Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[Megazone23]

Seems to be a reasonable assessment to me, seeing as how that piece is missing. :)

BTW, the new springs seem to be working fine, and the motor is chugging away. I think it's actually running a little better after all the cleaning it's gotten. I have determined, though, that I had the servo saver a bit too tight, as I stripped the servo when a curb in the parking lot jumped out in front of me. :( The good news is that I was able to get a replacement servo, so I figure I'll go ahead and get a replacement gear set for the original servo and have it as a backup.

I spent some time tweaking the servo saver after reassembly, and also tweaked the slipper clutch, which I think was also too tight. Of course, now it's raining cats, dogs, and various farm animals, so I'm going to have to put off testing the fruits of my labors until tomorrow. Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow.

[biggjimmie]

mega have you modified the servo saver any? i did the servo saver mod, that i found on http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/ , he did it on a bx but it works for the st too. and now that i am running a traxxas 2055 servo i have no problems at all.

[Megazone23]

I'll have to see what I can do with that mod. I unfortunately don't have a Dremel, nor do I know anyone with one, but I can at least try and round out the V a little. I did lubricate the faces before putting it back together, and I then loosened the spring thumb nut quite a bit after putting the front brace back on. I then tried to make it break free, and it does seem to work fairly well. Hopefully this will do the trick until I can either a) do the mod, or b) upgrade to a servo with metal gears.

[Megazone23]

Does anyone know if the Futaba S3305 servo will fit in the Evader? It's dimensions are 1.6 x 0.8 x 1.5, whereas the stock servo (S3003) is 1.6 x 0.8 x 1.4. Is there enough space to accommodate the additional 0.1"? This seems like a good option since it has metal gears, is a lot stronger than the S3003, and is about the same speed.

What other options are out there for servos with metal gears? I'd prefer to be able to use the Duratrax horn, since it's part of the yellow steering bellcrank set I bought. After all, fashion IS everything, right? ;)

[pudder]

Another good servo to use is the Hitec 625 MG. It has pretty good features and performance, and it is also cheap and durable. You won't be able to use the yellow servo saver, but they do come with a cool blue annodized aluminum servo horn. :)

[Megazone23]

I'll keep that in mind. Too bad it's not cool purple annodized aluminum. ;) If I decide to go with the S3305, do you think the extra 0.1" will make a difference?

Okay, next topic. The RC Fairy came today while I was out catching the new Harry Potter movie, and I now have my new wheels, tires, and motor in my hot sweaty hands. :D

What is the recommended method for preventing flats? I've read three main options, which are to:
1) drill 4 holes at regular intervals around the wheel (diam ~1/16)
2) drill 2 holes opposite each other on the wheel
3) don't drill holes in the wheel, but cut an L-shape in the tire itself

Personally, 3 doesn't really sound like a good idea to me, especially for the tire's longevity, but it did come out of an RC Mag (I think it was RC Driver). I don't race, nor will I in the near future, so my only real concern is making sure the tires are able to re-inflate after a good bounce.

[pudder]

I just drill 2 holes in opposite ends of the tire, works fine for me.

[Megazone23]

Any particular size? Is there a better part of the tread to drill them (middle, inside, outside)?

[orbitron]

drill em where you can't see them. Two or three is fine with the smallest drillbit you have.

[Megazone23]

I was checking out Pro-Line's website (I figured they'd have a recommendation, since they made the tires), and they recommend drilling the hole in the wheel.

Is there a discreet benefit to drilling the tire instead of the wheel? Will this affect the longevity of the tires? or is this one of those six one way half-dozen the other personal preference things?

[pudder]

I make 2 holes on either side of the rim, usually in the middle of the rim. I'm not sure the exact bit size I use but it is around 3 mm.

[guver]

Drilling/cutting the tire will allow the water to escape, doing the wheel will not.

[guver]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANT5&P=7

here's the servo I like using.

[Megazone23]

I think I'm going to drill the wheels, too. It just seems like it's asking for trouble by putting a hole in the tire.

Well, I've got the Chameleon 2 Pro installed now, although I'll have to wait until the morning in order to see how it runs. I don't know if it's just me, but I think the new pinion that I got for it is a bit quieter than the one on the Photon Speed.

I've got the foam insert corners trimmed and ready for installation, and in an effort to achieve max pimpage, I took one of those silver Sharpies to the raised lettering on the tires. :D Took freakin' forever to finish, but I think it looks pretty good. Tomorrow, I'll drill the wheels, mount the tires & inserts, and glue the tires. Then I'll throw those puppies on the truck, and it'll be picture time!

I'll post update pics when I'm all done. I guess the next thing on my list of things to suck my time and money will be to paint my first body, assuming of course that my quest to find every breakable part on the Evader doesn't get in my way. Any recommendations on bodies? I'd like to be able to use the existing body mounts.

[pudder]

XXX-T or XX-T bodies fit the Evader. Lots to choose from. :)

[Megazone23]

Okay, it's all done now. I now have the following upgrades installed:


aluminum rear transmission brace
aluminum front bulkhead
aluminum hinge pin brace
yellow ball cups
yellow front bumper
yellow steering bellcrank set
yellow motor cover
RPM Clawz chrome wheels
Proline dirt hawgs II tires w/ custom silver raised lettering :D
Chameleon 2 Pro at stock gearing

I have to say, the new motor combined with the slightly larger diameter tires results in a pretty major boost in top speed. I need to spend some time adjusting the slipper clutch, because I think that even if I ease it to full throttle, it starts slipping when I have the trigger pegged.

Here's the latest pic. I think the wheels and tires add a lot visually. Thanks a lot, everyone, for all of your good advice. I'm hoping to take a break from the mandatory as well as optional upgrading for a while.

http://home.earthlink.net/~aywang67/images/EvaderST/Evader%20ST%2006-06-04a.jpg

[frebby]

First of all i'd like to say THANK YOU again to those who have been helping me along w/my re-introduction to R/C.
However, as you can see i'm back again.
I have made a few upgrades to my Evader including an Orion Rush 17x2, 17tooth pinion and intellispeed mild-modified ESC.
What's bothering me is that i bought the motor for more speed than the photon. Seemed like it may have lost some punch when i kept the stock pinion and swapped the Orion in for the Photon.
LOL...that is also what blew my stock esc...costly mistake. :eek: :D :o
I am running crappy duratrax shark 1500's on this truck.
I guess i'm posting because i'm really not seeing the speed improvement that i wanted but have managed to reduce my run times by a couple of minutes it seems.
Now maybe i'm not remembering well exactly how fast the photon was but i don't feel like i'm going much faster now. My punch is back but like i said it's at the expense of drastically reduced battery life.
How can i get the most out of this freakin engine? Is it a POS or what? Lots of people seem happy w/the Chameleon 2 Pro but it is only a 19 turn. Are they less of a speed junkie than myself or is there just something wrong w/my setup?

[frebby]

Frebby, Your problem sounds very similar to one I've been trying to troubleshoot. My Evader dies on the track, especially after a hard landing. I know the battery is connected and working because the steering servo works, but the engine is just dead. I thought it was the brushes and replaced those, but still had the problem. I replaced the photon motor with a P2K, but I haven't had the chance to test it enough to know if that fixes it. If not, the next step is going to be the motor leads or the ESC. I would be very interested to know what your solution ends up being.

Sorrry, just now posting again. It was my ESC.
I was running a 17x2 on it and the stock sprint esc is rated 20t and up.
I got an intellispeed mild-mod 16t and it runs glitch free now.
I must note that the intellispeed is WAYYY smoother than the sprint.
It's fairly feature-rich for the money. SMooth, spot-on throttle and steering. I'm sure there are much better esc's but w/my limited R/C experience and bank acct i'm happy w/my choice.

[pudder]

Switching motors, you probably should have geared down a tooth or two. Overgearing really kills battery life and performance.

I'm not sure how good the Orion motors are, but when I had my 19 turn, that thing flew! I was really impressed with it. Trinity also makes high quality motors.

[frebby]

Switching motors, you probably should have geared down a tooth or two. Overgearing really kills battery life and performance.

I'm not sure how good the Orion motors are, but when I had my 19 turn, that thing flew! I was really impressed with it. Trinity also makes high quality motors.
Thanks pudder. So you think maybe i should run the 19tooth? I only got an odd set of gears because i was under the impression that the 17tooth would be ideal.
I mean, the motor runs pretty fast...oh i don't know. I guess i'm just looking for wayyyy more speed than i'd get w/a 17t motor. My other hobby is racing my mustang gt so when i say speed, i mean SPEED! :D

[biggjimmie]

frebby, i run a 17 pinion with my fireball 17x2 motor. i have no problems, but i also run masher 2000's, for fun. when i race its a 19 or a 18 pinion. also i know about the race thing i run a ford dirt car on the weekends, or should i say it looks like a dirt car. but we now have 3 cars in total, but they all look alike, excapt for dents and rash.

oh and i would also like to show ya'll my new bodies, or somewhat new. the white one is my new fun body, the black one is my old basher body that is now my new racen body, got to beat em up before everyone else does. and i am waiten to get a new basher body, so for now it's back to the old green evader body.

