Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[Novak76]

i would stick with the stock pinion. i run from 15-21 tooth pinions depending on what im doing. i was using the p2k2 pro but lately ive been using a 15 turn motor. it mostly matters on the type of track and what size ur tires are. idealy for dirt hawgs a 17 or 18 tooth pinion is best and for step pins 18 or 19 is best.

[bsoder]

good point. I'm running dirt hawgs. I've been running a 21T but mabye I need to drop down a few teeth.

[mitch001]

Hi guys, i was wondering if the evaders esc can handle a 17t motor? cheers

[guver]

Yes, and no. I have used them with great results, but have heard of others overheasting. I think it depends on the quality of the battery and motors.

[guver]

Factory says 20 turn limit.

[mitch001]

Factory says 20 turn limit.

Damn, I was hoping t put a 17t in mine. Is the stock engine in the evader fast enough though or have you upgraded engine and esc?
Cheers

[guver]

I like leaving things alone (except batteries) it is nice on 8 cells. I would try the 17 turn motor too. If you use 6 cells and not too high gearing you may get away eith it.

[rcgamer]

I'm running a on road oval track and am looking for a good spur/pinion setup more towards speed. I am running a 13t speedgem and pro-line road rage tires. Need to beable to get the most speed I can with still keeping everything mostly cool if possible.

[Novak76]

take the circumference of ur tires and subtract that from ur Final gear ratio to get ur motor drive ratio

idealy ur motor drive ratio should be 0
if its above 0 then ur going to get more top speed
and if its below 0 then ur going to get more torque and acceleration

spur gear/pinion = external gear ratio

external gear ratio*internal gear ratio = final gear ratio

evader st inernal gear ratio is 2.66:1

[justinspankey]

ok right now im deciding on buying a evader st or a traxxas stampede and i would like to know whats better on a evader then on a stampede

[orbitron]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1561736&postcount=925

all that I said there applies to the stampede as well. Basically the rustler and the stampede are the same truck with different suspension parts.

[Jackyl]

I'm wondering about the evader stadium truck pro or non pro vs AE T3/T4 or Losi XXX-T. I had a AE T3 Ft a couple years past and it was a solid truck never broke anything for 2 years and I jumped it on concrete, gravel. off loading docks and dirt hills. But now I'm a more experienced driver because I've raced 2 season of 1/8 buggy and unlimited monster trucks. But I'm going to get rid of my 1/8 buggy to get an electric stadium and just want your guys opinion on what I should look to get.

The duratrax is sooo darn less expensive compared to the others and I'm sure that you can use some of the parts from the others on the duratrax stadium truck.

Thanks.

[pudder]

ok right now im deciding on buying a evader st or a traxxas stampede and i would like to know whats better on a evader then on a stampede

If you are planning on racing... go with the Evader forsure since a stampede is basically just a play vehicle and really isnt that great on the track at all.

I have owned both trucks and I had a good time with my Evader, but for just bashing I would take my stampede over evader any day. With a few upgrades your stampede will be able to take a ton of abuse that would probably cripple an evader.

my 2 cents

[Jackyl]

How is either version of the evader ST compared to a T4 FT or T3 FT or Losi XXX-T or MF edition.

I use to own a FT T3 and it was a great truck. I just picked up a used Evader ST "non pro" and found out that it is the same truck as a losi XX-T now all of these trucks are old. But which one is the better truck with a capable driver behind it? Is the evader heavier than the other trucks?

Also does the pro evader weight less than the ST because of all the graphite?

[elecracr]

The pro handles better because it is lighter and stiffer. Graphite will also break easier as it does not give as much as plastic.

[Novak76]

Graphite being lighter than plastic isn’t true, at least not with the evader; I have the old evader and bought graphite a-arms and shock towers. I weighed both the plastic and the graphite and the graphite was the same weight and some parts were 0.1 ounces heavier. the only advantage to graphite is that it don’t flex which makes handling better, if ur not going to race get the plastic evader it will hold up to bashing better but if ur going to race the stiffness of graphite make a big difference

[rcgamer]

Its a sad sad day today. Me an a frined were out jumping and bashing in the alley and i started hearing a funny noise and couldnt figuer what it was. I tore down the tranny and found my metal tranny shreded metal flake fest alu. idlers teeth were bent and missing parts of some and badly wrecked. Now i dont know what to do. so sad

[pudder]

Were you using the duratrax gears or custom/aftermarket ones?

Sorry to hear that.

[Jackyl]

Anyone interested in a BX or ST I have the BX as a RTR and the ST as a roller. PM me if your interested.

[rcgamer]

The idler is the Duratrax gear for the nitro Evader and top shaft is stock and the diff gear is HG. The gdiff gear has alittle play side to side i never noticed before is there any way i could fix this or any recommendations. I tore the diff down and everything looked fine so i dont know what to do. any help?

[rcgamer]

??Wheelie Poppon?? has any got their Evader to pop wheelies if so what motor and gears are you using or what would you recomend?

[^j!nx^]

would the evader ST pro be good for a weekend basher, and maybe one or two race days a month? I run tourning cars, and MT's. I want something cheap yet good, and it seems the Pro(with no electronics) is the best bang for the buck. I would probably swap out the front graphite arms for normal plastic ones. Any suggestions would greatly help!

Thanks!

[orbitron]

I think the pro is overkill for bashing and occasional racing. Just go with the plain prebuilt. Unless you really feel you need the faster motor and ESC. The basic Evader still has a lot of great stuff in it.

[pudder]

I agree, go for the plain evader for just that little use, unless you really want to spend the extra money.

[^j!nx^]

I already have extra electronics not being used. Plus I can get the pro for 110$. :)

[orbitron]

Can't you only buy the Evader (pro or otherwise) in RTR or pre-built (which includes ESC and motor)?

[Jackyl]

you can buy a used T4 or xxx-t for that much.

[^j!nx^]

Can't you only buy the Evader (pro or otherwise) in RTR or pre-built (which includes ESC and motor)?


tower sells the evader pro as a pre built roller. No motor or ESC

[orbitron]

ok you're right. I just checked http://www.duratrax.com and it says

SPECIFICATIONS
Stock Numbers:
DTXD27** (RTR)
DTXC0027 (Prebuilt)
Length: 16.125 in (410mm)
Width: 12.875 in (325mm)
Height w/body: 6.625 in (168mm)
Weight: 3.3 lb (1500g)
Wheelbase: .18 11.625 in (286mm)
Ground Clearance: 1.375 in (35mm)
Prebuilt Requires: 2-channel radio w/1 servo, motor, ESC
Both Versions Require: battery, charger

[mitch001]

Hi Guys,
I recently purchased an evader and so far am very impressed although I don't particularly like the slipper clutch, I'd rather the car take off full noise the whole time.
I am thinking of dropping a team orion 17t engine into it to give it some more go and was wondering if any of you guys have tried a 17t engine in your evader.
Will I need to get a new esc or is the stock one ok?
Cheers

[^j!nx^]

I have a few questions. I got my evader ST. I will be putting a novak SS5800 brushless in it. Ok so now my questions(i am sure they have been covered in the thread but 52 pages is alot of reading). What should be upgraded in the drivetran to help keep it running with the power of the BL. Also what would you guys recommend for gearing?

Thanks!

[pudder]

I would reccomend alu. idler and diff gear.

[TeamMishap]

I would reccomend alu. idler and diff gear.

Is there an aluminum diff gear out for the Evader ST now. I saw one for the Nitro, but Tower's write up says it won't fit the electric.

[elev8]

tower sells the evader pro as a pre built roller. No motor or ESC
Hi! i'm new, just cruising through checking out the evader stuff. i have an evader st pre built that i bought from tower. i bought a futaba radio elsewhere. it came out of the box with a 20 turn photon speed motor and a duratrax esc. Both are sufficient to get a driver going on an entry-level truck.

[elev8]

??Wheelie Poppon?? has any got their Evader to pop wheelies if so what motor and gears are you using or what would you recomend?


i totally got mine to wheelie the other day! i'm running a futaba mc330cr speed control and a reedy flash 15 turn double wound motor, with a 20 tooth pinion on the motor and an 88 tooth (stock) spur gear. i actually noticed it would pop wheelies on asphalt after i tightened up the slipper clutch earlier in the day. i'm also running dirt hawg tires on the back. it pops up so high it hits the motor guard every time!!!!

[mitch001]

Hi guys,
I went and brought myself a set of traxxas nitro rustler chrome wheels for my evader the other day but found they would not fit because they have the hexagonal fitting at the back and the evader has the pin which sits in the wheels. I was wondering if anyone has come across this problem before and if a hexagonal cover is available so my wheels will fit?
Thanks

[guver]

Yes the hex adapter are from traxxas or rpm or maybe even tamiya, they are pretty standard sized, with maybe some different hole sizes and depths.

