Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[orbitron]

Umm. MORE!! What did you do to that thing??

[1tuffRC10]

If anyone wants to take some rear toe out of their truck, I've found a way. Duratrax lists a kit to do so but it's not out yet. AE GT rear carriers will fit. Use Nitro Evader CVD's with GT axles. Only thing I don't like about it is the camber link rubs the springs a little. Next race is on the 20th so I'll let you know if it was too loose then.

[1tuffRC10]

It got quiet in here. Everyone frozen?:confused:

[Hyper7Pro]

yes actually it is 28 degrees outside but hardly any snow! :( i need a servo for my evader.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Dammit.I broke the rear A-arms.O well.Just a few weeks before I can run it again:( .

[yeti]

Hi guys,
I've put a new Savage body on my Evader, do you like it ?

Yeti

[pudder]

That looks really good!

[geo8498]

Just put a Kimbrough 21 pinion on my Evader. I was going to switch to a new spur gear, but wasn't sure what to get. From what I understand, stock is 88 tooth. Only thing LHS had was the 88 and and I think an 80 or 84. It simply looked too small. so I just got the pinion and thought I'd go from there. Anyone recommend a spur gear? I'm running a speed gems acronite 19 turn.

[yeti]

I'm also driving an 21 pinion on the standard 88 spur without problems, even with the monster masher tires and the standard photon 20turns motor ! Acceleration is still quite good.


If you want more torque but less speed, remember that mounting a spur with more teeth will be difficult since there's not much space left under the transparent 'spur-guard'.

Oh, and don't forget to lock-tite the small hex bolt of the pinion. Otherwise it could shift and locked. In the past I've had severe problems with my E-maxx, of which I could not get the pinion off anymore after it was shifted ...

[pudder]

Pinions are just more practical to change than spurs. :)

[geo8498]

sounds like i made a good choice then. thanks

anyone know if graphite parts are out as aftermarket?

[pudder]

I'd imagine they would be soon if not now. Check out towerhobbies.

[yeti]

I watched Towers but still nothing on graphite parts.

By the way, I wonder how all your Evader trucks look like.
Mabe it would be nice to sent current pictures of your truck to this site or maybe even to Rodneys site (if it's ok to you Rodney, give your email ?)

Yeti

[1tuffRC10]

geo, a lot of XXT parts will work on the Evader. Maybe there is some of them in graphite.

BTW Tried out the Evader with 1.5 total toe in the rear. It's much faster and still handles well.

[orbitron]

i'm down with putting up pictures of peoples trucks. Check out my website at http://www.orbitracing.tk and click on the cell phone on the dash navigation panel that will email me. Or if you're too lazy to do that it's contact@orbitracing.tk
I'll update today with Yeti's monster truck.

[geo8498]

My Evader with a Bolink 33 Willy's body fitted.

[The_In_Kid]

this pin keeps trying to come out

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid93/pecb46471212a1c65e875effa8ff6e5ad/fa3c94b0.jpg

i've stuck stupid electrical tape.... i heat shrink wrapped the damn thing but the pin still comes out...


what have you guys done to solve this issue?

i had heatshrink on them but this one just keeps breaking through it...

[1tuffRC10]

kid, get a set of Nitro Evader CVD axels. They will fit without mods and the pins in them have set screws to hold them in.

[Hyper7Pro]

would mip shiny cvd's for a xxt work?
by the way i found another idea to hold the receiver in, cut off a piece of the lip so your receiver will fit
next drill a small hole in the side of the chassis and put your receiver on and lop a zip tie through the hole and pull it tight.
my evader has a trinity paradox stock motor, gp 2400 7cell matched side x side pack, jr xr2 radio, and a jr z250 servo

[Wizardman_1]

i used thread lock on my drive pins and it helped mine, but my evader is pretty new so im not sure if it will help you guys

[rcguy2477]

Mine dont come out, but you might want to try jb weld. But if you use that, they arnt comming out.

[microrcdude]

Double up on the heat shrink. Some people around here do.

[guver]

If the pins are original length then you can squeeze bothe ends flat with pliers too. Helps to keep them from pulling thru a little bit.

[BdB390]

Hey guys, I was wondering about "jacking-up" my Evader. I use mine for backyard bashing and sometimes it gets a little extreme for the stock ground clearence. I was wondering about putting longer shocks on it, which would be pretty easy but the a-arms are pretty close to there limit as they are stock. I kinda want to do like what yeti did with the masher tires, that looks like enough ground clearence. If I do put on bigger tires should I change the gearing or anything else? Also my motor took a dump and was looking at a new one, especially brushless. If I do get a brushless engine will I need a new ESC? And even so what do you guys suggest? Im looking for longer run times and equal to better performance than stock.....

Any input would be great and thanks.


BdB

[RCA14]

Hey guys,
As hardcoredriver said he is getting a D5 10t motor.
I'm also thinking about getting the same motor but i cant decide between a D5 or a D6. The D6 is a little more expensive but i dont even know the difference between the two. i'm pretty new to this hobby so i was also wandering what is the difference between a single wind motor and a double wind motor.
later

[Mattman]

BDB390: If you're going brushless you'll probably need to bulletproof your tranny as higher turn motors tend to strip/shatter the plastic idler gear. Duratrax is apparantly making an aluminum idler gear for the Evaders and can be found listed at Towerhobbies here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZP0&P=7). I don't know when it'll be available though.

[RCA14]

oops sorry guys i didnt mean what is the difference of single and double wind.
i meant which do you think is better? i'm thinking about getting the double wind.
p.s. what size pinion should i get? and does anyone know how to get any graphite parts like the ones in the pro series evader?
Thanks

[pudder]

The difference between double and single winds is how many wires are wrapped around the armature. For Example, a 15 turn single would have 1 wire wrapped around the armature 15 times. A 15 turn double would have 2 smaller gauge wires wrapped around the armature 15 times, and so on.

For performance wise, lower winds (single) will spool up (accelerate) quicker than a double which will spool up slower, but yet have a higher top speed.

So basically you will get a little more acceleration with a single wind than with a double.

[BdB390]

I was thinking of a Team Orion 19 turn double wound Havok motor..know anything about them?

[pudder]

I dont know much about Orion motors. I know that Trinity and Reedy make good motors. They also make 19 turn motors too.

[BdB390]

I was looking at the following tires for my evader: Imex truck pull tires, Masher, and Masher 2000 tires. I wanna kno which is the tallest tire because most ground clearence is my final goal. There all very beefy so traction shouldnt be a problem. Im getting an Orian Havock 19x2 Motor to replace my stock fried one.

[pudder]

I think the masher 2000 are biggest

[*Supreme Losi*]

Well,I'll miss you annoying yet helpful people.I got an Evader BX for Christmas and my ST is in pieces,waiting to be fixed.

[rcguy2477]

if you want to upgrade to brushless, you dont have to get all the expensive upgrades for the tranny. I have the novak ss and I raced it in the summer. It did break parts, but not in the tranny. With the brushless, i slammed into a basketball pole and bent the jep braces up, and broke 5 other parts.

[BdB390]

Im gonna get masher 2000's all the way around and a Havok 19 turn motor double wound...what gearing changes should i do? any suggestions are good. I havent really figured out gearing yet.....

[pudder]

Get lots of pinions. To the max.

[BdB390]

different sizes just to try?

[pudder]

Yes, buy lots of pinions. Its good to have like from 15-22 :)

[BdB390]

thats a little overkill isnt it?

[pudder]

No. If you want to be a pro, you have to take stuff to the max.
:rolleyes:

[BdB390]

i dont want to be a pro, i want good performance with big tires :D

i just wanna kno if i should go up or down with the pinion gear, the masher 2000's will have a lot more rotating mass (obviously)

[pudder]

Gear down maybe 2-3 teeth.

