View Full Version : HPI RTR Savage 25
Monsterbrad
03-01-2004, 11:02 PM
Lights are always nice
Looks cool.
Anybody have any info on the HPI ringed pipe for the savage?
Anybody put one to use yet how are they??
Keep on truckin
C.J.OO
03-01-2004, 11:14 PM
verry nice machine. i have a u.s.a.-1.nitro crusher with to many hop ups to mention.but am selling it to get one of these badboys. i have a ofna/picco.26 outlaw engine in my truck.&the h.p.i.25.ss runs rings arond it the kyosho nitro crusher is just to much truck to push.:mad:
savagepicco26
03-01-2004, 11:17 PM
if you put that picco 26 in the savage you get, you'll run circles around the S-25 powered trucks!
kekekek
03-02-2004, 08:28 PM
couple questions..
1. Does the Savage 25 tank still auto lean after half a tank? If so, will the OFNA tank bolt right on without modification?
2. How will the stock steering do if I have a 6v Rx pack?
3. Tuned pipe suggestions? Why?
4. Recommended Diff lube weight for the spider gear mod?
5. Recommended Shock Oil weight for the shocks?
savagepicco26
03-02-2004, 08:40 PM
1. it's not too bad. don't really notice it much. don't know about the tank mod though
2. better than with the AA's
3. i use this pipe (http://store.savagess.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=300&osCsid=c11a5b75327d7f152173915f03af23aa) why? i like the look of it better than the ringed pipe and i've heard they both perform the same.
4. i used 5000 wt for the front and i'm going to put a spool to lock in the rear axle so i won't be using oil there. i'm set up primarily for racing
5. i use 35 all around for the track.
Monsterbrad
03-02-2004, 11:27 PM
Hey picco 26
You sad that you are going to put a locker in the rear!!!!
I would think that for racing that would make a severe push problem in the corners.
That pipe looks good and its alot cheaper than the ringed pipe I am going to look into that.
Also I have heard that the picco 26 is a great engine is it????
I will change that when the 25 gives out but till then the 25 is going to keep geting snot beatin out of it.
it runs ok with the 25 in it any how I think for an rtr.
its no p-5 rossi but it's pretty good
savagepicco26
03-02-2004, 11:35 PM
the locked rear end will make the truck perform more like a stadium truck. you can get the back end to slide a little and steer into the corners with the steering and the throttle then. we'll see how it works if i can ever get one ordered before they sell out. if i don't like it, i'll just go back to the spider mod and 3000wt for the rear end. the picco is just a beast of a motor. you really need to see it to appreciate it. you'll need to upgrade lots though. dogbones, drive cups, clutch and clutch bell, spider diffs are a must, delrin and aluminum gears everywhere if possible. or you can just drop the motor in and replace things with the heavy duty parts as the stock ones break off!:D that's pretty much what i did at first. i told myself that i was going to wait till the S-25 died to replace it, but that didn't last. the picco kept calling my name....i'm glad i answered. it's worth every penny. if you get the Ofna Picco .26, the Roto-Start bolts right up, which is very nice. no more blisters on the fingers from the pull start.
alkyula
03-03-2004, 03:04 AM
Originally posted by Starlin
Ok guys, here's the deal:
I've got a two month old, just broke in XTM 24-7 pullstart motor (big head one but not race version) that I bought for an old Mugen Super Athlete I had laying arround.
Last month I bought a Savage 25 and love it. Can't drive it enough! Wrecked it more times than I care to count and have not broken anything.
But here is the question: Since I'm not driving the buggy mentioned above anymore, is the 24-7 a more powerfull/reliable engine than the stock S25?
Just wondering if it would be an upgrade or a downgrade to do the engine swap.
Thanks,
Starlin
i ran about 3 quarts thru my brand new s-25 that came with my savage .25. it made nice power...and would pull the "occasional" wheelie on grass. well after being bored one night i decided to swap out the s-25 for an xtm standard 24.7 engine i had that has about 2 gallons thru it. bottom line: the xtm 24.7 kills the s-25 in all catagorys..low end, top end (yeah the s-25 is rated at alot more rpms than the 24.7..but i swear this 24. 7 has the torque to actually pull rpms while under load) and IME tunability. you will be walking over to flip the truck back on its wells ALOT as it will flip the truck on wheelies anywere on demand.yeah both mills are considerd RTR mills...but i mean damn..theres a huge diff in power between the two. throw that 24.7 in the savage you will be very pleased. and to think this is jsut the standard 24.7...the pro is said to have alot more even yet...
alkyula
03-03-2004, 03:08 AM
Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Starlin
Hello I am going to say that they are probably about the same. They are both rtr engines and they don't have the output that a high end italian engine does but I have to say that the s-25 kicks azz for what it is. I would leave it alone keep the xtm for a back up.
Keep on kicking that savage they love it mine does.
Oh yes and the difs try to keep the unloading of the wheels to a minimum thats what makes them blow up I keep my truck planted or try to keep it from one wheeling and the difs are still good.
Another thing add some silicone fluid to then that sometimes helps form blowing them up.
hey i will havto dissagree..scrolled down and saw your post after replying to starlin. i have first hand experience with the xtm 24.7 standard and the hpi S-25. the s-25 has 3 quarts thru it...still very new but IMO it is fully broken in and if it gets stronger it will still not be anywere near the xtm's power output. at first the s-25 seemed quite ableto move the big savage...but after experiencing the svage with the xtm the s-25 just seems very underpowerd. it may not be italian...or expensive...but its damn powerfullland reliable/easy to tune to boot. --peace
fullmetallstpro
03-03-2004, 10:56 AM
how good is the savage 25 suposed to be at pulling wheelies
broke mine right after break in waiting on part to come in.just curious?
:confused:
electric130
03-03-2004, 11:03 AM
they designed the truck to keep it's wheels on the ground, so the stock S-25 will very rarely pull wheelies. if you want a wheelie truck (which is a waste of time and power on the track, not to mention no steering control) then get a T-Maxx. you might get an occasional wheelie in the grass, but on the dirt and pavement, all 4 wheels will stay on the ground.
fullmetallstpro
03-03-2004, 11:23 AM
if a tmaxx is made to do it then why do they say its better at the tracks than a savage. and that is what i was doing when i broke mine was wheelies.it was doing them anywhere i wanted pavement grass it didnt matter. im just trying to figure if i got something to tight or not slipper clutch.
fullmetallstpro
03-03-2004, 11:26 AM
ps it pulls them alot better than my friends tmaxx anyday sorry
alkyula
03-03-2004, 03:31 PM
wheelies in no way help you get around the track, or help you control your truck better. they ARE how ever..a very good way to gauge how much power your truck is putting out. if you have two trucks that all the same, same place same time same setup...the truck that pulls the wheels of the ground is the one that was better broke in and better tuned. unless of course right after you pull the wheels you cut out from being to lean hehe.
fullmetallstpro
03-03-2004, 04:08 PM
thing is i dont race just bash the hell out of it.so wheeliesand all is what we like. as 4 leaning out not a prob. hyper vavle works great
Monsterbrad
03-03-2004, 10:32 PM
This is very interesting what is going on here.
I have the 25 savage still stock with over a gallon through it and it seems to run great and ran better once I got past about 3.5 quarts. Mike at speed zone in TN. says that these engines sometimes don't run that good untill you get a gallon of fuel through them. I have to agree the more fuel you rin watching temp and smoke trails the better they seem to run.
Well untill they blow up or give out.
evader253
03-04-2004, 09:54 AM
I think the Savage runs great r ight when u start it its just it is harder Alot harder to break in then st so it still runs nice after a min:cool:
Monsterbrad
03-04-2004, 05:16 PM
Had the truck out today for a few tanks
I just can't get over how great this truck is I am very impressed with the whole deal engine, suspension
the s25 is pretty good for an rtr engine.
I am running mine at about 230 at the plug and its about 55 here in pa today.
Whats everybody else running at ????????
Sarge
03-04-2004, 10:34 PM
Mine was consistant at between 240 and 250 the other day.
savagepicco26
03-04-2004, 10:47 PM
i actually contemplated getting the heat sink motor mount and the heat sink chassis because my S-25 was running at 290-300 when it was 40deg out and i had it super rich.
sasonrally
03-05-2004, 04:42 PM
i would recomend that you seal your engine. If its running that hot at that outdoor temp it seems like there is an air leak. Just a thought.
newnitrofan
03-06-2004, 03:07 PM
Yup you should seal that engine up really well. My picco runs between 220 and 250. Now my 21BB seems to run around 250 to 280 at the plug. I think that is not good is it??
Sarge
03-08-2004, 01:44 AM
Here is my Savage
http://www.msnusers.com/sgk7l8ej5qi90gcuh4abb89b42/Documents/Pictures%2FSavage%20012.jpg
http://www.msnusers.com/sgk7l8ej5qi90gcuh4abb89b42/Documents/Pictures%2FSavage%20011.jpg
http://www.msnusers.com/sgk7l8ej5qi90gcuh4abb89b42/Documents/Pictures%2FSavage%20011.jpg
http://www.msnusers.com/sgk7l8ej5qi90gcuh4abb89b42/Documents/Pictures%2FSavage%20014.jpg
jahdisp25
03-08-2004, 10:14 AM
Okay I went and bought a new dual port tuned pipe and I dont really know what the little screws are for? do I screw them into the end of the pipe or what?
Kinda new the whole nitro thing so any help will be appreciated
Badboy88
03-08-2004, 01:15 PM
Originally posted by ducklake1
I got my truck 2 days ago, man is it Awesome!!
I can't believe how much power it's got for being stock, the engine's Awesome.
My Brother's got the original .21 Savage, man there's a big difference.
I've ran about 7 tanks through mine, no problems.
http://cwhobbies.com/RC/DSC01701.jpg Hello guys my new truck is Awesome.I have had no problems with my truck it runs really good
Monsterbrad
03-09-2004, 12:55 AM
That thing needs a thrashing
WAY TO CLEAN
Mine is AWESOME TOO
I love it still impresses me every time
Jumping this thing is great.
The only thing I have noticed is the 4 stroking when you let off the throttle. i have to play with the settings to get rid if it almost every run but its no biggy.
ANybody else noticed this?????
it kinda goes nuts then settles down like its self leaning a bit
You guys that are into this know what four stroking on a 2 stroke is I hope.......................
