Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[orbitron]

stock motor has 27 turns of wire around the armature and a set degree of timing (which I know nothing about), while a modified motor will have less turns, and the timing is adjustable.

since a modified motor has less weight around the armature it will get up to speed quicker, therefore higher acceleration. I think it also has less resistance than a stocker so it will actually spin faster as well. Therefore, more rpms as well. However, the higher rpms will take more power so it will use batteries up quicker.

Summary: overall the I think the spec classs motor is the best of both worlds. It has 19 turns so it is a good balance between power and run time. I am currently using a p2k stock motor. It is amazing the power that stock, racing quality motors have. they will stomp on the photon that is installed in a stock evader.

Have fun and don't get too much power before you know how to control it.

[Megazone23]

Kurrz, I think there are others who could explain much better than I can, since I think it mainly makes a difference when you race, and I don't race.

As I understand it, all stock motors are pretty much the same, which I suppose is intended to level the playing field. I think most stock motors use laydown brushes and the springs are wound the same for both positive and negative.

I think modifieds allow for more tweaking, such as timing adjustments. I think most modifieds use stand up brushes, and the springs are wound opposite for the positive and negative terminals.

If I'm wrong on any of this, someone please correct me.

[orbitron]

Megazone - I think you're right on the brushes thing. I never realized that but as far as I know you're right.

[kurrz]

thanks guys you have answered alot of my questions ill try not to pester you for answers for awhile

[Megazone23]

Bah -- that's why we're all here, to share information, right? :)

[kurrz]

thats what i was hoping being a newbie

[Megazone23]

I only got my Evader back in June, and the guys on this forum have all been a great help to me in learning about the hobby.

[orbitron]

Actually I have only been in for two years and my evader was my first vehicle. I have been through a couple since and this forum was by far the most helpful; people actually replied to questions.

[SST'99Pro]

hello!!! I've got an Evader for about 2 years and i'm constantly having problems with my diff gear... ii'm using a stock 17*2 from CS and the slipper is not full-tight....
I want to bulletprof the transmission department....
What do you guys use for bullet proof it???
I've heard that a B3 or b2 dif should work with some mods...
Please makes some inputs because i really like this truck .. but transmission SUCKS!! :p

[Megazone23]

I haven't had any trouble with my tranny, but if/when I find it necessary to make my tranny bulletproof, here's what's in store:
- metal idler gear from the Nitro Evader ($17)
- metal diff gear from HGI for the B2/T2 (This will require a slight mod since the bearing hole is English, and the Evader uses metric. $20 according to the HGI site. You'll also need to replace the bearings. If I recall correctly, you would need to use 10x5 mm bearings, but bearings are cheap.)
- carbide diff and thrust balls ($17)
- Associated Stealth diff rings (B2/Ts) and spring ($3)

This should make it about as indestructible as I can imagine. The Modfather made these upgrades, and he said his tranny is silky smooth.

[JLDirtKicker]

Just got a new Evader ST Electric for my son. I want to pick up some street tires for the rears so he can burn it up on the playground or on the driveway Xmas day. My LHS does not keep in stock Duratrax Wheels/Hubs. Are there other brands of 2.2" Hubs that will work for the Evader ST? I know the LHS has some ProLines, Losi, and AE hubs.

[Megazone23]

Any wheels that fit the Losi XX-T should fit the Evader ST. I think most people usually end up putting RPM wheels. I went with the Clawz. You can find them at Tower Hobbies. Here is the RPM site:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/wheels/truck/index.htm

As far as tires go, I fitted mine with Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs all around. They've held up great for me, and I put them on in June. I bash around the front yard (grass), street (rough concrete), and the school playgrounds (anything from hard packed dirt to loose dirt). Just for reference, the stock skins were bald in about a week after getting the truck. I've also heard that the Masher 2000s are great as well. I've bought a set to put on my E-Maxx.
http://www.prolineracing.com/proline.html

[DRdave]

Is anybody using the duratrax adjustable rear toe-in/anti-squat p/n dtxc6050 I just saw it on tower web site? show pics and post review. :rolleyes:

[kurrz]

hey megazone would you recommend the emaxx it looks like one awesome electric monster truck and there seems to be no direct competition and could you also tell me what you run for battery packs and what the usual run time is thanks

[ozzydude]

Is anybody using the duratrax adjustable rear toe-in/anti-squat p/n dtxc6050 I just saw it on tower web site? show pics and post review. :rolleyes:

Hey Dave...I was using this but one of the pivot blocks broke and as far as i know you can't buy one seperate so to me it's not worth it. Also you can buy it on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5918777163&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT This person also has other parts for less money for the evader.

[Megazone23]

kurrz, I can definitely recommend the E-Maxx. I got mine on eBay for $230 including shipping, and it's pretty much in brand new condition.

I had it out yesterday, and it is wicked fast and powerful. Even with the bowties that the previous owner put on it, it'll pull wheelies from a dead stop in tall grass. It's going to take a little getting used to driving it, since it's 4WD. No more sliding the rear around corners like the Evader.

My day was cut short by an unexpected trip into a ditch...filled with water. :eek: Fortunately, everything seems to be working fine. There was a point where it didn't want to respond, even after I blew everything out with a can of compressed air. But after I re-seated the connectors and crystal in the receiver and reprogrammed the ESC, it seemed to be happy again. I let it just sit the rest of the day just to be on the safe side.

As for batts, I'm just running some 3000mAh NiMHs from Radio Shack. Just hacking around the front yard with my neighbor, they seemed to last about 15 min, but I wasn't running it non-stop.

[kurrz]

thanks for the info saving for one now ill keep my eyes open on ebay

[DRdave]

Hey Dave...I was using this but one of the pivot blocks broke and as far as i know you can't buy one seperate so to me it's not worth it. Also you can buy it on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5918777163&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT This person also has other parts for less money for the evader.
thanks for the tip but my question to you is what made you decide to buy this? what are the advantages to installing this (if it did not break)

[SST'99Pro]

Megazone23! thanks for the reply....
I've seen the ModFather mod and i will use the same pieces he uses... Now is just order form tower and hope that it arrives just before Christmas...
thanks anyway for reply!
Ricardo

[Megazone23]

SST -- Hehe, The Modfather and I were in deep discussion on parts when he did that. You won't be disappointed.

Kurrz, when you search, try searching for "Emax" or "E-max", too. Mine was listed as "Emax", and as such, I think a lot of people missed it in their searches.

[JLDirtKicker]

[QUOTE=Megazone23]Any wheels that fit the Losi XX-T should fit the Evader ST. I think most people usually end up putting RPM wheels. I went with the Clawz. You can find them at Tower Hobbies. Here is the RPM site:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/wheels/truck/index.htm

I got the Losi XXX-T RR Solid Wheels part # A-7154 from LHS. The same LHS that the day before said no you will have to order those...Duratraxx uses only there wheels on their cars. I put some Proline Speed hawgs on this set and will try some others that have been suggested for off-road.

Also picked up some CA Tire glue...How much glue and where? A small bead around the outer and inner rim where the tire meets the rim? Or do I pry back the tire just a bit to get the glue more on the inside of the rim?

[JLDirtKicker]

Are there many or any other truck bodies that fit on the evader ST. Would like to paint up something unique for the truck other than the basic six color shells.

