Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0 [Archive] - Page 10

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vaderbxman

11-25-2006, 04:31 PM

Nice "steal"!!! :D

rigrishracer22B

11-25-2006, 04:57 PM

yeah good buy ... and I have to doo the same all my stuff is worn out and needs upgraded

RControl Freak

11-25-2006, 05:00 PM

yeah, the remote was apparently from a CEN Genesis that someone was customizing to race, and was buying a high end racing remote (aka, M11), and had no need for the stock MX-3. Still, I wanted a 3 channel FM computer remote, so......

vaderbxman

11-25-2006, 06:19 PM

Well, it's a good buy nontheless. Nice find!!

You guys know how to make a nitro 1/10 stadium truck stop being so loose everywhere?? My dad's truck is loose even on the straights. We've tried to put new rubber on the rear (Holeshots) and they work to a point, but we need to make the truck a little less prone to spin every time he gives it any more than 1/4 throttle. Any suggestions? :)

RControl Freak

11-25-2006, 06:59 PM

I'm guessing that you don't need the throttle control lecture..... :D

vaderbxman

11-25-2006, 07:54 PM

Yeah

it isn't a lack of driving skill, but a lack of traction. He gets loose when he goes anywhere past 1/4 throttle on anything. It's annoying to say the least.

RControl Freak

11-25-2006, 10:06 PM

did you check your slipper clutch?

vaderbxman

11-25-2006, 10:18 PM

Will do!! :)

RControl Freak

11-25-2006, 10:27 PM

yeah, the slipper clutch has a great effect on wheel spin..... I learned THAT the hard way with my friend's brushless mini-t when we were tuning it..... the wheels that used to be like step-pins are now racing slicks! :D

vaderbxman

11-26-2006, 09:29 AM

>_<

Nice, I hope those tires aren't too expensive. Thanks :)

rigrishracer22B

11-26-2006, 01:12 PM

I took the foam out of my bowties and the middle of the foam was hollowed out and the tires would not grip any.

vaderbxman

11-26-2006, 02:14 PM

Weird. We tried almost every shock set-up we could do (positioning) and nothing cured it. I guess he'll just have to be easy on the gas!

vaderbxman

11-27-2006, 07:34 PM

Check it out!!!

My Evader BX (it isn't in one piece right now, it's actually in several states of dismemberment) http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hugebxus8.jpg

My pride and joy, my Evader ST Pro: http://img371.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p8260013id8.jpg

My little bro's Vendetta (it scoots!!): http://img393.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p8260034qh3.jpg

Enjoy!! (and I know the paint job on the BX is pretty bad!

redhatman

11-27-2006, 11:23 PM

lookin good vader! I take it you like duratrax...

rigrishracer22B

11-28-2006, 12:11 PM

Those are some sweet cars. :cool:

rigrishracer22B

11-28-2006, 12:12 PM

Does anyone run 7 cell batteries in there evader?????

guver

11-28-2006, 01:50 PM

I run 8 in mine.

RControl Freak

11-28-2006, 05:01 PM

so if I were to buy some new tires, should I put holeshots on my list to consider?

vaderbxman

11-28-2006, 05:54 PM

Yes, it's pretty much the best tires you can get for anything 1/10 scale. Make sure to get the right compound because I got a really soft compound, and they didn't last very long, but they gave awesome traction.

@ everyone: Hehe, yeah I kind of like duratrax. I really don't have very many complaints about them. However, I am considering a factory team version of their T4 to make a competitive (beat) truck to combat my dad's nitro evader. I was thinking a 10-turn SV2 orion, 8-turn limit intellispeed, futaba metal-geared servo and a basic receiver (using my 2PL as a radio). what do you guys think (keeping in mind I do have a budget of about 350.

RControl Freak

11-28-2006, 06:24 PM

man, I SO want a new engine for my t-maxx!

vaderbxman

11-28-2006, 06:31 PM

Just to upgrade or because you got a kaput motor. I can tell you the O.S. CR motors are awesome and reliable. My dad's got the .18 in his, and it'll do wheelies if he stomps on it hard enough. WHOOOOOOOOSHHHH!!!!!

RControl Freak

11-28-2006, 06:34 PM

im going after that 2.5 hp picco motor from ofna (yeah, I know someone who has the evader, and that engine hauls ass!) :D

vaderbxman

11-28-2006, 07:22 PM

The stocker motor for the nitro evader sucks, but that picco sounds nice!! Let me know how many wheelies you can pop with it!! :D

RControl Freak

11-28-2006, 09:11 PM

you want to see something crazy check out this: this guy stuffed a .40 4 STROKE into a t-maxx: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5306223153386116752&q=t-maxx&hl=en

vaderbxman

11-28-2006, 09:49 PM

>_<

Sick!! You've read about the 160 Mph RC car right (in da mag)

RControl Freak

11-29-2006, 04:16 PM

yeah, I've heard about it too! Don't want to crash that thing! :D :eek:

rigrishracer22B

11-29-2006, 06:31 PM

Yeah if you do you might as well just through it away...

RControl Freak

11-29-2006, 06:33 PM

dude, screw that, give it to me! :D

vaderbxman

11-29-2006, 08:22 PM

I bet the Li-po's would survive the crash, and I'd mod my car to accept that heli-brushless motor :D

RControl Freak

11-29-2006, 08:24 PM

hey, vader, do you have aim?

vaderbxman

11-29-2006, 09:15 PM

Nope. :(

Can't wait for christmas and my possible new charger!!! :D

rigrishracer22B

11-29-2006, 09:20 PM

What kinda charger are you getting...

vaderbxman

11-29-2006, 09:55 PM

Maybe, I'll be getting this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUF45&P=7

I've read nothing but good reviews about it. Can't wait!!!

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 04:28 PM

you may want to look at the version of that intellipeak that can charge two batteries at once!

vaderbxman

11-30-2006, 04:38 PM

I've looked at that, but it doesn't have that auxillary charging port for transmitter betteries and such. I was also looking at the one with the LCD (not the ICE one) but decided that the charger I want now is good enough for what I want to use it for, plus it has fans, because my charger overheats too easily.

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 04:39 PM

i have the one with the lcd, and its not all that great.... it gets the job done! (Another bit of advice, I know you like duratrax, but you might want to check out Dynamite, they've got some good stuff!)

vaderbxman

11-30-2006, 06:21 PM

I like Duratrax because I've had pretty good luck with them, and I guess I'm a little reluctant to try someone else. I know they're pretty good, but I had a bad experience with HPI, and it's been instilled into my mind ever since. I am changing brands of cars hopefully by may, because I'm not looking at the factory team kit for the T4 and I'm looking at the GT2 RTR. Can't decide just yet: I'm weighing the pros and cons for the two. I'll probably decide a month in advance so I can prep myself for arrival. :)

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 06:36 PM

you go with what you trust, that's the way its goes

vaderbxman

11-30-2006, 07:20 PM

I don't know though, I think it's mentally instilled into my mind that I trust duratrax because the ST was my first RC-grade truck.

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 07:26 PM

all I'm saying is that me, personally, I don't really like my charger, and my friend has the Dynamite, and that sucker can charge two 3000 mah batteries in about 15 minutes flat! That's pretty good! :eek:

rigrishracer22B

11-30-2006, 07:47 PM

The chrger that charges two batts at once is alright but I personally like mrc

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 07:50 PM

the super brain series, right? Heard good stuff about them too. :)

rigrishracer22B

11-30-2006, 07:57 PM

Yes they are very good chargers I have the 959 for 2 years know and it is starting to get weak....

vaderbxman

12-01-2006, 07:30 AM

I'll look into it. Thanks guys!!

rigrishracer22B

12-01-2006, 04:02 PM

get the black charger Im not sure what the # is but it has a fan and can chrg 2 batts at once... Oh and it has an lcd screen..

RControl Freak

12-01-2006, 04:17 PM

Still, I'm sure you'll find the charger you want, 'cause if you're like me, you research the crap out of anything before you buy!

vaderbxman

12-01-2006, 05:21 PM

I do research everything pretty well. I've been researching the GT2, Nitro Evader, and recently added to the research list, the T4 factory kit. I'll list the electronics I want to stick in it when I finalize them (to a certain degree, a couple of thngs might change around, but the final price tally should be about 330-350 dollars)

RControl Freak

12-02-2006, 03:25 PM

if you're looking for a steal on electronics, make SURE you check eBay listings!

vaderbxman

12-02-2006, 04:15 PM

Noted. :D

Here's the list of things I want to drop in it:

Intellispeed 8T = 74.99 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU0&P=ML

Futaba metal-geared servo = 34.99 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=7

Team Orion SV2 10 turn motor = 28.99 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAJ7&P=7

Futaba 2-channel receiver = 31.99 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMRE6&P=7

I'll make sure to get a crystal set and a gearing set, but I need some imput on what gearing I chould get for that 10-turn motor. ( I do want to be conservative and let the motor run fairly cool ;) )

Grand total: (not counting gearing and including 7.99 tax and kit) 366.93

That does blow my budget a little bit, but again, things might change around and such. I do kind-of want to stick to Orion and Futaba because I've had awesome luck with them, and my dad's used Futaba for almost 10 years. :huh:

Let me know about this set-up, and give pointers and suggestions about gearing and how I should put this thing together!! :cool:

rigrishracer22B

12-02-2006, 07:08 PM

My uncle runs this same set up and my streak esc with the 11 turn sv2 method outruns his.....

vaderbxman

12-02-2006, 09:55 PM

Do you mean like them same car, or just the electronics. It might have to be 1337 skillz too! :D

rigrishracer22B

12-03-2006, 01:51 PM

lol yeah he runs the esc and a 10 turn sv2 method motor but he has a team losi xxx-t truck... and I have the evader st (not the pro)... :wave:

vaderbxman

12-03-2006, 02:04 PM

And how fast the truck goes is determined by the driver, not the technology. So you're beating the pants off a car that costs so much more than yours. Music to my ears!!!

So does anyone have suggestions to electronics?? I do want to have reverse because good drivers sometimes do nose it into walls. I also want it to be pretty maintinence-light. I know the ESC and motor are proven to be pretty robust, but I don't know about the rest of it. :D

rigrishracer22B

12-03-2006, 05:59 PM

Im not bragging or nothing my uncle bought my car and all of my stuff.
and if I were you I would go with novac

vaderbxman

12-03-2006, 06:30 PM

I'll check them out.

Me and my dad have some pretty good bash sessions at our track. His is a powerhouse when it comes to clearing the last set of doubles and rocketing onto the straight, but I can catch-up in the corners because I'm a pound lighter, and I can stop quicker beccause I don't have to wait for my motor to slow-down. It's a fun match to watch unfold!! :D

RControl Freak

12-03-2006, 09:20 PM

oh, word of advice on the sv2, make SURE you get the one with the ball bearings, 'cause that one you have listed has bushings!

rigrishracer22B

12-04-2006, 03:41 PM

I would get the 1 with the bearings too it adds speed

vaderbxman

12-04-2006, 05:37 PM

I looked into the Ball bearing, and it adds maybe 500-750 RPM to the final speed. But ball bearing sound nicee for long-lived motors (I've got no complaints about the one I have now!!! :D )

rigrishracer22B

12-05-2006, 08:31 PM

I wished mine had bearings and does anyone know how to get more speed out of the evader????

