Team Losi XXXNT forum v7.0

[jasonrcfreak]

hello there! I was looking at a friend's manual for his Drake truck and I noticed that there is a beville washer on the diff screw located next to the thrust bearing assembly. I have never seen this washer in a regular NT kit manual or a sport manual. What's up with that??

I was re-assembling my diff so I went ahead and put the beville washer on. Just thought is was strange. :D I got my new engine in, a new trinity aluminum pivot block, and a cool new Crowd Pleezer body. I'm ready to rock-n-roll! :D

[Got Speed]

Am I the only one who hasn't been able to access the board for the past few days? I got email notifications that someone posted but when I clicked them it said there was something wrong with the site.

jasonrcfreak- Yes the washer does belong there. My manual says the same and that is what I do without a problem.

[cave]

Got Speed I had the same problem bro. Hey I got 1st again in the B main last night. I was patient and Iwas Fast too. Tony had problems with the radio or reciever.

cave

[cave]

GS I raced with my Drake last night. Its so much lighter than the almost RTR. No racing Thursday 4th of July. Scott says there will be racing on Saturday the 5th. You gunna be there? We had the shade setup here. 115° on the pavement yesterday. A couple of guys had portable swamp coolers. That made it bearable.

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

k, thanks for the info. I've never seen a beville washer there before.

[jasonrcfreak]

Just got this body done. Thought I should post a pic since it won't look the same after its first race :D

[cave]

that sure was oops I mean is a purdy good looking body jasonrcfreak

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

I'll have to take a couple of "after" pics after the races next. :D I've run a couple of tanks through the Collari to start breaking it in. Can't wait to see how it does on the track. :D

[Saboteur]

Nice ride Jason. Is that the collari .12 SE or RE?

[jasonrcfreak]

It's a Rear Exhaust with a rotary carb. I got a deal on it on Ebay since I think Collari has broken off relations(I think) with Picco. Rumor has it that Collari has hooked up with Sirio.
I'm anxious to get it out on the track and see how it does up against the CV-R's and Wasps and Mugens.

[jasonrcfreak]

I've just got the wheels from a Drake. This truck started out as an ARTR version. I've added a JR 8550 steering servo(from an 1/8 scale I used to have) and a Futaba 9404 throttle servo.

I'm running an Associated pipe. Bout the only other hop-up on it is the Trinity rear pivot block.

[cave]

jasonrcfreak Your going to love that motor. There is a guy here In AZ that bought one too. It is FAST... Hold on to your radio:D

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

Glad to hear that! There's some CV-R's and Wasps that I need to waste! :D

[jasonrcfreak]

I saw a carbon fiber chassis for an NT on Ebay. Has anyone tried one of these? I'm wondering how tough they are, etc etc.

[Saboteur]

Thats awesome. Tear up the track dude and try not to spin out too much ;) :p . I'm still bashing here with my rtr. The mach .15 is great. Hopefully I'll find a track or when I get a real car, go to one.

[cave]

jasonrcfreak
I think MikeWz Has one chassis, or was that grapgite. Hum. Ask him

[Got Speed]

cave- Nice on the 1st place! Yea, I'll be there saturday. I hope I can get an LCS by then but it dosn't look like it :(

jasonrcfreak- Yes they have broken off with picco. Is this the ROAR version or the Outlaw? Sweet paint job you've got there. :) MikeWz bought one of those CF chassis so you might want to talk to him.

[jasonrcfreak]

It's the ROAR engine- 3 port, non-turbo.

[Got Speed]

jasonrcfreak- Tell me how it is when you get it running.

[Saboteur]

I think I know where its coming from. There is a part of the fuel tank that sits in a hole in the chassis. It seems to be touching the chassis so for sure all the vibration travels through the chassis upto the fuel tank. Since the tank is already raised above the chassis like 3mm or so, I just put some fuel tubing where the opening was to raise that part of the tank. Lets just hope it works. :) Wouldnt really consider the fuel backing into the pressure line a problem since it doesnt affect the performance and does go back into the fuel tank when I block the exhaust and pull the P/S to get the fuel into the engine.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- If it is the old style tank it can cause a problem. Mine used to be able to idle upside down for about 20 seconds but when my old tank started acting up it would idle for about 5 seconds. It also would constantly flood the engine and run erraticly. I put the new tank on and no problems.

[cave]

The old style tank created a flooding problem. The foaming problem may be your fuel type. I just deal with it on mine. The foaming seams to stay in the tank. So long as the line is full of fuel with no air bubbles you shopuld be ok. I just replaced the fuel tank on mine again. Mine burst on the front. Couldnt figure out why it ran so crappy. When I swiched trucks I discovered this seperation on the tank. Could be my drivin style. heheheheeh

cave

[racer2]

what is the part number for the new tanks. My lhs only carries the old kind. :(

[Got Speed]

racer2- If you have an e b a y account take a look on there for
a guy under the name of t p rc He sells new stuff for the XXX-NT at pretty good prices. You can get a Graphite Upper Deck and Fuel tank(with the bolts and washers) for $17.

[cave]

ERRRRRRRRRRRR I paid 13 just for the New Tank.
GS I put my NMT on E bay Sunday. Hope it sells. Im giving the ss.15 away in the price. Live and learn. See ya Saturday. Oh yea I'm on Vacation.:D :D :D :D

cave

[cave]

racer2
I just thru the paper away on the Tank. 112° outside and I dont want to dumpsterdive. Has any one seen Kinwalds XXXNT Its got a diferent tank than the 2 Ive used, The pressure nipple is on the tank behind the lide. Hum there up ta sumptin huh.

[Saboteur]

Well I dont have an ebay account and truthfully the only problem I have is the vibration. It just only created the bubbles in the line. For the 4 days I've spent atleast 1hr30+, well nearly 3hrs the day I managed to get it running and so far no foaming in the tank or engine problems; just em darn bubbles. After I get some business done early 2morrow, gonna hit the field again. So glad the weather is cooler though btw. :)

[jasonrcfreak]

Well, I ran a couple of more tanks through the Collari today. Leaning it out a little at a time...blipping the throttle...etc. The temp was consistently 160-165 and even at that the temp.....HOLY CRAP!!! :D The throttle repsonse is awesome...it takes off like a bat outta hell. :D I think this engine is going to be a beast!

[MikeWz]

Jason-Yeah I've got the CF chassis. It's made by Fiber Lyte. I really like it a lot. I'm on my second one because I didn't use crazy glue around the edges of the first one :( I've crazy glued the edges of this one and it's PERFECT. It's super light, and super rigid so it handles really great. And between the MT12 and the super light chassis there's not a person on the track that can out acclerate me :D

[jasonrcfreak]

Is the Fiber Lyte chassis the one I see on Ebay all the time? What's the purpose of the super glue? Does it reinforce the egdes of the chassis or what? Have you had any problems with it cracking or anything?

thanks
J

[Got Speed]

cave- So your not going to be there saturday? Are you sure kinwald didn't just move it to the back? Or is it molded in there? Hopefully I will see you there saturday.

jasonrcfreak- The one I have seen was awesome. Enough power to compete with all the other race engines and just insane top end. Good luck with it. Just to LYK running at 160 during break-in will make the engine perform less and wear faster due to the fact that when it is colder there is more pinch in the piston and sleeve so it causes more friction. You'll have fun with it I'm sure. :)

[MikeWz]

Jason-Yes, that's the fiber lyte one. www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
They have some other stuff too. The
CF is fibers in a matrix that are layerd on top of each other. It's like plywood. The Glue helps keep the fibers from delaminating. It helps a lot. You could even use epoxy. That'll probably hold it better (not that it needs it, the crazy glue has held up just fine). I highly recommend the chassis

[cave]

Got Speed, Yea I'll be there. Tony just picked up a fast electric motyor for his buggy. He wants to race tonight.

jasonrcfreak I may be mistaken but I believe you want to break the motor in at around 220° to 250°. The heat is part of proper breakin. This alows the sleeve and piston to mate properly. I may be off a few ° on the low side. I know most of the people who race with us here get the motor up to 270° for just a moment then alow it too cool completely.

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

I ran some more fuel through it today. Got it up to around 220-225. Personally, I don't like to run mine over 230-235. I ran a tank through it, let it cool down to ambient, and then ran another tank through at around 225-230. HOLY CRAP!! This thing is ballistic! I've never seen a .12 take off like this thing. I had a Yokomo GT4 with an MT12 and that's what this thing resembles. I was running it around the hobby shop parking lot. I had the slipper out about 5 turns and it was still wanting to pull the front end off the ground.

The guy who runs the shop has a CV-R in his NT and he was gawking at the thing. :D Can't wait til Saturday! :D

[Got Speed]

cave- I talked to him yesterday about it. He said he got 4th in the A-Main on saturday(not in the novice class either). I almost bought myself a XXX yesterday off of ebay for $50 with 9 sets of tires. lol I'll see you out there.

[cave]

jasonrcfreak I understand. Heat kills. Good luck at the races. remember to start out slipping then make tiny adjustments till you find that sweatspot. This will keep you from hearing that awfull chirping sound that makes your compitition grin:D

Got Speed I'll be there. Tony has an insane elect. motor. A local guy builds them He's gunna burn up the novis class. IF he can control all that power.LOL. we're not racing after all tonight. just as well. Less chance of breaking something vital.

The sometimes aggressive but humble driver
cave:D

[cave]

I hardley ever surf into the Nitro forum but last time I did there was a guy who asked the age old (?) Losi or GT. I think its funny when people who drive aggressive Rag on the XXXnt. Seams to me that if your wreckless, aggressive, competetive or have a tough track set up your going to break something. Quit a few people blame the Losi xxxnt. At SRS, The most popular truck is the LOSI xxxnt, XXXt, Associated steal and xxx buggie run neck and neck. I was wondering, all you out there who race this weekend. Take a look around your track. Look and see what truck is more popular. Im just courios to see if this is a central AZ fanom. I'm not trying to start anything. I just wonder if what I read is true. I think the gt is also an awsome truck but prefer the LOSI. I made a choice and I'm happy with it. Help me out here.
Be honest too.

Let me drive it , I can break it :p

cave

[dkj-M3]

I think most run Losi's in OH. at least mid to southern OH.

[cave]

Thanks dkj-M3 I'm just wondering why some of those guys are so bitter. I raceds dirtbikes Quads and Anything that is HIGHPERFORMANCE is running close to the edge. I just felt that these guys answering this newbies question was so wrong. But I kept my fingters intact.
Anyone else out there who races check it out. The fastest guy at our track runs a GT but he is sponcered by AE. He can win with a Losi too. He's 16 years young and drives awesome. Its the driver. Oh yea he breaks alot of parts too. He drives on the edge all the time. therefor he wins there for he breaks too. GS you know this guy too.

[Got Speed]

I think overall for gas trucks there are more Losis on the track. There seem to be alot more bashers with the GT. I have owned both and they are both race trucks. Breakage depends on how and where you drive your truck. I usually just tell people a few things when I post in those forums. They are both race trucks one will be better for one person while another may be better for someone else or they may be equal. Look for what parts your LHS stocks. Drive them both if you can and if not at least look at them both. Then make up your mind. For a nitro stadium truck neither will make you regret buying it. That is pretty much what I say. I bought the Losi myself after selling my GT because to me it seemed to have more features geared towards racing.

cave- I'm thinking of going to RCSM to try my luck (er, skill) at the oval? Have you been over there yet? I don't know about tony. LOL after talking to him the other day it sounds like hes going to abondon nitro. LOL j/k I'll see you there.

