtr servo
*JR/Futaba receiver
*trinity receiver pack
*OS .12 CVR
*JR XR2 AM 2 channel transmitter 75mhz
*Ofna Starter box 1/10, with electronic panel, 2 550 motors, and gel pack

thanks for the help

[Got Speed]

cave- I'm not going to race but I will be there to help with the track. I'll probably be there around 6.

[Got Speed]

cave- Do you have an old top to a battery box you don't need that you would sell to me? I only have my old one which is messed up to use now to do that brace with. If you have one and don't mind selling it to me LMK.

[cave]

GS I'll give it to ya. Dont know when Ill get off work today. I may swing by the track later. depends on how tired I am. I got alot of things to do around the house. Dont want my pool to turn green. The guy who eveveryone is emailing about the Mugen gets a few at a time so you have to get them when he has them. He does try to keep up with supply and demand. For the price that he offers them they go fast. he sells the big cooling head. If he doesnt get back to you soon its cause hes still trying to hook up. I believe he also owns a hobby shop so he has to be cool on the markdown. he could get in a bind if the supliers found out what he sells them for. everone has to make a buck ya know...

cave

[Got Speed]

Thanks. I'll should be out there around 6pm.

[OmegaTrac]

Hey guys,
I havent posted in the XXXNT board for a long time. But I heard that some of you are from the SoCal area. Well, I am from Riverside,CA. Corona/Norco to be exact. So where do you guys race?

[Racin Rev]

kombat88,

they can be had from trinity, though they are rather proud of them, or you can get them from dynamite which i think is horizon hobby, for considerably less.

[Got Speed]

OmegaTrac- Hey, glad to see you back again.

Racin Rev- Dynamite? I didn't think dynamite made anything for the XXX-NT. ????

[MikeWz]

Dynamite does make a few things for the XXX-NT. You can get the on Horizon Hobby, you can get one on Team Trinity, or you can also go RC Trix.

Hey does anybody have an extra battery box? My LHS doesn't carry Losi (Booooooooo) and I can't find an on-line shop that will do Mail Order. I busted mine the other day

[Casper]

Originally posted by OmegaTrac
Hey guys,
I havent posted in the XXXNT board for a long time. But I heard that some of you are from the SoCal area. Well, I am from Riverside,CA. Corona/Norco to be exact. So where do you guys race?

http://www.lprp.com
http://www.thedirtracing.com/
http://www.revrace.com/
http://www.extremerpmracing.com/

Are all good places to race you NT. I race at LPRP the most since it is the closest to my house. Actually Revelation is closer but I have not been out to check out that track yet. I do now a lot of guys that race out there an think the track is awsome for 10th scale racing.

[Got Speed]

cave- Are you going to be racing saturday? The track is going to be fun. Not quite like any of the other tracks we have had. If I remember right there is 2 rollers, 1 corner tabletop, 3 small doubles, 1 off-camber turn, 3 fingers, 2 fingers, tripple(big tabletop, single, single), and I'm not sure what the other two things are called. We had them in front of the straight on the last cactus track. They gradually sloped up and then dropped off about 6 inches. It's going to be intresting I think. One of the small doubles is directly in the first turn off the straight! Anyway, hopefully I'll see you saturday.

MikeWz- hmm. What do they make?

OmegaTrac - I don't know how far you live form the places Casper mentioned but I've been to The Dirt and Extreme RPM. The Dirt is an awesome track. It always has a challenging layout. Extreme RPM has really nice people, the pits are really nice, and the track is kept up well even though it is fairly small. I don't know how far it is for you to go to these either but some other ones that are pretty good are: KZ speedway(Huge track in Sun Valey. When I was there they said they were working on getting parts in for all kind of vehicles. They probably have parts now.), Hot Rod Hobbies(Well kept average sized track with a fair amount and variety of jumps/obstacles), Pegasus(The layout and condition were alright but it was really dusty when I was there. They have a great selection of parts for most RCs made.), Lake Perris(About the same size as Pegasus but I thought the track condition was nicer. They didn't stock many parts when I was there. In Lake Perris), and Pro Line(I don't know when they race. They are way out at the Ca/Az border. But they had a well kept track with a variety of jumps/obstacles to keep you busy. The track was pretty big too.)

[Xx_RICHARD_xX]

Holly crap I finally just got this big thread read. I got my NT I guess 2 weeks ago. I posted some in the nitro forum but cave directed me here. Wow what a wealth of info. Thanks you guys.

I love this truck BTW. I used to race a GT 3-4 years ago but I am LOSI all the way now. This truck is unreal. Kind of fragile with all the graphite parts but It handles great.

Thanks to all of you with the advice on the updated fuel tank. That solved alot of problems. I did have trouble the flywheel spinning off the last time I ran it. I disassembled the clutch and what-nots and put it all back together like it should be done. I hope that lasts. I guess that happens with a used unit. I went ahead and took apart the the trans and diff to clean it up. I need new diff parts but I have it working much better than it was. One thing I dont under stand is the beveled washers in the diff. I took out a few but I don't have a manual. I looked online and I saw no mention of any more than one beveled washer. You guys have wondering what to do now. I have not run the truck yet but the diff works like any other ball diff I have ever built so I don't really know what to do here. I do know that when I took it apart I only took out 5 total beveled washers. I only put one back in. From the online manual that was all it said to put in. Any help there would be great.

I am also uncear on the turnbuckles. What is the best thing to use. I do have problems with them comming off. Most in the rear camber link. The front camber in titannium and I have no problem there. I am using rpm cups. I was thinking of getting associated balls and cups but If I rear correctly you guys recommend using T-Maxx parts???? I think that would probably work better. my buddys T-Maxx is not bashed. It is ABUSED. His holds up well to the torture he puts it through.