I use lots of hex wheels on mine

[orbitron]

I think I bought some traxxas wheels for my truck long ago and found that the nut went too deep into the rim to tighten up. I put some washers on the outside of the rim so that the nut would sit farther out. (the rims came with hex adapters)

Aren't the hex adapters the same as the ones used in sedans?

[guver]

Yes, they are the same size hex. The differences I have found are in the thickness and hole size.

[pudder]

Just put the wheel nuts on with the nylon facing in. Works for me.

[EvaderSTKid]

I got soe Rustler RPM wheels for my Evader and they came with "Losi adapters" I belive they were called.

[orbitron]

I guess that any wheels that fit the losi xx or xxx-t will fit just lovely!

[kurrz]

Hey guys been running my evader again lately and today I got it side ways and rammed the front tires into something and smoked the servo. What's a decent inexpensive servo that will last? Thanks

[microrcdude]

Hitec 625MG. about $40, and its AWESOME. metal gears, real perfect for trucks.

[pudder]

I highly reccomend this servo as well. I have 2 and they have taken a **** kicking!

[guver]

I use ts 70 mg or cs 70 mg

[orbitron]

I have the 625mg as well. It is good and cheap! Also you may want to take apart your servo saver and cut one coil off of the spring. The stock servo saver is too tight. It is a lot of work to cut it off but you'll never wreck a servo again.

[kurrz]

Thanks

[EvaderSTKid]

Okay I think I'm going to go brushless. Currently I have 2 1500 mAh NiCds, and a 1200 mAh Parma matched NiCd thats a few years old. What do I need to do to my tranny and drivetrain fpr the brushless? Will those batteries work or should I upgrade to 2400-3300 mAh NiMhs? What brushless system would you recommend for a basher/play racer on a budget? Thanks.

[pudder]

I would highly reccomend buying some better batteries. At least 3000+ for best results.

I have run a Novak 5800SS for a little over a year and I think its a great starter system. It has good performance and runtime and I've had few problems with it.

If I had the choice though, deppending on the cost, I would try to get the new Novak competition brushless systems that are coming out.

[EvaderSTKid]

Has your tranny been holding up?

[mitch001]

Okay I think I'm going to go brushless. Currently I have 2 1500 mAh NiCds, and a 1200 mAh Parma matched NiCd thats a few years old. What do I need to do to my tranny and drivetrain fpr the brushless? Will those batteries work or should I upgrade to 2400-3300 mAh NiMhs? What brushless system would you recommend for a basher/play racer on a budget? Thanks.

I would recommend a 3000mah nimH battery, you don't have to run them out as they don't have a memory. That is a great bonus and I get 20mins of hard run time out of them as well on a stock evader.

[1stxrunner]

I have an Evader st I am wanting to get rid of and was wondering if anyone could tell me what would be a fair asking price....... It is in really good physical shape, it has full bearings all through out. (not sure if that is stock or not?) Also has two sets of wheels and tires. (one set is factory the other has Claw Dawg on rear & Road Howgs on front) As for running condition I am selling it rtr BUT not sure whats wrong with it. At times it will run other times it wont???? It has the stock radio, receiver, & Sprint ESC. The motor is a 27t Revenge Of The Monster.

Thanks for any help I may receive, Eric

[Jackyl]

You could ask 65+shipping. I sold my roller without tires and rims for 30bucks shipped and had a hard time doing that. The evaders aren't worth anythong on the used bin. almost better off fixing it and keeping it.

Good luck.

[1stxrunner]

So then 75+shipping might be to much

[EvaderSTKid]

I'd say $75 shipped would be a good deal.

[Jackyl]

That might even be to much, I've seen Factory T4's go for 85shipped for a roller. I had a evader ST and it was a burdon to sell. same with the BX that I had. They aren't worth anything. And selling them is very hard to do. But good luck with it man. otherwise there is always ebay. hit a broader market.

[1stxrunner]

Well I think I am going to ask 50+shipping and go from there. I also figured out the problem I was having with it. (the batts. where junk)

[darren9975]

i raced my evader last weekend, i have not done anything to it, other than change the motor to a hell fire 27t stock. I run 1500 batteries. Everyone was faster than me,(i mean everyone) mainly on the straights. A guy told me i need to get an 3300 battery. Will that make my truck as fast as the others?
I would appreciate any help.

[pudder]

It will make it slightly faster, but the main differences will be runtime and performance.

Remember, it is not just batteries that make you fast but also your battery charger, speed control, motor (and condition of it) and many more things.

[orbitron]

was everyone else running a stock (27T) motor? If not that is the biggest reason.

[hpistratus]

I am new to the off road scene and I took my evader out for the very first time and after two laps the thing stopped moving found out the my rear axel(I think that its actually called a dogbone) lost a pin or something that held it together at the joint. Is there a quick fix for that or is it junk.

Thanks

Chad

[orbitron]

you gotta get a new pin. I think they are called drift pins?? YOu can get them from your LHS and The one I replaced it with was from an Associated truck. Take your axle in to the LHS and they should be able to find you something.

After you get it fixed, put some heat shrink tubing over the joint and it will not happen again.

[hpistratus]

Unfortunatly i Dont have a LHS that deals with R/C. They are all plastic models. Was wondering if there is a quick fix for that. If I was to put that tubing on it if it would hold it until the new pins or axels come in?

Chad

[pudder]

Heat shrink tubing? That would not hold it. You really need to order the part. Which pin was it that broke? The one at the joint or the one at the wheel?

[hpistratus]

Heat shrink tubing? That would not hold it. You really need to order the part. Which pin was it that broke? The one at the joint or the one at the wheel?

the one at the joint..and what i did was cut a nail to size and then put the heat tubing on it then..it has done 15 laps around a bmx bike track and have had no problems

Chad

[pudder]

Cool! I thought you were just going to put tubing itself and no nail. Glad you got a temporary fix though!

[Chewbacca]

Tower has the "naked" Evader Pros on sale. $105 for the ST, $129 for the BX. Just rollers with CLEAR bodies.

Chewie.

[microrcdude]

i was gonna pick one up for my bro but our Local track shut down.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

heya dudes! where do you all get ur supplies for ur evaders on the internet? I get stuff flown to England by towerhobbies. Is that a good sight to use?

[hpistratus]

I have used tower hobbies for a year or so. I like it and have had no problem. I buy my micro stuff from my LHS but when it comes to the 10th scale I have to order from Tower Hobbies. My LHS wont deal with that but they have better prices than my LHS on the micro stuff.

Chad

[pudder]

Tower has always been reliable and easy to deal with for me.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

thanks dudes. I had my evader for a year now and i keep using tower for buying those universal dogbones. Can you get anodized dogbone shafts from anywhere? I got a double 15 motor and its always breaking them. I also want to get another shell but not the standard type. Where can i get it from, i had to cut holes in my other body cos its made for a t maxx!

[alabamarcguy]

what about the rear arms wil they interchange?with xxt-evader pieces

[pudder]

I think it is possible to use Losi universals on your evader, as well as XX-T suspension arms, but I am not too sure if they are direct fits.

You can get clear or painted Evader bodies at Tower Hobbies

[Chewbacca]

I know one thing for sure. The XX rear Arms are longer than the BX ars. Thare a direct fit, but are longer. Idunno if Losi's drive shafts fit, I'm gonna have to try that out. Losi does habe quite a big "ball" end on their dogbones.

Somebody posted here or in BX thread, that the XX and the BX are the same from the rear shock tower forward.

Chewie.

[microrcdude]

couldnt you just drill out the inner portion so the ball could fit?

[Jeff Shriver]

I believe the XX-T CR rear arms are a direct replacement for the Evader's rear arms. The XX-T arms are too long.

[Quinton]

How is this truck? I'm looking to buy a used stadium and was thinking about this one? What do you all think?
quinton4@cox.net

[mitch001]

How is this truck? I'm looking to buy a used stadium and was thinking about this one? What do you all think?
quinton4@cox.net

I like it, it handles anything you dish out at it and already comes with all the upgrades you are going to need like ball diff, esc, bearings, oil filled shocks.
Its a reasonably quick car. I have owned a few offroad cars but I like my evader the most. I would recommend you get one, any other questions just ask, Mitch

[sobe164]

I just traded one of my friends for an ebavader, n i love the truck already, i treaded him a nitro sport se made by traxxas. it was a good strong truck, but got tired of it nickel and dimming me all the time. so i figer what the heck you know, i have already owned 3 eletrics before, but i love them. easy matence, n easy clean up when u run in soft dirt. but how do u guys feel about the grafite parts? i have been thinkin on getting sum n wanna know what u guys think of it, please let me know. thank you guys much

sobe

[kurrz]

Hey guys Im looking for opinions. I just put a p2k2 pro in my evader along with a 23t pinion, with a 3000mah pack my motor got to 275 degree's. Is that ok? Thanks PS It now rips!

