CEN MT2 Truck forum

[xdamxincx]

Man every time i take the body off my car to tune it i find another part that i messed up when i hit that I beam just for those that might care this is what all ive broken that i know of so far...
Front Gear Box
Two front Suspension Arms
Both universal swing shafts ( one bent other one snapped in half)
The shock tower
front body mount
two hing pins
a differential joint cup
and about three or four other various screws

Total of about $70 all of which couldve been avoided by a larger front bumper...needless to say my newera bumber is on its way!!! Other than that this is still a great product and everthing else is holding up well

wow ur ruff on a truck man...slow down ..lol

[CENST2RACERX]

Hey Bguy, The bumper is going to help, but you need the roll bar and alum. brake seat. They stiffen up the chassis big time and you won't break so much when you hit something. As for servos, I use HI Torque servos on both. Remember, the stock radio and servos are junk. I have my servo saver screwed down as tight as it can be and I am turning it with 184oz of torque! I have my brake set up so I can tap on it and the rear comes right around. I use a 1200ah 6volt battery pack to power the servos.

[CENST2RACERX]

Hey Poor Judgement, Update on my projects. Both CVD's will work, But I don't quite like the finished fit. But I have a solution to our problems (I think). Give me a little time to work all this out. I am going to be using Tmaxx axle carriers and CVD axles mounted to the HPI MT CVD bones. If all goes right, we won't need tmaxx wheel adaptors anymore. We will have stronger CVD's With Tmaxx size axles!!!!
Keep your fingers crossed!

[Bguyinvegas]

In regards to the first accident that caused 99% of the damage, I was out in the cold with three guys two of which i had just met. One had a T maxx the others had new Revos. It took me a good two hours to get the thing started because as i found out later my glow plug heater was malfunctioning it only lit it when i hit it juuuuuuust right. Anyways, i was tired pissed off and most of all embarassed finally my car starts going and of course the controllers antenna isnt up and off goes the truck right into an I beam holding up a parking roof. I fully plan on getting the roll bar and the aluminum brake seat but not till tax returns come in...rent comes first, unfortunately. LOL, Although all the parts are in tact the body is totally screwed up now i decided to teach myself today how to take it off of a home made ramp which ended up landing it on its lid about three or four times dragging itself for about 5 ft each time. Anywho ill get pix up once my dig camera starts working again. laters guys

[Poor Judgement]

Hey Poor Judgement, Update on my projects. Both CVD's will work, But I don't quite like the finished fit. But I have a solution to our problems (I think). Give me a little time to work all this out. I am going to be using Tmaxx axle carriers and CVD axles mounted to the HPI MT CVD bones. If all goes right, we won't need tmaxx wheel adaptors anymore. We will have stronger CVD's With Tmaxx size axles!!!!
Keep your fingers crossed!

nice one mate, i have a few more bits in the post to finish of the centre diff chassis so that should be up and running very soon i hope. the weather here isnt much fun tho...

i should end up with a hard as nails jt racing truck, and a centre diffed buggy too, man there are spare parts all over the place here! just got to find some cash for a os18 tz for the buggy - oh and of course i will wait impatiantly for the better shafts too!! :D

[CENST2RACERX]

Just finished my rear dual exhaust system. It sound like a big block!!! I will have pictures soon.

[Bguyinvegas]

Just finished my rear dual exhaust system. It sound like a big block!!! I will have pictures soon.

two questions for ya cuz man how i would love to upgrade this pipe where did you get it from and is it side or rear? (im assuming rear but you never know)

Anyone know of a good air filter upgrade? Or are they all pretty much the same on the fun factor?

[sshculer]

CENST2RACERX, any news on the T-maxx axle carrier mod? I ordered some T-Maxx axle carriers in anticipation.

[sshculer]

Call me crazy, but I got an idea to go along with CENST2RACERX's idea with the t-maxx axle carrier project. Instead of using a combination of MIP CVDs and axles, what if you used the entire stock t-maxx half shafts? I think they can just be cut down enough to fit in the fun factor. I am working out how to have it mount to a modified CEN dif cup. I really do think this could work. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I think I am going to run out a get a set of the t-maxx half shafts to give it a shot.

[chewy]

Hopefully I got the right name for it, but I need to find a place to order a replacement gear, I am guessing it is the low speed gear, but when I give it gas the motor just revs up and truck goes no where. Gears are red. Also I need a new steering servo, mine makes crunching noises when I turn left or right. Thanks in advance.

[Bguyinvegas]

Hopefully I got the right name for it, but I need to find a place to order a replacement gear, I am guessing it is the low speed gear, but when I give it gas the motor just revs up and truck goes no where. Gears are red. Also I need a new steering servo, mine makes crunching noises when I turn left or right. Thanks in advance.

I have the exact same problems with mine. Im not too worried about the servo but with the gears what happens is it pulls away from the motor cuz brake seat is ****. Get an aluminum brake seat and that will fix that from happening again. The gear you need is a T47 you can find it on www.toyhaus.com. Just make sure you get the one for the two speed and not the one speed. Youll see what i mean when you go to the site. Im currently playing with the idea of putting a whole new gear set in it but im trying to decide which ones to go with. Ill have that all figured out in probably about another month or so. But ill post which ones i go with if i do decide to change the stock ones. The only thing that sucks about these is getting replacement parts, on Toyhaus the gear is $5.90 but shipping has a 5 buck minimum so you should get the brake seat at the same time.

[chewy]

I have the exact same problems with mine. Im not too worried about the servo but with the gears what happens is it pulls away from the motor cuz brake seat is ****. Get an aluminum brake seat and that will fix that from happening again. The gear you need is a T47 you can find it on www.toyhaus.com. Just make sure you get the one for the two speed and not the one speed. Youll see what i mean when you go to the site. Im currently playing with the idea of putting a whole new gear set in it but im trying to decide which ones to go with. Ill have that all figured out in probably about another month or so. But ill post which ones i go with if i do decide to change the stock ones. The only thing that sucks about these is getting replacement parts, on Toyhaus the gear is $5.90 but shipping has a 5 buck minimum so you should get the brake seat at the same time.

Thank you! Looking forward to seein what you do.

[Poor Judgement]

chewy - check this ite out for info on makin ur funfactor a bit more reliable

click here (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.palmer97/CEN%20Test%20Pages/Mods%20to%20make%20a%20CEN%20semidecent.htm)

that should stop u stripping spur gears mate! look for the threaded rod with ball ends on amongst the pics, anything to reinforce the brake seat area really...

[cenracer1]

were did this site come from.... when I get the time I will post my mod to fix the brake seat/gear mesh problem... as I stated in another forum, I will torture test it tomorrow then post pictures of it... basically, just steering rods and tie rod ends..... ....I found this site because I also have several trucks... one of my other projects is a kyosho usa-1... since it hasn't been made in years, you have to be very creative.... unfortunately, nobody has been on the site in 2 months... maybe I have the only one left... well see....
Alot of the names here are familiar and I'm looking forward to sharing ideas with all of you......

[Poor Judgement]

nice of u to join us cenracer - im guessin u are one and the same from rcu?

[cenracer1]

yes... I tested the truck yesterday in the snow and rain... hard to really bash it too hard because everything was so wet.... took pictures of the mods but lost my cable to my digital camera so I have to wait on the downloads... the truck worked well....

[chewy]

I got the Hitech HS-645MG Ultra Torqe Steering servo and installed it on my MT2 and then when I go to steer right it turns left and when I steer left it turns right, HELP!!!!

[Poor Judgement]

there should be a servo revers switch somewhere on ur transmitter - flick the switch the other way and u are good to go mate!