[Hyper7Pro]

lol pudder, that would be a sight! post a pic of pudder on here! like a newer one

[pudder]

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06502.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06490.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06149.JPG

[Hyper7Pro]

BEHOLD ONE AND ALL; THE INFAMOUS PUDDER LIVES!
thats the coolest cat in the world

[rcguy2477]

did pudder have a little trouble putting on the lipstick?

[pudder]

That's what he gets for passing out after drinking too much. ;)

Um, I just went up to him and put on some sort of make up crap I found in a drawer when he was sleeping.

[BdB390]

Poor cat....but my evaders getting a nice treatment, enw mahser 2000's a Havok 19 turn motor, some bolts and screws, and a 15 T and 16 T pinion. This things gonna be a lot more fun playing off-road :D

[TeamMishap]

I think the lipstick came from Puds lips, not straight from the lipstick stick. hahahaha.

[BdB390]

Have any of you guys seen the new Evader ST PRO?? Its all graphite, real neat. Its at tower, but not for sale yet....id post a link but im too lazy so you have to find it yourself :D

[yeti]

yo Bdb,
what the hell means Bdb anyway ?!
I think the 19 turns is a good choice for you, In that way you still have descent driving time. You could choose a 10turn motor but I guess you only have 5 or 6 minutes of driving time I way to less for bashing around.
I drive know with a 19turns team orion rush, they're soooo cheap (only 15.99 @ tower !) Pinion should'nt be a problem either, just change 1 or 2 teeth down.
yeti

[BdB390]

Actually BdB is a shortened name for BoonDockBasher, which is my ATV Connection screenname and my instant messenger names....kind of a long story. My dad told me to go down more than 1 or 2 and suggested a 15 or 16 teeth pinion, which is quite a bit...and hes not even in RC, but hes a complete and total gear head...id rather go down a little too much than not enough I guess. Itll just have a little more accel. now which is never a bad thing by all means :D

[rcguy2477]

no, you dont have to go down to a 15t pinion. Thats what i ran with 13-15t's. Get a set of pinions and test them out. I myself have a set from 12-29t and for some of them i have three or two of each.

[BdB390]

Remeber im running Masher 2000's which are considerably bigger than stock, and thats about right 2-3 teeth down...ill try out both and report back when i get my stuff from tower...

[pudder]

Happy drunk new year drun kber beeeeeer :D

[snacky]

:confused: :confused: :confused: What the f%&@ am I doing wrong I have 2 evaders that I got from ebay that I can't get to run. I have a intellispeed 12t,16t a blast and a sprint ESC I have brand new speed gem pro titanite 15t,amber 17t and a p2k pro,photon my problem is I'm new to this and I can't get the motors to run I hook everything but only the servos work I pull the triggers and get nothing i've tried every radio,motor,ESC combo I have and still nothing I have duratrax AM and hitec FM radio I've tied setting up the ESC like the instructions say but they won't some parts are new some used I just can't them all being bad SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME! :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[orbitron]

Try switching the steering channel with the throttle channel from your receiver, then steer to accelerate (and accelerate to steer). If that works you know it's either your transmitter or your receiver not the escs or motors.

[guver]

Do the lites work on the esc's when turned on or when you pull the throttle trigger?

[snacky]

Orbitron: is it safe to switch them since the throttle plug is also the battery plug?

Guver: the light on the intellispeeds comes on with the power but the others I get no light they all do the same thing the servos steer but I get nothing from the motors I've checked the batteries with a voltmeter I got juice


I JUST DON'T KNOW?:confused: :confused: :confused:

[guver]

Could it be a rx problem? only on channel 2?

[Wizardman_1]

Your reciever should be working because it is getting juice from the ESC to power the steering servo. That means the esc's are good also because they are giving power to the reciever. have you tried hooking up the motors directly to a battery to see if they spin. Are you sure the ESC is in channel 2 and steering on 1. Maybe the plugs from the esc to the motor are backwards? If you're using the sprint ESC its kinda weird cause you have to set it up strange, same thing happened to me, steering worked but motor didnt. I just put the transmiter to full throttle for a while and finally the wheels started spinning after a while. You should try going to your LHS also. Hope i helped

[snacky]

:) Thanks guys it was just a matter of the plugs in the wrong place. Thank u ORBITRON-GUVER-WIZARDMAN_1

[guver]

Sounds good a cheap fix. Sounds like you got a good buy. Happy racin' bashin'

[1tuffRC10]

Does anyone know where to get a aluminum idler for the Evader? GP says they won't be off backorder till late Feb.:confused:

[snacky]

:confused: Does anybody know how to turn off the reverse lockout on a intellispeed 12t ESC I got it used with lockout on I tried to set the reverse delay but nothing happens

[orbitron]

i got an intellispeed 16t at home here and i got to go to school right away but after school i'll post the instructions.

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Does anyone know where to get a aluminum idler for the Evader? GP says they won't be off backorder till late Feb.:confused:

Racer22 fabricates a nice aluminum idler. He's just an RC enthusiast, but his work is outstanding. I'll be darned if I can find his email address though. Sorry.

[orbitron]

Snacky - Scan to OCR is so nice

A time delay can be set for changing the direction of motor travel from forward to reverse. This delay helps to prevent damage to gear assemblies that result from slamming the motor from high speed forward movement directly to reverse. The reverse direction control for this ESC can also be comple disabled or "locked-out." Many races require ESCs he used which do not h reverse function.

Follow these steps to set reverse delay or reverse lockout;
1) With the Tx throttle in the neutral position, press and hold the ESC's pushbutton for 5 seconds. The green and red LEDs will flash.
2) Release the pushbutton, and choose from one of two reverse time delay or reverse lockout as follows:
a. After one second the green and red LED will blink ONCE. Press and release the pushbutton at this time to set a delay of 0.3 seconds. This is often the desirable delay for normal race tracks.
b. After two seconds, the green and red LED will blink TWICE. Press and release the pushbutton at this time to set a delay of 0.8 seconds.
c. After three seconds the green and red LED will blink THREE times. Press and release the pushbutton at this time to completely lockout or shut off reverse.

[thefatkid]

hey guys i just got an evader for christmas and i enjoy it a lot. i was driving it around the night before i came back to laramie wyoming and i hit something and broke a couples steering gears. i was wondering if anyone knew the part number for the gears cause i can't find them on the repair or parts sheet. oh well i hope to have it fixed in the next week or so, so i will have to stay on the board.





kevin

[pudder]

Just order a gear set for Futaba S3003 servo Its the same thing.

[BdB390]

I got all the stuff I ordered in from tower (finally, damn fedex) and put it all together...the mashers are really nice and I like the look and ground clearence they give. I sno-proofed my truck and will put up a pick or two, its kind of cob jobby but it worked for the 6 minutes I ran it...no water near the ESC or the reciever. I wrapped the reciever in a rubber glove and duct tape cus i dont have a ballon. The ESC is in a tupperware dish i taped to the battery strap and all is good so far.

[BdB390]

Yes the body does fit :D
Sorry for the quality the camera is smaller than the palm of my hand, but ill be getting a real one soon

[sddavis29]

where did you get those tires. also has anyone had a problem with the slipper clutch. i ran mine about 3 battery packs and now when i hit the throttle the motor and spur gear turn but not the wheels. also does anyone know where i can get some better looking wheels like chrome spoke wheels.

[Preston]

sddavis29,

You problem is not the slipper. It's most likley the ball diff. You must tighten it up, and your problem will go away. watch the video to see how to do this.

[orbitron]

RPM makes rims that fit. They are very nice as well. Actually any rim thats designed for the losi XX-t or XXX-t will fit.