[ozzydude]

thanks for the tip but my question to you is what made you decide to buy this? what are the advantages to installing this (if it did not break)

I bought it thinking it was all metal including the pivot blocks so when i got it i was not to happy cause i knew it was gonna break and of course it did. That was the only reason i bought it but with washers under the pivot block you can adjust toe which is really a small amount that doesn't amount to much. So i just bought a bunch of extra original plastic ones for spares. Hope this helps ya :)

[Megazone23]

JLDirtKicker, when you have the foams and tires mounted, just push the tire off the rim and put a couple drops down into the bead channel. Then do the same 180 degrees around from there. I used the thin CA and was then able to let the glue flow around to the rest of the rim from those two points by pushing the tire back from the rim just enough to let the glue flow in the channel. Once the glue was all the way around, I put rubber bands around the tires to let it set. Do only one side at a time.

BTW, another trick I read about is to trim the corners of the foams to help them settle into the tire better, since the "corners" of the tires tend to be rounded instead of squared off like the foams. This also keeps the inner edge of the foam from getting into the bead channel and compromising the bond between the tire and rim.

As for bodies, again, anything that fits the Losi XX-T or XXX-T should fit the Evader as is. Pro-Line makes a Crowd Pleazer for the XXX-T that I've heard fits it perfectly.

[kurrz]

anybody else out there live in a cold winter climate? duratrax says not to run in the cold what is cold? i live in maine and right now daytime highs in the 40's. thanks for the emax tip megazone

[pudder]

Well they might say that becuse parts are more brittle in the cold.

[Megazone23]

Maybe the warning is more for the nitro crowd, since the thermal expansion that occurs in the cylinder sleeves and piston heads can cause damage to the nitro engines.

[orbitron]

kurrs - I'm from Canada and I get cold weather. There is a problem with driving the truck in the cold. Parts break like crazy. I found from experience that about 10 degrees celcius is the point of no return. The elasticity of the plastic collapses about this point. Meaning the plastic gets hard and brittle.

If anyone is new to the forums I have a few good tips on my website http://www.orbitracing.tk I don't know tons about stuff, but it's at least a good place to start.

[Wizardman_1]

It also says to boil you parts if you're running in cold weather so that they flex easier, the bad part is when it gets warm again, your parts might have too much flex. Running in cold also gets grease kind of gummy and the tranny would be as smooth as it should.

[Megazone23]

orbitron, nice site! I particularly like the welcome video. Does your internal antenna mod have any effect on range? I'm thinking I may have to go that route if I ever get around to painting my own body.

[orbitron]

I can get about 50m out of it. I guess that's about 150ft?? Thanks for the compliments.

[Megazone23]

So how did you decide on that particular antenna configuration?

[orbitron]

Well, I was told that it would be good to mount the receiver as high as I could so naturally, I chose the front brace. Then, I figured to get the maximum length out of the antenna so i just figured the closest place to start it was on the front shock tower. The good thing about this is that the antenna itself is quite high and it tucks in right under the body just nicely. I don't think it affected range at all.

[JLDirtKicker]

Orbitron....is your webpage down?....have tried with 3 differnet puters and can't get in.

[orbitron]

doesn't seem to be...
try http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf
that might work.

[JLDirtKicker]

doesn't seem to be...
try http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf
that might work.

Nice website....I digging all of the tips from this forum.

[chadori rc'er]

hello all
i am going to start racing offroad and i have some questions about the evader.
1. what is the competiveness of the evader.
2. has anyone had any sort of success with the evader.
3. i have heard that the evader won the 2002 rccaraction truck shootout. does any know what trucks it was againts.
4. do the evader pro parts fit on the normal evader.
5. is the evader pro competive.

thanks for any replies.

[orbitron]

the chassis stiffness was the achilles heel of the evaders competiveness as far as i know. That has been fixed with the pro version. and I think the pro version is the same truck except with the different composite parts. so yes they will fit.

[Megazone23]

Yes, the Pro version is the same truck.

[microrcdude]

The pro version is pretty much the same with pretty much all the optional components.

[chadori rc'er]

would the evader st pro be as good as the t4 and xxx t's.

[Megazone23]

At the risk of being an armchair quarterback (since I don't race), I would say go ahead and get the Evader Pro, because I think it's still more bang for the buck than the T4 or the XXX-T. Start your racing career, and then if you find that the truck can no longer keep up with your skills, then upgrade.

If you have friends who have one of the other trucks, you might see if they'll let you test drive them to see if you can tell a difference in handling, etc. I would venture a guess that in the beginner classes, skill will have a greater affect on outcome than hardware.

[guver]

I don't race either, but it sure sems the pro is way over priced.

[pudder]

The Evader Pro comes with better gear than base model T4's or XXXT's but you have to think of other things as well. If you are planning on racing, keep spare parts with you all the time, some track shops may not carry Duratrax parts, but almost always carry AE and Losi parts. The Evader will also not sell for as much as a T4 or XXXT would down the road.

If you're thinking about racing a lot, go with a T4 or XXXT, bashing it doesnt matter so much.

Thats just my 2 cents

[Megazone23]

Really? I thought that other than the older chassis design, the other components were comparable to or better than what you got with the T4 or the XXX-T, plus it's graphite, which is supposed to be better for racing unless I'm mistaken. Of course, the last time I did any real comparisons among the three was back in June, so prices probably have shifted quite a bit.

[kurrz]

i dont think it is all that fair to say the evader pro is over priced most parts are graphite you get a 15t team orion motor a futaba 2pl radio system and a nice duratrax esc i almost bought it but im more of a basher and wanted to choose my own upgrades so i got the original and love it but every where ive looked the other two trucks are more race bred and the prices are around the same my two cents

[Wizardman_1]

With all the opinions it has the pro is not over-priced, just look at the losi stuff, now that is overpriced.

[guver]

the t-4 rtr special edition or the factory team kit is 225-239

the evst pro is 269 the only better is the tx and I have those for $29.00

[guver]

I was really , however comparing it to the std evst at $169 that's what I meant when I said overpriced.

[Wizardman_1]

Thats true, its the graphite and rear plate. Has anybody tried the new rear plate yet?

[guver]

No, but I'm getting one for my regular evst

there's a kit with the pivots too for $20

[bsoder]

I am getting a pair of evader STs for my son and myself for Christmas. I've read through this message thread, and I want to make sure I'm summarizing correctly. It appears there are a few things that should probably be done before running the trucks in order to prevent damage, am I missing anything? The items I plan on doing (before Xmas while he's at school :rolleyes: ) are -

Replace the hinge pin brace with aluminum part
Servo saver modification (http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/)
ball diff & slipper adjustment (http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/diff.html) - is this necessary before running?

Are there any more tweaks that would be recommended before running these trucks?

I have one other question, regarding batteries. I'm getting four 2400 mAh NiCd packs, and a DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Twin Pulse Charger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXXG87). I know I'm supposed to slow charge the batteries for the first charge. Can I use the lower charge rate (1A, per the charger instructions this rate is actually for charging transmitter batteries) to do this?

[guver]

servo -saver have to at least check it b-4 you crash into one wheel.

ball and diff check after 1 easy run ( to break in motor and battery)

Your idea on the battery at 1 amp is a good idea. It should take about 2.5 hours each, I would recommend it.

[orbitron]

Yep sounds like you're on track. Enjoy your trucks. Be cautious if it's cold out. The truck breaks easily if it's less than 10 degrees celsius outside.

[bsoder]

Fortunately I live in Phoenix. :)

[jpw]

i've run a 3300 mah battery in my st, makes it quick, am i hurting my motor and if so how badly?