I think the truck will be great after I fix all the headachs the previous owner had. I usually run at work. we have a great dirt lot right out back. I have made a real cool double jump and a few singles. If I had a rotor tiller I could do wonders. I can't wait to get it on a real track. I live in east TN. and we have 3 tracks local. I live 2 min from one of them. however it is the worst one.

Any way I have rambled alot now and thanks for wealth of info I got out of this thread. I have been racing a while so I'll help if I can.

Later...

[MikeWz]

GS- Well for starters, I'm pretty sure Dynamite makes the Mach, which would explain why it's so reliable. I know they also make a Rear Pivot Block, Heat sink Engine Mounts, Aluminum arms all around, aluminum fr pivot block, Aluminum towers, aluminum battery box, al fr and rear hubs, and aluminum steering arms. That about covers it :D .

[ross]

Originally posted by Xx_RICHARD_xX
Holly crap I finally just got this big thread read. I got my NT I guess 2 weeks ago. I posted some in the nitro forum but cave directed me here. Wow what a wealth of info. Thanks you guys.

I love this truck BTW. I used to race a GT 3-4 years ago but I am LOSI all the way now. This truck is unreal. Kind of fragile with all the graphite parts but It handles great.

Thanks to all of you with the advice on the updated fuel tank. That solved alot of problems. I did have trouble the flywheel spinning off the last time I ran it. I disassembled the clutch and what-nots and put it all back together like it should be done. I hope that lasts. I guess that happens with a used unit. I went ahead and took apart the the trans and diff to clean it up. I need new diff parts but I have it working much better than it was. One thing I dont under stand is the beveled washers in the diff. I took out a few but I don't have a manual. I looked online and I saw no mention of any more than one beveled washer. You guys have wondering what to do now. I have not run the truck yet but the diff works like any other ball diff I have ever built so I don't really know what to do here. I do know that when I took it apart I only took out 5 total beveled washers. I only put one back in. From the online manual that was all it said to put in. Any help there would be great.

I am also uncear on the turnbuckles. What is the best thing to use. I do have problems with them comming off. Most in the rear camber link. The front camber in titannium and I have no problem there. I am using rpm cups. I was thinking of getting associated balls and cups but If I rear correctly you guys recommend using T-Maxx parts???? I think that would probably work better. my buddys T-Maxx is not bashed. It is ABUSED. His holds up well to the torture he puts it through.

I think the truck will be great after I fix all the headachs the previous owner had. I usually run at work. we have a great dirt lot right out back. I have made a real cool double jump and a few singles. If I had a rotor tiller I could do wonders. I can't wait to get it on a real track. I live in east TN. and we have 3 tracks local. I live 2 min from one of them. however it is the worst one.

Any way I have rambled alot now and thanks for wealth of info I got out of this thread. I have been racing a while so I'll help if I can.

Later...

Hi, I also got my NT Drake about 2 months ago after racing a GT, yes the Losi is amazing, it not only handles better but is so much fun to drive!

I run my diff with 10 washers in (2 less than manual says) and at alternate ways so it looks like this: ((((()))))

Use Traxxas captured ball ends on the inner rear joints onto the shock tower.

[MikeWz]

Richard-I run the MIP balls and RPM cups and have never had a problem with them coming off. The MIP balls are larger than the standard ones so they stay on much better.

[cave]

Xx_RICHARD_xX welcome, I use the RPM ball cups. I use the black ones. They seem to stay tight longer. Ive seen both the traxxas captured ends break and the losi stock ones break and pop off. If you dont replace the ball cups before they were out they will pop off. Mine did. This part of the truck takes alot of abuse. If you bash your prolly gunna wear parts out much faster than if you race. (Unless you race thos 45 min. races). Its called preperation & maintenance.

GS did you ever make up that diff deal? I'll try to go Saturday if I dont have to work till 5pm. That track is awesome. I stopped by after work on Sunday. That track is gunna be so fun. I can wait to race on it. The T Maxx class is gunna be awesome to watch on that euro table on the west side. I'm goig to avoid that disaster corner as a marshall.lol. That tripple in front to the right is going to be challenging since you really can see your setup. :D
I like it Alot.

GS, I got that battery box from Dynamite. The Trinity rear pivot block just looks cooler cause its blue. They both work better than plastic or graphite. I got the trinity one cause thats what SRS had when I wanted it.

cave

[Got Speed]

Xx_RICHARD_xX- When I used washers I had half facing in and half facing out so they looked like this ((((())))). I run the spring now just because it is more convenient than having to deal with 10-12 washers all the time. IMO it works just the same. As for the ball cups. The RPM ball cups pop off alot easier than other ball cups. I tried the RPM ball cups on my GT and NT and on both they popped off way too easy for me. I run the Losi ball cups now. Most of the time they pop off but sometimes they break. It takes alot more to break or pop a Losi ball cup off than it would to pop an RPM. I would suggest getting a set of Traxxas rod ends and two 4-40 bolts that will reach through the shock tower and rod ends and put them on the rear shock tower. You will have to move the settings out on the shock tower and in on the axel carrier but IMO it holds up much better than the stock steel ball studs. I have never broken a rod end but I've broken several of the the ball cups off the other end. I would only recomend putting them on the shock tower or at least not more than one per turbuckle because if you have them on all your truck you are going to break bigger parts more often.

