HB Lightning RR Forum v2.0

[nitrovortex]

Hey guys,
There is this grinding type noise coming from the rear centre CVD when i roll the buggy. the noise isn't like a grinding, crunching sound as if summut is breaking. I was just wondering if this is normal, or if summut is up with my diff.

Thanks alot,
Ed

[SpeedMunkey]

sounds like the diff is way loose. try tightening it up some, or a rebuild if that don't help.

[nitrovortex]

OK. Ive been racing it and all but everything is fine. Its a neat type of grinding sound if you know what i mean, sounds nicer than a pinion/spur mesh.

[Norm1968]

speedmunkey, did you try my suggestion about washing your "ugly" body (not your personal body..the car body:D ) in warm soapy water and scrubbing away the paint so you could redo it? If so, how'd it turn out? I'm hoping it worked so you don't have to spring for a new body too soon. If it worked and you painted a cool lookin' body post some pics for us to admire.

[geo8498]

Does anyone know if Kyosho shock towers will work on the Lightning. I notice the wing mounting may be different, but I have a homemade wing mount anyway. I think I can modify it if need be.

[Bex]

I know you all said the Kyosho wing will fit on the lighting. But will Ofna wings fit? I have a place I can get an Ofna wing from but I have to order the Kyosho and LHS has problems getting Kyosho stuff.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Norm1968
speedmunkey, did you try my suggestion about washing your "ugly" body (not your personal body..the car body:D ) in warm soapy water and scrubbing away the paint so you could redo it? If so, how'd it turn out? I'm hoping it worked so you don't have to spring for a new body too soon. If it worked and you painted a cool lookin' body post some pics for us to admire.

Hey Norm - Here is a shot of my buggy with the "stock" body washed of that horrible paint job :) Really didnt take much effort - just some wasm-ish water and scrubby :)

[Casey]

Originally posted by Bex
I know you all said the Kyosho wing will fit on the lighting. But will Ofna wings fit? I have a place I can get an Ofna wing from but I have to order the Kyosho and LHS has problems getting Kyosho stuff.

Is the Ofna wing pre-drilled? The stock wings for my Hyper 7 come pre-drilled and do not fit my Lightning. I believe the 9.5 wings, as well as some of the other Ofnas, need to be drilled. Fitting them would not be an issue. The Kyosho wings need to be drilled,too. They have two marks on the bottom that when drilled are a perfect fit for the Lightning. I also have a pre-drilled GS Storm wing that fits the Lightning. The holes are larger than the wing posts, so there is a bit of slop.

[Casey]

k_bojar, nice looking buggy.

[CRSMP5]

i own on eof th elateste pro kits.. they went to a oil based paint.. :mad: cannot get it to wash off to save my butt.. and its cracking so bad its not funny.. like the person spraying the oil based paints put it on real thick, and never allowed the paint to dry between coats.. anyone else have tis bod? i want to strip it so bad..

also i bought a ofna wing that was not drilled..

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
i own on eof th elateste pro kits.. they went to a oil based paint.. :mad: cannot get it to wash off to save my butt.. and its cracking so bad its not funny.. like the person spraying the oil based paints put it on real thick, and never allowed the paint to dry between coats.. anyone else have tis bod? i want to strip it so bad..

also i bought a ofna wing that was not drilled..

They went to an oil based paint??? You can use oil-based on lexan - the paint would eat thru the body...I know on mine and most of the earlier ones, they used Partra's Fascolor - which does was off with water

Maybe they switched to Pactra paint or something similar :)

Casey - thanks...That was a quick 5 minutes paint job :) I think the old school Hot Bodies make the body :):D

[Norm1968]

Originally posted by k_bojar
Hey Norm - Here is a shot of my buggy with the "stock" body washed of that horrible paint job :) Really didnt take much effort - just some wasm-ish water and scrubby :)


k_bojar, Body looks great now. Nice paint scheme, a big improvement over the stocker to be sure.;). Has anyone heard that HB is trying to rid itself of the RC Car sales? I had a guy at our local track say he was told by a LHS that was going to happen. I've tried getting confirmation from Rickys RC and got no reply. I know that the parts I wanted were on backorder at Ricky's and the lady told me she didn't know when they'd be getting more in. I'm hoping this is all Bull Droppings...these cars are too good to have something like this happen. I tired to order the parts 3 weeks ago at the trackside hobby shop we race at and they can't get parts from any of their distributors. Has me alittle worried.:(

[CRSMP5]

that sux the big one.. hate to have bought a new buggy that is goign to lack parts support in a few months.. and yea oil based like in pactrica.. anything that uses a laqure is oil based in some way.. else it would clean up with water.. i let it sit in a bucket of water for over a day to sofen it up.. nada.. ive used alot of parma paint.. and this stuf is hard.. not even flexable like parma is..

[geo8498]

Can someone please help me find a 7075 rear shock tower? Nothing at my LHS, and can't find it anywhere.

[desai]

i just ordered a lightning pro. and if its true that they are going to shut down their r/c car business than its time to mass email hot bodies.

[Norm1968]

geo8498, Are you after the 3mm or 4mm? I've seen someone parting out new HB Pro's on Ebay about once every week or so. They just ahd an auction end Wednesday evening with a bunch od Pro parts. I'll check with the trackside hobby shop where we race Sunday...sorry it won't be any sooner. Do you have the part number#?

desai, I'm not to concerned just a little about parts. With the way HB is selling these buggies (so many) and the good reviews the get in the magazines and so many owners swearing by them, they'd be nuts to drop them. Besides, I haven't been able to confirm anything from anywhere. Just when Itried to order parts from Ricky's RCCAR the person wasn't able to say when the may be in. Heck, I've gotten the same response many times on other parts I need for many things....don't sweat it. In some ways it's good to know the demand is so great.

[SpeedMunkey]

I talked to my LHS about and he had heard the rumors too. Since it is his most popular item, he called HB. Apparently, the Dirt Demon was so far behind in production, they retooled their entire assembley line for it, meaning they halted production of Lightnings and Lightning parts, until they could get caught up. They are back in production and selling like hot cakes. Now we know =)

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by SpeedMunkey
I talked to my LHS about and he had heard the rumors too. Since it is his most popular item, he called HB. Apparently, the Dirt Demon was so far behind in production, they retooled their entire assembley line for it, meaning they halted production of Lightnings and Lightning parts, until they could get caught up. They are back in production and selling like hot cakes. Now we know =)

That's kinda interesting to hear - especially since HB doesnt actually make the Lightning :) and I would assume the Dirt Demon either...

but anyway, at least the Lightning isnt going anywhere

[desai]

getting a lightning pro and its coming in a couple of days. question though, are all the screws loctited? and do they supply the screws for mounting the servos?

thanks

[kyoshofan420]

I don't think they locktite all the screws. I am pretty sure they would include the servo mounting hardware though:) Has anyone noticed that the Dirt Demon looks almost exactly like the Duratrax Thunder Quake? Looks like the same towers, upper deck, and suspension. Not completely sure, but they do look alike.

[desai]

do the loctite at least some of them?

[desai]

also in addition to servo mounting hardware, will the buggy also have the diff shims or will i have to get those too?

thanks

[blemaxx]

on my Pro they did loctite all the screws that need to be but I would check just to be sure. As for diff. shims they do come with them. on my buggy one diff. didn't have them but it works so I didn't have to shim it. It will come with all the screws to mount your servos! One thing they had a problem wth one of the parts bags some time ago missing the break adj. things but not a big deal. Just gave them a call and they sent it out fast may have fixed that now.

[geo8498]

Well, my "Alien Goo" painted body bit the dust. So here's my replacement...

You my notice a custom aluminum shock tower in the picture.

[geo8498]

right side

[geo8498]

shock tower

[desai]

so can i still run the thing without the break adjustment knobs? or do i have to have those?


thanks and a pic of them would help so i could pic some up at my hobbyshop.


thanks

[nitrovortex]

Hi guys,
I was just wondering, will 7.5 suspension arms fit the Lightning? And if I buy a 7.5 brake set which includes pads, calipers, screws and stuff, will that fit? Cos all buggy brakes look universal to me really.

Oh and I got some awesome news :D Once ive sold some other r/c's, a WS7 2 will be on order :D And so will some other goodies like a nice body etc etc;)

Cheers,
Ed

[SVTMaxx]

You can get the MP 7.5 arms to fit without much trouble. There are some tiny little things different, but you should be able to use them without much trouble. We opened a package at the LHS and they're for all practical purposes, identical.

[CRSMP5]

my lightning came all loctited and shimmed, even had spare shims in the box.. my pro did not come with the knurels nuts for the brake bias rods.. BUT i see this as a non issue cause i can loosen and move the end set screw retainer to adjust my brake bias.. it came with everything else.. like mirrors, fuel filter holder an dall.. just missed the knureled pieces..

[Norm1968]

geo8498, nice job on the custom shock tower and the paint job on the body I may add. You didn't respond to my earlier question about which 7075 tower you needed the 3mm or 4mm. Ricky's RCCAR sent me an email to answer my problem about parts. They said try Tower Hobbies or Stormer Hobbies. They both have online web sites, but that doesn't mean they will or won't have them. According to the email HB is currently experiencing a high demand for parts and cars and all backorders will be filled soon. They also indicated that HB will be bringing out some new car....."NOT" TO REPLACE THE LIGHTNING though. So hopefully we'll all soon see our parts problem rectified.:)

[desai]

so i can still run the car without the knurled knobs correct?


thanks and im guessing that next car that HB pulls out would either be a 4wd stadium truck or even 2wd, or a 1/8 onroad.

[SpeedMunkey]

Originally posted by k_bojar
That's kinda interesting to hear - especially since HB doesnt actually make the Lightning :) and I would assume the Dirt Demon either...

but anyway, at least the Lightning isnt going anywhere

Then I would have to assume he was referring to whomever actually manufactures the HB products.

[Casey]

geo8498 - How are those Ofna spoked wheels you've got? Any durability issues? I'd like to pick up a set in lime green for my Hyper 7, but don't want them breaking on me.

[geo8498]

the rims are great.

[Bex]

Keeping you all updated on my lighting, Stuff that has broke(in order):
Steering Servo Horn (replaced with heavy duty extra long futaba horn)
Wing (havent replace yet, just the back half of the side part came off)
Wing post (did a flip and a half skidded on the lid across 20 foot of pavement sheared the thing off)
Throttle Servo Horn (should have changed when the stearing one broke)
Clutch Shoes (had to hold the brake while the throttle was stuck wide open cause the horn broke, smoked the clutch)
Annoying stuff:
Pull Start (didnt loctite the screws, lost all of em, its kinda dangeling)
Glow Plug (didnt like the stock plug went with a duratrax carbon plug)
Tires (supprizingly the stock ones are still good, just ca glue wont hold them on, about every 3rd tank it pops off the rim)
Reciver box (little tight, requires alot of time with needle noses, and the pin is hard to get in and out)
Stuff I found nessicary to change:
Clutch shoes (see above)
Servo Horns (see above)
Body (the black was sucking in the heat makeing the engin hotter than a fire cracker)
Cooling head (podwer coated holds in heat, have a crazy nut head on order)
Info on the buggy:
Age: 6 days
Runtime: 1 gallon
Total cost thus far: $435 (includes: kit, clutch shoes, body, servo horns, servo, fule, cooling head excludes radio, I had that)

[CRSMP5]

well thats pretty cheap.. not to bad..

[romulus]

geo8498,
Nice "hot body" :) As for me my went from this ugly duck with extra decals......

[romulus]

to this.....:cool:
p.s. Sorry for the image... it was fine but I have to reduce the size.

[Casey]

Sweet buggy, romulus! I'm a sucker for a buggy with a serious "race" look to it, and yours has it.:)

[Casey]

Here's what my buggy looks like now with the current racing body.