[RaceDog]

Sorrry, just now posting again. It was my ESC.
I was running a 17x2 on it and the stock sprint esc is rated 20t and up.
I got an intellispeed mild-mod 16t and it runs glitch free now.
I must note that the intellispeed is WAYYY smoother than the sprint.
It's fairly feature-rich for the money. SMooth, spot-on throttle and steering. I'm sure there are much better esc's but w/my limited R/C experience and bank acct i'm happy w/my choice.

Thanks Frebby! I also replaced my ESC, but I chose the Novak XRS Sport. I'm pretty happy with it (I've got brakes now!) and it seems to have solved my original problem, although I am still playing with the pinion to figure out what size works best with the ESC and P2K2 motor I'm running. The Novak has an auto-shutoff if it gets too hot, and I think I've managed to do that at least once. Gotta find the right gearing that will keep my motor and ESC cool. The stock pinion seems to get 'em too hot, although I like the speed!

[Megazone23]

One thing you might want to check is that your slipper clutch is adjusted properly. Right after I put in my Chameleon 2, my ESC (stock Duratrax Sport) would shut down if I was in reverse and then punched it forward. I found that the slipper clutch was too tight. After properly adjusting the slip, it quit doing that. Perhaps it was just a coincidence, but the motor and wires were pretty hot when I touched them. Hasn't happened since then.

[RaceDog]

Thanks! I'll take a look at the slipper.

[frebby]

Thanks again everyone.
After a couple more evenings of testing i have found the 19tooth to be ideal w/my setup. I was able to retain or better the punch i had w/the 20t/20tooth and have a higher top end. Run-time is still a little lower than normal but some bigger packs will take care of that. Everything seemed to run a little hotter w/the 17tooth but temps are ideal w/the 19tooth. Of course i wrecked a couple of times w/my new found speed. The great news is that my Jack Russell cannot catch my R/C anymore! :-)

[Megazone23]

Haha -- time to get a greyhound! ;)

[frebby]

problems again...<sigh>
My orion rush 17x2 doesn't have the soldered bullet connectors on the motor, it has clips that slide on. Well the blue lead is hanging by a thread and must be wiggled when the engine stops responding while i'm driving. Upon further inspection it seems that where the blue lead connects to the clip on the engine is no longer gold, it's BLACK! Looks like it got burnt. Anyone know what causes this? It burnt off part of the wire tubing and looks like it toasted some of the strands inside of the lead as well. Right now that blue lead is hanging by a few threads, literally.
:-( why? I read that it is because of high resistance but what causes this?

[frebby]

sorry for the double-post people but i have a question....
what would happen if i put a 9.6v pack on my evader?

[ayk_driver]

sorry for the double-post people but i have a question....
what would happen if i put a 9.6v pack on my evader?
i wood say good bye esc... if its the stock esc that is....

[frebby]

i wood say good bye esc... if its the stock esc that is....
well it's not stock, it's an intellispeed 16t but i only have that because i blew the first stock one running a 17x2 on it. :D :o
Guess i won't try it, thanks for the info.
Still wondering about my burnt connection (two posts up) if anyone has input.

[pudder]

Since I hang around here quite a bit, I thought I'd post my truck;

FT T3
Blue RPM: ballcups, rear bumper, gear cover, front skid, nylon nuts, rear a-arm mounts
Racers Edge blue aluminum front top plate
Trinity Rear transmission brace
Duratrax Evader front rims/axles w/pro-line edge tires
HPI Super Star Universal tires on the rear with pro-line Lug Nut T tires
Novak Atom ESC w/ Fantom 404 motor
Hitec 625mg servo
GP 3300's (for racing)
...thats about it :) I only use this truck for racing, very rarely bashing.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08841.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08845.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08846.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08847.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08848.JPG

[henry_huckem]

really nice truck man!

[frebby]

problems again...<sigh>
My orion rush 17x2 doesn't have the soldered bullet connectors on the motor, it has clips that slide on. Well the blue lead is hanging by a thread and must be wiggled when the engine stops responding while i'm driving. Upon further inspection it seems that where the blue lead connects to the clip on the engine is no longer gold, it's BLACK! Looks like it got burnt. Anyone know what causes this? It burnt off part of the wire tubing and looks like it toasted some of the strands inside of the lead as well. Right now that blue lead is hanging by a few threads, literally.
:-( why? I read that it is because of high resistance but what causes this? :( :confused:
update: ONLY the blue wire gets hot. Naturally i plan to replace it but i don't want it to happen again. I'd like to get to the root of this.

[pudder]

Because the metal pieces are not one with each other. Solder is like this totaly groovy metal that just makes them one man!

Seriously, learn how to solder, it really pays off!

[frebby]

Rock on man! Thanks. I'll buy a gun this weekend.

KC

[drucifer]

Here's my first post, and a pic of my first real RC vehicle showing my first and only (thus far) paint job:

- Novak SS5800 brushless
- DTX blue aluminum front bulkhead
- DTX blue aluminum front hinge pin brace
- DTX blue aluminum tranny brace
- DTX blue aluminum front hub carriers and knuckle arms
- DTX blue aluminum rear hubs
- DTX aluminum idler
- HG aluminum differential gear (mfg. for the B2, used in cunjuction with B2 diff rings)
- RR Absolute spur 85T (mfg. for B2/T2)
- RPM Clawz wheels
- Pro-Line Bow Ties and The Edge tires
- Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer body (self-painted using pre-cut masks and rattle cans)

http://www.rebirthband.com/drucifer_evader.jpg

[RaceDog]

That's an awesome paint job! I could only pray to do that well when I try it for the first time!

[Mastec]

Here's my first post, and a pic of my first real RC vehicle showing my first and only (thus far) paint job:

- Novak SS5800 brushless
- DTX blue aluminum front bulkhead
- DTX blue aluminum front hinge pin brace
- DTX blue aluminum tranny brace
- DTX blue aluminum front hub carriers and knuckle arms
- DTX blue aluminum rear hubs
- DTX aluminum idler
- HG aluminum differential gear (mfg. for the B2, used in cunjuction with B2 diff rings)
- RR Absolute spur 85T (mfg. for B2/T2)
- RPM Clawz wheels
- Pro-Line Bow Ties and The Edge tires
- Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer body (self-painted using pre-cut masks and rattle cans)


Again, Nice job on the paint and truck ... :) Nice to see a familiar face.

[drucifer]

lol! Thanks again!

[mrplaty]

nice truck pics lately, makes mine look shabby!

Question: My diff/transmission makes a lot of noise lately, is the original one in the truck and has suffered I think under my newbie learning curve (not enough maintenance, too much gearing for the new motor, slipper too tight, etc). I don't see in the Evander manual info on rebuilding and adjusting. I know I can order the parts, but will they come with setup/initial adjustment info? Or, can i get a better diff from a 3rd party company that will be an upgrade? Have gotten the bug to race after seeing local RC races, but need to take care of the diff 1st I believe.

(BTW, took advice off this thread, got Chamelon 2 Pro motor, HUGE upgrade over Photon! :D )

thanks, Mr Platy

[Megazone23]

Anyone have experience with Tower Hobbies' self-branded servos? I saw this one last night:
Tower Hobbies TS-70MG S2K Super-Torque 2BB Servo U (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000570036&I=LXANT5&P=K)

The dimensions are fairly close to the stock servo:
- Stock: 41mm x 20mm x 36mm
- TS-70MG: 40mm x 20mm x 38mm

The TS-70MG is a little wider, but I think there's enough room in the servo bay to squeeze it in without having to mod anything. This is an attractive servo, because it has metal gears and cranks out 133.3 oz-in. of torque with a travel speed of 0.20s @ 6.0V.

What do you guys think?

[guver]

That and the cs-70 and another one I can't remember are what I use and very pleased with them.

[Megazone23]

Excellent -- guess I'll be placing an order soon. :)

[Kenny1]

hello folks,

I currently am running a orion 15T Rush motor with a Super rooster ESC with cheap 1500 batteries. if i was to bump up to say 1900 or 2400 would I see a difference?

I bought a Tower hobbies charger for $30 and had I known I would have gone for a NiMH charger instead but myself and my son just bang around the yard with it.

Also what spur/pinion gear combo you guys running?

I currently have stock but ordred a 78T, 81T and a 88T 48P Spur and an 17T, 20T, and 23T Pinion to try with them. I know the 88 spur and 20 pinion are stock but I wanted to use all new gears. the reaon i got them was I have a Speed gem Cryptonite motor coming I bought used on ebay. Its a 9T double that I wanted to give a go for the hell of it, so I ordered these gears to try it out. I also ordered the Deans plugs because these tamiya ones don't seem to work well with this ESC/motor combo. people told me to go over to the Deans.

So is it worth it to bump up to a 1900 or better battery?

TIA.

