Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0 [Archive] - Page 8

SUPERSONIC_ST

05-02-2006, 04:28 AM

All the standard tools really, i just got a plier kit, hex keys, spanner kit and screwdrivers. For spares i just have some spare shafts, a spur gear, gear cover (i seem to lose those alot), I've never seen anything else get broken on track racing. Hub carriers are always good to keep as most people know, they're always breakin. Apart from that, i can't think of more spares that are totally neccessary. I can't help you on the tool box though.

mikeyman

05-02-2006, 05:21 AM

Would this be a good start?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXUC47&P=V

Should I get needle-nose pliers, standard pliers and side-bent pliers?

SUPERSONIC_ST

05-04-2006, 06:04 PM

Ive only found use for the needle nose and the normal pliers. The other one is useless to me.

medicineman

05-17-2006, 09:46 AM

Supersonic,

we (my son and I) race at Jackson RC in NJ. We broke a front suspension arm by getting stuck on the side of a jump at full speed and then last week he got rear-ended at the end of the race and shattered the rear suspension arm. Both were covered under the graphite replacement warranty. I would carry spares of both front and rear arms. The other problem we had was a stripped idler gear in the transition, mine has been through many races and I have had no problem with the idler gear. Comes from landing the jumps with the motor at full. The 15 turn that comes with the kit is OK, but I would recommend buying a rebuildable from Trinity, you’ll see a difference.

I have had a problem with stripped gears in my steering servo, I would recommend getting a servo with metal gears or carrying spares (their about 9 bucks from Tower Hobbies).

An assortment of gears (pinion and spur) and a few battery packs and you should be set to be very competitive. I think the Evaders are as good as or better than the TC4 and much less expensive.

Good luck and let me know if you need more info.

Bob

philp37

05-18-2006, 01:32 AM

Evaders equipped similarly hold their own with xxxt and t4. In my opinion. They are the best value in the RC world.

SUPERSONIC_ST

05-22-2006, 09:43 AM

Hmm my car got run over by a bike and the front suspension went so yer i guess, and ive even broken an aerial on the transmitter!!

I Trust Tyler

05-23-2006, 09:18 PM

Evaders equipped similarly hold their own with xxxt and t4. In my opinion. They are the best value in the RC world.
Definitly a good deal, but Duratrax graphite is as useful as the ford pinto's gas tank.

medicineman

05-25-2006, 08:06 AM

I got mine from Tower Hobbies. The parts are all available from them, even the graphite ones. The A-arms (front and rear) have broken when I have been hit by other cars, but the graphite replacement guarantee has replaced every one, no questions asked. It's definitely worth going with the ST pro version.

The Orion 15 turn that comes with the pro is OK, but a Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro Motor works a lot better. I would also recommend a different gear ratio. On our track the 20 tooth pinion with the 86 tooth spur seems to give the best combination of speed and acceleration. Don't settle for what comes with the truck. Spur and pinion gears are cheap and will give you higher performance than just changing motors.

^j!nx^

05-30-2006, 05:59 PM

Well today I pulled the ST out of the closet today. I havent ran anyhting with 4 wheels in a year sence I got into r/c bikes. Some time over the past year something has happened to the stock pinion gear. I just cant seem to find it. So I slaped on some 64pitch gearing. Bolted in the novak SS5800, charged up the IB3800s and away I went.

Put it on the ground blip the trigger and up came the front wheels. I dont ever remember this truck picking up the front wheels before. So my gearing is deffinralty not near stock.

So here is my problem. After running for like 15 minutes the ESC thermaly shut down. Not this is the first time my novak ss5800 has ever thermaled in the 3 years I have owned it.

Do I need to regear it? smaller pinion? Smaller spur? I am no gearing pro, so if some one could just point me in the right direction.

Keep in mind all I have extra is a slew of 64pitch spurs and pinions. So any gearing suggestions please give them in 64p

thanks in advance!

guver

05-30-2006, 06:41 PM

Increase spur or decrease pinion to gear down and make it run cooler.

Your wheelieing could be a stuck slipper clutch from setting.?

medicineman

05-30-2006, 08:56 PM

what motor are you running? If it's been sitting for a year you might just have some dirt and crud in the bearings and carbon on the commutator. All of these will add to the draw on the batteries and speed controller. The stock pinion with the orion 15 turn was a 13 tooth.

rigrishracer22B

05-31-2006, 01:39 AM

I just bought a Hi Tech steel geard steering servo for the evader and the stock servo arm isint the right size is there another servo arm to fit the servo or do I have to return the servo :confused: Thanks (p.s) if anyone has any Questions they need to ask about setting there evader up P.M me or just ask on the forum. :D

medicineman

05-31-2006, 08:47 AM

mine came with a bag of 4 arms for the different servos. Check the Towers website I think their sold in the part listing. You may need to make a new arm. I have the standard servos and have stripped 4 gear set so far this race season. Let me know how the metal gear set works, I was considering changing my setup.

rigrishracer22B

05-31-2006, 10:54 AM

my brother put a steel gear servo in his and it worked better then what the plastic geard servo did it had quicker reaction time and better range of motion

rigrishracer22B

05-31-2006, 03:22 PM

anybody know if losi wheels will fit an evader st (not pro evader st)

geezer

06-02-2006, 07:21 AM

rigrishracer22B You need DTXC 8873 servo arm set. $2.69 TH. This set comes with 3 different servo arms. They are marked on the inside of the splined hole for witch servo the arm fits. We have used losi wheels, front and rear for three years now. They are very tough and will out last the tires. The evader wheels are brittle and crack and chip.

rigrishracer22B

06-13-2006, 04:40 PM

thanks

marinearmenibro

06-17-2006, 12:04 PM

I was wondering what would be a good motor to upgrade from the stock one. My truck is stock except for a robinson racing 19 tooth pinion and dirt hawg tires all around with RPM calwz rims, if that helps any. Thanks in advance. Also what is the standard shock oil in the evader.

RCnick

06-18-2006, 05:16 PM

a good motor is the orion revolution motor. i got that in my evader. i think the stock shock oil is 30 wt.

marinearmenibro

06-18-2006, 07:27 PM

what ESC are you running?

Elisiah

06-19-2006, 08:22 AM

Is it worth the time and money to try to lower the evader st so i can run it mainly for fun on the street.

RCnick

06-19-2006, 07:52 PM

duratrax intellispeed 8t limit w/ reverse

marinearmenibro

06-22-2006, 06:00 PM

My brother had an old speed gems 17 turn motor laying around and i was going to put it into my evader would i have to change pinions. I am running a 19 tooth right now and also my esc seems to be running hot did i under gear it?

vaderbxman

06-22-2006, 08:18 PM

does anyone know if thisbody will fit with minimal modifications?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRB9&P=7

thanks in advance :)

marinearmenibro

06-22-2006, 08:28 PM

does anyone know if thisbody will fit with minimal modifications?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRB9&P=7

thanks in advance :)

just go here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMD0&P=7) and compare lenght width etc. It looks like the gt one is a little short and not as long as the standard evder body. Hope it helps.

vaderbxman

06-22-2006, 10:00 PM

i compared thw two, and the're nearly identical!!! :D I'll probably get it when I get an st pro in about a month

marinearmenibro

06-24-2006, 03:10 PM

can someone give me a list of steel spur gears that will work on the evader. :confused:
Thanks in advance. :)

guver

06-24-2006, 03:51 PM

A steel spur (if one is made) may not work with a metal (steel) pinion, it will make shavings and radio interference.

SUPERSONIC_ST

06-27-2006, 03:31 PM

I had this conversation about steel spur gears with someone the other week, there really is no point, it will wear faster than a plastic spur gear. I've already learnt this!

