RC10B2

[StevePond]

Started at the request of microrcdude

[microrcdude]

Thanks, steve. So who has one of these?

[Surgeon General]

I have one from about 5 years ago that I've been getting around to resurrecting. The transmission seems really grainy and it makes a noise like gears binding when it runs. I was thinking of cleaning out the whole transmission and using a Diff rebuild kit.

And how much more advanced is the B3? All the off-road tracks around here that offer electricity closed years ago, so I haven't been following them since.

[highroller]

I've kept each version from the original to the B4, even had a couple of different early RC10 that were converted into sprint cars, a graphite chassis upgrade and a 4wd RC10 conversion. I had planned to upgrade the B2 using the B3 conversion but decided to just purchase a whole new B3 kit.

[microrcdude]

These cars are the bomb in novice classes. A driver with b2 can keep up with the big dawgs!!!

[powerstroke01]

I did the B3 conversion to my b2.. Worked awsome..
I won ALOT of races with it.. :)

[minijosh]

I just got a B2 and it is cherry. Now I need to thrash it around the yard. It has a 81 tooth spur I think. What pinion should I run with a 17 turn speed gem 2?

[damus]

is it easy to do a gear clean up in the b2 cos my friend has 1 and the gear box is full of crap, is it worth trying to clean out or just get a new one?

[GT Freak]

wish i could finds a b2 for sale/ trade..:(

[welshy40]

Guys, the B2 was the best 2wd I have driven. I have a carpet set up that can put you into any regional A final and country championship finals (I have made both with ease).

Front
Springs :Black
Pistons :Number one
Oil :30 wt
Wishbone level :They need to be just below level.
Battery placement :All the way forward with foam insert sitting at back
Tires :Schumacher Yellow Minipins uncut
Inserts :Cut proline medium or soft
Camber :1 degree
Castor blocks :25 degree
Bump steer :zero

Rear
Springs :Green
Pistons :Number one
Oil :35 wt
Wishbone level :You want the rear drive shafts just below level
Tires :Schumacher Yellow Minipins uncut
Inserts :Cut proline medium or soft
Camber :1 degree
Standard kit rear toe in.

Pack for the shocks is required
The shocks need two blue mip seals on the outside on the shafts. So that
when you fill the shocks up front and rear that you put about 2mm of pack in them. With the seals there you can push the shaft in and when the seals reach the bottom of the shock the pack should come into effect, plus the seals help keep the shaft clean.

Building the shocks
I build my shocks differently. I take out all the plastic washers and seals and throw away, keeping only the square locking plastic washer to keep the innerds in place. I then put three blue MIP seals in there place and this makes the shocks much smoother and less prone to damage as the seals allow movement so the shafts dont bend in a big crash. Smoother shocks makes all the difference at an event.

Gear ratios
Gear ratios are up to you, I did use a 10 double (corally) and geared around 8 to 1.

Slipper clutch adjustment
With your motor installed and gear in, switch on and hold as tight as possble flat on the carpet. Put the throttle on maximum and you should hear the slipper working. Tighten up until its fighting to pull away on maximum throttle, but the slipper is making a stuggling slipping sound. That is set for indoors and outdoors.

Servo Saver
Servo saver should be set tight so that in a crash it will only work then, not whilst driving.

Out door setup
Front
Springs :Green
Pistons :Number one
Oil :35 wt
Wishbone level :They need to be level.
Battery placement :All the way forward with foam insert sitting at back
Tires :Schumacher Yellow Minispikes uncut
Inserts :Cut proline medium or soft
Camber :1 degree
Castor blocks :25 degree
Bump steer :zero

Rear
Springs :Green, but silver also works
Pistons :Number one
Oil :30 wt
Wishbone level :You want the rear drive shafts level
Tires :Schumacher Yellow Minispike uncut
Inserts :Cut proline medium or soft
Camber :1 degree
Standard kit rear toe in.

The outdoor setup is for grass, and some dusty tracks. Not for clay.

Hope this helps you guys out, It got me some good results.

But be warned the carpet setup is as quick as a 4wd.

The car over steers, but the back does not come out. Its twitchy and is easy to drive flat out tight on any carpet, but capable of taking TQ by driving it normally.

However if you need to you can take TQ by leaving the throttle in flat out from the start to the end - I have won an A final doing just that.

No roll bar is required, but be sure to make sure every bearing is free and the wishbones or anything else does not rub, plus zero slop is also a must.

Oh yes one more thing, dont put any grease or oil on the gears in the gearbox, as it attracks dirt and dust. Just wash them and dry them and obviously grease the diff balls and thrust race, but nothing else. It frees the transmission and makes it more efficient. Also when you come to clean it and take appart its still clean.

Good racing guys