[chewy]

there should be a servo revers switch somewhere on ur transmitter - flick the switch the other way and u are good to go mate!
I have tried that but the throttle goes nuts and the wheels turn..but I will try that.

[Poor Judgement]

I have tried that but the throttle goes nuts and the wheels turn..but I will try that

thats a bit odd...

[cenracer1]

check the throttle trim also... If you are using the stock cen mirage radio, that may be your problem... they are junk and prone to breaking... replace the transmitter and receiver...

[CEN Racing]

Been away for a couple weeks attending the Monster Jam Finals in Vegas, and the Silverstate nitro challenge. Nothing quite like seeing the GENESIS 46 crawl over a few cars in front of 60,000 people.

Sorry for the inconvenience on not anserwing any questions you may have. If anyone has any questions at all regarding our product you can feel free to email our customerservice@cenracing.com anytime!!! They are extremely knowledgable and will be more that happy to help you. Other than that, nows the time to ask any questions you may have.

Thanks guys!!

CEN Racing

[zippyhead]

Does anyone know what the shock oil weight comes stock in the MT2? Also, has anyone else had trouble with the rear dog bones wearing "grooves" into the rear drive axles? Everything is installed correctly. The problem is that the dogbones get locked into the grooves and cause poor suspension travel. Any solution would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Poor Judgement]

not sure on the weight of the oil, but the standard springs are way to stiff for my liking, might be worth trying some softer ones if u didnt already, if u are having handling issues...

if the dogbones are wearing the cups at the wheel end of the dogbone, then u could try fitting some front cvds on the rear. it may be just that the rear stub axle cups get dirtier and that accelerates the wear thru abbrasion...if ur fronts are holding up ok that is...

hope that helps

[zippyhead]

not sure on the weight of the oil, but the standard springs are way to stiff for my liking, might be worth trying some softer ones if u didnt already, if u are having handling issues...

if the dogbones are wearing the cups at the wheel end of the dogbone, then u could try fitting some front cvds on the rear. it may be just that the rear stub axle cups get dirtier and that accelerates the wear thru abbrasion...if ur fronts are holding up ok that is...

hope that helps
Thanks! I'll try some new springs. What springs have you found to be pretty good for just general bashing. I've noticed it doesn't seen like the suspension does very much. I will also try the front cvd.

[Poor Judgement]

i have a set of associated truck/buggy rear springs that i used on my rally setup, the cen springs were about as hard as the hardest associated ones. im not sure if there was a better solution, but for bashing they worked fine.

now i am running 1/8 buggy front shocks as i have done the mt conversion, i am using the stock springs - the shocks and springs are from the ofna ultra lx, and were a right royal pain in the ass to get to fit right... but they perform beautifully, a world apart from the cen shocks.

i have been told that tmaxx shocks and springs are pretty good on the funfactor too

[twisted]

out of the box, what does this trruck need to be reliable ?

[Poor Judgement]

twisted: a failsafe, decent radio gear - or at least a rechargeable rx pack and uprated steering servo - run a search on the rc universe forums for the diff cup mod, do that, and thats about it to get u running without any major bugs. some softer shock springs make driving a bit nicer too.

just dont expect it to take punishment like a savage will and u should be ok.

[xdamxincx]

well my mt racer got put aside and it doesnt look like i will be finishing it .. i was wondering if anyone would be interested in it ? .. i have two of them .. on is a stock mt2 with bigger fuel tank . hitech servo. basic racing mods .. only mod need done to it is the brass ring over the outdrive cups.. i broke one.. it has upgraded shock mounts and so on..
i also have a jt chassis that is brand new... anyone interseted email me xdamxincx@aol.com or instant message me.

[Poor Judgement]

u have mail xdamxincx

[Poor Judgement]

just fancied spamming some pics of my truck...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/104473/Ec88642.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/104473/Pk30359.jpg

[zippyhead]

Sweet! What kind of body is that and was it easy to fit? Also, I notice you have T-Maxx driveshafts. How did you get that to work?

[Poor Judgement]

the body is the cen rally schlesser, i had to cut the arches a bit to get the tmaxx wheels to clear it. the shafts use the tmaxx hubs - they screw straight onto the cen wishbones - and on the diff end i modded some cen cvs to make it work.

more pics and info here (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2888072/anchors_2889393/mpage_1/anchor/tm.htm#2889393) and here (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/T%2Dmaxx_axle_carriers_and_half_shafts_on_a_fun_fa ctor/m_2748818/tm.htm)

[twisted]

i like that body, do they sell it sepratly and where can i find one ?

[Poor Judgement]

i like that body, do they sell it sepratly and where can i find one ?

they are available, but they are expensive and very thin compared to say a hpi shell. just run a google search for "rally schlesser shell". i believe they are available in clear as well as the painted version. i had it lying about so threw it on there, as my supernitro escudo shell wont fit that i used on my rally setup, unfortunately.

[twisted]

they are available, but they are expensive and very thin compared to say a hpi shell. just run a google search for "rally schlesser shell". i believe they are available in clear as well as the painted version. i had it lying about so threw it on there, as my supernitro escudo shell wont fit that i used on my rally setup, unfortunately.


ehobbies has em. you werent kidding about being expensive. they want 36.99. ouch ! :eek:

[Poor Judgement]

sounds about right, they are around £35 here...

[Gustav]

Poor Judgement can you post a link too a place vere I can buy evrything I need to get dose weels on my truck?

[Gustav]

Cen Racing what fuel tank do you guys use for the MT2 when you race?

[Poor Judgement]

http://www.imexrc.com/default.htm for rims and tyres - the romulins and the 17-14mm adapter are what u need due to their offset, but u will also need the cen 14mm hexes which were available from www.renegaderc.com, but they appear to have stopped trading, keep an eye on e bay for them, u may get lucky.

if u want to go the whole hog and fit the tmaxx shafts so u dont need special hexes, then all the info is here (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2748818/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm) they seem to be working well after about 10 tanks now, the cen shafts were not very happy with those wheels, i broke a stub shaft on my first run with them...

i just found this regarding the 14mm hexes... 2nd paragraph down, in bold. maybe worth contacting cen or any other companies listed in that review.

[Gustav]

Thx.

Do somebody have some cool pics or vids of their trucks?

[Gustav]

But were do I buy the imex romulins incl 14-17mm adapter?

[Poor Judgement]

try thr link i gave u.... or run a search in google etc for romulins.... ebay perhaps....

[Oppo]

lo all,
I got my cen mt2 one week ogo and within the third fuel up, my brakes stoped working. Iam new within nitro RC, but iam shoure it`s not a calibrating foult but a fabric foult. Thats why iam interrested in upgrading my brakes. Which brake mod's are avaliable for this model.

thx Oppo

[zippyhead]

brake seat (highly recomended), steel brake disc (can't remember the part number). I changed my fiber pad to this (although I had no trouble with the fibre pad). Works great. I can set the brakes up to flip it forward if I'm not careful.

[Oppo]

This just migth be it:
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-cen-ffs009.html
or this
http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-cen-sps06.html

silly that the function of the parts is not better displayed.

Plz post other suggestions as well, in how to upgrade the braks, what is needed etc with links.

Btw, i had a jolly good time earlier today with the mt2. When exiting the high speed cornering, asfalt, i put the pedal to the metal and the mt2 got a flip due to the g-force i supose. U know, a flip like the one moterbikers get when they get out of balance exiting a corner and usally then getting thrown over the steering.. Anyway, the mt2 continued without more problems which made it the "spin of the day".

thx Oppo

[cenracer1]

try two things to prevent flips and fix the brakes... First of all replace the stock servo with a high torque one... I use a hi-tech mg645....
second, the truck doesn't run well on asphalt.. try lowering the suspension to about 1 inch lower... it will help alot... use shock spacers or limit straps...