[mj_bandit]

Hey.. Someone wants to trade me their XXX-NT Sport, for My Traxxas Bandit.. He said the Clutch doesn't like to stay on? How much could this be to fix? Is it worth it to trade for? I know they are nice gas trucks.. and the Bandit's, aren't all that nice.. EVEN tho I got a few hop ups on it.:rolleyes:

[pooldoc101]

I,ve noticed GT racers really hate Losi trucks, why I don't know. The GT's break as often as the Losi's, and I've had both, I think the Losi handles better out of the box. The only thing I wish Losi was easier to clean, that top plate is a real pain! I'm gonna get the Native racing plate that comes apart, up by the servo and around the fuel tank is always holding dirt. GT guys always say how fragile the Losi diff is, but I've never toasted one yet, and I run a high power 5 port turbo. Pooldoc

[cave]

MJ you are a lucky person. DO IT. Lock tight it. You win. Got speed had a problem like this at SRS one night. GS maybe you could enlighten him

GS I read how indestructable GT's were on that thread and thouight of mayfields gt. lol and hes sponcered. lol.
He does drive better than most. Its too bad losi didnt pick him up.
I rave about how awesom My Mugen runs and forgot about the platform. I thought everone else knew that too.
When this guy does break something and being a nubee he will, I hope he dont get frustraighted and blow the rc stuff off.


Tony never had a Electrick. He just sees that a fast motor goes for around 40 bucks and love the thought of being able to get 4 motors to 1. I've been there and done that. He wont leave NITRO.lol. He goes racing without me now. Besides its too quiet with electrics and he grunts when he drives.lol.

cave

[Got Speed]

mj_bandit- Make sure the guy isn't going to scam you first. If you are pretty comfortable with it then yea that is a great deal. As far as the clutch staying on. I don't know if you mean the clutch nut or something else. If it is the cluch nut all you need to do is lock tight it. It could also be that it is a short shaft engine in it and that the shaft has been cut way too much. If that is the case then you can buy a new crank for about $20 usually. If the flywheel and clutch are spinning but not the crank and the clutch nut is still really tight then you will need to buy a collet which run about $2. If the clutch nut is stripped they are about $5. If it has any or all of those problems it is still an awesome deal IMO as long as you sure he isn't going to rip you off.

pooldoc101- I've noticed that too some. Some GT guys usually hate the NTs. But usually it dosn't go the other way. Jealousy!? lol j/k The diffs are great if adjusted right. The only difference is that it much easier to adjust a GT diff that is why you don't here of them melting. When both adjusted right they are about equal.

cave- Yea. Sometimes you will break sometimes you won't. If you hit hard enough either will break. I think losi is prone to break easier in some areas and vise versa. Has mayfield been out there lately? I havn't seen him for several weeks.

[racer2]

hey what do u guys brake more of when u do brake something. I heard that the shock towers and the a-arms usally brake the most. I only brocken about 5 front a-arms and 1 rear arm, but never the shock towers. I need to go to the store for some more a-arms and some other things, but wanted to know if i should go buy a front and rear shock tower just in case:D .

[Got Speed]

I've only broken one shock tower ever. After a lot of hard crashes and flips I managed to crack part of it. I glued it and it held up fine untill later in the day some guy hit me half throttle right in the back which broke it. You may want to get some extras but it seems for me I break ball cups, rear hub carriers, and front arms the most.

[Got Speed]

racer2- There is something wrong with the PM box because I emptied it and I still can't get messages. You can post here or email me at falcon247@Juno.com
:)

[cave]

racer2

Front A arms are what I break. Never broke a shock tower. I did replace one because I couldnt get the broken Titanium ball stud shaft out. Ball studs, cups, turnbuckles, replace with Titanium(Lunsford).

GS Mayfield works the Store on Sturdays when he dosent race the Saturday sieries. He races Electric buggy at SRS There going to Cali for the 4th.

pooldoc101 I brought this up because of a thread I read on the nitro forum. there are some bitter poeple on there. seams like they drove there Losi then broke them them blamed the truck for being weak. I was just wondering about what truck is more popular at your local races.

I like both trucks but I got 2 Losis a rtr and the Drake I race them both.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Maybe I just havn't seen him in there or he was in the back. :confused: Nearly everyone is biased to what they own. LOL you think the nitro forum is bad look at the monster truck forum. :p :rolleyes:

I don't see dyeable ball cups on RPM's website. Do they make them? I don't like how easily the red cups break but still like the red.

[MikeWz]

Cave-Losi's are more popular at my track. Even in the electric class. The only AE that's more popular than the Losi is the new B4 buggy, but lots of guys are getting rid of them. The front of the battery holder tends to break pretty easy.

Racer-The only part I've ever broke was a front A-Arm because I so stupidly nailed the brakes way to hard while still in the air. I only wanted to bring the front down a bit but I did a nose dive into the ground on an angle and snapped it. These trucks will hold up just as good as any other out there.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Tons of Losi XXX-NT parts and a Killer Race Ready Losi XXX-NT on E*B*A*Y. My user name is xtremetxt on E*B*A*Y just search for XXX-NT.

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

not really sure if this question belongs here, but it ill just take a quick answer, maybe from our senior XXXNT pro "Got Speed" :D

I have a XXXNT sport, and I just ordered a OS cv engine for it. All I want to know is...do i need to buy different engine mounts or flywheel to use it on a starter box, and if so could you hook me up with the part numbers. Thank You. now I will be outta your hair and not bothering you lol. -J

[jasonrcfreak]

Here are my choices:
O'Donnell 20%
Sidewinder 20%

I've used O'Donnell before and have had no probs with it. Thinking about trying the Sidewinder for the heck of it. What do you guys think??

thx
J

[rhcsavage21]

wow this truck is awsome. after breaking in the engine it pulled wheeles right off the batt. i had some trouble with one of the screws. but thats all taken care of.if any one whants to know i give this a 100 out of 10 stars. its big and bad mo fo. and it is the bomb!!!:D :D

[cave]

LosiXXX-NTRacer
If you have the stock mounts and flywheel, you dont need anything else. Got Speed and I and many others run the Ofna Monster motored Pink box. Happy racing:D

jasonrcfreak
I use sidewinder fuel right now and I like it. I like trinity racings 20% ntro race fuel better. I notice I run faster and a bit cooler with it. The O"Donell is a dirty fuel, alot of racers swear by it. You wont hear any coolaid jokes with O'Donell. To messy for me. Its a good fuel tho. There is also a fuel called Maxi from Florida that I heard was pretty good. w.e.d. recamends it.

Happy 4th of July to you all. Be safe out there!!!!!!!!

GS what you doing for the fourth?

cave

[Saboteur]

Cave- I'll be in same situation in the future, thinking about what fuel to get. My LHS has blue thunder, O'donnells, Sidewinder and Powermaster. I'll go for the SW. For sure not many people use O'donnells as its been collecting quite a lot of dust and there way more bottles of Sidewinder, being stocked and sold. Also, I noticed I'll be saving myself some $$ in the future since no new engine mounts or changing the flywheel will be needed. WOOOOOOO!! :cool: :D

[cave]

Saboteur
This isnt spam bro.
If you can afford it get the Ofna Pink box with the front panel. You wont regret It. It always starts my truck and many others at the races. The whole deals here goea for around 130$. Gell batery, box w/ panel, glow ignighter and recharger. The ignighter is what really maters too. It gets that glow plug cherry red everytime!

I only tell I like something that I have tryed out for myself!

cave

[Saboteur]

Cave- I will when I get my chance to race. Right now its costly to take Mass transit to get to a track. Once I get my real car, then I'll be able to go to RC Madness or Xtreme RC Offroad track. For now its pure bashing and I'm cool with that. :)

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

Originally posted by cave
LosiXXX-NTRacer
If you have the stock mounts and flywheel, you dont need anything else. Got Speed and I and many others run the Ofna Monster motored Pink box. Happy racing:D

jasonrcfreak
I use sidewinder fuel right now and I like it. I like trinity racings 20% ntro race fuel better. I notice I run faster and a bit cooler with it. The O"Donell is a dirty fuel, alot of racers swear by it. You wont hear any coolaid jokes with O'Donell. To messy for me. Its a good fuel tho. There is also a fuel called Maxi from Florida that I heard was pretty good. w.e.d. recamends it.

Happy 4th of July to you all. Be safe out there!!!!!!!!

GS what you doing for the fourth?

cave


CAVE-
Thank you very much for the info......I do have the stock equipment, from the Mach .15, So, I will keep that in mind.

[cave]

Saboteur
There is this guy who takes like, 3 buses to get to the track then he gets halfway home before the buses stop running. he has to foot-it the rest of the way home. Now thats dedication. He races once a month lol. He lives on the west side of Pheonix in the 150 sumptin Avenues. Thats like alomost 1/8th of the way to Los Angeles. lol. :D

J If you could find some Trinity race formula fuel @ 20% nitro, give it a try. I think my truck loves it. Its hard to come by at the local track. Sidewinder is fast too. I do think the Trinity is a tad better tho. Got Speed just started runing O'Donell fuels. He may a better judge on that fuel. I think that Blue thunder stuff left tiny silica crystals in my motor. I wont be getting any more of that stuff.

[Saboteur]

Cave-Thats true, except its NOT gonna work for me. I dont even have a summer job as yet and cant afford traveling to such far places I never been before. Ill try to get a ride up there instead :) :rolleyes:

[cave]

Saboteur Thats funny bro I wasnt proding ya. When you mentioned Mass transit It just clicked. When you get a car or truck you be able to go anywhere you gas funds take you. I wasnt comparing ya. LOL. I got to learn to clarify;)
I wouldnt take 3 busses to go anywhere. 111° out today here in Mesa AZ. Id fry up waiting for that bus. Picture a couple of slabs of bacon sizzling. Yup. Thats hot... That kid just loves to race. I bet he ends up with a nice car someday.lol.

cave

[Got Speed]

LosiXXX-NTRacer- Thanks for the complement but there are many other knowledgeable people here too. :) As everyone has said though the stock mounts are fine.

jasonrcfreak- The sidewinder is pretty good fuel but I think when I used it my needle settings were a little touchier and it ran a bit hotter. Little difference. Right now I am liking Oddonell in my new engine other than the fact that it makes a big mess. If you are bashing and those are your two choice I'd go with Oddonell. Sidewinder is pretty low in oil. Only 8%. Sidewinder was pretty good. I won't comment too much on oddonell until I use more of it. So far my favorite is Trinity Platinum 20% for racing.

cave- LOL I'll be home rebuilding my NT with alot of thing that need replaced. Who is this kid that rides the bus to race? lol I rode the bus to buy parts today and that was bad enough. No way could I lug a whole truck load of RC stuff on the bus.

[dkj-M3]

I like O'donnel. Altho its the only fuel I've ever used, i have no regrets from it.

[jasonrcfreak]

Well, I went with the O'Donnell. It is kinda nasty, I've stained a few t-shirts with the stuff. The O'D was a couple of bux cheaper than the Sidewinder. They are both excellent quality so I don't think I could have made a wrong choice.

The only fuel I've ever had problems with was Traxxas, and I'll never touch that stuff again!