[romulus]

thanks casey. Your ride is also sweet :cool:

[CRSMP5]

here is a pic of the bod i painted for mine.. still waiting for the wheels i want.. dont like the due spoke look, or the dish, so want to get some of the v spoke ones... and im trying to get blue ones..

http://members.aol.com/crsvwdesigns/rc/hblight/bod1/5.jpg

took me 15min to paint it....:D

http://members.aol.com/crsvwdesigns/rc/hblight/bod1/6.jpg
close up of the faint tiger stripes and all.. i was playing with a new air brush seeing what it woudl do and some parma paints.. only like 8 colors, and every time the cup ran out of paint i added a different color to play on.. did not clean it or anything.. pretty sick look to it.. now if i had matchign blue wheels id be real happy..

[geo8498]

Casey and Romulus, I like those racing schemes too. It just makes the buggy look fast. My first buggy was a Tamitya Frog, and it's done up in race paint, with sponsor stickers.

Casey, I notice you have silver springs on yours. Are those harder or softer than the stock yellow springs? How's the handling with them.

[blemaxx]

Originally posted by desai
so i can still run the car without the knurled knobs correct?


thanks and im guessing that next car that HB pulls out would either be a 4wd stadium truck or even 2wd, or a 1/8 onroad.


Yes you can run the car no prob without them

[Casey]

romulus - Thanks.

geo8498 - Those are Mugen silver springs. They are just about the same as the stock yellows. At first I thought the yellows were too soft. After some racing, I really started liking them. They just soak up the rough stuff and help keep all four wheels on the ground. I switched to the Mugen silvers simply because I didn't care for the yellow color. I really like the handling, but it does bottom out on bigger jumps. The bottom of my chassis is almost completely silver now. Most of the other guys at our track run stiffer springs. Their buggies bounce around quite a bit, especially on the straight.

By the way, I just got back from the races. Week four of the points season. I did it again. TQ and wins in both heats and the main. 6 buggies total tonight. I should probably stop posting my race results because they don't sound very believable.

[geo8498]

Didn't like that yellow wing, so I painted a black one I had. We'll see how long that paint lasts before it all scrapes off.

[Casey]

That red wing really makes a difference! Looks good.

[k_bojar]

ok...on a serious note - does anyone know who's steering knuckles will fit this car??? I've been have a absolute bitch of a time keeping the screws in place and am fed up :mad: I'm thinking ones from a Kanai should fit, but wanted to know if anyone has tried any :)

Thanks for any help...I love this buggy, but the screws are pissing me the hell off :mad: :mad: :mad: :D

[Norm1968]

k_bojar, have you tried emailing Alvin at Rickysrccar? I read he's like the tech guru there. Maybe he can give you some ideas. So far mine have stayed tight...knock on wood...but maybe I'm just lucky or not driving hard enough. Here's the email address and phone number;

email; tech@rickysrccar.com
phone;1-800-221-6053

Good Luck...hope they can help.

Just letting everyone here know, I've tabled my HB RTR and bought a new Lightning Pro. I was just going to upgrade my RTR but by the time I added it up it was cheaper to buy the Pro. Fortunately my LHS has a policy of matching any advertized price (except Ebay) and matched RCBoyz on the Pro. I've had it almost a week and love it, course my RTR was great too.;)

[geo8498]

As for the knuckles, I've gobbed silicone into the hole after I put in the screw. I've not lost a knuckle screw since. Altough I did have one knuckle strip. Even still, I didn't lose the screw and din't even notice it until I got home. The silicone will peel out with tweezers when you need to unscrew them.

[kyoshofan420]

Great paint jobs on the buggies:)

[kyoshofan420]

Hello everyone. I have a little problem. I am going to get a Lightning Pro soon, but I am not sure from where. I have a couple options Ebay(350), LHS(379.99), or rcboyz.com(319.99). Has anyone bought a Lightning on Ebay or from rcboyz? My main concern is money. Where should I get it from? Does rcboyz take money orders? I will appreciate any help and thanks in advance:)

[Norm1968]

kyoshofan420, I'd go with RC Boyz. Yes they take money orders. I bought some parts from them and used a money order to pay. As for Ebay, I bought my RTR Lightning there. I've only had 1 bad experience on Ebay and it was only for a few bucks. I was lucky enough to have a LHS match RC Boyz prices and bought a new Lightning Pro last week. So I'm selling the RTR now.

Good luck with getting your Pro, let us know when you do.:)

[CRSMP5]

ive done alot of business with rcboyz and they are excelent to buy stuff from..

on my pro i cannot get those knuckle screws out.. they loosen up, but will not com eout, its liek they have a c clip on them or some other type of ring to hold them into the c hub.. i tried the night i got it and gave up cause i did not want to break anything..

[kyoshofan420]

Oh yeah and one more question. How much was shipping from rcboyz? Again, thanks in advance:)

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
ive done alot of business with rcboyz and they are excelent to buy stuff from..

on my pro i cannot get those knuckle screws out.. they loosen up, but will not com eout, its liek they have a c clip on them or some other type of ring to hold them into the c hub.. i tried the night i got it and gave up cause i did not want to break anything..

Nope, unfortunately there is not an eclip on that screw :mad: its difficult to get out because of the dried thread lock in the collar...When I remove mine (the ones that stay), I usually have to grap it with a pair of needle nose to yank it out...Now only if the thread lock held like that while I was racing the buggy, I wouldnt have gone thru as many as I have :mad: :)

[Bex]

Geo, where did you get you metal wing mount thingy? Thanks

[geo8498]

Bex, I built that wing mount myself, as well as the rear shock tower. There are some more detailed pictures of it a couple of pages back on th thread.

[geo8498]

Originally posted by geo8498
detail view

Wing mount picture is on page 52

[Norm1968]

Since most of us probably don't race against each other (not that it matters...we're all HB owners), how about sharing some set-up tips with each other. You know....toe settings, camber, shock mounting postion, shock oil weight, preload spacers...etc...etc. I think we all want to go out and kick some K2, Mugen and Ofna booty. We have buggies that can and have done it. If you ask me this is the best thread on the site.

My setups;

FRONT: Toe.....1 degree toe out, 1 degree neg. camber, 40 wt shock oil, 1 large preload spacer, stock yellow springs for now, axles slightly above level

REAR: 1 degree negative camber, 30 wt shock oil, 1 large and 1 small preload spacer, yellow springs, axles level.

Running stock tires, stock motor, Traxxas 20% nitro. Removed front sway bar for better steering ( I race on a tight track). Going to try Ofna blue springs next race. I'll let you know if they helped.

Stock tires. I'm also going to install a Crazy Nut cooling head so i can run alittle leaner.;)

[desai]

Well i got my lightning pro from rcboys yesterday. And so far its been a big pain in the a$$ to get into working condition. I spent all last night making it ready which is kind of ridiculous. Some of the crap in there hot bodies could have easily done at the factory. But whatever. Its still a really good looking buggy. Feels of higher quality than the mugen rr i used to own. So ill test it out today.

[desai]

also wondering how you guys broke your engines in? hb's tutorial is a joke.

[kcobra]

I ordered the Pro from rcboyz and had it in a week. They also have some good clearance prices on some other stuff. Notably they have Orion 1000mah reciever packs for $11.25. For my $380 order, shipping was $19 which isn't great but isn't horrible either.

As for the break in, just start it up at the factory settings and then richen the low speed needle until it barely idles. Idle it for 2 tanks. Then take it out to a parking lot with some old tires and run it around rich for a while (both top and bottom end). Lean it a bit after each run. After about the 7-8 tanks you should have it leaned out to running condition. Remember to allow it to cool all the way down between tanks.

That's my procedure for breaking an engine in. Others may disagree.

[desai]

man breakin is a bore so far. got one tank through which felt like a hour. I idled it and ran it slowly. Now im going to lean it a little and run it outside. its pretty hot though.

[CRSMP5]

my set up...

front 30wt oil, as much neg camber as i can get, 1deg neg toe, 5k silicone diff lock oil, med spacer on stock springs

center
5k diff oil, want to try some 10k though, front brakes more pressure than rear brakes, 16tcb on a 4+gal old 21bb i had in my savage...

rear... 1k diff lock oil, 35 wt shock oil, big and 2nd smallest size up spacers on yellow springs. i also am trying out the 54mm toe braces on the back, i found with my savage less toe gave me alot more stability vs the toe it had dialed in. i also have the sway bar tightened up some..

rember front sway bar controls rear, rear controls front..

next engine break in.. as stated above, over 4 gal 21bb, 1.2 gal break in.. 1/2 gal easy running with little wot except to set needles, once i hit 1 gal point full open kick your butt try to break it running..

[desai]

wow thats a pretty loooooooooonggg breakin. I think you might be overdoing it.

[SpeedMunkey]

geo, you've inspired me. I've been pondering an idea for a custom wing mount, so I thought I'd give it a shot. Here is a model of it, taking it to work tomorrow to see if the shop guys can make it up for me.

The wing washers will be complimentary angles, so that when you sandwich the wing, the cap screw will have a flat surface to tighten against. I plan to have them make the angle washers in 5*, 10*, 15*, 20*, 25* and 30* versions, so I can change the angle of the wing. Might never use all of em, but it will be nice to know I could if I wanted to.

Whatcha think so far? Comments are welcome!

[desai]

hey guys, i noticed that when i attached the wing on my pro that it was really hard to attach because the washer covered the hold partially. I had to use a wrench to jame the body clip through. Is this okay? And also should I call HB to get those knurled thingies for the steering? are they worth it? is there anything else I can call to get from HB for free?

thanks

[ILiketheXXCR]

Hey guys,

I just bought a Lightning RR for 240 minus the radio. I was wondering how much different it was from the Pro. (ie exactly what parts differ from each version). Thanks.

[desai]

Ok here are the differences between Lightning Pro and the Lightning RR:

PRO:7075 Hard Anondized Aluminum Chassis 3mm
RR:6061 Anondized 3mm

PRO:6.7mm Hex Wheel Adapter
RR: 5mm hex wheel adapter

PRO: 3 shoe racing clutch (ALUMINUM?????)
RR: 2 shoe

PRO: Front Universals, Center Universals
RR: dogbones

PRO: Front and rear 4mm 7075 aluminum shock towers
RR: 6061 3mm shock towers

PRO: 7075 front and rear susp. holders
RR: 6061 susp. holders

PRO: 7075 steering knuckles
RR: cast

PRO: Hard anondized racing shocks with hard coated shafts
RR: aluminum shocks

PRO: Front and rear sway-bars
RR: rear sway bar

PRO: aluminum 3 degree suspension holder.
RR: none

PRO: THICK, front and rear chassis braces 7075 aluminum.
RR: rear chassis brace

PRO: purple shock caps
RR: brown

PRO: Double front disk and single rear brakes
RR: Single front and single rear.

I got a quick question though. How do I know if my diffs were shimmed correctly? I got two extra shims in a parts bag.

Thanks and I hope that helps.

[k_bojar]

desai - to make a (few) corrections to your listing....

The Pro comes with a 3 shoe clutch not an aluminum 3 shoe - that is an additional hop-up

The RR comes with universals in the front and dogbones in the rear and center

The Pro actually comes with 2 different size Hex adaptors - the 5mm in the front and the larger 6.7mm hex in the rear. The RR only has 1 size but both sets use the standard size hex (17mm)

The Pro has one piece (with bladder) shock caps - the purple aluminum - whereas the RR has a two piece (with bladder) style kinda like the HPI and Tamiya alunimum shocks

The other difference you forgot to mention was the tires :) The RTR comes with a nice pattern semi-spike tires (circle-dash-circle kinda pattern) whereas the Pro comes with a very aggressive spike pattern kinda similar to TRC's grip tires. The Pro are also a different "racing" compound

:D:)

[Norm1968]

SpeedMunkey, looks cool and simple to use. Are you going to make just one or are you planning on selling them to the rest of us?????? I definitely like the idea and your right, purple does somehow make you feel faster. Let us know how it turns out.