Boostin_69

12-06-2006, 06:31 AM

Dones anyone have ANY info on this ESC http://www.rchobbies.com.au/store/product_info.php?products_id=3412&osCsid=c54b4f5d04c0146918b4904da8bfb22f

I want to buy it real quick so i can get my evader running again.

vaderbxman

12-06-2006, 07:28 AM

Uh, well that looks an awful lot like this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU0&P=ML

If that's the case, the intellispeed ESC are great budget-racer controls, with plenty of extras thrown in to satisfy the amature racer in all of us. I, personally, have never heard of that brand of ESC. You might want to poke around to find reviews or other possible speed controls. Novak makes pretty good ones, and so does Associated. You just have to spend some time looking at them all before you decide.

@ rigrishracer22B: I don't know about top speed, but you can try experimenting with tires and shock springs for turning speed, but I don't think that's what you want. A 7-cell battery is a good way to get some more speed out of your motor, but be careful on the gearing and such!! :D

leuphole

12-06-2006, 05:43 PM

sup everyone . . . its been a while since ive been here but its good to see some of the same names around that were helpful to me in the past. alright here's my deal . . . pretty soon after i got my st pro, my steering servo began clicking a bit, like maybe the gears were stripping or something. it continued to get worse over time but was still drivable, but today it finally went to s#!t. so, the time has come to buy a knew servo and naturally i turn here for advice. im looking for a strong, metal gear servo that will last. any suggestions ???

vaderbxman

12-06-2006, 06:33 PM

O.k., you have 2 options:

You can get a Hitec metal-geared servo to drop-in it, which have been declared bomb-proof, or you could get the Futaba S3305, which is pretty good too, but not as popular as the hitecs. Both servos are excellent, but price may make you decide between the two.

For a temporarily solution, you can cut off the little stud that limits the main output gear from turning, and just flip that gear around, along with any other gear that has stripped. That worked for me for a long time.

BEFORE you put any new servo into it, clean-out the servo saver really good with some dawn or other heavy-duty cleaning product, and oil-up the metal shaft and the two plastic pieces with some WD-40. You will have to repeat the process about every 10-15 runs, but the reward is break-free servos. I haven't broken a set since I started doing this.

I hope this helps, and welcome back!! :D

slotracer

12-06-2006, 07:52 PM

How is the Evader Pro for racing compared to the AE ?
The AE has a wider wheel trac. Would the Evader be at a disadvantage with the narrower wheel trac?

vaderbxman

12-07-2006, 07:23 AM

The Evader was recently tested against the T4 a couple issues back. The guys there could get the regular evader, not the T4, but the regular Evader to keep up and be about 2 tenths behind the T4. Condsidering the T4 has a much better motor, I think the Evader Pro will keep up with the T4 and maybe beat it!

The evader does have slight steering slop, but not too much. Also, the T4 has no bump steer because of the angled bell crank system.

leuphole

12-08-2006, 10:55 AM

sweet, thanks

leuphole

12-08-2006, 11:03 AM

regarding the hitec servo you mentioned, got a specific model in mind ?

slotracer

12-08-2006, 11:19 AM

Thanks Vader. It seems that I was reading the specs wrong. There is only a 1/8" difference in the width.

vaderbxman

12-08-2006, 04:57 PM

regarding the hitec servo you mentioned, got a specific model in mind ?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ80&P=ML

This one looks good. A little pricey, but for the torque and durability, this is a definite value! They might have a couple of other models of this one, but this one should do. 143 Oz. of torque! :eek:

elecracr

12-11-2006, 07:21 PM

I have been using a plastic geared high torque servo for months in my brushless evader bx, and have had no problems with many wrecks and uses.
I never clean my servo saver every 15 runs just because I only clean my car throughly once a month or so.

vaderbxman

12-11-2006, 08:11 PM

I never stripped-out my BX servo saver too, and that thing was stiff. The BX uses smaller wheels up front so in a wreck, the wheels don't get jerked to one side. At least that's what I think. :)

rigrishracer22B

12-12-2006, 04:03 PM

I cant get a 7 cell battery to fit in the evader...

vaderbxman

12-12-2006, 05:11 PM

You might have to grind-off those two little pegs on the inside of where the foam usually sits to get the battery to fit. Don't knwo what to do after that. :D

elecracr

12-12-2006, 10:46 PM

What type of pack is it? Flat or Hump?
If it is hump you may need to think of another type of battery strap.

vaderbxman

12-13-2006, 07:20 AM

Yeah, if it's a hump pack, you can fit it in there by drillig two slits on either side of the battery compartment and running a strap through, or use a strip of velcro. I kind-of wished they used a better way to secure the battery to the car, like that the Rustler and T4 have. :D

rigrishracer22B

12-13-2006, 04:14 PM

yeah but I have a standard 7 cell flat pack and I will have to cut those tabs off but why, in the manuel it says that it requires a 6 or 7 (or 7)
cell battery pack.

vaderbxman

12-13-2006, 07:25 PM

I know, that sounds weird. I don't have a 7-cell pack to try to modify my car to see if I can get it to work, but that's strange they market that when it doesn't fit. :huh:

vaderbxman

12-17-2006, 08:35 PM

I blew another O-ring in my shocks yesterday. Come to find out that I didn't tighten down the shock cap enough to ensure a good fit. I rebuilt it (there was no oil inside: it was ALL over the left front A-arm) and it works like a charm, again. I made sure to tighten it down really good, but not so far as to strip threads.

I'm looking into putting a videocamera on my future E-maxx. Anyone else wanted to do that to their Evaders?

As a side note, I drove my dad's notro evader for the first time, and that thing files. i'm a little jelous of it, but i can still hold my own if I drive a good line around the track. I still can't clear the giant jump in the middle of the track, but I can make do and turn good lap times! :cool:

redhatman

12-17-2006, 11:43 PM

I'm looking into putting a videocamera on my future E-maxx. Anyone else wanted to do that to their Evaders?

I did it on my evader and my tt-01. It works pretty good actually. I still have the videos also I would just have to find them. I think its just fun to go fast on the road and then fly through the grass and watch it.

02edge2wd

12-18-2006, 09:18 AM

Anyone know if any other spur gears fit besides the duragrax gears? It seems i get some that are very out of round and maybe lopsided so they eat teeth on some very quickly. Also if you have any part # it would be very appriciated. Thank you!

elecracr

12-18-2006, 09:34 AM

I use kimbrough spur gears. Them with a robinson racing pinion make for a very quiet and smooth driveline.

About the 7 cell pack, the only seven cell pack that will fit into the evader without modification is a 6 cell flat with one cell off to the side next to the battery strap. If i were you i would just cut the slits out and be done with it. They made the car to fit a 6 cell nice and easy in it. The rustlers and pedes dont even fit flat 7cell packs if im not mistaken.

rigrishracer22B

12-18-2006, 03:31 PM

vaderbxman

12-18-2006, 06:28 PM

I did it on my evader and my tt-01. It works pretty good actually. I still have the videos also I would just have to find them. I think its just fun to go fast on the road and then fly through the grass and watch it.

What camera did you use, and what kind-of quality did you get out of it?

I'll be looking into a kimbough spur and pinion gear set to complement my soon-to-be 12 turn evader. The guys at the track came out when i plugged-in my fast battery (one of my V-maxxes) and they wanted to race against me, but both of them were used to 1/8 scale racing, so they left their stadium trucks at home. But it fells good to be complemented by the guy who owns the place! :cool:

redhatman

12-18-2006, 11:15 PM

I just used my digital camera. It is a 2.1 megapixel and Gets 320x240 I think. It actually is decent and wasnt too shaky. I just ductaped the camera on the top of the body.

guver

12-19-2006, 02:49 AM

http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc3000.html

This 86 tooth spur seems to be a better quality than the stock 88 tooth and very round.

ps I use 7 cell flat batts in my evaders .

vaderbxman

12-19-2006, 07:22 AM

How do you get it to fit in the evader??? Me and rigrishracer are stumped.

On to the video, I was looking at this cheap videocamera at circutcity for 100 dollars that takes 640-480. Maybe I'll look into that.

redhatman

12-19-2006, 07:28 AM

My digital camera is a picture camera, but records video aswell. I dont fit it inside, I fit it ontop. Just dont roll the evader.

guver

12-19-2006, 01:14 PM

Just jam it in there, sometimes the esc is mounted too low and those two battery hold down guides ARE very sharp so have to be careful removing it. I also run a 6 cell pack all the way back so it is the same thing , really. The best thing is to taper those two guides so they are round instead of square and they won't tar up the battery wrapping.

Maybe the larger cells are a pain too.

rigrishracer22B

12-19-2006, 06:10 PM

I dremeled off the piece of the chassis that is behind the servo just to get a venom 3300 6 cell batt to fit. well it would fit but it would cut the wires every time cause I would have to jam it in there.

vaderbxman

12-19-2006, 08:55 PM

I tuck the batt. wires into the foam, facing the opposite direction most people have their battery set-up.

rigrishracer22B

12-20-2006, 10:10 AM

I have done that before but I would always be in a hurry and forget to put it in that way...

vaderbxman

12-20-2006, 04:58 PM

I usually take 5 and let my car cool, and make sure I haven't knocked anything important off. So far, I have prevented a CVD from flying off, and kept a shock nut from backing out. (I funked-up the threads to the middle hole on my front A-arms, so I had to change positions)

elecracr

12-21-2006, 11:45 AM

I always look over my car before i make a run and make sure everything is running correctly. I can fit all of my six cell packs into my evader with no problem out of the box. I have a few 7 cell humps i made to fit into the evaders battery thing also.

vaderbxman

12-21-2006, 04:12 PM

Cool!!

I might be not visiting these forums as often as I do come next summer because I'll have the E-maxx in my posession. I'll still hang around here though, because the evader is still my favorite car!! :D

rigrishracer22B

12-21-2006, 06:11 PM

yeah I think the evader is the best bang for your buck...
I keep shooting pins out of the dogbones and so far this year all I have broken is the front axel carriers or hubs whatever there called.

vaderbxman

12-21-2006, 06:32 PM

yeah I think the evader is the best bang for your buck...
I keep shooting pins out of the dogbones and so far this year all I have broken is the front axel carriers or hubs whatever there called.

Have you gone to CVD's? And if you do, make sure to put a little bit of heat-shrink tubing over the pin to prevent it from shooting out. If you want a cheap fix to the axle pin shooting problem, take a paperclip (fairly thin and without a plastic covering) and thread it through the pin and tie a knot. (Basically, a loop through to catch the pin if it comes off) I haven't tried this, because I don't have a set of dogbones, but it sounds good.

The evader is the best rounded truck. It doesn't go as fast as, say a T4, and it isn't as bomb-proof as the rustler, but it offers the best of both worlds. Great truck!

rigrishracer22B

12-21-2006, 06:34 PM

I will try the heat-shrink wrap thanks

elecracr

12-21-2006, 11:54 PM

When I had dogbones for about a month before I got the CVDs I ran with just a paperclip ran in there instead of a pin with a 13turn hand wound motor. Every once in a while i would have to replace it but not too bad.

I have not had one problem with the CVDs on my evader pro even with brushless power.