[sddavis29]

hey preston i did that but it didnt work i changed slipper pads and that helped a little but not much. you think maybe in the trans

[guver]

If you hold wheels and spin motor see if the slipper shaft is spinning. If it is then problem in diff . If it's not spinning then it's the slipper slipping too much.

[sddavis29]

anybody had a problem with there evaders esc i turn it on the steering works but the no trottle

[pudder]

About the Rims, HPI also makes some nice rims that fit.

[Preston]

I still think you problem may be in the diff. Did you tighten it down good? I made mine tighther than the manual says, basically I went as tight as I thought I could without stripping anything. You may need to remove the diff entirely to get it as tight as it needs to be to solve the problem.

As for the ESC, you must wait a second or two after you turn it on before you move the trigger or else it will screw it up, try resetting it.

[pudder]

You may have a hung brush if it is set right and stuff.

[thefatkid]

when went in and ordered the parts that i need so i should be back up and running by next week.:D



kevin

[TeamMishap]

Got my Stars and Bars Evader in the March 04 issue of RC Driver. Wish I'd have known, because I would have held off Ebaying it until after publication.

[rcguy2477]

That must suck. I didnt notice it the first time i went through the mag, so i will go check it out.

[rcguy2477]

Do you know what page it is on? I looked in the readers ride section of the march 2004 mag and i didnt find it.

[sddavis29]

hey does anyone know what i can do to keep my evader from nose diving on a jump cause if it jumps high it flips onto its top and breaks stuff like shock towers
also does anyone know where i can get a aluminum chassis and aluminum rear chassis plate

[rcguy2477]

To make sure your evader doesnt nosedive, keep on the throttle while in the air. If that doesnt work, remove the foam block from the rear part of the battery tray, and put it in the front of the battery tray. This will put more weight in the rear of the truck.

Orbitron- i saw your truck in rc driver, how much did that body sell for?

[pudder]

To keep your truck level in the air make sure to stay on the throttle while hitting the ramp, and following through with the jump.

There are no aluminum chassis or rear chassis plate available.

[orbitron]

Originally posted by rcguy2477
Orbitron- i saw your truck in rc driver, how much did that body sell for?

Not me... It was Mishap.:D

[TeamMishap]

The body sold for $35 shipped.

I said nothing about aluminum chassis, but somehow an aluminum chassis was bestowed upon it in the magazine. I told them I had aluminum knuckle arms and hub carriers. I guess they took a little poetic license with that. Probably makes me look like a schmuck, because everyone knows there isn't an alum chassis for the Evader.

[juststout]

hey guys im new here i just got my evader wensday so far i really like it

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by juststout
hey guys im new here i just got my evader wensday so far i really like it

congrats... evader is a great truck... but soon after the brushes on ur motor will be pooched.... they just dont lasy :(

[juststout]

:mad: :mad: :mad: i think my motor already to a poo:( :( :( :(

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by juststout
:mad: :mad: :mad: i think my motor already to a poo:( :( :( :(

check ur brushes then... if they r shot pick up sum new ones... i dont no what would be good to run ask sum ppl here

[TeamMishap]

I wouldn't futz with the brushes on the factory motor. Go out and get a nice stock class (P2K2, etc.) motor. I ran a 19T Chameleon before I went brushless. 19T is lower than the factory ESC suggests, but myself and many others on here run/ran a 19T motor without problems.

Believe me, put a new motor on your Evader and you'll wonder why you ever messed with the factory one.

[Mattman]

After a run-in with a T-maxx on an icey road I had been waiting a long time for new parts to arrive. I decided to take this time to make a lighting mod that's for the most part functional for my Evader. Here's the finished product:

http://www.mts.net/~bowditch/RCing/HIDs.jpg

More info on the project can be found here (http://www.anti-logic.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29&start=45). Just look at the 10th post on that page.

[TeamMishap]

Those lights are SWEET!

[pudder]

Looks good. :)

[rcguy2477]

replace that bumper!!! It is irritating me:D

[Mattman]

Originally posted by rcguy2477
replace that bumper!!! It is irritating me:D
He he...the replacement one is on its way. :) The lights look quite ugly when they're off because of the glue but I'm workng on a much cleaner way of keeping them in place.

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by Mattman
He he...the replacement one is on its way. :) The lights look quite ugly when they're off because of the glue but I'm workng on a much cleaner way of keeping them in place.

duct tape :D

[sddavis29]

hey does anyone know where i can get an aluminum bumper for my evader. also is any company selling parts for the pro version i would like to get a graphite chassis

[guver]

I have one of these jep's

http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

[rcguy2477]

From what i know, jeprc is no longer in buisness. I have tried ordering stuff multiple times with no response. I have also tried to email him, but there is also no response there.

[The_In_Kid]

http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxd27-sell-sheet.pdf

anyone know if the aluminum rear plate will fit the regular or is prettty much all evader ST And pro parts compatible

[1tuffRC10]

Well, they are advertising the rear toe kit but there isn't a part no. listed for it yet. The pro version is supposed to come with it. Dtrax can't give a number for it yet, I called. Anyone got any ideas.

That engine plate should work on the old RTR Evader.

[rcguy2477]

Judging from the pictures of the back plate, it looks like it will fit the regular evader. I should know because i have replaced that part far to many times.

[TeamMishap]

Evader Graphite Parts
DTXC9563 Graphite Rear Arms
9561 Graphite Front Arms
8971 Graphite Servo Brace
6297 Graphite Battery Strap
6606 Graphite Front Brace
9256 Graphite Front Shock Tower
9258 Graphite Rear Shock Tower
6999 Graphite Chassis
9642 Graphite Transmission Brace
8073 Graphite Rear Hub Set
8034 Graphite Front Hub Carrier Set
8226 Graphite Front Knuckle Arms

New Aluminum
7017 Alumin. Rear Chassis Plate

Haven't found them listed for sale yet.

[vader]

Hello just saying hi. I have a vade in the mail and had a few questions before it arrived.

I know the RPM losi bumper fits the vader do any of the other parts fit, like the 2stage pistons, XX front arms and rims.

I got some pretty big plans for the vader so I hope I can contribute

[ayk_driver]

XX shock towers fit the evader as well

[RaceDog]

Just found this forum, so I'm a first-time poster. What hop-ups are recommended for racing? I'm looking at the list of official hop-ups for the Evader ST on the Duratrax web site. I'm thinking about the Aluminum front bulkhead, rear tranny brace, and front hinge pin brace. Any other hop-ups that are recommended?

[The_In_Kid]

Originally posted by RaceDog
Just found this forum, so I'm a first-time poster. What hop-ups are recommended for racing? I'm looking at the list of official hop-ups for the Evader ST on the Duratrax web site. I'm thinking about the Aluminum front bulkhead, rear tranny brace, and front hinge pin brace. Any other hop-ups that are recommended?


yep everything you posted is recommended...

the worst is the rear chassis plate for breakage and the front hinge pin brace...

the pro comes with the rear aluminum chassis plate
and now were trying to get our hands on it...

other then that i highly recommend some new rear tires...

right now i'm using some team orion tires and they are just simply amazing :)

don't forget you'll need a onroad set for park/street driving

[philp37]

Originally posted by RaceDog
Just found this forum, so I'm a first-time poster. What hop-ups are recommended for racing? I'm looking at the list of official hop-ups for the Evader ST on the Duratrax web site. I'm thinking about the Aluminum front bulkhead, rear tranny brace, and front hinge pin brace. Any other hop-ups that are recommended?

I recomend the front brace and all the parts built by JepRC for the Evader. As well, watch for the graphite replacement parts that will be available from the Evader Pro.

