Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[pinarello]

hey i was wondering if any1 else has broken their chassis?
would it be better to get graphite or just the stock chassis?
BTW im a hard basher so i need something strong

I just broke mine last week. I believe the graphite is even more fragile. Is it cold where you live? If so, that compounds the problem.

Do you know if you can use the evader nitro alum. chassis for the electric?

[pudder]

You would have to do a lot of modifications to make the nitro chassis work.

[philp37]

Not worth it... buy a chassis. did you break any other parts when you broke the chassis? Was it a head on collision that caused the breakage?? And was the breakage to the hing area I am guessing it was. When you put it all back together, consider improvements to the bumper/bulkhead/front brace area and chassis breakage on the front hinge will be a thing of the past.

[kurrz]

Anyone run a brushless set up in their evader?

[I Trust Tyler]

yeah i run the novak 5800, it pretty damn fast and you can pull wheelies easily.

[kurrz]

The ss5800 is not too much for the drivetrain? Do you have any mods? Thanks

[kurrz]

Iwas thinking of going with the ss4300. But I'm not sure yet.

[pinarello]

Not worth it... buy a chassis. did you break any other parts when you broke the chassis? Was it a head on collision that caused the breakage?? And was the breakage to the hing area I am guessing it was. When you put it all back together, consider improvements to the bumper/bulkhead/front brace area and chassis breakage on the front hinge will be a thing of the past.

I broke two parts that day - the chassis and the servo brace. The parts boke when I landed upside-down from a three foot jump.

The bulk-head area was fine. The chassis broke at the far end of the battery compartment (just before the rear chassis plate). I had a spare, so I've already swapped it out.

I just bought this evader (used - ebay) and it seems that I break a part a day, and always something different. History follows:

- My first time out, my son hit me with his... ahhem ... Bandit and took out the right side suppention arm.
- Next, I hit a bush and broke the front shock tower and front body mount.
- Then I flipped (in the driveway) and bent one of the shock piston and rear chassis plate.
- Took it off a jump sideways and landed upside-down. That was when the servo brace and chassis broke.
- Finally, when driving on bumpy grass I was taking a turn and broke the front knuckle arm.

Could it be that these are older, brittle, plastic parts? I'm hoping that thinks start to settle down so I can enjoy my truck.

[philp37]

There were early units that had brittle parts. I have three of them.
The very earliest ones can be identified by the chassis. The chassis has no cross webbing. They are not as stiff and more prone to break the way you describe. Also early units had a top brace that had no cross webbing. It was nicer for observing the operation and setting the servo saver, but would break with any kind of front end collision.

[I Trust Tyler]

The ss5800 is not too much for the drivetrain? Do you have any mods? Thanks
the evaders gearbox isnt so bad from the start, i upgraded it with the nitro evader alum. idler gear and a hamman ghuman b3 diff gear (perfect fit) and some 5mm X 8mm sealed bearing to fit inside the diff gear. I used some hpi diff grease but i hear that associated stealth lube is best. I only did this upgrade because i plan on beating the ultimate piss outta it, and using a high power li-po brushless set-up eventually. The novak 5800 shouldnt destroy the gears to easily, i would recommend the aluminum tranny brace to reduce the flex. i would go with the 5800 because you can always adj. your slipper to prevent instant engagment which is the main reason i stripped gears ( i run no slip and tight diff.)

[pinarello]

There were early units that had brittle parts. I have three of them.
The very earliest ones can be identified by the chassis. The chassis has no cross webbing. They are not as stiff and more prone to break the way you describe. Also early units had a top brace that had no cross webbing. It was nicer for observing the operation and setting the servo saver, but would break with any kind of front end collision.

Two questions:

1) How can you tell if the parts have webbing? Is it visable like fiberglass?

2) Do the cross webbing parts have a different part number?

[kurrz]

How fast is your evader and what are your run times?

[pudder]

Parts with cross webbing just have more plastic bracelike features that make them stronger. I think they are the same part numbers as the original parts they just changed the plastic molds.

[Boostin_69]

Hey evry1 i need help after i rebuilt my diff i tested my evader out but when i did , something was slipping ALOT so i tightened up my slipper. still slipped. so i tightened up my diff. still slipped. and now its making some sound like a gear is stripping so i cracked open the gearbox and found evry gear in MINT condition not 1 stripped tooth. and then i noticed my spur and slipper disks arent spinning straght. its not the spur or slippper disks that are bent its just that the first disk with that blue thing sits kinda crooked?

I need LOTS of HELP

[rigrishracer22B]

my evader had the same problem all i did was took the diff apart and took electric motor cleaner and sprayed the bearings out cleaned it real good and put 3in1 oil on the bearings and gears and it has worked fine.

[Boostin_69]

well i did spray it with motor clener spray AND re-oil EVERYthing but n0t OVER oiled.

Thanks 4 ur suggestion and i might just have 2 do that cos' ya kno i got no other ideas on what is wrong :confused:

[rigrishracer22B]

well to be honest with you i used about half a bottle,and has anybody seen these latemodel bodies they look great on the evader http://www.mcallisterracing.com/racing/page6.html

[rigrishracer22B]

if the oiling dosent work try to sand the blue pad down(if its black) on the slipper cause it glazes over and dosent work right :D

[Boostin_69]

yeh ill try doin that but what about the slipper itself , its sitting on the shaft crooked wich makes the spur go uneven ?

[Boostin_69]

*update*
i found out that its the spur gear making that noise because it sits on an angle.

ive tried 2 fix it but its the fist slipper disk with the blue pad on it that sits krooked when its on the shaft.

ANY1 got any ideas on how i could fix this?

[rigrishracer22B]

hit it real hard with a hammer lol :D no i will look over mine tonight and ill get back with u tomorrow :cool:

[philp37]

*update*
i found out that its the spur gear making that noise because it sits on an angle.

ive tried 2 fix it but its the fist slipper disk with the blue pad on it that sits krooked when its on the shaft.

ANY1 got any ideas on how i could fix this?

Can you show us a picture?

[philp37]

well to be honest with you i used about half a bottle,and has anybody seen these latemodel bodies they look great on the evader http://www.mcallisterracing.com/racing/page6.html

The only body that I see that will fit Evader is the Dodge Dakota. Looks good. There are not alot of choices out there for bodies that fit evader is there?

[geezer]

*update*
i found out that its the spur gear making that noise because it sits on an angle.

ive tried 2 fix it but its the fist slipper disk with the blue pad on it that sits krooked when its on the shaft.

ANY1 got any ideas on how i could fix this?
Hi Booston_69, I have found a couple of things that can goof you up. Check the pin on the top shaft, (it may be broken or bent) and the brass washes on the clutch shaft. The fat inner brass washer weres on the inside. We replace these often. We also drill the center hole ( just a little bit) in the spur so it goes on the brass bushing easily. I hope this helps.

[rigrishracer22B]

yeah thats the only thing i could figure out is the shaft bent or is the inner slipper pad bent (the inner metal piece) to check this lay the flat end on a flat surface and if it wobbles its bent .......... :D ,,,,,,,,, to philip37 I got the tuscon latemodel body to fit it dont cover the wheels but it looks good

[skinggg845]

I have decided to get an Evader Pro to begin racing. Could you guys recommend some hopup/spare parts that will help in performance and/or parts that are prone to breaking easily. Thanx in advance!!

[alabamarcguy]

The only body that I see that will fit Evader is the Dodge Dakota. Looks good. There are not alot of choices out there for bodies that fit evader is there?
i have 2 late models with evader bx chassis the tulsa is the one that fits them

[Boostin_69]

nah the shaft itself isnt bent infact its brand new. ill have a go at replacing the pin.

Thanks evry1 :)!!

[geezer]

Booston_69 Check the screws that hold the spur gear on. Make sure the little lock washers are on the screws. With out the washers the screws are to long and hit the other half. I use 2 on each one.

[Boostin_69]

yeh the washers are there.

i relpaced the pin with a new sraight 1 but it made no difference.

[rigrishracer22B]

you have something broke or bent deep inside skinggg845 the best hopups 4 the evader would be graphite steering arms and racing tires what surface are you going to run on?

[Boostin_69]

theres nothing bent i checked like a miilion time in and out of the gearbox

[rigrishracer22B]

are the dirtworks 2.2 truck tires any MLgood on hard pack dirt http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM92&P=ML

[skycop51]

Your links do not work at all... :)


You need a metal geared servo. The stock servo is an s3003, and has plastic gears. A hitec 645mg or 625mg servo would be fine. If your not looking to spend $40 on a servo, get an HS-475HB servo.

625mg http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-625MG_Ultra_Speed/hs-625mg_ultra_speed.html

645mg http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-645MG_Ultra_Torque/hs-645mg_ultra_torque.html

475hb http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-475HB_Super_Pro_BB/hs-475hb_super_pro_bb.html

[skycop51]

I am retired from the Air Force and needed a hobby. Wow this is good. Hope you can share with me. I have two trucks coming, no tools and do not know what to get etc.

Maybe you can help the old sarge..tell me what I will need etc. I hve nothing now just common tools. Good luck with the Air Force is was really good to me.