[Juice]

Guys, I just got me the Ofna true start chrome top box for my truck! Now everything is fine except how in the heck do you tighten the nut that goes on the end of the 12V starter motor?? There is no way to hold the shaft when you try and tighten the nut and all that happens is the shaft turns! Im stumped:confused:

[MikeWz]

Juice-Grrrr, I hate that box. Hopefully you'll have better luck with it than I have

I use Trinity platnum fuel and I love it. I add a very little bit of MMO to the bottle before I start using it, just to give a little extra lubrication, because it tends to be a little lower than other fuels, but gives awsome power

[Ford Racer#1]

Hey guys just put a down payment on a XXX-NT sport RTR im picking it up Monday nite. I was just wondering what type of fuel i should use for brake in with the mach .15. what hop-ups should i get first or does nothing brake often?? any help is grealty appreaciated

THNX ahead of time:D

[Ford Racer#1]

also just so you guys know im not new to the RC game. Im just a electric racer trying to get into gas cauze it looks a lot more funner and im getting this so i know the basics of gas, next year im probaly goin to sell it and get a Adam Drake edition. I am one the the top electric drivers at my LRT so i do know how to wrench on this stuff and i am a fellow motocross racer and love stuff that runs on a REAL engine ;)


THNX again

[jasonrcfreak]

well, I had to put two new shock cartridges on today. Got that done and now I"m charging the receiver battery. Can't wait til tomorrow! Now, if I can only keep the damn diff together! :D

[cave]

Ford Racer#1 welcome to the board. Make sure you tighten your diff correctly!!!!! do just like the Instructions say and you will be fine. On the spur gear you should just bearly slip at the slipper. This will save your diff from selfdestuction...Well if you run hard your gunna break parts like the front A arms, Battery box, rear pivot blocs. After you break the rear Pivot bock get a Aluminum one from Trinity racing or equivalent. Youll spend more money on it than plastic But I think you will understand why after you replace it once. Easier to replace rear A arms than Pivot blocks! good luck and let your slipper slip alittle... save that diff.

Did you race Stadium truck or buggy? what electric did you or still race?

Hey Ford Racer#1 What is the most popular nitro race truck at your track? Losi xxxnt or AE GT? or other? just wondering.

Glad you got the best of the best Nitro truck out there

cave

[rhcsavage21]

Ford racer#1- use blue thunder. it rocks. and use 20% it will make it scream. and my cosin is so impressed he might be switch ing to it from odonnel. i switch from monster horespower

[Got Speed]

Ford Racer#1- You may break alot or a little depending on how you drive. The things I break and see other people break the most often are: front suspension arms, rear axel carrier, rear pivot blocks, and ball cups and studs. I would run it and upgrade it when you break it. It isn't a weak truck but everything will break sooner or later.

cave- I may not be coming to the track after all tommorow. I got sick again Arg. :(

[Juice]

Originally posted by Juice
Guys, I just got me the Ofna true start chrome top box for my truck! Now everything is fine except how in the heck do you tighten the nut that goes on the end of the 12V starter motor?? There is no way to hold the shaft when you try and tighten the nut and all that happens is the shaft turns! Im stumped:confused:

Ummm I need help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Shady]

Man have i missed a lot on here....

On which truck is popular at my track it is by far the GT at every track i go to in my area

On gas, i run Sidewinder and love it, might be switching to OD soon, use to run BK but its hard to get around here, those are the only fuels i will run

[Got Speed]

cave- I'll guess I am going to make it to the track. I probably won't be there untill 3:30-4:00 though.

Juice- Could you show us a picture of it?

[tallcracker]

hey guys
i need to purchase the O.S. Cv-r from tower but i am confused as to what crank shaft i need. i am looking to order A.S.A.P. but i dont want to get the wrong one. could any one who has purchased this engine provide any model #'s and any additional parts i will need to make the standard clutch and flywheel fit would also be greatly appreciated.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by tallcracker
hey guys
i need to purchase the O.S. Cv-r from tower but i am confused as to what crank shaft i need. i am looking to order A.S.A.P. but i dont want to get the wrong one. could any one who has purchased this engine provide any model #'s and any additional parts i will need to make the standard clutch and flywheel fit would also be greatly appreciated.

I assume you are looking for a .12 CV-R. Here are the .12 CV-Rs that will work:

.12 CV-R std. shaft, rotary carb, non-pull.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=7 .

.12 CV-R std. shaft, slide carb, non pull.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ73&P=7

.12 CV-RX std. shaft, rotary carb, pull start.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA44&P=7

.12 CV-RX std. shaft, slide carb, pull start.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA45&P=7

Any of those will work. The slide carb versions will have a broader bottom end and top end. The rotary carb versions have a broad mid range but a narrow bottom and top end. Before I got a new engine I used the slide carb version myself. Rotary is easier to drive off-road but a slide carb is much more snappy.

[cave]

Got Speed I see you there. Hope your feeling better...

I used BT fuel for a while and found little crystals that had formed inside the carb and in my engine. I used only blue thunder fuel with no additives . I wont use it any more.. I E mailed them and got no responce.



cave

[Ford Racer#1]

hey again,

THNX for the replys guys they will really help.

i still run electric truck stock and mod but now im sellin my FT T3 as a roller and im already on the waiting list for a new T4. Here in Green Bay, ** i only seen like mabe 10 XXX-NTs and like 30 GTs
im getting a NT to be different from every one else

THNX again

I cant wait till Monday nite:) :D

[jasonrcfreak]

Well, boys and girls, I'm about to join the club of ex XXX-NT owners. I've spend hours and lots of $$$ on this damn thing and the same crap keeps on happening.

Truck made it through the first heat great. The new Collari ran like a bat outta hell. Won the heat. About halfway through the second heat the diff give out AGAIN!!! This is about the 3rd or so race in a row that I've had problems with it. I've been through it with a fine tooth comb...replaced parts etc etc. Rebuilt it according to the instructions. Adjusted on it......asked for help etc etc.

I'm out of options. I'm tired of pouring money into this piece of crap!! Will Losi wheels fit on GT's? I know GT's can come with 2 different sizes of axles.

I'll be keeping the engine and servos and radio equipment and tired and wheels if they'll fit. I've tried to be loyal to Losi, but I can't take this crap anymore!! I'm out of options.

[tallcracker]

thanks got speed! i was able to order my engine and i should have it by wed. hopefully i will be tearing up my local track in a week or so.

[purplerides]

Juice - i tightened mine by putting the wheel on there , and cocking it sideways some to stop the motor shaft from turning , then tightened the nut , once it gets a little tight hold on to the wheel and tighten the nut.

[Saboteur]

I got rid of that plastic diff nut holder and replaced it with a standard nut, a bit larger than the stock one used but it fits perfectly on the threaded part of the adjuster screw. After some romps it didnt seem to loosen at all. Remember the stock diffnut holder has those two pegs that fits inside the outdrives, so as it turns..so does the holder. With a single nut, it's not moved by anything at all. Been 3 or 4 runs and its still goin. :)

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by jasonrcfreak
Truck made it through the first heat great. The new Collari ran like a bat outta hell. Won the heat. About halfway through the second heat the diff give out AGAIN!!!

well did you try geting the robinson racing metal diff gear or is that what your using?

[pooldoc101]

savage- why don't you try tightening that diff more? You might lose some diff action, but at least you'll finish the heat! And after rebuilding your diff, run your truck for a tank, then recheck diff, it will loosen up.Pooldoc

[jasonrcfreak]

I kept the standard plastic diff gear. I figured that if I went with the metal, I'd just strip the plastic idler gear. I haven't taken it apart yet, but the guy who works at the LHS and who's opinion I trust, says it sounds like the idler gear that's stripped out.


I made sure to check and re-check and re-re-check the diff. I was watching it like a hawk. I got tangled up with someone in the second heat, which may have had something to do with it, I'm not sure.

I've put a lot of time and effort into this truck and it keeps letting me down time after time. :(

[pooldoc101]

Jasonrcfreak- how tight are you running your slipper, are you making sure the slipper slips before the diff? Pooldoc

[Shady]

well after a long hard battle for the lead in the A main last night i broke the yoke on the dogbone with less than a minute to go, well at least i still had enough points to hang on to win the points

jasonrcfreak-did you ever try the stuff from niftech, if you are having problems with the diff you really should try there stuff

[jasonrcfreak]

pooldoc-well, I started with the slipper all the way in and then 5 turns out like the manual says. Then I loosened it up about another 1/2 turn or so. It seemed to be doing ok. Front end still wanted to lift up a bit. The Collari has a lot of power so I took it easy on the throttle. Didn't hit full throttle but maybe a handufl of times.

As for the Niftech parts, I wouldn't mind trying them, I just can't justify putting even more $$$ into this thing than I already have.

[cave]

jasonrcfreak
There is a guy here in Scottsdale AZ who runs a Mugen in his AE GT He strips the diff in that gt too. That Motor (Collari) has alot of bottom end. No matter what truck you run your gunna have to tweek something on it to offset the torque of that engine. I had the same problem for a long time. I felt just like you. Got Speed helped me out here in Scottdale.

Before you domp the Losi try this. First when you change the diff gear replace BOTH plastic gears! replacing one is a big NO NO. the Idler gear may of sustained a flatspot and vise versa.After you get the differential together, Do the adjustment on the slipper all the way in then out five turns then, lossen it up a bit more. IVE BEEN THERE JASON! Now that the slipper is real loosetighten it up in small increaments. I mean tiny tiny adjustments. Its seems like alot of work but once you get that spot you like me will be running fast and reliable. When you test this out you should have alot of slippage. Then tighten it up till you slip just enough so that you dont spin out at take off. It take alittle time but once your there Its a breaze to adjust for track preference.
Jason, I felt just like at first. When I saw this guy Mayfield who is sponcered by Associated strip his Bullett proof GT diff with a Mugen I decided to give it a try again. This time I asked everyone there who had a Losi there advise. Got Speed, Ryan Mayfield, Frenchy, The guy in the wheel chair and many others. They all said the same thing. If you race with a highperformance motor your gunna break the weekest link. Thats what the slipper is there for. Please at least try to find that sweat spot before you give up the XXXnt. If you need help E amil me or Got Speed or pooldoc101 or MikeWz any one here on this board. We all try to help ya out. You can even go to Losi online for help if your more comfortable with them.

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

Cave-

The whole purpose of the slipper is to take pressure off of the diff, right?? Well, if If the slipper loose and it still stripped something......either the diff or the idler gear......not sure which yet, I dunno know what the hell happened. I'd rather start with the slipper loose.........the only disadvantage I see about running with a loose slipper is lack of traction. The diff itself seemed to be about the right setting.

I dunno if getting tangled up with someone might have had an effect on it or not. It crapped out on me after the pile-up. If finding the sweet spot on this thing is such a pain in the arse, maybe I should try something else.

This is getting absurd for this to be happening at such an alarming rate.

[speedydave]

Any of you guys ever drive a Mugen MST-1? How do the two compare, handling-wise?

[dkj-M3]

jasonrcfreak- I don't go by the # of turns for the slipper, but rather just test it to see if it slips. Hold the right wheel & at the same time put your index finger inbetween the spur & clutch bell. While holding them, turn the left wheel forward. If your slipper is loose enough you will see it slip, if not the diff will slip. You will either have to loosen the slipper until it slips just a little, or tighten the diff if it is too loose.

Check some of the other expirenced(sp?) racers diff, or have them check yours to get a feel for how tight/loose the diff should be, so you know how it should feel.

My diff last longer than my dog-bone pins & outdrives. There is no need to get hop-ups for the tranny, if it is set correctly. Losi has now fixed the diff nut problem, with a newly designed nut (same part #). If you do get the Metal diff gear, it would be easier to replace the idler gear, than a diff gear tho.

And always check the diff before every run.

Well thats the most babbling I've done in a while.:D Hope this helps.

Just my $.02

KJ

[jasonrcfreak]

Well boys and girls, I took it apart and the diff gear is toast...chewed up. Diff too tight? Slipper too tight?? Help!!

dkj- How do I see the slipper slip? What Should I look for?
When I had the slipper out about 5.5 turns, I held the left wheel and the slipper and the right wheel would barely turn. How do I know the slipper is moving?