[RaceDog]

Hey, In_Kid - thanks for the advice. What on-road tires do you recommend? I've just about scrubbed my stock Duratrax tires smooth sliding around on the asphalt. Lots of fun, but I don't want to keep replacing the tires every couple of weeks. From what I've read of past posts here there are much better tires than the stock ones.

[rcguy2477]

For racing, trc foams, or road hawgs,
For playing, speed hawgs or road rages

[The_In_Kid]

i was using road rage tires they weren't that bad... if you can find something with a softer stickier compound you should be set :)

[juststout]

i checked the brushes i guess they were shorting out or somethign they were touching so i seperated em and it goes now

[corvettekilla18]

Check out my Emaxx powered Evader. It has an Emaxx tranny, axles, wheels, tires, diff, twin titan motors, EVX esc, shifting servo, airtronics MX-3 radio, and two 7cell 3000 Mah batts.

As you can see the body is in need of replacement. Any suggestions for the body or comments about my "EvaderMAXX"?
:D

[corvettekilla18]

more pics...

[corvettekilla18]

the rims are both RPM, front tires are proline dirt works, rear tires are stock MAXX's. A while ago, i took a jump, and the rear A-arms cracked. Fortunatly my cousin gave my two rear stampede arms, and with the work of a dremel, were a perfect fit!

[rcguy2477]

I am selling my evader, so if any of you guys want it, let me know. Check it out here..... http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1322851#post1322851

[philp37]

Tell us really... how does the evader-max handle???

Looks like it could bew a dog

[corvettekilla18]

It's a little top-heavy. but its pretty good. It pulls wheelies like crazy

[pudder]

Thats crazy man. Good work!

[corvettekilla18]

Thanks!!!:D

[corvettekilla18]

ANy body recommendations?

[orbitron]

Put a 190mm corvette on it. j/k
I think the PT cruiser would look good on it though.

http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/t_ptcruiser/pttempl.jpg

Obviously the tires would look even more out of proportion but better I think.

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by philp37
Tell us really... how does the evader-max handle???

Looks like it could bew a dog

i think u need brusless:D lol

[corvettekilla18]

LOL...Would a savage or Maxx body fit. I have adjustable body posts

[rcguy2477]

maxx bodies probably would not fit because maxx's are 1/8th scale, whereas the evader is 1/10 scale.

[corvettekilla18]

i guess im gonna put a regular ST truck body or a mini cooper.

[orbitron]

I put a mini cooper on my evader once. I really wrecked it this summer! If you want to see it check out my website by clicking the www button below.

[EvaderLXPro]

Hey im new to this forum but not new to R/C. I have had my evader for about 2 years. Not many hop ups just alumanum tranny brace, 12t intellispeed esc,graphite front and rear a-arms, a team losi XXT body.

[EvaderLXPro]

I had a question is it just me or does the Evader run loud, my friend has an rc10t3 and his is really quiet when he drives it compared to mine. Is there someting wrong with mine?:confused:

[pudder]

My evader was always louder than T3s.

[Maximillio1091]

ohh man i busted my evader today
i drivin in ma bakyard, not no serious stuff... so i took my ramp out. i never use my evader wen its got full battery cuz the nose comes down hard and flips over 3/4ths the time. anywayzz i probably had half battery left and i jumped the ramp. i landed hard!! then i look inside and my whole body mount was ripped of(front) the shock tower and my shocK tower was split in two!! so im want to return the part under the stress tech one year warranty but i dont have the reciept. anyone think i could return it without the reciept?? i also think i broke my steering servo cuz theres no shshsh sound wen you turn the wheels. i alredy broke the damn servo 3 times!!

[pudder]

Ya, they might replace the parts without reciept. I sent my ESC in once without reciept and they still gave me a new one. :) You'll have to see what they do though. All you can do is try, the parts are broken anyways.

You should invest in a metal gear servo, even a low priced one like the Hitec 625 is a great servo. I have 2 of them and use it for racing and bashing and it hasn't failed me so far! :)

[Maximillio1091]

what do you mean the parts are broken? do they send back the same stuff, only they glue them?lol thanks alot for the servo info, Would the Servo work on my stock motor?

[pudder]

You send them the parts you broke and they send you back brand new parts. They probably just throw the old ones out or recycle or something.

[Maximillio1091]

oh i see. would the steering servo work on my stock evader motor?

[rcguy2477]

any standard size servo will work. I used the 625mg when i was running mine. If i dont sell it, i may just end up racing it, my track gives out gift certificates, and with my increased skill i could easily get them.

[Maximillio1091]

in other words, the 625 would work

[pudder]

You will need to get a new servo horn if you get the hitec servo though.

[Maximillio1091]

where can i get a servo horn and why do i need one??

[Maximillio1091]

about how long does it take to ship in the new pieces if i order the broken pieces to duratrax by friday? also, the evader uses 30% shock oil right? cuz i gotsta rebuild the shocks.

[EvaderLXPro]

I have been reading this forum sice it started and i know pudder is an R/C guru. What would you reccomend to get if i wanted to race. Already have better servo, new esc, p2k2pro motor, and new tires. Anything else??

[pudder]

Maximillio1091 -about how long does it take to ship in the new pieces if i order the broken pieces to duratrax by friday? also, the evader uses 30% shock oil right? cuz i gotsta rebuild the shocks.
where can i get a servo horn and why do i need one??

Deppending where you live will reflect on how long the parts take to get to Duratrax and back. I live in Canada and my parts usually took 3 weeks from the time I sent them to the time I got them back, so I'd guess about 2 weeks for a resident of the U.S. You could always e-mail Duratrax and ask them too, they have a helpful friendly staff.

If you get a new servo, they come with servo horns too. :)


EvaderLXPro -I have been reading this forum sice it started and i know pudder is an R/C guru. What would you reccomend to get if i wanted to race. Already have better servo, new esc, p2k2pro motor, and new tires. Anything else??

What kind of track are you going to be running on? If you could, maybe get an aluminum idler gear, some spare spur gears, and a pinion set. Otherwise it sounds like you're okay to race.

Let me know what kind of track you're going to be running on and I can help you more.

[EvaderLXPro]

where do u get this aluminum idler. I'm not really sure what kind of track. As in i dont know how to describe it

[pudder]

I just want to know the suface characteristics for your track. Then I can help you.

I dont know where to get a metal idler, but you can find them.

And stuff'n ****. :)

[irace3d]

I race a T4 and a Duratrax and the Duratrax is been loud from the day i opened the box. You can get the aluminum idler at tower.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZP0&P=7
thay are in stock now.

[rcguy2477]

an aluminum idler isnt nessesary. I had a brushless in my evader(and raced it) and never stripped one. Actually, the holes that hold in the shaft for the idler loosened before anything stripped. I am still on my first idler. The main parts i have found to break are the rear arms, rear back plate, and the bumpers.

[pudder]

DuraTrax must have improved their gears then. :)

[guver]

I think they did, I had an early one and went thru a lot of idlers, and lately I haven't broken/stripped one. It may have been the top shaft that was at fault.

[EvaderLXPro]

Did you ever need to buy new slipper pads? Do you think Duratrax would still give me new parts for free if I mailed stuff in after the warranty date?

[pudder]

They might, but probably not. Its worth a try I guess if your parts are broken your not really loosing anything.

[jdrphs]

Hey Guys. Been reading your posts for a few days, and just joined. I am a rookie getting back into the hobby, and just picked up an Evader ST today. Ran it around for a bit on the garage, had some fun. I am pretty darn impressed with it. I have already broken a few parts (MI, it's cold out) but like the car a lot. I was wondering what will be my best first upgrade for some more power and speed. Guy at the shop says go 17 turn, or change gearing. Any help would be great. Bigger pinion =more takeoff power right, smaller = top end.??


jd

[guver]

Originally posted by EvaderLXPro
Did you ever need to buy new slipper pads? Do you think Duratrax would still give me new parts for free if I mailed stuff in after the warranty date?

