CEN MT2 Truck forum [Archive] - Radio Control Zone

End Overend

08-08-2003, 02:08 PM

Cool, an MT2 forum :D

I've owned my MT2 for a little over a month now and I'll give my review here.

Likes:

-The MT2 is very fast out of the box
-The MT2 handles very well around corners and has much less rollover than my 2.5 T-Maxx did (I sold it a while back).
-The simple lay out of the MT2 is nice and much less complicated than other MT's out there
-The big receiver/battery box is very much appreciated
-Flexible body posts do not break nearly as often as those on a T-Maxx.
-Aluminum shock towers are a nice addition
-Easy .21 conversion
-Addition of a 125cc tank is nothing more than a little dremel work and the purchase of the tank (make sure there is room before doing so though)

Dislikes:

-Radio had a range of about 20-30 feet out of the box, sent in for warranty repair but haven't received it back yet
-Engine appeared to have a slight bend in the crankshaft that lead to two stripped spur gears, sent in for warranty repair haven't received it back yet
-No foam for the tires creates a bouncy ride off of jumps and while climbing obsticals at speed
-Some chassis flex in the middle, the roll cage from New Era Models should cure this problem
-Excessive play at the wheels, 10x15mm bearings on the inside of the hub carriers is supposed to cure this
-No local LHS support, everything must be mail ordered (at least for me)

Changes I've made to the MT2 so far:

-Added a JR XR2i transmitter, receiver and servo's to the MT2 since the orignial radio didn't work for me.
-Changed engines to an OS CV-Rx .15 just as powerful as the NT-16 but rev's a bit higher.
-Bought a 2nd set of wheels/tires: IMEX Claw Dawg tires and Traxxas 2.2 hex rims.
-Changed to ball ends on the front tie rods

Future modifications:

-New Era Models roll cage (sometime soon)
-New wheels (chrome) with Proline Masher 2000 tires
-10x15mm bearings at each axle
-125cc tank for long run times with the OS CV-Rx .15 ( should be in the 20 minutes + range)

Overall observations:

The MT2 has proven to be a pretty durable truck. I have done many flips and tumbles with the truck and other than stripped spur gears the only part I've broken was the front lower a-arm and that was my fault for running it into an immovable object.

The truck has excellent handeling on the ground. It corners with much more speed than a T-Maxx and doesn't roll over nearly as much. Jumping is a bit more tricky with the MT2. Since it has a shorter wheel base and large tires hitting the throttle or the brake causes much greater movement in the air than it did on my old T-Maxx. This can cause nose up or nose down landings. Smaller tires help with this a lot, but then you loose some of your MT look and ability.

I would like a bit more on power steering out of the MT2. I'm not talking about full power steering as no RC car has much steering while at full power. I'm talking about 1/4 power steering. The only time I can get even a semi-tight turn out of the MT2 is when I'm off power and hitting the brakes lightly. My old T-Maxx could turn tighter turns than my electric buggy and I miss that in my MT2. Looking at the steering set up it doesn't appear that there is much that can be done with this unless there is a complete re-design of the steering.

Fuel consumption is very good with the MT2 regardless of whether it was with the NT-16 or the OS CV-Rx. I get a good 10 minutes of run time out of both motors. This is about 2 minutes longer than on my old RC10GT per tank.

Acceleration with the MT2 is brisk with the stock tires on it. It could however be better. Some clutch modification could make a big difference in acceleration with the bigger tires. A slightly stronger spring would delay clutch engagement and put the engine into it power band before it starts moving. With the IMEX Claw Dawg tires it accelerates extreemly quick. This lowers the gear ratio and has less rotational mass. With the IMEX tires on I also have a very hard time flipping the MT2 (not that I want to). I'm able to sent the MT2 into power slides on pavement, hit the throttle and pull out of them with all 4 wheels spinning like crazy.

Top speed is as advertised. With the stock tires I can see 45mph out of the MT2. With a .21 the MT2 is insanely fast in both acceleration and top speed (one of the threads in the normal MT forum has a video of the conversion and it flat moves out).

Maintanence has been fairly easy on the MT2. Changing a spur gear however is a pain in the butt. You have to take the rear end off of the truck, dissasemble the rear differential, then take the transmission apart which isn't all that easy, then put it all back together. This generally takes a good hour to do. Other than that the truck is pretty easy to work on with things well laid out.

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the MT2. It still needs some work, but out of the box has no more problems than any other MT out there but for $100.00 + less than other MT's.

End Overend

08-18-2003, 03:34 PM

Since I can't update my post, I'm posting a follow up to my original review.

Since writing the review I have completed the 10mm x 15mm hub carrier modification, picked up the New Era Models roll cage and completed a small modification to the brakes.

The 10mm x 15mm hub carrier bearing modification, really works well, and looks as if it was designed to have the bearings placed there. The bearings fit perfectly into the hub carriers and require just a little pressure to seat them into the space properly. Once installed they reduced the slop in the wheels by at least half. Definately helps keep the truck going in a straight line at speed and provides a lot of support for the main bearings. This should help the bearings last a long time. Cost: around $35.00 - $40.00

The New Era Models roll cage is probably the highest recommended modification I can suggest for the truck. It provides protection for the engine and provides a large amount of fore/aft stiffening to the chassis. It also helps with braking consistancy and power and will help keep you from striping spur gears due to the fore/aft flex. The roll cage is powder coated and is a pretty good match for the stock purple coloring that comes with the truck. The roll cage is pretty light also at 2.5 ounces. Cost: $40.00

Here is a small brake modification that will also help a bit with jumping. Take the rear end off of the truck so you have access to the brake screws (that hold on the calipers). Take the screws off and place a small piece of fuel tubing over the screw, but between the two calipers. When you put it back together make sure the calipers are close enough to the brake that it takes very little movement to apply the brakes, but just enough that the brake doesn't touch the calipers. Then re-assemble the rear end. If you leave too much room you will have too much play and will loose some braking power.

Basically what this does is makes sure that the brake calipers return to their outermost position when the brake isn't applied and that the brake disc doesn't drag on them. This will make your brakes last longer and be more consistant. It will also make sure you don't have any drag brake in the air causing the front to nose down when you don't want it to.

It's a pretty simple, easy to do and cheap modification to the stock truck.

With these modifications I would put this truck up with pretty much any MT out there on a track. Bashing it would be a bit behind the others due to lower ground clearance but for the most part it can hold it's own there also.

If you have any other questions please feel free to e-mail or PM me. If I do any other mods I'll post the results here.

GaMT2

08-20-2003, 05:14 PM

Hi,new to the group.I've had my MT2 for about 3 months.So far I have had to replace the the front and rear differential hubs.One broke completely.Just wondered where everyone is getting the 10mm x 15 mm bearings from.I have looked on thewebsites that carry parts for the MT2.Can't seem to find them anywhere.Thank you in advance for the help.

So far I have bought the brake block,extra wheels for smaller tires,cooling head,aluminum pipe,and a different body.

Are pics allowed in this group?

Thanks for the help.

alphax43

08-20-2003, 08:13 PM

Yes pics are allowed! Please post em

K Man

End Overend

08-21-2003, 01:42 AM

GaMT2,

I got mine at my LHS. They carry a variety of sizes.

If your LHS doesn't carry them, do a search in your yellow pages for bearing companies. Many large cities have at least one bearing company some where. You can also try your hardware stores.

GaMT2

08-25-2003, 09:08 PM

Here are a few.one before and one after the gravel road.Ended up stipping the rear dogbones.

GaMT2

08-25-2003, 09:12 PM

here is the one after the dirt road!Still have not been able to find the bearings.Does anyone a hobby shop that will ship the bearings?

CEN Racing

08-26-2003, 01:52 PM

GaMT2
You got a nice truck there. :D

Ok, back to subject, give us a call if you have no luck finding it. We will find a LHS for you or a mail order place.
714-792-1923

Jamedup

08-29-2003, 03:15 PM

End Overend,
Here's a link to some steering hub mods I did. It will turn a little better now but I'll play with it further, like the steering bellcranks.
I threw in a GOOD steering servo and 80 weight oil in the back/ 50 in the front and the truck handles pretty darn good. It wasn't bad before but it's real nice now. ;)

Anyone have any questions or comments about this, feel free to email me or post them.
http://ccsnetworking.com/catchinhell/CEN-steering-mod.htm

The start of the CEN section of my site starts here.
http://ccsnetworking.com/catchinhell/CEN%20trucks.htm

btw... sorry it took so long, my LAN got hit by lightning and took out some expensive hardware. :(

End Overend

08-29-2003, 05:22 PM

Jamedup,

Thanks for the steering mods, I never really looked that hard at what was limiting some of the steering. Looks like a little dremel work will help with the steering radius.

Here is something I did to my steering linkage to help a bit with bump steer.

I turned the steering linkage arm around and removed the ball joint/cup from the chassis steering linkage (bell cranks?). I used the outside ball joint/cup combo that is lower overall and screwed it into the chassis steering linkage. Then I took a regular ball joint screw from an associated car and installed that on the hub carrier linkage and put a regular sized ball cup on the outer linkage arm.

This allows the steering linkage to travel a bit farther down and doesn't go as high on the top end. It doesn't eliminate bump steer but it minimizes it.

Sounds like your suspension set up is pretty close to what I ended up with. I'm running 55 wt oil up front with 90 wt oil in the rear, stock dampers. I don't have any ride height adjusters up front and one big adjuster in the back. I'm also running the lower mounting holes on the outside hole on all four corners both top and bottom on the shocks.

Looks like your racing ST has been gutted :D , but I'm sure it shaved some good weight off of it.

kecatt

09-09-2003, 11:22 PM

I just got a new MT2. I was curious if anyone knows of a larger fuel tank that I could install with minimum mods. I do have a dremel tool but am relucant to hack it up. If I have to though, I guess I could.
I am new to nitro, and so far love the MT2. I can't make a comparison to any other trucks, but I have had great luck with it. Break in was a snap and I am now dialing in the mix. It will soon have a new body and some other odds and ends. I really don't have a single complaint (unless you count the small fuel tank), and applaud CEN for a great product.
I bought it new for $260 and feel it is a great buy.