2mcgrath
03-09-2004, 09:55 PM
yeah mine done that at first untill i got it dailed in and now it never does it unless it runs out of fuel..i am thinking of locking the diffs up anyone tried this yet?im through about a gallon now with mine and everyone is right it does run better the more fuel you get through it..i really put it to the test over the weekend i had a huge jump set up crashed thousands of times never broke anything..i even tried some back flips with it but never could land one:D ...i to had to change my spur gear to the 52 tooth after the 49 tooth stripped with about 4 tanks of fuel and havent had any problems since the change..mine wheelies pretty easy when ever i want it to..im running about 255 degrees to 270 no problems..also for some reason my wheels got white spots on them i use denatured acohol to clean it and i noticed it right after cleaning it..but i painted the wheels gloss black and it looks sweet with the black wheels so im not to upset about it now..
sasonrally
03-10-2004, 09:28 AM
Denatured alcohol will strip the chrome. It happens to my wheels too. Well is all good since the truck has seen many ours of bashing adn racing...:D
savagepwned
03-10-2004, 03:14 PM
when doing this mod does it matter if there is still a little bit of grease left in the diff case?
Monsterbrad
03-10-2004, 10:46 PM
Ok I am getting a little annoyed
Whats with the four stroking thing when the truck revs down off full throttle.
I can't get it dialed out I had it for a while now its back again.
THis truck is great but I am fed up with that.
Anybody have any sugestions???????
PLEASE HELP
I might just have to sell the 25 and get the 26 PICCO
that'll take care if the problem.
savagepicco26
03-11-2004, 10:29 AM
Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Ok I am getting a little annoyed
Whats with the four stroking thing when the truck revs down off full throttle. does it rev high for a second and then drop down? if so, your low end is too rich. see link. if not, then disregard, and describe a little better.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/engine_breakin.htm
Monsterbrad
03-11-2004, 01:50 PM
Well that helps a bit I am going to try leaning out the low end and changing the idle.
It was doing that where it four strokes then idles ok.
I have turned up the idle alot so I am going to back it back off and change the low speed needle to a leaner setting.
The truck runs great with good temp just sounds like crap always four strokin on the let off from WOT running.
I'll let ya know what happens.
Monsterbrad
03-11-2004, 03:07 PM
hello again
Well just took it out and it worked great turned down the idle and leaned the low end.
About 2 and 3/4 turns on the high end its a little cold here and its running GREAT!!!!!
temp is about 200 or so and it rips.
this seems low but I like it I am trying to get lots of use outa this engine.
frank parker
03-11-2004, 07:31 PM
Did anyone see the screen savers today? It featured Yoshi talking about his RC cars. He showed how his Savage 25 can drop from 6 feet and not bottom out. so the host grabbed it and threw it straight up in the air (it problably got about 15 feet up) and the savage rolled mid-air and landed on it's reciever case. unbelievable. It took it and showed little signs of hurt.
2mcgrath
03-11-2004, 10:50 PM
oh yeah my truck is doing great no complaints here and i have really put a whippin on it the gallon ive been through..ive allready knocked some paint off and put some dents and rips in my body..i didnt know that denatured alcohol would strip the chrome it never does it on my other cars just my savage..but i kinda like the black wheels better anyway..where do you pick up lockers for these trucks to lock the diffs i havent seen any?i think they would work great for my type of bashing that i use the truck for..and also if anyone has locked their diffs do you ever get twisted dog bones after a bit as a result from locking them up?
Monsterbrad
03-11-2004, 11:12 PM
I would say lock just the front and put heavy silicone oil in the rear from ofna. They make all kinds of dif fluid.
I have not done a thing to mine but bash the crap out of it and it loves it the body is completely trashed the roll bar is slightly bent but it keeps right on going.
I love this truck its awesome:-)
savagepicco26
03-12-2004, 07:07 PM
you can buy the diff locking spools from www.savage-central.com and then click on their store. i bought one, but haven't used it yet. i did the spider mod on both front and rear diffs and used 7000wt oil in them. so far i like it and i'll hold off on the spool. performance is so much better than stock. i had about 2 gallons total through the truck and i was disturbed by how torn up the inside of the diff cases were. i'm glad i bought new cases before doing the mod. those stock plastic cases don't last too long with only 2 gears in there. do the mod and replace the case too.
Monsterbrad
03-13-2004, 03:32 PM
Hey guys a couple questions here??
I took the truck completely apart today for some cleaning.
I found that the carb is leaking just a bit around the base but my engine runs great????
Whats up with this?
Second I found that the clutch was worn to the point that the springs are hitting the bell???
whats with that ??
Anybody have any problems like this???
I am going to just leave the engine alone I think I might silicone up the base of the carb but I am not sure yet.
The clutch is going to be replaced with a new better one than stock.
Any sugestions for the clutch???
2mcgrath
03-13-2004, 06:55 PM
i havent tried this in my savage but i had a buggy with a .25 and put in a aluminum clutch and man did it every launch hard.. i was thinking of doing the same with my savage..on your leaky carb just put a tad of silicone around the oring not to much though or it will suck it down in the motor..i use a tooth pick to put the sealer on the oring.
Monsterbrad
03-14-2004, 07:34 AM
I was thinking about putting aluminum clutch arms on but I am not sure yet.
I like ofna's stock hyper 7 clutche's but that might now be strong enough for the big truck.
I am going to skip the carb thing cause the truck seems to run great with no leaning problems. If I have problems I will silicone around the base.
I am going to see what Mike at Speed Zone in TN has to say about the clutch.
I am guessing that when the springs are wearing a groove in the clutch bell that the clutch is shot?
speedydave
03-14-2004, 05:19 PM
To any of you who have driven a T-Maxx and your Savage on a track:
I am thinking about getting a Savage (but an SS, not the RTR) in the future (springtime, after I have the money saved up). I want it mainly to bash, but I am a racer at heart, and I know I will eventually end up racing the Savage, at least for fun (not seriously). I used to own a 2.5 T-Maxx, but sold it a while ago (actually, traded it, but that's not important), and I raced it once or twice, and have driven other T-Maxxes on tracks before. My question is, compared to the T-Maxx, which is smaller and lighter, how nimble is the Savage? The track I race at isn't extremely small, but some turns can be pretty tight, and I don't want to be pushing way out with the Savage. Thanks!
savagepicco26
03-14-2004, 05:44 PM
my savage handles pretty well on the track. i also run bowtie 40's which gave me a huge performance and handling boost. i also have threaded shocks which allow me to drop the truck down real easy for better cornering. i did the spider mod to both fronth and rear diffs with 7000wt oil and now i've got even better handling and cornering, not to mention a stronger drivetrain. in all honesty, if you want a racer, look at the dominators and GS SUT's. they are the baddest racers in the monster truck classes, even though they are more like truggy's. i've contemplated selling my savage and buying a dominator extreme because i'm wanting to do strickly racing.
speedydave
03-14-2004, 06:01 PM
Well, I'm going to be using the Savage for bashing almost exclusively, it's just that MT's are fun to mess with on the track sometimes, so I would race it occasionally. However, most of the time I'll just be racing my XXXNT and MBX5. If I were going to race MT exclusively I'd convert my MBX5, since JT finally came out with a kit for it. Thanks for the quick reply!
fullmetallstpro
03-14-2004, 06:40 PM
can anyone in here tell me what a good steering servo 4 my truck. i stripped the stock 1 so i got a hitec hs-645mg and it didnt last a tank of fuel. i dont get it. its not like im doing major jumps or nothing.im not flipping it over to bad.it aint cart wheeling or anything.just getting mad at this thing right now
can any1 help
:mad:
savagepicco26
03-14-2004, 08:07 PM
Originally posted by fullmetallstpro
can anyone in here tell me what a good steering servo 4 my truck. i stripped the stock 1 so i got a hitec hs-645mg and it didnt last a tank of fuel. i dont get it. its not like im doing major jumps or nothing.im not flipping it over to bad.it aint cart wheeling or anything.just getting mad at this thing right now
can any1 help
:mad: to use the 645MG, you'll have to do some adjusting to your radio system. you can't just leave the stock settings alone. if you watch the travel of the servo, it will keep moving even though the steering has reached its limits. the servo saver then takes over, but the 645 can go beyone the limits of the saver too. when this happens repeatedly, the servo will strip out. i learned this from stripping out one 645 and replacing it. i have an Airtronics MX-3 and i had to adjust the endpoints to about 55 (out of 100) so the servo would stop right when the steering reached it's limits. ever since doing this to the second servo, it has lasted close to a gallon now. if you have the stock radio, try adjusting your steering rate down and see if you can limit servo travel this way.
Monsterbrad
03-14-2004, 11:30 PM
thats a good idea for the steering servo.
I would change the arms to the ofna ones that the dominator has they fit in the savage with some modification.
For get that stock steering system all together it kinda sucks I think way to much play.
I changed mine to the ofna arms and bearings and have had no problems at all I love it.
savagepicco26
03-15-2004, 07:32 AM
Originally posted by Monsterbrad
thats a good idea for the steering servo.
I would change the arms to the ofna ones that the dominator has they fit in the savage with some modification.
For get that stock steering system all together it kinda sucks I think way to much play.
I changed mine to the ofna arms and bearings and have had no problems at all I love it. yeah, i'm getting ready to do the dominator ball bearing steering too. man, i've got OFNA: Picco engine
flywheel
clutch
clutch bell
differential gears
differential cross pins
differential oil
steering arms
throttle/brake linkage
......man, maybe i should have just bought a dominator and have been done with it. :D
Monsterbrad
03-15-2004, 04:33 PM
I think that the dominator is not the truck for what the savage is.
The dominator is more a race truck the savage is an all out jumper with some racing potential.
I have never jumped anything like the savage or had as much fun with a truck.
I had the t-maxx and that thing was a joke
Savage for bashing all the way:-)
Takes a beating and keeps on ticking
Love the savage
savagepicco26
03-15-2004, 05:39 PM
Originally posted by Monsterbrad
I think that the dominator is not the truck for what the savage is.
The dominator is more a race truck the savage is an all out jumper with some racing potential. yeah, i'm wanting to just race now. bashing got old kinda quick, but being on the track is a blast!
Monsterbrad
03-15-2004, 06:29 PM
HAs anybody checked there clutches lately?
I was told that these trucks are hard on clutches at least the stock ones. Mine is smoked changing over to ofna clutch.
I'll keep ya posted,barely got a gallon through the stock clutch pads or arms.
If I was going to race I would say buy a storm truck they look the best so far but losi looks pretty good to cause the xxxnt rocks on the track.
Monsterbrad
03-15-2004, 06:42 PM
HEy guys another ?
HAs anybody else noticed an air leak around the base of the carb or lock pin that holds the carb in.
Mine is leaking slightly and I was thinking that half throttle is kinda strange with the engine.I was thinking that this leak will affect the mid range slightly.
Temps are good but I was just curious????????