[eVaDeR85]

Ouch 275 thats high. My 17T SG Pro motor doesnt even get that hot, maybe 140. Try going down about 2 teeth on the pinion and see where you stand after that. If you can accurately measure motor temp I would shoot for right about 140-160 after a full run. I dont like heat so I like to keep things cool. Im running a 18T pinion with my 17x2 Mod motor with the stock 88T spur. Gives me great acceleration and blistering top speed and about 10-15 minutes runtime on a 1900 pack.

[sobe164]

Yea im thinking that is a lil hot. try putting a 25 maybe 26 tooth pinion on the motor n run with a maybe a 87 or 90 tooth spur gear, if u try that out, it should run nice n cool. n u shouldnt have a problem with heat. i use too have that problem, but then i got a novak explore 2 esc from one of my friends, n put my 17 t motor on it, n it is running really really nice, but yea, just try chaning the pinion n see what happens, n lemme know

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Type of motor also makes a huge difference, i got a speed gem and no matter how long i run it for, i cant get it hot enough to hurt when touched. 275 is way too high, you gonna end up needing a new motor like that.

[eVaDeR85]

275 is gonna weaken the magnets tremendously not to mention possibly melting or warping the plastic tranny box. Remember, our motor plates conduct alot of heat and alot of that goes right into the motor plate screws which also hold the tranny halves together.

[sobe164]

alright yall, i am hooked on my evader now. i bought sum grafite parts off ebay, n lemme tell you, they look awsome. i love it lol. i couldnt be more happy about my trade. i have it about half way put back 2 gether, so ya know i will have it running soon. i will get sum pics n post them. ight talk to yall later, im out sobe

[microrcdude]

Yeah, post some pics man!!

[DaDevil]

Here's my little ST all stock except for the obvious! :cool:
http://home.san.rr.com/ke6mtx/rc1.JPG

[sobe164]

Has ne one cut down the antena on their evader? mine is really long, i have it tucked under the body but it sticks way out from under it. im just currious if ne one has n if it changed the preformence too their evader. lemme know,

N dedevil thats a pretty tight body, i wanna get a croude pleaser n paint it red with black trim. n sum thin pin strips. alright yall, im out once agin. ill be around much bloody luv lol sobe

[DaDevil]

Has ne one cut down the antena on their evader? mine is really long, i have it tucked under the body but it sticks way out from under it. im just currious if ne one has n if it changed the preformence too their evader. lemme know

Don't cut the antenna. The antenna has a certain length to the frequency the receiver works on. Cutting the antenna would shorten the distance the receiver can "get" the transmitters signal. And possibly overheating the receiver leading to a failure.

[eVaDeR85]

DaDevil is right about one thing. Cutting your antenna would greatly reduce your radio's reception. As for overheating your reciever, I dont see how thats possible. All that will happen is the reciever will lost signal. It doesnt work any harder with or without a signal so overheating wont be an issue.

[microrcdude]

ive been in RC for many years and never have i heard or red anything about a reciever "Overheating". Cutting the antenna is ok, but dont cut alot of it off. like 3 to 4 inches is fine

[pudder]

Nice Bronco body!

[sobe164]

i havent made it all the way threw this form yet, but has ne one tryed putting the rpm wide front bumper on there evader? i seen one sum where n it looked alright, but i like the wide front by rpm, wouldnt it take sum customizing for it 2 fit?

[microrcdude]

The one for the XX/XXT works great.

[toobiloo]

Hello,I just bought a Evader EP ST w/ ESC from tower hobbies for my little brother. The thing works pretty well except that the throttle control is a little unresponsive. Sometimes it seems to work fine, sometimes it doesn't work at all, or it seems to take a few seconds to engage in forward or reverse. Where to I start to try to fix it? I'm mystified by the electronic throttle. Any help would be great. Tobias

[GT Freak]

devil, i would have at least lined up the wheels on that bronco body, make it look better. :o

[sobe164]

The one for the XX/XXT works great.

To day i was acculy really bored, so i drilled out a couple of holes, and made it too about the right point where they needed too be, then i had a couple of spair screws from my wifes stampede, n i used sum of the lil bit longer of screws, n put them in the front 2 holes of the bulkhead/ lil bumper on the truck. but it works really good, n looks awasome. after i put it on there it didnt really harm nothing, cuz the og holes are still there n fine, so its multie perpous now. lol.. n i also for got while i was bored i also put the traxxas stampede rear shocks on my evader n it fit. it looks awsome, they are the same size pretty much. but so close u wouldnt be able 2 tell a diff in them. but then agin u have 2 have sum kind of spacers for them too fit right.

ight im out sobe

[sobe164]

hey DaDevil another thing that would look killer on it, is get a rpm wide front bumper that is spose too fit ne traxxas truck. but if u do it right it will fit and will look KILLER. just forgot too add that in my last post, sorry yall im out for da night for good now.

peace

sobe

[akajester]

Hey guys, I just bought an evader st pro off ebay. My first run out I noticed the truck starting to sway from the rear wheels. I checked and found the rear suspension mount cracked across the screw hole. I think it was already cracked as it had glue droppings on it. Nothing like getting a 1 minute run out of your "new" car before it breaks. argh!

Anyways, I see the replacement parts are about $10. Can I get aluminum ones? Is this a common problem?

Thanks guys, this forum has been an invaluable resource.

dale

[microrcdude]

I dont know what you mean by "rear suspension mount" got pics?

[akajester]

I dont know what you mean by "rear suspension mount" got pics?

duratrax part #DTXC9584
towers linky: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWN7&P=7

does that help?

dale

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

you can easily get aluminium rear suspension mount (i guess you mean rear shock tower) at tower hobbies but it would be better to get graphite, it is unlikely it will break again as there isint that much pressure on it, it should be fine, keep it as light as posible. No receiver trouble either.

[sobe164]

or you can look on ebay n see if u can find any parts, i got almost a full grafite car now. n it only costed me 26.50 with shipping. so check it out, u will love it after u get it.

[akajester]

I got the pro version and it looks like almost everything is graphite already. Sweet! Thanks for the tip though.

After some reading I found that using the inner screw holes on the mounts set the toe-in at 0 degrees on the rear wheels, which is fine for now as I'm just street bashing. So, the part is still broken I'm just using the other set of holes, but it seems to be running fine.

I have to check the tranny and differential tonight as they feel kinda gritty when I turn the rear wheels. I also need to check and clean the motor too.
Someone mentioned a "bulletproof" tranny guide. Where is that? I searched all over this forum and nothing. Any links?

my dynamite vision peak 2 charger I bought this weekend from a LHS is flashing Leds on me and stops charging. Now I need to return that. Oh well, I'm having fun with the truck at least. :)

Thanks everyone!

[wingspan]

AKAJESTER!!! the bullet proof tranny guide is around page 39 by memory (but i could be wrong)

[wingspan]

sorry make that page 41

[akajester]

sorry make that page 41

Thanks for the help wingspan!

my 3300 packs arrived in the mail today! woohoo!

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

has anyone got dat duratrax 3600? Ive ordered two of them, i dont expect them to be as good as most but they're cheap so easily replaced. Any comments on them?