CEN Racing

09-10-2003, 12:16 PM

YOu have two choices.

1. cut the top plate and fit a larger fuel tank there.
2. Remove the radio box and fit a larger tank there.

Or be lazy and just zip tie a large fuel tank on top of top plate. We did it at race when we dont have time to do modifications and it works, just does not look good.

kecatt

09-10-2003, 08:52 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. I will be checking out the LHS for a suitable tank.
Another question: I am not sure if the 2 speed is shifting consistantly. As I was leaning out the HSN and gaining more power, I could hear the shift very plainly. After the spit test (water cooked off after 3-4 seconds) and richening the mix back up a bit (better too rich than lean, you know), I no longer heard the shift. I'm not comfortable with leaning it out too much more for fear of overheat. Is there anything wrong with adjusting the shift down as per the instructions? I'm not sure where to go with it, but would like a consistant second gear shift.
When that sucker hit second gear, it was a yellow streak.....and I liked it!!!!
Thanks. Kyle

End Overend

09-10-2003, 10:31 PM

kecatt,

You can adjust the shift point adjustment as per the instructions. I generally set mine between 5 and 5.5 turns out from full in. This allows me to run it a little rich but still shift into 2nd gear.

kecatt

09-11-2003, 12:55 AM

Thanks for the info, EO.
Now bigger problems. My buddy hit a curb with it and the driveshaft from the trans to the front diff is bent. Nothing else was even bothered, but it looks like I'm going to order a new shaft. Still trying to figure out how it happened.....

End Overend

09-11-2003, 01:10 AM

It sounds as if when your buddy hit the curb the chassis flexed enough to push the ends together that it bent the shaft. The New Era Models roll bar will help a lot with this.

kecatt

09-14-2003, 03:56 PM

Well, I've owned it a week and the transmission is toast. The 2nd gear gearset is ok, but 1st is shot. The spur gear has about 60% of its teeth left, and the drive gear is looking a bit beat up. It looks as though something went through it.
Has anyone ordered parts for these? I think I need the following:
CEN 47T Spur Gear for 2-speed Transmission (red) - CEN G84307-01
and
CEN 11T Threaded Pinion M10, use with FFS001 - CEN FFS034
to get it going. Can anyone confirm this so I don't order the wrong thing? Thanks a million. Kyle

kecatt

09-14-2003, 07:02 PM

Ok, I took it apart. I think I will go with the new clutch bell:
CEN 11T/14T 2-Speed Clutch Bell (threaded) (MT) - CEN G84309-04
and also get:
CEN Spur Gear T44 - CEN G84307-02
Are these PNs correct?

johnomaier

09-14-2003, 07:18 PM

I want to buy new spur gears because I stripped the old ones. I dont know where to find them and which ones to order. Can anyone help me?

kecatt

09-14-2003, 07:34 PM

I'm looking here:

http://www.rcmodels.com/car---truck-accessories-replacement-parts-by-manufacturer-cen.html

End Overend

09-14-2003, 08:11 PM

kecatt,

Those should be the right part numbers. I'd order two of each if I were you just to be safe, you are going to end up replacing the spur gears at some point in time any way.

As for the clutch bell, you shouldn't need to replace the clutch bell it's self, just the gears. It should be cheaper if you just purchase those. Are you sure you need a new clutch bell/gears? I've stripped both of my spur gears several times and my clutch bell is in great shape still.

kecatt

09-14-2003, 08:53 PM

I have to replace the spur gear for first as it has only 60% of the teeth left. The first gear pinion on the clutch bell has nasty looking teeth, teeth I don't feel comfortable matching up to a brand new plastic spur gear.
How do you remove the pinion gear from the clutch bell? Mine appears to be threaded on, but I'm having no luck removing it. If I get too rough with it I could warp or crush the bell and be back to replacing the bell and pinions anyway.
I shot an e-mail to CEN to clarify part numbers concerning whether or not the clutch bell comes with pinions attached or if they only come separate. I'm hoping to get a complete clutch bell and both spur gears and start over fresh.
The bad thing about it is my LHS (HobbytownUSA) is listed as a dealer on the CEN webpage but really don't have anything in stock so everything has to be ordered on line.......
Thanks for the info. Kyle

Coconut

09-14-2003, 11:27 PM

Delete

Coconut

09-14-2003, 11:32 PM

Originally posted by GaMT2
Hi,new to the group.I've had my MT2 for about 3 months.So far I have had to replace the the front and rear differential hubs.One broke completely.Just wondered where everyone is getting the 10mm x 15 mm bearings from.I have looked on thewebsites that carry parts for the MT2.Can't seem to find them anywhere.Thank you in advance for the help.

So far I have bought the brake block,extra wheels for smaller tires,cooling head,aluminum pipe,and a different body.

Are pics allowed in this group?

Thanks for the help.

Check www.bocabearings.com. I like their rubber sealed bearings for most applications.

kecatt

09-14-2003, 11:40 PM

Well, it seems now my transmitter may be haywire. Earlier today I though I had a front end out of alignment. I tried everything I could think of to get it to travel straight to no avail. Even with trim adjusted all the way it still would not behave. Tonight I checked everything over and it seems my steering servo doesn't center when plugged into the steering channel. It does however center when I plug it into the throttle channel. Both trims were centered, BTW.
I am getting frustrated with this truck so far. I bought it based on its reputation of durability and performance, But the durability is now a question in my mind.

End Overend

09-15-2003, 03:00 PM

kecatt,

Sounds like you may have had more damage than you thought when your MT2 went into the curb. Any crash that is bad enough to bend the center drive shaft probably is bad enough to do some other collateral damage.

My guess with steering problem is that you may have stripped the gears in your servo. The stock servo is a plastic gear servo and while it will work well, it's prone to damage in a big crash. I replaced mine fairly quickly with a metal gear servo, even though the stock servo was in perfect working condition.

At the least the steering arm jumped a few teeth over which is why your steering trim is of now. I would suggest pulling the steering servo out and giving it a look over. Pull off the steering arm and see if you stripped the main top gear. Check to see if it has smooth travel from one side to another with no binding, grinding, etc. If the servo is still in good order it would be just a matter of putting the steering arm back on the servo with the trims centered and the steering centerd.

If the servo is blown I would suggest replacing it with a metal gear servo. A Cirrus MG80BB is a great steering servo that's really cheap. I had one in my old T-Maxx. It was a little slow but had 120 oz/in torque at 4.8 volts and only cost $25.00. In all reality I'd make the switch regardless of whether your stock servo is in good shape or not, plastic gear servos will strip out, it's just a matter of time.

On a side note, when every you have a big crash where something brakes, end your run then and give the truck a complete once over. Sometimes it looks like it's in perfect working condition when there is actually something wrong that you miss. Then you go out to drive once you get the first noticible broken part fixed and it breaks down or takes off on you and does more damage.

Also don't blame the MT2 for the servo damage/bent drive shaft (assuming there is some). Any truck would suffer damage when hitting a curb at high speed, for that matter full sized cars suffer plenty of damage when hitting curbs at just about any speed (trust me I know). There will always be repair costs with any MT, ST, Buggy, etc. The harder you are on them the more they will brake.

kecatt

09-15-2003, 09:27 PM

Yes, I understand this stuff happens, and it all goes back to the bad receiver which caused three runaways where all of the damaged happened. I'm just frustrated with trying to get the right part numbers to urder since no one sells parts locally.
I will check the steering arm, thanks for the heads up. The thing I don't understand is how the steering servo centers and works normal on one channel but does not on the other, which is the steering channel. Any ideas?
I really do love the truck and hope not to beat it up so much so I can enjoy it more....

End Overend

09-15-2003, 09:45 PM

You can get all of the parts numbers out of your owners manual. They pretty much list everything in there.

Then if you go to www.rcmodels.com all you need to do is put the part number in their search engine and it will take you right to the part that you need.

The only parts I've needed to replace (non accident related) are the spur gears and the drive cups (out drives) that the axle goes into.

There is also another site, can't remember the name though, where it gives you an exploded view of the truck and all you have to do is click on the part you need.

As for the transmitter, there were some bad batches that went out. If you are having short range issues you can send it in for warranty replacement/repair. I sent mine since it had about a 20 foot range when I took it out of the box. I haven't tried it since I got it back though since I put in a JR XR2i radio while it was sent in for repair.

kecatt

09-15-2003, 11:56 PM

Yes, I got all of the part numbers out of the owners manual, and have been doing the search thing on rcmodels(this is actually where I ordered it). I would much rather confirm part numbers before ordering. The old measure twice, cut once thing.
My neighbor down the street got a t-maxx yesterday, it's broken today. I guess I should count my blessings. My CEN is pretty tough after all, especially what it has gone through in the last week.
On another note, anyone have a good simple way to align the suspension? I have a couple of ideas, using measurements, etc., but am always open to suggestion.
BTW, I would like to thank everyone for all the great help.

alphax43

09-16-2003, 11:59 PM

Hey CEN Racing;

I'm posting this here because I know you'll see it then. I'm sure your aware of this and have people working on it; but I just wanted to ask you when the CEN website will be updated; as it is in need of a major overhaul. Just wanted to make sure you knew this is how I felt, and I am not saying the site sucks, just that it needs to be updated for CEN to have a good position in the market. I'm sure with the recent wins by the MT2 the trucks are just flying off the shelf; and with the Genesis coming up I think a new site would be a great way to launch it. Just my 2c.

K Man

CEN Racing

09-17-2003, 12:47 PM

Dont worry. We are working on it. Our hosting server sucks so it take quit a bit of time. Sorry

alphax43

09-17-2003, 03:05 PM

it's cool; I figured there was something else up. Keep up the great work..

K Man (waiting for Genesis pics :) )

I_Like_F150s

09-19-2003, 06:25 AM

Who has the best price on the MT2?

CEN Racing

09-19-2003, 01:12 PM

Website had been updated with Genesis information. More will be added very soon.

alphax43

09-19-2003, 05:51 PM

Electric:
Newly Engineered
CEN Eclipse XR radio system

Sorry to say it; but the current radio really looks sucky. It just looks cheap and "toy like" to me. Pics of the new one soon? :D

K Man

I_Like_F150s

09-24-2003, 05:15 PM

Has anyone out there actually bought an MT2? Where did you get it and how much did you pay?