Within the next year im really hoping to be getting some lipo batteries and making this evader very fast. I will up the voltage and get a higher turn motor. This thing will fly and handle very well with this little bit of weight.

vaderbxman

12-22-2006, 09:53 AM

I've had the pin fly out twoce on my Evader. (found it once, then lost it the second time) Since then, I put some threadlock on my setscrew and tightened that thing down until the wrench almost broke, and it hasen't given me guff. Nice evader set-up there! :cool:

elecracr

12-24-2006, 02:33 PM

Well, I got my car back together and made a part that will work to hold my suspension arm on for now untill the new part gets here. The part was holding up good so I started doing jumps, this did not go so well. I broke both sides off of my rear shock tower when jumping off my ditch, using way too much speed and landed up-side down on the street after like a 5-6 foot drop at almost full speed. I am actually surprised that the suspension arm was the only thing that broke. I have a spare plastic one so it will not hold me up or anything.
I geared up my brushless a bit because I could run back to back GP3300 packs and it would be just barely warm to the touch. It is running quite a bit quicker now.
I think I may change out the dirt hawgs I have on the car because they used to be a good all terain tire but now with all this power it is a struggle trying to get traction anywhere with them.

vaderbxman

12-24-2006, 02:55 PM

I have a set of dirt hogs for mine, and I don't get any traction on anything except concrete and grass. I use Holeshots on the rear and edges up front. I can put the car anywhere i want on the track. For loose sandy dirt, step-pins would work, and bowties are a good long-lasting tire for all-around racing. (I put them on if i want to drift around my track, but if i baby the throttle, I still can turn good laps)

The dirt hawgs last forever, but have so many large tread blocks that you're better-off running foam tires back there. If you get holeshots for your car, let me know how well you can put the power down. :driving:

elecracr

12-25-2006, 01:30 AM

I already am running the holeshots and can get traction around the track just fine... I run holeshots and ribs for when I am not bashing but going around the track, as long as Im not too trigger happy I can ussually keep it under control.
I am saying more just for grass and concrete bashing. I am not sure what I am going to do about that yet, Im not really sure if there is much I can do to get better traction without having tires that wear out all the time. I think I may play with a few suspension setups to see if i can get the car to stick to the ground better.
Il get back to you all if I figure something out.

vaderbxman

12-25-2006, 07:42 AM

Well, my dad recently bought some tracta-gater tires for his nitro evader. We glued em' up, and put them on, and fired it up to see what kind of traction it could get. HOLY CRAP that thing wheelies down 3/4 of our back yard before he has to get off the gas to keep from going into the neighbor's yard. He made 12 passes like that, each one being a wheelie!! We had to stop because he stripped-out his steering knuckle arm again. (same one, just rescrewed in the second hole)

That was the most awesome thing I've seen any RC do. Too bad they don't make a pair for an E-maxx. :D For concrete, he uses road rages. He's only used them twice, but when he does, it corners like an indy car.:)

elecracr

12-25-2006, 12:18 PM

I used to have road rages, the only problem is that I like to run on and off road at the same time... I think that the dirt hawgs will be fine if I can get my suspension setup correctly for these conditions.

vaderbxman

12-25-2006, 12:25 PM

Oh. I got my metal-geared servo and 12 turn motor today. I can't get the car to move because i screwed-up my pinion gear trying to get it off. (cacked-on to the shaft) so i have to wait to go to the LHS to buy a new one, but the servo is awesome!

Wizardman_1

12-25-2006, 08:26 PM

elecracr- what kind of kimbrough spur gear are you using for your bx?

rigrishracer22B

12-27-2006, 10:39 AM

rear pic of the vader..
with the streak
http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p118/rigrishracer22b/?action=view&current=IMG_0032.jpg

rigrishracer22B

12-27-2006, 11:04 AM

left side pic of the evader

http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p118/rigrishracer22b/?action=view&current=IMG_0035.jpg

vaderbxman

12-28-2006, 12:58 PM

Nice!! i like the body and the zip-ties holding the drive shafts in place! :D

rigrishracer22B

12-28-2006, 02:11 PM

Thanks.. yeah The zip ties help from shooting the dogbones out when you loose the pin.. :D

vaderbxman

12-28-2006, 03:12 PM

I thought that's what you were using them for. :) I can't wait for the track to dry out because I'm so hyped-up to drive my improved Evader ST!!! I've already diven it around my backyard a couple of times, and it's so much faster in a straight line and corners quicker. After I was done, the ESC and motor barely had any heat. (it stank, but my last 2 SV2 motors have done that)

elecracr

12-28-2006, 10:59 PM

I used to love my team orion 13turn motor. I bet your having a blast with the 12turn, they are great motors.

I have been driving my evader in the mud lately because my esc is waterproof and my reciever has been coated in epoxy to protect it from mud and water.

vaderbxman

12-29-2006, 09:01 AM

My 15-turn zinged around the track, so my 12 turn should fly. :cool: I bet mud-riding is fun, until you have to clean it and discover mud in places that shoudn't be dirty. :eek:

rigrishracer22B

12-29-2006, 02:26 PM

yeah very fine dust will find those places too, my vaders tranny was full of dust..

elecracr

12-29-2006, 03:03 PM

Yea, the mud is fun but I try to clean my evader very well after I do some mud running. The biggest thing is cleaning all the bearings and reoiling them after they get wet and muddy. It is all worth it in the end, and I can now disassemble the evader very quickly and efficiently.

I am thinking about getting an emaxx or something like that, maybe even a cheap 2WD monster truck to bash around in the mud with so that the evader can stay in on those rainy days.

rigrishracer22B

12-29-2006, 03:18 PM

Get the BOMB PROOF Stampede that thing is so strong I have only broke a spur gear and bent shock shafts on it and it is 3 years old.
And I run the crap out of it.

vaderbxman

12-29-2006, 04:57 PM

I'm getting the E-maxx around late may early june as a gift for good grades. Gotta study. :teacher:

on to the Stampede: That thing looks pretty slick, and is indestructable too, with the new motor treatment. :D

rigrishracer22B

12-29-2006, 10:49 PM

Hey vader can you post pics of your evader I would like to see it. and anyone else post some pics

vaderbxman

12-30-2006, 09:16 AM

I don't have a camera of my own, but I do have some Pics of it flying through the air: :cool:

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4503/p8260003bo1.jpg
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/914/p8260037qf2.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1779/p8260015yt6.jpg

Enjoy! (i have a couple more some pages back)

rigrishracer22B

12-30-2006, 07:05 PM

thanks and nice truck

vaderbxman

12-31-2006, 10:00 AM

I bent the drive axle on the right-rear of the car. I landed spot on that part of the car and did 6 cartwheels before stopping. I flipped it over and went to drvie away and noticed the right-rear all bent ouf of shape. I thought it was a pin I sheared off (I bent one), then I thought it was the rim (I widened the slots on one side of it), then I went to put it in the car o go and niticed the axle bent at a 20 degree angle. I have a replacement, but I'm framing the old bent axle. :D

rigrishracer22B

12-31-2006, 02:56 PM

yeah I have never bent an axel before and I hope I never do...
but I broke both front hub carriers hitting a wall head on.

vaderbxman

12-31-2006, 06:41 PM

>.<

I've got both of those pieces on my keyboard waiting for the knuckle arms to come in the mail so i can convert my old Evader BX to a roller ST. :D

rigrishracer22B

12-31-2006, 08:57 PM

Does anyone know if duratrax is going to come out with a newer style of the evader?

vaderbxman

01-01-2007, 10:03 AM

Maybe they'll do what they did with the first Evaders by copying the Losi XX-T chassis design, but in this case, copy the Losi XXX-T or the Associated T4. Just a thought. :D

rigrishracer22B

01-01-2007, 01:39 PM

Yeah, you never know.

rigrishracer22B

01-01-2007, 06:48 PM

Well im A little late but happy new year guys. And hopefully no one tears up anything expensive.

vaderbxman

01-01-2007, 07:28 PM

Heh, happy new year to ya too!
You mean, by tearing-up something on my evader? ;)

rigrishracer22B

01-01-2007, 10:39 PM

yeah this year I have spent 100$ on parts and electrics just on the evader :eek: and hopefully I dont spend that much this year on it.

elecracr

01-02-2007, 12:26 PM

last year i got an evader bx kit after i wrecked mine, a hitec servo, 6turn brushless motor, speed control, different parts i broke, wheels and tires. This is by no means a cheap hobby. I am going to try and get some pictures up today of my buggy.

rigrishracer22B

01-02-2007, 04:14 PM

no this hobby isint cheap especially for me I have no job and no sponsers.. and please post pics

vaderbxman

01-02-2007, 08:31 PM

Heh, same here. I'm funded solely by birthdays and christmas. (and good grades by the end of the year.:D)

I bought the BX kit after my old ST went under a truck and died. I really didn't like the buggy-feel, and i missed the truck-like feel of the old ST. So I've decommissioned it to a parts roller, and I'm using the parts on my ST Pro.

I sheared-off the axle pin today just making some passes at the local dirt oval. Nothing serious, just some speed runs to prove my ST Pro will smoke a stock ST. :D I came out of a corner and I lost power. Figuring it was a lost pin, I asked my family to look for it while I took it back to the bench. I went to pull the axle out, and the pin was still in there. The set-screw didn't fail, but the axle pin itself broke. That sucks, because I don't have a spare. I do have the leftover driveshafts from my old ST to use, so I'll drive around for a bit on those.

rigrishracer22B

01-02-2007, 09:16 PM

I wonder ho people get these big sponsers??

Crash7772

01-03-2007, 09:24 PM

I wanted to say hello to all and here's a pic of my Evader ST Pro. I will be working on finding some speed in "on road" form this winter with plans to hit 50 mph. The lack of snow has given me time to put attention to my RC. We have several guys within a 6 miles radius and all with Evaders. 7 to be exact right now. We are also planning on building a track if time and money allows in the spring. I've been in the sport for many years and look foward to helping fellow ST owners out.

I also attached a video of my racing a REVO which is what has me looking for speed. I beat up on the Nitro guy that trashed talked me for 3 weeks saying Evaders sucked so now I'm supposed to race a Jato in the spring.
http://www.zippyvideos.com/5231933174781716/untitled_0008/

vaderbxman

01-03-2007, 09:51 PM

Welcome aboard!! Nice car also!

It's always fun to silence people who trash-talk evaders. I did that to a guy who was at the track one time setting-it-up for a race latter that day. He said it sucked, until I made some high-speed runs past him! :D

elecracr

01-04-2007, 01:46 PM

What motor and speed control are you planning on using to hit 50mph. My setup is pretty fast eventhough i am not sure on exact numbers.

Crash7772

01-04-2007, 02:10 PM

I figure I'm mid 30's on 6 cells now but I'm going to baseline my current set up on 6 cells, 7 cells, and finally 8 cells (on radar). My current set up is Novak 410 M1c ESC with a Trinity 9T single (Dyno Number 35,100 rpms @ 5 volts; power 166 watts; torque 95 nmm) with 2.2 Proline Striker II tires and 23/88 gearing. The video of me racing is with a 6 cell Venom 3000 pack. After I run the above set up on 8 cells I plan on installing my Mamba Max 5700 with 6 cells, 7 cells, and 8 cells. Pending on what speed is reached with the 8 cell 9T or Mamba 5700 I will plan around that as I can run up to 12 cells on both ESC's. My goal is to reach 50 mph on radar with 8 cells max and by using gearing, aero, suspension, etc..... I also might look into running Lipo's as they claim 60+ mph with the Mamba Max 5700 on 3s which is about 11.1 volts.

rigrishracer22B

01-04-2007, 03:50 PM

Good luck with that and I hope you whip that Jato all over the place.
Now when you race the jato will it be a flat drag or like a race on a mx track?
P.S welcome to the forum

Crash7772

01-04-2007, 06:17 PM

Good luck with that and I hope you whip that Jato all over the place.
Now when you race the jato will it be a flat drag or like a race on a mx track?
P.S welcome to the forum

Well, I'm assuming it will be similar to the down and back race I did with the Revo seeing how my Boss is the one with the Jato and we will be racing at work on lunch break. It was pretty funny racing the Revo, there was about 25 people behind us watching the race (as I mentioned it was trash talking for 3 weeks from the ntiro guy), so I'm sure there will be at least 25 if not more watching this race. On a side note I hope we can get the track together this spring which will be a MX style track. I attached the layout we are trying to duplicate (shooting for 40'X80' with about 10' wide lanes).

vaderbxman

01-04-2007, 09:21 PM

Nice track. Mines a bit bigger, but looks worse. :D

rigrishracer22B

01-04-2007, 09:51 PM

Woah nice track.

rigrishracer22B

01-07-2007, 01:44 AM

I just got back from racing my evader and I was second in the a main four laps in my truck landed wrong and I broke the right rear hub :mad: I think I am going to upgrade to all graphite.

vaderbxman

01-07-2007, 09:54 AM

I've got all graphite on my truck, and I still break something every now and then. Mostly just stripping threads out of parts. You will break parts if you land wrongs. Just racing. I've broken stuff by just landing at fairly-low speeds and survived high-speed impacts. If you were really into durability, you could try some aluminum rear hubs and aluminum front knuckle arms. Duratrax also makes some titanium hingepins to make it a little less prone to breakage. (I've never broken one myself, but it's just insurance)

02edge2wd

01-07-2007, 11:14 AM

Is anyone having issues with bending the motor plate on your evader? I have the ST Pro version so it uses an anodized motor plate, i have been through 3 of them, none lasting very long. It seem any bump to the motor/rear will bend this causing it to be slightly out of alignment with the spur so it eats gears like no other! Is the heatsink plate from duratrax any stronger?