Bill MSgt, USAF, Ret.:**


The first Evader one (Colorado Avalanche) I did was just to see if I could do one. I did a simple Maxx body because my other one is hanging together by a thread. This one, I did as a favor that I got hosed on. $23 for the body and $14 for a spray can of Alclad. I don't always have time to tool around. I'm active duty in the Air Force, but on full time scholarship to get my Masters degree. Once school starts up again, I'll be lucky to play with a truck, let alone paint a detailed bod. LOL

I didn't destroy my Evader tranny with my Hacker B50 ;( With it being only 3033 rpm/v vs the 4200 rpm/v of the Lehner Basic, it doesn't explode the tranny. I guess somewhere between 21.8K rpm and 30.2K rpm is the tranny meltdown point. I think I liked the Lehner motor better, but the Hacker controller is definately the bomb.

[skycop51]

Over seas by chance:
I did 12 years over seas, if you are I would be glad to help you get stuff. etc.


Bill
The first Evader one (Colorado Avalanche) I did was just to see if I could do one. I did a simple Maxx body because my other one is hanging together by a thread. This one, I did as a favor that I got hosed on. $23 for the body and $14 for a spray can of Alclad. I don't always have time to tool around. I'm active duty in the Air Force, but on full time scholarship to get my Masters degree. Once school starts up again, I'll be lucky to play with a truck, let alone paint a detailed bod. LOL

I didn't destroy my Evader tranny with my Hacker B50 ;( With it being only 3033 rpm/v vs the 4200 rpm/v of the Lehner Basic, it doesn't explode the tranny. I guess somewhere between 21.8K rpm and 30.2K rpm is the tranny meltdown point. I think I liked the Lehner motor better, but the Hacker controller is definately the bomb.

[skycop51]

Like to see it, just went to Ebay not sure if its still there?
Skycop51

I put that body up on Ebay and have ZERO bids after 3 days. I think I may just cancel the auction. If anyone is interested in critiquing the ad, the auction is titled "Stars and Bars Crowd Pleazer Body for XXXT".

[skycop51]

Know placing a reserve fixes that problem. I have had it too and people sometimes seem to think you are giving it away. My thoughts.


skycop51 :) I closed the auction. I didn't want to sell it for next to nothing.

Saw something in the newest RCCA about rcuniverse having auctions. May try selling there.

[skycop51]

Got interested in the combo set and now out of business.

skycop51

Try the jep rc hing pin brace set, they are cheaper than the duratrax alluminum one and is just as good. http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

I just use my fingernail to pry the e-clips off, non have ever broken for me.

[skycop51]

your links...thought I would tell ya.

skycop51

I have put many different bodies on my Evader. If you like the look of stadium trucks, losi and duratrax will be fine. However, I suggest you get inventive. Put a porsche body on it didn't you always want a porsche for offroading? (not a hack at the cayenne) Check out the bodies I have put on mine.
willys (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/willys.html)
corolla (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc.html)
my favorite (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini.html)
pt cruiser (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/ptcruiser.html)
Go here for universal conversion kit. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/universal.html)

[skycop51]

coming and I am new at this. I thought that mod. engine that comes with it are supposed to be pretty good? What would you suggest for a decent but not to much money upgrade then. Please.

skycop51

rc 10 gt, I've got a Evader and it's by far the most truck for the money I've ever bought. They are on back order right now so if you want one and you have found one, get it. Stock motor and steering servo is junk but the rest of it is tough as my GT. We race this thing against losi and AE and it's is close to as good if not better. It just doesn't break, unless you do something stupid. LOL

[skycop51]

new to this. SO my Rustler needs some help a bit? What can I do to fix it without going dead broke.

skycop51Yeah go with the evader if it is a good deal. It won't break unless you run into something cemented (or frozen) into the ground. My friend justed picked up a rusty and I was amazed at the things it should of had but didn't.
1. No foam in the tires
2. non adjustable shocks (evader has threaded shocks)
3. no servo saver
4. no bearings (bushings only)

Those four things will run you around $100 to get and the price difference between the evader and the rusty is not that much.

Plus the stock rusty body is butt!

[Boostin_69]

What is ur rusty broken or do u want to upgrade it??

[JSSuper]

coming and I am new at this. I thought that mod. engine that comes with it are supposed to be pretty good? What would you suggest for a decent but not to much money upgrade then. Please.

skycop51

I've noticed your posts in the Rustler thread and in here as well. I'd like to help yah if I can. Always willing to help a newbie :) First, if there are tracks in your area to race on I'd definitely look into doing that. Its more fun than I can ever explain :D . If I were you, I'd dedicate the Evader to the track and bash around with the Rustler. IMO the Evader is far superior to track and racing duty than the Ruster.

The Evader, is basically the old Team Losi XX-T. Duratrax purchased the tooling from TL when they went to the XXX-T. These are still great trucks and can be competative in the outdoor tracks especially. Smooth blue groove indoor tracks you will probably be wishing for a T4 or XXX-T, but you'll still have a lot of fun and it will work ok, just not the best.

The Rustler is designed to be more of a play truck. I'd set it up accordingly and bash it around your house or even better is the local skate park. You can have a lot of fun at a skate park, just try hard to land on your wheels and use threadlock accordingly.

For the Evader, I missed it, did you purchase a Pro kit or the standard RTR?
The PRO kit has a much better ESC and runs a 15x2 mod motor. Thats some serious fun, but.... Again, I'd go race so contact your local LHS and find a track. I'm sure they have a stock truck class, so you'll want to get a good stock motor for it. If you do want to go race, don't run your Evader pin tires on the pavement. Pavement will wear off pin tires in minutes. For the Evader, in either form, I can't really see you need to change much. Sure the radio isn't the best but its made by Futaba and will work fine, I wouldn't concern myself with servo's until you break/strip gears in the ones that come with them.

For the Rustler.... I don't know much about these, but I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it. Did you purchase the one that includes an ESC? If so thats good. These come with a 20t stinger motor, but that ESC can only handle down to a 17T motor. I'd maybe do that, but not until the 20T is toast or until you are ready for more power. Yah, bearing kit is an upgrade for it. I don't think I'd worry about it too much because I've had a number of play trucks/cars and bearings is really for a smooth, friction free drivetrain. I do notice a difference with full bearings, but ok yeah I'd maybe do it if you found a bearing kit for cheap.

Other than that, some tools like needlenose, small screwdriver set, hex drivers (Alan wrenches), small sockets 1/4, 5/16, 11/32 are the most used that I have. Then as you are at the track or the more you drive your trucks, you'll begin to see what you want to have in your pitbox/s. You'll really start to figure out what you want to upgrade etc.

I'd really race if I were you, then as years pass you'll be dragging a table, chair, tools box, 2 parts boxes, 1 charging supply box, 2 tires boxes, 2-3 race cars/trucks, nitro supplies, bump starter, radio, generator, shade tent, and drink cooler to the track..... You may want to start saving for a bigger truck! :D Needless to say, I got hooked. Now I don't really have time for "play" r/c's anymore.

Honestly though, welcome to the hobby. I and others would be glad to help!

[philp37]

Good post. Except the Evader is not built from tooling bought from Losi for the xxt. The Evader and xxt are still very differant trucks. There are no more components that fit between xxt and Evader than there is between xxxt and xxt. The same is true for xxt-cr and xxxt to the evader. Basically, all four models can interchange A-arms, shock towers, shocks, and wheels. Bulk heads, main chassis, rear chassis plate, transmission, and most other components do not fit. Some dogbones fit eachother, some do not.

If anyone questions this. Look at the biggest differances between Evader and xxt. The entire bulkhead system and the way it mounts to the completely differant front of the chassis. Then look at the rear chassis plate and transmission.

It is true that the closest Losi to the Evader is the the last xxt made, the model xxt-cr which had among other things, the longer A-arms of the xxxt.

You will hear alot in forums that the Evader design was bought from or built under license from Team Losi, but is simply not true.

[marinearmenibro]

I recently bought an evader st (duh look at the thread name) and i was wondering wat tooth pinion I should use if i am going to install a 17 turn motor this one (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUJ0&P=ML) . I was also wondering if the rpm clawz rims will work on my evader thanks in advance. :D

[philp37]

I recently bought an evader st (duh look at the thread name) and i was wondering wat tooth pinion I should use if i am going to install a 17 turn motor this one (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUJ0&P=ML) . I was also wondering if the rpm clawz rims will work on my evader thanks in advance. :D

If you were comfortable with the 20 tooth pinion with the photon, but would still like to see more speed, I would use anywhere from 16-22 tooth pinion for most applications. I currently use a 21 tooth pinion with my 17t motor Pinions are fairly cheap, and you may want differant ratios for differant situations. You can buy a 5 pack of Robinson with something like 15-25 tooth pinions in odd or even. I would suggest this, then play around with them a bit. You will soon discover what is best for you and the conditions you drive in. Just be careful not to overheat the motor.

Just noticed that you bought a Venom Fireball. I have one and love it. Like I said I use 21 tooth with it and have the timing advanced about 4 degrees. At these specs, seems to run a bit cooler than the photon. Just be sure to get the right replacement brushes.

BTW this setup has great speed. I would guess at least 40% plus faster than the average photon with 20 tooth pinion.

[marinearmenibro]

where would you get the pack of Robinson pinions because the dont have them at towerhobbies and they dont have anything for the evader on horizonhobby. and will that 17t be ok for my standard esc. thanks.

[philp37]

where would you get the pack of Robinson pinions because the dont have them at towerhobbies and they dont have anything for the evader on horizonhobby. and will that 17t be ok for my standard esc. thanks.
I had trouble finding them too. But here they are. Sets of 6, odd and even.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX35&P=M
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX34&P=M

There is a good chance that your LHS has them too.