Nitromethane

09-26-2003, 02:58 PM

CENRacing,
Wondering where in the heck you guys came up with a wheelbase of 13.39" for the MT2, as shown on your website??

Not even close!! How dissapointing.:(

johnomaier

09-29-2003, 01:05 AM

i dont know where to find the smaller of the two spur gears
i have a two speed trans
all i can find is the 47 tooth
can anyone help me

Jamedup

09-29-2003, 03:08 PM

44T spur gear
G84307-02 http://search.rcmodels.com/?rc=1&text=G84307-02&x=14&y=11

Nitroaddict

10-11-2003, 04:09 AM

I have thought about buying one of these trucks, they look pretty cool..I was wondering if anyone has installed a larger fuel tank, if so what tank, and what kind of mod was required.

I was also wondering if this truck has had any major problems with parts breaking, what parts are recommended for upgrade for durability

Thanks,

Nitroaddict

I_Like_F150s

10-11-2003, 08:11 AM

"Thanks" for all the help everyone. I decided to get a Savage.

Frapechino

10-23-2003, 12:17 PM

u can get a mt2 here dirt cheap...

CEN MT2 (http://www.ehobbies.com/sd-cen-9236.html)

auto2

10-28-2003, 09:34 PM

HI all Just wanted to introduce myself.
I'm an old fart automechanic that fell in love with nitro a long time ago.
My MT2 is about 1 gallon old.
I have exactlly the same good points and complaints as everyone else.
I don't like slop in the joints and steering.
the plastic gears are very consumable;
Dif cups need to be kept in stock;
I put in 40 weight shock oil( all I had);
I haave the new era roll bar
I want to try smaller tires to slow the truck down and improve acceleration
I use a futaba 3PK radio
and most important I put in a 5 cell battery pack instead of "AA" THat made a huge difference with the steering servo.
I always have trouble starting it up. Floods real easy.
But once running it runs 250 and never stalls.
I think I may be too rich on the low speed but not sure
I have stripped most of the plastic screws.
DO I use CA glue of something else?

What is the deal with the 10X15 bearings?
are they larger than stock?

I find the truck very easy to work on.
don't like the 90 degree angle the hole in the spur gear is and the adj slot for the 2 speed is 45 degrees.

looking foward to more hop up parts, and then I have a hot bodies 3.5 collecting dust on the shelf....:-)

would like to see a chart os all gear ratio and what gear fits with what.

here is the link to parts order picture someone asked for.
http://www.toyhaus.com/ff4wdmt.html

Ok I'll take a breath now and stop druling at the fingers.

auto2

11-08-2003, 07:52 PM

where did everybody go? what I got bad breath AND bad spelling?:-)

CEN racing- what is the turn around time of def. radios?

Mt2

11-10-2003, 01:49 AM

what are the specs on the stock servos for the mt2?
got some extras laying around and i just want to make sure i am not putting a worse servo in thier.

thanks

CEN Racing

11-10-2003, 03:43 PM

Turn around time is usually within 3 days.
You can use any standard size servo in the MT2.

Mt2

11-10-2003, 10:12 PM

Thanks cenracing, but I was wondering what the speed and torque of the stock servos were.

Thanks again and sorry for the confusion.
:)

auto2

11-11-2003, 06:47 AM

well if it is 3 days then we have a problem. How do I trace where my radio is? It's been 2 weeks now.

CEN Racing

11-11-2003, 11:55 AM

Give us a call. ITs the fastest way. IT possible that we have shortage on radio.

Mt2

11-11-2003, 09:59 PM

hey cen,
I think you missed my post :(

Later:)

CEN Racing

11-12-2003, 04:37 PM

4.8V .23sec 5.0kgs
6.0V .20sec 5.4kgs

Mt2

11-13-2003, 11:49 PM

what is that in ounces?

I cant find a conversion for kg to oz:(

Sorry for all the questions:)

CEN Racing

11-14-2003, 03:49 PM

1 oz = .0283495 kg

auto2

11-14-2003, 06:20 PM

my repaired radio came in the mail today. Thank you cen racing.
there was no paperwork with it .
Since I bought a 3pk in the interum anybody want to buy trhis mirage111 CEn radio and reciever?

auto2

11-23-2003, 08:09 PM

Ok I give up.
Please tell me what I am doing wrong.
The 2 speed won't shift.
First I loosened up the 1.5 set screw.
Then I put in the softer spring.Nothing

I took it all apart and reversed the shift hub thinking it was in backwards from the factory. After that it shifted a few times only.
Ok so I bought a new gear and shift hub.
Still no shift.

I included pictures please help.

(funny thing is it is plenty fast in first gear.LOL!)

auto2

11-23-2003, 08:20 PM

second image

auto2

11-23-2003, 08:50 PM

pick 3

that_one_guy

12-05-2003, 05:12 PM

i couldnt get my tranny apart so i recently ordered a single speed tranny w/ the .16 engine the shaft that bolts to the crank came loose and let the bell wiggle but the clutch could still engage, ripping my gears to crap, oh well i will probably go .21 in a week or so, gonna make some engine mounts at school

that_one_guy

12-05-2003, 05:15 PM

i think te servos have 60 oz. of torque

auto2

12-25-2003, 07:33 PM

seems a little dead in the thread.
Here is a pick of my newest addition to my CEN. a A hotbodies 3.5 with new era pipe. looks like I'm gonna have to stiffen up the suspension cause it now carries the right ft tire a good 3 inches off the ground till I let off.(re chicken out)

BTW I STILL can get the 2 speed to shift.I'm starting to wonder if it is the one way bearing and not the gear and fork I've been playing with.

Nitromethane

12-25-2003, 07:59 PM

Pretty Sad!
3 months after I have mentioned to CEN that they have misrepesented the MT2 on thier site as having a 13.39" wheelbase, I have noticed that they have not fixed or changed a thing.

Says alot about a company!:rolleyes:

By the way, my MT2 is for sale. Will sell cheap.

auto2

12-25-2003, 08:44 PM

well what is your defination of the word cheap?:_)

50 bucks do anything for you?;)

CENracer00

01-02-2004, 11:21 PM

i was drivin my FF MT-2, i went full throttle and it kept going after i let go, and i wasnt out of range and my batteries are fine. whats going on?

CEN Racing

01-03-2004, 12:52 AM

Sorry about the incident. Can be low on battery, can be setting, can be crystal, can be antenna. Give us a call on Monday. We will be able to figure it out through the phone.

unknown person

01-03-2004, 11:22 AM

my cen i got a year ago is a lump of poo the gears have shreaded 3 times and various things such as the sterring servo broke.

I wrote to CEN but they didnt do anything to help me in my reply, come to think of it they NEVER replied!!!!!!

I have spent over £60 in parts alone, and i am still spending!:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

what can i do to make this car indestructable!!!/work properly!!!!

please help

CEN Racing

01-03-2004, 03:09 PM

For any parts replacement/warrenty...etc It will be better if you contact the UK agent. We are only authorize to operate in U.S.

Send a email to Andy@cenracing.com for any tips on how to modify Mt2...etc.

auto2

01-03-2004, 04:55 PM

unknown person
I know CEn are not perfect but I have almost 3 gallons in mine WITH A 2.4 HP big block and the only time I wasted the gears was when the motor bolts loosened up.

HOw are you adjusting the gear mesh?

bonzi88

01-11-2004, 04:51 AM

Been working on my new MT2 ..preparing it for racing. Found the 5x15 bearings , built my own chassis brace, addressed steering linkage issues, digital steering servo ,etc , etc.

Problem i have is tires & rims. My local Monster Truck class rules specifies "MT" size tires. I really really (need) want to run the Proline Bowties. Is there a "big" rim avaiable with the small hex....or a a bigger hex wheel stop adaptable to the T-Maxx size rim. The T-Max hex bore is too big for the Cen axle.

If i can't find a solution....i just wasted $400.00 !!!

Thanks

Also...anybody find a bigger fuel tank to adapt to Cen MT2 ??

And....don't need a 45mph MT truck. Which gear could i change out with what number to get more bottom end snap for tight race track ??

jrjr

01-13-2004, 10:33 AM

Perhaps this has been covered but I have not been able to find it anywhere. The 10x15 bearings that are referred to in this forum are for both sides of the wheel hubs, correct? The stock ones are listed at 5x11x4. Are the larger ones 10x15x4 ? How will the larger size bearing fit into the smaller opening? Ok so I am a bit confused here!

Also, I have an ST2 but I am assuming that the bearing upgrade would be for my truck too. Is this correct??

Thanks!

CEN Racing

01-13-2004, 05:05 PM

Yes. Ball Bearing upgrade can be used on all of the Fun Factor series including ST, MT, Rally, Buggy,. ATX

jrjr

01-13-2004, 05:22 PM

Ummmm.....

Yes the upgrade will work for the ST2, or yes the size is 10x15x4 or yes to both?

How does the larger bearing fit in the space for a smaller bearing? Do I have to modify the bearing area at all?

CEN Racing

01-13-2004, 05:31 PM

No. The larger bearing goes right into wheel hub. Just remove the smaller ones and put in the larger ones. NO modification needed.

jrjr

01-13-2004, 05:45 PM

Ok thanks
One more time... is the size for the new bearing 10x15x4, where 4 is the unknown dimension..... thanks!

jrjr

01-15-2004, 12:32 PM

Hello, anyone home?

CEN Racing

01-15-2004, 06:11 PM

Part number : G73907

10x15x4 where 4 is the thickness

jrjr

01-16-2004, 12:34 PM

Thanks for the info. I will purchase one of these and see if I can figure out what you are talking about. Better than spending $50 or more for 8 of them and not have it work out. Thanks again!