[Megazone23]

Kenny:
By going up to the 1900 or 2400 mAh batteries, you'll get longer run times. I'm running a 3000mAh NiMH pack from Radio Shack, and I'd say that I get roughly 15-20 minutes or run time. Not sure exactly, though, since I've never really measured. Of course, your times will differ, because I'm running a Chameleon 2 Pro, which is a 19T (stock gearing, 20T pinion/88T spur).

guver:
Does the stock servo horn fit on the TS-70MG or will I need to use one of the horns that comes with it?

[MIS080043]

Alright everyone,
I have a question or two! First off i heard rumors that regular batteries(standard AA) in the radio controller can cause your car to automatically accelerate and not be in your control! Is this a fact or more BS? Second, my car (Evader Bx Buggy) I've owned for about a year now and it still runs good except when i turn sharpley then it just cuts out! In order to make it run again I need to mess with the battery to esc connection to make it go! :cool: I talked to some guys and they said that was the first time they ever heard of that with the evader! So have you guys ever had any experience with this or others like it that could help me?
Thank you,
Derek

[guver]

Mega, Hmm good question, I think the stock arm will fit all futaba and dtx and tower and hobbico.

Derek, any AA should be fine, alkalines are even higher voltage than rechargeables for your TX. It sounds like you may have bad tamiya connection. You can squeeze them with tiny needle nose pliers or bend the connectors so they fit tite again. Try wiggling stuff with your bx propped up on a stand and you may find the connection.

[MIS080043]

Thanx guver,
I'm thinking I'll just bring it to my friends shop and we'll replace it!

[300exrider]

hey i have an evader st w/ everthing graphite except chassis and battery strap. its also got 14tdbl Serpentine motor, and intellispeed 10t esc, epic 300nimh battery and intellipeak twin pulse charger.! nice chattin

[Megazone23]

Well...this forum seems to have shrivelled up and died. :(

So here's something new. Just for yucks and giggles, I strapped my GPS receiver (Garmin eTrex) to my Evader and ran in down the street a couple of times. With the Chameleon 2 Pro, Proline Dirt Hawgs, and stock gearing, it registered a max speed of 25.8 mph. I figure that if I actually had a fully charged battery pack, I might have gotten a little more out of it. The weight of the GPS receiver probably dragged it down a little, too, but that's plenty respectable if you ask me.

I've got a Robinson 88T/48P spur coming with a Robinson 21T/48P pinion, so that should add a little top end, too. Hopefully it will quiet things down, too.

[guver]

that's very respectable, where do you get a speedpmeter like that? and how quick does it respond to speed changes?

[Megazone23]

Oh it's nothing as elegant as those speedmeters that you hook into the RC electronics.

My GPS receiver is one of those hand held models -- probably similar in weight and size to a 4-cell battery pack. Garmin eTrex (http://www.garmin.com/products/etrex/)

I took two long zip ties and literally strapped it to the battery strap. Then I had to take it outside and let it sit for a little bit while it acquired signals from the satellites. When it read that it had accuracy to within 18 feet, I took off down the road and made multiple runs of approximately 100yds.

It seems to be fairly responsive. As I turned into the driveway, I could see it displaying the speed, and the number was dropping as I brought it to a stop. In that run, I drove it almost 1 mile. The biggest downside to using this GPS receiver is the additional weight it adds to the truck. I bet it would probably get another 1 or 2 mph without it.

[RaceDog]

So I rubbed all the pins off of the stock rear tires pretty quick running in the street. Now they are nice and slick. Too much wheelspin is overcooking my motor and ESC. So I'm looking for new tires specifically for concrete/asphalt running. I've got a separate set for dirt. I'm thinking of Pro-Line Road Hawg II's or Dirt Hawgs II's. The Pro-Line web site describes the Dirt Hawgs II's as good on Asphalt. Does anybody know if running them on asphalt or concrete will wear out the tread pretty quick? I want something that will last longer than the stock rear tires on hard surfaces. If the Dirt Hawgs will last I'll get them. If not, I'm going to go with Road Hawgs. Any advice?

[guver]

I've had road hawg and road rage, both very good for asphalt and concrete.

The dtx street ones (I cant remember name) are no good.

[Megazone23]

I've had Dirt Hawgs on mine for about a month now, and I run it pretty hard a couple of times a week on the streets (although the last week and a half has been scarce due to rain). I've noticed very little wear, if any, on them. My street is concrete with a rough finish. It definitely holds the road really well. I could break the back end loose with the stock tires fairly easily with a powerslide, but if I try that with these bad boys, I'll actually roll the truck.

I can highly recommend the Dirt Hawgs, because they're great on the street, hard packed dirt, hard packed dirt with some loose dirt covering it, bashing around the lawn, and mulch (don't ask).

One thing I have noticed, though, is that my truck now understeers big time if I turn with the throttle on. If I let off the throttle, the tires bite and the turn tightens accordingly. I'm still experimenting with the camber angle to see if it's something that can be corrected with the geometry or if it's just something about these tires since they're larger diameter than stock and have the big lugs. I'm going to throw on the stock ribbed tires some time to see if that makes a difference.

[orbitron]

crank up the negaitve camber. I mean crank it up. That will improve it dramatically. we're talkin /......\

[Megazone23]

Thanks for the tip. That's the direction I was headed. I'm also going to replace the shock oil with heavier weights per some suggestions I've seen. I'm going to try 30W up front and 40W in the back. I've also got the sway bars on order to try and minimize the roll.

[RaceDog]

I can highly recommend the Dirt Hawgs, because they're great on the street, hard packed dirt, hard packed dirt with some loose dirt covering it, bashing around the lawn, and mulch (don't ask).


Thanks, Man! I'm going to give them a try.

[orbitron]

I've also got the sway bars on order to try and minimize the roll.
The negative camber will improve cornering with body roll. Use what you got to your advantage. More tread will touch the ground when it's leaning.

[Megazone23]

Very true, and I realize that, but even when I crank a turn without rolling it, the rear squats so hard that the inside front wheel often lifts off the ground. That's why I'm upping the weight of the shock oil. I'm thinking 40W in the rear and upping the front to 30W.

I'll probably see how that does before adding the sway bars (which did arrive today, although minus some critical pieces like the mounting brackets and ball studs :(). I may just see if my lhs has this in stock rather than paying for postage to send it back to Tower for a replacement, although I think Tower should cover the cost of return. The bag was clearly cut open and taped shut again, and the instructions even show the mounting brackets clearly circled and indicated as "missing". But they didn't indicate the ball studs which are also missing. Grrrrr. :mad: Oh well, part of the mail order experience I guess. I'll see if they make good on it tomorrow.

[Megazone23]

Well Tower Hobbies lives up to its reputation for providing excellent service. I called them today and explained that I had received a package that was clearly opened before and raided for parts, and they are sending me a new one out today. I asked if they wanted these parts back, and they told me I could keep them. Big thumbs up for Tower!

[pudder]

Hazaa for the shopkeep!

[RaceDog]

Tower rocks !

[vetmxer]

got an evader comin in the mail was wondering if i put paddles on the rear to run in sand will the front ribbed tires work ok in sand?

[pudder]

Yes, they will work in the sand.

[dug]

heres some bad pics of me evader drifting...........and what are the best tires for hard dirt??

[Megazone23]

Hmm, I don't see any pictures...even if I squint really hard. :)

As I mentioned above, I've got Pro-line Dirt Hawgs on my Evader, and I think they are a great all-purpose tire even though they're more off-road intended with their big knobs and all.

[vetmxer]

had a typo

[vetmxer]

thanks for the answer pudder

[orbitron]

dug - I really enjoy my losi smashers. very all purpose.

[RaceDog]

As I mentioned above, I've got Pro-line Dirt Hawgs on my Evader, and I think they are a great all-purpose tire even though they're more off-road intended with their big knobs and all.

I just got some RPM Claws wheels and Dirt Hawgs for my back wheels and I love the way they look. I'm thinking about putting a set on the front wheels. What should I expect with the handling if I put those tires on the front instead of the stock ribbed tires?

[Megazone23]

That's exactly the setup I have. I noticed that since I upgraded to the Chameleon 2 Pro and the Dirt Hawgs, I get noticeable understeer when turning and on the throttle. I've cranked on the camber so the wheels are visibly leaning in, and it improved the grip quite a bit. Letting off on the throttle also results in almost immediate grip. Keep in mind that this is also all on my concrete street outside. The dirt handling is so much different because a) my driving skills in dirt still suck, and b) because of a) I keep spinning out.

I hope this helps answer your question. I may try putting the stock ribbed tires back on front just to see what diff it makes.

[Megazone23]

On another topic, I've decided that the next thing that I want to do on my Evader is to buy a body and paint it. I've seen that the Losi XXX-T bodies should fit fine, and I was wondering if that would hold true for the new body that they put on the Matt Francis 2 XXX. I really like this body and thought it would be cool to get. Any thoughts on it fitting?