Also i noticed the slipper plates do not rotate evenly. I replaced the top shaft, slipper plates and all gears with no luck. The new plates i didnt even use because they seem even more off? It dosnt appear to be the topshaft because if you spin the wheels it rotates with no wobbles at all until the slipper is installed! Is the lightened slipper plates any better?

Am i just spinning my wheels on replacing things? It seems that the tolerances are not that great with duratrax...even the gears are way out of round depending on what size gear!

vaderbxman

01-07-2007, 01:36 PM

Wow. I haven't heard of that many problems with an Evader. I've never bent a motor mounting plate. You might have a bad bearing somewhere in the tranny that's throwing everything out of wack, but even then that dosen't sound like it solves the problem. You could also try using a different spur gear/pinion combo, but again, doesn't sound like the probelm you have.

I think you might have gotten the dud of the ST Pro line-up. Keep in mind Duratrax will probably help you out with your woes. In the past, they've replaced my dad's nitro evader ST motor with a whole new one because the old one sucked. There's another guy on here that had his Evader ESC replaced for free because his was broken. More than likely Duratrax will help you out with your scktacular tranny.

Good luck!

02edge2wd

01-08-2007, 06:25 AM

I didnt think that i was having the normal problems. ive been crusing these boards for a while and ive never read about these issues i keep having. I keep thinking im crazy but if i lay a motor plate flat you can tell it got tweaked, and it wasnt like that new because after this happened the first time i check the new plates also! I think i am going to go with the heatsink plate and see if its any more sturdy, or try a stealth tranny or something similar!

vaderbxman

01-08-2007, 05:59 PM

I have heard of the B2 transmission working on the Evader, but it requires massive modification and parts that are really difficult to find. And to be honest, I land with on all fours or slightly on my nose. I have had a couple of landings that make the car do a front flip, but it usually takes it in stride. I'm looking at the heatsink just as a bling item to make the motor run cooler, but it might be a structual reinforcement as well.

It does look thicker. :D

02edge2wd

01-09-2007, 08:11 AM

Yeah, that was my thought also, it look a bit thicker so should be a little stronger!? Thanks for the help Vader!

vaderbxman

01-09-2007, 05:05 PM

No prob man!! I can't credit myself for knowing everything, beucase I've read alot about it in reviews, posts here and at RC universe, and out of others experience. :D

bsr077

01-12-2007, 08:17 AM

Just got my DI, not bad, but I hate diff builds, first buggy but am very familiar with the TA05.

How hot is the motor meant to get? I am running a Novak SS13.5 Stock Brushless on the standard gearing (with a LRP Sphere) and got to 157, outside temp was around 80 or 90 (summer evening)

Any suggested "Stock Motor" gearings?

So far only hop ups have been a Kimbrough Servo Saver, was using IB 4200 Cells (WC Matched)

Have been told in order to get:

Heat Sink
Alum Dampers
Slipper Clutch
Turnbuckles

Any thoughts / ideas>?

evst 360

01-12-2007, 01:54 PM

Crash7772

01-13-2007, 11:19 AM

My thought: lower the gearing. BL motors require lower gearing. That is why it is so hot. Lower it by a couple teeth on the pinion and see what happens. By "stock motor" I am guessing you mean a brushed stock motor. My co27 likes 17/88 gearing, and it may vary a little between different motors. Another thought here: The Evader comes stock with a slipper clutch. You may not need to order that. :cool:

I don't think 157 is extremely high for a motor temp. He doesn't have a slipper clutch, alum dampers, or turnbuckles because he has a Tamiya Dark Impact not a Evader. They are all good upgrades IMO though.

evst 360

01-13-2007, 06:15 PM

I don't think 157 is extremely high for a motor temp. He doesn't have a slipper clutch, alum dampers, or turnbuckles because he has a Tamiya Dark Impact not a Evader. They are all good upgrades IMO though.
I'm sorry, I missed the dark impact part. I thought he had an evader because this is the Duratrax Evader ST forum. :cool:

Crash7772

01-13-2007, 07:07 PM

I'm sorry, I missed the dark impact part. I thought he had an evader because this is the Duratrax Evader ST forum. :cool:

I was thinking the same thing until I read the post again. I figured posting in here was a mistake or just looking for any advice out there. I started with Tamiya's and are great for beginners but it seems most can only be taken so far in performance.

redhatman

01-14-2007, 10:40 AM

I started with Tamiya's and are great for beginners but it seems most can only be taken so far in performance.

Thats pretty much a generic rule, each level just varies slightly. I think Tamiya can get farther than duratrax as far as performance/hopups.

vaderbxman

01-14-2007, 01:02 PM

Tamiya is better with factory hop-ups than Duratrax. I mean, yes all cars have limits on speed and such, but Tamiya, I think, is better capable of matching that limit.

Crash7772

01-14-2007, 02:28 PM

Probably because Evaders already come with a lot of features and if you have the Pro version then you have even more. I can't think of much I can or would do to my Pro that would make it any better than it is stock (I don't consider electronics as part of this). The Evader Pro's give all the other "brand" names all they want and them some for a lot less money. Full bearings, aluminum shocks, slipper clutch, adjustable ball diff, turnbuckles, bell crank steering, 2.66 gearbox, universial shafts, ESC, painted body, plus 1 year 's worth of replacement parts if you break anything. And that's only on the regular ST. The Pro has all of the above plus complete graphite chassis (with tons of settings and adjustments including toe adjustment front and rear), Proline tires (front and rear), ESC good for down to 12 turns with ABS braking and traction control.
I haven't looked at to many Tamiya's lately but I don't ever remember seeing much of any listed above stock on a Tamiya's. I could never really compete with any of my Tamiya's except for putting a big motor in and run oval but the gear ratios were limited and was real hard to get good run times. Tamiya does have the realism factor with a lot of there RC's though.

vaderbxman

01-15-2007, 08:35 PM

Crash7772

01-15-2007, 09:13 PM

Amen!

I've got to hunt down a nasty sound that came out of my Evader yesterday in the middle of my last battery. I think it has something to do with the motor, but wish me luck (I'll share my dilema when I find it, and when I get around to it.:D )

Check all of your driveline. Motor, spur/pinion, diff, cv shafts...It doesn't take much to pick up a rock or have something come out of adjustment in the driveline. My cousin picked up a rock about the size of a grape in between his a-arm and cv shaft. Made a weird noise and was very hard to remove.

:teacher: Sorry about all the ranting in my last post but I feel the Evader is about the best bang for buck going and on top of that......I was bored.

vaderbxman

01-16-2007, 07:29 AM

Check all of your driveline. Motor, spur/pinion, diff, cv shafts...It doesn't take much to pick up a rock or have something come out of adjustment in the driveline. My cousin picked up a rock about the size of a grape in between his a-arm and cv shaft. Made a weird noise and was very hard to remove.

:teacher: Sorry about all the ranting in my last post but I feel the Evader is about the best bang for buck going and on top of that......I was bored.

Will do!! :D

I had a rock the size of a dime wedged in-between the driveshaft and the rear a-arm. It made my suspension remain collapsed from after a jump, and it took me a 1/4 of a lap to catch it. There's this ring around my driveshaft from the rock getting in there. :roll2:

rigrishracer22B

01-16-2007, 02:43 PM

Does anyone elses tranny hit a tight spot when you unhook the motor and the axels and turn the spur gear mine does and my brothers does too?? is this normal?? :confused:

guver

01-16-2007, 03:39 PM

Lots of my new ones did that and may be better if loosening trans case bolts slightly.

vaderbxman

01-16-2007, 05:42 PM

My BX had that problem, and so did my dad's NEVST. We traced the problem to a bad bearing in the top shaft. Annoying really. :roll2:

TeamMishap

01-18-2007, 04:38 AM

Haven't been on here in FOREVER. Work and weather are keeping me from playing too much.

I have an original Evader ST, and I busted the rear chassis plate. I finally ordered a fresh one, but I went aluminum. Now I've got these suspension mount thingees I can't discern how to assemble.

I know the positioning of them plays with the rear toe. I D/Ld an Evader Pro manual and can see that mounting position changes the toe between 0, 1.5, and 3 degrees.

There is a notch on the suspension mounts by the mounting holes. Which way do these notches face? Towards the front? Back? Doesn't matter?

Also, what's a good all around setting for backyard bashing?

Thanks for any help.

John
Landstuhl, Germany

Crash7772

01-18-2007, 07:23 PM

vaderbxman

01-18-2007, 09:22 PM

Crash7772

01-18-2007, 09:29 PM

Hey vaderbxman, I was reading you post a few pages ago about upgrades totaling $366ish. If your going to spend $75 on a ESC and $35 on a motor why not add another $80 and just get a Mamba Max system? I picked up a new kit for under $190 shipped. They are fully tuneable (for all out power, acceleration, braking, etc....) and the 4600 and 5700 kit run 6 cells up to 12 cells if desired plus Lipo's.Just makes sense as the brushless are less to manitain and run longer than brushed.....Just a thought.

TeamMishap

01-19-2007, 07:04 AM

For minimal sidewall wear, drive at 0 degrees, but you will have a problem with traction. If you run 3 degrees of toe-in, you get great on-power traction, but wear-out your tires faster, so I think running a 1.5 degrees is best. I took out the toe-in on mine because I run Hole-shots and get awesome traction. Crash has got it nailed with the advice!

I'm going with 1.5 then. That was my gut feeling, but you guys confirmed it. I'm not one to fiddle with setups a whole lot, but since upgrading to the aluminum plate, figured I mind as well set it up right.

Now I just have to order new stuff. My hinge pins were bent, so I've got some ti ones coming and had to order some more clips (hinges not trapped towards center any more), screws (danged upgrade didn't include screws, so I cannibalized them from the bumper). Tower probably missed me. (laughs)

Thanks for the advice.

John

vaderbxman

01-19-2007, 07:35 AM

No prob!! :D

Have you looked into this bumper? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=7

I've got it on the front of mine and it does a lot better job of being a bumper and keeping the front from digging-in when I land on my nose. As a couple last pointers, remember to loc-tite your set pins and tighten them down real good! :)

TeamMishap

01-19-2007, 09:18 AM

Crash7772

01-19-2007, 10:20 AM

Have you guys seen the toe block braces? I haven't broken any yet but seems a lot of people have. I believe positiverc.com is the site. Comes with new hinge pins for the rear.

vaderbxman

01-19-2007, 06:23 PM

Awesome. I was just going to ask about that.