U R 2klose

01-16-2004, 03:31 PM

I just got a new CEN r/c car. Can someone tell me some useful upgrades I should add to it.:confused:

U R 2klose

01-16-2004, 03:39 PM

I just got a new CEN r/c car. Can someone tell me some useful upgrades I should add to it.:confused:

jrjr

01-16-2004, 04:41 PM

If it is a car that you got, you might be better off posting in the CEN car section. This is a truck area. :eek:

U R 2klose

01-17-2004, 03:16 PM

oops

jrjr

02-16-2004, 11:09 AM

Ok, I got some of the larger bearings. After installing one I compared the slop to the other side with the stock bearings. It seems to be the same. What is the benefit of upgrading to the larger bearings? I think that the smaller bearing could be left in and just add the larger bearing. What is the reason to remove the smaller one? DETAILS please!

Oh, and it looks like only 4 are needed. It seems like somebody would have corrected me in my earlier post which said I was going to get 8 of them........... ????????????????????

auto2

02-16-2004, 11:14 AM

don't remeove anything just add the larger one. that is why yo don't notice a difference. you want 3 bearings per side.

jrjr

02-16-2004, 11:17 AM

Sounds logical to me
I wonder why CEN racing said to remove the smaller one??

jrjr

02-16-2004, 11:29 AM

Thanks Auto2!
I just installed the smaller bearing and an improvement can be seen. I also adjusted the pivot balls so that the A arms will fall freely but be the tightest possible. They were a little loose.

auto2

02-16-2004, 11:47 AM

I guess whoever you spoke to at CEN was doing a little too much drinking the night before. glad to help.

BTW ever seen my roll cage I made for mine?

picks are in her someware
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=116801 page 13

jrjr

02-16-2004, 02:43 PM

Yea, I saw it. Awesome! I may try my hand at something like that in the future. Have you 'crash' tested it yet?

I have only run 2 tanks through mine so far and just on the road. Everywhere else around here has six feet of snow cover! It's been a really hard winter for us, in more ways than one. I keep busy racing touring cars but long to get the CEN going full speed. Soon I hope, spring is just around the corner.

auto2

02-16-2004, 02:50 PM

since I added the mugen buggy shocks and aluminum clutch, and finished the roll cage It hasn't left the shelf.:mad:
until I can see the grass again(may?) I'm not venturing out. I got a T4 for indoor racing till spring.

goalie guy

02-21-2004, 10:41 PM

Hey all,
Soon I shall be making my first dive into NITRO:cool: ala a MT2:D Everything I have read seems to make me happy of my choice. I have a few questions if CEN or anyone could answer it would be much appreciated.

1. Cant get one locally, so what, if any, should I get as back-up's/spares? Or what can be substituted from another OEM.

2. Any tips on waterproofing, if needed, as I plan on doing some MUDDIN

Any other tips suggestions welcomed as well. Workin on reading up this forum as well as many others. Trying to get well read on these lil' beast's. Can't wait :D

auto2

02-21-2004, 10:54 PM

dif cups

extra body mounts

a spare body- do not trash the CEN one. they are very expensive to replace

universal swing shafts

o rings that go inside the dif cup

10X15 bearing upgrade

extra air filters

after run oil
Wd40

set of screws (incase one goes flying)

2 speed gears and maybe a clutch bell with gears

the cross pin that holds the tire on ( so when you remove a tire in the mud pit and the pin falls out......)

AND MOST IMPORTANT AND I MEAN IMPORTANT (important) is a fail safe.please get a fail safe. fail safe??YES!

or a real radio won't hurt.
eventually better servos

OH and a good reciever battery pack with charger.

OK I give up ..... next.....
:) :)

goalie guy

02-21-2004, 11:08 PM

Wow, thanks for the quick reply auto2. I was looking at a deal that came with a fail safe, either way I fully agree it's a MUST have.

Any suggestions or just any will do as far as the reciever pack goes. Thanks for bringing that up, I forgot to ask that one.

auto2

02-22-2004, 09:07 AM

the answer to your question is really about how much money you are willing to spend. I got the futaba 3PK radio and now have 3 recievers for it.each time I bought another car I got another reciever so I can go from car to car without changing anything. this radio is programable so I can pull up any cars I want to drive and store it's settings in memory. Took me a good month to figure out how it all worked.
Only problem with this is I can only drive 1 car at a time. So if a friend comes over we can't bash at the same time.
The other minor annoynce with a expensive radio is I feel like I'm holding a gold brick in my hand and don't want to "chuch it in the grass" to work on the car.LOL!

Then I got a used RC10GT that came with a futaba (cheaper) radio and for bashing it works just fine. I actually like it better for playing cause I can not worry about a 300 dollar investment and just have fun.
Sorry about all the words but bottom line figure out how much you want to spend and go from there.

twisted

04-01-2004, 06:41 PM

are you guys having problems with the 2 speed spurs striping out ?i read on other sites that this is a problem.thinking of getting this truck but not sure...

auto2

04-01-2004, 07:32 PM

well I have 2 gallons with the stock motor and another 1/2 gallon with a .21 big block. SO far I have the origional clutch bell gears and I had to change second gear cause of a misplaced pebble.
I have the origional 1st gear ;the clutch bell gears are warn to points . I think that is excellent mileage for plastic gears.

99 perecnt of all spur gear problems are mechanic error.
you have to check the gear lash ALL THE TIME>
if you hit something the motor may move no matter how tight you make the engine bolts.

the whole thing that makes the CEN cool is the fact that it is 2 to 5 pounds lighter than the "others"

twisted

04-02-2004, 12:51 AM

ya you make some good points but ive read that the part of the gear that the 2 speed catches on also wears out. do they make an upgrade ?

auto2

04-02-2004, 11:15 PM

no upgrade. and you are right it does wear out but it has a metal pin there and as long as the pin is still there it will shift.

J.cleave

04-06-2004, 03:10 PM

Hi

Could anyone out there be kind enough to send me some details on converting my MT2 to run a .21? I have .21 thunder tiger from a xtr with slide carb it's the carb thats confusing me !! plus what clutch bell set up do you recommend ?

Regards,

John

auto2

04-06-2004, 06:25 PM

Ct4 motor mounts

any buggy clutch. I have a mugen mbx in mine.
use the CEn clutch bell with 3 clutch bearings to take u p the space.

angle the carb and hook up to the servo arm

auto2

04-06-2004, 06:27 PM

new era makes a great exh pipe that will not hit the gas tank

pick herehttp://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136819

twisted

04-07-2004, 12:21 AM

hey auto2, hows the drive train holding up with that power ?

-=ADA$=-

04-11-2004, 05:36 PM

hi didnt have time to read all the posts, but i will, ive got Q is it easy to fit bigger engine, and is there a point in doing so, i was doing research for MT, and MT2 looks to be second best choice ( after LST) but is very inexpensive. Hows the durabilitie, when jumping, top speed, acceleration?? Alot of people here are getting savages, and i hate having what everyone else does, ( and LST is too expensive), so i think MT2 would be the choice, is there cheaper place than www.ultimatehobbies.com its for $259 there. So does it brake alot, and how does it handle more power?? Thanks ill read all thread tommorow.
Thanks once again

twisted

04-11-2004, 06:33 PM

i dont have one but from what i have read it is durable. the 2speed spur has some issues according to some people.

-=ADA$=-

04-12-2004, 08:57 AM

so is there a way to save the two speed? Im considering getting either MT2 or saving more money ( much more) and getting LST but to do so i would have to save probably one more year, or more, so is it wise investment??
Thanks, doest it have any more flaws??

CrankrodsKid

04-12-2004, 08:05 PM

I have a mt2, but it is currently broke. my friend was driving it, when the throttle got stuck wide open, it ran into a stump, did a couple of flips over his el camino, and was not harmed, proving there extremly durable. Anyway, me and my dad were messing with it when the throttle got stuck open, and neither of us could push it back, so my dad unknowingly stepped on one of the tires before I could clamp the lines, or the plug the air filter. The tire stopped, but one of the gears went flying off, do any of you guys know what could be the problem for the sudden wide open bursts?

baldeagle

04-13-2004, 10:13 AM

I have a problem with my 2 speed, but I think it is more of an alignment problem. I stripped out the 1st gear (the red 47T spur gear) by getting a small rock jammed in there and trying to force it out...oopps...won't do that again. I installed a new gear and it looked good but not more than 2 minutes into the run the truck stopped, still running but wouldn't move. I looked at the gear and the teeth on the gear I just replaced were all ground off. It looks like the clutch bell and the transmission gears don't mesh together very well and as a result, ground down the gear teeth. I looked and I don't see a way to adjust this. I thought maybe I messed up putting it back together, but I took digital pics as I took apart each piece to make sure I got it back together correctly. Anyone have any ideas? I can take some pics and post if that would help.

baldeagle

04-13-2004, 01:31 PM

Ignore the previous post. I got an answer that I believe solved the problem.

-=ADA$=-

04-13-2004, 05:16 PM

and the answer to all problems is....

cheerwhiner

04-18-2004, 10:25 PM

I'm considering getting this truck sometime soon. Suggestions? Tips?

n8works

05-04-2004, 05:28 PM

Hi all,
I'm trying to repair my MT2. I broke it on my first run! It was SO FUN that I'm itching to get it fixed so that I can run it again....

It looks like one side of the front wheel drive system is broken. From what I can see I need to replace the part in the attached picture. By examining the exploded diagram, I ordered FF001 - Transmission Housing thinking that it actually contained the item pictured. Alas, that was not the case and I have to re-order and wait another couple of days to get working on the repairs.
Can anyone help me out with identifying what I need to order to get this piece?

much appreciated!
Nate

auto2

05-04-2004, 06:03 PM

try to tell us what it wrong.
if you turn the center driveshaft do the ft wheels turn?
if you turn the left tire will the rt tire turn?(in the oppisite direction)

do you know what dif cup is? and can you see if it is broken?

the part you have circled is called a differential.

n8works

05-04-2004, 07:10 PM

Thanks! Ahh. I see the differential exploded on the diagram now... Its part number GX12 that I need. Thanks for your help!

auto2

05-04-2004, 07:15 PM

when you order the gx12 get a lot of um!!!:-)

that_one_guy

05-07-2004, 12:48 PM

what are everybodys needle settings? please tell soon

Weav5

05-09-2004, 09:17 AM

hey that one guy your needle settings out of the box should be 3 1/2 turns out on your high speed needle and flush on the low speed needle that is the factory setting
now that will change depending on witch fuel your running and how the weather is that day your running
i'm running sidewinder race blend fuel and the setting for my ST2 and the rally r 2 1/2 turns out on the high speed and 3/4 turns in from flush on the low speed
hope this helps u good luck

Weav5

05-09-2004, 09:48 AM

hey every1 need help i'm having problems with the cvs and dogbones on my ST2 they don't seem to hold up and r weak i've gone through 8 sets of the cvs's at 40 a pair and 6 sets of cup and dogbones at 20 a pair
dose any1 know of company that cvs for the ST2 and the Rally

frontman04

05-20-2004, 04:52 PM

Hi everybody,I amtheowner of a MT2 also can anybody tell me where I can get this .21 Conversion?