[guver]

No, not any more than normal. Just normal wear and tear.

[pudder]

You just run your truck longer since the packs run longer, but it really doesnt matter much. I've been running 3300's prettymuch since they came out on all of my vehicles and it is great.

[jpw]

Thanks guys, I had been told they have more power then say the 15's and that they would burn up my motor faster.

[guver]

That's true. they will have more power (twice as long)

[bsoder]

Technically, they shouldn't burn your motor up faster. If your motor has, say a lifespan of 500 minutes (no idea if that is anywhere in the ballpark or not) then you'll use up that lifespan in fewer packs - but you should still get roughly the same number of minutes out of that motor, just more minutes per pack. I guess if you run the better packs as frequently as you would run the cheaper ones, then your motor will die faster. :)

On another note, my pair of trucks arrived from Tower yesterday. I replaced the hinge pin brace on each of them before putting them into the Xmas closet :) I'm amazed how few components there are. My last RC car was a Tamiya Falcon, about 15-20 years ago, seems things have changed a bit... I remember how crowded everything was on that car. :)

[twoforme2]

Thanks guys, I had been told they have more power then say the 15's and that they would burn up my motor faster.

I am new to this stuff and have no clue really about RC stuff, however being an electronics tech I can tell you this: There is no more POWER in a 3000maH battery than a 1500maH battery. There is more CAPACITY! that is what the maH (milliamp hour) rating is. In other words the 1500mah battery is rated for 1500ma or 1.5 amps draw for 1 hour before the cells need to be recharged. The 3000maH battery is rated for 3000ma or 3.0 amp draw for one hour before the cells need to be recharged.
So a higher CAPCITY battery will not do anything other than let you run longer before changing batteries.

[twoforme2]

BTW I want to thank all of you for all of your insight into the Evader. I just purchased 4 of them today as Christmas presents (one for each kid, one for me, and one for my wife).
I just read through all 43 pages of this thread and hope I have received enough knowledge to get things going and have some sort of clue as to what to do with these things.
So thanks again to everyone, and I am sure I will be back with stupid questions in about 10 days...man, why did I have to start this process 10 days before Christmas! after reading all this stuff I wanna play with it RIGHT NOW!!!

[guver]

Haha sounds like a lot of fun...did you get all st's ?

[twoforme2]

Haha sounds like a lot of fun...did you get all st's ?

YUP...all trucks. Thought about the buggies, but the boys enjoy trucks, so I just got them all alike, different colors of course so we can tear up the new grass we planted in the back yard as a family! :eek:

[Megazone23]

Sounds like an awesome Christmas waiting to happen! You rock as a Dad!!

[kvrc]

just to let you guys know, it is harder on your rc motors to run them for say 10 minutes straight than to run it for 5 minutes let cool and run for another 5 minutes. in the first five minutes whitch is what normal runtime use to be until nimh batteries came along, the motor is progressivly getting hotter. the next 5 minutes you run it it will be very hot and getting hotter. the only motors that arent hurt too bad by running them for long periods are the mabuchi style motors like the ones that come with the rustler and stampede.

[evaderstracr]

could I fix my bulhead with j.b. weld???? :eek: :confused:

[pudder]

Yes you could but it might break again. Its best to get new part asap.

[EPST5800SS]

hi guys i need some doff help. i have been through too many diffs for my liking. would like to know of any mods to strengthen my diff. i have a novak 5800ss brushless in my evader.
any help is really appreciated.
tom

[EPST5800SS]

i run pro-line gladiators with a b/l setup on my evader and they are well worth the money. plenty of grip and the flex like all hell under full thottle.

tom


Ok Im getting an Evader ST in a few days.
I already have a couple 2400mah packs for it ! Honestly, I have not read this entire thread yet (It's BIG!).

Im wondering if anyone has compiled a list of bodies that will fit ?

And what about tires, just "some" Losi's and ProLine Dirt Hawgs ?

I know I shouldnt expect it but Im merely hoping someone has put together this info.

Thanks !

[Megazone23]

EPST, here is what I would do if I were to rebuild my tranny.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1613580&postcount=1010

[kurrz]

EPST ive heard that most any bodies tires and wheels that fit the losi will also fit the evader i think i read it on this thread somewhere somebody correct me if im wrong

[bsoder]

Can anyone tell me if this body - Ford Bronco (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDA52&P=7) - will fit on an ST?

[pudder]

It would but you need to have different body posts. You would have to buy body posts and mount them on your truck somehow.

[bsoder]

Ok. What do people normally use to mount new posts? epoxy? hose clamps to the old posts? :)

[Megazone23]

I've seen some people take a heat gun to some aftermarket body posts (not sure what kind, though) and basically bend them to fit their needs.

[EPST5800SS]

i am having some trouble locating the b2 metal/ally diff gear for the bullet proof diff upgrade. can some of my fellow state side members help me? i am in australia.

tom


I haven't had any trouble with my tranny, but if/when I find it necessary to make my tranny bulletproof, here's what's in store:
- metal idler gear from the Nitro Evader ($17)
- metal diff gear from HGI for the B2/T2 (This will require a slight mod since the bearing hole is English, and the Evader uses metric. $20 according to the HGI site. You'll also need to replace the bearings. If I recall correctly, you would need to use 10x5 mm bearings, but bearings are cheap.)
- carbide diff and thrust balls ($17)
- Associated Stealth diff rings (B2/Ts) and spring ($3)

This should make it about as indestructible as I can imagine. The Modfather made these upgrades, and he said his tranny is silky smooth.

[Megazone23]

Here's their website:
http://www.1hg.com/home/Indexnf.htm

[EPST5800SS]

thanks guys and thanks megazone. i have just ordered the evader nitro idler gear from my LHS as well as the carbide balls. will now have to get the diff gear from HGI and diff rings from my LHS although they did look at me cross-eyed when i mentioned the B2. without you fellas i would noy have known such a mod existed. now its a waiting game.
thanks again.
tom.

[bsoder]

Tom, when you put this together, take some pics and post them, it'd be nice to see the changes.

Brian

[EPST5800SS]

no probs bsoder will do for sure. currently on HGI site and piecing together a deal. seeing freight for australia is a handful may as well make the purchase worth while. is it safe to assume a majority of the associated/losi xxx gear will fit the evader as i know that beyond b2/b3 the diffs started to get smaller. i am sure HGI wil point me i nthe right direction though.
keep you posted.
tom.

[EPST5800SS]

I actually got a venom speedmeter for birthday from my girl. its a gadget factor for me really and also a test bench for when i do mods and it dont take much to move from car to car. my boys evader clocked 30 kmh and i took my evader out to a racecourse car park which is asphalt as far as the eye can see(almost) and i clocked 72kmh in 2 directions over 100 metres i brought it back in and recalibrated just to make sure i wasnt seeing things. i took it back out and i think because of the peak was off the 3300 i was getting 68-70kmh. although still a little skeptical i am somewhat happy with the brushless and it done this all without any over heating or comm cutting. its a good tool but thats about it. just like a real car you can service your diff or clutch or whatever when the trip meter lapses X amount of distance.

tom.



So I was thumbing through the August issue of RC Car Action and saw an ad for this: Venom Speedmeter (http://www.venom-racing.com/product/vsm/index.htm)

Anybody have experience with this little puppy? It's completely superfluous, adds nothing to the performance, yet is so enticing because of the data it gathers (speed, max speed, trip odometer, lifetime odometer, voltage meter). Yes, I am TechnoGeek! Here me roar! :cool:

BTW, Modfather, there's an article in there about overhauling your tranny that you might find of interest.

