Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

[jstock]

Hello everyone!

I've been poking around the forums here for a while now and want to officially say hello. I used to have a Blackfoot over 10 years ago just to bash around and haven't had anything ever since. I'm looking forward to enjoying the hobby once again.

I just picked up an Evader and am pretty impressed so far, but I have some concerns. My differential is already grinding after 2 days and the servo is grinding as well. But overall it's expected from what I've been reading.

Also, I'm completely confused on my charging system. I've picked up a Duratrax IntelliPeak Mini Pulse Charger and (2) Shark 1500mAh packs. I am having problems getting full charges on the things. What amp rate should I be using on a peak charge and how long should it take? Should I discharge before every charge?

Anywho.......I'm glad I stumbled upon this site.

Here's the new toy:

[jstock]

edit below

[jstock]

Hello everyone!

I've been poking around the forums here for a while now and want to officially say hello. I used to have a Blackfoot over 10 years ago just to bash around and haven't had anything ever since. I'm looking forward to enjoying the hobby once again.

I just picked up an Evader and am pretty impressed so far, but I have some concerns. My differential is already grinding after 2 days and the servo is grinding as well. But overall it's expected from what I've been reading.

Also, I'm completely confused on my charging system. I've picked up a Duratrax IntelliPeak Mini Pulse Charger and (2) Shark 1500mAh packs. I am having problems getting full charges on the things. What amp rate should I be using on a peak charge and how long should it take? Should I discharge before every charge?

Anywho.......I'm glad I stumbled upon this site.

Here's the new toy:

[jstock]

For whatever reason when I went to edit my post it posted seperately. I have no clue what I'm doing here, yet. :rolleyes:

[Preston]

So here is a pic my brother took of me jumping my evader last night.

[AznJunkie]

Preston - Nice :D. So what parts did you break. Just kidding! :)

[pudder]

More like what parts didnt you break? :p

jstock- 4-5 amps is a good rate to use. Personally I use 5. My 1500 takes about 17 minutes to do a full charge from being dead @ 5A on a pulse charge mode.

Hope this helps.

[Preston]

If you can believe it, I haven't broken any parts yet (ok an antenna tube, and a chipped rim..) But no serious parts that would stop me from driving. I pretty much use this truck for jumping in the court you see there.

What you don't see in that picture is the 4 foot cardboard landing ramp that I land on. It's off the the left a few feet outside the picture. I try to do my jumps in a "controled" sort of way, so I can predict how the truck will land, and make sure its not going to be hard enough to break stuff.

I've got to admit though, This truck IS durable. I've missed my landings a few times, and the truck still held together.

It impressed my brother so much that after this picture was taken last night, he went on his computer and ordered and Evader for himself from tower!

[pudder]

Ya, I do have to say that is a really nice picture. The main thing about jumping is getting a good landing. :)

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
The main thing about jumping is getting a good landing. :)

I can vouch for that one!

Nice photography. Good jumpin :)

[jstock]

Hello everyone,

After 3 days at my folks house, thier driveway has turned my original tires into slicks. Anybody have any good recomendations for new tires to use on loose gravel? I'm thinking ProLine Dirt Hawgs.

Also I'd like to offer a recomendation for those who are interested in purchasing a Ready to Run vehicle. CHECK FOR LOOSE PARTS!!!! Both my rear shocks fell apart today because they weren't tightened all the way. Mass production assembly at it's best I suppose.

Another issue has risen regarding the servo. When I turn the wheels left at a stand still nothing happens but a retchid grinding noise. I fear the worst! Any suggestions on good replacement parts that don't strip out. LOL!!

Thanks!

Jay

[Preston]

I would recommend Dirt Hawgs too. I have them on all 4 corners of my truck. I picked them for 3 reasons:
1. Tread lasts quite a long time, even used on asphalt.
2. Works well both on-road, and off-road.
3. Slightly larger diameter gives the truck better ground clearance.

As for your servo, how long have you had the truck? Seems to me like you might have a bad servo to begin with. My stock servo still works fine, although its never been very torquey.

If I were you, personally I would first just try to replace it with an inexpensive Hobbico servo, for like $10 bucks. Might work fine for you, or you cold spend more and get a better, stronger servo. But I know I’d just replace it with a cheap one. I’ve never stripped servo gears yet in a servo.

[rcguy2477]

You need a metal geared servo. The stock servo is an s3003, and has plastic gears. A hitec 645mg or 625mg servo would be fine. If your not looking to spend $40 on a servo, get an HS-475HB servo.

625mg http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-625MG_Ultra_Speed/hs-625mg_ultra_speed.html

645mg http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-645MG_Ultra_Torque/hs-645mg_ultra_torque.html

475hb http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-475HB_Super_Pro_BB/hs-475hb_super_pro_bb.html

[geo8498]

I stripped out my stock steering servo pretty quickly. Replaced it with another Futaba 3003, and have been running it for about 6 months now with no problem.

As for the tires. I love the Gladiators. I have a set on my Associated RC10GT since March and there's still alot of life left in them. They work great on any surface.

[jstock]

Thanks everyone! I'll head down to the LHS and pick up some new parts.

[egdinger]

Can the stock speed control handle a speed gems pro 17 turn motor (forgot the name)?? if so what would a good spur/pinion combo be, thanks.

[guver]

You should just barely be able to get by with the sprint esc, especially if you are using 6 cell battery.

I usually use about 2-4 teeth higher than the number of motor turns with the stock 88 tooth spur for most bashing around the yard. (17 turns plus 3 would be stock gearing) Never any higher unless I want to make speed runs with small diameter tires.

[hardcoredriver]

Wat up?
Im geting a new D5 10t d for my evader
Heres my question... Will I fry the differential? My friend told me I could'nt because i dont have a stealth diff.
Keep in mind that I race...

Eric from NJ

[pudder]

You won't fry your diff unless you have it set so loose it slips, or so tight it ruins the balls and rings. However, you will probably fry many idler gears.

[rcguy2477]

How do so many people fry the idler gear? I have a 15t motor and i havnt fried any yet. Am i just lucky? The only part i have broken so far is the bumper.:confused:

[pudder]

Putting a lot of stress on it helps strip it. Not using the slipper is a major one. I stripped a few idlers with a stock motor, but i had the slipper locked because I was racing on carpet.

[TeamMishap]

Here's my newest Evader body. It's a ProLine Crowd Pleaser for the XXXT.

It's marbled red and blue with AlClad II Chrome.

Think it'd sell on E-bay?

[pudder]

I'm sure somebody would buy it. It is a nicely done body. Do you usually sell your bodies because I think you should start to, it's realy nice.

[TeamMishap]

The first Evader one (Colorado Avalanche) I did was just to see if I could do one. I did a simple Maxx body because my other one is hanging together by a thread. This one, I did as a favor that I got hosed on. $23 for the body and $14 for a spray can of Alclad. I don't always have time to tool around. I'm active duty in the Air Force, but on full time scholarship to get my Masters degree. Once school starts up again, I'll be lucky to play with a truck, let alone paint a detailed bod. LOL

I didn't destroy my Evader tranny with my Hacker B50 ;( With it being only 3033 rpm/v vs the 4200 rpm/v of the Lehner Basic, it doesn't explode the tranny. I guess somewhere between 21.8K rpm and 30.2K rpm is the tranny meltdown point. I think I liked the Lehner motor better, but the Hacker controller is definately the bomb.

[k_sw31]

Man thats an awesome body! I would love something like that for my mini cooper or T3... You should definatly be able to get some good dough for that on ebay though. :)

[TeamMishap]

If you'd like to see more pics...head to

www geocities com/mishap_jlm

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Originally posted by jstock

I just picked up an Evader and am pretty impressed so far, but I have some concerns. My differential is already grinding after 2 days and the servo is grinding as well. But overall it's expected from what I've been reading.


I think most of us missed the part about the differential grinding. I'm having the same problem with mine, it grinds a little under throtle. But when i take away throttle, it makes a horrible grinding noise. My gears are fine. Also, i took a look at the slipper/spur assembly, it was not also straight or out of true when you look at it like this [] it would go at an angle under throttle.

THanks! Matt

[rcguy2477]

My diff clicks when turning but not while going strait. I just got a rebuild kit, but i wont use it untill i absolutely need to.:D

[pudder]

Does it feel notchy too? Your balls are probably worn out, as with your rings.

[rcguy2477]

what do you mean by "notchy"? When i turn it just clicks, but it does work fine.

[pudder]

By notchy I mean when you turn your wheel, does it feel rough, not like everyhting is moving effeciently, ect.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Is it safe to run it as is? Or should i be careful and wait?

Thanks! Matt

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by pudder
Does it feel notchy too? Your balls are probably worn out, as with your rings.

Geez, worn out balls...better see a urologist and quit worrying about your diff. hehehe

[k_sw31]

Yeah man, proper health first!

[rcguy2477]

I thought i would tell you my racing experience with my evader.

Well when i got there, there were no other electric trucks, so i had to race with nitro trucks, including a tmaxx. The first heat, the motor needed to be trued really badly and it went really slowly. The secound main, i used a 13t monsters of touring motor, and got in second. The third, i also got in second. In the final main, since it was 10 mins long, i had to charge to batts. Well my older charger false peaked and i didnt notice, so for the first half of the race i was slow, but then i changed the battery and got back up with the people and finally came out in third. This may not seem that great but i was up against gas trucks that were fully hoped up.
Another good thing is that i didnt break anything.