I never had to replace slipper pads and mine are the original white ones. I would like to know the same thing about the warranty.

ps. I also have some new evst parts in the buy/sell forum for like half price. search for guver username. or evader parts.

[guver]

jd nice looking truck. I can't believe mine ever looked that good.....

bigger pinion = more top end speed
smaller pinion = quicker take off / more tork

[jdrphs]

So what size pinions gears are safe to play with with the stock 20T motor. I will eventually upgrade, but just want to play with the gearing first. Already ran 6 packs through her yesterday, had to learn to clean the brushes already. Motor seized up on me. Got her running good again, just got to replace the rear chassis plate, snapped the right side completely off. Made me laugh pretty good though. Can't wait to get it outside today after I get the new part. It's dry out now, so I hope the snow holds off. Thanks a lot.

jd

[RaceDog]

Anyone have an economical peak detection charger for NiCd and NiMh they would recommend? I've got a bottom of the line Hobbico NiCd charger right now that is just a timer, but I want to step up to a peak detector. I want to stick with the stick packs with standard connectors though but I see a lot of chargers with alligator clips. Can you charge a stick pack with those, and if so how? Anybody know anything about the MRC SuperBrain 959? Sounds good and at a reasonable price if I can figure out how to use the alligator clips. Is this charger any good or should I stay away from it?

[elgordo]

Pinion size would depend alot on type track you are running on. I tried a 17T (Speed Gem Amber** and it worked fairly well but you acually shouldn't drop much below 20 turns with the stock ESC that comes with the car. The stock 20 tooth pinion seems to work pretty well for parking lot bashing.

[pudder]

I've used down to a 14 turn with the stock esc. :)

[jdrphs]

Thanks for the info guys. Installed a 21 Teeth pinion today, seems pretty fast. Mine came with an 18 tooth, not a 20. Now I am having a problem with the brushes. The motor will run great for about one pack, then start to be slow, then stop. Took it all apart again, and the brush spring broke. Should I just right this Photon off and upgrade sooner, or just replace the brushes. Maybe the 21 tooth is making it get too hot?? Thanks again fellas.

[jdrphs]

Racedog. From what I have seen, the alligator clips are for DC input. Basically you can clip them in your car battery and charge your packs like that. They should still have the other connection

jd

[pudder]

Originally posted by jdrphs
Thanks for the info guys. Installed a 21 Teeth pinion today, seems pretty fast. Mine came with an 18 tooth, not a 20. Now I am having a problem with the brushes. The motor will run great for about one pack, then start to be slow, then stop. Took it all apart again, and the brush spring broke. Should I just right this Photon off and upgrade sooner, or just replace the brushes. Maybe the 21 tooth is making it get too hot?? Thanks again fellas.

I'd upgrade soon.

To tell if your motor is too hot, you should be able to hold your finger on the motor can for at least 5 seconds without burning your finger. If it burns your finger in under that amount of time its too hot. Thats just a generic measure for motor temp. :)

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by RaceDog
Anyone have an economical peak detection charger for NiCd and NiMh they would recommend? I've got a bottom of the line Hobbico NiCd charger right now that is just a timer, but I want to step up to a peak detector. I want to stick with the stick packs with standard connectors though but I see a lot of chargers with alligator clips. Can you charge a stick pack with those, and if so how? Anybody know anything about the MRC SuperBrain 959? Sounds good and at a reasonable price if I can figure out how to use the alligator clips. Is this charger any good or should I stay away from it?

my boss has one of the 959's and it has worked flawlessly (sp?) for him... i have the 969 and its awsome... u can hook it up to ur car or in the house and u can charge 2 packs... Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh... if u haver thoe moneu u mite wanna go fro the 969 but the 959 is also good just has a few less options..

[jdrphs]

ok, now i'm getting kinda upset. This Photon in needing to be taken apart and cleaned like every 2 packs. it will freez, and not do anything unless i give it a nudge. Once i take the brushes out, clean them, it runs great again. I have already replaced the brushes with associated ones. It ran great for a while, now its sticking again. Is this typical of the stock motors, or do you have this problem with a lot of different types. What should I swap to if I decide to go like 19T? Thanks again, save me, lol.

jd

[TeamMishap]

Go Chameleon! for 19T

[RaceDog]

Originally posted by jdrphs
ok, now i'm getting kinda upset. This Photon in needing to be taken apart and cleaned like every 2 packs. it will freez, and not do anything unless i give it a nudge. Once i take the brushes out, clean them, it runs great again. I have already replaced the brushes with associated ones. It ran great for a while, now its sticking again. Is this typical of the stock motors, or do you have this problem with a lot of different types. What should I swap to if I decide to go like 19T? Thanks again, save me, lol.

jd


I've been running the stock Photon 20T motor for about 3 months and haven't had any problems with it. Cleaned it with motor spray every so often and used a comm stick, but it seems to be okay for me so far.

[jdrphs]

Race Dog,

How many times have you changed the brushes so far. It could be that I havn't got any comm sticks yet. Are they abraisive on the end. I have cleaned it out with spray, but I just used a cotton swab with some cleaner in it to clean the comm. Got some pretty black stuff off of it. Maybe that is my problem, huh.

Thanks jd

[rcguy2477]

Your motor is probably in need of getting its comm cut. Unless someone has a stock lathe around you, get a new motor. I suggest the chameleon.

[pudder]

Chameleon is a good low priced motor that has good performance. Make sure to take care of it too. :)

[guver]

Originally posted by RaceDog
Anyone have an economical peak detection charger for NiCd and NiMh they would recommend? I've got a bottom of the line Hobbico NiCd charger right now that is just a timer, but I want to step up to a peak detector. I want to stick with the stick packs with standard connectors though but I see a lot of chargers with alligator clips. Can you charge a stick pack with those, and if so how? Anybody know anything about the MRC SuperBrain 959? Sounds good and at a reasonable price if I can figure out how to use the alligator clips. Is this charger any good or should I stay away from it?

try searching on "guver" username in the buy/sell forum I have many good deals on chargers.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=368493&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

ps the 959 has the standard tamiya connector, some of the 959 you have to start the charge twice though.

[Maximillio1091]

Hey, Back agen
anywayZZ im getin moster tires an 11t motor and a new ESC. the guy at the hobby shop sed nothin would fry or burn as long as the tires arent that much bigger than the stock ones. thats correct...Right? also i was driving around with my friends Electric Rustler and it does some hott wheelies!! i never knew an electric could do wheelies. im thinkin if the 11t motor would do wheelis? thanX

[pudder]

Oh ya, some electrics wheelie. You can get most to if you have enough power. I dont know if I ever got my evader to wheelie...

[TeamMishap]

Back when I had tread on my tires, my Evader would wheelie under brushless power. If you want wheelies, put your foam battery spacer in front. This'll shift some weight to the rear. Also a bigger spur gear will force your motor to hang off the rear a bit further. Again, moving COG back and making wheelies more feasible.

[corvettekilla18]

my "evadermaxx" wheelies too high. it will scrape the back of the body, part of it has already been ripped off. Sometimes it will even flip. I need a wheelie bar

[jdrphs]

Your motor is probably in need of getting its comm cut. Unless someone has a stock lathe around you, get a new motor. I suggest the chameleon.