Grifter
03-16-2004, 08:13 PM
How much did you guys pay for your Savage's.
tripplefatty
03-16-2004, 10:37 PM
what temps are you guys running???
savagepicco26
03-16-2004, 10:41 PM
i typically ran upper 200's(260-290) with the S-25. if it was held at WOT for long periods, i have seen it hit 349!!! that is very bad though and you DON'T want to do that. motor still runs fairly good though for having almost 3 gallons through it.
Monsterbrad
03-17-2004, 09:10 AM
In the cold weather I keep mine around 212 and it rips.
Warmer weather I keep it around 220 cause I look for long engine life.
I paid around 400 for mine but sometimes you can get them cheaper from
Speed Zone Race Way in TN
Give Mike a call there 1-866-590-0763
he is super nice and has good prices !!!!!
Also has anybody had this leaky carb base problem that I found on my 25??????
savagepicco26
03-17-2004, 09:50 AM
how did you find the leak?
Monsterbrad
03-17-2004, 10:26 AM
I water tested it.
I washed the engine like i always do and I noticed when I put my finger over the carb opening and then move the throttle in and out ,,,there was buubles outside the carb base.
I am going to seal it cause I think thats whats causing my mid throttle leaning.
ALso does anybody know if there are aluminum fuel tank mounts out yet.
Mine has thrashed the rear one and you have to buy the hole servo saver and tank mounts together.
part #85051
I don't want all that junk;-)
NO offense HPI
Love this truck kicks butt
tripplefatty
03-17-2004, 10:52 AM
thanks for the help
jamie...
newnitrofan
03-18-2004, 12:56 AM
Originally posted by Monsterbrad
I water tested it.
I washed the engine like i always do and I noticed when I put my finger over the carb opening and then move the throttle in and out ,,,there was buubles outside the carb base.
I am going to seal it cause I think thats whats causing my mid throttle leaning.
ALso does anybody know if there are aluminum fuel tank mounts out yet.
Mine has thrashed the rear one and you have to buy the hole servo saver and tank mounts together.
part #85051
I don't want all that junk;-)
NO offense HPI
Love this truck kicks butt
Brad the New Era (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=wyrcvpvtkhkhedprokcisyfgkofpmm ka&part_id=1670) fuel tank mounts probably a little bit more worth the money.
fullmetallstpro
03-20-2004, 09:03 PM
ok ive already polish the engine on my truck (the 25).and was wanting to know if it would be worth the time too port it too.i did on my os 15 cv-x but the port s where alot smaller in it though.i like the power it gave the 15 just need to know if some1 has done this to there engine if so was it worth it
ps the 15 was in a st pro stadium truck the 1 with to 2 speed.it smoked a street force with a os 15cv-ron top end
just want that for the 25 if i can get it
2mcgrath
03-21-2004, 11:43 PM
just to let you guys know my savage has been through a gallon and a half now..with absolutely no problems (knock on wood)..the clutch is fine, diffs are fine the whole nine yards servos and all..i gave about 450 for my savage at my lhs which always seems to be higher than other places... but i didnt want to order it and wait on it..all i have really done to mine is put some shock socks on it,a exuast deflecter,return spring mod,painted wheels black other than that its still stock..and ive put it through alot of abuse with no failure other than the first few tanks when i got it i stripped the spur.. changed that out and nothing since then..
Needler56
03-22-2004, 01:14 AM
what gearing is everyone using?
Monsterbrad
03-24-2004, 04:04 PM
I also have about a gallon of fuel through mine and all that is wrong was the broken tank mounts and smoked clutch.
Other than that the truck has been GREAT!!!!!
Just to let all ya know I replaced the clutch with a ofna set and black springs which I have not tried yet cause I am waiting for my turbo ringed pipe to come.
Monsterbrad
03-26-2004, 11:18 PM
Hello guys where are ya all????
I got the savage back together out the ringed pipe on and the new clutch shoes from ofna.
Tomorrow will be the test day I'll let everybody know how it goes.
I like that pipe shaves a little weight and looks way better than that stupid plastic thing.
Needler56
03-27-2004, 01:22 AM
if applicable, anyone having a problem with with the reverse module occassionally not engaging in foward? also, what's a good way to keep the reciever crystal in place so that it doesn't pop out?
Monsterbrad
03-28-2004, 12:53 AM
I have not played with the reverse thing yet and I think I probably will not.
FOr the crystal thing I would say take it out and tweak the pins just a little so that it fits tighter into the holes. Either that or zip tie the crystal in by wrapping a small zip tie around the reciever it self.
I just changed the pipe and clutch on my truck I am going to run it tomorrow I hope weather depending. The Menace is going to get some time toooo....
Monsterbrad
03-28-2004, 06:43 PM
Need some help here????
I changed the pipe and the clutch.
I can not seem to get it to run right it just four strokes on the idle down off full throttle nothing I do seems to help I richened up the high end and low ends alot to compensate for the pipe which seemed to help a little.
Has anybody else had trouble with this engine>?????????
2mcgrath
03-29-2004, 11:31 PM
i couldnt tell you on that i havent tried a different pipe yet on mine..but i would say it has to have something to do with the carb settings..are you using a temp gun also
Monsterbrad
03-31-2004, 11:39 PM
I figured it out!!!
I had to richen the high end considerably to get it to run good.
I have been having trouble with four stroking for a while but I seem to have gotten it taken care of with the new pipe and settings.
ONe thing that I am not very happy with is the size of this tank in this thing I mean its cool for re fueling matters but it plays with the setting slightly between full and empty. But its not that big a deal just runs a little rich at first doesn't realy bother me that much I guess.
The new pipe does make better power in the low rpm range though !!!!!
For those that are just reading this its the HPI RIbbed pipe
metred
04-01-2004, 09:34 PM
Just wanted to know if any of you have tried the 46 conversion kit from hot bodies? Id like to know how well the tranny and diffs would hold up to it, Thanks!
savagepicco26
04-01-2004, 10:11 PM
Just wanted to know if any of you have tried the 46 conversion kit from hot bodies? Id like to know how well the tranny and diffs would hold up to it, Thanks!i haven't done it, but i've seen it run. it's a turd! a big hunk of heavy crap! i'd say the stock 25 is faster than the 46. a complete waste of money if you ask me. the motor didn't really sound any different either. i was expecting a little deeper sound to it, but it sounded like a 25.
Monsterbrad
04-02-2004, 01:07 AM
I have heard that it all depends on the tune that is put on that big engine but I have also heard that it does make it too big. I would stick to a stock savage like the rest of us have on this forum. If you want more invest in a good power plant thats the heart of any rc a realy good engine.
I would go for the picco 26 just cause it a direct bolt in pretty much,and makes great power I am still going with the 25 engine and its pushing its gallon and a half mark and still going strong.
Needler56
04-02-2004, 07:16 AM
is there a difference between a good/bad start for the S25 engine? or is it when the engine starts, it starts, thats the bottom line. because when i used a battery that's been sitting around for a few days for the rotostart, it starts the engine fine. but when i started the engine with a fresh pack in the rotostart, the engine roared like the t-rex in jurassic park and the truck was moving like a bat out of hell..or am i finally hitting that transition point like everyone else where the engine starts to run better as more fuel is ran through it?
savagepicco26
04-02-2004, 08:46 AM
I've got the stock S-25 back in truck while Ofna is fixing my picco, should be back in on Monday. The S-25 has about 3.5 gallons through it. I was ripping spur gears a couple weeks ago on the track. It turns out that I had the spring on my slipper clutch too tight. So I put a new gear on and tightened it "properly," but the clutch was still slipping at high RPM's. It's probably been this way for quite awhile. I probably damaged the spring a long time ago by tightening it too much. I tightened it basically till the wrench stopped turning just like any other bolt/nut, then backed it out a 1/2 turn. Even then, you couldn't see any space between the springs. Turns out that's not the right way to do it. I bought a new spring kit and the new spring was 1/8" longer than the one I had! :eek: That's how compressed/damaged mine was! I put the new one on the truck and tightened the nut until the space in the spring was just barely gone. Then I backed it off 1/2 turn. HOLY CRAP! I had no idea it could make so much of a difference!!! I fired it up and took it up and down the road a couple times to warm it up. Got a little too fast for the turns so I hit the brakes. Truck did a 180 and then I punched the gas. On the pavement, the truck wheelied and flipped on it's top. I was dumbfounded. For the first time ever, the S-25 pulled a wheelie on the pavement. It used to pull an occasional one in the grass if it was assisted by a bump or something, but never on the pavement. I rode several wheelies up and down the street, several times going completely over backwards. The Picco has no problem doing this of course, but to see the S-25 do it, especially considering how much fuel has been through the motor, it was awesome!!! Here's the latest body that I painted to race with:
http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~jreaton/Truckpics/Race%20Body%201%20Front.JPG
http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~jreaton/Truckpics/Race%20Body%201%20Rear.JPG
Monsterbrad
04-03-2004, 01:40 PM
I like the s-25 engine its pretty good for a rtr engine.
I just replaced the stock clutch shoes and springs with ofna stuff had about a gallon through it and the springs were dragging on the clutch bell a little.
I also put the motor saver air filter on it made a nice dif in the throttle plus its way huger than the little stock one the menace also got one and they both run a little better.
Any way what pipe are you running savagepicco?
Monsterbrad
04-03-2004, 05:02 PM
Hello again
Just changed the savages tires to maxx masher what a dif!!!!
Handeling is so much better and way more responsive.
I'll save the stockers for the snow.
I bought these tires off a guy on ebay and they seem to have a little bobble to them I think they were pre mounted this could be why anybody else have this problem????
2mcgrath
04-03-2004, 10:09 PM
the foam inserts didnt get bunched up did they?
savagepicco26
04-04-2004, 04:37 PM
Any way what pipe are you running savagepicco?I run the HPI polished tuned pipe on both motors. I have the stock header for the S-25, and a Picco Header for the Picco motor.
http://store.savagess.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=300&osCsid=9b3c72af531b9726025e16a7d31542db
Monsterbrad
04-04-2004, 05:07 PM
I am not sure what happened with the tires I am just running them they work good so i'll mess with them some time or I'll just replace them.
I am running the HPI turbo ringed pipe seems to work very good loud though very loud.
but I kinda like it.
sebtarta
04-06-2004, 01:33 PM
Hello guys, just bought my RTR .25 Savage. Have not recieved it yet, but it should come in by the end of the week. I also bought from neweramodels, the front/rear skid plates, the center plate and the fuel tank shield (cover). All looks good, just cannot wait till I can start using the truck.
Any sugestion in terms of getting new tires and all....setups: suspension, toe-in(out), etc. That would be great.