[Oppo]

damn, i were to order shiping on parts from the stats to scandinavia, and the demanded 37$. This where to cover parts no more than 100g.
Sow, how may question is: who deliver parts to cen mt2 within europe.

thx Oppo

[Athion]

I recently got an MT2 and have been very pleased with it. The only problem I have had is breaking the dang Diff Cup on a semi-regular basis LOL :)

My neighbor is a retired machinist and loves to tinker, he says he can make a replacement diff cup out of Stainless Steel... I'm tempted to try it, but do you think replacing all 8 cups with stainless would add too much weight?

[CEN Racing]

No, replacing the drive cups with Stainless Steel as opposed to the current steel ones will not much weight, if any at all. ; )

CEN Racing

[Oppo]

Could someone plz provide me with eurpean cen mt2 dealers websites, or phonenummber.
I need parts, sow the cheaper the better.

[Oppo]

And iam woundering. In the manual wich follows the car, it is written that when braking in the car, u should turn in the main fuel nodd, befor turning it counter clockwise 3 and 1/2 full turns, This is way to much after my xperience. I only turn 2 1/2 full times, and then the engine works great.

[rollcage]

bought mt2 about 4 weeks ago seems pretty good modifications so far
rollcage (home made)
vented disk brake
hub bearing conversion
tubbing on shocks
more to follow
just wondering anyone else in lancashire area running mt2

[Oppo]

dunno, iam btw from oslo.

[Gustav]

Halla Oppo jeg er også fra oslo Bestill fra http://www.krick-modell.de/frameset.html
Bare send dem en mail og si hvilke deler du trenger.

[Brian23]

I got my Cen MT2 about 6 months ago

Well when i got it it wouldnt start i talked 2 a bunch of cen guys and they said it ws just a flood... ok so now 6 months later i find a hoby shop that works with cens... b/c ive been everywhere in my county and noone works with them. they all say cen's suck. So i started 2 give up on my cen until i found this one hobby shop. They had it going in no time at all. I had alot of fun just starting to break it in b/c it was my first nitro truck. . and the time before i ran it about 40 min b4 i was using it i didnt turn the radio box off. So i didnt look at it i jjsut hit hte swiccth that was supose to turn it on but turned it off. So i turned the remote on and started up the car. I was doing this iin my driveway and it went full throttle over the curb on the other side of the street and staright into my neighbors airconditioner. I tried to stop it but i couldnt. It was sping in a bush and the flywheel wouldint stop and i burnt my finger trying to plug the exhaust pipe. IM not sure what the little redwheels with grooves in them arre cold but they broke. But suprisingly the car didt get 2 damaged except for the tires coming off because i used a bad brand of glue. So if anyone can tell me what the little red wheels are which i think is the 2 speed transmsion and if its fixable.

Brian

[Oppo]

Halla Oppo jeg er også fra oslo Bestill fra http://www.krick-modell.de/frameset.html
Bare send dem en mail og si hvilke deler du trenger.

takker, går det i engelsk eller tysk. Betales det som postoppkrav eller visa.

Ragnar

[ffyez88]

Hi all, Well as I said kinda a noob, I had nitro boats in the past but back then didn't know what the web was. Ok now that I showed you my age I'll go on.

I had some electric RC'S in the past and I just bought the MT2. I've been to every site under the sun. My question here is what do I need to look out for? I understand the break in process and I read somewhere about marking the flywheel so you know the piston is sitting on the bottom. Can someone help me out with this one? Also noticed some people talking about glow plugs, I live in the south where it has been 110 with the heat index.... What glow plug should I pick up? Thanks all for dealing w/ an old noob!! :cool:

[rollcage]

plug wise it all depens on nitro % you are using for average say 16% nitro in fuel plug would be about a number 3 gust make sure you have mixture set correctly better to be slightly rich than lean

[ffyez88]

plug wise it all depens on nitro % you are using for average say 16% nitro in fuel plug would be about a number 3 gust make sure you have mixture set correctly better to be slightly rich than lean

10-4 Nitro will be 20%. Thanks

[Brian23]

can some1 tell me how 2 replace a stripped spur gear

[renchr528]

can someone tell me if it's hard to change the mt2 to a 4 wheel buggy or rally?

[CEN Racing]

MT - ATX Buggy

Different Gearing(clutch bell), tire, body, front shocktower

[Brian23]

is there anyway to start the truck with having to take the body on and off?

[CEN Racing]

You may cut off the windows on the body and reach the pull start that way.

[Brian23]

thx cen

[renchr528]

thx CEN RACING . the way it looked in the schematic I thought it would be much more. So it's only a couple of things

[125Mad6548]

Here's my question: is it possiable to make a CEN MT2 monster truck to go in reverse? I know that there are kits (like for TRAXXAS RC trucks) that allow a non-reverse RC car to have reverse but I havent been able to find anything for the CEN trucks.

Short version: Is it possiable to put a reverse kit on a CEN MT2?



My second question is: Does anyone know if there is a larger fuel tank for the CEN MT2? I know that the Genisis truck by CEN has a 220CC tank but does anyone know if it will fit on the MT2 or if there is another aftermarket tank out there that can replace the original 75CC MT2 tank.

Short version: Is there a bigger tank that fits the CEN MT2

Thanks,
125Mad

[CEN Racing]

125Mad6548

Unfortunly, there is no reverse module available For MT2 at this time. The chassis length just doesnt have enough room for another transmission.

You may remove the upper deck and use a 1/8 tank there or remove the radio box and install a 1/8 tank there.

[125Mad6548]

Does anyone know what the CEN screw set contains? (part #ff063)

Thanks,
123Mad

[CEN Racing]

The screw set includes all the screws on the Fun Factor series. Thank you for choosing CEN Racing

[Brian23]

how many teeth spur gear do i need 4 1st gear

[CEN Racing]

Dear Brian:

The Part number is G84307-01 and its 47T.

[CEN Racing]

*Newsflash*

Andy Smolnick TQs 1/8th scale and Big Block Monster truck running his CEN Matrix Buggy and Genesis Truck. Andy took the TQ in Monster Truck over Tamiya's Jimmy Jacobsen and David Jun by more than 9 seconds in both the first and second round. Andy also won the Truggy class by 15 laps over Jimmy Jacobsen (Jimmy was not 2nd place) using his Genesis Monster truck. We would like to congratulate Andy on his success and thank him for his hard work and dedication. He really does a great job.

Also representing for CEN was William Copley whom did a fantastic job in Big Block Monster truck finishing 3rd with his CEN Genesis. William is the man responsible for the Genesis setup sheets and he has been tearing up tracks all over the Midwest for some time now. CEN would like to give William a big thank you and congratulate him on his finish as well.

Overall it was a great race for the CEN team and we can't wait for Andy to get back to Southern California so we can shower him in champagne. (Non-alcoholic of course)

[Brian23]

can some1 tell me all the ttools i need 2 replace a spur gear?

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Hi guys

im looking for some wheels and tyres for my MT2, the cen ones seem prety expensive,

allso is there anyway i can fit 14mm hex hubs on my truck, there seems to be a lot more wheels and tyres available for 14mm hex's

any help would be good. : some of your pics look ace keep up the good work!

[Poor Judgement]

try www.renegade-rc.com for 14mm hexes for the cen mt. i found the halfshafts break fairly easily with tmaxx wheels on due to their size and weight. i modded some tmax and cen halfshafts to make tmaxx wheels a more reliable option on mine. details of the mod are here - www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2748818/tm.htm

hope that helps

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Yep that helps alot iv got some on order,

Thank you.

You boys got any more sweet mods?