[TeamMishap]

Got some Evader CVDs for Xmas. Nice!

Anyone know if the EVST Pro aluminum rear chassis plate is a direct bolton to the regular Evader?

Merry Christmas from Germany. Wish we had the snow that the Midwest got this past week.

[guver]

It should fit along with the rear susp mnts and spacers. I hope it works, I have one on its way.

[twoforme2]

Well the whole family got to unwrap the Evaders this morning...did not get through one pack. Have two with broken rear chassis plates, one also has a broken motor gaurd. The third has stripped the servo (at least that is how it acts) and the motor turns but the pinion and spur gear are no longer engaged with each other, I am hoping that is just an adjustment.
At least one of the four still works! Hope the LHS is open tomorrow!
It was kinda cold out, so am hoping that is why it happened so easily, however I may still upgrade to Aluminum rear chassis plates at the least.

[bsoder]

My son and I took ours out today as well, we made it through a couple of packs each, he broke the rear chassis plate as well. Is this a common breakage part? Sure sounds like it is today... :)

The replacement part from Tower is $5.49, the aluminum one is $16.99. One concern I have tho - how much weight does adding a bunch of aluminum parts add?

[guver]

sounds like my first one......

[bsoder]

another question - looks like you have to not only buy the chassis plate, but the suspension mounts as well for another $10. Those mounts are plastic, are they going to break as easily as the stock plate?

Edited to add - Just broke the rear chassis plate on our other truck too.

Edited again to add - can anyone tell me whether there's a difference between

aluminum chassis plate (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWN3&P=7) plus suspension mounts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHWN7&P=V)

as compared to

combined parts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000644780&I=LXHEE3&P=K)

The combined parts are about $5 or $6 cheaper. Good way to go? What other parts are prone to breakage/should get spares of while ordering?

[twoforme2]

Well the whole family got to unwrap the Evaders this morning...did not get through one pack. Have two with broken rear chassis plates, one also has a broken motor gaurd. The third has stripped the servo (at least that is how it acts) and the motor turns but the pinion and spur gear are no longer engaged with each other, I am hoping that is just an adjustment.
At least one of the four still works! Hope the LHS is open tomorrow!
It was kinda cold out, so am hoping that is why it happened so easily, however I may still upgrade to Aluminum rear chassis plates at the least.

well I was able to scavange parts from one with a broken chassis plate to fix the one with the bad servo. and it appears as though the screws that hold the motor to the mount were not tightened at the factory, as it moved itself away from the spur gear. Actually two of them have done this, I will get the other two checked tomorrow.

on to fixing the ones with the broken chassis plates, if I replace those with aluminum, then it appears as though the control arm would be the weak link then (when you strengthen one part the weakness does not go away it just moves, at least that has been my experience with everything else I have ever messed with).
Is there a possibility for aluminum rear control arms?
I seem them listed for the nitro evader st, but not the electric...are they the same?
The stock control arms for electric and nitro have different part numbers from Duratrax, so it could indicate a difference.
Anyone put the golden horizons rear control arms on their Electric evader ST yet?

[Wizardman_1]

You should have put threadlock on the motor screws like it says in the video, thats ok though just remember to do it before you run again. As for the servo there is a trick to cut a part of the servo saver spring and it will help the servo from stripping as easy. Thats what i did when my servo died and the next one survived without incident. As for the arm, i broke a front one on my bx very easy yesterday, its the cold weather. I wouldnt get aluminum arms if i were you too much weight and moves the weak point somewhere else.

[kurrz]

i also broke my rear chassis plate the other day it was the weather way to cold i have put it through way more abuse in warm weather with no problem hope you have better luck bsoder

[guver]

I just got my al rear plate today, will put together a street version for winter.....

Plate looks kinda flimsy.

[Wizardman_1]

Maybe you guys should try boiling the plate in some water before you run it and designate it as you winter plate. In the Duratrax website it says that it will help to make the part flex a little more than just break in cold weather.

[vetmxer]

i put a streak esc and a trinity nitronite 12t in my evader the other day. with the stock gearing this is the kind of speed i wanted this thing hauls like a nitro truck now. finally got above zero here in iowa (45 degree's today) so i didnt break anything but it is fast enough now to do some damage if i hit anything. :D that motor seems to run good for $32

[Wrobcio]

Hi. I've got duratrax evader st pro and I can't find few aluminium parts. I need aluminium differential gear, aluminium Idler gear & shaft, aluminium gearbox set. Please help me.

[Wizardman_1]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000341361&I=LXFZP0&P=K
^^Idler
I dont know what you mean about the gearbox set?

[vetmxer]

look on ebay

[Megazone23]

Wrobcio, see post #1078 above. I'm not sure what you mean by "gearbox set", either, since all the things that you mentioned make up the transmission. If you're referring to the tranny case, I don't think anyone makes an aluminum tranny case for the Evaders.

[bsoder]

got our new parts, everything is up and running again. :) The combo aluminum plate/suspension mounts part is the thing to get. Got spares of a bunch of other stuff (shock towers, arms, etc) as well.

Has anyone compiled a list of the parts that are interchangable between the evst and the losi xx(x?)-t? I broke my front bumper yesterday and replaced it with a losi part from the local hobbyshop, just wondering what else is interchangable.

[microrcdude]

Nothing really exept genaric stuff(wheels, so on)

[vetmxer]

wheels are i think too

[pudder]

Suspension arms and shock towers are, probably axle carriers too

[bsoder]

any other way to buy shock ends (the plastic piece that connects the shock to the suspension arm) other than by buying the whole kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK6&P=7)? We've broken three of the ends, but don't need all the other parts that come in the kit. Are the ball ends a specific size that I can buy separately, or better yet get in aluminum?

[vetmxer]

www.racers-edge.com makes aluminum shock ends. i think evaders have 3mm shafts

[bsoder]

great, thanks for the info. I replaced the rear shock ends with ball ends/cups that were cut down to the right length, the plastic is thicker and hopefully they'll just pop off rather than breaking. That gives me some extra shock ends for the front (where a ball end/cup setup won't fit.) If we keep breaking a lot of the shock ends, I'll get the aluminum ones. Thanks again vetmxer.

[EPST5800SS]

hello again people.
since doing my bulletptroof diff rebuild i have never looked back but...as the old saying goes...something is only as good as its weakest point/part..something like that anyway. the same applies here. my B/L evader ST clutch setup is almost cactus. the brass bushing inside the spur gear is almost none existent besides i recently melted the centre of the spur with the bushing. i see that other car makers have a very similar setup and i feel maybe the evaders design is flawed to a point. i have setup slipper plates before on my optimas and my sons evader. is it too much power for the evader to transfer by having a B/L system or are there other ways to get around this? maybe fit out with a losi setup? have any of you fellowe members encountered the same issue? if so what was the remedy? any help is always appreciated and karma is distributed evenly.

regards.
tom.

[Megazone23]

I wonder if there's some way to rig it with a bearing in place of the bushing.

[guver]

As the slipper pads get thin, the clutch will be squeezing the bushing instead. It won't matter how tite you have it it will slip. The fix is to reduce the thickness of the brass bushing. It will also hit the end of the stepped shaft. And again no matter how tie it is it will slip. If I remember a shim will fix it.