[romulus]

SpeedMunkey,
Nice wing mount. I wish that I have the powerfull CAD software. The only thing that you might consider adding is a cross member in between to make it more stiffer in a event that someone hits you from the side. You can use a hollow rod with 3mm ID and a long screw and a lock nut. That should give you more strengh.

[SpeedMunkey]

Depends on what the production costs turn out to be. Wouldn't be worth the effort if it ends up costing me $20-25 to make it. No one would pay that, plus say a 10% profit, for a wing mount.

Romulus, that's on my to-do list =)

[k_bojar]

Anyone know the sizes of the hinge pins for the suspension arms?? I cant find my manual and was looking for an alternative to the kit ones....HB doesnt see the "nice" one e-clip version that comes with the Pro kits separately - so I was trying to think of a viable alternative

thanks

[desai]

how do i know if i got shims in my diffs . I just got my lightning pro the day before yesterday. It had two shims sitting in a parts bag. And also there were numerous other black washers in a bag. Can someone help my out?

and a repeat post:

hey guys, i noticed that when i attached the wing on my pro that it was really hard to attach because the washer covered the hold partially. I had to use a wrench to jame the body clip through. Is this okay? And also should I call HB to get those knurled thingies for the steering? are they worth it? is there anything else I can call to get from HB for free?

thanks

[ILiketheXXCR]

Wow... the Pro does seem like a better value...however... I probably wont need a lot of the things you mentioned.

I have never seen a standard steering knuckle break.. so there is no need for a 7075 version IMO.

Shock towers... I am probably going to make my own out of carbon fiber (along with a carbon fiber radio tray, like I do with every car I buy).

3 shoe clutch... once my 2 shoes wear out... I will just skip it and head on over to the aluminum 3 shoe clutch.

Front and rear chassis braces... just pop in some rpm ball ends and a Titanium turnbuckle... and I should be set.

Wheels and tires... who uses the rtr tires for racing anyhow? Get some Proline Knuckes and you are set.

I will probably need to buy the hard anodized chassis though... sounds necessary...if I want to race.. stiffer and less flex.

If the shocks break....I will upgrade them with K2 shocks.

so I guess that will add up to around 350.... 240+20(shoes)+25(11 by 16 carbon fiber sheet)+35(chassis)+50(shocks)

[SpeedMunkey]

Originally posted by ILiketheXXCR
I have never seen a standard steering knuckle break.. so there is no need for a 7075 version IMO.



I popped one last week. Ripped out the knuckle and carrier on the wall.. Ouch =(

[ILiketheXXCR]

hehehhe must have been a pretty bad crash then, but seriously I dont think it would be worth it for me to sell my buggy and spend that much on a pro...

[Casey]

I'm not knockin' the RTR version, but you can't beat the PRO. HB should offer optional tracks instead of wheels 'cause this thing is a TANK!!!:D

[desai]

how do i know if i got shims in my diffs . I just got my lightning pro the day before yesterday. It had two shims sitting in a parts bag. And also there were numerous other black washers in a bag. Can someone help my out?

and a repeat post:

hey guys, i noticed that when i attached the wing on my pro that it was really hard to attach because the washer covered the hold partially. I had to use a wrench to jame the body clip through. Is this okay? And also should I call HB to get those knurled thingies for the steering? are they worth it? is there anything else I can call to get from HB for free?

thanks

[SpeedMunkey]

I'm pretty rough on the infield walls at our oval, and well, I guess it finally decided to get back at me. Ripped the knuckle screws and the carrier out. Got the new ones and had no Lock-Tite, shop was out too... So the next night at the race those cap screws decided to avenge their lost brothers from the night before. Was leading on lap 25/35 in the C main when they let go. Imagine my disappointment. Ohwell, least the guy in second was a buddy of mine and I was happy to see him advance. He'd had his Lightning pro for 2 whole days =)

[Casey]

Originally posted by desai


and a repeat post:

hey guys, i noticed that when i attached the wing on my pro that it was really hard to attach because the washer covered the hold partially. I had to use a wrench to jame the body clip through. Is this okay?

thanks

My wing was tight, too. I didn't have to use a wrench, though. Just pushed down hard with my finger and slid the clips through.

[desai]

can anyone answer this?


how do i know if i got shims in my diffs . I just got my lightning pro the day before yesterday. It had two shims sitting in a parts bag. And also there were numerous other black washers in a bag. Can someone help my out?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by desai
can anyone answer this?


how do i know if i got shims in my diffs . I just got my lightning pro the day before yesterday. It had two shims sitting in a parts bag. And also there were numerous other black washers in a bag. Can someone help my out?

If you had shims in the bag then odds are they are spares...The only other way I know is to disassemble the entire diff housings and look at how much play is there...I've never done this - my diff were from from the factory

[rc man37689]

how fast is it?

[CRSMP5]

my lightning pro, with a 16t cb, 4 gal old 21bb from my savage is crazy fast.. stock cb is 13t, had 16t from my savage though..

[Bex]

Originally posted by rc man37689
how fast is it?
The lighting pro is good enough to race at a club level out of a box. To give you an idea, did a demostration at the local hoby shop because of a lot of trash talk about whos fast and whos not. We set up a "drag race" of sorts, the course wasn't straight though it was a really lazy "S"(maybe a 15 degree turn). It was my stock .21 lighting, Savage with a .27(dunno which one sorry), and a XXX-S G+ with a reedy modified (think a 13turn not sure) wish I had more info on the other cars Well the XXX had both us before the bend, but through the bend we started kicking in and getting the engins wound out, and the savage switch to second gear, but in the end it was a really close match between the highly modded savage and my stock lighting. Never figured out who won it was too close, wasnt important, we were haveing fun. Now the lighting tore the Savage up when we put it on a technical course (but the losi tore me up but not by much).

[CRSMP5]

yep.. my lightning is faster than my savage.. and the savage has a 8 port race in it.. the lightning is crazy fast as its set up at the moment with the 21bb engine.. i have no idea what a extra 10,000rpm would do for it.. besides make it more uncontrolable.. im happy with where it is for now..

[Casey]

Took my Lightning to the track yesterday to practice. Had some sort of glitch in my system and the buggy took of WOT and flipped. I ran down from the driver's stand to the buggy just in time to hear the loud CLINK. I run a failsafe, so I'm not sure what happened. Anyway, the stock engine broke. Too bad, 'cause it ran so nice. Today I threw in a Hyper .21 from my Hyper 7 and I'm ready to go for Monday night's race.

[Casey]

Here's the new setup.

[Casey]

........

[Norm1968]

Here we go fellow Lightning owners...something to really crow about. It was just a matter of time.

fear factory
Hey there guys ,i just registered after reading this thread and tought you guys might like some info on buggies from down under ,here in Australia.Firstly,mabe because we are closer to Asia than you guys might be why we have this info and you don't.The lightning pro is made by a company in Asia called Ming Yang and therfore Hot Bodies are only the distibutor for the car in the states.Here in Australia the car is known as the Sacker Pro.Just like you guys the car is fairly new to us,however the pro was raced in this years New Zealand(a country just south east off Australia)nationals.This was the cars first major outing in the hands of the pros,the car TQ'D and ended up 2nd&3rd in the Nationals.The winner of the Nationals will now be racing the Sacker Pro(Lightning) for the 2003-2004 season.Also Atsushi Hara(former touring car world champ)will be racing the Lightning Pro at major events around the world later on in the year.The car is also being driven by a writer for our national r/c car magazine (Racing Lines)modmags@ozemail.com.au.He has used it to TQ,Win & set new track records.So down here the car is making a very good name for it self.By the way i don't own a Sacker Pro or race 1/8th buggies,i however race an mtx3 in touring cars, i however wil be getting my first buggy soon and can't decide between the Sacker,Kyosho or Mugen.Although going by the results it might be the Sacker Pro.



Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged

07-05-2003 08:14 PM

[CRSMP5]

im glad you finally posted th info.. saw it on rcnitrotalk, who i had a disagreement there so will not post there anymore, you should put the info of the mag articles here for us so maybe others can try to get copies of it.. glad to have ya aboard.. and i like the blue of the slacker way more then the girly purpal color.. :D if you get a slacker ill trade u all the purpal for blue.. this way yours will be different and mine will be different for where we live/race..

[Casey]

The Lightning is also known as the CARSON "Mud Master" 2WD
http://www.suter-meggen.ch/rc/carson/verbrenner/13186kl.jpg


and the "King of Dirt" 4WD.
http://www.suter-meggen.ch/rc/carson/verbrenner/13187kl.jpg


http://www.suter-meggen.ch/rc/carson/verbrenner/buggy.htm

http://home.hetnet.nl/~speedlane/carson%20buggy.html

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/*******************************3532309085&category=23637

[gakartdriver121]

i want this car the pro that is so what all will i need to get it runing i dont have a big buget so im not sure if i can get

[Casey]

To get the Lightning Pro running you'll need:

Radio & Receiver
Steering servo(high torque is best)
Throttle servo
Receiver battery

[gghost]

Will the ofna body fit? Want to get a painted body with out doing the paint. Just not enough time in the day, plus I am a poor excuse for a painter! Thanks.

[Casey]

I don't know for sure, but I think the 9.5 body will be a close fit. The Hyper 7 body won't.

[fear factory]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
im glad you finally posted th info.. saw it on rcnitrotalk, who i had a disagreement there so will not post there anymore, you should put the info of the mag articles here for us so maybe others can try to get copies of it.. glad to have ya aboard.. and i like the blue of the slacker way more then the girly purpal color.. :D if you get a slacker ill trade u all the purpal for blue.. this way yours will be different and mine will be different for where we live/race.. Send the mag (Racing Lines) an email ,i'm shore they can send you a copy.Quote issue 90 June 2003(email-modmags@ozemail.com.au)this has the review on the Sacker along with all the racing info in New Zealand and the authors experiences racing the buggy(which he is doing at the moment).

I just purchased a Lightning Pro off Ebay in the USA for nearly $400 dollars cheaper than what i get the Sacker for down here,so it looks like i will have the puple anodizing as well.:D

[SpeedMunkey]

Originally posted by fear factory
looks like i will have the puple anodizing as well.:D

Purple makes you faster!

[lightningfast]

I love my lightning, but my steering is crap. I put a new servo in to replace stock. Question is though at idle I can steer fine, but whenever i give it throttle the car steers to the left. Anyone know what I can do to remedy this? My LHS is about 40 miles away. Please help!!

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by lightningfast
I love my lightning, but my steering is crap. I put a new servo in to replace stock. Question is though at idle I can steer fine, but whenever i give it throttle the car steers to the left. Anyone know what I can do to remedy this? My LHS is about 40 miles away. Please help!!

What kind of servos did you put in?? For 8th scale you need a really high torque servos - like 110+ oz. And transit time should be pretty fast too :) Just kinda sounds like the torque of your new servo aint all that great.

Either that your the servos isnt centered correct. Try resetting all your radio settings back to "default". From there disconnect your servo saver and set the buggy on a flat surface. Center the tires and then reconnect the servo saver. Now any adjustment(s) you need to make - do so with the weight of the buggy on its wheels :) That should get your straight

[rc man37689]

is rcboyz.com a good place to order a HB lighting pro? when you order it doesnt say shipping.it says it will calculate it when they send it to you :rolleyes: :confused:

anyone order from there?

[RokleM]

I'm happy to see a number of you guys are into heavy racing with yours. If you need any setup tips for blue groove, let me know. Mine did VERY well there.

I'm amazed as popular as the vehicles are, I can't sell mine for the life of me, even with almost enough spare parts to build almost a whole other 1/8th. Kit, 3 sets of tires, tons of spare parts, a starter box, minus engine, barely over the price of the vehicle in the first place, and I can't get rid of it. :confused:

-RokleM

[rc man37689]

has anyone found out about which 2 speed will fit in it?