MikeWz- :eek: lol I didn't know they made anything at all. I didn't know MIP made larger ball studs either. When I got my ball cups I used the Losi ball studs. I only raced them half a night because it put me out of the first two qualifiers because they popped off. I had one pop off when I was just driving. I didn't even hit anything. Maybe I'll try them again with those MIP studs.


cave- Yeah, I typed the diff thing up. I really like the track layout too. It looks a lot better than the last one IMO. I'm not really a fan of small jumps but this looks like it will be fun since there are so many of them and there is still that tripple up front. I'd hate to pit a little south of the straightaway. You would end up with a T-Maxx in your lap with that double there. hehe. Do you know if they are going to let it go blue groove right away? I sure hope not. Anyway, hopefully I'll see you out there Saturday.

[Casper]

For ball cups/tie rods I have been using the Lunsford superduty tie rods for the XXXNTRTR. These are the stock length for the XXXNT. Lunsford also makes super duty tierods not for the RTR that are a little longer to use "short" ball ends like the traxxas. The super duty rods will take the losi RTR ball cups which are stronger then the losi ball cups but they stay on just as good. I have not had a RTR ball cup pop off unless I broke something (rear hub or arm) since I put them on. These things are WONDERFUL. The tie rods are a little pricey but they are so think I cannot imagine bending one but the ball ends are CHEAP. I run the losi titanium ball studs also with great luck.

[cave]

Yea the T max races are going to be spectater participation heats LOL. I heard there were 30 or so peps out there. That was nice of them. I dont know about the blue groove. I want to race on tuesday if tony can I will too. I still need to dial in my radio.

Casper, Ive broke those titanium ball studs on the rear shock tower. My luck.lol Some days if I didnt have bad luck I wouldnt have any luck.lol. I am alitle rough on my truck. Its my stress release. On my truck only . Im very nice to other drivers till they do a crappy job of marshalling NITRO!!:mad:

cave

[Casper]

I have broke the ti ball studs also but I have also bend screws and I even broke a trinity alum rear hub! Try hard enough and you can break anything! Have a 5 year old drive your car with out turning down the throttle and they will break EVERYTHING! LOL :eek:

[rhcsavage21]

which moter should i get???

i have a idea i just can't decide.

there the:
80053 Team Orion .12 OFF-ROAD - Rear exhaust, STD shaft, Rotary Carburator
RPM: 36,700 - HP: 1.40 Bore: 13.8 - Stroke: 14.0

or the:
F1010
FR12 '03 Rear Exhaust, Rotary Carb, Threaded Crank

[Got Speed]

cave- Tuesday? It will be really loose out there. I think more than usually even. I'm not sure if they will race it on tuesday. Probably but if so you won't be able to really tune to the track well. Do you know if tony will be out there saturday?

rhcsavage21- For racing or bashing? For racing I would go with the Wasp but if you arn't limited to only those the Mugen. The wasp is nice because it has a very flat power curve. Which basically translates into more even predictable power over a wider RPM range. The fantom is pretty good. IMHO I don't think it is a big deal. Race worthy but it isn't my first pick. That's JMO though.

Casper- So your just running the longer turbuckles? How did you bend the screws!? Were they hardened? I've broken lots of ball cups but never hurt my screws or rod ends.

[Casper]

No I am running the same length turnbuckles. (you need to get the RTR superduty buckles for them NOT to be longer) With the RTR superduty rods I can install the Losi RTR ball cups and this system has seemed to work really well for me. I bent a SS screw I was using with some captured ball ends. Hey if you can break ti tie rods and break alum rear pivot blocks (electric versions not gas ones) then bending screws is easy! :D

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by Got Speed
cave- Tuesday? It will be really loose out there. I think more than usually even. I'm not sure if they will race it on tuesday. Probably but if so you won't be able to really tune to the track well. Do you know if tony will be out there saturday?

rhcsavage21- For racing or bashing? For racing I would go with the Wasp but if you arn't limited to only those the Mugen. The wasp is nice because it has a very flat power curve. Which basically translates into more even predictable power over a wider RPM range. The fantom is pretty good. IMHO I don't think it is a big deal. Race worthy but it isn't my first pick. That's JMO though.

Casper- So your just running the longer turbuckles? How did you bend the screws!? Were they hardened? I've broken lots of ball cups but never hurt my screws or rod ends.

do you know what the rpm ranges are?

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
Thanks for the good info about the tracks. I am currently waiting for Revelation Raceway to get their wheelchair accessable drivers stand done and then I will start racing their.

I need some help with the diff. When the diff first wore out, I rebuilt it with all new parts. When I raced the new diff is broke within 5 minutes. I dont know what happened there. So anyway, I bought new parts to put the diff back together again. I need some advice to make sure I get it right. Any advice for me? After I get the diff built what do I need to do? Thanks.

[cave]

Got Speed I dont know if Tony is going racing. Im going to try. Depends on work. I need a full weekend to keep up the house.

Casper Im living proof of "You can break anything you try to" Every thing I own I break. Quads, Dirt Bike, Helicopter. OK not a hellicopter. but most all my big boy toys. Im am getting better on the driving side of my NT. I just have to calm down. I got 4 Titanium turn buckles that are eventually going back to Lundsford.

cave

[Saboteur]

Is there a proper setting to have it set at for running on grass/dirt? Still bashing my NT at the baseball field. Have a gallon of sidewinder fuel to test with the Mach .15. Also is an FM radio all that important to buy? My XR2 works very well with the Sport NT and it hardly glitches even when the glow ignitor touches the glow plug. Still few however say FM is better to buy. Should I really go for one or not?