SUPERSONIC_ST

06-27-2006, 03:42 PM

does anyone know if thisbody will fit with minimal modifications?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRB9&P=7

thanks in advance :)

It doesnt have the front hump things for the top of the shock tower! You'll have to cut quite a bit away or put extra body mounts on the front and back to lift it off the tower. But that will either make the body a bit ugly or leave you with a cm+ of space between the chassis and the bottom of the body.

rigrishracer22B

06-27-2006, 06:03 PM

finally fixed the evader :D (it set in pieces for half the winter) after I got it fixed the idler gear in my stampede completly rounded off now its in pieces :mad: thanks geezer thats what i needed

SUPERSONIC_ST

06-28-2006, 08:27 AM

I really need to get mine fixed, The shafts are rusted in place. Got about 260 dollars to spend on it over the next few months so i better get it back into form!

vaderbxman

06-28-2006, 12:31 PM

yeah, i haven't noticed that. does anyone else know of a good looking body to get instead?

rigrishracer22B

06-28-2006, 12:49 PM

what kinda racin do you do or

rigrishracer22B

06-28-2006, 10:59 PM

any body know of a defect in the evader st trannys

rigrishracer22B

06-28-2006, 11:02 PM

A steel spur (if one is made) may not work with a metal (steel) pinion, it will make shavings and radio interference.
and plus the gears get very sharp :eek:

generis

06-29-2006, 06:05 AM

the stock ball diff will blow up around 50 runs it seems (tight track). This is the only problem I have ever had with my vader st, and it can be fixed with the duratrax carbide ball diff rebuild kit(under $10). Never ever had a problem with anything in hundreds of runs. (except cracking rims, as just said a few posts ago) I love this thing....

rigrishracer22B

06-29-2006, 12:47 PM

thanks the only problems i really had was eating up servos (now i have steel gears) :D wheels cracking and shootingpins out of the axels :mad:

RCnick

06-29-2006, 04:07 PM

any body know of a defect in the evader st trannys

the idler gear will strip if you have a strong motor but you can buy an aluminum one.

marinearmenibro

06-29-2006, 05:29 PM

rigrishracer22B

06-29-2006, 06:45 PM

can you use a spur gear off of a losi or an associated and put on the evader

and yes here it is
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPH1&P=7

marinearmenibro

06-29-2006, 10:12 PM

can you use a spur gear off of a losi or an associated and put on the evader

and yes here it is
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPH1&P=7

ok thanks, this may sound like a stupid question but where exactly do you find those "balls" in the transmission or wherever they might be.
thanks in advance.

rigrishracer22B

07-01-2006, 12:27 AM

it isint a stupid question cause i dont really know where they are but i think there inside the main gear (the diff) someone please correct me if wrong

SUPERSONIC_ST

07-01-2006, 10:16 PM

thanks the only problems i really had was eating up servos (now i have steel gears) :D wheels cracking and shootingpins out of the axels :mad:

Yup i have exactly the same problem! The spring pins shoot out the shafts and leave u with no drive. Comes with the high powered motors! Only problem now is water must of got into the bearings cos on one side, the shaft is rusted to the bearings and nothing will budge! Think i might have to replace the hub carrier, the bearings and the shaft now. Any suggestions for getting it loose?

bradh

07-02-2006, 09:48 AM

hi just wondering if there is any other otions for the metal diff gear on the b2 for the evader as noone sells them anymore and i cant find any on ebay thanks

party_wagon

07-02-2006, 03:48 PM

thanks the only problems i really had was eating up servos (now i have steel gears) :D wheels cracking and shootingpins out of the axels :mad:
Place a piece of suran wrap over the axle and the pins, then put the tire on and tighten down the nut. This will keep the axle pins in place.

marinearmenibro

07-02-2006, 04:30 PM

pyro18t

07-02-2006, 05:11 PM

I bought the deans plugs and instead of the ESC plugg having to plug into the battery the battery plug actually plugs into the ESC. Is this a problem? And now I have to change the plugs on my charger and dis-charger.

HUH?!?!

If your asking if you have to change the plugs on your charger because you have DEANS on you batteries, then yes. If your asking if you have to change the plugs on your batteries because you have DEANS on your ESC plug going into the batt. then yes. IF you have DEANS on your motor, then no.

Hope that clears some of that up

Jay

bradh

07-02-2006, 05:17 PM

I bought the deans plugs and instead of the ESC plugg having to plug into the battery the battery plug actually plugs into the ESC. Is this a problem? And now I have to change the plugs on my charger and dis-charger.
the way i understodd that backwards comment was that he now has the male connector on the battery rather than the esc and it will be fine aslong as you dont plug the battery into where the motor is ment to go and you either need to make a tamiya to deans converter or change the plugs on everything

pyro18t

07-02-2006, 07:35 PM

just change them on everything, they are SO much more efficent and run cooler, I always change everything with deans ultras on all of my cars, with the exception of my charger which I just make an adapter incase on of my friends needs it they can still use their Tamiya plugs

Jay

bradh

07-03-2006, 03:15 AM

id change it on the charger to and make the adapter in reverse so that your friends can use the adapter to charge there stuff rather than u but thats just me i guess

bakabaka

07-03-2006, 05:09 AM

I bought the deans plugs and instead of the ESC plugg having to plug into the battery the battery plug actually plugs into the ESC. Is this a problem? And now I have to change the plugs on my charger and dis-charger.

I'd change the plugs to go the other way to be safe. You're just asking for a short circuit, and maybe even a fire or explosion, by having two live terminals sticking out where they can be easily crossed. Two batteries accidentally having their terminals touch could be very bad. Two ESCs having their disconnected terminals touch shouldn't do much, at worst a capacitor would discharge.

Have fun! :)

marinearmenibro

07-03-2006, 06:29 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I have decided to just to change my charger and dis-charger so they both have female ends. Sorry about the post if it was backwards to anybody but my charger and dis-charger have male plugs on the ends and after I soldered the batts and ESC I look at the chrger and realize that i did everything backwards. I already drove cuz i had a chrged battery and everything worked out fine. Hope this clears up anybodies questions.

guver

07-04-2006, 03:16 AM

The batt should have the end that will not short out.

bradh

07-04-2006, 03:21 AM

the rule l ernt on deans is the female gives the male recieves kinda opersite to life i guess :P

rigrishracer22B

07-05-2006, 02:52 PM

Yup i have exactly the same problem! The spring pins shoot out the shafts and leave u with no drive. Comes with the high powered motors! Only problem now is water must of got into the bearings cos on one side, the shaft is rusted to the bearings and nothing will budge! Think i might have to replace the hub carrier, the bearings and the shaft now. Any suggestions for getting it loose?
Wd40 and alot of it

pyro18t

07-05-2006, 04:21 PM

Wd40 and alot of it

I think liquid wrench works better for getting rid of rust, WD-40 works great at keeping it away. Just my .02

Jay

wooliebeast2006

07-05-2006, 09:39 PM

Nitro Evader on ebay LOOK....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fast-Nitro-evader-St-with-hop-ups_W0QQitemZ120005382483QQihZ002QQcategoryZ19168Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Fraz

07-06-2006, 10:08 AM

bradh

07-06-2006, 11:30 AM

welocome man i been here for bout a week :P

pyro18t

07-06-2006, 04:40 PM

Hello all,
I'm a newbie just saying hello, I just got a Ev St Pro a couple weeks ago and have since gotten hooked on R/C. I just ordered a Novak ss5800 for the Evader. But I will be lurking around asking dumb newbie questions.

If your a noob, I would hold off on the BL motor for a bit untill you master your car. When you go faster things tend to break ALOT more.