[mj_bandit]

Im gonna be getting a Evader, What all do I need for Hop ups on it??????Does it have a Idler in it????? Does it come with a Aluminum one if it has one???? Does it have bearings in it???? Or am I gonna need to buy carriers, and bearings????? will the RPM ones work????? or does Duratrax only work with it????? I need some insight on it. Thanks.:p

[rcguy2477]

The evader has a plastic idler gear. I sall someone on another forum that made custom alluminum idlers. The evader has bearing so there is no need for replacing them. Get an aluminum front bulkhead or a jep rc package. The evader doesnt really have any places that need any real "upgrades".

[TeamMishap]

I put that body up on Ebay and have ZERO bids after 3 days. I think I may just cancel the auction. If anyone is interested in critiquing the ad, the auction is titled "Stars and Bars Crowd Pleazer Body for XXXT".

[mj_bandit]

O.. I don't need a Aluminum Idler for it???????? I want to go Brushless sooner or later in it..
:D

[rcguy2477]

you definetly will need a aluminum idler for brushless. The stock plastic one is prone to stripping under hard exeleration or while doing wheelies by going in reverse, then to forward.

[rcguy2477]

TeamMishap- I cant find the body on ebay, did you cancel it already? You might want to put a low starting bid on it. People usually wont bid on anything in the first few days that its on, but on the last day, they bid like crazy. A lot of times, the price may double in the last ten minutes.

[TeamMishap]

I closed the auction. I didn't want to sell it for next to nothing.

Saw something in the newest RCCA about rcuniverse having auctions. May try selling there.

[WVEvaderST]

While I was running my evader the other day I rolled it on asphalt and tore off the excess antenna wire that was out of the antenna holder. Is there somewhere that sells replacement antenna wires or do you just have to get the proper guage and cut a piece to the proper length and solder it. It seems to run fine the way that it is now.

[pudder]

If it runs fine the way it is now, you may as well leave it. Although your range might be decreased. If you do have any problems, you just need a wire, make sure it is the same kind of metal used on your reciever, most likely copper, and same gauge, cut a length equal to stock, and solder it onto the reciever chip board. It is easy to do, I have done it many times before. Just be careful when soldering on the chipboard though.

[TeamMishap]

When soldering the circuit board, use a needle tip on your iron. I tried using a regular tip and unsoldered something I wasn't supposed to. It was some tiny little square thing. The receiver still works without it.

When I tore my antenna, my LHS was out. I had an old computer mouse laying around. I cut that SOB open, pulled out one of the many strands and cut it to 22". It's thinner than stock, but works just fine. I was going to replace it once my new wire came in, but haven't needed to yet.

[Preston]

Ok, I have a problem that I cannot solve.

I changed the brushes on my Photon Speed, and now I keep breaking the springs that hold in the brushes.

I replaced them with standard standup style brushes, and they fit just fine.

Maybe they are too long, and the tension is busting the spring? It doesnt seem tight when I install the springs, but after 30 seconds of driving, the spring breaks. I have broken 2 springs so far, and I can't figure out why they are breaking.

Anyone able to help me?

[rcguy2477]

What springs are you using? The stock duratrax ones broke on me too. I switched to trinity springs and have not had a problem.

[Preston]

Yeah I'm using the stock springs.

Is it because my brush is too long and is putting the spring under too much force?

Pretty weak spring to break like that. I guess ill buy a few Trinity ones. Are springs universal to all motors? will a spring for a laydown brush work on a standup brush and viceversa?

[rcguy2477]

I believe they work on both. Those duratrax springs are cheap, i have broken one also.

[guver]

Preston,
Your comm probably has some runout to it and causing the brush to bounce. It will break springs also if they are discolored from being overheated. Take a look at your comm and even though you may have cleaned it , it may still need to be turned.

On the laydown/standup brushes, I believe that they are the same size, but the arc in the end of it is there to fit the comm. If you use the wrong one, the arc (curve) will be a quarter turn off and will not fit the comm right

[rcguy2477]

guver- He was asking if the springs will fit both motors, not the brushes.

[guver]

yes my bad, there are different springs, but I don't know if they'll fit each other.

[pudder]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
When soldering the circuit board, use a needle tip on your iron. I tried using a regular tip and unsoldered something I wasn't supposed to. It was some tiny little square thing. The receiver still works without it.

When I tore my antenna, my LHS was out. I had an old computer mouse laying around. I cut that SOB open, pulled out one of the many strands and cut it to 22". It's thinner than stock, but works just fine. I was going to replace it once my new wire came in, but haven't needed to yet.

I dont know what kind of reciever you have, but on my JR, I can unsolder the antenna wire quite easily and safely with a med tip Weller gun. I used some copper servo wire. :)

[dcrc]

Are the titanium king pins worth the extra $$ or is it better to put the money into aluminum knuckles and hubs?

[mj_bandit]

Anyone wanna buy my Evader,Or Trade it.. I dont like it really at all..:(

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by goodjerm
I have done some racing at the local track in my area and done quite well. No wins but several third and second place finishes (can't seem to beat all of the Losi XXX-T's).

So what are the Losi guys running inside that you aren't?

How much are the beating you by?

[goodjerm]

One of the losi guys is using a trinity d5 10t with a novak esc. I don't know what the others are using. I'm still using NiCd batteries, I haven't wanted to spend the money for 3,000 or 3,300 mah batteries. I'm using 1900 mah batteries and get just enough good run time to finish the race before my truck starts slowing down.

[mj_bandit]

Anyone got a AOL.. Yahoo... or MSN.. That has a Evader.. Im gonna need help..

Aol BKMJMJMJ

Yahoo Brett_kober

MSN B_k_2323

[pudder]

If you want to talk to me on MSN I could help you out with some stuff, mostly setup and such.

mikes_st@hotmail.com

[TeamMishap]

Bumping up to even unmatched GP 3300s will be like night and day for ya. You'll never know how ya lived without them. You can get 12 cells for about $65 delivered, you just have to build them.


Originally posted by goodjerm
One of the losi guys is using a trinity d5 10t with a novak esc. I don't know what the others are using. I'm still using NiCd batteries, I haven't wanted to spend the money for 3,000 or 3,300 mah batteries. I'm using 1900 mah batteries and get just enough good run time to finish the race before my truck starts slowing down.

[TeamMishap]

I'm putting my body on the Bay again. I trimmed it. Maybe it'll sell now.

[rcguy2477]

I just made a new site that wil have some rc stuff on there
Right now it has a short review of my evader.
http://www.geocities.com/rcguy2477/Evader.html

btw teamishap, the pictures do not come up for me on ebay, so some people may not be able to see it which may be a reason there are no bids

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by rcguy2477


btw teamishap, the pictures do not come up for me on ebay, so some people may not be able to see it which may be a reason there are no bids

Well HECK!! Wonder why? It shows fine when I view it. Does the geocities link show up?

[rcguy2477]

Now the pictures show up, but when i first open it, it still shows boxes with red x's for a couple mins. This may be because i have dial up

[Preston]

Well I finally broke my first real part last night. It's the front hinge pin brace. It must be a weak design, because in the same crash, the same part on my brothers Evader broke too, and in the exact same location, right at the hole.

We had a head on collision, breaking both our front hinge pin braces. I think this is definatley a good item to replace with the aluminum hop up.

BTW it was the first day my brother has owned his Evader, and already a broken part for him. I have owned mine for at least two months.

Question: How do you remove E-clips without breaking them?

[rcguy2477]

Try the jep rc hing pin brace set, they are cheaper than the duratrax alluminum one and is just as good. http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

I just use my fingernail to pry the e-clips off, non have ever broken for me.

[goodjerm]

Preston,

I have broken several hinge pin braces before I upgraded to aluminum. I used the Duratrax part before in knew about Jeps. The Jeps part is also excellent, and you can also get a front bumper and rear hinge pin brace from him.

I use the smallest flathead screwdriver that is in a precision screwdriver set and insert it into the one of the recessed areas of the e-clip to remove them. I suggest buying some replacement e-clips because if you lose one, you'll probably never find it again.

I hope this helps.

[The_In_Kid]

dropped in a 19Turn chameleon 2 last night at 2AM then drove it outside neighbours came out wondering what the heck was zipping by so fast...

one day i'll drop a 16 turn :D

[johnhardy1]

Ok Im getting an Evader ST in a few days.
I already have a couple 2400mah packs for it ! Honestly, I have not read this entire thread yet (It's BIG!).

Im wondering if anyone has compiled a list of bodies that will fit ?

And what about tires, just "some" Losi's and ProLine Dirt Hawgs ?

I know I shouldnt expect it but Im merely hoping someone has put together this info.

Thanks !

[pudder]

For bodies, ones I know of that are a direct fit are the XXT and XXXT bodies. You can put any body you want on the truck, but you have to make custom body mounts to do that.

As far as I know, Losi and Associated rims will fit on the truck, and any 2.2 tires from any brand should fit.

[johnhardy1]

Wow that was fast ! I saw a pic earlier of of a Beetle body I thought looked good but have no idea . Do you or anyone else ? Thanks for the info about Associated, I didnt know their stuff fit. Thanks !

[goodjerm]

I use TRC wheels for Losi trucks on my evader. I also use TRC tires, but Pro_Line also makes wheels and tires to fit Losi trucks (same as the evader).

I just stick to the evader bodies. I buy the clear evader body so I can paint it myself. It is pre-cut and trimmed to make it a little easier, but it doesn't include window masks. Just be careful not to buy a body made to fit a nitro truck, the shock towers are further back so the body may not fit correctly.