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- Really the only accurate way to tell is if they are all measure on the same dyno. I don't think RCCA has dynoed the Fantom yet. The Wasp was rated at a very respectable 38K RPM. Keep in mind though that this was the slide carb rear exhuast version. Which I would suggest getting over the other models. It peaked at only .96 bhp but it had .9+ bhp for over 12K RPM so it has a pretty smooth power curve. Not the most powerful but definatly a nice engine. Look at the OS TR too. It peaks at a bit more power and keeps that power longer with an incredibly flat power curve.

OmegaTrac- I'll post my diff instructions I typed up a while back. Sorry they are so long. Hopefully I didn't write it up so it is more confusing than necsesary.

I'll type my whole diff instructions so I don't leave anything out. I'll make this as short as possible though.

The number one most important thing is to make sure your diff does NOT slip before the slipper. Even if it slips a little it is too loose. I have seen people go overboard both ways. Too loose means a melted diff. Too tight means a bad performing diff or possibly a stripped diff nut- which if you don't notice it is stripped will allow the diff to loosen resulting in a melted diff. When rebuilding your diff always put a new thrust assembly and diff nut in. If those two things become too worn they will cause the diff to loosen itself (which if not caught will cause a ruined diff). I go through a check between every race with my car to make sure everything is in order and one of those things that I check is the diff. I check it to make sure nothing has happened to it. A diff won't loosen itself unless you neglect to rebuild it for a long time past it being due. This is not a problem with Losi diffs it will happen with other ball diffs too. When you start to screw the diff adjusting bolt back in stop every turn or so and work the diff back and forth several times to make sure everything seats properly. Once you can start feeling the bolt get tighter stop and hold both outdrives with allen wrenchs and try to turn the diff gear with your hand. It should turn pretty hard if it dosn't tighten it a little more. The bolt should never turn really hard(you should feel it getting harder but not too hard) if it does you are either cross threading the nut or are overtightenging the diff(the only exception would be if you are using a screwdriver with a small handle). Once it is fairly hard to turn the diff gear by hand with the outdrives locked then put it back in the truck. Now hear is where 90% of the people with diff problems go wrong, the adjusment of the slipper and diff.
Diff and slipper adjustment-
Put you slipper setting to the stock setting. Hold your left rear wheel and the spur gear in one hand while turning the right wheel forward. If you diff is tight enough your slipper plates will turn and your diff will not slip or "chirp" at all. You shouldn't be able to feel it slipping even a little even if you give the wheel an easy jerk forward. If the diff does slip tighten it 1/16-1/32 turn increments according to how much it slipped untill it no longer slips. Right at the point where it dosn't slip any more tighten it 1/16th of a turn. If the diff dosn't slip when you put it back in the truck then loosen the diff about 1/24th turn at a time just untill you can barely feel the diff slip. Then tighten it 1/16th of a turn.
Now work the diff back and forth by turning one wheel forward and another backward at the same time or by holding the spur gear from moving and turning one wheel back and forth. Do this for about 10 seconds. If you can feel the diff start to loosen you didn't replace the the thrust assembly and/or nut, didn't put it back together right, or you stripped the diff nut. When you work the diff back and forth don't be afraid if it is a little "crunchy" or "gritty" feeling. That is normal untill the diff is broken in which will take a couple of runs on it. You can run your diff now without breaking it in and it won't ruin it if adjusted right but I suggest a break-in mainly so you can tell if your diff isn't adjusted right before it is too late. There are several ways you can do it. You can start your car and hold one wheel for a second as you gently tap the throttle then hold the other wheel and gently tap the throttle holding each wheel for about a second. Do this about 10 times then check to make sure everything is still adjusted right. You can use a drill. Put one axel in the drill and hold the spur gear while pulling the trigger on the drill for about 2 seconds. Reverse the drill and do the same thing for another 2 seconds. Do this about 10 times or so then check to make sure everything is adjusted. Now you are ready to hit the track. Recheck to make sure you diff is adjusted right and loosen up the slipper some. Now get out there and run a tank of fuel without punching the throttle too hard. After about a tank or so bring it in and check the diff settings(If at any time you hear the engine rev higher than it should be for how fast the truck is going let off the throttle immedeatly and go check to see if the diff is adjusted right). Now you should have a fairly smooth diff(it will get smoother the next few tanks) with no problems. Now you can get out there and run again like normal. You should easily be able to run your diff for several gallons before rebuilding anything. If you have a powerful engine you will probably need to rebuild your diff a little more often than a less powerful engine. Every time you adjust your slipper you should recheck the diff to make sure it is adjusted correctly. When you go to check your car over before you run it be sure to check the diff as well. I only replace my diff rings, balls, and gear when the diff starts feeling "notchy" or gets really "gritty" feeling but I replace my thrust assembly, diff nut, and diff bolt every 2 gallons or so and have a very reliable diff. If I am only replacing the thrust, nut, and bolt I don't even have to take the tranny out. I just replace them through the outdrives. All this may sound hard and like bad engineering but it works very well and isn't very hard once you do it a few times. Follow the directions and you should be very happy. The losi diff is a great reliable diff that is every bit as durable as other diffs and only slightly harder to adjust. It looks like I couldn't keep it that short. lol I hope it isn't too hard to read through and I hope it helps. :)

cave- Hopefully I'll see you out there. I'll give tony a call tommorow. We might still be going in on some tires. I don't know I found some T-2000s for $15 shipped.

Saboteur- If it works fine there really is no need to buy an FM radio unless you are racing. The XR2 is a pretty good radio but an FM would be better but isn't necesary unless you get alot of glitching problems or are a really good driver.

