View Full Version : Team Losi XXXNT forum v7.0
Casper
10-12-2003, 08:37 PM
The alum top shaft has a benefit of being one piece. That is nice because if the C clip that holds the top gear on the shaft for the steel version falls off it will eat up your tranny. I have seen this happen! As for wobbling I would replace the spur gear. The center hole can wear out since it spins on the shaft when the slipper slips.
As far as CVD's go. Most gas racers to not use CVD's becuase the Losi universals work better on rougher tracks. Since a lot of gas outdoor tracks also run 8th scales the track is usually pretty hammered or at least rutty. The CVD's would better on smoother conditions. The MF CVD's are steel and will work just fine the the NT. That alum bones are hopups but no one runs them in mod. They are a stock thing since even electric mod motors will snap alum bones!
rccarman5
10-12-2003, 08:42 PM
my spur gear is brand new, i think i'm going to get the aluminum piece, this hsould illimate most all wobble. i mean i know my slipper plates aren't dented
Got Speed
10-12-2003, 11:58 PM
rccarman5- The wobbling isn't important. It won't slow you down or anything unless it is really bad. It could be your spur gear, slipper plates, or possible top shaft. I tried getting the wobble out once before and found it was the slipper plates. They may not look warped but they can be. But as I said it really dosn't matter. I only did it just to see if I could get it out. I wouldn't strip down my whole tranny just to put the alum. top shaft in. You most likely won't even notice a difference. Don't use the CVD's. In most cases they will cause a loss of traction. The stock universals are great.
I just thought the other day how great it would be to have alum. bellcranks. I would definatly buy them. They wouldn't even weigh much since they are so small. Who else would like to see these? I'd like to email someone who can make these and see how much it would cost.
GS thanks for the Link. Me and Tony practiced all day Sunday on the new layout. That track is chalenging. We stopped all the Sunday crowd from wetting the track so we could practise on driving on the dry stuff. One car width outside of the groove and it spins out quick. Cant wait to try some dry track tires. I burned up two sets of new Bow Ties and one set of Holeshots. I know these are the wrong tires I just wanted to try it out dry. Thetires didnt last too long on dry. I think I'm going with the Losi's reds in the rear. Silver 8 ribs for the front. I seen the locals out there and they seem to hookup real good. See ya thursday. I hope.
On the Bell cranks, maybe the cap that retains all that stuff too in aluminum:D
cave
RCRACER2471
10-13-2003, 10:32 AM
Hey guys,
I went to my Local track yesterday. Man was it wet out and was supossed to rain later on. So we went inside the shop to pay to use the tracks for the day. The guy there said no you cant because the 1/4 scale guys are racing all day on the on road track the 1/8 scale guys are on the off road. You wouldnt wanna mess with them. So I said could we use it at all. He said go talk to the race director at the track. So me and my friend went to the track and there was no one there. So we went back to the shop and told the guy that no one was there. And he said they must of chickened out for the day. So we then paid and went to the off road track.
I had my Losi running great. Jumps perfectly. The handling is just so great I have too much control. The track was a little muddy in some places but other wise just fine. After 3 - 4 tanks of gas. My ball end popped off. Then later on the pin came out of one of my cvd's. Then the last thing that happed was a bearing seized in my left rear axle. All the balls came out and the shell was still stuck in there. I have no clue how that happened but luckily I had a spare. It started raining later on but me and my friend were still out there so I guess we're the real die hard fans...:p
RCRACER2471
10-13-2003, 10:34 AM
Originally posted by Casper
As far as CVD's go. Most gas racers to not use CVD's becuase the Losi universals work better on rougher tracks. Since a lot of gas outdoor tracks also run 8th scales the track is usually pretty hammered or at least rutty. The CVD's would better on smoother conditions. The MF CVD's are steel and will work just fine the the NT. That alum bones are hopups but no one runs them in mod. They are a stock thing since even electric mod motors will snap alum bones!
Now i know why those cvds keep falling out. I was gona say that it wasnt worth my money to buy them...
Thats funny I just replaced one of mine 2 races ago. I run the heck outa them for 4 months with the Mugen. Poped many warn ball cups and some new ones. I think for what I put that Losi through the bones hold better than average.
cave
Damifudo
10-13-2003, 03:38 PM
Yesterday I was out playing with the XXXNT on a dry dirt track it seems to only want to do donuts and was spinning out alot.
A friend told me the my diff was too tight that it was acting as a posi rear. That I need to loosen it, so I could hold one wheel and the other would not spin. When I read the instruction book it tells me not to loosen the diff that much if I hold the right wheel and hold the slipper, the left wheel should be hard to turn. What is the set up I need to do on the diff? This is a new car for me and I am not sure of the diff set ups. Can you please explain how the diff functions and how I should adjust it? I agree the car wants to spin out way too easy. Thanks for your help
rccarman5
10-13-2003, 05:33 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
rccarman5- The wobbling isn't important. It won't slow you down or anything unless it is really bad. It could be your spur gear, slipper plates, or possible top shaft. I tried getting the wobble out once before and found it was the slipper plates. They may not look warped but they can be. But as I said it really dosn't matter. I only did it just to see if I could get it out. I wouldn't strip down my whole tranny just to put the alum. top shaft in. You most likely won't even notice a difference. Don't use the CVD's. In most cases they will cause a loss of traction. The stock universals are great.
so you're telling me you got rid of teh wobble? i'm still going to get the aluminum top shaft and if it still wobbles, which i knwo it wont because i can see the shaft literally wobble when the gear is off, i will get new slipper plates, becaue the gear is brand new.
dkj-M3
10-13-2003, 05:47 PM
It might be the bearing holding the shaft. My shaft has been wobbling since August racing every week 15min mains & even survived a 30 min main, so I figure if it's not broke don't fix it. & there is nothing wrong with how it performs.
Got Speed
10-13-2003, 06:26 PM
rccarman5- It is gone but it dosn't really matter like I said.
cave- I really need to get out there and practice alot on thursday. I don't have alot of $$$ for tires/fuel/and all that stuff to be running constantly but I need to practice alot. I'll probably be out there around 5:30 on thursday. I'm going to get to the state champs on friday about 6pm so I can practice all night. lol
GS How about this. I call tony and tell him to forget the fuel refill deal. Ill tell him that YOU will build him a new diff Which he supllies all the parts and he'll pick up a few sets of tires for ya. You can deal with him on the front or back tire part . He really needs some one to build one for him. I dont have the time. Maybe you can get 3 sets of rears. All you got to save for are some rims and maybe a few other tires. Give me an email shot and I give him a call in Lost Wages Nevada. I already talked to him about this and he said that you want him to pick up that refueler. I think you aut to build a diff for him and make a deal. :D
I just E mailed T!!!!! Another Mugen on the way. I have 7.5 gallons on this motor. I dont want to take a chance on it giving at the state deal. It was running fast Brandon and at 220°. I tweeked the mid needle and man It hits hard in the straights. Less heat. This was out at around 1 to 3pm 95 to 105°
see ya Thursday. Hey ya know Tony and I are getting the RV or trailer right?
What about that pick on the box brace GS?
cave
dkj-M3
15 minute mains. Thats awesome. I got 10 minutes 9 seconds on one tank of fuel. Did you have a pit stop? How long can you go before you need to refuel? I hope I find out what that is like. It would take 2 days if we had 30 minute mains every weekend. I think I would have to buy a new Losi every 3 months :) :mad: :D
cave
rccarman5
10-13-2003, 10:33 PM
sweet, it's gone, whic means mine will work becaue my plates are like brand new, only used less than 1 gallon. so they shouldnt' be warped. i've never crashed it hard on that side.
dkj-M3
10-13-2003, 10:51 PM
lol cave. the 30 min main is once at our big state race & again at the big champs race in winter at crcrc. oh yeah, I forgot about the money race I went to once, it was a 30minute main also. But that was for the a-main. Our regular club races around here are 15 for the a & 10 for the b, then 7 for the rest.
I have a Novarossi RS-12 Modded by a friend, I had the sleeve pinched by osrocket too. The most I got out of it was 16min at 230* before a pit, I could make like 1 lap after the race when it ran out. I don't know what my buddy did to it, but it's the best engine I ever had, plenty of smooth power. I would get my idle temp to about 200* & it idles a full tank. It could idle 5mins without me reving it, set it on the track & it would take off with little to no bogg.:D Talk about electric convenyince(sp?) with nitro.
I also have the orion wasp stock no mods, that I put a novarossi carb on. I don't know what the deal is with the wasp. But I got it to last 19 mins on 1 tank at 220*. It didn't have as much power as the the nova, but it is decent power. The thing is running it at 220* makes it run too lean, it cuts off after 5 min of running & would be too hot(220*) to restart. So I richened up both needles, got the temp to like 180* & it's faster than it was at 220* It doesn't get the 19mins tho & idles for only like 5 sec. I ran a 30min main with it at 180* & it keeps up with everything on the track & after 30min it still said 180*. I'm guessing that's the sweet spot for it.
ok your probably bored by now if you read down this far.
Racin Rev
10-13-2003, 11:05 PM
Damifudo,
I am by no means an expert but I will give it a try. I think that you might be able to loosen a bit, but be warned, he who plays with fire often gets burned.
The most important consideration when adjusting a diff is that the slipper slip before the diff does. I would leave a little margin for error too as the settings can change over time particularly with a new diff, or a reset adjustment. The diff has a bunch of hard little balls inside which seat against metal. They are held in place by the diff gear, which is made of plastic. The little balls act like the gears in a conventional diff, when force is applied one way they attempt to spin the other shaft the other way. If the diff is too loose the little balls will skid against the other metal bits which produces heat. too much heat and your diff gear melts and you have to pull the gearbox apart and replace it, which is no small job and a pain in the backside when you are in a hurry at the track, that is, if you have or can get the part.
There may be a couple of other things to look at.
You might could soften or lower your rear end a little. consult set up sheets on the losi website for more details. another thing which helped me a lot was to set the exponential on my radio to the moon. that causes the power to be applied more gradually at first and more later when you are planted on the ground. (I have a slide carb and this is particularly importent) Finally, finger control must be exercised. if you pop your throttle finger to the stop, no adjustment in the world will help. Last October i got to watch Kinwald on the night before octoberfast in mn. He was very fast. I would describe the speed with which he pulls the trigger as very slow. he rolls the power on in a slow and consistant rate. he even brakes slowly. Rolling the throttle is one of the hardest and most important things to learn.
rccarman5
10-13-2003, 11:17 PM
racin rev, that happened to me but inever replaced my diff balls, they are teh carbide balls, should they be fine? i replaced the metal rings adn teh gear. and i pulled the diff apart the other day adn they are grooved very little butn othing near as much as when i had it loose and it slipped all day?
the ballsa re perfect, well they look perfect.
i know how to set the diff now and i'm aware of the slipper to slip before diff. do u think my balls are fine?
dkj-M3
10-13-2003, 11:23 PM
Damifudo -
Ask one of the real fast guys at your track too check you diff, or if you can feel his diff to know how loose/tight it should be (maybe I should rephrase that). If your diff is so loose that the other wheel does'nt turn, it is too loose & it will melt the diff gear. If there a light fluffy sand on top of hard packed dirt, then the problem might be too much power(lol). I agree with racing rev, a slick surface requires smooth throttle control. What engine & tires are you running & what type of surface?
Racin Rev
10-13-2003, 11:25 PM
rccarman5
lol, I would hope that you can monitor the condition of your own balls. :o :D
I think that what you are saying is if the balls are ok after melting a diff gear, if this is true they probably are ok.
Plastic melts at 424 degrees F but begins to distort way before that. either way the carbide balls should be able to withstand that kind of heat no problem.
dkj-M3
10-13-2003, 11:27 PM
rccarman5- maybe you should rephase that.
"do u think my balls are fine?":eek: :D
rccarman5
10-13-2003, 11:34 PM
c'mon guys, i'm asking a question here, not being a pervert, how old are you guys?
not but it didnt' metl the gear all the way, it kinda pushed the balls into it and u can see the trail of the balls. it's very vvery small and u can hardly see it but you must look closely. so i thikn it just got a little warm and start shaping it funny.
dkj-M3
10-13-2003, 11:41 PM
that was just too good to pass up. I'm not a Doc but your balls should be fine.;) :D I only replace my carbide balls for big races, that's like twice a year.
Damifudo
10-14-2003, 07:48 AM
Sounds like what I need is experience! I am glad to hear It is better to be a little to tight with the diff and a little too loose with the slipper! I guess like everything eles in this hobby it is better to ask first and then give it a try. I dont have anyone at the track that I run that realy runs a Losi but I have lots of on road guys around and I think they were telling me I was too loose. Maybe your right I have too much power for the conditions. We were just bashing around the track not realy racing so I didnt have the soft rear tires on either. I had my dirt Hawgs on and I know I dont get great rear traction with them. I have a pair of Hole shots that I run at the track when racing. I dont do much racing so I mostly use the dirt hawgs for bashing. Again thanks for the advice I always get good information on here.
dkj-M3
10-14-2003, 11:00 AM
if you were running the dirt hogs on a dry track, that was the problem. Your diff should be fine. Tires are #1 on the list when it comes to set-up. Your holeshots or maybe some red step-pins will hook-up a lot better than the dirt hogs.
Got Speed
10-14-2003, 07:33 PM
cave- That would be awesome but I wouldn't mind doing it for nothing. I didn't know he thought I was asking him to get a fuel gun. lol I just mentioned it at the track how they looked nice. Tell him I wasn't implying he should buy one :p sorry about that. But yeah I would build the diff for him. I would need his tranny though too because I can't really adjust it very well without putting it in the tranny. You didn't get the picture of the box brace? I'll send it again. BTW: that snowball thing was pretty funny.