Jay

Fraz

07-07-2006, 07:59 AM

I was planning on running the stock motor until I get some of the metal transmisson up grades and maybe a DX2. But no I'm not dropping in the brushless right away :D

eVaDeR85

07-07-2006, 12:05 PM

You could run the SS5800 in profile 3-4 which is the sportsman mode. It has limited acceleration and top speed. Plus I wouldnt worry too much about the metal tranny upgrades, the only thing that duratrax makes for a direct fit is a metal idler gear. And the only metal diff gear that will fit is the diff for the old associated B2-T2 which you can find pretty easily but you have to track down diff rings, diff balls, and bearings. As long as you keep the slipper clutch set kinda loose you shouldnt have anything to worry about as far as the tranny goes. Ive had the 5800 in my evader now for a few weeks and has about 15 runs on it and so far havent had any problems. Just be sensible with your throttle finger and try not to run into anything till you get used to the way it handles.

Fraz

07-07-2006, 06:34 PM

You could run the SS5800 in profile 3-4 which is the sportsman mode. Just be sensible with your throttle finger and try not to run into anything till you get used to the way it handles.

Thanks for the idea on that sportsman mode thing :D . But the throttle finger thing and not hitting stuff thing is easier said than done :D :rolleyes:

4 stroken ron

07-07-2006, 08:54 PM

And the only metal diff gear that will fit is the diff for the old associated B2-T2 which you can find pretty easily

I would like to find one of these. Where is it easy to find?
Ron

Fraz

07-07-2006, 09:42 PM

Try this

http://www.1hg.com/home/Indexnf.htm

Only I can't figure out how to order it ???

RCnick

07-07-2006, 09:51 PM

stormerhobbies carries hg parts

4 stroken ron

07-08-2006, 12:31 AM

Try this

http://www.1hg.com/home/Indexnf.htm

Only I can't figure out how to order it ???

Hmmmmmm You're right. Nice picture, no way to order.
And I could not even find HG on Stormerhobbies
Well thanks for nothing RCnick and Fraz. :D :D :confused: :confused:
Ron

Fraz

07-08-2006, 07:58 AM

Your welcome Ron lol, but I have heard that the metal diff gear isn't all it's cracked up to be anyway, I'm not getting one anyway.

RCnick

07-08-2006, 03:14 PM

try hammad guhman under the search. thats what hg stands for. sorry i forgot to mention that. btw i dont know if the spelling is correct.

4 stroken ron

07-08-2006, 06:17 PM

It is Hammad Ghuman. And he does make a lot of pieces for different cars. And his stuff is on Stormerhobbies. But not the alloy B2 diff gear.
Maybe he used to make it but discontinued it? Anyway I am getting along OK now with the nylon B2 diff gear in my 27 turn Evader, now that I learned to adjust the slipper.
Thanks for the link.
Ron

rigrishracer22B

07-11-2006, 05:18 PM

any body have any ideas on temporary fixes for the evader (no particulr part) just curious thanks

generis

07-12-2006, 07:52 AM

Save the dogbone for later. I put a small piece of lockwire around the dogbone in a loop and the other end of the wire in a loop around the lower susp arm in the rear and when the spring pin busts out of the drive axle, which it does, the dogbone doesn't fly out to the moon, because you have the trigger pulled all the way, of course. Change the drive pin, and keep on trucking.
Save the front end for later. I made a thin lexan bumper for my vader and using a lighter bent it just under the main chassis under the steering servo. I used the original bumper 4 screws and added 2 more just in front of the servo to hold the back of the lexan bumper/skidplate, which also extends out front and a bit wider, and with this bumper on there, I have never busted anything in the nose since. not even when I nailed a e-maxx headon multiple times at a combined 60 MPH. this is the toughest bumper alive.
Save the owner. Buy wheels for a Losi XXXT. the 'vader wheels crack and are really cheap or hard or something. They suck. The Losi wheels don't break or crack on the edges ever.
Chris

bradh

07-12-2006, 08:04 AM

this is wat i have as a bumper not real pretty but protects everything up front and comes with a lifetime garentee works great as i hit everything http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RC-bumper-TBR-Racer-Duratrax-Evader-ST-ST-Pro_W0QQitemZ6057988029QQihZ009QQcategoryZ34063QQt cZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

oIIIIIo

07-12-2006, 12:04 PM

Buy wheels for a Losi XXXT. the 'vader wheels crack and are really cheap or hard or something. They suck. The Losi wheels don't break or crack on the edges ever.
Chris

I have read this somewhere else so I just picked up a set of wheels for a Losi XXX-T for my Evader ST. The front's fit perfectly, but the offset on the rears is about 1/4" to 3/8" deeper making my track width in the rear significantly narrower. Is there a Losi or other good quality rear wheel that has a similar offset to the Evader ST?

Thanks.

rigrishracer22B

07-12-2006, 03:37 PM

no not to my knowledge associated wheels wont fit you dont have the wheels wrong (back on front front on back)do you

4 stroken ron

07-12-2006, 04:02 PM

If you put "new" Duratrak wheels in water and boil them for 10 to 15 minutes, then let then cool naturally, It will "stress relieve" them and they will be much stronger.
Ron

rigrishracer22B

07-12-2006, 04:11 PM

my wheels just warped and bent

chadori rc'er

07-13-2006, 06:35 AM

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a second hand standard evader. It has the stock gearing in it and an orion rush 19t motor. I am using a 1900 stick pack which takes in over 2000mah. I just wanted to know if my motor was stuffed cause it doesnt even really do a skid on gravel when it takes off. I am looking at buying a new motor like a 21 turn or something around that mark. Also is there meant to be a delay when u put the truck into reverse. I have the esc that came with it.

Thankyou

Fraz

07-13-2006, 08:19 AM

The delay is set on the Esc, you can take off the delay but I kinda like having it there, did you get the instructions with it ?

rigrishracer22B

07-13-2006, 02:15 PM

i think that delay is actually the brake

chadori rc'er

07-13-2006, 05:38 PM

Hi,
Yes i got instructions with it but i think i will just leave it as the brake. Does it sound like i need a new motor if it barely does a skid on gravel when it takes off?

Thanks

oIIIIIo

07-13-2006, 09:27 PM

no not to my knowledge associated wheels wont fit you dont have the wheels wrong (back on front front on back)do you

No, they are not on backwards. They can only fit one way. They just don't have as much offset as the Evader wheels. These are the ones I bought:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA7155

Is there a different Losi rear wheel that has more offset?

If you put "new" Duratrak wheels in water and boil them for 10 to 15 minutes, then let then cool naturally, It will "stress relieve" them and they will be much stronger.
Ron

Don't try this with Evader wheels - the plastic will melt and bend leaving the wheel hopelessly distorted. I tried boiling off a set of tires just this week and ruined my wheels within 5 minutes.

guver

07-13-2006, 09:32 PM

It will not work with acetone either. The dtx wheels will melt into goo. They must be a plastic of sorts instead of nylon?

Cybertron

07-14-2006, 11:41 PM

Hey guys... I'm new to being a member, but not this forum or the evader, I've read every page of this forum and decided to join in.

I have an evader. It's been in peices for the last 4 months and I kinda lost interest when I tore the front end off it one day. But now I've got a bunch of shiny new parts coming and I'll be running it again in a few days...

And for the wheels... wear them down until they're bald and use an Exacto, that's what I did.

bradh

07-14-2006, 11:47 PM

how did u manage to snap the front end off and welcome to the site

Cybertron

07-14-2006, 11:54 PM

well, thanks for the warm welcome. I HAD a totally stock evader, except for the servo (thing died on first day) and I was just bashing around with it and I tried to come up a driveway at full speed and go onto the sidewalk, the back tire hit some sand, lost grip, and the truck smash into the guy's brick flowerbed... the hinge that held the front bulkhead to the chassis split and a bunch of other stuff smashed..