[thetimboroni]

Hey all,
This is my goodbye speech I guess. I'm gonna be going nitro now, and due to my cash limits, I can't have two cars at once, so of course the electric Evader must go. I really want to say thanks to all the guys on this forum that supported me and helped me out with all my questions. In saying that, you guys on this forum get first dibs on my car for sale to whoever wants it.

-Duratrax Evader ST w/ stock body
-Stock radio system
-Duratrax Intellispeed 12+ Turn ESC w/ Reverse
-3 motors (13t Racers Edge, 14t Speed Gems, 20t stock, all have extra brushes)
-Brush break in oil, shock oil, bearing lube, Comm. stick
-5 batteries (2 Shark 1500, 2 Powermaxx 2400, 1 SMC 3200)
-Duratrax Pirahna Peak Charger
-Titanium Turnbuckles
-Astro Flight 6/7 cell discharger
-4 Dirt Dawg tires with wheels (also have stock wheels and tires)

I have some stuff like extra gears, etc. but those are the big hitters. I have at least $550 into this car, and am looking for best offer. Anyone interested... post away!

Thanks again for the help over the year,
TIM

[rcguy2477]

TeamMishap, how much did you ever sell that body for? I would have bought it but im broke.

[TeamMishap]

The body never sold. I started it at $23 which is what I paid for the body.

I think RC Driver may put it in their readers rides section in a month or two. Maybe then it will sell.

BTW...got my BL E-maxx in Xtreme RC readers ride section for Oct.

[TeamMishap]

Here's a candidate for dumb question of the month...

Brushless is destroying my spur gears now. I wanna go down to 32 pitch external gearing because the teeth are beefier.

So the stock spur is 88T, pinion 20T, so this is 4.4:1 ratio. The Kimbrough 32 pitch spurs have the same diameter center as the stock Evader spur. I don't run a dust cover, so I think a 60T 32P should fit without rubbing anything (my Emaxx 72 toother doesn't clear the turnbuckles) and a 12-13T 32P pinion should squeak in.

Is this stupid?

[bohemus]

I just love to test the limits of this car.

Today I dropped in a Speed Gem Pro 11 turn double with a
7-cell gp3300 high number pack. I kept my gearing down with a
15 tooth pinion......... or so I thought.

Everything seemed to be going fine, slipper was working and the
car was EXTREMELY fast...
Then my luck ran out...klink, clatter, buzz. I totally roasted the
differential gear, ripping all of the diff balls through the wall of the diff gear! The car would not even move!

I suppose the lesson to be learned is.....have fun, drive fast, and buy extra diff rebuild kits!!
:D

[TeamMishap]

I did the same a while back. I put pics of my diff in here somewhere.

There's someone who customs metal idlers and mods AE diffs to fit the Evader. I haven't put mine in yet, as I hate to mess with the tranny unless it's broken.

If interested, I'll try to find his email addy. Everyone highly recommends his stuff.

[orbitron]

Originally posted by johnhardy1
Im wondering if anyone has compiled a list of bodies that will fit ?
Thanks !

I have put many different bodies on my Evader. If you like the look of stadium trucks, losi and duratrax will be fine. However, I suggest you get inventive. Put a porsche body on it didn't you always want a porsche for offroading? (not a hack at the cayenne) Check out the bodies I have put on mine.
willys (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/willys.html)
corolla (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc.html)
my favorite (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini.html)
pt cruiser (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/ptcruiser.html)
Go here for universal conversion kit. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/universal.html)

[one_mean_rc10gt]

How does the evader compare to the rustler for bashing/jumping?

I came across a good deal on one and I may buy it.


Thanks

[1tuffRC10]

rc 10 gt, I've got a Evader and it's by far the most truck for the money I've ever bought. They are on back order right now so if you want one and you have found one, get it. Stock motor and steering servo is junk but the rest of it is tough as my GT. We race this thing against losi and AE and it's is close to as good if not better. It just doesn't break, unless you do something stupid. LOL

[orbitron]

Yeah go with the evader if it is a good deal. It won't break unless you run into something cemented (or frozen) into the ground. My friend justed picked up a rusty and I was amazed at the things it should of had but didn't.
1. No foam in the tires
2. non adjustable shocks (evader has threaded shocks)
3. no servo saver
4. no bearings (bushings only)

Those four things will run you around $100 to get and the price difference between the evader and the rusty is not that much.

Plus the stock rusty body is butt!

[shadmaster4]

hey, i just picked up an evader for $65 roller, with lots of spares...Is that good? Anyways, can someone give me a link or tell me the e-mail addy for the person who makes aluminum spur gears and idlers? Thanks- Zack

[rcguy2477]

I finally found out why i wasnt getting an email every time someone posted on this forum, they changed it to v.4.
That 65$ evader is a pretty good price. What all is the guy giving to you? It is a tough truck and can be just as fast as the t4 and xxxt. O, btw, i can get an xxxt for 60$, and it comes with some upgrades and a nice body, is it worth it?

[orbitron]

rcguy - dive dive dive! the losi xxx-t is the mack daddy of racing trucks. if you don't get it you are simply crazy.

[shadmaster4]

if you don't get the XXXT for $60, i will...lemme know his e-mail address.!!!!!!!!1

[rcguy2477]

I think the xxxt sold. I wanted it but my dad probably wouldnt have let me get it. Instead i will be getting a set of 3300's and a reedy kr motor. I really want to test my evader out. I have been racing it for a couple months now and nothing has broken. That was with an 13t. I now usually get 2nd, the guy that always beats me is older and has more money to spend so of coarse his car is faster. O yeah, talk about a deal, i got a whole bunch of parts from pudder, basically a whole evader for 25$. Thanks pudder!!!

[iamcast0rtr0y]

Is anyone running a 17x2 motor with the stock Evader ESC? How is it holding up? Should I do this? How much does runtime decrease?

[shadmaster4]

what tooth pinion should I use with my p2k in the evader? I tried a 17tooth and a 20tooth, but they won't reach the spur! Only a 23tooth will, and it makes the p2k way overgeared....Help!

[1tuffRC10]

shadmaster, you must have the motor mount bolts in wrong. We have run a P2K with a 18 pinion and 87 spur.

[rcguy2477]

shadmaster, there are four holes in the motor. Try screwing the mounting screws in different holes.

[Crash104936221]

i run a 81t spur and a 20t pin and its clost but i still have the room to make it work

TeamMishap could u dig up that e-mail addy to the one who makes metal idlers and better diff's

thanks
Joe

i run the 17x1 speed gem on the stock ESC and its working good so far

[rcguy2477]

I will really be testing the limits of my evader pretty soon. I plan on getting around a 13t kr modified. Thank god for a slipper, if there wasnt one, my whole gearbox would be fried. O, i am also getting some "matched" 3300 batteries, they are 30$ for 6. I am hoping that i can get some pictures soon, so i can show you all my evader.

[TeamMishap]

My spur/pinion set up is now 32P. I took a Traxxas 32P spur, lined up the centers, and drilled two holes so I could bolt the slipper on. Works like a charm.

Anyone interested in some Robinson odd toothed pinions?

[rcguy2477]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Anyone interested in some Robinson odd toothed pinions?

For free?

[Crash104936221]

i assume there 48p since u swithed to 32p

what there counts?

Joe

[Crash104936221]

what is the tranys ratio?

anyone have the exact #'s?

thanks
Joe

[1tuffRC10]

Crash, I haven't checked for sure but it's close to the AE stealth I think.

FYI, I'm taking a Evader to the Region 3 ROAR Electric race this weekend, with 2400 NiCd's and a couple of Monster 3 Pro motors. Haven't got any 3300's but I've got some 3000 GP's just haven't put them together. The stock shocks came apart inside and my LHS doesn't have anything to fix them so I put my GT shocks on with the resivours. Anyone got a good set up for this thing? Glad we are going to practice Friday.

[shadmaster4]

hey, after i took my evader to the beach...(not in the sand, but in the parking lots), I decided to take it apart to clean...It was running great when i got back, but after i put it together, it seems like the diff is slipping... If i recall correctly, before i went i think i tried to replace the bushings in the diff to bearings...Did the stock evader diff have bushings? I think the bearings i put in are too wide...but the car ran great while at the beach? If i give it gas...just a little, it will go, but when i give it a little more it gives a sound....The slipper shaft and slipper spins....but the diff seems to slip...and i even tried it as tight as possible...Help? Also, my spur gear is white...what color is the stock spur, and how many teeth..If i counted correctly my white spur had 81 teeth. Help? Thanks- Zack

[rcguy2477]

Tighten the diff a little more. Just make sure that is isnt the slipper. The stock evader spur is 88t and is black. you might have gotten a newer version evader.

[1tuffRC10]

Shad, make sure the axle isn't spinning in the wheel due to a broken pin or misalignment. Had this happen a race or two ago. But the diff sounds like it may be loose as well. Just didn't want to see you tear it all apart just to find a broken wheel pin!

[rcguy2477]

Did everyone see that they are making new graphite parts for the evader? They are making a new rtr called the evader pro that is fully upgraded. It will probably be the best rtr out. They are going to offer the graphite parts seperately. They include a arms, shock towers, chassis, battery brace and servo brace. This should really help us people that race our evaders. Lets hope that the parts are cheap. If not, i might just get the whole kit.