Either way it goes you want plenty of clearanc so that the tension is carried by the plates and washer . Oh I forgot the two plates will hit each other too, mill off the step and the center of the other one. Also can install a thicker slipper pad.

I hope all this makes sense. It's easier to do than to splain it.

[EPST5800SS]

this just in...
i replaced the bushing with a sealed bearing and it seems(so far so good) to have fixed my drama...for now. my brass bushing on the slipper is so worn it has grounded a washer into it. i still am not fully understood on your explanation guver but am doing my best to do so.

what i did was got a dremel(ahh dremel) and milled out the centre until the bearing fit. i have just come back from an experimental outing and so far so good its holding up. although the nature strip out the front is almost totally destroyed...is amazing what damage proline gladiators with a brushless behind it can do.

regards
tom.

[evaderstracr]

What size of bearings do you have to replace the slipper bushings?

[EPST5800SS]

i used the 4mmx10mm bearings i think i got it from my old ultima rb wheels. although the bearing could do with being a little thinner. it seemes to do the trick...for now. i just went out for another 10 minute session and things were sounding ok. sounds like a little more slip is occuring may have to check it out...damn work gets in the way of everything!!!

tom.

[Wizardman_1]

Why would you want to put a bearing? I thought that you wanted the most friction so that the clutch wouldnt slip. One idea i thought of was to somehow bond the two slipper plates so you would completely lock the clutch, it wouldnt be good for the tranny but it would stop the slipping. The diff would get a workout but you could always just set the diff really tight and put some threadlock on it so it wont back out.

[Maximillio1091]

hows it look any reccomendations?
the spur slipps all the time and i have no clue what to do, i adjust it but it always gets relly loud and screeches and takes a while to accelerate. p.s it always nose dives, any solutions?

[guver]

It really don't matter whats in there, as long as all the tension is held by the slipper and not anything else. If you put something too wide in there then it will not work.

[Maximillio1091]

so its nothing having to do with the motor and pinion?

[guver]

Motor & pinion should have nothing to do w/ slipper. something is holding the plates apart (instead of the pad) (if the nut & spring is bottommed out)

[EPST5800SS]

i put the bearing in there as the bushing was getting ground away and i fugured that the bearing has less turning resistance on the shaft as opppose to the bushing. i have put a brash washer ontop the bearing though so should any wear occur it will be on the brass bushing. anyway i took it apart to adjust the slip and it seems i had a layer of what seems to be flaky glue??? i think i may remove the lip on the clutch plate or just get thicker pads as someone mentioned before. can you get slipper pads in carbon??? can we use anothe makers slipper setup? losi xx maybe???
tom.

[pudder]

Losi uses dual slipper pads. Associated slippers are almost identical though, their pads may fit.

[Wizardman_1]

You should cut part of your battery sponge, about 1/4" and put it in front of the battery pack. It will help from nose diving, also pump the throttle a little while the truck is in the air. Just sand a little bit of the pads and they will work while you get some replacements. Check the diff to make sure that the differential is not the one slipping.

[elecracr]

If it screaches that may be the differential.

[Maximillio1091]

all rite thank alot guys

[EPST5800SS]

hey fellas. i just built my son and i a jump out of rc driver mag. it works for lack of a better word...awesome as my son puts it. it cost about $60AUD to make which is about 25cents US?...LOL just kidding. anyway we were going flat out and i decide to wind things up a notch and decide to go full angle as high as the vert would go. long story short i CLEARED a good 35 feet of distance and about 8 feet of air!!! and when on landing burst both my rear shocks. the B/L was ok so i didnt break the motor. there were kids everywhere laughing to see such a sight. so i now need some help on the shock rebuild or upgrade. mainly rebuild as i dont want to spend anymore money on it. i would say the jumping would be more conservative from now on...but it was a sight to see...
regards
tom.

[Novak76]

DTXC9056 This is the Shock Seal Set for the Evader ST it good for 2 shocks

this is probably all you need it runs about 3 bucks in the states

also the last time i bought those they only had 2 o-rings in the package and youll need 4 so i would get a package of spare o-rings too

[EPST5800SS]

thanks for the info novak i will be getting some on the next trip down the LHS.
thanks again.
tom.

[vetmxer]

ive been a subscriber to rc driver for 6-8 months now and i dont remember a jump building article. what issue was that?

[Megazone23]

vetmxer, I don't remember which issue it was, but I know I scanned it and filed it away for future reference. PM me.

[evaderstracr]

Will the losi truck front wheels work on the evader st truck?
Will the stock bearings fit in there just fine?

[pudder]

Yes Losi rims will work. The stock bearings should be okay, not 100% sure of it though.

[Novak76]

i run losi rims on my evader with the stock bearings.
works good

[EPST5800SS]

the jump article is in rc driver august 2004 issue 8 page 108. its the issue with the orange county chopper dudes on the front. i will be building at least another 3 more as they are a huge hit with the kids. i rebuilt my rear suspension again and have setup the shocks for jumping and man what a difference. i can now jump it almost at full speed and without smashing anything. get a good 8-12 feet air on almost full vertical. went through 4 packs and no leaks from the shocks and no broken parts so far just tearing a bit of foam rubber i stuck under the motor plate to keep the brushless in 1 piece. it also helps landing on grass and softish light packed dirt. i think the speed takes away the hard direct landing. i hope you get to make one and let me know how you all go.
enjoy...i sure as hell did.
tom.

[orbitron]

would you mind scanning those pages for us? That way we can build one too!

[Megazone23]

orbitron, PM me :)

[Maximillio1091]

What do u guys think is a good price for selling my evader its got 2 sets of wheels and tires, reedy 11t motor an duratrax intelli esc 8t and about 3 yrs or 75 hours into it

i was thinking 175-240??

thanx alot if u could help me out

[microrcdude]

What is its condition?

[elecracr]

A good estimate is the sum of everything divided by two.

[Maximillio1091]

elecracrc, you make a good point. The condition is higher than a "mild" standard. it not straight out of the box but its not falling apart either. it is cleansed every time its run in the dirt (3x a month). the body had its dings and dongs of course but other thn that its fine. i am going to look for any problems in the truck and replace them with new parts

[Megazone23]

Max, you might want to check completed auctions on eBay for similar rigs. That should give you an idea of what the market will bear.

[Maximillio1091]

well 200 would be perfect for me because since i am looking to buy the maxx i need a few bucks to add onto the money i already have, yet i do not want to go way over the reasonable price

[Megazone23]

So I was working on my Evader and E-Maxx last night and started wondering how the Evader would handle if I were to put one of the Maxx's 550 motors on it. Has anyone ever tried this?

[soccerman8712]

yea the evader kicks you know what but i have this problem? i have not run my car in awhile so i decided to pull it out.i turned on everything and try to get it to run but it would not turn the motor or turn the steering all it did was nothing.every so often it would twich but that is all..please help!!!!!

[pudder]

Check your wire connections between the battery and esc. If your esc isnt lighting up, you're probably not getting power.

[Megazone23]

Are your transmitter batteries fresh?

[soccerman8712]

Are your transmitter batteries fresh?umm..my remote batteries are not fresh but my 7 cell batterie is

[guver]

sounds like a radio problem.

[soccerman8712]

sounds like a radio problem.well i just fixed it all it needed was a new set of batteries thanks anyway

[soccerman8712]

any body know what is a good motor that can fit on the evader i just want something alittle faster and maybe brushless and also how much do they cost thanks.