[cave]

Saboteur I raced with the JRXR2 and really never had a problem. There is a difference in AM and FM. With the AM radio, If I was standing next to a person who was on lets say 83 and Im on 84 my truck would glitch. I would have to move over a bit to correct the problem. There are many advantages of a quality FM. I picked up a used M8 and I know now what I have been missing. For racing there is a whole lot of adjustments to play with. If your just bashing and not racing. Stick with the AM. The XR is a great radio for this. Heck even for racing. I'd still race with it if not for the great offer at the track on the M8. I could never go back now.

Got Speed I hope I can make it out. I'll leave my RC truck in the Tahoe so I may be alittle late for practice.
I figured I would be over this addiction by now. Aint happen yet.:D

cave

[Saboteur]

Thnx guys. Yeah, I dont have the oppertunity to race at all for a while since tracks are a bit of a distance to attend at the moment...especially with my schedule. Well I can worry bout the FM radio's later on and have fun with my NT and XR2. :)

[OmegaTrac]

Thanks for the diff instructions Got Speed. :D

[cave]

Does anyone out there know if Trinity makes 1° rear hubs for the Drake? I got the 2° hubs on now but I've been told to use the 1° hubs for the slippery track I run on. Anyone out there can you help me? If yes, Part # please. Where can I get the part. I dont want the plastick ones. Our track is gunna be real rough.

cave

[cave]

Here is my new body. Its had 2 heat races and 1 main on it. Top & bottom & sides &&&& you get the picture :D

cave

[Casper]

Yes they make 1 deg hubs. The part number is TK5071. They can be hard to find. Try Stormer hobbies or ultimate hobbies. I know ultimate has some in stock if you want ot order them from there. If you store does not have them though it may be a little while before them come in. Once Ultimate sells out of them it has been 2-3 months before they get more.

[cave]

Thanks Casper Im on my way.

I searched the site and found TTK5071 is this the same part. Does the buggy rears work on the Drake?

cave

[Got Speed]

OmegaTrac- No problem.

cave- I bought a whole new batt box today so I could just start off with a whole new box then I made that battery box brace. It looks like it will work great. It makes it alot stiffer. At first I was concerned that the brake linkage would get in the way with the one on the left but I bent it up a while back so it has just enough room to clear it. I thought I would have big problems with all the stuff I have in the back interfering. I've got my TRS going all the way to the shock tower, fuel line, brake linkage, batt wires, and batt box brace. But it seems there is just enough room for everything to fine without interfering. When I was at the track I noticed someone went out there when it was wet and messed part of it up. Do you have the tires you need yet? I'm not sure what I'm going to get yet. T-2000s, Taper Pins, or TRC Sonics. hehe. Sorry for the long post again.

[cave]

That may have been Mayfield . He was testing the tripple in front of the drivers stand to the right. Glad that worked out for ya. Maybe we can snap some pics and post em up here. I havnt bought any tires yet. Still waiting to see how thry groove the track.
I think that post may save some diffs.
latergs Hey Tony just got back from NY, NY. and Vegas MAybe race day on Saturday:D

Hey off topic. I thought I had problems with XP freezing up. I thought that it was XP.. Come to find out with the help of Virus Scan that I had a spyware or adware installed in my C:\ drive Ive had such a frustraighting time on this and Finally I found it. It is called DSSagent I hope you all dont have any spyware in your CP's. I got it from my work. Im hooked up 24 7 there on a T1 and I sometimes bring work home. Check or search for spy or DSSagent Hope you dont have one but if you do just keep deleting it till you get it all out!!! Check it out.

cave

[Locus]

Originally posted by cave
That may have been Mayfield . He was testing the tripple in front of the drivers stand to the right. Glad that worked out for ya. Maybe we can snap some pics and post em up here. I havnt bought any tires yet. Still waiting to see how thry groove the track.
I think that post may save some diffs.
latergs Hey Tony just got back from NY, NY. and Vegas MAybe race day on Saturday:D

Hey off topic. I thought I had problems with XP freezing up. I thought that it was XP.. Come to find out with the help of Virus Scan that I had a spyware or adware installed in my C:\ drive Ive had such a frustraighting time on this and Finally I found it. It is called DSSagent I hope you all dont have any spyware in your CP's. I got it from my work. Im hooked up 24 7 there on a T1 and I sometimes bring work home. Check or search for spy or DSSagent Hope you dont have one but if you do just keep deleting it till you get it all out!!! Check it out.

Cave - Give this a try, I use it all the time to ensure no spyware is on my pc....it works great! http://www.safer-networking.org/
cave

[MikeWz]

Cave- Is the adware thing you're talking about the one to remove pop-ups? I've had that on my comp for a while without any problems. I used to get like 3 pop-ups every 5 seconds or so and since installing that I've had no problems.

GS-what was your e-mail addy again? Need to know where to send the paypal to. Thanks again!

[Got Speed]

cave- I was looking over by the double at the southwest side. It was kind of messed up. Oh well. It will probably smooth out. I used to have that DSSagent on my comp but I got rid of it. I didn't even know it was spyware.

MikeWz- It is falcon247@Juno.com Give me an email there too with your address. thanks

[Dirtwerx]

Hey guys...I am in need of some suspension tuning advice on my drake edition. I have essentially built up my drake using Adam's "rough/slippery" track setup. I did deviate on one item....shock oil. I believe his recommendations were 35f/45r. I went with a 30/35 (with stock springs) setup, and it seems to be causing me some issues. Basically, the truck goes into an instant nose dive off pretty much any jump. I suspect that the rear end of the truck is preloading off the lip, and sending the truck nose first into the ground. I have the ride height set at arms level front and rear.