[mspecht1973]

Getting back into the hobby and introducing my 5yo boy to it as well. After doing alot of research, I have narrowed my choice to the EVST. The 55 pages contained alot of info and helped persuade me into getting the EVST. This seems like a great entry level vehicle for me. I'm going entry level because the cost and alot has changed since 1985, my first "real rc car" was an old fx-10 lol. My son will be starting out with the old kyosho raider, laugh if you want, but he is 5 after all and I picked it up for 10 bucks. I haven't ordered the EVST yet but I am looking forward to it. My LHS is about 25 miles away and the owner is only there Thur. through Sun. I guess it's a part-time LHS. My first question is about batteries and run time. I know a 3300mah batt. will have longer run time but would it make a difference if it were NiCd or NiMh? I told my wife that I wouldn't be upgrading a whole lot so i'll be running the stock motor and esc for awhile (of course I'm going to upgrade LOL). If I go with NiMh, which seems like a better choice, Do I need a charger for that type of batt. or will my old charger work? Once again I'm getting back into the hobby and any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

[akajester]

Getting back into the hobby and introducing my 5yo boy to it as well. After doing alot of research, I have narrowed my choice to the EVST. The 55 pages contained alot of info and helped persuade me into getting the EVST. This seems like a great entry level vehicle for me. I'm going entry level because the cost and alot has changed since 1985, my first "real rc car" was an old fx-10 lol. My son will be starting out with the old kyosho raider, laugh if you want, but he is 5 after all and I picked it up for 10 bucks. I haven't ordered the EVST yet but I am looking forward to it. My LHS is about 25 miles away and the owner is only there Thur. through Sun. I guess it's a part-time LHS. My first question is about batteries and run time. I know a 3300mah batt. will have longer run time but would it make a difference if it were NiCd or NiMh? I told my wife that I wouldn't be upgrading a whole lot so i'll be running the stock motor and esc for awhile (of course I'm going to upgrade LOL). If I go with NiMh, which seems like a better choice, Do I need a charger for that type of batt. or will my old charger work? Once again I'm getting back into the hobby and any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

I am pretty new to the electric rc thing and in no way would I consider myself an expert. From what I've gleaned from this forum in the last few weeks;
NiMh is the way to go right now and yes the charger needs to support NiMh. Typically the charger will do both NiMh and Nicd if it supports NiMh. I just bought two "powerizer" 3300 battery sticks on ebay for $32 shipped. They run great and I get runtimes over 15 minutes and that's with a trinity 12T motor in the grass.
After reading through the bulk of the forum here I'm glad I sprung for the evader Pro versus the standard. It seems that the standard evader owners have to replace alot of the plastic with graphite due to breakages. My truck has held up really well so far and I think it's due to the graphite. Definately a big time saver there and it's cheaper than buying the individual parts really.

With some help from the forum I may upgrade the gears in my tranny and possible some differential work. Other than that I'm just going to enjoy the heck out of this truck.

cheers!

[akajester]

Can anyone recommend an rc truck for a 5 year old? I'm looking for something that's not too fast but can do off-road stuff. I was hoping I could use the same packs and/or charger I use with my evader.

I saw that towerhobbies has the Tamiya buggies for $90 rtr but they say they don't accept hop-up parts.

I even looked at the $30 hummers at walmart but the reviews say they barely go over landscaping chips!

Any ideas?

Thanks guys.

[guver]

I would say the stampede by traxxas. For a 5 year old start with a old tired 4-5 cell battery and the 5 yr old will quickly develop the skills to move up to the 6 cell batt with zero mods to the truck. Doing it this way make the truck kinda lazy like and slow. Very good for small people.

Most may suggest gearing down, but that will slow the truck down however will also make it very snappy and powerful, bad deal for a bigginner.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

tamiya mad bull, sounds stupid but it has ok speed for a five year old plus it can go off road. Cheap but you cant really mod it. I see loads of little kids with them.

[pudder]

I second the Stampede. They are great trucks to start off with and unlike most of those beginner Tamiya kits, the Stampede can be upgraded with a slew of aftermarket parts!

[kurrz]

Hey guys I think I cooked my p2k2 , I took it out for one last run with the 23t and it stopped working right after a jump oddly enough. When I pull the trigger it just makes a little noise but no movement. Any ways what motor and gearing should I use. I want it to be fast and have good takeoff. The p2k2 was kind of slow because it needed time to wind up. PS I am using the stock esc for now. Thanks

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

when not on stock esc, get the speed gems double 15 or if you want a tiny bit more, the triple 13

[kurrz]

What gearing with those motors? THanks

[SocialMisfit]

I'm getting my car back running again and now that I got myself a debit card i'm going to order a few upgrade parts...I already have a P2k2 and i'm putting another Streak ESC in it (Got it for $15...Just wanted to get it running again after somehow ripping the wires straight off the old Streak's PCB.) I changed the rear tires to Proline Dirt Paws. I want to redo the gearing. Faster top end and better battery life would be nice. What other upgrades are good for a stock Evader? Sway bars? Shock mods?

[sobe164]

I'm getting my car back running again and now that I got myself a debit card i'm going to order a few upgrade parts...I already have a P2k2 and i'm putting another Streak ESC in it (Got it for $15...Just wanted to get it running again after somehow ripping the wires straight off the old Streak's PCB.) I changed the rear tires to Proline Dirt Paws. I want to redo the gearing. Faster top end and better battery life would be nice. What other upgrades are good for a stock Evader? Sway bars? Shock mods?


Onestly the first upgrade u may really really wanna do, is get a diff esc, i have the stock one my self, n i changed it in a hart beat, i am useing a novak explore 2. with a speed gem 17t double wound motor. the thing rips, i just gotta get diff spurs too figer out the right gearing for it. n if u dont have grafite parts, get sum, as i said earlyer in this forum i got sum good deals off of ebay for the parts. n i also put stock stampede shocks on the rear. they are the same size. mine were leaking oil so i figerd what the heck. n decided too see if they would fit. just play around with things, n see where it gets you is the best idea you can ever have. thats what i do, n i amaze my self sum times, but most the time its what the people on here give advice about. :D i love you guys :D lol ight im out for a bit yall, much love sobe

[Driving_For_Fun]

ok im wanting to get a duratrax evader st, i dont know what the diference is between the normal one and the pro can anyone explain that to me???

[kurrz]

With the pro you get graphite parts a better esc and radio and a 15 turn motor a havoc or somrthing like that. Did I get it all guys? Its a pretty good deal I think.

[Driving_For_Fun]

ok thanks. do the parts being made of graphite make it more durable???

[pudder]

No, graphite is more likely to break in a crash than composite plastic due to its stiffness, which will cause it to snap where plastic will flex. It is mainly used in racing to lighten the car and make it more rigid.

[Driving_For_Fun]

ok... i think maybe i should go with the base because im more concerned with durability than speed

[Driving_For_Fun]

and is the envader the best electric off road truck in that price range?

[akajester]

and is the envader the best electric off road truck in that price range?

In my research for an electric truck I narrowed it down to the evader st and the traxxas rustler. According to everyone on this board the evader is more durable. Also duratrax puts out tons of plastic, aluminum and graphite parts to hop up the evader. I checked out my local hobby store and they carry duratrax parts so it made sense for me to go with the evader for some local support. I think duratrax is the only place that warranties the parts for one year, which can come in handy. I heard their support is excellent.

I like the knowledgebase here and I'm happy with my purchase. You can pretty much find help on any mod you'd like to do here.

dale

[sobe164]

Thought traxxas is a great company, my first truck was a nitro sport se made by traxxas. i loved that truck, then i got my wife a traxxas stampede. then found out one of my friends was going to sale the his stampede that he had. i was like ill buy it. the i started tinkin around with that truck, n lemme tell u the stampedes can take abuse. i jump my wifes truck on a about a 2.5 ft jump n get about 12 ft in distance n about 5-6 ft of air. n i havent had ne thing really break on it yet. i havent tryed doin ne big jumps with the evader yet. but its comming really soon. but i traded my nitro for the evader i have now. n i have already slaped almost all grafite parts on it. n whats even better it was for a low low price. but there isnt a truck or car out there witch isnt better in sum way sum how. every companey has diff standerds. but for the most part they are all out too make a good running car for the folks who wanna race or the peeps who just like 2 bash. so rather if ur a racer or a basher chose the truck or car u like the looks of the most. every one out there is going too tell u diff things about diff cars, it all ranges. i have been on miney bords n have figerd that out, every one dosnet think alike.

[pudder]

I can tell from experience my stampede is one of the toughest trucks I have owned next to my AE vehicles

Like someone else mentioned though, if your hobby shop stocks parts for one vehicle more than the other it is a good thing if you get that truck

[guver]

Has anyone else have this trouble? My diff keeps loosening very quickly. I have about 6 evaders and none other ones do this and some have the diff installed backwards so the adjustment is on the left, but maybe is just a worn out lock nut?

thanks for the tip, las time I tightened it I took off and within 1 minute it had loosened up again, it is the bolts loosening not the diff itself getting worn.

[pudder]

Try replacing the diff bolt and nut.

[akajester]

Hey guys, my differential is toast. When I spin the wheels it sounds like a rock tumbler. I took it apart and nothing looks bad so I bought the diff rebuild kit from duratrax, hopefully that'll fix it. I found the tranny info on page 41 of this thread and they refer to an HGI alloy diff gear. I went to my LHS and couldn't find anything like that, it appears HGI doesn't sell it anymore? Couldn't find it through Tower either. So, I did some searching and made a list of diff gears that might fit. Can anyone confirm if these will fit or not? Thanks!

1. Robinson Racing aluminum diff gear for the RC10GT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6003415020&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

2. HGI alloy diff gear for the B2 and RC10
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6003018197&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Will either of these fit my evader ST pro?

Thanks!