I'll post some pics If I can

Cybertron

07-14-2006, 11:59 PM

I love my POV battery, don't worry I have another.

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:04 AM

ouch i got my car 2nd hand recently and i run into walls all the time and luckily havnt broken it but it has a lil piece of alloy at the front of the pins to strengthen it and i also got myself a metal rear chasis plate off egay because i broke one of them straight away but with the metal one it seems almost indestructable

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 12:09 AM

I know the evader inside out, so you were talking about the hinge pin brace, I haven't broken that yet, and I got a bunch of stuff on the way, including a bunch of deans connectors for my POV battery.

Here is proof that an evader can be divided....lol

lol.....egay.....

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:14 AM

lol that looks exspensive

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:15 AM

u cant get a alloy chassis for the electric evader can u

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 12:20 AM

not that I've seen, all the stuff i bought off tower costed me 90USD

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:23 AM

lol i paid less than that for my roller

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:25 AM

o and im in australia

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:26 AM

whats so good bout that battery neways?

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 12:27 AM

I got mine as an RTR, first day, kiled servo, week after smoked spur, week after that killed my idler crashing into that flowerbed.

Needless to say I was dissappointed, though it was my fault, but i lost interest in it for a while.

chadori rc'er

07-15-2006, 01:16 AM

What do you guys think about the Tamiya RZ 23t motor. Would it go well in my evader. What gearing would be appropriate for it? I dont want it getting to hot.

Thanks

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 01:26 AM

depends on which evader you have, I have st rtr, since the stocker that comes with it is 20t, and this is 23, I might go up a tooth or 2 on the pinion.

rigrishracer22B

07-15-2006, 02:10 AM

i wish they made 1 turn motors that would sweet

bradh

07-15-2006, 10:10 AM

anyone got any ideas on how to make these cars turn under power?

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 10:12 AM

man a 1 turn would take so long to wind up...

guver

07-15-2006, 12:13 PM

anyone got any ideas on how to make these cars turn under power?

Loosen the diff, move batt forward, lower front end, raise rear end, lengthen wheelbase, new front tires. Still will get lots of push under power though.

Racer's will know some other stuff as well.

bradh

07-15-2006, 12:16 PM

thanks man

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 07:30 PM

trytires more suited to the conditions you run in...

bradh

07-15-2006, 10:00 PM

main thing im running on is grass and the road any ideas on good front n rear tyre setup for that any ideas on where i can get either a pic of or buy rear toe in braces asw i just shattered my rear toe in blocks

Cybertron

07-15-2006, 11:21 PM

towerhobbies.com has every evader part you want

bradh

07-16-2006, 12:30 AM

it isnt an evader part it is after market

Cybertron

07-16-2006, 01:07 AM

which makes it better.

bradh

07-16-2006, 01:10 AM

no i mean the part i need isnt available from th

bradh

07-16-2006, 04:01 AM

ok now i snapped my rear chassis plate that was plastic aswell so now i really need rear toe in braces and blocks

guver

07-16-2006, 10:12 AM

You can use the rear plate and rear pivots from a pro, but those pivots are weaker than the stock rear plate.

Cybertron

07-16-2006, 04:44 PM

how did you manage that? I never broke that bit.....yet

bradh

07-16-2006, 05:11 PM

big jump rear landing = break oops

Cybertron

07-16-2006, 10:34 PM

lol, here's my evader...

bradh

07-17-2006, 03:21 AM

u win lol id suggest u get one of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RC-bumper-TBR-Racer-Duratrax-Evader-ST-ST-Pro_W0QQitemZ6057988029QQihZ009QQcategoryZ34063QQt cZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

chadori rc'er

07-17-2006, 05:37 AM

I am wanting to buy some upgrades for my truck but am not sure what to get. Its a Standard evader so im thinking some graphite arms, etc? Has anyone tried the xxxt arms on there evader and do they work better? Also does the top shaft and gear in the gearbox come in aluminium/steel or whatever it is as stock standard because mine is?

Also anther Question when my evader reaches about 20-30 meters away from me it just stops and then i have to walk up to it till it reaches signal again. I say its something to do with the radio but has this happened to anyone else? It happens more after about 4 mins of running it.

Thanks

bradh

07-17-2006, 07:23 AM

id sugest the metal rear chasis for sure if u plan on doing big jumps there like 11 usd on ebay

Cybertron

07-17-2006, 03:31 PM

I have the stock radio and it goes fairly far for me.

Try replacing transmitter batteries?

chadori rc'er

07-17-2006, 05:35 PM

Ok i will put a fresh bach in and see how it goes.

Has anyone tried the xxxt arms on their evader?

What hop ups should i get if i plan on racing?

Thanks

Cybertron

07-17-2006, 10:30 PM

If you plan on racing, at least the front knuckle arms in aluminum if not the whole front end. I personally wouldn't get anything graphite because it's easily broken and costs more than plastic.

Get a good motor, Venom fireballs have always worked for me, get better tires than the stock junk. And a good battery, a better steering servo isn't a bad idea (I stripped my stock one 10 min after the truck came out of the box).

But that's only what I would get before I raced my Evader, you might not need all of that...

I replace parts as they break, usually if it breaks, it gets an aluminum replacement, but that's just me...

rigrishracer22B

07-18-2006, 04:57 PM

i would have to dissagree on the venom fireball motors i mean they are good motors but the method motors by team orion are a little faster

rigrishracer22B

07-18-2006, 04:59 PM

here they are
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=method&FVPROFIL=++

rigrishracer22B

07-18-2006, 05:01 PM

and here are the venom fireball motors

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=venom&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

and batts

Cybertron

07-18-2006, 05:43 PM

Yeah, but I like them mostly because they're cheap and mine doesn't eat through brushes.

rigrishracer22B

07-18-2006, 07:55 PM

same with me

Cybertron

07-19-2006, 04:50 PM

The photon motor eats brushes like no tomorrow...

rigrishracer22B

07-19-2006, 09:26 PM

I have no brushes left in it

guver

07-20-2006, 12:02 PM

It is converted to "brushless" if it has no brushes.

vaderbxman

07-20-2006, 02:47 PM

i've got the 19 turn method r motor in mine, and love it.

rigrishracer22B

07-21-2006, 08:40 AM

i've got the 19 turn method r motor in mine, and love it.

I just have a method 17turn in mine if i got one with the adjustable timing i would screw it up

rigrishracer22B

07-21-2006, 08:41 AM

It is converted to "brushless" if it has no brushes.
the motor ate the brushes up

guver

07-21-2006, 11:48 AM

I have lots of old ones that have been "converted" some day I will turn comm and add brushes, lol

chadori rc'er

07-21-2006, 06:04 PM

I got a new motor for mine. A Tamiya RZ just for bashing. My evader is way faster :cool: than it was with my old motor the rush 19t because i think it was stuffed.

But now i think i am gonna start breaking parts. :eek: lol

vaderbxman

07-21-2006, 08:24 PM

I got the method r because it turns slightly more RPM, but cost the same, and I could remove the endbell.

oIIIIIo

07-24-2006, 03:09 PM

No, they are not on backwards. They can only fit one way. They just don't have as much offset as the Evader wheels. These are the ones I bought:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA7155

Is there a different Losi rear wheel that has more offset?

I found a decent replacement rear wheel for the Evader ST - the Proline Velocity 2.2 for the Associated T2/T3 (part #2636). It fits perfectly unlike the Losi XXX-T.