I'll let him Know. I got the pic now Lets see if it reduced
This is a pic of the brace Got Speed installed on his battery box to help it on those nose up landings and such.
cave
Tony didnt think you were asking him to buy it. He agreed with you on it being a usfull tool in our Quick top off stops. I think he wants to build a complete new one. Diff that is. Are you going to be at SRS on Thursday? He can pick up all the parts there at the track. Maybe some tires for ya too. My Mugen Seems to be fine I just wanted to buy a new one just in case It dosent get its 8th gallon though it. I would hate to be at the state race and end up in the ZZZ main without a motor LOL.:D. Boyscout ya know. Alway be prepared!!!
cave
Xx_RICHARD_xX
10-14-2003, 10:39 PM
ok you guys are making me really want to get a mugen. All this talk of 7-8 gal. of gas that is insaine. I just hope my picco is not trashed out. The LHS is supposed to get my carb adapter tomorrow. Then I will know. I guess if it is I might get one. But my wallet is starting to hurt just thinking of it. Then the angel on my other shoulder is saying to just get the picco squeazed if it is really broken. Oh the decisions we have to make....Um If I have to replace the carb could I fit a mugen mt 12 carb in the picco?
Xx_RICHARD_xX I dont know if this is normal. I get lots of fuel through all my 2 stoke engines. My Banshee usually gets around 100 gallons through it. Most of my friends get 50 gallons to a rebuild. I run the Heck out of it too!!! Sand drags, Glamis. Thats the mecca for duneing. Heck even my chian saw runs forever. Im break them in the old style way. Heat to cold for 2 to 4 tanks. then run it in the truck in the same maner for a couple more tanks. then go all out. let cool all the way down. It takes a day or 2 but the results are awesome.
Any quality motor can get the same fuel through it. The first few minutes makes the difference. I get it to run to 240° 250° or so then let it cool all the way down to cold. do it again and again on the 4th time I run it to 230° 240°. Im no pro at these Micro motors But I am JAH Guru when it come to 2 stroke motors. Heat is your friend at break in. But thats the only time its friendly
cave
Xx_RICHARD_xX
10-15-2003, 06:44 AM
I see says the blind man...
Got Speed may know if the carb works from a picco. The Mugen is based on a Novarossi if that helps.
cave
dkj-M3
10-15-2003, 09:03 AM
I put my novarossi carb on my wasp, which is a picco. I just had to cut a little off the bottom of the lip & it slides right in.
Got Speed
10-15-2003, 10:50 AM
cave- Oh ok. I'm not sure yet if I will be racing on thursday. If you are going to be there I can at least get over there and pick the stuff up though. I hope to be there though. I really need some practice.:p For that Mugen you could send your sleeve in to osrocket and get it back just in time.
Xx_RICHARD_xX- Like cave said. Any high quality engine will take lots of gallons of fuel on it as long as it is broken it properly and tuned well from day to day. A sure sign of a poorly tuned engine is if you blow out glow plugs every quart or so of fuel. I'm not sure on the picco/mugen carb thing. I know it wouldn't drop right in at least.
rccarman5
10-15-2003, 04:01 PM
has anyone ever beenable to build shocks that are airless? i mean wheni pump the shocks all the way, i can hear them squeek.i know this is normal but has anyone ever been able to build shocks that are completely airlesS? so u can pump themall the way and hear nothing.
Casper
10-15-2003, 04:37 PM
rccarman5-- You have to run bladders to do this and losi shocks are not designed this way. The reason you need air is that the shock shaft displaces oil volume when it enters the shock body. If there was no air then you would have presurized shocks. The only way to have airless shocks is to run a bladder that compensates for the volume displaced by the shock shaft. I think Yok/AE shocks can be built this way but we all know now well those work! LOL :eek:
rccarman5
10-15-2003, 07:35 PM
so you're saying they will always squeek? if air is in them, then i guess it will always squeek. i understand what u meant by bladders, i noticed that losi shocks are flat on top so the bladder could not have space to move in and out. thanks.
Got Speed Hope ya make it out Thursday night. So does Tony :D
GS How many tires you think we'll eat up? Will 3 sets of rears work and 1 set of fronts? Whats your guess? Im getting the T 2000 for the rear. Silver 8 ribs fer the front. On the Losi site the tire chart says the directionals work best on blue groove is this true?
Casper what does your experience say on how many sets of rears and fronts? You've done this type of racing before. Anyone else advice welcome also.
We have 2 days of racing, We will race 2 five minute heats on Saturday and 1- 5 minute Main on Sunday. I dont plan on being in any of the 15 or 10 minute mains. There are so many good drivers here:mad: But I do however plan onbeing in the x y or Z main. J/K. Ill make the B at least
This will be my 1st blue groovy race.
cave
dkj-M3
10-15-2003, 11:07 PM
if there is little, to no dust, I would try red 8 ribs & red tapers or R3 evil twins. See what the tire of choice is for the club races.
Casper
10-16-2003, 12:29 AM
It really depends on the tires you choose. Tapers you can get 2 runs on realistically. They do not last that long. T-2000's will last longer. That is about all I can say about that. I hope it helps. Also stay away from the R3 tires. They do not work!
Ive asked most of the fast guys and this is one thing they gaurd. Tire choice. I asked The guy behind the counter @SRS he says the siver 8 ribs up front and T2000 for the rear. He is sponcered and has to use the tires alotted to him and these are not the tires he can use. Clubs? good ol boys maybe, I dont think we have clubs here. Thanks guys, It does Help!!! I dont know how often they/we will sweep the track. This will be my 1st blue groove race so I cant recall if the track was sweeped after every race. I cant see that happening cause there are 30 classes. Thanks again.
cave
Got Speed
10-16-2003, 10:36 AM
cave- It looks like I will be able to make it out there tonight. Yeah. I think 3 sets. 1 for each race. Even though it isn't the right tire I've got a pair of holeshots I'm going to burn up friday before the race to get a feel for it. T-2000s rear 8 ribs up front sounds good. From what I have heard from everyone they say 8 ribs work best up front not directionals. I'm going to try my directionals thought just to see. Are you planning on going tonight?
dkj-M3- During the club races it isn't blue grooved. Only for the state champs and our Cactus Classic. All the other times it is just hard packed and watered.
Got Speed
10-16-2003, 01:39 PM
Does anybody have any suggestions on a high torque servo? I was looking at the Airtronics 94357 (125oz/in torque @ .10 sec) and the 94358(200oz/in torque .07 sec). I see the 58 has alot more torque but it is a little slower. I know 200oz/in torque isn't needed but which would be a better choice? Or are there better choices? I can't spend $150 on a servo though.
Thanks
jdm3849
10-16-2003, 01:44 PM
Did you mean 200oz/.10sec & 125oz/.07sec ?
I would take the faster one over the one with more torque, I had a 133oz servo in my truck and it didn't seem to do much better, but you will surely notice the speed increase.
Got Speed
10-16-2003, 01:54 PM
Yeah, sorry. I meant 58(200oz/in torque .10 sec) and 57(125oz/in torque .07 sec).
Casper
10-16-2003, 01:58 PM
Both have more speed and torque then necessary. Both as excelent choices! I tend to use the 358's in trucks and 1/8th scale and 357's in buggies although the 357 works great in trucks also. It is your choice. The should be the same price so that should not be your deciding factor. You might want to look into digital servos also. The 757 (115oz/.07). Digital servos tend to use a little more of you reciever batter though but they center better. I personally run the Futaba 9402 (111oz /.10) and it is a great servo in my gas truck. I do run airtronics in my electrics though. I just found a really good deal on the futaba servo on ebay.
dkj-M3
10-16-2003, 02:23 PM
you can't go wrong with either, I personally use the 357 & love it. It's the only servo I buy. I have heard that the top KO servos are real good.
GS I will be there At around 4- 430 depending on traffic. hope they dont start racing at 4 now.
heck I didnt even know there were any club races at SRS. Are the Nitro racers not invited? Wut up wit dat?
I burnt up a set of hole shots on Sunday in two tanks. I was taking it easy too.
I still cant understand why those guys ( Fast Guys ) said I hacked Treger. Heck I let him by me Even tho I was in 1st place. Ill be myself tonight. see ya there
cave
Got Speed
10-16-2003, 03:15 PM
Casper- I'll look into the Futaba servo.
dkj-M3- I was thining more along the lines of the 57 because 200 oz/in is way more than you need in a ST.
cave- I should be out there around 5:30 or so. Races start at 7pm. Club races are just normal nights. Any normal race day is a "club race".
tallcracker
10-16-2003, 04:27 PM
has anyone had trouble with the screws stripping on the front bulkhead assembly? i really dont crash alot, hell i have only broken the battery box and 1 a arm, but i cant seem to keep these screws from stripping. thanks guys.
Got Speed
10-16-2003, 04:41 PM
I don't constantly strip them. I know if you use the RPM bumper it will cause them to strip much more easily. I usually strip one every 3 or 4 months. I wish Losi would make them so they have steel inserts like the other part.
tallcracker
10-16-2003, 05:01 PM
yeah, i would say mine last about 2 or 3 months if i had to guess. i try to keep them snug but not too tight, i am going to try to use CA and rethread it. i will see if that holds up worth a dam.
Casper
10-16-2003, 05:06 PM
Use longer screws. Put 3/4" screws in the four locations that put the front pivot block on the front bulkhead and you will not longer have this problem. I got this trick from the current IFMAR 4wd world champion Ryan Cavalieri! LOL The front two screws actually poke through the top a little but at least the screws stay put!
dkj-M3
10-16-2003, 10:16 PM
I had that problem, find the 7/8 4-40 (longer)screws. Put 2 on the bottom closest to the chassi part of the bumper, you can keep the front 2 stock screws. I have never stripped them since doing this.
oops Casper beat me to it.
tallcracker
10-16-2003, 11:27 PM
thanks guys
i will try that. i picked up a couple pair of tires to run with this winter. new bow ties, lug nuts, and losi step pins. then i also bought some new edge front tires and a pro line crowd pleazer body. also got a new battery box so i should be set. i am running on a slightly loose track with hard packed below the surface. i am hoping the lug nuts will get good traction because i think they will offer the longest wear. right now the bow ties are doing good, but are wearing out after 4 tanks. the fronts are lasting pretty much forever with very little wear. the step pins by losi seem to bite up the best, but they also are offering short wear. bow ties are getting better foward bite but less side stability, while the step pins are giving me less foward bite but equal side stability. the step pins are lasting longer then the bow ties, about 6-9 runs but i would still like to see atleast 2 weeks of racing, maybe 3 on a set of rears. i might try letting my slipper slide just a little more. for the above mentioned conditions what have yall had the best luck with concidering longevity and traction?
Casper
10-17-2003, 01:48 AM
I like Losi step pins for the best all around traction on loose stuff but if you need some tires that last longer you might want to try some soft Panther step pins. The denser pattern and the larger lug means they last longer. They have a little less traction then the losi step pins. They do last a lot longer though. If the conditions are on the dry side and there is not a lot of loose stuff on top you might also want to try a set of t-bones. They are a lot like bow ties but losi rubber tends to last longer. I have not tried the lug nuts but I have not hear good things about them so I have not bothered trying them yet. I tend not to like proline rubber on most tracks I race on. Hope this helps.
dkj-M3
I did the same thing, .875 on the rear of the kickplate. Stock on the front. I also check it every time I run it. This is only plastic or graphite. The longer threads seam to really help out.
cave
tallcracker
10-17-2003, 11:21 AM
thanks for the replies casper, i was always a big associated fan, so i have grown up using nothing but pro-line pretty much. i agree the losi step pins do work well, but i am willing to sacrifice a little traction for longevity. also proline has released that new r3 compound that is reported to allow tires to be run in some cases twice as long than the m3 with the same wear. after i get all the tires in and try them out i will post a full report on my findings. here in houston we hace on 4 or 5 different tracks so i can give you a broad review on how they perform in different conditions.
Casper
10-17-2003, 12:06 PM
I would like that. I have hear the R3 tires work well on clay tracks but not so hot on blue groove tracks. Losi and panther still have the right tires for those conditions. Even the AE/proline guys run losi tires on blue groove.
jdm3849
10-17-2003, 12:50 PM
After my encounters with the quarter pipe at the skatepark a screw broke off of the top deck at the front where it bolts onto the kickplate, one of the screws peice is in the kickplate (cant get out) and the other one is stripped. Should I just buy new stuff (I will hafta get blk. head, kickplate, and whatever else comes in the package) which seems like kind of a waste. Is there any temperary fixes?
I took my motor out, removed backplate and pullstart (did'nt know they weren't coiled with a big spring) the head and tried to take off the carburator(sp). I looked at the end of the crankshaft and it appears to be rusted, but everything else is nice and shiny, the top of the piston head is a kind of dull chrome with no dark spots. When i spin the flywheel there is like no resistance at TDC but the motor runs fine, holds a tune, and does not die. This is my first motor and I have had it for 1&1/2 years: do you think i have kept it running good by looking at the condition it is in?
Thanks
_Mike
Casper
10-17-2003, 01:02 PM
If you can get the bottom screw out you should be able to push the alum tube that has the broken screw in it out the top. You can then just replace the tube if you cannot get the screw out. This might be easier then replaceing all those other pieces since you would then need new tubes also. The package for the front kick plate only has two pieces in it. If you screwed up the bottom piece (which is what it sounds like) having an extra top piece in not so bad if you break a front ball stud or strip out your shock tower holes.