Good luck, :)
savagepicco26
04-06-2004, 05:54 PM
i didn't change anything to alluminum except the shocks because they don't make plastic threaded shocks. i left everything else plastic. the alluminum makes everything too heavy. i'm into racing mine primarily so weight is a huge concern. see my pics above for the wheels i did. i did the steering bell-crank mod and it helped immensely. the throttle/brake mod makes a huge difference. the spider diff mod is an absolute must if you have the truck for any length of time. HPI ringed pipe is a good upgrade. NOVA pro head is good too. i have an Ofna Picco 26 on mine and it screams. the S-25 is an awesome motor too if it's tuned properly, but it can be pretty finicky IMO. hump RX pack is a must to ditch the AA alkalines. change out the power switch to one with a charge port too. throttle return spring mod is a must too. all of the mods i talked about can be found at www.savage-central.com some direct links are posted in the last few pages of this thread.
Monsterbrad
04-07-2004, 12:29 AM
Since you just bought the truck break it in realy good heat cycling it carefully and watching the temp on the stand ideling for the first full tank.I try not to let it go over 150 on the stand ideling for the whole first tank. Some people say this is not good but then move on to the heat cycling by running it around slowly tuning for the 250 range at the plug.
Picco said it all for changing the truck if you are going to race it for play mine is still stock and reaching the 2nd gallon of fuel I love it. The engine on the other hand can be a pain some times all I can say is small needle adjustments are key and if you put the turbo ringed pipe on like I did richen up the high end over three turns for a base line and go from there.
I have not played with the difs yet I have just been pounding the heck out of this truck and it loves it.
I changed the steering to ofna stuff the pipe to HPI ringed black cause Chrome won't make it any faster who cares about pretty its a truck and I put Maxx Masher tires on which make a huge handeling dif.
Let us know how it goes I like to hear peeps results with thsi truck
I love the heck out of mine the best rc investment I have ever made and I have been in this for 15 years.
sebtarta
04-07-2004, 01:02 PM
Hey guys thanx for the info. I really race 1/10th nitro cars. So reciever pack and breaking engine is all good. I jus have a few questions too, where could you get the steereing bellcrank upgrade from? Also the OFNA diffs do they work here too?
I am also getting the THS 1/8th Savage pipe, looks that the increase in engine performance would be very intresting. Also which tires are good, I saw the pics above with the bow-tie tires, which brand are they and model # if possible. I'll do the surch too, but just to have an idea, I guess they are pro-line tires.
Well, have not recieved the truck yet, but I might be getting the lunsford titanium set for the truck too. that would be all.
Good luck, :)
Monsterbrad
04-07-2004, 10:11 PM
Hey guys I am having the first problem. My drive train is binding up a little I think its the ring and pinion in the front but I am not sure going to tear it down and see.
I have Maxx masher tires on mine they work realy well tighten up the handeling up a bit. As far as part numbers any car action mag has these tires listed for savage and Craxx listed together.
Remember any tire and body that fits the craxx will fit the savage.
Anybody else have problems with the gears in this thing??????
Monsterbrad
04-08-2004, 10:36 PM
Ok here is what I found with the drive train in the truck.
The pinion bearing that is inside the case froze up and caused the pinion to got stripped a little,causing the binding.
I will take the blame for this for water gettin in the bearing.
2mcgrath
04-11-2004, 10:59 PM
is that a big problem getting moisture in the diff case? i havent really looked at the diff housing's to see how tight they fit together ive just been bashing it..i did notice something yesterday when i ran it i got it flooded took the glow plug out and it had metal shavings on it i hope this is from the glowplugs threads..i mean its still running good..how hard is the steering upgrade to do havent done that yet ethier..
Monsterbrad
04-12-2004, 05:09 PM
I have just had one gearing freez up on me so far even after running it through the winter and getting the drive train pretty wet.
The steering up grade is easy just a little hand fitting and you are good to go its easy to figure out once you have the parts.
I used both the ofna arms others use just one but it does make a huge difference in steering the truck much much better.
The metel shavings on the glow plug I would not worry about just keep pounding it and have fun this truck kicks butt.
Love mine just to much fun
2mcgrath
04-13-2004, 12:08 AM
yeah it is for sure a great truck hard to break ive tried and no luck so far..i had the rod end pop off last weekend from landing off a jump.. but i put it right back on and it hasnt come off again.
sebtarta
04-13-2004, 01:58 PM
What are the parts for the steering upgrade??
thanx, :)
2mcgrath
04-13-2004, 10:37 PM
savage cenetral shows the pics of how to do the steering upgrade and the parts you need..i havent done it yet so i dont know..the link maybe in this forum somewhere or maybe one of the guys can post it for you..i dont know how to post links or i would do it for you
Monsterbrad
04-13-2004, 11:05 PM
I would check out the last few pages of this post or just go to savagecentral.com and find it there.
Its not that hard to change it around I did mine in about an hour or so plus I changed the servo too cause the stocker was not enough for me.
I would have to agree about this truck being tough.
its very tough
lou diamonds
04-14-2004, 05:28 PM
this is a little off the subject but have you guys seen that traxxas revo? no dont get started, i love my savage, but the design of the revo is outstanding. the thing hits 90 degree curbs at full speed, no damage. i bend
shock shafts with ease. hpi should take note.
2mcgrath
04-15-2004, 03:36 PM
yes i have seen it looks good..what i dont quiet understand why the small block again every other monster truck has big blocks..and i have said this a dozen times to me monster trucks arent about top speed you need tourqe to get the job done..and the small blocks just arent enough for me
dense metal
04-16-2004, 02:27 PM
Well hello all... :cool: Well this is my first post and boy o boy...things have changed since I was in this. My last truck was a 1994 $RC10GT$$$ (money pit) and it was fun, but just started to get back into it. Lou I saw the Revo and it does look really nice...but I have a question for you Savage 25 guys.. Coming from that RC10GT would I be better off getting a Sav 25 now or waiting unitl June for the Revo?? Not a racer...just like to screw around. Thanks
2mcgrath
04-17-2004, 12:49 AM
the savage all the way if you are a backyard basher none better to me..the truck is durable and very hard to break..
Monsterbrad
04-18-2004, 12:28 AM
I would say savage its the best truck I think.
BIG BLOCK ALL THE WAY!
Small blocks are for cars not trucks.
The Revo looks good but traxxas has always been lacking in the toughness area.
The savage has all the durability that you need.
and remember
No Replacement for displacement!!!!!!!!
SAVAGE 25
lou diamonds
04-18-2004, 08:30 AM
hey metal, you have to go with the revo. you want a basher right? dont get me wrong i love my savage and im an hpi man all the way. i own a savage new converted to .46 truckzilla, rs4, and a rush. ill tell u this i wasnt happy with my savage until i dropped that sick engine in. and remember what i said about the those "long stroke shocks," the stock shocks give under little load. that revo is fast, durable, and should have all kinds of after-market parts.
bottom line....... get that revo! :D
dense metal
04-18-2004, 03:49 PM
Hey thanks for the replies guys :) You all make good points and I have some time to decide yet. My RC10 is one heck of a pain to start some times and one question is how does the Savage being a larger engine start compared to the T-maxx?? What kind of run times are you Sav 25 guys getting vs the T-maxx?? Thanks again guys :D
savagepicco26
04-18-2004, 08:20 PM
i got about 15-20 min per tank with the S-25. if you want a monster truck to bash with, get the savage. the Revo is just a redesigned T-maxx with a new name. both of them are nothing but 4WD stadium trucks with big wheels. a monster truck should have some weight to it!!! in all seriousness though, they are all good trucks. the savage seems to be more durable, but it's a pain to work on compared to some other vehicles. like to get to the motor mount bolts, you have to take the whole back end of the truck off. you have to do all that to change the spur gear, which i've chewed up about 6 gears so far, but i race my truck. racing is generally harder on the vehicle than bashing. now that i've gotten into racing though, i wish that i would have bought a 1/8th scale buggy than a MT. oh well, buggy is in sight. i'm thinking of selling my savage to get the buggy. anyone interested? tons and tons of upgrades, two motors, upgraded servos, pro line racing wheels, etc. etc. etc.
ditchbanger
04-18-2004, 09:25 PM
Dense metal, I have a savage 25 and my brother in laws have a sportmaxx and T-maxx. The savage is a easy starter and if it flips all I have to do is be easy on the gas and it will keep running until some of the air comes out. Both of those 2.5 Traxass engines are cold blooded. Sometimes I will have 5 minutes of running before those guys get theirs going. And if they flip forget it the Traxass's die about a second before you can flip it over. And they usually have to crank the snot out of them again to get them running. Those Traxass's are a great bang for the buck but the savage is faster than the sportmaxx, a touch slower than the T-maxx but I am broke down one tenth of the time compared to either of those guys and put the savage through more abuse.
2mcgrath
04-18-2004, 11:52 PM
i also get about probably 20 minutes run time they run forever on a tank because the tank is 160cc..i jump mine and do just about anything you could think of with it and have never broken anything.. i stripped one spur gear when i first got it new because the mesh wasnt correct..dont know why i didnt check before my first runs was just in a hurry to try her out..as far as cranking it fires right up no problem everytime..
Monsterbrad
04-19-2004, 09:51 PM
I have to say also that this truck is tough.
I have 2 gallons through mine and its still running strong but I have pounded the crap out of it and a few things have let go here they are.
The rear dif gear pin broke that holds the out put yoke on.
And I spun the front ring gear do to the bearing freezing up other than that nothing else.
I love this truck.
Also
FOR SALE
SCHUMACHER MENACE 21
$300.00 with 2 bodies
Only thing it needs is tires.
guver
04-20-2004, 10:53 PM
Hi, savage forum. can someone in here help me, I'm looking to get the proper backplate to make my thunderquake a rotostart. It has a tork 21 engine and the pullstart is very tiny. I need info on which back plate kit to get or some dimensions.
Would someone be willing to measur the hole centers for the mounting bolts?, thanks.
nitrorush89
04-23-2004, 10:22 PM
hey wut do u guys think about this revo do u think the savage 25 is a better truck from wut there is to see on the revo?
Monsterbrad
04-24-2004, 08:37 AM
I am going to say by looking at the complexity of the new traxxas truck that the savage is still tougher.
This truck will take some seriuos abuse let me tell ya.
How ever if you are planning on racing the savage is not realy that good.
GS's new sut is the best I have seen yet!!!!
but still buy a savage over the redo of the craxx from traxxas
savagepicco26
04-24-2004, 08:59 AM
How ever if you are planning on racing the savage is not realy that good.