[dug]

yeh i wanna get a new body aswell, with mine it is getting some scratches and lookin poverty, so i wanna get summin like the losi xxx-t body or anything else dat looks cool, but i dont know how they would fit either

[vetmxer]

just got my evader last night.ran 3 or 4 packs thru it while inspecting it this morning i noticed that one of the small pins on the universal had almost backed competely out. anything else i should keep an eye on? thanks

[Megazone23]

Apparently that's a fairly common problem, although I haven't experienced it myself. Here's a good site for some tips re: the Evaders. His is a buggy, but it should still work for your ST.

http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

[Mastec]

Go to the website Megazone told you about and follow the servo saver fix. Out of the box it is too tight and will strip the servo gears. The fix will take care of that. I have been using the same plastic stock servo gears for 4 months and havent stripped them yet. Same goes for my 3 kids and their Evaders.

[vetmxer]

thanks for the link

[Megazone23]

btw, the Futaba S3305 servo with BB and metal gears fits perfectly in the Evader ST. Combined with the servo saver adjustments, I'm hoping I won't ever have servo problems again.

And along that topic of making things as indestructible as possible, what is the best way to go about making the tranny bulletproof? Is it possible to get aftermarket metal gear sets? That would be nice for if I ever decide to go brushless. :D

I did replace the stock spur and pinion with a Robinson Racing Absolute Spur Gear (88T) and a Robinson Racing Pinion (21T). It's definitely a lot quieter than stock, and the new spur seems a bit stiffer -- it even has a metal reinforcement plate around the hub and screw holes.

[elecracr]

Well, you can start with an aluminum idler gear, as that is the most common gear to strip from my experiences. idler (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZP0&P=7)
This would just leave you with a plastic differential, i have run lots of stress and power through my bx with doing wheelies and such, but i have only stripped an idler a few times, if it strips much more, i will get an aluminum one. Slipper adjusment is crucial to longjevity of gears. If it is set correctly the only gears i will occationally strip is a few spur gears, but i would much rather a spur gear die than an internal gear that i will have to open up that transmition housing for.

Oops... i just now see this is for nitro vehicles, sorry!

[Mastec]

I read somewhere that the aluminum diff gear for a B2 will fit the electric Evaders. I have not personally tried it since my electrics just sit and collect dust and all I modify is my nitro.

[Megazone23]

Wow, I don't know how I missed that in my previous searches on Tower's website. Thanks, elecracr! I think I've finally got my spur tweaked just right, and I've locked the nut with a second one.

Mastec, is this what you were talking about?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL610&P=7

I guess I'll wait until I actually strip something in the tranny before I go and replace anything. As it is, I think I've done more than enough elective surgery for now!

[Mastec]

:) Thats the one. A guy in another forum says he has one in his electric BX. ST and BX tranny's are the same so it should work.

[Megazone23]

Oh, Mastec -- now you've done it! lol

Must....resist....urge....to....buy....

[Mastec]

LOL :) Don't forget the diff rings.... He mentioned that those are needed to use the B2 gear.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3225&P=7

[Megazone23]

You're an evil evil person....I love it! :D

[Megazone23]

Well, I installed the sway bar kits with the green bar in the rear (stiff) and the yellow bar in front (less stiff), and I can't say as I saw any real improvement in the truck's handling. In fact, I actually rolled it more today than usual trying to see if there was any difference. So the next step I'm going to take is to go ahead and replace the stock shock oil with the 30WT up front and 40WT in the rear.

Any thoughts on this setup?

[Megazone23]

Well, it's done. I just finished changing out the shock oil, and I hope I did it right. :eek:

One thing I noticed is that before I changed the oil, the piston would come back out on its own about a quarter of an inch if I pushed it in all the way. After I replaced the oil, if I pushed the piston in all the way, it would stay there. Did I do something wrong?

[Megazone23]

Well, I took it out today, and it does seem to handle a lot better. If I did something wrong while changing the shock oil, I can't tell if it's adversely affecting anything. There's definitely less roll in the rear of the car and it seems to squat a lot less in hard turns.

Previously in a hard turn, the inside front tire would lift off the ground quite a bit, which I believe was indicating the rear outside wheel was taking most of the force. Now, the inside rear wheel is lifting slightly, which I believe means the outside front wheel is taking most of the force. I think this is probably good for steering -- hopefully, getting the outside front tire to bite a little more in the turn.

I'm almost thinking that maybe I should have put the 40WT in the front, too.

[The Modfather]

A while back, I was looking into getting an Evader Pro when they came out, as well as a ton of hop-ups. Well, this idea kinda went to the dogs, as I got a pretty good deal on a used (but not used up) T3.

Anyhow, my son has a "mostly stock" Evader - with the exception of the servo (HiTek Metal Geared servo), ESC (I replaced the stocker with my old Tekin G12), and motor (P2k2).

I'd like to upgrade his truck - maybe dump around $200 or so into it. I'm looking for ideas. First and foremost, I need to get his tranny plumbed up. The gears seem out of 'round'. Even right out of the box, his truck has had this funny "sound" like the gears weren't meshing together nicely. So we took his tranny apart last nite - keep in mind his truck has had no more than 8-12 packs run thru it. The inside was really clean, but when I'd spin the outdrives by hand, I could FEEL that the gears are out of round. So I'd like to replace the gears with some new ones.

Also, I'd like to have some suggestions on other upgrades. I have done the servo saver fix, but looking more towards what kind of parts I should spend $$$ on.

Here is a list of some aluminum parts that I found are available on Towers site. For those with any Evader upgrade experience, please rank the following on a scale from 1 to 4 (1=MUST BUY, 4=Get it if you have some extra money.) I'm just tryin to figure out where to spend my money effectively. I have the item linked if you wanna check em out.

HGI Alloy Differential Gear B2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXL610&P=K)
Associated Differential Drive Rings 2.40:1 B2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LX3225&P=K)
DuraTrax Idler Gear Alum Evader Series (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXFZP0&P=K)
DuraTrax Knuckle Arm Aluminum Blue Evader ST (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXBDK4&P=K)
DuraTrax Transmission Brace Rear Aluminum Blue EvaderST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXBDK6&P=K)
DuraTrax Hub Rear Aluminum Blue Evader ST (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXBDK2&P=K)
DuraTrax Hub Carrier Aluminum Blue Evader ST (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXBDK0&P=K)
DuraTrax Heat Sink/Motor Mount Blue Evader ST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXBDJ8&P=K)
DuraTrax Turnbuckle Set Titanium w/Wrench EVST (6) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXCRR4&P=K)
DuraTrax Shock Set Rear Blue Evader ST (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXAMU9&P=K)
DuraTrax Shock Set Front Blue Evader ST (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXAMU6&P=K)
DuraTrax Sway Bar Kit Front Evader ST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXAMW1&P=K)
DuraTrax Sway Bar Kit Rear Evader ST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXAMW2&P=K)
DuraTrax Front Hinge Pin Plate Aluminum Blue Evader ST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXAMT5&P=K)
RPM Heavy 4-40 Rod Ends (12) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV19&P=7)
DuraTrax Hard Anodized Light Slipper Plate Set EvaderST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXCTS4&P=K)

My son will probably be racing this truck @ our local track, as well as some other runnig around at the local BMX spot.

Thanks in advance everyone.

EDIT: If there is anythink I missed that should be on here, please let me know also. Thanks.

[Megazone23]

Modfather, may I first say that it is an honor to be in your presence. ;)

The first things that I replaced on my Evader were the Rear Tranny Brace (broke it), the Front Bulkhead (didn't want to break it), and the Hinge Pin Brace (others have broken it). I can recommend replacing these with the aluminum parts even though they add up quickly.

The next thing I did performance-wise was replace the motor with a Chameleon Pro 2, but you've already got a P2k2, so I would replace the stock pinion and spur gear since you've mentioned you have issues with them. I replaced mine with a Robinson Racing Absolute Spur Gear 88T B2/T2 and a Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 48P 21T, both available at Tower. You would need to select a pinion that's appropriate for you, of course.

I also replaced the stock servo with a Futaba s3305 (Metal Gears, BB, Hi-Torque). It fits perfectly and now I don't have to worry so much about the servo saver being too tight, although I hadn't had problems since I adjusted it properly. It IS nice not really having to worry, though.

For the tranny, you have all the parts there that I would get (HGI diff gear, Duratrax aluminum idler, Assoc Diff rings), and I would suggest replacing the diff and thrust balls with carbide balls based on things I've read here and on other sites. I think I remember reading someone went ahead and used the Assoc diff spring and a Losi XX thrust bearing kit, too. Supposed to make the tranny as good as a Losi or Associated Stealth.

The last item that has improved my performance (at least I think it has) was replacing my shock oil with 30WT up front and 40WT in the rear. I left the stock medium springs in place. Keep in mind, though, that I drive mostly on my street and in grass with occasional jumping into and out of the ditch. If you're son will be doing a lot of jumping, I believe the heavier shock oil should keep it from bottoming out.

I installed the sway bar sets, but truth be told, I can't really tell if they're doing all that much. I'd put them low on the list of things to get. Fortunately, they were fairly inexpensive.