Got Speed
10-17-2003, 01:53 PM
cave, Casper, dkj-M3- Thanks I'll have to do that. My screws pulled out on my truck again. I had to CA them in to keep them from backing out. I ended up putting a 2.5mm screw in the bottom hole for the brake screws on the tranny. My standard screw pulled out and jammed my brake all up. I had to put the metric one in to keep it there. I think I'm going to leave it though becasuse it seems to have less slop. It's fits into the brake clips perfectly.
kombat88
10-17-2003, 03:41 PM
Hey Guys,
I posted a while back saying about how I was getting a XXXnt off of Ebay..well after the wait, my damned mail room finally picked it up..lol
Anywas first day I have it I check it all out take it outside and fire it up....run it for a bit and it turns out this one part on the front shocks was strriped so the shock kept coming off of the front arm. So i got that fixed ran it some more and decided to jump it a the skatepakr like a dumbass. Well to make a long story short, it landed hard and I broke the piece that holds the rear a arm on to the chassis. If anyone could tell me what the name of this part is that would rock because I have no manual, don't know much about these trucks yet, and I wanna fix it so I can run it around tonight cause this thing rocks.
Thanks alot!
Casper
10-17-2003, 03:51 PM
Here is a link to a manual on line http://www.teamlosi.com/Manuals/XXXntAD_index.htm
As for the part, it is called the rear pivot block. Losi make a stock plastic one, a graphite one and Trinity and a couple other companies make alum ones. I would get the alum one if you can afford it. The Trinity part number is TK5056 XXX-NT Rear Pivot Plate and the Losi part numbers are A-2114 Rear Pivot Block (XXX-NT) $3.50 for the plastic one and A-9832 Graphite/Composite Rear Pivot Block (XXX-NT) $6.00 for the graphite one.
Locus
10-17-2003, 04:26 PM
Yep, good idea to print up that manual. It will come in handy looking up part #'s, learning names of parts, etc.
kombat88
10-17-2003, 06:22 PM
Yeah
I actually did that already. Thought of that as soon as I posted that message..lol..I'm gonna pick up an aluminum pivot block at my LHS today afterwork and some other parts too and work on my truck tonight so it's a good thing i printed out that manual
kombat88
10-17-2003, 06:37 PM
Hey just one other question...for now..lol
My truck has a NitroStar .15 FE in it. I may buy naother engine tonight because I do plan on racing my truck in about two weeks so I want something faster.
I was wondering what engine will give me the best bang for the buck.
Plus my buddy has a GT thats an AE .15 in it, and I wanna smoke him so he'll shut his mouth about his truck..lol
kombat88 1st things first. Do you have a starter box? If not you need a pull start. I think the OS CVRX is the cvr with a pull start. I may be wrong cause I dont know much about OS. I have Trinity Aluminum Rear and front Pivot blocks. I havnt had a problem with them yet. I also got a Dynamite Battery Type box. I got the Orion 1100 rechargable battery. It seams to be a good set up. I havnt bent it YET.
GS I JUST GOT MY NEW MUGEN and yes I was shouting. YEA buddy!!!!!!!! I hope the one in the drake last a few more races. It ran real good last night. That can be a scarry thing with these little powerhouse motors. Typical 2 stroke Just when they run there best they dump Hey Got Speed Tony reserved the RV for the State. I may have to bring out the 8 mm. Do you got a digital camcorder?
cave
Got Speed
10-17-2003, 09:06 PM
kombat88- Like cave said. Do you have a starter box? All the better "race" engines are non-pull start. If you don't have a starter box or don't want to get one yet I would suggest either the OS .12CV-RX or from what I've heard the Fantoms are pretty good. If you get a starter box I would suggest a Mugen, RB, Collari, Picco, Novarossi, etc. Whatever you get you must make sure you get an engine with a standard shaft.
Got Speed
10-17-2003, 09:12 PM
Sorry I forgot.....
cave- Nice. Your not going to put it in for the state? Just going to keep it in case? What did you end up placing last night? I wish I could have actually raced. lol At least it happened now and not during the state. I got it working pretty much right after the first lap of the main was up last night. After that it ran fine. I was just kind of messing around last night, lol. Tony said you are going on tuesday? He said he would give you the diff and all for you to give to me. I won't be racing but I could make it out there. He said he would talk to you and let me know. I found a great deal on a 94357 servo for only $80! I'm going to try to get it as long as I can still afford tires for the state. lol. sorry for the long post.
I dont know if I'll make it on tuesday. I want to catch up on my workload during the week. What about Saturday? I'll be out @SRS.
Hey GS I still have that darn glitch. I bought that synthasized deal and it turns out that its probably a swich. Oh well it was on my list. Seams to be a tad faster too.
I was lurking in the Nitro forum and read something interesting. Too fat a condition will lead to premature wear on the piston. Man I thought if you ran a bit rich I would last longer. I think I found my happy medium. I'll do the same breakin on this new Mugen. Do you have the adrres to that OS Rocket and does he only pinch OS???
cave
Railman
10-18-2003, 12:09 AM
osrocket@neo.rr.com
This was his address a few month's ago.
Joe
dkj-M3
10-18-2003, 12:43 AM
he pinches everything & it is well worth it. my engine runs like new after I had it pinched.
Got Speed
10-18-2003, 08:41 AM
cave- Yeah. Tony said he would figure out something. That's the main reason the "old" break-in dosn't work. You run it so rich and the piston and sleeve don't expand properly so there is alot more friction. At least that is how I've heard it. I think mine runs great around 22-230. I don't run it 250 though because it will be running leaner for it's temp with the extra 2 cooling fins. Railman gave you the right email address. He squeezes all of them that I am aware of. I won't be out there saturday. I'm not going to be racing agian untill next friday.
I got this from OS rocket
This resizing is done on a very specialized cnc machine and sizes it at two levels and keeps the factory taper intact.
Here is some of the information about the piston/sleeves renew
It takes 2 to 6 days for me to turnaround, Prices are as follows:
First one 20.00
Second,third,fourth,etc 15.00 each one
Packing/Shipping back to you 5.00 usps. Priority mail w/ delivery conformation,
So if you have only one it would be 20.00 plus 5.00 shipping 25.00 total> jb
And two of them would be 20.00 plus 15.00 and 5.00 shipping 40.00 total> thanks
IF YOU ARE NOT INCLUDING MONEY ORDER OR CASH WITH THE PARTS MAKE SURE THAT YOU MARK DOWN PAYPAL PAYMENT NUMBER AND DATE< THANKS JB
One day service is 10.00 additional, up to 3 sets and 20.00 for 4 sets and up I have to put that fee in there because of the volume that I am currently receiving just to keep it manageable,
I tried doing it for no charge but everyone was wanting one day turnaround,
Thanks a lot< jb
NOTE IF YOU ARE REQUESTING ONE DAY SERVICE YOU MUST MARK THE OUTSIDE OF THE PACKAGE IN MAGIC MARKER.
Ship the piston/sleeves and you can leave the rod attached if you want to, along with a money order or you can paypal
The osrocket@neo.rr.com
send to:
John bohland
285 fox road
Lexington,ohio 44904
Thanks johnb
Also include a copy of your mailing address with the parts
And check out the September 2003 of r/c car, there is a 3 page article supporting this procedure,
jb
Hope this help who ever. Im gunna send mine as soon as it starts acting up.
cave
Got Speed
10-19-2003, 07:14 PM
cave- Do you already have tires? I got that 94357 servo for $80. I don't have a digital camcorder. I've got a camcorder but I can only put recordings on VHS tapes.
rccarman5
10-19-2003, 07:17 PM
how MM opening hsould i have on my rotary carb? when it's at idle? i have it at about 1.5 mm and it looks really wide, but cuts off if i try to decrease it. it ran before when teh hole was about 1mm but now it wont stay idling without it cutting unless i open the hole. my filter is not dirty. i had it with the venuri at 1mm then i went to replace the batteries in my radio and tried to start it with difficulty, could only start when i had it opened more.
Got Speed
10-19-2003, 07:38 PM
rccarman5- If your truck dosn't move at idle when you put it on the ground then you shouln't worry about the idle being to high. If it stalls from leaving it at idle too long it could be a too rich low end.
Casper
10-19-2003, 08:19 PM
I just took some pictures of my Gas truck with it's new body. I really like the looks and the thickness of the crowd pleazer body! This was body was only used once at the Reedy truck race.
Casper
10-19-2003, 08:21 PM
I also attached a picture of the HPI braces I installed on the rear shock tower to help keep the tower from breaking.
rccarman5
10-19-2003, 08:55 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
rccarman5- If your truck dosn't move at idle when you put it on the ground then you shouln't worry about the idle being to high. If it stalls from leaving it at idle too long it could be a too rich low end.
no it stalls because the idle is too low, the low end doesn't do anything. well ti does, but after a while it will load up with fuel if it's too rich, but thats not the problem, i was concerned because the barrel seems too open, about 1.5 mm. seems a lil too large wouldnt' u say?if i had a digi i would take pics. but i will have to try it later.
Twist 2 Go
10-19-2003, 09:18 PM
Casper, do you know the part # for the HPI braces you added? Nice mod.
Casper
10-19-2003, 10:39 PM
I do not have the part number right now but I will get it. I keep forgetting to look up the number at the hobby store when I get there. I want to post this mod on my web site shorly also.
Casper are the Crowd Pleaser bodies alittle thicker than the Losi bodies? Looks good. Great Idea for extra protection!!!. My new body is all tore up. Paper thin. Then again I am a tad hard on it:D
Got Speed I got the siver for the front on Saturday. SRS didnt have the Red T200 or the tapers. so Ill have to pick them up this week. My Mugen finally needs to be replaced. It still runs aweson. It has very little compression. A few guys at the track felt it and couldnt belive it still holds an idel. I broke the new one in and Ill install it tonight. Ill do a rolling breakin now. That track is so challenging. The 8th scale track is off Southern and Roosevelt in Tempe. Im going to check it out in a month when the track is up. The have indoor 10th scale running now. Seems like we just got aa great addition to the neighborhood:D A new place to race that Mini Losi??? Later GS See ya friday Scott says Practice Friday Till 8 PM We're gunna bring lights so we can practice later.
cave
Casper
10-20-2003, 11:05 AM
Pro-line bodies are thicker then losi bodies. You can tell they are lots stiffer and they are harder to cutout!
Got Speed
10-20-2003, 11:07 AM
Casper- That's a nice body. What engine is that? Picco? Orion?
cave- The PL bodys are thicker. I keep buying the Losi one though because I love the way it looks. lol Their going to have that 8th track up in only a month. I'll have to go check it out. Emmet isn't going to like the competition. lol What are you going to get T-2000s or Taper Pins? It looks like Scott canceled on-road racing friday then so all the State champ guys can practice. lol. See you friday.
Casper
10-20-2003, 11:10 AM
The engine is an Orion Wasp side exhaust rotary carb with the optional 10 fin head.
kombat88
10-20-2003, 02:30 PM
Well, after having my XXXNT for a few days, I must say this truck kicks ass.
Aside from a busted pivot block, bent turnbuckle, a stripped out shock end (which was like that when I got it), and a bent hinge pin (think that one came from the death defying leap at the skate park that also took the life of the pivot block) I've had alot of fun with it.
The only problem I have now is that my brake catches as soon as I let off of the throttle and makes an odd whirring sound while it's running. I'm thinking I may have to rebuild the tranny because when I got this truck I could tell the person who had it before didn't take very good care of it.
I'm trying to get it ready for the races on the weekend of the 31st over here.Some hobby shop is having it's off road championships and I wanna win it..lol.
So i figure when I buy a new engine the day before the race..spend all night tuning my truck I should be all good.
I've decided I'm gonna go with an OS engine..it's not to expensive..I've never heard anything bad about em yet..and my LHS has em cheap.
Just wondering though has anyone ever heard of the brake problem I'm having? :confused: Thanks
kombat88
Seams Like its draggin a bit. There are two ways to adjust it. #1 Witht the servo horn. If your servo is at its end point It wont far enough to engage the brake so some people move the coller to far back. #2 adjust the collers on the brake line or bar whatever you call it. It should roll when your off the throttle then brake when your brake. It takes some time to get it dialed in be patient. You might get lucky and get it rite the 1st time.
GS Alittle good compitition only makes it good for us all. Your rite He wont like it.
cave
Got Speed
10-21-2003, 01:18 AM
cave- Are you thinking about going there instead? The only bad thing I think could come of mroe competition is that there will be smaller gas truck races at both tracks. Otherwise it should be all good.
Not at this time. i'm not a fan of 8th scale yet. I like my Drake. I like racing it too. I dont think that they are going to take any of the 10th scale racing away from SRS. The peps that race 8th scale will prolly race there instead. The cost of 8th scale is a bit over the top for me with all my other stuff. Maybe now they at SRS will open a class for the cactus for nitro. Maybe not. But at least we have a place to go when Its all going on. Im not much at spectating. Thats why I dont stay home and watch football or baseball. I participate. I'll stop by the new track as its only a few miles away from my house. Who knows? Maybe the owners of the new place will be as cool as Scott and start a class for 10th scale nitro offroad. I feel friendly compition is good. Besides It used to be safe at SRS to leave your pit stuff out in the open and everyone would watch out for each other. Now people are getting ripped off! Heaven couldnt help the person that I caught swippin my personal stuff!!!! Cops couldnt get there fast enough if they were across the street~!To bad there isnt a designated area that was off limits to spectaters like other racing type events. Maybe this Action Hobbies place will listen to us racers and be a step ahead of the rest GS. That would be cool!!!
cave
Got Speed
10-21-2003, 11:33 AM
I'm pretty sure they will open a 1/10 class too. There arn't enought 1/8 guys to get just 1/8 racing started. If it is nice I might go ever there from time to time. It's a long way from my house though. Do you have any idea how big it will be? Most 1/8 scale tracks I've raced on are alot of fun because of their size. That would be nice if Scott added 1/10 nitro to the cactus but I doubt it because it goes from 9 in the morning into the evening on Friday, Saturday, Sunday. It would be great if he did though. Yeah, there has been alot of things being stolen since the Cactus. This one guy said he even got his M8 and a few batterys stolen from him.