[Novak76]

my evader has been sitting on the shelf for awhile
when i finally got time to goto the track

i broke

front body mount (second time broke, first time i repaired it with gorrilla glue and it broke in a new spot)
one front knuckle arm
one servo arm
both front hub carriers
one universal dog bone axle (lost pin replaced with cut body clip)
one rear hub
bent both front kingpins

i got a total of about 3 laps in the whole night

[rigrishracer22B]

You drive like I do :D i had to do the same thing u did with the dog bone ive been trying to find another pin but nobody seem to have them................................If anybody knows where to get them please tell Thanks (in advance)

[Novak76]

for temp use , use a paper clip or a body clip then cut and bend it to fit.

i ordered new CVD's cause they r the same price as the universal joints

i have yet to find a pin to fit a universal joint

[rigrishracer22B]

thanks .....................................Hey everybody I want to see some of ur rides if possible put them on the site I will try to get my car posted to asap.

[Boostin_69]

well 4 the pin thing in the universal i just use a nail that fits the hole tightly the cut it to size and add a bit of thread locker to it.

[RCnick]

hey, i found some of the spring pins that are supposed to go in the driveshafts. The same thing happened to me, but i got the cvd's for the nitro evader and you dont have to worry about the pin falling out, plus they are really smooth.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAMM0&P=V

[marinearmenibro]

I was going to buy these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC5&P=ML) rims for my evader and was wondering if they would work. thanks in advance.

[philp37]

Those are for Rustler.

If you need them for evader. Here are the part numbers.
Rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEW34&P=7
Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEW36&P=7

[marinearmenibro]

thanks for the help. do you also know if this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB14&P=M) will work on the evader. thanks again.

[philp37]

thanks for the help. do you also know if this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB14&P=M) will work on the evader. thanks again.

Not sure. I have been wondering the same thing. I have been told that it might. The evader tranny is very close to the AE stealth. I do know that a cover for a Losi will not work.

A clear cover is good for inspection of gears though. One thing that I heard of someone doing was painting the clear cover but masking out a 5 mm spot so that gear mesh could be inspected.

[marinearmenibro]

ok i'll just get it and if it works i let you know in a pm.

[philp37]

ok i'll just get it and if it works i let you know in a pm.

Woops, gave you bad info. I just noticed that again, you listed the one for Traxxas rustler. Find the one for Associated T3. It is the one that may fit.
Here it is:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB10&P=7

[Boostin_69]

actualy those bue traxxas rims can fit all u need 2 do is get a hex thing and put it on normally . i did

[philp37]

actualy those bue traxxas rims can fit all u need 2 do is get a hex thing and put it on normally . i did

But is the dish correct. ie: Wheels for Associated will go right on with no hardware change, but the dish is differant than evader/losi, so the tracking width is changed, and the suspension's geometry is changed so much that handling is effected.

The only wheels that properly fit the evader st are the evader wheels and any wheels that are designed to fit the Losi xxt and xxxt. Most aftermarket wheels offer a Losi version.

[rigrishracer22B]

try these on the rear :cool:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC5&P=7


this shouldent throw the handiling off too much :confused:

and try these on the front :cool:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC6&P=M

and for the rear tires youll need these :D
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJH98&P=ML

[TeamMishap]

I am retired from the Air Force and needed a hobby. Wow this is good. Hope you can share with me. I have two trucks coming, no tools and do not know what to get etc.

Maybe you can help the old sarge..tell me what I will need etc. I hve nothing now just common tools. Good luck with the Air Force is was really good to me.


Bill MSgt, USAF, Ret.:**
Hey MSgt Bill,

I sent you an email on here. Drop me a line if you want to BS.

[marinearmenibro]

thanks for all the help so far but i still have one more question. does anybody know what bodies can fit on my evader. thanks in advance.

[philp37]

try these on the rear :cool:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC5&P=7


this shouldent throw the handiling off too much :confused:

and try these on the front :cool:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC6&P=M

and for the rear tires youll need these :D
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJH98&P=ML
Those are for Rustler.

If you need them for evader. Here are the part numbers.
Rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXEW34&P=7
Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXEW36&P=7

[philp37]

thanks for all the help so far but i still have one more question. does anybody know what bodies can fit on my evader. thanks in advance.

Any body that says it is for the Losi xxt or xxxt will fit on the evader st.

[madsavage]

Hi all

Im looking at buyin a ST pro kit (no motor,esc or radio gear) from tower. Im about $30 or $40 short on getting their discount of $40 if spend $199.

Im not very experienced with electric cars so really have no idear what is a good buy. I have a novak esc that I believe will go down to about a 9 turn motor. the truck will be used for mainly bashing by my sons and maybe some racing. so I dont need an extreme motor just a good solid reliable performer.

Any help would greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Pete

[guver]

How do you get the $40 discount?

[madsavage]

The following message was emailed to me last week.

Dear International R/C Car/Truck Enthusiast,
Save $40.00 Instantly Off Your $199 Order.



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[philp37]

Hi all

Im looking at buyin a ST pro kit (no motor,esc or radio gear) from tower. Im about $30 or $40 short on getting their discount of $40 if spend $199.

Im not very experienced with electric cars so really have no idear what is a good buy. I have a novak esc that I believe will go down to about a 9 turn motor. the truck will be used for mainly bashing by my sons and maybe some racing. so I dont need an extreme motor just a good solid reliable performer.

Any help would greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Pete

Buy cheap fair quality motors in the 13 to 17 turn range. Buy a spare set of rear tires and rims.
Most important parts in my opinion are spare front brace, front shock tower, front body mount and front bulk head.
Next most important to have are A-arms and; front and rear hubs.

If you can justify the cost, the aluminum front bulkhead will help keep front end breakage down to a minimum, as it helps to strengthen the entire front end.

Another approach is to buy your spare parts in the regular plastic for the non pro. Doing this, you can stock more and keep your parts inventory costs down. As you break stuff, you can order the graphite parts to replace later.

The Evader Pro has already been discounted by tower, and even without the 40 bucks off for spending 200, I think it is the best buy in RC right now. You are getting a great deal!

[madsavage]

Buy cheap fair quality motors in the 13 to 17 turn range. Buy a spare set of rear tires and rims.
Most important parts in my opinion are spare front brace, front shock tower, front body mount and front bulk head.
Next most important to have are A-arms and; front and rear hubs.

If you can justify the cost, the aluminum front bulkhead will help keep front end breakage down to a minimum, as it helps to strengthen the entire front end.

Another approach is to buy your spare parts in the regular plastic for the non pro. Doing this, you can stock more and keep your parts inventory costs down. As you break stuff, you can order the graphite parts to replace later.

The Evader Pro has already been discounted by tower, and even without the 40 bucks off for spending 200, I think it is the best buy in RC right now. You are getting a great deal!

Thanks for your help.

I will probably go with a Associated Reedy Flash Modified 15T Double. Im also getting a Hitec 645MG servo and some of the parts you recommend. Tires, rims, bulkhead, body mount and A arms. Tower dont seem to have the shock tower in stock. This brings me up to just over $200.00

Thanks

Pete

[kurrz]

Can someone suggest a baseline for a 19 turn motor as far as gearing goes? Thanks

[marinearmenibro]

You could just probably just keep the gearing the same.

[pudder]

Gear down at least 2 teeth to start.

[kurrz]

Does it matter whether or not I gear down the pinion or spur?

[rigrishracer22B]

what are you going to drive it on (bashing or racing,track surface) I have a 15 pin and the stock 76 spur in my pede and in my evader i have all stock both have 19 turn monster of touring motors.

[philp37]

Does it matter whether or not I gear down the pinion or spur?
Gearing down means less teeth or smaller pinion. A smaller or less teeth spur gear will gear up. Same effect as a bigger pinion.

Remember in any drive train.
Drive gear: bigger is higher speed.
Driven gear: bigger is lower speed.

Also remember that lower speed means more torque and higher speed means less torque.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Does anyone use a double 15 on theres?? Im using a speed gems 2x15 on it and its great. Ran it next to our real car on a private road and it was getting up to 40 mph. Is it an ok idea to get the treble 13 with standard gears or will the gears strip?

thanks dudes, Muz

[marinearmenibro]

I just broke a piece of plastice off my gearbox and i bought a new one and i can't get the broken one to come apart into two seperate pieces. what do i gotta do? thanks in advance.

[rigrishracer22B]

try to drive a really small flat headed screwdriver in between the 2 sides of the gearbox ;)

[Boostin_69]

hey this thread is gettin a lil' boring so can people post some videos and pics to lighten it up. :)

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Pics will be comin soon, nothin real special though, just graphie upgrade with aluminium bulkhead, new tyres and new electronics. The normal really. Anyone know where i can get a body prepainted in british or American flag??? Cant paint for my life.

[geezer]

Can anybody help? Old guys and computers don't mix. Can't figure out how to post pics. Thanks

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

At the bottom where it says post quick reply, it also says go advanced. Click this and at da bottom it will have a button to manage attachments click dat and add a pic

Muz

[marinearmenibro]

try to drive a really small flat headed screwdriver in between the 2 sides of the gearbox ;)
yeah but the drive pin is in the way and it won't come out.