I haven't replaced any of the hubs/carriers/knuckles, because of a) cost and b) haven't broken anything there yet. Likewise, I haven't replaced any turnbuckles, and I only replaced the ballcups for the color. Most of the rest of the mods were for style, with the purple anodized heat sink/motor mount being at least an improvement over the stock piece with its fins for additional surface area.

[The Modfather]

Megazone - thanks for replying! I was hoping to hear from you!

I have read all of your posts, and you have provided some very good insight. Kinda neat to hear when you first bought the rig, then your disappointment when it was not working right, and finally the last few posts where everything seems to be all kinds of plumbed up!

Can you send me links to the 3 components you mentioned: Rear Tranny Brace, Front Bulkhead, and finally Hinge Pin Brace. I think I have the right stuff but would like to make sure :)

It's nice to be able to talk to someone that has upgraded these components, rather than shooting blindly. Thanks for helping out and being a great resource!

[The Modfather]

For the tranny, you have all the parts there that I would get (HGI diff gear, Duratrax aluminum idler, Assoc Diff rings), and I would suggest replacing the diff and thrust balls with carbide balls based on things I've read here and on other sites. I think I remember reading someone went ahead and used the Assoc diff spring and a Losi XX thrust bearing kit, too. Supposed to make the tranny as good as a Losi or Associated Stealth.


er....hate to be a pest, but the items that I dont' currently have in my list - do you know where I can purchase them?

Thanks!

[Megazone23]

I'm glad my experience will be able to benefit you. Here are links to the parts in question. As I recall, you were looking for blue parts, so I pulled these up. You can find most anything on Tower Hobbies by doing a search on Evader ST.

Here's what pops up when you search on Evader ST aluminum (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=Evader+ST+aluminum&FVPROFIL=++).

Aluminum Rear Transmission Brace - Blue (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK6&P=7)
Aluminum Front Bulkhead - Blue (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVG1&P=7)
Aluminum Hinge Pin Brace - Blue (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMT5&P=7)

I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have any other questions. :D I think that I'm going to lay off the upgrades for now and maybe try to paint a body. :eek: My plan right now with regards to the tranny is to wait until a) I have to rebuild it, or b) sheer boredom sets in and I just HAVE to do something! :o

[The Modfather]

I think that I'm going to lay off the upgrades for now and maybe try to paint a body. :eek: My plan right now with regards to the tranny is to wait until a) I have to rebuild it, or b) sheer boredom sets in and I just HAVE to do something! :o
HAHA! you'll lay off for a minute - next thing you know you'll be back at it again....Just wait you! :)

Anyhow, I'm gonna rebuild the tranny, cuz if there is one thing I can't stand, it's a whiny RC car :)

[Megazone23]

Good thing I'm not a recovering alcoholic with this kind of support! lol (My apologies to any recovering alcoholics out there.)

Then again, you're probably right. Can't leave well enough alone, now can we? I'll be interested to hear how your tranny rebuild goes.

[The Modfather]

Good thing I'm not a recovering alcoholic with this kind of support! lol (My apologies to any recovering alcoholics out there.)

Then again, you're probably right. Can't leave well enough alone, now can we? I'll be interested to hear how your tranny rebuild goes.
I'm gonna order the tranny parts n stuff today. I'll be sure to take pix n stuff so you can see what's involved. It shouldn't be THAT much of an issue :)

[Wizardman_1]

Cant you guys post the links to the HGI diff gear, Associated Diff rings, Associated Diff Spring, i think i have the ones but just to make sure. I'm gonna put them in my evader bx since it seems to help you guys. thanks

[The Modfather]

HGI Diff Gear (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXL610&P=K)
Associated Drive Rings (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LX3225&P=K)
Associated Slipper Spring (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXEAD1&P=K)

That's what I'm ordering.

[Megazone23]

What kind of grease are you using to repack the tranny? Also, does anyone know of a metal carrier for the thrust balls or is that not a major concern?

[The Modfather]

Believe it or not, I will be using some "Slick 50 bearing grease" that I have @ the house. I have used it on my T3, and it seems to work rather well.

As far as a carrier for the thrust balls, I don't have one , so not sure it's really a concern. I'll let you know if there are any issues when my stuff arrives tho.

[Megazone23]

So I was thumbing through the August issue of RC Car Action and saw an ad for this: Venom Speedmeter (http://www.venom-racing.com/product/vsm/index.htm)

Anybody have experience with this little puppy? It's completely superfluous, adds nothing to the performance, yet is so enticing because of the data it gathers (speed, max speed, trip odometer, lifetime odometer, voltage meter). Yes, I am TechnoGeek! Here me roar! :cool:

BTW, Modfather, there's an article in there about overhauling your tranny that you might find of interest.

[microrcdude]

it works. I've seen it in action. Our LHS is running oval, so everyone's trying to make their car as fast as possible.

[The Modfather]

BTW, Modfather, there's an article in there about overhauling your tranny that you might find of interest.


Good lookin out man!

[Megazone23]

micro, you've joined the ranks of the Evil -- I must have one now!

Mod, if you want, I can scan it and send it to you. PM me.

[Megazone23]

Found this review on the Venom Speed Meter from Xtreme RC Cars. Good pros and cons.
VSM Review (http://www.rc411.com/scopes/100/index.htm)

[RaceDog]

Anybody know where to get replacement bearing spacers for Evader front wheels? I like to keep several sets of tires and don't want to have to switch out the bearings and bearing spacer each time I switch tires. I've found this on Tower Hobbies http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAMC4, but I don't want to order the whole axle assembly, I just want the spacer. Anybody know of anywhere I can get just a spacer that will fit the Evader?

[guver]

That's a good q. I would like some too. Maybe a length of steel tube and cut them with tubing cutter.

[guver]

I looked all over and know this has been discussed, I'm trying to put together another street truck and If I want to minimize body roll then where should I run my canber links?

I need to know front and rear positons which will give me the best high speed flatness during cornering?

[Megazone23]

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but here's what the Duratrax manual says about the camber setup:

Using a long mounting position will increase traction but decrease stability. Shortening the link will increase stability, but decrease traction.

[guver]

It seems I should make the rear link as long as it will go then.

[TeamMishap]

Uncle Sam has been gracious enough to relocate me to Germany. My family and I are finally settled in after about a month. I miss Tower Hobbies. APO shipping speeds are not very fast.

My Evader and E-Maxx have bit the dust. I fried the tranny running my Hacker B50-12S on 12 cells in my Evader. I've been wanting to rebuild it with the metal idler and the modded AE diff gear anyway. My slipper is acting like I greased it too.

I finally busted a bulkhead on my E-maxx after jumping it off a skateboard ramp. Which is OK too, because I've been wanting to replace the stock ones, but haven't wanted to fuss with the rebuild for no reason. Now I have one. :)

Anyone know if the graphite parts for the Evader ST Pro available yet?

Tschuss...and glad to be back.

[Megazone23]

Glad to hear you made the trip to Germany in better shape than your Evader and E-Maxx! :D

As far as I know, the graphite parts are still vaporware. The Duratrax website still lists it as "Coming Soon", and Tower Hobbies says "Early Aug". Duratrax sure seems to have an interesting idea of what "Soon" really means, considering it was first announced last year, and this is now the fourth time Tower has had to revise the status.

I'm trying to wait for Modfather's report on the tranny mod, but there's an evil part within that wants to just buy the parts and run with it. :)

[The Modfather]

My parts should be here tomorrow - I'll let you know how it goes. :)

[TeamMishap]

The Evader and E-maxx survived the move well...they just didn't survive my driving once I got here. Hahaha.

Sorry to go off thread for a minute, but driving on the autobahn is amazing. Where else can you go 100mph and have someone smoke past you?

[The Modfather]

So yeah - Tower tried to deliver my stuff yesterday, but I wasn't home. So I got a nice FedEx tag. I signed it, and they will deliver it today - unfortunately I'll be playin poker tonight so I wont' get to build until tomorrow evening.

Why must the RC gods tease me like this?

[TeamMishap]

Whats all this stuff I see about new slipper plates? I must have been the last idiot to buy the pretty blue aluminum ones, which apparently aren't sold any more. Any one know if the new blue slipper pads will fit the old style slipper set up?

[The Modfather]

Ok, got the tranny upgraded. Don't have any pix unfortunately - the digicam batt was dead :(

I was a little disappointed - I purchased some carbide thrust balls, but there are only 6 of them, and they are incredibly small. I suspect they are for a different model - essentially I wasted $8 on these stupid things :( So if/when you rebuild yours, you should pull the outdrive apart and hit your LHS to match up the stock balls with the correct sized ones. I am still going to buy some carbide thrust balls, but I was too excited to put it all back together - heh.

Something else happened that should be said - when I ordered the HGI Alloy Differential Gear B2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000469281&I=LXL610&P=K), I was under the assumption that the bearing from the old gear would pop right in - it doesn't The HGI has a smaller hole in the center. I don't know exactly what size it is, as I was lucky enough to have a bearing that I was able to drop in there. This is something that needs to be taken into consideration if you plan on upgrading your tranny.