RControl Freak

07-25-2006, 06:14 PM

Anyone have an opinion on the Evader ST Pro RTR? I'm debating between that and a Losi XXX-T Sport 2. For the price difference..... I'm beginning to lean towards the Duratrax, but since I don't know much about Duratrax, I was wondering if you could give me some helpful info. Thanks! :D

vaderbxman

07-25-2006, 08:01 PM

i'm getting the st pro in about 3 weeks. I think parts will be easier to come by for the st pro, but if your looking to go club racing, you might want to consider the losi.

Razor_Racer

07-25-2006, 08:21 PM

Hey guys, im new here. Im getting an evader in two weeks. Its a regualar one and lightly used, only like 4 times or so. comes as a roller with XRS, I plan on putting a s3003 sevo I have, a associated xp2 radio system, and an ancient epic stock motor. Anceint as in 7 years. I have some cheesy 1200mah nicds also 7 years old but still work. Hope I have fun when it gets here!

chadori rc'er

07-28-2006, 03:51 AM

I have been in the proccess of making a metal front bumper to replace my broken plastic one. It didnt take to long to make maybe 30 min but i will try and post pics when i have it on my truck. I also made an battery strap.

Cybertron

07-29-2006, 11:28 PM

Waaahooooooooo!!!!!!!!1

I FINALLY got my evader back together after its incident involving top speed and a brick wall. I got some aluminum parts for it so it looks a lot better too, aluminum idler gear thank god. Although I don't know if I set the diff right but I ran about 7 packs and it seemed fine.

Lol, couldn't find my battery strap, so every time I hit a jump, the battery bails, but who cares, it's just a 1000 MAH
Nicad thing that I had to tape together cause it kept falling apart, and I do have another one, I just don't want it thrown around so I use the crappy one...

Sorry for the long post...

Cybertron

07-30-2006, 04:36 PM

well, it was short lived, I just busted my front shock tower.
So, back to waiting for parts...

vaderbxman

07-30-2006, 05:13 PM

^^haha, ,I know what you mean. my evader lasted 7 minutes before a landing on it's left front wheel snapped the suspension tower. thank god for the warranty.

rigrishracer22B

07-30-2006, 05:37 PM

Buy The Graphite Parts Or Is That What Ur Breaking

vaderbxman

07-30-2006, 07:25 PM

I had a BX pro, and I broke a graphite part. amazingly, I haven't broken anything else sincee then. mabye I just got a bad part or something.

philp37

07-31-2006, 02:04 AM

I have read this somewhere else so I just picked up a set of wheels for a Losi XXX-T for my Evader ST. The front's fit perfectly, but the offset on the rears is about 1/4" to 3/8" deeper making my track width in the rear significantly narrower. Is there a Losi or other good quality rear wheel that has a similar offset to the Evader ST?

I have red wheels from an xxxt Matt Francis, and the dish is exactly the same as Duratrax, and leaves me with identical wheel width. I seen the ones that you bought and they should fit. I do know that wheels from a xxxt-2 probably will not achieve the same wheel base, as the xxxt-2 now has a wider a-arm than the xxxt or the evader.

philp37

07-31-2006, 02:25 AM

Cybertron

07-31-2006, 04:19 AM

A dremel with a cut-off bit has solved all my wheel issues

And no, I'm not breaking graphite, but the next shock tower I get for it will be aluminum, either that or make one...

And for the new dude, buy a hitec metal gear servo, and the aluminum idler gear, trust me you're gonna need it.

And don't bother running a dust cover over your spur, mine does a better job of keeping dust in than out.

rigrishracer22B

07-31-2006, 04:39 PM

and the stock spur covers break too easy

vaderbxman

07-31-2006, 08:54 PM

true, i've been through 2 covers. :eek:

Cybertron

08-01-2006, 12:23 AM

I don't use it any more, waste of money.

So what wheels wil fit this truck other than the crappy stock ones?

I've just been exactoing tires off the stockers but they're so beaten now, I want new rims.

rigrishracer22B

08-01-2006, 01:30 PM

xxx-t team losi wheels fit good on mine

Killerush

08-01-2006, 01:37 PM

I just got one of these in trade and the wheels were beat up pretty bad. I took a spare set of HPI RS4MT hexes and wheels off my shelf and they fit perfect. For the front I used standard size Rustler wheels.

Cybertron

08-01-2006, 01:49 PM

thanks, I know that this came up before but I didn't feel like looking through 20 pages to find it.

Cybertron

08-01-2006, 10:00 PM

Ok, My truck is up and running and I'm finding that I want more speed.

Right now it's on stock gearing, what gearing should I use to get some more speed but not sacrifice too much acceleration?

rigrishracer22B

08-02-2006, 01:21 PM

go up about 3or 4 teeth in the pinion but just that little bit will kill the acceleration and what motor are you running

Cybertron

08-02-2006, 05:15 PM

lol right now I am beating on the sh*tty stocker but normally I have a venom fireball 19t in it.

And will these wheels fit?http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEW44&P=M

4 stroken ron

08-02-2006, 09:35 PM

I think this link might be helpful to some of you.
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/trkwhels.htm
Ron

Cybertron

08-02-2006, 11:21 PM

thanks, works for me......

Wahoo.......I'm getting a t-maxx by december!

RControl Freak

08-03-2006, 08:34 AM

thanks, works for me......

Wahoo.......I'm getting a t-maxx by december!

What type? I have a the 2.5 (The old edition, w/o the gray parts), and it's good , but you would do well to consider another truck, because for what u get, the T-MAXX simply isn't worth 400 +. (At least thats what I think!)
Consider the Losi Aftershock, or maybe even the LST 2. The LST 2 includes a $200 computer synthesized radio, the XS3, and dual steering servos, and the Aftershock has the XR2i. (But no reverse)

Tell me how the 3.3 is if you get it!

vaderbxman

08-04-2006, 05:18 PM

the t-maxx might be a little expensive, but your LHS will probably have alot more parts for your t-maxx. the losi or the LS2 might be less expensive, but parts will be harder to come by.

RControl Freak

08-05-2006, 11:43 AM

the t-maxx might be a little expensive, but your LHS will probably have alot more parts for your t-maxx. the losi or the LS2 might be less expensive, but parts will be harder to come by.

Uhh... quick correction: The Aftershock is the same price as the T-MAXX 2.5, but cheaper than the 3.3 (even though it has more power than the 3.3), but the LST2 is nearly 650 bucks. It's easy to see what made it cost that, considering a 200 buck radio comes with it, and it has a more powerful big block engine. Still, 650 bucks ain't cheap! :eek:

vaderbxman

08-05-2006, 01:24 PM

i'm going by my LHS prices, so it'll vary from person to person. :p

RControl Freak

08-06-2006, 09:31 AM

Huh. I wish.

vaderbxman

08-06-2006, 10:00 AM

RControl Freak

08-06-2006, 11:50 AM

and what exactly is that supposed to mean?? :confused:
anywho, i'm getting the ST pro in about a week, so i'm all hyped up. can anyone suggest a god reliable basic esc that i could use to upgrade my sprint esc with.

Take a look at these:

Dynamite Tazer- it has a 15 turn limit

Duratrax Intellispeed 12T

LRP Ai- 15 turn limit (It's the same one that's in the Associated T4RS

vaderbxman

08-06-2006, 12:14 PM

isn't the intellispeed esc the same one that will be comming in my new st pro? if it is, i might get it for my bx pro kit.

guver

08-06-2006, 12:20 PM

Yes.

RControl Freak

08-06-2006, 12:21 PM

isn't the intellispeed esc the same one that will be comming in my new st pro? if it is, i might get it for my bx pro kit.

I thought you were upgrading from just a ST....