Ive Had a few things taken I think. little stuff like the spring from my ignighter. I lost a new battery pack there but I think I left it on the light post. I mised racing last night cause I got off work at 5 and sat in traffic till 7 30 pm. SRS is on my way home. was pissed but I got opver it. I got the new Mugen in now. Its got to be drivin. I will race thursday!!!!. see ya friday GS
Got Speed
10-22-2003, 08:04 PM
cave- Cool. Do you like the big head mugen more? I bought that 94357 servo for $80. I got it today. It's real nice. So fast. I put my HS-625MG in throttle and that works really well too. It is able to clamp the brakes down alot easier and faster. I don't think it will be such a pain constantly adjusting my brakes any more. I'll probably have to dial some of it out. I got the problem with my brake all fixed I was having thursday too. I got a new bulkhead and I'm putting the longer screws in it. I think I'm all set. I just need to get fuel and tires still friday :eek: I hate waiting till the last minute like this, hehe. Anyway if you managed to read through all that I'll be there about 6ish on friday. Is tony going to bring his grill? If not, I'll bring mine. We might go up to Albertsons friday and get some steaks.
rccarman5
10-22-2003, 09:21 PM
which race track is this exactly?
SRS In Scotsdale AZ.
yea I think he is bringing the grill. Is the whole family going to camp out with ya?
Because of work Im going to have ta buy gas at the last minute too. I hope They still have tires and fuel. I got to find time to mail my Old mugin in to OSRocket.
Last Minute ha ha ha . thats the truth. So much for boy scout...
cave
Got Speed
10-23-2003, 02:20 AM
cave- Nope. Just me and my dad are going to be out there. LOL last minute alright. The day I need them. hehe
Cool I think me and Tony are racing tonight. That is if he didnt miss his flite from Vegas. My niece is in the hospital have a baby so that may sway me from racing too. I really need to break the motor in on the truck now. I like the big cooling head. I had to shave the body to get it to fit. later
cave
Got Speed
10-23-2003, 09:33 AM
cave- If you see Tony tell him that I will still do his diff for him. The only way I can do it though is before he starts practicing tommorow or after he is done practicing tommorow. I'm going up to Prescott right now so I can't get it today.
Xx_RICHARD_xX
10-24-2003, 08:42 PM
well I just thought I might post some good news!! However I hate to brag on it.
I had productive running today. I finally got the OS carb on the picco and tuned in right. (that was PITA) I got all the suspension fixed up good ant tight. I had a small crash with a WFO dead reciver battery and a truck tire. Now I have an aluminum fron bulkhead:D Got it all back together and finally diald in. I ran it today for a couple of tanks and the truck did fantastic. Ran real good and I don't have a temp gauge but I was running slightly richer than normal. It made great power and never got hot enought to really sizzle spit. I think the Picco just runs better at a slightly lower temp. Mine seems to anyway. All in all a good day of driving. Now I am going to try and get to the track. Have fun you guys....
dkj-M3
10-25-2003, 10:29 PM
Casper did you get the part # for the HPI braces yet. I'm gonna try them out. nice mod
Casper
10-26-2003, 12:17 AM
I am going to the hobby shop tomorrow and will get the number then.
Saboteur
10-26-2003, 01:06 PM
Hey all. The 50wt shock oil in my stock sport nt works well. Its not stiff at all and provides great handling both onroad and dirt. Ofcourse with the sandy type of soil it slides all over when I go past 1/4th throttle. Finally burnt out my first glow plug :D. Slapped in a megatech #3 plug and away I went. The carb still overheats and only stopped me from running 2 times. Wasnt that much of a prob;just let it sit in the cool breeze for 2mins. Bought an ofna fuel bottle for $4 which can hold more fuel than my megatech bottle, despite the fact that both are 250cc. Anyway I didnt get to test the sidewinder fuel as yet but will during the next run. The mach .15 really impressed me with the easy start up and seemed faster than the last time I ran it. Got over a foot of air and jumped a length of 10ft when I hit a bump of grass. The NT took a real beating but show no signs of damage. Great fun, great day, great car.:cool:
Casper
10-26-2003, 11:28 PM
dkj-M3-- The part number for the brace is HPI 72285 Arm brace 3X30 silver (alulminum) $3.00
You have to drill the middle hole out and then attach it to the tower with the middle hole and the outside one with a screw and nut. Then drill through the inside hole through the tower and stick a screw and nut through there and then put the shock on the outside. If you want to run other shock positions then you can just take the brace off since it is really only needed when running the outside hole anyway.
dkj-M3
10-27-2003, 08:26 AM
thx Casper
Got Speed, Tony's trophy is Killer. He TQ for his race and got a cool trophy. and the 2nd place one he got is cool too. I got a digi photo of him with it. What a late night!
I dont like running on that dry track at all. Tires and rims are expensive.
I got two semi new ones from my main LOL. Cant wait to run @ SRS on the wet stuff again. I got to replace the front shock tower and A arm and a few other things that I havent seen yet... Man I drive rough. It was a fun but costly weekend of racing. sure glad its only once a year.
cave
this was a tough weekend for me. I did so well in the qualifing stage. I expected to race in the d main but made it to the b main. Not to big a feat to most of you but to me its a big step. I broke on a bone head manuver. I got to close to the dreaded pipe demon. Its tough out there on concrete here is a pic of our trucks. Mines the broken # 7, Got Speeds truck is above mine # 8 Tony's is #9 & buggy #2 He TQ with the buggy. frenchy is #4 Troys nitro coors silver color car #2 and last and always least Mullens Buggy #8 below my Nitro. Sure was fun but Im glad its only once a year...
Sorry picture too lage to lad here
cave
Did anyone race the Golden State Champs at Showtime Speedway?
Just realised I havent posted on here much, but so far my Drake has ran so well without any problems I havent needed to ask anything!
One little thing though, do you any of you find that the front wheels move from side to side on the axles slightly? Its certainly enough to notice. Normally I would think its wear but mines only 4 races old. I have both bearings in place with the spacer and the shim.
ross check you axle carrier. Mine was 6 months old before I changed them on sunday. There was a lot of play. I thought my bearings were shot. It was my carrier. Take your tire off and wiggle the axle and see if it moves. The new one has just a tad bit of play. My old one wiggled about a 1/16 of an inch. No bueno.
cave
Got Speed
10-28-2003, 10:47 AM
cave- Yeah. It was alot of fun but like you said expensive especially with all the tires and wheels. I'm going to be out there again on the the 8th of November. I'm looking at an M8 I'm going to try and get on ebay. I hope I can also get the pipe for my T-Maxx so I can race it next time too.
Got Speed In all the excitment I foregot to thank your Pops! Thanks Richard!!! Good luck on the M8. I like the one I got. Makes a difference for racing. I would never of picked one up for bashin. I must of gained 10 Lbs this weekend. Everyone fed me. That guy with the lowprofile Tmax trucks had some awesome chili. I had 4 bowls. Not to mention the Mcdees breakfast and the Bar B q. and troys tortilla soup and and and. You get the picture heh. I havnt put that servo in yet. I should of got the faster one like yours but I dont have a problem with speed. I hope Mayfield is right. I'll roost the #$#&*#^ out of him when I see him Riding.
cave
Got Speed
10-29-2003, 09:47 AM
cave- I don't think you will have a problem with the servo you got. It is about the same torque/speed as the one I have. I don't think it would help it at all if it were faster. I've got to decide what I'm going to get right now. lol I'm not sure if I'm going for the M8 or the stuff to finish off my T-Maxx. Either way I'll probably get them both by the end of the year. LOL yeah there was alot of food out there. Dennys, Steaks, Hot Dogs, Donuts, Mcds, ...... lol
krtcobaine
10-29-2003, 08:29 PM
Can anyone help me find a losi part #a-2927 in something other than the vinyl gear that it calls for, I keep shearing that gear and I am wanting to try some aluminum in there. Thanks....:confused: :confused:
your slipper is not adjusted properly! look back a few pages were Got speed goes thru the whole rigamaro on this subject. He goes into great detail on this. You slipper should slip before your diff gear does.
cave
krtcobaine
10-29-2003, 09:29 PM
I did have the diff adjusted properly, I have been beatin it like a hound for a few weeks, yesterday it let out a screach and that was it. Tonight I took the rear apart and the inside gear is as smooth as the front tires.. Its wasted, I want to put aluminum in there, I had already changed to differential gear to aluminum and now want them all to be changed!!!:D
dkj-M3
10-29-2003, 09:41 PM
the aluminum gear is probably what killed it, if it's built & adj right you should have no problems with the plastic gears. the aluminum will just cause something else to break. It would be a lot easier to change the idler gear than the diff tho.
I think the only alu gears they make are the diff & slipper shaft. I haven't heard of a metal idler gear.
forgot to mention you need to check your diff before every run, It can loose it's setting, after running for a while.
Got Speed
10-30-2003, 10:01 AM
krtcobaine- If you diff and slipper are set right you shouldn't be stripping gears at all unless you got a little peice of gravel in there or something.
WHITESTER1
10-30-2003, 02:56 PM
Anyone here running the RB V12? If so, are you using the Drake pipe, what is the measurement of the gap between the header and pipe? I'm trying to find the "sweet spot".. Thanks!
WHITESTER1
10-30-2003, 09:09 PM
Anyone know the exact size in Millimeters what 55 & 56 piston holes are?
I'm hoping one of them is 1.4 mm.
krtcobaine I run a Mt 12 in mi Drake And I do run hard. If my slipper is out I burn up diffs. There is a sweet spot that can handle the Mugen or RB power plants. you just have to find it then stay ontop of it. You say your diff was OK. If that were the case you would still have a solid diff. The steal one or Aluminum one you want to put in will slow you down a tad. Not really noticable if your just bashin. you just break something other than your diff. Maybe your motor. Some things got to give. On mine Its my Spur gear.
good luck
cave
Casper
10-30-2003, 11:53 PM
#56 is 1.1811mm
#55 is 1.3208mm
check out this web site for more information. The pistion hole sizes are the same as the drill bit sizes.
http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm
WHITESTER1
10-31-2003, 08:41 AM
Thank you! I was trying to find it on my own, but no luck.
kombat88
10-31-2003, 01:08 PM
well I finally got (ordered neways) my inital hop ups for my xxxnt..woohoo
Picked up an aluminum pivot block (breakin a plastic one once was enough), graphite front and rear arms, stuff to rebuild my clutch because a screw loose and tore the hell out of my original one, stuff some guy on a message board used to rebuild his diff to make it tougher (if it was someone on this board i forgot yer name...sorry bout that), and a Fantom FR12 03 engine. I'm just hoping I get this stuff quick because the off road championships for a track around here is next weekend and I wanna get my truck in there because I've asked around over here (hawaii) and not too many people run losi. The bad thing is they wouldn't let me race with the engine thats on my truck already. It's a .15 Nitro Star FE. Maybe thats good though because that thing is slow.
kombat88
dont forget to have fun while you race
cave
Got Speed
10-31-2003, 03:57 PM
Is anyobody going to the Nitro Challenge at The Dirt in Hemet CA? I finally found the dates(Jan. 30, 31, and Feb 1). I'm hoping to make it out there probably on thursday.
Casper
10-31-2003, 04:00 PM
I am 50-50 on going right now. I need to feed some growth hormones to the old money tree so I can afford to go. The neat thing about that race is you only need one set of tires and any parts you end up breaking. It is a great race though. The put on a VERY good show at The Dirt! The Dirt girls are nice to look at between rounds also!:eek:
kombat88
10-31-2003, 08:38 PM
heh
cave...fun is the whole point for me at least
i have a blast driving my truck around
Saboteur
10-31-2003, 09:41 PM
I'm just wondering, what would be faster/more powerful: a picco .12rc speed or the fantom Fr12? I'm thinking of buying one and using in in the Neo TNT and Losi NT. Otherwise if I can, I'll just buy the Picco .12xp RE Bruckner is advertising for $99.99!
Got Speed
10-31-2003, 09:55 PM
I need to feed some growth hormones to the old money tree so I can afford to go.
Casper- LMK where to get some. I could use some. hehe The single set of tires is nice. It more than makes up for the $50 race fee. Do you know if you get a discount for aditional classes?
Originally posted by Saboteur
I'm just wondering, what would be faster/more powerful: a picco .12rc speed or the fantom Fr12? I'm thinking of buying one and using in in the Neo TNT and Losi NT. Otherwise if I can, I'll just buy the Picco .12xp RE Bruckner is advertising for $99.99!
Get the picco, I know someone who had a FR12 in his NT and he sold it because the low end power was crap.
Casper
11-01-2003, 10:18 AM
I am not certain there is a discount for a second class but there is for every other race I have ever attended. There should at least be a $10 difference. I cannot find the old flier. I will have to see if I have it at work still and let you know what they did last year. The only other classes then 10th truck are monster truck and 1/8th scale. They ran 10th and monster truck Qual all
Fri, 1/8th qual all Sat and mains were all day Sun.