With the new gears installed, it is a MUCH smoother tranny. I lubed it up using some Associated Stealth Lube, oiled the bearings, and put it all back together. There was a pretty big difference in how quiet this thing is. We ran a couple of battery packs thru it, and I was very impressed with the fact that it remained quiet, and very smooth.

If you are thinking about upgrading your Evader tranny, I would highly recommend doing it. It's certainly worth it IMO.

[elecracr]

Do you know what size bearing you did have to put in it?

[The Modfather]

unfortunately I don't - it wasn't a "perfect" fit either - I had to do a little dremel modification to help it in. I bet that someone with a B3 could probably help us out with that tho.

[Megazone23]

Sorry I've been MIA, but my damned broadband connection keeps dumping at 7PM and won't come back until the next morning. TimeWarner is supposed to be looking into it, but until they get it fixed, I essentially have no Internet connectivity at home since it usually only stays up for about 45 min after I get home and doesn't resurrect itself until I'm at work. Convenient, no? I didn't think so either.

Hey, Mod -- glad to hear you got your tranny put together. Sorry to hear about the thrust balls and the bearings. I'm glad I didn't order all that stuff now, since I'd only be REALLY frustrated with that on top of the broadband problems I'm having.

So now that your tranny is bullet-proof, when are you putting in the brushless motor? :D

[vetmxer]

ive had my evader for a cpl of weeks now and i like it alot. have hit some big jumps(3 ft ramp) had some ugly landings but havent broken a thing. only thing i noticed was a warped spur gear adding 2 more screws seemed to help. BTW when i got it the diff and slipper clutch were jacked way too tight :eek: good thing i checked em.
maybe a ploy to sell more parts ;)

[dug]

yeh the same thing sorta happened 2 me but with the pinion gear.....i just broke the rear bash plate(i dont no wat its called) on me evader and im going for a stress tech fing. does anyone no if duratrax mails there stress tech parts fast or what?

[Megazone23]

Are you talking about the motor cover (curved piece with DTX cut out)? If so, it might be less painful to just buy a replacement part from your lhs. Probably about the same as for the postage. Especially if you're going to order something from Tower anyway. They have the black one for $2.89 and the fashion color ones are $1.79 (yellow, blue, green). Do a search on "Duratrax Motor Guard".

[elecracr]

He may be talking about this.... rear chassis plate (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAME4&P=7)

[RaceDog]

Okay, here's a real rookie question. I broke the rear dog-bone axle on my Evader. The pin on the universal joint broke off. Might have had something to do with jumping off that 5-ft hill at the park. I didn't know what size replacement pin to use, so I got a whole new dog-bone axle assembly. Last night I got it in the car fine, but I can't seem to get the included shaft pin into the axle. It just seems too tight a fit. Any suggestions?

[microrcdude]

try to pust it in using some plires. They should be that tight.

[The Modfather]

In addition to using pliers, RaceDog, what I did was took a piece of heat shrink and put that over the dogbone and heated it up. This ensures that the pin will not come out again. I can post pix tonite when I get home if you'd like.

[elecracr]

In my evader bx i kept breaking the universals, so i switched to nitro cv joints. They are holding up much much better.

[hjc]

Hi there I'm new here, although I've been a lurker for a while. A couple questions please:

First, can anyone recommend an alternative to tower hobbies for evader parts?
I ordered from tower but they say they can't verify my VISA card. I've sent them two emails with the requested pictures of the card and photo ID etc., but both emails went un-answered. There is nothing wrong with the card, every other retailer is happily taking my money, but not tower. I don't want to phone them as I live in Australia. It shouldn't be this hard to be a customer, so I think I'll try somewhere else.

Second, Golden Horizons make aluminum front suspension arms for the ST. As well as a few other bits. Are there any other manufacturers apart from them that do hop-ups for the evader?

greetings from Australia
Howard

[TeamMishap]

So the CVDs from the nitro ST will fit the electric ST??? I may be in heaven!

[elecracr]

Yea, i took a gamble, and they fit just fine on by bx, so i would think the st's would work too, if you look on the evader pro's they have the cv's from the nitro's on them. Mine are holding up great.

[monyet fangkeh]

hjc
check on www.radiomodels.com.au they have quite cheap compare to my other lhs.
im still waiting till the evader pro kit come out, then maybe i'll get some evader

where about in OZ are you? im in Perth

[RaceDog]

Hey Modfather and Microrcdude, Got my axles back together this weekend and now I'm back up and running. Thanks for the advice! I'll see how well these hold together before I think about switching to the CVDs.

[hjc]

hi monyet, thanks for that. I can't find many spares in their search? Do they sell spares? My LHS is OK on prices but too slow. The evader has been out of action for a month now, waiting for parts. I'm in central Victoria.
- cheers mate

[monyet fangkeh]

^^^ yes they sell spare parts. but not like a hop up aluminium parts like your looking for an aluminium A arm.

sometimes their search thingy a bit dodgy. just go to the brand index and find the duratrax catalog. they have lots of category of parts for evader there.

[hjc]

OK I found the parts listing now. Thanks for your help monyet.

[GearHd]

Has anyone had trouble stripping out the plastic internal transmission gears? My nephew has stripped his but I think it might have been because of a tight slipper clutch. I dont think it was slipping at all and the tranny was taking a pounding. I took the tranny apart and the plastic gears dont look bad at all but they do grind, the teeth must barely mesh when the case halves are together.

[guver]

I had an original evst that stripped a dozen or so. All mine are way faster now, and I don't really strip anymore. Maybe 2 a year.

[dug]

heres some pics of my evader jumpin it aint that big becoz i only got a 21 double in it but its still tunza fun

[dug]

another

[dug]

thats all 4 now.......on that same day i put a bit of cardboard on the end of the lip and made my car do a couple of backflips it was good as except the pics we took came out all blurry because it was dark so i might try to ghet some more

[hjc]

Nice pics dug!

Has anyone here tried one of the brushless systems in an evader? Of course it would need to be geared down, but I'm tempted by a Novak package.

[RaceDog]

Awesome pictures Dug! That's some serious air! Where did you get that ramp or how did you make it?

[microrcdude]

howd you make the ramp?

[RaceDog]

I've got the DuraTrax Kwik Ramp http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUB32&P=ML, but I'm not that crazy about it. The way the wires fit on the underside of the ramp is just too flimsy for my taste. I heard there was a recent article in RC Driver maybe that had plans for building a ramp out of PVC, but I missed it. Anyone know of any good web resources on building RC ramps?

[Megazone23]

RaceDog, I can probably dig up that article for ya. I remember seeing it, and I'm pretty sure I still have that issue. PM me with your email addy, and I'll scan and send it to you.

[dug]

yeh i just cut out a good angle on it with ply wood then i nialed it together and then put wire on it...its easy as it only takes about 2 hours and i made it all out of scrap stuff i found.. i also made another ramp with a big angle so it kicks it up and that only took about an hour to make.

[TeamMishap]

Duratrax confirms that the CVDs for the Nitro EVST will fit on the Electric version! Yeah!


From: "Car Support" <CarSupport@hobbico.com>
>To: <miXXXman@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: EVST dogbones
>Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 21:27:35 -0500
>
> Thank you for your recent e-mail. Yes, the CVD's will work for the
>electric Evader ST.
> >Sincerely,
>Eddie W.
>Product Support Technician
>
> >>> "John Meeshap" <miXXXman@hotmail.com> 8/22/2004 3:48:49 AM >>>>I've heard on some chatter on the RCCA message boards that the CVDs for the Nitro Evader ST will fit on the Electric Evader ST. Is this true?
>

[elecracr]

Yea, they work well, i was breaking the electric drive universals every week with 12 turn motors, but with the CVD's they are much better, i broke one because i hit something wrong and my gearbox shifted. But they last alot longer and work better all around.

[microrcdude]

who makes the CVD's?

[Megazone23]

Duratrax -- $16.99/pr at Tower
Duratrax CV Driveshaft Set for Nitro Evader ST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSY9&P=7)

[hjc]

I just gave my son's Evader a new front end, including Golden Horizons suspension arms. Here's a pic:

http://ironbark.bendigo.latrobe.edu.au/~hjc/ev01.jpg

[hjc]

and another

http://ironbark.bendigo.latrobe.edu.au/~hjc/ev02.jpg

[TeamMishap]

Golden horizons make the shock towers too?

[hjc]

The shock tower, bulkhead and brace are all Duratrax. Incidentally the bulkhead required a bit of work to get the arms on, I needed to file off some excess metal.
The arms, knuckles and carrier hubs are all GH. I really like the finish of the GH stuff, it's first class.

But most of the terrain around here is very rough, we'll see how it stands up to the pounding our cars get :D

[dug]

yeh that looks sweet i might think ov getting one of them because i broke my front swingarm a while ago so...did it cost much

[hjc]

i broke my front swingarm a while ago so...did it cost much

The GH arms are $26 at tower.

[TeamMishap]

When did Duratrax come out with Aluminum Shock towers? I've been wanting those ever since I got my Evader.