CEN Racing

05-20-2004, 11:06 PM

www.neweramodels.com

Primer

06-03-2004, 11:23 AM

can anyone help me get a full copy of the parts manual? I lost mine and I need to order parts!

CrankrodsKid

06-10-2004, 11:54 PM

can someone tell me the number of teeth on the first gear pinion gear??? it is not listed in my manual...

CrankrodsKid

06-11-2004, 04:49 PM

nevermind that post

Frapechino

06-21-2004, 11:53 PM

Its Being Done!

The Electric Cen Mt2 Is Being Constructed Right Now, In A Matter Of Days When I Get A Few More Parts Its Beauty Will Be Unleashed Upon You...its Coming...

nitro_newbie

06-29-2004, 01:02 AM

wat would be better a cen mt2 or an mt
email me at : gnismor34@aol.com

auto2

06-29-2004, 07:48 AM

the only difference is the color of the body

CrankrodsKid

07-01-2004, 08:40 PM

what weight of oil do you all run in this truck??? if i replace my 30 wt oil with some higher wt oil will it make the shocks stiffer???

CrankrodsKid

07-01-2004, 08:41 PM

what weight of oil do you all run in this truck??? if i replace my 30 wt oil with some higher wt oil will it make the shocks stiffer???

CrankrodsKid

07-01-2004, 08:43 PM

double post

HaiSpeedRaCer

07-07-2004, 01:09 AM

http://www.toyhaus.com/movie/mt2-256.wmv

CEN Racing

07-07-2004, 02:21 PM

Crankrodkid,

By stiffening the oil your car/truck will react slower. Your truck will feel stiffer and will have more "pack" when landing jumps... In other words... it will bottom out less. But, if you go too stiff you will loose traction in certain terrains.

slbks5

07-08-2004, 05:16 AM

Couple of Questions.....

1. How tall are the CEN MT2 Tires?

2. Where can I buy the CEN MT2 Tires?

3. Do these tires fit on 2.2" wheels?

Thanks

slbks5

07-08-2004, 05:17 AM

Forgot one thing.... are the CEM MT2 tires soft?

nitro_newbie

08-05-2004, 10:19 PM

i heard that the mt is 2wd and wat r the dimensions of the truck

thanx alot
nitro_newbie

tvannoy

09-27-2004, 11:56 PM

Well I have had my MT2 for a couple of weeks now... Drove it twice and broke it three times... Right out of the box the starter string pulled out of the started and messed up the spring, after some careful work I bent the spring back.

First time out the 2 speed transmission gears ripped out. What a pain to change.

Second time out I broke a diff Cup on the front end... :mad:

So AGAIN I am waiting for parts. I contacted CEN Customer Support via email and All the would give me was some Geninis Warranty sheet and no other help...

I feel I got ripped and should have spent the extra for a tmax :mad:

CEN HAS A LONG WAY TO GO! Especially in CUSTOMER SERVICE AND QC!!!!

If you want to redeam yourself CEN contact me at Gooseman0@yahoo.com

xdamxincx

10-06-2004, 11:28 AM

can someone give me a list of things to do to make my new mt2 race ready and reliable.. i have email sponsored cen racers.. they dont email back... thumbs down on that . but any help would be appreciated....

rawnitrojunkie

10-10-2004, 04:56 PM

when i got my mt2 i had the same problems with breaking the diff cups. i solved this problem by buying a 10mm aluminum tube and cutting short peices to use as sleeves on the diff cups. i havn't broken one yet.
with the gears just make sure the motor is in the correct postition. i moved mine over as close to the gears as it would go and havn't had the problem since.
to make the car race ready you could add a different motor, but thats about all. you can't get lower gears for it to give it more pick up. you can get gears for higher top end, but thats not real good on a track. when i used to race mine, it use to keep up with just about all the cars on the truck. it really comes down to driver skill and experience.

big cheese

10-17-2004, 06:31 PM

Can you tell me where to get diff cups?

Alen_k

10-19-2004, 09:23 AM

You can get replacement parts at http://www.rcmodels.com/car---truck-accessories-replacement-parts-by-manufacturer-cen-fun-factor.html

:)
Alen

Alen_k

10-19-2004, 09:57 AM

Hi guys. I'm new at nitro rc and have a MT2. Just broke the engine and a friend tryed to help me with tunning the motor but the result was a disaster... Now it's running in very bad conditions. It stalls, gets the motor very hot... It was running very well after the breaking of engine, the only prob was that it was consuming lots of fuel. Can someone help me reseting to factory settings? You may see some photos in: http://alenk.4t.com
I have sent e-mail to cen support team but they didnt answer...
Any help will be welcome.
Forgive my english.
Thanks
Alen

rawnitrojunkie

10-22-2004, 08:30 AM

the factory setting for the mixture screw is 3 1/2 turns out. screw it all the way in then screw it out 3 1/2 turns. when running it should blow a bit of smoke and run a bit hot. a good way to test the heat is to spit on the head. it should bubble away for about 7 seconds. any sooner then it may be to hot.
the low end mixture screw on the side of the carb, should be flush with the housing. you really shouldn't need to adjust it from the factory setting.

going by your pictures the low end mixture screw, the first picture with the black surrounding, looks like it should be unscrewed a bit. should be pretty much flush with the silver bit.
in the second picture the carb is open way to much. adjust the idle so that there is a gap about 1mm wide. going by your picture it must be idiling a 1/2 full throttle.
give all them a try and see how you go. good luck

Poor Judgement

11-19-2004, 07:25 AM

Hi, ok before i get flamed, i know my cen is a rally and this is the mt forum.... but seeing as its the same chassis etc, i thought u guys might like a look, I am getting round to converting to the mt setup, just perfecting the rally setup first. I have also posted in the rally forum.

I have the JT Racing chassis and OS18 CVR-X amongst other mods. Hope to be of some help and vice versa.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01219.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01283.JPG

more pics here (http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1003938)

Poor Judgement

11-26-2004, 04:08 AM

cmon cen owners, where are u all? lets see ur trucks!!

KawadaKid

12-10-2004, 10:36 PM

Ken,

Can u send me an email?

CENST2RACERX

12-19-2004, 04:37 PM

Quick question for Poor Judgement. What bell housing did you use for OS18 CVR-X???
The OS engine shaft is treaded, but not drilled to fit the Cen Bell housing screw. I went with a team Orion .18 Wasp. I really want the CVR-X Engine!!!

Poor Judgement

12-20-2004, 07:06 PM

hi,

its been that long since i had it in bits.... but iirc, there is a short shaft that screws onto the crankshaft with the threaded hole in the end, like an extension piece. i believe that shaft came with the cen engine, and car when i bought it new, rtr. ah just found the manual....

the cen part number of the shaft is sp34 and it should come with a suitable E clip or 2. if ur running a cen mt or mt2, u should have the part u need.

i am using the standard cen bell, well, the threaded cen c/b...

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01332.JPG

it will work!!

hope that helps - its a great little engine, especially for the price u can get it at now.

Poor Judgement

12-24-2004, 09:26 AM

ok, i guess this cen thread doest get used much, but, for anyone who has any type of cen funfactor - u might like this.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01343.JPG

i used my old spare chassis to lay it out cos i dont wanna drill my jtracing jobby if it turns out it wont work - but all looks good, throttle servo moves forward a bit, tank needs relocatin to batt box position, reciever to go in front of engine, and batts either out the back ala st, or between tank and steering servo.

i just hope it can handle my engine ok.... be a shame after all this effort if it cant take it. i cant get the 2 speed to work with this diff tho.

oh btw all i used were cen spares for the funfactor - the single speed spur fits right on the diff casing, thanks to a lazy draftsman i think...

CENST2RACERX

01-03-2005, 08:04 PM

Hey Poor Judgement, I went with your advice and got the O.S. .18 CV-RX engine! What a world of difference over the Team Orion .18 PRO engine! Just Broke it in Saturday, then I went ripping! Really awesome! Pull the front up real quick, and runs right around 195 to 200 deg. !!!!! So far my up grades are as follows:
*DUAL BEARINGS FOR THE WHEELS
*ROLL BAR FROM NEW ERA
*MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS FROM NEW ERA
*O.S. .18 CV-RX ENGINE WITH A TIGER DRIVE STARTER
*RIPPLED TUNED PIPE FROM NEW ERA
*ALUM. BRAKE SEAT
*METAL BRAKE WITH SHOES
*CV AXELS AT THE REAR
*ATOMIC BLACK SWOOP FORD 150 BAJA BODY
*14mm WHEEL ADAPTORS FOR TMAXX WHEELS
*JR XR3 RADIO
*HIGHTECH HIGH TORQUE SERVOS
More to come later, but it really flys!!! Can't wait to get it on the track this week aginst those T-MAXX's!!!!

Poor Judgement

01-05-2005, 10:54 PM

Hi stracer,

the os 18.... isnt it just the way to go eh? im waiting for the 14mm hexes myself, i hope the tmaxx wheels make the truck handle as good as they say.

Hows ur chassis holding up to the hammering of racing? if u can find one of the jtracing ones, i guarantee u wont be disappointed with it.