Should I swap fluid to Drake's specs, or is there some other combo that has proven to work pretty well? My track has a couple of large jumps, but is also pretty rough. I am looking for a combo that will give me adequate dampening for the big air, while being compliant enough to keep the wheels on the ground in the washboard style sections....and of course remain semi-flat in the air.

Also, I yanked out a couple shock ends at the track. Is there anything I can do to make them a bit more durable? The first one went after 2 laps.

Any suggestions?

[ross]

Originally posted by Dirtwerx
Also, I yanked out a couple shock ends at the track. Is there anything I can do to make them a bit more durable? The first one went after 2 laps.

Any suggestions?

Yeah I've had that problem too, Last race both front and rear came out on the same side in seperate heats.

About your setup, I would have thought lowering the rear ride height would help as well has adding more lead weight to the back. Im not sure shock oil makes much difference to how your truck jumps. Also try and perfect your jumping technique, go up to the jump on the throttle just as your front wheel touches it let off the throttle and then power back on which will bring the nose up. You can also blip the throttle in mid air to bring the nose up.

[Casper]

I run Drakes "the dirt" setup which is 30 fr and 40 rear for the oils. I ran this setup at The Dirt and Lake perris raceway which has huge 1/8th scale jumps. The truck work great with his standard setup. The only place I change the setup is for Hot rod hobbies which is blue groove. I went up 5 weight in oil all the way around and moved the front camber link into the #2 position. My truck flighs real level. If you are going nose first make sure you drag break is not too high and or leave the throttle on a little longer. I could be your jumps too. I have found it harder to keep the nose down on most big jumps with the standard setup. As for shock ends. Make sure you have shock shafts with complete threads. Some of the shafts get through with "flat" threads on the end. I have started to CA the ends on the shafts. This has solved the ends coming off problem for me.

[Got Speed]

Dirtwerx- If it goes imedeatly into a dive my guess would be that you either have drag brake or something else is dragging on your drive train. If not, that setup won't cause you to go go imedeatly into a dive. It may make it have a tendancy to go nose down a little but not a lot. If your drive train still checks out I would practice throttle control in the air and at the face of the jump. I ran that setup for quite a while and it worked pretty well on the track I was running on.

[Saboteur]

Anyone running a 50wt setup all around with the stock springs ( well the one's on the sport NT)? I just got some today and thought I'd give it a whirl. Needed to adjust the spring tension but not change the shock mounting. Now the truck wont bottom out when I drop it 3-4ft in the air. Still giving the slipper clutch some adjusting and waiting for this weekend to test it out. Wish me luck. :)

[MikeWz]

Just don't jump her too high. You may bend the chassis

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Just don't jump her too high. You may bend the chassis

Are you serious? :eek: :confused: I mean even though its 50wt with the stock springs it doesnt seem really stiff at all. How high would you consider TOO high? BTW I rarely get the chance to do big air, just romps.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- If you are racing 50 wt. will probably be too heavy. If not, that's not too bad. I wouldn't go higher though because handling will probably suffer. You shouldn't really worry about bottoming out unless it does it real hard, makes you bounce after you land, or throws you way off on landing.

[cave]

Locus Hey thanks for that link. Man I didnt even know how many spyware deals were on my cp!!!! I had 85. No wonder i was so slow. That should be Illegal. Installing things into a persons cp should be punishable by death!!!!:mad:
Thanks again.

The guys who race dirt oval in PHX use 50wt oil. One guy told me he has 90wt gear oil in his shocks. I could smell it too. Those trucks dont look to stable. They do run fast in a oval.

cave

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- I forgot about what cave said. If you are racing oval you would run oil that thick. When I had my GT and raced oval I used 70wt. oil. It was thick stuff but it is necesary for oval.

[Got Speed]

Locus- Thanks for the link. lol It found 139 different things.

cave- I'm not going to wait too long since I am getting it through mail order. Scott said red T-2000s. and mayfield said red T-2000s or red Taper Pins. Did you end up racing tuesday? If so, how was it?

[Saboteur]

Thnx. Actually I think I just needed more oil in the shocks as there was only a small amount inside. As I mentioned before I will test it out. Since I do have the stock springs on, with the 50wt oil its only slightly stiffer than the current setting I had on it. If it doesnt work out I'll have my LHS order some 35 or 40 wt shock oil, but the 50 will do fine for now.

[cave]

Saboteur are you racing? I may have missed a post or two. If you have read some of my post you probably know I'm alittle agressive. When I hit the tripples I hit the tripples with the intention of clearing them. My Losi sees some serious action when I drive. I definatly work those Drake shocks!!! I use the softest springs and 35 wt oil and It does bottom out a bit but it handles so darn good that this is the trade off. Heck I can buy a new chassies if it gets to scratched up. I like those streaks on the bottom. It gives it that SCORE off road look:D. Our tracks at SRS are usually pretty brutal. I have yet to use the 4o wt that comes with the Drake. If your experamenting with different setups Let Me Know how it turns out.

Pardon Me. I just read the first post at the top. Just bashing huh.
Ok I get it. Please excuse my oversite. Told ya my eyes were playin tricks on me.:cool:

Got Speed I didnt make it out. I was wiped out after work. My eyes were acting up. I mover my screen at work closer and it seems to be affecting my eye site. Ill be there Saturday if I dont have to close up the Office. You going Saturday? I want those 1° Trinity rear hubs. Do you know if the Buggy hubs work on the XXXNT? Thats the site address that I keep getting from most folks.

cave

[Casper]

The rear hubs are common for all of the XXX series. The XXXNT and the XXXT share all front end parts (except the lower nose plate) and the XXX has different caster blocks and spindles.

