Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[vaderbxman]

alright, but do you know of any tuning tricks that my dad could use? this is the first nitro engine he's had to run for about 10 years.

[Boostin_69]

Hey everybody I have a evader st and im lookin for a new motor since the magnets in the old one shattered on a bad concrete landing

I want a good 19 turn, i just use this car to bash on a budget
The LRP GT3 Turbo 19x2 looks like a nice package http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLRE0&P=7

OR the more expensive Associated V10 spec 4 19x2 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPBX0&P=7 BTW i wont mind payin the extra IF some1 has had good experiences with it or heard good things about it.

If there is any reason why i shouldnt buy any of them or specifically 1 tell me. I need this info within a week so if iu hav any suggestions or anything that can help me i would lik 2 hear it ( if there are motors that u kno of then i would lik 2 kno aswell. )

Thanks alot evrybody !!

there the links should be fixed ( the assosiated doesnt hav a pic or info just price)

[vaderbxman]

I have the 19 turn team orion method R motor in my first evader, and it works like a charm. You could probably push your luck and try a lower turn motor to use. also, your links do not work.

[elecracr]

What do you do more, if you bash i would suggest getting a normal machine wound motor with adjustable timing. If you are really looking for performance you should try a fixed 24degree timing motor like the chameleon because those motors are more of racing motors.

[vaderbxman]

true, i've heard loads of the chameleon motor proforming really well. so, you have 2 choices. I'm glad that we could be of service.

[elecracr]

I finally got my bx running good today. I set up my car with a reciever pack and it got rid of all the glitching problems i have had. I put my dirt hawgs from my old evader on there for bashing around the house. I have put a few packs through it today and already broke my hub and front shock tower in one wreck after catching over 3-4 feet of air at full speed with my 6T brushless haha. I was kinda surprised that was all that was broken, but I have a spare parts car so I am still in bussiness with plastic parts while i send away to get the new graphite ones. Im thinking of looking into getting some new 7 or 8 cell packs to try running with the brushless system. 8 cells will be pushing my motor with the rpm limit on the bearings but i think it will be ok.

[RControl Freak]

Hey, what brushless system do you have?

[vaderbxman]

wow, so how do you fit 8 cells into the evader? I know it will do 7, but how about 8?

[elecracr]

I have the Genesis Pro esc from finedesign and a feiago 6T motor. It flies on 6 cells but I think im getting an 8T motor so I can run more cells. Im thinking that i will custom build my packs with 6 cells flat next to each other then the two other cells on the side so that they will go on each side of the battery tie down... I really wanna go lipo but that will probobly not happen.
I really think that this brushless system was great for the money and is really plenty of power for the evader.

[vaderbxman]

awesome! If you can, send us some pics please!

I found these print-outs online that perfectly fit the front of my evader ST. Check it out! http://www.fireballgraphix.com/vinyl/catalog/index.php/cPath/173_2_140?osCsid=eb923ccfa7cccde0b48f986805968ca9 just copy, paste, and print them out, and put some adhesive on the back, and viola! es fantastique! I used the charger version.

[elecracr]

I will try to see if I can get some pics up, the chassis is kinda busy with wires and such being i am running a receiver pack on one side, the reciever on the other, then the esc and capacitator on the rear shock tower. Right now I can pull wheelies with it set up with the fast setting of acceleration. I havent even really run it with the fastest acceleration setting being it just spins out every time you peg it. The brakes on the brushless definately take some getting used to being they are way stronger than what im used to but there is little or no drag brakes. Iv got to say my favorite part of having the brushless is not having to constantly fiddle and rebuild a motor. Also, my speed control is waterproof so today when i got it splashed in a puddle i just drove straight out of it. The controller got water directly on it and I just kept going like normal...
I think i will probobly have to put the alloy idler in soon because the brushless power is pretty strong for the plastic one.

[Boostin_69]

thanks for the info guys but i cant get a chameleon as my crappy LHS doesnt stock it and i cant buy off the net. so which one would be the best out of the 2 i listed ??

[elecracr]

Im sure either motor will be ok. I would assume that the spec motor is comparable with the chamelion.

[medicineman]

I like the Chameleon best, but I'm a trinity fan. I have the Evader Pro and I run a 12 turn cobalt 2 in mine with no problems (stock from the factory). We actually compete against the Nitros at our track (they run all 1/10 scale together, ST;buggy; 2wd and 4wd electric or nitro) and we can get a full 10 minutes from a 3800 battery pack if you get the gearing correct (suggested starting point would be 16:88). The electrics usually win!!!

[elecracr]

Yea, a 10 minute heat is actually starting to be realistic with new batteries. My brushless setup stomps many nitros at the track because it has soo much power right from the start.

[elecracr]

Well, i have also broken the piece that holds the rear suspension arm to the alluminum rear skid plate. I was able to repair it for now but will need to get a new part before i drive it too hard. My brushless system has already destroyed the stock idler gear yesterday. I have rebuilt that transmission so many times it takes no time at all.

[vaderbxman]

jeez. get the aluminum idler gear, and you'll probably want to get a couple of sets of those parts that the rear A-arms connect to, because i've already broken one myself. on a lighter note, my dad unpacked his nitro evader ST today, and that things looks sick! I can't wait until he wipsme out at the track. :p

[Boostin_69]

hey i just broke my rear pin brace thingy ( u kno the big piece connected to the chassis) can i order an alluminium st PRO replacement (will it fit etc.) so it wont break again. this is the 2nd time it has cracked in half.

[elecracr]

Yea, the alluminum one would be a good idea. You should get brushless eventually and then you will be the one passing your dad. Remember that driver skill can win a race more than the car. Just concentrate on having smooth laps without any mistakes.

[vaderbxman]

yes, you can order that aluminum one, because I checked to see if both the plastic and aluminum one would fit onto the rear of my ST, and they both fit like a charm.

I noticed when my dad got his truck out of the box that he had the same tires I had for my ST pro. I think we'll be kind of evenly matched on the track, because he has the speeds and jumping capabilities, and I've got light weight cornering abilities. Plus, my dad is a better driver than me, i'm not even going to try buttering that up. Over time, yes i'll probably go brushless, and I might get better at driving, but I really want that Jammin' X-1 CRT RTR because of it's sheer mass and horsepower. but that wouln't happen for at least half a year, because I lack the funds.

[Boostin_69]

thanks ill order as soon as i can. BUT for the next couple of days im going to try and do a ghetto repair with supaaa glue !!! heheh ill get pics of it broke 2moro

[Boostin_69]

well i found a silver can laying around
so i wired it up and had a bit of slow fun !
lol but i hit the jump at a weird angle..... WOT,
and this is what happened---http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/Boostin_69/broken1.jpg

[vaderbxman]

so, by judging by the pic, you ripped the rear shock tower off the mounts, or broke that rear chassi plate again. sick! :( that rear aluminum chassi plate will be a good investment, because i've had some nasty licks on the rear of the car, and nothing broke :huh: (minus the rear axle hub)

[vaderbxman]

I broke another servo gear set today, and was tired of buying new ones, so I cracked open the servo saver, and it would not budge. I forcecd the metal post out, took it the rest of the way apart, and compared it to my first evadet st's servo saver, and their different!

look for yourself http://carrollclan.com/posts.jpg

the one on the top is from my evader ST pro that I took out today, and the one on the bottom is the one out of my first evader I owned. I'm gong to place the servo saver from my first evader st into my car, because it moves alot smoother, and try to find out what was making the servo saver from my evader ST pro bind up so bad.

[RControl Freak]

Im probally going to go brushless hopefully this summer! Does anyone have any comments on the Novak Super Sport system, because that's my target right now! :D

[vaderbxman]

going brushless, eh? I think you've got the right idea with the novak ones because I hear all kinds of great reviews about them. you'll probably have to get some good batteries to combat the insane power draw, and find out which ones suit your needs best, but other than that, go for it! I, personally, like the brushed motors, so i think i'll just either stick with the one i've got now, or go for the 12T SV2 motor from orion.

