Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0 [Archive] - Page 3

orbitron

03-21-2004, 11:54 PM

OK
In Calgary there is hobby guys, modelland, PM hobbycraft. Modelland and PM are the only real contenders and modelland is more expensive but is always stocked. PM rarely has anything for the evader but they're alright for other stuff.

In Edmonton there is hobbywholesale, and great hobbies. IMO hobby wholesale is a better place to shop. Kits are cheaper, parts seem to be more available and there is staff to help you out.

As for online...
Once I got an ESC from tower and don't recall duty being charged. They were relatively fast and i was happy with everything except the shipping charge but in the end it was still about $10 cheaper.(at $105)

I've heard rumours about stormer hobbies. I've recently looked into getting a XXX-4 and they charging nearly half the price of ads in the mags. Shipping looks to be about $35 for a kit but I'm not sure about the duty and the time. I am considering it heavily though.

I wish I could answer your question better since I am going through the same dilemma myself! (but the XXX-4 seems to be chaper from stormer)

I have done quite a bit of ordering online (from various places)and don't recall ever getting charged duty, but my average order was less than $150.

frebby

03-22-2004, 08:00 AM

Originally posted by philp37
Thats what I would try Frebby. By the sounds of it, you might want to try an 18 or 19 tooth on the photon to improve its performance for your application. I find that the stock pinion on the evader matched with the photon, are definately the wrong ratio for anything that includes grass and all but the hardest straightest tracks.

Ok, so i went to my LHS Friday afternoon and ended up with an Orion Rush 17double, dual bearings, adjustable timing (don't know how to do this...YET), modified motor. I pulled the pinion off of the photon speed and slapped it on (it's a 20tooth). SUCKED!
Geez, i ended up putting the photon speed back in until i can make it back to LHS (today!!). Hopefully i didn't get a crap engine and the swap to a 17 tooth pinion will improve things drastically????
It seems like it can't really get up to speed. Not as much punch as with the photon speed.

elecracr

03-22-2004, 04:07 PM

Frebby, get a bag of pinions in a six pack if your lhs has them, this way you can experiment, i gear my evader bx around 3 teeth over the turn so 20 is too high for the st
ALso, to change timing loosen the screws that hold the endbell on and move it counter clockwise, this will also increse the performance drastically, do not go above 24degress timing either

guver

03-22-2004, 05:18 PM

I've been gearing my evst about 3 teeth more than turns too, but I run alot of open long places.

Here's a tip I forgot to post, it's about many who have wasted and purchased a new slipper clutch. Things to ck when the slipper nut is tight, but still slips.

1 The ends of the spurgear screws can hit the inner plate keeping the plates seperated.

2 The plates them selves can get worn and start hitting each other even with the pad inbetween.

3 The brass bushing can become burred not allowing the spring tension to push against the outer plate.

1 shorter screws or a few washers
2 flat sand the outer to get rid of the worn step, sand the outer ridge of the inner plate almost all the way off.
3 deburr (chamfer) the inside of the bushing with a drill bit

All these problems get worse the more it wears down, but the fixes make it like new again.

pudder

03-22-2004, 07:03 PM

I have had the Evader and Stampede. I dont like some of the stock features of the pede, and the fact that it takes a few upgrades to get it to run great, but once you have upgraded it, I find the Stampede the best 2wd bashing vehicle I have ever seen. The Evader is good as well, but it isnt as much fun for bashing as the Stampede.

Thats just my 2 cents.

RaceDog

03-23-2004, 10:09 AM

I have a puzzling problem. I have the stock Photon motor with the original brushes and springs. Bashing around in my yard, everything is cool. But when I go to the local dirt track my truck will just suddenly stop. I know the battery isn't dead, because I can still stear the front wheels, but I can't get the car to move. I take the car home and then everything is cool again.

I'm thinking it is either: 1). the battery connection is bad, 2). I need to replace the transmitter batteries, 3). the brushes need to be replaced, or 4). the springs need to be replaced.

Any ideas how I can isolate the problem?

guver

03-23-2004, 10:18 AM

I usually have trouble with the stock brushes/comm/springs, that's kinda what it sounds like.

I'm not sure why it gives trouble at track (that does piont to a radio problem, but it stiill steers right?) It may be coincidence.

If you can keep stopping and get it to act up,(while it won't run) turn up the throttle trim or squeeze trigger slightly and then using a small object push in on each brush and maybe it will take off and go.

You also may notice that the brush spring is bottomed out on the slot in the brush hood(not pushing on the bruch anymore)

pudder

03-23-2004, 10:26 AM

You should try looking at your motors brushes and comm, as well as cleaning the motor regularly. When is the last time you cleaned or did any maitenence to your motor?

You might want to look at this:
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/howto_motorclean.htm

RaceDog

03-25-2004, 09:41 AM

Originally posted by pudder
You should try looking at your motors brushes and comm, as well as cleaning the motor regularly. When is the last time you cleaned or did any maitenence to your motor?

You might want to look at this:
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/howto_motorclean.htm

Never took the motor completely apart like you show on your web site. I think I'm going to try that and replace the brushes and springs and see if that helps too. I really think the brushes and springs are going to do it. I was trying to troubleshoot it and I had the car sitting on a stand and pulling the throttle wasn't doing anything. I pushed on one of the brushes and then the thing came to life.

Thanks for the advice.

frebby

03-25-2004, 09:47 AM

yep, mine did the EXACT same thing and it was the brushes. The stock brushes seem to wear very quickly. I also noticed a performance increase when i swapped the stock brushes out for some reedy brushes.

RaceDog

03-25-2004, 10:00 AM

Just to clarify - I have been cleaning the motor by shooting spray through the vent hoods like they show in the video and cleaning the comm and brushes with a comm stick, just never took the motor completely apart.

The_In_Kid

03-28-2004, 01:13 AM

thought i'd report in and say that the idler gear blew up on me during my Main on the race i had wednesday what an upset that was...

i'm only running stock 27 turn with a monster pro and the idler gear just said i hate you and blew up...

ayk_driver

03-28-2004, 04:46 AM

man that wood suck... if that happened to me id just kick it back to the pits lol

philp37

03-28-2004, 12:05 PM

Does anybody know what part number or where I can find the double sticky sided receiver mount spounge. I dont seem to be able to find it in any parts list.

pudder

03-28-2004, 01:44 PM

You can find similar tape at most hardware stores such as Home Depot, in the adhesive section. The stuff that you buy there is white I think, but it sure as hell works great, and is a lot cheaper than the rc company made ones.

philp37

03-28-2004, 01:51 PM

Thanks Pudder....

I also have a brain freeze on shock oil... havnt touched them in 2 yrs. 20 wt is lighter than 40 wt...?? i cant remember?

Anybody got a shock tuning link?

pudder

03-28-2004, 01:58 PM

guver

03-28-2004, 02:13 PM

Does anybody know what part number or where I can find the double sticky sided receiver mount spounge. I dont seem to be able to find it in any parts list.

I too have been looking for that really thick spongy tape. I have lots of thin stuff, but have to layer it up cuz the rx don't fit in-between.

I do know that you get the thing when you buy a prebilt version.

philp37

03-28-2004, 02:36 PM

To put it simply;
The higher wt=the thicker of oil=more damping.

I run 30 wt AE oil in my shocks with 2 hole pistons and about 1/2" preload for offroad & jumping use. I also use the stock shock position settings, I find that it gives the nicest ride and still provides plenty of wheelies!

Pudder, which springs are you running? I was going to change my rear springs to the white soft springs and have been told that Duratrax put 20 wt oil in from the factory. If this is true. I think I might get away with no changes to the oil.

Are two hole pistons std on the Evader?

pudder

03-28-2004, 02:59 PM

Hmm, for some reason I thought I was in the Stampede forum, nevermind that post lol. :p

philp37

03-28-2004, 05:07 PM

So what does everbody think? The white springs on the rear with factory shock oil?

tomkat14

03-28-2004, 10:03 PM

do u guys think the evader st or bx better? which one goes faster

guver

03-28-2004, 10:32 PM

I think the bx is faster. As far as better, I like the st cuz of my bashing grounds. When I make my track, I would probly like them equally. In fact I don't bash my bx off-road because of the rough surfaces I run on.

pudder

03-28-2004, 11:09 PM

I'd take the ST over the Bx for bashing purposes. For racing, I like buggies. They are a bit more challenging than trucks.

RaceDog

03-29-2004, 04:17 PM

do u guys think the evader st or bx better? which one goes faster

Depends on what you want. I've heard the BX is faster on a prepared track. ST better on rougher terrain, backyard bashing, etc... I initially liked the look of the buggy better than the truck, but I bought the truck because several people told me it was more suited to backyard bashing. I've been real happy with the truck. Might get a 1/8 buggy sometime in the future.

GearHd

03-29-2004, 09:44 PM

guver

03-29-2004, 11:50 PM

Yes, I get the photons to last between 6 and 50 runs. I think the best I have found is to break the motor in , take a light cut on the comm, clean the stock brushes, and put on a heavy spring on the + and a med heavy spring on the -

Rear tires and motors pretty much wear out on them.

ayk_driver

03-30-2004, 10:28 AM

i just threw a stocker in my evader.... i lozst like 1-2 mph but i gained like 3-4 min run time...

philp37

03-30-2004, 10:48 AM

i just threw a stocker in my evader.... i lozst like 1-2 mph but i gained like 3-4 min run time...
What size pinion did you use?

elgordo

03-30-2004, 12:04 PM

Clean the com and brushes often and it will run forever (almost)

jdrphs

03-30-2004, 11:52 PM

I just purchased an Evader ST for my nephew after doing lots of research trying to find a reliable stadium truck. The Evader sounded like the best bang for the buck. Well we ran it one day with about 6 charges through it then he drove it a bit this morning and it stopped working. He couldnt figure it out. I went over and looked at it and turned the motor and then it worked but half speed and throwing lots of sparks where the brushes contact the armature. The once the motor stopped it wouldnt restart without spinning the armature. I installed a new stock motor I had and its working good. Has anyone else had trouble with the Photon Speed 20 Turn? Thanks.

Simply put I think, throw the photon away, and get something else, even the stocker. I think it is pretty common around here for people to recommend the chameleon 2 pro as a very good replacemen, for little money. I have run a ton on mine, and havn't even needed to change the brushes yet. Great motor for the money. Made mine so much faster, and reliable. Try it out, you will love it, I (we) promise!!

jd

ayk_driver

03-31-2004, 09:53 AM

What size pinion did you use?

the one that came with the truck... i think its like 22T i dunno...

elgordo

03-31-2004, 06:48 PM

Most likely your brushes. Perhaps a broken brush spring. Check them out and clean your com with motor spray. I use heavier brush springs in my ST and seems to be more dependable.

jdrphs

03-31-2004, 10:45 PM

the one that came with the truck... i think its like 22T i dunno...