What are the set pins? The screws that hold the suspension mounts onto the chassis plate?

My Evader is pretty tricked out with aluminum now. Just need some A-arms, and I'll probably junk the stock servo next time I CAB. I can't believe I've had this car for going on 5 years now. Gonna suck when it's discontinued some day.

Vader...I'll be moving to Bama in July. Know if Montgomery has much in the way of RC stores? I know Tusc is about 2 hours away, but maybe you've been through the area.

I haven't been through Montgomery, but I bet i can use some local search engines to find one. i'll check back with a list after dinner. :D

The set screws are what hold the kingpins in place. (if you take the front wheel off and look at the back of the front axle, there is a black dot on the back. In there is the set screw.)

The Hingepins, what holds the arms to the car and hubs to arms, are the ones secured by E-clips

If you are going for new front arms, The aluminum Nitro Evader ST Arms fit, but NOT the rear arms, because they have a different mounting position.

I'll check back in about an hour.

vaderbxman

01-19-2007, 07:22 PM

Here I go. I did a quick search of local forums and such, I've only found one track:

- http://lagoonparkrcraceway.com/
(on-road: looks nice, but not off-road)

That's actually kind-of sad really. :eek: I live in a town of half the population, yet have 3 times the tracks. :rolleyes:

I'll give you the link to the track I race at in town, but it's all the way over here. There's at least 2 in birmingham, but I can't give percise locations because they are unlisted (which might be the case for the Montgomery tracks too.)

www.HobbyRaceway.com

I'm sorry I coudn't be much more of a help. :( I bet there's at least one hobbyshop in Montgomery, but you'd have to track it down.

miksnake

01-23-2007, 01:12 AM

I just picked up a used Evader ST (awaiting arrival). It's my first car, so I basically know nothing at this point...trying to move up the learning scale.

So, forgive my ignorance.

But, what limits the ability to upgrade the performance of a car. I read a lot that you can only take this or that car so far, but what exactly limits this ability? How can you determine what parts you can upgrade in your car to improve performance (i.e. motor, servo, etc.)? Why can't you just keep putting in faster parts along the way?

I know, most of you are probably saying "are you kidding me", so I apologize again.

But, thanks in advance for any advice. Or, if there are any good websites, articles, etc that you can point me to. Basically, I've found the 'getting started in RC' type articles that say a servo is this, a motor is this, etc. But, I haven't found the next level of information that's not overly technical, but explains the basics such as this car can upgrade to these kinds of parts but not these, etc.

Thanks again.

Cheers.

TeamMishap

01-23-2007, 12:11 PM

I think you'll find the Evader thread very friendly. For starters read a lot of what is in the thread. There is an incredible amount of Evader info in here.

Second, use the search function. Many of your questions may have been answered already.

Always have fun and never stop learning.

My Evader was my first R/C car. Think I got it in 2001 and I'm still loving it. And I think you will too. I remember how freakin' awesome it was to run it the first time after playing with Radio Shack junk. How my buddies laughed at my toy, as I was 31 at the time...and how they couldn't wait to play with it. Bone stock, as your first real R/C car, you will dig it.

Sure it busts, but it has a great warranty, so save your receipts. Soon you'll wonder what a "real" motor will do. You'll drop a new one in and get all fired up again.

That real motor will suck some amps, so you'll ditch the cheapo 1500mAh cheapy packs and buy or build a high capacity quality pack and wonder why you wasted time with the cheap stuff.

Now after bunch of reading you'll find out that an new ESC may be pretty cool. And it is. Higher efficiency, less resistance = more punch. This will probably cost around $100. And if you are bitten by the bug, you'll get one.

Aluminum is cool and available, new meats and rims too, but they don't have the performance highs you can feel with the other purchases. I got mine and I like 'em.

Then you may get sick...and start wondering about brushless. Its a good sickness, but expensive. You'll shred your diff and tranny. You'll buy aluminum stuff to go in there. I even changed my pinion and spur pitch (home mod, easy, but nothing you'll find at the shop) because the power was shaving off the teeth.

Oh yeah. If an Evader is your first real R/C car, and you don't like it, you probably won't like anything R/C with four wheels and a steering wheel on it's transmitter.

Let us know how you like it :)

John
Landstuhl, Germany

vaderbxman

01-23-2007, 05:40 PM

^^holy MOLE!!!!

He hit the nail on the head. You are going to have to buy new tires for it because it has a very soft compound. When he was talking about motors, some buy the 27-turn motors so that they work with the stock ESC.

I have the Pro version, and used to own the regular version. I loke the pro because of the upgrades that come with, but you can buy some graphite upgrades for a fairly low cost.

As for the ESC, I run the 12-turn limit Duratrax Intellispeed ESC. It's awesome, and you will grin from ear to ear if you run a good 12-turn motor.

This thread is stuffed with cool information, so be sure to check it out!! :D

Crash7772

01-28-2007, 07:35 PM

I'm creating a page for the Evader and general RC tips and tricks. Please let me know if anybody has anything to add.

TOP 10 EVADER UPGRADES (average prices cheapest to most expensive)

1.MIP SHOCK SEAL KIT $3
2.CARBIDE THRUST BALLS $8
3.CARBIDE DIFFERENTIAL BALLS $9
4.PINION GEAR SET OF 6 (ODD OR EVEN) $11
5.ALUMINUM IDLE GEAR $17
6.TOE BLOCK BRACE (IF APPLIES) $30
7.BRUSHED MOTOR $35
8.METAL GEAR SERVO $40
9.RIMS AND TIRES $45
10.BRUSHLESS SYSTEM $190

EVADER WHEEL OPTIONS
#1 LOSI XX-T/XXX-T/XXX-NT/MF2
#2 DURATRAX REPLACEMENT
#3 ASSOCIATED T2/T3&B2/B3

MAKE A WING FOR YOUR EVADER
You’ll notice that a lot of things you buy regularly will work for this such as the packaging on flash lights, toys for the kids, cordless tools, etc..... Find a piece of thin plastic/lexan and cut to desired size. Once done use either velcro strips or 2 small screws with nuts on the back side of the body for quick and easy removal. Now you’ve add some traction for pennies.
NIMH BATTERY CARE
The following are answers to 10 of the most commonly asked questions about the care of NiMH batteries.

1. Which amp rate should I use to charge the batteries?
After initial testing, Jim has settled in on a 5A charge rate for the Trinity team drivers. Though this is a little higher than the rate recommended for average users, he's comfortable that it doesn't harm the batteries. He has tested at higher rates (up to 9 amps!) but found higher rates unproductive. As with all rechargeable batteries, higher charge rates work the cells harder. The higher rates don't appear to have any positive effect on performance, so stick to the lower rates; 3 to 5 amps is best.
2. Which type of charger should I use?
Almost any style of peak charger can be used to charge NiMH batteries, but caution must be exercised when using less sophisticated peak-detection chargers not specifically designed for NiMH batteries. Voltage peak chargers are designed to look for a certain voltage drop to indicate that a pack has reached maximum capacity. Ni-Cd batteries exhibit a greater voltage fluctuation during the charge cycle and a more noticeable voltage drop at the end of it. Chargers originally designed for charging Ni-Cd packs look for a comparatively pronounced voltage drop before they shut off the charger. NiMH batteries are more stable while being charged and demonstrate less voltage drop when full capacity has been reached. This makes it harder for a Ni-Cd-type battery charger to know when a NiMH pack has peaked. As a result, some of the less expensive, non-adjustable voltage peak chargers will over-charge a NiMH pack.
3. I only have a mechanical timed charger.
Can I use it to safely charge NiMH packs? Yes, but use caution. Continuously monitor the pack's voltage with a voltmeter to determine when it's approaching a full charge, and vigilantly check its temperature. As soon as the pack starts to get hot (this happens rather quickly as it reaches maximum charge), remove it from the charger. It's a good idea to monitor the pack's temperature even if you do have a peak charger; as noted above, the charger can overcook your pack if it is "looking for" the deeper voltage drop of a Ni-Cd pack to indicate a full charge.
4. My charger has adjustable voltage peak detection; which setting should I use?
Chargers that have adjustable voltage peak detection should be set at 0.02 to 0.03 volt voltage drop (for the whole pack) before peak detection triggers and shuts off the charger. Jim has even tried setting his charger to 0.01 volt with good results, but he warns that such a low setting can lead to a "false peak."
Jim also reminded us that we should expect the NiMH batteries to be a little warmer than Ni-Cd cells when they've reached full capacity. When testing with a thermal peak-charger, Jim noticed Ni-Cds were at 35 to 37 degrees Celsius (95 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit) at full capacity, whereas the NiMH batteries were at 40 to 45 degrees C (104 to 113 degrees F). Keep in mind that this is the temperature as detected by the thermal probe, not by your hands. The actual temperature of the battery is likely to be a little higher. Thermal peak charging is a very useful alternative to voltage peak detection, as it simply looks for a significant change in pack temperature. It's an excellent charging method, though it would be wise to activate the maximum charge time function in chargers so equipped to act as a backup in case the thermal probe is accidentally separated from the battery pack.
5. Which charge mode should I use?
Many of the charge modes originally intended to increase the performance of Ni-Cd batteries are proving to be detrimental to NiMHs. Irrespective of the brand of charger, the results always appear to be better when the Panasonics are charged in a linear mode, meaning there is no programmed fluctuation in amp rates and/or polarity. The special charge modes don't seem to negatively impact run time, but the pack's voltage is slightly lower. Bottom line: use linear charge modes when using a charger that offers that choice (it's the default mode for most high-end peak chargers and the only mode available on lower-priced units).
6. Will trickle-charging help or hurt my NiMH cells?
Trickle-charging should be avoided when charging NiMH packs. Most chargers default into a trickle mode when fast charging has been completed. This mode was designed to keep Ni-Cd packs at their highest voltage until they were used, but it seems to have a "flattening" effect on the Panasonic cells. If your charger's trickle-mode can't be turned off, just be sure to disconnect the pack from the charger as soon as it's peaked.
7. Should I re-peak my pack before a race?
Yes. For maximum performance, have the pack "peak" minutes before a race, stuff it into your car and go racing. However, using this method leaves no margin of error for a false peak; a safer approach would be to start charging about 1 hour before a race. This will leave 40 to 45 minutes to charge the pack, and you'll have an extra 15 minutes or so to remedy a false peak, if you need to. If all is well, then you can simply re-peak the pack prior to placing your car on the track. The ideal is to avoid letting the pack sit in a state of full charge for longer than necessary.
8. How should I discharge a NiMH pack after a race?
NiMH batteries seem to be far less sensitive to post-race treatment than Ni-Cds are. Trinity team guys discharge their packs by running them out in the car or placing them in a discharge tray. Their routine varies according to when a pack will next be used. If it will be used within a week, Jim recommends that you take it down to 0.9 volt per cell, or 5.4 volts in a 6-cell pack. He also says the rate of discharge doesn't seem to impact pack performance. NiMH cells don't have the same memory characteristics as Ni-Cds, so it seems less important to follow strict discharge guidelines. By whichever means necessary, bring the pack down to 0.9 volt per cell, but no less. NiMH batteries don't respond well to being stored in a completely discharged state. If a pack is at a nearly zero discharge state and is put away for a week, it can easily bleed off the remaining charge and reach dead zero. If the pack is allowed to bottom out, it could be harmed.
If a tray is your chosen discharge method, the pack will have to be removed earlier than is typical with Ni-Cds. Remember, discharge trays designed for Ni-Cds will bring voltage well below what's considered safe for NiMH batteries.
9. What about long-term storage?
If the batteries are to be stored for more than two weeks, Jim says it's wise to charge them to at least 50 percent of capacity. All rechargeable batteries lose their charge if left unused for long periods—a condition we already know isn't ideal for NiMH batteries. For lengthy storage, it's best that packs have a significant level of charge. A note for those who use battery "bugs," or cutoff devices: if they're designed for use with Ni-Cd batteries, they will discharge a NiMH pack to below a safe level. Seek out a device that's intended to be used with NiMH packs. With all of the information already, it should go without saying—but I'll say it anyway—that you should never store packs with a dead-short lead.
10. Can I run a pack of NiMH batteries more than once a day?
Yes, in fact, it's recommended. After a week of being stored, a pack's first run will tend to be "flat," and it will develop more punch during its second and third runs. You simply need to let the pack cool completely before you recharge it. Even the Team Trinity drivers have run the packs two and three times during a day.