[elecracr]

The super sport system is plug and play and nice but not the greatest choice in my oppinion.
If you can solder you can take the same route that I took and piece together a system that will be cheaper and faster than the novak.
My system cost me around 180 or 200 new and will wipe the floor with the novak system. My GP3300 packs are very hot once I am done running because of the high current draw. My car is much faster than with the brushed, and the runtimes are quite a bit higher than when i used to run 12 and 13 turn brushless motors. The motor and controller are both just slightly warm after running a full pack offroad with no power drop untill a few seconds before dumping.
I got the alluminum idler in the transmission and am thinking that it will hold up for a while. I need to look and find where to get the alluminum differential then my transmission will be bullet proof.

[redhatman]

Hey guys, my evader was my first offroad rc car. I then sold it to get into gas unfortunately, but recently picked up another one. People dont like duratrax, but i dont find them much of a problem.

Anyway, I was wondering if you guys have any problems with the differential? I personally dont like ball diffs because you cant really lock them good.

Are there any must-have upgrades for the evader that you would suggest? Maybe a Screw set?

It already has a Dynamite Tazer 19t ESC, 19t revenge of the monster motor, Futaba S3005 metal geared servo, deans, and thats about it.

What would you guys suggest? Thanks
-Pat

[elecracr]

You dont want to truly lock your differential because then the car will not handle well at all. Whenever mine slips i start to put in carbide balls and rebuild it and it runs fine. I would suggest you get a new esc with atleast a 12turn limit. Then you can run a 15 turn and have pretty decent performance. Also, one of the biggest upgrades you can do would be a nice set of batteries.

[RControl Freak]

Yeah, I would have to second that comment on the 12T ESC. You already got one of the most important upgrades, which are the deans plugs. Those tamiya plugs, while covienent, simply cannot match the deans in performance and least power loss. You definatly want to get either a 15 turn motor, or even lower. :D

[redhatman]

yea, back when I had my evader before I had a mTroniks ESC that could handle down to 8 turns, and then I had a speedgems 12t kobal motor on there. Only did like 28 mph though.

[elecracr]

You must have not had it set up right. A 12 turn motor in a evader, with correct gearing will run over 30. This can also be determined by batteries, you must use good cells for any type of high current system. Either way I think you had something wrong or you had a worn out motor.

[redhatman]

could be a worn out motor. I was driving last night and my motor right now was getting to the point where I have to have a rolling start for it to kick in? Is tht just low battery or what?

[vaderbxman]

your brushes either are worn out and you need new ones, or your brushess might be pushing down too hard on your comm. soulution: I don't know. If your still running the Photon Speed motor, you might want to change that out because it doesn't last very long, and the motor is crap. Instead of the Photon, try a 19 turn team orion method r. I have one of those in my evader bx, and that thing keeps up with my 15 turn evader st Pro. Hope that helps!

[elecracr]

Spec 19turn motors can be as fast as a budget 15turn, but due to 24 degrees timing and such they wear out faster.

[vaderbxman]

I know that the Method R's have adjustable timing, but that Spec 19 turn motor sounds good if your just doing some weekend racing down at the track. Take your pick!

[redhatman]

Heres the motor I have in it right now: http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/motors/chameleon2.html seems like a good motor but may be wearing out. I got this truck used so dont know how much everything was used.

[RControl Freak]

is the motor used?
If it is, then you may want to get a new motor.

[vaderbxman]

the chameleon2 motors are pretty good. I read some pages back that this was a good motor to have. you might get lucky and be able to replace the brushes and restore speed, but more than likely not.

[RControl Freak]

you only want to bother replacing the springs or brushes if it's a high dollar motor. Like on that stock Photon motor, I wouldn't even bother. I'd just trash it!

[elecracr]

In the chameleon try getting the comm cut and get new brushes. That should blow you away when you get the motor back.

[redhatman]

well, I took apart the motor last night, into 3 parts, the cap, can, and thing in the middle (lol, im used to nitro engines) I cleaned them all of with denatured alcohol, and then blew them off with compressed air. Put everything back together and the motor goes by itself now, seems like its working good now. I need to test it outside when it isnt raining.

[geezer]

I have found that replacing the brush springs is as important as cutting the com. I compare the old spring to a new one to see if the springs match as far as the angles and straightnes. Discoloration is a hit that the spring has gotten hot, and this could weeken it and cause the motor to run poorly. They are alittle exspensive for such a small item, but they are a critical part for keeping a motor in top running condition.

[vaderbxman]

Hmm, thanks for the tip geezer. I didn't know those things could become weak.

[thareelcauz]

hey wuz up guys, i want to go brushless and im pretty sure that somewhere in these 82 pages is info on what i need to upgrade to handle this power. thats alot of reading and my ADD will not let me sit on this computer that long lol j/k. I was wondering if soemone else could tell me what are the things i need to upgrade in the tranny to hold up??? and where i could order them from??
thank you

[vaderbxman]

well, here I go.

you will need
A. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFZP0&P=7
B. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPH0&P=M
C. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSY9&P=M (if you don't already have them)

You might also want to experiment with different gear ratios and such, but that should keep your tranny bullet-proof for a while. Happy bashing!!

[elecracr]

That is how my tranny is set up... i do have to rebuild the differential often but not too bad. My brushless is very powerful and im not having many problems. Just set your slipper and you will be fine.

[vaderbxman]

I recently set my slipper, fixed my diff problem with not being a diff, and got my servo saver to work like a charm. Now I'm ready for the hardest bash session ever!

P.S. look at the batteries I bought yesterday http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLS6&P=ML

[redhatman]

I recently set my slipper, fixed my diff problem with not being a diff, and got my servo saver to work like a charm. Now I'm ready for the hardest bash session ever!

P.S. look at the batteries I bought yesterday http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLS6&P=ML


ewwww, nicd what about this? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERB5&P=ML I was thinking about getting one or 2 of those. 3000 mah, nimh.

[RControl Freak]

I have that exact battery... It offers some insane run time, but the shrink wrap tears easily. Still, it's worth it! :D

[vaderbxman]

Yes, but i have one problem. My charger doesn't charge those batteries, otherwise, I would have gone with a 3000 miliamp team orion rocket pack. :roll2: Still, I just wanted 2 batteries to replace some that have gone bad in different ways. My first one, an old shark battery, has some bad connections, and I have an associated wildpack that doesn't hold a charge worth a flip. I hate both of those batteries, adn they need to b e shot! :bang: :flame: I think I got some good batteries, so i'll have to wait and see. :p I'm not looking into getting another charger, because I might get a Traxxas Jato 2.5, and that will put less demands on my batteries. By the looks of things from that Jato, it'll be a contender with my dad's nitro evader ST :driving: :cool:

I forgot to mention, I have the tower hobbies 15 min charger. I know, crappy, oh well.

[RControl Freak]

Hey, forget the Jato, save up for that Jammin truggy! :D

[redhatman]

hey vaderbxman, I have a dynamite vision peak charger that I got with my evader deal, and I have 2 1500 packs I would sell. The packs are great, and are offering about 10 minutes of runtime each, so im looking for a bit more. Let me know.

[vaderbxman]

well, thanks for the offer man, but I might be getting out of electric powered cars in about 3 months, so I wouldn't have a use for a new charger. Thanks a bunch for the offer though man!

@RControl freak - why would I want a Jammin'? I mean, I'm not looking to buy something that is an A-main competitor, because the only other prople I race against is my dad and my little brother, who drives the Duratrax Vendetta. That thing takes off fast for being so small!

Anyway, I want something that will be easy to work on, has a proven chassi and durability, and doesn't leave too big of a dent in my wallet.