[thetimboroni]

Hello again,

I recently pulled out the Evader in hopes to run him a little this weekend now that my Summer job is over with. We have begun to build a track behind my friends house, and it seems to be coming along very well. Anyways, I took Evader off the shelf, plugged in my new 3300 battery, and started running it. About one minute into the run, the wheels stopped turning but I could hear the motor spinning. The pinion and spur were meshing very nicely, so I took it a step further, into the transimission. Everything was intact there as well...nothing stripped, nicely meshed, etc. I put it back on in hopes that maybe the transmission just needed a little bit of fiddling with and would run. Nope :rolleyes: So now I try it without the back wheels on. The dogbones punch perfectly right when I hit the trigger. I put the wheels back on, and now they don't spin...
I fiddled with the slipper and diff adjustments for a good while, miserably failing.

If anyone has had this problem and/or knows a solution, please let me know.

Thanks,
TIM

[1tuffRC10]

Tim, when you took the tranny apart, did you check the inside part of the diff gear? Sounds like the gear is burnt out. In other words, the diff b.a.l.l.s have heated up and melted the center out of the gear. Take off the spur cover and hold the truck down so the rears cannot turn. Then try to turn the slipper gear. If the slipper shaft turns but the outdrives don't, the problem is inside the gear box. Check the diff adjuster first before taking the box out. you can snug it down then do the afore mentioned test again. E mail me if you want RC10RULES@aol

BTW Evader finished second and seventh at the region 3 race this weekend. Not bad out of 16! It was the first big electric race for both of us. I don't think some of the drivers liked getting beat by a Duratrax. Our gang from the local track had 6 out of 7 in the A counting the 2 EVADERS. LOL We INVADED Savanha Great trucks!

[shadmaster4]

timboroni, that is exactly what i am talking about...exact same thing...every looks good, and with the wheels off the dogbones spin great, but when the tires are on it sucks! Its like someone suddenly screwed my car! WE NEED to find the problem...I would doubt the balls are fried...How could they work one run, crap out the next? No way.... We need some help or i am seriously smoked up. LOL

[1tuffRC10]

Have ya'll took apart the diff and checked the diff gear?:confused:

[shadmaster4]

I have thousands of times...Maybe I can take a picture of the diff gear...I hope i still have room on my sever since my camera takes 4megapixel pictures......

[thetimboroni]

oh yea I've taken it apart lots too just to double check.. or triple check.. or quadrouple check....etc. :p
Anyways, I've seen nothing wrong, all the balls are in their place and the grease in there seems fine as well...

[1tuffRC10]

There must be a pin or gear stripped or broken somewhere. Try the test I mentioned earlier and see where the movement stops. If the axels are turning inside the wheels then the problem is in the wheels or wheel pins. If the outdrives and axels aren't turning then it has to be in the gear box. In other words if the slipper shaft is turning and the outdrives are not. The only other thing I could think of is that the diff is too loose. There's not much else it could be but I haven't been inside a Evader gear box yet. They are all pretty much the same. E mail or IM me if you want.

[shadmaster4]

i gave up..i just bought a whole new evader tranny on e-bay for $22. It had a black spur gear...I have a white smaller one, maybe thats why it didn't work or maybe it was 64pitch?

[goodjerm]

Does anyone know if spur gears for the stealth tranny will work on the evader? I heard they might, but I want to see if anyone has tried it. Also, what about other tranny gears?

[1tuffRC10]

goodjerm, it probably would work but they are different pitch. If you changed the pinion to the same pitch it would work fine. Robinson spur gears seem to work just fine in my truck. Even with 3300's.

[djhn9]

I just bought a used Evader ST for my brother-in-law for a birthday present. I've been having a problem w/ the steering. Every time I drive it, it won't center itself and I have to readjust the trim. I've replaced the servo, and the part of the steering that attaches to the servo thinking that one of them was stripped, but no luck

Does anybody have any suggestions. I don't know anything about this kind of steering, so could there be some kind of adjustment to be made? If anybody has any ideas PLMK,..... I have to get this fixed by Saturday for his B-day. Thanks!!

:D

[rcguy2477]

the problem is probably the servo arm. the stock one is ment for futaba servos. If you have a different servo in there you will need to make an arm that fits correctly.

[shadmaster4]

are you ajusting the servo arm or the knobs on the radio?

[djhn9]

it had a Duratrax servo at first and i put a Hobbico on it. I have been adjusting the trim about every 5 minutes. Is there another way to adjust? And how would I go about making an arm to fit?

BTW,...... thanks for the help:D

[1tuffRC10]

I believe the Hobbico servo is made by Futaba as well. Is the steering moving freely without the arm attached?

[djhn9]

It's steering freely w/or w/o arm attached. it just won't center itself. I have no experience with this kind of steering at all. I notice the threaded thumb wheel on part of the servo saver,..... what's this for? :rolleyes:

This steering is definitely throughly confusing me.

Once again ........ thanks for the input

[1tuffRC10]

That knurled nut is the adjustment for the servo saver. Too tight and it'll strip gears on the servo. Too loose and it'll drive sloppy.

[orbitron]

I don't know if this will help but...

When I bought my Hitec servo it seemed to work fine when I was holding it, but when I drove my truck it wouldn't center anymore. I found out that I had the wrong servo arm on it. The output gear didn't mesh with the arm perfectly and so when it was under load the arm twisted on the output gear and center wasn't center anymore.

I bought an associated parts tree and used an arm off of that that was specifically for my servo.

Who'd have thought that servo output gears wouldn't be universal.

[rcguy2477]

I used the red servo arm that came with the servo. Just cut off the extra arms on it so it will fit. The hobbico arms are different than the futaba i am pretty sure.

[1tuffRC10]

Oops, I thought that Hobbico servos were made by Futaba like the ones that come with the evader. If in doubt about the arm, just count the gaps in the teeth in the arm and the teeth on the servo. There are several different types of servos out there that use different arms. However the stock stuff is Futaba.

[rcguy2477]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
If in doubt about the arm, just count the gaps in the teeth in the arm and the teeth on the servo.

now we arnt trying to waist this guys time are we? I didnt even attempt to do that because there are so many notches. I am sure someone around here can tell you for sure

[djhn9]

The only problem is that........... this was originally happening w/ the duratrax servo...... that's why I changed to the hobbico.........

[orbitron]

OK...
My list of checks.
1. Remove servo and turn it on. Is it centered? If not do so by removing arm and setting it to as near straight up and down as possible (make sure Tx is also centered)
2. Make sure tie rods are even. Count the threads if necessary.
3. Make sure servo saver is nestled in the V.
4. Electronics glitching????
5. I give up! :confused:

[djhn9]

I'm gonna be out of town until Saturday afternoon, but if anybody has anymore ideas, please ....... please post it. I'll have about 3 hours after I get back until I have to give this to my bro-in-law.

Once again......... thanks everybody for the help:D

[goodjerm]

you might even want to try changing the crystals in your tx/rx. sometimes the specific channel you are running might have a little interference and a change in frequency might stop any glitching.

i have also tried to put a hitec servo in my evader, but the output shaft on the hitec does not match the standard (futaba/duratrax) servo. the only arm that will actually work properly without any binding is the original servo arm that comes with the truck combined with a duratrax (futaba or hobbico, they're all the same) servo. anything else just doesn't seem to fit right.

[1tuffRC10]

goodjerm, you said it. They posted that he replaced the servo for the same problem. I would try another servo or hook that servo up to a known good reciever. Never know, it may even be a trim pod on the radio going out.

I've mounted a JR servo in my evader and the arm is a little flimsy. But someone else on here has the right idea I've got a GT arm for a JR leftover from my GT because I use a Futaba servo in it. Not sure if it'll work but I'll let u know.

rcguy, not trying to waste anybody's time. Would you count those teeth before spending more money on parts or driving to the hobby shop then looking dumb?;)

[1tuffRC10]

Tired of putting the little pins back in the universals in the stock axels? For twenty bucks the Nitro Evader CVD's will bolt right in.

[shadmaster4]

Sweet!!!!!!I can pull wheelies on command, without going backwards on my evst! WIth a 19turn double ORion Rush, 17tooth pinion, and the stock black evst spur! ITs soo sweet
I better watch out so i don't strip the tranny! Hehe this is so sweet. I have never gotten a stadium truck to wheelie!

[corvettekilla18]

Hey, I use an airtronics MX-3 radio and a 94102z servo. it gives a little more than 50 oz/in but it works a whole lot better than the stock one. FM is truly a must for any RC vehicle....

[1tuffRC10]

That's a little overkill for a radio on a Evader ain't it?;)

[Crash104936221]

1tuffRC10 That tip on universals is EXACTLY what i have been looking for i am sick of throwing shafts
**edit** just looked them up there 1.2mm shorter and 0.2mm thicker **

as for servo stuff i did notice that when i used the supplyed arm with my S3010 i didnt have "all" my steering put in the stock arm and all is good! but im also interested in geting the servo to center as i have this problem about 1 in every 3 packs i run

futaba S3010
SPECS: Speed: 0.16 sec/60 degrees at 6.0V
Torque: 91 oz-in (6.5kg-cm) at 6.0V

Crash

[1tuffRC10]

Not sure what u mean by shorter. When we put them side by side, they looked identical in length.

[orbitron]

I threw a pin in my universals once...
After that I put a little heat shrink tubing around the u-joint... never again! I'm always in it for the cheapest fix!

Speaking about cheapest fix, I had four 1800 stick packs and I wanted my truck to be faster so I split one pack up and made three seven cell packs, and it is definitely a different truck!
I have three spare cells now maybe I should have made them 8 cell packs.