[geezer]

Thanks SUPERSONIC ST, My three sons got me involved in RC about 5 years ago and I've never had so much fun. We race on a humpy bumpy oval. We call it OVAL CROSS. Here's a couple of puics of our track. No racing today. I'll post more later.

[rigrishracer22B]

nice track :cool: we have one but it is banked higher..................do you have the slipper all off (gear pads etc)

[rigrishracer22B]

hey BOOSTIN69 did u git ur evader figured out

[Boostin_69]

hey BOOSTIN69 did u git ur evader figured out ?

nope not yet ATM its down at the hobby shop

[geezer]

Here's pics of us doing some yard racing. The green truck is mine. I now have a pro for this summer. Can't wait. We use stock 27t and 19t motors. Hope to do some club racing this summer.

[riverat1540]

I purchased a duratrax nitro evader st with all the graphite this thing is sweet an light as hell. but it is really slow at least compared to my nirto cars. it came stock with a 15turn orion and i was wondering how i can get some speed out of this thing without going brushless or having to change the stock speed controll. im open to all sugestions and really like the reliability of these electrics.

[rigrishracer22B]

well what batts are you using??????
and what esc are u runnin???????

[riverat1540]

well what batts are you using??????
and what esc are u runnin???????

the esc is a stock intellispeed 12t modified w/reverse and the batteries are orion superduty plus 3000mah ni-mh

[philp37]

There are plenty of good twelve turn doubles out there. If you don't have a comm lathe, dont spend too much money on the motor though. Better off to buy a couple of cheaper ones with brushes that do not have too much or any silver in them. keep track of your motor temp and go up on the pinion and advance timing as you see fit. Again, not too much advance on the timing as without a comm lathe, you want to be easy on the comm.

[TeamMishap]

Thanks a million for that Tower code! $40 off $200 makes me wanna spend $$$. Might be just the nudge I need to start playing with Lipo batteries. :)

[riverat1540]

There are plenty of good twelve turn doubles out there. If you don't have a comm lathe, dont spend too much money on the motor though. Better off to buy a couple of cheaper ones with brushes that do not have too much or any silver in them. keep track of your motor temp and go up on the pinion and advance timing as you see fit. Again, not too much advance on the timing as without a comm lathe, you want to be easy on the comm.

I dont know about electric but im trying to catch on if i get a 12t motor how much faster will it go, my esc can handle a 6 or 7 cell battery pack right now im using a six. is a 12t the fastest i gan get w/out going brusless if so what brand and model should i get. any one else with any suggestions will also help.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I purchased a duratrax nitro evader st with all the graphite this thing is sweet an light as hell. but it is really slow at least compared to my nirto cars. it came stock with a 15turn orion and i was wondering how i can get some speed out of this thing without going brushless or having to change the stock speed controll. im open to all sugestions and really like the reliability of these electrics.

How can ya have a nitro evader with a 15 turn motor????
Slow as hell? just get WS Dean Plugs and a 2x15 speed gems or if ya wanna bit more, the 3x13.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Hey Geezer

Ur evader looks modded, anything special??? Can ya get some close up pics??, Here are some of mine. They so small you can hardly see em!!!!

[rigrishracer22B]

if you get a bigger motor then it will drain the battery faster go ahead and get 3600 matched cells 7 cell

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Thought I would give ya another small picture to squint at. Mods includs graphite arms and shock towers, speed gems double 15 and 12 turn esc, dirt hawg 2 tires, luminous green bumper (ripped the old one off in a drag race in wales!! I still won though!!!) Aluminium front bulhead, and i have replaced the battery strap with two high strength rubber bands which keep the battery in well and reduce the weight, no antenna tube because of the air resistance ( i dont need it to go too far away from me) I usually use it for drag races in which it gets up to 40mph or racing in bogs in which ive got through a set of shocks, a rear chassis plate, 6 steering servo's, 2 a arms, back tires AND wheels, couple of gear covers which have been ripped off, the already said bumper, bulkead and front shock tower on hitting diesel and going under a car. Thinks thats about it, Oh yeah, i also broke it in half one time!!! It looks mostly standard but on concrete, it wont fail even in wet to scrape the motor guard as it accelerates from stand still. Cant think of anything else to say. Weel here is what the inside looks like, its in a bad state after someone stopped there car on the warm up right infront of me, BANG!!! Ripped the old body off which then tugged on the battery cable which ripped the end off that. I also cut the switch off and hot wired it after that.

How on Earth will you be able to see this??? If ya wanna see a good pic of my car, u gonna have ta have msn. If ya wanna exchange Evader pics then ask!!!!

[geezer]

Hey Geezer

Ur evader looks modded, anything special??? Can ya get some close up pics??, Here are some of mine. They so small you can hardly see em!!!!
At that time I had an 8 turn racing esc, Epic stock motor, Losi wheels with good rubber. Soft tire compound is a must for racing. ProLine tires front and rear. M 3 compound. We had to switch to Losi rims. The stock Evader rims break to easy. With the Losi rims you wear the tires out and the rims never break. They work for me.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Never had any real problems with my rims, the only thing to do with the wheels that broke was the pin on the end of the dog bone, it broke of round a corner and i ended up with three wheels, also shattered the left dogbone. Anyone know for certain another type of dogbone that will work on mine?? Some say losi ones should fit, which dogbones??? Anyone know beatyourtuck website??? can look at vids on there, im gonna go make one hopefully.

[geezer]

Axles are a problem for us too. We also have transmission problems, breaking the gears. This year we are going to put metal gears in. That should solve the problem. I'm working on better pics.

[riverat1540]

How can ya have a nitro evader with a 15 turn motor????
Slow as hell? just get WS Dean Plugs and a 2x15 speed gems or if ya wanna bit more, the 3x13.

Its just a evader st pro w/ 15 turn motor and it is slow sorry bout the typo. but i do need an affordable upgrade for this.
thanks
Jeremy

[philp37]

I have been told that the axles for the xxtcr and the xxxt should fit. The xxt will be too short. The xxxt2 will be too long. Some say the best cv axles are made by MIP.

Geezer, I love your oval cross. Looks like its got the neighbors into elec stadium trucks as well. Way to go! You seem to be a great ambassador for the sport at the grass roots level. (or should i say lawn). :)

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Its just a evader st pro w/ 15 turn motor and it is slow sorry bout the typo. but i do need an affordable upgrade for this.
thanks
Jeremy

Hmmm, is the motor in good condition. How much money accounts for a cheap upgrade? $40 for the triple wound 13 turn speed gems motor on towerhobbies. Great torque and still very good speed, ya wont need to upgrade ur esc either.

[riverat1540]

Hmmm, is the motor in good condition. How much money accounts for a cheap upgrade? $40 for the triple wound 13 turn speed gems motor on towerhobbies. Great torque and still very good speed, ya wont need to upgrade ur esc either.

Thanks im deeply considering this and its in my price range (under $100) so how much faster will i go and what batteries should i use for longest run time and the most power. so about the 13 turn speed gem why not a 12 turn instead?

And my 15 turn is in great condition ive only ran the truck 3 times.

[geezer]

Thanks philip37, The track is completely void of grass now. The racing surface is 8 to 9 feet wide. I have 3 trucks my own self. My purple truck is a loaner for anyone wanting to try rc racing. The green one was my first and backup. But my pro is my favorite. It has titanium hingpins. kingpins and turnbuckles. Losi wheels, Proline M3 lugnuts on the rear and M3 ribbed front. Heatsink motor plate, light weight clutch, and a hi-torque servo. Esc is an 8 turn forword only. This truck ROCKS.

[geezer]

Here's one more without body. I'm going to change the scews to titanium also. Light is quick.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Thanks im deeply considering this and its in my price range (under $100) so how much faster will i go and what batteries should i use for longest run time and the most power. so about the 13 turn speed gem why not a 12 turn instead?

And my 15 turn is in great condition ive only ran the truck 3 times.

Don't know how fast it will actually go but goin much lower and u will lose the torque. I only say the speed gems cos i know the make well, its never failed me so i always use it. Feel free to tell me any other good makes. I like the triple because there is less lagging on the motor due to the constant magnetic field put on the coils of wire.

PS - Apparently you shouldnt go for the fire balls, they actually turn into a fireball. My friend had that problem with his rustler.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Here's one more without body. I'm going to change the scews to titanium also. Light is quick.

Its a lovely truck, does the back wing really need to stick up that much?? Surely thats only useful for MAJOR height. Suddenly realised how hard it is to help people on here, we all doin different things with our cars! Any one else to bog racing? i dont just mean the odd puddle, i mean places where ya get it wrong and ur underwater. Does anyone race their cars for money?? i've only done it a few times.

[megaman]

Thanks philip37, The track is completely void of grass now. The racing surface is 8 to 9 feet wide. I have 3 trucks my own self. My purple truck is a loaner for anyone wanting to try rc racing. The green one was my first and backup. But my pro is my favorite. It has titanium hingpins. kingpins and turnbuckles. Losi wheels, Proline M3 lugnuts on the rear and M3 ribbed front. Heatsink motor plate, light weight clutch, and a hi-torque servo. Esc is an 8 turn forword only. This truck ROCKS.

Man, I like that alot. I'm looking to get an Evader Pro Prebuilt on tower for 99. Need to save! Just put 150 into my Mini-T (More or less, another reciever and I have a nice radio to share.) But I'm also thinking of getting a Losi so me and my friend can battle. LOL. What do you guys think? Be the underdog and tear him up?