[akajester]

Hey guys, my differential is toast. When I spin the wheels it sounds like a rock tumbler. I took it apart and nothing looks bad so I bought the diff rebuild kit from duratrax, hopefully that'll fix it. I found the tranny info on page 41 of this thread and they refer to an HGI alloy diff gear. I went to my LHS and couldn't find anything like that, it appears HGI doesn't sell it anymore? Couldn't find it through Tower either. So, I did some searching and made a list of diff gears that might fit. Can anyone confirm if these will fit or not? Thanks!

1. Robinson Racing aluminum diff gear for the RC10GT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6003415020&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

2. HGI alloy diff gear for the B2 and RC10
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6003018197&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Will either of these fit my evader ST pro?

Thanks!

ok, to answer my own post I later found the robinson gear for the rc10gt on towers website and the measurements shows it's larger than the stock evader diff gear. So, my guess is the HGI is the only one that'll fit.

Has anyone actually tried the HGI gear? My friend has an RC10 and it looks almost identical to the evader. Of course his diff is smooth as a baby's bottom which made me even more mad. :)

thanks,

dale

[guver]

Has anyone else have this trouble? My diff keeps loosening very quickly. I have about 6 evaders and none other ones do this and some have the diff installed backwards so the adjustment is on the left, but maybe is just a worn out lock nut?

thanks for the tip, las time I tightened it I took off and within 1 minute it had loosened up again, it is the bolts loosening not the diff itself getting worn.
I answer my own post too, it was a broken thrust washer under the bolt head. When turning , the ball would catch the washer and thread out the bolt loosening up the diff. I replaced the thrust washer and when I titened it I heard it crack, another broken one, I will fix later on with new washers and balls. Pretty simple eh?

[akajester]

last night I rebuilt my differential according to the exploded parts diagram that came with it and the duratrax diff rebuild kit. I had two extra parts when I was done! Apparently my truck had an additional washer in it and the bolt was different so it had some beveled adapter which was made obsolete by the new flat bolt. Wow, the differential feels so much better! I'm guessing they must've made improvements and included those in the rebuild kit. I lubed it with associated stealth black grease and can't wait to take it out tonight for a spin.

can you tell I'm excited?

[pudder]

yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhaaaaaaaaaaaww!

[Vundergah]

Is the duratrax Evader ST Pro RTR good out of the box for bashing around? I like it because it also comes with a great radio.

[pudder]

Yes, the Evader is good for bashing around. The only thing with the graphite parts is they have less give in a crash and might break easier.

[akajester]

Ok, now that I took care of my diff, it sounds like the slipper is slipping. I've tightened it up but it still makes an awful *screech* when my evader starts moving. I tightened the slipper gear nut but it's still doing it. It looks to me like the slipper spring is fully compressed.

Any suggestions?

thanks!

[akajester]

I had some recommendations for a stampede for my 5 year old. Over the weekend he was begging to drive my evader, so I went into the setup of my futaba magnum and dropped the throttle max down to 20. It was fast enough for him and he enjoyed it alot. Now I'm thinking rather than buying him a stampede and hacking the battery to a 4-cell can I just trim the throttle down? Will the standard stampede radio allow this or should I just say hell with it and buy my son an evader with the magnum radio instead? I suppose I could get him a stampede and a magnum radio as another option.

He was paging through the tower catalog and says he likes the bigger wheels of the stampede. He says he wants to drive over other cars! how cute is that! mwuahaha (my attempt at an evil laugh).

later,

[pudder]

WIth the stampede radio you can't adjust EPA so you cant turn the throttle down.

Maybe you should buy a TLT and get started on a rock crawler project (hint hint) :D

[jaco_wallflower]

Q:
I have an evader st that i've modified to a point that it doesn't look like an evader. bigger tires, shocks, bigger body. I was wondering what gearing to use if my tires are about 5.5"tall and 3" wide? I'll be running a 13 x 2 motor on it as well. I just don't want to burn up my tranny due to strain. It's my first time handling a stadium truck so i really wouldn't know what to do. thanks.

[pudder]

Wow, that is some big tires. What kind are they?
Any pics of the truck?

I would try going like 11/90 for something like that!

[jaco_wallflower]

Wow, that is some big tires. What kind are they?
Any pics of the truck?

I would try going like 11/90 for something like that!


thanks for replyin. i thought that this thread was dead and was just hopin someone would reply.

as for the tires, i got them from IMEXRC. they're the all-t 2.2 tires. they should fit any 2.2 truck rims no prob they sell for about $20 a pair. I'm also waiting on my lst shocks with piggybacks, since quad shock setup cannot be done on the evader. i'll try to post pics of the truck once i figure out how to post em. is it safe to run 14x2 motor on that gearing?

[pudder]

ALL-T's... Those tires are damn heavy compared to stock tires. I have a set for my TLT and I tried them on my stampede and it really made a difference since they are a lot of rotating mass.

I would try a low gearing like I suggested and you might be fine.The only bad thing with small pinions like that is the mesh is no where near as good as a bigger pinion, but you could try it with your mod. Otherwise you might have to go to something like a 19 turn maybe?

If you want to see some pics of my TLT check out my website!

[sobe164]

Hey u guys i have a quick question, i just orderd a havok 15t motor for my evader, what do u guys think of that motor? dose it last for a lil bit? please lemme know, i figerd if it works good then ill be happy, but i only paid like 12.50 for the motor, so just checking in with you guys, please give me feed back. im out this peace

[jaco_wallflower]

ALL-T's... Those tires are damn heavy compared to stock tires. I have a set for my TLT and I tried them on my stampede and it really made a difference since they are a lot of rotating mass.

I would try a low gearing like I suggested and you might be fine.The only bad thing with small pinions like that is the mesh is no where near as good as a bigger pinion, but you could try it with your mod. Otherwise you might have to go to something like a 19 turn maybe?

If you want to see some pics of my TLT check out my website!


Sweet Ride man. Yeah, the tires are significantly heavier than the stocks. But I've been running Mashers (origiinals) since the first day I got my Evader. So im only adding a little amoun of weight. My main concern is the gear stress. I tried your solution and I'm just waiting on my motor to arrive today. I can send you pix if you want. My website is downa dn i can't figure out the photo hosting on this thread. This build is mostly built for speed over rough terrain. I might consider turning my ride into a dragster sometime in the future if i can find suitable tires that don't look too lanky.

[pudder]

sure send some pics mikes_st@hotmail.com

[Vundergah]

So everyone agress that the Evader ST Pro is good for bashing? Or is the BX Pro better?

[pudder]

The stadium truck would be better for bashing than the Bx since it has higher ground clearance, wider stance and larger tires.

[I Trust Tyler]

has anyone tried different cv's on the evader, ebay has some sweet b4 titanium cv's for cheap, they look damn close to the evaders. i want to see if they match up.

[Darth Evader]

Back in '02 I bought an Evader ST to bash around in my backyard with my dog. The dog loves to chase it all over the place. The problem is that as the dog has grown, it has become too fast for the Evader. I have upgraded the motor to a Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro Motor and 3000 mAh batteries but the dog is still too fast for it. (HINT: Dog catches it by the tires and drags it around)

Originally I was thinking about going nitro, but I don't want the dog to get burnt on a hot muffler. I need to make the jump from the stock ESC and Trinity Chameleon 2 to something significantly faster...both acceleration and top end. I have read through this thread and I found the parts to build a bullet proof tranny, but I really haven't seen an overwhelming answer for faster motors than the Chameleon. So, I need some advice on what to get:

Current Setup
-Stock gears, 88 spur 20 Pinion
-Road Hawg 2 rear tires
-Chameleon 2 Pro motor (only a six battery runs on it)
-3000 mAh batts
-All else is stock, including ESC

Driving Conditions:
-Mowed Grass
-Flat Ground
-Some pavement

Requirements
-Need quick acceleration
-Need faster top-end

Questions
-Why not go for the gold and go brushless with new ESC?
If not,
-What is my best ESC upgrade choice?
-What would the ideal brush motor upgrade be? 12t? 15t?

Any recommendations greatly appreciated.

[I Trust Tyler]

starluck r/c has feigao 380c bl motors, i have heard good reviews about them. and you can run them with li-pos, assuming you buy a esc capable of handling it.

www.starluckrc.com

[Darth Evader]

Wow, I didn't realize that brushless ESC's cost so much....NEXT!

Ok, how much difference would I see between a 15t brush motor and my 19t Chameleon?

[I Trust Tyler]

Wow, I didn't realize that brushless ESC's cost so much....NEXT!

Ok, how much difference would I see between a 15t brush motor and my 19t Chameleon?

they're gonna have different ones so im told, ones that aren't so pricey

[I Trust Tyler]

I've had a novak 5800 in my evader and it topped out at like 30-35 but with a 7cell i really flew significantly much more power and top end with 50-75 foot wheelies. but i still wanted more. 380c is undoubtly the way to go i gotta order mine soon.