I am, however watching the mini CRT with keen interest. If that thing turns out to be an affordable alternative to the full-blown CRT, I might go after that. Keep in mind that I have a projected budget of about $380-400 dollars to spend on a car, including gas and plugs. So please, if anyone has a good alternative to the Jato, or would like to list some good points about the Jato, please get in touch with me on these fourms. Thanks a billion in advance!

[RControl Freak]

Hey, the Jato looks pretty solid, but if you've ever had a traxxas vehicle (I have!), you should know their skimp points:

1: that piece-of-crap TQ2 is going to be one of your first uprgades, it is simply a crappy radio, even for a AM!
2: That EZ-Start isn't all it's cracked out to be! Too many wires, and you want to avoid wires on nitro!
3: I don't know if the Jato comes with the "high torque" 2055 version of their servo, but if it does, then you should know that that servo isn't all that great, but if it comes with the regular servo, forget it!!
4:And, the last thing specific to the Jato, the 2 speed tranny is great, but isnt legal for many races, including clubs, where a stadium truck must have a single speed, and if you're gonna go single, you're gonna want to get MIP's ball diff!

You may like this truck, or rather truggy on steriods (It's a full inch bigger than the Jammin'!): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYZ7&P=ML

[redhatman]

So guys, Im pretty sure i will be selling my esc and getting rid of this motor. I will probably buy a Novak Super Rooster which has no turn limit cept at dual 15's.

Anyway, whats a good motor that will offer some good punch and top end?

[vaderbxman]

Hey, the Jato looks pretty solid, but if you've ever had a traxxas vehicle (I have!), you should know their skimp points:

1: that piece-of-crap TQ2 is going to be one of your first uprgades, it is simply a crappy radio, even for a AM!
2: That EZ-Start isn't all it's cracked out to be! Too many wires, and you want to avoid wires on nitro!
3: I don't know if the Jato comes with the "high torque" 2055 version of their servo, but if it does, then you should know that that servo isn't all that great, but if it comes with the regular servo, forget it!!
4:And, the last thing specific to the Jato, the 2 speed tranny is great, but isnt legal for many races, including clubs, where a stadium truck must have a single speed, and if you're gonna go single, you're gonna want to get MIP's ball diff!

You may like this truck, or rather truggy on steriods (It's a full inch bigger than the Jammin'!): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYZ7&P=ML


I have looked into the mammoth, and I just think that the tires look a little goofy to me. I also have that 2PL transmitter that came with my Evader ST pro, and I could just probably buy a new receiver for the jato. As for the E-Z Start system, I'm going to go do some research about reviews before I get my head too deep into a possible mess. As always, I thank you for the imput and opinions.

How about this one? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMVT4&P=ML

They have one at my LHS, and I don't see any difference between the Jammin' and this one. Minus the motor and price, the are pretty much the same vehicle.

To Redhatman, Try the Team orion SV2 series of motors. I have owned 2 motors from them, and they give insane holeshots, and pretty good top speeds. Try looking into that one! :cool:

[elecracr]

I personally think that the super rooster is just simply overpriced. I think if you are spending that much you might as well go brushless. Or just get a nice 12turn or the Duratrax 8t esc. I realize that these might not be quite as nice of esc's, but they will do the job. If you are looking for a nice combo of reliability and speed I would try the speed gem pro's. I had a few of these when I was brushed, a 15t will be quite quick and not wear out too fast. If you want to spend more get the orion hand wound motors with the angled brush design. I had a 13t like that and I still have it but have no vehicle to use it in, that motor was probobly my favorite brushed motor for good maintenance and performance.
Also, I would not recomend buying 1500 packs, they simply will not perform near as well as better packs. Get a few decent GP3300 packs and a nice charger and you will be 10X happier in the long run... The 1500's may seem fine when your car is stock, but as soon as you start upgrading they quickly become the weak link.

[redhatman]

Ok, well i was offered a Novak Super Rooster for $55 shipped. I just put new brushes in my chameleon 2 motor, and sanded down the comm a bit to get some crud off. Do I have to rebreak in the motor now or what?

[vaderbxman]

ummm......, I never broke-in the team orion method motor I got. I don't see why you would need to, but if you sanded-down the comm somewhat, I would go easy on the throttle for a couple of runs befor going full-throttle. Just my .02.

[RControl Freak]

I've seen the Mutilator truggy before, and it doesn't impress me much... Besides, once again, the radio isn't much, and if you can, you want to avoid going with stripped-down vehicles, since that is what the Mutilator technically is! Here's one you may like: http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=KYO31354B/410.0.0.0.0.0.0
(It's not available on Tower, but it did win a truggy shootout in RC Car Action! It even beat the Jammin CRT!) :D

[vaderbxman]

I've seen the Mutilator truggy before, and it doesn't impress me much... Besides, once again, the radio isn't much, and if you can, you want to avoid going with stripped-down vehicles, since that is what the Mutilator technically is! Here's one you may like: http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=KYO31354B/410.0.0.0.0.0.0
(It's not available on Tower, but it did win a truggy shootout in RC Car Action! It even beat the Jammin CRT!) :D

I have that article in my latest RC Car Action magazine, and honestly, I don't see why I would go with a Kyosho? :huh:

I mean, I know it's an O.k. truck and all, but I think that the Kyosho beating the Jammin' was just a fluke. Open up the last four issues of RC Car Action, and you will see the Jammin' at the top of the list. It also won Truck of the year!! :eek: By all means, this truck should be $1,000 dollars, but it's only $540.00, and it comes fully loaded with all kinds of A-main winning goodies that push this car ahead of everyone else.

I'm considerin the Mutilator because if the two are the same, minus the Mutilator missing some, "Racing musts," I can just add-on parts later if I go club racing, which probably will never happen because we only run 1/10 scale offroad nitro and electric, 1/8 scale offroad, and Gascar. I'm going to dig farther down into this and see if the Mutilator would be a good first nitro truck.

I will also be considering some electric stadiun trucks, like the Associated T4 RS. Please keep all opinions flowing!

[RControl Freak]

Uh... I'm sorry to say this, but the only reason the Inferno probally didn't win the Truck of the Year is due to the fact that it's brand new! In the first race it was in, the pro version beat the pro CRT and all of the others! Personally, I've seen Kyosho stuff run before, such as their on-road cars, and they haul! Still, I can see that you obviously like the Jammin, and I'm not going to push the matter! I will say this though: The Kyosho is 150 bucks cheaper, and includes a computer radio! (Airtronics)

So, I'm going to move on:

[vaderbxman]

Good point. As the Kyosho is a new truck, I didn't take into consideration that it took the Jammin' almost a year to prove itself worthy. I am willing to bet that the Kyosho might win next year's competiton. I also overlooked the transmitter, but I love my 2PL transmitter too much to switch. I also didn't see the price tag, but I'm finikey and I sometimes don't see a lower price tag as a good thing, because I think to myself, "why is it so much cheaper than the product next to it? Why would they sell a product of equal contents so much less expensive?" I guess I'm just a little too conservative, my fault.

I'm glad I stumbled over this great community and thread because I am allowed to express my opinions about matters and products. However I may not agree with others, and vise versa, we are all entitled to our opinions and thoughts. I thank you greatly RControlfreak and everyone else in this thread for all of your imput and time spent on this matter when you could have spent your time somewhere else. It shows how this hobby has grown to accept newcommers, educate the ignorent, and lecture the new.

I can't thank you enough RControlfreak for the effort you exerted in this matter and me. I think that I overlooked your opinions and substituted my own, and I apoligize for that, and I hope you will come to forgive me in being an ignorent "boob" in this matter.

[leuphole]

yo, i'm relatively knew to this so my bad if what i'm asking is extremely elementary. does anyone out there know about replacing evader st pro tires ? i recently bought a pair of pro line dirt paws and when i attempted to go about removing the stock tires i found that they're pretty much glued on. any tips on how to make the switch would be appreciated.