[shadmaster4]

What do you gear the evader ST, on lower turn mods? I have a 19turn, 15turn, 12 turn, and a 11turn. What pinion would you reccommend for the 15turn? Thanks- Zack

[rcguy2477]

I run a 15t for my 13t kr and that is a little high. For your eleven, i would say about a 12t pinion. I would say a good thing to go by would be one tooth higher than the turn.

[goodjerm]

I use a 11t speed gem with a 17t pinion and stock spur. It's fast, and I still get 7-8 minutes run time on 1900 mah nicd batts.

[rcguy2477]

What 11t do you use? With my kr, it goes really fast and gets hot, and its on a 15t pinion.

[goodjerm]

i use a trinity speed gem 11T-triple. the motor gets hot, but it's never broken any springs and caused the commutator any damage. i also use dean's ultra plugs on the battery and motor wires with 13 guage wires. i have fried too many standard connectors with this setup. i also use the duratrax 8-turn esc, and it always stays cool.

[rcguy2477]

if i were you, i would check the brushes for any discoloration. Most likely there is some if you run it hard.

[shadmaster4]

I use a speedgems 11turn...with a 17tooth...whoops just lost that pinion (dumb grub screw), so now a 20tooth...probably not gonna use that anymore.... and a Racer Ex no-limit esc...

[goodjerm]

i make sure to use trinity hard serrated brushes with trinity heavy springs. I average 17-20 packs for a set of brushes. clean them often! i also tried the stock 20t pinion at first, it was real fast, but only for about 2-3 minutes of run time. way over-geared.

[TeamMishap]

I found this pic of the ST Pro with all of it's lovely graphite.

I wrote to Duratrax about it, but they were mum.

http://www.swiss-rc.ch/2003/2003_09_13_duratrax.php

[rcguy2477]

Another day at the races...
Something is stripped or partly striped. When accelerating har(13tkr), i hear some grinding noises. My differential also slips when i have tightened it, and it loosens during the race
heres my best lap time and average speed in the lap...
15.157sec. 29.689mph as you can see, my car is fast

[Punisher911]

Is there somewhere I can get a list of which parts are interchangeable with other brands. I thought I seen somewhere that alot of the XXXT parts are the same.

[Punisher911]

Sorry, XXT not the XXXT. So far, I only know the Losi rims fit.

[thetimboroni]

Regarding interchangable parts w/ the XXT:

With my experience I have only had to buy a new front suspension arm and a front shock tower. With a little bit of drilling, the front arm works fine. The shock tower needs to modding at all, it just fits fine and it's a little sturdier (at least that's what I noticed).

TIM

[Punisher911]

I (me and my girls) spent some good time today running the car at our parking lot with ramps. I've been running monster trucks for so long, I forgot how good a ST handles. Very forgiving when hitting the jumps awkard. However, the front rims are so out of round they actually bounce up and down coming off the ground when the trucks at speed. My wife was driving the ST and I was on the EMaxx, we had a blast. Can't wait until we get our T3. I can smoke the ST with the EMAxx on 7's. Didn't even need 2nd gear, but because I have front and rear spools in the maxx, I had a harder time cornering because the maxx spinsout. Made it even. I hate the lack of braking on the ST. Expecially when the girls are driving. I can front flip the EMaxx with the brakes.(I know the 4WD helps) But still, need more brakes. I will probably get some good stock motors for the EVST and T3 also,because on my stampede, a Green Machine 2 was much better than the Stinger20T. Seemed like better run time also, probably just a more efficient motor than those POS 20T's. Which reminds me, getting some long runs off my sport 3000's. About them brakes, maybe a better ESC?

[rcguy2477]

If you gear it lower, it will have better brakes.
Does the xxt transmission fit the evader? I may get a brushless system, and the evader diff is not smooth at all.

[The Modfather]

Hello.

First post here. This seems to be a very good resourse for all things RC, and I'm glad I found it.

Anyhow, I have read this entire thread, as I am close to purchasing a DuraTrax Evader ST. I have some very big concerns at this time, however.

I used to run RC10's and RC10T's 8 years ago - er - maybe even MORE....bleh! Well, the kid is older now, and I wanted to get back into runnin a little bit - but without spending the thousands of dollars that I put into the hobby back before I was married :)

The DuraTrax Evader called out to me - I have been doing a bunch of research on it, and I'd say that overall, it's pretty well rated considering the low cost.

After reading this thread however, I do have some concerns. First, I never experienced any issues with the Associated "Stealth Trannies" in the past. In this thread, there have been a number of references to the tranny / slipper / and a terminology that is new to me - "idlers" (what are these?) It seems to me that the tranny on the DuraTrax is less than durable - I am hoping that someone can shed some light on this situation for me - I play hard, and dont' want this thing to break on day 1.

To those that have the Evader ST, a couple of questions.

1. Besides electronics, what should be upgraded immediately (if anything?)
2. What kind of issues should I 'expect' to see? I only plan to run this thing on "hard pack red clay" dirt - and probably safe to say that it'll never see asphalt. I sure as hell ain't gonna "baby" it, but I'm gonna drive with a little more discression than I have in the past :)


Thanks for taking the time to read this post!!!

MF

[1tuffRC10]

We are running stock 27 turn motors with 3300 matched race packs in stock truck. The only problem I see with the Evader gear box is that it's not holding up to mod motors. I don't know how the slipper was set in these trucks they are talking about in this forum with the mods but that could be their problem as far as tearing out the trannies. Other than that, it needs the aluminum front brace. Scrap the steering servo as well. GT wheels fit on the rear of the Evader great. Right at the 13 inch limit for stock ROAR racing. For the price, the Evader ST still is the best by far. Good race truck too. I've bought two now!

[orbitron]

Get the Evader! The reason I'm saying this is because out of the box you cannot get anything better unless you get a Matt Francis or Associated ultra team pro super crazy 60,000 dollar truck.

If you need anything at all I agree with 1tuffrc10 the alum hinge pin brace. Don't buy the Duratrax one though buy this one. (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/home.html) It is much cheaper and much better with the alum bumper.

The idler is the middle gear in the tranny and it is only a problem if go to a motor that has less than ~15t. If your doing that though your crazy in the first place, and a weak idler is the least of your concerns!:D

The only things I really added to mine are alum c-hubs (for curb run ins) and the hinge pin brace, and a Losi XX-T front shock tower (graphite). Duratrax is releasing a pro model soon and it should prove to hang with the big boys. Get it and you'll have an AMAZING truck.
check out this little vid.
http://web.aubichon.com/evader/may23/twocars.avi

Oh yeah... Any wheel designed for losi XXX-T will fit on the Evader nice and slick. And bodies as well.

[The Modfather]

Thanks for all the input guys! A few hop-ups were mentioned, and I'd like to include these into my ride. Does anyone have some suggestions on where to purchase hop-ups from - online?

[1tuffRC10]

I made my own front brace anyway. The new one didn't come in in time for a race!

[goodjerm]

i agree with everyone elso about needed upgrades. The aluminum hing pin brace is a must. The duratrax model is good, but more expensive than the jep/rc mentioned. The jep brace is also available with an aluminum front bumper for about the same price as the duratrax brace alone.

As for the tranny, I have been running an 11t motor for about 4 months now with no problems whatsoever! I make sure the slipper clutch and differential are always adjusted properly and have never stripped an idler gear (middle gear of the tranny). I do avoid trying to do wheelies by dirving in reverse then forward. I use a racing esc w/o reverse anyway.

The wheels and tires I use are from TRC and are made for the Losi XXT and XXXT. I hope this helps. The only trucks that hace beeten me on a cosistant basis are losi trucks, many of them graphite.

[The Modfather]

Great information!

Thanks to everyone that has posted here. I must admit that I was very skeptical at first when I saw the Evader. I was a HUGE Associated fan-boy. But it seems that there is a huge following, and great support for this product. I am very eager to get the goodies now!

Can someone offer a suggestion for a lid? I don't want to use the stocker that comes with is - er - as I can't give it my own special touch :(

[goodjerm]

duratrax actually makes an unpainted version of the evader st body that is pre-cut and trimmed. you can find it a towerhobbies.com. also, pretty much any body for the losi XXT and XXXT will fit. be careful not to get one for nitro trucks, the shock tower is further back on the gas trucks so the bodies won't fit.

[kitty]

Hey guys. Again, it's been a while. I've been working way too much lately and doing a lot of house repairs so I haven't had time for the forums.

As well, I've also spent quite a few hours reading up on nitro buggies. I now have taken the proverbial plunge into 1/8 buggies with the purchase of an Ofna Ultra MBX Pro (eBay great deal - a lot less than Tower's price). I've yet to have time to break in the engine, but from everything I've read, I'm prepared.

With all the above and having my E-Pede for E-bashing, I've decided it's time to either sell the Evader or do a few mods to make it into a sedan. Thus, I likely will be vacating this forum for good.

It's been a great ride with some of you guys, especially those who provided mod, hop-up help and advice on my Evader. The Evader has been a great basher, but the MT and NB (nitro buggy) bug bit me big time. I've had a lot of fun with the EVST and with some of you guys. I'll miss the latter a lot.

Adieu wakka doo,
kitty

[KG8FF]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Here's my newest Evader body. It's a ProLine Crowd Pleaser for the XXXT.

It's marbled red and blue with AlClad II Chrome.

Think it'd sell on E-bay?

Definately !!

[TeamMishap]

The body never sold. I set the minimum bid at $22, just to cover the cost of the body. It'll probably be in issue 2 of RC Driver, then maybe I'll try again.