GS's new sut is the best I have seen yet!!!!seriously, i have my savage set up to race and i can take dominators, and SUT's. now the monster GT is another story, but the truggies are no problem. i was smokin them on the track 2 weeks ago. :D
Monsterbrad
04-24-2004, 04:41 PM
HEy picco 26
Have you come up against the GS truck???
I want one but i am not sure it looks realy good for racing
sorry to be off subject guys
Savage vs GS SUT??????
I also heard the sut's engine is a ripper????
savagepicco26
04-24-2004, 05:40 PM
HEy picco 26
Have you come up against the GS truck???
I want one but i am not sure it looks realy good for racing
sorry to be off subject guys
Savage vs GS SUT??????
I also heard the sut's engine is a ripper????
yeah, i have. i don't think there's anything special about the SUT's motor. I've seen .21's that are more powerful. a NR P5 would smoke the SUT's .25. when you're on the track, there's so many variables, but all in all, there's nothing about the SUT that would make me buy it over a Monster GT if I was buying one to race with. my savage tears up the track big time. everyone talks about how the savage isn't much of a racer, but if you saw mine and the other 4 savages that were at the track this weekend, you'd think the savage was born to race. i still couldn't hang with the monster GT though.
i've been bitten by the 1/8th scale buggy bug though. after the race next month, i'll be selling my savage to get a Mugen MBX5. if anyone's interested in my savage, let me know. it's fully race ready, extra parts, 2 motors, race wheels, 4 bodies. over $1300 invested in it, and this thing absolutely rips!
Vmax911
04-24-2004, 09:41 PM
Any of you guys have experience with the Savage in the sand?
dense metal
04-24-2004, 10:50 PM
Ok....it was down to waiting for the Revo or orderin up a Sav 25 now....I had no problem waiting for the Revo, but I decided to go with the Sav..... :cool: I think it is a little better built(haven't seen a Revo though) but being a 1/8th scale with a .21 already I thought it might last a little longer...tell me what you guys think.... :rolleyes: any suggestions.....???
savagepicco26
04-24-2004, 10:54 PM
Ok....it was down to waiting for the Revo or orderin up a Sav 25 now....I had no problem waiting for the Revo, but I decided to go with the Sav..... :cool: I think it is a little better built(haven't seen a Revo though) but being a 1/8th scale with a .21 already I thought it might last a little longer...tell me what you guys think.... :rolleyes: any suggestions.....???
you made the right choice, but the new savages come with a .25, not a .21 :D
dense metal
04-25-2004, 12:21 AM
:o DOOOOHHHHH!!!! Oops your right...didn't realize I typed that...Thanks...Hey can anyone post a link for the Radio that comes with this beast...??? Do you guys like it or is it just an ok radio....?? Thanks again :)
savagepicco26
04-25-2004, 09:31 AM
it's okay for an AM radio, but i took mine out an put an Airtronics MX-3 in the truck. i like the MX-3 much better. you can fine tune all of your servos real easily.
Monsterbrad
04-25-2004, 05:32 PM
Hey guys anybody intersted in my savage??
I am going to sell it .
Its all stock has proline mashers on it now and comes with new stock savage 21 body black and silver one and a f-350 body that is also like new.
All it will need is the servos installed and a radio system.
$300.00 to the new owner shipped.
Truck also has a brand new ofna clutch ribbed hpi pipe and new rear diff.
Please spread the word this truck is clean.
I might list it on ebay!
Any questions email me at
ExExCR@aol.com
savagepicco26
04-25-2004, 06:18 PM
why are you selling?
Monsterbrad
04-25-2004, 07:14 PM
TRy a new truck but I am not sure which one I want yet.
I love the savage but there are other trucks.
I just want something diferent again.
thinking about the SUT or a MGT but thats off topic for this forum.
You know anybody that wants the savage?????
jmcn r
04-25-2004, 08:51 PM
hey what skid plates are you guys out there using on youre savages?
and do you think its a good choice for a mod to do right out of the box? :confused:
Needler56
04-26-2004, 12:00 PM
hey what skid plates are you guys out there using on youre savages?
and do you think its a good choice for a mod to do right out of the box? :confused:
i'm using an Integy center skid plate. if you're testing and tuning, (ie: calibrating the reverse module) i suggest to keep it off until you're done, because its a headache to take it on and off.
its a good idea to have because it protects the under carraige especially the dual disc brake (if you have one).
jmcn r
04-26-2004, 05:39 PM
thanks needler, if my LHS has the skid plate (when i checked they didnt, but they did have other integy stuff which im picking up) i will get it.
if not i will order from online.
nitrorush89
04-26-2004, 06:05 PM
does anyone have a pic there truck
cheerwhiner
04-27-2004, 09:35 PM
WELL fellas I'm the newest Savage 25 owner here! Just got it today. Decided against a TMaxx and got this. Happy I did. Haven't finished breaking it in yet. But god its got some power just spinning the wheels in idle!
I will be on this thread a lot asking a ton of questions. This is my first nitro vehicle!!!!!!
Well i feel like a new father with this thing (most expensive R/C purchase for me!!!!) and I won't race it (well not planning on it!) Just bashing, tuning, doing bodies, ect.
I also own a Ta04 onroad electric so that is my other car. I am selling a T3 on ebay so I do have truck experience, but no nitro.
I just decided to go all out!!!!!!!!!! (well I guess monster GT would be all out, OK alll out that I could afford!!)
jmcn r
04-27-2004, 10:39 PM
for all the savage owners. im curious, i have read in several places incidents where the savage seems to strip from the brake hub, i have also read in several places that the stock savage wheels tend to strip from the hex hubs and just eat themselves out.
do any of you find these problems generalized? or is it just a few isolated cases that i have read about. i should be getting my SS soon and if there really is a prblem with the wheels especially i will not bother using them, period. and replace the brake hub from the get go. just planning what else i need before it comes.
any savage owners comments are well appeciated.
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 08:19 AM
for all the savage owners. im curious, i have read in several places incidents where the savage seems to strip from the brake hub, i have also read in several places that the stock savage wheels tend to strip from the hex hubs and just eat themselves out.
do any of you find these problems generalized? or is it just a few isolated cases that i have read about. i should be getting my SS soon and if there really is a prblem with the wheels especially i will not bother using them, period. and replace the brake hub from the get go. just planning what else i need before it comes.
any savage owners comments are well appeciated.
SEE POST ON NEXT PAGE ALSO
i had 3 gallons of fuel through my stock wheels and stock brake hub and never had a problem with mine. people that strip things out generally don't have them adjusted properly. i am into racing now, so i replace the stock wheels with bowtie 40's and the stock hub with an alloy brake hub.
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 08:20 AM
hey what skid plates are you guys out there using on youre savages?
and do you think its a good choice for a mod to do right out of the box? :confused:i run the stock skid plate and no center plate. i've got about 5 gallons on the truck and haven't had a single problem. adding stuff just adds weight and that's something i don't need on my truck.
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 08:22 AM
does anyone have a pic there truckthe chrome rims have been replaced with white dish rims for racing now though....
http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~jreaton/Truckpics/Race%20Body%201%20Front.JPG
http://www.coe.uncc.edu/~jreaton/Truckpics/Race%20Body%201%20Rear.JPG
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 08:42 AM
ATTENTION!!!!
for those of you who are just getting your savages and are wondering what upgrades are recommended, visit this website:
Savage Weak Links (http://www.savage-central.com/article29.html)
i personally have done all of these (except i used an Ofna clutch and the dual tank mod isn't really needed for savage 25's, it was a problem with the 21's) and would highly recommend them to every savage owner. here's some direct links, and comments on performance gain (1-little, 10 a lot), time involved (1-little, 10-hours and hours) and difficulty of the mod (1-easy, 10-very hard):
1. Steering Servo Saver Mod (http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2361.html) P.G.-7, T.I.-2, D-1
2. Differential Mod (http://www.savageunleashed.com/article.php?story=20030428054217449) P.G.-8, T.I.-8, D-3
3. Throttle Linkage Mod (http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2179.html) P.G.-10, T.I.-1, D-1
4. Engine swap to Picco .26/Wasp .26 or others P.G.-10, T.I.-10, D-10
i would not recommend an engine swap for anyone until they feel extremely comfortable with every working aspect of the truck. it took me several hours over the course of two days to get the Ofna Picco .26 to fit properly. you'll need a new flywheel, clutchbell, bearings, shims, washers, etc. there's parts of the chassis plate that had to be ground out with a dremel to get things to fit. if you don't do everything right, you'll wind up tearing up your gears or your $200 new motor. if you feel comfortable though, the Picco .26 is just SICK!!!! when i wreck during races, i have to be careful about getting going again. if i get excited and just floor it, the truck will just flip over backwards and lay there on it's top. it does wheelies on demand, no matter what the surface is. i can smoke anything on the track with this motor, but in the wrong hands, it would be dangerous and no fun to drive. hope this info helps some of you.
jmcn r
04-28-2004, 02:36 PM
thanks a million savagepicco26!!!!!!!!! that is exactly what i was looking for and im sure there will be countless persons who find this helpful!
i usually swear by skid plates for off road usage, but the savages i have seen seem to have a remarkable resiliance without them. the throttle linkage mod ove been doing some reading about and probably is somethi9ng i will do right away, and maybe the servo saver mod. the differentail mod if i actually do it would come later however (although i will probably end up doing everything anyway knowing my true car guy mentality :p )
the only thing i have to worry about is figuring out whats wrong with the Futaba 3PJ i picked up off a friend who didnt use it. i think either the crystals have gone bad or the wiring after not being used for many years.
thanks savagepicco26! will keep you posted on what i get done and how fast. :cool: my account has been confirmed and i am ordering my stuff as i type this! :eek:
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 02:53 PM
the throttle linkage mod ove been doing some reading about and probably is somethi9ng i will do right awaythe stock setup doesn't even allow full throttle after doing the throttle return spring mod:
http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=63195
also a MUST!
the differentail mod if i actually do it would come later however (although i will probably end up doing everything anyway knowing my true car guy mentality :p )i did the diff mods at 1.5 gallons on the truck. when i opened them up, i was horrified to see them totally chewed up!!!! :eek: problem is that the 4 screws that hold them together like to back out. so i replaced them with M3X20 machine thread screws and they've held together perfectly. they don't leak either which is one thing a lot of people complain about after the mod. if you don't do the gear mod, i'd at least take them out and change the screws. you'll be sorry if you don't and your screws back out!
jmcn r
04-28-2004, 03:13 PM
thanks again, i just copied and pasted that last paragraph! :) not going to make and mistakes. test and tune...but first research. :cool: ;)
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 04:10 PM
fixing the diff problem should be pretty high priority. the screws i got were $1.60 for 4 of them. the thing that sucks is that it takes about 2-3 hours and 20-30 screws to get to the diffs, so if you're in there, you might as well go ahead and do the gear mod and throw in some diff silicone oil.
jmcn r
04-28-2004, 04:44 PM
ok. will do. mind sending the exact info on what parts you used in that upgrade? i will pick them up too. i am just buying the truck and putting it down for summer, i will not be here. so when i get back for school i will do the work.
i will buy the tools then too, as of now i have nothing up here (america) for RC. so ill be buying alot of stuff all at one time, wanna know exactly what i need for this mod then.
after that, wrenching is no problem for me :cool:
savagepicco26
04-28-2004, 04:53 PM
i used the screws i mentioned in the above post, other than that, i followed the instructions on the #2 website in the top post. it's pretty easy and straightforward, just time consuming.
jmcn r
04-29-2004, 01:03 PM
cool, thanks man. getting together my inal list of stuff to order before i go home for summer.
savage flyer
04-29-2004, 09:42 PM
Ok....it was down to waiting for the Revo or orderin up a Sav 25 now....I had no problem waiting for the Revo, but I decided to go with the Sav..... :cool: I think it is a little better built(haven't seen a Revo though) but being a 1/8th scale with a .21 already I thought it might last a little longer...tell me what you guys think.... :rolleyes: any suggestions.....???