[vaderbxman]

well, I always replace the rim when I buy new rubber, but I guess you could use an exacto knife and a file set to grind all the rubber away. hope that helps!

[redhatman]

yea, they are glued so they stay on there and dont fall off. Heres what you can do, 3 methods.

-Boil the wheels/tires in boiling water for a while, that breaks the bonds, and use somethign to peel back the tires while its hot.

-Cook the tires in the oven (i think like 10-15 minutes on a like 350? not sure on this one, heard it works well but leaves a smell.)

-Or, use acetone. You can find nail polish remover with it, just make sure to look for the kind with acetone. Then just put some in a bowl, or on a cookie sheet that has sides and set them in there so the glue is submerged. Just set them there over night and it should break them off. Note: It will chip away chrome paint.

[RControl Freak]

Hey, in no way do you owe me an apology! You didn't do anything wrong! I was just pointing out what I thought! It's not like I'm some kind of thread dictator, and anyone who doesn't agree with my thoughts is going to be "hung, drawn and quartered!" Anyway, I guess if you want the Jammin, then there's really no reason to by the inferno, since one truggy is enough, and you might as well get the one you want, rather than getting one you DON'T want, then spending another 500 bucks to get the one you DO want! :D

Besides, you may want to wait a while, since the new Associated RC10GT2 RTR will be out soon! :D

[vaderbxman]

Associated RC10GT2 RTR :eek:

Now there's a suggestion. :cool: I also have looked into the T4, and possibly a better brushed motor. I just want to keep up with my dad on the track. I don't care if it's nitro or electric. I also don't want something that will eat all of my money, :rolleyes: so I might stick with a big name. I don't know of any other cars I might be interested, so list any off-road truck that will be easy to obtain parts, and is easy on my wallet. I have widened my search considerably, so I will not be too picky!!

[RControl Freak]

Here's the link: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPAC9&P=ML

[vaderbxman]

Well, that's perfect for the amount of money that I can spend. I have a total of about 329.99 to spend. (which is the exact price of the Traxxas E-maxx)
So the GT2 would fit the bill, and maybe the Associated T4.

[vaderbxman]

well, I'm debating of which color of paint to color the body. I want it to be clean, like one color, so maybe a black or a deep blue color. I'm also trying to find a glow starter to go with, and a fuel bottle, which would be easy to find because I'll just pick one up like my dad's that came with his nitro evader. I also want to see what the transmitter looks like. Even if the radio is good, i'm still going to stick with the 2PL magnum radio.

As for the glow starter, i'm looking at this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN91&P=ML

and this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ803&P=ML

I think the great planes one is nicer, but is also more expensive.

How about these colors? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCY15&P=7

Candy blue: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCY26&P=7

Bright blue: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCY38&P=7

[RControl Freak]

Hey, as for the glow starter, one of my buddies has this one, which is excellent: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXME71&P=7

And as for your painting, the candy blue sounds neat! :D

[vaderbxman]

The glow plug has been noted. As for the paint, candy blue was my personal favorite too!

EDIT: I found this in ebay. I'm not buying it, but I want to know what kind of bumper he has on it so I can buy it for myself!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Duratrax-Evader-ST-for-parts-or-finish-it_W0QQitemZ220032281150QQihZ012QQcategoryZ44028QQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

[Gearhead1970]

I thought this was a evader st forum but maybe not yall are talking about everthing but a evader st is this a truck buying forum :D

[vaderbxman]

We're talking about the evader. Just look at my last post. And besides, we're just exchaniging opinions. :)

[RControl Freak]

Hey, when you go for 72 some pages on a thread, you just MIGHT get tired of talking about Evaders! Besides, it's always better to expand your horizons! :D

[vaderbxman]

Very true indeed.

Well, I just got back from the track, and had a blast. I've gotten better at not spinning out as often, and my dad fixed his glow plug issues. But his fun came to an end when I noticed that his spur gear was missing a tooth, along with his endbell. Can anyone recommend a better brand of spur gears/endbells for nitro offroad, or list a solution to my dad's stripped gears.

[rigrishracer22B]

is this esc a good one or a bad one to run in the evader and what does the J mean http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD523&P=7

[vaderbxman]

The "J" stands for the type of connector it uses to hook up with the receiver. If you have the original receiver that came with your Evader, or have a futaba receiver, this ESC will work. As for performance, that ESC should be good for sport bashing to low-key club racing. The 12 turn limit sounds nice, and the traction control might be fun to tool around with. Have at thee!! :winner: :driving:

[rigrishracer22B]

Thanks much i was getting scared that it would suck but that is all i do is bash and do real low key club racing oh and my diff went out the allen bolt that you are suppost to tighten will not tighten and i cant get it to back out to take it apart what parts will i need to fix this or can it be fixed

[redhatman]

I have a Dynamite Tazer 19t limit esc if your interested... Forward/Brake/Reverse.

[vaderbxman]

Thanks much i was getting scared that it would suck but that is all i do is bash and do real low key club racing oh and my diff went out the allen bolt that you are suppost to tighten will not tighten and i cant get it to back out to take it apart what parts will i need to fix this or can it be fixed

Your welcome. :cool: You might want to do somthing creative to help keep the ESC cool, but it should do the job.

Onto your diff problem. You might have just knocked a diff ball out of place because you had the diff way too loose, or you might have shaddered a ball.

If you can't back the allen bolt out of the diff, you aren't totally sunk yet. Dotted around the diff case are more allen bolts. back all of those off and take a fine screwdriver or your bare hands to pry it open. Once cracked open, hold one of the output shafts. (those cylinder-shaped metal parts with a slot cut out of them for the dogbone driveshaft) If you are looking at the diff from the rear, with the small imput shaft at the top-right, hold onto the whole right side and pull away the left side. When open, it will be messy, so have a paper towel handy. Next, remove the diff from the actual diff itself from the housing, and set it down. Inspect the inside of it to make sure you don't have a stripped gear or somthing.

Now, to the technical part:

Carefully, stand the diff on it's side with the allen bolt facing up. Slowly back the bolt all the way off. When you remove the bolt and the diff is ready to split into two parts, with the upmost caution and precision, remove the half of the diff that you just loosened. By doing this carefully, you will be able to see the actual problem with the diff. With the half of the diff off and placed aside, inspect the thrust balls. (the miniture tiny balls that outline the large gear inside the diff.) If they look worn or fractured, or if one of them doesn't look like the rest, you will probably need a new set of thrust balls. I will list some at the bottom of this post. If the balls don't look worn, see if one of the balls poped out of place. That might have caused you problem where you were not able to tighten the allen bolt all the way down. If that is the case, consider yourself lucky, reset the ball in its little holder inside of the large gear, and button it back up by reversing the steps. If the allen bolt will still not move, use some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while, or use a small piece of strong tubing or the wrench you got with your car to use as a lever to put more torque on the screw to get it off.

If none of this has helped you yet, you have one more thing to check. On the inside of the diff that you took apart, the part that has the allen wrench screw into, is a small washer with even smaller balls inside of it, which bounce and hit the floor like chicklets. trust me, you don't want to spend 1/2 hour finding one ball. If this fixed it, your either done, or you have run out of options.

here is the carbide diff balls, which will outlast your car!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPH1&P=7

and if the smaller washer with the smaller balls is the problem:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMF3&P=7

Please tell me that this helped you, because this took ages to type, lol!

[elecracr]

Make sure that you are actually putting the right allen wrench in. And when you open it up definately replace the balls if they are old at all. Becuase even if they look fine, they may be smaller and worn.

[vaderbxman]

Thank you for pointing that out. I forgot that, but you can tell it was easy to forget by the amount of words I had to type. My bad! :(

[elecracr]

Yea, you gave great information I was just adding that small little sidenote haha. As long as he gets his car fixed!