[TeamMishap]

Xtreme RC mag confirmed the upcoming graphite Evader and parts! WOOHOO! Derek said its a lot stiffer. I'm going to have to hold off breaking anything until the graphite stuff comes out.

[rcguy2477]

I have a question for everyone, what is the lowest turn motor you have used in your evader? And what is the lowest turn motor you have used with out stripping the idler?
The reason i am asking is because i have ran 15t, 13t, and 11t motors in my evader without a problem and then i hear people strip idlers with 15+t motors.
The only problem i have had is that the hole that the idler shaft goes in became elongated because of all the pressure.

[Punisher911]

Sorry, can't answer that. However, I just did get a second EVST. The kids will have some fun racing tomorrow afternoon. Man, the brakes on these suck. I had to grind away a little material on the rims of this one also. They were rubbing the steering knuckle. I'll probably be getting some P2K2 pros for them soon. Stronger magnets might help the braking. (a little more speed never hurts either) Parking lot, wood ramps, lunch and a few excited kids, this will be great.

[Punisher911]

One more thing. When did you guys adjust your dif for the first time. I have a few packs through my first EVST and don't notice any more whining (squeeling) from when it was new. Should I just adjust it anyways, because it does have about 3 3000 mAh packs through it?

[rcguy2477]

Dont let the diff. slipp, the slipping should be done with the slipper. I would adjust yours, tighten it up as much as possible, then back off 1/8 of a turn.

[rcguy2477]

I just got a brushless system for my evader. Hopefully, i will be able to run it tommorow, because it was raining today. I tried it out and there is tons of torque and rpm. And so far there are no striped gears.

[RCGuru1]

If you adjust the diff properly on your EVST you will not have problems. Most ppl who are stripping are keeping their slippers too tight. I run mine hard as well as both my kids and I've never had anything break yet. I did strip an idler gear when I first got the truck because you have to set the slipper looser than I do on my Matt Francis xxxt.

[Bassman00]

This is confusing me. I'm new to R/C and the Evader was a great intro. The manual suggested tightening the diff after a few packs. I checked it after 3 packs and it was plenty tight. However, my Evader still squeels or whines. The slipper seems pretty tight too. The performance of the Evader seems just fine as she gets up and goes. If it is suffering, I'm not noticing it.

As this is my first post (I've been lurking a little while) I just want to thank everyone for posts and help.

Also, how does one go about changing the setup? Are there any tools or jigs to use to get the toe in, camber, etc set right?

Thanks,
PaulD

[Punisher911]

Just periodacly check your diffs tightness. That's what I'm going to do. Every couple of packs, I'm going to tighten it and back off the required 1/8 turn.

[goodjerm]

As far as I can tell, the suspension set-up from the factory is pretty good. I have never had to adjust toe or camber at any corner. I did replace the shock oil with 30wt and put the white 'soft' springs on. This eliminated any bouncing off of big jumps and reduce bump-steer.

The slipper should make a whining noise, but only for about a couple of feet. It is easy to adjust, just refer to your manual or video tape. And always keep that diff tight. I have been running a trinity 11 turn triple for about 6 months now and have never stripped an idler or fried the diff.

[Bassman00]

Thanks for the quick replies. I'm charging up a couple of packs now to see how my latest adjustments take.

The reason I asked about a setup jig is if I have to change/replace parts. How would I get it setup back to factory spec?

Thanks,
PaulD

[goodjerm]

I've never broken anything that would change the set-up. I've broken all of the plastic suspension arms, the hinge pin brace (twice), and two rear hub carriers. The only things that would change the setup is the turnbuckles. I think the exploded view in the manual even shows the proper length in case you have to replace them.

[Bassman00]

Great. I guess I'll go back and RTFM. Thanks!

PaulD

[guver]

Originally posted by rcguy2477
I have a question for everyone, what is the lowest turn motor you have used in your evader? And what is the lowest turn motor you have used with out stripping the idler?
The reason i am asking is because i have ran 15t, 13t, and 11t motors in my evader without a problem and then i hear people strip idlers with 15+t motors.
The only problem i have had is that the hole that the idler shaft goes in became elongated because of all the pressure.

I have run many runs with a 13 turn without stripping gear, but then I have stripped with a stock motor also. I haven't stripped an idler in a long long time. this is after stripping many back to back in the beginning. Also with the stock esc. too.

[JeRmZ]

Hello!
Nooby here, I've been trolling for a while now and finally decided to pick up an Evader ST! Well I've had it for maybe four days and already have a slight problem!
When I turn the truck on, fresh battery, and hit the trigger it don't run. The light on the ESC turns red until I let go of the trigger! The front tires will turn if I turn the controller, but the motor will not! Any ideas? is it a bad ESC or bad motor? Everything is stock, like I said I haven't had the truck long! I read all of these Evader ST forums and searched! I came up with something close, but that guy said his light's on his ESC didn't work, and mine do ...:confused:


Thanks for any help!

oh and I'm glad I found this board looks like a long road ahead! :D

[1tuffRC10]

Jermz, sounds like your motor is toast or has a brush hung up. The stock motor is fast but doesn't last very long. Make sure the brushes are not stuck in the motor. Pull them back a little then let them snap back in. If it still doesn't run, try a new motor.

[JeRmZ]

Thank you, I'll try that tonight when I get home from work!

[JeRmZ]

What would be the best motor to go with? I use the truck primarily for my backyard and on the street!
I want something that is durable and going to hold up against some wear and tear!

I've seen a lot of post's regarding the P2K2, how are they? would you suggest going to a lower turn #, and what would be the lowest I could run on the stock ESC? Remeber I still want durability and I'm really not concerned with speed, the speed of the Photon was just about right!

Thanks again!
:D

[rcguy2477]

a p2k or p2k2 would be a good motor. If you want about the same speed, a p2k would be best. If your looking for more speed, the p2k2 would be the way to go. If you want even more speed, than get a monster stock motor.

[JeRmZ]

And I could still run the P2K or P2K2 on the stock ESC right! Would I need to change any gearing or would the stockers be sufficient?

Thank you I really appreciate everyone's help ... like I said I'm new to this whole thing and it is really buggin me out! :D

[goodjerm]

Stock gearing should be fine, as well as the esc. The manual says to use a motor with no fewer than 20 turns, but duratrax esc's tend to stay cool.

[1tuffRC10]

I am running a slightly smaller pinion with a Trinity Monster motor. It's a 27 turn so it's called stock in ROAR rules I believe it's a 18 pinion. But I am running a 3300 race pack. People on here have posted using much lower turn motors, some with gear box problems and some without. Haven't seen anything about a bad ESC, they seem to be tuff. LOL

[Dirt-Basher03]

I am having problems with my evader. I love the truck but is nose dives off of jumps too easily. I have repositioned the battery so it sits farther back on the chassis and it helps some. but it stills nose dives. Does anybody know what I should do? thanks in advance.

[shadmaster4]

hey, the esc problem could be due, to you putting in the esc's reciever cord, in the wrong reciever slot. There are three slots. Batt, should not be used. Chan 1, or 1, is used for the servo, and channel 2 is used for the esc. Next, if that doesn't work, maybe your throttle is mixed up. Try reversing the throttle on the radio, and pushing on the brakes, or going up on the trigger. LMK if that works.


For the guy with nose dive problems, first, try moving the batteries. Second, i always tend to give full throttle through the air, so my evader always lands on its rear wheels first. When in the air, give throttle or brake, it will pitch the front end up or down. Hope that helps- Zack

[JeRmZ]

Hey thanks, I tried all that stuff you mentioned and still have not come up with anything so I assume it's the motor!
I have to wait to get paid :mad: before I can get anything else!
But the truck sure does sit pretty! :D

[The Modfather]

Originally posted by JeRmZ
Hey thanks, I tried all that stuff you mentioned and still have not come up with anything so I assume it's the motor!
I have to wait to get paid :mad: before I can get anything else!
But the truck sure does sit pretty! :D

Check the 2 "bullet connectors" going from the ESC to the motor. I ran 1 batt pack thru my sons, and IMMEDIATELY replaced them

[Preston]

Well, I have two pieces of advise for you.

1. When my brothers and I run our evaders (we all have ST's), and we run into any problem, we pick the truck up while one guy holds down the trottle trigger, and then squeeze, pinch twist, and pry all the connections until the motor starts spinning. This way you can zero in on the problem, and guess what? 9 times out of 10 it is the battery connector. You see, if your ESC loses power for even a split second, it will take at least 2 seconds of down time to reset. At this time your servo will work, but the motor will not move. Wait 2 secs, and try again.

2. if you have $20, get yourself down to Radio Shack and get a Digital Multimeter. With this item, you will save yourslef the trouble of buying new motors just to see if they fix your problem etc.. For instance, if you place the voltmeter across the brushes on you motor with the trottle pulled, and you get a decent reading, then you know your problem is motor related.

[Preston]

I want to take some time to share what I have learnt thru experience about the Evader ST over this past summer.

You see, when I got my Evader in the spring, I had little to no knowledge about the truck, or about RC in general. Not long after I got my Evader, I had convinced both my brothers to buy their own as well, and to keep things simple, they got Evader ST’s too.

So we spent many many hours (the whole summer actually) racing our Evaders on an asphalt oval. 3 Evaders, a whole lot of crashing, head-on’s, rolls, lexan scraping, and some broken parts too. Needless to say, pitting 3 identical trucks against each other on a tight oval track was a heck of a lot of fun, as well as a great learning experience.