[geezer]

I haven't done any club racing yet, but hope to this year. We've had as many as 10 guys at my house with all differant kinds of trucks and buggies. My truck is as fast as any of them (Losi and Associated). When I loose it's because I made a misstake driving, not because the truck was to slow. I like being the UNDER DOG with my Evader. The wing on the back is something I cut out myself. It's a little tall but looks cool.

[Boostin_69]

BEATYOURTRUCK.COM RULES lol their forums r sweet and they've got some evaders and all makes and forms of r/c's
sign up and have a look at the forums.

[Boostin_69]

BEATYOURTRUCK.COM RULES lol their forums r sweet and they've got some evaders and all makes and forms of r/c's
sign up and have a look at the forums.
BTW im R33 GODZILA on there

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Yer thought it wasnt race specific. My evader is my main one but im thinkin of gettin a team Assocciated just cos i like their company, evader will still be my main one though, ive paid too much to keep it runing, to give up on it. !50 dollars in mini t? that wont go far, i really need to get a couple of hundred for my mini t, all its got are the aluminium hub carriers, oops, wrong area to talk bout dat.

[generis]

hey, evader fans... Remember that jegs rc guy that was making parts and upgrade kits? well, i'm doing that now, and when the web service is done, I will post it with permission, of course.. anywho, my most fav racer right now is a evader st not pro, with all my mods on it, front tower brace, bumper/skid plate for nose, motor mods on a 19 turn chameleon pro (for the 19 turn class), intellespeed 8 turn race, and custom setup for hard dirt, and small air. I have heard this thread about a guy's 'slow' vader, and I really don't know what that is about, because my vader is lightning fast, wheelies, and runs for about 17 min hard on a 3k nimh with 18 tooth pin and stock spur... not to mention, fun to drive, and predictable handling.. just can't say enough good things about it, except for the yellow body(I think it's time for a change). Very good value for the $, and easily set up. Thanks to the dude who started this thread.

[riverat1540]

I bought the evader st pro stock w/ 15 turn orion and a intelispeed 12t esc and orion 3000 6 cell batteries this thing is pretty slow and its suppost to have a faster motor than the non pros but i dont know. im soo new to electric its not even funny but i am very familier w/ nitro but i hate all the tuning involved so i got the evader st pro. i want it to haul but i dont want to go brushless because i dont have the funds. i heard a 13 turn speed gem from tower hobbies and i also heard going to a 7 cell battery would help to i want speed and i want torque but speed over torque is preferred at long as it can do a wheelie from reverse to foward im good. if anyone knows any setup thats better and affordable id love to hear about. i say my evader is slow cause it is but it doesnt have to be that way
Thanks
Jeremy

[generis]

got it. I understand. My vader reminded me of that 'doesn't have to be this slow; feeling when I got it. .and with a good ESC, and a good torque motor, I have been very happy. I read on trinity's site (my preffered motors) that a d6 13 double and both purple springs with your timing set up right is a very fast and snappy setup, and it would fit in your ESC, be reminded that good fast wearing brushes make more pwr than hard brushes, and you will need some steady motor maintence. (meaning, motor shot after each day and lube bearings and brush sleeves after each shot, not a big deal) I beat my vader pretty hard, and it is consistently fast and snappy if I do good motor cleanings, as SOON as the brushes get sticky, it really sucks bad, and I know it is overdue. , anywho, your vader can fly, so go for a GOOD motor, and don't get all fretting about the com lathe thing, just keep up the brushes daily, and it will wear straight. I use trinity silver brushes in everything because they wear fast and don't eat my comm's.

[riverat1540]

Thanks generis ill be looking foward to going to this setup.

[riverat1540]

Hey what kind of battery setup should i run w/ the d6 13t double?

[rigrishracer22B]

:confused: I heard somewhere that associated bought out duratrax

[pudder]

I really doubt that.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Nahh that aint true, atleast i hope. Duratrax is still running strong. They have only just produced the vendetta so i doubt they will then fold.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Thanks im deeply considering this and its in my price range (under $100) so how much faster will i go and what batteries should i use for longest run time and the most power. so about the 13 turn speed gem why not a 12 turn instead?

And my 15 turn is in great condition ive only ran the truck 3 times.

I been researching on good motors that are meant to keep cool and run well. Ive come across i nice one if ur still looking, its the Trinity Cobalt, its a triple 12 and it costs about 55 dollars from tower once u have bought the no solder leads to go with it.

[kurrz]

Nahh that aint true, atleast i hope. Duratrax is still running strong. They have only just produced the vendetta so i doubt they will then fold. Actually that design was bought.

[rigrishracer22B]

the vendetta design was bought

[philp37]

Duratrax is part of a much larger company that includes hobbico and about 8 other popular RC names. (not car mfg names. Through hobbico they are also the north american distibutor for many more. They are probably the largest RC mfg and dist company based in north america.

What's this about the Vendetta? Where did you hear that?

[kurrz]

The mini quake and vendetta designs were bought from a company called Anderson I believe. Just like the evader st was a Losi proto type design.

[geezer]

Has anybody tried Lipoly batteries? I see Max Amps has an 8000 mah that is supposed to run for an hour before it needs a recharge. If that don't heat up a motor nothing will. They are 30% lighter than regular packs too. Pricy, but speed cost $$$. I heard these batteries turn your EP into nitro performance. www,maxamps.com Check them out.

[Boostin_69]

Hey guys I got my evader back from the LHS and it runs like a dream so silent lol. :eek:
i had 4 packs worth of flyin down a hill and hittin a 1m dirt pile the flyin up in the air another metre. :eek: And the best part is my vader held up to it all it was absolutely smashed by me but it still drove away with no breakages. :eek: :D

Im goinn up 2 my track in the bush with some sweet jumps 2day. im still chargin my packs (5) :p

[rigrishracer22B]

Hey guys I got my evader back from the LHS and it runs like a dream so silent lol. :eek:
i had 4 packs worth of flyin down a hill and hittin a 1m dirt pile the flyin up in the air another metre. :eek: And the best part is my vader held up to it all it was absolutely smashed by me but it still drove away with no breakages. :eek: :D

Im goinn up 2 my track in the bush with some sweet jumps 2day. im still chargin my packs (5) :p


what did they find was wrong with it ????????

[rigrishracer22B]

has any body tried the sway bars for the evader (do they kill the car or do they help the setup) dirt oval racing thanks in advance

[pudder]

usually they reduce steering and help keep the car tighter less body roll I wouldnt worry about getting them

[rigrishracer22B]

one more question what does the rear anti squat kit do


http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc6182.html

[geezer]

one more question what does the rear anti squat kit do


http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc6182.html
It's supposed to help with forward bite. You can also adjust the toe in from 0 to 3 degrees. This helps free the truck up and run with less drag. 3 degrees help you in the corners??? I tried differrant settings and couldn't tell the diff, maybe a pro driver could. The two parts that the hingepins go through are weak. We have broke several on our trucks. They should be made of aluminum.

[tog435]

Yes they should be! Also broken a handful of those on my evaders. The damn things snap when you breathe on them wrong. Same with the servo horn, if you've got a metal gear servo.

Are there metal servo horns that will work on this thing? The hobbyshop guys were telling me no, because of the offset. I've got so many spare servo-saver plastic parts now, just because you can't buy a (Duratrax) horn seperate.

[riverat1540]

I was wondering if you can buy internal servo parts for the S3003. I need some of the plastic gears inside but cant justify buying another servo fo two plastic gears missing some teeth id like to buy these online because its to far to hobby store so if someone has these or a link to buy much appreciated
thanks jeremy

[pudder]

buy a metal geared servo or just another standard servo, a new servo cant be more than a dollar or so over a gear set.

[kurrz]

You can get a servo gear set for around 5 bucks. I got one from tower.

[kurrz]

Here you go http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000623128&I=LXH422&P=K.

[generis]

Hey what kind of battery setup should i run w/ the d6 13t double?
Hey, give your input here, but in my experience, I think a QUALITY pack of xxxx amps is better than a cheap higher amp pack... That said, I have a cheap 3300 and a really cheap (GP) 3300 and a really good pro race 3000, (all 6 cell NI-MH) and in the same exact setup the gp3000 is not worth writing about, the cheap 3300 is fast and about 11 min running hard, and the good pro 3000 is a bit faster for a couple of minutes longer. I also have 2 trinity 1700 nicads and one is good, the other has a slow bleed if not trickled all the time, and they have been really cared for well since I got them. All have Dean's Ultras in them. For a d6 13t I would use a 7 cell for more speed, and a good pro pack around 3000 mah. you can get a really good one for under 50$us. Should be scarry fast.

O yah, and the stock servo saver I have on my vader is always getting stuck and killing my servo's also.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Has anybody tried Lipoly batteries? I see Max Amps has an 8000 mah that is supposed to run for an hour before it needs a recharge. If that don't heat up a motor nothing will. They are 30% lighter than regular packs too. Pricy, but speed cost $$$. I heard these batteries turn your EP into nitro performance. www,maxamps.com Check them out.

Do you know if they ship to uk???? Cos i have 300 dollars ready to be spent on boosting run time, time to get WS dean plugs and a nice 12000 mah battery. I probs might wait a while cos the price is still pretty high. It should fall once the set up for making them is runing well.