I'm up at college right now but am bringing my car up in the next week. I hope there is a hobby shop here or else I will be having packages from tower coming weekly haha.

[rigrishracer22B]

Thanks im trying to type make a Towers list up and look at my diff. I think i have a bad outdrive shaft the little balls in both shafts are gone and the metal washers are all chewd up and the nut is turning in the other I finally got the bolt out and it was bent and the nut was slipping so i took tire glue and glued the nut in so im just gonna get everything to put a new diff together. thanks again
I have a big race coming up to saturday and sunday

Brandon

[vaderbxman]

:D Your welcome!

[rigrishracer22B]

I have a Dynamite Tazer 19t limit esc if your interested... Forward/Brake/Reverse.
thanks but the way our competition is getting a 19 t wont keep up

[RControl Freak]

I'm pretty sure about this, but I want to see what you guys think.... I want to paint a new body for my evader bx pro, but I don't want a wing..... I'm pretty sure this will work, since the only real difference between the duratrax and the Associated body being the duratrax's wing holding system. Looking closely, I noticed that when you loosen the hex screws on the wing, it comes out, leaving a regular wing, that could fit on pretty much any 1/10 buggy. (Oh, one other thing, if anyone has tried to mount a stadium truck body on a evader st, and had trouble, please tell me, since I am going to attempt to make my bx in to a "truggy"!) Anyway, here are the parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMD7&P=0

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMD9&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2734&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKMJ2&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK9&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK8&P=7

Still, once I finish, it should be pretty cool! :cool:

Once I finish, I'll send in some pics! Still, tell me all your thoughts! :D

[vaderbxman]

well, i have both the bx and the ST, and the BX needs the front shock tower from the evader ST to mount the stadium truck on it. PLEASE ask me anything else you need to know about the two different versions of the evader. I have both, and have tried pretty much everything related to them, from mounting the ST body onto the BX to making the BX a truggy by using the ST suspension bits and the front shocks from the evader st.

finally, I must add this front bumper. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=7

this bumper is a direct fit to the front of the car. I have this very bumper on my evader st right now.

If you need anything else, give me a whistle on the PM's!

[RControl Freak]

Will do! :D

[vaderbxman]

I'm in the process of turning my evader BX into a truggy-like buggy. (a truggy with a buggy body) I have no real way of posting pics, so I can't show you the work I've done.

I got my batteries today, and they took forever to charge. I hope that means good!

[vaderbxman]

Hey RControl Freak, how is your truggy conversion going?

[RControl Freak]

I'm still waiting for Duratrax to send me the replacements for my broken graphite parts! Can't start just yet! :D

[vaderbxman]

Meh, I have to send in
1). 1 rear hub carrier
2). 1 Vendetta front knuckle (my brother toasted his after loosing power in front of my dad's electric vader

Overall, not too bad. I usually buy some non-graphite parts to use as spares until I get the broken part back form them.

[metric69]

as the title says.. here is a list..

1. piston set for the DTX18 $30.00
2. aluminum brake nut DTXC6733 $4.00
3. shock seal set. DTXC9056 $1.50
4. yellow springs DTXC9230 $1.50
5. 3 x Brake disk DTXC6716 $3.00 for all 3
6. stock cluch shoes DTXC7157 $5.00
7. 2 x shock parts set DTXC9068 $3.00 for both
8. 4 x front shock tower EVBX DTXC9201 $9.00 for all 4
9. rear hubs EVST DTXC8070 $1.50
10.cv shaft set NEVBX DTXC7289 $25.00 for all of them 2 new in package and 3 loose used one but all in great shape


Will take $80.00 for all.. Plus shipping..
Please email me at jay.jay@accesscomm.ca
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/metric69/DSC05821.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/metric69/DSC05822.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/metric69/DSC05820.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/metric69/DSC05819.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/metric69/DSC05818.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/metric69/DSC05817.jpg

[rigrishracer22B]

i need about all of that stuff but i need it for the st

[metric69]

all my st parts went last week sorry lol

[rigrishracer22B]

can the streak esc handle a 11turn motor

[vaderbxman]

Well, the ESC specs a 12 turn limit, but I got away with a 19 turn with my Duratrax Sprint ESC way back. It's a little risky, but I don't think that the ESC will care, as long as you don't overgear the car.

[RControl Freak]

sure, if you gear it right! :D

(The Streak has a 12T limit, but with the right gearing, you can get away with a 11T! My friend runs a 17T with the stock esc!)

[RControl Freak]

hey, vaderbxman, did you ever get another motor for the ST pro?

[vaderbxman]

hey, vaderbxman, did you ever get another motor for the ST pro?

eventually, I'm thinking about getting the 12 turn SV2 motor, but for now, I haven't changed out the motor. I'm also not going brushless because I don't have that kind of cash laying around. Have you checked Tower Hobbies lately? Their selling out the St Pro, and they only have 5 frequencies left. Not good. :(

[leuphole]

yo, ive been wondering about new motors recently too .. . since 12 turns is as low as i can go without replacing the esc i plan to go with that, and at least a double wind. i hear hand wound motors tend to be faster so i suppose that would be my preference. are there motors out there that fulfill this criteria and go well with our st pro's? any suggestions?

[RControl Freak]

I'd have to go with VaderBX on this one, the Team Orion SV2 12 turn is one awesome motor, with plenty of speed, just make sure you get the one with ball bearings, rather than bushings! :D

[vaderbxman]

just make sure you get the one with ball bearings, rather than bushings! :D

Yup! :D

[leuphole]

sweet . . . and since the car is already running an orion i imagine it swaps pretty easily then huh? or, will any 1/10 motor work with my st pro whether it be orion, reedy, trinity etc?

[guver]

I think a streak would be fine with 11 turn and 6-7 cells, but if using 10 cells then probably not.

[rigrishracer22B]

sweet . . . and since the car is already running an orion i imagine it swaps pretty easily then huh? or, will any 1/10 motor work with my st pro whether it be orion, reedy, trinity etc?
The team orion sv2 method motors are about the best throw away motor cheap too and all the motors change and fit about the same regardless of what you get. :teacher:

[rigrishracer22B]

Oh if you get a motor from towers or anywhere else make sure the brushes and leads are on them (if it is suppost to have these items)my 11 turn method dident have the brushes or the leads.

[RControl Freak]

Oh if you get a motor from towers or anywhere else make sure the brushes and leads are on them (if it is suppost to have these items)my 11 turn method dident have the brushes or the leads.

Geez, talk about a rip! :mad:

[rigrishracer22B]

yeah tell me about it i had to spend 6 bucks just to send it back :mad:

[leuphole]

thanks for the tips fellas

[RControl Freak]

No problem! :D

[rigrishracer22B]

Thats what were here for.

[generis]

i need to get some losi or associated wheels.. I keep buying evader wheels, and they are cracking regularily, and the wheel lip breaks off way before the tire is worn out.
Which rims work on this truck?????

[vaderbxman]

All the xx-t rims work, and if you go to the replacement parts section on tower hobbies, it lists some chrome wheels on the bottom of the list. Hope this helps!!

[RControl Freak]

yeah, duratrax wheels do kinda suck! :D

[vaderbxman]

My dad cracked his not to long ago, so I'm keeping a careful eye on my rear rims. I bought some Holeshot R3s for my car so I can stick in the corners so I don't slide all over the place.

[RControl Freak]

i already cracked my front wheel in a paticurly nasty crash, the same one that shattered my front wheel hub! I never understood why they painted our tracks sidewalls orange, and now there's orange paint on my car! :D

[rigrishracer22B]

Update: The DTX ESC is the best esc ever for the money the only bad part is it dont have reverse but if you are an ameture or novice racer at clubs or local hobby shops. what are the best foam tires to run on a carpet track that fit the stock evader wheels.