[Darth Evader]

Ok. With a strong motor like that, the tranny is going to have to be bullet proofed. I read some posts way back on page 35 that gave a part list to do so:
HGI Alloy Differential Gear B2
Associated Differential Drive Rings 2.40:1 B2
DuraTrax Idler Gear Alum Evader Series

Tower Hobbies no longer carries the HGI Allow Differential Gear. Does anyone know of another that will work instead?

I'll also need the bearings, what size 5x10 mm?

[I Trust Tyler]

Ok. With a strong motor like that, the tranny is going to have to be bullet proofed. I read some posts way back on page 35 that gave a part list to do so:
HGI Alloy Differential Gear B2
Associated Differential Drive Rings 2.40:1 B2
DuraTrax Idler Gear Alum Evader Series

Tower Hobbies no longer carries the HGI Allow Differential Gear. Does anyone know of another that will work instead?

I'll also need the bearings, what size 5x10 mm?

check ebay "Photosolutionz" carries that hammad ghuman part, i forgot the part number though

[pudder]

I'd imagine that part is getting obsolete since the T4 and B4 came out.. too bad

[I Trust Tyler]

http://cgi.ebay.com/HGI-ALLOY-DIFF-GEAR-ASSOCIATED-RC10-B2-T3-HAMMAD-GHUMAN_W0QQitemZ6006967028QQcategoryZ44028QQssPage NameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

thats the one i bought and they put new ones up all the time

[Darth Evader]

What mods need to be done to this HGI diff gear to get it to fit correctly? Does a bigger center hole need to be drilled in it? What size bearings did you use?

[sobe164]

Whats up every one? just got too work, but before i came to work i was out bashing. n i was Wondering whats the biggest jump any one has taken there evader off of? i know mine is about 2ft high with a ramp thats about 2.5 maybe 3 ft long. n i get sum pretty good air, stays nice n straght in the air. lands really smooth. minus the once in awhile bottom out stage it takes, but i was just wondering. n another one i got that i asked awhile ago, who in here is running a havok 15t in there truck? lemme know, ill check later, im out

[I Trust Tyler]

Whats up every one? just got too work, but before i came to work i was out bashing. n i was Wondering whats the biggest jump any one has taken there evader off of? i know mine is about 2ft high with a ramp thats about 2.5 maybe 3 ft long. n i get sum pretty good air, stays nice n straght in the air. lands really smooth. minus the once in awhile bottom out stage it takes, but i was just wondering. n another one i got that i asked awhile ago, who in here is running a havok 15t in there truck? lemme know, ill check later, im out

sobe, i jumped my evader off a 1 foot jump with a novak 5800 in it and got about 25 feet distance and 3-4 feet high, i was also using a landing too, oh the sweet sound off not hearing my chassis bottom out.

[microrcdude]

tyler, how dod you make it so it wouldnt bottom out? raising ride height?

[I Trust Tyler]

i raised it a bit, but i made a lip and a moveable landing so it wouldn't land straight to flat when i jumped it.

[Combatcm]

How long do you guys think duratrax will continue to support the evaders.

I see that the pro versions are now about $100.

[pudder]

I would imagine a while after they are replaced, like they did with their Maximum series of trucks. Who knows how long it will be until the Evaders are replaced, and then I guess it would also deppend on parts demand.

[Darth Evader]

I performed a little experiment. I wanted to see what would happen if I simply changed the ESC from the stock to a 12t Intellispeed. WOW...with my Chameleon 2 there was a very noticible power improvement over the stock ESC. I always thought that either an ESC would work or it wouldn't work, but this change proved otherwise.

After that, I threw a 12t Reedy Flash motor in to see what would happen. Holy cow, the Evader absolutely hauls now. I didn' run it more than a couple seconds because I want to break the motor in first

[elecracr]

I hope you changed the gearing with that new hot motor!

[kurrz]

Hey guys looking for gearing suggestions, I'm going to put a 15x2 motor in my evader. Any help is appreciated. I don't want to burn up another motor. Thanks

[guver]

If using 6 cells then use around a 15 tooth.

[kurrz]

Thanks guver what kind of speed/torque should I expect?

[I Trust Tyler]

anybody know of any foam tires for the evader, keep in mind that losi wheels will fit the evader too. thanks

[pudder]

TRC makes 1/10 truck foams that come mounted on special rims.

[droopylee]

What is the best upgrade to the Transmission and gearing for the Duratrax ST? I am running a 12t Double wind Speed Gems motor with a 12t esc. I am buying a new Novak Brushess SS5800 motor with the Novac esc as well and am wondering about gearing and slippage adjustment. It seems right now that no matter how tight I make the clutch it still slips, since I am new to RC can anyone tell me if that is the idler gear doing that?
This think is super fast with my GP3700 pack in it, but it will not stop fast or pull a wheelie or anything, just seems like it slips then finally will take off. Can anyone let me know how to build a bullet proof transmission.

Thanks, Lee

[guver]

It is not the idler gear causing the clutch to slip. If the adjustment spring is bottomed out, then something in the plates/bushing,shaft is being squeezed rather than the clutch plates being squeezed. Worn out clutch parts will do this and a tight clutch will break stuff b-4 slipping.

An idler gear will cause a snapping sound if the gears are stripping.

[droopylee]

Thanks for the info. I took the tranny apart and looked arouond and didn't see anything bound up, I tightened up the nut on the clutch to see if it helps and it still slips. Could the clutch friction ring be worn down to much and not grapping the pressure plate?
There is no winding at all from the idler gear, I am just wondering if it is the motor that is powerful for the tranny? I am wondering if anyone rebuilt their tranny and made them bullet proof with different gears and plates?

Lee

[droopylee]

Does anyone have a schematic of the transmission that I can look at? I bought my ST used and it came modified but no matter how much I tighten the slipper cluch it still slips and seems to take a second before it takes off as if something else is slipping.

Thanks, Lee

[droopylee]

Does anyone have a schematic of the transmission that I can look at? I bought my ST used and it came modified but no matter how much I tighten the slipper cluch it still slips and seems to take a second before it takes off as if something else is slipping.

Thanks, Lee


How tight is the differential suppose to be on the Evader ST Electric? Well let me make sure since I am new that the this is the differential. it is where the to parts come together that hold the left and right side axle? Is it suppose to be tight enough where it can't spin opposite ways are is it suppose to be able to but with some friction?

Thanks, Lee

[I Trust Tyler]

you want the diff tight enough so that it doesnt slip under driving conditions, but you dont want it locked either, it takes a bit of tuning.

[rqueen2229]

Hey folks. I am thinking of buying the DuraTrax Evader Pro EP ST w/ESC RTR from tower. This looks like a great package. I am buying this to race on Saturdays at a local indoor track. I am kind of stuck between this and the Losi XXX-T. Do the Evaders hold up? Do any of the Losi XXX-T parts interchange? Is the evader pretty user friendly?

[droopylee]

Hey folks. I am thinking of buying the DuraTrax Evader Pro EP ST w/ESC RTR from tower. This looks like a great package. I am buying this to race on Saturdays at a local indoor track. I am kind of stuck between this and the Losi XXX-T. Do the Evaders hold up? Do any of the Losi XXX-T parts interchange? Is the evader pretty user friendly?

I am new to RC's but from what I have experienced so far the Evader is worth every penny and more. I have raced my buddies with Losi's and Team Associated and was getting beat on the start but would catch and pass them by the first turn, now that I have the differential dialed in I blow everything away and have kept up with a nitro, but of course after about 10 minutes it got away from me, battery went weak. I have a 12Turn double wind Speed Gems with a Duratrax 12T ESC and use a GP3700 battery, this thing screams and handles great. I am going to modify the tranny to make bullet proof, but even spending that money I have saved more than 100.00 then those who bouoght the Losi, even though that a truck made for racing, you will do fine with the Duratrax Evader ST Pro.

Lee

[I Trust Tyler]

Heres the killer set-up that i just bought and tested, feigao 380c 13t, bk 9920, twin gp 3300 (12cells total) and my sweet evader with bulletproof tranny. So after about a week of having it, i just got to the testing tonight and heres my findings, geared 23/80 and with 12cells (instead of alot lighter li-po) my evader hauled some serious ass, mad low end torque even with what i thought would be high gearing but nah it easily accelerated to 45mph(estimated, and run em' alot at night too) in less than 3-5 seconds(motor barely warm after my 10 minute run). i cant wait to test the top speed on this maniacal set-up. so if you evader fans/non-fans were skeptical about the tranny, forget it i beat the piss outta it and not one thing has gone wrong in it.