I also did the same as you for now and went with the savage so I'd have something to run. Once the revo comes out I'll wait to see what the feedback is and maybe add that to the collection! From what I read you certainly can't go wrong with a Savage! I have to break mine in this week.
Monsterbrad
04-30-2004, 10:33 PM
Yes i would say the the savage is a great truck but the only thing I can see with it is the difs are a weak spot.
Also the stock steering which was not in mine past break in and the throttle linkage but I am still running that and it works ok.
The suspension rocks though.......Love it 4 in. of travel on each wheel its cool
I would like to change them but I just bought the gs storm truck so the savage is going to be on the back burner for a little while.
nitrorush89
04-30-2004, 10:48 PM
hey do u guys know a good pipe 4 the savage
Monsterbrad
05-02-2004, 12:29 AM
I put the HPI ribbed pipe on mine and it works realy well.
Just a little LOUD and the high speed needle had to be backed out alot from the plastic stock pipe that it had.
dirtbike
05-02-2004, 10:50 AM
I think it produces more torq
savagepicco26
05-02-2004, 11:21 AM
i use the polished alluminum pipe from HPI for the stock motor and the Picco .26 works great for both of them.
http://store.savagess.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=300
nitrorush89
05-02-2004, 10:03 PM
wut do u mean by backed out?
dense metal
05-03-2004, 08:44 AM
Hey Sav 25 users....I have kind of a weird question....Just got my Sav 25 and proceed to break-in engine with running for about 5 min above idle and then letting it cool..... now in doing so when the tank got to about 1/3 empty it seemed to rev up and be lean....so after a couple of tanks like that I start to run the truck in the 20' circle on the driveway and all seemed ok. Fuel was at about 1/2 this time and started acting up again...sounding flat and lean...what the?!!!?...so I richened up the low speed needle about 1/8 th and it helped a little but still felt lean....if I hit the throttle full to clear it out the idle sounded good for just a sec and then sounded lean....shut the truck down and after some inspection notice that the throttle slide seemed very sticky...??? hmmm. disconnected the ball link from the carb and it appears that the ball end was preloading carb and making it stick...now the carb appears to work smoothly..I have yet to try it out yet to see if this fixed it...anyone run into this weird thing before.... #$%@#@#@! RTR's...knew I should of bought the SS :rolleyes:
CRSMP5
05-03-2004, 09:18 PM
#A712 Aluminum Threaded Shock Set (104-162mm/8pcs) $135.00
My Invoice from savage-central member
Aluminum Threaded Shock Set $120
Extra Parts:
Aluminum Bottom Shock Cap (2pc) $4.60 X 2 = $9.20
Aluminum Shock Cap (2pc) $7.70 X 2 = $15.40
Aluminum Shock Nut Adjuster w/ O-Ring (2pc/4o-ring) $3.50 X 2 = $7.00
O-Ring Set (12pc) $2.20
Rubber Boots (4pc) $2.90 X 2 = $5.80
Piston Set 10mm (8pc/4sets) $5.15
Total: $164.75
Shipping: $21.00 (EMS)
These were shipped from Japan on Fri April 30th, I received them on Monday May 3rd.. 8O the USPS must like me..
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/1.jpg http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/2.jpg
The stock shock beside the aluminum one and the aluminum pieces on a plastic shock body.. Who wants rubber boots for their plastic shocks 8O
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/3.jpg
The teflon piston is white in color, it has the 2 hole ones installed, but comes with a set of 1 hole ones included along with the balls for the ends and caps.
A issue I have found with the rubber booties..
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/4.jpg http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/5.jpg
The rubber boot sucks its self to the shock, pops off the retainer nut and stuff like that :? how to fix......
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/6.jpg
This is one way, a small hole above the rubber stop will allow the boot to deflate/inflate. Another way is remove the black rubber piece off the shock shaft (like original shocks have), then use a piece of fuel tubing instead, the issue is the rubber boot gets stuck on the black rubber piece and will not allow air to flow past it. I have the fronts set up with fuel tubing, rears with small hole, I'll see which way is more durable...
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/7.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/8.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HPI_shocks/9.jpg
dense metal
05-04-2004, 08:01 AM
Well the throttle is much smoother now and the truck is very smooth to run....I guess I should of done more reading as most everyone says that the lsn should be flush with the carb body....I did that and it will idle all day like that and be smooth off idle...I am very suprised by this as usually you have to go in after break-in a little to clean up the bottom... very weird..but now she is starting to really come in...getting the front very light and sounding good!!!! :D Thanks to all who read.
Monsterbrad
05-04-2004, 11:40 PM
I too had that same problem with my savage also.
I had a heck of a time getting the 4 stroking thing to go away with the idle on mine also. THis engine is great when it runs good likes to be run a little on the hot side.
Here was another thing I found on mine.
The HSN o-ring was shot needed replaced the needle was moving wround when I was tunning the truck causing all kinds of wierd problems.
dense metal
05-05-2004, 12:04 PM
When you say 4 stroking thing...what do you mean :confused:
cheerwhiner
05-05-2004, 02:03 PM
guys i got my savage broken in finally and got some fast runs with it. I'm impressed. Its my first nitro, my first monster truck too!!! Dang climbs rocks in my ditch with no problem with the 4wd!! Its very loud!!
I'm getting a puprle ribbed HPI pipe for it next. It will be even LOUDER :cool:
and a set from rcsrewz too
after tomorrow I can drive it as much as I want
dense metal
05-06-2004, 07:11 PM
Well ladies....this truck is so much fun to run....with the wheelies...suspension goodness....two speed trans...I never had this much fun with the RC10GT :p Great truck!!!
jmcn r
05-06-2004, 09:15 PM
hey does anybody use shock covers, or things to the extent of those "shock socks" ? i wouldnt mind a set but cant find them anywhere that i would actually spend my money at. :confused: or is there possibley some form of a homemade engineering i could do to replicate a cover for the shocks?
dirtbike
05-06-2004, 09:26 PM
yep put the shocks in bollons
fuzzy2133
05-07-2004, 12:35 PM
some people have use some sort of elastic fabric and sew it into a tube shape.
jmcn r
05-07-2004, 03:36 PM
ok, thanks guys. i will try both. :)
rc10gtracer86
05-09-2004, 07:41 PM
my neighbor bought a .25 savage like a week ago and we broke it in and everything, that thing is a SLUGGGGG i mean its slower then my nephews losi jrx pro with a opal motor in it thats funny so he bought a better stering serov and the rev. module and a better pipe its called like a(showpipe) or soemthing he said its nice looking but this thing wont do a wheelie if its life depended on it and hes running 30% I mean come on my old 2.5 maxx walks all over this thing wheelies and everything and its STOCK...hes also running the 13 tooth clutch bell the 18t will just make it faster but no wheelies correct....
Thanks,
Ryan
doesgo
05-09-2004, 08:45 PM
LOL! Sounds like it's way out of tune. My bro-in-law just got a Savage 25 and it goes pretty good and gets wheelies sometimes.
Yes, th 18t bell is for speed, not acceleration.
Freedom
05-10-2004, 07:05 AM
my neighbor bought a .25 savage like a week ago and we broke it in and everything, that thing is a SLUGGGGG
You and your friend need to learn how to run a nitro truck lol
rc10gtracer86
05-10-2004, 02:06 PM
I dont need to learn I have been into nitro since like 5 yrs ago and I race at local track every sunday and I grew up in the garage beings my dad builds drag cars so I know how to tune very well acutally, but this thing wont come around for the life of us he even asked the local guys that have savages and they couldnt get it to run good eighter, so how about you take your smart ***** comments and leave we dont need stupid ppl. like you on here I was asking for some help and you have to be a jerk off about it....you are cool huh pretty proud of you self u can talk crap over a comp...
Rytan
doesgo
05-10-2004, 03:18 PM
Well, maybe you got a bum engine? Something's certainly messed up, since most S-25s are adequately powerful for the Savage. Not blazing fast, but plenty fast to be fun.
fuzzy2133
05-10-2004, 08:19 PM
just check for all the basic things and do not skip any thing that would be a stupid screw up. double check you are using the correct glow plug for the fuel being used.
rc10gtracer86
05-11-2004, 01:03 PM
guys we have been through the list several times im begining to think its a bum engine it starts right up and everything idels perfecty i mean u just tap the start button and it comes to life, I have double checked head shims gasket seals (re sealed everything) diff plugs,fuel everything i mean everything it just dont have the power I thought it would, thanks for the help from the true r/c board members not the ones that come and talk crap after 20 posts thinking they own the place everyone needs helps sometime along the line...this time its me.