[vaderbxman]

i already cracked my front wheel in a paticurly nasty crash, the same one that shattered my front wheel hub! I never understood why they painted our tracks sidewalls orange, and now there's orange paint on my car! :D

hahaha, Orange, huh? I'm glad that our sidewalls are the generic black. Too bad it doesn't help my little bro's vendetta when he scrapes up against the wall and leaves a bunch of little scrapes on the rim.

Onto the ESC, man, sounds like you got a good deal! I'm glad that ESC handled your motor pretty well! Good investment, eh? :cool: As for the foam wheels, I think HPI makes some, but they might come on rims. Try 2.2 foam tires on tower search. It might not work, but it's worth a shot. :D

[RControl Freak]

well.... I only have one ESC to judge off, and I would say that DTX's esc's are a true deal, but still, they are prown to failure, since I got a defective one. (Still, as for service, Duratrax hits it big, because they gave me a new ESC, no questions asked!! :D :eek: )

[rigrishracer22B]

hahaha, Orange, huh? I'm glad that our sidewalls are the generic black. Too bad it doesn't help my little bro's vendetta when he scrapes up against the wall and leaves a bunch of little scrapes on the rim. what are your walls made out of the track i run on has a white plastic wall going around it

[vaderbxman]

I've got the basic black tubing that is about 2 inches across. nothing fancy, and it doesn't really help you if you hit the wall straight on, but it guards against scrapes and bumps pretty well.

[RControl Freak]

my walls are wood "orange, obviously! :D ), with a design that allows them to lock. (This track is a portable track, that they set up every sunday, with one of the local rednecks towing a trailer with all the crap on it!)

[vaderbxman]

Awesome! Our walls are nailed to the ground. If you go to www.hobbyraceway.com and poke around, you'll find some really old video of our old track. Our track doesn't look like that any more, but it's nice to see some alabama red dirt, lol!

[rigrishracer22B]

what size pinion is everyone running with an11 turn motor

[vaderbxman]

Well, you caught me at my weak point, because I don't know how to gear motors. Try the search engine for gearing instructions, and that should help you out alot more than I just did, lol.

[redhatman]

well I was running a 20t with the 13t double speed gems kobal and it would wheely and have nice top end.

[vaderbxman]

There you go, he knows his stuff! I just got done beating all the mud off my ST from last night's bash session. I'll tell you, running on the dry stuff is alot more fun than scraping mud out from everywhere for the next 2 weeks. The good thing is that next weekend, I'll have some brand-new Hole Shots to run.

[rigrishracer22B]

bashing is fun :cool: untill you find out how many parts you break :mad:.
Went racing sunday and stripped a spur gear bent a shock shaft and that is all the broken parts i found so far. :D

[vaderbxman]

bashing is fun :cool: untill you find out how many parts you break :mad:.
Went racing sunday and stripped a spur gear bent a shock shaft and that is all the broken parts i found so far. :D

Woah!! I haven't broken that much on my car ever! What did you hit to do that? :huh:

[rigrishracer22B]

One huge wreck 7 car pile up and my car was in the middle.

[rigrishracer22B]

it was a bashing race session we put jumps and stuff on the track.

[elecracr]

I have broken 50 dollars worth of parts in one wreck by hitting a wall because of a glitch with a 13turn hand wound motor. I just got a new pro after though because that first one was pretty old.

[rigrishracer22B]

oh man that sucks but you got a pro out of it. I still have the original evader ep st and it is almost 3 years old.

[vaderbxman]

I have broken 50 dollars worth of parts in one wreck by hitting a wall because of a glitch with a 13turn hand wound motor. I just got a new pro after though because that first one was pretty old.

Woah!! I thought me running my glitched-out evader ST under a truck was bad, but that sounds a little worse because you knew the car was out of control, and all you could do was watch it crash and break (This was my old ST: I have since bought a BX Pro kit and a ST Pro RTR.)

[RControl Freak]

I think that I'm going to get a good 12T motor, but I just don't know what kind yet!

[redhatman]

Speed Gems are good...

[rigrishracer22B]

Method motor from orion has never let me down

[RControl Freak]

:D speed gems and method, trinity and orion.....I'm debating.... I want something that will kick the s*** out of my friend's 15 turn orion!

[marinearmenibro]

If i were to get a 15 turn motor what should me pinion size be? :confused: I have dirt hawgs tires if that helps in this situation.

[RControl Freak]

What's the turn limit on your ESC?

[marinearmenibro]

14 turn.

[rigrishracer22B]

If i were to get a 15 turn motor what should me pinion size be? :confused: I have dirt hawgs tires if that helps in this situation.
I run this same setup in my evader currently (new 11 turn is being broke in) and i have a 17 tooth pinion , but i have dirt works

[vaderbxman]

That sounds about right! I think that's the same gearing for my 15 turn SV2 orion.

[marinearmenibro]

thanks for the help.

[rigrishracer22B]

That sounds about right! I think that's the same gearing for my 15 turn SV2 orion.
What is your motor called I have a method SV2

[vaderbxman]

I've got this motor: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAK2&P=7

It has globs of torque and amazing speed that challanges my dad's nitro evader with a 2400 Mh battery I run. Ridiculously inexpensive, and a must for anyone with a compatible ESC (keep in mind their is a version that comes with ball-bearings for a couple extra dollars, but you only gain a couple of RPM with it.)

If you can, try to squeze a few extra turns out of the motor and go for a 12 turn or something. I might get a 12 turn eventually, but I'm more than pleased with the performancec of the motor I have now. Hope this answers your question! :)

[rigrishracer22B]

yes now im thinking of getting one

[RControl Freak]

im gonna get the 12T version of that motor! :D

[marinearmenibro]

With that motor could you replace the stock bushings with bearings?

[vaderbxman]

I'm not sure. They might be some weird one-off type of bearing, or they might be a common one that your LHS would carry. Hehe, I'm glad I'm not the only one looking at this motor, refering to RControl Freak's post! :)

[marinearmenibro]

ok, i was just wondering. and anybody know any bodies that will fit with the evader st.

[rigrishracer22B]

You can about get any 1/10 body to fit on the evader.If that helps any.

[vaderbxman]

Well, how about a list of parts needed to make any body fit on an evader, and a list or pictures of bodies too. I'm looking to paint up a body to look like a police car, and I would like to have a stadium truck body, but Duratrax sells bodies without overspray film.

I went to go watch the town's first annual RC championship at our track, and it was awesome. I didn't drive, and only one other guy at the track had an 1/10 scale truck, but it was nitro. They had maybe 6 Revos there, one Jammin' CRT, and a T-maxx there racing around warming-up. I didn't stay for the race, but the practice was pretty awesome!!!

[DPRacinG]

Does anyone race the evader st pro?...if so how good does it handle in stock form

[vaderbxman]

Does anyone race the evader st pro?...if so how good does it handle in stock form


Oooooooh,I've been waiting for a question like that!! I have the ST Pro, and it's pretty awesome in stock trim. In dusty, blue-groove tracks, the ST is loose, but it's fixable with some throttle response, some rear toe-in, or some new tires, because the Prolines that come with are a hard compound. on muddy conditions, this things sticks like glue, but develops a little bit of a push. You can fix that by adding some positive toe-out and raising the ride height a little bit.

Overall, this thing is a beast! It has globs of torque, lots of speed, and it doesn't leave too big a dent in your wallet. They're also covered by the 1 year warranty on plastic parts, and they are durable, because I've only broken one part sincee opening it up back in august.

I hope this helps!! :D

[RControl Freak]

Also, if you're going to get a ST Pro, you'd better hurry, since I believe that they're discontinuing them! :eek:

[rigrishracer22B]

vaderbxman Well, how about a list of parts needed to make any body fit on an evader, and a list or pictures of bodies too
Ok her are some bodies I put on my evader..
http://www.mcallisterracing.com/racing/

[vaderbxman]

Did you use the T3 bodies, or what because, and correct me if I'm wrong, I don't see anything with the word "Duratrax" in there. :( I guess I need a bit more information beecause I'm stubborn :D

[rigrishracer22B]

I ued the dirt latemodel bodies in the dirt oval section

[vaderbxman]

:confused: Oh.