[Newbie05]

Hi can anyone email me copies of the manuals that come with the truck, I have a very tatty copy of the parts one but would like the other ones as well thanks.

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Hi just had an email back off of www.renegade-rc.com they are are not currentlymaking the 14mm hexs for cen, im gutted!!! i was eyeing my self up a sweet pair of wheels and rubbers off e-bay, will any other 14mm hexs fit, or should i carry out the tmaxx mod???

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

The mod looks good but i dont really wanna shell out all that money for new mt shafts just to hack them up. So i was thinking couldnt you fit tmaxx half shafts on to the cen drive shafts, by drilling and grinding the end of the cen drive shaft? you'd still have to use tmaxx hubs. or would this be too much strain on the cen shafts?

Poor judgement have you got any of the 14mm hexes for the cen? if so can i buy them off of you please?

[Poor Judgement]

there is another mod that has just been worked out here - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3083513/mpage_9/tm.htm from about 1/4 way down the page, have a read around and it should make sense.

it uses 1/8 buggy cvs, hubs and diff cups, only the diff cup really needs modding iirc. early days yet with the mod, but he seems happy enough with it.

i do have one set of 14mm cen hexes, but theyre not for sale im afraid, sorry.

re the tmaxx mod, i just broke one of my tmaxx shafts by braking too hard on grass - twisted the shaft til it snapped, cheap to replace, but an on going problem...

its ur choice mate, either option is better than stock. only a few 14mm wheels will fit the cen tho, i know the imex romulins will for sure. its a clearance issue with full steering on, u need an offset of just 0.25" in the case of the romulins.

the cen shafts are massively different in size to the tmaxx ones i have here, i cant see any realistic way of mating them up.

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

ok Thanks il look into the other mod and keep an eye out on ebay for the fat cen shafts,

cheers

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Poor judgement

which hobby shop do you buy your parts from?

i cant get all the bits to carry out your mod on e-bay. unfortunatly!!

[Poor Judgement]

keep looking over a few weeks u will find all the bits. its only cen cvds, tmaxx plastic cvds and tmaxx hubs, u will need rc10gt steering servo mounts to use as shock mounts tho - careful with that bit. i got mine from www.asiatees.com to suit my ultra lx front buggy shocks. they clear the tmaxx shafts, unlike the standard cen shock mount.

hope that helps somewhat

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

hi

Are the tmaxx and the revo sliding cv drive shafts the same?

[Poor Judgement]

ive no idea im afraid, sorry

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Hi ebay is a god send

iv just got all the tmaxx drive shafts and complete hubs brand new for around £30 inc postage.

the cen shafts are a bit harder to find though.

have any of you had a problem with your clutch bell shearing off. mine broke earlier this week, cheap enough for a new one though.

[Poor Judgement]

ive stripped a few pinions, but never sheared or broken a clutch bell.

the cen cvs are usually availaible on ebay.co.uk but they still arent all that cheap from the regular seller. keep an eye out for them tho, they pop up real cheap once in a while.

[Poor Judgement]

did u get anywhere with the shafts, danny?

[Brian23]

ive been tring 2 change my spur gear and i got the whole back end off but i dont know how 2 get the geears off

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

iv got all the t maxx shafts but i still need the cen shafts i have 1 that i twisted before so i modded that and it fits. im worried about the diff gears though. it seems as though theres no suport for the bearings how are yours holding up?

i got some imex romulins and standard t maxx tyres, (massive) where did you get your washers from?

im waiting till november when i move to southampton to finish the mod, i will have access to a bench grinder and pillar drill through work, il keep you all posted.

is your mod still going strong?

[Poor Judgement]

yea mine is still all holding up ok, just waiting on some pinions at the mo - engine mounts moved... my fault for being to tight with the threadlock.

not too sure what u mean re the diff bearings - do u mean the lack of a pin thru the diff to support the modded cen cvs? if so i understand ur concern, i expected it to be a problem too, but all is good after well over a gallon thru the .28. i have only had issues with the engine eating pinions and/or spurs. running on dirt and the beach seems to have cured the snapped driveshaft issue, but i am considering the steel buggy shafts if they start snapping again due to me running lower ratios. they are quite twisted and will need replacing soon, but with ebay prices for the shafts, i can live with it if they last me over a gallon.

washers i got from wilkos! 25p for a pair of 5x25mm, cant complain!

if u need a threaded clutch bell, with or without gears, i have loads here i dont need anymore - especially the bells. let me know if u want 1 or some - cheap!

sorry if i already asked - what engine are u using?

brian - u got the 13 tooth bevelled gear off the shaft? if so its just the gears bearings that are holding the spurs on there, sometimes they stick quite well... ive used a large socket in the past to place the gears on then whack the shaft with a little hammer! probs best to do with the bevel gear on and a piece of wood in between the hammer and shaft tho... sometimes the bearings get wrecked, so be careful mate, but it might be unavoidable.

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

im using the original .16 engine at the moment, i dont know how it will cope with the shaft mod.

i think il run it till its dead then il upgrade to a bigger engine.

im good for clutch bells at the min but if i need 1 il get in contact with you.

yeah maybe it is that with the diffs it just dont seem right to me, il see how they get on.

[Brian23]

thx poor judgement i replaced the gear and im up and runnig again

[Alen_k]

Hello guys

My truck was rolling over and getting scratch on the engine head and as I can't find a roll over cage I remember to do something. I would like to have your opinion on this solution. I would like to know if you see any problem about it.
It also works as a handle bar :D

http://www.alquevaturistico.com/1.jpg http://www.alquevaturistico.com/2.jpg
http://www.alquevaturistico.com/3.jpg http://www.alquevaturistico.com/4.jpg
http://www.alquevaturistico.com/5.jpg


Thank you very much.
Alen

[CEN Racing]

wow.. NICE ROLL CAGE

[Alen_k]

eheheheh, thank you.
It's just a simple idea. :D

[Newbie05]

:D Very neat solution, any chance you could show more detailed pictures so that, we could copy it. ;) :)

[Alen_k]

Hi Newbie05, no problem :)
I will spam a bit with my pics :D
It's very easy to do and all I spent was 3 euros in aluminium (less than 4 dollars).
All you need is a rubber hammer, aluminium (280x40x1 mm), a ruler, a drill and some vinyl. If you want the letters you need someone to cut them for you. I have a plotter :)
As you can see it works well as a handle bar and you can putt you shell without problems

http://www.grafijat.net/6.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/7.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/8.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/9.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/11.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/12.jpg
http://www.grafijat.net/13.jpg

Hope that helps.
And yes I know... My car needs a good cleaning job :cool:
Alen

[Newbie05]

Thanks Alen K, "great pictures :cool:" he says putting on coat and heading for the nearest hardware store. ;)

[Alen_k]

Hello again :)

I'm now trying to solve the diff joint cup problem. As you know they break very easy. I saw someone somewhere :rolleyes: suggesting something like this:

http://www.grafijat.net/14.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/15.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/16.jpg

Does it works? How do you hold it in place? With super glue? I had an aluminium tube that fits like a glove as you can see :D
An other question is do you use "O" rings?
Thank you

Alen

ps: How's the roll cage or roll bar Newbie05?