Got Speed
11-01-2003, 10:46 AM
I emailed them and they sent me the new flier within 2 hours. It dosn't say anything about a second class. I'll probably just run my truck. If you want I could email it to you?
Casper
11-01-2003, 03:48 PM
That would be great. nielsen_d@yahoo.com
Thanks
Saboteur
11-01-2003, 08:46 PM
So I guess others would recommend the picco .12rc speed over the fantom? :confused:
crackerjack
11-02-2003, 12:14 AM
I have a Picco in my XXX-NT. I like it and it runs well. My only problem was the lever breaking off the carb and Trinity's lack of customer service. My Dad has a Fantom in his truck. It's an 02 and initially it ran well. Then it started acting like the pison and sleeve were shot after about 1 1/2 gallons. He called up Fantom and they replaced the piston and sleeve for free and threw on an 03 style carb for $15. No that's how you keep customers happy.
rccarman5
11-02-2003, 01:19 AM
your radio needs to be set right, if u dont have end point adjustments on ur radiok install a spring at the end to prevent it from over opening the carb
Xx_RICHARD_xX
11-02-2003, 10:48 AM
Saboteur,
I have a picco in my losi truck also. I love it! my carb broke at the throttle lever and I got an adapter so I could change the carb over to an OS carb. That fixed it. The OS carb is a little finickey on the picco but I finally got it dialed in and it starts good and runs great every time now. I did not even notice a power loss.
rccarman5
11-02-2003, 01:13 PM
Hey guys, i was wondering if the shock bodies ever wear out? the insides? does the hard anodizing ever wear out? if so how often do they show wear(scraping of the anodizing) or the pistons? thanks.
i have old associated shocks from a rc10 grapite and i think i was running them w/o oil so it messed them up(the ano) because it was my first car and i was about 10 not knowing anything.
kombat88
11-02-2003, 03:52 PM
I was reading somewhere on the internet that the 02 Fantoms had a ABSC (sc =silicone carbide) piston setup and sleeve setup rather ABC. They switch back to ABC for the 03's because the ABSC was really finnicky on getting it to break in.
Saboteur
11-02-2003, 04:13 PM
Sounds great all. Thnx for the replies. I've tried the Sidewinder fuel in my Neo TNT first. Ran great but stripped 1st gear again. In the NT, it didnt overheat (not even the carb) plus I noticed an increase in performance. I ran it straight for over an hr! Spent a total of 2 hrs romping with it outside. I wont worry bout a new engine as yet but will be stocking up on parts for now. :)
rccarman5
11-02-2003, 08:34 PM
Originally posted by rccarman5
Hey guys, i was wondering if the shock bodies ever wear out? the insides? does the hard anodizing ever wear out? if so how often do they show wear(scraping of the anodizing) or the pistons? thanks.
i have old associated shocks from a rc10 grapite and i think i was running them w/o oil so it messed them up(the ano) because it was my first car and i was about 10 not knowing anything.
bump
winning edge designs
11-02-2003, 10:24 PM
rccarman, Yes, they wear out. It's a little hard to tell sometimes, unless you do a close inspection using light/flashlight, etc. You will see shiny spots inside, it'll look like silver spots. I find the shokc shafts wear about 2 shafts to a shock body, usually. That is after wearing two nitride shafts down to the silver metal, replace the entire shock. Rears also seem to wear faster then fronts.
someone earlier was asking about aluminum compound gears? I noticed he posted he was running an aluminum diff gear...which is the problem with the stripping compound gear.....or did I miss the response to that? :).
btw, XXX-Nt's finished 1st and 2nd at the second annual(?) Gas Championships today in Tampa Florida(former Winterchamps track)!.....(Ryan Eckert won 1/8th and gas truck!).....Jim
rccarman5
11-02-2003, 10:48 PM
but i have about 2 gallosn through my car and i dont drive hard at all, mostly up and down the street. so i shouldn't expect that much wear yet. or any at all? wat abotu the pistons, do those wear out fast also
Damifudo
11-03-2003, 08:53 AM
I have tried to adjust the diffs on my XXXNT but I can not seem to get it so it will not spin out with anything more than 1/4 throttle. I a worried if I loosen it anymore it will burn up? Is this thing always going to be touchy to drive and want to spin out? What can I do to get this thing to handle better? I am running hole shots on the rear which are very soft and have great traction and I have a OS .12 CVRX Motor. I have my slipper set pretty loose and I can feel it slip if I get hard on the throttle. I did this to help protect the diff which I have set as loose as I feel safe doing. Whats the trick setting this car up?
Got Speed
11-03-2003, 10:21 AM
Damifudo- A really loose diff won't fix the problem. It is probably your tires. What surface are you running on? Are you sure you arn't hitting the throttle alot as you begin to exit a turn?
Scarab RC
11-03-2003, 06:38 PM
I really don't think it's his tires. It breaks free once the power kicks in, abruptly and without warning. On a straight-away if you "gun it" from 1/4 throttle it will 180. I didn't ask him if it always spins to the right or left side. If it always spins to the left or right then that might help diagnose the problem. It drives like it has little to no diff action going on and more like Posi rear traction. But he has loosened it to the point where he doesn't want to anymore. Could it be bad bearings? Could his slipper clutch be set too loose that when it finally loads up it's catching all at once? Just throwing stuff out here but it's not the tires.
Scarab
Casper
11-03-2003, 07:06 PM
I would say a tigher diff would help more with staight line traction. If the diff is too loose one tire will unload and this will cause the car to spin out. I would check the main tranny bearings. (the large ones on the outdrives) and check the rear hub bearings. Also make sure you did not loose a wheel pin. I would try and tighten the diff a little. Holeshots work anywhere so that really should not be the problem. Also check the ride hieght. Make the arms level or just below level. A loose diff helps in the corners but can hurt in straight line acceleration.
Scarab RC Question, What Motor you running? What clutch bell you running Whats your shock settup? what Oil in your shocks? Helps out so we can help you.
Now
I've had the same problem. Right now Im having that problem again. Here are a few things too check on.
#1. Are the tires in good shape. I can only run Hole Shots for one race then there done. Thats a 5 minute race. They become Racing slicks quick
#2 is your slipper adjusted correctly for your drivin style? Your slipper should slip before your diff does. I keep mine tight But I had the same problem. I'd give it alittle throttle and round she'd go. I still need to adjust it a bit. Once you find the spot, its easy to fine tune it for track conditions.
#3 As Casper stated above. Is the pin that locks the rim to the shaft in place? If its there, is your slot in the rim in good condition?
#4 Are your dog bones OK? If one is broke this would also cause you to spin out.
#5 This happen to me Saturday night @ SRS. Is your top brace that holds your gas tank in place in its correct position? I cartwheeled off another truck and didnt notice that my top plate had popped one of the screws out and accually shifted. The part that sits in the middle was on the top. This caused me to spin out badly even when I gave it a tap of throttle. I wis I had a pic cause this was the darndest thing that has ever happen to me racing.
There is more But lets start with these Scarab RC
cave
Damifudo
11-03-2003, 09:54 PM
Scarb is helping me with my Losi XXXNT RR. Shock oil is 25 weight rear 30 in front. Engine is OS .12 CVRX. Hole shots are in good shape not worn out yet. I have not raced them on a hard track. I set the slipper loose so it would slip on hard acceleration . I think the diff is set as loose as possible with out slipping. I have checked no bad Bearings or bad wheels or missing pins. Spins out both directions. I think some of the problem is how light the car is and how much power it produces. It drives straight on hard throttle but if you touch the steering around she comes. Thanks for any help you can give me.:confused:
Casper
11-03-2003, 10:51 PM
I would put the Drake Dirt setup on the truck and what front tires are you running. If you have too much steering this will happen also.
dkj-M3
11-03-2003, 11:44 PM
As casper said that can happen if you have too much steering. Try running your front arms level or just below level. You can gage it by the inner & outer hinge pins. Raising the front makes it turn-in quicker, lowering the front makes it turn-in slower. It will make it seem smoother not as jerky. If that doesn't help, use drakes new standard set-up or the slick track set-up.
Also, do you have a slide or rotary carb? How are your rear arms set, level, above level or below level? & what springs are you running?
Damifudo, Are you Bashin or racing? What is the surface that your running on? Loose dirt or Hardpacked dirt? Have you tryed feathering your throttle finger?
This truck is light and when powered by some of the .12 out there can be slippery. You have to find that spot on you radio. Ive gone thru a lot of advice from here on the same deal and found out it was more of my drivin style than problems with my Losi. One of the fast guys drove it ans he was flawless. My truck was fastand stable. Sometimes it takes some patience. Get to know your limits then grow into the power. there are things you can try like tunin your radio's end points down so you dont get full throttle. This really help me drive better. Try other tires for the rear and front. Casper & dkj-M3 are both correct when it comes to front tires and front end tention. I ride real low and I seam to handle better off the turns But the trade off is No tight stearing. Kinda of sluggish. My front arms are just under level. If you put a ruler from end to end there is 1/16" space. There is alot more things you can do but first try the Drake set up mentioned above. I personally would try different tires. in the rear. But if thats whats working on the tracks you run on then what do I know. I run on concrete hard dirt. Hole shots work for around 10 laps then start to fade. I run a Mugen MT .12 with a slide carb and Its a hand full for me. Good luck
cave
dkj-M3
11-04-2003, 10:00 AM
Here's a clip of gas truck at CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/) for the holloween trophy race this past Sat.
http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/KJ.wmv
thx for the vid Whitester, I like the slow motion over the double triples, but what happened to the six-million-dollar-man bionic sounds fx.lol:D
Scarab RC
11-04-2003, 11:00 AM
Sweet Video. What type of surface is that? Is that indoor Nitro?
About Damifudo's problem. What about throttle linkages? Maybe it's not a smooth transition from low to WOT. That make break the tires loose. I'm going to tear it down with him this weekend.
Scarab
Casper
11-04-2003, 11:20 AM
Yes the linkage setup can be cause for non linear throttle action. You might need to rotate the carb in the case to make sure everthing lines up properly. Just something to look at. Slide carbs tend to make the bottom end less controlable. Rotary carbs tend to be a little more controlable.
dkj-M3
11-04-2003, 12:24 PM
Scarab RC- Yes it's indoor nitro, I race there in the winter, you guys are lucky to race outdoors all year long. It's weird, it's not a blue groove, it's smooth as a baby's skin, soft to the touch. It's almost like playdough. we run scrubbed down pink tapers & pink scrubbed 8ribs or scrubbed directionals. New tires don't work. I can get away with running one pair of tires for about 2 months 8 races before they are no good. That I like.
Casper
11-04-2003, 12:34 PM
I think you are lucky. I would love to be able to race indoor gas. I like clay tracks a lot more since they do not wear out your stuff as bad. Outdoor "dirt" tracks tend to abuse chassis and the rough stuff wears out arms and things faster. Outdoor racing can be fun but I would prefer that the 1/8th scale track changers would stay away.
dkj-M3
11-04-2003, 12:44 PM
your right about the wear Casper, I completely rebuilt my truck before that race & you could hardly tell it had been raced, thx to an air compressor, I raced at a loamy outdoor track the very next day & it looks like my truck went through a war zone.:eek:
Casper
11-04-2003, 12:51 PM
I rebuilt my truck one time before a race and the first qualifier they soaked the track. There were puddles everywhere! My truck came back with about 3lbs. of mud on it. What a drag. The problem was I needed to clean the whole thing again since the next race was the Reedy truck race and the extra dirt was not going to cut it for blue groove racing! :mad: Oh well that if offroad right!
kombat88
11-04-2003, 11:05 PM
hey guys
it's me again with one of my many questions...
would be a wise idea to rebuild my tranny with an aluminum slipper shaft/gear, monster diff adj. screw set, Hardened aluminum diff gear from robinson, alloy diff nut from hg?
Some dude said he did it to his XXXNT RTR and that it helped it out. I'm only asking because i got my new enigine today (a fantom FR .12 rear exhaust) and i figured i might as well do it while I have it apart
thanks alot once again guys
Saboteur
11-04-2003, 11:06 PM
Agreed, great video! I cant wait for the day I'll race at an offroad track and race again at an onroad track. :D
dkj-M3
11-04-2003, 11:15 PM
I only run the stock losi tranny parts, I've tried the aluminum top shaft, which will give you a slight amout more torque. You don't really need the hardened aluminum diff gear from robinson or alloy diff nut from hg (losi upgraded there diff nut & it doesn't strip out anymore. The stock losi gears work just fine. I had problems with it at 1st, but I didn't have it adj right. Once I figured it out, I've had no problems with it since. just make sure your slipper slips before the diff.
kombat88
11-05-2003, 03:21 AM
cool...that makes gettin my truck ready a little easier
i dont wanna sound dumb but how do i make sure the slipper slips before the diff?
komba88
Monster Diff: The new “monster” differential designed for the NT will handle the extreme power of nitro motors. However, like all other differentials, it is not a slipper device. This new unit is designed to have not only greater power handling capabilities but also a broader range of adjustment. As with any differential, start by adjusting it per the instructions. The most reliable method of adjustment requires that you first lock up the slipper by tightening it until the spur gear won’t move without ripping the flesh from your hand. Grab the spur gear tightly between your thumb and first finger while cradling and holding the right rear tire firmly between your forearm and chest. Now try to turn the left rear tire forward. If it turns at all tighten the diff 1/8 turn and test again. When the diff stops turning and starts jumping and locking again (often referred to as chirping or barking) requiring substantial twisting of the rear tire it’s at the beginning of its useful adjustment range. Most of the pro’s run their diff on the right side but you should be able to find your “sweet spot” by gradually adjusting it tighter.