[SpeedMunkey]

Originally posted by RokleM
I'm happy to see a number of you guys are into heavy racing with yours. If you need any setup tips for blue groove, let me know. Mine did VERY well there.

I'm amazed as popular as the vehicles are, I can't sell mine for the life of me, even with almost enough spare parts to build almost a whole other 1/8th. Kit, 3 sets of tires, tons of spare parts, a starter box, minus engine, barely over the price of the vehicle in the first place, and I can't get rid of it. :confused:

-RokleM

Have you lowered your price since we talked a few weeks back? As I recall, you were asking $800+ for everything (engine included I had assumed)... If you haven't, then I can see where the difficulty lies ;)

[RokleM]

Originally posted by SpeedMunkey
Have you lowered your price since we talked a few weeks back? As I recall, you were asking $800+ for everything (engine included I had assumed)... If you haven't, then I can see where the difficulty lies ;)

$800 for everything that was included really was a pretty good price... The RB engine alone was worth $300-350 IF you can get a hold of one ;)

My post earlier:
Kit, 3 sets of tires, tons of spare parts, a starter box, minus engine, barely over the price of the vehicle in the first place


-RokleM

[SpeedMunkey]

What is your current asking price and EXACTLY what all does it include? Radio? (model?) Starter box? (model?) Engine? What spare parts? Is your car a pro or RTR? be detailed... I got a bud at the track looking to buy one within a couple weeks.

[RokleM]

I sent you a private message Speed.

-RokleM

[SpeedMunkey]

Got it, I'll pass that along to my bud =)

[rc man37689]

ahum

is rcboyz.com a good place to order a HB lighting pro? when you order it doesnt say shipping.it says it will calculate it when they send it to you :rolleyes:

anyone order from there?

[rc man37689]

what is the shaft on this engine? sg?

[Casey]

Pilot Shaft

[Clan O'Riley]

i am thinking about getting the lightning pro. how much punishment can it handle? i wont be racing just bashing in my back yard. i will definetly be jumping it, i just dunno how high.:D i noticed that this buggy has plastic differential housings. are these strong? i dont want to be spending a lot of money to replace things. also do the housings flex at all or is it possible for the gears inside to strip?:(

[hkgasmd]

hi everyone,

I have had a lighting pro for 6 months now and I just wanted to share some thoughts:

1) The wing is really brittle and will break. I replaced mine with a Mugen wing ($9.99) without any problems (holes need to be adjusted to fit).

2) My rear differential blew up after I installed a O.S. RZ-99B motor. (way more power than stock) My gears were replaced with OFNA ones without a problem.

3) The HPI rotostart system works well with the stock motor.

4) The stock body is really thin and flexible with a crappy paint job. A proline crowd pleazer for kanai 7.5 fits pretty well. The body post locations are different.

5) The diffs in the pro are filled with silicone oil (not grease).

6) The stock setup understeers quite a bit and needs to be adjusted for proper handling.

7) I bought mine from RCBoyz without any problems

8) For just bashing a monster truck is better. For the track a buggy is much easier and less frustrating to drive.

9) I blew up my OS RZ-99B motor and replaced it the a OFNA/Picco .26 outlaw motor and wow is all I can say.

10) Great buggy for the price.

[rc man37689]

from rc boys how much shipping did you pay?

[hkgasmd]

I paid $10.00 for shipping from rc boyz

[Clan O'Riley]

i might be jumping what ever car i get and i have noticed at tracks that buggies are A LOT tougher than any thing else

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by rc man37689
has anyone found out about which 2 speed will fit in it?

why would you want to put one in a 8th scale buggy??? NO ONE runs a 2 speed in a buggy

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by hkgasmd
hi everyone,
...2) My rear differential blew up after I installed a O.S. RZ-99B motor. (way more power than stock) My gears were replaced with OFNA ones without a problem.

4) The stock body is really thin and flexible with a crappy paint job. A proline crowd pleazer for kanai 7.5 fits pretty well. The body post locations are different.

10) Great buggy for the price.

As far as your diff problems, I've been running the same OS engine in mine for close to 3 months and havent had an ounce of problems with any of my diffs :) I will probably need to replace them soon, but the replacement should be from wear not destruction :)

Yea the kit body sucks - well at least the paint job is bad :) My body seems to be holding up real well aside from the dent from a bad crash :) (and yes, this buggy can survive some abuse)

Your last point - definitely cant argue with you there :) You cannot touch any other buggy for the price of this machine :):D

[geo8498]

Originally posted by k_bojar
why would you want to put one in a 8th scale buggy??? NO ONE runs a 2 speed in a buggy

I wouldn't say that. I was driving with a guy about 2 weeks ago who put a 2 speed in his Ofna Ultra Pro. He said he had his buggy pushing 50mph with a Force 21. He was just breaking in his new Hyper 8-port, and thinks he'll be able to hit 70 once he had everything going. Another guy at my LHS said he was putting in a 2 speed last winter.

[CRSMP5]

id like a 2 speed for mine.. BUt same token im going to build one so i can keep the center diff..

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by geo8498
I wouldn't say that. I was driving with a guy about 2 weeks ago who put a 2 speed in his Ofna Ultra Pro. He said he had his buggy pushing 50mph with a Force 21. He was just breaking in his new Hyper 8-port, and thinks he'll be able to hit 70 once he had everything going. Another guy at my LHS said he was putting in a 2 speed last winter.

Ok then let me rephrase my comment...NO One who races (whether seriously or for "fun") would ever think about putting one in an 8th scale buggy - unless the buggy is being converted over to a Monster Truck

And noone I know has ever put one in a buggy - and as far as speed portion, I've seen buggies get clocked at over 60mph with a single speed and a better engine (not an OFNA)

[Bex]

why would you want to convert a buggy to a monster truck?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Bex
why would you want to convert a buggy to a monster truck?

Because of the drive train...If you look at some of the "top" trucks at big Monster truck events, you'll see that most of them are based on an 8th scale drive train design :) The JT conversion for the T-Maxx is a good example :) OFNA's dominator/monster pirate is of similar design

Besides, with the price of the Lightning Pro - it would be an reasonably price platform to convert to a Monster Truck - and by the time you finished converting it, it would probably be cheaper than buying a Dominator or converting a T-Maxx

[Karadjas]

Originally posted by hkgasmd
hi everyone,

4) The stock body is really thin and flexible with a crappy paint job. A proline crowd pleazer for kanai 7.5 fits pretty well. The body post locations are different.

Well...it is light and durable and the stock paint washes away with water and a little elbow grease.Once it's given a decent paintjob it looks awesome.God knows what they were on when they included the wing mirrors though.

5) The diffs in the pro are filled with silicone oil (not grease).
Do you know what wt oil each diff is filled with?

6) The stock setup understeers quite a bit and needs to be adjusted for proper handling.
I crashed my RR going round a WIDE bend in a go-kart track at WOT and 80% speed and bent/broke everything in the front right suspension.It just wouldn't turn!I played around with the settings in my bashing area,but I thought I'd bring it back to stock for the onroad bash that day.Oh well.

8) For just bashing a monster truck is better. For the track a buggy is much easier and less frustrating to drive.

True,you can do a lot more with an MT (ever tried to climb loose dirt hills with your buggy?), but the AWESOME handling of buggies more than makes up for it.

10) Great buggy for the price.

This is my first post in the HB forum, although I have been reading it for quite some time (I got one of the first RRs). I crashed mine a while ago and since I need an entire front right suspension assembly, engine/exhaust(gone in my T-Maxx) and other bits here and there(plus hopups of course), it seems more reasonable to save up for the Pro than fix the RR and have a better buggy and loads of spare parts. I'm using the rear suspension and drivetrain in a RWD Baja thingy I'm builting out of parts I had in my parts box and some 3mm aluminum I got off an airplane graveyard (or whatever those places are called).

Sorry for the long post BTW.

[gghost]

Where can I pickup body posts for the pro? Broke one today at the track and couldn't find any at Hobbytown or Tower. Will I have to buy the whole rearend or can I get just a set of posts?
Thanks for the help. Anyone going to RC World this weekend in Lynn, IN? If so hope to see you there. It'll be our 1st trip up there. Looks like a nice place to race.

[Norm1968]

Originally posted by gghost
Where can I pickup body posts for the pro? Broke one today at the track and couldn't find any at Hobbytown or Tower. Will I have to buy the whole rearend or can I get just a set of posts?
Thanks for the help. Anyone going to RC World this weekend in Lynn, IN? If so hope to see you there. It'll be our 1st trip up there. Looks like a nice place to race.

gghost, might want to either call or email rickys RC:

tech@rickysrccar.com or 1-800-221-6053

OR:

Try emailing : Kirk at kirk_klip@earthlink.net, he has parts from time to time.

Hope that helps you.

:)

[Norm1968]

gghost, if you email Kirk my post didn't show it but there's and underline between the kirk and klip in his email address. For some reason the whole email address got underlined.:rolleyes:

[gghost]

norm1968 kirk got back to me already and has what I need. Thanks for the help. Never heard back from Ricky's.

[Norm1968]

gghost, glad to help anytime and that Kirk had the part you needed. Hope you get that buggy back on track soon.;)

[Casey]

Here's a racing update for those who are interested. Last night was week 5 of our LHS's Monday Nitro Points Series(rained out last week). Five buggies total ran last night. I TQ'd and was running first in the main with three minutes to go when a nasty radio glitch took me out. Ended up with third place but I'm still the points leader. Later.

Casey

[Norm1968]

Casey, good showing even with the glitch, always happens when you least expect it. What kinda buggies did you beat? Keep up the good showing for HB Pro's.:)

[Casey]

Thanks. The buggies ahead of me were a Kanaii II and a Mugen MBX4. Behind me were and MBX-5 and an Ofna Ultra. I don't mean to brag, but I am pretty proud of myself and my buggy. Out of 5 races I've got 4 wins, 4 TQs, and a 3rd.

[Blacktiger]

Awesome Job Casey!

Also on another note, I need to know some part numbers. I need to order the PRO shock towers front and rear and the front and rear aluminum chassis braces. I looked on the Hot Bodies parts list but noticed there were a couple parts listed for each one. If someone could point out which is which for me that would be great.

And also the best place to order them.. :D

[Norm1968]

Originally posted by Blacktiger
Awesome Job Casey!

Also on another note, I need to know some part numbers. I need to order the PRO shock towers front and rear and the front and rear aluminum chassis braces. I looked on the Hot Bodies parts list but noticed there were a couple parts listed for each one. If someone could point out which is which for me that would be great.

And also the best place to order them.. :D

blacktiger, check about 5 or 6 post above, I gave gghost an email address for a guy named Kirk who sells Pro parts, he may be able to help. I know the parts are brand new. But here's the part numbers you needfor the Pro parts:

C8120-1 front aluminum chassis anti bending rod
C8121-1 rear aluminum chassis anti bending rod
C8073-2 rear aluminum shock tower 4mm (CNC)
C8075-2 front aluminum schock tower 4mm (CNC)

[CRSMP5]

those items are on ebay at the moment..

front anti bend #3138419634

rear anti bend #3138419625

15 each...

rear shock #3138419548

front shock # 3138419537

buy me now 30 each..

he also has alot of other items.. i plan to purchase.. so be nice.. i told you guys abt it.. so dont beat me out on them..

brake disks, ill be nice and sell the other 2 i want to add a 4th to mine

front cvds that i wanna put in the back, i know the forum says they fit

servo saver that ill shim to fit my savage #2 i bought on the 4th of july

[kyoshofan420]

I finally got my Lightning Pro!:D :D It is awesome, but I will have to locktite the metal to metal stuff and check screws for looseness. My only gripe is that it is missing a couple screws mostly 3x12mm but it is weird. Also the fuel filter I am using will not fit the holder because it is too wide. I have to pick up servo horns and some things before I get it broken in. One more question, does the Pro come with a 4-way wrench? Thanks in advance:)

[CRSMP5]

no 4 way wrench.. and mine was loctited on all metal to metal..