A guy I work with actually does have a lathe. He is going to cut my Photon, and also let me borow an older trinity 19 T that he has. Will I notice much of a difference from the photon to a decent 19T?? How often do you guys really give your motors a good cleaning. I want to make sure I am doing it often enough. I notice that the photon would run great for about 2 packs after a good clean, then slowed. If I pushed the brushes slightly closer to the comm, she would rev up like mad. Am I not seeing everything this motor can do?? I just want it to be fast, and reliable. I'll check into the chameleons though, they must be pretty quick huh?? Thanks again guys for answering all the newbies Q's!!

jd

[elgordo]

jdrphs

Try some new stiffer brush springs or tweek the ones available to you now. I think you need more brush contact from what you are saying. I have 4 Photon's. Never had any problems with regular maintenance.

[sddavis29]

hey can anyone tell me where i can i can get a good steering servo with metal gears cause the oem one keeps melting the gears
also does anyone run there evader without the slipper clutch cause mine doesnt work even when i put new slipper pads on the motor and spur gear spin but not the slipper shaft. maybe if i go with the hard anodized set from tower and has anyone found the graphite parts on sale for the evader pro

[jdrphs]

Originally posted by sddavis29
hey can anyone tell me where i can i can get a good steering servo with metal gears cause the oem one keeps melting the gears
also does anyone run there evader without the slipper clutch cause mine doesnt work even when i put new slipper pads on the motor and spur gear spin but not the slipper shaft. maybe if i go with the hard anodized set from tower and has anyone found the graphite parts on sale for the evader pro


I would say that you really need to figure out what is wrong with your slipper. It is designed not only to keep wheel spin under control, but to save some stress on the gears. I finally have mine set perfect, and you can tell that there is much less stress on the tranny. Gives me that noise for a second like on the video. My 2 cents.

[pudder]

Originally posted by jdrphs
How often do you guys really give your motors a good cleaning. I want to make sure I am doing it often enough. I notice that the photon would run great for about 2 packs after a good clean, then slowed. If I pushed the brushes slightly closer to the comm, she would rev up like mad. Am I not seeing everything this motor can do?? I just want it to be fast, and reliable. I'll check into the chameleons though, they must be pretty quick huh?? Thanks again guys for answering all the newbies Q's!!

jd

I usually clean my good motors every 2 packs when I'm racing to keep performance to a maximum, but for just bashing, deppending on how much you drive in a day, clean it after maybe 8 packs or so. It all deppends on how much dirt the motor attracts too and what kind of ground you are running on.

The Chameleon motors go good, and will probably out perform a photon pretty good.

[rcguy2477]

Originally posted by sddavis29
hey can anyone tell me where i can i can get a good steering servo with metal gears cause the oem one keeps melting the gears
also does anyone run there evader without the slipper clutch cause mine doesnt work even when i put new slipper pads on the motor and spur gear spin but not the slipper shaft. maybe if i go with the hard anodized set from tower and has anyone found the graphite parts on sale for the evader pro
A good servo is the hitec 625mg. It has good enough torque and is pretty fast.

For the slipper issue, it may not even be the slipper, check the diff. If it is too loose, it will make the same sound as the slipper does while accelerating.

[sddavis29]

can anyone recommend a good motor that is faster than the stock photon and a good spur gear and pinon gear set that is faster than stock
also is it a good idea to go to the hard anodized light slipper set from duratrax

[pudder]

The Trinity Chameleon 2 motor is a good reliable 19 turn motor. It has lots of torque, good speed, and is pretty durable. It would be a good replacement for your Photon motor.

As far as spurs and pinions go, I always like to buy Kimbrough spurs and Robinson Racing pinions. I dont know what your gearing is right now so I can't really help you with a precise choice on gearing.

[sddavis29]

hey pudder the spur is 88t and the pinion is 20t also where can i get those spur and pinion gears you were talking about

[jdrphs]

Originally posted by sddavis29
can anyone recommend a good motor that is faster than the stock photon and a good spur gear and pinon gear set that is faster than stock
also is it a good idea to go to the hard anodized light slipper set from duratrax


Wholly Cow!! You guys where right. Just installed a brand new Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro 19T, and that thing flies. The car is like a different class, really came to life. I must say, that with a brand new pack, it is almost hard to control on dusty concrete. Anyone looking for a great motor, get this Chameleon 2 Pro. Got it with a 18 Teeth pinion, and it runs pretty cool. Battery life is decent for my little 1500's. Tires are bald almost now, so that's next. Thanks for the advice, I love my car even more now!!!!

jd

[pudder]

There's your answer, gear down to 18 tooth. Thats what I did with my T3 when I installed my Chameleon 2 as well, geared down 2 teeth.

[jdrphs]

Yes, the 18 tooth pinion seems to be perfect for the 19T chameleon 2. Loads of fun. Ran about 6 packs through her today, and my tire's are officially slicks. Set up a jump, and somhow managed not to break anything.

Question also. Has anyone ever heard of powerizer battery cells. Just wondering because they are on ebay for 20 bux, 2 7.2 volt 2100 mah packs. I may blow the 20 just to see what they are all about for bashing. Later fellas

jd

[sddavis29]

thanks for that info on the motor and 18 tooth pinion i will try that cause now my photon is making some weird squeling sound at full trottle. either needs brushes or need to just junk it. anyway i jump my evader to on the portable jump from tower makes cool jumps but breaks something almost all the time. nose dives alot even with battery all the way back does anyone know where i can get some stick on lead weights so that will help it i am still waiting on the graphite suspinsion parts for the evader pro to go on sale will upgrade to them when the do. thanks again maybe i put a pick on here one day

[elgordo]

Your stock evader parts are probably more durable for bashing than the graphite parts, which will lighten you truck for racing but break just as easily.

[jdrphs]

Originally posted by sddavis29
thanks for that info on the motor and 18 tooth pinion i will try that cause now my photon is making some weird squeling sound at full trottle. either needs brushes or need to just junk it. anyway i jump my evader to on the portable jump from tower makes cool jumps but breaks something almost all the time. nose dives alot even with battery all the way back does anyone know where i can get some stick on lead weights so that will help it i am still waiting on the graphite suspinsion parts for the evader pro to go on sale will upgrade to them when the do. thanks again maybe i put a pick on here one day


Try making the front shocks as tight as possible, and the back as loose as possible. This will cause the front to spring up more, and the rear to sit down a bit. Also, stay on the throttle through the jump, give up half way, and it's dive city. The centrifigal (sp) force of the wheels tends to keep the front up. I was doing my first flat landings yest. doing these things. Good luck, and get the chameleon!!!

jd

[ayk_driver]

if i get the cameleon for my evader and use the stock pinion will it be ok or will it get to hot? how about performance?

[pudder]

It may have a lack of acceleration because of the higher gearing, and it may run a bit hot as well. It's just best to buy a smaller pinion and run it proper.

[ayk_driver]

ok kewl... maybe ill order those 2 soon... almost time to start running again :)

[Maximillio1091]

I KNOW ITS LONG BUT PLEES READ

i just went to my local hobby shop last saturday and bought an 11 turn motor with an INTELLISPEED ESC, some very nice CLAWZ RIMS and PROLINE TIRES.I toock it home, let the tires dry afetr i glued them then put the new motor and ESC. i took it out for a spin not knowing that is was going to go as fast as it did!! it goes CRAZY FAST!!! anyway im wondoring if i would need anything else(the man at the hobby shop said i didnt need anything else) but my front tires dont fit because i need the adapter or whatever goes inside the rim for it to be able to spin on the axle. also, would i need anything else. it seems to be running fine but when it out of battery it just runs off by itself so i gotto go chasin for it and eventually it stops (in about 5 seconds) wut the problem????:confused:

[elgordo]

Two possibilities. ESC is not properly programed or the BEC circuit
is fried. If it is the BEC you will have to send in for service.