We also tried many different combinations of pinions, and about 5 different motors, tires, etc. just to see what the difference in speed would be. All in all I found that of all the changes, nothing really made much of a difference in speed. Surprisingly, I didn’t find a 17 turn motor noticeably faster than a 20 turn. Actually the biggest area of improvement on the truck is in tire choice. Whoever had the most traction seemed to win the most races.

So here are my recommendations to all you Evader owners out there:

Best motor we tried: Trinity Revenge of the Monster (noticeable increase in speed, better than all the Mod motors we tried with the factory ESC)

Best tire choice for all around use: Proline Dirt Hawgs (best grip on dusty asphalt, and absorb lots of shock in collisions, kind of act like bumpers. Basically, you will break fewer parts if you run with these tires compared to the factory tires.)

The worst part on the Evader is the front pin brace. It WILL break on your truck. My one brother’s broke on his first pack, when his and my truck had a head on collision. In that collision, my truck’s front pin brace broke as well. My other brother broke his in a similar accident. We all replaced ours with the alloy ones offered by Duratrax. If you’re buying an evader you might as well buy this alloy pin brace at the same time to save you shipping costs.

The second worse part is the antenna tube. If you expect your truck to ever end up on its roof, you better buy some aftermarket antenna tubes, because the factory one will bend like a lead wire, and stay that way until it eventually cracks.

The third part is the little shock part that threads onto the shock shaft. Either it strips itself out, or it unthreads itself over time. Same brother who broke his pin brace on the first day, also had his shock fall apart on the first day. It looks bad, but only requires it to be re-threaded back in. You’ll know it has happened when your truck does a sudden nosedive into the asphalt, and your shock spring goes bouncing down the road. Easy fix though.

The fourth part is a nuisance, but doesn’t really affect your ability to drive your truck. It’s the darn white dish wheels. They chip very easily. Running a larger tire (like the Dirt Hawgs) will greatly reduce this, but it will still probably happen.

All in all though, this is an awesome truck. For the money it really can’t be beat. And it does take a beating very well. I even like the Sprint ESC. Its simple, durable, inexpensive, and who can honestly say they don’t love reverse?

[rcguy2477]

Some things added to prestons reply
For the front brace, use jep rc's brace, its really cheap and works well.
For onroad tires, the best are the road hawgs. Get the proline xxt rims. If you want a wider stance, get the hpi universal rims for the back and xxt-rc10 ones for the front.

The easiest way to lower your truck if your racing onroad is to cut a small part of the spring off. My truck sits about a half inch off the ground.

Jermz, take your motor out and directly connect it to the battery, if it works, the problem is your esc. If it doesnt, the problem is your motor.

[JeRmZ]

Thank's guy's, I tried everything and eventually took it to my hobby shop and it was the motor, it had bad brushes and
uh .... what is it called .... commutator? So I replaced it with a P2K and I just got it back, I'm going to an empty sam's parking lot right now to CHECK IT OUT!!!! Yeaaah!





oh yeah I also got some new rims! and street tires!
I will let you know how it runs! :D

[JeRmZ]

Running like a thoroughbred (sp?) ... smooth acceleration, and a tad bit quicker I do believe!

Thanks again! :D

[JAMMIN8317]

hey guys I just bought an st and I want to start driving asap but the plug from the esc doesnt fit my mx 3 reciever. What can I do?

[orbitron]

Just chop off that little tab thats holding you back...

[JeRmZ]

Will this body fit my ST?

http://www.prolineracing.com/proline.html



or

What body's will fit the ST?:confused:



EDIT**
It's the T4 Interceptor on page 2, the link is not direct! sorry :(

[JeRmZ]

Here's a pic!!!
I think it's pretty cool!

[orbitron]

I probably wont work well. The front shocks on the evader are split apart further than the ones on that body. the hood won't fit unless you mount it higher. I don't know about the length between shock towers?

Any XXX-T body will fit nearly perfectly if it's electric. But I suggest trying something original. Go to http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com and look for the j spec trucks or look at what i've done at http://myevader.tk Check out the universal body posts I made.

[Hyper7Pro]

i have purchased an evader and I broke one of the dog bones! i am in need of one and am asking if anyone has an old one they no longer need, if they could donate it to me. my email is ghettochild51@juno.com thank you guys

[The Modfather]

Originally posted by orbitron
...or look at what i've done at http://myevader.tk
Check out the universal body posts I made.
Sorry! This site has been demolished.
Use www.orbitracing.tk from now on.

[orbitron]

OOPS! Yeah that last post was a few days before I revamped my website. http://orbitracing.tk is now my "OFFICIAL" website. The info is in there under the offroad bodies section.

And also could everyone here check it out and tell me what I need to improve (besides directing people to the right place)?

[TeamMishap]

I put my stars and bars body back up on Ebay. I was going to run it, but I couldn't do it. Someone else is going to have to wreck the paintjob. I can't do it. (laughs)

[orbitron]

Didn't you paint that thing back in the summer? How could you possibly hold off so long? I get stupid everytime I paint a body. I want to run it before it dries.

[TeamMishap]

But it's so purdy. I just couldn't be the one to mess it up. I think it's going to be in RC Driver issue #2. Bob Hastings wrote me back and said it was awesome.

I hate having it sit unused, and don't want to run it, so that leaves EBAY.

[irace3d]

Ok so this is the deal I just order a DuraTrax from Tower
Hobbies and I want to get wheels and rims and foam inserts. This is my list of
what I think I will get will all this go together ok?

LXAMW7 DuraTrax Rear Wheel Blue Evader ST

LXAMW4DuraTrax Front Wheel Blue Evader

LXM974 HPI V-Groove Tire M Compound

LX2950 Associated Foam Insert Tire Truck

All this is from Tower Hobbies there is no locale hobby
store so this is where I get my stuff.
Dose the LL3892 RPM Camber Gauge work?
One more thing what spare parts should I get and keep on hand?

Thanks For All The Help I Get :) !!!

[rcguy2477]

Dont get those items you listed. Get proline wheels for the xxt and road hawg tires. The tires come with the foam inserts so you dont have to get separate ones. And for the tires, the duratrax ones are cheaply made and crack easily.

The main part that i have broken is the rear plate wich broke 2 times for me. Get the jep rc braces if you can (he hasnt been responding lately) and that will decrease the chance of breaking your arms. The only other parts that i have broken are the chassis and a hub carrier.

[1tuffRC10]

Camber gauge works good. Just have to have a perfectly flat surface to use it on. Drink can or paint can also works for zero camber anyway.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Will a XXX-NT truck body fit my Evader?

[orbitron]

oooh not sure the position of the engine as compared to the motor would probably indicate no. the rear shock tower probably won't be in the same location and that could be an issue.

[GeorgeD]

Does anyone reckon i should get the evader cause it will be my 1st car. And i was looking at it

[*Supreme Losi*]

I do. It's a great car. I personally have one and I love It.

[rcguy2477]

The evader is a great car, although some people may say otherwise. All the people that actually have the car enjoy it.

I just saw an add for the pro evader, and its going to have a aluminum back plate. I am hoping that you can buy it seperately, that is the major part that i break, and its a pain to replace.

[ayk_driver]

hey whats up? havent posted in a long while but thought i would... i live in canada and a new track is opening up near me.... if they have a stock class i wanna run in that and have a few q's...
first.... what is a good stock motor with STANDARD brushes...
second..... which better do u personally think is better the XXXT Crowd Pleazer or the stock one? ill be painting the body myself i just wnt sumthing kewl...
third... what r sum good upgrades for this truck if i wanna race.... iver been looking and most look very cheap through towers so ill buy them there...
forth and final... what r sum good tires for racing? help would be great thanx guys and gals!

[orbitron]

hey man don't order from tower if you can help it. go to http://www.greathobbies.com it's canadian and reasonably priced. I don't know about what you should get besides everything on the pro version.

[1tuffRC10]

Got quiet in here! I can't get my Evader to run very fast any more. It has just got slow and has no top speed. Ran over 30 packs through it so I believe the bearings and gears may be getting wore. We have a big race comming up in two weeks so I guess I'll break out the new one.

[rcguy2477]

i would guess its the motor before assuming its the bearings or gears. The gears or bearings usually dont effect the speed much unless you have somthing in the gears. Just cut the comm on the motor or buy a new motor if you dont have a lathe. I have had around 50 packs thru my evader and nothing has ever gone wrong with the gears or bearings.

[guver]

I agree, comm and brushes.

[1tuffRC10]

Thanks but I have been using new motors. When one goes I just put in another one. Got 3 or 4 to be turned, the rest are trash. It's just not as fast as it was. I am going to try a brand new truck that I've had for about two months in the box. I bought it for parts but we haven't broke a thing. Only weak spots I've found is the front brace and the steering servo. Truck is great out of the box other than the shocks with little or no oil in them, and the wheel spacers on the wrong way. Maybe I'm running the slipper too tight and the motor is heating up before it gets up to speed. I use this truck for warm up to gas truck. Great practice before running gas. Can check out tires and get a feel for the track.

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by orbitron
hey man don't order from tower if you can help it. go to http://www.greathobbies.com it's canadian and reasonably priced. I don't know about what you should get besides everything on the pro version.

becuz my uncle has a US mailox its cheaper to order from towers than anywhere in canada... plus i have never had a prob with them that has been their fault.... only probs so far is that i had to wait like 2-3 months for my Maxx 2.5 and thats cuz of traxxas... ill stick with towers tho....

can anyone help me out with my other post

Originally posted by ayk_driver
hey whats up? havent posted in a long while but thought i would... i live in canada and a new track is opening up near me.... if they have a stock class i wanna run in that and have a few q's...
first.... what is a good stock motor with STANDARD brushes...
second..... which better do u personally think is better the XXXT Crowd Pleazer or the stock one? ill be painting the body myself i just wnt sumthing kewl...
third... what r sum good upgrades for this truck if i wanna race.... iver been looking and most look very cheap through towers so ill buy them there...
forth and final... what r sum good tires for racing? help would be great thanx guys and gals!