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks:) I don't see locktite on the metal to metal though:( How long will the stock engine last? One person who races at my track said his connecting rod snapped during break-in. I don't think he was running it full throttle. Thanks in advance:)

[CRSMP5]

i have my savage 21bb in mine with over 4 gal of fuel thru it..

sold my lighting one the day i got it..

[Norm1968]

There are 7 or 8 Lightnings racing at the local track where I run. I have both a RTR and the Pro. I haven't heard anyone having touble with the stock motors. Keep in mind they are a sport motor...but...even though they aren't as powerfull as say the Ofna Hyper 8 Port or a Novarossi or Picco they have enough to make life hard on those high end engines. The only place at our local track the high end motors have an advantage is on the long straight and then it's only a few car lengths at the end of the straight.

[CRSMP5]

the 21bb keeps tune very well.. thats why i run it in the buggy.. i just came up with a 25$ picco carb thats composite, if i get something like a crazy nut head, ill be able to lean it out with out carb boil..

[Jeff Cain]

How are the durability issues with the Pro, and how easy is it to get replacement parts? (In comparison to other 1/8 buggies.) I'm not talking about parts in stock at your LHS, but special ordering them through your LHS (since my LHS stocks zero 1/8 scale parts). Fortunately they still have 3 or 4 major distributors they order through. Takes less than a week to get whatever I need if it's anywhere to be found.

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks for the replys. I have another problem. The mid-range on the engine was very loose. What is the setting? On hotbodies site, they don't say. Thanks in advance:)

[CRSMP5]

durability is great.. tower is starting to stock parts.. ebay is still the best place to lok for odd ball stuff due to guy parting new cars..

MSN is flush..

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks:)

[Jeff Cain]

Cool. I'm gonna put a Pro on lay away at my LHS for a steal, $280. w00t!

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Jeff Cain
Cool. I'm gonna put a Pro on lay away at my LHS for a steal, $280. w00t!

$280 is a steal :):D Is that the "super secret discount" (i.e., LHS cost) price or you LHS got a really good deal?? :)

Even for $300, the Pro is a steal :) Especially when you compare this quailty and competitiveness of the buggy to the "expensive" machines like the K2's and the Mugens :)

[Karadjas]

Dude $280??!? can your LHS ship to Europe?

[Karadjas]

I just HAD to post this....the ugliest buggy ever?

http://www.radiocontrol.gr/images/kriti29060227.JPG

[Karadjas]

Here it is from a different angle.
http://www.radiocontrol.gr/images/kriti29060234.JPG

BTW,go here (http://www.radiocontrol.gr/nea_crete_rc_racing_18_buggy_july_2003_1.htm) for some racing pics

[DodgeRamSRT]

Coupla ?'s - What do you use to lube the CVD's, and do you know where I can find CVD boots? Are they needed or overkill? Any helpful hints or advise you guys wanna give me, or things I should look out for as I'm gonna break it in this weekend hopefully. Thanks for your help.

[DodgeRamSRT]

Also, which aftermarket body fits the best or should I get a clear factory body and paint it? The one from that came in the kit has a gross paint jod. Tried to "scrub" it off as mentioned in previous posts, but the paint isn't budging on mine

[kyoshofan420]

Any of the bodies that are designed to fit the Inferno 7.5 or the Ofna 9.5 will fit. Tamiya ceramic grease is good, but most types should work. GS makes silcone boots for shocks. Hope this helped:)

Karadjas,
What brand is that buggy? It is the oddest I have ever seen:D

[CRSMP5]

lube.... i have been using a product calle white lightning, most bike shops have it, its self cleaning wax lube..... they wave a webpage, http://www.whtlight.com/ i use the race day formula, enlsarge the hole in the bottle a titch and shove a aresol wick tube in the end and bamb easy to use squeeze bottle.....

been unsing it on my savage for over 2 months, lack of wear with it...

[Jeff Cain]

Originally posted by k_bojar
$280 is a steal :):D Is that the "super secret discount" (i.e., LHS cost) price or you LHS got a really good deal?? :)

Even for $300, the Pro is a steal :) Especially when you compare this quailty and competitiveness of the buggy to the "expensive" machines like the K2's and the Mugens :)

It's a promotional deal. The distributor cut my LHS a great deal, so they in turn could do the same for a couple customers and still maintain the same markup margin. a.k.a. they got them for dirt cheap. Gets a few people running their buggy and therefore some exposure. I've seen guys get decal sets for free, touring car tires for free, even top level touring cars for $100. About a month ago they were selling the XTM monster truck for $300. There aren't any 1/8 races around here yet, but peeps race everything else. In last years non-ROAR-NORCA or anything for that matter trophy race we had about 160 entries, 40 of which were gas truck. Hoping to get some interest started in 1/8 scale now.

[kyoshofan420]

I finally broke-in the engine today. I had to the help of my LHS because the engine was so tight. I might race it tommorow, but I'm not sure. The engine has plenty of rip for me. I defineitely need to upgrade my servos though:(

[Kenny123]

I can custom make spur gears for the Lighting buggy, I can make them thicker or with more or less teeth. I am going to sell them for $40.00 + $5 shipping. I can also make you different teeth sets if you want. Just let me know what teeth you would need. They would of course have to be proportional to what you have in your buggy so they would mate to your clutch bell.

[CRSMP5]

i won... i won.... i won.... 2nd time racign the buggy and i won... :D and let me tell u this.. there was 2 of us.. :D and my engine block i found today has a crack at the mount ear on the one side.. but i won.. :D

[Casey]

Good job! Feels good, doesn't it?

[Norm1968]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
i won... i won.... i won.... 2nd time racign the buggy and i won... :D and let me tell u this.. there was 2 of us.. :D and my engine block i found today has a crack at the mount ear on the one side.. but i won.. :D


Great Job CRSMP5, I tell ya, people need ot find out just how good these buggies are. At our track they do great too, running against Mugens and Ofnas mainly...in fact there's about 7 of us running Lightning Pros and most of them are pretty much stock.:D

[Jeff Cain]

w00t!

[CRSMP5]

:D 2 of us as in other guy got 2nd... :D but i did lap him.... and he kept beating me on qualifications....

i also removed as much rear toe as i could, via stuff that came with it, and used the other castor blocks too... just to see effects, and i like this set up more... i love my buggy.... now time to buy a engine, but which one..... i think picco for some 26 2.7 hp reason... use in savage also :D can swap 8 port race and picco, for the track....

also a fyi... a savage flywheel set up fits the lightning for any one else who wants to swap engines between their savage and buggy....

[Karadjas]

kyoshofan,that's a Laro.

Jeff Cain,can you get ONE more or give me your LHS's email address?

BTW,I see stuff about Pros going for $300...where can I get one that cheap?

[Casey]

Cheapest I've seen the PRO is $320 at RC Boyz. Anyplace cheaper than that I'd like to know about. Wouldn't mind picking up another one for a truck project I've got in mind.

[Jeff Cain]

Originally posted by Karadjas
Jeff Cain,can you get ONE more or give me your LHS's email address?

BTW,I see stuff about Pros going for $300...where can I get one that cheap?

I'll ask them and see what they think. I know on good deals they like to offer them to the regular racers and people that help newbies/build the track/run races before anybody else. I think after this they'll be $340-$360.

[Aldalo]

I'm considering buying LightningPro.
What would be a good radio?
I was thinking of JR XR2i. Does it come with two different
servos?

Thanks Aldalo

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
... i love my buggy.... now time to buy a engine, but which one..... i think picco for some 26 2.7 hp reason... use in savage also :D can swap 8 port race and picco, for the track....


Just remember that is you are going to race on most "organized" levels, a .21 is the biggest you can put into a buggy and still race it legally.

Some tracks make "allowances" for certain buggies that come with bigger engines, i.e., some of the OFNA with their .25's - but for the most part a .26 isnt race legal :)

I went with an OS .21 RX or RG (cant remember which name it is, but its the one under the V01B) - and it was substancially more rip than the kit engine, even though it had a "lower" HP rating :)

[CRSMP5]

my track is unorganized :D can run any engine you want.. pluse.. i have a 8 port race for situations like that in my savage.. just it too much torque for a tight lots of turns track in the savage... but gives me a excuse to try one out..

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
my track is unorganized :D can run any engine you want.. pluse.. i have a 8 port race for situations like that in my savage.. just it too much torque for a tight lots of turns track in the savage... but gives me a excuse to try one out..

You do realize that the .26 will be giving you even more torque and power????? :confused: :D I'd put the .26 in your Savage and move the 8 port over to the buggy full-time :D

[Apis]

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=88_89_90&products_id=2413

I was wondering if this center diff works in the lightning? If it doesn't, dose anyone know who makes upgraded parts for the lightning?

[Karadjas]

To quote Al Bundy when Peggy blew all the money on heating and they couldn't afford a TV Guide...."aaarrrggh"

Due to the fact the owner of the only track round here is something I'm not allowed to say in a family forum,I don't want to be seen anywhere near his pathetic attempt of a too-small-even-for-the-overpriced-schumacher-1/10-buggies-that-he-and-his-stuck-up-victimised-customers-race excuse of a track. His loss though, I'm taking my business and people(reqularly winning races really attracts newbies asking for help and directions)back to the best LHS people I've ever had the luck of meeting(note I didn't say best LHS - way too small).

So, with no offroad track to go to, buggying will have to take a back seat to my bashing projects - A custom .21 T-Maxx and a homebuilt baja beetle project. By Christmas I should have the money for a Pro and the new track I'm planning with the good LHS owner and by next summer I should be able to throw a few mods towards its general direction,but for now...it's all bashing and directing newbies away from stupid snobs whose only concern is trying to rip you off.*inhale*

[Jeff Cain]

Whew! Read all 65 pages. "When I first came here I was but a learner, now I am the master." ---Darth Vader circa 1977 :D

[Casey]

For those interested. Last night was week 6 of our Monday Nitro Points Series and I was back on top again. TQ'd and won the main. That wraps up the Championship for me. We race 8 weeks and count each racer's five best races. For me that is five wins(100 points each) and four TQs with those wins(an extra 4 points) giving me a 504 for the season.

[CRSMP5]

my track has 7 turns, 6 of which are tight, 2 table tops, 2 big jumps to table top, 2 sets of tripples, 2 doubles, one long straight, and a big sweeping turn after the straight to the 1st jump up tot he table.. a picco has way way to much bottom end for the track, it is hard enough to not wheelie the savage out of those turns.. forget using a picco in it.. but on other hand.. picco in buggy.. lots of low end, no wheelies, ability to slide it thru the turns.. i can see 18t cb, and good 50mph on the straight.. :D then for back yard bashing.. i can use the picco in the savage..

[romulus]

Casey, the undisputed champion :D

[Norm1968]

Excellent job Casey, but why not keep the victories coming? Sounds like Michael Schumacher's season last year in F1. :)

[k_bojar]

CRSMP5 - Where is your track located?? I wanna go race there :D:):D That track sounds awesome :)

Casey - Good job :D Nice to see a Lightning fare well against some of the heavy competition :) Now if only I get some time to run mine, again :);):(

[CRSMP5]

http://www.brownshobbyshop.com/

its on the ohio river by mountaneer well oppisite side..

http://www.brownshobbyshop.com/pictures/track/thetrack.JPG

[Casey]

Thanks guys! I'm going to race the rest of the season and you can bet I'm not going with the hopes of finishing anything but 1st. It sure is cool beating the guys with the "expensive" buggies. One guy is running a Kanaii II with an OPS, another has the new Mugen MBX-5 with the brand new version O.S. race engine. I love hearing "What buggy is that?" and "What engine are you running?" and telling them "It's just a Lightning with an old 4-port Hyper 21."

Did I mention I love this buggy?