[Newbie05]

Hi Alen, it's on a long list of things to-do, :( ;)

[Alen_k]

Hello guys
Need a little help here...
I got a new aluminium break set but the screws got loose and they did a mess... :(
I show you 2 pics to let you know what I mean as my english is not so good.

http://www.grafijat.net/17.jpg

http://www.grafijat.net/18.jpg

My question is how do you get those screws tight? If I get them tighter they will break the car...
Thank you

Alen

[cenracer1]

alen k... why are you running a single speed.. you should convert to the two speed.. its much faster and easy to do.. all the parts are drop in... also, those screws shouldn't be too tight as to break them.. Mine are very easy to adjust.. are you sure you have the correct thread type?... Nice job on the roll bar... would hate to scratch it up

[Alen_k]

Hi Cenracer1

Thanx for your help.
You helped me more than Cen's customer support that didn't even answered my e-mails... I know they have other trucks to sell and it seems to me that this truck is a "CEN old story". They sould think that people with MT2 may upgrade to other trucks, CEN trucks or not. Any way I'm thinking about buying a Revo or a Savage. CEN definitively never again. Trucks are good but support is not. No one here sells Cen replacements and if I need a 3 dollars part I have to pay 15 only for handeling and shipping expenses. If you think that my way of learning is try and see what happens...
That's why I'm running with single speed. If I get a 2 speed upgrade I will have to replace it by my self. If anything goes wrong... It went wrong with break set as you can see. The screws fit well but they are not tight, you know what I mean? I can't tight them more and with the vibrations they get loose. I'm thinking about get them in place with some super glue. I used the screws that were on the plastic part. The set only came with top and bottom screws.
About the roll bar it is not a problem to scratch it as it only need some vinyl job that is very cheap. And its allways good to change visual :D .I used some vinil that usually is garbage ;)
Thank you again m8

Alen K

[cenracer1]

I always have good luck with cen and their support always gets back to me... I have my mt2 and will be getting a nemesis and or matrix soon.. They will go well with all the others I have... Its very easy to replace the spur gears in the truck.. alot of people will help you with that one.... as far as the screws comming out... USE BLUE LOCKTITE... they won't come out untill you re ready..

[Brian23]

i myself have had alot of truoble with cen and getting parts... i jus tsold mine and im now getting the Mgt 4.6

[56nomad]

anyone help me, the mt2 quit working, i am not sure what i did.
anyone have a manual on the controller??? asap :confused:

[Poor Judgement]

Does it works? How do you hold it in place? With super glue? I had an aluminium tube that fits like a glove as you can see
An other question is do you use "O" rings?


Hi, yes it works great. I used sand paper to scuff up the diff cup and super glue to hold it on.

O rings will help too, yes. Use little bits of fuel line instead though - its cheaper!

Sorry nomad, I dont know about the manual - u tried emailing Cen?

[Sargyboy]

Cool, an MT2 forum :D

I've owned my MT2 for a little over a month now and I'll give my review here.

Likes:

-The MT2 is very fast out of the box
-The MT2 handles very well around corners and has much less rollover than my 2.5 T-Maxx did (I sold it a while back).
-The simple lay out of the MT2 is nice and much less complicated than other MT's out there
-The big receiver/battery box is very much appreciated
-Flexible body posts do not break nearly as often as those on a T-Maxx.
-Aluminum shock towers are a nice addition
-Easy .21 conversion
-Addition of a 125cc tank is nothing more than a little dremel work and the purchase of the tank (make sure there is room before doing so though)

Dislikes:

-Radio had a range of about 20-30 feet out of the box, sent in for warranty repair but haven't received it back yet
-Engine appeared to have a slight bend in the crankshaft that lead to two stripped spur gears, sent in for warranty repair haven't received it back yet
-No foam for the tires creates a bouncy ride off of jumps and while climbing obsticals at speed
-Some chassis flex in the middle, the roll cage from New Era Models should cure this problem
-Excessive play at the wheels, 10x15mm bearings on the inside of the hub carriers is supposed to cure this
-No local LHS support, everything must be mail ordered (at least for me)

Changes I've made to the MT2 so far:

-Added a JR XR2i transmitter, receiver and servo's to the MT2 since the orignial radio didn't work for me.
-Changed engines to an OS CV-Rx .15 just as powerful as the NT-16 but rev's a bit higher.
-Bought a 2nd set of wheels/tires: IMEX Claw Dawg tires and Traxxas 2.2 hex rims.
-Changed to ball ends on the front tie rods

Future modifications:

-New Era Models roll cage (sometime soon)
-New wheels (chrome) with Proline Masher 2000 tires
-10x15mm bearings at each axle
-125cc tank for long run times with the OS CV-Rx .15 ( should be in the 20 minutes + range)

Overall observations:

The MT2 has proven to be a pretty durable truck. I have done many flips and tumbles with the truck and other than stripped spur gears the only part I've broken was the front lower a-arm and that was my fault for running it into an immovable object.

The truck has excellent handeling on the ground. It corners with much more speed than a T-Maxx and doesn't roll over nearly as much. Jumping is a bit more tricky with the MT2. Since it has a shorter wheel base and large tires hitting the throttle or the brake causes much greater movement in the air than it did on my old T-Maxx. This can cause nose up or nose down landings. Smaller tires help with this a lot, but then you loose some of your MT look and ability.

I would like a bit more on power steering out of the MT2. I'm not talking about full power steering as no RC car has much steering while at full power. I'm talking about 1/4 power steering. The only time I can get even a semi-tight turn out of the MT2 is when I'm off power and hitting the brakes lightly. My old T-Maxx could turn tighter turns than my electric buggy and I miss that in my MT2. Looking at the steering set up it doesn't appear that there is much that can be done with this unless there is a complete re-design of the steering.

Fuel consumption is very good with the MT2 regardless of whether it was with the NT-16 or the OS CV-Rx. I get a good 10 minutes of run time out of both motors. This is about 2 minutes longer than on my old RC10GT per tank.

Acceleration with the MT2 is brisk with the stock tires on it. It could however be better. Some clutch modification could make a big difference in acceleration with the bigger tires. A slightly stronger spring would delay clutch engagement and put the engine into it power band before it starts moving. With the IMEX Claw Dawg tires it accelerates extreemly quick. This lowers the gear ratio and has less rotational mass. With the IMEX tires on I also have a very hard time flipping the MT2 (not that I want to). I'm able to sent the MT2 into power slides on pavement, hit the throttle and pull out of them with all 4 wheels spinning like crazy.

Top speed is as advertised. With the stock tires I can see 45mph out of the MT2. With a .21 the MT2 is insanely fast in both acceleration and top speed (one of the threads in the normal MT forum has a video of the conversion and it flat moves out).

Maintanence has been fairly easy on the MT2. Changing a spur gear however is a pain in the butt. You have to take the rear end off of the truck, dissasemble the rear differential, then take the transmission apart which isn't all that easy, then put it all back together. This generally takes a good hour to do. Other than that the truck is pretty easy to work on with things well laid out.

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the MT2. It still needs some work, but out of the box has no more problems than any other MT out there but for $100.00 + less than other MT's.

I have a Cen MT2 also. I looking to make a few upgrades but dont really know where to start. I would like to replace the tryres and wheels for something bigger. Cen's website isnt really up to much WITH REGARDS TO UPGRADES. Where can i find a list of upgrades. I live in the UK so i would probably be looking at buying from the web.

[Brian23]

the tires on hte mt2 are already very big for 1/10 scale... u might have to alter the gear ratio because of have larger tires than it has now

[Sargyboy]

the tires on hte mt2 are already very big for 1/10 scale... u might have to alter the gear ratio because of have larger tires than it has now


Thanks for that mate

[Brian23]

npnp

[Tinybaum]

I just got the MT2 as a gift, 4 days well so far I got this truck with a bad glow plug. . .ok 8 bucks locallly. . . .

then after break in without me touching the truck it was running so rich it was dumping fuel through the exhaust. . .no biggy just make some adjustments. . .

Next I was having sporadic issues with the range of the car. Thought it was the batteries, NOPE the reciever on the truck was just barely touch.. . .again not problems, just plug it in.