As far as I know, all ST's came with a 20T pinion. My order book says 18, but I am sure they are all 20's.

guver

04-01-2004, 02:12 AM

Ditto on that 20 tooth, I had heard that just a few of the originals came with 18, but I never saw one and I've had a number of evaders.

pudder

04-01-2004, 09:33 AM

I had one of the original evaders, it came with an 18 tooth pinion. I found it to be way undergeared.

ayk_driver

04-01-2004, 10:13 AM

ok maybe its a 20T i dont quite no.... sorry for the confusion guys and gals...

vipgonza

04-03-2004, 10:03 PM

Hi, first timer here. I am in need of a new radio, any suggestions?

orbitron

04-03-2004, 10:43 PM

I just bought this one. It hasn't been delivered yet but I've heard good things. It's good cause it's cheap and has a lot of extras!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXENN3**&P=7

guver

04-04-2004, 12:24 AM

Hi, first timer here. I am in need of a new radio, any suggestions?

I have the transmitters for $17.99 I think in the buy/sell forum, search for guver username if interested.

frebby

04-05-2004, 10:57 AM

All,

I was enjoying catching some air w/my evader the other day and landed on my right rear very hard. The wheel just flopped over and the truck must be repaired. My problem is that i don't know the name of the part i need to replace. I tried looking @ the pdf of the exploded parts view and THINK i need part #27 (right side wheel hub) but am not sure. It's the piece that the camber link connects to. It's got that little knob on it..you remove it w/pliers to adjust the slipper. Anyone know what i'm talking about here? Is that the rear wheel hub?

KC

pudder

04-05-2004, 11:27 AM

Did your ballstud come out perhaps?

frebby

04-05-2004, 11:36 AM

Did your ballstud come out perhaps?

wish i could say pudder..i don't know the names of these parts.
You know how the rear camber link has a little ball on the end closest to the wheel and that snaps onto a ball on this piece that connect the wheel? That's the piece i broke....the one w/the little ball on it that the rear camber link attaches to :confused: :o

pudder

04-05-2004, 11:46 AM

Was it a plastic piece that threads onto the end of the camber rod? Or was it the piece that holds the wheel bearings and axle in?

frebby

04-05-2004, 11:48 AM

Was it a plastic piece that threads onto the end of the camber rod? Or was it the piece that holds the wheel bearings and axle in?
It's the one that goes on the end of the rod.

pudder

04-05-2004, 12:04 PM

If it looks like this and is black, its the ballcup.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC07746.JPG

guver

04-05-2004, 12:05 PM

That's called ball cups they are I think a dozen or so in a pack very cheap too.

frebby

04-05-2004, 12:14 PM

If it looks like this and is black, its the ballcup.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC07746.JPG

I appreciate your efforts pudder! That blue piece in the pic is the camber link correct? That is what connects to the piece that i broke. :confused:
There is a little ball on the broken piece. It looks like the blue piece on your pic would connect to that little ball.

orbitron

04-05-2004, 12:22 PM

I'm guessing you mean the rear hub. They come in aluminum if you never want to break one again.
Aluminum Rear Hub
DTXC8071 Blue
DTXC8072 Purple
http://duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc8071a-2.jpg
Lotsa good stuff here (with part numbers and names and pictures) (http://duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc6182.html)

frebby

04-05-2004, 12:26 PM

aahhh orbitron, always helpful.
I don't know..this thing has a little "nipple" looking thingy that the rear camber link snaps onto. I don't see that in your pic.
In the instructions for adjusting the slipper they say to remove the rear camber link w/pliers...the part you are removing the camber link from is what i broke. <sigh>I wish i had a digi cam. :(

guver

04-05-2004, 12:28 PM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMC6&P=7

frebby

04-05-2004, 12:31 PM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMC6&P=7
Ohhh so close! That is actually the piece on the end of the camber link right?
That ball cup is what slides onto the piece that i broke.

frebby

04-05-2004, 12:40 PM

ok, my apologies guys...it IS the rear hub. I didn't recognize it because in the pic it doesn't have the ball stud/sponge washer thing attached. THanks for your help everybody!!

KC

guver

04-05-2004, 12:45 PM

http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/index.html

Here is a exploded view and complete parts list you can download, item 27 is the hub, they come r,l in the same package. I have lots of evst parts for sale in the buy/sell forum.

orbitron

04-05-2004, 12:53 PM

nipple = ball stud?

frebby

04-05-2004, 12:59 PM

nipple = ball stud?

LOL...yes, sorry. Hee hee..
It's amazing, i'm an IT guy yet the most technical term i can think of to describe the ball stud is "Nipple looking thingy". :D

pudder

04-05-2004, 07:19 PM

Hey! Atleast we got it solved!

RaceDog

04-06-2004, 01:55 PM

If I want to have the ability to switch channels on my Evader, what do I need to upgrade? I want to have the flexibility to run another channel if someone else at the track is already using mine. Most race directors ask for your 1st frequency choice and then an alternate if that's already taken. I feel like a noob if I don't have the ability to have an alternate. My Evader came with the stock radio and channel 6. Can I buy new frequency crystals and still use the stock radio, or do I have to upgrade to a different radio? If I upgrade to a different radio, is there anything else I have to change on the car? I'm not looking to spend mega $ for a top of the line radio, just something that will accomplish what I want.

guver

04-06-2004, 02:46 PM

You can buy the crystals only, some say that you have to get the radio re worked on, but I think you're ok if you stay close to the same frq. If your on 27 mgh then radioshack sells 6 sets inbetween the futaba ones there are $20 for the whole set I think.

pudder

04-06-2004, 04:21 PM

Do you know if Radio Shack sells FM crystals as well?

guver

04-07-2004, 03:30 AM

I think it's just am 27 mgh. they're for the x-mods, they are channell 7-12

Wizardman_1

04-08-2004, 12:37 PM

Metal idler gear on tower hobbies

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=lxfzp0&FVPROFIL=++

cummins driver

04-09-2004, 05:58 PM

Hey guys. I just got an Evader today! I traded my roller tower hobbies nitro st-15 truck for a RTR Evader with about 3 or 4 really good motors, 2 speed controls(one 15t dynamite, and 1 14t ICP pro), a few spare parts, a big tackle box full of stuff, a battery charger, and 9 batteries. I think i got a good deal myself. I had to put on a new suspension arm, and servo(he gave me an extra because he knew it was stripped), and I was ready to roll. I have been driving it all day with a 15t dynamite motor in it, and with the stock, bald back tires, i cant hold it on the road.lol The tranny is making a noise or 2, but if it breaks, ill just have to fix it. Everything on it is in good shape, and overall, i think i made a good trade. Id always wanted to try one out, so i guess i got my chance. It seems like a good truck, and he already has a blue aluminum bulkhead, and both front aluminum C-hubs on it :D . I think im gonna buy some pro-line dirt hawg tires for the back, and leave the front stock for now. I have a question though: Can i tighten the ball differential up very tight, and leave it like that so it doesent slip if i want? He had it pretty loose when i got it, and i tightened it up, after the first pack i ran through it. Overall im pleased with it, and im planning on keeping it i guess, and heck, i might even race it once or twice this summer if i get the chance. I will have pictures up tonight hopefully. Thanks for any help.

Eric

philp37

04-09-2004, 07:39 PM

Hey Cummins Driver. Thats not a good deal. You robbed the poor guy. Congratulations. Sounds like you made off like a bandit. :D

orbitron

04-09-2004, 08:40 PM

I reccomend the team losi smasher tires. They are sooo good!
http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/smasher.htm

orbitron

04-09-2004, 08:40 PM

oops double post.

You got a great deal by the way.

cummins driver

04-09-2004, 08:51 PM

Thanks for the compliments guys. I will try to get some pictures up in a minute. You all are making me feel like i went to his house and took it from him.lol He really wanted my nitro, so that was fine with me. I was at the hobby shop to get a new battery when i met him, and told him i would trade, and so i didnt buy a new battery, so that will go into back tires, and maybe bearings for the front whees(have bushings in them for some reason). I like the smashers, but i think ill go for something that would be good on the road too. What kind of sound does the diff. make when its slipping? When i drive it i can hear the gearbox make kind of a loud POP every now and then, but im thinking it is because the gears are slipping, or stripping some.lol No big deal, if they are really. I hasve drove the truck some more, and i really like it. I also got about 5 good, working motors from what i could count. Im feeling better about me buying that nitro truck in the first place all the time. I figured id be lucky to get about $60 for it, but man; ive got more than that in just 2 motors with this. Im excited.lol Hopefully ill have some pics up in a sec.

Eric

cummins driver

04-09-2004, 09:22 PM

Pictures!

cummins driver

04-09-2004, 09:25 PM

Body off:

cummins driver

04-09-2004, 09:27 PM

batteries, motors, and tackle box full of stuff:

pudder

04-10-2004, 09:12 AM

Are those rear shocks on the front? What kind of performance are you getting with a whack setup like that?!

cummins driver

04-10-2004, 11:35 AM

It has Traxxas shocks of some kind in the rear, and some nice aluminum shocks he bought on the front. I couldnt tell you how it handles set-up like that or anything, because i cant tell the difference between a good setup truck, and a truck setup thats bad. I wanted a little more ride height so i set it up some

Eric

philp37

04-10-2004, 02:47 PM

They do look like rear shocks on the front. By the way. I have noticed alot of evaders using what look like losi springs. Anybody know which losi spring matches up to the soft (white) duratrax springs for the evader?

philp37

04-11-2004, 04:16 PM

Orbitron... you once told me which servo you are using... but I cant find the info again. Also anybody out there who is happy with an upgrade to the stock 3003 servo that comes with the evader. Size seems tricky... lotsa 1.5" high better airplane servos out there for reasonable price. But the 1.4" high market does not seem to have as many entries in the mid price market. I dont want to pay 100 bucs for a servo. But I do want more torque, more speed, 2 BB, and metal gears.

pudder

04-11-2004, 05:31 PM

Hitec 525 MG. I think it's around $50.00. I have two of these servos, I have never had a problem with either of them and I have given them a good beating. They have all metal gears, dual bb, and over 100 oz/in of torque. Check one out.

cummins driver

04-11-2004, 05:42 PM

Well guys, ive already stripped the idler.lol It makes a horrible grinding noise any time your on the throttle.lol What i just cant get over is how fast, and easy it was to get into the tranny compared to my stampede. I really like how easy it was to get in there. The gear is not really stripped, but it has kind of a bad spot, and i think its getting wore down, all the way around. Im going to order an aluminum idler gear sometime soon, along with some back tires. Will this fix all my tranny problems with the aluminum idler? Is there anything special I need to know about anything while im putting it in. I know exactly how to put it in, but are there any problems I might run into? Also, the wheels seem pretty crappy on this thing. They are all busted up, but i will probably still use them. Which Losi wheels will fit? I think my stampede is built better all around, but the evader has some nice features, and seems to be great for the price. I jumped it some today, and it did really good. Its fun to jump, and i havent broken anything on it yet, except the idler. Thanks for any help.