[philp37]

Speaking of Lipo batteries. Time for manufacturers to start thinking about the overall weight reduction that they are going to creaate on a car or truck. I mean weight reduction is a good thing, but the suspensions and the units overall have been designed from the ground up for carrying the extra weight of nicd and nimh batteries. This will give manufacturers major redesign opportunities and challenges. Not to mention what an existing stadium truck or buggy driver will have to consider. Just something to think about.

[generis]

Has anyone done anything to lighten their vaders?

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Has anyone done anything to lighten their vaders?

As shown on the pics on the other pageof my evader, i have used extra strenght elastic bands to hold the battery in instead of the battery starp, a bit of weight saved and also goo enough to hold the bigger lipo batteries. I have also done the obvious upgrade to graphite and aluminium. I dont want to go into all the cutting out holes in the chassis cos it would be too weak and i dont want more mud and water inside than what already gets thrugh. What else can I do thats costs next to nothing?

[geezer]

philp37, I think changing the shock oil and the springs is all you'd have to do for the lighter batteries. The truck should handle better and the tires last longer. SUPERSONIC ST, Titanium turnbuckles, hingepins, kingpins, and scews are about all thats left. I've done everything but the scews on my pro. Been looking for a titanium scew kit for the Evader Pro, but have not found one yet. I know you can buy the scews separately, but thats alittle pricy. How do you run your truck in the mud and water without frying your electronics??? I ran mine off the pavement and into the wet grass and smoked my motor.

[riverat1540]

Im curious about these lipo batteries can they be ran on a stock esc from duratrax for the evader st pro. what the biggest battery setub i could run that would also give me speed and runtime w/out frying the esc

[guver]

The lipo can be run on a stock esc , but should have a low voltage cut-off device. You can run any size that will fit such as a 3S with 8000 mah for max run-time and speed. but a 2S with 4000-6000 may be best.

check out the scorpion packs

[geezer]

I know maxamps has a package deal, battery, charger, and low votage cut off device. Most likely the rest of the manufactures have same. Some new chargers can charge lipo's. We are going to try them this summer.

[riverat1540]

sounds great ill be saving for the maxamps 8000mha upgrade 7.4 kit cause i dont think i can run the 11 one with my esc and i hope this things worth it for 210 bucks any one got one? runtime? speed?

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

SUPERSONIC ST, Titanium turnbuckles, hingepins, kingpins, and scews are about all thats left. I've done everything but the scews on my pro. Been looking for a titanium scew kit for the Evader Pro, but have not found one yet. I know you can buy the scews separately, but thats alittle pricy. How do you run your truck in the mud and water without frying your electronics??? I ran mine off the pavement and into the wet grass and smoked my motor.

i dont really know, it has lasted over a year, in the bogs with the same electronics, i havent even got a gear cover on mine. The standard reciever just never seems to break and that speed gems motor never gets mud in it. The old motor broke easily but the speed controller doesnt cos its set a little higher sometimes on my car due to me using so many rubber bands for the electrics! That is unlikely to break anyway cos its all solid state electrics.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

sounds great ill be saving for the maxamps 8000mha upgrade 7.4 kit cause i dont think i can run the 11 one with my esc and i hope this things worth it for 210 bucks any one got one? runtime? speed?

A 12000 mah will work on a 12 turn esc right??? This is gonna be one hell of a ride once we all get em. So they do sell the voltage cut offs on the sight aswell, goodo.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

OK, third post on a row but im wondering, has anyone thought about or actually changed to Digital Radio Systems?? It sure is a big jump at the one im looking at for 450 dollars but lkife would be a lot easier without crystals and it also has sensors on it. I just feel like going a bit high tech. If ya wanna know what im talkin about go to 2coolrc . com and go into radio gear where there will be one called the sensor.

[pudder]

I would have bought a spectrum for my M-8 if I didnt have to replace each of my recievers :(

[riverat1540]

A 12000 mah will work on a 12 turn esc right??? This is gonna be one hell of a ride once we all get em. So they do sell the voltage cut offs on the sight aswell, goodo.

as long as u get the voltage regulater the 7.4 12000 mah will work. im leaning towards the 8000 mah 7.4 because it is available with the upgrade kit that comes w/ the charger and voltage regulater all for 209.99. im still curios on what kind of runtime ill get but the 12000 mah seems too rich for my pocketbook.

[geezer]

I was wondering if anybody raced their EVADER ST in organized club events? I want to race this year. Like info on support equipment, tricks on setups, and general info on what to expect.

[generis]

I raced once on a track in desmoines Iowa, and it was in late august and the track was harder than cement. I found out why they put tracks and hobby shops in the same place, because i either broke something, or was in there buying tires for a good $.. that's all I can say, though, 1, put on soft good small pin rears, and a good soft ribb on the front, and light springs and 25 or 30 oil in the shocks, depends on your weight, 2, set up shock angles to the outside on top and (i used) inside on bottom (because the track was rough, and hard as a rock) because this gives you the most sprung travel and keeps the wheels on the ground. 3. I always race with the 6 cell in the center position in the batt tray( cut foam stop in half, put half in front, half in back) and with the susp setup I described. also, my reciever is on top of the steering bellcranks, and 8 turn intellespeed on the back shock tower. This setup has balanced out the handling and launch really nice, and has predictable understeer and hard cornering bite. You just have to experiment with the track conditions,
As for local club regs, you have to ask where you are.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

as long as u get the voltage regulater the 7.4 12000 mah will work. im leaning towards the 8000 mah 7.4 because it is available with the upgrade kit that comes w/ the charger and voltage regulater all for 209.99. im still curios on what kind of runtime ill get but the 12000 mah seems too rich for my pocketbook.

Cant do the other deal, im in england so the charger wouldnt even work, once i get it all set up, ill time how long it lasts for. Its also gonna add a nice bit of weight cos its 13mm taller than the one your hoping to get. Still struggling to find a 6 cell Lipo charger for the UK, and suggestions if anyone is from the UK here?

[riverat1540]

i cant get more that 4-5 min runtime out of my truck im noticing it getting slower in like a min i have a dynomite peak charger and im using orion super duty plus 3000mah nimh 6cell batteries i just cant get anything acceptable out of this setup could my motor be running me down? it came stock on the truck im running a 15t orion motor on an intellispeed 12t esc both stock w/ evader st pro. im thinking the charger is the problem. bacause its just a plugit in and push the button type but im new to electric and the charger and batteries came w/ the truck in the combo i bought. Really wanting to go to that max amps 7.4 8000mah kit.anyone know the runtimes for this? i have never had an electric car and also need to know how to do motor maintnance it still works perfect but i know there is maintnace involved i just dont know what. i grew up nitro

Please help
Jeremy

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Ok, off the top of my head, the things that are most trouble are the brushes, if they are old then you can loose a lot of energy through sparrks but this wouldnt slow the run time that much. Then if ya still have tamiya plugs (original) then you should change them to ws deans plugs cos in the end, it is likely they will melt from the heat of the conection. Check the wires on the esc are actually soldered in well cos my old esc didnt have them in properly causing it to melt the plastic away. The charger should be fine even with an easy to use one. I have a pro peak, one button charger and it is fine, the battery should be fine aslong as it hasnt had any major bangs on the ground in which look to see for ruptures in the pack. I also make sure i charge my batteries on a full slow charge once in a while, that can help ive been told just to keep the battery in a peak condition. True the motor might be messed up, havent ya got another battery to try on it?? Make sure the problem is fixed before gettin that 8000 mah battery, otherwise u chuckin 200 dollars down the drain. Thats all i can think of for the moment. Ill try think of more if it aint worked.

[geezer]

Thanks generis, I'm going to just go to the track and hook up with someone who can show me the routine. Problem is the nearest tracks are 50 to 75 miles away. So I'd like to be as prepared as I can be. I was wondering if the transmitter that came with my Pro is good enough. I'll start in the stock class(27t motors) and if I can handle it I want to try the 19t class. I have these motors already. Here's some yard racing.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Atleast there are quite a lot of people in America who mess around with RC, its uncommon in UK so I just look like a freak!! 27t??? Ive never heard of that before, we just have stock and upgraded classes. Does anyone have a rear aluminium shock tower?? does it really make any difference to the radio and esc gear?

[riverat1540]

Ok, off the top of my head, the things that are most trouble are the brushes, if they are old then you can loose a lot of energy through sparrks but this wouldnt slow the run time that much. Then if ya still have tamiya plugs (original) then you should change them to ws deans plugs cos in the end, it is likely they will melt from the heat of the conection. Check the wires on the esc are actually soldered in well cos my old esc didnt have them in properly causing it to melt the plastic away. The charger should be fine even with an easy to use one. I have a pro peak, one button charger and it is fine, the battery should be fine aslong as it hasnt had any major bangs on the ground in which look to see for ruptures in the pack. I also make sure i charge my batteries on a full slow charge once in a while, that can help ive been told just to keep the battery in a peak condition. True the motor might be messed up, havent ya got another battery to try on it?? Make sure the problem is fixed before gettin that 8000 mah battery, otherwise u chuckin 200 dollars down the drain. Thats all i can think of for the moment. Ill try think of more if it aint worked.

well i checked all the wires and there fine my motor never gets hot just warm and i tried an old radio shack battery and it worked the best. i think the batteries that came w/ the car just suck. but i want to upgrade my motor to a trinity D6 13turn but ill probally cut my runtime in half. im thinkin of taking it to the hobby shop to see what they think. i mean this thing has only been ran through like 15 batteries and ive never cleaned the motor or checked anything like that but it still runs like it did when i first got it. ill be sure to post my findings.