Finally get it out to drive, and a STICK in the suspinsion broke the DIF cup. After reading all the posts I am going to check all my gears and make a list of things to order, cause i am sure there is something else in there. Brakes seem to be a little slow on mine, will look to do those upgrades here soon.

Was wondering about the Dif Cups. . . You guys just slip that piece of pipe of stuck dif cups?

I am impressed with the spead of my Truck, and the steering isn't too bad but I can see somes upgrades that are needed.

Overall so far I give the truck a B-

Tiny

[Sargyboy]

I just got the MT2 as a gift, 4 days well so far I got this truck with a bad glow plug. . .ok 8 bucks locallly. . . .

then after break in without me touching the truck it was running so rich it was dumping fuel through the exhaust. . .no biggy just make some adjustments. . .

Next I was having sporadic issues with the range of the car. Thought it was the batteries, NOPE the reciever on the truck was just barely touch.. . .again not problems, just plug it in.

Finally get it out to drive, and a STICK in the suspinsion broke the DIF cup. After reading all the posts I am going to check all my gears and make a list of things to order, cause i am sure there is something else in there. Brakes seem to be a little slow on mine, will look to do those upgrades here soon.

Was wondering about the Dif Cups. . . You guys just slip that piece of pipe of stuck dif cups?

I am impressed with the spead of my Truck, and the steering isn't too bad but I can see somes upgrades that are needed.

Overall so far I give the truck a B-

Tiny
Tiny mine has been ok well for far. The only problem i had with the particular model was i was a pinion gear. Not much to reaplace but hard to track down in the UK. I am looking to make a few upgrades also as the truck seems very delicate.

[Tinybaum]

Does anyone have the part number they they used for BocaBearrings? I saw in this forum from way back a few people talking about them to take out some of the play in the wheels.

Part number would be great, or any other bearring suggestions.

Thanks
Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

the extra bearings that fit in the hubs are 10x15x4mm (IDxODxDepth) hope that helps - nearly forgot - the bearings u want are the same as the ones on each side of the diff cases and also in the brake seat. :)

[Tinybaum]

Poor,

Thanks for that, but when i say i am a new-b i am new lol. Whats the difference in the hub bearrings and the dif ones?

Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

right - currently u have 2 bearing in each hub. these support the axle. on the inner side of the hub, there is a 15mm diameter, 5mm deep recess, which the outer part of ur cv or dogbone is found. this part of the cv/dogbone is 10mm in diameter. u with me so far? lol - ok, thats where the extra bearing goes - the 15mm x 10mm x 5mm thick bearing - as used in the diffs n brake seat - its just a different size to the existing wheel bearings, as it has to go over a section of the cv.

tell u what - heres a pic of mine - do u see the shiny bearing behind the cv joint? thats the extra one that helps stop the wheel wobble.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02114.JPG

hope that helps - i know how it is when somethings new to u mate, dont worry about it :)

and ok... its not that shiny.. bit rusty tbh! thats beach bashing for yer...

[Tinybaum]

Yeah that helps, where is the best place to get bearings from? Bocabearings i have seen mentioned but when i put in the size i get like 50 different ones to choose from. . .which is best?

Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

no idea which is best mate, i just grabbed some reasonably cheap ones off ebay - they came in a pack with various sizes in the bag. i think they were meant for a tmaxx really, but loads of the pack fitted different parts of the truck.

[Tinybaum]

Delete

[Tinybaum]

What are the advantages to adding them besides removing some slop in the wheels? Does it help steering?

Also my Dif cups will be in on Tues i think, what size pipe are you guys using to re-enforce them? Any certain thickness?

[Tinybaum]

Delete

[Poor Judgement]

they remove slop, extend the life of the hubs and existing bearings, and due to the lack of slop, should steer better too. better handling and more robust, cant argue with that.

as for the cups, i used some 10mm compression fittings that i found in the plumbing dept of a hardware store. i had to file a little off the underside of the shock towers to get em in tho, but they havent broken since i fitted them.

[Tinybaum]

Good deal as soon as they get here should be tomorrow ill go get some pipe. Do you have to cut the slots into them?

Poor you are the man, thanks for the help. . .i just want to make this thing durable, i dont plan on bashing it but i was just driving it when it broke this time :(

Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

i wouldnt cut slots in the reinforcing bit of tube - see how the shafts fit with them on, and maybe file down the pin slightly on the shaft if need be.

no worries, been there too, hated it! u should see what we are up to in the rc universe forum with 1/8 buggy shafts...!

[Tinybaum]

Well man you have helped me a ton already, hopefully one day when i learn this stuff i can pay it back to a newbie.

If this is a known issue with the dif cups why isn't CEN fixing it? Esp when it something as simple as this?

Do you have any recommends on roll cages?

Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

cen know what the problems are, thats how they ensure they can sell spares... nice huh? i have read some pretty bad things about cen, some from their employees, personally i try not to buy from them and use other parts to keep my cars going if poss, after all they are my cars regardless who made them, if u see what i mean.

did u see the little website i started (but need to finish)? its here (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.palmer97/CEN%20Test%20Pages/Mods%20to%20make%20a%20CEN%20semidecent.htm ) it may be of some help to u.

new era do a roll cage, try them, its supposed to be pretty good from what ive read. it is a simple cage, but apparently it stiffens the chassis pretty well too.

[Tinybaum]

Well I just got my Dif cups in, heading to Loews after work to see about the 10mm pipe to reenforce them. . .

Just ordered some bearings should be here the end of this week.

Ran across this has anyone used this?? Found on another site from about $40
https://ssl9.secure-svr.com/rc-solutions-com/store_display_product.asp?iProductID=17#

The newera one is about $40 http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=bewhtfdjntdcyfohaseieasodhlrcb vm&part_id=372

But doesnt seem to cover as much.

New Era is 2.5 oz

The first one is about 8 oz.

Any suggested servos to upgrade? Part numbers?

Failsafe I saw the one you have Poor, how does that install and how does it get power?

Tiny

[x13roger]

Started at the request of MaximumSTPro27

I can't seem to post any new threads ( possibly because i just joined)

I have a question, I have just purchased on of these cars for my nephew ( after a bad experience with 3 yes 3 smartec cars from e-bay)

I have run 3 tanks of fuel through and it's running fine but the steering has stopped working.

So I cleaned it down blew the dirt out with an airling and oiled the joints

I changed the batteries.

It still doesn't steer. That is unless you bring the suspension off full droop.

I disconnected the servo linkage and the servo seems ok but the linkage need a massive force to move it. I also find when on full lock i can't move it back with my hands. I'm sure it wasn't like this out of the box but I can't really be sure as it worked ok

[Tinybaum]

In the nitro truck forum not everyone can create a thread, only admins and text police can start one lol.

How are the gears on the servo looking? They do have plastic gears and can wear out. also make sure your connection on the reciever box in the battery case is plugged in tight, i had an issue with that straight out of the box. Maybe Poor Judgement can help you out when he is on, other then that im out of ideas.

Hope this helps, if not hopefully someone can respond to ya soon.

Tiny

[x13roger]

If I diconnect the linkage and hold my finger on the servo arm there is enough power to make the car move back. But I have also noticed the servo seems to stop sometimes?

Anyone else give me a clue/ had same problem?

rgds

RogerIn the nitro truck forum not everyone can create a thread, only admins and text police can start one lol.

How are the gears on the servo looking? They do have plastic gears and can wear out. also make sure your connection on the reciever box in the battery case is plugged in tight, i had an issue with that straight out of the box. Maybe Poor Judgement can help you out when he is on, other then that im out of ideas.

Hope this helps, if not hopefully someone can respond to ya soon.

Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

failsafes simply plug in between the throttle servo and the reciever, power is from the rx batts, just be sure to adjust it as per the instructions before running the truck.

cens stock radio is pretty poor as are the servos, especially the steering servo. but try this before buying anything - u say the probs are at full lock and with the suspension as high as it will go? if thats the case, try backing out the pivot balls that the hubs mount and pivot on, just a little bit tho, its probably just the cv axels jamming up a bit. a bit of fuel line - about 2mm long, inside the diff cup, behind the dogbone end of the cv shafts might help too. if thats no good, swap ur servos around and try it - if it turns out to be the servo, then buy a higher performance one to cure all steering woes. i am using a futaba s3010 on mine, works a treat - oh also use a 6v rechargable batt pack if ur not already, that will help too.

[x13roger]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I took the car back to the shop today ( as it's only 2 days old)

We think a0 the servo is duff

Also I have found that if you straighten the wishbones out this look better.

In the end weve swapped the servo and moved the linkage that goes on the wheel onto the top instead of underneath problem cured!!

The geometry is all wrong on the truck , there is alot of friction caused by the ball /socket joints( which were all solid!!) I've swapped them for some brass ones from an other car.

This car won't steer properly out of the box.

But anyhow thanks tar all sorted!!

Rgds

Roger failsafes simply plug in between the throttle servo and the reciever, power is from the rx batts, just be sure to adjust it as per the instructions before running the truck.

cens stock radio is pretty poor as are the servos, especially the steering servo. but try this before buying anything - u say the probs are at full lock and with the suspension as high as it will go? if thats the case, try backing out the pivot balls that the hubs mount and pivot on, just a little bit tho, its probably just the cv axels jamming up a bit. a bit of fuel line - about 2mm long, inside the diff cup, behind the dogbone end of the cv shafts might help too. if thats no good, swap ur servos around and try it - if it turns out to be the servo, then buy a higher performance one to cure all steering woes. i am using a futaba s3010 on mine, works a treat - oh also use a 6v rechargable batt pack if ur not already, that will help too.

[Tinybaum]

Poor Check ya PM's


Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

glad ur sorted - its a bit odd that the steering was so stiff, mine was very sloppy when new... maybe slipped by quality control staff on a friday afternoon...

[Tinybaum]

When you order a alum brake block, do you need to get the alum brake caps too, or does it come with it? What are they for?

Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

the stock plastic brake pistons can and will melt with serious use - i banana'd a chassis when mine went... nasty stuff! the seat comes bare, with no metal piston/plug - i got those and the metal brake seperately. i think u get 2 metal pistons to a pack, in case u lose one i guess.

[x13roger]

Took our truck to a bmx track at the weekend. broke 2 drive shafts and the front prop is now bent!! oppps.

I was a bit dissapionted as we didn't jump more than 2 feet high ( still learning) but there you go. . . .

Have converted over to the buggy ( now 2 wheel drive) I have notice though the car handles 10 times better with the smaller wheels and don't take as long to get into 2nd gear but in 2 wheel drive it's dohnut city!!!:

Wait for some new driveshafts.

rgds

Roger

[Tinybaum]

Poor,

There are so many sites thrown around for this part of that part, where do you recommend buying the brake block/piston/caps? I trust your opinion.

I got my extra bearings in the truck, why do the balljoints still have slop in them??

Thanks
Tiny

[Poor Judgement]

i get all of my bits off ebay, retail prices are too high, simple as that.

as for the ball joints - u mean the track rod ends? - try new ones! lol, it could just be wear, or poorly made parts. try a small piece of plastic bag in between the ball and knuckle, that sometimes helps, but is a bit of a bodge really... new ones should sort it tho, or swap them about, see if that helps.

[Tinybaum]

They have had that slop in them since I got the truck, ill play around and see what i can do

Tiny

[cheezynibbler]

what is the best engine upgarde to get for the mt2

[Poor Judgement]

Very popular and very effective is the OS.18CVR-X with a rotary carb and will drop straight in. Any more power than this is pretty uncontrollable, and will break transmission parts - trust me! Its around $100... bloody bargain!

Its this one (http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2105.html) u want, with the shorter threaded crank, pull start and rotary carb - just swap the complete cen clutch and flywheel over. OS#8 glo-plugs and 25% nitro is... erm... perfect! I run mine with an OS T-1030 tuned pipe - quite a gain over the stock cen pipe, but cens will work ok too, if u cant stretch ur budget to a tuned pipe.

[cheezynibbler]

thaks for that

all of the cars i have had so far have all been roto start. is the pullstart any problem or takes ages to start?

what about this http://www.modelsinmotion.com/product.asp?productid=8785&catCode=354&tamiya=258

[Poor Judgement]

no idea about that engine - i just know the OS 18 cvr-x is plently powerful to say the least, very reliable, very torquey, easy to tune etc etc - highly recommended.

pullstarts are fine so long as u have a decent tune, good plug - as u would anyway. just dont pull it out too far, it only takes a flick of the wrist when tuned right. if u pull it too far u will break the spring. i had no probs with mine anyway.

[chrisjeep7]

looking for a replacement part i dont know what i need to get this part. its part GX12 on the front diff, i broke it rather easy. http://www.cenracing.com/cars/ff/pic/ff4wd_explode.jpg here is the pic can someone give me a hand.

thanks

[Poor Judgement]

try putting "Cen GX12" into google and find a stockist near u.

its also worth running a search for the "Diff Cup Mod" for this item as they break too easily. it basically consists of using a short length of thin metal tube or similar with an internal diameter of 10mm - i used some 10mm metric compression fittings which are easy to find in the uk, but harder in the US, try a hardware store, mate.

if u cant find any info on here regarding the mod, try rcuniverse.com and search the cen forum there.

[yellowscooter]

Hello Friends. Very simple question, and I'm sure you've answered it before. But how the heck do you get the 47t spur gear off the rear drive shaft? I have removed all parts, but cannot for the life of me remove the little spring bit that allows it to jump to 2nd gear.

I've removed the grub screw, but the thing seems stuck on. I've been forceful but i don't want to break the diff. The only thing i can think is to remove all the diff etc and come in from the back. But that seems WAY to involved for such a simple job. Spur gears go all the time, so it should be easy to replace!

Any help would be appreciated...

[ChopperPilot]

Hello Friends. Very simple question, and I'm sure you've answered it before. But how the heck do you get the 47t spur gear off the rear drive shaft? I have removed all parts, but cannot for the life of me remove the little spring bit that allows it to jump to 2nd gear.

I've removed the grub screw, but the thing seems stuck on. I've been forceful but i don't want to break the diff. The only thing i can think is to remove all the diff etc and come in from the back. But that seems WAY to involved for such a simple job. Spur gears go all the time, so it should be easy to replace!

Any help would be appreciated...

Just done this last weekend. The clutch is a bit of a 'compression' fit even with the centre grub screw removed. I used a small flat head screwdriver to lever it up gently on both sides. A bit of WD40 might also come in handy...
I'm assuming you've removed the pin(key) in front of the gear first .. ;)

[Poor Judgement]

U will have to go in from the back, as the spur gears come off the back of the shaft - remove and split the rear diff casing and remove the small bevelled gear off the shaft that the spurs are on, and slide the spurs off the back.
ometimes the 2 speed clutch will stick tho - if so, once the shaft is out of the truck and spurs are removed, back off the clutch retaining grub screw and place the 2 speed clutch over a socket and tap the shaft thru it.

Yea, its a pain, but its not too bad if u just get on and do it - 15 mins at the most.

[ChopperPilot]

U will have to go in from the back, as the spur gears come off the back of the shaft - remove and split the rear diff casing and remove the small bevelled gear off the shaft that the spurs are on, and slide the spurs off the back.