I copied this from Losi's Web site. Your slipper (Metal disks around your Spur gear) should slip before your Diff does.
kombat88 here is the tech site from Losi. Check it out
click here (http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/nttips.htm)
cave
kombat88
11-05-2003, 12:14 PM
woohoo
thanks alot cave
No problem kombat88. there is also the Adam Drake's web site but I cant remember the link I think its drake.net
Im not sure bout that 1
cave
Casper
11-05-2003, 01:39 PM
Yes adams site is http://www.thedrake.net/ . They have a link to it from team losi's site now also.
dkj-M3
Hows the ventalation work at that track? me and my nephew tryed to get permits to open an indoor track here so we would be out of the heat. The cities didnt want to deal with those permits. Looks pretty cool.. Wow that would be so cool. No sun on the back, blistering skin, sunscreen getting in the eyes causing me to take out the mashals ankle. he he he he.
cave
dkj-M3
11-05-2003, 02:35 PM
From what I hear, it is always hard to get permits for indoor nitro in a city, that's why all the ones I know have them in small towns outside the city. I guess I am lucky. We have 3, well 2.5 right now, that are within an hrs. drive from me. the .5 one is about 10min from my house, it's new, with a lot of new racers, so it's kinda rough around the edges, with the program. I have been trying to help them get it going. But the problem now is that a group of bmx guys tried to take it over. They dumped a L-O-T of dirt on the rc track there, without anyones knowledge or permission. It's just a lot of BS that's going on now, too deep to go into.
Here's what's left of the track it's a huge building, notice the cop kicking the bmx guy out.
http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/oddsn/xdome1.JPG http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/oddsn/xdome2.JPG
cave the crcrc building is a pole barn, you can pretty much slide most of the walls back, to make it very much open. They have a fan pulling in air from the pit side & blowing out by the track side. They have 3 huge propane heaters when it gets real cold, stand in front & it will warm you up real quick. It's also useful to warm the tires & shock oil before the race, lol.
The other track is Planet RC raceway (http://www.planetrcraceway.com/) , which skipgear just told me BK will be coming to visit along with some other guys. If they do show, it will put the planet on the map.
Got Speed
11-05-2003, 03:40 PM
cave- Like you said they are hard to get but not impossible. There is an indoor go-cart track in southwest phoenix. It is a big place with 4 or 5 industrial fans built into one wall. Are you going racing saturday?
dkj-M3- That would be nice. We have had BMX guys mess up our track before by riding on it just after it was built but we havn't had any trouble with people dumping dirt off.
Scarab RC
11-05-2003, 05:11 PM
This is going back to the Damifudo question about the differential. I would love one of you guys (or girls) to explain to me the correlation between the slipper clutch and the differential on a XXX-NT. These are two separate entities that do not rely on one another to work. They are independent from one another. So why does everyone on this forum act like one has to do with the other? I'm just very confused about this whole thing and anything you can do to explain this to me would be great and would also help me in fixing his ride.
Sincerely,
A Throughly Confused Scarab
Casper
11-05-2003, 05:35 PM
You are wrong to think they have nothing to do with each other. They are all part of what makes the transmission of the car work. The purpose of the slipper is the save the transmission from impact forces from bumps jumps and sudden stops. The slipper takes the strain off the differential and the tranny gears by slipping. Thus the name slipper clutch. If the slipper clutch is set too tight the next weakest link in the tranny is the differential since this is also a friction bases assembly. The ball differential works off the theory that the slipping friction is more then the rolling friction of the balls in the main gear. The friction against the diff balls slipping on the diff rings is what allows the car to go forward. If the friction between the diff balls and the diff rings is not enough and the balls slip on the rings you will do too things. You will flat the balls or groove the rings. Since the rings are softer then the balls the diff rings usually end up being damaged which helps in creating a gritty diff. If the diff is slipping a lot you get a large buildup of heat in the diff also and this is what causes the gear to melt. The gear will not melt if the diff is not slipping. Now in order to run the diff looser and help it work better you have a slipper clutch that can be set to always "give" before the differential slips. Because the extra power that would cause the diff to slip is being dissapated by the slipper clutch giving this keeps the diff in one piece. So the slipper clutch really does two things. It can be used for traction (which is probably why you thought is was not related) but it also serves a more important roll in a high powered gas truck is saving the diff. Does that clear things up a little.
dmann33
11-05-2003, 07:01 PM
Advice needed for type of bearing to use for racing.
I know the 3 most common types :metal shielded, rubber sealed, and teflon (and their difference advantages and disadvantages).
Is the teflon ones worth the extra $$$, do the rubber ones scrub off too much performace for average racing? What most of the racers in this forum use?
Thanks in advance.
Scarab RC
11-05-2003, 07:10 PM
First of all, I really appreciate the response. Second of all, I'm not familiar with the XXX-NT. I'm used to dealing with 1/8th scale buggy gear differentials and the same type of differentials in the HPI Savage.
The slipper clutch's (which 1/8th scale buggys do not have) only job is to provide a "give" in the tranny system when a forceful backlash is sent through the transmission. When this backlash occurs, the slipper clutch's metal ring(s) slip on the clutch "pegs" in the Spur gear and then catches the pegs again to provide power to the tranny. That is my understanding of a slipper clutch.
A differential's main purpose is to allow for limited slip. This occurs mostly around corners where the inside tire almost always is spinning considerably faster than the outside tire. The less traction you have the more you want the differential to slip, else you are left with Posi traction and consequently a heck of a time keeping the car in order. The more traction and less corners you have the less differential action you NEED.
Is this right?
Scarab
rccarman5
11-05-2003, 07:30 PM
it's so cool to see the same topic be brought up and up, it just makes me happy to see that other people are having the same exact problem i did. but now i can acctually help them. my mistake acctually helped me out.
but i do hav eone problem, i dont like to tighten the diff so tight becaue i risk breaking teh diff screw like i did last time(when i was a beginenr) this was when i metled the gear and grooved the rings so bad that no matter how hard i tightened the screw, it would slip, but how do u know u're tightening the screw too much? btw, since i have the diff kinda loose, i loosened the slipper and no i'm not running my diff as a slipper.
should i do what the website says? and lock it and back out 1/8th? i dont have a speedy motor(xtm .15)(not fast but reliable) so my slipper never does slip, its' out about 3-1/2 turns or so to prevent the diff from slipping. should i leave it the way it is? also, how often do u need to replace to rings or flip them? thanks a lot. sorry for the long post.
Casper that was AWESOME! Copy that responce for the future. This question will come up again & again & again.LOL.
cave
I copied it to draft. Hope you dont mined Casper. If and I know it will come up again, You'll get the credit do!!!
rccarman5 I too had this problem. Some days I still do. I broke my Monster diff screw also. Now I just snug it tight and check it every race. If it gets loose I tighten it. I dont exert maximum pressure tighting it. I snug it good. I then Adjust the slipper so it spins as I turn the left tire forward. Then I tighten it up a tad bit at a time I test drive it whilst this adjusting is going on. once I find the sweet spot I dial it in from there depending on track conditions. It takes some time but once your there its all gravy.
On the diff rings, I flip mine. I havnt had a problem doing that.
cave
rccarman5
11-05-2003, 08:25 PM
I have a new body that isn't painted yet, i have used it and scratches the top, i was wondering if i can sand it down so its' smooth again? the way it looks like when it's new? or should i just go on and paint because u wont see the scratches that much?
Scarab RC
11-05-2003, 09:08 PM
Can we at least agree that the XXX-NT is the only truck in the universe that uses it's slipper clutch to mimic diff action and that the ball diff in the XXX-NT apparently has no purpose because it's locked down so tight that it is virtually Posi traction?
Above, rccarman wrote:
"...so my slipper never does slip, its' out about 3-1/2 turns or so to prevent the diff from slipping..."
Have I entered the Twilight Zone? "...to prevent the diff from slipping"? The whole purpose in having a differential is for it to slip, at least to some degree!!!
In a normal RC Car world:
The screw that I keep hearing about should be TIGHTENED so that the differential has LESS slip for HIGH traction surfaces.
The screw should be LOOSENED so that the differential has MORE slip for LOW traction surfaces.
And, the slipper clutch will only ever come into play on harsh impacts (to prevent tranny backlash) and to slip a little if the surface has low traction or if the driver has a heavy throttle finger.
I know I'm not crazy as I've been doing RC cars for years now. Someone please just tell me that what I wrote is normally how it works, just not with the XXX-NT. I still don't understand but I'll take your word for it and adjust his truck's diff accordingly.
Thanks,
Scarab
rccarman5
11-05-2003, 09:11 PM
if it was locked, it wouldn't turn right, mine turns incredably nice, i mean, u can tell what a locked diff feels like, u can't turn very well, mine isn't locked so i'm good.
Scarab RC
11-05-2003, 09:52 PM
Ok, I just read the instruction manuel on Losi's website about adjusting the diff and slipper on the XXX-NT. It flies in the face of all diff logic I've ever read, used, or experienced. But that is apparently how this stadium truck is setup. So be it. I appreciate you tolerating my rantings. Heck, I started seeing Care Bears and had drool dripping down my face as I tried to grasp this new concept in how to set up a diff and slipper on this truck. I'll give it a shot and try to setup my buddy's truck appropriately.
Scarab
rccarman5
11-05-2003, 09:56 PM
once u get it, it's as easy as pie.
at first, i was hearign taht whirlling noise, and sure enough it was the diff. i just hope i didn't run it too long that i messed up the balls. i dont think i did, they are very hard and the diff wasn't set too tight, besides, the gear didnt' melt completly, just melt enough to push the ball in very little, u can see how the ball travleed. prolly like 2 mm so it didnt' get too hot, just make sure the slipper slips before.
winning edge designs
11-05-2003, 10:33 PM
Scarab, if you read Kyosho or Associateds instructions as well they also say never to use the "differential" as a "slipper", since that is what the "slipper" is for. The slipper is a direct input on the trans and can never effect "diff action" no matter how loose or tight. The differential on my truck is silky smooth and not locked like a a posi. If your friends is "like a posi", his slipper is too tight and the diff is overtightened because of it.
A differential "Can" be used to adjust for different track conditions, but should never be loose enough to slip on ANY car, R/C or fullsize...in Fact in a fullscale car the differential is a gear type, like an 1/8th scale. But even an 1/8th scale diff NEVER slips, differential "Action" is controlled by fluid viscosity, not slippage.
Lastly, the "slipper clutch" should not be used for a traction aid beyond a certain range. Anyone who has ever ran thier slipper loose enough to stop wheel spin on a slippery track won't clear any jumps and won't have good forward momentum on the "good" sections of the track. No fullscale race car driver slips the clutch to gain traction, they use the throttle more gently to retain acceleration when it can be used...Jim
kombat88
11-06-2003, 03:35 AM
man all this talk about slips and diffs is driving me crazy too
but i went to the losi site and did what it said
but my thump on the spur cradle it held the right tire yadda yadda yadda....well when i spunt the left tire it was a pain to spin and it made like a sound...i guess u could call it barking or loud chirping...so according to the site my diff should be good right?
kombat88
11-06-2003, 03:46 AM
whoa change that more like the tire wont turn and when it does it makes a loud click sound eeekk
Scarab RC you have read here many points of view. Thats all. When someone comes here and askes for advice thats exactly what they are going to get. Most of us here have gone thru the same delemas a couple of times. Like myself. I learn by doing.
As for why a designer has designed a diff like this. Heck I dont know. I imagine some one had an idea and they tested & tested and found that this would work "IF" everything else is adjusted correctly. Ive seem GT's burn up diff gears Ive seen 1/8 scales do the same. Those guys get real animated when this happens to them (Big Bucks to repair). Basically, we try to help each other out. We've been there. We realize the frustration and try to get you thru it as best we can using this TYPE of media. If you were standing next to me with the XXX nt and had a quastion I could show you why or what. Some of us have even posted pics to help others out. In the end why ask why. It is there fore I race:D Till some one comes up with a better tranny this is what it is. I remember posting here that Losi did this stuff on purpose. w.e.d. set me straight on this. This is the most modern ST truck design out there. It must be good cause Mugen copied it.
I dont know why the diff is made that way but I know this. I like it alot better now that I know where to start! You only learn this by doing it. Your buddy will learn this too. Then you'll be posting something like this one day. I know this cause I was you not long ago
cave
Got Speed
11-06-2003, 10:21 AM
dmann33-
Metal shielded- Least amount of friction, cheapest, and wear out the fastest.
Teflon sealed- More friction than the metal shielded, a little more expensive, but they take a lot longer to wear out.
Rubber sealed- More friction the metal or teflon, more expensive than both but will last the longest.
Sorry I didn't read through all these diff posts. The diff is not supposed to be used as a slipper. The diff should never slip. It shouldn't ever be locked down either. A loose diff will result in a melted diff and tight diff will result in poor handling. The purpose of the diff is only in corners. When you turn your outside tire has to travel farther than your inside wheel. The diff allows the tires to turn at different rates yet still turn together when you hit the throttle. You need to make sure that your diff does not slip before your slipper. Start with a loose slipper setting. Then hold one wheel and the spur gear in one hand while turning the other wheel forward. If you slipper plates don't move you diff is too loose. If they move then tighten your slipper down a little more and try it again. Keep doing this untill you have your slipper where you want it and your diff isn't slipping. Then loosen your diff in 1/8 turn increments at a time untill the diff slips or chirps. Then tighten it in 1/16 increments untill it dosn't slip any more. When it dosn't slip tighten it 1/8 of a turn. Don't lock your slipper though. There is no need to lock it. A locked slipper only makes it harder on the rest of the drive train. It should be tight enough so that it dosn't slip under acceleration but slips on landings under power. I usually break-in my diff(or whatever you want to call it). The purpose is so that I can let all the parts seat and all before nailing the gas on the track. I usually run half a tank going in a figure eight patern. Then I check the diff. Then I put it on the track and run the remaining half tank and check it after the tank is finished. I don't think it is necessary but I do it just to make sure everything seats right and make sure it is adjusted how I like it. If you do these and don't neglect to rebuild your diff when it needs it you shouldn't have a problem.
dkj-M3
11-06-2003, 10:35 AM
oh yeah, I run my slipper as tight as possible, but it still slips before the diff. lots of good info guys. good idea to copy/save.