Eric

pudder

04-11-2004, 06:04 PM

There's nothing as far as I can think of that you need to do... Just make sure that you put a little bit extra lube on the gears since there will be metal on metal contact between the top shaft gear and the idler. Use a high quality lube.

Other than that, nothing special you need to do. I wish metal idlers were out when I had my evader :rolleyes:

Losi rims for the XXX-T will fit the Evader.

Hope thats all you wanted to know...

cummins driver

04-11-2004, 06:09 PM

The aluminum idler is like $18! Thats just a dagone rip off. How long will a stock plastic one hold me with a 15t double if i dont try doing wheelies by slamming it to forward from reverse? I could stand to switch out an idler every now and then if it would hold me a while. I would just order about 3 plastic ones since they're only like $1.95 a piece. I hate to spend that kind of $ for a darn idler. What sould i do? Im buying tires too, so it will come out to like $30 for both if i get the aluminum one.

Eric

pudder

04-11-2004, 06:14 PM

I'm not sure on pricing since I live in Canada.

That is a bit high to pay for an idler, but do you know how much fun you can have with it? As well, every time you blow up a plastic one, you won't have to take apart your truck and clean all the teeth out of it. In the end, it's really worth it. I though the same thing with my stampede, but it is worth the price to have peace of mind. :cool:

cummins driver

04-11-2004, 06:22 PM

I guess your right, but man, that just seems expensive.lol I only paid like $11 for my aluminum idler in my stampede. Thats $6 more for nothing. It does come with an aluminum shaft too, but i dont even need that. My LHS probably doesent have it, so ill have to order from tower hobbies, but im gonna call the LHS, and make sure. I guess with any hobby, you spend a lot of $. If the LHS just has a plastic gear, i think ill get it, and see if i can make it last a while.lol :D It just makes me feel better to spread out using my money. It just seems like ive spent a lot on this the past few months. I bought a piston/sleeve for the truck i traded for this($58), and a new ESC, and motor for my stampede($65), 4 tires/wheels(used)($15) fuel for my nitro when i was trying to get it running($16). I have some stock front stampede tires i COULD use, but i would rather just get some new ones, and leave them on my stampede. Oh well. Ill see what happens. Thanks

Eric

cummins driver

04-11-2004, 06:25 PM

Im starting to think i would have been better off to of bought a savage in the first place, and just buy parts and fuel for it, and have a big nitro truck.lol Oh well. I would have spent a lot on it too probably.

Eric

orbitron

04-11-2004, 07:26 PM

Philip37 - Hitech HS625mg no ball bearings but no complaints either.

cummins driver - the drift pin on the tranny (where the sliper is) is near impossible to pull. Get a finishing nail and drive that sucker out on a concrete floor. Also any rim that fits on a XXX-T is fine. I've found that traxxas ones work ok but you have to torque them down and put a washer in the spline hole.

Check out my website for additional tidbits http://www.orbitracing.tk

guver

04-12-2004, 09:20 PM

Another good servo is the ts and hs and cs 70 mg. They are metal gear ball bearing hi-torks.

pudder

04-13-2004, 08:31 AM

orbitron, what are you talking about? The HS625 has dual ball bearings. I have taken mine apart, plus it says on Tower's site.

sddavis29

04-16-2004, 09:44 PM

hey i have a problem with the steering everytime i let go of the wheel it doesnt go back straightand when i go to mess with the trim setting it stays turned the other direction also i had to put tread lock on the servo arm it keeps getting loose and then it wont turn at all i need some help cause i dont know what to do its not the stck servo

guver

04-16-2004, 09:48 PM

It sounds like possibly you've used the wrong servo arm (spline) and it slipping on the spline or is stripped because of getting loose. If not maybe the servo gears inside the servo are stripped. If this is the case, you'll hear the servo trying to move after letting go of the steering wheel.

philp37

04-17-2004, 12:18 AM

Another good servo is the ts and hs and cs 70 mg. They are metal gear ball bearing hi-torks.

Exactly how did you fit a 1.48" high servo into the evader EP frame??

sddavis29

04-17-2004, 01:02 AM

i used the arm that comes with the evader should i use another one

orbitron

04-17-2004, 02:23 AM

pudder - Oh really I didn't know. I just heard it was good and bought it.

sddavis - The servo arm depends on the brand of servo you use. If you have a futaba servo the original servo arm will be fine. If not find out which brand you have and buy a servo horn that will work. I bought an Associated servo horn tree and had good luck (but I have no clue what the part number is).

pudder

04-17-2004, 09:52 AM

That does sound like it's the servo horn slipping on the splines. If you don't have any servo horns to test on it, go down to your local hobby shop and you should be able to figure out what it is there, and then get a proper servo horn for your vehicle.

elgordo

04-17-2004, 01:08 PM

Hi pudder

On your "How To Index" You display a Trinity (?) standard / p94 brush hood alignment tool. I have been searching for a supplier of this item everywhere with no success. Is it possible that they are available in Canada. If so, could you email me the name of a supplier. Thank You!
elgordogfs@earthlink.net

RaceDog

04-19-2004, 10:54 AM

pudder

04-19-2004, 11:03 AM

Just sounds like the teeth are slipping on the splines of the servo shaft. I've had it happen before, and that's exactly what happened.

philp37

04-19-2004, 11:12 AM

The Evader's servo arm splines are made of cheese. I have bags and bags of the rest of the servo arm stuff because I keep needing the splined horn. I have read a recomendation to modify the spring in the servo saver to reduce it's tension.... I think I am going to try it.

pudder

04-19-2004, 11:19 AM

You can use a regular servo horn for your Evader. I broke so many of those **** suckers I threw on a fairly long Futaba servo horn I had lying around. The mounting position was almost the same, and it had just as good performance, plus they aren't made of cheese. :rolleyes:

Mastec

04-19-2004, 02:27 PM

I have read a recomendation to modify the spring in the servo saver to reduce it's tension.... I think I am going to try it.

I have done the mod on mine and all is well. Have yet to strip gears. Where top and bottom part of the servo saver meet, dont forget to use fine sandpaper to smooth out the peaks. Removing the sharp edges off the peaks makes the servo saver slide better.

guver

04-20-2004, 01:06 AM

Exactly how did you fit a 1.48" high servo into the evader EP frame??

Same way I fit 8 cells flat in there. Battery is up against servo.

biggjimmie

04-21-2004, 04:23 PM

howdy,
i have never painted my own body before and was wondering how hard it would be to paint one. so all the neat stickers i see on others trucks, are those on the inside of the truck before you paint? does the stickers the hobby shop sell let the paint under the tape?
i know my ?'s mit be alittle weird, but i want to get it right the first time.

thanks much,
jimmie

orbitron

04-21-2004, 04:56 PM

jimmie - http://www.rctech.net/articles/painting_hauntedmyst.shtml
http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/htShake_1.asp
Stickers usually go on the outside after it's painted (they're clear) it's easy to paint but it's also easy to screw up. Always remember many light coats are better than one or two heavy ones!

biggjimmie

04-21-2004, 05:48 PM

howdy,
i am going to use the jackal interal stickers that are like a temp tattoo stuff. i have always had a buddy paint the bodys for me but since he moved i must do it myself.

vipgonza

04-22-2004, 11:21 PM

Has somebody tried this gadget?

biggjimmie

04-23-2004, 12:02 AM

howdy,
i also have another question that has most likly been answered before, and i have seached until i believe my eyes could start bleeding, so i hope this doesn't make anyone mad.

does anyone know of a metal spur gear that fits the evader elec. st?

pudder

04-23-2004, 08:11 AM

Nope, I don't think there are any companies that make metal spur gears for the Evader. You really don't need one, as long as you mesh your gears correctly.

biggjimmie

04-25-2004, 12:32 PM

howdy,
right now i am running 88t 48p spur and a 48p 20t pinion with masher 2000 tires. so its stock with larger tires, which works out to be 4.4 ratio. so the ? or my thought is that if i lower the 4.4 ratio to around 4.0 i will gain speed but not torque, and if i was to rasie it from 4.4 to around 4.7 i would gain torque but lose speed. so i have pretty much answered my own question, so now i will come up with a ratio chart for all the pinions and spur combos, to help everyone else out. but stock is a 4.4 which seems i little torque to me.

pudder

04-25-2004, 08:01 PM

The stock pinion is what? About 20 teeth, I'd say try going down to maybe a 17 tooth, if the stock pinion is 20 teeth, I'd just gear down 3 teeth from whatever it is.

biggjimmie

04-25-2004, 09:22 PM

so would a robinson racing pinion with a 48p 17t work with the duratrax 48p 88t spur work. the pitch is right and i am a newbie to the rc thing but i know my autos.

jimmie

pudder

04-25-2004, 10:41 PM

Yes, that pinion would work.

megaman

04-26-2004, 01:27 AM

mmkay guys, i want one of these, ive been following this and decided that i wanted to get racing and figured this was a sure fire bet especially since i like the "underdogs". i figure i might as well get the st pro, since its a step above the st EP, plus the graphite and remote are a bonus as well, i would like to have that that way i could buy extra recievers for my other RC's, and have a good controller...this is a big rant to basically say the inevitable..but i want an evader. =) so...what would be some good cheap batts to start with? i already have a nimh charger and stuff...but what all else should i get?

Mastec

04-26-2004, 06:19 AM

You will enjoy the Evader ST, I have 1 nitro and 3 electric. I race and bash with the nitro and my kids play with the electrics. If you're going with the electric, replace the truck and battery connectors with Dean's plugs or something similar. The current Tamiya connectors will suck the juice right out of your battery. My kids use 3000 mAh NiMH batteries from Racers-Edge, gives them alot of run time and power. Also, check out this site, http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/ alot of useful tips for the Evader BX and ST. I made the mentioned modification to my stock servo saver and the stock servo is still going strong with the same gears.

biggjimmie

04-26-2004, 03:43 PM

thoght i would post some pics of my evader. i have been piecen it together from ebay and towerhobbies. now that i have it running i will come the build going. i just can't want for the pro to come out so i can get some graf parts on it. it's not for racing just for fun.

biggjimmie

04-26-2004, 03:44 PM

next picture from the side

biggjimmie

04-26-2004, 03:45 PM

next pic from the front with the first bumper i have made next is still a proto-type.

biggjimmie

04-26-2004, 03:47 PM

last pic with body off

Mastec

04-26-2004, 06:35 PM

My oval wheels & tires
http://www.dcm-et.com/car/oval.jpg

My offroad setup
http://www.dcm-et.com/car/offroad.jpg

biggjimmie

04-26-2004, 10:51 PM

ok right now i have the photon speed motor. i am wanting to up the motor to a rebuildable one. i'm look at the p2k2 or p2k, but this is for a little fun/bashing around. right now i am running a 17t pinion with 88t spur with masher 2000 tires, and i have a tekin rebel esc that i stoled off my old dead tamiya hummer. the rebel has never let me down.

so the question is, i ask you all cause you know the downlow, what is a good motor for bashing, and what if any gearing do i need to look into? also i am sorry i ask so many questions.

pudder

04-26-2004, 11:12 PM

Nice pics guys. I really like the tire/rim combo biggjimmie!