[Megazone23]

What's your current configuration?

[soccerman8712]

What's your current configuration? it is all stock

[Megazone23]

I replaced the Photon Speed with a Chameleon Pro 2, which is a 19 turn motor, but I haven't had any problems with it at all. The difference between it and the Photon Speed was like night and day. I think it was like $37 from TowerHobbies. Using my GPS, I clocked it at 26.4 mph with a pinion that is stock+1 tooth (I don't remember exactly what that is...I could check if you really want to know). I know others have put in P2K2 motors and have been pleased with them as well. I can highly recommend the Cham 2 Pro.

I would also recommend replacing the stock steering servo with one that has metal gears and higher torque. The Futaba S3305 is such an animal and is a direct replacement for the stocker, i.e. it will use the stock servo horn. It will make your steering so much nicer, and you won't have to worry about stripping its gears. I just cranked out the servo saver as far as the braces would allow, and I haven't had any trouble since.

[evaderstracr]

I'm going to post some pics of my car in a few hours, it's sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:D

[evaderstracr]

how do you insert a picture to be viewed on a post here?

[bsoder]

hit the "Go Advanced" button at the bottom. Below the area where you type your reply, hit the "Manage Attachments" button. If you have a pop-up blocker program running it might prevent the attachments window from opening. The rest should be obvious.

[evaderstracr]

how do you resize the pic so its 700 mb?

[bsoder]

your limit is about 75K for a pic, I think. To resize a pic:

Open MS Paint. (Start->Programs->Accessories->Paint)
Open the file inside Paint. (File->Open...->browse to file and open)
Under the Image menu, choose Stretch/Skew, change the Horizontal/Vertical to a smaller percent. How far you have to go depends on how big the source image is.
Save the file as a new file of type JPG: (File->Save As...->change "Save as type" to JPEG, name the file something like myfile.jpg)

Check the file by right clicking on it and choosing Properties, that will tell you how big it is.

hope that helps.

[evaderstracr]

what do i do after it has been uploaded?

[bsoder]

just enter the message.

[evaderstracr]

here it is........almost

[evaderstracr]

Finally...........

[evaderstracr]

Another......

[evaderstracr]

Again................

[evaderstracr]

Almost done................

[evaderstracr]

There done........

[evaderstracr]

Here are the hop ups I have in evader

Novak xrs speedo
reedy flashpoint 15t motor
Bluebird servo high torque/m. gears (181 ounces of torque!)
Full deans connectors
Futaba t2ph transmiter
team orion super duty plus 3000 nimh batteries (2)
Duratrax intellipeak pulse charger (the $55 one)
Proline dirt hawg tires (rear)
Team losi Rear wheels
30wt. shock oil
yellow shock bushings
yellow bumper
yellow motor guard
yokomo antena tubes/caps (better than stock)
blue alluminum front hinge pin brace
86t spur gear
15-25t pinion gear set
Trinity hard brushes
3 sets of crystals


More than I thought!!!!

[evaderstracr]

How do you guys like it?

[kurrz]

looks good do you race competively with your evader? or just bash also can the evader race and be competitive the closest track to me is at least an hour away just curious if any one races the truck

[evaderstracr]

sure it is a very capable racer. It could keep up with the losi's and ae's easily

[evaderstracr]

I have never raced my evader before but i'm planning on it I just need new rear tires and maybe some ribbed fronts. I just bash around my neighborhood like at the next door baseball field. :D

[evaderstracr]

where is everybody?

[pudder]

sick with the cold :(

[Megazone23]

I must admit...I've been focusing on my E-Maxx lately. Although I did attempt to mount one of the Titan 550 motors onto the Evader, but I would have had to mod either the motor mounting plate or the motor can to make it fit and I didn't want to do either. :(

[bsoder]

here's some info - I switched to the aluminum rear chassis plate to get away from the weak plastic stock piece. However, it still uses plastic arm mounts, which are priced really stupid high - $9.50 per pair. Turns out that you can get a Losi part, LOSA2113, which works as well, just cut the center connecters off and the sides work fine. That part costs $3.50.

LOSA2113 (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA2113)

[evaderstracr]

The rpm t4/b4 front wide bumper fits the evader st and bx just fine but 2 screwz can't go in but it works just fine.
:D

[chvaka]

I just purchased an Evader ST Pro. I will be racing it. What should I upgrade to make it competitive with the Losi/AE that I will be racing. Already I need to replace the idler gear. Will the aluminum gear for the nitro evader fit my electric? How tight should the slipper clutch be? I have already put in a Hitec steering servo with metal gears. All suggestions would be appreciated.

Chris

[Megazone23]

Hey, Chris -- welcome to the boards. The aluminum idler gear for the nitro Evader should fit fine. As for the slipper, according to the video that came with mine, the slipper should be set so that it slips for about 2 feet from a standstill at full throttle. I actually have to use a second nut to lock the set adjustment nut in place, otherwise it tends to tighten itself.

One of the first things people replace is the plastic stock hinge pin brace with an aluminum brace. I actually had to replace the rear transmission brace on my first day out.

I don't race, so others who do will probably have better suggestions for you.

[Novak76]

man this forum is just so exciting :D

[pudder]

Ya!! Wooo, Excitement!!!! :D

[Novak76]

woohoo its alive :D

[pudder]

hmmm... take a look at my website while you're bored! :p

[Mattman]

Lol...I haven't been here since page 14 of this thread. Spring's almost here and I hope to get some good use out of the Evader.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I've been thinking about buying a T4 or evader and putting dirt hawg tires on it just to bash around the yard and on gravel and pavement. Do you guys think a T4 or evader could handle short grass with dirt hawg tires and the right gearing? Or, do you think it just lacks the ground clearance to be a decent play truck around the yard???

[orbitron]

the evader might be a little too slow on longer grass. I got one check out my website http://www.orbitracing.tk
If the grass is short or matted down it works ok.

[Megazone23]

I've got Dirt Hawgs on my Evader, and I haven't had any problems with running it through the grass, even after 2 weeks of growth in the spring. I'm running a 21T pinion with a Chameleon Pro 2 motor. Even with the stock gearing and motor, it was fine.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

How does the quality of an evader compare to a truck like the T4? I've had a T3 so I know I liked associateds quality. Seems like duratrax gives you alot for the money though..... I thought I read on one of the old evader forums before, that the evader had some sort of issues with the tranny gears, can't remember if it was internal gears or spur, and I thought I read it had shock issues too????

[pudder]

If you want extra ground clearance you could get tires like Masher 2000's, or IMEX tire like the All-T or J-Hawg.

Evader had some issues mainly with the idler gears. Aluminum ones are available now and there are modifications to fix it.

Also, think about if you will be likely to sell the truck in the future. Associated's will have a higher resale value than a Duratrax so there is another thing to think about.

[Novak76]

get an evader more bang for the buck. also associated sucks, just my opinion. ive always had losi until they stoped supporting all there older cars so i think losi sucks now too. duratrax is cool and durable for bashing and still fast enuff to race. ive heard alot of ppl complaining about the idler gear but ive never had a problem im still using the same idler gear that came with the truck when i bought it. ive had my truck for over 2 years. i think its more a lack of setting up the tranny right then it is the gear itself.

[pudder]

lol, Associated makes some of the highest quality race vehicles out there... definitely don't suck. (my opinion) You'll be breaking CVD's before stripping any gears in THEIR cars.