[The Modfather]

Hey Modfather and Microrcdude, Got my axles back together this weekend and now I'm back up and running. Thanks for the advice! I'll see how well these hold together before I think about switching to the CVDs.
Good deal man! Hope they work out for yah!

[microrcdude]

found the shock towers!
Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAT2&P=7
Rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAT3&P=7

[elecracr]

GOod job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!

[Megazone23]

Does anyone know if these are available in purple?

[hjc]

I just checked again (at tower) and they only list the blue version. I didn't realize the shock towers were so new... happy credit card bashing folks!

[RCA14]

Those aluminum parts are awesome i've had all the blue aluminum upgrades on my wish list for about a month before they were even out. i'm just saving up for those shock towers and suspension arms. Does golden horizon have blue aluminum arms??

[hjc]

They sure do:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDH0&P=7

[RCA14]

o btw hjc was all that stuff off tower?? i can only find the rear arms from golden horizon

[hjc]

I forgot to add, unless you have the nitro evader don't buy the rear arms that are listed. They won't fit the electric evader.

[hjc]

Overlapping posts :) Yes it was all from tower. About $150+ worth (!) once I could convince them my credit card wasn't stolen...

[RCA14]

o nevermind sorry your link led me right to them thanks

[RCA14]

If anyone wants to see every aluminum part made for the evader i've got it in my wish list here http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTW0147p?&C=ARCE_R970&L=007&H=05 u can ignore the other sruff such as the brushes and little things i need.

[microrcdude]

RCA14,
you live in wilsonville? im in vancouver! where do you race?

[RCA14]

Actually i don't race i just bash around my backyard with two of my friends. We built a small track in my backyard to drive on but i may start some real racing soon. One of my friends has a nitro evader and the other one has a t4. he and i both have the Trinity D6, i have an 8-turn and he has a 9-turn. lol i know they're low turns but our cars fly.

[Ironeater]

I'm looking at getting a new stadium truck but I'm having trouble deciding on which one to get. I'm mainly looking at the traxxas rustler and the duratrax evader. Since they are both fairly good priced I want to get the one that would be more durable and require less maintenance. Speed and performance matter too but I will not be racing so I want the one that will be the more durable basher. Thanks!

[orbitron]

I own an evader and my best friend owns a rustler, in my opinion the rustler is way more durable. We've jumped it off of 20ft ramps with no damage. However, the rusler is missing some niceties such as ball bearings, foams in tires, not as much adjustability in the suspension. If you want a basher the rustler is best if you want a basher that you can fool with, like a hobby, go with the evader

[Megazone23]

I looked at the Rustler when I bought my Evader, and I went with the Evader for the very reasons orbitron mentioned. I liked the fact that it had a lot of higher end features. I don't jump off 20 ft ramps, but I run it pretty hard, and I've only broken the rear tranny brace. A few crashes by all rights should have broken at least 3 suspension arms and probably a shock tower, too, but it bounced right back.

[Megazone23]

Okay, I knew I shouldn't have posted that I've only broken one thing so far. I was running my Evader this afternoon, and after a poorly launched jump, it augured into the far side of a ditch and quit running. After a few minutes of checking everything, I've found that the positive lead inside the Tamiya connector that is connected to the ESC has been pushed back in the housing, so that it is causing a poor connection. It is about 1/8" further inside the housing than the negative lead.

Does anyone know of an easy way to fix this? I know a lot of you are going to say "Yeah, cut it off and replace it with Deans connectors" but I'd rather not. Yeah, I know, it's a better connection, but I'd prefer just sticking with the Tamiya plugs since I don't race and I really don't want to replace all the connectors on my batteries, too.

[elecracr]

no problem, just get a small screwdriver that can fit inside there, and psh it back into the original spot, it should work fine then, you didnt really break anything, just had a minor holdup on running. Haha. When you start running faster motors eventhough you are just a basher you will want to change to deans though, because they are much more efficient and wont melt near as easily.

[Megazone23]

Well, I think the positive lead has melted itself firmly in place, but as it turns out, I don't think that's the problem. I tried my other batts, and they didn't have any kind of intermittent connection problem. I think the leads in this particular pack may have separated or something to cause an intermittent short :(

[cjg]

I would switch to dean's plugs. The tamiya's will get looser and looser. I actually saw my neighbor's associated t3 catch fire when the tamiya plug melted. Tamiya plugs are nothing but trouble in the long run.

[Megazone23]

There's a weird part of me that thinks that would be really f'g cool to see! lol

[elecracr]

Well, burning rc's are funny to watch, as long as they arent yours. My evader caught on fire once due to a loose connection, i frieked out.

[dug]

does any one have any advice on a goo cheaper esc that can go down to about 14 turns..?

[elecracr]

Well, whats your idea of cheap, i would suggest going down to atleast 12 turns so you dont have to buy another later. For up to around 70 dollars you can get some nice esc's.

[guver]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138743

[guver]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1578223&posted=1#post1578223

this one's a 12 turn.

[emaxxrdr88]

someone plz post a pic of the back shocks mounted on a full pic plz idk if theve always been like this but there loose at the bottom

[Chaos-racer]

Hello Everyone,

I don't know if I'm doing this right. Am I posting a new question or answering somebody's question. If I'm posting incorrectly, please let me know.

My name is Pao Vue and I'm new to this forum and escpecially new to the RC world. After some research, I recently got myself a Duratrax Evader ST. Took it out for a couple of test run and did some jump with it. Unfornately, I've already broken the Front Suspension Arm (left) and the Shockend. I know there are replacement parts but I'm not familiar with with taken it apart.

How do I take disconnect the arm from the steering device so that I can put the new arm in place?

Also, do they (Hobby shops) carry the shock end by itself or do I have to purchase a whole new shock?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your time and assistance.

Sincerely,

Pao Vue (chaos-racer)

[emaxxrdr88]

Man my evader st is touch as a bag of rocks! Im giving it the worst bashings I've ever given an RC car and no parts are breakin. and btw i have a new team orion 19t ball bearing hand wound that i just dropped in my evader that flies!

Examples:

1.Full speed into a car jack with no frame.
2.Full speed into my moms truck tire.
3.atleast 20 feet long jumps with some bad landings
4. off a kicker getting 5' of air and hit my neighbor in the head
5. And just plain old bashing the crap out of it as hard as I can everyday.

I was across the street at my neighbors with my brother and i had my kicker ramp set up. they were all laying in front of it and in order to make it over them i had to jump like 15 feet. There were 6 of my freinds laying on their stomach in the ground in front of the kicker and i didnt go off the ramp right and came up a little short and i landed right on my freinds head. LoL his head was even bleeding it was funny but painful

[davetexas22]

Wat up?
Im geting a new D5 10t d for my evader
Heres my question... Will I fry the differential? My friend told me I could'nt because i dont have a stealth diff.
Keep in mind that I race...

Eric from NJ

What pinion and spur gears are you planning on using for your new 10x2 motor?

[pudder]

haha, thats a pretty funny story man!

[RCA14]

hardcoredriver ur differential will be fine i have a 8x2 trinity d6 spinning about 52,000 rpm in my evader and its running great. make sure u have a low enough pinion, i'm using a 15t u should probly do the same.

[noonizzlecfl]

wats the best gearing for the evader with a trinity p2k2 pro stock motor and team orion 3000 battery pack and 12t esc

[elecracr]

Try stock gearing, maybe one tooth lower?

[microrcdude]

try 18/87. It's what all the evaders are running here.

[2.0dohc]

is any one racing the pro version?

[noonizzlecfl]

should i always use the stock spur no matter what?

[J_Bone]

I want to know if the PRO version is better???? I'm considering buying a Evader but can't decide which one??

[pudder]

The pro version comes better equipped than the regular prebuilt.

[microrcdude]

the pro is made of better material, and has a cooler body along with better electronics.

[Comatose]

Hello just thought id I would say that I will be reciving my new evadar in the mail within a few hours, the joy!

[Comatose]

Just got in from the first run nothing major just up and down the street across the lawn and im happy with its performance. The only problem I had was installing the steering servo they make it seem so simple in the manual :/

[jpw]

I just ordered my new evader, should be in next week. I have been reading your posts and I am learning alot. I'm new to R/C so I'm sure I will be asking alot of questions. Just thought I would say hello to everyone.

[DRdave]

Hi I am new also to this forum here is a pic of my Evader (the stars and stripes) And a Kyosho Tracker :)

[DRdave]

hey where is my pic? :mad:

[2.0dohc]

which diff gear is everybody using, I read somewhere to use an aftermarket one for a B3??? but tower doesn't carry it any more, can I use the stock B3 gear?

[microrcdude]

no, B3 gears wont fit in any other diff housings other than the B3/T3 gearbox.

[jpw]

Which pinion set from Robinson should I buy first odd or even? Or does it make a difference.

[guver]

I would get odd, you already have a 20 tooth.

[microrcdude]

well, just get all pinions 15T to 20T. they are all youll need for your evader.