[SpeedMunkey]

After ripping my pull start out for the very last time, and returning that worthless piece of crap called a Jump Start/Roto Start, I'm now finally using a starter box. So much easier to use, I'm lovin it!

Now, my question..... I was reading this thread and someone said they were going to remove the one-way bearing as it was causing lost power. Anything to this theory? I've got no use for mine or the pullstart, so both could go. What kind of plate will cover the back end of a .21BB?

[kyoshofan420]

I had a question about fuel changing. I am presently running Traxxas 20% in my Lightning, but I am near empty, so would it be a big difference if I switch to Trinity Monster Horsepower 20%? Right now the engine runs at 200-220 degrees. How much hotter will the engine get if I use Trinity fuel? I will appreciate any help and thanks in advance:) Oh yeah, great job on the victories Casey.

[romulus]

Speedmunkey,
I have to assume that you are referring the stock engine. I did remove the one way bearing in my picco because every time the engine stalls or I shut off it pulls back the cord. As for the stock engine you have to remove the back plate and remove the starting pin and spring. Once your remove these items, the starter shaft will become loose. You take out the shaft and use a nut and screw to seal the opening. Make sure you use the silicon sealer that everyone uses to seal all the air leaks. As for me, I did left the starter shaft but I put a good amount of sealer to secure it. As far as less drag without the pull start, I don’t see any difference. I hope that will help

Kyoshofan,
I heard mixed opinion about using Trinty fuels, some people says that it makes your engine run hotter and at the same time will gum up the carb. Other says that is fine. One of the guys ran most of the time traxxas fuel then for some reason (out of stock??) switched to Trinity then he started to have heating and gumming problems. He switched back to traxxas and the problems were gone after cleaning the carb. In my personal opinion, if you want to try out another brand of fuel, go ahead as long as you stick with the same nitro content that you are running. Get only a quarter first to so that you don’t need to waste a gallon if you get bad results.
Cheers!

[desai]

ok here's a little update on the status of my lightning pro. Owned it for little under a month now and ran over half a gallon through it.

Damage: None. I havent broken or lost a single part.
Maintenance: Only the airfilter. Otherwise I havent replaced a sinlge thing on the buggy. Not even the stock glow plug.

Anyway, I have had zero problems with this buggy. Havnt made a single trip to the hobby shop. My pullstarter is in good shape. Dont see how speedmunkey messed his up.

[SpeedMunkey]

Probably for the same reason about 8 other guys at my track have replaced them. Pulled too far out, spring broke, rebuilt it, broke again, rebuilt, broke, gave up and said screw it cuz pullstarting sux anyway and bought a bump box. How hard are you running that pristine Lightning? I run a 10' wide lane banked short track oval with 5 on the track at a time. Carnage is the dish of the day at my track on race day ;)

Update on my parts situation:
Left front steering knockle - 3 of em
Left front knuckle carrier - 2 of em, including one just 15 minutes ago
Replaced the steering bellcrank assembly, including the posts. As it wears out, it becomes very stiff for some reason. $10, it steers like new again.
Stock tires are now nice and slick, perfect for slinging that rear end around when the track is dry.
Totally destroyed the stock body.

I THINK that's all I've done to the poor thing, but I'm sure I've forgotten sumthin. Oh I did have a royal pucker moment a couple nights ago. I bought an MIP temp sensor, the on-board kind, and I had it out in front of my house getting it hot... Well, I hit a bump or sumthin and one of the reciever batteries popped out slightly... WOT straight down my street. Scared some poor old man outta his mind when it slammed into the hedges infront of his house. No damage though, gotta love that =) It ran WOT for a got 30 seconds and never got over 250, amazing =)

For the guy wanting to switch fuels, don't do it. At least not to Trinity.. I ran Trinity, had major problems with heat and tuning. My shop was out of Trinity, so I had to buy Traxxas, and I've not bought Trinity since. The only good use for Trinity is air filter cleaning! I'm actually going to try a new fuel this weekend, HPI.. My shop is going to start carrying it in gallons, so I thought I'd give it a whirl. Anyone used HPI fuel?

[desai]

ok speedmunkey, are you sure you ahve the lightning pro? cuz i dont for the life of me see how you could break the steering knucles. those things are cnc 7075 and look down right beefy yet beautiful. it must have taken some pretty hard hits. please describe how you could break all those parts.

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks for the reply Romulus:) They didn't have the traxxas stuff last week, so if they do now, I don't think I will switch.

[SpeedMunkey]

I didn't say I had the pro. But, a guy I run with that does have the pro, toasted one of his a few nights ago. He got put into the wall going into a turn full bore. It actually broke worse than mine usually do (mine usually strip the screws out, his broke the arm right off.) Imagine his dismay at paying $75 for a new pair =\ Least when I toast mine, it's a $5 fix. My track is a very rough, unregulated demolition derby. Run whatever ya want, however ya want, no restrictions other than scale classes. Wanna strap a jet engine to it? If you can get it on the track, it can run... People run the wall in the turns and slam right into you. (imagine a NASCAR leaving the track and going onto the wall to drive around the turns, that's what I'm talking about.) The crowd loves it though, so it is allowed. I talked to the track owners and they are considering adding more dirt so it cannot be done because legit racers don't have a chance against it. I've tried it, but I value what's left of my car too much to do it very often unless it's like the final lap and the guy I'm running against is likely to do it too. I will say this about the Lightning though, it breaks far less often than the Ofnas running. My LHS says they sell more Ofna parts than anything else, and only about 25% of the cars are Ofnas. You do the math =)

[desai]

well i understand how you broke your knuckles now. the pro is a lot more durable than the RR. your track seems crazy, but how does the lightning compare to the kyoshos and mugens?

[Apis]

SpeedMonkey,

I sell The 7075 Pro Knuckles for 30 bucks. You can email what you want at kirk_klip@earthlink.net. I part out the pro kit, so if you need a new engine, shock towers, shocks, diffs, diff cases, etc. Just email me and they are yours.

Kirk
EBay ID = krik013

[Jeff Cain]

That's a really good price and I'll keep that in mind once I get mine. SpeedMunkey, you might want to consider a cheaper alternative for demo derby racing, $5.49 @ Tower Hobbies Lightning RR part #c8081. For $30 you could get 5 pairs of these bad dads!

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hbsc8081.jpg

[SpeedMunkey]

Yes, my track is pretty insane and that's just how we all love it =) Hey, "RUBBIN'S RACIN", right?

The Lightning is the dominant car on the track. Several guys run Ofnas, one guy runs a Hyper 7, another runs an MP-6 and still another runs something so modded we can't exactly tell what it started as. I"m thinking it's a very old Burns or sumthin... The Lightning has taken 4 out of 6 races so far, with only a super hopped up Ofna standing in the way of a sweep.

Apis, awesome price, I'll definitely be ordering a pair from you soon.

Jeff, that's what I buy weekly =) Bought a pair lastnight actually. I was amazed though that I didn't hafta use em. The knuckle turned out to be ok. Apparently the bottom screw managed to back out despite ample lock-tite. It came out, then the knuckle shifted position, thus tearing out the top screw and the carrier hole along with it. So, I now have added yet another right carrier to my ever growing collection. I only break the left, so I have like 6 rights now lol!

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by SpeedMunkey
I didn't say I had the pro. But, a guy I run with that does have the pro, toasted one of his a few nights ago. He got put into the wall going into a turn full bore. It actually broke worse than mine usually do (mine usually strip the screws out, his broke the arm right off.) Imagine his dismay at paying $75 for a new pair =\ Least when I toast mine, it's a $5 fix. My track is a very rough, unregulated demolition derby. Run whatever ya want, however ya want, no restrictions other than scale classes. Wanna strap a jet engine to it? If you can get it on the track, it can run... People run the wall in the turns and slam right into you. (imagine a NASCAR leaving the track and going onto the wall to drive around the turns, that's what I'm talking about.) The crowd loves it though, so it is allowed. I talked to the track owners and they are considering adding more dirt so it cannot be done because legit racers don't have a chance against it. I've tried it, but I value what's left of my car too much to do it very often unless it's like the final lap and the guy I'm running against is likely to do it too. I will say this about the Lightning though, it breaks far less often than the Ofnas running. My LHS says they sell more Ofna parts than anything else, and only about 25% of the cars are Ofnas. You do the math =)

Man - If you are spending that much on parts for weekly racing, I think its time to find a new track. Or get all the "racers" together and tell the track to get its act together and stop allowing such uncontrolled destruction (at least as you are explaining)

There is no way in hell, I'd put my Lightning on a track with mayhem like that - that is just purely redicious. No matter how much people like watching it, it sounds like it time to get the track owner/race directors to clean their act up...

Where I am, we only have a few tracks that 8th scales can run on - and if anything like that ever happened at any of the tracks, the racers would not be back to race even if it meant not racing the buggy. These things cost too much $$ to be destroyed on a weekly basis.

[Norm1968]

SpeedMunkey,WoW...bro! I'm with k_bojar on this one. I like racin' just as much as anyone else, and I realize that from time to time you can expect a mishap with another driver that cost money...i.e. parts. BUT, this mayhem your discribing is way outta bounds. Either your wallet is alot thicker with green than mine or you and the other racers that go to this track need to think either bouycot or sit down with the track owner and all the racers and agree on some rule changes as well as track layout changes.

I'm with some of the others..I'm not subjecting my car to somekind of insane madness just so other people get a few laughs. I paid good money for my buggy and want it to last as long as possible. Maybe they should require bodies painted in NASCAR themes if thats what they want or charge addmission to those that cheer this distruction derby and then devide up the proceeds amoungst all the racers that just destroyed there cars.

Let us know where this track is and what its called...I'm avoiding it like HIV.:eek:

[Casey]

Maybe its run by the Trilordy guys;) :) They seem to like destroying R/Cs. (Hey, I'll just THROW my buggy down a hill onto a paved parking lot. That would be cool.):rolleyes:

[SpeedMunkey]

It isn't QUITE that bad guys. The only parts I consistently break are the knuckle and carrier. The track doesn't encourage rough driving, quite the opposite really. They try to help the people having problems as much as they can. The wall trick is usually reserved for the final laps of the A-main and the crowd loves to see it. Most of the people are beginners (mostly Ofna owners) and many can't drive for squat. Get 5 1/8 scale cars going down an 8' wide straight and you will have problems even with good drivers. Then throw in someone that can't drive it, and, well, cartwheels will occur =) There is no, as far as I'm aware, intentional rough driving. It is just a wild track.

As for the money, I MIGHT spend $10 a week on parts, so it isn't that bad.

[kyoshofan420]

I went to the track to practice today, and man this buggy rocks:D I think I will change some things though. The springs seem too soft as I have a lot of scratchs at the bottom. I was told by someone using the Pro to use the Kyosho blues. I think 35wt shock oil will do and the diffs will be 5K(front), 7k(mid), and 1k back. I will try to add a second brake disk on the back of the center diff for a quad setup. Is there anything I'm missing?:confused:

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by SpeedMunkey
It isn't QUITE that bad guys. The only parts I consistently break are the knuckle and carrier. The track doesn't encourage rough driving, quite the opposite really. They try to help the people having problems as much as they can. The wall trick is usually reserved for the final laps of the A-main and the crowd loves to see it. Most of the people are beginners (mostly Ofna owners) and many can't drive for squat. Get 5 1/8 scale cars going down an 8' wide straight and you will have problems even with good drivers. Then throw in someone that can't drive it, and, well, cartwheels will occur =) There is no, as far as I'm aware, intentional rough driving. It is just a wild track.

As for the money, I MIGHT spend $10 a week on parts, so it isn't that bad.