Thx
J

[jasonrcfreak]

dkj- How do I see the slipper slip? What Should I look for?
When I had the slipper out about 5.5 turns, I held the left wheel and the spur gear and the right wheel would barely turn. How do I know the slipper is moving

[cave]

jasonrcfreak like I said previously, Ive Been there. I wanted to take mine out in the desert and shoot it!LOL but now that I found the spot I love this truck and wouldnt change. I understand if you do tho. 1st. Look at nut that you tighten the slipper with when holding the spur gear and right tire so both are unable to turn. grab hold of the left tire and turn it away from you as if it would under power. It should just bearly slip. Look at the slipper adjusting nut. This should be turning. You can see it turn just a bit. If it turns to easy tighten the slipper nut a bit. till it just hardley moves.
If you doubt what Im saying about the power of that motor let one of yopur AE GT buddies run it and see what it does to there diff. LOL. Its all in the adjustments.
I myself dont understand why Losi chose this type of Diff. It has caused us all alot of grief. BUT Today , Now, At this time my diff has Taken all the abuse others and muself has given it!

Got Speed, Was that the most Hacken you've seen there? Think I'll stay in the "B" mains. Just once I wish those Electric guys would bust a$$ for us Nitros the way we bust a$$ for them.

cave

[Carkar]

Hi guys. I am new here and also the new owner of a XXXNT Drake Edition. I have 3 tanks though my O.S. CV-R and hope to get more in soon so I can really run it. Earlier today I was wishing I had my XXX-T again but with a little tuning it is now running great. I just can't wait to get out to the track and local BMX park and let loose. The engine seems to have a ton more power on tap than any electric car I have driven and it's only a .12! This is my first nitro truck. I did get fuel down in the clutch after the first run and had to clean it out. Is this easy to do with the XXXNT? Sorry if I kind of jumped into the middle of a conversation, Im just really pumped about this new truck!:D

[Got Speed]

speedydave- I've seen them run and talked to a few people with them that have or had a XXX-NT. They drive very similar to the NT. The damping is a bit on the heavy side though with the 1/8 shocks. Most of them just drilled another hole into the piston. Otherwise they are pretty similar according to what I've seen and others who have had both say.

jasonrcfreak- Don't get rid of the Losi over the diff. There is no problem with their diff when it is adjusted right or if it isn't damaged. Here is what I suggest doing. Replace the idler gear, diff gear, balls, rings, thrust assembly, nut(make sure it is the new style nut), and bolt. It will cost about $30 or so but once you get it put back together you won't regret it. Plus it will be alot cheaper than buying a whole new truck. Put it together exactly as the manual says. Then the #1 most important thing to keeping a ball diff from stripping is to make sure the diff dosn't slip before the slipper. You do this by holding one wheel and the spur gear and turning the other wheel. The slipper plates should turn. If they don't tighten the diff a little at a time untill only the slipper plates turn. The diff can't slip at all. Now tighten it 1/16th-1/32nd of a turn more. The other thing you should do is replace the thrust assembly and diff nut every two gallons or so run on it to make sure they don't get old and cause the diff to loosen itself. I also check my diff every time I adjust the slipper and one or two times a race day to make sure I don't have my slipper tighter than the diff can handle or incase somthing has been damaged that would cause the diff to loosen. I hope this helped. :)

Carkar- Congrats on the new truck. You are going to love it.

[beachbum]

is there anyone that knows how to get more gearing for the
xxx-nt. i am trying some on-road tires,and with the small diameter it thows the gearing way off.i need some help please if anyone knows what i can do. thanks

[WheelNut]

Beachbum, I've been wondering the same thing. Mabye RRP sells new clutch bells. Or I would think Losi would sell different sized bells, but I've never seen any part numbers.

[WheelNut]

I found the losi clutch bells.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=description&pn=clutch+bell

Part numbers
17T-9380
18T-9381
19T-9382
20T-9383

[jasonrcfreak]

GS-
I just replaced the thrust assembly, nut, and bolt before this last weekend of racing. And the carbide diff balls are fairly new...plus they are around 12 bux so I'd like to keep them for now.

I'm obviously gonna have to replace the diff gear. Also the idler gear, even though there is no visible damage to it. Also new rings too.

What I can't figure out is how I can chew the hell outta the diff gear and there be no visible damage to the idler gear!

I'm starting to wonder if there might be a problem with the diff cases themselves or maybe the big bearings that hold the outdrives?? Maybe a problem with one or both of these things is causing the diff to wobble a little or causing the diff to be out of alignment?? I'm really starting to think this might be the problem cuz I've replaced every stinking part in the diff EXCEPT those two things!

[Got Speed]

sorry double post

[Got Speed]

jasonrcfreak- Ok, then they shouldn't need replacing. Check the thrust assembly though to make sure the rings arn't grooved. Try adjusting it as I posted above. Check the tightness 1 or 2 times once you first drive it again. If your slipper is so tight it makes turning the wheel really hard then you definatly have an overly tight slipper. I don't go by turns in or out. I go by feel. I start loose then tighten it down. By landing off a jump(especially if you are on the gas when you land) with the slipper so tight it will put all the shock to the tranny. The weakest gear in there is the diff gear. Start loose and then tighten it so you don't have it overly tight. The slipper is pretty forgiving as long as you arn't way off with the adjustment. The diff is a little less forgiving so adjust it as I posted above.

cave- Yea, those guys were terrible. That was some of the worst driving I've ever seen, lol. The B-Main was pretty clean though from what I saw of it. I wonder how many B guys got better lap times than the A guys. lol :p

[cave]

No body in the A main got more than 8 laps. Tony got 10 laps in the B. Less than 10 trucks in the B main too.

Jason did you have the 2 spacers that sit between the outdrive bearings? there thin washer type spacers that keep the side slop out of the diff.

cave

[cave]

After the two starting pile ups i just wanted to beat Frenchy. I did. I dont know where I passed him but I did. I got 5th or 4th he came in behind me. Or was it 7th Oh well. I'm used to the crappy marshaling. Just that thos guys that marshaled us were nitro guys. My buddy ernie on the crate wouldnt get up. We all where Teed a bit after that race.
I thought we got tied up in that first and second turn. Hope it wasnt me who caused you to break...

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

Are you talking about the very thin spacers that go over the outdrives and sit between the outdrives and the bearings?? The first time I took the diff apart, I only saw one. I'm looking at the manual on Losi's website and they are not showing the spacers/shims. That could be the problem.

[cave]

There is one shim on each side of the diff. In order. Assembled Diff in the center. then the spacers ( both sides ) then the bearings then the side cases

I Just looked at My Drake manual and there not listed. But they where with the kit. They fit snug around the out drives. they sit in between the outdrives and the bearings I swear. I have them. On both diffs.
cave

[jasonrcfreak]

any idea what the part number might be? I wonder why Losi doesn't show these shims/spacers on their online manual?

[cave]

I dont know. But I got them with the RTR and the Drake. I biult the drake and rebiult the RTR a couple of thousand times so I know there There. I told ya Ive been there Jason. LOL.

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

well, this truck started out as an ARTR version. I got it used. When I took it apart for the first time, I only noticed one shim. I'm searching for them on the website. I bet these little shims missing are causing my problems.

[cave]

Jason that could be it. I hope so. There is also the one on the slipper shaft between the gears and the bearing
Contact Losi and see if those parts were added to the RTR at a later dat. I got the Drake as a kit and the parts were there also.

cave

[Got Speed]

That is wierd. My drake manual doesn't show any shims. I didn't get any with my drake kit and don't run any on it. Mine fits in there snug and has no drag. They must have changed it somewhere along the way. I wonder which is the newer version.

cave- Yea, those A guys were rough. It wasn't you who made me break. I got spun around but after I got sorted out again this guy just flys up and T-Bones me which wasn't even what broke me. When he hit me it knocked me into the wall which broke me. oh well that's racing but that guy almost looked like he was out for hacking on people. :p I think next time I'm going to sign up later so I can drive on a wet track. It seems the 6th race is more clean than the 5th too. Maybe it's just me?

[beachbum]

wheelnut,

yeah, those are the stock losi clutch bells. you are going to need something bigger to run on-road tires. or else a different spur ,which they don`t make. there has got to be a way though,but i just don`t know how to do it.

[Got Speed]

beachbum- Those are losi clutch bells but the ones he listed are the different sized ones. The more teeth on the clutch bell the higher top end the less teeth on the clutch bell the better bottom end power.

[MikeWz]

You can run on-road tires without a problem. I've run both road hawgs and T-90's on my street without a problem. All you have to do is loosen the slipper up a bit or you can kiss your diff good-bye, cause it's gonna get eaten right up.

Carker-Congrats man. This is an awsome truck. I can't say that I've ever gotten fuel into my clutch, but I'm sure it'll happen eventually.

[Got Speed]

Carkar- How do you know you got fuel in the clutch? That is pretty hard unless you drop fuel right directly in the crack between the clutch bell and flywheel. It kind of shiedls it. If you did the easiest way it so take the slipper assembly off then pull the clutch bell off and clean the clutch then put it back on.

[Racin Rev]

W E D JIM WHERE ARE YOU?

[Carkar]

I guess I just splashed fuel on it. I really don't know for sure. I knew it had to be the clutch because the next time I drove the truck it reved and barley moved. So I grabbed the spur gear and pushed the truck; the rear tires didn't move so that ruled out the diff and slipper. I took the clutch out just like you said and sprayed the clutch bell out with motor spray and rescuffed the shoes. I runs like normal now, but the mystery still remains! :eek: Oh ya almost forgot! I'm going down to my local track with the truck for the first time tomarrow. I can't wait!:D

[cave]

Jason & Got Speed
I got the part number from bill g. of Losi ((( losa6230 )))

[jasonrcfreak]

Cave-

Just spoke to Bill w/Losi about the diff shims. He said in his experience that 99% of the trucks DO NOT use the shims. He said a little play is necessary to keep the diff from binding up. The shims can be used if necessary to take out some play that might have developed.

I just bought a complete tranny assembly, minus the actual diff assembly, off of Ebay. It comes with the cases, bearings, idler gear, shafts, etc etc. I'm going to rebuild the whole darn thing!

[jasonrcfreak]

Just got done tearing down my spare XXX-NT parts car so I would have parts readily at hand. I opened up the diff and LOOKY THERE!! :D The shims on the outdrives were there! So, when I put everything together in a couple of days, those things are definitely going in.

[Got Speed]

Carkar- That is really wierd. I've never seen that happen before.

jasonrcfreak and cave- I do remember now having shims that came with it. When I was building it I left them out because the tranny wouldn't spin freely with them and there was no slop side to side in the diff so I never put them in. I think I forgot was because I've never seen them in any package of diff parts any time I've re-built my diff. jasonrcfreak, I'd check to make sure it dosn't make the diff fit too tight before using them. Did the package off of ebay come with diff parts too?

[jasonrcfreak]

I'll definitely check the diff to make sure it's not binding with the shims in.

The parts I got off of Ebay did NOT include the parts of the actual diff........i.e..........diff gear, outdrive, rings, balls, thrust bearing assembly. The seller made that clear in his post.

I got new cases, bearings, idler gear, etc etc. I plan on using the outdrives from my parts car as they has less wear from the dogbones. I"m going to replace the rings, thrust assembly, and diff gear.

[Got Speed]

jasonrcfreak- Oh ok. One of those auctions from k p rc? He's a great guy to deal with. I got my stuff in 2 days from him. Hope the new diff and tranny work out for you. :)

cave- I won't be racing on the 19. I'll be racing on the 26th instead. I got the engine for my T-Maxx. I'm trying to get a crazy nut head off of ebay so hopefully I'll be able to race it. I'm bought a bunch of stuff that needs rebuilt so I'm going to put it all on and be ready to race next time. I found I had a lot of - toe on one wheel when I took it apart. :eek: I don't know how I missed that. I kept fumbling with the trim on the drivers stand trying to get it to center but it wouldn't. Sorry if I was kind snappy out there I started feeling pretty bad so I got a bit grouchy. I'll see you out there then.