TIRE GLUING TIPS
Step 1.Prep the rims and tires
Before you slide those new tires onto the rims, take a few moments to make sure that the glue will stick to the tires and rims properly. With a piece of Scotch-Brite pad, scuff up the rim where the bead of the tire will go. If the rim is chrome plated, you will have to completely remove the chrome plating from the rim where the bead meets it, and this task will take extra time and effort. To remove any remaining dust caused by the Scotch-Brite's scuffing, wipe the bead area of the rim with a rag and some motor spray, denatured alcohol, or a degreaser. Removing the inserts from the tires will make it easier to clean them. Spray cleaner on another rag, and wipe down the inside bead of the tire. The tires are coated with a mold-release agent to free them from the mold after the manufacturing process has been completed, but if the agent isn't removed, it will prevent CA from sticking properly to the tire.
Step 2.Place the tire on the rim
When the rims and tires have dried, replace the inserts in the tires. If the inserts are the open-cell type, be careful not to bunch them up inside the tires. After the inserts have been installed, pull the tires onto the rims. Work each tire back and forth on the rim until the bead sits on the rim properly. A high spot on the bead will cause a high spot on the outside of the tire, and that will cause unwanted vibration.
Step 3. Apply glue
You can use one of two methods to glue your tires. The first is to use a tire fixture such as those sold by RPM and Tamiya. They both sell fixtures for sedan tires, and RPM also sells a larger one designed for off-road use. They work similarly—by pulling one of the beads of the tire away from the rim. Apply a light coating of glue around the bead, and release the pressure on the fixture to allow the tire to mate with the rim. A bit of glue oozing out from between the tire and rim is ok, but too much glue is not a good thing, as it can seep onto the inserts and ruin them. Use a napkin to wipe any excess glue off the face of the tire. When one side of the tire has dried, flip it over and glue the other bead. You can also glue your tires by hand. Hold a tire in one hand, use your thumb to pull the bead away from the rim, and apply a drop or two of glue. Rotate the tire and apply glue every 1/4 inch or so using the same technique as before. When the bead is coated with glue, use a few rubber bands to secure the tire to the rim until the glue has dried.

5 STEPS TO DE-SLOP AND SMOOTH OUT YOUR SUSPENSION
1.Strip and clean
Strip the car down to get to the suspension. Remove the body and tires, the shocks and even the tie rods. Next, clean the suspension parts with a toothbrush and compressed air. Get all the dirt out of the works. A good cleaning gives you the opportunity to look at all the parts of the suspension to make sure that nothing is cracked, bent, or worn out. Replace any parts that look questionable; it’s better to do it now than waste time at the track.
2.Check for free movement
Make sure that all the suspension arms move freely through their complete range of motion. The arms and uprights should drop under their own weight. Suspension arms that bind or don’t move properly can cause handling problems when you hit the track. But also make sure that they don’t move too freely: they should swing up and down easily but not have excessive free play on the hinge pins. If the arms wobble on the hinge pins, it’s generally best to replace them. If there is extra room on your hinge pin between the arm and the E-clip, it’s a good place to put a couple of motor washers. These washers can take up the slack so the arm won’t slide back and forth.
3.Free up Tight Hinge Pins
If the arms do not move freely, remove the hinge pins and check whether they need to be cleaned or replaced. Roll your hinge pin on a flat surface; if it wobbles, it’s obviously bent. Bent hinge pins will bind and won’t allow the suspension to move freely. Dirty or rusted pins can also cause hang-ups. Put a dab of metal polish on a rag, and use a rotary tool or a power drill to spin and polish the pin. Use the slowest setting, and be careful not to get the rag caught in the chuck of the tool.
4.Restore The ball-cup fit
Your vehicle’s ball cups should operate freely but with as little “slop” as possible. If your ball cups have a lot of play, they won’t be able to hold precise camber and toe settings. If that sounds like your car, it’s best just to replace the cups, but that isn’t the only fix. You can shim the cup by placing a piece of plastic bag over the ball and snapping the cup over it. Some bags are thicker than others, so you might have to experiment to get the perfect fit. Or you can slip an O-ring over the ball stud before you snap the ball cup onto it. Just make sure that the suspension still moves freely, as described in step 2.
5.Shock check
1. Excessive wetness around the seals means it’s time to rebuild.
2. Shaft should be shiny, not scuffed.
3. Is the shaft straight?
Remove the shock springs so you can get a good look at the seals and shafts. Obviously, a bent shaft should be replaced, but even a straight shaft should be replaced if it’s heavily scuffed. A shiny shaft seals better, wears the seals less and operates with less drag. Take a good look at the bottom of the shock; if it’s wet with fluid, the seals should be replaced. Last, compress the shock shaft. The piston should move smoothly throughout its travel range. If you feel any tight spots, check the shock body for dents, and have another look at the shaft to be sure it isn’t bent. If the shock seems to operate smoothly but you feel air bubbles in the fluid, pump the shock shaft. If the air emulsifies in the fluid, the shock will smooth out. If you still feel the bubbles in the piston stroke, it means there isn’t enough fluid in the shock. Refill the shocks with fresh fluid; don’t just top them off.

evst 360

01-28-2007, 07:49 PM

Crash7772

01-28-2007, 08:07 PM

cool. Thats alot of good info. I am guessing you mean a website or webpage with page. I cant wait to see it. The only thing I have to add would be a stronger diff gear, like one from a b2 buggy under top 10 things. :cool:

Not 100% sure if it will be a website, webpage, or link of some sort but I figured it's a good thing to have as there are many entry level people getting involved.

Oh.....That is a good mod but because it's so hard to find it didn't make the list. If the part becomes availble then I don't have a problem adding it.

vaderbxman

01-28-2007, 09:34 PM

If you wanted to, you could add the RPM Team Losi XX-T front bumper, and this antenna: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLB00&P=7

These fit in place of the fragile stocker white antenna. You have to sand the end a bit, but it works. I've been flipping my Evader since september, and have only broken one.

I like the wing idea alot. Nice thinking. I'd also like to know of any aftermarket bodies that fit with ease.

The B2 tranny fits in the Evader with major modification. I remember seeing it on RC universe at some point. (I don't remember)

miksnake

01-29-2007, 02:25 AM

TeamMishap

01-29-2007, 04:01 AM

1) If I take a car, any car (but let's just say Evader for sake of the forum), can I drop any old motor into it? Can, I just plunk a super high powered brushless into this car and have it work? I realize there are other parts that will likely have to be changed as well. So, the two questions are (a) what are the other parts (i.e. the ESC? Speed controller maybe? and (b) are there physical limitations to this kind of upgrade? Aren't all the motors pretty much standard in their mounting sizes, etc. so that they will physically fit? If so, what are the other limitations?

Any 540 sized motor should work. Just make sure it's turn count is higher than the stock ESC allows. I ran a 19T motor no problem, forever ago, and the stock ESC then only "allowed" a 21T motor

Brushless motors also work, but you'll need a BL specific ESC. The Lehner Basics and XLs work. Hacker B50s work too. I've ran both in the Evader, at the expense of a shredded tranny. Which can be hopped up to accommodate the insanity.

2a) as a side question, is the main difference between say a 1400 MaH battery pack and a 3000 MaH battery pack that you will get a slightly longer run time out of the 3000 pack (assuming they are both same manufacturer and type of battery)? Or does the 3000 MaH provide more juice to the motor and thus more speed/power?

You'll get more runtime for sure. Also, most of the higher mAh packs have much lower internal resistance, so you'll get more punch, as the electrons flow more freely. I really noticed a big difference jumping from a cheapo Duratrax Shark pack (1400 mAh, I think) to a self made 3300 pack made from loose (meaning not matched) GP3300 cells. Dean's connectors will decrease resistance too, but require some soldering work.

evst 360

01-29-2007, 02:18 PM

That's some good stuff there...thanks for all that; you may even want to start a free blog and just post it there permanently. There simple to do. Just checkout www.blogspot.com or some of the other ones.

The stuff I'm really trying to understand best are things such as these (and I'll post more as I go along):

1) If I take a car, any car (but let's just say Evader for sake of the forum), can I drop any old motor into it? Can, I just plunk a super high powered brushless into this car and have it work? I realize there are other parts that will likely have to be changed as well. So, the two questions are (a) what are the other parts (i.e. the ESC? Speed controller maybe? and (b) are there physical limitations to this kind of upgrade? Aren't all the motors pretty much standard in their mounting sizes, etc. so that they will physically fit? If so, what are the other limitations?

2) Can you just drop some LiPo batteries into any old car or does this upgrade also entail several other necessary changes. Most cars are running on the 7.2v battery packs and the LiPo's are much higher voltage as I understand. Does this effect the motor and the other electronics?

2a) as a side question, is the main difference between say a 1400 MaH battery pack and a 3000 MaH battery pack that you will get a slightly longer run time out of the 3000 pack (assuming they are both same manufacturer and type of battery)? Or does the 3000 MaH provide more juice to the motor and thus more speed/power?

I realize I still have a lot of reading and learning to do, but these kinds of questions never seem to be answered (they seem to be in the middle ground that doesn't get covered much between beginner basic questions and expert technical questions).
1. pretty much any RC motor will drop in and work physically. Depending on the turns of the motor, you may have to upgrade the esc. There are no other real physical limitations besides (in the case of the Evader) upgrading the drivetrain if necessary, but you may want to use deans plugs on the esc, batt, and motor to prevent melting.
2. A lipo designed to fit in a 1/10 rc will probably be 7.4v as opposed to 7.2v. As long as your esc can handle the extra voltage, you should see an increase in performance.
2a. A 3000 pack will give you twice the runtime of a 1400 pack, and more punch for it can deliver more amps. The higher the mah is, the longer your runtime is, and you will have more punch. If you are in the market for a battery, try to get one with a highest mah, and of good quality cells, like ib or gp. :cool:

RControl Freak

01-29-2007, 06:41 PM

vaderbxman

01-29-2007, 08:24 PM

That is doesn't fit? It should've been a direct bolt-on with no mods. I don't see why the bulks would be different (because they aren't) but, dang.

What exactly is making the bumper not go on? Suspension arms, hingepins, ect.?