[philp37]

Heres the killer set-up that i just bought and tested, feigao 380c 13t, bk 9920, twin gp 3300 (12cells total) and my sweet evader with bulletproof tranny...

Wow!! sounds like a fast setup for straight ahead driving.
Would love to see some pictures of the battery mounting system you developed to hold your 12 cells to the evader chasis.

[philp37]

Hi everyone. I used to regularly visit and contribute to a couple of these evader forums on RC zone up until a year and a half ago. Just getting back at enjoying my evader ST trucks after putting them down for the last six months. I have three early evaders, two with upgraded ESC's down to 16 & 12 turn, 12, 15, 17, 20, & 27 turn motors, numerous other upgrades from duratrax and other manufacturers including the cult favourite JEP RC whose parts are now colectors items for the serious evader enthusiast.

I have enjoyed my evaders alot, but have recently moved to an area where off road racing is alomost exclusively nitro 1/8 buggies and Monstor trucks. I live in alberta Canada and find that tracks in Calgary and Edmonton have little electric interest. Medicine Hat AB and Yorkton SK on the other hand seems to have some good electric stadium truck following. I live in Morinville, and hope to generate interest in ST Albert for a track that is more electric friendly maybe by providing stock classes that RTR stadium truck or buggy buyers could start racing right away. I think that it represents a significant opportunity for hobby shops to encourage this type of track to give more people an opportunity to enter the sport at a lower cost.

[I Trust Tyler]

Wow!! sounds like a fast setup for straight ahead driving.
Would love to see some pictures of the battery mounting system you developed to hold your 12 cells to the evader chasis.
dont have pictures but i mounted them on their side and parallel in the stock position and use velcro strap to hold them in place, only thing i noticed is that it understeers a bit more now, but other than that its mint.

[I Trust Tyler]

Hi everyone. I used to regularly visit and contribute to a couple of these evader forums on RC zone up until a year and a half ago. Just getting back at enjoying my evader ST trucks after putting them down for the last six months. I have three early evaders, two with upgraded ESC's down to 16 & 12 turn, 12, 15, 17, 20, & 27 turn motors, numerous other upgrades from duratrax and other manufacturers including the cult favourite JEP RC whose parts are now colectors items for the serious evader enthusiast.

I have enjoyed my evaders alot, but have recently moved to an area where off road racing is alomost exclusively nitro 1/8 buggies and Monstor trucks. I live in alberta Canada and find that tracks in Calgary and Edmonton have little electric interest. Medicine Hat AB and Yorkton SK on the other hand seems to have some good electric stadium truck following. I live in Morinville, and hope to generate interest in ST Albert for a track that is more electric friendly maybe by providing stock classes that RTR stadium truck or buggy buyers could start racing right away. I think that it represents a significant opportunity for hobby shops to encourage this type of track to give more people an opportunity to enter the sport at a lower cost.

what parts did Jep-RC make? and if you have pictures im really curious to see. Thanks

[philp37]

what parts did Jep-RC make? and if you have pictures im really curious to see. Thanks

His web site still exists. The best part that he made was the front brace set. It is the only fix that addressed the real problem; supporting the back side of the hinge pin.
I have never broken a bulk head since installing these on two of my evaders a couple of years ago. Had broke 8 bulk heads before then. My other evadder has the much more expensive aluminum bulk head. I feel that the best fix (it was Jep's advice in fact) is the combination of the front brace set plus the RPM front bumper for the losi xxt. The RPM bumper has slightly more material and much more flex than the shorter stock duratrax bumpers.

[philp37]

I almost forgot. Here is his website.

http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

[philp37]

so if you evader fans/non-fans were skeptical about the tranny, forget it i beat the piss outta it and not one thing has gone wrong in it.

I concur. I have never had any idler gear problems or even worn out a set of diff balls on my evaders. However, I pay special attention to diff and slipper tightness. It is especially important on older evaders that do not have the new style lightened slipper and blue slipper pads that allows more accurate setting.

The other thing that I have done that might have added to my luck with evader trany is that I have taken a couple apart just to clean them after they got a gritty feeling in the bearings. The grit was dirt of course, not filings from tans components. Sealed bearings in the trans might be a good idea.

[ErikB]

What mods need to be done to this HGI diff gear to get it to fit correctly? Does a bigger center hole need to be drilled in it? What size bearings did you use?

Wassup guys :)
I just bought an HGI diff gear too and ran into this setback as well.
I looked up the bearing size for the B2 diff gear, they are 5/32" x 5/16"
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2881&P=7

The evader diff bearings are metric, 5mm x 9mm. That makes the center bearing diameter 0.197" (5mm), the outside needs to be 0.3125" or 7.94mm (8mm)

So, either a 5mm x 8mm bearing would work, with .06mm worth of material removal, or a 13/64" x 5/16" would work too. Non flanged of course. I can't find a manufacturer for the inch size bearing needed. Making the metric ones fit is the only option I guess. One guy had mentioned using a dremel to make them fit. .06mm is small (0.0024"), should be easy enough to do. Hell, it may sqeeze in without modification depending on machining tolerances in the gear itself.

5x8 bearings:
http://www.rcbearings.com/single_m_rcbearings.htm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD109&P=7

Just thought I would share. ;)

*edit*- looks like you will only need one.

[triumph2010]

hey, guys few questions. first what screw is used to mount the electric motor. Also, whats a good pinion gear for a 27 turn motor.

[guver]

stock pinion is good for a 27 turn motor depending upon the track or speed desired. The screws are std motor screws 3mm x 8mm

[Boostin_69]

Hey i found this forum and i think its great i have an evader and im starting 2 hop it up with tires,motor and some aluminium here and there but i was wondering who else makes hop up parts 4 the evader other than Duratrax.

Any help greatly appretiated :D :p :)

[Boostin_69]

Any1 gonna give me an answer
???????????????/

[bakabaka]

Hi Boostin_69!

I had found that Losi XX-T and to some extent XXX-T parts fit the Evader ST pretty well. Tires, wheels, much of the chassis and even the XXX-T suspension arms were useable (I did in fact use XXX-T arms on mine to improve geometry.) Check with the retailer or manufacturer about compatibility before purchasing something too expensive, your LHS is your friend.

Have fun! :)

[Boostin_69]

ok kool i knew duratrax bought the design of the xxt but i thought they changed it a bit

ill check out some of the losi graphite parts thanks 4 the advice :):):)

[bakabaka]

Hi Boostin_69!

They did change a few things, but most of the changes seemed to be made to make the parts less expensive to mold. Since I had and still have an XX-T, it was pretty easy to see they were nearly identical. Here's a picture of the Evader ST before I sold it, it had XXX-T suspension arms, Team Associated dampers and wheels by Losi, HPI (the studded tires, mounted with adapters) and Duratrax IIRC.

Have fun! :)

[Boostin_69]

hey id just like 2 tell evry1 that ive fabricated my own front bumper out of STRONG metal i think its aluminium but not a 100% sure

im lookin at making other items 4 the Evader cos' ive got lots of scrap metal laying around and i want 2 BASH it HARD

[Rtsbasic]

Alloy bumper = not good, puts a lot of pressure on your bulkhead..personally I'd recommend a B4 RPM wide front bumper..I fit one onto my Evader with only very minor dremeling.

Out of the metal sheet you have, you could make shock towers? Battery strap? Or even some sort of chassis brace if you wanted to do something a bit custom.

[Boostin_69]

actulay ive had NO problems watsoever with it I tested it by chucking the car up in the air abiout 10+ ft. and landing ONLY on the bumper and it held up fine.

UPDATE- no damage has been done 2 the bulk head or bumper after attemping double backflips and landing most of the time on the bumper. BTW i landed 2 double back flips off a huge jump with a killer lip.

I was thinking of fabricating a custom wheelie bar and motor guard but the 180 degree bend on the guard will be hard 2 accomplish.
I will be trying 2 figure out something 2moro night:)

Thanks 4 ur suggestions b3racer ;)

[Boostin_69]

im thinkin of making a chassis but im not sure if graphite would be better BTW im a basher not racer.

[elecracr]

You can attempt to make a chassis, but unless you have specialized tools it will be very hard, take a look up near the steering, if you can do it thats great, but i think its almost more work than its worth.
Also, it depends on what alloy you use for your front bumper for whether or not it will flex that much, i had an alloy bumper on for months and it was fine, just be careful not to hit anyone in the shins. It also adds weight to the front which may not matter to some so..

[pudder]

You could consider buying old RC10 buggy steering. It's super simple and can be mounted on a piece of graphite or aluminum easily.