Be sure to check out the T4 forum as well as this so you get 'both sides' views.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I've had r/c from almost every electric r/c manufacturer except duratrax so I really can't say. Normally Duratrax doesn't shout out "quality" to me, but I think they have made strides to improve their reputation. I had a couple of Losi's back in the day.., a Jr-T and a XXCR Buggy. The quality was very nice, but I'm a Tower Hobbies man and that kills Losi for me. I've also had some Team Associated r/c's, RC10GT, RC10LSS, RC10T3, and a TC3. I would say the quality is on par with the Losi and parts availability is much better as Tower stocks all the parts.

I guess if I decide to do this I'll get a T4 at this point. I could picture it with dirt hawgs as my rc10GT had those and sat pretty nice, but I think a t4 would look strange with anything bigger than dirt hawgs unless you got a pickup body or something....... any pics?

[orbitron]

Some guy from the netherlands sent me this pic of his evader with masher 2000's on it.
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/pics/yeti02i.jpg

[pudder]

btw those are IMEX J-Hawgs not M2k's.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Actually.... those are tires from the original blackfoot and the bruiser. I only know that because I have about 6 sets of those. Thanks for the pic! :)

[tamiya4x4dryver]

That actually doesn't look as bad as I thought.... would love to see m2k's or j-hawgs on a T4 or evader. With a little rigging you could put one of those Parma lexan blackfoot bodies on there sitting a little higher which I think would look even better. To each his own though.... I like to see what everybody comes up with.

[orbitron]

Here are some more pics of what people have done.
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/pics/hummer.jpg
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/pics/paul01.jpg
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/pics/tahoe.jpg
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/evader/pics/yetidodge02.jpg

[tamiya4x4dryver]

thanks for the pics!

[evader_sp]

Hey, I just bought an evader st, could anyone tell me whats a good motor to replace the stock with to get higher speeds? and what are some good rims and tires for racing?

[pudder]

The Trinity Chameleon 2 is an excellent motor to replace the stock one. It has much more power and speed.

As for tire selection, it would be best if you could tell what type of track you will be running on, and the surface properties.

[evader_sp]

I will be running on a dirt track, but I want somthing that will run good on asphault too. Will Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs do?

[pudder]

Yes, but they probably wont be that great on the track for racing.

[evader_sp]

Hey does anyone know of any shocks that will fit the evader besides the stock ones?

[bsoder]

I will be running on a dirt track, but I want somthing that will run good on asphault too. Will Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs do?

I'm running dirt hawgs on my evader, they are holding up to asphalt pretty well so far. Obviously they're not going to be as good in the dirt as a soft tread spike tire but that tire wouldn't last on asphalt very long either, so it's a fair trade.

[orbitron]

I like the losi smasher. It has great allround performance. http://teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/smasher.htm

[pudder]

I'd go for the smasher too. I like losi's rubber compound too.

[Novak76]

I run proline Step pin, Bow ties, and dirt hawgs depending on what type of surface in running on. Its best to have a couple of different type of tires cause there aint one tire that works good every where. but if ya dont race dirt hawgs r prolly ur best bet.

[Megazone23]

You might want to try to Bowties. I have a set for my E-Maxx, and I've run them on concrete, grass, dirt, carpet, tile, flower bed, freshly raked leaves, and whatever else is available, and they've actually held up quite well. I was expecting these to be slicks within hours, but they've got plenty of life left, and run it pretty hard.

[Racer965]

what is the high speed for a evader st electric.

[jcruzer]

what is the high speed for a evader st electric.
Duratraxx has a review on their site.They say its 20+,24 max depending on battery,tires etc.
I just bought mine.Im putting a Orion Havok 17x2 motor in,will this fry the esc,do i need to change the gears?It looks like everyones using 27T modifieds. Doesnt a lower turn produce more RPMs?.
Also everyones saying the the pinion gear is 20 teeth,Dura says its 18 teeth?.I havent actually counted them, but are the older models 20 tooth?.
Does anyone know what the transmission ratio is?.It says 2.66:1. Team Associateds site has calculators to determine speed based on gears,ratios,rpms and tires.

[pudder]

Remember though, emaxx bowties are bigger than 1/10 bowties. I've run bowties on concrete before and they got chewed up pretty bad. Definitely do not want to run those on a track after.

[mitch001]

So here is a pic my brother took of me jumping my evader last night.

Hi, judging by the pic it looks like your car does not nose down over a jump. i have heard of a few people with evaders where the it noses down on a jump and they have had to put weights on the back to stop this. Have you modified your evader in any way to stop it from doing this? thanks

[guver]

Put the battery all way back and keep it floored...

[dbatcheller09]

Here's my newest Evader body. It's a ProLine Crowd Pleaser for the XXXT.

It's marbled red and blue with AlClad II Chrome.

Think it'd sell on E-bay?


maybe its cool

[chvaka]

Anybody here race their evader's? I have an evader pro and would like to pick your brains about setting it up for racing. Curious on motor, pinion, shock position, slipper adjustment, tires, etc. I currently have a P2K2 motor with an 18 tooth pinion. Basically everything else is stock except the rear tires, I bought some Losi taper pin pink compound tires. Thanks.

[chvaka]

Anybody here race their evader's? I have an evader pro and would like to pick your brains about setting it up for racing. Curious on motor, pinion, shock position, slipper adjustment, tires, etc. I currently have a P2K2 motor with an 18 tooth pinion. Basically everything else is stock except the rear tires, I bought some Losi taper pin pink compound tires. Thanks.

I can't believe nobody here races their evader. How disappointing.

[guver]

Hobby talsk had a forum a year ago with lots of evader racers.

[chvaka]

Hobby talsk had a forum a year ago with lots of evader racers.

Do you know the url? Is it Hobby Task?

[guver]

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=2152&highlight=evader

[guver]

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=36539&highlight=evader

[guver]

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=17034&highlight=evader

I hope I am allowed to post thoese. they are quite old.

[Novak76]

Ive raced my evader in the past. all the settings change from track to track depending on the type of dirt and the layout of the track, I ran a P2K2 pro with a 21 tooth pinion and 3000 NiMh, and i still had power left after the races
i coulda went up a tooth or 2 with my pinion for more speed but i was already pulling away from the T3's and XXXT's on the track. i havent really race in about a year though. I goto a new track and nobody really races there so I just get more wheel time.

[chvaka]

Ive raced my evader in the past. all the settings change from track to track depending on the type of dirt and the layout of the track, I ran a P2K2 pro with a 21 tooth pinion and 3000 NiMh, and i still had power left after the races
i coulda went up a tooth or 2 with my pinion for more speed but i was already pulling away from the T3's and XXXT's on the track. i havent really race in about a year though. I goto a new track and nobody really races there so I just get more wheel time.

With the stock spur? I currently have an 18 tooth pinion with my p2k2 pro and the engine gets quite hot. I can hold my finger on it for about 5 seconds before I have to take it off. Was debating going to a 19 tooth. But scared to go any higher.

[Novak76]

ya that was with the stock spur gear, i currently run a 15 turn motor with a 19 tooth pinion and stock spur. ive never had heat problems. you might have something binding up or a bearing going out thats the causing the motor to heat up.

[vetmxer]

broke my rear trans brace today. will the graphite part from the pro hold up better or should i just get the alum one?