RControl Freak

01-30-2007, 04:14 PM

i don't have the bumper, but I also don't have the ST, and I just wasn't sure if the bumper would fit, because knowing my luck, I'll go out and buy it, and it won't fit! :D

vaderbxman

01-30-2007, 07:52 PM

Oh, I thought you had it and it didn't fit lol. Yeah, it's a bolt-on that looks good.! :D

RControl Freak

01-30-2007, 08:46 PM

here's something sad: I still have my Evader under warrenty, and I'm to lazy to send in the parts for a replacement! :D

vaderbxman

01-31-2007, 07:21 AM

Yeah, it took me 2 months to send in that hub carrier I broke back in october. I only sent it in when my dad sent in his Engine to be serviced.

evst 360

01-31-2007, 03:01 PM

I broke my rear chassis plate a week after I got the car. I didn't send it in thinking I would do it later. Well, time is almost up and I have lost the part :rolleyes: :(

rigrishracer22B

02-01-2007, 09:00 PM

I have broken alot of my parts under warranty but I thought of it easier to order new parts..from towers

RControl Freak

02-01-2007, 09:09 PM

im looking to get a new motor, one that the 12t esc can handle, under 50 bucks. Right now, im looking at the orion formula sv2 with ball bearings 12t. Any others I should consider?

rigrishracer22B

02-01-2007, 09:16 PM

orion formula sv2's are good motors from what i have heard but I get the orion method sv2 motor..

vaderbxman

02-02-2007, 07:25 AM

If your getting the method, make sure to get it with the "R" so you can remove the endbell and service it.

Other than that, I haven't bought any other motor brand.

evst 360

02-02-2007, 01:41 PM

there is also a method r v2 out there right now, for a limited time according to Orion. There is not 12t one, but there are 11t's and 13t's. I got one of the method r v2's for xmas, and I hope to give it a real test today or tomorrow, as I have just fixed a hung brush that kept me from using it. If you are interested, I can give you an idea of the performance in my Evader. :cool:

Crash7772

02-02-2007, 03:34 PM

I've always like Trinity Speed Gems series motors myself.

RControl Freak

02-02-2007, 04:40 PM

Crash7772

02-03-2007, 12:43 AM

im interested, and I'll check out the trinity speed gems as well
I would look at this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNE5&P=7 or this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNE5&P=7 , http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVC2&P=7

My cousin is running this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLHR2&P=7 and it is very fast.

I have a D4 Trinity 9T single right now and it's very fast. I also have a Trinity Tony Neisinger quad (from my early days from the early 90's) that still runs strong plus a slot machine from the same era.

RControl Freak

02-03-2007, 08:56 AM

ill do some more research on them

vaderbxman

02-04-2007, 04:40 PM

Hey, speaking of motors, I got my 12-turn working again. All I had to do was replace the brushes because the old ones were shot. I just got back in from testing them, and it moves again (not as fast as before, but I credit that to a non-peaked battery and the brushes are new and haven't broken-in yet)

Other than that, it was awesome to see the ol' girl moving again! :D

RControl Freak

02-04-2007, 04:56 PM

motor = old girl?! that's a strange name for an electric motor! :confused: :huh:

vaderbxman

02-04-2007, 08:04 PM

meh.

I was refering to my car, but I guess it could double for the motor...

Lol. :D

miksnake

02-05-2007, 01:00 AM

I've gotten myself a few fairly old electric RCs and I'm trying to decide what to do with them. One is an Evader, I've also got an old Losi XXX and a an original HPI RS4. Anyway, the XXX is running, the others are in need of some assembly still.

Basically, at this point I don't have any battery packs (well, one not so great one). The Evader has a nice servo in it with metal gears, but stock ESC and receiver and no motor. The RS4 is in need of most gear.

So, I'm wondering a couple of things. First, when upgrading these things how can one tell if a motor is going to be too much for the transmission in the car?

Also, I'm debating whether it would be better to just go with a brushless motor and ESC in the Evader and LiPo batteries? As far as I know I wouldn't need to change the receiver nor the servo. I don't know if the transmission/drivetrain can handle it or not.

I'm really trying to maximize driving time, but the LiPos may be prohibitely expensive as I'd probalby still need 2-4 battery packs. My understanding is that they are more durable from a recharging standpoint though. Also, are they as dangerous as all the warnings make them sound (..."Always remove a Li-Po battery if model is involved in any kind of crash. Carefully inspect the battery and connectors for even the smallest damage."...)?

Any suggestions? Should I go LiPo? Should I go brushless? Or should I just buy a few NiCd battery packs and throw in an old motor that I've got to get the Evader running and have the Evader and XXX up and going and worry about the RS4 later on.

Thanks for the thoughts.

vaderbxman

02-05-2007, 05:28 PM

Welcome aboard!!

First and foremost, Do you have the money to spend on it?

If you do and decided to go brushless, The tranny doesn't need much upgrading to get it bulletproof.

First, get the aluminum idler gear (part number DTXC8081)and get the carbide diff balls (part number DTXC7352 and DTXC7441)

After assembling them, you've got a bombproof transmission.

To answer another question: If you want to be cheap and just drop a new motor in there, look at Team Orion (Get a motor with no less than 20 turns). I've bought 3 motors from them and have had all of them run stellar. If you really wanted to save money, go for the Method R motor. (part number 25115, and look at the motor)

It has an excellent life span and will fit in the motor turn limit of the stock ESC.

If you need to know anything else, or would like me to list a short list of mods I've done to mine to make it indestructable, just drop me a letter.

Glad to help! :D

miksnake

02-05-2007, 06:12 PM

Vaderbxman,

Thanks for the info; I'll look into the tranny upgrades and motors you mentioned.

I guess in the short-term, my biggest question is should I go with LiPo batteries or NiCd. Either way, I'm going to have to get a charger and a few battery packs, so not a minor investment. I figure I might as well make the best investment now. Any suggestions on which to go with? If you were starting today, would you go NiCd or LiPo?

Also, I'd love to see the upgrades you've made; I'll PM you my email, or you can just post them here if you'd like.

evst 360

02-05-2007, 06:18 PM

I guess in the short-term, my biggest question is should I go with LiPo batteries or NiCd. Either way, I'm going to have to get a charger and a few battery packs, so not a minor investment. I figure I might as well make the best investment now. Any suggestions on which to go with? If you were starting today, would you go NiCd or LiPo?
I would go nimh if I were you. Higher capacity and no memory effect. They dont cost much more, if any more. Duratrax makes some good chargers. Check out tower hobbies. They carry a good selection of DTX chargers. In the Scratch and Dent under flight line and track there are some good working chargers for less. O, and if you are upgrading your tranny, a b2 diff gear might be a good idea too, as the stockers are weak. :cool:

RControl Freak

02-05-2007, 07:22 PM

yeah, ill second the nimh idea. Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are MUCH better than a NiCad. True, they aren't as good as a Lipo, or the new LiIons, but they are by far the best value, but you need to make sure that your charger is capable of charging NiMH batteries! (Most are, nowadays!) Look for this logo, that is on the bottom left of the charger!

miksnake

02-05-2007, 08:26 PM

evst 360

02-05-2007, 08:36 PM

RControl Freak

02-05-2007, 09:45 PM

so NiMH over LiPo mostly because LiPo is too expensive? If they were the same price would you go with LiPo? I'm just trying to get an idea here. It seems that LiPo is the way of the future. So, I'm just wondering if it's better to just invest now. They also seem to be more resilient, is this true? How many times can you charge a NiMh in a day? I thought about 3 times was the Max.

Thanks again for helping a beginner.

Lipos are lighter than NiMh's, but, as he said, can be unstable. While it may be true that Lipo's are the things of the future, they are used mostly for hardcore racing, or just pure speed. Better to stick to the time tested NiMH's. (If you go NiMH, get your batteries at least 3000 mah and above, because you can pick up some good deals on dual 3000 mah batteries in a combo meant for dual battery vehicles, such as the Traxxas E-Maxx.)

As for the same price thing, I most likely wouldn't, because my friend went on a "how-fast-can I my Mini-T to go" rampage, and equipped it with a Mamba Comp X, as well as a Lipo..... and that thing is too powerful to control, and is a real hassle to charge, since you need to get a specialized charger to SAFELY charge a Lipo, and he just uses a dynamite charger like the cheap SOB that he is. I don't know about him, but I actually like to see my chassis intact after a crash! :D

vaderbxman

02-05-2007, 09:47 PM

I would go nimh if I were you. Higher capacity and no memory effect. They dont cost much more, if any more. Duratrax makes some good chargers. Check out tower hobbies. They carry a good selection of DTX chargers. In the Scratch and Dent under flight line and track there are some good working chargers for less. O, and if you are upgrading your tranny, a b2 diff gear might be a good idea too, as the stockers are weak. :cool:

What he said, basically.

Here's a top-ten list of things I've done to my Evader:

1.) I bought this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=7
It's a direct fit onto the front of the Evader. It helps with landing a jump on your nose by preventing it from digging-in too much (granted I still flip every now and then, but not as frequently)

2.) I just got this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGV0&P=7

It fits in the stock holder perfectly and it doesn't break as easially as the stiff Evader ones do. I do have to credit this one to RControl Freak because he discovered this first.

3.) I bought these eons ago for my Evader:
Holeshot: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFHL6&P=7
-These are good for dry-dusty conditions or blue-groove. I don't recommend these for bashing, because they have a limited life span

Dirt hawgs: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=ML
-These are strictly bashing tires, and don't provide any grip on packed tracks. however, they are great for concrete or grass, and last forever

Bow-ties: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX79&P=7
-This is a good all-around tire. I have a pair that's been in servicee since August of last year, and still gives pretty good traction. The blocks are a little worn, and the rim is about to let go, but they work just fine

4.) This isn't something you can get at Tower: Those little foam washers are going to break, tear, shread, and absorb all kinds of crap, and that's their job. you will have to replace all of these on a semi-annual basis (I've got 3 stock ones left that are trying to let go)
I went to the local craft store and got some foam of desired thickness. We then used some hole-punches to get the right shape, and they are 5 times sturdier.

5.) An old trick: Get a WD-40 pen and dab it on the servo-saver to ensure it works properly. It sounds like it would attract dirt, but it really doesn't get all that dirty.

6.) Your stock shocks are probably empty of oil by now because those little kids wherever this was made can't assemble shocks. i rebuilt all the shocks on mine with 5-W30 motor oil and haven't paid any attention to them since. You'll need a set of shock seals to complete this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK5&P=Z) to properly rebuild them

7.) You will probably shoot a driveshaft pin sooner or later. If you have the stock driveshafts (they look like 2 u-shapes with a rectangular piece in the middle), try using a small piece of a paperclip to save it. run the paperclip inside of the pin, and tie a knot on one end to save the pin when it does go. I don't know how long it'll be until that happens, but my first evader never lost a pin, while my dad lost 3 before he upgraded to CVD's, which brings me to the next mod.

8.) This has got to be one of the best upgrades. It has a greater range of motion through articulation, and holds onto the pin better. (however, use loc-tite and a bit of heat-shrink tubing to cover the pin and keep it in place)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSY9&P=ML

9.)Use a dap of WD-40 pen on all of the suspension articulations to get a smoother feel, or when it starts to squeak when you compress the shocks.

The WD-40 pen is your best friend. :D

10.)Switch out for deans ultra connectors. I hate those standard connectors (the big white ones) that overheat and rob you of power. Deans are almost no-loss connectors that enhance electrucal flow, and is one less thing to worry about

That's all I can think of for now, but I bet I can think of more.

Happy Evadering!

miksnake

02-06-2007, 02:11 AM

Wow, thanks for all the great info; this is all helping a ton.

RControl Freak, do you know any specifics on the battery packs that you mention (any links or brands)?

What are the brands to get or which should be avoided. While reading some older information Sanyo was the ticket. Are there still very good battery brands and poor battery brands or can I just get any 3000+ Mah battery pack and be good to go.