[cave]

No prob GS I thought I may have been the one who broke ya. I got a message from Bill too. just the part # tho. I use them and the diff runs good.

cave

[FCACMilan]

I have a Team losi XXX-NT RTR, or whats left of a RTR, I have replaced all the suspention parts, bulk head, and anything else that is a vailable with grafite losi parts. I have just recently put an adam drake edition tuned pipe on it. since I have put the pipe on the truck has a proble keeping fuel going to the carb and there is alot of excess fuel comming out of the stinger. I am not sure if I push the fuel line to far into the pipe or what or maybee I had to much fuel line from the tank to the pipe, Someone also sugested that I replace the factory tank with the drake eddition tank and that will fix it. Please help me I have been Itching to get back on track. any other sugestions are also welcome. thanks.

[Got Speed]

FCACMilan- There is no diference between the drake tank and the RTR. They are both the same. Losi makes a new style tank which dosn't have the problem the old ones do of flooding the pipe and engine. I ran the old tank for quite a while without any problems. Then all of the sudden it started giving me problems. I bought the new one and it solved my problem.

[Ford Racer#1]

hey guys i need help again,

well i picked up my rtr yesterday and i was not able to brake it in not even start it since its pourin out rain here:( . but anyways while i was checkin out the truck for anything wrong i found on my lap a piece of metal that almost looks like a clutch sleeve. but i thought that cant be since the clutch sleeve is inside screwed in somewhere. can anyone help me with there experinces with there rtr?? also i didnt think the rtr included the old style XR2

anyhelp is greatly appreaciated

THNX before hand

[Ford Racer#1]

also to add to this list of bad stuff is even thou i didnt start the engine i did put in batts. and set up my radio in it and when i pull full throttle (which i did only once or twice) the needle hits the body and stops it from goin further what should i do?

[Saboteur]

I bought a Sport RTR used for $200. Yeah the throttle linkage does hit the body a little but it doesnt stop it from fully extending. As for that metal piece, the stock clutch shoes are that vespal style. It's similiar to some of the kyosho clutches having that single piece spring wrapping around both shoes and hooking together. As far as I'm concern, there arent any clutches I know that have sleeves. Take a picture of the object and post it so we can see what it looks like or briefly describe it. The stock XR2 am radio is fine. I like the looks better than the I series..which are basically the same. The XR2 may be an AM radio but my system hasnt glitched once and it has lots of adjustments. Cant wait to race my NT at a track! :D

[Ford Racer#1]

i dont have a digital camara but here is a description:

its about 1 millimeter long and its made out of aluminum or metal not sure but it is silver and the diameter is a little smaller than 1 mill. long

the thickness of the material is about .1 of a millimeter

sorry im usin millimeter as a unit but its the smallest unit i could think of

[Saboteur]

Wow that's one small object. I'm assuming you used a ruler to measure its dimensions. I have no clue what it could be though. :confused:

[cave]

FCACMilan
et the new style tank. It has the presure nipple on the filler cap. This will solve your prob.

Ford Racer#1 sounds like somemflashing got left in there. It may of been in the packing. Dont forget to read the entire instructions. This will add life to your XXXnt specialy the diff.... I still use the XR that came with my rtr on my Drake and Its not to bad fior racing. Alot better than all the other radios that came with the RTRs out there. my throttle linkage also hit the body. No problems tho as it was so little of a touch.

cave

[jasonrcfreak]

The guy I bought the parts from is from your neck of the woods.......eeeerrrrrrrrrrr..........desert!! :D He's from Mesa. I think the Ebay I.D. is acc4less. He's got thousands of feedbacks at a 100% rating.

[Racin Rev]

Got Speed,
can you list the problems that you had that finally made you ditch the tank?

[Carkar]

I have had my O.S. CV-R flood a lot and also have large amounts of fuel in the pipe after I run my Drake edition. Can I get a parts number and price on the new tank? Thanks Got Speed!:) I hope this will solve my problem.

[Got Speed]

Ford Racer#1- Sounds like some flashing to me. You probably ended up getting an older model that had the XR2 instead of the XR2i.

jasonrcfreak- Oh ok, just curious. Does he sell lots of NT parts? If so, I may try buying stuff from him if he has good prices(no shipping that way, lol).

Racin Rev- My engine would flood constantly. The pipe would fill with fuel and flood onto the ground. It wouldn't run very long upside down. Sometimes it would tune/run a little erratic. I heard of this problem a lot before I had it so I bought the new tank as soon as I could and it solved my problem.

Carkar- I'm sorry I don't have a parts number handy. If you have an e b a y account look on there for XXX-NT or XXXNT. You will find a guy that is selling the graphite center brace and fuel tank for $17. His name is t p rc. If you do that make sure to specify you want the new style tank.

[maxman142001]

everyone- dont you guys think someone should make a aluminum clutch for the xxx-nt.:) I see a lot of new offroad cars using them and they deliver snippy performance. Any thoughs.;)

Thanks
Leland

[Laterilus]

Hey everyone, thought this would be the place to get an answer to my question. I recently purchased an Omega/Picco XT .12 engine for my XXXNT. I already own a Losi rear exhaust header from using my Fantom rear exhaust engine, but for some reason, this header doesn't fit the Omega. The port on the Omega is much smaller in diameter and the header jiggles around too much on the port of the engine. Even using the gasket the Omega came with doesn't help. It is too small. I also have the AE header and that header has the same size of the Losi header so it seems like Omega has some sort of port size different from the standard one used by other companies. I figure if I can get an exhaust gasket with a small inner diameter for the engine but a large outer diameter to fit the header, I'll be fine... Anyone else use this engine or one similar to it with a small rear exhaust port? Any ideas on a company that makes a gasket that would work? Maybe I need to change headers? I know one of the Mugen MST-1 kits comes with the MT-12 engine. Does the MT-12 engine have the same small exhaust port as the Omega? Maybe Mugen's rear exhaust header would fit better? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[cave]

The Mugen header is the same as the Losi header. ID and OD The difference is the Mugen header totally covers the rear exaust port.

cave

[racer2]

hey guys i found a guy on ebay that is selling a new fuel tank and center brace. The fuel tank has the filler cap pressurize line tap.
for all the guys that want a new tank:rolleyes:
the guys ebay name is acc4less.

new tank (http://**************/ws/*******************************3137929091&category=34063)

[winning edge designs]

I have also found the new tanks at JR Hobbies in kissimmee FL as well as Superior Hobbies Casselberry Fl.......:), Jim

[Racin Rev]

WED

good to see you back! you been on a month long vacation or something. Or maybe you went pro like Aaron waldren and quit coming to the forum. :D

[winning edge designs]

Racin rev, No, just been swamped at work, running my own auto repair shop, restoring old cars and painting bodies on the side, working on things inside the R/C industry as well, trying to squeeze in some family time, >whew<!..........Just haven't been able to get on any R/C sites. Haven't even been able to race the last 3 weeks, ouch!.......ttyl, Jim

[mx416]

I finally raced my truck today! It's been about 2 years since I've raced in dirt and about six months since I raced last, which was on carpet. The track doesn't have computer lap counting so they asked which heats I wanted to run. I decided to race in B since its been a while. I won 2/3 heats. The other one I broke, the shock shaft pulled out of the plastic piece that attaches to the arm. In the B main I ended up winnin also. It was fun.

There were only 2 losi gas trucks there and they handled 10 times better than the AEs on the rough track at the end of the day.

[Racin Rev]

According to Losi the failure of the plastic piece which the shock shaft attatches to is rare, however, I have broken two this season. I did change over to Ti nitride shafts but that shouldn't matter. has anyone else had a lot of problems with this.

[speedydave]

I drove a Drake yesterday, and I must say, it was much, much more predictable and hooked up than my GT ever was. I want one really bad(the same guy is selling a stock Drake roller he never used, but got used from the local fast guy, for $150...sound fair?), but I'm not sure I can afford two classes right now, especially since I JUST got an MBX5. I definitely do like this truck though, and I'm glad i finally got to drive one. :)

[Saboteur]

Well its about time speedy! LOL! :D If ya done that sooner you would have still been racing 1/10th stadium truck, but its ok. If you have any other rc's you want to get rid of, sell them and try to work up some cash on the side to support both vehicles. I also like the losi's handling myself (sport NT here) and sure have no intension of changing vehicles when I go to race. Dont worry about that nonsense of NT's being fragile. If you drive hard enough you will surely break something no matter what vehicle it is. :) BTW used for $150 sounds fair. What's it coming with?

[Scrad]

Is anyone here running their truck on a parking lot road course?

My LHS dirt season is on a break and the parking lot season started. So I'm racing my Xray and my NT. But last time I ran the NT it would always spin out when I got on the gas. If I took the corners slow it handled good, but when I was pushing the truck it would spin out. I have the wheel base short and have tried different springs and shock positions, but it doesn't seem to help much. The only thing I can think of is the clutch engages at too high an RPM and puts too much power down and the wheels spin. Or my tires are working good enough. I have the speedhawgs I think.

Any ideas or anyone have a set up they use for onroad? Thanks....

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Saboteur
What's it coming with?

Everything the kit had. It's a 100% stock Drake, built and raced by a local fast guy(it's used, but definitely not abused). Comes with the old-style Losi(from the original XXXNT kits) pipe and header, so I'll replace those, but the header probably wouldn't have stayed anyway, going either Wasp or MT12, but I STILL haven't decided. I wish the stock carbs were worth keeping though. Gotta spend money on an OS carb...:( Or I could get a TR, but that's an onroad engine, so I'm kinda worried about cooling issues, and what kind of powerband it's going to have.

[ross]

Originally posted by speedydave
I drove a Drake yesterday, and I must say, it was much, much more predictable and hooked up than my GT ever was. I want one really bad(the same guy is selling a stock Drake roller he never used, but got used from the local fast guy, for $150...sound fair?), but I'm not sure I can afford two classes right now, especially since I JUST got an MBX5. I definitely do like this truck though, and I'm glad i finally got to drive one. :)


I am in the exact same boat has you. I drove a mates Drake at the track and thought it was awesome. My GT is now up for sale and then Ive got enough to buy a drake, new radio etc. I also thought they were much more predictable and more stable around the corners than the GT's.

So once Ive got my drake, you'll be seeing alot of me in here!

[maxman142001]

Gotspeed and Cave- How are you guy dealing with this HEAT?

[Saboteur]

Speedydave- I know some people that have the wasp .12se on their ride, an rb c12 and the mt12. Really great engines. No need for swapping carbs there. :) As for the .12tr, some said its pretty good. Just remember all these engines will be a heck lot faster once in your ride and surely would have the front end lifting up in the air. You could try a fantom though. Its very reliable, cheap rebuilds and faster than a cvr.

Scrad-Try to loosen up the slipper clutch a bit. That should do the trick. Once thats done you can work on the shock setup and tires if necessary.

[Got Speed]

speedydave- $150 for a drake sounds pretty good as long as it isn't really worn. Just because it is listed as on-road because of a slide carb dosn't mean that it can't be used for off-road. Many people I know(and myself) use slide carbs for off-road. You get a wider bottom end and top end whereas rotary carbs have a better mid-range. An slide carb engine isn't any harder to cool than a rotary carb. As long as you have them tuned right any of the engines you listed will work great.