[jdrphs]

Originally posted by ayk_driver
if i get the cameleon for my evader and use the stock pinion will it be ok or will it get to hot? how about performance?



Run the chameleon with an 18 tooth pinion. They are only a few bux at your LHS. You will not be dissappointed with what your car will do.


jd

[1tuffRC10]

Maximillio1091, did you take the bearings out of the old wheels and put them in the new ones? There is a spacer between the bearings also. Sounds like you are over geared. Try dropping 2 or 3 teeth on the pinion. The stock 20 pinion will be way too much with that 11 turn motor. The less turns on a motor, the more rpm that motor makes so you need to gear down to keep the motor from overheating. The old speed controls would "lock up" like that when they were overworked.

[RaceDog]

Originally posted by Maximillio1091

my front tires dont fit because i need the adapter or whatever goes inside the rim for it to be able to spin on the axle.


You need to take the bearings and spacers out of the old front wheels and put them in your new wheels. Easiest way I've found to do this is with a small screwdriver get behind the bearing and push it out. May have to do it a little at a time from multiple angles. It's a little tricky to get the hang of it the first time you do it, but once you get the hang of it, it gets easier. Once you've got one bearing out, it's easy to pop out the spacer and the other bearing. To get them into the new wheel, you might have to tap them a little at a time with the screwdriver into place. It's a tight fit.

[RaceDog]

Once I've worn all the rubber off of my tires, is there anyway I can resuse the same plastic wheels? Any good way to get the old rubber off the wheels and prep them for new rubber or do you just have to trash them and start with new ones?

[pudder]

If you are good with an exacto knife, you can cut the old rubber out, deppending on how good it was glued. Another way would be to cut the rubber off the tires and then dremel out the old rubber from the bead on the rim.

[jdrphs]

Well guys, going to re-build that differential tonight. I will get some new rubber tomorrow, and finally get to catch some air now that the snow is melting up here in Michigan. I have one question about the diff. I have heard that there is a special type of oil that should be used on the balls. Is this true?? I used my normal RC oil for the motor, and I think that I made a big boo-boo. It was slipping like mad, and I ended up over tightening it to make up for it. I see that the new balls are pre-oiled, so that should do it. Well, that's all I got tonight. Thanks again fellas, and happy racin!!

[pudder]

You should use a grease such as Team Associated's Stealth Diff Lube. It is a high quality silicone grease.

[puribong]

I got a question.
What parts are interchangable or direct-fit between Evader ST and Losi XXT? Can you guys list some parts that are interchangeble between two trucks?
Thanks..

[pudder]

As far as I know:

Front& Rear a-arms
Front& Rear shock towers

[sddavis29]

hey thanks to everyone for the recommending the chameleon. it fast alot faster than the photon. does anyone know of any other bodys that will fit the evader other than the stock body. and how often should i perform maintence on the chameleon and what all should i do to keep it at top performace.

[pudder]

I have a few articles on my website with pictures about electric motors and how to clean them.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/ht_index.htm

[jdrphs]

Hey, just wanted to make sure everyone was still alive. I am looking to get a better battery pack, but need to stay Ni-cd for the time being. what does everyone use that they recommend for me. I am currently still using my beginner duratrax shark 1500's, and they don't last for crap. Is there some good 1900's or bigger that you recommend?? Thanks in advance

jd

[guver]

check out my batts in the buysell forums, good deals. If you need to stay nicad, then a 2400 is the max, any pack with sanyo cells is probly the best.

ps If you have a timer charger then you can use nimh as well as nicads.

[TeamMishap]

New batteries seems to me to be the number three best thing to do your your car.

#1 Get a new motor. Going from the Photon to a 19T Chameleon will make you happy as a little girl.

#2 New speedo. I never thought a speedo would make a difference. I went from stock to a Novak Super Rooster and was like my first kiss. It is amazing how much better a speedo with lower resistance makes. (Go to a brushless system...and it's like hitting your first home run)

#3 Batteries. I went from junk shark packs to a set of home built GP3300 packs. They weren't matched packs, just some fresh, loose GP3300 cells I got for $4.50 each. Again, it was amazing the difference the lower internal resistance makes. Electrons were just flying out of the batteries, free as little birds, making the Evader fly.

Outside of these three things you can buy, you won't notice much change in your vehicle's speed. A nice strong quick servo will help with steering, but not with speed. Titanium adds durability and burns a hole in your pocketbook, but won't burn ya any rubber. Aluminum is nice, pretty, and strong, but won't make you faster. Another thing that will make you faster is practice. That you can't find for sale.

[RaceDog]

To upgrade to a 19T Chameleon, would I have to change anything else on the car, or will the stock ESP and pinion gear run with it okay?

[philp37]

You should go down at least one tooth on the pinion. But most new drivers probably need to go down a tooth or two on the stock pinion that comes with the evader. It would help the driving learning curve alot.

[jdrphs]

Originally posted by RaceDog
To upgrade to a 19T Chameleon, would I have to change anything else on the car, or will the stock ESP and pinion gear run with it okay?


I am running a 18 tooth pinion on my Chameleon 2 pro 19T, and is is about perfect for me. The motor seems to stay very cool also. This motor has made driving my ST so much more fun.

jd

[RaceDog]

Originally posted by jdrphs
I am running a 18 tooth pinion on my Chameleon 2 pro 19T, and is is about perfect for me. The motor seems to stay very cool also. This motor has made driving my ST so much more fun.

jd

I order most of my stuff online. How do I know what pinion will fit the Evader ST?

[guver]

pinions 15 tooth - 27 tooth (48 pitch) will fit if that's what you asking some tolerances on the trans case and motor and plate and such maybe to be safe stick with 16-26. That's for a stockk 88 tooth spur gear.

[elgordo]

Just order a 48 pitch pinion. Get a set from Robinson (on Tower) and they are a lot cheaper. Sets of 6 odd or even tooth sizes.

[orbitron]

The snow is leaving....

[1tuffRC10]

Low to mid 60's this weekend here. Races on Saturday and Sunday. I love the south! LOL :D

[1tuffRC10]

Check out this track. It was brutal. www.boggycreekraceway.com

[orbitron]

Oh yeah.. check out my local track http://www.rcracersedmonton.com

[tomkat14]

does anybody think that is a good truck for a beginner like me?

[guver]

I think it a great beginner truck, I have sold many to beginners and I still drive mine too. It's not full race truck, but is a great deal especially if your on a budget.

[elgordo]

The Evader is a great choice. I have two, that are driven quite often. Broke a few parts but all were covered by the warranty. I would suggest a motor upgrade. You won't be happy with the Proton for long. Acornite, Chameleon 19T"s are good choices for the Evader but there are others also. Have Fun.

[EvaderLXPro]

Well my evader is up for sale on ebay. Grapite suspension arms, new esc, Its the one with a Team Losi XXT body. Just in case you were interested tomkat 14. Its good deal. Everything u need.

[irace3d]

take a look at the local track i race at
www.brinksspeedway.com (http://www.brinksspeedway.com)

[tomkat14]

do you guys think i should get minit or evader?

[philp37]

Get the Evader. You will enjoy working on the 1/10 scale much more. If you can spring for the Pro do it.

[ayk_driver]

if u just wanna bash then go for the evader but from what i herd if there is racing in ur area and u wanna race the mini t mite be kinda kewl...

[TeamMishap]

I'm partial to the Evader too. Their warranty is definately great. It lasts just about the time period of a bad driver's, like myself, learning curve.

The Evader is able to be swagged out pretty well too and with the Evader Pro coming out, when you dork up your regular plastic, you can replace with graphite.

Put the right upgraded motor etc in it and it is raceworthy.