[riverat1540]

well my problem is solved. I just found out that my charger (dynamite mega peak) is a ni cad charger only and my batteries are nimh. when i bought the car combo pack they gave me the wrong charger for the batteries they gave me and it doesnt say anything about being nicad or nimh on the box or instructions. im taking it back tmorrow. i got it all packed nice and neat in the box looking like new so hopefully they will do an exchange. i hope to get the dynamite Vision Peak ac/dc Peak charger which lists the exact same price on their website. im gonna try so wish me the best of luck or else im screwed and stuck with a charger that does me no good. ohh and this also explains why my old radio shack battery worked better because it being nicad.

[geezer]

Atleast there are quite a lot of people in America who mess around with RC, its uncommon in UK so I just look like a freak!! 27t??? Ive never heard of that before, we just have stock and upgraded classes. Does anyone have a rear aluminium shock tower?? does it really make any difference to the radio and esc gear?
I've been involved for about 6 years now. Came into it late in life (I'm 59 now). I think RC is on the up swing in the states. Look at the RC magazines now. They get bigger and bigger with every issue. RC CAR ACTION, and DRIVER are our favorites. Lots of good info. Your no freak, just someone into a great hobby. The 27t is the stock class, and the 19t is like a middle class. Anything above that is a modified or open. I don't have any aluminum parts so can't help you there. I go for graphite. Want to be as light as posible.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Im bothered about weight on the car but adding a little to get more traction on the back is worth a litle extra, it will still weigh less than if I left it as plastic stock. Another thing wrong with the UK is it only has certain brands such as TA and Traxxas, the others have hardly reached UK yet, Duratrax is starting to make a small appearance but so far, i have to get parts from america. The original evader st hasnt even been taken to the UK, only the pro version, its still cheaper to get it from towerhobbies cos of the exchange rate.

[geezer]

We have done about 90% of our RC perchases from Tower Hobbies. You can't beat their prices and their service to their costomers. They have every part for the truck. The hobby shops that are close to us never have what we need. I guess they can't aford the inventory. I have built up a pretty good inventory of parts, so down time is minimal. The Evader ST Pro rtr for $199.99 is a great deal. I really like mine. $30.00 off a $200.00 order before Feb. 28 makes it even better. Code 011FE

[geezer]

Lost again.

[riverat1540]

We have done about 90% of our RC perchases from Tower Hobbies. You can't beat their prices and their service to their costomers. They have every part for the truck. The hobby shops that are close to us never have what we need. I guess they can't aford the inventory. I have built up a pretty good inventory of parts, so down time is minimal. The Evader ST Pro rtr for $199.99 is a great deal. I really like mine. $30.00 off a $200.00 order before Feb. 28 makes it even better. Code 011FE

Yea ill say i paid $285 for mine at hobbytown USA

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I payed 180 dollars for the standard st but i didnt have to pay import duty cos i told the import duty guy it was my birthday present when i got off the plane. that shaded about 35 dollars but this was a few years ago now. Got it from Riders hobby store in Michigan.

[rigrishracer22B]

need advice on breaking in a 19 turn elec motor (monster of touring by trinity)

[riverat1540]

It worked i took back the charger i bought a year and a half ago to the hobby shop and told them they sold me the wrong one i still had my recipt and i paid 35 dollars for it and i got the one i wanted for an even exchange, even though its a 50 dollar charger , Im so glad something worked out in my favor for once and it just goes to show youll never know if you dont try.

Jeremy

[geezer]

need advice on breaking in a 19 turn elec motor (monster of touring by trinity)
There's a couple of ways. Some charges have a motor break in mode. Set the charger on motor break in mode for about 10 minutes on 3 volts. Or use a RPM motor stand with a slave motor to turn the new motor for 10 to 15 minutes. Or you can put it in your truck and run it at one quarter throttle for three or 4 minutes. What your looking for, is the brush surface to be completely broke in and making full contact with the commutator on the armature. Some motors come broke in.

[kurrz]

Can't you also use serrated brushes?

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Can't you also use serrated brushes?

Serrated brushes just mean the conection between the comutator and the electricity is better creating less sparks and losing less energy, they dont need to be broken in otheriese u would have to wear away the whole serated edge surely??

[rigrishracer22B]

is there any thing you can do to a motor that will make it go faster and run and last longer thanks in advance

[kurrz]

Supposedly serrated brushes take care of the break in process. According to RCCA.

[geezer]

I thought the serrated edges helped the brushes break in faster? The serrated part only last a couple batteries. When the serrated edges are gone, are the brushes worn out? I guess I'll have to do some more research.

[Boostin_69]

we need pics LOL
and some vids

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

No the brushes anrent worn out when the seration goes, it does help with break in but it also improves connection as the gap in the seration clears the dust off the brushes keeping the carbon in perfect contact with the commutator. Obv this doesnt last for long but it should improve the motor for a while even though it isnt especially noticable. Change the plugs between the motor and the esc to ws deans plugs, that will also improve connection but make sure you dont get confused with the battery and esc plugs!!!!

[geezer]

I changed to deans plugs after the first melt down. The stock plugs that came with the truck didn't last long. My truck doesn't slow down now until the battery dumps. Deans are a must have item. Another thing to keep your motor performing at it's best are brush springs. These get hot and weaken. Lots of things to keep track of. Thats what makes this sport so interesting.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

You replaced the motor connectors to ws deans?? Thats gotta go well, have ya changed the battery ones aswell or have i mis understood. If you have changed both connections, have ya ever mixed them uo and connected the battery straight to the motor.

[rigrishracer22B]

are the deans connectors better than the tamiya


ps check this out
http://allspringfieldr.10.forumer.c...8b1b4aa4e11b2d1

[Boostin_69]

yeh deans are WAAAYY better than the tamiya crap.
BTW ur link doeasnt work

[guver]

is there any thing you can do to a motor that will make it go faster and run and last longer thanks in advance

How about bearings or an angle end bell kit.

[rigrishracer22B]

yeh deans are WAAAYY better than the tamiya crap.
BTW ur link doeasnt work
my bad

http://allspringfieldr.10.forumer.com/

[riverat1540]

is there any thing you can do to a motor that will make it go faster and run and last longer thanks in advance

The only thing i can think of is going to a 7 cell battery if your using a 6. that will give you more power and extended run time.

[rigrishracer22B]

thanks but a 7 cell wont fit in my evader is there any way i can get a 7 cell to fit

[guver]

7 cells fit in the evaders, be careful of the two guides for the battery brace as they will cut the shrink wrap when removeing it. The foam spacer needs to be shortened.

[riverat1540]

thanks but a 7 cell wont fit in my evader is there any way i can get a 7 cell to fit

yea it will fit if u take out the foam block under the esc but u have to get a flat 7cell not the one with the hump or maybe a hump with the 7th cell up and to the side might work but im not sure on that

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I just dont use a battery strap, problem solved. Strong elastic bands keep weight down and u can have a 7 cell battery with the seventh cell on top with an elastic band going over it. Should work fine.

[geezer]

Sorry to be so far behind. But this is how I do my battery and motor connections. No more hot connectors.

[geezer]

The other ends.

[riverat1540]

i need to upgrade my setup im running a completely stock evader st pro and its got the orion 15turn and an itellispeed 12t i like this truck but i get bored of this this because its too slow, i want to go to 7 cells so thats one thing i know, id like to trinity d6 13t and im hoping it will haul with a little gearing does anyone have any suggestions on a gearing ratio that will give me good speed but still plenty of pep w/ the d6. also im wondering what batteries to use for longer run time and plenty of power, i know lipo is prolly the best for this but i dont have that kind of funds right now maybe later? so basically asking for a good setup one of u guys are runnning w/ stock esc.

[geezer]

I never ran 7 cells, so can't tell you what kind of performance gain you will get. You will have the weight of the extra cell??? I do know that the orion 15t motor isn't very fast. All we have ran are the 27t stock motors (p2k2, Epic Binary 27t,) and 19t motors Colbalt,Chameleon, and P-94. These have good power and good run time. As for batteries, there's new ones coming out about every month. Who knows what'
s the best. I have 3000 and GP 3700 and they work for me. If things work out I want to try the new lipo's. Haven't decided which ones yet. Need more info before I spend that much money. Going to a forward only ESC will help performance.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Ahh, the trinity cobalt is a very good motor with the triple 12. Those silver brushes are alot better than standard brushes. As ive already said araoun 600 times, get rid of the battery strap for running 7 cells with one on top!!! I like the look of those lipos but i still cant find a six cell lipo charger for the uk, only the american ones with a different voltage. Where can i get aluminium. Does anyone know where i can get an aluminium spur gear for the evader shpped to england??? Standard or anything that will help go a little faster, can ya also add the appropriate pinion gear cos i dont know bout these things.

[guest2001619]

ok guys ive looked and cant find anything spacific. i put 3300 in my evader st and they bearly fit and its hard to get them to fit. its the battery strap im having probs with. thanx guys

[T/Losi]

I purchased a Evader ST for my step son and the motor seems to run very hot. I ended up taking a quick 5 second video of it (.9mb) below. Do you think it is stuffed?
http://www.geocities.com/athowells/100_0679.MOV

Cheers

[pudder]

supersonicst- there are no aluminum spurs made for a direct fit that I know of and besides you really don't need one as long as you can mesh gears fine.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

lol that could be why i need one, and that ive gone through several gear covers as they all get ripped off in mud races, so i gety sand, mud and stones there, never good.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I purchased a Evader ST for my step son and the motor seems to run very hot. I ended up taking a quick 5 second video of it (.9mb) below. Do you think it is stuffed?
http://www.geocities.com/athowells/100_0679.MOV

Cheers

Now that motor looks like its totally had it, im guessing its a photon speed motor so it cant have bad electrics, u just gonna have to get a new motor. I cant see how any problem with brushes could cause that.