Scrad- If the engine puts too much power to the wheels then get a lighter clutch spring or shave some material off the clutch shoes.
If you are racing on-road you would want a stiffer suspension and a lower ride height than off road. For on-road a more horizontal shock angle is probably going to be better too.

maxman142001- I don't have any problems with heat. I usually run my engine a little cooler than it likes to be run to take away some of the punch that sends me into the walls. During the summer mine usually likes to be run between 235-245. I usually run it about 220.

[Scrad]

GS-I've done all of that with the suspension. I have green and silver springs on it and have tried all the springs that I have. I have a CV-R with a carb restrictor and the thing still has too much low end punch. So if I take some material off the clutch shoe where do I need to take it off at. Obviously the inside, but where at exactly.

[maxman142001]

GS- What is the track temp. like at around 6pm?

Leland

[mx416]

Scrad - For onroad the try using orange springs and go to 40wt oil all around. You want your shocks to be mounted on the outside hole in the arms. Just keep messing with the spring preload. Thats makes a huge difference. Try lowering the spring clamps and raising them. Just be patient because it is very hard to get trucks set up for onroad.

[speedydave]

Got Speed, yeah, carbs don't make a difference as far as cooling goes, and I've tuned both rotary and slide carbs before, so I know they aren't difficult to tune. My comment about cooling was specific to the TR. If you look at the CVR's head, and then look at the TR's head, you'll notice the TR's head is shorter, which leads me to beleive that the TR would be better suited to onroad, because in onroad the speeds are faster, which means better cooling, so the heads are shorter. Kinda like why the MT12 Big Head engine was made. If it weren't for the head, I'd be all over the TR.

[cave]

maxman142001 It was real hot at 6 pm. On Thursday twas around 112°. On Saturday eve. around 106°. Lots of WATER and a Eazy up for shade. GOT SHADE LOL. I gots to make that sticker.

w.e.d. Nice to see ya back. Hope your Biz is doing good. Sounds like it is.

speedydave You wont regret it... If your as agressive as I am now, You will break. Ive been purdy lucky. I havnt broke a part in 2 race days. I'm do lol. I did se a GT loose its battery pack and drage it till it cut loose tho. LOL.

cave

[cave]

speedydave
I love my slide carb. Its alittle snappy but I get the hole shots alot easier.. Its all in the slipper adjustment.

Any of the above .12 will be awesome.

ross you wont regret it.

cave

[FCACMilan]

Does anyone have the part number for this new fuel tank?

[winning edge designs]

The new tank is a running change, so it's under the same part number I believe. You do need to make sure your getting new stock from wherever you order it, they may be still unloading old units, especially mail order joints!....Jim

[stefcold]

Any breakin advise, I've just got a new FR12 '03 for my brand new Adam Drake XXX-NT,

My only other breakin experience (or nitro experience) was with my MACH.15 that came with my last truck the XXX-NT Sport. I don't know if it was my breakin or what but that engine only lasted 1.5 gallon.

Any help would be appreciated, I want this engine to last longer!

Stef...

[Got Speed]

I havn't been getting any post notification emails. I am the only one who isn't getting emails from this thread?

Scrad- What tires are you running? How low is your ride height? You shouldn't need any restrictor if you have the right tires and suspension set up.

maxman142001- I don't know for sure usually in the 110ish area.

speedydave- Oh ok. I've seen some TRs run in off-road and heard of several using them and none of them seem to have overheating problems. IMO the MT-12 would be better. Since it is about the same price but it has more bottom end and a good top end.

stefcold- What kind of fuel were you using? Do you have a temperature guage? I've seen so many people have engine that only last about a gallon becuase of running it way to lean during break-in and normal running. I helped a guy finish breaking in his engine several months ago and when I first went up to help him I checked how hot it was. 280!

[stefcold]

I'll be running Sidewinder Race Formula (20% nitro and 12% oil). I'll be borrowing a temp gun from a friend during the breakin. After that I'll probably buy a Venom temp gauge.

I'll be trying to run the engine around 205F during the breakin. But the instruction from the engine only suggest to run 4 tanks. Also I've heard of running the engine at idle and preforming heat cycle.

Stef..

[Got Speed]

stefcold- You definatly shouldn't idle through break-in. Some people will idle just there first tank and others will imedeatly start driving. Run on a flat surface smooth surace and don't punch the throttle ease on and off of it. Here is how I do it:
1st- Idle for half a tank(it should get up to 200-210(this will depend alot of weather but try and keep it above 200 and lower than 220. Without stopping the engine start driving up to 1/4 throttle trying to hit every RPM range up to 1/4 throttle(should stay around 200-210). Right before the tank runs dry shut it off. Let it cool untill it reaches about 140 or so(make sure when it is cooling that the piston is at bottom dead center(bdc)).
2nd tank- Try and keep it from 205-215 if you can and drive about 1/3 throttle(Pulling the trigger slowly is the trick here. You want to hit every RPM range up to 1/3 throttle). Right before the tank runs dry shut it off and let it cool again(always with the piston at BDC).
3rd tank- Try and run between 210-220. Get as far as 1/2 throttle. Before the tank is dry shut it off.
4th tank- Get as far as full throttle for only a second or two. Keeping the temps between 215-225 if you can. Shut off before the tank is dry.
5th tank- Here is where you get it near a race tune and get the temps above 220 and below 240. Get as far as full throttle where you can hold it for 2 or 3 seconds(remebering to go very slowly on the trigger).
6th, 7th, 8th, ...- Get it tuned to where you want to use it at regularly and run it on the track or wherever you plan to use it at. Some engine take longer than others to fully break-in but at this point it is just a matter of running it. Everybody has their own opinions and own "proofs" about break-in but I am very pleased with my engines that I have done this way.

[jasonrcfreak]

Hi guys. I'm running a Collari-Picco .12 rear exhaust, rotary carb in my NT. I've been using an Associated blue pipe on it. I'm thinking about trying either a Paris Turbo Ring or a Fantom Dual Chamber on it. Any recommendations??
thx
J

[cave]

jasonrcfreak the Drake pipe is awesome. Save your money and try it. You wont regret it. The works pipe has a great sound. Frechy runs one at the track.

[Ford Racer#1]

hey guys,

i need help yes AGAIN lol. first time racing my sport was yesterday and it went well intill the a-main i broke a a-arm (stock ones are weak!!) well anyways thats not my problem my problem is when i go half throttle (startin today) theres a noticeble high pithced noise. im not sure what it is can some one help me??


THNX ahead of time

[cave]

Its possible your too lean. Whats your temp at. What motor ya got? Your A arms are only strong if you stay off the boards.lol. If you dont crash you dont break. lol J/K Ford Racer #1

[Anton-C]

well i just got back from vacation on wed, and the first major thing i did other than sleep was go to an actual track for the first time with my xxxnt sport, it was running awesome and, i feel so proud.......
i broke my first part:D no but seriously i went off a huge triple and landed on my front wheel, at first i thought everything was fine because i drove away, but then i realized that my wheel was at a dangerous angle..........
so i bought some lunsford titanium turnbuckles.:D

now after my rambling i need some advice

when my mach 15 goes, i will probably just buy a whole new engine and not even bother rebuilding it, is the dynamite .12 spd good, the guy that owns the track runs one and it looked really nice

sorry for the rambling

[Got Speed]

jasonrcfreak- The drake pipe really is a great pipe. It is a very good all around pipe. About equally ballanced between bottom end and top end. The works pipe does really sound cool but I havn't actually run one yet to feel the performance difference. IMO which pipe you choose isn't a big deal. As long as you have a decent pipe. Decide between what you would rather have bottom end or top end? Or a good ballance between both. Hope this helped.

Ford Racer#1- Any truck will break if hit hard enough. One time you may get lucky one time you may not. If you don't mind the extra weight there are several companies who make alum. arms, shock tower, pivot blocks, axel carriers, etc. at fairly good prices. The extra weight can actually be a good thing if you arn't a really good driver. I have times when everything seems to break. LOL ask cave. I've been breaking alot lately. hehe

Anton-C- lol "rambling" is what the board is for. Anyway I wouldn't suggest the spd .12. I won't say it is a bad engine but it is one of the least powerful and slowest .12s around yet goes for the same price as many others. You can get a CV-R for about the same price. You should look around a bit first to find what you really want. There are really alot of good choices. What are you looking for in a new engine? Power? Ease of tuning? Fuel economy? Hope this helped.

[ultramindbrk]

Alright man...I have toasted 2 differant sets of brake hub assembly gears diff gears..I know they make aluminum brake hub gear right? But what about a diff gear,or is it vise versa? If anyone knows where I can purchase these,that would be super...Thanks..

[cave]

Got Speed you had a great run of not breaking parts.lol. All the drivers are getting more aggressive. So we all are breaking alittle more often. I've been lucky. so far. Maybe itll run out on Saturday.:D

Ive seen the different pipes out at the track. Always seams to be a new one there. There are some good ones for top and bottom . The Drake seams to be well balanced. At our track the Drake has the edge. If your track is a high speed track get the pipe that makes power there. vise versa for the bottom end. There are 2 highspeed sections and a whole lot of tecnical sections and some killer jumps that require bottom to mid power. The Drake works for those.

cave

[RCRACER2471]

Ive come to another problem with my Losi...Very strange too....What happened is that i noticed my truck was showing slugish performance so i checked out the clutch just for the heck of it and found out that the clutch broke and the flywheel pins broke also which is the reason why the clutch broke. What scared me the most is that the flywheel pins were draggin on my crankcase of the engine and tore up part of it. I have no clue how all of this happened but i need new parts for it.

For the flywheel, Is the MIP heavyweight one any better than the stock one? Also does MIP also make a clutch for my truck?? Im not sure if they do or not. I just want something reliable where ill never have this problem ever again...

BTW, i was also thinkin about getting the drake pipe. I have the original XNT and wanted to see if that pipe would boost my performance at all. Also is there any other after market chassis i could get for it besides the drake?

Sorry for such a long post and all these questions but it happened to have all occur at the same time....

[racer2]

Got Speed- I have both the Dynamite .12spd and .12s and they are both great engine. A lot ok people at my local track have them 2. They are fast and some-what powerful, i can win with my car. I really haven't had any problems on the .12spd engine. They are ok engines i like them.:rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

ultramindbrk- If you diff is too loose and you have a metal gear it will melt the idler gear. Make sure you diff is tight enough by making sure the slipper slips before the diff.

cave- yea I was pretty lucky untill about a month ago when I broke 7 parts. lol I think some of the parts were just getting worn out so they broke easier. I've replaced alot of things now. I rewired my starter box and now the power panel works just fine. I went over it several times to see what caused it not to work but I couldn't find anything. It works fine now though.

RCRACER2471- That is a very strange problem. I don't really think the MIP flywheel is any better other than in looks. How seriously damaged is the crankcase? I like my drake pipe a lot. It seems very well balanced for most tracks. You can change the top and bottom end a little by changing the gap between the pipe and header. There is a carbon fiber chassis and there is the JT racing lightened chassis. The drake is a great chassis. The JT is the same thing with little parts where it has been lightened. The carbon fiber is real lightweight but because of that can cause a loss of traction.

racer2- Like I said. I don't think they are bad engines just not very powerful. If you're a good enough driver you can win with just about anything.

[RCRACER2471]

Got Speed- The crankcase isnt damaged too bad but did a good job at it just from a flywheel pin spinningif you know what i mean....I may just buy a fantom and use my O.S. as a spare or sell it.....

The drake does seem like a good chassis. Do u have a link for the JT one. I remember seeing a new chassis for the XNT in one of the past RCCA issues but i cant find it. Is that the one your taking about?