[orbitron]

Originally posted by ayk_driver
becuz my uncle has a US mailox its cheaper to order from towers than anywhere in canada...

yeah shipping is the killer

[pudder]

.

[Preston]

Well, because im bored and winter is approaching, I'm converting my Evader into a Monster Truck.... Well kind of...

I purchased a Hobbico High Torque Dual Ball Bearing servo, and put it in my Evader last night. Unfortunately I should have gotten a Futaba, because the output gear is different (Hobbico's are Hitec) So anyways I had to use the servo horn that came with it, but i mocked something up and it seems to work. This servo has 77 OZ IN of torque compared to the stock which has 41 OZ IN.

Anyways I will need the torque to turn the Masher 2000 I'll be using.

I also had to cut the top brace a bit to make sure the servo arm cleared it when it turned. Ill post some more pics later...

[orbitron]

Some guy from the netherlands sent me some pics to put on my website of his monster conversion. Here's one.
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/t_pics/yeti02i.jpg
There's more on my website.

[pudder]

That looks pretty good! What kind of tires are those?

[orbitron]

I can't remember what he said. I think they may be mashers but he mounted them backwards. They're huge hey? (or should I say eh)
Personally, I think they would only be useful if the truck was 4WD, but what do I know.

[pudder]

Those are no mashers... I'm not sure what... I have seen those style tires before on Tamiya trucks...

DuraTrax is coming along pretty good I see. They have graphite parts for their vehicles now too. I kinda miss my Evader, but in other ways I dont. I had one of the first ones out, so it had lots of problems.

Have they seemed to have solved the weak gear problems or are people still having trouble with that?

[orbitron]

I don't know what the tires are but I just E-mailed him and invited him into this conversation, maybe he'll know. I've upped my truck to a 7 cell and haven't had any issues with the tranny. I think the people who want to go to the *big* motors are all doing the 22racer associated gears.

[pudder]

What are these associated gears all about exactly? I've been out of the evader scene for a while.

[orbitron]

Search this forum (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=438681#post438681) for 22racer. He says, "Use Asc. diff rings, carbide diff balls, asc. diff. spring, losi thrust bearing kit. My diff. has never felt better, almost like a losi or asc." he puts a robinson idler in it as well. Something like $15 after you buy the parts for him. People have put brushless in the evader after this mod.

[guver]

Nice to see pudder, hardcore hick? ha ha

My conclusion on the evader is that the new ones are much better than the original ones too. That was my first rc vehicle, and I know I'm a better driver now, but I do all kinds of flips and cartwheels now, where as before would have definitly broken my first truck.

In fact I broke lots of parts. lots of them with a stock truck. Now my trucks are much heaveir and faster , but they seem to stay together better.

[yeti]

Hi there,
I'm "that guy from the netherlands" and you're right, I put on the tyres in the wrong way. It was just for a photo right out of the box ...
Anyway the tyres are from an Academy Monster Hummer and were removed because they do not fit nicely and are quit heavy and do have a high rotating mass which is bad for acceleration.
I've mounted Pro-line masher 2000 for a while now and I like them very well and even do have good traction on pavement. Those tyres do give extra stress on the axle through the front knuckle arms however, in the meantime I got quit some play on it.

In the meantime I made some changes to the truck :

* Carson 15 turn ESC with reverse. Smoother action and braking control
* Aluminium bull-bar
* Hitec Hi torque servo HS645MG from my E-maxx (although it's not necessary 'cause my girlfriend runs with the same truck and tyres with an ordinary futaba standard 3003 servo without any problems. By the way it's quite nice to have a driving buddy so nearby:D )

In the near future :
* RPM Chrome Clawz rims, originally made for Losi xxt truck but do fit!
* HPI dodge ram body , do I have to say more ...

By the way both trucks were orderred at tower, cause its not sold here in The Netherlands. I still have to find out how to get the US taxes back. Does anybody know ?

I will put some new pictures on Rodneys site since the truck(s) has changed.

bye
yeti

[rcguy2477]

yeti- what exactly is a aluminium bull-bar?

Yesterday while running my evader out in the grass, the basketball pole jumped out at my car and they collided. There were a total of 5 parts broken, the front bulkhead, the bumper, front shock tower, and both front braces.

[yeti]

bull-bar = to catch bulls :rolleyes:

see picture

It is easily made out of aluminium, a plate and two hollow pipes.
I try to make some pictures this weekend to show mine.

[Wizardman_1]

The only bad thing about the evaders are the servo saver and motor. The servo saver is too stiff and strips servo gears left and right. I cut the springs to the end of the grinded flat part on the top and bottom and tightened the adjustment knob just a bit and it was fixed. Or you can just get an all metal gear servo. If you get a Trinity P2K2 Pro motor the stock gearing is perfect for it. If anybody has an evader BX, to keep the wing from falling off just bend the wing wire outward so you will have to squeese to get the wing on. Since the Sprint ESC has practically no brakes and you rarely use reverse, upgrade to a DuraTrax Intellispeed Autosport, only $24.99 on Tower Hobbies. To get a longer run time use WS Deans connectors on the battery and esc and hardwire from motor to esc you'll see a big difference. Oh and for you guys running 1500mAh packs on Tower Hobbies they sell Epic 3000mAh NiMH packs for only $18.99. If you plan to race you should really get the sway bar kit for the rear because it has too much roll and causes hooking, it's a nice upgrade and around $8.99. If you want stickier rubber for cheap, just rub a liberal amount of WD-40 on them and let'm sit for about half hour. The slipper nut on these keep backing out so use a second lock nut and DuraTrax released a new hard anodized light-weight slipper plate and is included in the new pro kits. For shock oil 30wt is perfect for the evaders if springs are too stiff just unthread the springs all the way. If you have any questions just email me at Wizardman_1@hotmail.com, hopefully these tips are good advice for all of you out there.

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by orbitron
Something like $15 after you buy the parts for him. People have put brushless in the evader after this mod.

Racer22 does some great machine work. Makes the idler out of two pinions, and you can't tell unless you are looking for it. I have his stuff, but haven't fried the tranny again yet, so it hasn't gone in.

I did convert my spur/pinion to 32P teeth because my Hacker was just blowing teeth off the spur (yes spacing was proper) and I've had no problem with the spur again.

My wife just bought me a bike ramp. Can't wait to break something.

[1tuffRC10]

wizard, I've found the stock 20 tooth to be too much for my P2K2. Maybe we are running the slipper too tight. Still new in my return to electric. If you're slipper nut keeps getting out of adjustment, it's wore out, replace it. The nut that is. May try that rear sway bar, I guess weather it helps or not depends on the track.

[rcguy2477]

the sway bars arnt the best. In the first week i had them, i broke all the plastic linkages. One even broke when i installed it. Duratrax sent me both the sets of sway bars for free because of it, but i am not going to use them most likely.

[Preston]

Well my evader is now finished with its Monster Mod.

Here is what I have done:

16 Turn Intellispeed ESC
17 turn Orion Rush
15 Tooth Pinion
Masher 2000's
77oz high torque servo


Well, as cool as it looks, I don't recomend Masher2000's for the Evader. They would work much better on a 4X4. Too much rotating mass. I still have to take this truck outside, but in my large basement I tested it, and wasnt too impressed overall. I will end up putting my Dirt Hawgs back on, i think they are a good compromise between weight, and tire size. Dirt Hawgs are the perfect tire for bashing with an Evader.

The HT Servo works great though, and turns the Mashers without any effort.

I don't know, maybe outside the truck will impress me more, Im sure it would be great for jumping, but it seems like the mashers are putting too much strain on the tranny.

My advise: Keep the Mashers for a Tamiya Wild Dagger, or a Pede.

With the 15 tooth pinion there was lots of torque, but most of that went into the slipper, and I fear that getting that slipper any tighter would strip some gears.

So now I'm going to try to boil some watter, and get those Mashers off those Losi rims without ruining the tires.....

[Wizardman_1]

I was searching Tower Hobbies yesterday and found an aluminum idler gear for the evaders straight from duratrax, you might already know but oh well. This will probably solve all your gear stripping problems for you guys running low turn motors but i havent tried one myself. stock number lxfzp0. If anyone is getting one of the new pro series let me know how it turns out. Proline dirt works are good basher tires too, oh and my sway bars work just fine, later ill take a pic of my track to show you guys what im running on.

[Wizardman_1]

check out these sites www.motortuningsecrets.com/tunestockmotor.html
http://members.cox.net/sdracing/index.html

[yeti]

Here's a picture of my evader with a bull-bar.
mail for more picture's.
yeti

[yeti]

Here's a picture of my evader with a bull-bar.
mail for more picture's.
yeti

[rcguy2477]

I found out a way to do easy wheelies! Just take off all the front suspention, and put some slick tape on the bottom of the evader. With this settup, my evader would flip on it's hood instantly. I do not reccomend trying this though.:D

[yeti]

Hi Preston,
I also drive the mashers and despite they do put more strain on the steering knuckles, the driving is good. It can take quit some abuse during hard l