Anyway, here's a few more pretty good ESC's:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHSV8&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNG5&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLHE2&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYN6&P=7

I thought about the ST Pro, but I was going to get the RTR. I've heard not so good things about it, in terms of durability. Now I'm leaning towards the T4RS or the XXX-T

vaderbxman

08-06-2006, 12:37 PM

yeah, i'm going to probably swap ut the motor for a team orion method r motor of similar turns. i have a 19 turn in my bx right now, and i'm glad i spent only 16 bucks to get it.

rigrishracer22B

08-06-2006, 08:54 PM

the method motors are bad fast at least for our track i just got done racing finished 5th out of 12 cars

vaderbxman

08-07-2006, 09:00 AM

awesome!! how many turns does it have, and how fast does it go in MPH?

rsilvers

08-07-2006, 02:18 PM

So I ordered an Evader ST Pro RTR. I am new to this, and now I see that the T4 won some '2005 reader's choice awards' and stuff. Before you make fun of me for getting an RTR, I can build stuff. I have put together and flown three helicopters.

When I read old posts, I see that most people like the T4 better than the Evader, but none of them are referring to the Evader Pro with the graphite chassis and upgraded parts, clutch, etc.

1. Once you factor in the latest Evader graphite Pro, is it worse, equal, or better than the T4 RTR?

2. If I want to upgrade to a brushless motor and controller, what is the best match? I have no problem spending the money on the motor, but I will admit I am bummed about having to also buy a $150 controller and scrap the included controller.

vaderbxman

08-07-2006, 03:17 PM

rigrishracer22B

08-08-2006, 02:25 PM

awesome!! how many turns does it have, and how fast does it go in MPH?
17 turns and about 20 -25 mph i run on a dirt oval though

vaderbxman

08-08-2006, 04:49 PM

cool, my 19 turn does about 22. i'll defineatlyhave to consider this motor for my up-comming evader st pro.http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJBY4&P=7

vaderbxman

08-11-2006, 07:22 PM

here's a quick question. can you use ball bearings on the shock bushings instead of the plastic ones that it comes with? I am forever taking some sandpaper to the bushings to get the shocks to move freely, and I know if that a bearing of the proper size would fix that permenatly, but is their one that will fit the bill?

and, the price for the st pro just roceted up another 100 dollars!!! http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFGE6**&P=0

medicineman

08-11-2006, 08:42 PM

I run a trinity 12 turn (Cobalt 2) and can beat most if not all the nitro guys. Our track runs all the 1/10 scale STs together. The evader Pro has an ESC that can handle down to 12 turns. We also run an a 19 turn class at a different track, but the 12 T geared at 18 to 88 (pinion to spur) really flies!!!

RCnick

08-11-2006, 09:59 PM

my rear shocks keep coming off at the bottom and i keep losing the little balls on them. what can i do to keep them from coming off?

RControl Freak

08-12-2006, 10:08 AM

i think the st pro will be about equal with the T4. yes the suspension geometry is better on the T4, but it all falls in the hands of the driver. my evader bx is not as advanced as the other b4 at my track, but i can beat him if i focus and drive a clean race.

Hey, how much are you going to pay and where are you going to buy the ST Pro? It's cheapest on Tower Hobbies. (I looked at my hobby shop, and their's was 250 compared to Tower's 200!)

vaderbxman

08-12-2006, 10:11 AM

i'm getting it off of tower hobbies, but i'm glad i've already order it, because liik at the price now. it's almost 300 dollars, and it's not the ultimate combo either!!

Rtsbasic

08-13-2006, 03:57 PM

Anyone know if you can buy alloy rear arms for the Evader ST? I've snapped too many "stress tech" ones to take them seriously anymore. Not had good luck with the graphite ones either. I can find alloys for the nitro but not electric, and they won't cross over nicely from the look of it.

Cheers.

vaderbxman

08-13-2006, 04:12 PM

no. you can buy the aluminum front arms, but the rear arms are shaped differently at the connection point. at least your arms are covered with the gurantee, so you don't have to keep buying arms for it.

RControl Freak

08-13-2006, 04:19 PM

Hey, guess what I just ordered.... a brand new Evader BX Pro! I can't wait to get it. I got that and 2 NiMH batteries along with a digital peak charger! :D

Rtsbasic

08-13-2006, 04:21 PM

:( Might have to custom make some lexan ones then.

If they're covered under the gaurntee thats great, but still, breaking an arm everytime I do a bad landing from a big jump gets old real quick. Plus the UK distributor doesn't deal with stress tech warranty's.

RControl Freak

08-13-2006, 04:22 PM

Besides, a lesson I learned: with my T-MAXX: I bought a steel spur gear to keep from stripping them, and stripped a clutch bell instead! I haven't stripped another plastic one yet! Upgrade one thing, and something more expensive will break! :p

vaderbxman

08-13-2006, 05:49 PM

yep, that's the way it always is. hey, how do you like you t-maxx? i might be getting an e-maxx eventually, and I want to know how they handle.

Rtsbasic

08-13-2006, 06:52 PM

That way of thinking is good for a lot of things. I prefer to have stronger parts that can give way (flex) if necessary, and come away with no damage. Thats why I like RPM parts, and lexan parts. Impact absorbing without transferring the force onto another weaker part.

btw, vaderbxman, if you get an Emaxx you'll enjoy it. For bashing its a good vehicle, but you do have to do a few hopups to it to make it more durable. Some RPM wishbones, and Tmaxx 3.3 bulks and you'll be okay. Handling is very "soft", but fun offroad, espically if you up the power. Will roll over on grippy surfaces very easily out the box though.

RControl Freak

08-13-2006, 08:10 PM

yep, that's the way it always is. hey, how do you like you t-maxx? i might be getting an e-maxx eventually, and I want to know how they handle.

It's not bad at all, I have the 2.5, and it really moves. However, if you are going to be upgrading something, it's going to be the radio and servos. The stock radio is OK to start, but the stock steering servo simply doesn't cut it. As for the E-MAXX, I've seen them go before, and they also move, but the ESC has a funny braking system, though it does work. The shift-on-the-fly transmisson is neat, and I guess the claimed 80 oz/in steering servo is okay on the E-MAXX, but it simply isn't strong enough for the T-MAXX. The suspension and shocks are pretty good, but want to strongly consider getting the titanium suspension pins. I've broken 2 sets. (That could have something to do with my bad habit of making 40 mph runs into the garage into the garage door though....) Besides, I'd wait if I were you, since Traxxas has really been going crazy recently on updating their rides, and I have a sneaking suspicion that the E-MAXX is the next lucky one. Besides, imagine that with twin 12T motors....... :eek:

vaderbxman

08-13-2006, 09:07 PM

RControl Freak

08-13-2006, 10:11 PM

well, I wouln't exactly be getting one for the next 9 months, :rolleyes: not until after school ends, :( but I thank you both very much for the advice. :) I saw a t-maxx in my LHS, and got hooked on the size of the tires and suspension. :eek: I think it'l be a nice upgrade from a stadium truck. :cool: my dream R/c car is a jammin' truggy, but i'm not ready to go nitro, so I wanted the best electric monster truck I could find and I want to get good at it before considering nitro. I've only been in this hobby since december.

i'll shop around some stores, read up some more on the e-maxx fourm, and try to go to the weekend races at my track (which was recently redone, sweet!!) So, some titanium hingepins, some RPM arms, and look into stiffingin up the suspension. Thanks alot guys, I appreciate this alot, because this saves me the hassle of guesswork, and trial and error. :)

Hey, no problem, if you have any other questions, ask them! :D

Yeah, that Jammin stuff is awesome, the truggy won the Truck of the Year Award, but it ain't cheap. As for going nitro, let me tell you that I started out with the T-MAXX with just the recommendations of a buddy, and it wasn't that bad! Chances are very good that you may know more about this RC stuff than me, because I'm still new, having just got the T-MAXX last year. As for my dream vehicle, I want the new Team Associated RC10GT2 kit, but once again, the setup I want would run about 700 bucks.
(I'll get there, in time, but as for now.....) The only thing you MUST know about nitro is that it is crucial that you perform the afterun precedure and all that good stuff. But, anyway, good luck on getting that truggy! :D

(Also, I'm going the opposite direction, I thought that a buggy or stadium truck would be a good change from a monster truck. Don't get me wrong, their a heck of a lot of fun, until you take it in the mud and have to clean it! :eek: )

vaderbxman

08-14-2006, 05:32 PM

I probably wouln't get that truggy for a long time, so I have time to think about it. i like bashing my bx around my track, and I thought the e-maxx would be alot more fun. my dad was into planes for a while, so he might know a thing or 2 about nitro and stuff. Thanks a bunch!