[orbitron]

graphite is stiffer so it will most likely break easier than the plastic but I don't know... for sure

would a loose diff prevent the car from moving entirely?
I ripped apart the transmission cause I thought the idler was done but it wasn't and the diff was really loose. Sound acceptable?

[vetmxer]

if it was loose enough yeah your car might not move

[pudder]

sounds about right to me

[Novak76]

a loose diff can prevent the car from moving entirely.
i had the same problem with my XX back in the day.

[orbitron]

OK so i put the thing all back together and when i accelerate, there is a horrible crunching sound coming from the gearbox. I just looked at all the gears and they seemed alright, coud this mean the diff is toast? and if so what do I do to fix it?

[kar120c]

I have a new Evader ST Pro and the car seems good but I have a problem:

The manual says that for the differential break in, you must run the car for 2 or 3 batteries, until I should hear the differential slip.
Now I ran the car at least for 4 batteries and the differential is not slipping yet. I have fear to go on using the car.
What I should do? Adjust the differential now or keep running car until it slips?

So I am a novice I have another doubt. My car now is running with a Photon Speed motore with a 15T pinion and a 88T spur. If I use a powerfull motor (15t for example) should I change this ratio?
Where I can found on the web a summary with the correct ratio between motors, pinions and spurs?

Thank you for any help

[vetmxer]

you should be able to adjust your diff and slipper clutch now with no problems. :confused: i thought the evader pro came with a 15turn motor

[kar120c]

you should be able to adjust your diff and slipper clutch now with no problems. :confused: i thought the evader pro came with a 15turn motor

My Evader was prebuilt but not RTR, no motor, no radio no ESC.
Yesterday Duratrax replied my question saying that until the diff doesn't slip I should not thighten it.

What you say is the same thing others peoples in others forum said to me

[vetmxer]

i ran about 3 or 4 packs through mine then adjusted it. then i put a 12turn motor in and i havent had a problem yet. just keep it a little tighter than usual at first. mine took awhile to fully break in

[kar120c]

i ran about 3 or 4 packs through mine then adjusted it. then i put a 12turn motor in and i havent had a problem yet. just keep it a little tighter than usual at first. mine took awhile to fully break in

Thank you, now I strenght it.
Have you noticed that se stock 19t pinion does not mesh very well with spur?

I also noticed thau my spur is worn evenly

[kar120c]

Owner of an Evader St Pro, I want to change pinion and spur with Pro ones because it is well known that stock pinion and spur doesn't mesh well.

I read many posts and I realaized that Robinson Racing make good pinions and spurs.
For now I am running with a Photon Speed motor, but soon I'll upgrade to a powerful motore (19t ot 15t).

Now I wish help to chose the correct spur and pinion before ordering.
I think my car needs 48 pitch gears with appropriate number of theets and spurs for stealth transmissions are compatible.

I have choosed these ones. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000712410&I=LXMF96&P=K Robinson Racing SuperLite Pinion Purple 48P 19T

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000712410&I=LXEY11&P=K Robinson Racing Absolute Spur Gear 85T B2/T2

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000712410&I=LXEX58&P=K Robinson Racing Aluminum Pro Pinion Gear 48P 23T

Anyone may suggest is this choice is correct, and what is the best radio between pinion and spur for a general use?

Thank you in advance

[mitch001]

Hi guys im new to the forum, i have a tamiya twin detonator monster truck and was wondering how this would compare to the evader st pro as far as racing goes and durability etc any help would be much appreciated.
thanks

[guver]

Hmm, Hi and welcome. There is very much different between the two. The evader will blow the td away for racing, it is almost twice as fast.

On durability the TD will be slight better, maybe alot better. Both in stok form.

[mitch001]

Hi, do you any of you guys have the evader pro? if so what do you think of it and does it run ok on 1500 mah battery packs

[rcgamer]

I have a EP Evader ST and was just given a xxx-nt proline body and the back shock tower hits in the body but if i just cut out alittle spot in front of the number plate looking thing i tlooks liek it will fit. I was wounderin if you guys think it would work and if it would still look pretty good?

[EvaderSTKid]

I like the look of shock towers sprouting from the body. Gives it a more realistic look, imo. Like a full size trophy truch, or baja truck.

[wingspan]

g day guys can you tell me what parts exactly i need to get and what i have to do to bullet proof my diff in my evader pro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i am running a novak brushless and am pretty ruff with the old girl and consequently chew diffs bad :D i will get the ally idler from tower and the ally main diff gear from HG components (or is there somewhere else that does them) but what else do i need to finish the diff internals :confused:
i also have constant problems with the diff coming loose i thread lock it and everything but it persists on coming loose after only 1-2 packs also if the diff is done up to tight and is basically locked!! is this normal as this really screws handling characteristics and pushes it in corners bad
any help would be appreciated thanks!!!! :D

[wingspan]

oh and i forgot to ask all you knowledgable peoples i chewed out the bushing in the slipper clutch aswell is it possible to replace this with a good bearing or will it not work then

[guver]

Theres no reason to have a bearing there. The bushing just needs to be narrower so it is touching the plates in stead of the bushing, that's probably why the cluth slips, but is very tite.

[rcgamer]

some pics of the xxx-nt on my evader

[Megazone23]

Wingspan, if you look back in the 30s or early 40s of this forum, you'll see some postings by me and/or The Modfather describing exactly what you need to do to bulletproof the tranny.

[wingspan]

ok read through the entire thread "again" i looked about 4 months ago and found out some interesting stuff but new probs have occured so now new things i have to learn

has anyone that has "bullet proofed" thier tranny had any probs with it since doin it???

[rcgamer]

I have had my bullet proofed tranny for a few months and have done a few races with it. I just opend the tranny case and rebuilt the diff for the new seson and checked all the gears. They all look good as new cleaned and relube and is running as smooth as always.

[wingspan]

rc gamer what have you done with the locking nut setup on the diff adjustment is it the standard setup or did you use the losi thrust washers? what sort of motor are you running, i have ordered all the bits for the tranny but im still not sure on the losi thrust washers

[rcgamer]

The only thing differnt in the tranny are the gears the N-evader idler and the HGI gear and stock top shaft. The diff i just used a stock Evader Diff rebuild kit and used it you need to use some spacers on one side and you have to compress the spring a bit to get the screw to catch the locknut. Just the evader thrust washer and stuff and play with it till it fits and runs smooth took me 2 rebuilds but runnin smooth as silk now. PS. let me know what you think of the body on it its^^a few post up. Thanks

[rcgamer]

OPPS but my motor its a speed gem extrme 13turn. I was running a 10turn D6 the other day since my friend left his car at my house so since I do all the wrench on all the cars in my neighborhood i decided to throw it in my Evader and take it for a joy ride. OMG that thing was insanely fast but i still want a brushless but to many decsions.

[wingspan]

rc gamer___ the body looks killer i like the shocks protruding through!!! it looks good
yeah i have all the parts for the tranny on there way from tower now so i should see them in a couple of weeks here is a pic of my beast with a aussie muscle car body its just after i put it on! so there are a few changes to it since then, i have rasied the body slightly and put bowties on it and changed to some lower profile body mounts as those ones got torn off in a bad landing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/stonie/stonies%20bike/evadergtresized.jpg

[rcgamer]

Body looks good and good luck with the tranny. If it dosent work at first just mess around with it and it should go togther pretty easyly, and what diff gear are you using?

[bsoder]

using the stock spur gear and a P2K2 motor, what's a good pinion gear size to start with?