Thanks,
Ryan
dirtbike
05-12-2004, 05:14 PM
This is the kind of crap people post when you know there a tmaxx fan just like rc10gtracer86 is. The savage has plenty of power and speed and will wheelie all the time.
savagepicco26
05-12-2004, 05:50 PM
30%, what plugs are you running? brand and model?
rc10gtracer86
05-13-2004, 01:42 PM
dirtbike *** are you talking about (tmaxx fans) I actually hate traxxas I only drive the maxx beings my gf got it for me as a gift when they first came out, so how about you just STFU if you dont have any help for me man internet trash talkers you gotta love em, im not sure what plug hes running but I know its for 30% beings he got a new plug for the 30% he said....guess well just toss my spare 8 port in it and hope it works out
Thanks,
Ryan
savagepicco26
05-13-2004, 04:33 PM
i've run both 20% and 30% in the S-25 with various combos of plugs. the S-25 actually runs better on 20% than 30% IME. an MC-8 plug works well for the 20%, but if you do run 30%, make sure you're running an MC-9 or odonnell 99.
fuzzy2133
05-13-2004, 07:44 PM
guys we have been through the list several times im begining to think its a bum engine it starts right up and everything idels perfecty i mean u just tap the start button and it comes to life, I have double checked head shims gasket seals (re sealed everything) diff plugs,fuel everything i mean everything it just dont have the power I thought it would, thanks for the help
if every thing includes running the HSN to a extreem lean setting to see if it comes alive and you reset the carb to factory specs then I will have to agree that is may be a bad engine.
savagepicco26
05-13-2004, 08:18 PM
yeah, doesn't sound like a typical S-25. they're not competition motors, but they should at least hold their own with a stock T-maxx. my buddy owns both trucks and stock, his savage is slightly faster and more powerful. sounds like a bad motor.
blown588
05-16-2004, 06:37 PM
anyone have the suppercharger for the savage jus woundering
savagepicco26
05-16-2004, 08:23 PM
anyone have the suppercharger for the savage jus woundering
which one?
savagepicco26
05-17-2004, 08:28 AM
has anyone compared the Nocer heads to the Nova heads as far as cooling efficiency?
Hi,
I was wondering, can u install a 5 cell reciever pack in a Savage and would it be to any use? How do u install it cause in the box there isn't really a lot of room...
Thx in advance.
savagepicco26
05-18-2004, 02:34 PM
Hi,
I was wondering, can u install a 5 cell reciever pack in a Savage and would it be to any use? How do u install it cause in the box there isn't really a lot of room...
Thx in advance.
yes you can. i have a 5-cell hump pack in mine. it fits perfectly in place of the stock AA holder. also, replace the stock power switch with one that has a charge connector on it. that way you can charge the battery without getting into the radio compartment. i couldn't imagine having the truck without this!
doesgo
05-18-2004, 03:19 PM
I totally agree, Savagepicco26. The 3x2-style hump pack fits great and is essential to Savage enjoyment, since getting into the radio box is not exactly a good time.
2mcgrath
05-23-2004, 12:21 AM
i got a question here..last night i took my savage apart for the first time for a check up of parts and cleaning.. this is after 2 gallons and im pleased to say not a thing wrong any where..but im trying to find out what this part is it doesnt show it in the manuel..i took my (stock pipe) loose from the coupler and once i got the pipe off i noticed there was like some black plastic sleeve inside the coupler.. so i took the coupler all the way off to try and get this out to see what it is and broke a peice of it trying to get it out but never got it out..and like i stated it shows this part nowhere in the manuel..
2mcgrath
05-23-2004, 12:32 AM
as for the savage that wasnt running good.. i ran into a plug problem not long ago where it would run sluggish and wouldnt hold a tune..this was a new fox glow plug..so i switched the plug out with a non fox plug and it cured it i also had this problem on a os engine with a fox plug needless to say i wont be buying anymore fox plugs..my savage 25 is plenty powerfull wheelies are no problem..i have the stock 15 tooth clutch bell and a 52 tooth spur from a savage 21..i will take on a 2.5 tmaxx anyday ive allready put some maxxs to shame with it..in virtually all categories..was the savage he bought brand new?
2mcgrath
05-27-2004, 04:44 PM
what glow plugs youguys running in your trucks
nitrorush89
05-28-2004, 01:11 PM
os # 8
2mcgrath
06-02-2004, 01:58 AM
do those work pretty good in your savage?
Grifter
06-02-2004, 07:10 AM
do those work pretty good in your savage?
Those should work fine.
nitrorush89
06-03-2004, 05:47 PM
ya there good
lou diamonds
06-05-2004, 09:51 PM
i need some suggestions on some drop in power for my savage. the obvious choice is hotbodies .46 conversion, but remember, i want drop in power. help me out..
savagepicco26
06-05-2004, 11:19 PM
i need some suggestions on some drop in power for my savage. the obvious choice is hotbodies .46 conversion, but remember, i want drop in power. help me out..
the .46 truckzilla conversion just turns the truck into a terd! for drop in power, get a Picco .26 I had the Ofna Picco .26 and was crazy fast compared to the stock .25 your top speed won't change much if at all, but your acceleration and low end torque go through the roof! if you're on pavement or in the grass, you'll have to learn good throttle control, otherwise, you'll spend a lot of time flipping the truck back over! :D
DT-10 basher
06-06-2004, 04:05 PM
hi all, im thinkin of gettin a savage, can anyone give me any opinions on which one to get for general backyard bashing.
doesgo
06-06-2004, 11:26 PM
You mean the SS or the 25? Do you have a radio/receiver on hand already? Do you like to build kits or would you rather go RTR? There are slight differences between the two trucks, but one doesn't really have an advantage over the other as far as standard equipment, so it seems to come down to the radio and that one is a kit.
lou diamonds
06-07-2004, 01:35 AM
the .46 truckzilla conversion just turns the truck into a terd! for drop in power, get a Picco .26 I had the Ofna Picco .26 and was crazy fast compared to the stock .25 your top speed won't change much if at all, but your acceleration and low end torque go through the roof! if you're on pavement or in the grass, you'll have to learn good throttle control, otherwise, you'll spend a lot of time flipping the truck back over! :D
thanx for the advice. question? why would the .46 have that affect. i heard the truck has crazy power. id love to get my hands on a .70 from thunder tiger. those trucks are sick.
savagepicco26
06-07-2004, 08:00 AM
the picco .26 actually runs better and has more power than the .46 from what i saw. one site i found said the .46 has a claimed horsepower of 4.8 from what i saw, it doesn't perform anywhere near that. i had a hard time not breaking stuff with the picco.26. heavy duty drive cups, and dogbones along with the diff mod are a MUST.
fuzzy2133
06-07-2004, 07:16 PM
the other difference between the .26 and .46 is the rpm range. the 26 will spin to 28,000rpm where the 46 can only go 18,000. with the 46 you will need a smaller spur and larger clutch bell to make up for the rpm difference. wear and tear on the truck is going to be worse with almost double the power.
savagepicco26
06-07-2004, 07:27 PM
picco .26 spins to 38000 RPM's. you can check it at www.teampicco.com whether you go with the .26 or the .46, as fuzzy said, wear and tear on the truck will be greater. expect to be replacing parts more often. with the .26, i ripped out at least 10 nylon spur gears before going to the steal one from Robinson Racing. once i did that, no more spur gear problems.
lou diamonds
06-08-2004, 04:30 AM
i guess ill go with the .26. i already run a 18t clutch bell and 49t aluminium spur, so i sould be good :D
savagepicco26
06-08-2004, 08:04 AM
i guess ill go with the .26. i already run a 18t clutch bell and 49t aluminium spur, so i sould be good :D
YIKES! i'm surprized you haven't torn stuff up with that 18T on there if you're running it off road. i ran a 16T/48T with the Picco .26 and it was awesome on the track. i got 5th in the A Main the last time i raced it, but the truck had the potential to do better, the driver just sucked! :rolleyes: the picco is a very tight fit and you might have to grind out the motor mount plate a little like i did. i doubt you'll fit the 18T/49T combo in there. if you haven't upgraded your diffs yet, you will be soon after the picco rips the stock ones to shreds!
lou diamonds
06-10-2004, 04:20 AM
u know, i love my savage, but the thing is so heavy and cumbersome :mad: im doing everything i can, within reason, to get it to run with other trucks(maxxes). but by the time im done the truch will have quadrupled in value :eek:
savagepicco26
06-10-2004, 08:07 AM
u know, i love my savage, but the thing is so heavy and cumbersome :mad: im doing everything i can, within reason, to get it to run with other trucks(maxxes). but by the time im done the truch will have quadrupled in value :eek:
what wheels, tires and shocks are you running? i didn't have a hard time putting Maxx's to shame with mine.
jmcn r
06-10-2004, 09:21 PM
hey i have a question for anyone here who may know what i am talking about. i have Integy shock towers for my SS, i just want to make sure i am doing the correct thing. they include 4 small auminum spacers. are they supposed to go on either side of the tower where the shock actually mounts?
also, i have to install my new diffs, how do i, or do i have to seperate the diff housing to do so?
and finally, i have the ofna fuel filter/primer pump to install with my dual tank set up, where exactly do i place it?
oh and i am forgetting, whats the most convenient way to get fuel into the second tank...it seem like kind of a pain.
BTW...savagepicco26, i went away for awhile, but as soon as i got back i ordered a whole bunch of things for the savage. i must say your advice has helped me alot, :) thank you very much. i am just waiting for the bevel shafts to arrive for the diffs and ofna MP linkage/servo stuff as they were back ordered. but everything else was installed and ready from this weekend.
savagepicco26
06-11-2004, 08:27 AM
also, i have to install my new diffs, how do i, or do i have to seperate the diff housing to do so?
BTW...savagepicco26, i went away for awhile, but as soon as i got back i ordered a whole bunch of things for the savage. i must say your advice has helped me alot, :) thank you very much. i am just waiting for the bevel shafts to arrive for the diffs and ofna MP linkage/servo stuff as they were back ordered. but everything else was installed and ready from this weekend.glad I could be of some help. for the diffs, there's 4 screws that holds the 43T bevel gear on. just take those out and pull the gear off. make sure the inside of the cup is not worn. if it it, replace it first. they're cheap. i think $6 for a pair of cups, plus they come with new gaskets. let me know if you have any more questions.
jmcn r
06-12-2004, 12:44 AM
thanks savagepicco. what i am actually refering to is the differential housing. i havent really had the time to go search around the net to find out what im doing wrong so i knows its lazy to ask before i do, but iwill be leaving the country again real soon so times really hampering me.
the actual housing between the "bulkhead", i cant get that thing seperated into the two pieces thats its supposed to. i dont want to exert any more force till i know if there is a specific method. all the screws are removed and everything. i dont know about the other manuals, but the step in refering to is on pg. 12 of the SS manual, the middle image. i just cant get that thing seperated. i also need a nice little mount for my header tank and mounting the fuel filter along with that and im set.
newnitrofan
06-12-2004, 01:28 AM
jmcn you might try taking a small flat blade screwdriver and inserting it in the crack between the diff housing to get it open. I know this is how I usually get mine open. Just insert and twist gently on the housing and it should come apart. If that does not do it than is it a possibility that the screws that you pulled out of the diff housing one of them may have broken off and be stuck in there?? Are all the screws you pulled out the same length??