Casper
11-06-2003, 11:30 AM
Originally posted by Scarab RC
A differential's main purpose is to allow for limited slip. This occurs mostly around corners where the inside tire almost always is spinning considerably faster than the outside tire. The less traction you have the more you want the differential to slip, else you are left with Posi traction and consequently a heck of a time keeping the car in order. The more traction and less corners you have the less differential action you NEED.
Is this right?
Scarab
Ok the above paragraph is where you are confused. Let me explain a differential. I can tell you are a monster truck guy because of your description of the unloading of the inside tires which is mostly a monster truck problem!
A differential or "diff": A diffs purpose on ANY car is to allow one tire to rotate faster then its opposing tire. Take your car and roll it on a table in a circle. You will notice that the outside tire will need to travel a greater distance then the inside tire to allow the car to go smoothly around the corner. Because of this the outside tire will want to rotate faster then the inside tire to cover the greater distance. If the outside tire is not allowed to travel faster then inner tire then one of the tires will loose traction as is slips on the the ground since it must to go around the corner. Cars without differentials do not turn well since both tires are always traveling at the same speed and one tire has to loose traction in order to go around a corner. So I hope this discription allows you to understand what a differential allows the car to do. Notice I never said the differential is supposed to add traction or slip. It is solely used to aid in steering of the car.
This is going to get long so I will continue on the next post!
Casper
11-06-2003, 12:00 PM
diff explination contiuned:
Now there are two main types of differentials. There are gear diffs (found in real cars, 1/8th scale, Monster trucks and toy cars) The benefit of a gear diff is that is is VERY durable. The draw backs are that it is bulky, heavy and harder to tune.
Gear diffs: Like you noticed with your monster truck when you lift the inside tire on a corner the inside tire lights up! With a gear diff there is little resistance to allowing one tire to rotate faster then its opposing tire. The only friction you have is that of the gear friction which is hardly anything. To help solve the problem of one tire unloading is to add thick grease to the differential to slow the action of the differential down. The reason you want to slow the differential down is if you to unload one of the tires buy having is lift all of the power will be transfered to the tire that has no traction and you lose any forward traction from the tire that is on the ground and just spin the tires that is not on the ground. The other problem with a loose gear diff is that if you ever drove a tyco or nikko offroad car in loose dirt you migh notice that one tire would spin faster then the other and "dig in" which kept the car from going forward. This is all because the differential was too loose. You can solve this buy packing the gear diff with grease and this will slow down the diff action and keep the one tire from unloading while still allowing the differential to work where you want it to which is to help in CORNERING. The diff is just long allowed to run fast due to the drag of the the grease in the gears.
To be continued:
Scarab RC
11-06-2003, 12:06 PM
I think we may have a termonology conflict. When I say "slip" what I mean is differention action.
I'm a 1/8th scale buggy guy, and yes, I do have a Savage. I'm used to gear diffs that are filled with different vicosities of fluid to control the diff action.
Here's the deal:
On tight tracks with lots of corners and semi-low traction I will run 3K diff fluid in the front diff to allow more diff-action and that allows me to get around corners faster.
On wide, open tracks with high traction (asphalt) I would run 7K diff fluid in the front diff to allow for less diff action because it's not needed.
It also has to do with what handling attributes you want in your car, buggy, monster truck. If you want more understeer or oversteer. In my buggy I run 3K front diff, 3K center diff, and either 1K or grease in the rear diff. This allows my buggy to have a lot of steering, both on power and off because the rear diff has more diff action occuring going around corners and therefore will not be generating power that would cause the front to understeer.
Scarab
Casper
11-06-2003, 12:47 PM
Limited slip ball differential or "ball diff":
This ball diff was first used for electric offroad. The early R/C cars suffered from the "digging in" problem I described with the gear diffs with no a too thin of grease in the gears. The ball differential gave two things to these early pioneers to racing. They were able to easily adjust the tightness of the diff buy adjusting the spring tension in the ball diff (the same effect as changing diff grease weight) but they actually allowed the diff to slip like a slipper clutch due to loose track conditions and tires that had not traction. The did not have slipper clutches and there drive train was weak so they let the diff slip to save the tranny and to help with traction. The problem with this is that if you let the diff slip you needed to rebuild it on a regular basis (like every run). This really sucked. This is where the name limited slip diff came from. This is not the way you wanted to run a ball diff they did not have a choice as this was the only way they could keep the tranny from granading on these early cars. Fast forward to today. Modern R/C cars still use the ball diff because of its easy adjustablity and its light weight. The slipper clutch was invented to save damage to the transmission and to allow the differential to be run on the lighter side WITHOUT slipping now. The ball diffs are nice since the have enough resistance to unloading you do not get the digging effect of a greasless gear diff and this works really well for loose dirt conditions yet still work well for smooth diff action.
This all brings us to Gas trucks. They use the gear diffs or there electric counterparts but due to the massive power of the gas engines they become a weak link. If the slipper clutch is not set loose enough to take the impact load off the differential the diff will slip and thus require rework. This is a problem for all cars that have a ball type differential and not something you need to worry about with gear type diffs. This is not unique to the XXXNT or even losi cars. This is an issue for any car running a ball type diff. Again we use this type of diff in electric and 1/10th scale cars due to its reduction in rotating mass. The gear diff is much lighter then a metal gear diff. In 1/8th scale cars you need the durability of the gear diff and the weight is not as much of an issue due to having tons of power. If you ever get into 1/0th scale electric racing you will need to deal with this diff vs. slipper adjustment issue but due to the fact electric racing is usually easier on the tranny is it is not as critical that you get them adjusted properly.
Casper
11-06-2003, 12:51 PM
One last thing. If you do have a ball diff that is run too loose and it slips (not diff action slips but lack of friction acts like a slipper clutch slips) you groove the diff rings and have the potential of melting the diff gear due to heat buildup.
Cave-- This is free information. Print it, revise it, modify it, re post it do what you feel is necessary to spread the word. I just hope it is helpful to those that read it.
One last thing. Drake recommends that you bottom out the slipper clutch nut and back off 5 full turns to set the slipper clutch. If you diff is set properly this is a good starting point for you slipper clutch. It has always been about 1/4 turn away from perfect for me. This applies only to the XXXNT.
Cool Casper.
With Xmass just around the corner I think this question will come up again. Be nice to just past Info up. Got Speed has a post on Diff adjusting. He post it once and a while. Say every 2 ta 3 months.
Got Speed Im going rididng in the AM but Im gunna try to get home around 1PM. If I make it back around that time I'll be there.
I think Tony will be there if he gets back from Vegas in time.
Some of the locals are way too serious. Kinda makes me want to take a break. Its not Life or death for me. Its just about having a great time with cool people. Those few need to realize Winning is great. But If you cant handle losing once in awhile your not having fun. I'll be there But I think I'll have my race face on. Look out GS HAcker boy may be back:D I know this is a thursday deal.
cave
Got Speed
11-06-2003, 10:49 PM
cave- Cool. Alright. I should be out there. I was hoping to be racing the T-Maxx. But I'm going to wait and get a Sirio.
what about the Wasp? Get some info that stired your thoughts on it?
cave
Got Speed
11-07-2003, 10:48 AM
cave- I havn't found hardly any comments on the engine. I found when I went to break it in though that I did need a an .18 pipe like I though. No where on the intructions or there web site does it say that though. I even emailed them with no response. I bought the pipe. But after selling that battery at the Cactus I had the difference to buy a Sirio. I'm putting the engine up on ebay today. Hopefully I'll have the Sirio before next time I go racing.
rccarman5
11-07-2003, 04:18 PM
Originally posted by Casper
One last thing. If you do have a ball diff that is run too loose and it slips (not diff action slips but lack of friction acts like a slipper clutch slips) you groove the diff rings and have the potential of melting the diff gear due to heat buildup.
you said that when you run the diff too loose, you groove the diff rings, i believe that but after that mistake, i rebuild the diff and adjusted it properly having the slipper clutch slip before the diff and it still grooves the rings after a while. it was about a gallon use on it and i'm sure its' normal to groove the rings after a while, right? or is it still to loose? let me know.
Casper
11-07-2003, 05:05 PM
After a gallon that is normal use. The rings will groove natrually but it will groove uniform. If the balls slip you will make small deeper grooves from the slipping and this will cause the diff to feel gritty. The diff rings can be flipped over but you will always want to replace the thrust bearing with each rebuild. The grooves that you see from normal wear (a gallon of running is normal wear) will appear in one run on a loose diff.
rccarman5
11-07-2003, 07:30 PM
one more question, my diff feels gritty or has been feeling gritty from day one, this is when teh diff is out and in my hands, when i do place it in the tranny and rotate the wheels, it's as smooth as butter.
i heard that this was also normal?
Casper
11-07-2003, 09:32 PM
Yeah you will feel a lot more of the grittyness with the diff in your hands. When it is in your car and you turn it with the tires you cannot feel the very little bumps that the balls have on the gears like you can by touching the outdrives. This is pretty normal although a brand new diff should feel smooth in your hands. This does not last very long though.
rccarman5
11-07-2003, 09:34 PM
i would think a brand new diff would feel very smooth but i forgot how it felt when i was assembling it. when i do rebuild it later, i will be sure to check.
Got Speed
11-07-2003, 11:16 PM
You groove your rings after only a gallon!? My last set of rings had 6 gallons on them and they weren't grooved. If you ran your fingernail over the ring you could feel it wasn't quite the same as the rest of the ring but the groove wasn't even visible. :confused:
rccarman5
11-08-2003, 01:16 AM
you probably have it very very tight then. pretty close to locked. because usually when u trun, u can see the ire unload, well i do, the outside tire. sometimes, i dont like to do that though becaue it drive the diff too much.
winning edge designs
11-08-2003, 06:54 AM
My diffs always feel a little notchy, even brand new, when out of the truck (or car). Once in the truck they feel like butta!
As far as life expectancy of the diff, or rings, the most i've gone is about 2 gallons before the outdrives are toast. Kind of hard to drive the truck with 1/8th inch indents from the dogbone pins in the outdrives, LOL! Most of what we feel during checking is the thrust bearing itself, but some of the notchy feel comes from uneven wear of the diff rings. That is under magnification, the surface looks like this (~~~~~~~~~~~~~~), very uneven from uneven pressure on the rings and slipping. The part most people don't know is as your rings wear the available friction for your diff is better, as long as the adjustment is kept correct during the wearing process. This is due to more contact area as the "groove" is formed, rather then a few thousandths you can get up to double the contact, or friction, for a diff Less likely to slip.......The problem doesn't come from the rings wearing, but rather wearing unevenly.
Diff life in gas, or electric, is directly connected to how tight the slipper is vs. how tight the diff is run..................Jim
Got Speed
11-08-2003, 10:13 AM
rccarman5- No my diff is pretty loose. It's real nice and smooth. I guess I was expecting what you were talking about was a huge groove in it. I do have to rebuild my diff more often with the Mugen or Picco than I ever had to with my OS. lol :p My diff has always felt gritty when I first put it together. After the first tank of fuel on it though it's really smooth.
winning edge designs- 2 gallons? I probably rebuild my diff a little more frequently than that but when I was using my OS I only rebuild the diff once. lol I was expecting what rccarman5 was saying was that his rings were grooved like someones who toasted there diff. lol I have about 7 gallons on the outdrives I'm running now. They don't have any notches in them yet. I can see where it is just a little uneven with the rest but it is extremely little. Do you just replace yours every 2 gallons or do you actually notch them that often?
winning edge designs
11-08-2003, 09:49 PM
Got Speed, i've had a couple pair wear pretty quickly, Losi says it was a soft batch not heat treated well and has been corrected. I have gotten quite a bit out of my latest set of outdrives.
On the 2 gallon diff, I just wanted to see how long it could go, since alot of locals (GT owners mostly) complained they were unreliable. You should have seen the faces of the guys I was beating when they looked at my severly notched outdrives......They went from saying unreliable to asking me if I EVER work on the thing, LOL....Funny thing is the diff still felt pretty good, ha.....point proven, Jim
losixxx213
11-08-2003, 10:17 PM
I'm thinking of getting a xxxnt and was wanting to know why you guys replace the outdrives right away after they get notches? I own a xxxtmfe and was putting in faster lap times at my local track with a stock motor than guys with brushless and my outdrives have severe notches(I'm replacing/rebuilding my diff. soon).
Got Speed and I were at SRS tonight and he asked this question, Is your paint peeling of the Losi body? I looked at mine an the answer is YES. Has anyone else had a body that the paint is separating from the lexan? This is my 5th body for my xxxnt. This is the first time thet same paint has peel off.
cave
Casper
11-09-2003, 12:00 AM
Did you clean the body with mild dish washing soap prior to painting? You need to do this to get rid of any left over mold relase. The other thing is to make sure your first coat is a light coat expecially with florecent colors. After you put a light coat on you can apply "regular" coats but do not put it on too thick. I have not had many issues with paint not sticking with any color other then pactura Purple. That has been a really difficult color to work with in trying to keep it to stick. A light first coat solved the problems though.