About the motor, I reccomend getting a Trinity Chameleon 2. They are good all round motors which provide great acceleration, torque, and RPM. I had one about a year back and it served me well. I'm not sure about gearing for the Evader with this motor. I would gear it about 2 teeth down from the photon, but I'm not sure how great that would be.

RaceDog

04-28-2004, 10:01 AM

Hey Mastec, that's a sweet paint job!

I'm looking for advice on front tires. I've never ventured away from putting the ribbed tires on the front. I'm thinking I would like the look of some Dirt Hawgs or other high treads on both the front and the back tires, but before I do it, I'm wondering what to expect as far as handling and performance. Will it slow the car down? Will it give it better or worse handling?

Mastec

04-28-2004, 11:56 AM

I have never tried the Dirt Hawgs but I raced at a track where the surface was between packed and loose. I used Bowties on the back and Hole Shots for steering. Grabbed a little more when turning but didnt take me long to get used to it. I think you would be happy with the Dirt Hawgs. Have to get me some of those too. :)

biggjimmie

04-28-2004, 03:15 PM

hey pudder what do you think about the VENOM RACING 15 X 2 FIREBALL MODIFIED MOTOR ? they seem cheap and pretty well made. they are only $18 for lightingrc.

pudder

04-28-2004, 05:06 PM

I'm really not sure about Venom motors. I've never tried one, or even really seen one. I'm sure they'd be alright, but not as good as a more expensive motor. Maybe you could try to look for some reviews on it on the internet?

biggjimmie

04-28-2004, 05:34 PM

from their website i got that the fireball modified is rebuildable, epoxy balanced, diamond trued, capable of high RPM's due to hi-power lay-down brushes and dual ball bearings. additional features include pre-wired bullet plugs and factory installed capacitors.

so i am going to order one and see how it works. this weekend i am going to pick up a chameleon 2. and test the both of them.
jimmie

Mastec

04-28-2004, 09:06 PM

archiebunker

04-30-2004, 05:06 PM

My oval wheels & tires
http://www.dcm-et.com/car/oval.jpg

My offroad setup
http://www.dcm-et.com/car/offroad.jpg

Hi,

What kind of body are you using for your Evader ST in these pictures?

biggjimmie

04-30-2004, 08:16 PM

it looks like a nitro evader st body.

Mastec

04-30-2004, 08:47 PM

The green Nitro Evader body. I am planning on changing it, been looking at that body for 3 months now and its getting old. Thinking about going to a Volkswagon Baja body.

biggjimmie

05-05-2004, 11:15 AM

howdy,
well last night at the races, i tripled a double, went off the track over the wall and hit a pinic table, all in the air. i broke the front right arm right off. so now i am ordering a set of alum. arms.
here's a pic.

frebby

05-10-2004, 10:56 AM

All,
I broke a rear hub a few weeks back and when it happened i was so pissed that i'd have more downtime I forgot to discharge my 1500mah packs. Over the weekend i got my new tires, hub, etc installed and went outside for a run or two. After about 1-2 mins of running my evader came to a halt. I tried the other pack..same results. I then discharged both packs fully and charged them again until they were warm. I let the packs cool fully (30mins under a fan) and tried again w/the same results. What could be causing this? The last time it happened it was the crappy brushes on the crappy photon wearing down. I did have my photon in so i pulled it and replaced the brushes..same result. I put my Orion Rush 17x2 in and it did the exact same thing so i'm guessing i toasted my packs by leaving them charged for so long? Any assistance greatly appreciated.

guver

05-10-2004, 12:55 PM

frebby

05-10-2004, 01:02 PM

frebby, I doubt you hurt your packs at all by leaving them set for a week or two. I would bet on the brushes even though you swapped motors. Try putting the ev on a stand with the throttle trim cranked clockwise (or the throttle pulled) and the motor acting up and then carefully push in on a brush with a pencil or a tool. It more likely that your pack didn't charge than they went bad, but I don't think your problem is in the bats at all.

Thanks Guver. You still think it's the brushes even though i replaced them in the photon? The last time it happened on the photon i went out bought some new brushes...6 of them to be exact. I put two new ones in the photon and it perked up instantly and began to run again. So this time i took the brushes out, replaced them and i'm still having the same issue. The reason i pointed to the batts is because it happened on my Rush motor as well. Something is constant betwen those two scenarios and me spidey sense points to the packs. Then again i'm a noob so i could be wrong. I'm a network tech so i'm trying to troubleshoot the way i do a system. I can't understand how it could be the brushes. I just don't want to drop the money for new batts and have that not be it. :confused:

orbitron

05-10-2004, 01:16 PM

ESC ESC ESC it's not very good at all. Did you maybe get it even slightly wet?

frebby

05-10-2004, 01:18 PM

ESC ESC ESC it's not very good at all. Did you maybe get it even slightly wet?

LOL..well, there is the small fact that i have been running a 17x2 on a stock esc rated for 20t and up. DOH! :o
Thanks All! I'll pick up a new esc. Any recommendations that won't break the bank?

orbitron

05-10-2004, 01:22 PM

futaba mc230cr or 330cr

guver

05-10-2004, 04:17 PM

It sounds like you can keep using the process of elimination to isolate the bad item. I'm kinda poor, so I don't buy anything unless I know for sure it's bad. I always kick myself in the butt if I buy a new item and find out later it is giving the same trouble as the thing I replaced.

RaceDog

05-14-2004, 11:49 AM

Frebby, Your problem sounds very similar to one I've been trying to troubleshoot. My Evader dies on the track, especially after a hard landing. I know the battery is connected and working because the steering servo works, but the engine is just dead. I thought it was the brushes and replaced those, but still had the problem. I replaced the photon motor with a P2K, but I haven't had the chance to test it enough to know if that fixes it. If not, the next step is going to be the motor leads or the ESC. I would be very interested to know what your solution ends up being.

The Modfather

05-17-2004, 11:48 AM

I'm gonna buy an Evader ST (electric) for myself. Bought one for the son a while back - and figured it's be nice for us to each have one.

I'd like to know if anyone has purchased any hop-up items for their Evader, and if so, which ones? So far, I KNOW I'll be replacing the ESC, the motor, the servo, and the radio/receiver. Can you guys offer any other suggestions on parts that I should replace? I'm not gonna be racing this competitively, but I will be hitting the local track and running around.

I saw on Duratrax's site a number of aluminum hopup parts - I'd like to replace some or all of the plastic parts w/ the available aluminum parts - and again, I'm looking for input here.

Thanks in advance guys (and gals?). Looking forward to hearing from you.

philp37

05-17-2004, 02:10 PM

Thats a great idea. Owning multiple evaders. I own three, and it gives me a great opportunity to try things out and compare them to the units I have. It affords the ability to change out parts when trouble shooting, radios, recevers ESC's and motors. Plus every member of our family can join in on the fun. Impromptu race right after supper!! I do find that even with my large parts stock, it is difficult to keep all three running at once, but by ordering parts to keep all three running, there is parts availability in house to keep at least two going.

Mastec

05-17-2004, 03:57 PM

My kids and I have 4 Evader ST's, 1 Nitro and 3 electrics. Before buying my Evader I read on here and other sites about the stock shock towers not holding up so the day bought mine I replaced them with graphite parts for the Losi XXT. The two vehicles are very similar. HERE (http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/exploded/xxt.pdf) is the link to the exploded view and part numbers. There is also a aluminum diff and idler gear which is worth adding, tranny runs smooth as silk. Go to this SITE (http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/), he has some great tips. I did the mod for the steering servo saver as he suggested and we have not tore up one gear in the stock servos. I have to take off, if I can think of anything else I will post it if nobody else does.

philp37

05-17-2004, 04:05 PM

I bought extra shock towers as well, but have never needed them. There are very few parts that I havn't needed, but I do have another anomoly; I have never had any transmission problems. I rebuilt the one with the most use, but it was pretty good inside other than some grit that was building up.

orbitron

05-17-2004, 07:47 PM

Get the graphite front shock tower, the alum hinge pin brace, and perhaps hubs. Why don't you buy the pre-built if you're going to replace all the electronics anyway?

The Modfather

05-18-2004, 12:06 PM

Get the graphite front shock tower, the alum hinge pin brace, and perhaps hubs. Why don't you buy the pre-built if you're going to replace all the electronics anyway?

Thanks for the advice!

I have an old RC10T that needs a radio and receiver - so I'll take teh one that comes with the Evader and put it on the 10T for friends or whatever. Only like $30 difference or so - not that big of a deal really :)

I do have to ask tho - is it really worth it to hop up the Evader, or would I be better off putting my money elsewhere (different truck)?

Thanks again.

Mastec

05-18-2004, 03:51 PM

The Modfather

05-18-2004, 05:17 PM

I do not regret hopping up my Evaders. I have 3 electrics and 1 nitro. Personally its been a blast. My kids and I have more fun working on and improving them rather than having something that you store away at the end of the day until the next time out.

I think that you and I are on the same page. I could buy a super expensive top of the line model, but I'd rather enjoy paying a little less, and hopping it up - while giving my son the ability to work on his right along with me.

I have quite an extensive list of hop up parts that I'm looking to purchase - and I fear that I may not "need" them all - ugh - but hell, I'm probably gonna do it anyway - simply cuz I can ;)

philp37

05-18-2004, 06:23 PM

Mastec

05-18-2004, 06:51 PM

I am gonna add a BX Pro to my collection as well. I used to race buggy years ago and they are a blast to play with. I used to own and race an RC10 gold tub conversion and it was so bullet proof it wasnt funny. I raced 3 times a week and very rarely did I have to do anything to it except clean the motor and change the shock oil to the different track design. My race days were packing everything up, go to the track and race, get home and unpack everything. I burned out real quick so I quit. Fifteen years later I am getting back into it with the Evaders and a very happy camper.

The Modfather

05-18-2004, 07:14 PM

Modfather. I would also consider the Evader Pro, comes with many of the hop ups and a little better radio. Thinking of adding one to my stable of trucks. Or maybe the BX to gain some experience with Buggys.
That is actually on my list. I am gettin the bare bones one, as I want the Airtronics radio and already have an ESC.

In fact, here is a list of the stuff that I have on my "wish list" - Currently tipping the scales @ $600. Would like input if there are parts here that are not necessary.