Maybe I'll stick with the stocker body. :D

[rigrishracer22B]

Some of the crowd pleazer bodies will fit But I havent found any bodies that say for the evader.

[rigrishracer22B]

Is ther any after market shocks you can buy for the vader that dont have the adjustable collars.

[redhatman]

Is ther any after market shocks you can buy for the vader that dont have the adjustable collars.

why wouldnt u want the threaded shocks? You could get some rc10gt stock shocks. They use the clips.

[rigrishracer22B]

why wouldnt u want the threaded shocks?
Because I bought some team Factory springs and they wont fit around the threads.

[vaderbxman]

Maybe the T4 shocks would fit, but this isn't confirmed, and this comes from the mouth of a guy who hasen't seen a t4 in person. :D

[rigrishracer22B]

ok thanks Ill snoop around

[RControl Freak]

u may want to check out the shock shaft lengths for starters! (And the shock bodies, if possible!) :D

[vaderbxman]

Tower hobbies might have the specs for the shocks. try there, or check on neighboring forums

[rigrishracer22B]

found out the traxxas shocks will fit just put vader spring bottoms on them

[vaderbxman]

Sweet!!

Now i've got a question. I've seen the pros race with Holeshots for the front and rear, and I was wondering if that would benifit me any. Since putting the holeshots on the rear, I've noticed that the car now pushes a little. I thought if I were to put holeshots on the front too, then my car would handle like it was on rails. Anyone else got a suggestion or comment?

[RControl Freak]

uh..... I believe the entire point of the front ribs are to allow the truck to steer easily, and having 4 hole-shots on a 2wd sounds risky.....

[vaderbxman]

Hmmm. Now that I've thought about it, that sounds right. But why does Tebo and the other Associated guys race with holeshots all around? is it just the track conditions, the way the truck handles, or how heavy it is? Just curious. :)

[rigrishracer22B]

I run dirt works all around and it steers better and handles better...
It is probobly due to track conditions but diff people like different setups.

[RControl Freak]

i guess the only way to get the perfect setup is trying different types!

[rigrishracer22B]

yep but the only bad thing is when you finally find your setup you have a bunch of leftover parts.

[RControl Freak]

ebay

[vaderbxman]

I went to the track, and discovered that my year-old HPI battery had died. It no longer holds a charge. I cycled it, I trickle-charged it, bu the stupid thing still doesn't hold anything (probably because it's a year old :D ) So i'm gonna get a new battery, and these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGU4&P=7

I've been reading about it over on another forum. it sounds like a good upgrade to reduce steering slop.

[RControl Freak]

another good cheap upgrade are to get RPM ball links and shock bushings. You can beat the hell out of those things!

[vaderbxman]

Do you have them, do they get rid of some of the slop in the steering, and do they fit! But that's a good alternative to spending 20 dollars on links.!! :)

[RControl Freak]

im talking about those little things that connect the turbuckles to the a-arms! I've always had trouble with those duratrax ones (duh!), so my friend and I both put on the RPM ones, that are as tough as nails!

[vaderbxman]

Oh sweet!! If they tighten-up the links between all of the steering goodies, that might be a better buy! :)

[elecracr]

Vaderbx make sure you get good cells this time and they will last you longer than a year I am sure. I have had my 2 GP3300 packs for 2 or 3 years and they still run fine despite being run very often. Do you always allow you packs to cool before charging again?
Also, I will second the rpm ball joints as i have them and they are great.
I have found most of the slop in the steering in evaders is due to the fact of a weak servo, get a nice high speed servo and you will be amazed at how differently everything handles.

[RControl Freak]

im gonna get a metal gear high torque servo

[vaderbxman]

Vaderbx make sure you get good cells this time and they will last you longer than a year I am sure. I have had my 2 GP3300 packs for 2 or 3 years and they still run fine despite being run very often. Do you always allow you packs to cool before charging again?
Also, I will second the rpm ball joints as i have them and they are great.
I have found most of the slop in the steering in evaders is due to the fact of a weak servo, get a nice high speed servo and you will be amazed at how differently everything handles.

Ok, here I go again, lol!

1.) I have recently purchased these batteries: (and I don't care if NI-Cds are bad. I don't have a charger that'll do NI-Mhs, so keep the battery comments out of this! :) ) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLS6&P=ML

2.) I only run all of my packs once a day. then they usually get 19-22 hours to cool off before I charge them again (I usually race twice in a weekend.)

3.) I have cured the slop, and the problem was me not tightening the front brace screws down far enough, and I "dented" a brass bushing in a nasty wreck. Now I have no more slop, and I'm getting a Futaba S3305 servo for christmas (hopefully!) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML

Once I got the servo saver thing hammered out, this thing hasen't broken any gears since. I am still going for a metal-geared servo just so that I can never worry about that again, but I have no commplaints about the torque or speed that I have now. :teacher:

[elecracr]

Cool, those are good budget batteries. I used them alot untill i got my GP3300's. They were alot better than the batteries I was using before that.

I personally prefer hitec servos, however I have not had much experience other than stock servos with futaba.

On a side not, my gearbox will probobly be getting bullet-proofed here pretty soon. And if all goes well I may have alot of alluminum to help keep this bad boy running at these high speeds.

[rigrishracer22B]

Hi tech servos rock but for the evader you need a servo arm kit..

[vaderbxman]

I have the servo arm kit, so I can change to a different brand of servos if needbee, but I don't need something that has 250oz. of torque for something that I bash on the weekends. I'm probably going to stick with the futaba.

[elecracr]

Ok, Im sure either one of them will be more than enough power to move the evaders small wheels.
Hopefully by the first of the year i will have my evader running on 8 cells and i may get a gps to see how fast it is.
I am estimating probobly between 40 and 45 right now but do not know.
Im pretty sure with some more upgrades i could get 60 mph, im not sure but that should be attainable with 8 cells i would think.

[vaderbxman]

Woah!!!! 40-45 Mph? I'm happy with the 25 Mph I'm pulling now!! :D

[redhatman]

Ok, Im sure either one of them will be more than enough power to move the evaders small wheels.
Hopefully by the first of the year i will have my evader running on 8 cells and i may get a gps to see how fast it is.
I am estimating probobly between 40 and 45 right now but do not know.
Im pretty sure with some more upgrades i could get 60 mph, im not sure but that should be attainable with 8 cells i would think.


maybe you could pull off 40, dont know. With my 13t and 3000's i was doing about 25-30. You may need lipos and brushless to get some good speeds like 60

[RControl Freak]

sounds like a wreck waiting to happen

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, and I want to see his car after he hits a pole, wall, dog, ect. If it looks worse than my old Evader did (my first evader ST ended his life by going under the front tire of a pick-up truck , with the truck winning and my truck finishing in pieces. Since then, I have never taken my car outside to play in the front yard, and I haven't done that in almost 2 months. That sucked! :(

[rigrishracer22B]

Dog ha ha ha ha I hit my neighbors dog with the stampede stupid thing ran right out in front of me.an it did not get hurt

[RControl Freak]

I almost hit my neighbor's dog with my T-MAXX..... Not pretty....

[rigrishracer22B]

Well you really cant help it since they like to chase and bite the tires...And you cant stop or they will cary you away with a lite truck.

[vaderbxman]

And that's why my neighbor's dogs shut-up when my dad plays with his truck in the backyard. I've already shown them what my truck will do to them (unintentionally), so the're scared to find out what happens when they get hit with a nirto!!!