savagepicco26
06-12-2004, 07:14 AM
the actual housing between the "bulkhead", i cant get that thing seperated into the two pieces thats its supposed to. i dont want to exert any more force till i know if there is a specific method. all the screws are removed and everything. i dont know about the other manuals, but the step in refering to is on pg. 12 of the SS manual, the middle image. i just cant get that thing seperated. i also need a nice little mount for my header tank and mounting the fuel filter along with that and im set.
i just looked up the SS manual on HPI's site. now if you're talking about the 2 sections in the middle step on the page, then no, there's no special technique. they do fit together extremely tight and you want them to since they're taking all the abuse and torque of the diffs. when i took mine apart, i could barely see the seams of the 2 pieces because they were so tight. just make sure you have all the screws out, and just use your hands. try to avoid, using something to pry it apart, but if you can't get it, then do like newnitrofan. also, what he said about the screws is a good point too, but i doubt that one is broken in there since all the parts are plastic. looking at step 4 on page 12, i would grasp the part right at the corners where it shows part number 85045, and the corresponding corners on the back half. with mine, i'd just wiggle it back and forth with some pretty good pressure and it would come apart. quite often, it took enough pressure that it caused some pain in the finger tips from the corners of the parts. so it's not something that will just fall apart on you.
lou diamonds
06-14-2004, 06:18 AM
what wheels, tires and shocks are you running? i didn't have a hard time putting Maxx's to shame with mine.
im runnin proline bow ties and a set of integy piggy backs :cool:
henry_huckem
06-16-2004, 12:54 PM
^cant go wrong there...
savagepicco26
06-16-2004, 02:02 PM
im runnin proline bow ties and a set of integy piggy backs :cool:
what kind of bow ties? standard or 40's? i looked up the integy shocks on their website and notice that it said it had "slightly harder springs" if that means harder than stock, then that's not good for racing. i took my stock springs off and put on a set of the HPI light blue. they are softer than stock and i ran 35 wt oil in the shocks. i don't mean to sound mean, but a lot of it is driver. i didn't realize how much so until a RC Pro-Series driver took my radio and turned lap times faster than that of the winner of the A Main at the last race, and the winner was driving a modded K2 truggy. at another race, a 1/10 scale driver pulled a bone-stock Monster GT out of the box and beat everyone with it, including the truggies. so my lesson was that you can do anything you want to with the truck, but in the end, it almost always comes down to the driver. i'd have to sit down and figure it out exactly, but you could take a RTR savage 25 and make it totally race worthy for less than $1000 and that includes a Picco .26 motor swap. significantly less than your stated value of quadrupled value. that would mean well over $1600. you can definitely make it hang with maxxes for far less than that.
jmcn r
06-16-2004, 03:03 PM
jmcn you might try taking a small flat blade screwdriver and inserting it in the crack between the diff housing to get it open. I know this is how I usually get mine open. Just insert and twist gently on the housing and it should come apart. If that does not do it than is it a possibility that the screws that you pulled out of the diff housing one of them may have broken off and be stuck in there?? Are all the screws you pulled out the same length??
SAVAGEPICCO26
i just looked up the SS manual on HPI's site. now if you're talking about the 2 sections in the middle step on the page, then no, there's no special technique. they do fit together extremely tight and you want them to since they're taking all the abuse and torque of the diffs. when i took mine apart, i could barely see the seams of the 2 pieces because they were so tight. just make sure you have all the screws out, and just use your hands. try to avoid, using something to pry it apart, but if you can't get it, then do like newnitrofan. also, what he said about the screws is a good point too, but i doubt that one is broken in there since all the parts are plastic. looking at step 4 on page 12, i would grasp the part right at the corners where it shows part number 85045, and the corresponding corners on the back half. with mine, i'd just wiggle it back and forth with some pretty good pressure and it would come apart. quite often, it took enough pressure that it caused some pain in the finger tips from the corners of the parts. so it's not something that will just fall apart on you
Thank you very much, both of you. it turned out to be just a case of prying them apart with a 2mm flathead screw driver. it's just that i try to be as cautious as possible with these things and try not to exert any force where i dont have to. especially since i havent touched an RC in so long. but it turned out to be a simple thing. :D
the differential stuff that was backordered is arriving in 3 packages starting today, one of them should be less than an hour away from the tracking info. so ill be ready, i just have a ton of schoolwork over the next week and a hald so i gotta be careful. :mad: oh well,
thanks again :)
but one more q, how tight should the brake saliper be to the disc? do i just leave enough of a gap to allow clamping space? or give plenty of slack?
jmcn r
06-16-2004, 03:08 PM
what kind of bow ties? standard or 40's? i looked up the integy shocks on their website and notice that it said it had "slightly harder springs" if that means harder than stock, then that's not good for racing. i took my stock springs off and put on a set of the HPI light blue. they are softer than stock and i ran 35 wt oil in the shocks. i don't mean to sound mean, but a lot of it is driver. i didn't realize how much so until a RC Pro-Series driver took my radio and turned lap times faster than that of the winner of the A Main at the last race, and the winner was driving a modded K2 truggy. at another race, a 1/10 scale driver pulled a bone-stock Monster GT out of the box and beat everyone with it, including the truggies. so my lesson was that you can do anything you want to with the truck, but in the end, it almost always comes down to the driver. i'd have to sit down and figure it out exactly, but you could take a RTR savage 25 and make it totally race worthy for less than $1000 and that includes a Picco .26 motor swap. significantly less than your stated value of quadrupled value. that would mean well over $1600. you can definitely make it hang with maxxes for far less than that.
once the summer is over and i will be back in america for an extended period for school, i will be buying a set of standard bow tie standards for the track as well. already have two extra sets of wills to fit tires to...so i will be good to go. the bow ties seem to just perform flawlessly in most track conditions these days.
since i only did some basic break in to my SS, i never got a good chance to open it up, but if all i have felt so far from it, i can say as well you shouldnt have any problem making a competitive truck for the track with $1,000.
savagepicco26
06-16-2004, 03:38 PM
the bow ties are great tires. i have ran both standards and 40 series. the 40's are by far the best handling of the 2, but the rims can't take the abuse of the track. i broke the hub out of 4 rims, and they all were on the back. the front ones were fine. so what i found to be the best performance while being durable was the 40's in front and standards in back. it looks goofy, but it works. of course the best thing to solve the weak wheel situation would be to put a set of 17mm hex's on the truck and run some Ofna 17mm hub wheels. they hold up so much better than the 14mm hex's that are stock. the 14mm hexes were designed for the T-maxx. HPI just used them to try to have maximum parts available. parts are definitely there, but they're not built to withstand the abuse of big-block motors and the weight of the truck.
lou diamonds
06-18-2004, 02:34 AM
savagepicco.26, your point is well noted as fars as the skill of the driver. but you must admit that speed, along with handles, go a long way. :rolleyes:
savagepicco26
06-18-2004, 08:16 AM
savagepicco.26, your point is well noted as fars as the skill of the driver. but you must admit that speed, along with handles, go a long way. :rolleyes:
yes it does, and that's what helped me get 5th in the A Main, cause Lord knows i can't drive! :D with the right tires, proper suspension setup, and a strong steering servo, the savage can handle just as well, if not better than a T-Maxx. where some t-maxxes were wanting to roll in turns, my was hugging the corners and sliding like the 1/8th scale buggies. i could turn lap times only a few seconds slower than 1/8th scale buggies. with the Picco .26 and a 16T/48T gearing, i was litterally running over T-maxxes on the straightaways. my truck was faster than anything on the track, but like i said, i can't drive that well, so i didn't win. and as said before, the proper equipment can be added/changed on the savage for well under $1000.
jmcn r
06-18-2004, 02:51 PM
umm. question again. how tight should i tighten the brake caliper to the rotor? :confused: just how much play should i leave?
savagepicco26
06-18-2004, 03:29 PM
very little play. you tighten the caliper by adjusting the black plastic screw cap on the end of the shaft that goes through the servo saver. if you haven't done the ofna linkage mod, it's well worth the 10 minutes it takes. huge performance difference for me on the throttle. if you still run stock, try making the fuel hose longer on the linkage. the ofna setup eliminates the fuel hose which is nice.
jmcn r
06-19-2004, 04:57 PM
no its not that part i speak of.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/savage_ss/S25ss_P23.jpg
step 26, im not sure how far to tighten down the Z282 screws, if they go in all the way the disc doesnt move. i was worried about not screwing it in all the way, wouldnt that mean the screws could back out, or there just wouldnt be enough brake tension?
how far should they go in and how much space should be left between the two calipers.
fuzzy2133
06-19-2004, 05:01 PM
you want a small amout of space between the screw head and caliper, about the width of a hiar. the z282 scres will not back out, screws back out when they go into metal items like aluminum, steel, or titanium.
savagepicco26
06-19-2004, 05:02 PM
they should go in all the way till they bottom out and the calipers should still be loose. make sure that as you're tightening them that the linkage for the brake isn't putting pressure on the caliper from the little plug 86092b from step 25. my screws went in all the way, as long as nothing was binding them. becareful not to tighten them too hard and strip them out. you'll have to buy a new gear box case if you do. :mad:
savagepicco26
06-19-2004, 05:05 PM
when i say bottom out, i'm talking about where the threads stop and the wide, smooth shaft starts. the bottom of the smooth part should be flush against the gear box. it's very easy to get the front caliper plate caught under the shaft. again, check that the little plug isn't putting pressure on the caliper plate.
Dan H
06-20-2004, 04:00 AM
Hey guys, need some info. Been out of RC's for some time but was wondering whats the best engine for $130 that I can get for my Savage? And hopefully better than stock. ;)
Hey guys, need some info. Been out of RC's for some time but was wondering whats the best engine for $130 that I can get for my Savage? And hopefully better than stock. ;)
save another $20 and get yourself one of the picco .26's.. IMO, there the best "affordable" engine ya can get..
ppl have said that they have more power than the rb big block!
i have used quite a few different engines in my savages and fount the wasp piccos to be a VERY good performer!
doesgo
06-20-2004, 09:49 PM
The Fantom .27 is amazing, pulling wheelies with a 17/49 gearing combo. I think that's more expensive, though. The Wasp/Picco/Werks .26 is very strong as well, but seems pretty finicky.
For easy, reliable power at a low price, I'd recommend the XTM 24.7. Reliable, torquey, and $130.
Hi all !
I own a Savage 25 RTR and I'd like to upgrade the tuned pipe and handling.
What you recommend for the tuned pipe and to improve handling, ? For the pipe I tought about the SS Tuned pipe and for handling I tought about stiffer spring or new shocks and Proline 40 series tires and wheels.
Any suggestions ????
Thanks
doesgo
06-21-2004, 11:14 PM
The wheels, tires, and good foams will help more in the handling department than an