I have also used the os engine spacers as a more solid link between the throttle servo forward mount and the forward upper chassis plate, using some alloy mounts and the cen radio tray posts - check the pics. this stiffened the chassis up no end, not that the jt one is floppy or weak u understand... oh and a spare length of 3mm threaded rod finished it off, from the brake seat to the front diff. i only have a pic of the rod on the centre diff project, but i use the same on my runnin chassis.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01281.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-8/802664/DSC01404.JPG

I got a os t1030 pipe to try out with it too, i hope it was worth the expense.

What shocks are u using for racing by the way? 1/8 buggy front shocks?

Im glad to be of some help mate

Best of luck wiping the smug grin off those tmaxx owners faces!

CENST2RACERX

01-07-2005, 05:05 PM

The 14mm adaptors with the t-maxx rims and ONFA "truggy" tires make it handle so much better! I got my new threaded alum. shocks and I am running them with Team Losi Yellow 2.75in 2.0 rate on the rear and Pink 2.5in 2.3rate on the front. I also run the Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles on the front and rear with RPM Yellow Heavy-duty rod ends. I have the one way diff. on order fro the front along with the steel bevel gears for both boxes. Tommorow is my first race since the upgades, so I hope it does as well on the real track as it does on my practice track.

nitro_newbie

01-07-2005, 09:52 PM

could u post pictures of ur truck to see how it looks with the maxx wheels

Poor Judgement

01-07-2005, 10:52 PM

regards to the one way diff, truck78 halfway down the page on this forum had one... http://wildhobbies.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2824 i dont know if he just got a "bad" one or what, but he seems to know what hes doing etc, hes not a young kid.

how does the truck feel with that setup - please excuse my ignorance re the spring rates - its quite stiff i guess for jumps etc, and what weight shock oil are you using?

i have these ofna brick pins with some imex romulins rims & the adapters on order from renegaderc at the mo, should be here anyday - i hope! anyone got experience with these tyres?

CENST2RACERX

01-10-2005, 09:19 PM

Gotta get a digital camera first. All my hobby money goes to my truck and my daughters truck(rc10gt).

CENST2RACERX

01-10-2005, 09:34 PM

Hey Judgement, The front one way diff. is great to have for racing! I with the one way, the the truck brakes with the rear only, which with the metal brake upgrade, lets me take the corners like the 2wd trucks. The sprigs I listed are great compared to the pogo stick springs cen offers. I can handle the small jumps as well as the large ones now. I use a 45wt. oil in the shocks. The brick pin tires are great!!! Great traction!!!
I am going to try to rig a new set-up for my wheels. Proline now makes a conversion kit for drive hexes which changes from the stock 14mm to a 23mm. It just goes over your old 14mm hexes then is held in by a locking nut. Of course there is no direct Cen Fun Factor kit (surprise-surprise!) but they make a kit for the t-maxx 14mm hexes, which is what I have so I'm going to try it and see if it works. Proline makes the 40 series volicty wheels for the 23mm hexes. I can just imagine the stability with this set-up! I'll keep you informed.

Poor Judgement

01-11-2005, 04:30 AM

Thanks for the info re springs etc. I dumped the cen springs almost as soon as i got my cen, i got myself an associated spring kit to play with different rates etc, much better now, i just wondered if i was doing the right thing, noone here to compare to really. I found the green and silver (1.9 and 2.1 rated) to drive pretty good on the beach over shells and small rocks etc with 35 weight oil, along with a somewhat crude homemade rear anti roll bar, which needs refining, but works ok so far.

re the 40 series tyres - i asked renegade rc about the suitability of them on a cen mt, and they reckoned they would be way too much for it. i would be interested in how it turns out for u. i dont remember if renegade knew i had the 18 in, i have added the extra hub bearings, that should help, have u done the same? a monster steering servo will help a lot - what are u running for steering, throttle and rx batts? be careful with those poor skinny driveshafts!!

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html is this the hex conversion u mean? if so check out the animation, doesnt look like it will fit the cen very well... i could be wrong tho - i hope so!

Poor Judgement

01-11-2005, 04:55 AM

ok, i might have drunk too much coffee, but i just had a thought re this centre diff layout... bear with me here, i could well be takin things too far...

if i fitted the front one way diff, and a 3 channel radio set, i think it might be possible to create a kind of hand brake turn setup - ala rally driving etc, allowing the rears to brake/lock while the fronts have still got power, in theory, dont u love theory, it should turn on a dime, and blast out of the corners even better than the one way alone.

or.... without the one way, have the front braking while the rear has power for a true left foot braking effect. this is probably the way to go - not sure what the centre diff will make of all this tho, it will have to work hard for sure!

might be a bit tricky to set up well tho. i think it might work...maybe... u just got me thinkin when u mentioned ur turning like the 2wd trucks. im seriously struggling for space tho on the chassis, but i will take another look at it when i get a mo.

EDIT: aha - there is space for another servo behind the engine, but only just, as i have moved the engine forward etc...

currently the centre diff chassis has a 47t spur and 20t pinion, just cos thats what i had lying about spare...what ratios do u use for racing with the os engine? im guessing that the 2 speed isnt much use for racing, or is it...?

lol - sorry for all the questions mate!!

Poor Judgement

01-11-2005, 09:02 AM

ok my tmaxx wheels and adapters have arrived. did u just use large washers to secure the wheels and threadlock the nuts on, as the nylon part wont engage the threads with a washer under there? or are there nuts available with a larger flange to suit the wheels and 14-17mm insert?

presuming u have the romulins that is...

renchr528

01-11-2005, 07:59 PM

Who has the best price on the MT2?
Check out ehobbies.com

renchr528

01-11-2005, 08:06 PM

does anyone know of a roto starter & backing plate for the mt2

CENST2RACERX

01-11-2005, 10:35 PM

The Extra Hub bearings were my first upgrade. Makes a huge difference! As for you wheels, I'm not sure. I have the Proline Velocity 40 series wheels. My lock threads worked on mine. Maybe you can find some lugs that have the lock thread deeper. You could use loc-tight medium (blue) but it seems that would be sort of a pain if you pull the tires much. As for servos, I run a pair of HI-Tech 635MG High Torque servos. Made a huge difference over the junky stock ones. I run a 1200ah HPI battery pack. It really works great. Holds it charge and has plenty of power. Hey, just a hint, but I found a nice cheap addition to my truck. I customized a return spring for my carb. I run a micro fail safe, but you can never have enough protection. I got the Idea from the Duratrax nitro truck which runs a downgraded version of our OS .18 engines. Hooked one end to the top hole in my rotary carb, and hooked the other in my back plate. If you run a slide carb, then just disreguard. I'm working on my diff. cups right now. I'm fitting copper sleeves over them. I've only ever hurt one, but now that I'm racing, my truck is taking a pounding. By the way, I don't think the 23mm hex conversion will work. The wheels have the wrong offset, I think. Will have to investigate more.

CENST2RACERX

01-11-2005, 10:41 PM

renchr528,
Not sure if there is a roto start for the cen engine. I use a tiger drive rotary start on my cen st2, but I'm running a O.S. .18 CV-RX engine.Tiger dive does make a rotoary start for 6mm shafts, but not sure what the cen engine is.
I use the 2 speed tranny, but I use the stiff spring so the truck doen't shift while I'm racing.

Poor Judgement

01-12-2005, 04:35 AM

I believe there is a tiger drive that will fit the cen motor - im sure i saw it on e bay for about £8, it was cheap anyway...

i hear u re the throttle return spring - i have the slide carb, a neck of a balloon, or least a elastic band around the carb neck and anto the carb arm works a treat, along with the usual return spring, and a gws failsafe - yes i still currently have the cen servos!! not gonna be any good at all with these wheels n tyres, obviously!! but were ok for the rally, surprisingly.

re the 23mm hex, the one i have seen replaces the t-maxx 14mm hex... as the tmaxx driveshaft and drive pin are different sizes to the cen ones, im pretty sure its not going to work too well. but anything is possible with mods - a sleeve over the stub shaft might be the way to go...

im guessing that u are using the standard 1st gear ratios, stracer, the 11t pinion and 47t spur? i ask as i had to fit a 20t and 47t to get my flywheel to clear the centre diff - with these tmaxx wheels n tyres and using an online ratio/speed calculator, my truck will top out at about 70mph....lol yea right!... 45-50mph is a more realistic and possible (?) speed for me and bashing on the beach, so a maximum of a 14t pinion would be best. that however means taking at least 5-6mm off the overall diameter of my flywheel, or having it thinned down to nearly half its original thickness - i knew it couldnt be this easy.... i will see what i can do.

regards the 3rd servo and independant front/rear brakes - too much coffee then, huh?

oh do any of ur friends have a digicam? i would love to see ur truck stracer!

CENST2RACERX

01-12-2005, 05:34 PM

My sister has one, but shes out of town till next week. As soon as she gets back I'll get hers and take some. By the way, I'm trying to find some other truck CVD's that will work on my cen. I already ruled out RC10GT - You can make them work, but they are longer and They're thinner. Even if I have to modify someone elses, I want bigger shafts. I might try getting some custom made for me at the machine shop. The did quite a bit of custom work for my Triumph GT6. I know this is a lot smaller, but I think I can get a set designed and made. Will let you know. I've broke 4 of them so far (all in the front at the hex pin point) and I need a solution. I've never even bent one on my daughters RC10GT and I beat the living snot out of that! Well gotta get to the track, its practice night!!!!

Poor Judgement

01-12-2005, 08:12 PM

ive seen some decent looking cvds on some 1/8 buggies, they should be plently good enough if they could be made to fit.

Monsterbrad

01-13-2005, 08:44 PM

So what problems are you guys having with this truck????
i have heard that there are a few

Poor Judgement

01-14-2005, 08:32 AM

problems? erm, we dould do with some stronger driveshafts by the looks of things... if u read the previous posts u will see what we have done to our trucks.

i saw the tamaxx centre cv shafts described as 8x87mm, i saw the cen ones as 3x88mm... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPE8&P=0 now u dont suppose thats gonna fit the cen hub bearings do you? surely its not gonna be that easy... does anyone have a shaft lying about that they can try to see if it will fit?