I did preface this with saying I am partial to the Evader didn't I ;)

[frebby]

I'm sure it's been answered before but i searched and cannot seem to find anything but HUGE threads.
I have an Evader ST and as many have stated, quickly became bored w/the POS photon speed motor. I'm looking to upgrade like yesterday! My LHS has a Peak Performance 17t Jaguar for $25. Good motor? Good speed? I'm looking for something that will blow the photon speed motor away. One of my main considerations is that i am an R/C noob and don't know about all of these diff gear sizes. I want to be able to buy a new engine, hook up the plugs, charge a pack and roll. What is my best bet? Chameleon? P2k2? Speed Gem? Peak Performance Jag?
Any assistance GREATLY appreciated (especially quick responses). I'd like to pick something up today.

[orbitron]

I don't know jack about the pinions (I've heard two more teeth than turns in motor) but generally speaking the chameleon and the p2k2 get good reccomendations around here.

[sddavis29]

hey does anybody recommend aluminium shock towers cause i keep breaking mine and all so are the graphite parts for the evader pro on sale yet and where

[frebby]

Originally posted by orbitron
I don't know jack about the pinions (I've heard two more teeth than turns in motor) but generally speaking the chameleon and the p2k2 get good reccomendations around here.

Thanks orbitron!

[philp37]

Depending of course on your driving experience and style of track you are racing on, I would start with a tooth smaller than the turns on the motor. Watch for excess heat from either winding out or lugging that can be caused by too few or too many teeth on the pinion. The key is to not make the motor work too hard or not hard enough. But it is all about lap time. Take time to experiment with differant pinions.

[frebby]

Originally posted by philp37
Depending of course on your driving experience and style of track you are racing on, I would start with a tooth smaller than the turns on the motor. Watch for excess heat from either winding out or lugging that can be caused by too few or too many teeth on the pinion. The key is to not make the motor work too hard or not hard enough. But it is all about lap time. Take time to experiment with differant pinions.

I'm just backyard bashing. I want to keep a good balance of torque and speed. Eventually i'll head out to a track but am building one in my backyard for practice. I def need some torque to power through sand, gravel, grass, etc...i just want to power through it faster than i do w/that photon speed motor. I used to have rc's when i was younger, grasshopper, lobo then a tamiya frog. Just been about 12yrs since i had one until i got the evader.
So the peak performance motor is a 17turn double i believe...16 tooth?

[philp37]

Thats what I would try Frebby. By the sounds of it, you might want to try an 18 or 19 tooth on the photon to improve its performance for your application. I find that the stock pinion on the evader matched with the photon, are definately the wrong ratio for anything that includes grass and all but the hardest straightest tracks.

[frebby]

rock on! Thanks Philip
I'm going to my shop in about an hour and will grab the peak performance jag w/a 16 tooth and a 19 tooth for the photon.

<edit> after reading up some more the description of the jag motor says:

This is Peak Performance Jacquar electric motor.
Works for any electric car or truck.

FEATURES: Machine wound motor
Adjustable timing
Bearinged motor

INCLUDES: One 17 turn, double motor
No solder motor leads with bullet connectors

REQUIRES: Nothing

SPECS: Length: 540/50 motor can size
Diameter: 1/8" shaft

What's the deal w/the "no solder motor leads w/bullet connectors"? I don't see the connectors on the picture. Am i going to have to do something special here to connect this engine to my evader? I know the photon speed has the connectors already on it.

[elecracr]

No, your leads comming out of ur esc, can disconnect from the motor, and your new motor leads can plug into, no solder leads just clip on instead of solder on.

[pudder]

Werd

[tomkat14]

i crushed my shock tower front and was wondering wher i can buy a new one?

[sddavis29]

hey you can buy one at towerhobbies.com or if you have a local hobby town they have them

[orbitron]

If your LHS doesn't have an evader shock tower, buy one for a losi XX-T (that's double x not xxx) Perfect fit!

[philp37]

Originally posted by tomkat14
i crushed my shock tower front and was wondering wher i can buy a new one?

Tomkat if you live in Canada I can ship you one free of charge.

[pudder]

If anyone wants a free front shock tower and body mount, I can send one out.

[orbitron]

right here pudder! but I'm not driving to winnipeg! I moved to edmonton now. PM me if you're cool with it.

[JBradley]

was going to get a Traxxas Stampede, but then i saw the Evader st pro and i am thinking about getting one, when it comes out. I wont be racing; mostly just driving around on grass, gravel, dirt, and pavement. Does anyone know how graphite parts hold up. I heard that they break easy, because that are designed for racing, when stiff parts are a must. Is that true? Also, the reason i want the pro over the regular evader st or the traxxas rustler or stampede is because it has a good motor, ESC, aluminum shocks, bearings and a nice remote.

Before finding the evader pro i planned on getting a stampede and then buying a new motor, ESC, bearings, and alimunum shocks, which would have ended up costing much more.

Does the evader pro sound like a good choice for my uses? Will i have to get the comm cut or will the comm last by just cleaning it? the reason i am asking is because i dont have any hobby shops around me and no tracks. I live in canada and it seems like many of the canadian web sites that i have found dont carry duratrax parts, so that is kinda makeing me lean toward the Traxxas stampede.

Where in canada can i order parts for a duratrax evader? I found greathobbies.com and they sell duratrax but thay have no parts for them. If i get a evader pro and the graphite breaks easy will i be able to replace the broken graphite with the much cheaper plastic parts that the regular evader st uses?

[orbitron]

Jbradley - modelland in Calgary always has parts for the evader. They're a little on the expensive side but they're always there.

Remember for the first year you have the stress tech guarantee the parts usually ship in a week (even across the border) which is pretty good. And free!

My buddy bought a rusty and they're lacking in a lot of departments compared to the evader. No bearings, no foam in the tires, non-adjustable shock towers, really bad servo set up, and quite weighty. but on the flip side the rustler is indestructable!

also the evader pro will have an excellent esc as the original has a not so great one. I upgraded to the 16t reversable (that is in the pro) and it is great.

[orbitron]

Oops I forgot to say, all of those advantages are with the stock evader not the pro!

[JBradley]

thanks, i checked out model land site and they dont have prices (but if i need the part there is nothing i can do ) but atleast I can get them shipped to me. i live in saskatchewan. you said the evader pro comes witha 16t ESC, but it comes with a 12t because the motor is a 15t. That is even better. the only thing i am worried about is how the graphite will hold up. i dont want to constantly be sending in parts, due to the downtime, and after the 1 year warranty i will have to order the parts from somewhere, and it will probally cost a few $$ shipping. i dont want to be ordering $3 parts every week and paying $5 shipping.

It doesn't seem like the evader has much of a bumper. is there any larger bumper that i can buy and put on. IS there any larger bumper that goes in front of the wheels so it i hit a curb it will survive?


orbitron: i saw in an above post that you live in edmonton. Do you know how the great hobbies store is? i was thinking about ordering my rc from them. They have the evader st pro for 369.99CDN and the evader st for 249.99CDN. They also have the stampede with ESC for 229.99CDN. Those prices are only about $10-20CDN more then american web sites after the exchange rate.

Has anyone, from canada, ever ordered any rc stuff from american web sites? i was looking at towerhobbies.com. there prices are a little cheaper and now they have a $20 off coupon on orders of $50 american or more, which would cover the 17.99US shipping charge to canada. For all the stuff i want to get it would be about 30-40CDN cheaper from towerhobbies.com and i would basically have no shipping charge(which would probally be 10-15 extra over the canadian prices). the thing i was wondering was how does it work when it comes across the border into canada? I know that i will probally have to pay atleast the GST, but are there any other duty charges that i will be hit with?