Racin Rev
11-09-2003, 12:47 AM
in addition to all that casper said, i use either a fine or extra fine sandpaper or a medium and fine steel wool and go over the inside of the shell that gives the paint some comples surfaces to stick to. be sure that you:
1. remember not to do this to your windows lol!
2. wash the body after you do this, as the sandpaper will leave dust and the wool has a bit of oil on it to keep it from rusting.
winning edge designs
11-09-2003, 09:07 AM
Excellent post racin' rev.
The only thing i'll add is that I prefer scotch brite pads (available in fine, med and coarse) to sandpaper or steel wool. They contain no oils and won't leave alot of dust behind, other then sanded lexan dust. The paint will fill in the fine scratches perfectly so they aren't detectable after painting.....As long as you don't sand the window areas as posted before. If you do by mistake, some window tint paint or clear nail polish can touch them up. Clean up with dentaured Alcohol (available at pharmacies for about 70 cents) and a terry cloth towel before painting.
The only colors that May give trouble no matter how much you prep are flourescent yellow and blacks......So you them in very light coats. I sometimes spray them in 5 or 6 coats, rather then the 2 or 3 in other colors.
See my work at jconcepts.net
.......:), Jim
Juice
11-09-2003, 01:09 PM
Hey Guys, long time since last post, anyway Im having a horrible time keeping me rod ends on the ball studs, they are always poping off no matter what I do! I have went to the captured ends in the back but my fronts are always coming off even in the least little crashes.
Is there some special trick to keeping these things on. If you could give me some part numbers of good balls and ends to go with them would be apprecialted.
Im having a hard time locating the captured ball ends...who and where can I get these at? Thanks
winning edge designs
11-09-2003, 03:17 PM
Juice, There are a couple of good sources for captured ball ends here. Try JR Bobby in kissimmee Florida at 407-944-4913, or Superior Hobbies at 407-834-9299.
I use the Proline Tmaxx captured rod ends on mine where they fit as needed. Usually only in the rear, since the fronts haven't given me any trouble though. Du-bro also makes some good ones, but they may bend a little easy rather then pop off. Of course bent ballcups allow you to finish a race then replace them afterwards, which is better, imo.
I figure this is better info then what some people may say, "don't hit stuff" LOL..........Weird since i've seen the pros bend, break and pop off PLENTY of ballcups as well!.........Tuff to figure how Paid Professional drivers can hit stuff but us club racers aren't supposed to, haha!...Side note, it isn't a brand specific problem, i've seen Billy Easton pop off a ballcup on his GT during a race too, :)........Jim
rhcsavage21
11-09-2003, 03:58 PM
who uses fantom race engines here?????
Got Speed
11-09-2003, 04:37 PM
I've cleaned my body up real good then used steel wool then cleaned it again. Could it be old paint? This isn't happening to my blue paint only my red paint. When I went to paint my body I used an old can and a new can of paint? I'm using Parma spray cans if it makes any difference. Candy red, candy blue, and indy silver backing.
Juice
11-09-2003, 05:41 PM
W.E.D,
Thanks for the reply! Yea I do have some of the Proline T-MAxx ends as well since I have a T-MAxx too:D I may try and fit those up front?? have to go see I guess.
Are there any specific ball ends & Cups that work well together that you can recommend?
You mention Dubro! Are there any others you can think of for the captured ends...Thanks
dkj-M3
11-09-2003, 07:23 PM
Juice i've tried them all & the t-maxx ends seem to be the best, i only use them on trouble spots just like Jim said. I use black RPM ball cups every where else. They bend but don't break like the losi cups.
rhcsavage21- go to the forum here www.dcrcr.com & ask Jesse Robbers. He's a Fantom & Losi factory driver.
winning edge designs
11-09-2003, 07:26 PM
Juice, You can use Rocket City, Dubro, or 1/8th scale rod ends with thier correct size steel balls installed as well. The Lunsford super duty turnbuckles will make almost anything work. The only trouble will be finding the right length for the ballcup and location you use.
Got Speed, I have had a little trouble with the candy red as well. But it usually isn't too bad if done in very light coats. Another thing would be not to spray in too cold or damp conditions, since this seems to make things worse...........Solid, non metallic, non candy colors seem most durable, other then black..........Jim
Thanks for the info on painting. I have clean the bodies and I also used the fine scotch pad. I'm having problems with the flouresent orange. I guess I have to deal with it. I did apply it in 7 coats. I di however get it kinda thick. Maybe that was it. All the other colors are ok I did however notice that it looked like the paint was bubbling in some spots that take impacts like the rear shock tower area. Oh well. This is my 3rd body that I have painted. Thanks for the info guys. I'll lay it on thin the next time.
I heard some guy at the track lecturing another racer on making sure he bought the right ball studs for the RPM cups. I dont know if there is a difference. It would be nice to have some 5/40 ball studs and cups to match.
cave
Got Speed
11-10-2003, 10:16 AM
winning edge designs- Thanks. I'll have to make sure and put it on really light next time. I may try a different paint scheme though.
cave- There has to be a difference in the ball studs because I when I tried the RPM cups on my Losi and when I had my GT they popped off very easy. I don't see you popping them off to much. I'd say the ball studs are different.
GS my driving style got better. :D Well not that much better. I dont punch it thru the jumps anymore. I use the black cups now too. I think the cups need to be replaced more frequently when racing. Got Speed have you heard bout the new track in the 300 Ave.?
cave
Got Speed
11-10-2003, 06:30 PM
cave- No I havn't heard anything else about it. Is it supposed to be a good track? I doubt I would go out there more than once though. That would be about an hour-hour and a half for me.
RCRACER2471
11-10-2003, 08:50 PM
Does anyone know the part # for the molded thrust bearing assembly and where I could find it?
Also is there a better grease than Losi's that will help the diff perform better after I rebuild it.....
Ryan
Casper
11-10-2003, 09:55 PM
A-3098 Diff Thrust Bearing w/Carbide Balls (Molded) all except LRM $5.00
I use AE greases for my diff. There black grease works really well in with the thrust.
winning edge designs
11-10-2003, 10:05 PM
Rcracer2471, the TeamLosi greases work very well for me, I always use them now after trying several different brands. The manufacturers all have thier greases made by an outside source, as with alot of parts. The main differences being color, but they are also sometimes slightly thicker material, but almost always the same basic chemicals....Some sources in the know tell me the A/E and TeamLosi diff lube is exactly the same, but the white Losi lube and Black A/E are different......I would think since TeamLosi always improves thier products, when they see a need, they would have done so with the grease?
Of course people are still complaining about the ballcups after years and years, LOL.....:), Jim
yea you'd think Losi would of done something about it by now Huh w.e.d.
J/K
cave
RCRACER2471
11-11-2003, 10:18 AM
Thanks for the help guys! :)
RCRACER2471
11-11-2003, 07:41 PM
I have another question...Im looking for more speed out of my truck. I was looking at the drake pipe since I have the original kit. Will that help me at all top end wise or is there any other pipes that are better than that making my truck faster???
Casper
11-11-2003, 07:45 PM
The drake pipe will help with that.
RCRACER2471
11-11-2003, 08:16 PM
Are there any pipes faster than the drake?
Animeboy123
11-11-2003, 09:14 PM
I am wanting to get a XXXNT soon and was wondering, is the engine reliable and easy to tune??
winning edge designs
11-11-2003, 09:45 PM
Casper has it right as always!...The Drake pipe, imo, is the best pipe on the market for the money and the power it produces. I've tried a TON of different ones.
Animeboy, i'll assume your looking at the RTR. the Kit engine is very good, especially while your learning. After you wear it out figuring the tuning, driving, etc. you'll want to upgrade to an O.S. .12 or Orion Wasp, Mugen, etc..........Jim
Casper
11-12-2003, 11:59 AM
Ah thanks Jim :o
losixxx213
11-12-2003, 04:48 PM
I'm hopefully going to be getting a xxxnt arr for x-mas and was wondering how much the drake pip costs, does anyone know
Casper
11-12-2003, 04:56 PM
Stormer is selling it for 25.95 Los9332
losixxx213
11-12-2003, 05:33 PM
thanks casper
Animeboy123
11-12-2003, 10:44 PM
OK Thanks winning edge designs,
I know i need the glow plug and glow plug ignighter and also the fuel, so which is some good fuel to start out with, a good dlow plug and glow ignighter??
Thanks ^^x
Got Speed
11-12-2003, 11:41 PM
Animeboy123- I would suggest a good rechargeable glow ignitor like this one from tower-
With Meter
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN91&P=7
Without Meter
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN89&P=7
C Alkaline
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRK05&P=7
The one with the meter is nice because it tells you how much charge is left in the battery. There are lots of different ones you could look at but those are pretty much the only different kinds you will find. I would suggest the first one I gave a link to.
I've never run that engine so I can't help with the glow plug. Probably an MC-59 or A3 glow plug would work the best though.
Personally my two favorite fuels are Odonnell 20% Race and Trinity Platinum 20%. Fuel is mostly opinion. The oil content, nitro percentage, type of oil used, .... I suggest trying different fuels. Just make sure you get car fuel(not airplane or helicopter fuel) and 20% is probably the best choice.
GS You racing tonight?
I read in another thread how the legth of the pressure line determines the fuel flow to the engine.
How long is everone running this pressure line? Mines 4" or so I havnt had a problem upright or upsidedown. I was just woundering what everyone else is running there pressure line at. Now if I could gane an extra minute of run time when My truck is on its top that would be great. Some of the electric guys hate to marshal Gas trucks so they, well the take there time getting to ya if you end up top side down. Coarse they hollar at me when THEY flip over, there racing when it happens to them.:D LOL
Cant we all just get along :D
cave
rccarman5
11-15-2003, 04:59 PM
to tell u the truth, i dont think teh presure line has any effect(size wise) but i did wat the manual said and did it like 12 inches i think. as for the upside down, it's the lenght of fuel line to teh carb, i would run it around the head instead of directly into the carb over the throttle linkage, that way, u have a good 4 inches or so of fuel line before it cuts on u. try it, u should be on top for a good 20 seconds.
winning edge designs
11-15-2003, 11:38 PM
For my feed line to the carb I use about a 6 inch peice that loops around the head. To keep it from laying on the exhaust header and causing vapor lock, I fabricated a piano wire holder that mounts to the rear tower bolt.
It's easy, make a loop for the bolt on one side, then about a 2 inch straight section, maybe 1 and 1/2", to another loop that is bent with an opening and larger...works like a charm.
You can use a 14 inch pressure line, or a 1 inch and the pressure should be the same. The only difference i've noticed is the longer line seems to help with idle consistency a little. Think about it like this, if there are no leaks, tank or exhaust, and the exhaust is connected thru the pressure line to the tank how can pressure be effected. Like a garden hose, if it's longer it only takes a little longer to fill ,but will give the same water pressure and volume after it is full.
The difference in upside down runtime is in the feed line to the carb.......Jim
rccarman5
11-15-2003, 11:47 PM
told ya! and u heard it from teh master himself.
I figured the same but I still wated to post this to get the Feed Back you all gave me. The way w.e.d & rccarman5 explained make perfect sence. I toltally understand 2 strokes and the fact that there is no fuel pump on my quad or Dirt bike. I just woundered If what I read on the nitro forum was correct. I have a 4" pressure line and a about the same size fuel line. Last night I got upside down once and It ran for what seemed like eternity. Thank guys.
cave
I found this link in the nitro forum. it explains the differences between slide and rotary carbs. It also explains in brief the functions of the 2 carbs. May help some out here.
Carb Info (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/carburetor.asp)
cave
Got Speed
11-16-2003, 09:36 AM
cave- As you can see I wasn't there last night. If nothing stops me I'll be there next week though. I should have my Sirio in my Maxx and broken-in by then too. I run a 12" pressure line. I've run as short as a 3" before. The 12" seems like it smooths out the powerband a little. Maybe it's just me but that is how it feels to me. BTW: there is an SRS forum under the club/track forum.
Cool GS. I ran my best last night I got 1st in my first qualifyer. the rest went down hill from there. I broke another rear titanium ball stud last night I was like 10 seconds ahead of second place then that happened. lol. CHICKEN BONE BIG TIME. In the main I was out there warming up when I had a bad itch on my nose I rubbed it on my shirt and accidently pull the trigger. Bam I hit the pipe and broke my A arm before the race started. :mad: I still had fun after the races. Me and tony and a few others were racing till the 8th scales took to the track. Im going to check out the track rite down the road from me here. Its not built yet but the 1 of the guys who own the hobby shop there was racing and aske if any of us had ideas for the track so Im crusin over there today.
cave
Shoe0727
11-16-2003, 06:40 PM
one of my friends is think about getting a XXXNT. Are they a good truck??
Thanks
rccarman5
11-16-2003, 07:37 PM
are you kidding, it's one of the best, if not the best. the other contender is the rc10GT. it's a debate, some like the rc10 some like the losi.
one thing though, make srue he knwos how the differential is worked. that is the number one problem everyone has when they are a beginner to a new car. especially this with thi's ball diff. i screwed mine up, so make sure he knows how to set it up.
Got Speed
11-16-2003, 07:55 PM
cave- Ahh that sucks. Have you tried the captured Traxxas ball ends. I've never broken one. Is the track down the road from you the action hobbies place? If so, do you know about what streets it is? I'd like to go there and check it out. Maybe even give him a few ideas if he is open to them, lol. Are you planning on starting to race over there instead?
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