Anyone else care to share their Evader details? This is great stuff.

By the way, I found this article on rebuilding shocks that I will help guide me...just thought I'd share for others that are in the same boat as me and since we are talking about such things..http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/shocks/em-disassemble.asp).

Cheers again!!!

vaderbxman

02-06-2007, 07:47 AM

Make sure to empty your old shocks of all the old oil out of your old shocks and clean out all the seals and rods.

The stock bearings aer a little soft on the sides, and may lead to you accidentally denting one of them.

RControl Freak

02-06-2007, 04:31 PM

2.) I just got this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGV0&P=7

It fits in the stock holder perfectly and it doesn't break as easially as the stiff Evader ones do. I do have to credit this one to RControl Freak because he discovered this first.

.....and I'll return the favor of the crediting, by saying that the WD-40 PEN never occured to me.... but now that it has..... :D

evst 360

02-06-2007, 05:04 PM

What are the brands to get or which should be avoided. While reading some older information Sanyo was the ticket. Are there still very good battery brands and poor battery brands or can I just get any 3000+ Mah battery pack and be good to go.

Anyone else care to share their Evader details? This is great stuff.

check out maxamps.com (http://www.maxamps.com/index.html?lmd=38519.529109) for batteries. click on the 4.4k 4400 mah cells/packs link on the left hand side of the page. You can get some 4400 mah good quality packs for $40! if you search this forum (rcz) there are a lot of good things to say about them in various threads.

my evader details: havent done much to it due to time and money, but what I have done are listed below:
karbonite gear servo (stripped out two plastic gear ones)
new spur gear (stock one warped and is a pain to set the mesh with)
xrs 15t esc (stocker only goes down to 20t)
new motor (stocker sucks, but is good for bashing and the occasional neighbohood kid :D )
heatshrink around the u-joint to hold the pins in (the pins slide out way to easily; this was a must)
filled the shocks with 30 wt oil (better than the stock 20 wt, but 35wt may be better).
also some tranny upgrades may be in order very soon as the tranny just started to make some clicking noises after running with my new Method R v2 17t, which I will have the review of that here soon :D :cool:

vaderbxman

02-06-2007, 05:21 PM

.....and I'll return the favor of the crediting, by saying that the WD-40 PEN never occured to me.... but now that it has..... :D

Heh, I'm glad that I shared that then. It was an accident really. I accidentally overshot some WD-40 while working on my dad's car and it got on the shock mounting, making it quieter. It was like discovering electricity (without the pain)

new spur gear (stock one warped and is a pain to set the mesh with)

My stocker spur gear was grinded into teeth that was cutting into my pinion, in turn making it stick to the shaft by the acculmination of all that plastic dust. I had to destroy the old pinion to ge it off, so now I run robinsons pinion gears (I should probably get a robinson spur gear, but have no funds right now :D

RControl Freak

02-06-2007, 09:30 PM

so it didn't involve any key or kite, I presume? (lol) :D

vaderbxman

02-06-2007, 10:00 PM

Just a D'oh!!

:D

RControl Freak

02-07-2007, 08:15 AM

Now I've gotta buy new servos for my T-Maxx, and I'm eyeing that .18 TM that Tower is letting go for 130.....

vaderbxman

02-07-2007, 05:00 PM

Are you getting one of those JR servos, hitec, or a Futaba? I don't have any personal gripes over any of them, but I bet a hitec would geve more torque. The Futaba S3305 gives about 135-ish (I don't remember, but I have that servo in my Evader) but the others can give more torque.

On to to TM: A guy had that in his racee Revo a month ago and could almost pull wheelies with a loose slipper. He said the first time he took it out he stripped a spur gear because he had the slipper too tight. :D

RControl Freak

02-07-2007, 06:39 PM

I'm leaning towards Hitec, and the one I'm looking at will have 135 oz/in, with the new reciever pack that I'm gonna get. As for the TM, my friend put a .28 in a custom chassis, and bent it, and had to reinforce it, and I'm confident, that with the right engine, I can beat him is straight line speed, 'cause he can't even get that thing to shift! (I already told you about the Picco that I'm also checking out!)

vaderbxman

02-07-2007, 08:03 PM

Yeah, I remember that. Hard to choose, though. My dad's used only Royal and O.S. and has had outstanding performance (royal being a plane engine manufacture, and He has an .18 in his Evader now that's indestructable).

RControl Freak

02-07-2007, 09:24 PM

yeah, its kinda sad, actually. This thing has been sitting in my basement for the past 3 months, torn apart, and now that I've got the money, I'm gonna fix it up. (The old motor still has some life, and if I run it down, then my parents will support me buying a new one, which is always good!)

Now that I think about it, that TRX 2.5 was quite a performer, it made that T-Maxx pull wheelies (when it was new), and that really makes me wonder what on earth is going to happen when I step up from 1.2 HP to 2.5, if I get the Picco! :eek: :D

vaderbxman

02-08-2007, 07:28 AM

Well, it might do a complete backflip! :D

If you don't have the wheele bar, you'll be on your lid more than on your tires...........;)

RControl Freak

02-08-2007, 06:11 PM

sounds good to me! :D

vaderbxman

02-10-2007, 09:28 AM

Hey did any of you guys look at the Vendetta ST? Man, that thing looks slick. I might have to squezze that in with my summer job.....

EDIT: Oh, hey look! We broke 100 pages, w00t!

RControl Freak

02-10-2007, 01:52 PM

vendetta ST? how much is it going for?

vaderbxman

02-10-2007, 05:06 PM

I think it starts out at 169.99 (all 6 bodies are listed on tower right now, along with pricing), but knowing Tower Hobbies, they'll have rebates and stuff to lower it to around what the original vendetta is going for (about 150 now)

I've seen a video of it on the website, and it looks like it's a little more stable than my bro's vendetta, and it's got the coolest looking wheels ever! (the optional wheels are simulated carbon fiber!!)

vaderbxman

02-11-2007, 10:28 AM

Hey, does anyone want to see the movie i put together of My family's cars racing around? I don't have a way of posting it to the internet, but I bet I could send it in an e-mail. PM me if your interested...........

It's about 3:20 seconds long, driving to breaking benjamin's Diary of Jane. It's pretty cool!

rigrishracer22B

02-11-2007, 07:34 PM

Yeah send that vid to me Vader :wave:

vaderbxman

02-11-2007, 07:59 PM

Will do. If you have a way, post it to the internet. It's about 20 Meg, so it might take a little while via E-mail. I'll try to winzip it for you. Check your PM.

evst 360

02-11-2007, 08:15 PM

I'm in :D i'll PM you my email addy.

vaderbxman

02-11-2007, 08:27 PM

Ok, I'll check my PM in a bit. I can't get the winzip to work, so I might just have to send the whole thing.

Crash7772

02-11-2007, 09:06 PM

Ok, I'll check my PM in a bit. I can't get the winzip to work, so I might just have to send the whole thing.

Try using zippyvideos.com (free site) to post your video then add the link in here.

vaderbxman

02-11-2007, 09:24 PM

I'm sitting at 54% right now and transferring at 54 k per second (I think it's the servers fault its slow, so bear with me)

I'll re-post when it finishes.

EDIT: My video is too large, and I have it set at it's smallest resolution. Thanks for the idea, but its just too big (by 1.4 meg, that pisses me off.......)

vaderbxman

02-13-2007, 07:14 AM

IT'S UP!!! Check out this URL: http://youtube.com/watch?v=VihJ6HpVmYk

I take no credit for the video effects, but let me kno what you thought about it, and if you liked the stunt towards the end...........

evst 360

02-21-2007, 02:27 AM

im interested, and I'll check out the trinity speed gems as well
hey sorry about the long wait. The method r v2 17t performs similar to my Orion Element. It has a good amount of low-end torque, and ok to good top speed. I had some brush problems at first, but a little brush up-and-down movement solved that. It seemed to get a little warmer than I expected, so I geared it lower and that accounts for the lower top speed. Now I did test it with some not-the-best-quality 3300 batteries, so a good set of ib's or gp's will give it more power and top speed. :cool:

vaderbxman

02-24-2007, 03:42 PM

I've got a set-up question to ask. I've got my evader nailed on tire set-up and shock oil selection, but I need to fix one more thing. When I get off the gas to turn, the car pushes initially, then goes to a neutral feeling, then becomes slightly loose when I get back on the gas to leave the corner. My question is that I think I need to add a little toe-out to the fronts to help them corner well. I can sacrifice some corner exit speed because I've got a little too much and begin to fishtail.

Overall, I'm glad I got those holeshots andthat 12T motor that I've finally figured out.

Thanks for the help!!!

elecracr

02-25-2007, 09:25 PM

Im not really sure, but i think if you add front toe-out and increase the rear anti squat it may help. Increasing the anti-squat effectively makes the rear end more loose when entering a turn and makes the car more stable leaving the turn... You may just want to try the anti-squat first.
Hope this helps, if not, you may just need to steady out your trigger finger.

vaderbxman

02-26-2007, 07:18 AM

Yeah, I've gotten a little ahead of myself with my finger and the gas. I'll defineatly put in those washers for the the anti-squat before I go to the track sasturday and I'll share what happened.

Thanks! :D

elecracr

02-26-2007, 10:21 AM

Sounds good, hope it settles the car out a little bit.

vaderbxman

02-26-2007, 07:05 PM

Me too! :D

I'm gonna rebuild a shock later this week because it exploded after landing a jump, but I should be good to go.

Remember when I had trouble with the pin in my truck breaking and I didn't have a replacement, so I used a nail? That nail is still holding up.....

elecracr

02-27-2007, 12:29 AM

When used to run the universal joints I also used a small nail at one point when i didnt have any pins. I also have used a safety clip wrapped around it at the track for a race or two one day, it surprisingly held up ok.

vaderbxman

02-27-2007, 07:58 PM

I might use that as a tip for the magazine if no one else has mentioned it! :D

rigrishracer22B

03-01-2007, 09:08 PM

A trimmed up body clip will work also just use the straight part and put it through the dogbone hole and bend the sides over.

vaderbxman

03-02-2007, 07:17 AM

That's even better, because that's easier to obtain.

On a lighter subject, the heavy storms that went through yesterday didn't harm me, but some were killed in a high school that wasn't evacuated fast enough and some were killed in a trailer park. That's sad, because both are less than an hour away from here.

rigrishracer22B

03-02-2007, 04:42 PM

wow that is sad to hear :(

P.S I dont watch the news much

vaderbxman

03-02-2007, 05:03 PM

I'm alright, but I wish I could say the same for some.....

I'm gonna rebuild yet another shock later this week because they keep failing. What should I do differently. I'm replacing both seals and cleaning everything out, yet my front shocks last about 2 and a half months before needing attention. How???

elecracr

03-03-2007, 03:34 PM

Im not sure what can make them last longer. Are you making sure you wait and let all the air bubbles out of the shock oil. Also, make sure that your shock shafts do not have any scratches where they will not seal up properly.

My brushless system went out, i guess its gunna be brushed for a few weeks untill i get my speed control back.

vaderbxman

03-03-2007, 05:00 PM

Yeah all the bubbles are gone when I screw the top down. I went to take off the top of the shock today and the top half of the seals "fell-off" the main body and had destroyed the O-ring. I inspected everything and the rest was in good shape, so I slapped-it back together.

By the way, is a 90-tooth spur gear and a 15T pinion gear an OK ratio for a 12T motor? I put a 90T spur in my evader and now have really good acceleration. Will that come back later to bite me in the butt?