[cave]

RCRACER2471
The stock flywheel is awesome no need for anything other. The reason a stock flywheel looses its clutch pivot points is because the post loosens up from the flywheel.. i use CA on them. I have had one ease out and destroy a MIP cutch set. That was before I CAed the pivot post. Did you loose the bearings too? I changed all of the parts in-between the c clip and the case except the pilot shaft and outer spacer. As Got Speed said, The drake is an good all around pipe and it also has that adjustabuility that I had totally forgotten about.
HTH--->H ope T his H elps:D

cave

[ultramindbrk]

I appreciate the replies...I would still like a link to the place I can purchase the alluminum diff gear...:D

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

cave & rcracer2471-Ever since I noticed both pivot pins backing out on my 2nd son's XXXNT Sport (but before they started dragging on anything-WHEW!), I've used blue Loctite (sp) on the pivot pin threads on his truck and on the other two XXX's in the family fleet.

[cave]

xxxOS12CVRnt Thanks, I ve had bad luck with red and blue Loctite. I havent had a problem since I use CA glue. Maybe Ive been lucky. I have Mugen MT.12 inm my Drake and It takes alot of punishment from my Drivin skills.lol. Ive learned to ease off the trigger but I love that power take off the Mugen offers. this creats alot of force on the entire drive trane. Including the clutch pivot points. Maybe I put the loctite on a dirty or oily part. Im not quit sure but CA is OK for me today.

Got speed You planning to be at SRS Saturday?

cave

[RCRACER2471]

Cave- when I first got the kit i found of that some pieces are already built from the factory. The flywheel was one of them. So i didnt think i would need to do anything to it. Now I know. The good news is that I didnt loose the bearings but i did tear up part of my crankcase from those stupid pins falling out......

So would the MIP clutch be any better than the stock one if I put CA glue on the flywheel pins?

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by ultramindbrk
I appreciate the replies...I would still like a link to the place I can purchase the alluminum diff gear...:D

heres yous aluminum diff: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RRP9500

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- That is what I did. I bought a picco and am rebuilding my O.S. to keep as a spare. I'm sorry I don't have a link to the chassis. I think RCCA had the CF and JT racing chassis in their mag. I've only seen them on ebay but I know JT racing dosn't only sell them on ebay. BTW: If you have an e bay account there are some great deals on new stuff. I've seen the CF and JT chassis for $60 and the Drake for $20.

cave- No, I'm not going to be there. I'll be out of town. I will be there for the next 2 weeks in a row though. I got my engine back from traxxas broke it in and bought a cooling head for it. I think I'm going to be able to race it too. :p I've got some of those TRC tires coming too. I'm going to try them out next week.

RCRACER2471- IMO the MIP flywheel only looks better than the stock one. No performance advantage. The stock one is fine.

[Saboteur]

WOW! Just came back from a big bash fest with my sport nt. Man does it handle and really soaks up the tall plush grass. I did some doughnuts in one section of the baseball field that REALLY stirred up some dust..till the point I couldnt see the truck for 7 seconds! Did crash couple times running straight off the dirt into the grass. Only managed to get a foot of air and it did flip several times. Nothing broke..even at the speeds I was driving. I'm really pleased with my stadium truck! Speed isnt really a concern. 30-38mph is fine with me and the sport nt tackled the terrain with ease and gave me supurb handling. Right now its very dusty so gonna let the engine rest and dust it later. Need to recharge the glow ignitor before I head out again. W00t!!!!! :D x100

[Shady]

the MIP flywheel is a small bit heavier, that is the only real difference besides looks

the MIP clutch IMO is a lot better in durabilty, it seems to last longer than the stock one

[RCRACER2471]

I just ordered both of the stock parts being the flywheel and the clutch. Hopefully this time they will hold up better.....

[cave]

RCRACER2471 I use the stock Flywheel with the Mip clutch shoes and I use the Losi clutch spring. I like this set better than the mip spring. I has a better take off with the losi spring.

Saboteur I'm so glad your happy with your ST...

Got Speed Man we are gunna miss ya. we may race Saturday. My AC is out on the house so I may not make it. We shall see. 117° and no AC arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr ratz
not to mention its humid out too...

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Did you notice any differences with the MIP clutch other than it being easier to adjust? yea lol, I know I rode my bike to the post office tuesday when it was 118 out here in the valley of the sun stroke. I should have almost everything rebuilt and working good again so I hope to see you out there next saturday. :)

Is everybody's email notification working right? Mine isn't working any more but I am still subscribed to the thread.

[cave]

GS I get my notifications all the time. Empty your cache and see if that helps. When they revamped the forum I had to resubscribe to this thread page.
Its real hot without A C. GS. I may not make it on Saturday. I have to fix my AC. there goes another 500 bux. Home ownership. one of the drawbacks.:mad:
we'll see ya week after this. later.

cave

[cave]

xxxOS12CVRnt
Thats so cool that your have a family of RCers. Do you all race together?

ultramindbrk Ive heard good thing abouthe aluminum diff gear and bad thinks about it. Ive heard more bad things tho. My nephew Tony was forced to use as he got it for free at the track. he has had good luck with it. we really dont know if he has lost any power to the wieght difference. So far so good. I myself havent had any problems with my diff since I found the sweet spot between diff adjustment and spurgear slippage. I like the fact that if the plastic gears strip Thats all I have to replace.
G/L
cave

[Canucksk]

I just took my LOSI XXX-NT out for a bashing run to test my new 6061-T6 front skid plates. They are top notch and work great. Much better than the stock skid !

RCSKIDZ (http://www.rcstop.com/rcskidz)
http://www.rcstop.com/rcskidz/plateonlosi.gif

[cave]

Thats purdy nice. I need one that connects to the chassis for better protection. I made one for my RTR and it was awesome. It did the job. I just got lazy since it got hot here. Wish they made one like that. I get one for the drake. It really helped keep the front end down when powering into the big jumps...

GS see ya in a week. I may not make it out today (SAT) I got my AC to work But I'm still going to replace parts as soon as the guy gets here. It may take all day. EEEEERRRR HOT HOT HOT inside. I lost water weight lol. Sweaty night.lol. 102° inside last night & humod :(

cave

[winning edge designs]

Cave, I feel your pain, my TV went out so my 1/8th scales for sale on E bay, heh....The XXX-Nt stays though! LOL!.....:), Jim

[RogueRacing]

does anyone have any ideas on preventing the front bulkhead from stripping out? I've tried tapping and bigger screws and i still manage to strip out the rearward screw on the front bulkhead. Does someong make 4-40 inserts or somthing i can put into the holes?

[dkj-M3]

i use the losi 4/40 7/8" for the rear slots & have never stipped it out.

[jasonrcfreak]

well, boys and girls, may diff actually stayed together last night!!! I ran the slipper loose as hell. I could he it slipping a little from the driver's stand.

I won all three of my heat races and came in 3rd in the main. I was in 2nd but crashed not far from the finish line. :( I'm pretty happy overall though, esp. since I didn't strip another stinking diff gear!! :D The 2 guys that beat me usually run "pro class" but had to run with us sportman since not enough "pro class" guys showed up.

[winning edge designs]

Sweet Jason, good job!

The diff setting is critical in the XXX-NT, but once you have a feel for it(or know someone who does) it's like butta! ....to summarize all our diff discussions, set the diff very snug, tighter then you would an electric diff, but not locked. Trying to lock it results in a stripped diff nut, those who have stripped them, have overtightened. Once set, adjust the slipper to slip a little easier then the diff.....The trick is to recheck these adjustments after a few minutes of running the first time after a rebiuld, then after each heat during normal maintanence.

It's actually very simple, but stubborn people, like myself, have the hardest time setting it any different then other cars until they melt a few........Strangely enough, I learned this after melting only one, since it's not a fun chore to redo. People who complain about durability vs. other trucks must not have seen the GT's stripping spurs before they changed the design(trans brace), or idler gears after that and still now.................Nothing is perfect, but the XXX-NT is close!......:), Jim

did I mention i'm also using lunsford super duty turnbuckles and Proline T maxx ballcups in the rear?.....haha

[dkj-M3]

did I mention i'm also using lunsford super duty turnbuckles and Proline T maxx ballcups in the rear?.....haha

same here. the t-maxx ends will develope some slop in them over time & will need to be replace or they will eventually snap out the ball. But its easily the best & strongest set-up i have found to work, compared to others.

[cave]

winning edge designs, So good to here from you. My TV was blinking last nite. When it rains it pours.lol. The heats not to bad but the humidity sucks. We have so many good drivers here at SRS that one mistake will cost you the race. My diff case cracked and I lost my lower brake parts ao I replaced the Dff with my RTR complete diff. I left my slipper a tad bit too loose and stripped the spur gear in the B main. I was in 1st for a while till I heard that engine scream. Once I replaced the spur gear that Drake of mine hauled. Cant wait till next Saturday.

Got Speed Hope you make it out.


cave.

[Racin Rev]

has anyone else had problems with their collet/flywheel slipping? I know that it is tight because i have rounded off allen wrenches tightening it. Still it slipps. It has done this about five times in a season and a half. the last time it lasted only a race and a half.

Is the nose too long or the gap too small to clamp the shaft properly?

Another guy at the track is having problems too.

[Got Speed]

cave- I'm glad I got to get away from the heat for a few days. I've been in Flagstaff for a few days. I'll see you out there saturday.

jasonrcfreak- Great. Good job. The losi diff is pretty strong you just have to find that spot. Once you do it is great.

WED- Do you run longer turnbuckles or are you just running the stock ones on the inside hole on the tower and carrier?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Racin Rev
has anyone else had problems with their collet/flywheel slipping? I know that it is tight because i have rounded off allen wrenches tightening it. Still it slipps. It has done this about five times in a season and a half. the last time it lasted only a race and a half.

Is the nose too long or the gap too small to clamp the shaft properly?

Another guy at the track is having problems too.

Sorry didn't see your post. I've only gone through one collet on mine. I bought a new one and didn't have a problem any more. Did you replace the collet when it was slipping? If not, that is probably your problem.

[racer2]

Racin Rev- I also have been having trouble with the collets. I have gone through 3 of them in a month. I don't really know why but i have to replace them every time so i can run my car again. :( :mad: . I wish i knew the problem:(

[Casper]

Has anyone else tried the super duty tie rods and the RTR ball cups yet. This setup works REALLY WELL! You need to get the super duty tie rods for the RTR though. The XXX-NT super duty tie rods are too long and need the traxxas setup or the shorter RPM ball cups. You can cut down RTR ball cups also if you want to but that is kind of a pain.

[Anton-C]

casper

did you have trouble getting the rtr ball cups to fit the turn buckles (i assume you are talking about the lunsford ones) because when i bought mine i got the rtr ball cups just becasue thats all they had at the time, when i tried to put them together the ball cups were too loose, i could easialy thread them on with my fingers.

i if there are two different turnbuckle sets then that may be the problem:)

[RogueRacing]

you proably got the punisher turnbuckles. the superduty turnbuckles are quite a bit thicker.

[Got Speed]

Does anyone know of any captured rod ends for the Drake turbuckles? I know several months ago there wern't any other than the traxxas, pro line, and parma ends. I'm hoping someone has got the idea to make rod ends like traxxas or pro line but in long version.

[Casper]

Originally posted by Anton-C
casper

did you have trouble getting the rtr ball cups to fit the turn buckles (i assume you are talking about the lunsford ones) because when i bought mine i got the rtr ball cups just becasue thats all they had at the time, when i tried to put them together the ball cups were too loose, i could easialy thread them on with my fingers.

i if there are two different turnbuckle sets then that may be the problem:)

No I did not have any problems but like RogueRacing said there are punisher tie rods (thinner in dia) and super duty tie rods (thicker in dia). If you run the RTR ball cups these fit on the super duty tie rods but only the set for the XXXNT RTR. The normal kit for the XXXNT is longer and requires short ball cups like the traxxas or the RPM.