Yea but still...My track will run 10 8th scales in a main/heat and I've never seen any kind of carnage like that....Aside from the occassionaly driver error (with usually resides on one car) never whole sale carnage....I feel sorry that you gotta run in those conditions

[Norm1968]

kyoshofan420, glad your impressed with the buggy. As for your setups you intend to use, sounds like what most use or pretty close. Setups are a personal thing, everyone has a setup that works good for them. You might want to try the Ofna blues too, I've read that the Ofna's and Kyosho's are pretty close in spring weights...but the savings is in money with the Ofna's. I still run the kit yellows but have 40wt in the front and 30wt in the rear. My chassis underside is pretty close to being cleaned of the factory copper color. I also run the stock motor with a Crazy Nut head so I can lean out my motor a tad. I'm going to go to a OS.21RG in the near future. The track I run on is pretty tight and the OS seems to do pretty good agaist motors like the Hyper 8 Port and a few other bigger (HP and RPM) motors. But keep trying setups til' you find your own personal one that works for you and the track(s) you run on. Good luck and welcome to the "Clan".;)

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks for the reply Norm:) The only reason I was thinking of the Kyosho blues is because someone running a Pro at my lhs track said that the Ofna blues are a little short in the back.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by kyoshofan420
Thanks for the reply Norm:) The only reason I was thinking of the Kyosho blues is because someone running a Pro at my lhs track said that the Ofna blues are a little short in the back.

Actually they are very close in size...I didnt notice any difference between the two rear springs

[SpeedMunkey]

isn't it cute how we have enough Lightning owners to get a version 2.0 thread going, yet the admins don't think there is enough interest to get HB a forum? With 25k++ views, I THINK there should be enough interest. What is the prejudice against HB? I think it is a load of crap that HB is relegated to this "Misc" hole in the wall.. It is one of the most popular club racers in the country right now, when will this be recognized?

Weekend results: I had my best qualifying time ever, made the B-main. Won that, but the usual problem of the bottom screw holding the knuckle occured. I didn't have time to tear it off and replace the collar, so I just put in a new screw and hoped for the best. Well, the best didn't happen and it threw the dogbone on about lap 15 of the A-main... My goal next week is to qualify for the A and only hafta run that, so the car should hold together for it hehehe

I know I can lick this problem. As I see it, when I thread lock the thing, it is locking the collar and screw together, and thus it is breaking the lock on the screw and knuckle. This allows it to back out. I lose the bottom one, then the top gets ripped out completely. Anyone got a suggestion on how to install this collar/screw without getting them locked together?

[Casey]

SpeedMunkey -

Congratulations on winning the B-main! Wish I could help you out with your knuckle screw problem. Luckily I haven't had that problem with my Pro(knock on wood). I'll look at my buggy to see if I can come up with something.

I'm heading to the track to go racing in about an hour(Week 7 of Monday Nitro Points Series). My brother finally got the engine in his Hyper 7 running decent so I'll be racing against him, too. He's pretty good so I might have a little more challenge this week. It's weird how we can both race any other guy nice and clean, but when we're running near each other we tangle quite a bit. Must be a little sibling rivalry.

[Apis]

I know I can lick this problem. As I see it, when I thread lock the thing, it is locking the collar and screw together, and thus it is breaking the lock on the screw and knuckle. This allows it to back out. I lose the bottom one, then the top gets ripped out completely. Anyone got a suggestion on how to install this collar/screw without getting them locked together?



I would suggest buying the Pro Knuckles for 30 bucks from me.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/49955/17.jpg

What I did on My car was to use JB-weld. I know it was extreme, but they never came out again. I went through two left knuckles till I had enough.

Here is my car if your interested

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/0.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/1.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/2.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/3.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/4.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/5.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/6.jpg
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/7.jpg

src='http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/2048.1536.jpg?x=2048&y=1536'>

[Apis]

Also, notice the Long Bolts that go all the way through the differential case. The screws stripped out so I just drill all the way through. The diff case dosen't come off the chassis anymore.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/8.jpg

[Norm1968]

Casey, good luck tonight. Don't let the rivalry get carried away. Let us know how you did.

Apis, great pics! Thanx. As of yet (knock on wood...Norm's knocking on his head) my front knuckle screws haven't worked loose. I check em' after each run, there still factory tight. Some of the other Lightning drivers at my local track have suffered this problem though. What motor is that in your buggy? I'm planning on putting an OS.21RG in mine.

Sorry I can't offer any advice on the knuckle screw problem.:(

[Apis]

I am running the stock engine. So you all know, it is a Nitro Star .21BB built from Noverasi for HPI. It is the same engine that come in the HPI Savage. In fact it is a rebuilt. I bought the stock savage Piston and sleeve, Push rod, Carb, and Front Bearing. The Head is from Nova and again, I ordered the HPI Savage Head. So, if your looking for parts for your Stock RTR or Pro engine, just ask for the HPI Nitro Star .21bb Savage.

Check out this link

http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/Lightning.htm

Down with Kyoshos

Apis

[CRSMP5]

wow.. yea i know it sux.. we shoudl have like a BIG huge spot just for us.. :D

[Casey]

Tonight we had some great racing. Huge overall turnout for our track.

There were eight 1/8 buggies. My brother was having engine problems and CVD problems, too. Not too much racing between the two of us. He ended up finishing 4th in the main. I won both qualifiers giving me the TQ and ended up winning the main. Next week is the last race for this points season.

I'm planning on running my Hyper 7 with an O.S. RG for the next points season to see what I can do with it. Of course I'll have the Lightning along for backup.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by SpeedMunkey
...I know I can lick this problem. As I see it, when I thread lock the thing, it is locking the collar and screw together, and thus it is breaking the lock on the screw and knuckle. This allows it to back out. I lose the bottom one, then the top gets ripped out completely. Anyone got a suggestion on how to install this collar/screw without getting them locked together?

Actually from what I've noticed - at least on mine - is that the collars arent quite long enough to clear the plastic hub carriers. So what is happening when you tighten down on the screw instead of "grabbing" the metal (of the collar) you are grabbing the plastic of the carrier :) The constant torque of throwing the wheel left-to-right forces, even a thread locked screw, loose :D TA DA!!!

Still trying to figure out a permanent solution (i.e., finding someone else's collars that are longer than the HB), but a fix would be to dremel (with the right bit) a little bit of the hub carrier away where the screws go in...This in effect will make the collar(s) longer and give the screw head something to grab other than the plastic :D:) Now I gotta warn you, I have tried this yet on mine, but plan on doing it the next time I loose a screw :):D

[Apis]

This is right. You reminded me that in addition to using JB-Weld, I am using GS Storm collers. Try them, they are longer.

[SpeedMunkey]

How about this for a fix:

Get a brass tube of the proper diameter, inside and out, cut it to a length giving about 1/32 or 1/16 clearance on both sides of the carrier, then lock-tite the entire thing? That's my plan if I break again this weekend.

What I did today though, was a bit less radical. I installed the collars, then the knuckle, then I pushed the collars down as far towards the knucles as I could, lock-tited the screw and put it in one side at a time, allowing the lock-tite to cure fully before touching it.. That this did was give me plenty of play (well, realtively speaking, still only talking about 1/32" - 1/16") in the assembly so that it doesn't bind up. I just got back from running about 150 nice hot laps with it and so far it is holding. Tomorrow I'm going to tear it down and see if everything is still holding. If it does, about 4 other guys at my track are gonna wanna hug me for figuring it out! lol

EDIT: Got a part number and supplier for those GS collars?

[Apis]

sorry. I was in need of collars after mine fell out and I couldn't find them. I went to the LHS and of corse, the Lightning stuff was all back ordered, so I bought the GS Storm collurs. They are just a tad longer. I bought another set after I figured out that the stock ones are to short. I run the storm on all four collurs now.

I still have lots of Parts for sale.

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/56233/0.jpg
$90 with Golden Horizon head
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/49955/6.jpg
$20 for the bevel gears
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/49955/7.jpg
Front, Rear, and Center Diffs each for $20
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/49955/3.jpg
Front universals axles for $25
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/49955/21.jpg
Front and Rear Pro Shocks for $40 for the pair.

I have other stuff also.
Email me at kirk_klip@earthlink.net

[SpeedMunkey]

I'd be interested in getting some of those GS collars from you. How much for about 12 of em shipped?

[Apis]

Sorry, I don't have GS Stuff. I just went down to the hobby shop and bought them there.

[SpeedMunkey]

I was kinda hoping you'd get me some from your hobby shop. Mine doesn't carry GS stuff, only Traxxas and Hot Bodies.

But, it's ok, I think I got it licked. I checked it over and the screws seem fine after the marathon I put it through lastnight. Ran it for an hour solid, refueled 4 times. I believe I was just over-tightening it, so that the carrier was getting bound between the knuckle and screw, making the screw backout... It has free movement now, with minimal play.

I also went to the hardware store and got some copper tubing, cut and drilled it to the right size and did a dry fit on some extras (I have 5 right carriers and right knuckles to work with lol!) Seems to work fine, with no binding whatsoever. If my current installation fails, I'm trying that next. Then after that, I'm buying the Kyosho CNC carriers and the HB CNC knuckles. I'm sick of breaking these things.

[CRSMP5]

here is a question for you guys.. what is the pipe that comes on the pro? copy a rb or anything like that?

[Apis]

I have been thinking of getting new diffs for the lightning. Everyone says these diff are the best. Just wondering if anyone has installed and ran them in their lightings.

http://www4.tpg.com.au/users/rikim/fioroni.html

Any opinions would help.

I don't know Who makes the stock tuned pipe for the lighting. I would guess it was made by HB or HPI.

[CRSMP5]

no.. the pipe is made by someone other than them.. hb pipe is completly differemt, the dirt demond has the duratraxx pipe on it, and a savage comes with a plastic one.. i could have sworn in one of the old old posts someone had determined it to be some copy of somehting like a rb.. and im just tryign to find out..

now why would you spend 200$ on one diff? i just canot do it for a 320$ buggy.. the HPI savage gears, ofna gears, will fit the diffs and are of a solid design.. some 10k oil and all will stiffen her up.. also the diff shims will make it harder to turn too.. next time i have my lightning apart im shimming the center to see what effects it will give..

[kyoshofan420]

Hey everyone:) I had a couple questions on the clutch shoes that are stock on the pro. How long will they last and has anyone tried the aluminum shoes as a replacement? Any help will be appreciated and thanks in advance:)

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by kyoshofan420
Hey everyone:) I had a couple questions on the clutch shoes that are stock on the pro. How long will they last and has anyone tried the aluminum shoes as a replacement? Any help will be appreciated and thanks in advance:)

I'm still running the ones that came with my buggy from the beginning. I was too lazy to put new shoes on when I changed the engine - so these clutch shoes have about 1.5 gallons of fuel and racing on them :D And I'm still running the original springs too :):D

the only thing I've done to my shoes it removed the shine with a green scrubby pad and the put them back in - I'm not seeing any signs of slippage or degraded performance

I may put aluminum shoes on mine eventually - just not this year :D

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks:)

[Andrew18]

Hey guys I need help, My center diff has blown out twice in the one day. the diff was running great until i decided it was time to put 7000 wt oil in it. I broke the diff apart, cleaned it, filled it, and put it back together the same way i took it apart. I took my buggy to the track and the darn thing blew on me. The case melted around the four little gears and is would no spin freely. So I then put a new diff with new case aand gears and it did it again. This time I caught it quickly enough only to notice that the case was ok but, the gears were completly stripped. I have one more set of gears so i decided to ask for some help to see what you guys can do for me. My diff seems loose as if i can pull from the two outdrives and pull it apart. Well not apart but with a lot of play. It also seems when i put some pressure on the ends it seems to spin a lot better getting a good mesh in the gears. Well other than this I love my buggy. It has run good and i have gotten the confidence to start racing after a month of playing with it. Also can someone tell me about there setup as far as shocks, springs and spacers. I have no understding in this. ALso the front and rear diff are working good. If anyone want to get one of these buggies it would be a great invesment( i got mine thru Slammin Sam) Well good luck and take care

[Casey]

Sounds like you need to shim your diff gears. If they aren't shimmed right you're going to keep chewing up diffs.