DuraTrax Evader Pro EP ST Prebuilt w/Clear Body
Airtronics MX-3 3-Channel FM/2 94102Z Servos
Trinity P2k2 Pro Stock Motor
Team Orion V-Maxx Super Duty 2400 E-Maxx Battery (2)
W.S. Deans Female Ultra Plug (4)
DuraTrax Idler Gear Alum Evader Series
DuraTrax Knuckle Arm Aluminum Blue Evader ST (2)
DuraTrax Transmission Brace Rear Aluminum Blue EvaderST
DuraTrax Hub Rear Aluminum Blue Evader ST (2)
DuraTrax Hub Carrier Aluminum Blue Evader ST (2)
DuraTrax Heat Sink/Motor Mount Blue Evader ST
DuraTrax Turnbuckle Set Titanium w/Wrench EVST (6)
DuraTrax Shock Set Rear Blue Evader ST (2)
DuraTrax Shock Set Front Blue Evader ST (2)
DuraTrax Sway Bar Kit Front Evader ST
DuraTrax Sway Bar Kit Rear Evader ST
DuraTrax Front Hinge Pin Plate Aluminum Blue Evader ST
RPM Heavy 4-40 Rod Ends (12)

philp37

05-18-2004, 10:19 PM

The Modfather

05-19-2004, 12:44 AM

I believe the prebuilt version of the pro comes with the ESC. Just less radio, receiver, crystals, and servo. At least that is the case with the EP version of the evader. I purchased one of my stadium trucks in the prebuilt version and the sprint ESC was included. You do however have a big enough hop up list, that an Evader pro or a losi Matt Francis should be a consideration. You will find that buying hop ups in a kit greatly reduce the cost.

Yeah, I have the Pro on the list - that is my main reason for posting my hop up list in here - hoping someone can shed some light if I am maybe being wasteful in the stuff I am planning on ordering, or (in the same breath) if I have inadvertently missed anything that can make our RC'ing more enjoyable.

Thanks again for the input!

biggjimmie

05-19-2004, 10:01 PM

Modfather you might want to look at some of the golden horizons alum parts. i have their rear hubs, front c hubs, knuckle arms, front control arms, and their front shock tower. i still need their rear shock tower. but i am going to get the duratrax's front and rear bulk heads. i just can't wait to get a pro chassis and rear trans plate with rear arms mount.

The Modfather

05-20-2004, 12:12 PM

biggjimmie

05-20-2004, 12:59 PM

sorry forgot the link :o http://www.ghhobby.com/products.php?cat=23
also you can check out tower hobbies for some of their stuff.

mrplaty

05-20-2004, 11:04 PM

Hello, I'm new to the whole RC car/truck world, got an Evader a couple weeks ago. Ran thru about a dozen times on my 3000ma packs with the truck. I adjusted the diff per the manual after about 3-4 runs, but now last couple runs my truck makes a squeeling noise, which doesn't seem to go away no matter how tight or loose I make the diff. I tried adjusting the slipper tighter and looser, but still there. I noticed the top speed and power don't seem to be there either. Also when I let off the gas it and coast it slows down faster, like something is dragging in the motor or gear box.

Ideas? When I read about tightening and then backing off 1/8 turn, how tight is tight? Just snug by a little finger pressure, or should a crank on it a little, then back off 1/8?
Read thru the great info posted on this site, but a lot of it went over my head, and didn't get a clear picture of the diff except that it is important to set it and slipper up right.
REALLY fun hobby, but am struggling a little with the learning curve.
thanks! Mr.platy

Mastec

05-20-2004, 11:48 PM

Just snug it with the allen wrench, then back it out. Another way to make sure your diff is right is to hold the truck so it faces away from you. Grab the back right tire and place a finger on the spur gear to hold it. Try turning the left wheel, it should barely move with a lot of resistance. If you can easily turn it the diff is way too loose.

guver

05-22-2004, 06:45 PM

While you're doing that watch the slipper. It should slip way b-4 the diff does.you'll see the spring and shaft spinning with the left wheel. If it's not then it's the diff slipping.

OR Temporarily titen slipper all the way, check diff, then reset slipper clutch.In otherwords you can't check the diff when the slipper clutch is slipping.

Hope this makes sense.

Megazone23

05-24-2004, 02:32 PM

Hello, all -- after about 3 months of intense over-analyzing, I bit the bullet and bought an Evader ST RTR! My wife bought me a Radio Shack Lightning for Christmas two years ago, and that only served to reawaken my inner child. So for those people who bash the Radio Shack RCs, they can't be all that bad if they can lead someone like me to my lhs to buy a hobby-grade truck.

I gotta say, I was expecting a difference, but nowhere this big. I was truly amazed at how much smoother the Evader runs. Real shocks will do that, I suppose. Truth be told, I was somewhat expecting it to be disappointing after reading a lot of peoples' opinions of the Photon motor and the Evader chassis, but I'm loving this truck as it is. I've already worn some of the pins off of the rear tires! :D I can only imagine how it will handle with an upgraded motor, ESC, etc.

Bang for buck, I don't think you can beat this rig. I looked at the Losi XXX-T and the Associate T4, but I think you pay a pretty hefty premium for the names.

I thought about waiting for the Evader ST Pro RTR, but after some emails to Hobbico, I determined that it's just vapor-ware at this point. They couldn't even tell me for sure that the pre-built would ship for sure in June. Since I'm not planning on racing, I figured the flex of the regular chassis was more important than the stiffness of the graphite.

Right now I'm fighting the urge to go out and buy a bunch of upgrades!

Mastec

05-24-2004, 03:30 PM

It's a great little truck, happy to hear you enjoy it. When the Pro is released you can add the graphite to your truck no problem. If you have any questions just give a shout, there are plenty of us Evader owners here that will be glad to help you out.

dolfan03

05-24-2004, 08:50 PM

lets see pics of everyones evader"s.im getting one soon ,and i was wondering what wheels/rims will work on the truck.

philp37

05-24-2004, 11:18 PM

Dolfan, Duratrax or Losi wheels will fit and work on the truck. Wheels made for Associated do not.

Mastec

05-24-2004, 11:22 PM

Dump the stock rims when you get a chance, they are real brittle and will fall apart. Almost any rims for Losi will fit the Evaders. I have Talonz with Striker II's on mine.
http://home.comcast.net/~w.howardjr/23818741509_330_2.jpg

dolfan03

05-24-2004, 11:39 PM

thanks for the info, any certain bodies work on the evader or are all the 1/10 scale off-road trucks the same.

orbitron

05-25-2004, 12:01 AM

dolfan - check out my website http://www.orbitracing.tk it's got some pics of mine and a few other's evaders.

Megazone23

05-25-2004, 12:17 AM

Can you guys help clarify something for me? If I understand correctly (which is questionable at best) the lower the number of turns a motor has, the faster it is.
Q1: Does "faster" mean it runs at higher rpms?

So given the above, a 19T motor is faster than a 20T motor. I've seen 2 motors recommended highly in this forum, a) the Chameleon 2 and b) the P2K2. I went to www.TowerHobbies.com and looked at each of these, and the Chameleon 2 Pro is a 19Tx1, whereas the P2K2 Pro is 27Tx1. Now if I remember correctly, the stock Photon is a 20Tx1. If turns is directly related to speed, then the Chameleon 2 is fastest, followed by the much-maligned Photon, followed distantly by the 27T P2K2. Obviously in real world applications, this does not seem to be the case.
Q2: What am I missing here?
Q3: Why is it the P2K2 Pro is a 27T yet is a much better motor than the 20T Photon?

Q4: At what number of turns does the run speed vs. run time trade-off really start to show?

Q5: What are your opinions of the m.troniks ESCs? (I only ask since they seem to be the only out-of-the-box waterproof ESCs available. Could make for some fun racing!)

Thanks in advance and sorry if these are really dumba$$ questions. :)

orbitron

05-25-2004, 09:58 AM

lower turns = higher rpms (due to less weight in the armature)
analysis is correct but why is a bmw six cylinder faster than a hyundai six cylinder
that's all I know.
I just got a p2k copperhead and it slams the photon (27t vs 20t) It has more torque so if you gear it right it will perform better.
I think there is a motor class called spec and it is 19t perhaps getting a racing spec class motor would be the best all round option for speed and run time.

biggjimmie

05-25-2004, 01:39 PM

howdy,
right now i am running a venom fireball 17d, 17 pinion, 88 spur, 2300 MaH, and a 2055 t-maxx servo. i get about 30 minutes out of the set-up. it's fast, and that with the masher 2000 tires. it threws up a heck of alot of dirt and rocks. i don't know much of the R/C world but the set-up works for me.

Megazone23

05-25-2004, 01:48 PM

What?! A BMW six cylinder is faster than a Hyundai six cylinder?! BLASPHEMY!! ;)

Point taken. Is there anywhere to compare the motor performance specs, like you could for a car or motorcycle?

New Question: What's the difference between stock motors and modifieds? hand-wound and machine-wound? And when I say "difference", I don't mean "Well, one is stock and the other is modified" -- how do they differ in design/build and what effect does it have on performance/power/etc.?

elecracr

05-25-2004, 04:06 PM

Ok, a stock motor is a 27 turn motor with 27 degrees locked timing, this means you have faster speeds, but more maintenance than a lowered timing mark. A stock 27 turn motor is similar in speed to a 17 turn modified motor when geared correctly. Hand wound means the armature wire is handwound, thus making a better motor with more torque and rpms. And many 19 turn motors are spec class and are comparable to 15 turn modifieded motors. A modified motor is often built with adjustable timing, and down to around 6 turns. The stock esc can go down to 17 turn modified motors even though it is rated for 20.

orbitron

05-25-2004, 07:47 PM

Yeah my Hyundai always gets angry when I say things like that... now I've got to replace it's belts. Sorry little Hyundai :o

Megazone23

05-25-2004, 11:55 PM

Thanks for the quick and dirty on motors, elecracr. I never would have thought that this hobby was so involved! So many new things to learn. :)

I'm getting twitchy, because the last two nights I've gotten home from work too late to take the truck out.

I've got some coupons to burn before the end of the month at my lhs, and was thinking about getting another set of wheels and tires. Maybe some of those RPM Clawz with the Dirt Hawg IIs. I think that would add a little personality.

Is it even worth the effort to boil the stock wheels to remove these tires when they go bald, or should I just keep them around for some slicks when I want to just cruise the parking lot, harassing the squirrels and pigeons?

I'm also thinking about getting the aluminum pin brace. Any other parts that are must-be-aluminum?

What is everyone's opinions of the Intellispeed ESCs? Is it worth upgrading, or would it be better to just stick with something like the Chameleon 2 or P2K2 that could just be swapped out with maybe a pinion change? (Just planning for the future here)

Megazone23

05-26-2004, 10:32 AM

Ok, I was checking out Tower Hobbies last night (very dangerous, I know) and also saw Pro-Line's Speed Hawg II and Road Hawg II tires. They look like they might also be good for street/off-road use. Does anyone have any experience with these?

The places I have available to run are mostly on the streets, grass, and the occasional trip to the baseball infield. :D

pudder

05-26-2004, 12:30 PM

I wouldnt bother boiling the stock tires and rims. I tried this once before, ended up warping my rim and never even got the damn tire off from boiling. I prefer to just cut the tires off the rims if I want to, but buying new rims and tires are usually just the easiest thing to do, unless you have nice rims that you want to re use.