[T/Losi]

Yeah, it is the standard one. Thanks for that SUPERSONIC ST, ill just get a new motor

Cheers

[geezer]

I purchased a Evader ST for my step son and the motor seems to run very hot. I ended up taking a quick 5 second video of it (.9mb) below. Do you think it is stuffed?
http://www.geocities.com/athowells/100_0679.MOV

Cheers
I watched that a dozen times and it looks like the brush spring gets hot??? Was the brush screw that fastens the brush to the hood tight? And it also looks like the post that the motor wire is soldered to is touching the spring post. If the electric is passing though the spring it would weaken as it got hot and not push the brush tight to the com.Thats one hot motor. Let us know what you find wrong so we can avoid burning up a good motor.

[popin wheelies]

Hi
New to the board, been into RC for about 15years. Question for you guys. I have an evader pro with an Dura trax streak ESC and a 13T speed gem motor and i also have an tamiya stadium blitzer with the same ESC but with a 13T venom motor. Now for some reason I don't know why, my cheap stadium blitzer will smoke my evader pro. I can't figure it out. Both have ball bearings. The evader seems to have more friction in the tranny, could that be it. I have swapped just about everything between them. The blitzer has a 18T pinion and my evader has a 20T. Any thoughts?

[geezer]

Did you swap motors? Might be a dif there. What's the final gearing in the transmissions. Should use the same tooth count on pinion and spur for comparison. If everything is the same the blitzer kicks.

[riverat1540]

does anyone have a fast setup on their evader if so id like to hear motor turns gearing and batteries your using im looking for ideas before dropping the cash. i want to run 7 cells and i would like a decent run time also thanks in advance

[guver]

for 7 cells run a max of 12-14 turn motor. gear high for speed and gear low for runtime and snappy acceleration. It's a trade-off.

[RCnick]

I have a 12x2 with a 7 cell 1900 mah battery on my evader. For gearing i have 20 tooth pinion and 88 tooth spur. It does nice wheelies and good top end.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I always stayed away from the under 15 turns cos i never think they would have good torque, maybe ill go for a 12 turn with a few winds, that shoul equal out the torque, i dont have a clue about gearing.

[T/Losi]

Im going to get a new motor for my step sons evader. It has the standard ESC in it which I heard can take up to 19 turn motors. The standard motor is a 19T but I am thinking of maybe going 21 turn (venom motor) as it is his first r/c car. Would u notice much difference between a 21t and a 19t?

Cheers

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I doubt he will notice much of a difference, bit more torque, should still be fast enough esoecially sine its only changing by one turn from the photon to the venom, in fact its made better so it might run a little faster if anything. Another few things, I cant change the rear toe in and its so annoying and im guessing new bearings are due costhe back wheels both wobble to a point where the whole car shakes on tarmac so i have to keep it at low speed.

[BLRustler]

The Evader Pro ARR is a great stadium truck. I have a LRP AI ESC .... no turn limit.
A Orion Revolution 8 x 1 motor. 15/88 gearing and SMC Intellect 3800 batts. Deans plug on Batts to speed control. Soldered leads on motor to a power pole connector
back to the speed control. 30 wt oil in the shocks all the way around with white springs. This thing is fast and agile.The rear end stays planted with the bowtie tires.
For 99.99 at tower for the rolling chassis ALREADY BUILT!!! Just add your ESC, Motor
Batts and steering servo. Servo horns for Air, Futaba, Hitech are included.
Tip: The identifing marks are inside the hole that fits onto the servo.
Tip: When you try to put in your servo take off the front shock tower.
Then the plate over the servo

over the servo

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

What is everyone bothered about most??? Aesthetics or performance??? Think i might start concentrating on mnaking it look good, looking a bit rugged at the moment. Otherwise i have been looking at that novak brushless 8.5 set, so much to chose from, its either that, looks or investing in that new traxxas t maxx 3.3 which has caught my eye.

[geezer]

PERFORMANCE, if your out front you always look good. No such thing as an ugly winner, well maybe!!! That T-max does look interesting.

[I Trust Tyler]

i still have a stock painted body, but i run a novak 5800 with cells and it flies, it flies like a fast ugly grasshopper with wheels. Aesthetics would be my pick, trust me my truck is ugly.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Actually i mostly said the t maxx cos it has all da hp ups, but ive chosen da e maxx, electric = quiet, same reason for havin evader electric, im not bothered with the speed of the nitro evader, i dont have enough space to use it.

[generis]

I just put M2 gladiator pro-line tires on the back, and although they are a bit taller than the stock 'vader tires, they are a whole lot better!! very nice tire, very soft!, and good all around performance, I put them on some new yellow 'vader wheels. they are soft, but don't seem to wear too fast.. I had to reset up the rear suspension, because the tires like to slide sideways a bit in hard cornering, but I got that fixed by increasing shock action and reducing body roll. can't wait to race this spring!..

[Boostin_69]

hey here are some pics of my Evader from a few days ago

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrqluo

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrqrdk

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrqsgj

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrqxlh

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrr1o4

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrr4lg

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=rrrqf7

Some of them are blurry so bare with me

[Helgaiden]

Quick question: for stock offroad racing what is a good gearing using a monster stock?

[geezer]

Gearing depends on the size of the track and how it's layed out. If your motor is getting hot go smaller pinion.

[generis]

I am using a chameleon pro, 19 single armature, and stock 24 deg timing as per the chameleon can, and associated laydown serrated brushes, trinity medium springs, and 88-18 gearing on 6 cells with a duratrax 8t esc, and nothing gets hot, has really hard launch from the line, and great speed. I get a solid 18 minutes run on a 3000 nickel metal hydride batt on a soft dirt track with proline ribs in front and gladiators in back. I have tried 23 tooth, 22, 20, 19, 18, 17, 16 pinions on the same track, and the 18 gives the best of all things and not much motor heat. nearly no batt heat at all. in contrast, the 20 tooth gave alot of motor heat, moderate batt heat, and cut the run time in HALF to 9 min, and then a 20 minute cool down to boot. Try things; I think the 20 was no faster than the 18 because the motor couldn't turn it. The stock gearing in the 'vader was way to high for sure.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Grrr, is there anywhere i can get rear alluminium a arms for the evader. I just broke it on the back. Actually snapped upwards which is strange. I think i might get aluminium fron ones aswell, it all seems to be falling apart. Gotta get new bearings and those darn shafts have broken again. There has gotta be a better pair to use.

[philp37]

Duratrax and Golden Horizons both make aluminum for the front of evaders, but rear a-arms are only available for the front of the evader. Adding that much unsprung weight is not prudent anyway. I dont know if you have pro already, but if you do not, try the graphite ones for the evader pro. I have broken nearly every plastic part on the evaders, with the exception of a-arms.

[I Trust Tyler]

actually you could convert to nitro rear a arms with the alum. nitro susp. plate tower has it....maybe a little drilling but not much if any.

and there graphite is easy to break too.

[philp37]

Do you know of anyone who has done this?

[I Trust Tyler]

im gonna try it out, within the next few weeks once i decide to order it.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Yeah maybe an idea, dont want to add too much weight though, a little isnt too bad, i could do with more traction anyway. And yeah the pieces were graphite, i've also broken about everything on the truck that it started with, in fact, out of all the main pieces (everything minus the screw and bolts) only 8 small pieces remain from the real truck. Thats the four hub carriers, the two parts of the servo brace, the front body mount and the motor heat sink!!!

[generis]

My 'vader is a non-graphite jobby, and I have never had a front or rear arm broken, some of my arms have really large gashes out of them from hard hits on concrete and such, but none breaking. I think the standard arms are a little more bendable than the graphite parts in general.. maybe switch out for standard arms instead of graphite....
CHris

[philp37]

Sounds like graphite is the way to go for hub carriers, as I have broken a few of the rear plastic ones. Trust Tyler, keep us posted on your rear plate and a-arm nitro changeover attempts.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Do you think sticking a nail into where the spring pin is meant to be on the dog bone should hold for a while?? Im racing an e-zilla, a rustler, a RC10B3 and A Dogfighter2 on friday and i dont want to lose through a busted shaft, one side of the spring pin has broken off. Its gonna be a bad idea to leave it. :( Well i dunno, ive managed to use up all the spare shafts and the rc shop doesnt sell evader parts. (England sucks for that).

[pudder]

It will probably break really easily but I guess anythings worth trying once :)

[geezer]

SUPERSONIC ST, Try using a body clip cut alittle long and bend the ends over so it can't fall out. These are made of some tough stuff and will last quite a while. I've done this a couple times to my evader st.

[Helgaiden]

yeah my friend's pin broke too, we were gonna put a body clip in it like that but our other friend's xxx-t pin worked perfect.

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

I actually used what i had with me last year at the races which was some solder wire, i snaped about 15cm off, stuck it through the hole and wraped it round. Lasted about 3 hours but that was good f