RControl Freak

08-14-2006, 10:23 PM

Now that would be cool! Still, my parents aren't thrilled about RC cars because they think it's a waste of money. So when I come and ask them for 2 grand for a plane kit...... :eek:

rigrishracer22B

08-14-2006, 11:43 PM

my evader caught on fire sunday :eek: :eek: :eek: the motor started smoking but they run faster when theyre on fire untill it started melting the winds :mad:

EvaderRacer76

08-15-2006, 01:15 AM

lol nice job

chadori rc'er

08-15-2006, 05:43 AM

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 12:04 PM

I just bought an Evader BX Pro.... I hope those graphite parts aren't too weak! Still, it was a good deal for what it came with!

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 12:07 PM

my evader caught on fire sunday :eek: :eek: :eek: the motor started smoking but they run faster when theyre on fire untill it started melting the winds :mad:

I'll have to keep that in mind, "when you need a speed boost in a race, catch your engine on fire!" :D

rigrishracer22B

08-15-2006, 12:25 PM

rigrishracer22B- Sounds Nasty

Went over a jump today with my evader and landed on the front right wheel. Destroyed the bearing and ripped apart the inner bit of the wheel where the bearing sits. Its a shame cause it was a new set of wheels to.
man that sucks and RControl Freak i wouldent recommend it but if you are in diar need of a win take a flame thrower to it :D

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 12:59 PM

Hey, there ain't a rule that says you can't! :D

vaderbxman

08-15-2006, 07:29 PM

I had a tamiya connector shark battery that adhered itself to the plastic trach bag I keep my evader in when i'm not using it. I don't blame it though, because I ran it twice back to back (with cooling)

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 09:21 PM

One of the first things I'm going to install when I get my BX are Deans connectors. They have less resistance and look freakin awsome! :D

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 09:31 PM

Hey, take a look at the new threads I posted: The Duratrax Evader BX
Pro in the Electric forum and the Wild T-MAXX Upgrades in the Monster Truck Forum!

vaderbxman

08-15-2006, 10:07 PM

will do!!! tomorow, though, because i'm tired.

rigrishracer22B

08-15-2006, 10:14 PM

One of the first things I'm going to install when I get my BX are Deans connectors. They have less resistance and look freakin awsome! :D
i wish they would drop the price down on the deans connectors

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 11:09 PM

yeah, that would be nice

RControl Freak

08-15-2006, 11:10 PM

will do!!! tomorow, though, because i'm tired.

same here

tomorrow, then

philp37

08-16-2006, 01:26 AM

Hey fellow Vaderites. What is, or where can I find the spec for the length of antenna cable on a 72mhz AM receiver on my evader.

guver

08-16-2006, 11:45 AM

20 "

philp37

08-16-2006, 03:25 PM

20 "
thanks!.... Is it the same for 27mhz am receivers as well?

vaderbxman

08-16-2006, 09:53 PM

guver

08-16-2006, 09:57 PM

thanks!.... Is it the same for 27mhz am receivers as well?

Yes, 27 and 75 AM is both 20 "

RControl Freak

08-16-2006, 10:29 PM

I got my evader st pro today, and it blows me away!!! it lept forward more urgently than any evader i've seen, and i've seen 4 different ones. I love the esc, and the tires are grippy, really grippy!!! I can't wait to take it to the track later this week.

Hey, I got my Evader BX Pro today! Sweet!!! :D

It doesn't have that Havok motor, but rather this one came stock:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAK2&P=7

It's an awesome motor, though!

Still, I haven't broken anything yet :D

(Keyword, YET!)

vaderbxman

08-17-2006, 05:39 PM

yeah, I noticed that when I got it out of the packaging. the servo saver was also messed up pretty good too, so I had to position it correctly. the motor sounds pretty sweet too. I also got rid of reverse because it throws itse;f into reverse entirely too quickly. other than that, a flawless first run. I'm going to the track soon, so i'm gonna have somee fun.

RControl Freak

08-17-2006, 10:03 PM

Yeah, it's a big kick-up over the regular Evader BX! :D

rigrishracer22B

08-18-2006, 07:28 PM

what kind of electronic speed controlsdo you all run in your evaders

vaderbxman

08-18-2006, 09:00 PM

we've got the duratrax intellispeed 12T ESC in our evaders.

vaderbxman

08-23-2006, 05:43 PM

Well, my st Pro is resiliant, because I must have done at least 6 front-bumper endos, and landing jumps on one wheel, and still I haven't broken anything. I love that mod-motor. My dad has the regular ST with the photon motor, and when we get on the straightaways, my motor flexes it's muscles. His car san still drive better than me (because he can drive better than me, :p ) I'll get better at my ST Pro over time, but for now, it's loads of fun to go at it with my dad's ST. I'm glad I got one! :)

RControl Freak

08-24-2006, 01:06 PM

I love that Futaba pistol! Finally, a remote that I won't have to upgrade for a while! Still, I did manage to break one of the mounts of the rear suspension arms. So I took it out, brought out the CA glue, and then switched the hex screw to the side where it wasn't broke. Other than that, and a little problem with my rear CVD slipping out, It works flawlessly!!!
(Still, sometimes I wonder if a perfect vehicle with no bugs would get boring after a while!! :D )

Hey, did your slipper clutch ever make a strange chirping sound? I thought it was the ball diff, but then I adjusted the slipper, and now its gone!

mikeconway

08-24-2006, 03:46 PM

my evader got totally kick i went to a fast slide and i got hit it crack my whole car it fell apart :mad: :(

vaderbxman

08-24-2006, 04:56 PM

that chrping sound might have been your diff needing adjustment. but the weird thing is that my evader bx kit, my dad's ST, and my st pro have all been driven long and hard, but still haven't required that adjusting. My first evader st needed that adjustment. I'm going back to the track in a couple of days, so i'm going to make some adjustments to help it, like loosen-up the slipper clutch so it doesn't spin out so much, and raising the whole car up some, because it bottoms out too much. finally, I'm going to take it easy on the gas, so I wouln't spin out on every 4th turn like last time.

vaderbxman

08-27-2006, 01:02 PM

RControl Freak

08-31-2006, 04:45 PM

oIIIIIo

09-01-2006, 08:06 AM

I have red wheels from an xxxt Matt Francis, and the dish is exactly the same as Duratrax, and leaves me with identical wheel width. I seen the ones that you bought and they should fit. I do know that wheels from a xxxt-2 probably will not achieve the same wheel base, as the xxxt-2 now has a wider a-arm than the xxxt or the evader.

These are the ones I bought... LOSA7155 (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA7155)

The description is rear truck wheels for XXX-T, XXX-NT. The parts list on the Losi site shows this as the correct part # for the XXX-T MF. I don't know these would be different from yours.