CENST2RACERX

01-14-2005, 09:48 PM

Just checked it out, not sure if it will fit or not, but very exciting! Still need the wheel studs. looks like they are kept in place by a set screw. Gotta check it out.

Poor Judgement

01-14-2005, 10:14 PM

...the shaft is for the savage, not the tmaxx - or even the tamaxx... fingers not connected to brain....

Poor Judgement

01-16-2005, 02:20 PM

while we try to find out if the savage shaft will fit - here are some pics of the centre diff setup - now with a tank, steering, brakes and throttle linkage - woohoo.... still gotta get the mt shafts and arms tho... rally arms are fitted in the pics.

centre diff latest (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/FAO%3A_CEN_RACING%25_Centre_diff_for_FunFactor%3F/m_2430760/tm.htm)

Poor Judgement

01-18-2005, 02:37 PM

hey censtracer - did u get any pics of ur truck?

Alen_k

01-20-2005, 12:13 PM

Hello.
Can you tell me your motor temperature? In the manual it says that it should run at 220º but I read some where else that it may go until 280º after a top run without causing damage. As I already burned a motor I don't want to burn another... :(
And talking about the motor I burned can it be fixed? How? I know that without seeing it it's dificult but the main symptom is that the motor is weak. If you put your hand in front of the car you can feel that. But after some meters it gets faster, maybe because high speed doesnt need strenght (I think).

Any help will be apreciated.
Thank you very much.
Alen K

Poor Judgement

01-20-2005, 08:46 PM

ello mate,

are u sure its burnt out and not just running too rich or lean on the low speed needle?

if it is burnt out then u need a new piston and sleeve, i dont have the part numbers handy tho, try a search on google etc for CEN NT16 sleeve - that sort of thing... should find it somewhere, then run a search using the part numbers, after u find them. its not something i have had to do before, i run my motor a little rich to be on the safe side, i changed my cen nt16 for a os 18cvr-x, after a full throttle run into a lot of mud on the beach, it got into the engine and killed the cen motor.... i figured bigger was better and just replaced it!

i dont have any temp info im afraid, i go by the smoke and sound of the engine, and pray a bit! theres probably a bit more power available if i lean my motor out a little more, but its pretty damn quick as it is, so i leave it alone...

just throw another post up here if u get stuck mate.

hope that helps

Alen_k

01-21-2005, 09:10 AM

Hi.
Thank you very much for fast answer :)
Well, to tell you the truth this is my first car and all I know about rc is what I read on these kind of forums. I am shure that my engine was running too hot but not shure about the damage. The setting were also a mess. I bought a new one but I think that would be nice to fix the other. Now I have a Venom onboard temperature gauge and it tells me that I'm running about 266 at top.
One thing is for shure: it's not easy to start alone and you will learn the hard way to set up your car.
About your replacement, did it work? Is it faster? Do you need any kind of upgrade to install that motor?

Thank you
;)
Alen_K

Poor Judgement

01-21-2005, 02:11 PM

Poor Judgement

01-21-2005, 02:12 PM

(sorry for the split post... it wouldnt allow all this in one shot)

regards to upgrades... i melted the plastic plug that pushes the pads against the brake disc, and slammed the car into a railway sleeper at about 35mph, it bent the chassis and centre shaft about 20 degrees... so the optional metal plug and vented disc are now fitted. also i did the diff cup mod, details of which u should find easily on the rcuniverse forum, just run a search for it, it is well known now. other than that, erm, just making sure that the drivetrain is in good shape, and general maintenance, tight screws, thread lock etc are a good idea, as with any sized engine.

i do suffer a bit with twisted and, occasionally, a broken, driveshaft. bare in mind tho that i have the rally version of the cen funfactor, and not the mt. if this motor twists the shafts with the smaller wheels and tyres of the rally, then i would expect bigger probs when running the mt wheels and tyres. i will find out shortly as i am hoping to convert mine over to the mt asap.

once i get my head round building websites, nearly got it figured out now, i will be making a little site showing the mods and stuff ive learnt with the cen over the years, keep an eye out for it. ive just fitted a centre diff setup to my spare chassis, which is pretty cool, and a first, according to cen.

hope that monster sized post helps mate....too much coffee again....doh

Poor Judgement

01-21-2005, 02:35 PM

no worries mate - its what we are here for - ive still got loads to learn after a few years of messing about - im alone also in my area...

the replacement os 18 is a direct replacement, no extras required etc. i forgot all about the fact that the one i got had a slide carb instead of a rotary carb, which meant a new throttle linkage had to be made up, but that was no big deal in the end. it most certainly works and is a lot quicker acceleration wise than the cen 16, i have regeared it to suit the engine as best i can, and am now running the tallest ratios that cen produce, i feel i could get more top speed, but it would be at the expense of acceleration. top speed is a little over 50mph, although it looks more like 80, what with a cool rooster tail etc, as it flies down the beach.

regards to upgrades... i melted the plastic plug that pushes the pads against the brake disc, and slammed the car into a railway sleeper at about 35mph, it bent the chassis and centre shaft about 20 degrees... so the optional metal plug and vented disc are now fitted. also i did the diff cup mod, details of which u should find easily on the rcuniverse forum, just run a search for it, it is well known now. other than that, erm, just making sure that the drivetrain is in good shape, and general maintenance, tight screws, thread lock etc are a good idea, as with any sized engine.

i do suffer a bit with twisted and, occasionally, a broken, driveshaft. bare in mind tho that i have the rally version of the cen funfactor, and not the mt. if this motor twists the shafts with the smaller wheels and tyres of the rally, then i would expect bigger probs when running the mt wheels and tyres. i will find out shortly as i am hoping to convert mine over to the mt asap.

once i get my head round building websites, nearly got it figured out now, i will be making a little site showing the mods and stuff ive learnt with the cen over the years, keep an eye out for it. ive just fitted a centre diff setup to my spare chassis, which is pretty cool, and a first, according to cen.

hope that monster sized post helps mate....too much coffee again....doh

Poor Judgement

01-21-2005, 02:45 PM

Poor Judgement

01-21-2005, 03:24 PM

CENST2RACERX

01-22-2005, 08:52 PM

Hey there Poor Judgement,
Sorry, but no pics yet. Been out of town this week and came back jus tin time for our first big snow storm of the year! We got about 6 to 8 inches and its still coming down hard! Been working on my ST2 today. Polished up the frame (stripped it bare). Looks great! Looks much better than the purple! I've been working on the CVD project, and I have some prospects. I ordered a few different shafts from Tower Hobbies. I tried to get some measurements from the guys at the track, but most of them are jerks and don't like newcomers. Its the only part I hate about racing. Everyone acts as if they are gods gift to racing! So far I've finished 4th and 2nd. I can keep up or pull away with every other truck there. My frame is holding up quite well. There are a lot of jump and bumps on our indoor track and with the shock springs I'm running, it does beautiful!

Poor Judgement

01-23-2005, 08:51 AM

good stuff! let me know how the shafts work out, ill keep my fingers crossed...

renchr528

01-31-2005, 06:12 PM

Can someone tell me why Cen offers a spec&build sheet for the genises but not the Mt2 fun factor. I would like to get one if I can.

Poor Judgement

02-03-2005, 08:27 PM

cos they are a pretty useless company is the answer im afraid. there was an exploded diagram of the fun factor chassis online tho - if i can find it in the depths of my favourite folder i will post it on here mate.

Poor Judgement

02-03-2005, 08:28 PM

hey censt2racerx - how did u get on with the shafts? any joy there? ive been asking questions about the savage "centre front shaft" but people dont seem to be able to read posts properly before replying, so my head is getting sore from all the wall banging... lol

renchr528

02-04-2005, 07:22 PM

Thanks Poor Judgement . I'm trying to find the weight of the shock fluid that they use & also the caster, camber & toe settings.

CENST2RACERX

02-05-2005, 09:02 AM

Hey Poor Judgement, no luck yet on the shafts, but I'm still looking. Been working on a dual exhaust set up for both my trucks. Got the rc10gt's done, and I'm almost done with mine. The GT's sounds mean!

ace-boy

02-05-2005, 12:41 PM

Just picked up 2 Cen MT2 Fun Factor trucks for my son and myself. I am new to the Nitro crowd, but have been racing and bashing since my Tamiya Frog was brand new! What are suggested hop-ups and spare parts that I should have to make the trucks ready to compete in the Novice bracket at my local track? I did a fair amount of research on the truck and couldn't find a better bang-for-buck ratio.

Poor Judgement

02-05-2005, 02:21 PM

renchr - im sorry - i cant find the exploded diagram in my favourites... i printed it out too, so i know it exists, i will ask in my lhs next time i am in there, as i think they knew where it was on the net.

censtracer - i have had some sensible answers on this link here - if u can make sense of it all, there is some info towards the end of the thread which suggests we might be able to get the savage centre shafts to work http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Need_some_help_please_guys/m_2589902/tm.htm
it will mean that we will have to find some hub bearings to suit, but its a start, see what u think mate.

and ace-boy, u might like to take a look at a little website i made that covers all the mods i have done to my funfactor so far, i think i gave a brief description of the effects of each mod. hope this helps u out. its here - http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.palmer97/CEN%20Test%20Pages/Mods%20to%20make%20a%20CEN%20semidecent.htm

ace-boy

02-05-2005, 08:41 PM

Poor judgement,
thanx for the reply. nice website! i hope i can be as creative with my truck as you have been with your rally car! picked up some of those wheel adapters from renegade r/c. they are still around and still selling them! I got them because I want to put some road rage tires on the truck for playing around in the cul-de-sac. thought the tmaxx size ones would look a little cooler than the 2.2". have you guys seen the roll bar from new era? pretty trick little item!

Poor Judgement

02-05-2005, 09:07 PM

thx ace, u do know that all the bits on my rally will fit ur mt dont u? - just checkin...

good to know that renegade are still going too, the owner told me he was winding it down - maybe not... they are great people at renegade, very, very helpful guys they are.

renchr - 1/8 buggy front shocks are ideal replacements for the standard cen shocks, they work much better. oil weight and springs will depend on the type of terrain u are driving on, obviously, give us some idea of what u are doing with ur truck, and i will try to give u a ball park setting to try out.