I have the Road Hawg II's and have tried them on dirt and gravel before. They work okay, but slide around quite a bit still. However, this can make for some fun driving. They are also horrible on grass and tend to spin a lot. On pavement the tires are amazing though. I'd only get them if you are going to be using them about 90% for onroad driving.

Mastec

05-26-2004, 12:54 PM

I have Road Hawg II's also and they are pretty good. They last a lot longer than the Striker's on pavement. I have gone thru 2 gallons of Nitro with the Road Hawg's on and show no wear at all. But like pudder says, they suck on the track. If you ever get the urge to wanna race on a clay oval, get the Striker's. They have awesome grip. Don't boil or bake the staock rims, they will turn out looking like some kind of abstract art. LOL (But my tires did come off)

Megazone23

05-26-2004, 03:39 PM

I think I'm leaning towards the Speed Hawgs -- it looks like the tread blocks are big enough to handle off-road suties while providing enough surface area to stick on the road. I'd say my driving break down will be 50% road / 35% grass & ditches / 15% dirt.

I doubt I'm ever going to race, since the guy at my lhs said pretty much no one races electric around here, and I don't know that I have enough time to devote to it.

Megazone23

05-26-2004, 04:35 PM

Yet another question re: RPM wheels. Does anyone have any experience with them? The guy at my lhs said that he quit carrying them because the hubs kept breaking out on them, but he also said he quit carrying them about a year ago.

What other chrome wheels will fit on the Evader ST?

Mastec

05-26-2004, 07:39 PM

I have been bashing and racing with RPM wheels, I have Talonz and Typhoonz. My brother and several friends have RPM wheels. I think there is more going on with your LHS than hubs breaking. Maybe he's not selling enough of them to justify supplying them and the hub breaking story is just that, a story.

I have jumped curbs, hit trees, posts, jumped down steps and hit the race track wall, not a thing has broke on mine connected with the rims.

pudder

05-26-2004, 07:53 PM

I think the guy at your LHS is a moron. RPM rims will not cause your hubs to brake, just like a new motor will not cause gears to strip -- its user error that causes this stuff to happen. :p ;)

Megazone23

05-26-2004, 10:55 PM

Well, I think he meant the center portions of the wheels themselves breaking down, not the hub piece itself. Either way, it's nice to know that you guys have run them pretty hard with good longevity, because I really like the look of the Clawz.

Unfortunately, my purchasing direction was changed this evening. I was scratching my itch to run the Evader when it took an unexpected turn on the driveway after hitting some loose gravel amid turn, hopped the edge of the driveway, flew into the ditch at what normally would have been a great angle of attack on flat ground, made a quite spectacular 4-point landing thanks to the slope of the side of the ditch, and came to a rest right side up! w00t! I became concerned when it didn't drive itself out and found out why as I got to the edge of the driveway -- the force of the landing caused the the transmission brace in the rear to break at the top-most mounting hole where the right link ties in (I think this is the camber linkage?). Looking at the mounting hole drilled in that thin section of the brace, it doesn't surprise me that it broke there (the topmost hole). And just in time for the Memorial Day Weekend! :(

So I'm considering ordering an aluminum replacement from Tower Hobbies and have it overnighted. :D Is it worth replacing the front bulkhead with an aluminum piece as well?

I was thinking of ordering the following parts (in purple, of course, since I've got the purple body):
- aluminum transmission brace for the rear
- aluminum front hinge pin brace
- aluminum front bulkhead
- threadlock, of course
- extra e-clips, since I'm sure I'll lose some figuring out how to rebuild this puppy

Is upgrading to aluminum a worthwhile investment considering the cost, or should I just buy a bunch of the plastic pieces ($26.99 for the aluminum vs. $1.79 for the plastic, or 1 aluminum piece = 15 plastic)?

As an alternative, does the Losi XXT or XXXT have a tranny brace that would fit, too? This might be a good way to hold off on the expense of aluminum upgrades, especially if my lhs has the parts.

Any advice at this point would be greatly appreciated. And I know I can send it in to DuraTrax for a replacement, but I'd hate to be out of commission especially with a long weekend coming up. :)

pudder

05-27-2004, 12:34 AM

Too bad about the Evader, but atleast you can replace with some bling!

If I were you, I'd get the aluminum parts. They do cost a lot, but they look nice and are tough as nails! Plus you get the piece of mind knowing that you won't break these parts in the future. Just to let you know, Losi's rear tranny brace is not interchangable with the Evaders.

Another little note about the RPM rims; if you break them, RPM will replace them for free, no questions asked, along with all of their other products. :)

Megazone23

05-27-2004, 12:44 AM

pudder, thanks for all the quick responses to my questions. You certainly make it easy to be a n00b trying to become a little wiser. I have a feeling I'm going to learn a hell of a lot about this truck in the coming days as I pimp it out with the new aluminum parts. I think I'm also gonna go ahead and get the Clawz with the Speed Hawg IIs.

Here are a couple more questions:
1) Is there a secret to removing the ball caps without destroying either it or the ball stud?
2) It appears that I'll have to remove the ESC from the rear shock tower to get at the screws. What's the best way to approach that without endangering the ESC?
3) Will the white 3M double-sided tape from the hardware store work just as well to replace it?

Mastec

05-27-2004, 08:16 AM

For the ball cups I just use pliers and twist or I use a allen wrench. There is a groove next to the cup, I put the allen wrench in there and pry the cup off.

Just remove the ESC and set it aside.

It should work, I have used double sided carpet tape in the past when I was in a pinch and the local hobby shop was closed.

RaceDog

05-27-2004, 09:55 AM

Hey, anybody have any experience with the Novak XRS ESC? I think my stock ESC is failing and I'm thinking of replacing it with the Novak XRS. Read a good review of it and the price is in my range. I'm not racing, just playing. Not looking to spend big $$$.

pudder

05-27-2004, 11:31 AM

megazone23-

For removing ballcups, I usually use a small pair of pliers. Just try to be gentle with removing them, grab on and twist the ballcup so that it will pop off. As long as you have a good grip on the pliers it shouldnt leave big marks on anything.

To remove the esc, you may want to use a small flathead screwdriver and slowly pry at the back of the esc. It will come off eventually, and to remove the mounting tape still on there, you can apply a little bit of motor spray and it will rub off easy.

Right now I'm using some sort of household carpet tape for my electronics and it seems to work fine. The 3M is a good brand, and as long is the tape is about the same thickness as the stock stuff, it should work great.

Racedog- The XRS looks like it should be a good ESC, and since it's made by Novak, you can be assured that it will be a quality product. Just remember it only has a 15 turn motor limit though, so if in the future you might want to get into some low turn mods, you'll have to use another esc. For the price though, I'd go for it. :)

Megazone23

05-27-2004, 12:36 PM

Ok, I just bit the bullet and placed my order at Tower Hobbies. Got the aluminum tranny brace, aluminum front bulkhead, and aluminum hinge pin plate -- all in purple to match the body. :) I rememembered in time to add threadlock since I'm now dealing with aluminum, and went ahead and got extra packs of e-clips (both sizes).

So then I figured that as long as I was replacing those pieces and would have the truck apart anyways, I went ahead and got a set of yellow plastic parts to dress it up a little -- steering bellcrank, ballcups, front bumper and motor cover. As it turns out, most of the cost was in the 3 aluminum pieces.

The downside of all of this is that I'm going to have to wait a bit to do the wheel/tire and motor upgrade. A friend of mine warned me this would happen -- the dreaded upgrade frenzy! lol

I'll post pics of it when I get everything put together. I think it'll look pretty sharp once I get the Clawz with the Speed Hawgs.

pudder

05-27-2004, 12:44 PM

I know exactly what you're talking about... I've wanted to get a new body for my Stampede for a long time now, it seems everytime I'm just about ready to buy a body, something breaks on it. :rolleyes:

I thought, since I"m here posting right now, I'd post a few pics of my Evader when I had it...

Here's some with a Kyosho Highrider body on it. The pictures were taken in november 2002.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/corvette1.jpg
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/corvette2.jpg
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/corvette3.jpg

Megazone23

05-27-2004, 01:35 PM

Very nice! One of the things I need to do is figure out a way to mount a tiny wireless camera that I have. Unfortunately, it's just the camera and the 9V battery pigtail -- no bracket or anything. I'm thinking about just taping it to the roof of the cab, and then drill a hole to pass the pigtail through to the inside, and then just find somewhere to tape the 9V battery so it doesn't rattle around.

I have it duct taped to my Radio Shack Lightning right now, and since the ride isn't nearly as smooth as the Evader's, it tends to make viewers want to refund their most recent meal. :eek:

The Modfather

05-27-2004, 02:08 PM

pudder

05-27-2004, 05:44 PM

You could always make an aluminum mount for your camera, and somehow attatch it. Perhaps you could drill a hole in the mount, and use some hot glue to keep it in?

Megazone23

05-27-2004, 08:48 PM

I'm also thinking that maybe there's a way to incorporate it into the rear shock tower, since that would give it a sturdy base, and then you could still see the hood and wheels to give you some frame of reference. Plus, then the camera could be easily mounted and removed. Lots of options, I suppose -- maybe just stay with the duct tape?

Well, my parts shipped today, so I should have them in my hot little hands tomorrow afternoon. :) Can you say "lost evening"? I knew you could! :)

Modfather, I hope you're not holding your breath for the Pro just yet. I was wanting to get that, but from every indication I got from Hobbico, they had no idea when the darn thing is going to ship. I know Tower Hobbies shows June for the prebuilt and July for the RTR, but all the responses I got was MAYBE June for the prebuilt and NO IDEA for the RTR. :( So I decided to just suck it up and get in the game with the regular ST. Probably just as well since I'm replacing a lot of the parts now. :D

biggjimmie

05-27-2004, 09:19 PM

biggjimmie

05-27-2004, 09:21 PM

hey mega, why not drill a hole in the windsheild and mount the camara inside, look a cop cam? just an idea, and it would be protected. and use a hot glue to keep in place. then get some police lights and pull other r/c's over. :rolleyes:

pudder

05-27-2004, 09:27 PM

I thought you guys might be interested in this...

It's a video I made with my digital camera mounted on my T3. The movie is over 7 mins long and 25 mb fyi.

There is both front, and rear views on the truck, and lots of high speed action!

Here is the download:

http://64.42.204.232/vid/roadcam.mpeg

philp37

05-27-2004, 11:26 PM

Orbitron, I took your advice and bought a Hitec 625, but I forgot to confirm its height before ordering it. It is 1.48" high, the stock servo is 1.40" and as I found before with a CS 65 servo, it wont fit. What modification did you make to fit yours on the Evader?

Megazone23

05-28-2004, 01:03 AM

biggjimmie, I actually did think about that, but I think the camera is wide angle enough that I'd have to remove a fairly sizable portion of the "windshield" to get an unobstructed view. This will probably be a more viable position when I get to the point where I've built up enough courage to buy a clear body and screw it up with a really nasty (see also "painted by me") paint job. ;)

Of course, I have bigger fish to fry, since it looks like I'm going to have to disassemble a really large percentage of the truck to replace all these choice upgrades I'm getting tomorrow.

orbitron

05-28-2004, 04:11 AM

philip - bolt it in. no mods needed.