RControl Freak

09-01-2006, 03:27 PM

well, i had a blast, and I didn't break anything. although me and my dad have the same problem where our cars dig in if we land on our noses. so I went looking around and found this. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=7 will it fit? and does anyone know of an alternative antenna holder, because I went through one.

If you're refferring to the antenna tube, I went through one as well, and I picked up one at my LHS by dubro, it's an awsome shade of blue

Also, this past week, I drove my T-MAXX into the bay in Long Island, NY. No Joke! (It survived!!!) :eek:

vaderbxman

09-01-2006, 05:03 PM

how did u retrieve it? did you jump in, or was it near the coast.

I bought these yokomo ones from tower, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLB00&P=7 and other that the fact that I had to sand the end so it would fit better, it is great!

RControl Freak

09-02-2006, 10:17 AM

luckily for me, the water was very shallow, so it wasn't in there for any longer than 10 seconds. It did freak the hell out of me though! :D

vaderbxman

09-02-2006, 07:48 PM

it would freak me too. well, the only injuries today (not sustained by me) were a broken servo, and a cracked rim. I fixed them both for him, and he was on his way. well, until tomorrow that is.

My brother has a bad problem of overheating his vendetta, so we're trying to come up with ways of fixing that, and my problem is still of digging into the ground after landing. I tried going at half throttle up the ramp, then gunning it at the end, but nearly nothing I try works. soemtimes I will get lucky by landing squarley on all fours, and sometimes I will land on 2, but I rarely do an endo. I also changed out the headlights to some ones that my dad made that look like the new dodge charger lights. They look cool.

vaderbxman

09-03-2006, 02:05 PM

well, I broke my first part today, and it's the most broken part of the car. the servo gears. I just turned the gears around, and it works fine now, but I don't like how this is something i'm going to have a lot fo spares to fix. i'm going to lok into metal gears for my servo, if they make them. I'm not looking to go buy one of those hitec servos that cost an arm and a leg, but I don't want this to be an ongoing problem with my car.

here's a random sentence. My car is a girl, and her name is Eva.

rush freak

09-03-2006, 10:11 PM

my evader has a 10 turn motor spektrum radio and a durtrax esc that goes down to a 8 turn

im going to install a 8 turn drag motor and see what happens

this is my 5 evader st that i have owened and i must say they are the best

vaderbxman

09-05-2006, 05:09 PM

The evader was my 2nd car. (my first being an HPI sprint that didn't run for any longer than 5 minutes. what a piece of crap!) I think that the evader has some potential if duratrax revises it like they did with the stampede/rustler, and the suspension design is good. If they started to sponsor some car entries, they would sell like crazy. Duratrax has a good car, they just don't know it yet.

vaderbxman

09-07-2006, 05:13 PM

sorry for the double posting, but I got that losi bumper iin the mail today, threw it onto my evader, and it fit like a charm. I haven't been able to race it yet, but I think it will fix my digging-in issue that i've had.

also, does anyone know of some quick fixes for a brand-new nitro evader ST? it's my dad's present.

RCnick

09-09-2006, 11:44 PM

i have a evader for sale if anyone wants it. just go to the f/s forum

elecracr

09-10-2006, 01:12 PM

What are you suggesting Duratrax do to update like the rustler and stampede. I think that is a stupid statement being that the evader can handle alot of power right out of the box. I am running about the most powerful 6-7 cell setup that you can run in my evader bx pro. Before that I had a normal bx and that thing could handle almost anything I threw at it. My bx has just a wide front bumper, upgraded servo, the stock radio from my first one. Then I am running a brushless system, genesis sport with a 6T brushless motor. This setup blows all the brushed setups I have tried out of the water. The only part that I think I may have to fix anytime soon would be rebuild the differential and put in the aluminum idler... I will probobly get an aluminum differential too so that my gear box is indestructible.

RControl Freak

09-10-2006, 05:52 PM

I took my evader bx pro to an on-road race today... The only other people in the race were my friend and his father. I was in front... until I got too much speed in a corner, and hit the wall, and kind of broke my front wheel carrier. It was awsome to watch: I hit it, and then my front wheel goes rolling away. Luckily, I was able to fix it with CA glue, then run again, but then my friend kind of knocked me into the wall, so I was out of commisson again! Still, once I get those aluminum ones, I'm gonna kick his tail! (I've got the 15T team orion formula, and he's got a 17T Venom fireball!)

vaderbxman

09-10-2006, 05:53 PM

I'm suggesting, that Duratrax do to their line that Associated has done to their T's and B's. look, they have made 4 versions of it, and the evader has remained basicly the same. i know that these things are pretty robust, and come with the warranty, but Duratrax would sell truckloads of these things if they would just put some effort into sponsoring some guys and tooling around with the evaders to make them better. I suggest throwing that crap motor out the window and going for a Orion or similar comprable motor. also having a better servo saver because the one in mine has eatten 2 sets of gears since I pulled it out of the box.

to change the subject, I broke the left rear hub carrier landing from a ramp I took earlier today. Nothing serious, buit I have to send it in for a new one. In the mean time, I pulled the hub off of my evader BX Pro kit and will use that for a little while.

RControl Freak

09-10-2006, 06:40 PM

Duratrax is a good company, with good products, but they need to sponser racers, and gain some track prestige! Someday, they could be up there with Associated and Losi! :D

elecracr

09-11-2006, 12:11 PM

Yea, I agree.
However I think that their starting electronics are as good as everyone elses. I do see what you are saying though, as the Evader is almost a replica of the older Losi cars. I do agree with you if you are saying they should work on making possibly a newer racing line of trucks and buggies. In my oppinion the advantage of the evader is you can bash it every day and then take it to the track whenever you want also. I still would think it would be cool if duratrax would possibly think up something to perform with the top racing vehicles of today.

You all may want to try just a better servo such as a high speed hitec or something as you will be amazed with how fast they are comparably speaking. As for the hub carriers, I used to just use two part epoxy on the part as a temporary fix ussually untill I can get the part.

medicineman

09-11-2006, 01:30 PM

After one season of racing with the ST pro i have broken the same parts on a routine basis. I would recommend to onebody racing these that they get front and rear A-arms, hub carriers and rear shock tower. This will cover 95% of all broken things and you will have spared until DuraTrax can send replacements (they have replaced everything I have broken this year, without question).

rigrishracer22B

09-11-2006, 04:10 PM

How many of you guys and gals have novak rooster speed controls I just put one in my evaderand it will fly But the one i had in it before was the POS traxxas xl1 esc they are nothing but junk :mad:

vaderbxman

09-11-2006, 05:28 PM

well, I suggest either the novak for club racing and the duratrax intellispeed for bashing. hey medicineman, how were you doing against the competition, what kind of cars were you racing against, and did you make any mods to make it faster.

elecracr

09-11-2006, 06:08 PM

I think that the intelispeed esc's are fine for most people racing or bashing. The only problem with the rooster esc only has a 15t limit if i remember correctly.
The biggest thing I would have to suggest for racing is just to talk to racers around the track and figure out what tires everyone is running succesfully. Then fine tune your suspension to what seems to work for you.

RControl Freak

09-11-2006, 09:02 PM

I'm probally going to get the aluminum hub carriers for my BX, and then send in the graphite one for a replacement under the stress-tech plan! :D

Does anyone know if the aluminum idler gear for the nitro evader will work for the electric?

(As for the electronics, I see brushless in my BX's future! :D )

elecracr

09-12-2006, 01:26 AM

I dont think the idler will work. Just get the correct electric one as when i tried the differential from the nitro it didnt work it was just barely off.

geezer

09-12-2006, 11:43 AM

Yes, the aluminum idler fits. The diff gear will not work from the nitro. Previous post have covered all parts to bullet proof the electric evader's tranny.

RControl Freak

09-12-2006, 04:15 PM