[rigrishracer22B]

ha ha ha
Has anyone ever shot a push pin out of the dogbone by the wheel????
How can I keep this from happening and do they sell extra pins???

[vaderbxman]

Do you mean that little pin that the rim uses to seat itself?? If so, duratrax does sell replacecments, but you would have to see which size it it.

[rigrishracer22B]

no the one were the dogbone joints..

[vaderbxman]

oh, well those are easy to replace. After getting the right size pin (and I might suggest getting the CVd's instead of nre pins because they never back out) just get a good pair of pliers to pop it back in!

[rigrishracer22B]

ok Thanks

[RControl Freak]

yeah, with a "cute" little 2 stroke engine revving at about 20,000 RPM's! (Poor dog......) :D

[RControl Freak]

no the one were the dogbone joints..

My friend came up with the idea of using a heavy duty paper clip, and that hasn't failed him yet!

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, and Someone else in this thread used wire and looped it through the center of the pin, so if it were to come off, the pin would not go flying off the car.

[rigrishracer22B]

ok thanks guys I know this Question popped up once before But I dont remember back that far and I dident fell like going back and searching......

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, I know that feeling. I need to go back and read the gearing for a 12 turn motor for the evader, because I might be getting one really soon!! :)

[rigrishracer22B]

ha ha good luck but I have an 11 turn and I have 88/17 If that helps but I change my pinion gear all the time because the tracks I run at..

[RControl Freak]

I never really messed around with pinion gears that much.....

[vaderbxman]

well, would I have to change the gearing if I raced off-road, mainly on dry dusty surfaces, and raced against my dad's nitro evader. I also want my motor to run fairly cool, so what do you guys suggest!! :)

[rigrishracer22B]

I would gear it to where it peaks out at the end of the longest straightaway but if it is dusty a smaller pinion would make the tires spin more.....I dont really know to be honest??.... :D

[vaderbxman]

Hmmm. Well I would like to be conservative with the gearing, and I would like to gain maybe 3-5 Mph out of the new motor, so maybe go down 3 or 4 teeth on the spur and maybe 1-2 teeth on the pinion? I'm thinking outloud here! :)

I would like to have a good gearing set-up so I will be able to clear this ramp (this is an actual picture of the jump I want to be able to clear, because right now I can just barely clear it with a fresh pack and a good head start. http://www.hobbyraceway.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=121

the jump is the closest set towards the camera, and you can browse through to get multiple views of the jump.

[redhatman]

whats the gap length on that ramp? It doesnt seem like it would be too hard. Just accelerate as quick as you can without slipping everywhere and you should be fine.

[vaderbxman]

Well, the ramp is tricky because there isn't much traction comming out of that turn. It's mostly dusty, sandy dirt right there, and the ramp doesn't actually lift you up very much. I have nailed that ramp alot of times, and had some really nasty wrecks too. Luckly I haven't broken anything, yet. :driving:

I thought a 12 turn motor would help me when the spring time rolls around and I can finally use those hole shot tires I bought wayyyyy back when. :cool:

[redhatman]

the only thing you can really do is get more speed or put an airplane wing with some controls on it.

[rigrishracer22B]

put a 6 turn motor in it with a 58/3 gearing and dont let off untill you hear glass and smell crap. :D :driving: :wave: :wave:

[vaderbxman]

the only thing you can really do is get more speed or put an airplane wing with some controls on it.

Haha, that's true. I hope when the dirt dries out, my holeshots will be able to grab and provide some traction! :D

[rigrishracer22B]

what kind of tires do you run now?

[vaderbxman]

I use the stocker Bow-ties, but I don't know the compound. The're OK tires, but they don't grip like the holeshots I had for my BX way back when........

[rigrishracer22B]

Thats what I always hear the holeshots grip better then bow ties

[RControl Freak]

put a 6 turn motor in it with a 58/3 gearing and dont let off untill you hear glass and smell crap. :D :driving: :wave: :wave:

damn, now that you said that, I'm gonna have to try it! :D

[rigrishracer22B]

LOL the only problem is they dont make a 3 tooth pinion not that I know of??? :confused: :)

[RControl Freak]

Step 1: get ANY pinion gear; Step 2: Get a dremel tool; Step 3: get to work! :teacher:

[vaderbxman]

Step 4: RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That would be cool to do once, until you broke something!! :)

[rigrishracer22B]

ha ha ha ha Im gonna go try it...seriously

[vaderbxman]

Hehe, let me know how many parts and bones you break!! J/k, have fun!! :driving:

[RControl Freak]

ha ha ha ha Im gonna go try it...seriously

I might second that notion..... :D

[rigrishracer22B]

Ok Bad Idea Dont Try This Without A Vise... :(

[vaderbxman]

Ok Bad Idea Dont Try This Without A Vise... :(

Hmm, so how many fingers did you lose? :huh:
Hope you're ok!!!! :D

[rigrishracer22B]

how many fingers none Im alright but it sho the pinion gear through the sheetrock... :eek:

[rigrishracer22B]

I had a dumbars attack :)

[vaderbxman]

:huh:

well, that makes perfect sence!!!! :roll2:

[RControl Freak]

no comment

[rigrishracer22B]

cmon everyone has them

[slotracer]

There doesnt seem to be any more evader pro ST's available anywhere. Is Duratrax coming out with a new model? Are they just dropping the Pro? It seemed like a great deal. Maybe too good?

[RControl Freak]

The Evader ST Pro is gone, discontinued, and as for a new model, the best we can do is keep our fingers crossed!

[vaderbxman]

Yeah, it doesn't make any sence to drop on of their hottest sellers just before Christmas, :huh: but I really am hoping for a re-vamped version of the Evader with all of the annoying kinks worked out of it and such!! :D

[RControl Freak]

yeah, like that problem with the front shocks leaking! THAT DRIVES ME CRAZY!!! ARGHHHHHHHHH!!!! :mad: :eek:

[vaderbxman]

You know, mine didn't leak (my old BX pro kit) and I fixed the problem with the rear ones leaking so bad with a new O-ring set. Worked like a charm, and they haven't leaked in almost a month!!

on a side note, I broke my bumper at the track today :huh: Of all the parts to break, especially with what I was doing to it, I had to break that. Good thing I have like 4 bumpers at the house. :D And I was able to race against my dad for the first time, because he was having problems with his crapped-out motor. So his pwns mine in the straights, but mine catches-up in the technical part of the track. And I was able to try out my holeshots too, and OMG they grip so good I think I could drive the truck upside down!!!

[rigrishracer22B]

Do you run the holeshots on all four wheels or just on the rear?

[vaderbxman]

Only on the rear, but I might want some fronts now because it pushes, rather than be tail-happy. I don't know thought, i'll have to look into it.

[RControl Freak]

Are holeshots better than Bow Ties? I've had really good luck with bow ties!

[vaderbxman]

Wow, Holeshots are a MAJOR inprovement over bow-ties. I was having trouble with the bow-ties I got, but after getting some holeshots for my BX, wow. I haven't turned a lap on those since I bought the Holeshots.

On a weird side note, I lost a pin to my CVD for about 3 minutes until my mom found it. Phew!!

[redhatman]

On a weird side note, I lost a pin to my CVD for about 3 minutes until my mom found it. Phew!!

I wish I could do that with the wheel nut that randomly came off of my hyper 7 while i drove it today.... I looked for at least 30 minutes I would say.

[vaderbxman]

Well, it was a stroke of luck, because all I knew was where I had lost power, and where I landed the jump, and before I could even bring my car back to the bench to turn it off and inspect what went wrong, my mom had already found the pin. Best tool in the toolbox!!!

I just read the review for the GT2 RTR, and I am sooooooooooooo getting one! :driving:

[RControl Freak]

I'm gonna slow down on buying stuff for now..... upgrade what I have; My uncle just came down with my Airtronics MX-3 that I "stole" off eBay for 60 bucks!