[CRSMP5]

it sounds as if the diif lock oil is too thick, the gears do not want to turn, so it wiped the plastic housing out.. interesting.. as for the gears.. IMO they are very cheap vs a ofna or even HPI savage gear set.. when i screw up my gears those will be the 2 sets of gears ill look at putting in teh lightning but so far min ehas no issues with 5k oil in center, front and 3k in back...

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
it sounds as if the diif lock oil is too thick, the gears do not want to turn, so it wiped the plastic housing out.. interesting.. as for the gears.. IMO they are very cheap vs a ofna or even HPI savage gear set.. when i screw up my gears those will be the 2 sets of gears ill look at putting in teh lightning but so far min ehas no issues with 5k oil in center, front and 3k in back...

7000 weight isnt too heavy...I run 10k in my front diff and dont have any problems...

Andrew - Sounds like Casey hit it on the head...You're missing a shim or two :( that kinda sucks...I havent rebuilt my diffs from the initial time I refilled them, so I'm not gonna be much help in the "How many shims" department ;)

As far as set-up, this is what I run on my local track:

Front Suspension:
40 weight oil
blue OFNA springs (or Kyosho - I'm cheap so I went with OFNA's)
8mm of spacers
Dog bones just about level
Shocks in the "stock" mounting positions
-3 degrees of Camber
0 degree toe

Rear Suspension:
25 or 30 weight oil
Blue OFNA springs
10mm spacers (ride height adjusters)
Dog bones just about level
Shocks in the "stock" mounting positions
-3 degrees of camber
Kit rear toe-in
Moved spacers on the rear hub to make the wheel base a little shorter

Diffs:
Front - 10k
Center - 5k
Rear - 1k

Sway Bars
Depending on track conditions - either tight or loose any combo of the two :)

I'm also running ProLine Crime Fighters tires

My track is a hard packed (not really blue groove) clay-ish stuff :) It holds water pretty well when wet so traction is usually VERY good - sometimes almost too good

[SpeedMunkey]

what style of track is that setup for? offroad? oval?

[Apis]

Originally posted by Andrew18
Hey guys I need help, My center diff has blown out twice in the one day. the diff was running great until i decided it was time to put 7000 wt oil in it. I broke the diff apart, cleaned it, filled it, and put it back together the same way i took it apart. I took my buggy to the track and the darn thing blew on me. The case melted around the four little gears and is would no spin freely. So I then put a new diff with new case aand gears and it did it again. This time I caught it quickly enough only to notice that the case was ok but, the gears were completly stripped. I have one more set of gears so i decided to ask for some help to see what you guys can do for me. My diff seems loose as if i can pull from the two outdrives and pull it apart. Well not apart but with a lot of play. It also seems when i put some pressure on the ends it seems to spin a lot better getting a good mesh in the gears. Well other than this I love my buggy. It has run good and i have gotten the confidence to start racing after a month of playing with it. Also can someone tell me about there setup as far as shocks, springs and spacers. I have no understding in this. ALso the front and rear diff are working good. If anyone want to get one of these buggies it would be a great invesment( i got mine thru Slammin Sam) Well good luck and take care

Does the car go farward? If it dosn't move, or moves slowly with lots of gas, you may have put the front or rear diff in backwards. This causes the gears in the center diff to spin, spin so much to strip them. It is like if you hold one wheel causeing the gears in the diff to spin which directs power to the other wheel. Think of the front and rear diffs a wheels. If you prevent one from spinning, all the power goes to the other diff.
You may have the diff in correctly, but have a drive shaft locked. Make sure you can push the car by hand on the ground freely. It should roll like 10 feet or so with a good push.

Basicly, there is something in the drivetrain that is sticky or stuck that is causing the center diff gears to spin. find out what that is, and it should solve the problem.

As for my car, I have 3k front, 7k center, 1k rear. I have 35wt in front shocks, 30wt in rear and running the GS Spring set which comes with two springs in 3 spring rates. The fronts have a large blue(soft) with a small red(heavy). The rears have a large yellow(medium) and small red(heavy). I have about 4 turn on the anti squat screws with the shocks mounted in the highest holes on the shock towers. This causes the car to sit low. Great for the corners, bad for landing big jumps. When the front of the car is lifted at a 45 degree angle and droped, it should level out so the lower swing arms are straight. This test is the rule of thumb, but my car levels out below straight. Again great for the corners. This setup is great for fast, flat tracks, so you may want to set your car up just a little. Rule of thumb is to lift the car up at a 45 degree and drop it. If the car dosn't level out with the swing arms straight, make ajustments. Also, look at how quickly it levels out. To slowly, decrease your shock oil. Heavier shock oil is good for big jumps, bad for tracking and corners. Light oil, bad for jumps.

I hope this helps.

You can see my car on
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=135717&perpage=20&pagenumber=23

or
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/62275/8.jpg

[SpeedMunkey]

Apis, what kind of setup would you suggest for a hard packed oval? I've not really changed anything from stock, not even the diff and shock oil. All I've done to adjust the suspension is tighten the sway bars and add c-clips. I also moved the wing forward. Suggestions are welcome =)

[Casey]

Just got back from the races. It was week 8 of our Monday Nitro Points Series and also the last race for this points season. There were 7 buggies running tonight. I won both qualifiers giving me TQ and also won the main. Out of the eight races, I've got 7 TQs, 7 Wins, and one third place. For the points, they take your 5 best races and throw out the three worst(or DNS). That gives me a perfect score of 505 with the second place guy at 494 and third at 493.

Next Monday night starts a new points season. I'll be running my Hyper 7 with O.S. 21 RG. Hopefully I'll do as well with that one.

Well, I'm done bragging. I hope I'm not coming off as cocky. I'm just pretty darn proud of what I've accomplished these last two months. Later guys.

[Andrew18]

Well the problem with the diffs seemed to be corrected. i went to the local track and took the ideas from you guys and they told me that i needed shims. I asked where to put them and the guy told me that i need to shim the drives. So we went to it i placed teflon washers before or to the outside of the pin that retains the bigger gear inside the diff. I did this two both sides and this seemed to cure the problem of the shims being loose. Also i am going to get ofna internals for the next rebuild in about 3 weeks. I was wondering if I shoud have added more shims to the four present on the back of the smaller shims already in place? Hey guys....thank YOU for all the replies....yous take care

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by SpeedMunkey
what style of track is that setup for? offroad? oval?

That's for a standard off-road racing :) We dont run dirt oval where I live ;):D

Track pics are at http://www.pottbellysrc.com

[Apis]

I have never ran on a dirt oval, but my gutt tells me to run stiff sway bars. I know GS has a sway bar set with 3 different bars. Get the car as low as possible. Use stiffer springs with heavier shock oil. The basic idea is to prevent car roll, this helps to keep all four tires on the ground. Since there are no jumps on dirt ovals, you can screw those anti-squat screws really far. This will help with keeping the car low. That is my guess, I don't know how effective it would be or if there are more important adjustments like camber or toe-in that would provide more performance. I would think by keeping the car low and preventing it from swaying will give you a good starting point at getting fast laps on flat dirt.

[SpeedMunkey]

Happiness is.........

Knowing you are stopping on the way home from work to buy a brand new Lightning Pro that is being held buy your LHS for you at this very moment :D :D :D :D I should be breaking it in at about 6:00EST tonight. JOY!

Apis, that is basically what I've been reading on a web page about oval racing. The link is:

http://www.nascart.com/

Great page, lots of good tips for racing. Maybe not especially for buggy racing, but physics are the same for all cars. I used the info for being loose coming out of the turn and it worked very well for me. Tonite I plan to slam my car as low as possible and see how well that works. Should I go below level on the arms? I've always read you shouldn't do that...

[Casey]

Good luck with break-in. The engine in my Pro was one of the easiest I've ever broken in. An absolute breeze.

[blemaxx]

Just a quick ? What ofna diff. gears work for the lighting? and can you buy extra shims for them? And part# if you have it. Thanks

[Apis]

If you don't mind scratching the bottom of the chassis, then go ahead and go below level. I would use harder springs and thicker shock oil. The rule of thumb for basic off-road tracks it level. But since we are talking about dirt oval, get that car as low as possible.

[SpeedMunkey]

Casey, yeap, this will be my second 21BB. Yer right, it's an easy tuner usually.

Apis, I worried about scratching the chassis the first couple hundred laps with my RTR, after that it got easier =) I'm finally getting to install the radio gear on the new one. Been a busy night. It won't see fuel till tomorrow night =\ Hope I get it going and tuned by saturday's race =)

[DodgeRamSRT]

Fairly new to nitro, this is my 2nd .21bb break-in. Finally after about 1 1/2 mos I get to get my Lightning Pro going. Just checking over the carb settings, when I bottom out the LSN, the carb barrel won't move like it's been screwed shut. Have to back out the LSN more than 2 to almost 3 turns before it will move again. Is this normal? Didn't force it to bottom, just went right in. Have gotten one tank through, very hard to keep running, shuts off and will not restart hot. Will not run without glow starter on. Also when hot and almost at the bottom of the tank, It would run up the rpm's quite abit like the carb was open too far (even though it was closed/at idle. Adjust the mixture screws seem to have little effect. I don't remember my other .21bb being so hard to keep running, am I being impatient or do I need to start looking for problems? Thanks for your help.

[CRSMP5]

thats odd indeed.. when tank is almost empty it sounds liek its leaning out aka reason it revs higher, you sure the pressure line is not damaged to the tank?

is the MSN still flush? when turning LSN in all the way the throttle needs to be open to keep from hitting it..

[blemaxx]

Sounds like one of the lines to me. That would be the first thing I would check. But the glow ign. thing shouldn't effect that?

[CRSMP5]

actually glow starter sounds like its needed due to glow plug failing... as in its gotten so hot too many times its about to not work... due to lean issue..

[DodgeRamSRT]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
thats odd indeed.. when tank is almost empty it sounds liek its leaning out aka reason it revs higher, you sure the pressure line is not damaged to the tank?

is the MSN still flush? when turning LSN in all the way the throttle needs to be open to keep from hitting it..

Lines are brand new, but will recheck in the A.M. Have no problems getting fuel to the carb. When it revs up, it does sound like it's a lean condition - no excess fuel/smoke coming from the pipe for the about 1/2 the whole first tank, (at least not like the last one I broke-in). I'm concerned that it's running way to lean for break-in. Never touched the MSN, was warned not to with last .21bb. No The MSN is not flush, it's in a little about one of these - . Should I check that it's set to factory specs (3 3/4 out) too? Will try a new plug tomorrow also, never seem to have good luck with this brand. Good thing I've got a starter box or I'd have pitched this thing... Thanks for your help.

[DodgeRamSRT]

CRSMP5 is the winner! Unfortunately I followed the instructions and didn't mess with the MSN. Also unfortunately it turns out it wasn't "factory preset" at 3 1/4 turns out. More unfortunately it was completely bottomed out. OUCH! Now I've gotta wonder how much damage was done to the engine from me trying to get it started and running the 1st tank through it that lean. Got the rest of the break-in done this morning and is running great. Now off to my favorite bash area to tune it and have some fun! Thanks for your help and suggestions guys!

[CRSMP5]

:) glad to help... the savage does that big time when i run the header tank out of fuel... whcih is how i know it was a lean issue... but thats how you learn...

as for damage.. i doubt any happened.. like you said it was the inital tank and would not run long enough to be a issue...

[NitoIgniter]

http://www.slymaxx.com/images/rcnt/P1010151.JPG

It's a bird... no it's a plane.... no it's a Hot Bodies Lightning Pro!

I did this all day and didn't break anything. I love this buggy. Ming Yang did a bang up job on it. I do suggest the MP75 diff gear upgrade though.

CRSMP5, man you missed out on a sweet bashfest (http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6591) man.

[blemaxx]

hey is this the diff. set you are talking about? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD22&P=Z