The Modfather

05-28-2004, 10:35 AM

Modfather, I hope you're not holding your breath for the Pro just yet. I was wanting to get that, but from every indication I got from Hobbico, they had no idea when the darn thing is going to ship. I know Tower Hobbies shows June for the prebuilt and July for the RTR, but all the responses I got was MAYBE June for the prebuilt and NO IDEA for the RTR. :( So I decided to just suck it up and get in the game with the regular ST. Probably just as well since I'm replacing a lot of the parts now. :D
It's all good man - I dont' expect it here before mid-june - and I'm not really in a hurry. Maybe by the time I'm ready to purchase, it'll be on the market. The one concern I do have is the fact that first generation ANYTHING usually sucks - bleh.

The Modfather

05-28-2004, 10:38 AM

why wait for a pro when you can get the just a basic evader now. by doing it this way it will give you some time to get use to it. then later down the road when the parts are avaible get some ggrap parts. the only difference is the motor, by a diffent one for the basic, grap parts, buy them when they come out, diffent body, duratrax bodies suck becuase there are no windows, and wait, for get about it just by a basic now and start wheelen.

that's just how i feel, oh also i have ADD, LOL :p
Already have an ST - er - well, my son has one. Anyhow, I suppose I could do the plastic thing and upgrade that - but that seems like a lot of double work to me - and being inherently lazy, I tend to stray away from work :)

Megazone23

05-28-2004, 11:13 AM

btw, a couple people I talked to before deciding to go with the regular ST said that unless you're wanting to race it, you'd be better off getting the regular ST and upgrading the motor, electronics, and radio yourself. They said the graphite is a lot stiffer, which is better for tuning, but less forgiving of impacts, and it's not necessarily stronger than the plastic parts. Plus, when you upgrade the ST, you can pick your electronics and get an FM radio.

It all seemed to make sense to me. And later today, I'll have aluminum bits! mmm...aluminum.... ;)

The Modfather

05-28-2004, 11:33 AM

Megazone23

05-28-2004, 12:56 PM

There's a prebuilt version of the regular ST. Comes with the Duratrax Sprint ESC and and Photon Speed 20 turn motor.

Tower Hobbies has it listed for $119.99 with a green body.
Evader ST Electric Prebuilt (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFE4&P=ML)

The Modfather

05-28-2004, 02:28 PM

Wow, wish they sold one w/o ANY of the electrics - gonna upgrade teh servo, motor, ESC, and radio - seems like a waste to me :(

guver

05-28-2004, 02:32 PM

How much you give for a roller? without electronics? I have new and used.

The Modfather

05-28-2004, 03:11 PM

How much you give for a roller? without electronics? I have new and used.
please email me: modfather@fusionlangaming.com - I will be away from the PC for the rest of today, but I will get in touch with you tomorrow.

Thanks.

Megazone23

05-29-2004, 03:06 AM

Well, the FedEx guy came at 1:00P today just as I got home -- who could have asked for better timing? Because of the extent of the parts I was upgrading or swapping out, I pretty much took about the entire front end of the truck as well as a good portion of the rear. This really did a lot to build my confidence in being able to strip and rebuild this puppy.

It also really made my fingers sore -- taking apart and reassembling those tie rods and linkages is a severe pain (literally and figuratively) because the new ball cups aren't actually threaded. This means you have to press on them pretty hard to get the tie rod to start the thread, and then you have to crank on them pretty hard to continue feeding onto the thread. Then there's the whole matter of thread direction -- I think I actually have all of the tie rods and camber linkages set to adjust in the same direction. There was an upside to this exercise, though -- all the tie rods and camber linkages are now the true factory lengths. Some of them were off by as much as 3-4 mm.

I went ahead and just bought some servo tape, because I had to make a trip to the lhs anyway. It's quite a bit thinner than the 3M double-sided tape, so I'm pretty pleased with that. I figured that while I had everything pulled off, I'd twist the wires to reduce any interference, and I moved the on/off switch for the ESC from the top of the ESC to the rear of the chassis tub just inside. This makes it a lot easier to turn off the ESC when the body is on.

One thing I've noticed is that the geometry of the body mounts has changed slightly with the aluminum front bulkhead, because the rear holes are now almost a full hole diameter too far back to fit easily onto the rear shock tower. I can make it fit, but it's not as easy a fit as it used to be.

I did learn the hard way that you really need to make sure things are tightened well. On the shakedown run, the steering link on the servo came loose, and I lost all steering since it came off the servo completely. I was afraid it had stripped the screw that holds it to the servo, but it was merely loose. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble to the front end almost entirely to get at it. I think I've got it tightened adequately now.

I pretty much took my time, and the whole process took me about 5 hours total today. Here's the final rundown:
1) Replaced tranny brace with aluminum replacement part
2) Remounted ESC and moved on/off switch to chassis just inside the rear part of the tub
3) Replaced all ball cups with yellow parts
4) Replaced motor cover with yellow part
5) Replaced bulkhead with aluminum replacement part (getting that hinge pin out was a female dog!)
6) Replaced hinge pin brace with aluminum replacement part
7) Replaced the steering bellcrank with yellow parts and centered servo
8) Replaced antenna tube with more durable fluorescent yellow tube
9) Replaced front bumper with yellow part

Looks pretty good. All the yellow plastic bling pieces added a lot more than I imagined it would. I think the RPM Clawz and Speed Hawgs II will complete the look quite nicely. And the Chameleon 2 Pro will complete the performance mods for now. Any other suggestions?

I think I'm going to hold off on getting any more aluminum replacement parts until something else breaks. Just replacing the knuckle arms and hub carriers for the front will cost $50. Kinda tough to justify.

Here are some pictures of the finished product (I figured you guys already know what the "before" looks like). What do you think?

http://home.earthlink.net/~aywang67/images/EvaderST/Evader%20ST%20Upgrades%20-%20M.jpg

Megazone23

05-29-2004, 03:14 AM

btw, pudder -- that video is great!

Mastec

05-29-2004, 08:13 AM

Looks nice ... Sweet job!

pudder

05-29-2004, 02:02 PM

Pretty swanky stuff there! :) Sounds like you're havin a real great time with your Evader.

philp37

05-29-2004, 05:45 PM

Orbitron, did you use the little rubber grommets with metal inserts that came with the servo? It looks like it will fit if I eliminate them.

orbitron

05-29-2004, 07:14 PM

philip - I just used the standard hardware that was already on the truck.

oh yeah, I don't need to be capitalized.

Megazone23

05-30-2004, 06:28 PM

Ok, so I've fallen victim to the dead motor brush. Is it just me or do these brushes suck? I've run maybe 6-8 packs since I've bought this truck, and now the brush is dead. :( Is it even worth replacing the brushes or should I use this as an excuse to go get the Chameleon 2 Pro? or maybe both so I have a motor in reserve? As much as people talk bad about the Radio Shack RC cars, mine is still running fine whereas my Evader has had a lot more work done on it so far. :( Don't get me wrong, I love the Evader -- I just would have expected to run it more before having to replace stuff -- maybe my expecatations are out of whack, who knows.

As for the Photon Speed 20T, is there any way to cut the comm or at least clean it up to get some more use out of it without destroying new brushes if I get them? What kind of brushes should I get?

One last thing -- what's the easiest way to make sure that the camber and toe-in settings are correct for the front wheels?

As always, thanks in advance! :)

elecracr

05-30-2004, 09:02 PM

The stock brushes last no time and are crap. You should just get normal stand up brushes i believe, these will last you a while. I would just go ahead and get a new motor, as you will need it eventually anyways.

philp37

05-30-2004, 11:35 PM

Megazone, have you tried cleaning the motor with motor cleaner and using a comm brush?

mrplaty

05-30-2004, 11:51 PM

1st off, thanks to the kind folks who replied to my questions on the last post, very helpful!!

I am tired of how fast I go thru brushes on my Evader ST's Photon motor. I suspect they are shot again, they are all pitted when I pulled them today, after truck wasn't running right. I have been keeping them clean and using spray and a comm stick.

Suggestions on replacement motor? I don't need anything faster, would even trade off just a little speed for better reliability and longevity.

thanks!
Mr. Platy
(P.S. - LOVE my new Road Hawg II tires!)

Mastec

05-31-2004, 12:02 AM

My son has the Reedy 19T Spec Quad Magnet, the one with flames on the can. He really enjoys the motor, gives long run times with stock gearing and alot of speed.

Megazone23

05-31-2004, 04:52 PM

Yeah, I cleaned the motor and everything, but after comparing the brushes, one was actually almost half as long as the other, so I'm pretty sure it's the brushes. I just got back from the lhs and have new set of standard stand up brushes, so I'm hoping this will do the trick. I also have a comm stick now, so I can clean up the comm, too.

derrick

05-31-2004, 06:06 PM

i have a never been use photon speed motor ask for $11ship if anyone interset e-mail me at moore630@comcast.net

Megazone23

05-31-2004, 06:10 PM

ok, so the saga continues -- replaced the brushes, recleaned the motor, cleaned up the comm, put everything back together, and everything is running great! I'm tearing it up in the front yard, jump the car into the ditch and it dies. Wheels still turn, but no forward motion. I'm thinking "No way the brushes are stil bad..." and I was right. As it turns out, the impact of landing in the bed of the ditch caused it to throw a spring, or the spring broke. It's tough to do forensics as I was unable to locate the errant part.

So the kicker of this sad tale is that I actually thought to myself as I was headed back from my lhs, "Self, maybe I should get so extra brush springs just in case... nah, what could possible go wrong?" What, indeed. :(

I think it's time to invest in some spare brushes and springs. What other spare inventory parts would you recommend keeping on hand?

biggjimmie

05-31-2004, 11:43 PM

mega, i keep at least one of all of these on hand at all times.
rear chassis plate, diff rings, ball cups, ball studs, body clips, spur, motor, motor springs, motor brushes, shock seal kit, slipper pads, front and rear arms (before i got alum), front rear wheels, 60mm tie-rod, 65mm turnbuckle,70mm turnbuckle, and tons of screws. but i tend to be ****. :o

biggjimmie

05-31-2004, 11:45 PM

also on another note, i have been useing i venom fireball 17x2 motor, and i love it. price is cheaper than most, but this thing is really fun and the brushes have been threw 11 batts and the brushes are near half in size. oh i run it stock timed.

Megazone23

06-01-2004, 04:42 PM

Ok, so I now have 2 sets of brush springs in hand and a spare set of brushes. Of course, now that I look at them, I think I may have picked up the wrong kind of springs, because the 2 springs are wound opposite of each other instead of the same way like the stock springs are on the Photon. Hmm. Oh well, two sets of these will give me one pair that I need for now. Good thing they're cheap. :o

While I was there, I took a look at the Speed Hawgs, and I after closer inspection, I've now decided that I'm going to get the Dirt Hawgs instead. The Speed Hawgs look great for the street, but they look like they'll really suck in the grass.