[Boostin_69]

yeh that steering part really has me stuffed but ill try and do some thing like the rc10 steering part

[pudder]

The only thing about the rc10 steering is it is meant for the servo to be mounted the other way so the servo horn is to the left side of the vehicle, but there may be a way around that if that wouldnt work.

[philp37]

Hey i found this forum and i think its great i have an evader and im starting 2 hop it up with tires,motor and some aluminium here and there but i was wondering who else makes hop up parts 4 the evader other than Duratrax.

Any help greatly appretiated :D :p :)

Golden Horizons makes a number of aluminum parts for the evader that have nicer machining than the duratrax equivilants. The most important of my many hop ups is the RPM front bumper (for xxt) , Jep RC front brace, and lower turn motor with ESC to handle it. Also, upgrading the stock steering servo is very important.

[elecracr]

Just make sure you upgrade the power and everything first, because the alluminum will make a difference in the weight, if i were you i would get a faster setup and replace the parts will aluminum as you break them.

[ErikB]

Snapped some pics of my evader with a new body (crowd pleaser xxxt) and paint job. Just thought I would share :) More pics here: http://ebaudio.com/EvaderPics


http://ebaudio.com/EvaderPics/0007sm.jpg

[pudder]

Nice looking truck. Very clean!

[philp37]

Beautiful Evader.... I am drooling! I noticed the blue/clear cover for the pinion/slipper. Where did you get that from? Also, are those RPM rod ends? A list of your hop ups would be cool.

[ErikB]

Thanks Guys :)

The slipper cover is stock, I just painted it from the inside like you do the body. I masked off a thin 1/8" wide strip window so I can peek through it to see if the slipper/gears are turning when it needs adjustment.

On a side note, I bullet proofed the tranny. Man is this thing smooth now, and no fear of stripping any gears again. I totally recommend doing that. The HG diff gear I got for 99 cents on ebay :)

[Boostin_69]

hey wat tires r u runin' up front.
looks like a cool design

[ErikB]

Losi razor/pin (#A-7509)

[Boostin_69]

thnks i might get a pair as my current front tires r 1YEAR old !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 lol :)

[philp37]

Eric. I would pay 80 usd for that body

[RCnick]

hey guys, Im new to forums. I have a evader st and i was wondering if the traxxas nitro rustler 5-spoke rims will fit on my evader. right now i have hpi deep mt rims on it and its almost time to get some new ones. the chrome on the edge is coming off. thanks!

[ErikB]

Nick, I think that the only rims that fit are Losi & Proline wheels to fit the XTT/XXXT/XXX-NT, and the duratrax wheels. Associated and Traxxas have different diameter holes, and some have different methods to lock to the axle.

Phillip, :) Sorry man, but I am gonna keep it. Besides, it has some paint flaws and its harder than hell to paint stuff right now with this cold ass weather.

[pudder]

Associated's wheels will work fine. As long as you have a drill you can make them fit. I also believe they are wider offset than losi rims. :)

[RCnick]

oh well thanks for the help

[RCnick]

is there anyone else out there running a team orion revolution motor in their evader?

[ErikB]

other than me??? I have the peak version, 14 double. Seems to do pretty well with power and run time on 3300 cells. I have only run a couple of packs through it, so I can't comment on brush/comm life yet, but its supposed to be good. The Orion SV2 motors have the same magnets and V brush setup, but not the fancy endbell, they are only $35 and seem to be a good value too.

[elecracr]

I also am running a 13X2 in my bx. I liked that setup alot.

[RCnick]

i have a 12x2 jukka steenari edition in my truck and it runs pretty good. i also have a 8t duratrax intellipseed. for a battery i have a towehobbies 1900mah 7-cell. my run time isnt very good at all but its still fast. im not sure how fast it goes but im guessing about 30+. i got 20t pinion and 88t spur and it does awesome wheelies.

[ErikB]

does your motor get pretty hot with that size spur/pinion?

[RCnick]

not really it doesnt run long enough to get that hot i guess.

[philp37]

Does anybody know if RPM has a gear cover that fits the Evader? I found these on towers site:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=rpm+gear+cover&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

Does the Losi as so many parts do, or the associated with the similar stealth type transmision fit?

[ErikB]

the one for the stealth might. Its under $6, give it a shot :)

[philp37]

I think I remember that Hankster, the guy who wrote the original review on the Evader for RC car action and had a bunch of green parts put on his evader might have had one. I cant find his original posts on this forum or his review. Speaking of reviews. I found a cool one on the Evader ST Pro.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=564

The writer refers to changing the front toe in to a toe out configuration to improve straight ahead handling and line holding. Anybody else experiment with this?

[kurrz]

Hey guys quick question will the stock gearing work with a 13 turn motor or should I change it? Also how hot should an electric motor get? Thanks

[ErikB]

The motor should never get so hot that you can't keep you finger on it for a second or two (over 170deg F). Stock gearing with offroad tires might be a bit too much. Pinions are cheap though, buy some in the mid teens and experiment.

[kurrz]

Thanks anyone know what kind of top end and low end I can expect with a 13 turn? I'm probably getting a speed gems motor.

[philp37]

Any one know if MF2 arms fit evader?
I know that MF1 or XXXT arms do, as to the xxt cr arms.
I think that the same answer for the question: do mf2 arms fit on the xxxt? will also suffice.

[sobe164]

I was wondering if any one has taken a esc from a emaxx and put it in the evader? i wanna only run 1 motor n 12 cells. would this make my motors get too hot? im just currious cuz if something might go rong then i think i might wanna put it in my stampede. please give me info. if i should try it or not. i can post as i figer out if it would or not if ne one is wondering or wants too do it but want feed back from the process.

im out this peace

Sobe

[guver]

One motor designed for 12 cells is ok (550 size), yet the extra weight of the cells makes it handle very poorly. Lots of the 550's have a larger nose and the motor plate will need enlarged.

[I Trust Tyler]

I was wondering if any one has taken a esc from a emaxx and put it in the evader? i wanna only run 1 motor n 12 cells. would this make my motors get too hot? im just currious cuz if something might go rong then i think i might wanna put it in my stampede. please give me info. if i should try it or not. i can post as i figer out if it would or not if ne one is wondering or wants too do it but want feed back from the process.

im out this peace

Sobe

i've done it not to long ago actually, and it worked fine i just had to modify the motor mount and run twin 6 cell packs on there side inside the battery tray with some strong velcro. The only problem was the weight of the set-up it wouldn't be good for hitting jumps, that extra weight will destroy your evader easier. Its only good for high speed, but even then a good 6-7cell high rpm per volt brushless set-up would be faster still.

[GT Freak]

"I think I remember that Hankster, the guy who wrote the original review on the Evader for RC car action and had a bunch of parts put on his evader might have had one."

hes still around....http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/forumdisplay.php?f=7

[Boostin_69]

hey i was wondering if any1 else has broken their chassis?
would it be better to get graphite or just the stock chassis?
BTW im a hard basher so i need something strong

[eVaDeR85]

Actually if your a basher the stock chassis would be better. Graphite is stiff and brittle whereas the stock is plastic and will bend and flex with hard landings and crashes. Graphite is stiff which is better for racing due to less chassis flex and less tweak which can make the truck unstable on the track.

[Boostin_69]

alright thanks :)

r there any alluminium chassis's out there?

[Boostin_69]

hey ive just rebuilt my diff with a diff rebuild kit so now ive got 2 set the diff up , break it in and then tighten it.
my problem is that ive got no starting point to break it in. :mad:
it says in the manual that after 3 batterys u have 2 tighten it up a certain amount.
can any1 tell me if they kno how tight the diff comes when u buy it?
ive got the normal ST not the pro. :D

Any help appreciated :) I REALLY need this fixed ASAP so i can get bashing again !!!!!!

[Boostin_69]

PLZ some1 reply my answer is above ^^^^^

[elecracr]

Just tighten it, then loosen it like it says in the manual, i think 1/8 turn or so, then once you have ran it, tighten it again. And loosen it how much it says. There really is no set amount to tighten it, just make sure its not slipping when you accelerate. Did you use any grease to rebuild it?

[Boostin_69]

nah no grease IN the diff only on the diff GEAR
SHOULD i put grese IN the diff :confused: ??

[ErikB]

Yeah, all those little diff balls should have a good layer of grease all around them. You should use the associated stealth diff lube if you can.

[Boostin_69]

ok i will put some grease on the diff balls thanks 4 ur help :)

[skinggg845]

Hey everyone, I was thinking about getting the Evader St Pro and was wondering if this truck is competitive with the XXX-T and the T4? Let me know what you think.

[Boostin_69]

yeh of Course its up there with asscociated and losi its just half the price :) lol

[philp37]

And far better value. Thats the bottom line.