[guver]

Hi to drdave and jpw and comotose, welcome and have fun with evaders. I still have lots of fun after 2 years with mine.

[jpw]

Is it the lower the no. of teeth the faster your car goes or is it higher? Thanks for the welcome guver!

[pudder]

Higher number of pinion teeth increase top speed.

[davetexas22]

Does anybody have a close idea what pinion and spur to run with 10x2 Trinity D6 motor in an Evader St. I just need an idea so that I don't run the motor hot. By the way I have an unlimited turn speed control.

[elecracr]

I would say 12 pinion and work your way up checking for heat.

[guver]

yup, I agree, but will the motor go that close? to mesh?

If not, I have used a 90 tooth spur, but the clear cover won't fit.

[DRdave]

hey where is my pic? :mad:
can anyone help me out on how to post pic.

[DRdave]

can anyone help me out on how to post pic.
this is driving me crazy.

[guver]

Looks good...

[DRdave]

Thanks dude. I would like to know can I lock the diff on this evader, and can it be done any other way other than using jb weld (it just seems so permanent) Also will there be any adverse effects other than increasing the turning radius. :rolleyes:

[elecracr]

Well, you can tighten the nut in the differential witha the allen wrench, but it will make your handling much poorer.

[Novak76]

hey there im new to this forum but not new to the evader
ive had mine for about 2 years and love it
but i ran into a problem last night while rebuilding the gear box. i was going
to put in a new top shaft and found the one of the bearing seem to be
pressed on so i pryed that off and now i cant get the new bearing on the
new top shaft.

i was just wondering if anybody else has ran into this problem and what is
the solution?

Thanx

[microrcdude]

the soulution? get a new bearing. sounds like yours is shot.

[Novak76]

after prying off the old bearing i got a new bearing

[davetexas22]

I have had the Evader St for several weeks now and the gear box seems to have gotten louder. I took the tranny apart cleaned the gears and regreased all the gears etc. The clicking noise is still there and I set the diff 1/8 turn back however the spring looks to be worn. Any ideas on less noise and proper setting of the tranny.

[Novak76]

my evader tranny was making noise and i couldnt find the problem then i took
a close look at my top shaft and it was bent

i finally got the new bearings on the new top shaft
i had to use a vise and a small socket the gently tap the bearing on
it sound like new now

[microrcdude]

Good thinking! i think ill use that on my stubborn axle bearings.

[DRdave]

I have had the Evader St for several weeks now and the gear box seems to have gotten louder. I took the tranny apart cleaned the gears and regreased all the gears etc. The clicking noise is still there and I set the diff 1/8 turn back however the spring looks to be worn. Any ideas on less noise and proper setting of the tranny.
I think it is your pinion being to tight against the spur. this happened to me yesterday, I set the distanst with a piece of paper tightened it up took it out for a drive and heard clicking. So I backed off the pinion with thicker paper and the noise went away. good luck.

[2.0dohc]

There is a new indoor track near me, and I feel like doing a little racing. Its a carpet track with no jumps, but there is going to be a stock truck class. Any ideas on how I should set up my truck? Right now its a stock pro.

[pudder]

I race carpet every winter with my T3, it is really fun and it would be good for you to try. There are a couple different setups that will work on the carpet, I'm not sure how to fine tune an evader as well as my T3, but I did use to race my evader on carpet with a stock setup which did okay at the time.

Here are a few tips that will help you:

It is a good idea to lower your truck by adding shock travel limiters inside your shocks with fuel tubing. You will have to figure out how low you want your truck. I have a good article on how to do this: http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/lowering_your_truck.htm

Running the right spring/oil combination is critical to your setup as well. I like running hard springs with my lowered setup and in my T3 I use 80wt oil. I have seen other guys run thick oil with soft springs too, but that doesnt suit my style.

SInce you will be running on a carpet track, if you want to race there often, you will probably need/want a set of foam tires. You can purchase foam tires from brands like TRC and JACO. I used JACO tires on my Evader, but I had to drill out the rear axle holes a bit for them to fit (meant for T3's).

Thats just a few basic things to think about. If you need any more carpet setup help just send me an email.

[jpw]

i bought a rtr st, the one you had to add your own radio and servo. I wrecked the front end, possible missing parts. Do you think Duratrax will work on my truck?

[dug]

if you broke plastic parts then it will be under stress tech warranty, just take the broken parts to your dealer/hobby shop and they should send it to dura trax and you have new parts. i dont know if they would fix it for you.........eney ways heres sum pix of my evader it wasnt running very well i need a new esc so here are some pics for yall

[dug]

these picks are pretty pove coz me car was goin pove so yeh an early back view of it

[Wizardman_1]

Were those ramps easy to make, they look nice. I build my jumps from dirt but after a couple of runs they get dusty and lose form and dont work as well anymore.

[microrcdude]

I was watching DIY, and they say to build your jumps twice as big as you want them. they will slowly get smaller, perfect for racing.

[jpw]

I've read what you guys do to your cars. Do your cars take all of this punishment and why when i hit a chair my steering go. Do i need a new servo with metal gears?

[orbitron]

jpw - you could just buy new gears and loosen your servo saver as much as you can. If thats not enough, cut one loop out of the spring in the servo saver.

[kurrz]

new to r/c just bought an evader st great truck want to possibly race it is that probable if not its fun around the yard and gravel pit

[kurrz]

any upgrade suggestions and could i drop in a 15x2 motor with stock components any feed back greatly appreciated

[jpw]

Orbitron, I found the some teeth on my servo arm were missing, does Duratrax make metal servo arms. I couldn't find any on Tower, you know any that might work? Thank!

[Megazone23]

jpw, I stripped my stock servo even with the servo saver loosened all the way (I didn't try cutting the spring). I just replaced it with a Futaba S3305, which is a high-torque servo with metal gears and ball bearings, and I haven't looked back.

$37.99 at Tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML


kurrz, the stock ESC is rated for 20T motors, but it will handle 19T motors fine. I wouldn't use it with a 15T. I have a 19T Chameleon Pro 2 that runs great on it. As for other upgrades, I would recommend upgrading as you break. :D My first upgrade was an aluminum rear tranny brace, and I upgraded the front bulkhead and hinge brace with aluminum bits at the same time just because. I also found the stock 20W shock oil to be a bit soft for bashing around the yard, so I replaced it with 40W, and it seems to be a bit better.

[orbitron]

jpw - not as far as I know. Any servo arm will fit if it's made specifically for a futaba servo. You have to get inventive with the installation but make sure you get a futaba compatible servo arm. I got some associated one and it worked fine.

[microrcdude]

Just to let ya know. Associated's servo arms are made of hard plastic. So, they wont flex.

[kurrz]

thanks megazone23 just wondering did that motor make your truck considerably faster or just broader power also thanks for the advice on parts breakage

[Megazone23]

The difference between the Photon Speed and the CP2 was a lot greater than I expected. With my GPS strapped to it on a nasty hot Texas summer afternoon, it achieved a top speed of 26 mph, which is about 5 mph faster than when it was all stock. Of course, some of that was due to changing from the stock tires to the Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs, which are slightly larger diameter, as well as going to a 21T pinion.

I usually bash around the yard/street/neighborhood at WOT, and I notice that I don't have to clean the brushes or comm nearly as often as I did with the stocker.

If you really want, I can slap in the Photon Speed with the 21T pinion for a direct comparison.

In other news, I just bought a used E-Maxx with low miles on eBay! :D Reading up on it, I'm now toying with the idea of putting a 550 motor on the Evader. Has anyone done this?

[kurrz]

thanks for the info sounds like the CP2 is the way to go and would you suggest those tires also

[TeamMishap]

I put a Hacker B50-12S on my Evader, which I used to replace the two 550s on my Emaxx. Not good on the tranny, but all kinds of fun until the tranny died. Kind of hard to control with all that power.



In other news, I just bought a used E-Maxx with low miles on eBay! :D Reading up on it, I'm now toying with the idea of putting a 550 motor on the Evader. Has anyone done this?

[Megazone23]

Kurrz, I can gladly recommend the CP2, which btw is a modified motor.
CP2 Pro $37.99 @ TH (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVJ4&P=ML)
Others have also had great results with the P2K2 Pro, which is a 27T stocker.
P2K2 Pro $28.99 @ TH (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVJ2&P=ML)

TeamMishap, you probably bring up a very good point with the controllability issue. As it is, it's REALLY easy to do donuts with the CP2 Pro. I can only imagine that would be even easier with a 550 installed. Still, it has me curious! :rolleyes:

As far as the Maxx is concerned, I found some Johnson 550 motors that are supposed to be a lot more powerful than the Titans, and they're only $15 with shipping. All they need are some capacitors to be soldered on (where they go, I'm not sure though) and the wires to be attached. Oh no, the upgrade bug is biting already, and I don't even have it in my hot little hands yet! :eek:

[jpw]

Thanks for all of your help guys, looks like we got thing running for now.

[kurrz]

Megazone23 thanks fairly new to RC what are the main differences between a modified and a stock motor