379

02-06-2005, 06:28 PM

...good upgrades....check the first page of this thread and they're ALL listed there.

ahem...bodies for these things aint too hard to find, u can get one at walmart that only needs trimming and cutting (and hacking the ends off a soda can) to fit...see pic and my thread in the bodies forum http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53067&stc=1 :D perfect fit minus trimming the fenders and windows and enuff head clearance in the cab to run .21 and not have to hack the roof up :cool:

ace-boy

02-07-2005, 12:52 AM

Poor Judgement,
Yup, I knew the parts were all interchangable. That was one of the reasons I went with the CEN. If I want to run a stadium truck or a 4x4 buggy, all I have to do is change a few things and off I go!

ace-boy

02-07-2005, 01:08 AM

Anyone know what aftermarket bodies will fit the MT2? I know that the wheelbase is fairly short compared to other MT's. The original body is fairly expensive so I am looking into a body for bashing. Any Ideas?

379

02-07-2005, 01:13 AM

i have a body that i have used on my truck...and im modifying one from a walmart truck right now...i may be willing to part with the lexan one(unpainted, will bolt right on) if a few conditions are met...and i need parts money anyways(fore-aft flex tore the **** out of my 1st gear spur so the tranny is locked when trying to go backwards)...PM me and ill see about arranging something

Poor Judgement

02-07-2005, 11:37 AM

renchr - i found the exploded view on the web, its interactive, click on the parts to order them, but i havent dealt with the company, i just use their pic - its here - http://www.toyhaus.com/ff4wdmt.html

ace-boy i used the hpi supersize shell on my rally, but the range hpi do are all for cars. i am told by renegaderc that the electric stadium truck shells will fit. here is a copy of the email he sent to me:

"As for the body, the stock one is ok, but I prefer using stadium truck bodies from electric trucks like the Associated T3 or Losi XXXT. You have to do some custom body mounts, but it lets you run a race body that way.
T-Maxx bodies are too wide for the truck."

that was advice re fitting a shell to give clearance for t-maxx wheels, but the bodies should also be fine with the standard wheels and tyres, as they are a bit smaller than the t-maxx wheels and tyres.

hope that helps.

renchr528

02-08-2005, 06:40 PM

Thx poor judgement. I'm doing a lot of mudding & tearing up the grounds. I'm also doing alot of hi jumps but it keeps bottoming out. It seems that the toe is out alot though because it wants to drift to one side

379

02-08-2005, 06:45 PM

check ur shock caps on the side it tends to drift to, if u ever rolled it even once with the body off, u might have weakened them and finnally split them so they make the rear end act funny...mine did that...fixed it with superglue, but i want to just replace the shocks altogether with some that will lift it a bit...its not like i really care as much about COG as i do not getting stuck in some of the nastiest, gooiest mud to ever see RC tires...and standing water...some hardcore off-roadin... :D i put my truck thru hell and sofar ive only broke one shock cap and one spur gear(fore-aft flex, from the driving probably...donations welcome :D j/k)

renchr528

02-08-2005, 06:58 PM

thx 379 I'll have to check that out. I never thought about that. I'm kinda new to this. I really haven't done any of this for about 30 yrs. I 'm sure it will come back to me at some point , but I'm glad there is a forum for this to help me. I have plenty of time to check it out with the snow that is on the ground

379

02-08-2005, 07:05 PM

NP, thats why most of us are here in the first place...i suggest that u inspect ur shock caps in the back and take a look at the body post screws, mine got so bad i removed them by the first half-gallon, threadlock be darned...but as long as u take care of the engine, radio and chassis(needs to be stiffened or u'll loose a gear around gallon 2.5, like me) and dont crash ittl stay together

Poor Judgement

02-09-2005, 11:48 AM

for jumps u might want to try 1/8 buggy front shocks with around 60 weight oil in, and some pretty stiff springs. i have 4 ofna ultra lx shocks to try out, they are much better quality all round than the cen ones, with a good choice of springs - check ebay, i got a good deal on there.

as for the drifting to one side, just make sure u havent over-tightened the wheel nuts on one side before u do anything else...

i stiffened my chassis for about £1.20 by using some m3 threaded rod and a couple of rod ends, i screwed them between the brake seat and the forward throttle servo mount, with some spacers to raise the rod ends slightly. my servo is lowered tho, so i dont know if that will work for u, maybe if u go from the brake seat to the front diff casing it will clear the linkage. its not perfect, but its makes a lot of difference. the jt racing chassis is a lot stiffer, but im not sure if it is still available. check my little website for ideas on stiffening the chassis, i have done a few other bits to help too.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robert.palmer97/CEN%20Test%20Pages/Mods%20to%20make%20a%20CEN%20semidecent.htm

CENST2RACERX

02-13-2005, 01:25 PM

Hey Poor Judgement,
Gotta let you know about my latest upgrade. I pulled out my .18 CV-RX and Dropped in a O.S. .18TZ-TX engine. Its a Turbo engine with an O.S. rating of 1.8hp, but a recent dyno of the engine put it over 2hp! I broke it in today, then I let her rip! It will stand the truck up on soft wet ground! I really don't think I'm using this one at the track. Just to much power for our small indoor track. But what a basher! had to let you know.

Poor Judgement

02-13-2005, 01:58 PM

lmao! ive been keepin an eye on the prices of those motors, all my cash is being sunk into a new house at the mo... tut... thats gotta be a laff with that power in there! what does the drivetrain make of it tho? i guess u are driving with a fairly gentle "right foot" to save any breakages...?

i was planning on using that motor with my centre diff setup, to try to embarrass a few 1/8 buggy owners round here. and save the cvr for the mt setup.

do u have any pics of the install? id be interested to see how u mounted the pipe etc what with it being rear exhaust and all that gubbins.

also - did it go straight in? slide or rotary carb? pullstart? what clutch setup are u using? i expected it to need alloy shoes...?

good work mate - i bet u cant stop laughing!!!

CENST2RACERX

02-13-2005, 08:02 PM

I put the thing through the paces today. I figured I dumped all the mone into the steel gears in the diffs that it could take it. I was right too, and I didnt have anything break! It is truly awesome! Only problem is its not the most stable at high speed turns, even with the Maxx wheels. I lowered my shocks, and It did much better. I have a 200 yard field behind my house, and she rode a wheelie about 20 yards, then I let off. As for the exhaust, I used a home modified RS4 rear exhaust manifold. I used it as a base then added on with pipe to build my own manifold. To be honest with you, I think on a flat even surface, she will go over 60mph! As for the carb, I'm pretty sure you can only get the threaded shaft with the rotary carb. The carb reacts great. You can actually stand the truck up while your rolling. Just punch the gas, and that front end comes up! Like I said, I won't be using this on our indoor track, way to much power for it! Oh by the way, I got the pull start, but only because I use the Tiger Drive rotary start system on all my engines.

FFEMTBPA

02-14-2005, 08:31 AM

Just a question. I messed all the gears up in my steering servo ( All plastic) I have found where to buy a replacement, but can I get one that has metal gears? And if so, from where? And, will any servo fit the mt2? Sorry, this is my first truck, just started 4 days ago- Already need to replace that!! Thanks in advance.

Poor Judgement

02-14-2005, 01:20 PM

yes metal geared servos are available, have a search on google. hitec are popular, as are the jr servos, depends what u want to spend. any of the ones mentioned will be better than the cen standard servo. hope that helps.

cenracer: i still say u are nuts mate! glad to hear it didnt shred the diffs. i have also added the steel gears, and have got some metal spurs to try out also, if needed. i was looking at the manifold/header that u used, glad to hear that will work also, even if it does mean a little modding. u are gonna have to get some pics of the beastie!!

good luck - and dont break it!

ace-boy

02-15-2005, 02:16 AM

Just got my MT2's today! They look great! I purchased them without radio systems because I heard the stock ones sucked and I wanted to go synth anyways. So here is my delima. I purchased an MX3S system and went to put the servos into the receiver and the stock servo plugs didn't fit into the receiver. What is an easy fix for this? Can you purchase airtronic servo plugs at the hobby store and just replace them, or do I have to modify the ones I have? I'm itching to get these trucks running! Any ideas?

xdamxincx

02-15-2005, 05:00 AM

can someone show me a pic of the tmaxx rims and tires on the mt2 ??.. do they clear arms when turning ?

o yea poor judgement... where did u get the brick pins ???\\

and is the jt chassis still available .. and where to get it cheap ???

thanks guys

xdamxincx

02-15-2005, 06:22 AM

ok i think i figured out the way to make the 40 series rims and tires work ... the 23 mm hex adapter is the start ... now Storm GS buggys have a upgrade to a truck using wheel adapters.. .. the adapters should bolt right on to the 23mm adapter,,

if it wasnt 6am and no sleep yet i would go out to my shed and check it out because i have a storm bugggy and truck ....lol

Poor Judgement

02-15-2005, 12:04 PM

i got the brickpins with my wheels from renegaderc.com, they actually came off their own prototype mt2, so i got a good deal, along with the cen 14mm hexes and the 14-17mm adapters included with the wheels. i still havent run them yet, trying to sort my new house out... doh.

i got the jt racing chassis direct from jt racing on ebay, they crop up now and again, might be worth emailing them to see if they still make them. i paid under $50 for mine, but then i was the only bidder!

the tmaxx rims will clear the arms IF u use the imex romulins or any rim with a similar offset - the romulins have a 1/4" offset. careful tho, as the romulins have a 17mm hex fitting, u must make sure that u order the wheels with the 14-17mm adapter included, these also require a large washer to secure the wheels. u will need a 14mm hex to fit the hex adapters to replace the cen 12mm ones. i got 14mm ones to suit the cen from renegade, but i have heard of people just using tmaxx hexes, even tho they dont fit the shaft or the pins perfectly, and so far they seem to have got away with it.

http://www.imexrc.com/TEMAXX_RIMS_NEW.htm the romulins on this link have the 14-17mm adapters included

oh by the way, renegade rc reckoned that 40 series tyres would be too much for the cen to handle, bare in mind how flimsy those driveshafts are.... but best of luck to u if u want to try it!