[racer2]

ok then :)

[Ford Racer#1]

i need help with my NT. when i pull half throttle (even slowly) it makes a very loud high pitched fast cranking noise. please i need all the help i can. ask anything that will lead to my problem



THNX ahead of time

[BigBadTahoe]

I think I may have a similar problem, my XXX was making a sort of grinding sound when I gave it full throttle and may of lead up to Fords problem. So I took apart the rear gear case and all the gears look fine except for the diff which was a little loose. So I tightened it as far as I could and have yet to try it out because of the storms in OH but hopefully that will solve my problem, maybe even ford's too, what do ya think?

[Got Speed]

Ford Racer#1- I don't know what you mean by a cranking noise. It it kind of a high pitch whirring noise? If so it could be a couple of things. Make sure your spur gear and clutch bell are clean. Make sure the gear mesh isn't too tight. If that dosn't fix it make sure the tranny gears arn't chipped or dirty(you have to look really close for messed up gears, they are easy to miss). Then make sure you diff isn't messed up and the adjustment is right.

[racer2]

hey what would be a good battery pack for the xxx-nt. i am tried of changing batterys every time i race. i want a rechargable pack. I was just wondering what kind would be best.:rolleyes:

p.s. i was looking at the Trinity hump pack.

[Casper]

any 5 cell hump pack will work in the NT. Trinity, Orion and others all make batteries in this configuration. You would be able to find one that is 1200mah.

[Racin Rev]

Rocket city used to make a captured ball end that was very popular around here for xxxnt's but they were bought out by sombody and I don't know who. Does anyone know? I use the dubro ones but they are flimsy by comparison. I like them for the inside rear because ball cups liked to pop off there, but if a captured end breaks it is hard to replace at the track.


Does anyone have any ideas on Racer2's and my questions on slipping colletts?

[Casper]

Racin Rev-- Parma makes the rocket city ball ends. I was tearing those out way too fast and gave up on them.

On the slipping collar. Get a better wrench if you are stripping them out. Start with a new collar and then using a good 3/32 tip with a ground tip (losi, trinity, AE, hudy, MIP type) wrench get that clutch nut on there TIGHT with some thread lock. I never had a problme with this but made sure the clutch nut was as tight as I could make it.

[Shady]

Parma ends are not the rocket city ends, they have been out for a while, they are very flimsy and streach very easy, you can still get the rocket city ends through horizon but from what i understand its a dealer only thing right now

I use traxxas ends without any problems since i can't get the rocket ends right now

[Racin Rev]

I did a google search on the rocket city ends and it seems that Nelson aircraft purchased most of the rocket city stuff. The ones in their catalog seem to be the ones.

A Division of Nelson Aircraft Co
503-259-8899 2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd. #762
Toll Free: Hillsboro, OR 97123 USA

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/linkagefitting/samples/samples.htm

[Got Speed]

racer2- Trinity, Orion, etc all make good packs. Make sure it is a NiMh 1000+ mah 6V pack. If you have high performance servos then it will drain the charge out pretty quickly even still. I like to have two packs and run one out while the other is charging. If you don't mind e bay then you can receiver packs for $13. Search for 6V reciever pack, 1100 mah pack, or something like that. I bought one for $12.99 and it is the same thing as the orions and trinitys with just a different shrink wrap.

Racin Rev- Yea, I've seen a couple people with them and they look like just what I want. But I havn't been able to find any place that still has some to sell. As for the collet problem. Does the clutch nut loosen up or is it still on tight when it slips? I've had mine do both. When the clutch nut was still tight I shredded the collet. If this is what you are talking about I don't know what would help. I replaced the collet and havn't had a problem since. If the clutch nut loosens then make sure you loc-tite it and tighten it down pretty tight.

Shady- That is strange. I've never seen them in any hobby store or online. I'm using the traxxas ends for the rear shock tower right now. I've never broken one but I don't like having to use the inside adjustments all the time.

Racin Rev- Those look alot like the parma ends. Some people say they don't have a problem but they look pretty weak to me. I'm going to search e bay and see if anybody happens to have anything like that.

[BigBadTahoe]

Hey its me again, I posted on the last page how my NT was making a crackling noise when I would give it full throttle well I took it apart and tighten my diff as much as possible and after checking all the gears reinstalled the tranny and now the rear wheels are almost completely locked up!:mad: I made sure it wasn't the engine and moved it away from the spur but it did nothing? What is wrong? Do I need to put more white Losi grease in or something? Please help me!:( This truck give me more problems than my 3 maxxes put together!:( :( :( :confused:

[MrCrash]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
and tighten my diff as much as possible...and now the rear wheels are almost completely locked up See above;) The diff is what prevents your wheels from spinning like you want them to.The tighter the diff,the less action is allowed.

[BigBadTahoe]

So I should loosen it up then? I thought it should be tight so it doesn't slip? When I say the rear wheels are locked up I mean they will not move forward at all unless I force both of them forward by hand. It used to easly coast along and now this! Could I need a new diff, or something? I still don't understand!

[MrCrash]

I see.I thought you were talking about the diff action.Maybe you should open up your tranny,and look for any crap in the case and the gears.

[Racin Rev]

Got Speed,
The shaft didn't loosen any of the times I had the problem. It did not shred the collet. I think that this was because as soon as it slipped the motor died. I always use lock tite (though i wonder why it has gotten so expensive?).

[BigBadTahoe]

Mr. Crash and others, I had it open and checked all the gears and tryied to reassemble it and after I got everything together it started doing this after I had taken it apart. Could it just need grease or do you think a gear could be in there crooked or something? I hate when stuff comes out of no where and screws things up!:mad: I may need all new gears or something???:confused:

[MrCrash]

I would say to just open it up agian,and double check everything.It couldn't hurt.Also,I dunno about greasing the gears.I don't actually have one of these trucks(yet).

[Got Speed]

DubDucedDurango- You must go over everything very carefully and one by one. Check the gears tooth by tooth. Take a clean brush like a toothbrush and clean all the gears completely. If anything is chiped or cracked buy a new one. Make sure that none of the bearings are binding or are in crooked. Start by taking the spur gear off. Does it still bind when turning the rear wheels? If so, take the tranny out of the truck and try turning the top shaft. If it still binds then you should take off one side of the case try turning the top shaft again. If it still binds take the top shaft out and try turning the brake disk. Keep working you way down untill you've eliminated everything but the problem.

Racin Rev- What engine are you running? You may be running the wrong collet for the engine you are running.

cave- I'm so happy. lol I finally have my maxx running right. I got it back from Traxxas and bought a high perf. cooling head. Now it runs like it should have all along. :) Did you countersink the holes on your aluminum skidplate with a dremel? Or did you use something else. I've got a peice of steel I'm going to try and use instead of the flimsy plastic one and to keep the front end down. Is tony going to be out there saturday?

[Racin Rev]

Got Speed,
I am running a CV-R with the Losi pilot shaft and collet

[Got Speed]

Racin Rev- There is only two things that I could think of that could possibly make it slip still. Try cleaning the inside of the flywheel and the collet really good. I doubt that would do it but it is worth a try. Try buying another collet. I hope that helps.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

hi, i am going to order a xxx-nt adam drake and i want a pullstart, i have the collari xs.12 pullstart engine in my shopping cart at stormer with the mip offroad pullstart header, will i need new engine mounts or a new flywheel, and will i have to cut the crankshaft? or do you guys think i should wait on the engine and get the os .12 cv-rx, i would rather get the os because i can find replacement parts easier and i just like the engine better overall, but i cant find anyplace that sells losi and os engines together, i would rather order it all at once. if you know of anyplaces let me know, thanks
Ray

[Casper]

You can place a phone order through Ultimate hobbies 714-921-0424. They have Drake kits and OS engines. You will need a A-9321 Raised exhaust header if you are running a pullstart that does NOT come with the kit. You will not need a new flywheel or engine mounts.

[BigBadTahoe]

Thanks Got speed I will try what you said. Could it possibly be the Diff.? If so what should I look for in it? When you do the test to see if its tight like in the manual it makes a cracking sound, this can't be good! Should I just rebuild it? Thanks for all the advice so far!

[Got Speed]

DubDucedDurango- It could be the diff gear or the bearings for the diff but it won't be the diff adjustment that causes the drive train to bind.

[MikeWz]

So boys, what have a missed the past 11 days? I was away in switzerland visiting a friend and didn't have time to check the boards.

[racer2]

Hey guys, I just went and ran my car again outside, and I wouldn’t start again. :( So I looked at the flywheel and the clutch nut. I found out that the nut came loose again. I was able to tighten the nut and I was able to run it again. But my question is why does it keep coming off. I have already changed clutch nuts and also lock-tighten it. I am lucky I didn’t go through another collet though.:rolleyes:

[jasonrcfreak]

Switzerland??!!! That sounds rough!!! :D Any RC racin goin on over there? :Dd

[Keemos]

racer2 - I used to have that problem too. But after consulting with Adam Drake, this is what he recommends:

Disassemble the clutch assembly.
Clean the whole assembly – use motor spray to remove the entire oil residue.
When putting it together – use a crankshaft locking tool (some thing like this) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD567&P=7) and tightening the clutch nut. Be sure it’s really really tight that your allen wrench is almost bending. Don’t forget to use blue tread-lock too.
Adam also recommends replacing the collet every time you disassemble your clutch.

I never have any problem since. Hope this helps.

[Ford Racer#1]

im having the same problem that dubduceddurango is having excepted mine makes the crackling noise at half throttle

[Got Speed]

Make sure that when tightening the clutch nut you don't tighten it alot with only the piston locking tool or else you will bend you con rod. Grab the flywheel with a pair of channel lock pliers and a towel and then tighten it down. It dosn't hurt to use a piston locking tool as long as you are tightening the nut down as hard as you can with nothing but a piston locking too.

Ford Racer#1- Do like I said for DubDucedDurango to do except instead of checking for binding see if it still makes the noise.

[BigBadTahoe]

I took my diff gear out and it's teeth are all screwed up!:mad: I either had the slipper too tight, or when checking the diff it ruined it. I guess the cracking noise would be the teeth missing each other because they are smashed and mangled. I think a new diff gear will fix things up. By the way what is this problem your talking about with the clutch nut? Could you explain more or give any kind of refenece pic? I just want to know incase this is my next problem.:( Thanks for the help though!!:)

[MrCrash]

I doubt that anyone else makes one,but the flywheel that I use in my Inferno that came in the Ofna 3 shoe clutch kit I have does not use a collet.I feel special:p I also thought that I would mention it,just in case anyone ever somes across one,or if it is even possible on a .12-.18(crankshaft design).

[cave]

Got Speed I'll see ya Saturday.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Got Speed I'll see ya Saturday.

I'll see you then. Hopefully it will rain today or tommorow and not on saturday. Or, better rain sunday and be overcast saturday. lol
I am trying to make a skid of some steel I have but I can't seem to line up the holes very well. How did you line you holes up?

Thanks

[MikeWz]

JasonRCFreak-Psh, I had the greatest time ever. If she doesn't move back before I'm done with college, I'll just be forced to move out there. There is some R/C out there, but I didn't happen to see any. Two guys that I met out there have seen it, and if I can go back out in the winter am going to try to get them into it :D

[cave]

I used the old Skid plate to line up the hole. I simply lined the holes up where I wanted them then drilled them. I made them a tad bigger in circumfrence.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Thanks I'm trying it.