[Got Speed]

cave- I really want to be out there. I think I will be able to. I've been sick for the last couple of days but I feel pretty good now so I should be out there. Hopefully the rain will hold out too. This track just looks awesome.

Saboteur- Sorry I didn't see your post at the top. If you have used the same oil over and over again that will make it break down after a while.

[Dirtwerx]

....so back to the battery box bracing...does anyone have pics of what they did to strengthen it? I brought the drake out to the track again yesterday, made it about 1/2 a lap and the battery box broke off for the 2nd time. The truck has now broken 3 times in just over 2 tanks of fuel.

I must say I have not been impressed with the truck's strength so far. For as much money as I have invested in this thing, I was hoping that I could at least make it around the track once! :rolleyes:

If I can't make the truck reliable, its worthless to me. At this point I am not sure that I even want to race it since it appears likely that I won't even finish a heat.

Is there any upgrade or way to relocate the battery to solve this problem?

[Casper]

Honestly I have never broken a battery box in the 10 months I have had the truck. I ran the battery box for two runs without the upper screws in it also and it still did not fall off. I did replace the box shortly after running it that way because with all the reports I have been hearing I got scared. There is one or two companies that make alum battery boxes for this truck. I think RCTRIX.com is one of the places that sells the alum box. The truck is strong. I have broken it but mostly when I deserved it. I have had great luck keeping my truck together.

[offroadcrazy01]

There are some parts you can put on the truck.There is a rear pivot block made by trinity.But no upgrade in the world can replace great driving there is a lot to learn so take your time please dont go for the hype that one truck is better then the other it 's all about driver and set-up save your self some money and try try try again buy a temp gun learn how to tune your motor go to teamlosi.com find a set-up that fits your driving Good luck,also hitting the brake in the air will make the front come down first taking some pressure off the rear there is a battery box brace it cost 15.00 bucks also a rear shock brace 15.00 and the rear pivot block cost 30.00 bucks

[dkj-M3]

landing from a big jump on the rear is what breaks the boxes. most fast guys don't have that problem, cause they know how to jump. all it takes is one hit & it cracks, then just gets worser, till it falls or hangs off.

[cave]

Dirtwerx I came up with a easy fix. I break alot of parts but ITs ALL MY FAULT! Take and place a ball stud on the top of the shock tower were a swaybar would mount. That would be at the base of the tower on the motor side. Next you need the parts tree for the stearing horns. That tree has the part that has 2 ball cups molded into one part. It connects the stearing linkage. Next pop one end of the 2 sided ball cup part onto the ball stud on the base of the tower. This will help you measure the placement of the ballstud onto the battery case top part. Mark and drill a 5/32" hole on the the top part of the case then attach the ball stud to it. Next pop the other side of the cup onto the battery box. If you need more streagth add one on the other side to match. Watch out for the brake bar. you have to clear it.or buy a Dynamite, Native racing aluminum battery carrier. If you think this trucks battery box sucks, check oud Associated's zip tie deal. Ive seen more batteries bounce n out of those trucks.LOL. Good luck.

Casper thanks again. I'll order them from Horizon. They have em in stock. There site is hard for ME to navigate. Wish they let me design there next one.

cave

[Dirtwerx]

Thank you guys for objectively reviewing my driving ability in the absense of any knowledge of my skill. :rolleyes: I've been driving 1/8th scale buggies for quite a while now, and am a relatively decent driver....not perfect, but by no stretch a newbie.

Part of the issue is the track I am running on is "big" by 1/10th scale truck standards. The big double is about 22 feet from take off to landing...the track is very rough and unforgiving. Occasionally, I will land on the ass-end. Maybe if I possessed your supreme driving skill I could avoid this, but alas I am not the R/C god that you appear to be. Given my imperfect technique, I need to find a way to make the truck durable enough to handle the mistakes that I make. Crashing is part of the territory where I run....all I need to do is make the truck strong enough to handle my errors.

[dkj-M3]

hmmmm. I never said i was fast, & i didn't say you were slow or a novice. I simply stated why they break to Caspers post.

My buddy has a fix that uses the xxx-t motor guard & parts similar to what cave posted but using hpi muffler mounts. He's been running it for a year on different tracks & never broke it. I have the parts to make it, but I'm waiting till I break my box that's on my truck now. I'll try & get some pics this weekend.

KJ

[ross]

My pal was having problems with his battery box cracking, so he made a custom aluminium one thats a complete re production of the stock one. He polished it up and it looks awesome, not got any pics though :(


Dirtwerx,
Stop been so touchy I dont think djk did review your driving he just simply stated why battery boxes break. You got some help and tips from here didnt you?

[Casper]

Dirtwerx-- I am sorry if I stepped on your toes. I am far from a supreme god who is a force to reckon with on the R/C scene. I was just letting you know that the truck is not all that fragile. I have seen people break them an I know that it happens. I race a places that have knarly jumps. Check out www.lprp.com for some pics of the track. I have landed on the back a couple times and I guess I am just lucky for not breaking the box. There are solutions and I gave you one. There are alum boxes out there that help with this problem. There are guys on ebay that are selling plates that attach to the bottom that are supposed to help. To see one of those put this auction number in the search on ebay 3148545679. or follow this link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3148545679&category=44028

I am here to help you in anyway I can. I am sorry if I offended you in my first response. I did not mean to attack you as a person or a driver. :o

[Got Speed]

Dirtwerx- I don't think anybody was saying you were a bad driver. You can't compare a 1/10 truck to a 1/8 buggy in durability. An 1/8 buggy will always be more durable. All 1/10 trucks are more fragile, you just have to drive them more carefully.
It sounds like you've got some nasty jumps and it won't take to many hard hits on that box. Breaking 3 parts in 2 tanks is rare so I'd say you have been crashing too hard or you just had some messed up parts. Read cave's idea about the brace. I did something similar and it makes it a lot stiffer.