Here's a question for those of you with the Chameleon 2 -- did you have to change the gearing any, or did it work fine with the stock gearing? I'm getting ready to place another order to Tower Hobbies. :eek:

Megazone23

06-01-2004, 08:36 PM

GRRRRR! :mad:

Okay, for some reason the springs on the positive side of the motor insists on breaking. I'm convinced that this is what happened to the first spring. This has now befallen the two new springs that I procured today. What could be causing this the springs to break prematurely?

The first spring broke after about 2-3 minutes of running, and I wasn't even doing anything extreme. I was at the playground of the elementary school near my house sliding around in the dirt, proving that slicks suck for this type of driving. After going back home to get the spare that I left on my table, the second spring broke within less than a minute of running.

The brushes that I put in seem to be normal every day run of the mill stand-up brushes. The only difference is that the replacement brushes are copper in color whereas the original brushes were silver.

The brush springs were advertised as heavy duty, and one I could possibly understand, but two?

I know that many of you will say to pitch the motor and get the Chameleon 2, but I really want to understand why this is happening before possible jeopardizing a brand new motor. :confused:

guver

06-01-2004, 10:10 PM

The brushes are probly bouncing cuz of reduced tension (heat) or the comm needs turned true. You can check on a stand, turn the trim so that it spins very slow.If it is the case, you notice or feel with your finger the brush moving in and out. If so, you comm maybe perfectly clean, but out of round.

Megazone23

06-01-2004, 10:16 PM

guver

06-01-2004, 11:16 PM

I can't imagine that it's heat causing the spring to have reduced tension, since it barely has enough time to run to get even warm.

So if the comm is out of round, that sounds like a manufacturing defect. Is there some way that it could have started round and gotten out of round to the point where it will consistently break springs?

I should've said that the springs can get old and have gotten hot and takes the temper out of the spring, then it is weak from then on. It sounds like your comm (especially if you've replaced springs)is worn and it isn't a defect. It is just from normal use and arcing and wear. All my photons do exactly that, they start out round and then wear/arc/get dirty/bounce and the comm needs turned. Probly your comm neede turned a long time ago.

You can try to get it turned, but the photon is made to throw away as usually can get only 1-2 turns on the comm.

pudder

06-01-2004, 11:28 PM

If you're comm is in really bad shape, I wouldnt even bother to get it turned. The performance will never all be there again, and some people don't like to true crappy comms on their lathes. For the small price, it is just best to get a new motor.

Megazone23

06-02-2004, 12:43 AM

Hm, the Photon Speed must be a really major piece of crap, because I've run maybe 6 packs on it, and only a couple for the whole charge. Heck, I only bought the truck weekend before last. :(

It just seems weird that it only breaks the positive spring, especially a new one within minutes. :confused:

Megazone23

06-02-2004, 01:47 AM

Update:

Okay, I just pulled the motor, and if it's out-of-round, I can't tell. I looked at the brush carefully as I rotated the pinion, and it didn't look like it moved at all whether I turned slowly or quickly. I looked at the comm, and as near as I can tell, it's still pretty much cylindrical in shape.

I wonder if maybe I just got a bum motor. I would like to think that I am not unreasonable in thinking that a motor dying this quickly is ridiculous.

Is there anything else non-motor related that could possibly cause the springs to break prematurely? I'd hate to get a new motor just to see it suffer the same fate.

pudder

06-02-2004, 09:04 AM

I'm sure if you complained to Duratrax, they'd give you a new motor.

biggjimmie

06-02-2004, 09:58 AM

mega, to me it sounds like the motor you have is a demon seed. if i was you i would talk to duratrax about your hardships, they really are good people, and have always gone out of their way to help me in the past. also, i know that you have not had the mtor long and that you don't have many runs on it, but i have noticed that when i started to oil the bearings and brushes, i started to see more runs time and longer brush live.

Megazone23

06-02-2004, 01:52 PM

Well, I've sent an email to Duratrax, so we'll see what they have to say. I also talked to one of the guys at the lhs, and he said that he has never heard of anyone getting a motor that eats brushes and springs like mine is. I'm going to take it in to him tomorrow on my lunch hour to see if he can figure out what might be wrong with it.

In the meantime, I've got a Chameleon 2 Pro on order from Tower Hobbies along with the RPM Clawz and Dirt Hawgs. I decided to go with the Dirt Hawgs in favor of the Speed Hawgs, because I saw some at the lhs and the SH's tread depth was very shallow. Great for streets, but probably crapola for grass or dirt.

Although I can't afford this option, there's a very tiny part of me thinking, "Hm, brushless motors are less maintenance intensive, aren't they?" :D

guver

06-02-2004, 02:24 PM

All my photons do that, sometimes when I turn the comm it seems to have much better life than it did when new. Then again I tend to push my motors to the limit, too. They also arn't very consistant, sometimes a good one, sometimes a bad one.

orbitron

06-02-2004, 08:22 PM

Do you know what's wierd?? I've owned my Evader since Dec 2002 and I pulled the brushes yesterday (for the first time) to compare with my brand new P2K (that I use on a different vehicle) and they're still like new.

I guess I got a good photon and a bad P2K.

philp37

06-02-2004, 08:57 PM

I have 4 photons, I have used three of them, and the only one that I have had trouble with is the one that I changed the brushes in because I took the advice that when they are half of normal size, they should be changed. It turned out to be a mistake for me, because that photon goes through brushes like crazy and never has performed as well.

Megazone23

06-02-2004, 11:49 PM

Sounds like mine is a lost cause then. I'm hoping Duratrax will make good on it, so I at least have a backup motor. I hope that Trinity doesn't think I need another bad motor experience :)

Megazone23

06-03-2004, 01:38 PM

Ok, I took my motor to the lhs, they looked it over, put some springs thy had lying around on it, ran it with no load (just the pinion), and it ran fine for a few minutes. They said that it looks pretty good, because the comm was giving off very little sparking. They could not think of any reason why it would break 3 springs in such a short time other than pure dumb luck or bad springs (see also "pure dumb luck").

So I went ahead and bought more springs, and will try it out today. Hopefully it will think the lhs guys are still looking at it closely and behave accordingly.

At any rate, it only really needs to work well until the Chameleon 2 arrives. :)

guver

06-03-2004, 02:45 PM

Another thing I have noticed with the photon is when using aftermarket springs, sometimes the spring will hit the brush hood instead of pushing on the brush. That will cause lots of arcing real quick. Either way when you push in on the spring you'll notice a big increase in rpm on the stand. I have to squeeze a lot of them cuz they are too long and hit the inside of the brush hood.

Good luck, I like what youre doing ,that's the way to become an expert . Lots of people just throw the motor away, and for me, I like to understand what and why it happened....(then throw it away hahah)

Maybe I'm a freak,.. or maybe that's just my learning style....

guver

06-03-2004, 02:47 PM

PS megazone what gearing and batteries are you using?

Megazone23

06-03-2004, 04:25 PM

Thanks, guver, I'll check that. As a former engineer and a current IS support guy, I hate not knowing why something wrong is happening and have to beat my head against the wall until a) I figure it out and fix it or b) it causes me so much anguish that I have no choice but to throw it away or suffer the wrath of my wife for letting it get under my skin. :D

In fact, last night the engineer in me woke up, and I found myself disassembling the transmission just to take a peek! I either reassembled it just right or really screwed it up unknowlingly.

I'm currently using the stock gearing and the two batteries that I have are both from Radio Shack -- 2400mAh NiCd and a 3000mAh NiMH. I've always followed the appropriate battery handling methods for each type, and they seem to perform quite well.

guver

06-03-2004, 04:32 PM

Yes, sometimes the learning experience is well worth messing with something that's not worth messing with.. I was asking about the batts and gearing cuz I tend to overgear and over battery, It is harder on the motors , but that is not your problem. your motor probly doesn't get too warm.

Megazone23

06-03-2004, 06:39 PM

From what I've been able to tell, the motor doesn't get really hot even after prolonged runs. Do you think I'll be okay with the stock gearing with the Chameleon 2? I've read in earlier posts that it was okay even though it's a 19T.

guver

06-03-2004, 10:01 PM

Ya you should be ok and pick up quite a bit of speed too.

biggjimmie

06-04-2004, 12:17 AM

mega sounds like your on the right track. i myself am new to the rc scene, but i come from an automotive background, with two race weekend cars in the garage. when it comes to up keep i get really ****, and by all the special little things that one would need to do all the up keep.

so i ask, mega are you oiling your brushes on the photon? i notice that my brothers started having problem much like yours today. he was running it threw the shop when all of sudden it stopped. so i yanked the brushes, hit them with a comm stick and did the same with the comm. then back to running, and dang if it didn't do the same thing after a minute. so as i pulled the brushes i noticed that one of the brushes had pit marks (ark marks). i found a build up of brush dust in the slideway of the hood. hit it with a small flat head, and oiled the brushes with two drops and wipe the oil down the sides of the brushes, and it ran threw 3 more batteries before it got cleaned and tear down.

and yes you can tear down a photon, it's not easy and requires a flat head and some time. once the hood is off you can remove the arm. and turn the comm down on a lathe. before replacing the hood, bend the can ears back, and once eveything is back together tap the can ears back in. and for some reason the photon seems to get better runs and more speed after each back down and turn.

Megazone23

06-04-2004, 08:17 AM

jimmie, I hadn't tried oiling the brushes. what kind of oil do you recommend?

I did run the truck a little inside the house last night, and it seems to be doing okay at this point. I won't really know for sure until I have a chance to run it outside, full-throttle, and cruising around the front yard/ditch/streets.

btw, thank you all for your suggestions and input. Beneath the frustration, it IS fun learning about what makes this truck tick.

pudder

06-04-2004, 08:29 AM

Oiling your comm? You're not supposed to put oil on the comm... you can use "comm drops" though, but even with those, your motor will build up more dirt quicker because of the liquid being on the comm will attract dust and dirt.

biggjimmie

06-04-2004, 09:18 AM

mega i use 'trinity formula 2000 comm drops' for the comm. what it does is keep the comm clean and helps break in the brushes. i use 'peak performance power lube' for the brushes and the bearings. it basically just oil them up. and i use 'duratrax power shot' motor cleaner.

also 'trinity black death comm drops' works great when one drop is placed on each brush and is used before each run. 'trinity buggy blast motor spray' is a good all purpose cleaner. i use 'trinity break in drops' when seating new brushes and use i dremil to break in new brushes and motors. helps to keep down arching.

but your lhs can help you find the best stuff for you and the way you use your rc, to help porlong your motors life.

pudder i am soory that i said that i oiled the comm. i simplly only ment that i i used drops, and i should have been more precise and said that i put drops on the comm. i would never oil a comm, that would lead to burnish marks.

i myself have never found a build up of dust or dirt, but i clean my motors after every third running time.