I bow to your experience PJ, but when I did mine, I just removed the whole back axle assembly in one lump - i.e. remove 8 screws underneath holding the brake assembly (2 screws), the transmission(2 screws) and the rear bumper and axle on the base plate (4 screws), and everything from the diff cup for the centre drive shaft backwards comes off in one go!

Then once you have the whole rear drive train of the car in your hand, remove the centre drive shaft diff cup, then the brake pad assembly, then the clutch, and then slide the first of the gears off, and then remove the circlip to get the 47t gear off! :cool:

Like I said, I'm a newbie at this, but it worked for me.... and I've got some pictures if they are of any help here (http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1606294) ... and it only took 5 minutes.... :D

Martin

[Poor Judgement]

Good stuff - u must have a different type of top shaft to the ones ive used - mine have a solid steel hub for the brake to run on - the hub is part of the shaft, so cant be removed to allow the spur gears to come off the front.

U do have a 2 speed fitted dont u?

EDIT - maybe i should have looked at the pics before posting... doh - i see what u mean now, cant say ive seen that arrangement before, thanks for pointing it out mate.

[ChopperPilot]

yep its a two speed - that shifted once and never again :(

I'm currently waiting (10 days now) for a new rear drive shaft to turn up at the LHS before I can have another go at tweaking the clutch. The engine revs seems to be high enough to shift (screaming its heart out), and the adjustment screw is hanging on by half a thread, so the clutch arm is as loose as it can be... hopefully now I've oiled it a bit it'll work!

You're website is very helpful by the way. You've obviously tried a lot of things! You're right about that sand getting everywhere! - I may try your balloon-condom idea for me shocks :D

all the best

Martin

[Poor Judgement]

if u have backed the screw right out of the 2nd gear clutch then chances are its permanantly running in 2nd gear - unless the inner part of the 2nd gear spur, that the clutch hits, is worn away.

[ChopperPilot]

(double posted by mistake)

[ChopperPilot]

if u have backed the screw right out of the 2nd gear clutch then chances are its permanantly running in 2nd gear - unless the inner part of the 2nd gear spur, that the clutch hits, is worn away.

D'Oh! Hadn't thought of that! :o

I'll have a go adjusting it when I get me car running again (managed to find the new drive shaft I'm short of on ebay - the wonders of t'internet eh?).
cheers for the tip
Martin

[Poor Judgement]

i think its supposed to be around about 3.5 complete turns out from fully screwed in, dont over tighten it when screwing it all the way in tho, it will wreck the spring.

i normally start at 4 turns after a rebuild and only start adjusting once the engine is properly warm (after a full tank is enough for my reckoning). thers a few variables regarding the shift point - engine tune being a major factor, but if its pretty close to spot on, then it should shift at some point. weather can affect the tune and therefore the shift point, and obviously check the arm is nice and free in the 2 speed clutch - dont use oil or grease, it attracts dust/debris into sticking in the 2 speed and damaging it or preventing it working. i use wd40 and let it dry.

good luck

[ChopperPilot]

hi PJ, I had a play over the weekend, but didn't manage test the new clutch settings you suggested as a lost a rear dogbone. Again. And another diff cup. Again. (I will get some 10mm rod to do the diff-cup mod I've read about!).
however, I noticed on one of the other forums, a while ago, you were in discussion about using swing shafts in the rear instead of dogbones? There was a lot of talk around the concept, but I was having difficulty pulling out how complicated the mod might be? I suppose what I'm really asking is, what was the end result of trying to find a way of not losing rear dogbones!! Is swingshafts the way to go - how difficult a mod is it?

p.s. do you know a good supplier of CEN parts in the UK, my LHS is struggling to keep up with my requirements!! ;-)

cheers

Martin

[Poor Judgement]

the swing shafts from the front will fit on the rear, just fit straight on there - i get all my bits off ebay - cheaper and easier than finding a supplier.

i think the conversation u are refering to where in regard to fitting tmaxx and/or swift buggy shafts. the conclusions of which ended up on the rcuniverse cen forum, have a search on there if ur having snapping shaft troubles.

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Hi all im back, moved to southampton then had to go away for a while.

I carried out the t maxx shaft mod and it looks sweet il take some photos and post them soon




cheers

[2THPIC]

i'm looking at buying a CEN MT2, but i don't know if its a good one to buy. shuld i save up some more $$ and get a savage? what are the pros ans cons on the cen mt2?

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

Hi boys and girls got some pics of my truck...

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

heres another

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

and another

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

another

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

and again

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

last one

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

In case you are wondering i doubled up the shocks on the rear, coz when i accelerated it dipped in back end down and raised the front it works a treat now

[Poor Judgement]

very nice work - ur the only other person i know of to do it this way - how did it go? does it run good too?

had to spam some pics of mine too...

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02029small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02046small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02028small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02019small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02041small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01876small.JPG

[Poor Judgement]

heres what i did with the bits i had left over... look closely... :cool:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02118small.JPG

[Brian23]

danny clean your air filter it could get bad for your engine

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

very nice work - ur the only other person i know of to do it this way - how did it go? does it run good too?

had to spam some pics of mine too...

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02029small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02046small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02028small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02019small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC02041small.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01876small.JPG


Yeah she runs ok, the engine is strugling on acceleration though need to up it but good apart from that

[Poor Judgement]

os.18cvr-x? or do u fancy going for a bigblock (bit of a handfull!)?

[DANNYDIRTBOX]

yeah i have cleaned it since the pics were taken,

[smithn50]

Where can I find a body that will fit the MT2? All i can find is the factory replacement.PLEASE HELP

[cenracer1]

there are several that fit... I personally use the proline crowdpeazer for the rc10gt size... its a different look than the stock, but thats what I wanted... here is something close to give you an idea... could't find the exact one but they all look the same.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJDS7&P=7
if you want a truck body.. try something that fits the traxxas stampede size.. the t-maxx on is a little large.. wheels don't line up well, but endless choices in styles... I have used all of the above, but I like the crowdpleazer look.

[Looolkk]

http://www.digitalforums.info/img/images/Digital/56.png

Anyone know where i can find this part?

[cenracer1]

try these guys.. have used them many times inthe past.. great service and super fast shipping...
http://www.customrccars.com/product_temp_trial.asp?id=1532&cat=22&custom=0

[Looolkk]

try these guys.. have used them many times inthe past.. great service and super fast shipping...
http://www.customrccars.com/product_temp_trial.asp?id=1532&cat=22&custom=0
Thanks

[Looolkk]

try these guys.. have used them many times inthe past.. great service and super fast shipping...
http://www.customrccars.com/product_temp_trial.asp?id=1532&cat=22&custom=0
Do you know any UK sellers?

[Looolkk]

http://www.toyhaus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Will that fit?

[cenracer1]

the link to toyhaus doesn't work... use this part # g84307-1.... t47 spur gear.... just type in cens part number on their site..

[Looolkk]

the link to toyhaus doesn't work... use this part # g84307-1.... t47 spur gear.... just type in cens part number on their site..
i forgot to say I've ordered the part now off another site, thanks anyway :)

[BaronVonGareth]

I've found that Tower Hobbies still stocks spurs for them, but you must look under the Magnum NX, and there's also hardened steel ones available for it. MT Spec 3.0 is also a close enough match to get useable parts. Both seem to be identical as far as the carriers, axles, tires, wheels, etc etc and are obvious direct descendants.

Any of ya'll have an idea as to why the crankshaft on the stock NT-16 would snap off like a twig right between the drive washer and flywheel? That's where mine broke. Engine still bloody runs, even with no flywheel, but it can't move the truck.

Would converting it to RWD by yanking the center shaft do it or did the pilot shaft wiggle loose?