[Saboteur]

Cave- Yeah I am just bashing. Im using the stock Sport NT springs on it which is why the 50wt doesnt seem so stiff at all. I'll try to head out early tomorrow before I have to go to work and try to run it. If not, sunday or monday.

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
hmmmm. I never said i was fast, & i didn't say you were slow or a novice. I simply stated why they break to Caspers post.
KJ

I'll say it! You're fast! Real fast, especially since you have been racing only a short time, compared to others you can hang with on the track!

[cave]

Dirtwerx I really dont see any post here bashing your abuilities. We simpley gave you our stories and fixes. Try mine Its a simple fix and most people have that part on the tree. Ill Take pics Of Got Speeds NT tonight IF he makes it out.
The Gods of xxxnt have there own sites. I can only speek for myself here but I try to help anyone who will listen. I'm not a pro. Ive been out of the rc field for many many years and resently got back into racing. THESE people here have been so helpful and pointed out there ways of avoiding more broken parts. I CAN break any part on any car :D . 1/8 1/5 1/10 Full size chevy ROAR sanction ORP. Its just my way of releasing stress. If I find a way to Beef up a part that I agree with you is week I try to pass it on. I listen to all these awesome people who could just say nothing and let everyone learn on there own. Thanks all you peps for your help over the last year or so. If your ever in Arizona lets Hook up.
Where else in racing can you get good advise? everyone I know in racing keeps that edge to themselves. Maybe your used to the thicker parts of 8th scale. Those 8ths really kick kester!!! They dont allow them to race At SRS but there opening an 8th scale track in Tempe AZ right next door to Mesa where I live. Dont get pissed Dirtwerx. All we want to do is help you out.
Welcome to nt zone. Ill try to post tonight west coast time Hopefully it will help ya out.

Sorry for the novel.

cave

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- It will probably work pretty well in bashing. For jumping alot I'd say that is about right.

cave- An 1/8 track in Tempe!? Do you know who is building it? I was talking to a guy the other day on here who was thinking about putting one up in Tempe. Is it some guy off here or a Hobby Town?

[offroadcrazy01]

What 's up casper you did good at the reedy race I was going to go but had to work (Dang)!!!!!!!!!at the last min are you going to race at the norrca the flyer is up today at hotrodhobbies.com I'm going to race that if I have to call off sick this will be my first big race good luck if you go.

[cave]

Got Speed I dont know whos opening it up. Veno Jr told me about it. So did Mayfield. They both say that Its fun to race thos big uns
Going to SRS ? today?

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah, I'm going. I'll probably be out there at 1pm. I'm going to get out there early so I can practice and work on my set-up. My 1/8 scale was alot of fun when I had it but I'm not going to get one to race whether they open a track here or not. It was too expensive for me. If I had alot more money maybe but the buggys and every thing for them was expensive. You could realisticly expect to pay $100+ for a torsen diff(a buggy has 3 BTW, lol)

[Casper]

offroadcrazy01 -- Hey how is it going. I had engine troubles all weekend but still did pretty well. My slipper became too loose for the B main and I ended up using too much gas since I was always on the throttle due to the slipper slipping that I ran out of gas twice. That is my fault though. I need to remember to tighten the slipper a little more on those blue groove tracks! I am not attending the NORRCA gas nats. I would like but my tree that money grows on died last month if you catch my drift. I am planning on running the So Cal supercross (electric only) and that new Jimmy Babcock series race next year. ( again electric only) In the mean time I will race Gas on the club level but no money to race in the big races until next year! :( :(

[offroadcrazy01]

He has been talking about his races I might race Jimmy's race too.He said all the tracks are no more then a hour from hotrods.I need batterys.There are going to be alot of good people there it will be fun.I feel you on the money tree LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

[rccarman5]

hey guys i have a problem with my car but i dont really think it's important but it bugs me, the spur grear wobbles from left to right, i know it's normal. it's hardly noticable but i want to end that wobbling, i was thinking about buying the new cnc aluminum top shaft losi offers, will that rid the whobbling? and is it worth it? does it increase performance?

[MikeWz]

I don't believe that will cure the wobbling, and it's not something to worry about anyway cause you can't see that with the body on. The top shaft gives a little more acceleration cause it's a bit lighter than the standard shaft. I think it's worth it.

[rccarman5]

also has anyone used MIP cvd's on their xxx-nts? i'm sure they're better than stock units. right? if people do run them, can u take them from the mat francis electric truck?

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by MikeWz
I don't believe that will cure the wobbling, and it's not something to worry about anyway cause you can't see that with the body on. The top shaft gives a little more acceleration cause it's a bit lighter than the standard shaft. I think it's worth it.

i think i will buy that shaft, but i think it should illiminate wobbling

[MikeWz]

I run CVD's on my truck. They don't seem to give as much side bite in on-gas turns for some reason. Not sure why, they just don't, however they seem to provide a smoother acceleration, which I like. DO NOT take the Francis ones for the XXX-NT. The francis ones are aluminum and the nitro engine will chew them up in no time. You'll snap them so fast.

[rccarman5]

see thats what i was wondering, are they safe, which ones do u use? i mean i dont have a race motor, it's a sport xtm motor, not so fast at all, just to get me runnin, i mean i have a nice truck and all, i'm upgrading slowly from a kit truck (graphite this and that)

i just need graphite center brace and rear shock tower.